LIBRARY OF CONGRESS.

sh.eif_XX.590

rGlfefci

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA,

<J^

WilW*

N C

THE

*4 %*

AMERICAN

Coat.VestanoTrousers Syst EM

SELDEN

GORDON.

S.

PRACTICAL EDITOR
OF THE

AMERICAN FASHION JOURNAL.

FOR THE STUDENT AND

ADVANCED CUTTER.

"" Mk

l:

JOHN
'""-.

MITCHELL,

MOM
,895.

SQ,

u,. X,w

\,

Copyright,

By

S.

S.

1895,

GORDON.

* v n a

PRE FAC

Charles Dickens, in his preface

"An

as follows:
to

have

it

hole

at a

goes

in to

attended

to,

"Pickwick Papers,' has expressed our thought

to communicate under this head, and expects
to a man who takes his friend by the buttonentertain him with a personal gossip before he
to

who has much

may be compared

author

theatre dour, and seeks to

the play."

"Nevertheless, as prefaces, though seldom read, are continually written, no doubt

for the
will

behoof of that so richly and so disinterestedly endowed personage, posterity win.

into an immense fortune),
add my legacy to the general remembrance."
i

come

Great progress has been made in the science of garment cutting during the
System has followed system, nearly all of more or less merit.

present century.

From

the simplicity of early so-called systems, to the complexity of those of the

present day, there

is

marked growth. In

ness of method, should never he abandoned

all

advances, however, simplicity, or natural-

It is self-evident that a straight line

is

the

method by which the distance from any given point to another may he obtained, is by measuring in the shortest and most direct manner, when possible, from one point to the other.
This simple
principle seems to have been lost sight of by at least very many, and indirect, outof-theway and unscientific methods have been substituted so that with complexity has
confusion and uncertainty.
shortest distance between two points, and that the most simple

It is

ting which

the purpose of the author of this work to present a system of

based upon scientific principles.

natural and easy of comprehension.
is

simple, because

it is

They

garment

cut-

are therefore

After all the thought which has been given to this science, it cannot be rightly
claimed that there exists today a generally-accepted standard for the guidance of the
student, yet there are discernable two general principles which are contending for supremacy, viz., that of the direct application of the measurements of the form and its

and the other, that the lengths and widths of the parts can be better established
by proportions of height, breast, waist and seat measures, or that the normal form furnishes the basis from which all irregular forms are to be treated.
parts,

It is not our purpose to bewail and bemoan.

Kmmersou counseled well when
he wrote: "Don't waste yourself in rejection, nor bark against the bad, but chant the
good.
beauty of the
When that is spoken which has a right to be spoken, the clatter

and the criticism

will stop."

recognize that both of these principles are essential under existing conditions, but that each has its appropriate sphere.
There should be no longer any contenV. e

GORDON'S WORK ON CUTTING.

between the two principles, but our efforts should be directed so that we may
which each should act, and that we may ascertain betmethods for the application and perfection of both.

tion as

better understand the spheres in

ter

The
ments,

science of

garment cutting may be

under two heads or depart-

classified

viz.:

Special or Custom, and General or

student

is

Ready-Made.

required to produce a pattern which, in

lengths and widths of

its

In the

first

department the

lengths and widths, and in the

adapted to the special requirements of each customer

have regard for his taste regarding any special or genIt must conform to the special requirements of his form,
eral feature of the garment.
be graceful in outline and curvatures, and give freedom to the form when in any
its parts, is

He must

as presented to him.

natural attitude

In the second department his work has lost this special characteristic, and must
be adapted to meet broader and more general requirements.

average proportions of the

which

in all

human form

department,

it

is

of proportions

not the

first

If rightly understood

student.

Here a knowledge of the

indispensable, as garments are to be produced

their parts are best adapted to the requirements of the greatest possible

number of any given size.

While a knowledge
first

is

partment, will find

it

is

of the greatest value to one

when

in the

matter which should receive the attention of the

and appreciated, the student, when in the first deacquirement of the knowledge

to be the best of schools for the

and experience which are essential to perfect himself in the duties of that department, and which will also better qualify him for the duties of the next.

One may

ignore the

first

steps and seek to gain

by

a bound, positions

where the

highest education and experience are essential, but his success will not be of the highest order.

In order that the best results

may

be obtained, no student can afford to

ignore or neglect any part of the education which

He must

also have regard to the order in

After
ferred

to,

many

necessary to perfect his knowledge.

is

which his investigations are pursued.

years of experimental application of both the principles herein

the author of this work does not hesitate to declare that the primary

work

re-

of

the student should be in qualifying himself so that he can, with sufficient accuracy,
ascertain the lengths, breadths and posture by a direct measurement of the form, and
the working out of a system by which these can be transferred to the draft. Thus gar-

ments can be produced for each form as they are presented to him, without any regard
being either proportionate or disproportionate, and there will be no exceptions
to which this system will not apply.

to their

When

he has become proficient in this he will be prepared to take the next step,
inform himself in regard to average proportions. He will find his
labor greatly lessened, or his capacity as regards the amount of work which he can perform greatly augmented by the use of proportionate blocks, which he himself is competent to produce, and is therefore qualified to use.

which

will be to

Those who favor proportionate systems

cutting,

have done much

exclusion of all others for custom

and scope, but there are limitations

to the

to enlarge their usefulness

GORDON'S ttnkk ON

CI

PTING

beyond which they arc not as yet able to go with satisfactory results. They meet the
requirements of a large number, because a large number come within the range of proportionate tonus.

also

But there are a large number who do not come within

must be met and supplied in a satisfactory manner.

this range,

and their needs

The principle of direct measurement and ascertainment of the lengths, widths,

and of the lengths and widths of the parts, and of the posture, meets the demands of
each case without exception as they are presented, proportionate or disproportionate.

thus be seen that we recognize the value of both

It will

vocate their use as conditions and requirements

We
will,

in

as

doing

have endeavored

lie

this,

to

mere "rule"

make our

With

the

reason

If

we have succeeded
it is based upon

unless

which can be demonstrated

aroused,

fully

and ad-

principles so plain that the thoughtful student

will cease to control the action,

a scientific principle the correctness of

principles,

govern.

the reason for each step taken.

see

progresses,

may

the

student

who

knows

why

In

has a great advantage over one who merely works from a "rule," for the
employment of which he can give no reason even satisfactory to himself. His adthus or

so.

vancement

will be

more

rapid,

and his work

will

be of an intellectual, rather than of

a machine, character.

The study

comprehensive from basic principles to the full

garments worn at the present time, usual and unusual, and the manner of their production for all sizes and shapes.

illustration

We have
of practical

herein contained

and explanation of

aimed

to set

experience in

is

all

down nothing

that will not aid

both departments of study,

somebody.

Many

in positions of great

years

responsi-

which have been marked by highly creditable results, have inspired this work.
author has succeeded in adding anything to the volume of experience from out
of which truer principles and a more scientific application may be evolved, he will feel
amply rewarded for his labor.
bility,

If the

GORDON'S WcRK ON

HOW

tTING.

CI

TO MEASURE.
FOR A SACK COAT.

Button coat upon client, pulling down gently until you havea fairh smooth surface
in back from scat line up, observing that the center back seam is not drawn to one side
Should there be any looseness at the back waist, unbutton the
of the center of back.
coat and draw it snugly to the form, securing it by a pin at front.
Locate the Natural II 'aist at C by a chalk mark at center of back.
Place the sliding arm measuring stick under arms of client, as shown in Fig. i,
pressing up firmly. Then, holding the stick in this position by the right hand at
left of client, and support the brass arm near the
end of same with the left hand. Press up firmly with both hands, bringing; the brass
arm to a level, and then holding the long arm of the stick in this position securely
against the back, take position at back of client and make a mark on the top side of

the center of back, take a position at

stick at B.

Remove
as

shown

the sliding arm. and place the fixed

in Fig.

Mark

2.

Locate the collar seam

and

full

length

back by a chalk mark at A.

measures first to B, then

at top of

Place end of tape at

line D,

arm under the right arm

of client,

the half back width on the outer side of stick as at G.

and

call the

to C,

then to seat

end of tape at center of back (opposite G) and measure the halfback

holding end of tape in same position, raise the right arm to a level,
the forearm bent forward at a right angle, measure to elbow, and to a point one half
inch beyond the wrist joint for length of sleeve.
Place the measuring stick under left arm. as in Fig. 3, pressing it firmly up and
Place

width to

Still

against the front of shoulder with the

to center of

back B.

Then bring

Take

left

hand, and with the right hand carry the tape

It is called the short blade measure.

this quite snug.

tape up over front of shoulder and take a snug measure to A, also

over the center of shoulder take a snug measure to B.

Still

arm

falls

holding

stick

in

perpendicularly, and

Natural Waist C, as

Remove

Remove

position,

make

a chalk

observe

mark

particularly

at the

coat,

that

long

the

back edge of stick

at the

at the reference 3.

the stick, and with tape take a snug measure from

(See Diagram

Suppression.

same

3 to

<

lor

Back

\\ aist

1.)

and measure the arm seve snugly on the

line

where sleeve head

joins the shoulder.

Take

the breast measure fairly close over the vest, with the tape well up over the

blades, observing that the client breathes naturally

Take

and does not expand the

chest.

the waist measure fairly snug over the vest at the natural waist, straight

around the body, as on line C.

Take seat measure fairly close over the trousers, as on line D. the pockets being
first

relieved of contents.
9

CORDON'S WORK ON CUTTING.

FOR A BODY COAT.

Proceed as for a sack coat, with the following exceptions and additions

Having, as previously instructed, located the points A, B and C, commence by

measuring from A to B, then to a point 3^ inches below B,then to a point 1 inch above
C, then to fashionable length of waist, and length of skirt E
Take the half back width, sleeve length, short blade, front scye depth, and center
shoulder, as previously instructed.

Then, with the measuring stick under the left arm, as in Fig. 3, the long arm
being in a perpendicular position, make a cross chalk mark 3^ inches down from arm
scye at back edge of stick, and also at the natural waist, as at 5. (Diagram iv.)

Remove

the stick, and with tape take a snug measure from

length of waist, then from

at full

5 to the point

5 to

center of back

inch above C, for waist suppression.

Then measure from the point 3^2 inches below 3 on line B, to the point 3^2
B Also from the same point to B. Take all measures snug.
Remove coat, and measure arm scye, breast, waist and seat, as already instructed.

inches below

CLERICAL COATS,
For

Etc.

which button to the neck, two additional measures are required, viz.
For size of coat collar, and slope of neck gourge. For the first, place end of tape at A
and measure close around over the vest on the gourge line (which the eye can establish on client) to the front center of neck, noting the size.
Then, still holding tape at

all

coats

hand, follow down with the right to about the breast line at center front.
end of tape from A and extend it directly up to neck at center front,
noting the number of inches where it intersects with the point established for the half
length of collar.

with the

Hold

left

there, release

FOR OVERCOATS.
Measure in the same manner as for under coats, and in addition thereto take the
breast, waist and seat measures over the under coat.
If to button to neck, take the two measures for size of collar and for slope of
neck gourge in same manner as for an under coat, excepting that the measures are to
be taken over the tinder

coat.

FOR VESTS.
and measure from A to the height of opening desired, then full
center front in a direct line from A, then to natural waist at side, and full side

Remove
length at

coat,

length.

Take
Take
the body.

below

the breast measure fairly close under the vest.

the waist measure fairly close over waistband of trousers, straight around
For corpulent forms an additional measure may be taken on a line 3 inches

to the full

When
depth,

A to

3,

length in

front.

back scye depth, A to B, front scye

and waist suppression, C to 5, in same manner as for coat.

a vest only is required, take also the

short blade,

to 3,

GORD<

IN'S

ON

Wi >RK

CI

[TING

FOR TROUSERS.
First relieve the pockets of their contents, and, the client standing erect,

from just over the hip bone to knee, and on to within

seam.
hen place end of tape with left hand close up
+

oi

in crotch,

inch

measure

the floor for outside

and measure

to

within

inch of floor for inside leg seam.

Take

waist measure fairly

snug over

waistb; nd of trousers and just

over the

hip hone.

measure over the fullest part of seat.

knee and bottoms as per prevailing style.
For corpulent forms an additional measure may be taken to ascertain the height
of rise in trout, by placing end of tape at the height desired for waistband seam at the
center front, and extending tape first to the side of leg at knee, then to within ; + oi an

Take
Take

a fairly close seat

size for

inch

the floor

of

at

side of foot, noting the length to

manner

this

last

Apply

point.

this

which it is taken, i. c from the bottom

of outside seam up to side of knee, and from there sweep across at center trout.
When close-fitting legs are in vogue, take an intermediate measure between waist
and knee at the fullest part of thigh, noting also the distance below the waist where

measure

to the draft in the reverse

measure is taken, and applying

Also take a measure for size of
where it is taken.

this

draft.

to

at the

same distance down when making the

calf, also

noting the distance below the waist

it

NOTES.

(O

Take

measures uniformly close.

(2.) Notice if one shoulder is more sloping than the other, and make memoranda
of any peculiarities of shape which may exist and not indicated by the measurements.
(3.) When properly taken there should lie one inch difference between the coat
and vest breast measures. If more or less difference is apparent upon first trial, remeasure both over and under, until this difference is obtained.
(4.) When the waist measures for trousers, vest and coat are properly taken
(as on line C), there will be about 1 inch difference between that for trousers or vest
and that for the coat, excepting for corpulent forms, when the size of waist will be about
the same for the three garments.
(5.) When measuring fertrousers.it is best to consult client as to whether he

them

desires

to

all

be close or easy at seat or waist.

the matter and increase the size

but do not vary in the

when making

manner of taking

If easy,

the measures

t.

e.,

take a

much

the draft as

as

memorandum of
may he required

sometimes snug,

at

others

easy), hut take uniformly close measures.

(6.)

When

measuring men of large build

for a coat,

do not fear

to

take snug

measures
<

making

7.

For slight or slender forms increase breast and waist measures

the draft, and the short measures, as blade waist suppression, and

measures,

',

inch.

inch

all

when

shoulder

Diagram

I.

GORD<

IN'S

EXPLANATION
'I'm'.

ON

U< RK

rTING.

(l

DIAGRAM

OF

Single-Breasted Sack Coat.

clear comprehension of the principles which are illustrated herein will greatly

lessen the

work which the student,

as they have to do with

ill

in this

system of garment cutting, has undertaken,

in their application to, the drafts which

of and arc the same

are to follow.
It is

drafted from the following measures, viz

Back Scye Depth (A to Bj

Natural Waist (A to C)
Seat Line (A to D)
Full Length (A to E)
Half Rack Width (opposite G)

8)4
17
2

1
'

30
7

Sleeve

J,

Short Blade
Front Scye

(B
1

(2 to II)....

>epth

Center Shoulder (front of seve up over center of shoulder to B)

Back Waist Suppression
(C to 3).
Ann Scye

to 2)

10
.

A
:

15^

Breast

36

Waist

32

Seat

..

As the garment

he of these lengths and widths

to

is

when

37

finished, the proper

for seams and ease must be added

Begin by drawing a straight line from A to F.
This is the foundation line from which all cross lines are squared.
Make a mark at A, and go down .-'_ inches to B, 17 inches

allowance

D, and 30 plus

'

to C,

24^

to

inch to F.

_.

Square across from each of the above points.

Go in at I) and F % inch, at C + inch, and mark the center of back
seam from A through B, C and D to E.
Remember that all widths must now be applied from the center of back
seam, and not from the foundation line A. F.
From A to is ',, of the breast on the divisions of square.
From 1 (line A) to O is A inch*
From B to 1 is the half back width 7. plus % inch.
of breast on the divisions of square
From E to
is
~

_'

'

From C
From P>
From 2
From 2
*

For 38

to

is ]

to 2 is

(line

breast,

''

inch less than from

the blade measure

B)

to front of

to 3 is

% inch;

/6
l

scye

is

11.
1

to

plus

2.
'

..

inch.

inch.

of breast on the division of square, plus

1

inch.

Other

'4

sizes in proportion.

inch.

GORDON'S WORK ON CUTTING.

From B
From 4
From 5

of breast.

)A

to 4 is

B) is 2 % inches.
to 6 (line B) is 1% inches.
Square up on breast line at 1, 2, and 3, and down at 2.
From (line B) to 10 is inch.
From 1
to G is 6 of breast on the division of square, and
to 5 (line

From
From

}4 inches.
(line B) to
is the front scye depth, 12
to 12 is

Sweep by

inch.

as a center, from

K, and draw line

to

j/8

inches.

2 to J.

From J to L is % of breast on the divisions of square.

Square out from line J 2 at L to M.
Sweep from 5 (line B) to J, finding a center at X, just below B, and from the
same center sweep up from 6.
From C to 1, and 3 to X is the back waist suppression 8, plus yi inch (the
same as added to blade).

From C
From 4

to

1,

and

to 5 (line

Square down from

From
Form

(line

to 4 is yi of waist, 16.

C)
4

is

2%

and

D) to 2 is
arm scye

inches, and from 5 to 6

(line
1

2 /,

inches.

to 3

and

(See note

is

inches.

(line D).
4.)

diagram, making the half-back width

opposite G 2 inch more than the half-back measure, or 7^ inches.
Form the back shoulder from O to 12, and complete the side seam of back
from 10 to 1 on line C.
the back

12 to 10 as per

Draw
Form

a straight line from

10 to

on line F.

the front and bottom of scye, beginning

inch above S,
crossing breast line }< inch forward of 2 to bottom of scye, which is

up

line B,

to 10, as per

mark
3

past R,

+ inch
'

below

diagram.

To
ning

at

get the height of point P, apply the full scye measure, 15^ inches, begin
R, measure along under arm scye and up past G to 12, deducting for five

seams, or ) A inches. Then place the tape with the size thus far obtained at R, and
continue towards P, until you have the full size required, and
inch, from which make
a short sweep forward and back by S1

is

the nick of back

arm seam, and

is

the nick for front of scye.

is

inch above line B.

Form

side

seam of forepart from 10 through

on

lines

C and D

to

on line F,

as in diagram.

Cut out the back, leaving about 1 inch of paper at the top (A to O), and place it
shown in the upper part of diagram, with the point A resting on the
sweep line H K, and O resting on the line J 3. Secure the back by a pin at O
Now
apply the center shoulder measure from front of scye on line B up over center of
shoulder to B, 16% inches), as shown by the curved line in diagram. Allow the point
B to swing either up or down by the pivot at O until the figures on the tape indicating
the center shoulder measure touch at B.
(Nothing is added to the front and back scye depths, nor to the center shoulder
in the position

GORDON'S

W( IRK

ON

Cl TTINCi.

measure, for the reason that the sinking of the scye ; + inch below line B is an
equivalent for the seams, which otherwise would have to be added.
Having adjusted the back in manner described, so that the required distance has
I

shoulder measure (the point A still resting on sweep

weight on the hack and mark along the edge of paper from ()
to the intersection of the curved line R B. and on to P, as in diagram.
Make the length of front shoulder scam (O to P) % inch less than from
line

to

for the center

obtained

been

K), place

II

of hack.

M. as per diagram, and trim top of hack (A

Form neck gourge, A

to this

to

O)

line

Put

under center of

fish

scye.

extending

to

pocket mouth, taking out

]A.

inch at line C.

>

is

inch below the square line extending out from P.

Draw slightly outward curved

lines from

4,

and 6 on line

B,

to 4, 5

and 6

on line C.
(

httline lapel

to 6,

and front of

skirt, as per

diagram or the prevailing

style.

For Si/e and Location of lockets, see Contents.

For Sleeve, see Diagram IX, and explanation.

For Corpulent Forms, see Diagram \. and explanation.
For Collar, see Diagram wii, and explanation.
N( )TES.

The space from X to

medium shapely backs.

on line C, as in the diagram, is as would be

For dose-fitting waists the entire space (X to 2)
must be disposed of by enlarging the fish at waist line, and the quantity to be
taken out between
and 2.
(2.)
When it is desired that the coat shall be less shapely at hack waist.
omit the fish entirely, but to compensate for the two scams, which would otherwise be
11.)

required for

required at bottom of scye, take

ing to nothing
(3.)

from

to
(4.)

having

'

inch off of the

Diagram

at line C, as in

forepart

at

on line B, extend-

xiy.

For whole backs, apply all width measures from a straight line, extending
and upon completing the draft, cut the paper + inch forward of this line.
'

I-',

The

a seat

space from

measure

to 2 (line D), vi/., 2'_- inches, is for proportionate forms,

inches greater than waist.

As

the relation of these parts vary

apply the following

in different forms,

RULE.
5

For each inch of difference between waist and seat measures, more or less than
inches, add to, or deduct from, the space from X to 2 line D) (as established for pro1

portionate forms),

Waist
41

32,

'

of an inch.

Seat 37, difference

32,

'"

38,

36,

"

39,

"

Example:
5

inches.

"

"'

'"

From X
From X
From X

to

2,

2^2

inches.

to

2,

2-;

inches.

to

2,

inches.

Diagram

GORDON'S WORK ON

CI

[TING

EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM

II.

Double-Breasted Sack Coat.

The same measures

exceptions and additions

The

i.

explanation of Diagram

i,

with the following

how far apart latterally it

To determine this, establish a center

space from 5 to 6 on line B depends upon

VVV,

front line as

For example:

shall be placed.

which
It

is

is

From

4 to

..

inch forward from

line

is

of

5.

that the buttons shall be ,v 4 inches apart, there-

VVV

making up

of an inch for

l/^

'

desired

forego back from the center

plus

in

desired that the buttons

'..,

Diagram

are used as in

Follow the instructions as given

'

of

3^

to

inches to button line, and forward

to 6.

6 on line C, and from

on line D,

is

the

same

as from 4 to 6

on line B

As the diagram represents

the line extending from

above the

and T.

at

low

the neck gourge

roll,

For short

M.

roll, raise

is

dropped

'

inch below

the neck gourge about

'

inch

line.

Form

top of lapel

In the
is

to X.

diagram from

inch below line

according

T to N
E

is 3

to
'

_>

style,

taking out a

'

inch

between

inches.

Outline front and bottom of forepart as per diagram.

Space

for

button holes as per style, and sweep from eve of lower hole, using

as a pivot, to button line for position of lower button, then space for those above on

button line the same as the spaces between button holes.

Diagram

GORDON'S WoKK

IN

CI

flNG.

EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM

III

The Shawl-Collar Sack Coat.

Proceed
is

in the

same manner

no absolute width from 4 to

on

After having obtained the

as in explanation of
line C. the coat not

/2
l

parts being outlined as explained for

fold the

coat, the
is

also

breast (B to 4). and

Diagram

1,

draw

paper back on this line and outline lapel

neck gourge should be sunk from

cut quite convex

For

all short-roll,

must be made from 4

leaf edge,

'_>

on the sew-on edge.

'

that there

waist (C to 4),

a crease

line as

to taste or style.

inch to an inch below

all

from 16

Being a

M.

other
to

18,

low-roll

The

collar

(See Diagram win.)

button-up coats of this class the

to 5

Diagram [.except

being required to button.

full

allowance of

3^

inches

on line B, and the collar must be cut more convex on the

and concave on the sew-on edge.

Diagram

IV.

WokK ON

Gl iRD< >N'S

[TING

CI

EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAMI.V.
The 3-Button
The

2.

3.

4.
5.

>i>\

>\ r.

proportionate measures for a 36-breast body coat (see Tables of Lengths and

Widths) are as
1.

B(

follows, viz

Back Scye Depth

To
To

point 3

'

8j4

inches below

12

inch above the Natural Waist

16

Length of Waist, say

Full Length of Skin, say
l
Back Width
2
/

18^

Blade

11

Full

38

'

6.
7.

8.
9.

10.

Scye

11.

13.

From
From
From

14.

From

15.

From

12.

Front Scye Depth

Center Shoulder

[6

r,

1514
2

011

Breast line to

on upper Waist

the same point (5)

Waist Suppression)

3^

the point

below on the upper Waist line

line to center of
to center of

back

7'..

lower Waist

at

line,

back directly opposite (Back

8

inches below

on Breast line

to the point

3^

inches below

the same point diagonally to

10^

6.

Breast (over the Vest)

36

7.

Waist (over the Vest)

32

18.

;
-

Seat

37
(

Read

How to

carefully "

And commence by marking

Measure,"

the foundation line

p. 9.)

to F.

All cross lines are squared from this line, except for pitch of neck gourge,

From A to B is the Back Scye Depth, S;.. inches.

From A to the upper waist line is inch less than to
1

L M.

the Natural Waist C, or 16

inches.

Mark

full

length of Waist, iS> 4

Also make a mark

Square across

Go

in

at

3J72

A B

and length of Skirt F

inches below

to E,

38,

plus

measure

inch.

12.

upper and lower waists and F.

on the upper waist line

T
_.

inch from the foundation

and mark the center of back

same from a straight line extending from A
way bet wee u B and C.
from

for the second

to the

line, also

to

lower waist line

',

line A,

through B

the

same

hollowing the
of an inch mid-

GORDON'S WORK ON CUTTING.

Remember

that all width measures

must be applied from the

of back

center

seam, not from the foundation line.

From
From

breast,

to

inch;

(,

A)

back

is

the half-back measure

is

to top of

inch.

(For 38 breast,

inch; 40

etc.)

etc.,

From B to
From center

of the breast on the division of square.

is

(line

plus y inch.

7,

of back at lower waist line to

is

of the breast on the division

of square.

From E to F is % inch more than the width at waist line.

Mark down from 1 on lower waist line to E at bottom, rounding
from

out

inch

straight line, and add one inch on both sides of back skirt for plaits.

From B to 2 is the blade measure, plus /2 inch.

From 2 (line B) to front of scye is inch.
From 2 (line B) to 3 is % of the breast on the division of square and }4 inch.
From B to 4 is }4 of the breast measure.
From 4 (line B to 5 is 2% inches.
From 5 (line B) to 6 is (> inches.
Square up at 1, 2, R and 3, and down at 2, and at a point midway between
l

and

(line B).

on the
From
(line B) to G is
b of the breast
From G to 12 is 1)2 inches.
inches.
From G to 10 is
2
Form the back scye as per diagram, observing
l

division of square and

4 inch.

site

is

)/2 inch greater

Form

that the width of bach oppo-

than the half-back measure.

the shoulder

to

and side seam of back 10

to

on lower waist

line,

as per diagram.

is

the nick for back

Y+ inch above line

From

Using
Diagram 1.)
L. is l 4

arm seam, and

is

for the nick at front of scye.

(line

B)

(line

B) as a

to

(see
pivot,

Diagram

1)

is

sweep from

is

the front scye depth.

to

and draw

of the breast, on the division of square, below

Square out on line

J, 2 at

The sweep from

line

to J.

(See

J.

L-

Sweep from 5 (line B) to J, finding a center near the

from the same center sweep up from 6.

just below B.

Also

gives the button line for single-breasted coats (except such

as button to the neck, for explanation of

which see Diagram

yi).

Square across from G to S and form the front and bottom of arm scye, beginning
inch above S mark past R, crossing line B }i inch forward of 2 to the bottom of

GORDON'S WORK

CI

continue

to

<

[NG.

'

which

scye,

inch below line

is

B,

top of side-body, as

shown

the

in

diagram.

To

get point

P and

explanation of Diagram

Go

to

complete front shoulder and neck goui

as in

i.

in on the upper waist line from

to

inches.

2,

Apply the hack

X, adding

'_.

The
3

and

arm

4,

waist measure (8) from the center of back to

inch (the same as is added to the blade measure).

space between

and

(over the hack-waist measure)

one-half on each side of the perpendicular line

is

i.

and from

to

taken out between

the bottom ol

falling from

scve.

\pply

'

From
Mark

of

mainder from

measure from

the

waist

:'

+ inches,

center of back to

the

1.

and the

re-

to 6.

6 to

7 is

and from

7 to 8 is

'

inches.

_.

the side seams of forepart and side-body from bottom of scye through 3 to

Uj and through 4 to V, as in diagram.

To

obtain the line of back seam of side-body apply measures

_\

[3,

and 15

14

to center of back 011 lower

adding ' inch to each
Apply No. 12 from
waist line, and from 5 (upper waist line) to the lower waist line just above T.
omitting the space between 3 and 4, making a mark on the lower waist line where the

as follows,

tape indicates the size required, pins

Apply Xo.
3 to 2,

add

[3

from

inch and

'..

make

to

inch.

center of back on upper waist line, and from

mark

at

to 4

and

2.

Apply Xo. 14 by taking the width of the hack at the point 3

inches below B,
and placing the tape with the figures indicating this width, at the point 3
inches
below 2 on line II. measure then to side seam of forepart (omitting the space taken out
between forepart and side body
then across from the front of side-body, making a
mark at back of side body, as per measure, with % inch added.
'

'_

I,

Apply Xo. 15 (to B) in the same manner, then by these four marks last obtained
form the back seam of side body as per diagram
Slight deviation from these marks
may be made when necessary to avoid any irregularity of curve which may arise from
an imperfect measurement or application of these measures.
They are of importance
in determining the right quantity and disposition of cloth through the back, .and the
spring of side-body at T.
After a little practice they can be taken and applied with
accuracy.

Measure along the

crosses

011 to

distance, plus

is

Draw
\V

side

seam of back from

at lower waist to where the line
down on the back seam of side-body the same
1

the side-body, then follow

inch to T.

inch above the lower waist

line,

a slightly-upward curved line from

is 2

inches below the lower waist

Form bottom

line

of forepart,

to

and

to

is

;
-

inch above.

1'.

line.

W,

as per diagram.

Take out

fish

from

GORDON'S

WORK ON CUTTING.

seam of

forepart up, having regard to the hollowness or flatness of client at that

Usually cut out from nothing at bottom and top of fish to Vs inch at the center.
Outline front of forepart and mark the breast pocket.

waist

part.

Cut out forepart and side-body and proceed

THE

to draft.

SKIRT.

Draw a straight line across paper 2 or 3 inches from the top, and place the
Secure by a
forepart over with the lower waist line resting on the line just made.
weight and mark along the bottom edge of forepart, making a cross-mark at V
and

at

W.
Add

From
2

shown
Take out

(as

By

to

lines),

1,

and thus complete the top of

From
is

to 5 is the

through 4

same

2.

9 inches below the lower waist

T resting on the lower waist

and mark along bottom from V to

a curved stick, 24 inches in length,

the back line of skirt from

inch from

is

against V, and

diagram in broken

in

which gives point

to T,

which

3,

line.

(See note.)

2)/2 inches.

to 4 is

towards

Place the side-body with

at

the width of side-body from

Square down from

to 5,

skirt

1,

V,

line
2.
2.

having a convexity of
inch, mark
and add 1 inch for plait.
1

as length of back skirt.

the same distance, plus ^4 inch below the lower waist line.

Outline front of skirt as per the prevailing style, and cut out the remainder of
the pattern.

For Sleeve,

see

Diagram

For Corpulent Forms,

For

Collars, see

x.

see

Diagram

Diagram xu
xviii.

NOTE.
The

space from 3 to 4 of skirt, viz

2}4 inches, is for proportionate forms having

As the relation of these parts vary in

a seat measure 5 inches greater than waist.

different forms,

apply the following

RULE.
For each inch of difference between waist and seat measures more or
for a proportionate

form

(of skirt), y^ of an inch.

Waist

inches), add

Example

to,

32,

"

"

39,
38,

'

"

less

than

or deduct from, the space from 3

to 4

34, Seat 39, difference is 5 inches.

36,

"

(viz., 5

"
''

"

"

From
From
From

will

be

2^

to 4

to 4 will be 2

to 4 will be

2%

inches.

inches.
inches.

GORDON'S

ON

\\(>RK

CI

INC.

LOCATION AND SIZE OF POCKETS.

The

length and style of a coat modifies the position of the hip pockets for under
should be placed in conformity with

coats, but as a rule, subject to these exceptions, they

the height of the figure, on a line

Diagram

I,

and

'

of the distance between

For under coats make the hip pockets ; + of the

Widths), and the breast pocket )/2 the size of hand, adding

For overcoats use the same proportions, but add

Make
Make
Make
Make

C and

I).

above

I),

as in

inch lower for overcoats.

the cash pocket

';

size of

the vest top pockets

/3
l

the lower vest pockets

hand and

size of
'I

'

size
'_

of hand (see Table of

inch to each for tacks.

inch.

inch.

hand and

inch.

hand and j4 inch.

size of hand, and the hip pockets

size of

the front pockets for trousers

-_(

}4 inch less.

^-

Diagram V.

Gl >RD( IN'S

WORK ON

[TING.

CI

EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM

V.

Single-Breasted Frock Coat.

in the

The measures used are the same as in the preceding Diagram

same manner, with the following exceptions, viz.:

inches below the lower waist

'

is

li

ne

It is

iy.

drafted

THE SKIRT.
After obtaining the line T, U, V,

midway between and _\ as in diagram.

The front length of skirt (i to 6)
Square down from \Y and go out

W,

reduce the round by taking out

'_

inch

The

top line of skirt

may

is
1

'2

same

as from

inches from 6 to

7.

the

be entirely straightened, or

depending upon the prevailing style

are cut plain, or with more or less drapery.
to

2. all

to 5.

it

may

Frock Coat

for

be hollowed from

whether they

skirts,

From 3 to 4 is 3 inches. (See note.) In this diagram the spring is increased

inch more than in Diagram IV, which is necessitated by the taking out of the _
'

inch on the top line of skirt

midway between

and

2.

NOTE.
For each inch of difference between waist and
5 inches,

add

Waist
"

to,

seat

measures more or

32, Seat 37, difference

33,

"

39,

34,

"

ys

"
''

is

"

''

inches.
"
,l

From
From
From

less

Example

or deduct from, the space from 3 to 4 of skirt, J^ inch.

3 to 4 will be 3 inches.
4 inches.

will

be

3 to 4 will

be

2-} 4

3 to

'

inches.

than
:

Diagram

VI.

CORDON'S WORK ON

(I

[NG

EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM

VI.

Clerical Single-Breasted Frock Coat.

Proceed in the same manner as in explanation of Diagram
lowing exceptions.

V,

with the

fol-

For this, and for all coats which are to button to the neck, establish the center
of front, which is represented by the line M, 5. 7, and is 2^ inches forward of 4 on
breast line, and 6 on the upper waist line.
This will also be the button line, from
which go out + inch for front edge of left side and + inch additional to X. 6, 8 for
-'

-'

button stand.

Drop the front of neck gourge about

inch below the line extending from L
M, bat when obtainable, apply the neck measures. (See " How to Measure," Clerical
1

at

Coats, etc.)

Diagram

VII.

(,(

W< IRK

IRD( IN'S

IN

CI

T flNG

EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM
iuble-Breasted Frock Coat.

>i

VII.

Follow the instructions

as given in explanation of

Diagram

v,

with the following

exceptions and changes:

From
From
From
From
From

4 to 5

on line B

is

5 to 6

on line

I!

is

6 to

on line

1!

is

6 to

on upper waist line

is 2-, 4

7 to

on upper waist line

is

The button
7

on upper waist

line is

2
'

+ inches.

4 of

an inch.

+ inches.

inches.

2'j inches.

inches hack from

on line B, and

-1

inches hack from

line.

The width of lapel and position

The following rule will apply

ing style.

of button line
in

all

is

governed by the prevail-

cases, viz.:

Place the button line back from the center of front line one-half of the distanceit is

desired that the buttons shall be apart latterly, and go out the

same

distance, pins

24 inch for width of lapel.

The
waist (6),

\V

M,

line

is

'
1

Form
way between

7,

5,

W, which

is

inches forward of the half breast (4) and half

the center of front.

is at

inches below the lower waist

the
1

top

and

line

line.

of skirt as in diagram,

reducing the round

Square down front of skirt

2.

'_>

inch half

to 6.

The front length of skirt,

to 6, is the same as from
to 5.
From 6 to 7 is
inches.
The waist scam, or top line of skirt is subject to change when more fullness or
drapery is required. The top round, as shown in diagram, may be entirely straightened.
or it may be hollowed from
to 2, all depending upon the prevailing style for frock2

'

coat skirts, whether plain or with

more

or less drapery.

4^

Diagram

VIII

G(

WORK ON

(RDON'S

CI

IM,

EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM

VIII.

Dress Coat,
Use the same measures and

gram

IV,

is

on line R

is

on upper waist line

is

8 on upper waist line

is

From
Prom

5 to

6 on line

6 to

From
From

6 to
; to

From X
\V

fellow the instructions given in explanation of Dia-

with the following exceptions, viz

is

'

/2

2? 4 inches.

2%

to point of lapel is
..

inch.

..

+ inches.

inches.

inches below the lower waist

THE

From
to
From 3 to 4
From 2 to 7
From 5 to 6
Sweep from

is

is

is

'

is

'

and from

inch,

2'

+ of the waist
;

5 to 6,

and

line.

SKIRT.
to 8 is 2 inches.

(See note

4 inches.

inches.

2'

3.

inch.

of the breast on the division of square, and

using

inch.

as a center.

Outline as per diagram.

\'<

>TES.

1.) For forms quite small at the waist, the width of the forepart may be reduced
from 2 to 3 + inch at 5 on breast line and at M to give good form, as otherwise the lapel
would have too heavy an appearance.
(

(2.)

'

Being a

low-roll

coat the

inch below the line extending from

front of neck

gonrge

at

is

dropped about

(3.) For a dress coat, the space from 3 to 4 is established at 2' 4 indies forforms
having a seat measure 5 inches greater than the waist. In cases where the difference
is greater or less than as above, increase or decrease the distance from 3 to 4
+ of an
J

inch for each inch of difference.

Diagram

IX.

GORDON'S work ON CUTTING.

EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM

IX.

The Shawl-Collar Dress Coat.

It

is

drafted

the

in

that

the width of lapel

line,

and from

same manner

as in the preceding diagram, with exception

top, and is increased slightly at 7 on breast

neck gourge. To best determine these widths,
fold the pattern on broken line, bringing X and M together, lay collar in position
(which has been cut on sew on edge only then shape for outer edge of lapel to style

to

is

is

cut

reduced at the

011

line with

1.

or fancy.

The

top collar and facing are cut in one piece.

GORDON'S WORK ON CUTTING.

EXPLANATION

DIAGRAM

OF

X.

The Sleeve.
The diagram
coat P, R, 12,

To

and

opposite shows the relation of the sleeve head to

its

balance

in relation to a

arm scye

the

perpendicular line as O,

<

draft the sleeve proceed as follows:

Fold paper lengthwise, thus forming a crease edge, which

broken line on diagram marked

" first crease line.

Open

'

is

represented by the

out the paper, keeping the

hollow of crease underneath, and place the angle of square on the crease edge

1%

lower end of the long arm back

down

of

>.

inches from the crease

line,

at

R, the

and mark up and

the foundation line <).<>.

From R

to

is

From A to B
same as from B to G
From

to

is

+ of

an inch.

of the breast, on the division of square and

'

()

of back of coat

is

Square out from foundation line

minus

arm

scye.

at

A,

B and

is

/2

of the full size of

of full size of

*/
3

'

(The

inch.

C.

'

4 inch.

and extend the breast

line at

across the paper towards X.

From B

to

is

'

and on

to

arm

scye.

Make up

si/e.

Get the separate dimensions of the top and bottom of scye from the
coat.

(See Diagram

seams (which,
G,

"jYz

for a

I.)

For the

top,

36 breast coat,

is

measure from
8 inches),

and

to

P and

to

Lav the

to

bottom, measure from

for the

to

is

the top scye measure and

'

inch.

..

forepart and side-body of coat on the draft of sleeve, the breast lim

ing on the cross-line

at

A, and

R touching the crease line, and form the

C directly above K, and crossing line D,

sleeve-head from D, touching line

from the forepart, down

For the top

as above obtained)

for

draft of tin-

allowing for

inches, allowing for.) seams.

From

side

12,

to

top round of
B,

) inch

R. as illustrated on diagram.

line of undersleeve apply the

by measuring from

R down

measure of bottom scye 17'j inches

on

a line

'

inch above the bottom of

inches, plus
inch
body and up, locating the p >int F where the si/e required 7
seams) intersects the line B D.
Having thus located point F, mark from F to R.

as in diagram.

'

<

CORDON'S WORK ON CUTTING.

Apply the

sleeve length by placing the tape with the figures denoting the

up width of the half back

length (31 U).

From

Also sweep for length to elbow

J to

is

'_>

sweep from

(7) resting at D, then

make-

to J at the required

G, as per measure.

at

the size of bottom of sleeve and ]/2 inch for seams.

(See

Table of Widths).

From

crease line to

taken out

to be

is

yi the size at elbow,

and

under-arm seam on the 2d crease

at the

Outline, as per diagram, D, G,

and

inch for seams and the amount

line.

F, G, leaving

4 inch shoulder at F.

Fold the paper on original crease line and cut through both thicknesses from

Dto

R,

Dto H, and

Opsn out

to J.

pattern,

mark nick

singly on the lines of under sleeve

From A

to

K, and from J

to

across at

F to
L is

Fold pattern on 2d crease line

to L,

G, and
2

R
F

(which

is

inch above A) and cut

to R.

inches.

L, and cut through both thicknesses

taking out ]/2 inch on the double opposite

from

NOTFS.
(1.)

/
x

width

For whole sleeves omit the cut on 2d crease

elbow

at

(2.)

for

line

and add but

'

inch to the

seams.

For sleeves requiring more shaping

at the

elbow

meet extra curvature

to

of the arm, increase the quantity to be taken out on the 2d crease line, adding the
to the

width
(3.)

than
is

is

at

same

For over-erect forms, or such as carry the arms with the hands further back

usual, draft as previously instructed, with the exception that the foundation line

drawn nearer

to the 1st crease line at the

bottom of

such as carry the arms with the hands more

to

sleeve.

For stooping forms, or

the front than

is

usual, increase the

distance between the 1st crease line and the foundation line at bottom of sleeve.

Diagram

XI.

GORDON'S WORK ON

[TING.

C1

EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM
Fat Man's Sack Coat.
Height,

SS,

24*4, 29,

To
for

7>

The formula

13^, iX',, 7
the coat apply the above measures

draft

Diagram

(One button Cutaway.)

Square shoulders.

8.

ft.

7X, 3'K.

12,

Instead of the fish under arms, as in

pocket opening, nothing being taken out

lines of a one-button

When

cutaway sack.

to opposite

seam under arm.

Spread the cut

Cut the

for

'

as follows:

as explained

Diagram

1,

there will be a straight cut to

This diagram gives the out-

at waist line.
is to

button at top button only.

for cutting,

mark down

at

Cut cloth on the

to

and across the pocket opening.

this line

an inch

the front of

and scyc

the back of opening and

the position

mark

shown

in

solid line to pocket opening.

and the broken lines

at

pocket opening must be cut

between the solid and broken lines between front and side

may

be

left for

required.

The
form

in

forepart on the cloth, which will be in

cloth between the solid

out, while that

is

viz.:

cloth

paper down

the diagram by the broken lines.

if

it

lower button, then neck gourge shoulder

pocket apart about

the remainder of the

outlet

laying the pattern on the

forepart from

The

i.

of measures

10%, 40, 42, 45.

the same manner

'

with the following exceptions,

1,

XI.

object in thus spreading the pattern at the pocket opening is to give good

over the stomach, and

it

should also be applied to sack overcoats for corpulent

forms.

NOTK.
For coats having
finished

by

a welt

make

pocket-flaps,

make

the cross-cut at top of flaps, and for those

the cut at bottom of welt.

Diagram

XII.

G< iRDl >N'S

WORK UN

[TING

CI

EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM
Fat Max's
This diagram
1.

(Body Coat)

produced by the following measures:

is

8#

Back Scye Depth

'

3.
l.

5.

6.
7.

8.

9.

Button Cutaway.

inches below same

To 3
To one inch above Natural Waist
To Full Length of Waist

2.

XII.

1.

18^

Length of Skirt
Half Hack Width

3^

Blade
Front Scye
>epth
Center Shoulder

'2

VA
13^

13

From
From
From

i>s

on breast line

5
5

to 5

below

Waist Suppression

'o

From

5.

From

6.

Breast, over the Vest

7.

Waist, over the Vest

42

Seat

45

18.

To

point 3

'

..

inches below

on breast line

to point

.}'

inches

10^

the same point, diagonally to

draft

"J

14.

bel >w

'

7/4

\o%
(Upper Waist line) to center of back at lower waist
Upper Waist line to center of back directly opposite Back
1

>

'

16

o Scye

12.

'

12

the coat proceed in the

same manner

as explained for

Diagram

iy

(applying the above measures except as follows:

As there is no surplus between X and 2 (the X and 2 being at the same point
th :re Is therefore nothing to be taken out between 3 and 4 at side seam.
Take out small V at waist seam near the front, as in diagram.
There being but 3 inches difference between waist and seat measures, the dis1.

'.

tance from 3 to 4 of skirt

See note, page

is

'..

inch less than

for

a proportionate form, or

inches.

24.

NOTE.
will observe that in Diagram [V the X is on the side-body, and in this diaand 2 are at the same point. In all cases where the application of the back
and 2, make X the hack edge of side-body
waist measure brings the X betiveen

You

gram

instead of

2.

4-^

Diagram

XIII.

GORDON'S woKK ON

[TING

CI

EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM

Kill.

Spring and Fall Over-Sack.

From

light-weight goods, for Regular Form, height, 5 feet 8 inches.

The measures
follows

same manner

are taken in the

as

an uuder-sack. and are as

for

7-

'

42,

which take the

_'()'_,

7,

breast, waist

_.

11.

-'

i6'\, 15

'4.

'

S, 36, 32,

...

37,

and seat measures over the under-coat as

measure

All divisions of the square are applied from the outside breast

From A
to

to

in at

'

From A
From

to

to

/2
l

38.

the Natural Waist,

is

inch.

of the breast on division

square.

inch.

measures are applied from the center of hark seam, not from the foun-

All width

dation

%
is

<

the full length required, plus

is

inch, to

...

each of the above points.

at

is

'

inch and form the center hack seam as per diagram

Square across

line.

From
inches, to 4

to

I!

is

From
From
From

B) to

',,

is

2-^

B)

sion of square,

and

R and

at 1,2,

(line

Form

3 is

(line B) to

to 10

+ inch, to

is

the blade, plus

is

Square from

to S.

is

and from

+ inches,

and down

3,
1

at

to

() to 12,

is 2

inch

_.

2.

From

inch.

'

5 to 6 is 2 inches.

to

is

of the breast on the divi-

inches.

and the back scye

12 to to,

observing that the

inch over the measure taken.

(G

is

the nick for back-arm seam, and

for the front nick.

inch above line Bi.

From

line P>) to II (see

by

From J

to

from
is

Sweep from
to 2

Diagram

'

to

is

the front scye depth, plus

'

inch.

M.

to J. finding a
is

K. and draw line J to 2.

of the breast on division of square.

II to

Square out from

From F

1%

inch.

of the breast on division of square, and

From

+ inch.

is

the back shoulder

width of back at

lalf-Back Width, plus

from of scye

line B) to

2 (line

From

the

is

of the breast

'_

Square up

i^

the seat line, and to

Go

the back scye depth, plus

is

addition to

in

3S, 34 '>. 40.

'

center

at

just

below

R, also

sweep up from

of the breast on division of square, and

45

inch.

6.

GORDON'S

Draw

straight line from

this line, with the figures

mark

at

end of

From C
Form

From

14 to 16

Go back from X to 2
waist as may be required.

about

Square down from 4 and

Draw

2)4 inches.

is

Make

to

line ic to 16.

2.

to

and

3 to

X, adding

inches (the

as to the blade measure).

Apply the over-waist measure from C

the

yard stick along

1%

the side seam of back as per diagram.

Apply the back waist measure from C

same

F) and place the

(line

yi inch less than from

is

:o to

denoting the back scye depth resting on line B.

stick, as at 14.

to

WORK ON CUTTING

6.

From

Form

the side

to

(line

D)

seam of

(See notes

X
is

(line

and

to 3

and

to 4.

forepart,

2 to

and

explanation of Diagram

1.)

'line D).

(See note.)

inches.

to

inches, according to the degree of shaping in to

from 10 to

1,

at

bottom, which

is

in line with

See note.

Draw curved

line

from 4 (line B) to 4 (line C), and

for

good form continue on

to 4 (line D).

From

4 to 5 (lines

The button

Mark
S,

C and D)

line is 3 inches

is

2^

inches,

and from

the front and bottom of

arm scye

inches.

is 2

as in diagram, beginning

l
touching at R, crossing the breast line /i
inch forward of

and up

5 to

bach from front edge.

2,

to

inch above

inch below line

Now
make up

apply the arm

scye measure to get the height at P, by

size of the scye as drafted (allowing for

seams) from

first

getting the

past 10, and

Place the tape (with the figures deuoting the size thus far obtained) at R, and

mark

at

for

inches for extra

full

size

forepart

is

34

Diagram

1,

except

to
fish

12.

under the arm

to

pocket mouth }4

line.

inch below line F.

Sleeve, see

Diagram x and explanation, making the same

the hand and elbow than for under coat.

For

for

inch to the center shoulder measure.

inch wide at waist

inch at top, and form the top shoulder of

gourge in the same manner as explained

From O to P is % inch less than from O

Take out a V at M, % by 2 inches, and a

For

to 12.

size.

and neck

you add

make

required (as taken over the vest for under-coat), adding \]/2

Cut out the back, leaving about

that

to 10.

Collar, see

(See Table of Widths.)

Diagram win.
4*

inch larger

at

GORDON'S WORK ON
/w" Whole Back, apply
ting the suppression at
line,

),

CI

fTING

width measures from the straight

all

and on completion of draft cut

seam

off

line,

A F (omit

the center back

F.

sec Diagram xi and explanation.

and Location of Pockets" see Contents.

For Corpulent Forms,

-l

For

Size

For heavy-weight goods

draft

one

size

larger throughout.

NOTE.
The

space from

ing seat measures

scat 37

to

D),

(line

viz., 3

For an overcoat these should be increased

proper seat room.)

The space from

for

forms having a difference of

for

an overcoat.

'

_>

to 2 (line

"

''

"

The
above

for proportionate

forms hav-

to 2 (line

D)

'

4 of

D)

to waist 3
is

'

.-.

and seat

40, to give

then-fore established as

inches

less

than as above, increase or decrease the

an inch, adding

to or

taking from the forepart

at

same amount.

For Waist
"

is

inches between waist and seat measures as taken

For each inch of difference more or

distance from
16 the

indies,

inches greater than waist, as taken for an under coat, as waist 32,

35,

and Seat

(o

37.

"

4i

40,
full size

"

(^difference

5^

inches

4'j

"

from

X
X

to 2 will be 3 inches.

"

to 2

"

"

from

to 2

"2 inches.

T
.-

.|2'j

of seat measure

''

2)4.
is

1,

from

2^

inchef.

not to be applied to the draft otherwise than as

4^

Diagram XIV.

GORDi

WnKk

>N'S

<

i'l

>.\

riNG

EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM
The
From

and forepart

From

to

(1

is 3

which

inches,

is

extending down from

to

of 5 inches, and

'..

placed

be

inches.

inches

is at

forward of

is

apart,

'_

go

of

5,

and

Diagram
For

and

This

diagram.

line C, as in

I)

It is

coat

is

D.

desired in this case

buttoned.

The

line

Therefore go back from this center

4 inch

front of coat.

to

(For buttons

inches and forward

2^

at

is

omitted, and to compensate for the two

side

will give a less

scam

inch at line

\/
2

shapely appearance

at

to

nothing

at

hack waist than as

XIII.

close or

medium-shaped hacks, cut

for center

back on the inner line A, B,

F.

Locate the lower button hole as per

center, to the

style,

and sweep from

button line for position of the lower button.

holes aud buttons.

Outline lapel as per prevailing

For Full Hack Box Coat go out from

line

when the

C and

B,

In this diagram the fish under arms

C,

Diagram

as in explanation of

on lines

hack from center line

seams thus omitted, reduce the forepart

in

obtained as follows:

the center in front.

forward

feet 8 inches.

same manner

the

in

except the portion of forepart which

that the buttons shall be 5 inches apart laterally

line

Over Sack.

Doi ble-Breasted

light-weight material, for Regular Form,

Draft the hack

xiii.

XIV.

extending from

'

inch forward of

to

to Z.

there,

Space up

using
for

as a

remaining

style.

'
1

+ inches,

and cut on a straight

Diagram XVI.

GORDON'S WORK ON

EXP]

ANATION OF DIAGRAM

Shawl-Collar
In this diagram
the Shawl Collar.

The

the line of neck gourge

is

is

XVI.

Over Sack.

D. B.

shown the upper

overcoat
is

CUT'I INC

part of a Double-Breasted Overcoat, with

fully explained for

Diagrams

extended to N, and the collar

is

XIII

and XIV.

In this

cut quite convex on the leaf

edge, and concave on the sew-on edge, to give sufficient spring and allow the collar to

lay smoothly around the neck.

Top

collar

and facing are cut

in

one

piece.

The SrRTorT Overcoat.

Draft in same

manner

as for a Double-Breast

Frock Coat, except that you

crease the lengths and depths above the breast line, and

the

same proportion

goods.

The

/2

inch.

for a

sack overcoat,

Make

the lapel about

/
l

must

in-

of the width measures in

when made from

short measures across the side-body

blade measure.

back

as

all

light or

heavy weight

also be increased the

same

as

inch wider throughout, and set the button line

4^

Diagram XVII.

GORDON'S WORK ON CUTTING

EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM XVII

The Pa di hick Overcoat.
In this diagram

is

"

represented the upper part of the single-breasted

It

is

made with whole back,

It

is

drafted from the foundation

close fitting at

Paddock.'

the waist, with plaits in the side

seams.

in

explanation

Diagram

of

should

be

about

square;

of an inch wider from

lying between

of

'

and

the

line-

xm, except
size

on line C

is

of
I)

waist
to

that

i,

taken

and

taken out

at

otherwise

F,

the

'

'

manner

back from C

of

to

as
i

over the vest on the division of

inch from

_.

the same

in

width

to

the fish under arm.

i.

The

All

quantity

other meas-

urements are applied as heretofore instructed.

Upon completion

of the draft cut off a

seam

(%

inch) from center back

line,

A, F.

An

extra piece for an under back skirt

from the broken

plait

The

at

left

plait at

line,

side

across between

scam

of

upper

is to

be cut on the crease edge of goods

C and D

to

bottom, with

back skirt

is

joined to that of the

right side of under back skirt

is

'
1

+ inch plaits.
left

The

forepart.

joined to that of the right forepart.

FIG

Diagram XVIII.

5.

ON

ui IRK

G< RD< N'S

CI

l\c

EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM

XVIII.

Collars.
The two extremes
ing,

and Figure

the

Figure

concave on the other

tin

to allow

to fall with

it

that in Figure

and

5,

leri<

mostly for a child's collar,

as to allow

collai

presented by Figures 4 ami

5.

Figure

the stand-

flat.

foi

is

which

at

it

il

or military

,il

lie

as

suffii ientl)

ui

the

an

in

There

ne< k.

diffii nil

to

make

no

is

the

t" tin

leaf
tall

first

as to

make

Figure 5 is a
position.
mil convex on the other, so

upright

extrem

cut

around the

ase

would

and is
neck

ollar,

to

[t is

onvex on the -

Figure 4 nor any

the lattei !- ^aud.

si

these extremes this principle is deduced, viz: that the more

om ave a "liar is ul on the
sew uii edge and the n
on the outer edge, tin- greater ill In- tin- spring of the collar and thi
with which it will fall around the neck.
On the contrary, the more convex it is cut on the sew 01
and the more "in ave oil the outer edge, the less will he the spun- and the loser will the outer edge hug
the neck.

From

Figures 1, 2 ami 3 are the intermediate shapes and the ones most generally required.
Each are
with both the stand and the leaf, and are to stand or tall at will,
tn these there is a combination
principles embraced in the two extremes, the stand being that portion lying below the rease edge (whii h
is represented by the broken lines) and the leaf by the portion above.
1

The degree of onca\ itv or onvexit) of the sew mi edge, or of the concavity or convexity of the
outer edge in stand or fall collars is governed by the height or depth at which the coat is intended to
tnd these two extremes are represented b) Figures 2 and 3.
i

Figure

and com ave on

am

which do not require

for low roll coats

is

spring.

convex on the sew-on edge

is

It

outer.

thi

ui directly the opposite of Figure 2,

Figure 3 is foi oats whi< h mi ton to the ne< k, and is
concave on the sew on edge and convex mi the outer. The crease line in Figure 3 extends to the front
end ni ollar, while in Figure 2 it leaves the sew mi edge at the cen
,

It

will

reason of the

low

ut as
oat to button to the in
a collar
figure 2 would not allow the
of spring or shortness of the outer edge. e\< ept b\ raising the leaf.

be seen that

la< k

:<

k,

ft will also be seen that a collar cut as m

Figure 3 would not lay smoothly around the nei k mi
coat b) reason of an ex< ess of spring or length of miter edge.

roll

\
I

Between these two extremi s omes the shape whii h is adapted to the greatest number of requireis
It
ut slightlj convex on both edges, so that th
ments, and to most coats in general use.
ma) stand sufficiently from the nei k tor omfort of the wearer, and at the same tune give enough of spring
nr length to the miter edge to allow it to he smoothly around the neck when the oat Is buttoned at thi
,

or top button,

.is

liagram

This shape must also be used for all coats which are termed soft rolls. /. ,-., to roll either short or
long, for the reason that to button short roll, sufficient length of the outer edge is 1 necessity.
When the
coat is thrown back at the front (low roll) tic
m 1st necessarily lie loosely around the neck.
Therefore for coats with short and soft rolls, cut collar as in figure I.

For medium
for long
For

rolls,

rolls, as

between Figures

lor coats buttoning

and

2.

oats buttoning to the nei

'

k,

as in Figi

nd

edge, to allow the collar to

[n order that the

about an

lie

easily over the shoulder,

ends

of

the

collar

may meet

longer than the front notch, and

beyond the notch.
ini h

For shawl

in

securing

lose
c

ind leaf

ci

leaf only, as m Figure 5,

on the outer, for reason that
nt spring, or length of outer
on to the neck when desired.

neck with stand only, as in Figure

Collars for ulsters should be on. ave on the sew on
,:.
being usually ut mm h wider in the leal than othi
lo the

in

ollar

4,

and with

front when turned down, cut the collar

to the
oat leave the ends loose or open
1

and facing must be cut whole in one piece, and care must be exerspring to the outer edge of the top collar to permit it to cover the

ollars the top collar

cised in giving a sufficient

under collar properly.

amount

of

Make

the lengths of

When

bound, reduce length and width of

all

collars on the

sew-on edge the same as

leaf

each one quarter inch.

i,

1.

M.

Diagram XIX.

GORDON'S WORK ON

CI

IV,

EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM
The

XIX.

Inverness.

simple way of producing this garment is to take an overcoat pattern of the

and from it make the changes as shown in diagram, the broken lines rephave not the
It" yon
resenting the overcoat pattern, and the solid lines the inverness.
size required

pattern

overcoat,

for

first

draft one of size required, as in explanation of

Diagram

xm

or xiv.

Then draw straight

line

overcoat on this line, touching

on separate paper, as from

top and bottom.

H,and

to

inch.
From A to II is the length required, plus
Mark lightly around shoulder and side seam. A, O,
'

..

12,

at

10,

and the bottom about

\%

and remove back.

seam touching the

10 to G.

Place the forepart of overcoat pattern with the top of side

back

place the back of

at

inches forward of G.

Mark around edge of forepart and remove the pattern.

From to L is
inches.
Form side seam from O through io to I., as in diagram.
From P to J is \]4 inches.
From J to I) is the same as the back has been reduced at C.
From breast line to K is the same as from breast- line to 2.
Draw line D to F, keeping % inch back of the front of scve.
The buttons, fly and pockets (except breast pocket) are the same
Make breast pocket as illustrated.
1

'

..

sack.

as

for over

Cut out back and forepart, and proceed to form the cape by placing both in the
mark for side seam of cape from O along the shoulder seam to
D, and by a graceful curve through K. which is
inch below B.

position as drafted, and

'

Form

the front from

to within

Apply the top width of back, A

for

'..

..

inch of button

to () above,

line.

from shoulder point O, and measure

length of cape to F.

Sweep from F, using

as a center.

Place separate paper underneath, and by tracer

of the

The length of cape is taken, as herein

arm to length required, which usually

mark through on

applied, from socket bone

is

outline of cape.

down

in

about an inch above end of sleeve.

front

Gi

'l

DON'S W( iKK ON

MM

EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM
The Inverness, with

XX.

Sleeves.

Proceed as in explanation of Diagram xix, with the following exceptions

E is
From E
',,

of the breast on the division of square and

to

is

That portion
is

added

to the top

For the

sleeve,

measure top scye

the sleeve as heretofore instructed.

sleeve, see

inch above the breast

line.

of the back which has been taken off above the shoulder at X. K.

shoulder of forepart above

and the bottom scye, separately, from

For

inch.

Diagram

x.

to

J.

to P,

G,

at

and

[2 to

G, allowing for two semis,

the increased width of back, and draft

Diagram XXI.

<;<

)RD( IN'S

W'uRK ON

CI

II

ENG

EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM
Three-Quarter Shoulder C

To

from

draft

coat

'

to

I.,

vrk.

pattern lay the back and forepart together in position, as

shown by the broken

gourge

XXI.

lines, and draw straight

and center of front L, J, P. (J is

from

line
2

to C.

Then mark neck

inches forward of

tin-

half breast

H.)

From
From

to

(i to

X
C

is
is

of breast on the division of square, and from

',,

length of cape, pins

Sweep by A from C

Add

If

is

To

it

inches

..

to

is

inch.

inch.

per broken line

and outline bottom of cape C,
I'.
button at front, add i inch for button stand.

to

desired to

draft

'

<

to P, as

<

),

>,

without coat pattern, take the following measures, or use the propor-

tionate measures for size required, as per table.

to be

Length, G to C, short blade, front scye depth and breast as for under coat.
If
worn over under coat, all divisions of tin- breast will be for two sizes larger than

the breast as taken, as for a 36 use the divisions of 38.

Square lines A, B, C.
From A to B is the front scye depth, plus '_. inch.
Sweep from A to
by B.
inch, and from X to C, is
From A to X is
breast on the division of square.
to K is ',, of the breast ion the division) and
From
inches.
1'*

'

(i

'.

Draw

line

1!

'

_.

to F.

Square both ways from line I!. F, at B, towards J and K.

From B to K is the blade measure, plus + inches
From K to II is one-half of 2 inches more than breast measure.
From II to J is 2 A inches. Sweep from J to A, finding center at X, near K.
From B to R is X'_. inches.
From R to S is '4 the waist (and
From
4 inches if worn over the overcoat
'

'

1.

to

is

2? + inches.

Draw curved line from A to L.J, T. towards

From A to I, is 4 of breast on the division of square.
Form neck gourge from G, dropping gradually to L.
Add inch to front line, L, J, T, P, for button stand, if required
I'.

'

to button.

X( )TE.

worn over the under coat add but ' inch to blade measure, nothing
to the trout scye depth, and use the divisions of breast according to measure as taken
for under coat. From K to H will be >< breast, and R to S % waist, as taken for under
If cape is to be

coat.

Diagram XXIi.

(,i

iRDi

iN'.S

Wi IRK

ON

CI

[TING.

DIACxRAM XXII.
Represents a shoulder cape with less drapery than the -^ ca P e
diagram.

Diagram

It

is

produced by

first

drafting cape in either manner, as

preceding

explained for

xxi.

Then draw line from D to O (O is midway between C, P).

of breast on the division of square.
From D to B is
Cut through this line from D to (), and using B as a center,
'

to

overlap the forepart until the

at

shoulder

is

open about

allow the back

inches, as from

at

I) to

Paste the two parts together in this position, and add a seam to each edge of the Y.

63

A.

GORDi 'VS

\M >kk

ON

[TING

ii

EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM

XXIII.

Cape For Overcoat, With Full Shoulder Seams.

method of drafting capes

Tin-

and

plaids, so that the figure of

front

and back,

is

line

and

i> laid

cutting

sweep

such as stripes
of the overcoal

xm

and xiv.

to I\

which forms the center of hack of cape.

even with the crease edge of goods.

desired, plus

'

inch.

Sweep by
to

that

hack and forepart of overcoat together as cut and

on foundation line

From A to B is the length

inch beyond I.
C is
'

figure,
to

Diagrams

drafted as heretofore explained for

draft the cape, first lay the

draw straight
in

decided

may conform

cape

in

illustrated in this diagram.

is

TIr- overcoat

To

goods with

fur

goods

inch forward of C. from

to D,

ami form side seam from C, pa

line B, D, as illustrated.

To draft the front, lay hack and forepart together as before.

Make a mark from the front shoulder point towards K
Kxtend

Go

line of front scye from

forward from P

From

to

is

i%

to If.

add

'

inch for seams

Sweep by

towards F.

mark from

inch more than from

C to
E and

Get the length of hack from

inches, and

from

Form gourge and

at

1).

and apply the same from

() to

Iv and from

to K.

front of cape as illustrated.

I)

and

II.

and reduce bottom of cape from

to fair line, as illustrated.

If

it

gram xin)
If

at II.

() to Iv

F.

F.

Place the two side seams together at

sweep

() to

is

desired

will be the

that the cape button in front, the center of front line at

button line

additional drapery

terminating

is

for

cape t" which add

desired

at nothing- at F.

Dia-

inch for button stand

increase the width of the forepart from

to II

M-

Diagram XXIV.

GORDON'S

ui IRK

ON

II [NO.

CI

EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM XXIV.

Hool).

This diagram represents the upper part (from scat

line-)

of a single-breasted

fly-

front ulster, in broken lines, with the hood in solid lines.

It is

drafted as follows

Place forepart and hack of the overcoat together, as represented in the diagram,
the shoulder seams touching each other

at

>,

II.

Draw foundation line (perpendicular from A).

From A to B is the hack scve depth.
From B to 1) is three-fourths of bach scve depth.
From C to D is one-half of back scve depth.
Square across

From A to E
Square up at

B and

at A,
is

'

C.

of the breast (overcoat) on the division of square.

E-

Measure neck gourge (without any allowances) A, O, M, and apply the same
from

past

until the figures

ing upwards from K. as

Mark
line

line A, O, F,

at

at breast line, until

^observe that the line F,

is

it

intersects

slightly curved).

at

Draw

to G.

Add one
is to

and from F through scve

extending from C, as

straight line

on tape denoting size of neck gourge touch line extend-

at F.

inch in cutting (as per broken line F to G) for a hem, through which

be inserted a drawing tape or ribbon.

Lay the pattern with line D, G, on the crease edge of goods

Sew on a X i cn band to neck of hood, by which the hood is
with holes and buttons, the line A,

>.

F,

of hood

resting on

to avoid seam.

fastened to the coat

the collar seam of coat.

Finish with a silk knot or bow at G.

If

broken
O, M.

hoad

line,

is to

to

be worn with coat buttoned to neck, continue the

M, and change the

line,

A, O, F,

to

line,

G, F, as per

conform with the neck gourge. A,

GORDON'S work ON

CI

riNG

EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM XXV.

The

Priest's Cassock.

This diagram represents what is known as the four-seam cassock, now most in
Those of the High Church party require their choirs to be clad

use by the clergy.

likewise.

An

examination of the diagram will show that it is produced with slight variaupon the same principle as taught in this work, and as fully explained for
Diagrams VI and xni, being a sort of combination of the two. The measure is taken
as for a' clerical frock coat, the length extending to heel, and it is made to button to
tions,

but

neck with standing

back and side blind

To anyone

collar,

close

fitting

at

the back waist, and with large,

full

center

plaits, as illustrated.

familiar with the system herein taught, the diagram will furnish

all

of the information necessary to produce the garment, with a few additional suggestions,
viz.:

Go

in at natural waist

from foundation line

'

inches.

breast on the division, and 2

From K to H is
Draw line 10 to H.
From 10 to 14 is always 43 inches less the back
'

Square across from 14 to 16

to 18 is always 9 inches, and on
From
1

Make
Form
to

back

/2
l

back width

at C,

,;

scye depth.

to 16 is 14 inches.

the

inches.

of waist without allowance for seams

center back seam. A, B, C.

>.

through

16 to F,

and add

inches for plait

skirt.

Form

the side seams of back and forepart as shown, and add 4 inches to each

for plait.

From 3 (seat line) to J is 24 inches, and from J to K is 5 inches.

The buttons are 2 inches apart, and holes to every other button below
Small standing

the waist.

collar.

There are usually no pockets in a cassock, but two openings are left in the side
seams, and through these the hand may get to the side pockets.
Some are made with
a

combination of opening and side pockets

ibr

pockets straight

The

cassock

down on
is

in the plaits,

and others with an opening

the forepart, as illustrated.

usually lined to about

inch below the waist, the skirts being

left free

For a three-seam cassock omit the fish under arms, take off
and carry the side seam of forepart to X at the natural

part at blade

69

'

inch from fore-

waist.

Diagram XXVI.

'

Gi >kl>< >N'S

kk

\V(

(ill

IN

i\(,

EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM XXVI.

Vests arc drafted upon the same principle as coats.
is

upon the outlines of

laid

Sir page

sack coat.

For

In this diagram the vest

from the coat pattern.

draft, separate

-2.

The coat pattern being drafted, the work of drafting the vest may be shortened
by laying forepart and back together (and side-body of a body-coat) as in the diagram,
first having drawn a straight line across the paper as line B, upon which place the coat
draft

Make
i

_'.

[i

mark

P and

i,

and mark around the edge

at C,

Make

a cross-mark at () (front shoulder point

Turn

tip

from A

to C,

to

<

).

to

I.

mark underneath along the button

Diagram or iv) as from 5 to 9.

the paper and

breasted coat of the type of

For

coal

oi

().

line (if a single-

other styles of coat to obtain the front line of a single-breasted vest) go

inches from s to 9 and from
to , except /<>/ corpulent forms, when the size
at breast line will be increased from 4 to 5, as shown by the button line of Diagram xn.

forward

all

which strikes the sweep

Remove
mark

across from

Go up
1.

to

from

mark down from

to J, the

same us A

to C,

and

of hack.

to

1.

line
(

at J,

to

one-fourth of the waist, plus

of the breast, plus

'

to

from
l6 is

Outline from

to T,

and

finish at

J past

6 to

inch.

inch.

to

and V.

11

bottom

in front, as in

diagram.

and leaf

inch, except for vests with stand

).

Outline side seam of forepart from

haw
From

as from

and by pivot O sweep to K (for height of opening, phis

hip length, plus
inch
and to T front length, plus
inch

Go hack from 9
From B to I) is

same distance

the

5 to 9

to 9

Place end of tape

inches

(extending up from 5) just below M.

line

the coat,

collars.

5.

Draw an upward curved line from () to P.

From
of hack to E is '+ of the breast.
From () of front to F is + inch less than from ()
Mark arm hole from F, going forward of arm scye
'

to

Iv

of coat

inch,

and

'

..

inch below, up to E-

From C
From D

to 6 is

past 6 to

of the waist, plus

is

the

same

Outline side seam of back from

Round
buttons.

out the center hack seam

'

..

as from
to 6
J

inches.

past

11

to

V, plus

'

inch.

and \Y.

inch at

B,

mark

pockets, and space for

GORDON'S WORK ON CUTTINO.

The

without stand.
It is cut the same shape as the vest
i. c
Being without stand and crease, the front shoulder is advanced
16.
For collar with stand, crease and leaf, the front shoulder

collar is

flat,

on the sew-on edge.

i

inch

from

to

point will remain at O.

the rest independent of

To draft

Apply back seye depth

Square across

Go

at

in

A
1

B
B
B
2

to

all
*

(line

A)

to

is

to

to

4 to 5

to

is

is

of the breast, and

and

1^

inches.

inch.

measure, plus ]/2 inch.

of the breast on the division of square, plus )4 inch.

\i of the breast.

is

2%

is

line

011

line in

inch.

fs

of the breast on the division of square,

inches*

Square up from line B

From

line A, N.

to C.

of the breast of the division of square.

is

C.

to 2 is the blade
to

mark foundation

to natural waist

and mark the center back seam as per broken

width measures must be applied.

is

and

coat pattern,

tlic

and length

to B,

inch,

diagram, from which

From
From
From
From
From
From
From
From

at

to

at

1,

and

12 is

3,

and down

at

2.

of the breast on the

division

of square,

and

i^4 inches.

Draw line from O to 12.

From O to E is % of the
From 2 to front of scye is
From D to bottom of scye
Apply the

\]4 inches.
is

to J,

From 7 (line C) to
From X to S is y2
From 8 to 9 is 2%
From 9 to 11 is %
From C to 6 is %

using

is

inch.

from

front scye depth

Sweep from

breast on the division of square.

2
l

/4

to

H.

as a center.

of the waist, and

inch.

of the waist.
inches.

the waist, plus

inch.

of the waist, plus

Apply the width of back (A

on line extending up from breast

to

inches.
2
]/
line, H, J, to get point
and draw a straight line from O to

O) from the sweep

line at

3,

$j4 inches below A.

Apply width of back shoulder

front shoulder

to F,

dropping

at

O
1

to E,

last

line,

and mark the

For corpulent forms, the space from 4 to 5 will be increased somewhat. After having located the
extend front line up until it intersects with the sweep line extending up from 5,
below M.

size of waist in front at 9,

just

along this

inch.

72

GORDON'S WORK ON

)utline

arm hole F

Place end of tape at

opening, adding

to
J,

inches; to

TIM..

K.

and using

CI

for front

'

as a center,

length, adding

Outline side seam of forepart from I)

the side seam of back from 1) to 6 and W.

to

1,

sweep
1

to

inch,

and sweep

and

for
to

the

height of

V,adding

line V, as in

inch.

diagram, and

From I) to
is *{ inch more than from 1) to V.
From B to 13 is
4 inches less than from D to W.
Round out center back seam from A to C '4 inch at
from C to 13.
'

inch

Go

out from

()

inch to

[6,

B,

and spring out

and outline front and remainder of

'

vest, as

in

present

at-

diagram.

Cut out the

pattern, leaving that portion

from

()

to

for

the

tached to the forepart.

For a flat collar, place the forepart on a separate piece of paper and mark along
the edge from J to 16 and 5, then remove the forepart, shape the free edge of collar as
in diagram, or to style, and cut off the projection on forepart above O, 16.

The

collar

the front shoulder

will

is
is

represented as a

advanced from

For a vest with

remain at O.

mark

crease

flat collar,

() to 16,

i.

collar (stand

and

For no-collar vests leave the projection O, 16

front line from 16 to 5, as per broken line

for

without stand.

For this reason

inch.

leaf) the

front shoulder point

to J, attached to forepart,
in

diagram.

and

Diagram XXVII.

Diagram XXVIII.

GORDi

IN'S

WORK ON

CI

TING

EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM
This diagram

welt,

manner

illustrates the

same mannner

drafted in

as

of cutting vests for corpulent forms.

A V

Diagram xxvi.

taken out

is

The Cassock
This diagram

illustrates

at the front

and opens

except that

to locate

point

and the

line

to

XXVIII.

drafted

It is

same

It

is

Diagram

as

cl

XXVII,

apply the measures as taken on client (over vest

two measures are not obtainable, refer

to J,

diagram.

Vest.

and shoulder.

length of collar and slope of neck gourge.

in

one of several styles worn by the clergy.

at right side

When

for

cutting under conditions where these

Diagram

to

is

leaf.

DIAGRAM

EXPLANATION OF

and

also represents a rolling collar with stand

It

bottom of lower pocket

at

and the same amount and two seams are added below V, as
It

line

XXVII.

and apply the sweep

i,

M. dropping the front of gourge about

line

from

5,

inch below the

intersection of the two lines.

Cut out the

mark along
to

forepart in the usual

the edge of pattern from

V, along bottom to

This piece

is

Remove

12.

cut from the

manner, place

to 13,

the forepart and

same material

as

it

to F, to

on separate piece of paper and

bottom of scye, along side seam

mark from

12 to

13,

as in diagram.

the vest, for the right side only, and

attached to the hack of the vest, and upon which the buttons are placed.
at
is

right shoulder

seam

will

extend across the

attached to the forepart should be made about

tached to the

opening

back.,

at shoulder

add somewhat

to

collar, hut that part of

'_

seam only.

convenience

in

The

right forepart

buttoning

at

the collar which

inch longer than that which

the one to overlap the other at shoulder seam

is

Small stand

cut .AY from

shoulder to cut off

is

The opening

to

inch

I;.

It

is

at-

collar,

would

from top of

shoulder on the button side of forepart, and placing the buttons the same amount

down.

Diagram XXIX.

GORDON'S WORK on

<

[TING

KXI'LANATION OF DIAGRAM XXIX.

The Double-Breasted

Vest.

Proceed in the same manner as in explanation of Diagram xxvil, except that

the line from

to 9 is

and waist

}\ inches forward of the }/2 breast

and

8,

and

is

at

the center of front.

From 9
To get

to

-^

is

A of the waist, and )l inch.

In the diagram the}- are

are to be placed.
top.

front line, 10, 14, 16, first determine

2

/
l

Therefore go back 4 of each for button

l

how

far apart laterally the buttons

inches at the lower button, and

line,

the

3 at

and forward the same amount, plus

4 inch.

Shape

The
point

is

It

lapel as in diagram, or the prevailing style

collar, in this instance, is

may

be a

flat collar, if

desired, in

forward of O, as in diagram XXVH.

as illustrated
lapel.

with stand and

leaf,

therefore the front

shoulder

at O.

is

preferable, as

it

which case advance shoulder point

For stitched edges and pointing

admits of a closer finish

at the

lapels,

inch

the style

joining of collar and

Diagram XXX.

Diagram XXXI.

CORDON'S WORK ON

Ct

INC.

EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAMS XXX AND XXXI.

These represent two

styles of clerical vests with standing collars, the

toning to neck, and the other at any desired height of opening.

They

first

but-

are drafted as

already explained for Diagram XXVII.

For vests of this class apply the neck and slope of neck gourge measures. (See
explanation of Diagram XXVIII.)

BOUND EDGES.
allowances

All of the

R and

C,

Diagrams

reduce the same

'

I,

IV,

inch.

in

etc.,

this

work

for

button stands (as from

throughout), are

The same

for

stitched

also applies to vests.

edges.

to 6, lines

When

bound,

Diagram XXXII.

GORDON'S WORK ON

CI

[TNG.

EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM
A Vesi System

rm

Divisions \\n

i'n

Appln vtion

oi

XXXII.

Front vnd Bm

hi

Si

Depths.

v\

a simple method for drafting any style of vest, and lias been used by the author
work with very satisfa< tory results when producing proportionate blo< ks, and for custom work as well. I
would as so<m use the one as the other, except that in this you will have the a;
It" cutting a< oat and vest.
which must at times be hanged to a more sloping shoulder in custom cutting.
would draft the vest from the coat pattern.
Foi a vesl only, this system is pei
simple and requires less time to produi e than by the former.
This

is

<

Ml THE FRON

rO DR
Draw perpendicular
I

he)

A to F
the diagram

placed together in

ire

From A
From A
From A
From B

to

is

to

is

to

is

the fronl

is

<'

to

at

From D
From D
From I)

B,

and

is

inches.

is

inches.

is

Square up

at

to

si

from

is

the bat k

is

drafted separately.

in< h.

is

1.

From

II to

is

and

on division, and from

of breast

to

3 inches.

is

at J.

breast on division less

inch.

'.

inch.

inch forward of M for no-collar vest, and for vests with

cutting for collar with stand and li if the front line will run from from

as

their relationship).

ye depth less

breast on division

.'

and down

iu,

show

to

breast on division.

to

breast on division.

to II

to

1-24 nf breast on division of square.

1!

Square out

From L

line

When

collars without stand.

flat

Diagram,

to P, instead of, as in

to P.

Draw upward curved line from M to C.

From M to l" is } breast on division.
Place end of tape at >, and using M as a center, sweep to height of opening, adding
to side length S, adding
inch, and to T, adding t inch.
<

inches, then

For proportionate forms (having a difference of 4 inches between breast and waist), draw a slightly
outward curved line from J. touching the line falling from J at V.
inch of difference between
For each
breast and waist less than 4 inches, increase the width of forepart opposite \V ] of an inch.
1

From

\Y to

is

waist and

Outline front, bottom

not from E.)

Cut paper from

and

inch.

side,

to K. S.

and armhole U

and from

l"

to

K.

(Observe that the side seam

to E.

from

falls

I),

and E, and proceed

TO DRAFT THE BACK.

Square

lines

Apply length
I

mm

13 to

and
side seam

12

l,

of

is 2

at

1,

ol

forepart from 12 to 13.

From

inches.

to

is

the bai k scye depth less

inch.

From

to 4

is
|

on division.

Square out

From
From
From
From
From
plus

and

7.

on division.
on division and
^ breast and 1 inch.

to 2 is I breast
5 is ^ breast

4 to
7

to

to 3

is
is

Draw

inch.

center back line

to 10

inch.

line 3 to 5.

going out inch

at

and

in

inch

at 8.

From

8 to 9

is

waist

inches.

From
From

12 to 10

is

3 to 6

is

\ inches.

breast on division

and J

inch.

Outline as per diagram, and cut out back.

For double-breasted vest establish a (enter of front line which will be \ inch inside of J, P, VV, V,
from which go back half the space you desire the buttons to be pla< ed apart, and forward the same amount
plus f inch.
81

Diagram XXXIII.

GORDON'S WORK ON CU

[NG

EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM

XXXIII.

Tlie following measures are used in this diagram

Outside Seam,
Inside Seam,
T<

Draw
From
From

is

From B
From B
From 4
From 4
is

From
Draw

to

at

A, B,

is

is

From
Draw
square

31.

32.

Seat,

37.

Draft the Forepart

to 4

is

to

is

to 6

is

C and

Knee,
Bottom,
"

19.
18.

A."

to

D.

D.

% of the seat on the division of square, less

% the seat on the division of square.
of the seat on the division of square.
', of the seat on the division of square, less

inch.

.'.

inch.

the distance from P> to 6.

I) to F is the same as B to K.
center line F, E, to 2.

]/2

Square up from

Waist.

straight line as from A to D.

A to D is the outside seam.
I) to I! is the inseam.
2% inches less than half the distance from

Square out

42.

to

and draw

3,

line

to 5.

of the seat on the division of square above 5.

of the waist.
3 to 1 is
to 3, and for forms of this proportion drop
line

',

/2
l

inch at

3,

below

line.

Form curved lines 3 to 7. and 3 to 6.

From 8 to 10 is % of the knee measure, divided
From 11 to 2 is
of the size of bottom, less 3
'_

equally on each side from 9.

inches, divided equally on each

side from F.

Outline outside seam

Hollow up at F
nicks at B, 8 and 10.

'.

1,

B, 8 to 11,

inch,

mark

and inseam from 6 and 7 to

pockets, and cut out the

for

To Draft the Back

"

i<>

and

forepart,

12.

making

BA

Place the forepart on paper or goods and extend the lines out at bottom and
knee, and the center line down at F and up towards J.
Sweep by P> from '_ inch below 1 towards G.
Sweep from 4 past 7 towards L. finding a pivot near inseam at line of knee.
I. is also
From 4 to L is
of the seat on the division of sqaure.
% inch below sweep line out from 4.
From E to J is % the seat on division of square.
From J to K is the seat on division of square.
Draw straight line K to X. and form back seam by hollowing slightly from
to 13, rounding out to L. as in diagram.
Apply the measure for bottom, 1 to 2, and 16 to 17. adding 1 inch for 4 seams.
inch for seams.
Apply the knee measure, S to 10, and 14 to 15, adding
Apply '_ tin- scat measure across forepart from X.and 13 to H, adding 2 inches

%
,',.

(y2

of 37 ='is>_;

= 2o'o

3 to i, and K to G, adding 2 inches for seams, and a

17'...
2
inch Y out of the back.
(^ of 31
15^
Outline back as per diagram, cut out the pattern, making notches at 14. 15, and
yi inch below P.

Apply

y
2

waist

measure

8.3

Diagram] XXXIV.

GORDON'S WORK ON CUTTING.

EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM XXXIV.

In this diagram three features are introduced which arc not apparent in the pre-

ceding diagram,

viz.:

A. Location of center of waist in front

B.

Spring bottoms.

C.

Crooked backs.

for

corpulent forms.

Corpulent Forms.
A.

The

ing from 4 to

center of waist in front must never be located back of the line extend-

3,

but for corpulent forms

it

must be advanced according

to the

degree of

corpulency.

To
less

locate this point

inch in

ys

point back of

back

3,

when

of the waist to

go forward from

except

all cases,

it

will

2,

of the waist on the division of square,

when on small waists, this division would bring the

be at 3.
Having located this point in this manner, go

1.

Spring Bottoms.
B.

Spring bottoms are usually applied

the thigh and leg, as in the diagram, which

Waist seam

to thigh.

13.

is

to trousers

which are cut small through

drafted from the following measures

WORK ON

GORDON'S

CUTTING.

To Draft the Fronts.

Draw

a straight line as from

From A

to

From E

to

Square out

From B
From

4 to 5
T

division, less

is

the inside seam.

Draw

Go
less

Y
%

to

is

to E.

and

division,

to 7 is 73 of the seat

on

to 6 is

/s

of seat on the

to

6.

to

3,

and draw

to G.

to

2.

line 3 to

of the seat on the division above

5.

5.

center of front, which

2 to

is

of the waist on the division,

14,

(Except when on small waists, this division would bring the center of

front back of

3,

when

Having thus

3.

the same as from

forward from

inch.

forward of

measure on the

center line from F, through

',

Draw

and E.

L of the seat on the division, and from 4

is

Square up from 4
is

the distance from

the outside seam.

is

inch.

}4 the distance from

is

+ inch.

From E

at A, B, C,

to E-

the depth for thigh measure, and on to

to 4 is 3^ the seat

the division, less

is

inches less than

T/
2

is 2

C
B

line

it

must remain

at 3.)

located this point, go back

from

to front, raising as

(See page

Form

the curved lines from center front to

8 to 10

Deduct about

1.

3 as the center front is

thrown

for corpulent forms.)

From

is

of the waist to

much above

and

7,

}i the size at knee, divided equally

and center front

on each side from

inches from the size of bottoms, and divide

/
Y

to 6.
9.

of the remainder

equally on each side from F.

Outline outside seam

Round out at bottom

making notches at B, 8 and

B, 8,

1,

and inseam 6 and

1,

inch below F,

mark

7 to

for pockets,

10 and 12.

and cut out the

forepart,

10.

To Draft the

Backs.

Place the fronts on paper or goods and extend lines out at thigh, knee and bot-

tom, and the center line

Sweep by B from
Sweep from

down

at

and up towards

]/2 inch below

J.

towards H.

4 past 7 towards L, finding a center near inseam at line of knee.

From
line out

is

/%

[NG.

of the seat on the division.

also %, inch below sweep

is

4.

From G

Draw
from J

4 to

from

CORDON'S WORK ON CUT!

to J

is

of the seat on the division.

straight line from J to X, and form the hack

rounding out

to 13,

Apply the measure

to L, as in

for bottom,

Apply the knee measure,

Apply thigh measure,

8 to 10

iS to 19

seam by hollowing slightly

diagram.
r

to

and

and

and 20

to 21,

adding

16 to 17.

14 to [5,

adding

adding

inch for scams.

inch.

inch.

(.Sec

page

11, close-

fitting legs.)

Apply
inches.

/2
l

of scat

of 40

(y2
Apply

'.'

measure across the

front from X,

and from

13

to

adding

= 20 + 2 = 22.)

the waist measure from center front to

1,

and

to

H, adding

inch

for seams.

(If a

additional

is

seams

required at waist, add for the

amount taken out by the V, and

Outline as per diagram, cut out the backs, making notches at 14 and
inch below B.

for

two

15,

and

'

Diagram XXXV.

GORDON'S

\\(

ON

iKK

[TING.

CI

EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM XXXV.

This diagram illustrates the broad falls, and is drafted in the same manner as
heretofore described, except that the width of the waistband is added to the backs, as in
Figure B, and an extra piece is required for the fronts, which constitutes the bearers.
and includes the remaining part of the waistband, as in Figure A. To produce the bearers, lay the pattern of the forepart on the paper or goods, and marking .around as represented by the solid lines, add enough to make up for waistband and for buttoning
at the front (yi inch).

The opening

usually from

at sides is

may

be placed at the side seams,

to 8 inches,

Pockets are usually inserted in the

fall

hearer,

and
as

in front 4 to 5 inches.

shown

in the

diagram, but

so desired.

if

Trousers for Bow Legs.

Draw

towards

K Diagram xxxin)

center line from

In

12.

all

to a point

cases square across from the center line

width of foreparts and backs, using the second center

'

to 2 inches

_>

2,

forward of

K, 9, F, but divide the

line as the base.

General Remarks ox Trousers.

From B

backs (Diagrams xxxin and XXXIV) is % inch less than from

B to 8 of fronts. So also is from 15 to L H inch less than from 10 to 7. B and L of
10 to 7 of fronts. This
backs must be stretched up before seaming to equal B to 8,
stretching of the back seams, and a good shrinking at back of thigh, will tend to obvito 14 of

&

ate superfluous goods at that point.

For trousers with

fly fronts,

gram xxxv, hollowed about

1

5.

inch.

It

On

should be cut about

left side

the inside strap

The waistband should

to 4

inches in

is

cut

be cut

shown in Figure C, Diais

more than the fronts. From 7 to
width opposite 4, and about 3^ inches 3 to

the fly should be cut as

inch from

off,

as per broken line at

at

Slightly convex on the sew-on edge towards front,

From

Diagram xxxm.)
inches

2 to

to

is

6.

and I'.i inches at back.

and concave towards the back. (See
Add 1 inch 5 to 6, and 2
of waist.

inches wide

half the size

front,

1.

Cut pocket facings and bearers

at

least

'

_.

inches longer than the opening

desired.

The back straps are cut to make up about 5

inches in length. + inch wide at
If trousers
buckle end, and
+ inches at the other, as in Figure B, Diagram xxxv.
are to be made larger at seat to suit customer, do not change manner of taking measure, but make memorandum "cut
inch large." more or less, as required.
'

89

.>

_>

Diagram XXXVI.

IRDON'S

C,(

>RK

\V(

IN

CI

ITNG

EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM XXXVI.

Knee Pants.
diagram we have

In this

extend from

outside seam

-?<>>,.

5,

bottom

md

ire

drafted from

th

fnseam

length as for trousers 42.

full

The '-knee"

"riding" pants.

viz.:

waist to thigh i;

'.

pants

inches, to kn

as for trousers 32, waisl 31, seat 37, thigh

22,

knee

14.

To
bottom

to

combination of "knee" and

draft the fronts (Figure

A), proceed

as

in

m xxxm,

i'

than the

excepl

rounded about
inch and
F.
full
di' ided equally on each side from
and buttons at the knee, the idi ieam being left open ind
facing cut on fi
1
iflch above the third button.
The backs are drafted as alreadj explained foi Diagram xxxm, excepl thai they are crooked, i. e.,
Tin
the center of back waist is al J as in Figure B.
ollowed
inch, and a facing cut on
side seam same as to fronts.
is

'.

are usually three holes

bottom

.1

to

'

Waistbands are usually cut on, but may be cut separate

turn

up

shape of the leg and

to

so

if

desired.

Cut

the

at

bottoms.

Riding Breeches.
These are but

They

close at ankle.

knee

continuation of the knee pants

from the

are drafted

24, to calf 30, to ankle 38^, full

J7, thigh 22,

knee

15. calf

manner

as the best

bottom

;,

to trai e the

waistband to thigh

t2, inseam as for trousers 32, waist

measure as foi trousei
c).
The full length of outside and inside leg seams are taken

the rise from

getting

of

made

folio

to

Wlun

B.

this

31,

seat

as

have no

ned the)

dete

is

button
1

further

application.

For Riding Bree< hes the side seam is usually left open from calf line down, and a
front and back side seam the length of the opening.
The opening is closed with holes and buttons, the
buttons being ontinucd up above the knee as illustrated.
A band
finish, about an inch in width, is sewed across the bottom, finished with hole and
t

button

>

seam.

side

at

button should be the

This

first

of the

series of

buttons above,

all

being placed

at

equal distances apart.

The Leggings
As shown

in Figure

are sometimes

They have but one seam

worn with Riding Breeches

at

the back, opening at the outside and closing with holes and buttons.

To

draft, proi eed a- follows:

Fold paper, the crease edge of which

From

to 4

is

Square across from

The width
therefore from

^ of

it is

15.I

is

and

line

from

to 4.

4.

bred hes being

of the

to 2

correspond with the

will

the length.

15 at the knee, the leggings

inches, or whatever size

15.I

nm

should be

inch larger

that point,

at

per measure taken; in this

in

inches and allowance for two seams.

From 4 to 3 is same as from to 2.

sh tping in below
Form back seam 2 to
From to A is the same as the size of
1

calf as in

;,

as

t<>

diagram
im

to

S.

From

4 to

I?

is

same

A.
I

[1

ilh

iw

fi

irepart

inch abo\

'

|.

Cut out pattern on the double; open out and cut singly on line A, B; add i\ inches
and ru md th b ittom orners al sub- opening as illustrated.
For attaching the
and a button on back
m at

for button stand,

1'

opposite, or a

placed that the

small leathei
hole will

heel strap

is

the back

to

hed insid

tin-

legging

al

*,

with a button hole

be opposite one of the butl

attached to the legging

at B,

joining on the outside with a buckle.

at

of

breeches

the end. so

Diagram XXXVII.

GORDl

IN'S

Wi iKK

oN

CI

riNG.

EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM XXXYII

Knee Breeches.
These

are drafted from the following measures, viz.:

From A

to

23

'

inches,

to

27^. outside length

inside length as for trousers 32, waist 31, seal 37,

They

are drafted in the

the bottom of foreparts, from

allow for a

/2
l

inch

The bottoms
at the outside

same manner

2 to 4, is

(and seams)

to be

22,

taken out

the

size

at the

as

bottom

as explained for

made half

are finished with a band, to

with hole and button.

knee

for

trousers

.|i'_-,

:_''....

knee pants, except that

of bottom, plus

inch, to

bottom, as illustrated.

make up about

inch in width, to close

WORK ON CUTTING.

GORDON'S

EXPLANATION OF TABLES.
The

following tables of lengths and widths, pp. 95, 97, 98, 99, will be found to be

of great value to the student,

They

are the result of

and of practical experience

They may be
him

relied

and the more advanced cutter as

many

human

form,

in their application.

upon

as being such as,

produce perfectly-proportioned garments for

to

well.

years' study of the proportions of the

when
all

correctly applied, will enable

ages and

They are also

made for all forms

sizes.

the basis from which are established the changes required to be

other than proportionate.

They may be used by those who

are

engaged

in

any branch of

children, youths or men.

the production of clothing or patterns for

cutting, or in

In this work,

however, reference will only be made to their use by students and cutters in the earlier

stage of their experience.

thorough comprehension of the principles involved will

the better qualify the advanced cutter for the duties connected with pattern cutting for
the wholesale trade.

The student
coat,

we

desires to

He

will refer first to the

figures until he

comes

is

feet in height.

back scye depth

9,

are the proportionate measures for

''

a sack

Tabic of Lengths" and follow along the top line of

column headed

to the

Directly under 40

should be 6

know what

40 breast measure.

will say, of

feet,

40.

which denotes that a proportionate form of 40 breast

In which case the next figure underneath will denote the

the next to the natural waist iS, the next to the seat line 26.

will establish the length as

much below

row as 29) as the prevailing style

may

the bottom of seat (which

is

He

given in the next

require, say to 30^2 inches.

Following down the column he will find that the front scye depth

is

13^, the

center shoulder 18^, sleeve 33/4-

Referring to the " Tabic of Widths]' to the column under 40 breast, he will find
that the

arm scye

waist suppression)
In this

17^, the

is

9,

back width 7^, blade

manner

the measures

may

to

him from

cutter

is

sometimes required

coats,
to cut

vest or trousers.

from a few simple measures sent

a distance, and generally the most important are omitted, or

wholly unreliable.
ability to

waist 37, back waist (or

be ascertained by which he can draft for a

proportionate form any style or size of garment

The custom

12,

seat 42, etc.

Without a knowledge of proportions he would have

meet such requirements.

He must have

helpless.
94

if

given are

to plead in-

the form to measure, otherwise he

is

GORDON'S Work ON

CI

[NG.

CORDON'S

WORK ON CUTTING.

Extensive businesses are being conducted which are exclusively confined to the

making

of custom clothing where the measures are sent in by the buyers or by selling

agents of but very

little

and often of no experience in taking measures.

Experi-

ence has demonstrated that a business of this character can be carried on with a smaller
percentage of misfits, and at less cost for alterations, than under the conditions which
usually govern in custom cutting.

The
upon

by which the cutter can meet such requirements

manner the most satisfactory to all the parties concerned, the

tables furnish the data

his ability, in a

height, breast, waist and seat measures being given, also

and any noticeable

They

peculiarities of the

will also furnish a basis

form pointed

length and inseain,

sleeve

out.

from which he can grade proportionate sets of

blocks to be used in custom cutting, which he will find to be of great service, and
a daily necessity.

must be clearly understood that the lengths and widths, as laid down in
by which is meant that the form has de-

It

the tables, are for proportionate forms,

veloped in height and width proportionatelyDisproportionate forms are those where the development in height

is

greater

or less than in width, as for example, 40 breast and 5 feet 7 inches in height.
a one is 5 inches

and 6

feet in

under the height

for a proportionate

40

height illustrates the other extreme, being

breast.
5

Such

form of 35 breast

inches over the height for a

proportionate 35 breast.

The measures given

allowance

therefore

in the tables are for the sizes, lengths

must be made

in

drafting

for

and widths made up,

seams and

ease, as heretofore

instructed.

To determine what changes

portionate forms, see Contents,

glance at the

left

"

shall be

made

to

hand marginal column

the tables are applicable, which

meet the requirements of dispro-

Disproportionate Forms."

is

will suggest other uses to

not necessary to further allude to now.

which

GORDON'S WORK ON

Cl'l

MM,

GORDON'S WORK ON CUTTING.

GORDON'S WORK ON CU

flNG.

GORDON'S

WORK ON CUTTING.

DISPROPORTIONATE FORMS.
Under

this

head

is

classed all such as,

first,

where the height

greater or less

is

than the standard of height for anv given breast, as given in the Table of Lengths,

and second, where the widths

at blade, waist or seat are greater or less

Stouts, Short-Stouts

For example,

than as given in

These may be

the Table of Widths appropriate to any given breast.

Longs,

called

and Fats, Erect and Stooping.

a form of

40 breast and waist

feet

inches in height, being 5

inches under the height for a proportionate form (see Table of Lengths), and 3 inches
larger at the waist (see Table of Widths) would be classed as a Short-Stout.

One

35 breast and 6 feet in height, would be classed as a Long, being

over the height appropriate for

To
respect,

335

disproportionate forms

inches

breast of proportionate or regular form.

is

also added all those

who

differ materially in

any

whether of posture (or carriage) or slope of shoulder, from the standard

for

proportionate forms.

In custom cutting the measurement of the form will indicate what

lengths and widths of the form, and of the parts thereof, to be

intended only to illustrate what

to a

is

fitted.

meant by a disproportionate form

This

are
article

the
is

in contradistinction

regular form as given in the tables

The method

of

simple measures which

head of

"

procedure,

may

when

the cutter

is

called

upon

to cut

from a few

be sent to him from a distance, will be pointed out under

Block Patterns, and Hoiv

to

Use Them?'

GORDON'S WORK

fTING

CI

)N

BLOCK PATTERNS.
The

use of block patterns was

dealt exclusively in the

at first

thought

derived from an intelligent use of well-graded and

who is engaged wholly

of

The advantages

proportioned block patterns

in custom cutting, are fast becoming appreciated.

demands which

are the

such houses as

to be confined to

manufacture of ready-made garments.

made upon very many

are frequently

work which must be gotten through

In

to be
to

fact,

as regards the

one

such

quantity

with, that they are almost an indispensable

necessity.
It

has often been observed that the same garment will

equally as well as the one

greatly strengthened

By

good block

tions,

is

and which,

what

meant one which

are termed

The

is

is

size

Now,

proportionate

graceful in
is

is

it

now acquired

experienced

in

fit

many

very

persons

This observation

is

use of good block patterns.

outlines, correct in

its

adapted

to the

its

propor-

average of forms

largesl

proportion come within the range

large

as a

shapes,

in the

only

waste of effort and time to

each one separatelv, as he presents himself

student has

garment, and

was originally intended.

it

lengths and widths,

in its

draft a pattern for

whom

when one has had an experience

and shapes of any given

of

for

to

the cutter.

knowledge of the proportions of

measuring the forms

to

lie

fitted.

a proportionate

Hence

comparison

of the measures taken with those established for the average or proportionate figure,
will at

once reveal wherein the two

sary to be made.

much

time

and indicate what changes,

slight,

when making

Grades should be made

Coats, Fall and

for the

hurried draft,
are radical,

custom tailoring

principal styles, such as Sacks. Cutaways,

Winter Overcoats,

etc.

(one

bodies being sufficient for the several styles of fronts).

for trousers.

a special draft.

Sets of regulars will be sufficient to meet the requirements of

F rocks, Dress

any. are neces-

made

In the few exceptional cases where the changes to be

would advise

business.

if

and thus by the use of the block

saved, and mistakes, which often creep in

is

are avoided.

differ,

These changes are often but

set

of sleeves, backs and

Also make grades

for vests

side-

and

Diagram XXXVIII.

GORDON'S WORK ON

CI

flNG

HOW TO PRODUCE BLOCK

For Custom Work.

a.

and Widths the proportionate measures

Select from the tables of Lengths

a

36 breast sack coat.

8#,
Also
9,

24^, 29^,

for

is,

for

i/.:

17.

Draft
for

PATTERNS,

2o#, 31^,

7,

i:\,

ii,

16",.

15^, 7^4,

36,

32,

37-

40,

37,

42.

breast, which arc as follows:

1
1

25H, 3'#> 7#,

22,

r,

13^,

12,

..,

iS' 4

'
.

9,

separate pattern for each coat as instructed in the preceding explanations

sack coats exercising care that they are accurately drafted, and that the outlines

are in conformity with the prevailing styles.

Take

separate paper

on breast

line

line,

good quality and outline the two drafts upon

ot

line on

and blade

blade line, as

shown

in

it.

breast

Diagram XXXVIII,

also

sleeves and collar.

Make
first

cross lines, as represented by the references

by making

pattern, also the

a light

for

Mark

at

same distance

these spaces equally.

and buttons

mark

line

required.

size

marked

to

will

shown.

and outside the

40,

then subdividing

give you the outlines, location of pockets

42 breast.

Remove

42.

the grade, take off the patterns by beginning with the

Lay grade on separate sheet and prick through

Then

and cut out the pattern.

for

marking the outlines from prick mark

each cross-

prick off the 41. using the 42 already cut as a guide

to prick

until all the sizes required are taken off

The grade may

at

the grade, and outline carefully from prick to prick for the

42,

manner

off as

the sizes at each crossdine as shown.

Having thus completed

largest

inside of the 36

These divisions

each size from

"A," and space

each cross-line hall way between the outlines of each

mark

and the

be enlarged by drafting a

of the 41. and proceed in this

set is

32 or a 4}.

completed.

and adding

to the grade,

which, when spaced, will give sizes from 30 to 46.

For any
There

style of coat proceed in the

are other

poses this method

will,

methods of grading,

same manner.
as

from one pattern, but

for

present pur-

we think, be the more readily comprehended by the student.

4r1

Diagram XXXIX.

GORDON'S

Proceed
to

be deepened

To

shoulder

inch,

in

and

ing will illustrate the

for Country Orders.

custom work, except that the arm

as for

the blocks

in

the tables,
to

for

viz., to

arm scye

first

and back scye depths

front

inch.

9 A,
In

18,

25^, 31',.

18,

35#. -'-

7
7

Sec Diagram

22,

33^,

12,

22

33#i

'-

same

characteristics

custom work, make these additions

being the measures

S/S

scy<

sufficient depth to be

proportionate depth of scye, but to the extra sloping

of the

custom work you have customer

to

'

to the

inch, to center

XL, Figure

tor a set of

the second those for stock work and country orders

9,

must be of

increase the depth of scye and maintain the

shape and slope as

measures as giveu

["TING.

CI

the reason that they

for

men

to

shoulders as well.
of

same manner

inch,

adapted not only

Work and

For Stock

b.

in the

ON

w< )RK

The

I.

follow-

blocks for custom work, and

i5' 2)

i8#,

17%,

9,

4o,

37,

42-

14,

>">'-

|S, 4-

9.

40.

37-

42.

measure, for this reason the blocks are

cut for proportionate depth of scye, which can be lessened or increased as each case

may

demand.

One

set

of blocks can be

country orders) by adding

ing off at the bottom, each

produce the same result.

I),

made

to the top of
'

The

and the top round raised

'

inch, as

to

answer

for

both custom work and stock (or

back, front shoulder and neck gourge, and tak-

shown

in

Diagram XL, Figure

top sleeve must, however, be increased

inch.

1.

This

inch from

will

to

Diagram XL.

W >RK

G< iRDi IN'S

HOW TO

[TING.

USE BLOCK PATTERNS,

For Custom Work.

a.

The

IN

<

value of block patterns

greatly diminished from the

is

too often

that

fact

persons wholly inexperienced in proportions, and in the method by which they arc produced, are entrusted with their manipulation.

be

fitted

and the form

If the patterns are good,

comes within the range of a proportionate

figure,

they

experience but

will

to

little

difficulty.

in

/>'///,

form,

ate

changing a proportionate pattern

of the

is

it

first

to the

requirements of a disproportion-

importance that the cutter shall know what are the

lengths and widths of the pattern he

using,

is

how the pattern

what are the lengths and widths of the parts of the form

you have

[f

carefully followed the

have the means of determining the

ducing

by

The

sets of proportionate blocks.

whom you may

great divergency from that herein taught.

at

taken of customer are as follows

,

6,

8
'

36,

Knowing what

7,

the

to

produce a frock coat, and the measures

3 %, 1 1 %, 1 2, i6#,
5}4, 8, 36, S3, 38.
measurements are from which the 36 block
1

produced

is

convenience you have previously marked the same on each block

for

comparison of the two

points;, a

longer, the blade

to

is

will

be increased

the back waist increased

illustrated in

you

and of pro-

disproportions in the form of the person for

For example, you are called upon

to,

be required to produce a pattern can only be definitelv ascertained

system of measurements not

to be fittted.

instructions in the order herein given,

important matter just alluded

first

s<

produced, and also

is

'

Diagram XL, Figure

solid lines the pattern as

the scye forward

show

that the length of waist

inch,

the front scye depth shortened

and the

4 inch,

changed

2,

full size

of waist

is to

By moving

inch to get the increased measurement of blade, von

'

inch,

'

the dotted lines representing the block, and the

meet the requirements of customer.

to

% inch

be

These change

inch.

and

appropriate

at

have

in-

creased the waist suppression the same amount, and to the measure of customer at

To maintain

the size at breast always

that

point.

sidr

seam before making changes

ways

move the pattern forward

change made

in size of blade

in blade,

or back

block,

'

inch

or H,

made

2, 5

of

must
in

be

Diagram

taken

IV.

points thus obtained, and

mark

first

off

at

upon the breast

line

Remember
full

size

customer

for the

to

P.

al-

any

to be

or

down when
Diagram

3 (of

changes

and back shoulder points of the block

mark from

that

arm scye
same as

of

is

In moving the block up

P.
move on the blade line H, 2,

Having established the points

front

along front edge and

changing the position of scye

this case the scye of

in

the lengths, always

at shoulder, place the

in

has increased or decreased the

and back waist suppression, and as

making changes

and

at

the

to be

new

WORK ON CUTTING.

GORDON'S

The neck gourge

depth

is

increased

as that of customer,
skirt

Add

added

the

to

to blade,

have changed the

to

raised or lowered in the

Whenever

same degree that the

the length to natural waist

is

front scye

materially

decreased, apply the waist measure of customer at proper position on

or

The amount

pattern.

is

is

increased or decreased.

of difference between waist and seat of block being the

viz.,

width

inches, there will be no change

under sleeve

of

The length
seam

the length of back skirt, and the waist

side-body, as from

to

and

same

spring line of

the

under arm seam the same as

at top of

the same as you

of front skirt

must be adjusted

and decrease the upper sleeve head from

size of the top scye.

in

to

and

of skirt to the size of forepart

to T.

Measure neck gourge A, O, M, and make seam edge

of collar

the

same

length, without allowances.

changes

All

suppression

in waist

back waist

to

be

made by adding

line,

as

the

to,

or taking

measure taken

for

will determine.

The
its

are

upper waist

from, the space between 3 and 4 on

position

relation of the front shoulder point

forward from

line

2,

(O) with the blade (2) as

regards

H, must not be changed from that of the block,

who carry the head

may be advanced from

except for those

quite forward, or the reverse, quite erect.

the former

it

to }i inch,

and

for the latter

it

may

For

be placed

the same degree back, according to the degree of difference from the normal form.

For

the former the front scye depth measure will be shorter and the back scye depth longer

than

for the

normal form, and

for the latter the

front depth

measure

will be longer

and the back depth shorter.

Always
size of scye at

P and neck gourge.

b.

When
seam

For Country Orders.

cutting from measures taken by inexperienced parties,

you have correct height,

side

arm scye first as per measure taken, point O

making the required changes at top shoulder, full

locate the position of the

following in the same relation, before

breast, waist

and

it is

seat measures, sleeve length,

requisite that

inseam and out-

for trousers

Never be mislead by any short measures, or attempted description of form which

may come from such

a source, but adhei-e to the proportionate block, adjusting the

lengths of waist and skirt, sleeve, size of waist,

When,

after suitable instructions, the

etc., to

the measure sent.

measures and

descriptions (particularly

the descriptions) can be relied upon, such as head extra forward, blades extra
or the reverse, shoulders high, regular or extra sloping,

waist extra

full,

venture to

make

full,

back

you can then

the necessary changes, but otherwise adhere to the general principle

CORDON'S WORK
garment with

that a well-proportioned
is

the one that

best adapted for

is

sufficient scye

work of

natural waist, seat

for 67

inches

The

in

shoulder

figure

for

for

an extra sloping shoulder,

inches and

is

not in proportion to

p breast),

the lengths to the

be shortened to the lengths given in the column

height.

is

as

back scye depth, front scye depth and center shoulder

for

to

will

re-

column of 40 breast, provided that the pitch or slope of the

As a general
be the same as for a normal or proportionate figure
the

in

however, when the figure

rule,

depth

this character.

5 feet 7

line, sleeve, etc., will

lengths

main the same

top

(as

flNG

Short-Stouts.

Pi )R

the breast measure

lengths for forms where the height

establishing the

In

CI

<)N

very

is

much under

the height proportionate to the

breast measure, the shoulders will also be less sloping, and in such eases the back and

from %.

front scye depths should be lessened

much

as

Do

more.

not

make

this

an inch, and the center shoulder half

/2
l

to

change, however, unless satisfied that customer has

high, square shoulders.

same

All widths at the breast line will be the

The widths at waist line

The back waist measure
for the

waist of 9

io

..,

against 9

as

as lor regulars.

according

to the

measure.

be increased to the proportion given

a

table

in

40 breast and 39 waist will carry aback

37 waist, and a 41 waist will carry a back waist of

for a

(See Table of Widths.

will also

For example,

of waist used.

size

will be increased

Fur Longs.
In establishing the lengths of
proportion

of height

to breast

'"

Longs," where the height

measure (as

for a figure

breast), the lengths to the natural waist, seat line, etc,

given in the column for 72 inches in height.

depths will remain the same as

slope of the top shoulder
is

quite

common, however,

is

in the

to he the

in

column

same

72

must be increased

The lengths
for

greater than the

i^

inches in height and 36

for

to the

lengths

back and front scye

36 breast, provided that the pitch

as for a

normal or proportionate

cases of this kind, that the slope of shoulder

figure.
is

or
It

greater

than for a proportionate figure, when the lengths of back and front scye depths must
hz increased from
not

make

this

to

change

'..

an inch, and the center shoulder half as

however,

unless satisfied

much more

that customer has

extra

Do

slo

shoulders.
All widths at the breast line will be the

The back

same

as for regulars.

waist suppression and size of waist will be

measure of waist furnished.

made

to

conform

to

the

GORDON'S

WORK ON CUTTING.

TRYING
much

ON.

old, and has but little to do

on a necessity is unworthy of your consideration. It does not follow that without a try on all changes are avoided. Neither are
they avoided by trying on.
Both cutter and customer can better judge of the effect and necessary changes

Avoid

as

it

with the new.

as possible.

It

Any system which makes

belongs to the

a try

from the finished garment than from a mere baste up.

If you are a progressive cutter, and are careful in taking your measures, and in
applying them to the draft, the changes will be few and of no material importance. If
you cannot reach such a degree of proficiency after a reasonable amount of application
of the principles herein taught, seek some other profession.
Whenever, for sufficient reasons, a try on is desired, in addition to the usual outHave the round of
lets, leave outlets also at front of forepart and full length of coat.
front worked back over the breast, and that of the skirt at plait edge straightened and
worked forward over the hips. Baste in skirt pockets. Have all seams close-basted

and pressed. Baste canvas and build the shoulders as may be required. Pad and baste
under collar, and baste in both sleeves.
First (before pinning the coat at front to hold it up to the form) adjust the balance or lengths of front and back scye depths and the waist suppression so that the
coat will conform to the form of customer and not sag off at the back waist. Then confine coat at front, make a mark in front where the edge of left forepart laps on to the
right, adjust lengths of coat and of sleeves, spring of skirt, and any other changes

which may be

required.

ALTERATIONS.
It is

not our purpose to enter fully

upon the

difficulties

which have too long

at-

tended the career of very many, nor to point out the various remedies to be applied.
Space will not permit, nor does the occasion justify. You should be so experienced

and competent in your calling that but few will be required, and of that degree of prowhen, for example, the scye seems tight, coat wrinkles at front of scye,
draws over the shoulder and is full at round of side-body, instead of cutting out the scye,
taking a slice off the outer shoulder point or round of side-body, you will know at once

ficiency that

that the fault

is

not with the cutting, but

or,

it is

a bad case of tight linings, crooked fac-

more comprehensively, of bad workmanship.

Many a well-cnt garment has been killed because, in attempting to remedy apparent faults, the alteration was made from the outside rather than from the inside.
If the garment is to a marked degree different from what it should be at any point,
If satisfied then that
it would be well to remeasure customer and examine your draft.
there has been no mistake on your part, look for tight linings, crooked facings, or other
evidences of bad workmanship, and endeavor to know the cause of the difficulty. Never
presume that the fault is in the cutting as a matter of course, and at once begin to cut
out at one place, and off at another, until first satisfied that there is not some cause for
the difficulty for which you are not directly responsible.
First examine the inside and
the workmanship generally, then you can better determine what the changes shall be.
ings, or shoulder canvas

GORDON'S WORK ON

CI

[TING

GENERAL NOTES AND CAUTIONSAll of the allowances

(i.)

B,

Diagram

which are

iv,

to be

The

(2.)

viz.,

make up and button

for

..

bound, reduce front edge and leaf of collar

line

L,,

stands (as from

in all the

diagrams

is

merely

'

+ inch.

from which

a basis

the pitch of neck gourge, which, as a general rule, will be on this

line.

short rolls raise the front of gourge sufficiently above the line at

the desired effect

to

and notch formed by the joining of

lapel

l
drop the front of gourge about /z
inch below the line

lar,

I,.

5 to 6, line

For coats and vests

inches) are for stitched or felled edges.

for

extreme

as

to

produce

so

collar.

For long

This gives

M.

establish

to

But

rolls

a longer col-

brings the notch in better position for a long-roll coat, and necessitates less con-

vexity on the sew-on edge of collar than would otherwise be required.

The

(3.)

may

point 12 in

all

diagrams may be raised

desire a higher shoulder seam.

What

Experience only

you

(4.)

of the different materials

work

you are called

Others work

large.

also silk mixtures.

will give

to

is

added

at

to cutter's taste,
1

will be

taken

according
off at P.

knowledge of the nature and

manipulate.

Some

peculiaritic>

are soft and spongy,

and

up small, particularly the cheaper grades of worsteds,

For the former class of goods, and

closely-woven goods, as

for

are termed cloths, cut well inside of the chalk marks, and for the latter cut well outside.

Always work with well-sharpened chalk.

(5.)

the

maxim.

"

Make

Be precise

(6.)

Begin

(7.)

Familiarize yourself, by careful and repeated readings, with the

this study at the beginning, not at

taking the measures, and of their application

Should

(8.)

difficulties arise (as for

middle or

but
1 11

off

or

know
brief,

'_.

Follow

finish.

manner

of

to the draft.

example, coats run a

or in the breast), do not err by reducing the allowance for

ing

in all matters.

haste slowly."

little full

make up and

in the blades

ease, or

by tak-

inch from your draft at the joining of back and side-body at breast line,

that you are not taking the measures as instructed,

do not depart from the system you are endeavoring

i.

c, close,

to utilize,

snug measures.
nor hastily con-

clude that you can better teach your instructor.

(9.)

make

Place yourself under the instruction of a practical tailor and learn

garment.

See

to

it

that

your bushelman has the qualifications of a

how

to

first-class

workman.
You

may

lack experience at the

commencement of your career, but do not have

With thoughtfulness, care and patience you

about you an inexperienced bushelman.

can soon acquire a knowledge
useful profession.

of,

and

fill

your appropriate place

in,

an honorable and

GORDON'S WORK ON

CI

UN''

CONTENTS.

Arm

no

Scye

Alterations

...

Blade

Back Waist Suppression..

Back Scye Depth ...
Box >vercoat.
Bound Edges
Bound Edges

55

79
I(1I

Block Patterns
Block Patterns
Block Patterns

(How

(How
(How

49

<

to

Produce)

to

Produce

io ^

io5
io7

to Use)
Block Patterns
Bushelmau (General Notes and Cautions)

Center of Front
Center of Front
Center of Front
Center of Front

^,

49

Center Shoulder

9
IO

Clerical Coats, etc

2g

Clerical Coats, etc

Collars

61

Capes
Capes
Capes

63
65
7

Double-Breasted Sack Coat

Double-Breasted Frock Coat

Double-Breasted
Dress Coat

Dress Coat

)ver

Disproportionate

Sack

Shawl Collar

Disproportionate

}|

....96

Forms
Forms

Explanation of Tables
Explanation of Tables
From Scye Depth....
Fat Man's Sack Coat
Coat
Fat Man's Walking
General Notes and Cautions

1QO

^
1

...

11

GORDON'S

WORK ON

CUTTING.
PAGE.

How

Measure
Half Back Width

to

Hood
High Shoulder Seam General Notes)
(

9
67
(3)

Inverness

57

Inverness (with Sleeves

59

Knee Pants
Knee Breeches

91

Location and Size of Pockets

25

Leggings

93

Preface

Neck Gourge
Paddock Overcoat
Priest's Cassock
Pitch of

Proportionate

General Notes) (2)

53

69

Forms

96

Riding Breeches
Shawl-Collar Sack Coat
Shawl-Collar Over Sack
Surtout Overcoat
Single-Breasted Sack Coat
Single- Breasted Frock Coat

91
19
51
5

13

27

Sleeves

Sleeves

37

Single-Breasted Over Sack

Single-Breasted Over Sack

45
(

fromheavy goods)

47

Three-Button Cutaway Frock

21

Trousers, Regular, Straight Backs

83

Trousers, Corpulent
Trousers, Spring Bottoms, Crooked Backs

85

Trousers, Broad Falls

Trousers,

Bow Legs

85
89
89

of Lengths

95

Lengths
of Widths
of Widths
Trying On

97
9

Table
Table
Table
Table

of

99

no

Vest, Single-Breasted, Notch Collar

72

Vest, from Coat Pattern

71

Vest, Corpulent. Roll Collar

75

Vest, Cassock

75

Vest, Double-Breasted

Vest, Clerical, Standing Collar

Vest,

Divisional System

79
81