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Barn Door
Tutorial

H E L LO

Friday, September 5, 2014

Happy friday all!!

I know some of you have
been waiting for this, so here
ya go! I thought a friday
was a perfect time to post
this so maybe you all can
A NI S SA

tackle this little project over

the weekend!

Interior Stylist | House Seven Design and Blog

S O C I A L M EDI A

"

H O U S E SE V E N O N I N S TAG RAM

Barn Door Material

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F O L LOW BY EM AI L

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Wood
(2)-Plytanium 8inch center
4x8ft. ( these will make your
door) $28.98 each
(4) 1x6x10 white wood board
(trim for your door) $6.88
each

P O P UL A R P OS TS

Barn Door Tutorial

Blogger Stylin Home Tour Fall 2015
Blogger Stylin Home Tour Christmas 2015

(1) 1x6x8 (decorative piece to

mount track on) $4.88 each

REC E NT P OS T

D E S I GN F E ATU RE S

The Huffington Post|

Little Peanut Magazine

Steel

| Our Narratives | Everything Home Magazine|

BHG Style Spotters

(1) 8' x 2" piece of steel

(track) Free

27%
off

(1) 3' x 2" piece of steel (door

bracket) $7.20

Tailor Fit Stretch Fit

Micro Suede
Slipcover
(33)

*disclaimer-Lowes and

$109.99

$80.22

Home Depot did not

carry the 8ft piece of
steel. We are lucky
enough to have a friend
who owns a sheet metal
and copper fabrication

8mm African Rosewood

0.79/SFT
SHOP NOW

shop. This is where we

8mm San Salvador Cherry

got our 8ft track. You will

0.89/SFT

want to find a specialty

hardware store or google
a steel fab shop that is
local to you and see if

SHOP NOW

3/4" x 2 1/4" Utility Oak

0.99/SFT
SHOP NOW
lumberliquidators.com

they can provide you

with one.
Hardware
(2) 3" steel pulley (its in the
garage door section at
Lowes) $4.93 each
(6) 3/8"x 5" lag screws (

D I S C LOS URE

I love sharing new product information with

you all in hopes that you will benifit from my
experience with companies that I love.
Occasionally, I earn a small compensation for
these posts but in no way does that
compromise what is my honest opinion.
These opportunities allow me to provide you
all with information that otherwise I may not
be able to by offsetting some of the costs
involved in creating these posts. Thank you!
XX-Anissa

attach the rail to the wall)

$0.31each
(16) 3/8" flat washers (go on
every bolt and screw you
have) $0.94 bag
(6) 3/8" lock washers ( go on
before every bolt) $0.94
bag
(2) 3/8" x 1 1/2" hex bolt
(attaches through center of
wheel)$0.21 each
(4) 3/8" x 2 1/2" hex bolt (
connects steel bracket to the
door)$0.21each
(6) 3/8" x 3" black pipe
nipple- you can find them in
the plumbing section ( used
as spacer for the

3/8" x

5" lag screw) $1.49 each

(6) 3/8" Hex Nuts $0.06
each
(3) 2 1/2 x 1 1/2 Corn brace
L bracket ( these are used
for your stoppers at either

end of the rail and as the

floor guide for your door)
$3.95
1.5" trim nails $1.00
1" wood screws $1.00
100 grit sandpaper $4.99
pack
Wood Glue $7.97 16oz
Door Pull $4.49 (Tractor
Supply)
Equipment
awesome wife with amazing
ideas
super crafty husband to
execute those ideas
table saw
(you can also use any
circular saw or jigsaw, hell
you can use a steak knife but
it might take you till next
year)
miter saw
nail gun ( but you can use a
plain 'ol hammer if you
want)
sander
grinder or any specialty saw
blade that will cut through
steel
drill (or screwdriver)
Hammer Drill (you can also
use a drill press)
level
Socket Wrench
Spray Paint-flat black $5.98
each
Semi gloss white paint
$20.84

GRAND TOTAL $179.00

*This is a tutorial for one

double sided Barn Door with
trim work on one side only.
You will have to double the
amount of wood you need
for the trim if you want it on
both sides. We didn't trim
both sides because the door
will stay open most of the
time and we didn't want the
added weight for something
that we didn't feel would
show very much.

How we made it...

First we cut the overlay

off of both pieces of
wood siding using the

table saw.
This cleaned up the edge.

This photo below shows you

how we cut the end off.

The next step was to use

wood glue and glue both
sides of the wood siding
together.
We glued the back sides
together and then placed a
bunch of heavy crap on top
to hold it tight while it dried.

Heavy crap holding it down

shown below.

Next step was to screw

the two wood siding
pieces together.
Brian drilled 1inch wood

screws in where the trim

would eventually lay on top
so that the screws wouldn't
be visible when the door was
finished.

Next step was the trim

on the "front" of the
door.
This is the side that would
show in the dining room. He
used the miter saw and cut
the white board to make the
trim on the door.

He used a nail gun to nail

all the trim down and then
using a 100 grit sandpaper
sanded the entire door. Trim
included.

The next step was to

paint.
(disclaimer: we forgot to add
the center trim first so you
can go ahead and add all
the trim at once, we're just
ding dongs and painted

twice)
You also want to paint your
1x6x8 support beam at this
time and spray paint all your
hardware black.

We added in the trim for the

center of the door and filled
in the gaps with wood filler
and then painted it all.

So pretty but boy is it heavy!

Next step is to mount the

1x4x8 white wood to the
wall.
Using a level and finding the
studs with a stud finder
Brian screwed this piece in to
the wall with a standard
drill.
The purpose of this piece of
wood is not only to be
decorative but to also add
extra support to the Lag
screws which support the
track. It gives the screws an
extra 3/4" of wood to go
through while also providing

the needed clearance for the

door to move freely on the
track.

Next step is your 8ft

piece of steel.
We measured the wall to see
where the studs were and
then using a Hammer Drill
and 3/8 inch drill bit, drilled
6 holes in to the 8 ft piece of
steel. Brian used some oil to
lubricate the bit each time
he drilled a hole since he
didn't use a masonary bit. If
you are having difficulty
drilling your holes, you can
first drill a pilot hole with a
smaller bit to get you
started.
*MAKE SURE YOU
DRILL THE HOLES
LOW ENOUGH ON
THE BAR TO ALLOW

THE WHEEL TO
MOVE FREELY
ACROSS THE BAR AT
THE TOP!

Then he attached the 8ft

steel piece to the 1x4x8
wood using the lag screws
which fit through the center
of the pipe nipple.
This is how you will attach
the rod in order of hardware:
Lag Screw
Flat washer
8ft Track
Pipe Nipple
Using a hammer he tacked
it in to the wood and then
used the socket wrench to
secure it all the way in.
(picture below is close up of
this process)

The next step was to

bring in the door.
This was only possible with
the help from our neighbor
because even though I
consider myself freakishly
strong, there was no way I
could carry it in to the house!
Its just too heavy.

Next step is your

brackets using your 3ft
piece of steel.
Cut your 3ft steel piece in to
two 18 inch pieces with your
grinder.
The next step is to add
your wheel to these two

pieces. These will be your

door brackets.
In this order:
3/8" x 1 1/2" hex bolt
flat washer
wheel pulley
flat washer
lock washer
3/8" hex nut

Now you will attach your

18" piece of steel (these
are your door brackets)
to the door.
Measure how you want your
door to hang from the track.
This will depend on the

clearance you need from the

floor to the bottom of the
door.
Our door way is 7'10". On
the 18inch steel pieces we
drilled the holes 1.5" from
either end of the steel and
the middle hole was drilled
exactly at 9 inches from
either end. Dead middle.
Three holes total.
We knew we needed 1/2
inch of clearance from the
bottom of the track to the
top of the door and we
needed 1 1/2" of clearance
from the floor to the bottom
of the door. Once we had
this information we drilled
the holes in to the door at
the location we wanted our
brackets to be.
We attached the brackets in
this order:
3/8"x 2 1/2" Hex Bolt
3/8" flat washer
door
3/8" flat washer

3/8" hex nut

The next step is to attach
the door pull....easiest
step by far!
Okay, now that you have
your hardware all in place it
is time to hang the darn
thing.....hands sweating,
praying that you did the
math correctly.....YAY!!! IT
WORKS!!!!

Next we attached the floor

guide because due to the
weight of the door it will
push away from the wall
without a guide holding it in

place.

We used a Corn brace L

bracket and drilled it in to
the floor and stuck a
furniture pad on to it to keep
it from scratching the wood
and also to allow the door to
roll against it smoothly. This
held the door in place.

Next we attached the last

two Corn brace L brackets
to the 1x4x8 white wood
holding the track to serve as
stoppers and keep the door
from rolling off the track!
That would be bad!

Once those are in place, you

can safely use your door!
(I got a little ahead of
myself and took this picture
before we attached the
stoppers...oops!)

Here is the back of the door

that is visible to the kitchen
when closed

You can see above where

the 18' bracket bolts attach
to the back of the door.
And that my friends is
how you make and hang
a barn door!
My thoughts about this

project..
It wasn't easy but it wasn't
hard either. We were able to
execute it rather quickly
which is always a major
bonus in my book. We did
try to stain the door first with
white stain. It didn't end up
looking very good in our
opinion so we went ahead
with painting it instead and I
like it much better this way.
Its funny that once we did
this project, I now see Barn
Door Hardware for sale
everywhere I go.
The thing is, its always way
more expensive then what
we ended up paying by
making it ourselves. I know
that finding the 8ft piece of
steel seems like a huge pain
but with a little leg work you
will find one and it will be so
worth it in the end.
If you have any questions
about this tutorial, please
leave a comment and I will

answer all of them the best I

can!
In the end I hope that this is
a useful resource for you
especially if you are getting
ready to tackle this project in
your own home!!
Good Luck!

"

&

( 12 COMMENTS ON "BARN
DOOR TUTORIAL"

Dee
September 5, 2014 at
8:10 AM

Awesome tutorial,
Anissa (and
excellent
photography)! And
by the way, Brian
is the best model
S Tever!
Y L IN
;) G S E RV I C E S

DE SI G N QU ES TI O NNA I R E

R E P LY

H O M E TO UR 2 0 15
Replies

AD M I N

House

HOM E TOU R 2 01 4

L E T 'S M E E T

Seven
September
5, 2014
at 9:19
AM

Thanks
Dee! I
really
tried to
make
it as
detailed
as
possible.
Oh and
yes, he
was
very
happy
about
being
in so
many
pics:)

Lorene Nance
December 10, 2014 at
8:21 AM

Hi Anissa! I work
with Cassity over
at <a
href="http://www.remodelaholic.com>Remodelaholic</a>
and we would love
to feature this!
Drop me a line at
hello@remodelaholic
. com and we can
discuss the details.
Lovely work, and
such a lovely
home!
Cheers,
Lorene

TOP

R E P LY

Replies
Lorene
Nance
December
10, 2014
at 8:22
AM

Oops, I
messed
up the
link!
Let's
try that
again...
Remodelaholic

Rose Bird
January 19, 2015 at
2:36 AM

Hi, Yours is the

best tutorial on
this project I have
found. About to
replace two doors
using this. I see
you used 3"
pulleys but do you
think it would
make any
difference to use
4" pulleys? I would
like the larger
diameter on one
of the doors we
are putting in.
Thanks for any
input you can
offer.
R E P LY

Rosemary Bailey
January 28, 2015 at
7:39 AM

The door looks

amazing! Those
steel used as
tracks and door
brackets are really
clever. I like the
fact that you
decide to make it
a sliding door, it is
much more
convenient to use.
I also like its color,
it makes the
kitchen look old
school yet classy.
Thank you for
sharing this lovely
post. All the best
to you.
Rosemary Bailey
@ Wabi Iron &
Steel Corp.
R E P LY

DenofSix
January 29, 2015 at
2:45 PM

Thank you so
much for your step
by step tutorial!
My hubby just
mentioned today
that maybe my
idea of a barn
door would be a
good idea. Now, I
have something to
show him to prove
that not only is my
idea good, but also

doable!!
R E P LY

Bernice Parsons
March 9, 2015 at 2:58
PM

The door looks

great! You guys
did a pretty swell
job on this. It
seems like it
requires a lot of
hard work. But by
the looks of
things, its all
worth the effort.
Anyway, I like how
you painted the
steel tracks. It will
probably fade due
to the grinding,
but I think itll add
a more vintage
look to it which
is pretty nice.
Thanks for sharing
this. Have a great
day!

Bernice Parsons @
Badgeranodising
R E P LY

Arthur Greene
July 13, 2015 at 3:29
PM

Wow! It seems
that this barn door
turned out a great
project, given that
the materials are
high quality. Also,

the steel brackets

are also a great
idea to make the
door more durable.
Well, thanks for
sharing about this.
All the best to
you!
Arthur Greene @
Central MM
R E P LY

Ian T. Anstett
September 4, 2015 at
5:45 AM

I Cant wait to try

and make this!
Super excited!!!
gopaintsprayer.com
R E P LY

Beverly Hayes
September 11, 2015
at 9:49 AM

How about making

a frame that sits
inside the wood
siding panels for
the front and back,
nailing that and
then making the
outside frame and
diagonal piece? It
would cut back on
the weight quite a
bit, I think. What
do you think? It
looks stunning!
R E P LY

Albert
December 5, 2015 at
12:33 AM

Nicely presented
information in this
post, I prefer to
read this kind of
stuff. The quality
of content is fine
and the
conclusion is good.
Thanks for the
post.
sliding glass door
repair
R E P LY

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