MICA (P) 143/07/2009

Issue 04 :: Apr 2010

Inside This Issue

Singapore Bouldering League •
what’s in store for 2010?

Yangshuo •
SMU’s winning travel article

Rock On 2009 •
Best routes ever

Gravical •
4th time’s the charm

Boulderactive •
The good, the bad & the ugly

Bouldermania •
NTU gets manical

Cross Training •
Keep your antagonistic muscles sane

Singapore’s first 8c
hear what Jay has to say!
Editorial
A new year, a new beginning

Since SCA started in 2009, we have –

• Coordinated 2009’s National Bouldering League successfully
• Sent 1 climber to compete at the World Championships, and 3 to the
Asian Championships
• Organised a networking session for Junior College climbing clubs
• Provided online media in the form of photography and videos at
www.sgclimb.com
• Published 4 issues of DYNO (this one included)

With each step, our vision and goals got clearer - SCA wants to elevate climbing
(specifically in the area of bouldering), to the same level as basketball, table-
tennis and soccer. It is with this vision in mind, that we crafted this year’s
bouldering league, hereby renamed Singapore Bouldering League (SBL) and gotten
it endorsed by the Singapore Sports Council (SSC).

Apart from coordinating the league, SCA is also supporting the participating
competitions with –
• Volumes and handholds
• Impact drivers
• Technical and logistic support
• Engaging credible and reliable Chief Route-setters/ Chief Judges
• Online publicity and registration portal
• Professional advice on competition management
• Professional photography services

SCA will like to welcome all competition organisers to enquire about our services
and support which are provided free-of-charge to organisers, apart from
professional fees for judging, route-setting and photography.

Once again, SCA will like to thank all our helpers and volunteers who have
contributed to our sport. Without them, DYNO, SgClimb.com and SBL 2010 would
not have been possible.

THANKS!

To Temasek Polytechnic Sports Climbing Team – For continuously providing selfless

volunteers who make our local climbing events possible.

To SSC – For supporting SCA with their endorsement and kind sponsorship.

To SMU, NUS and NTU - For believing in and participating in the SBL.

To Climb Asia – For their continuous support to climbing in Singapore.

To all the others who worked tirelessly behind the scenes;

who work so others can climb; who give so others can
enjoy; who sacrifice, so others may achieve.
You know who you are.

Together, We can be great, Together!

Chief Editor
Ben Toh
ben.toh@sgclimb.com

Send us your Best Picture from this year’s GRAVICAL and

BOULDERACTIVE and stand to walk away with a 1 month
Season Pass to Climb Asia!

Email pictures (resize to <1MB) with

your name and contact number to:
ben.toh@sgclimb.com
 SMU in Yangshuo

SMU embarks on Project 8a

By Yeo Zhen Xiong

On 4th December 2009, 2 climbers from
the Singapore Management University
(SMU) Climb team, embarked on a trip
to Yangshuo, China for a Community
Service Project. Working closely with
Yangshuo Access Initiative (YAI), and with
a sponsorship of 6 anchors by Exponent
Challenge Technology Asia, these climbers
carried out the Crag Inventory and
Assessment program.
Over 14 days, a total of 11 different crags
were visited, ranging from the famous Lei Pi
Shan to the notoriously overhung Moonhill,
the latter requiring an approximate hike
of 735 steps to the crag! In all, 32 anchors
were improved, 90+ routes correctly
inventoried and assessed. “Yangshuo
thanks you. You guys have done more for
Yangshuo than the Yangshuo Climbing
Association has ever done,” said Andrew
Hedesh, Crag Safety and Maintenance
Director of YAI.
Assessing and improving routes was a
particularly enriching experience. Climbers
should never take the safety on natural
walls for granted. Many often fail to see
the effort put in behind the setting and
maintenance of these routes, ensuring that
every climber has a fun and safe climb.
What was most appalling was the equipment
recovered from some of the walls. From
an untested chain, weathered ropes and
rusty mallions to broken carabiners, the
equipment that some climbers trusted
their lives on were obvious safety hazards.
It was without a doubt that work had to
be done.
Community work aside, climbing in
Yangshuo was an extremely rewarding
experience. Average temperatures of 8
– 12 degrees ensured that jackets stayed
on. Cloudy days made topless climbing a
near impossibility. Despite routes being
supposedly stiffer than those at home,
the view on the top was simply amazing.
One is greeted by the image of vast plains
against the backdrop of the numerous
Karst towers.
getting up at about 8am, having Guilin
Noodles along with soy milk for about
5 yuan (S$1) followed by stocking up on
bread and water for lunch and reaching
the crags by around 1030am.
After climbing to your heart’s content,
rest assured that Yangshuo town has
plenty of entertainment options to offer.
Apart from sampling their acclaimed beer
fish, my favourite eatery was a claypot
rice shop near the bus station. Also, West
Street (Xi Jie) provides ample shopping
options ranging from foodstuff, souvenirs
to “branded” apparel. Being a tourist
hotspot, West Street has a number of bars
and clubs that would satisfy any party
animal.
In all, Yangshuo has a mix of the old and
the new, allowing climbers to enjoy the
challenges of the crags and also boasts
numerous activites for non-climbing days.
Access information to Yangshuo can be
found at www.sgclimb.com/dyno.

Routes in Yangshuo cater to a range of

grades. Currently, White Mountain remains
closed due to access issues. However, YAI
is diligently resolving these issues with the
The above article by Yeo Zhen Xiong
villages. Nonetheless, there are a number
of crags that provide a multitude of from SMU has won him a pair of
challenges and weeks of entertainment if La Sportive Speedster sponsored by
one were to tackle just a crag a day. Being Climb Asia. SCA will be contacting
a relatively new climbing spot, the rocks in Zhen Xiong about collection of his
Yangshuo are generally sharper than those prize shortly.
in more established areas such as Krabi.
While this translates to better grips, do be
prepared to lose a fair bit of skin.

Most crags are within a 10km radius of the

town. Getting to crags could be done via
public bus, a hired van, or if one is in the
mood for some warm up, a rented bicycle.
A daily climbing itinerary would include
Rock On 2009
With a total of 17 categories and 214
participants, Rock On is back with a
vengeance!
Held at SAFRA Adventure Sports
Centre at Yishun SAFRA, Rock On
2009 is organised by SAFRA and
the SMF. Throughout the event,
spectators were kept on the edge
of their seats, as the competitors
fought it out on the high wall, each
one gaining a higher hold than the
previous climber.
The Chief Route-Setter, Mr.Philip
Lim, is no stranger to SAFRA Rock
On, having been the champion for
many years during his competitive
years. For him, to be route-setting
for the next generation of climbers
is to have come full circle.
The best Rock On routes ever!
The competitors in SAFRA Rock On 2009
were treated to a dose of excellent
routes - there was no ‘sandbagging’ , no
dicey clips on the first 4m and best of all,
no bottlenecks. Climbers were able to
measure themselves against each other
without facing ‘stopper’ moves – in the
end, the climber with the best route-
reading, endurance and technique won.
While admittedly, the qualifiers for most
of the categories could have been made
harder to make filtering easier, Philip chose
to set routes that were ‘accessible’ to all.
Womens Open
Fighting back from a 2-year hiatus,
Ms.Suzanna Tan’s style was instantly
recognizable by all who have watched her
climb – slow and meticulous. So slow in
fact that she ran out of time, again! This
would be her 3rd or 4th time running out of
time when competing in Rock On! Suzanna
ended up tied in 2nd place with Ms. Chung
Sue Ann, also a veteran in Singapore’s
climbing scene.
SAFRA Rock On 2009 (7-15 Nov)
Chief Judge (Indonesia)
- Hendri C.Wijaya
Chief Route-Setter (Singapore)
– Philip Lim
The eventual winner, Ms. Tri Ardianti from
Indonesia, put up a good fight to emerge
champion and the only woman to complete
the finals route.
Mens Open
What a nail-biting finish! The Top 7 finalists
were all tied after the qualifying round.
But Philip pulled the proverbial rabbit out
of the hat, by producing a finals route that
had a perfect filter – all climbers fell at
different parts of the route!
While there is a need to show respect to
the guest-of-honour, there cannot and
must not be a situation where it impinges
on the fairness of the competition.
Case-in-point – The last climbers of the
evening, Mr. Andrico and Ms.Suzanna Tan
were kept waiting for almost half-an-hour
after their previous competitors competed.
This creates a disadvantage to both their
physiological and psychological state – as
their bodies would have warmed down,
Mr.Riki Kiswani became the first competitor and their competitive edge blunted.
to complete the route. It was left to Haroz
and Jay Koh to keep Singapore’s hope Hopefully, this issue can be highlighted to
alive. However, the flamboyant display by all event organisers and avoided in future.
young Haroz cost him dearly, as he slipped
off before the anchors. Jay put up an
amazing display of technique, endurance
and tenacity, and looked almost certain to
complete the route. Alas, he succumbed
to the pump while going for the last hold.
The only glitch
The same glitch that plagues all climbing
events, and perhaps, also the crux for
many climbers – The arrival of the Guest-
of-Honour.
On a high note
Rock On 2009
In a way, our loss is also our victory. The victories
by our Indonesian neighbours in the Open and
also in the Under 20 categories is a reminder to
Singapore’s climbers of who we are up against.
We need to train harder, if Singapore is to stand a
chance in the 2011 SEA Games.

Once again, a big THANK YOU goes out to all

officials, volunteers and participants of SAFRA
Rock On 2009. We hope to see you again in
2010.

NEW routes at SAFRA Adventure Sports Centre (SASC)

After Rock On 2009, a massive wave of new routes has been put up on the 15m walls
at SASC. From 5bs to 7c, climbers now have a big choice of routes to feast their
fingers on!

The route-setting was overseen by Greater Heights, and routes were set in mind for
beginners, intermediate climbers and student climbers. The easy routes are there so
new climbers can learn to lead-climb in a safe environment with little concern about
bad falls, run-outs or scary clipping positions.

Route information and promotional offers can be found at the Facebook group called
“The Yishun Climbing Community”. Other information about entry fees and opening
hours can also be found at http://www.safra.sg/page.aspx?pageid=108
http://www.safra.sg/page.aspx?pageid=108.

For enquiries about route-setting,

please contact Greater Heights at
enquiries@climbnatural.com.
SMU Gravical

Gravical 2010 – 4 to 7 March

Venue – SMU Campus Green
No. of participants - 300
Organised by Singapore Management University (SMU) Climb Team
Co-organised by SMU Student Life
Supported by Singapore Climbers Association (SCA)
Chief Route-setter – Lim June Pein (Climb Asia)
Assistant Chief Route-setter – Garick Bay (Temasek Poly Climbing Coach)
Ben Toh (SCA)
Chief Judge - Ben Toh (SCA)
Assistant Chief Judge – Melissa Ho (SMU)

There are many firsts for Gravical 2010 –

- First “public” bouldering event by SMU Climb Team
- First time participating in the Singapore Bouldering League
- First competitive bouldering event using the “Flash” format
For an event only in its 4th edition, and with a 3rd dimension to the passé 2 dimension
a club history of only 5 years, Gravical’s competition walls. From compression
growth is nothing short of phenomenal. moves, dicey sit-ins to contact strength,
Yes, SMU Climb Team may lack in the volumes brought forth fresh ideas for
experience, manpower and logistics, but routes to tickle climbers’ fancy.
there is definitely no lack of spirit! The volumes bring our routes closer
to the current international standard.
Assisted by SCA and volunteers from mainly It also made routes more realistic to
Temasek and Singapore Polytechnic, natural rocks boulder problem.
Gravical’s debut into the competitive
bouldering scene, though lacking in bells Routes, routes, routes
and whistles, is no less a job well done. If you are into bouldering competitions
to ogle at girls, try beach volleyball
Volumes instead. But if you are here to challenge
Imported by Greater Heights specially for yourself and earn a new found hatred
SCA’s bouldering league, the volumes added for route-setters, welcome.

In their debut as Chief Route-setters, both June Pein (better known

as Jups) and Garick spent over 60 hours together, fingering, palming,
pinching, slapping and screwing; just to ensure that competitors do not go
back satiated, but come back wanting more! No, not all routes are good,
and route-setters will always be the first to admit that. But yes, we are
all learning, and we can only get better!

In a nutshell
Despite their mid-terms, endless project meetings and ongoing lessons,
SMU Climb Team delivered. And remember, this is only the 3rd edition.
From being an internal event in 2008, to becoming invitational in 2009 and
to become open to public this year, be sure that SMU Climb Team will not
be sitting on their laurels. Perhaps Gravical will go international in 2011?
Of course this time, they will remember the medals.
 SMU Gravical

SCA Volumes need a new home!

The volumes specially imported by SCA for the SBL will be put down until
SBL 2011. That is unless it finds an owner who can care for it, brush it,
pinch, slap and kick it! As such, SCA will be selling the used volumes at
a heavily discounted rate! Prices range from $150* for the Phreaking
Phreaking Pyramid Pyramid, to $250* for the Chocolate Cube.

The money received will help SCA recoup part of the cost of the volumes,
and also so we can bring in bigger and more volumes for 2011.

Interested climbers, gyms or clubs can contact Ben Toh at

ben.toh@sgclimb.com for more information. Enquiries about purchase
of new volumes is also possible.

Deadly Diamond *Prices not inclusive of delivery.

our winner
o from NTU is
Mr Bernard Kh m/dyno!
to sgclimb.co
for subscribing

acted
He will be cont
redeem-
shortly about
a
ing his prize of
k Bag!
Metolius Chal
Triangulator Chocolate Cube
NUS Boulderactive

Venue – Orchard Central

No. of Participants - 500
Organised by - NUS Climbing Club
Supported by -
Singapore Climbers Association (SCA)

Chief Route-setter(s) –
Jay Koh (Open Category)
Ben Toh (U16, Novice & Intermediate Cat)
Chief Judge - June Pein (Climb Asia)

Indoors! Air-con! Shelter!

Almost everything that a
bouldering event can hope
for, if only it includes an
understanding management…
and bigger space

The success of Boulderactive 2010 was
marred due to a mismatch of expectations
between the organisers of Boulderactive
and the OC management. It seems that the
OC management was expecting less crowd,
less noise, less congestion and expecting
the spectators to behave as if watching
a golf playoff. It came to a point where
the OC management kept threatening to
“shut down” the whole event. Luckily, a
compromise between both sides ensued
that Boulderactive proceeded smoothly,
with cooperation from both sides.
Routes, routes, routes simply overwhelmed, overworked and
Jay Koh, one of Singapore’s strongest under-rested. A break of 1 or 2 months
climbers, makes his debut as Chief Route- will be good for both organisers and
setter. To show his ‘tough love’ for our competitors.
local climbers, his routes had zero mercy
for the uncommitted. Those with doubts
also found themselves splayed out on the
mattress more often than climbing on the
wall.
Yes, the routes are tough, but it has to be,
if Singapore’s bouldering standards is to
improve!

Volumes
3 dimensional climbing is here to stay; with
many of the routes utilizing entire volumes
with no affixed hold! With sadistic glee,
the route-setters were sneakily smirking Despite everything, Boulderactive 2010 is
away, as one climber after another got the biggest ever in terms of competition
‘ejected’ or ‘spat’ off the walls. On route numbers – 480 at the last count! This is
2 of the Open Men Qualifiers, the purple only possible due to the “Flash” format
“triangulator” got the better of everyone championed by SCA. It maximised
except Rozihan Anwar, the only climber to participation, climbing time and fun,
top route 2. while minimising manpower, time wastage
and space. The “Flash” format might just
be the paradigm shift much needed in our
bouldering competitions.

In sooth
Not everything was plain-sailing though,
there could have been more mattresses
and it did not help that the wall was also
higher than usual.

Also, back to back competitions are No No!

While the spectators and climbers seem
unaffected, the staff at SCA & climbers
who helped out in the 2 competitions were
Stay tuned to www.sgclimb.com/nbl for more information
about Pumpfest 2010, happening on 28-30 May!
SBL IS ABOUT YOU THE CLIMBER!
The Singapore Bouldering League 2010
(SBL) is endorsed by Singapore Sports
Council (SSC)
Due to SMF’s refusal to ensure that the winner
of this year’s bouldering league will get to
represent Singapore at the Asian Climbing
Championships, SCA has decided to seek, and
has gotten SSC’s endorsement instead.
The male and female champions of SBL 2010
will thus be recommended by SCA to SMF, to
be nominated to represent Singapore at the
Asian Climbing Championships, with tickets
paid for by SCA . In the event that SMF refuses
to acknowledge the best climbers (boulderers)
in Singapore, SCA will seek other means just
so our deserving athletes get their rewards.
When all avenues have been exhausted and
representation is not possible, a cash sum of
$500 will be awarded to the Male and Female
SBL Champions instead.
Varsity Bouldering Cup and JC Bouldering
League
Apart from the Open category rankings, the
SBL this year will also see a separate ranking
for Varsity and Junior Colleges. Climbers from
NUS, NTU and SMU will be representing and
fighting for the inaugural Varsity Bouldering
Cup. With ex-National climber Ron Ho
providing a boost to new comer SMU and with
NTU boasting a strong ladies team; incumbent
NUS may just be having their toughest fight
ever.
For the Junior colleges, the JC Bouldering
League provides them the motivation to train
and compete with their peers. Bouldering is
fast gaining popularity and is fast overtaking
lead and speed climbing. As such, this league
is a primer to gaining official recognition by
the Singapore Schools Sports Council. To that
end, the league will need the support of JC
teachers and climbers to make that goal a
reality.
The winning varsity and JC will get to keep the
champion’s trophy for 1 year, after which it
will be fought over again in 2011. The varsity
or JC that wins it for 3 years will get to keep
the trophy.
With all these activities going on, 2010 is going
to be the milestone in climbing for Singapore.
SBL 2011
Last but not least, the SBL is about the very
people it serves – Climbers, both young
and old. To the young “B” and “C” division
climbers, you are not forgotten! SCA is
planning a “B” and “C” Division bouldering
league in 2011 – so you better start training
now! For the Polytechnics and Institute of
Technical Education climbers, your time will
also come in 2011. If you think SBL 2010 is
exciting, 2011 will blow your mind!
* Information about how ranking and
scoring is tabulated can be found online at
www.sgclimb.com/nbl.
* The athletes receiving the air tickets or
cash prize will need to accept SCA’s terms and
conditions:-
a) Conduct a 3hr climbing clinic
b) Maintain a climbing journal 1 week before up
till end of competition
c) Take pictures and videos of the competition
NTU Bouldermania I am a Maniac, by S.J.

Date – 16 Jan 2010

Venue - The Pavillion @ Tan Chin Tuan Lecture Theatre
No. of participants – 140
Organised by NTU University Mountaineering Club
Supported by SCA
Chief Route-setter – Mohd Irwan (Climb Asia)

Life is short. But mine is even shorter than most. I come to life only for a few days a year at
the behest of the University Mountaineering Club (UMC) and spend those precious days on
NTU grounds. But I don’t mind. I’m comfortable here. It’s been four years, after all, since
I was but a mere twinkle of an idea in a climber’s eye. I am known as Bouldermania.

This year, the four-walled structure that is the core of my existence began to flourish with
life on 14th January with the NTU bouldering carnival. The UMC team and I welcomed a
record number of NTU staff and students on that day to try out the twenty-odd routes
mapped out across the painted plumage of my walls.

So, on the 16th of January, the Novice

women began their climbs bright and early,
on routes set by Irwan from Climb Asia, who,
assisted by an eager-to-please UMC team,
planned and labored as the moon came
and went. His exertions were rewarded as
the arena filled with boisterous climbers as
the day wore on and the Novice and Open
categories progressed. Cheers and shouts
Carnival day dawned and I was hustled right into action as the UMC team began to set of “Allez!” were continuously heard with
up and prepare even before the first rays of sun swept over the building. When the first an occasional sympathetic groan from the
climber (or non-climber, I should say) came to sample the buffet of routes I had in store at crowd of supportive teammates.
9.30am, I was ready. We were ready.
As the competition drew to a close, late
Then I heard the UMC committee say that this year was special. There would be another into the night, and Shahirah A’Azman, Noor
event even more exciting than a carnival. There was to be a competition! A real, bonus-top Zamir, Felicia Lim and Bertrand Yee walked
bouldering competition to accompany and add to the atmospheric “climber’s high”; you away as the inaugural winners of the FIRST
know, that feeling that makes you want to climb and climb till your limbs go on strike. EVER Bouldermania Bouldering Competition
(I apologise for my enthusiasm but with
It was invitational, this bouldering competition, and a first for both Bouldermania and almost 140 participants at my debut, I think
UMC. Polytechnics, junior colleges and universities nationwide were coming to pit their my excitement is fully justified), I watched
climbing talents against each other. That would put me in the ranks of Boulderactive, with satisfaction as the tired but elated
Rockmaster and Pumpfest! I felt like a school sports day runner who was suddenly told he UMC climbers gathered to usher me back
was going to the Olympics. Just this chance, just the experience, was good enough. into hibernation.

What is the purpose of my existence,

one might wonder. As far as carnivals go,
there is the Grand-daddy of all climbing
carnivals, Climb On!, and there is certainly
no shortage of climbing competitions. But
UMC has given me one mission above all: to
bring the joy of climbing to the uninitiated.
I was born out of a true climber’s passion for
the sport and I will continue by the strength
of the same. I am Bouldermania. I may not
have the size of the World Cup but I have
the exact same spirit.

* For full article and more pictures, please check out

sgclimb.com.
Cross training for climbing Cross Training
by Mr.Leong Chee Hoi (MSc, Exercise Science)

Climbing is hard on the upper body since it is not designed to bear our body weight. Climbing
also creates high stresses on our fingers, forearms, elbows, shoulders and, upper and lower Write to Dr. Rock!
back muscles. Engaging in this activity over a prolong period may cause an over-development
of the pulling muscles, which adversely affect posture and cause muscle imbalance. However,
addressing these issues with cross training may prevent injuries and offer a great alternative to Send in your burning
strengthening the body for progress in climbing. climbing questions to
dyno@sgvclimb.com
The muscles utilized for climbing comprises mainly those of the shoulder girdle, the upper back, along
g with your name and contact
biceps and wrist flexors. These muscles are termed the agonist muscles. Conversely, the muscles
working in opposition to the agonist muscles are termed the antagonist muscles. The antagonist number, by 30 April 2010.
muscles work in unison with the agonist to provide stability to the joints involved in an exercise.
In climbing, the antagonist muscles are mainly the deltoids, the chest or pectorals, triceps and Best entry wins $100 worth
wrist extensors. The objectives of cross training are to strengthen the antagonist muscles to of Campers Corner Vouchers!
provide joint stability, and to prevent muscle imbalance. Cross training for climbing in the form
of weight training serves as a simple and effective method to strength the antagonist muscles. (courtesy of Paul Soo)
Here are some common exercises that help strengthen specific muscle groups:

Military Press A Bench Press A Dumbell Flys A

Military Press B Bench Press B Dumbell Flys B

Cable Crossovers A Preacher Curls A Tricep Extension A

Cable Crossovers B Preacher Curls B Tricep Extension B

The list of exercises suggested is not
exhaustive. Nevertheless, they are sufficient
if an athlete intends to incorporate them in a
single session at the weights gym.
The concern with many climbers regarding
weight training is the gain in muscle mass,
which in turn may adversely affect their
climbing. However, proper administration of
training load and the number of repetitions
when performing weight training exercises,
can minimize the effect of weight gain.
Research has shown that 3 sets of 5 repetitions
elicited the most strength gains, while 3 sets
of 15-20 repetitions are ideal for muscular
endurance. So unless you desire to look like
Arnie, avoid performing anything between 8-
10 repetitions.
Mr. Leong Chee Hoi, or more affectionally known
as Spider, is currently a PhD candidate in Exercise
Physiology at the University of Utah. He is a Mad
Rock sponsored athlete and has his own blog at
http://spyclimb.blogspot.com/
Jay Speaks
Interview conducted by Lo Chee Meng
DYNO: Tell us more about what happen
that day. What you ate for breakfast; your
mindset before the climb; pre-climbing
routine, etc…
JAY: I had my usual breakfast of poached
eggs with toast at Andaman Resort in the
morning....
Ended up falling off Blind, deaf and dumb
7B+ on my onsight attempt. Did it on my 2nd
go...
It was towards the late afternoon when i
decided to give Greed a go. Fell off my usual
spot and decided to give the entire route
a good brush as it was still a little wet. A
friend watching below suggested holding a
pocket differently where i kept falling off
from.
I was initially quite apprehensive
about giving it another go as it was
getting dark and the beach was full
of people (i don’t climb too well with
too many people around).
Send it on my next try just as the sun
was setting. My first 8C!
DYNO: What is your next goal in climbing
(or what is your climbing goal this year)?
FA, competitions, bolting, bouldering, trad,
etc?
JAY: To keep pushing the standards of
climbing in Singapore. Maybe a little
competitions here and there. Exploring
new crags, and hopefully a bouldering trip
to Rocklands, South Africa during June!
Anyone?
DYNO: What advice would u give a newbie
climber who wants to climb 8c?
JAY: Stop being a gym rat! Get your arse out
onto some real ROCK!
DYNO: What do you think the SG climbing
community must do to produce
Note - The personal views expressed by Mr. Jay
Koh are entirely of his own making and is not
representative of the views of SCA.
climbers like Ramon, Patxi, Ondra, Sharma?
JAY: ...
DYNO: French 8c is equivalent to V14
boulder. Who do you think will be the first
Singaporean to boulder V14 and when do
you think that will happen?
JAY: I am certain there are lots of people in
Singapore who are capable of climbing V12
right now.
Unfortunately many of them are only
climbing plastics indoor. As for bouldering
V14, hell ya!
For sure we can do it! However it will
only happen when people start pushing
themselves on REAL ROCK!
DYNO: What is your best and worst moment
in climbing?
JAY: It’s a combination…
DYNO: What is your occupation now? Is
it possible to be a professional climber in
Singapore?
JAY: I am doing some coaching part time
right now and NO, it is not possible to be
a professional climber in Singapore. Even
obtaining sponsorship for free gears in
Singapore is not easy. Unlike climbers in the
States, the local climbing shops only support
climbers that compete. Competitions are
only a very SMALL part of climbing. At the
end of the day, the purpose of climbing in
gyms is to get stronger so that you can climb
better on real ROCK...
For full interview, please log on to sgclimb.com.
Answer some simple questions and stand to win a 1
month season pass to Climb Asia!