Discover Farm To Table 2016 PDF

Discover
Farm
to
Table
2016
Bringing
Fresh Food
To Your Plate
In these pages, learn
about the many people
and organizations
involved in producing
and preparing local
food and educating
the community.
Use our directory and

map to take a tour
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farmers markets and
restaurants that
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PAGE 2
DISCOVER FARM TO TABLE 2016
education
community
food
farming
plant-based brunch
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PAGE 3
INTRODUCTION
Welcome to Discover Farm to Table

By The Editors and Staff of The Lakeville Journal Company
his is the inaugural

issue of Discover
Farm to Table. It has
been a year in the making.
We began to research and
write it in the summer of
2015, when farm markets,
Contents
What To Do With All That Produce ................... page 5
Millerton CSA Helps the Neediest ..................... page 9
The Challenges of a Farm-to-Table Diner ....... page 13
New Ways To Obtain Raw Milk ......................... page 17
Tri-State Farm-to-Table Directory and Map ... page 18
Where Does Your Lettuce Grow? ...................... page 25
Combining Food and Education ...................... page 29
Teaching Children About Farming ................... page 31
Know Your Baker: The Daily Grind ................. page 34
What It Means To Be Organic .......................... page 36
Forest-to-Table Eating in Spring ...................... page 38
The Lakeville Journal Company, LLC
PO Box 1688, 33 Bissell St., Lakeville, CT 06039
E-mail: editor@lakevillejournal.com
Phone: 860-435-9873 Fax: 860-435-4802
Website: www.tricornernews.com
Janet Manko, Publisher
Darryl Gangloff, Special Sections Editor
Cynthia Hochswender, Editor
Libby H. Hall-Abeel, Advertising Manager
Elizabeth Castrodad, Advertising Coordinator
James Clark, Production Coordinator, Design
Amanda Winans, Derek Van Deusen, Composing
restaurants, bakers and

other Tri-state purveyors
of delicious food and drink
were at their busiest.
Our interviews and the
articles that followed tried
to look at all sides of the
recent return to people
eating local getting to
know the people who grow
and make the foods they
eat and the beverages they
drink.
Our goal was to help
people understand what
really is possible with the
movement that started as
farm to table, and which has
earned so many nicknames
so quickly in this age of
social media.
And thats our ultimate
goal: We want our readers
to know and appreciate
the challenges and benefits
of putting the healthiest,
freshest, tastiest ingredients
in our meals, so that we can
help this movement grow

and blossom like a welltended crop of tomatoes!
We hope youll find this
special issue informative and
enjoyable. We hope youll
keep it out in the kitchen all
summer long, and that youll
use our directory and map
as you shop for meat and
produce, and as you choose
where to go for dinner.
Support your farmers,
support your grocers, and
support the restaurants that
are supporting those farmers
and grocers!
If all goes well,we will be
back again next spring.
Illustrations throughout by Janet Manko

Cover photos by Cynthia Hochswender,
Gabe Lefferts, Lizett Pajuelo, courtesy Maria Lafontan
and courtesy Rock Steady Farm and Flowers.
All material in Discover Farm to Table is copyrighted
and may not be reproduced without the express
permission of the publisher and the writers.
2016, The Lakeville Journal Co., LLC
PAGE 4
TO THE MARKET
What To Do With All That Produce

By Cynthia Hochswender
Thats the
thing with fresh
produce: Its
perishable. You
bought it; you
should use it.
hen customers
leave his farm
market in Sharon,
Charlie Paley has no real way
of knowing what theyll do
with the fresh produce that
hes sold them. He hopes
theyll cook it and eat it and
enjoy it. But he suspects that
some of it might go to waste.
As a farmer, thats a little
distressing. But as a retailer,
he understands that people
arent necessarily coming to
his store just so they can eat
some exquisitely sweet corn,
juicy red heirloom tomatoes,
plump and sweet Hudson
Valley stone fruit.
Sometimes theyre
coming simply to support
his efforts as a farmer and a
retailer.
Sometimes theyre
coming because, honestly,
its fun to shop at Paleys. Its
a very social place. People

come there (in part) to see
their friends and perhaps
spot the occasional movie
star or famous chef.
But mainly, of course,
they come there to buy
lettuce and cucumbers and
garlic and onions.
They come for pies and
bread and coffee. They come
in search of local cheeses
especially the famous
mozzarella.
I get it from Chucks
Dairy, Paley said during
a pre-planting chat in
March. They make the
mozzarella in Brooklyn, but
they get all their dairy from
Pennsylvania.
Its enormously popular
with his customers.
I cant get over how
much mozzarella we sell, he
said.
Paley is fairly certain that
most of the mozzarella ends
up in tomato salads, layered
with fresh herbs. But really,
there is no way to know
what his customers do with
all that delicious food.
So what does Charlie
Paley cook? What are his
own favorite farmstand
foods?
Basically, of course, he
likes everything he sells. Not

all retailers have that luxury;
they have to sell what their
customers want. But pretty
much, if it doesnt pass the
Paley taste test, its not going
on the shelves or in the
coolers.
Much of what he eats,
he eats raw. And much of
what he eats, he eats with his
favorite protein: salmon.
I eat salmon probably
once a week, he said.
Whenever possible, he
gets salmon from the Faroe
Islands, a particularly tasty
farm-raised salmon.
What he eats in winter
In winter, he poaches it.

I make a simple broth,
with just some onion and
bay leaf.
And what does he serve it
with? In winter, as all farm
stand aficionados know,
there arent a lot of options
for fresh local produce. One
Continued on page 6
PAGE 5
produce throughout the year

Continued from page 5
The salmonside-dish menu

options begin to
perk up in May
and June. First
come the sugar
snap peas and
the baby lettuce.
Paley winter favorite: the

speckled-hound squash,
which is shaped like a
turban and has orange flesh
with green splotches on the
outside.
I store them in a cool
spot so theyll last through
the winter. When Im ready
to eat some, Ill roast one and
eat some right away and put
some in the fridge. You can
keep it there for a week. Ill
eat some roasted or mashed,
Ill put some in soup.

Anyone whos cooked
the larger winter squashes
knows there is always a lot
left over.
Winter squash is a big
commitment, Paley said
with a grin. But its a great,
underrated vegetable, and
its really good for you.
Of course there are also
potatoes, onions and the
garlic that lasts through
much of the winter.
Garlic is one of the most
important crops around
here. We grow some, and we
buy some from other farms,
and it cant begin to meet the
demand.
Sometimes he makes
salads, but salads in winter
are a little bit of a bummer.
I hate buying the boxes
of lettuce, he says, and you
can tell by the look on his
face that he really means it.
As soon as you open them,
they begin to rot. Lettuce
isnt meant to be shipped
across the country.
Hed much rather
be eating a handful of
fresh greens from the
incomparable Sky Farm
in Millerton, the Tri-state
regions most revered greens
(see article in this issue,
Page 25). But theres no local
lettuce in winter, even with
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PAGE 6
Garlic is one of the most important crops around here.

We grow some, and we buy some from other farms,
and it cant begin to meet the demand.
the help of a greenhouse;

and sometimes you just
gotta have a salad.
Ill buy lettuce at the
market, he said. But never
boxed lettuce.
The easy way to improve
any lettuce: dressings from
Crazy for Kazu, made in Falls
Village by a former sushi
chef, and sold at a handful of
markets in the area.
That stuff is magic,
Paley said.
Ah, but soon its spring
The salmon-side-dish
menu options begin to perk
up in May and June. First
come the sugar snap peas
and the baby lettuce.
People love sugar snap
peas, Paley said. I think
mostly they just eat them
raw. I sell shelling peas, too,
but I dont think most people
cook them; they just peel
them and eat them raw.
Radishes come up fairly
early, and these days there
are many different kinds to
choose from.
Im a big fan of radishes,
Paley said. And baby

turnips. Theyre good in
a salad, or you can steam
them.
Then come the asparagus
and the young potatoes.
Now the poaching ends,
as the weather gets nicer,
and Paley starts grilling his
salmon outside.
Summertime explosion
The real explosion of side

dishes begins in July: green
beans, summer squash,
carrots, beets, basil and the
other herbs. Theyre all good
with salmon. None of it
requires fussing around in
the kitchen.
Blanching is a great way
to treat any kind of dense
vegetables, Paley suggests.
It works with green beans,
it works with carrots, you
can even do it with potatoes.
Clean them up, drop them
in some boiling water, let
them bob around among the
bubbles for a few minutes
until they just get tender,
then take them out.
Then you can finish them
in any number of interesting
ways.
The green beans, of course,
you can eat crunchy and
barely cooked. Theyre good
plain or buttered or tossed
with olive oil and herbs or just
a squirt of lemon juice with a
drop of olive oil and some salt

and pepper.
Carrots can be cooked in
a little butter and honey and
maple syrup (add smoked
salt for more depth).
Potatoes, well, potatoes
can be blanched and then
cooked in a skillet with
butter and garlic until theyre
toasty brown and crisp on
the outside, tender on the
inside. They can be steamed
quickly and tossed in a
skillet for a couple minutes
with some butter and then
dressed with parsley.
They can all be eaten
nearly raw. They can all be
eaten with dressings.
But they should all be
eaten, and preferably soon
after you buy them.
You should eat fresh
produce right away, Paley
said. Thats the thing with
fresh produce: Its perishable.
You bought it; you should
use it. Especially the
starchier vegetables, like peas
and corn. You want to cook
them right away.
Continued on page 8
PAGE 7
produce throughout the year

By the end of the summer,
salad season really begins,
not so much with lettuce,
which doesnt really like
hot weather, but with the
incredible heirlooms and
other types of tomatoes.
August is the height of
the tomato season, Paley
said. At this point in the
summer, he no longer has
time to cook, because he and
his 10 full-time employees
are working so hard to keep
up with the tomato crop
(especially in a summer like
the one we had in 2015).
Last year, the weather
was just right and everything
was so abundant: corn,
tomatoes, orchard fruit. It
was some of the best Ive
ever seen. Quality. Quantity.
Flavor.
In this season of heavy
harvesting, the salmon is
forgotten for the most part
and Paley, too tired and busy
to cook, begins to eat lots
of tomatoes and mozzarella
and, especially, cucumbers.
PAGE 8
I love cucumbers, he
said. I eat them all day
long.
The small kirby
cucumbers are especially
popular with his customers,
he said.
People pickle them, but
they also eat them plain.
We pick them every day so
they dont get too big. That
keeps them tender, and it
also makes the plant more
productive.
Theyre an excellent snack
for a busy farmer, with lots
of fiber and lots of water.
The corn comes up, too,
in August. Corn is very, very
important. And needless to
say, its a terrific companion
to salmon.
I steam the corn very
quickly, Paley said. You
should just put it in a little
water, not a giant pot. I put
six to eight ears in 2 to 3
inches of cold water, get it
up to a rolling boil and then
shut the heat off and let it sit
for a while.
Corn in the Tri-state
region is a natural marker,
like the beginning of the
maple syrup season in late
winter. Everyone talks about
the heat and the rain and
how theyre going to impact
Illustrations by Janet Manko
the size and flavor of the

corn. Everyone has a favorite
corn source. Everyone
waits for the first local ears
to appear in stores, in the
way wine lovers wait for
the arrival of the beaujolais
nouveau.
But, Paley said, corn
plays second fiddle to the
tomatoes.
People really have a thing
about the tomatoes. Theyre
all about the corn, too, but
when the tomatoes are at
their peak, people are in here
filling up bags with them.
And then, he said winter
comes and its back to
poaching the salmon.
And its back to winter
squashes. Potatoes. Onions.
Garlic. And dreams of next
summer, when the crazy
abundance of local fruits and
vegetables begins again.
This year, Paleys Farm
Market opened in March.
Store hours are 8 a.m. to
6 p.m., seven days a week.
The website is www.
paleysmarket.com.
In this season
of heavy
harvesting,
the salmon is
forgotten for
the most part
and Paley, too
tired and busy
to cook, begins
to eat lots of
tomatoes and
mozzarella.
COMMUNITY FARMING
Millerton CSA Helps the Neediest

By Whitney Joseph
C
Rock Steady
Farm and
Flowers coowner Maggie
Cheney spread
organic compost
on the fields
earlier this year.
ommunity
Supported
Agriculture (CSA)
provides shares of fresh,
nutritious fruits and
vegetables for a lump sum
of money. Its an economical
way to access farm-fresh
food that would likely cost
much, much more in a
supermarket or at a farm
stand.
But not everyone has
Photos courtesy Rock Steady Farm and Flowers
the few hundred dollars it

usually takes to purchase
a share. Some dont even
have the few dollars it would
take to buy small quantities
of fresh produce in a local
market.
Low-income CSAs
Thats why Rock

Steady Farm and Flowers
affiliated with The
Watershed Center on Kaye
Road in Millerton has
worked with Ancramdales
Neighbors Helping
Neighbors to create a CSA
program for those in need
free of charge, thanks to a
fund drive with a set goal of
$12,000.
Its a really exciting
time for us, said Rock
Steady co-owner Angela
DeFelice. Theres been a
huge outpouring of support
for the low-income CSA
program, so were excited
about that. Weve had a
successful fundraising
online, and were close to the
$12,000 I think well get
there.
So, too, does farm coowner Maggie Cheney, who
is also the vegetable manager
at Rock Steady.
Were really close, she
said. That money will go

directly toward the CSA
program; its earmarked, and
tax deductible through The
Watershed Center. Basically,
it allows us to pay at the
wholesale price to produce
vegetables and pack them up
and send them to families
for free.
Working with
The Watershed Center
Rock Steady Farm and

Flowers, which evolved
from Sol Flower Farm, has
been connected with The
Watershed Center for the
past three years. Cheney and
DeFelice have been involved
since the start; they have
another partner, D. Rooney.
Our missions are very
aligned, said Cheney of the
two organizations.
Theyre a fascinating
group of people, said
Watershed Center cofounder Gregg Osofsky.
In addition to being food
justice organizers and
educators, the farm is much
more aligned [with us], and
were really excited for an
ongoing collaboration.
Were excited for the
Continued on page 10
PAGE 9
community farming through CSAs

equation is providing
opportunities for people
to work on the farm. Some
who stay at The Watershed
Center take tours and then
get put to work. Cheney
and her partners supervise
seeding, planting and
harvesting. She said the
added hands are incredibly
helpful.
The focus right now,
though, is on the CSA
program both for lowincome area residents and
for paying CSA participants.
Neighborly help
Two loyal CSA

members,
Florent Lacroix
and Lisette
Lacroix, held
up their
U-PICK bags
at a Saturday
Pick-Up.
PAGE 10
opportunity to bring farming

education more significantly
into our programming
offerings, he added.
Currently, Rock Steady
provides all of the food for
the kitchen staff at The
Watershed Center. It also
provides food for many of
the centers retreats and
seminars.
So, when they have
groups come from all over
the country, theyre tasting
our produce, said Cheney.
Oftentimes, theyre sitting
next to the farmers that grew
that food. Its such a learning
moment, to be able to
connect with someone over
the food in an intimate way.
Thats one piece of it.
Another part of the
The collaboration
with Neighbors Helping
Neighbors, Cheney added,
was modeled on a program
Rock Steady runs with the
North East Community
Center (NECC) in Millerton.
For the last two years,
weve been providing
produce for their food
pantry program, she said.
We serve 70 families in
Millerton, Pine Plains and
Amenia, with Neighbors
Helping Neighbors. We just
donated when we had an
excess of produce; last year
we donated 800 pounds of
food.
One of the things that
came out of our working
relationship last year was
that they have to piece
together leftover produce
from all over the place, and
thats a lot of work, to collect
it, make boxes and bring it

into peoples homes directly.
We simplified the process;
we create a whole diverse
box with the same quality
and quantity we do for our
CSA members.
Neighbors Helping
Neighbors then picks up the
boxes and delivers them to
families in need. It enables
that organization to spend
more time getting necessary
staples for the families it
works with and to focus on
other programs. Also, the
packaged produce is fresher
and lasts longer.
For the last

two years, weve
been providing
produce for
NECCs food
pantry program.
We serve 70
families in
Millerton, Pine
Plains and
Amenia.
Flower Crew member

Hannah Savio looked over
some flowers in 2015.
A broken system
Cheney said the program

is the result of a broken
food system in this country.
She said that the government
really only subsidizes large
farms and those that do
business overseas. Small,
local farms are left to fend
for themselves.
[Government] doesnt
promote small, local fresh
vegetables as an affordable
option, she said. Our
farm is small, [our produce]
is sustainably produced,
non-certified organic. Were
not getting any subsidies

from the government. So,
unfortunately, to cover our
overhead we have to charge
more than larger farms. The
fact is, produce can be grown
next door but is too costly
for people to buy it.
As a farm, we wish we
could lower our prices, but
then wed go under, Cheney
said, adding there are eight
employees total at Rock
Steady. We want to be able
to pay our staff a living wage,
PAGE 11
community farming through CSAs

which is very different than
what many of the larger
farms using migrant workers
do. The whole system is
broken. This is one piece
of the puzzle, and kind of a
Band-aid, but its also a way
to educate the community.
That community, she
added, is diverse with
some able to splurge on food
and others barely able to
scrape by.
I think theres a real
disconnect, Cheney said.
A lot of people dont realize
so many families in our area
are under the poverty level.
Unfortunately, the welfare
system, food pantries and
From left, Rock

Steady coowner Angela
DeFelice,
Carolina Galicia,
co-owner D.
Rooney, Wesley
Nichols and
Laura Hackett
with their
new truck,
which they call
Queenie.
PAGE 12
food stamps dont give a

lot of people fresh produce
options. Its fairly limited.
NECC has done a
wonderful job of making
this whole issue more of a
conversation in Millerton,
but theres still so much
to learn, she added. Our
immediate solution is to give
people food. Thats one piece
of what has to happen on a
global level.
How to help
To donate to the lowincome CSA program, call

Rock Steady at 917-864-6198
or send a check c/o The
Watershed Center, 41 Kaye
Road, Millerton, NY 12546.
Any money raised above
and beyond the $12,000
goal will go into a fund for
next years low-income CSA

program.
To learn more about
buying into the regular CSA
program, call Rock Steady
at the above number or go
to www.rocksteadyfarm.
com. Whole shares cost
$650 for 22 weeks; each
week provides enough
produce to feed a family
of four (roughly 16 pounds
of food). Half shares may
also be purchased, for
$350 for alternating weeks
during that 22-week span.
Interested parties may also
split shares in any way they
choose.
NECC has done

a wonderful
job of making
this whole
issue more of a
conversation in
Millerton, but
theres still so
much to learn.
A version of this article

originally appeared in The
Millerton News on April 14,
2016.
KNOW YOUR DINER
The Challenges of Farm-to-Table

Its like cooking

dinner at home.
As much as one
would like to use
local sources,
there are still
essentials that,
for now at least,
are coming off
a truck from
somewhere.
nyone who has

tried to make lunch,
dinner, breakfast
or anything other than a
snack using only local farm
produce knows its difficult
to do.
Now take the challenges
of making that one small
meal and multiply them
exponentially and you
understand how hard it is
for restaurants to be fully
farm-to-table.
Despite the challenges,
restaurants in this fertile
valley are committed to
doing their best to get
locally grown meats,
veg and fruit onto the
menus (and plates) at
their restaurants. One
such restaurant is the
Mountainside Cafe on
Route 7 in Falls Village.
Veterans of the
Northwest Corner dining
scene remember when this
high-end roadside diner was
a classic greasy spoon. Many
of its customers in summer
were the Appalachian Trail
hikers who stayed overnight
in the tiny cabins on the
property.
In 2002, the
Mountainside Addiction
Treatment Center
purchased the property,

renovated it extensively
and created a program
there that was good for the
community and good for
the centers clients: Patients
in the later phases of their
recovery had the chance to
work at the restaurant. This
gave them a chance to test
out the coping skills theyd
learned at the treatment
center in the stressful world
of food service.
The restaurant was
a success but closed in
November 2008. Some
fairly substantial work
had to be done on the
property, including an
upgrade to the septic
system. All was completed,
the interior of the
restaurant was renovated
and Mountainside Cafe
reopened on Memorial Day
weekend in 2014.
The new head chef,
Charles Dietrich, trained
at the Culinary Institute of
America in Hyde Park, N.Y.,
and has deep roots in the
region. He has cooked at
Allium in Great Barrington
and the Millstone Cafe in
Kent, and was the first chef
at the Kingsley Tavern in
Kent.
Ive been doing farm-totable for about 10 years, he

said during a 2015 interview
following a weekday lunch
shift. During those years he
made connections that have
helped him find sources
for local products for
Mountainside.
Pies, potatoes, pork
From Kent, he maintains

a relationship with Marble
Valley Farms Megan Haney,
who provides vegetables
through the summer
growing season. Veg
also comes from sources
including Farm Girl Farm
in Sheffield, Mass., and
Freunds Farm in East
Canaan (also a source
for pies and tarts made
by master baker Theresa
Freund).
Meat products come
from Nodines in Torrington
and Truelove Farms in
Morris, who provide various
sausages. Most of the meats
come from Becky and Bill
Hurlburt, who provide
among other things the ribeye steaks that are among
the restaurants most
popular dinner entrees.
PAGE 13
challenges of a farm-to-table diner

Mountainside
Cafe in Falls
Village merges
commerce
and stress
management,
all while using
as much local
produce as it can.
Another popular item

with local links: the New
England clambake dinner
with corn from Freunds
Farm, sausage from
Nodines, purple potatoes
from Marble Valley and
clams from the Connecticut
shore.
There is honey from
Stonewall Apiary in
Washington. There is local
maple syrup, and soon there
will be fermented foods
such as sauerkraut and
kimchee from the Isabella
Freedman Jewish Retreat
Center, which is just around
the corner and down the
road.
And yet with all those

sources, and despite
Dietrichs belief that farmto-table isnt so much a
choice as a necessity and an
obligation, the entire menu
is not composed of local
foods.
Farm-to-table is
hard, Dietrich said. Its
also expensive. And in
many ways state health
department rules make it
difficult or impossible for a
food service establishment
to use healthy, homegrown
products.
Take eggs. Sunday
brunch is one of
Mountainsides busiest
meals of the week, and the

Johnny Cash Skillet is one
of its most popular entrees
(at brunch and on weekdays
at breakfast). Even though
there are many local farms
that sell eggs from their
own free-range chickens,
state health department
regulations keep the
restaurant from using them
for their meals.
Same with chicken. Local
Connecticut poultry cant
be used because of health
code laws and a lack of
poultry slaughterhouses.
Its hard to run a diner
without eggs, or chicken,
and those products have
to be sourced from clean
vendors from out of
the area (eggs are from
Nellies Free Range in New
Hampshire, chicken comes
from an Amish farm in
Pennsylvania).
Everyone has favorites
Photo by Cynthia Hochswender
PAGE 14
And its hard to run a

diner and have a menu that
fluctuates wildly depending
on what products are
available.
Especially at lunchtime,
people come in and have
their favorite foods they like
to order, Dietrich said.
The most popular
lunch items, he said, are
the Cuban sandwich, the
avocado sandwich and the
grilled chicken BLT. The
BLT is another challenge
for a farm-to-table chef.
Although Dietrich prefers
to use locally raised pork, he

has found that local bacon
is so expensive he cant
serve it at the restaurant.
It ends up costing about
35 cents a slice, he said, and
he doesnt want to pass that
price along to customers.
Dinner tends to be
the meal where Dietrich
can add seasonal specials
to augment the regular
menu. The grilled rib-eye
steak from Hurlburt farm
in Cornwall is one of the
most popular dinner items,
he said. Also extremely
popular is the pan-seared
duck breast.
Those items will remain

through the winter, but
many of the seasonal
vegetable and fruit items
disappear until spring.
For Dietrich, as a chef,
its a little easier when he
doesnt have to incorporate
local and fresh onto his
menus. But hes deeply
committed to doing it, even
if its hard.
We have to do it, if
we want to survive as a
species, he said. Factory
farms are making people
sick and the cost of fuel,
even though its low now, is
going to rise again.
Fuel costs impact not

only the cost of feed for
the local animals, which
increases the cost of meat.
They also impact the cost
of moving food around by
trucks because even the
most dedicated farm-totable eatery still has to get
deliveries on large trucks
from restaurant suppliers
such as Sysco.
Salt, pepper, sugar, herbs,
all the basics, Dietrich said,
listing some of the items
that come on the truck.
Paper towels. Beans.
Fuel costs
impact not only
the cost of feed
for the local
animals, which
increases the
cost of meat. It
also impacts the
cost of moving
food around by
trucks.
PAGE 15
challenges of a farm-to-table diner

Its like cooking dinner
at home. As much as one
would like to use local
sources, there are still
essentials that, for now at
least, are coming off a truck
from somewhere.
Grow it yourself
Dietrich looks forward

to the day when fewer and
fewer of his supplies will
come from a factory. One
major step in that direction:
Mountainside Treatment
Center in North Canaan is
planning to have its own
vegetable farm, on 5 to 7
acres, with greenhouses.
Like the cafe, it will give
Mountainside patients
a place to work and a
chance to learn about
the meditative aspects of
gardening.
There are many benefits
to doing horticulture
for reducing anxiety
and depression, said
Jason Chartier, who is
Mountainsides director
of food services and its
executive chef.
He and Dietrich have
started a breadmaking
program, where
Mountainside residents
learn to knead bread, which
is then baked and served at
dinners (each baker marks
his or her loaf with his or
her initials).
Teaching patients about
proper nutrition is also
an important part of the
Mountainside program, said
PAGE 16
Anna Hui, a Mountainside

spokesperson.
When patients come
here, their bodies are often
completely depleted,
she said. We want to
teach them about the key
nutrients their bodies need,
and how they can get those
nutrients.
The contents of the
vending machines on the
Mountainside campus have
recently been changed
so that they offer healthy
snacks. One particularly
popular offering was a
trail mix, that is now

being packaged and sold
at the cafe as well as at
The Smithy, a shop in New
Preston.
Dinner service begins
at the Mountainside
Cafe on May 13. For more
information on the menu
and hours, go to www.
mountainside.com/cafe or
call 860-824-7876.
Lakeville Journal on Oct. 15,
2015.
Delicious meals
are made
with care at
Mountainside
Cafe in Falls
Village.
Photo courtesy Mountainside Cafe
HERDSHARE
New Ways To Obtain Raw Milk

egislation was passed

last summer that
allows small-scale
dairy farmers who are not
certified by the state to sell
shares of either a single
goat or cow, or a herd of the
animals.
Connecticut is one of only
a handful of states in the
United States to have such
legislation.
Mary Tracy, a small-scale
goat farmer from Goshen,
is credited with helping to
get the new law passed, with
the help of state Sen. Clark
Chapin (R-30).
Tracy explained details
of the new herdshare law

and how it works to a small
group at the Taghhannuck
Grange in Sharon in
February.
Also there to help
explain the bill was Brigitte
Ruthman, a former Salisbury
resident who now lives
just across the border in
Massachusetts and who
raises her own dairy cows
and sells raw milk.
Ruthman and Tracy said
that its possible the state
Department of Agriculture
(DOA) will try to overturn
the law. The DOA has said it
feels there are enough farms
in the state certified to sell

raw milk (at last count there
were about 18), and that the
herdshare law increases the
danger that someone will
become ill from drinking
small-batch goat or cow
milk.
For now, though, a small
number of small farms are
selling shares of their herds
or of individual goats or
cows. To learn more, contact
Tracy at 860-491-1498.
Lakeville Journal on March 17,
2016.
Some small
farms are
selling shares
of their
herds or of
individual
goats or
cows.
Photo by Patrick L. Sullivan
PAGE 17
FROM THE SOURCE
A Tri-State Farm-to-Table Tour

See Map on Pages 20 and 21
FARMERS MARKETS
Connecticut
North Canaan Open Wednesday

1 evenings, May 25 to Oct. 5, at
the Stadium System Retail Store,
297 Ashley Falls Road. Rain or
shine. To become a vendor,
contact Wendy at Stadium
System at 860-824-4300 or email
stadiumsystemstore@gmail.
com.
Kent Every Saturday on the Kent
2 Green from 9 a.m. to noon.
mid-May to mid-October. Call
860-672-0279 for details.
Cornwall Every Saturday on the Wish
3 House Lawn near the Covered
Bridge starting May 14. Details at
www.cornwallfarmmarket.org.
Norfolk Saturday, May 14, to
4 early October, 10 a.m. to 1
p.m., outside Town Hall, 19
Maple Ave. Details at www.
norfolkfarmersmarket.org.
Winsted Every Friday from 3 to 6
5 p.m. at East End Park. Details at
www.winstedfarmersmarket.org.
New Milford Every Saturday from
6 May to October, 9 a.m. to noon,
on the Green. Details at www.
newmilfordfarmersmarket.com.
PAGE 18
Litchfield Every Saturday at the

7 Center School Parking Lot
starting in May. Details at www.
litchfieldhillsfarmfresh-ct.org.
Torrington Main Street Marketplace
8 will be held in downtown
Torrington on Thursdays,
July 21 to Aug. 18, from 5
to 9 p.m. Details at www.
mainstreetmarketplace.org.
New York
Millerton Outdoor market will be

9 held every Saturday, 9 a.m. to
1 p.m., May 21 to Oct. 29. A
winter market is held indoors.
For location and vendors, go to
www.millertonfarmersmarket.
org.
Amenia Every Saturday, 10 a.m. to 2
10 p.m., in the Amenia Town Hall
parking lot. Details at www.
ameniafarmersmarket.com.
Millbrook Every Saturday, 9 a.m.
11 to 1 p.m., rain or shine in the
municipal parking lot across
from the Bank of Millbrook.
Held Memorial Day through the
end of October. Details at www.
millbrooknyfarmersmarket.com.
Hillsdale Every Saturday, 9 a.m. to
12 1 p.m., starting May 28, at the
Roeliff Jansen Park, 9140 Route
22, across from the Roeliff
Jansen Community Library.
Details at www.hillsdaleny.com.
Hudson Every Saturday, 9 a.m. to 1

13 p.m., through Nov. 19, at the
corner of 6th St. and Columbia.
Rain or shine. Details at www.
hudsonfarmersmarketny.com.
Dover Sundays, June to October,
14 from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. at Boyce
Park in Wingdale. Details
at www.townofdoverny.us/
DoversFarmersMarket.cfm.
Pawling Every Saturday, 9 a.m. to
15 1 p.m., at Charles Coleman
Boulevard from June 18
to Oct. 1. Details at www.
pawlingfarmersmarket.org.
Rhinebeck Every Sunday, 10 a.m.
16 to 2 p.m., in the Rhinebeck
Municipal Parking Lot starting
May 8. Details at www.
rhinebeckfarmersmarket.com.
Massachusetts
Great Barrington Every Saturday, 9

17 a.m. to 1 p.m, May 8 through
the last weekend in October, at
18 Church St. Details at www.
greatbarringtonfarmersmarket.
org.
Sheffield Every Friday, 3 to 6 p.m.,
18 June 3 to Oct. 7, 125 South
Main St. Details www.
sheffieldfarmersmarket.org.
FARMS AND VENDORS

Connecticut
Paleys Farm Market 230 Amenia Road,

19 Sharon. Store hours are 8 a.m. to
6 p.m., seven days a week. 860364-0674; www.paleysmarket.
com.
Ellsworth Hill Orchard and Berry
20 Farm 461 Cornwall Bridge
Road (Route 4), Sharon. Pick
your own fruit. Baked goods,
natural products, corn maze.
Opens in June for pick your own
strawberries. 860-364-0025;
www.ellsworthfarm.com.
Pine Hill Farm Route 361, Sharon. Eggs,

21 honey, candles, soap, bee pollen,
meat, cheese. 860-364-0416.
Whippoorwill Farm 189 Salmon Kill
22 Road, Salisbury. Ground beef,
pork, chicken and eggs. Open
Friday and Saturday, 10 a.m. to
5 p.m., or by request. Details at
www.whippoorwillfarmct.com.
Weatogue Farm 78 Weatogue Road,
23 Salisbury. Plant sale begins May
20. Farm stand open every day,
May to September. 860-4350435; www.weatoguefarm.com.
Freunds Farm Market 324 Norfolk

24 Road/Route 44, North Canaan.
Open daily in spring and
summer, 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. (5 p.m.
on Sundays). 860-824-0650;
www.freundsfarmmarket.com
Lone Silo Farm 33 Sodom Road,
25 North Canaan. Grassfed
beef, pork, maple syrup, eggs,
chicken, produce and more.
Farm stand open Sundays, 1
to 4 p.m. 860-453-4085; www.
lonesilofarmbeef.com.
Willies Honey 9-33 E Main St.,
26 North Canaan.
See Map on page 20, Directory continued on page 22
A Local Dish
The dish is farro and spinach salad
with goat cheese and poached egg,
served with mesclun greens. It was
made at plantin seeds in North
Canaan, Conn.
Sources of Ingredients
Spinach
Ridgway Farm, Cornwall, Conn.
Goat Cheese
Lost Ruby Farm, Norfolk, Conn.
Egg
Longmeadow Farm, Cornwall, Conn.
Mesclun Greens
Equinox Farm, Sheffield, Mass.
Radishes
MX Morningstar Farm, Copake, N.Y.
Photo by Tracy Hayhurst
Farro
Stiegman Farm, Halifax, Pa.
PAGE 19
mapping fresh food
e have compiled
a list of Tristate farmers
markets, farms, vendors and
restaurants to aid you on
your search for the freshest
food possible. The directory
can be found on Pages 18, 19,
22, 23 and 24. The locations
correspond to the numbers
on this map (which, of
course, is not to scale).
Keep this copy of Discover
Farm to Table in your car.
13
55
Stop by your local markets

and eateries. Venture farther
out for a day trip. Explore.
Have fun. Enjoy good food.
Some of the farms listed
sell their goods at stands
or shops, while others
are working farms. We
recommend calling or going
to their website before
stopping by for a visit.
If you come across a
location that is not on our
list, let us know!
40
70
17
69
12
39
56
38
57
48
47
45
16
Mark Stonehill of
Full Circus Farm in
Pine Plains displayed
Brussels sprouts at
the Millerton Farmers
Market over the winter.
44
21
10
19
66
27
Heather Hurley sold

vegetables at the
Winsted Farmers
Market last summer.
63
36
31
54
30
29
20
52
28
33
37
2
32
Restaurants
and Cafes
14
15
PAGE 20
22
61
Photo by Jesse Williams
34
35
51
Farms and
Vendors
Canned goods at the Cornwall

Agricultural Fair in September 2015.
60
26
23
25
24
53
Farmers
Markets
Photo by Karen Bartomioli
59
58
41
68
Map Key
62
9 64
42 65
67
11
43
46
50
49
Photo by Lizett Pajuelo
18
6
PAGE 21
Tri-state farm-to-table tour

Continued from page 18, Map on pages 20-21
Ford Farm 368 Norfolk Road, East
27 Canaan. Sweet corn, farm-raised
beef, vegetables, cut flowers.
860-824-5557.
Stone Wall Dairy Farm 332 Kent
28 Road (Route 7), Cornwall
Bridge. 24/7 self-service farm
store. 860-248-0332; www.
stonewalldairyfarmct.com.
Hautboy Hill Farm 39 Hautboy Hill
29 Road, West Cornwall. Features
Irenes Country Kitchens CSA.
Fresh local food and baked
goods. 860-672-4495. Search for
Hautboy Hill Farm on Facebook.
A bounty of fresh fruit

and vegetables at the
Cornwall Agricultural fair
in September 2015.
Longmeadow Farm 92 Town St., West

30 Cornwall. Self-service farm store
open year-round. 860-672-6338
(office) or 860-248-0089 (cell);
www.longmeadowfarmct.com.
Ridgway Farm 142 Town St., West
31 Cornwall. May to December.
860-672-0279; www.
ridgwayfarm.com.
Marble Valley Farm 170 Kent Road,
32 Kent. Open Saturday and
Sunday, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. 860592-0020.
Mountain View Farm 67 Fuller
33 Mountain Road, Kent.
860-927-1856; www.
mountainviewfarmkent.com.
Mountain View Farm 309 Route 7

34 North, Falls Village. Pastured
meats, free-range eggs,
organically grown vegetables.
860-824-7439; www.
mountainviewfarm.farm.
Wike Brothers Farm 38 White Hollow
35 Road, Sharon. Barlow beef, pork,
eggs. Call ahead to arrange for
pick-up or a farm visit. 860-3645765; www.barlowbeef.com.
Lost Ruby Farm 458 Winchester Road,
36 Norfolk. Call 860-542-5806 to
order cheeses and milk.
Thorncrest Farm & Milk House Chocolates
37 280 Town Hill Road, Goshen.
Open Thursday to Saturday, 10
a.m. to 5 p.m., Sunday, 10 a.m.
to 4 p.m. 860-309-2545; www.
milkhousechocolates.net.
Photo by Karen Bartomioli
PAGE 22
New York
MX Morningstar Farm 298 Mountain

38 View Road, Copake. 518-3297994; www.mxmorningstarfarm.
com.
Pigasso Farms 500 Farm Road,
Copake. Pasture-raised pork,
39
beef, lamb, chicken and eggs.
Store open Friday, Saturday,
Sunday, 1030 a.m. to 5 p.m. 518929-3252; www.pigassofarms.
com.
Hawk Dance Farm 362 Rodman Road,
40 Hillsdale. 518-325-1430; www.
hawkdancefarm.com.
Daisi Hill Farm 438 Indian Lake Road,
41 Millerton. Farm stand open May
to October. 518-789-3393.
Sol Flower Farm Shop located at 5744
42 Route 22, Millerton. Offers
vegetables, plants, flowers,
gourmet foods and more. 518567-1951; www.solflowerfarm.
com.
Rock Steady Farm and Flowers 41 Kaye
43 Road, Millerton. Community
Supported Agriculture. 917-8646198; www.rocksteadyfarm.com.
McEnroe Organic Farm 5409 Route
22, Millerton. Market open
44
Monday, Wednesday, Thursday
and Saturday, 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.;
Friday and Sunday, 9 a.m.
to 7 p.m. 518-789-4191; www.
mcenroeorganicfarm.com.
Sky Farm 1395 Boston Corners Road,
45 Millerton. Salads. Only sells
wholesale. 845-698-0353; www.
skyfarmsalads.com.
Ronnybrook Farm Dairy 310 Prospect

46 Hill Road, Ancramdale. 518-3985465; www.ronnybrook.com.
Duncan Hollow Farm Located in
Ancramdale. Pork, beef,
47
lamb, eggs. 518-929-5659
(day), 518-329-7695 (evening);
duncanhollowfarm@gmail.com.
Herondale Farm 90 Wiltsie Bridge
48 Road, Ancramdale. Grassfed/
grass-finished beef and lamb,
pasture-raised chicken and
pork. 518-329-3769; www.
herondalefarm.com.
Chaseholm Farm 124 Chase Road,
49 Pine Plains. Farm store open
Saturdays 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. 518398-0368; www.chaseholmfarm.
com.
Full Circus Farm 27 Mils Path, Pine
50 Plains. Community Supported
Agriculture. 518-789-0025; www.
fullcircusfarm.wordpress.com.
Olde Forge Farms 29 Main St., Wassaic.
51 Farm stand offers produce, jam,
granola, honey, pasta, fudge
and more. 917-579-5402; www.
oldeforgefarms.com
Walbridge Farm 538 Route 343,
52 Millbrook. Store features Angus
beef, eggs, syrup, honey and
more. 845-677-6221; www.
walbridgefarm.com.
Meili Farm 173 Randall Road, Amenia.
53 Pork, beef, eggs and honey. 845546-4690; www.meilifarm.com.
Cedar Hill Farm 176 Leedsville Road,

54 Amenia. All-natural black angus
beef, all-natural pork and sweet
corn. 860-806-3803; www.
cedarhillfarm.net.
Massachusetts
Taft Farms 119 Park St. North, Great

55 Barrington. Open seven days
a week, 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. Farm
store features kitchen, deli and
greenhouse. 413-528-1515; www.
taftfarms.com.
Equinox Farm 258 Bow Wow Road,
56 Sheffield. Visits scheduled
by appointment. Only sells
wholesale. 413-229-2266; www.
equinoxfarmberkshires.com.
Howden Farm 303 Rannapo Road,
57 Sheffield. A bed and breakfast
and a working farm. Home of
the Howden pumpkins. 413-2298481; www.howdenfarm.com.
RESTAURANTS AND CAFES

Connecticut
plantin seeds 99 Main St., North

58 Canaan. Educational and
community organization
designed to explore and
cultivate the culture of food,
farming and farmers. 860453-4363; www.facebook.com/
plantinseedsfarmkitchen.
The Boathouse 349 Main St.,
59 Lakeville. Rustic ambiance,
fresh ingredients, fine
dining. 860-435-2111; www.
theboathouseatlakeville.com.
Morgans at the Interlaken Inn 74
60 Interlaken Road, Lakeville.
Farm-to-table cuisine. 860-4359878; www.interlakeninn.com.
PAGE 23
Tri-state farm-to-table tour

Continued from page 23, Map on pages 20-21
The Woodland 192 Sharon Road,
61 Lakeville. A country restaurant.
860-435-0578; www.
thewoodlandrestaurant.com.
The White Hart 15 Undermountain
62 Road, Salisbury. Dining room
menu highlights seasonal
ingredients sourced from
nearby farms. The tap room
offers British-inspired comfort
food. 860-435-0030; www.
whitehartinn.com.
Mountainside Cafe 251 Route 7
South, Falls Village. Farm63
to-table menu features food
prepared using locally sourced
ingredients. 860-824-7876;
www.mountainside.com/cafe.
New York
Irving Farm Coffee House 44 Main St.,

64 Millerton. Cafe serves Irving
Farm coffees roasted at its
facility a mile down Route 22 in
Millerton. 518-789-2020; www.
irvingfarm.com.
Manna Dew Cafe 54 Main St.,
65 Millerton. From their gardens to
the table, local, fresh, organic,
sustainable. 518-789-3570.
Montes Local Kitchen and Tap Room
3330 Route 343, Amenia. Serves
66 ingredients from local farms
across Dutchess County. 845789-1818; www.monteskitchen.
com. Montes Health Nut Hut,
an organic health food and
specialty store, is located next
door at 51 Mechanic St.
Serevan 6 Autumn Lane, Amenia.

67 Dishes include ingredients from
Hudson Valley farms. 845-3739800; www.serevan.com.
Charlottes 4258 Route 44, Millbrook.
68 Dishes are freshly prepared
each day. 845-677-5888; www.
charlottesny.com.
Massachusetts
John Andrews Farmhouse Restaurant

224 Hillsdale Road, South
69
Egremont. Regional American
cuisine with an emphasis
on local fresh and seasonal
ingredients and Italian regional
influences. 413-528-3469; www.
johnandrewsrestaurant.com.
Allium Restaurant and Bar 42/44
70 Railroad St., Great Barrington.
Serves contemporary American
cuisine with a varying seasonal
menu focused on local, farmfresh ingredients. 413-528-2118;
www.alliumberkshires.com.
Shoppers can visit the

Norfolk Farmers Market
throughout the year. The
spring and summer market
is held on Saturdays,
May through October,
from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m.,
outside Town Hall. For
more details go to www.
norfolkfarmersmarket.org.
Photo by Bruce Frisch
PAGE 24
KNOW YOUR FARMER
Where Does Your Lettuce Grow?

Chris Regan
raises lettuce
on Sky Farm in
Millerton, N.Y.
eading a restaurant
menu in this glorious
season of farm-totable requires a little bit of
knowledge. Not only do we
need to know the names of
certain exotic types of meat,
grain and produce we also
need to know the names of
the farms from which they
have been procured.
Well catch on. Remember
those innocent long-ago
days when we still hadnt

learned what balsamic and
focaccia meant? In time,
we will know what John
Andrews in South Egremont
means by risotto served
with Shaved Berleberg and
where the Stagecoach Tavern
in Sheffield gets its pungent
Hosta Hill Kimchee. Well
learn why locals like to
drink old-fashioned cans of
Big Elm Brewing beer from
Photos by Cynthia Hochswender
Sheffield especially to
accompany burgers from
Whippoorwill Farm in
Salisbury.
Salad is an easy place
to start, and an important
one. It was in many ways
the mesclun revolution that
helped establish the local
farm movement here in the
Tri-state region (and, in fact,
in most of America).
Also making lettuce a
little easier to understand
for those who are farmto-table neophytes is that
there are basically two main
lettuce farmers in the region:
Chris Regans Sky Farm in
Millerton and Ted Dobsons
Equinox Farm in Sheffield.
The two farmer/vendors
have essentially divided
up the region, sort of like
the way Pope Alexander
VI divided South America
between the Portuguese and
the Spanish in the 1490s
although that division was
made to avoid a war.
The lettuce treaty has
sort of the opposite origin:
Dobson and Regan are close
friends who used to farm
together. When Regan left
to begin his own farm and
his own company, he and
PAGE 25
know your lettuce farmer

Chris Regan in his

Millerton greenhouse.
his former partner agreed

that Regan would take on
the Hudson Valley and
Connecticut, leaving the
Berkshires and Boston (and
everything in between) to
Dobson. They share New
York City.
So, if you dine out mainly
in Salisbury or Millerton,
chances are that youve seen
Sky Farm Greens on many
menus but have not seen
Equinox Farm listed as a
source.
The opposite applies to
those who dine primarily on
the Massachusetts side of
the border.
The one exception is The
White Hart inn in Salisbury.
Dobsons greens are on the
menu there because he has
a longstanding working
relationship with chef/owner
Annie Wayte.
Whether in New
York, Connecticut or
Massachusetts, however,
Dobsons influence is felt.
A native of New Jersey,
he rambled around the
world as a young man, living
in Manhattan, St. Barts,
Switzerland and California
before settling down in
Hillsdale, N.Y., and starting
to grow lettuce and other
produce which he brought
to farmers markets in New
York City.
Salads, ready to eat
Back in those days, he

recalled, no one had fresh,
organic produce in this
PAGE 26
region, and no one really

knew what it was.
He had to sell the concept
to New York restaurant chefs
especially because he was
selling his wares for more
than $20 a pound back in
those days.
It was like selling
narcotics, he said. The
comparison is somewhat
apt: The fresher greens are
indeed addictive; once youve
tasted them its hard to eat
anything else.
And it was that perky,
fresh, delicious flavor that
sold chefs on those very
expensive greens.
Although Dobson is an
excellent salesman and
marketer, he knew that
all the talk in the world
wouldnt matter if the
lettuce wasnt great. But it
was.
Once they tasted it, they
were hooked, he said. They
didnt really care that it was
organic and local. They
liked that it had been cut
that morning, that it was so
fresh.
Chefs until then had
primarily been buying their
greens from California, and
they just didnt have the
same kind of life or flavor.
What also convinced
chefs to spend the extra
money on the local greens
was that Dobson presented
them in a way that was easy
to use.
Mesclun at that point
had a reputation for being
too fancy, too expensive,

he said. We sold our greens
instead as a cut-and-ready
salad.
Eventually, through a
series of complicated events,
life changes and different
farms and different names in
different locations, Dobson
met up with Regan and they
began to farm together.
Regan is in some ways
the quiet opposite of the
outgoing Dobson. A native
of Green Bay, Wisc., he is
like a classic film version
of a Midwestern farmer:
handsome, suntanned and
laconic, the kind of character
A salad thats
fresh has so
much more life
in it than a salad
thats been in
a box for two
or three weeks.
And theres no
comparison
in terms of
complexity in
the flavor and
appearance of a
fresh salad.
who would be played by

Randolph Scott or Gregory
Peck.
He didnt plan on being a
farmer. Regan moved to New
York to be an artist, and had
a fairly solid career going as
a welder. Hes one of those
people that understands
how to make things and how
to fix them. Hes currently
building his own house in
the Boston Corners section
of North East (which is
the town that includes the
village of Millerton).
The seeds of a revolution
Dobson had planted the

literal and figurative seeds of
the local lettuce revolution
(with a thriving side business
in exotic baby vegetables
such as golden beets and
Afghani black carrots).
Working together, he
and Regan made important
steps forward in refining the
process by which they were
growing, cutting, packaging
and selling their produce.
We wouldnt have been
able to do it without each
other, Dobson said. Here
in this part of the country,
we really were the guys who
introduced this.
It isnt just Dobson
and Regan who believe
this. Watching Dobson
walk through the produce
department at Guidos
in Great Barrington, for
example, is a little like
watching Jesus walk
through a town square.
Everyone wants to talk to

him. Everyone wants to
touch him. Everyone does
indeed seem to think of him
as one of the guys who
helped start the local food
movement here.
Dobson is extremely keen
on being sure that everyone
shares the credit. There are
so many names he rattles off
that they cant all be listed
here.
Regan was essential.
So too were the chefs
who bought those early
microgreens and baby
veggies and served them to
their patrons the diners
who left the table thinking,
That tasted great. Where
can I buy some for myself?
Once they
tasted it, they
were hooked.
They didnt
really care that
it was organic
and local. They
liked that it had
been cut that
morning, that it
was so fresh.
Thats why its so tasty
That exposure to what

food can and should taste
like is the essential part of
the local food evangelism.
Once people taste it,
Regan said, they dont really
want to buy supermarket
greens any longer.
We charge a lot more,
probably five or six times
what the California stuff
costs. But its just not the
same. A salad thats fresh has
so much more life in it than
a salad thats been in a box
for two or three weeks. And
theres no comparison in
terms of complexity in the
flavor and appearance of the
salad.
PAGE 27
know your lettuce farmer

Its about the freshness.
Thats why its so tasty.
The demand has grown
since the early years when
Dobson was selling 5 to
10 pounds a week to chefs
in Manhattan. Now he
estimates that, in season, he
is selling several thousand
pounds of greens a week, all
of it grown on the fields and
in the greenhouses of the
Sheffield farm he has owned
since 2000.
So much lettuce is being
grown and sold that it was
easy and logical for Regan
to split off in the late 1990s.
Regan had played a crucial
part in the creation of
the business, helping not
only with the vegetable
production but also with
some of the mechanical
aspects of the growing and
harvesting.
Around that time, his
close friend from his college
days in Wisconsin, sculptor
Henry Klimowicz and his
wife, Dr. Kristie Schmidt,
had moved up here from
New York City and had
purchased a farm on Boston
Corners Road. Regan moved
into their barn and farmed
the land behind it. Formerly
a dairy farm, the soil was
exquisitely rich and well
drained.
Regan chose the name
Sky Farm in honor of
the Sky Farm poets, two
sisters who lived in nearby
Massachusetts on Mount
Washington. Their father
PAGE 28
tried unsuccessfully to
farm their mountainous
property, and his
daughters began writing
and selling verse to try
and help pay the bills.
Despite adopting the
name of a doomed farm,
Regan has made a success
of his business. Like
Dobson, he is producing
thousands of pounds of
greens and selling them
by the case to farmstands
and markets and,
primarily, to restaurants.
Most chefs will
proudly list Sky Farm and
Equinox on the menu.
But just because their names

arent there, that doesnt
necessarily mean that the
restaurant isnt using local
produce. The best protocol,
for those who really want
to know, is to ask the server
to ask the chef (if it isnt, for
example, a busy Saturday
night when all the tables are
full of hungry diners). Chefs
want to know that their
diners want to know what
theyre eating.
Lakeville Journal on May 28,
2015.
Ted Dobson
raises lettuce on
Equinox Farm in
Sheffield, Mass.
FEEDING A COMMUNITY
Combining Food and Education

By Gabe Lefferts
Eggs Benedict
with bacon,
arugula and jam
on a homemade
English muffin.
ven though the

change in season
wont affect what
many people eat on a daily
basis, for one business, it
changes a lot. Thats plantin
seeds in North Canaan. Its
a restaurant/grocery store/
classroom hybrid where its
all about being local.
On a Saturday morning
in March, plantin seeds
featured a plate of eggs
Benedict made by Tracy

Hayhurst.
Practically all of the
ingredients were locally
based.
Over-easy eggs from
Longmeadow Farm in
Cornwall were placed on
English muffins made
with wheat flour from
Farmer Ground Flour
in Trumansburg, N.Y.
Canadian-style bacon came
Photos by Gabe Lefferts
from The Meat Market in

Great Barrington, arugula
from Equinox Farm in
Sheffield and blue cheese
from Great Hill Blue in
Marion, Mass.
Topping it all off was a
preserve from Poms Cabin
Farm in Falls Village and a
homemade tomato and chili
jam.
Each Saturday, the
plantin seeds menu features
a different ingredient,
based upon whats available
locally.
Its spring, so a lot
will be happening with
whats seeding and whats
sprouting, Hayhurst said
in an interview in plantin
seeds cozy dining space.
Coming up, well do some
stuff with wild foods like
ramps and mushrooms
and early spring greens.
Thatll be our focus for the
kitchen.
Just in case you are
wondering, ramps are
pungent wild leeks that
grow in the eastern U.S.
Plantin seeds
acknowledged the vernal
equinox on March 20
with a public educational
PAGE 29
food and education

Tracy Hayhurst
is the director
of community
outreach at
plantin seeds
farm kitchen in
North Canaan,
Conn.
walk at Poms Cabin Farm.

Informal walks such as this
one gave the founders of
plantin seeds (including
Dale McDonald, who is also
an investor in The Lakeville
Journal Co.) the original
inspiration to open the
business last June.
They wanted a place
where we could have the
same kinds of conversations
that were already happening
on this piece of land, but
with more people out in the
public, Hayhurst said.
In light of the walks

success, they will become
a regular event for future
equinoxes and solstices.
Its a really nice way to
kind of cap off the quarter.
With years of experience
cooking with local
ingredients, and a strong
motivation to maintain
that practice, Hayhurst
and chef Brandon Scimeca
are comfortable with using
limited ingredients.
Were very particular
about that, because we want
it to be an honest reflection
of our community and our
climate.
Plantin seeds is open for
donation-based dining on
Friday nights from 5 to 8
p.m., Saturdays from 8 a.m.
to 2 p.m. and Sundays from
11 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Dont be surprised if you
end up sitting with friends
or even strangers. They
dont take reservations. As
for why, well, Hayhurst
summed it up best: Its
more of a community
thing.
Lakeville Journal on March
31, 2016.
Coming up,
well do some
stuff with wild
foods like ramps
and mushrooms
and early spring
greens. Thatll
be our focus for
the kitchen.
PAGE 30
OUTREACH
Teaching Children About Farming

By Lizett Pajuelo
he Latino community
in this area continues
to grow, and with it
the opportunity to bridge
the cultural gap that comes
with it.
Grace Episcopal Churchs
Latino Outreach program
(GLO) in Millbrook, directed
by Evelyn Garzetta, has
played a key role in helping
Latino families assimilate
Wed.-Fri. 5-10
Sat. 12-10 Sun. 12-8
Bar open after hours all days
into their new community.

GLO provides many
resources to help Latino
families overcome hardship.
One way is through
the English as a Second
Language (ESL) classes
offered in Amenia, Dover,
Millbrook, Pleasant Valley,
Pine Plains and Pawling.
Most of the students
are parents and heads of
households of low-income
families who struggle to
meet their daily needs.
A need was expressed
for fresh produce by those
students when a food
survey was administered,
Garzetta said, foreshadowing
the origination of a GLO
initiative.
Wed.-Sun. 11:30-6
PAGE 31
teaching children
Full Circus Farm in Pine
Plains has a Community
Supported Agriculture (CSA)
program that runs for 22
weeks beginning in June.
To Garzetta, this meant a
possibility of fresh produce
for the Latino community
and more specifically her
ESL students. This led to
the creation of the Full
Circus Farm Garden Tour
for children of ESL students
in 2015.
We started the program
for all Grace Latino
Outreach-sponsored ESL
students and their families.
The reason that GLO
selected Full Circus Farm
for the CSA program was
that it was a brand new
farm, and we felt it would
be wonderful to support
[Miriam Goler and Mark
Stonehill], two dedicated
young farmers within the
Northeast.
Their farm is organic,
which we felt was an
advantage for the families,
and the cost of the CSA was
reasonable, Garzetta said of
the collaboration.
Miriam and Mark both
were child caregivers at
the time for the GLOsponsored ESL class in Pine
Plains, Garzetta added.
They worked with the
children while their parents
attended class, and after
a conversation between
GLO, Miriam and Mark,
they happily agreed to teach
the children how to grow
PAGE 32
vegetables in their garden.

The two-acre farm
in Pine Plains supplies
plenty of running space
and new things to see
for the children, who
roam around freely and
immerse themselves in new
experiences.
Stonehill and Goler said
they have been humbled by
this experience.
This is a unique
opportunity that was made
possible by Evelyn Garzetta.
Shes really to thank for
this, Stonehill said. Evelyn
is really excited about this
program and thinks it is
necessary for children in
this generation.
With this program,
children get the chance to

interact with the whole
farm, he added. The kids
totally love it they love
exploration, the feel of
open space and seeing the
animals.
Through the garden tour,
children get to see all the
work that goes into caring
for a farm. They get to see
the harvesting process, the
feeding of the animals and
the cultivation of the plants
that grow in the farms
greenhouses and fields.
Among the childrens
favorites are the animals
and a large salad spinner;
they take turns spinning
the handle as hard as they
can. The youngsters also
Mark Stonehill
and Miriam
Goler, owners of
Full Circus Farm.
Photo courtesy Full Circus Farm
seem to gravitate toward a

small stream where they
once found a trout flopping
when the stream dried out,
according to Stonehill.
But aside from providing
children of all ages with
a learning experience,
Stonehill said it is a two-way
street, as the program allows
for cultural exchange among
all participating members
including Stonehill and
Goler.
We learn from them as
much as they learn from us,
Stonehill said.
Although the program
is still young, Stonehill and
Goler said they are in awe of
the children they welcomed

last season.
Last year, we got
between four to eight
children at a time, Stonehill
said, adding that children
of all ages are welcome.
Our youngest visitor was
a kindergartner, and our
oldest was a sixth-grader
last year.
The program runs
throughout the summer.
Children meet once a week
for an hour and a half to
plant and learn how to care
for their growing vegetables.
Eventually they pick their
crops and take them home.
GLO will continue to
sponsor both CSA and the

Garden Tour program in
2016, and it is extended to
ESL students who attend
the classes regularly.
Full Circus Farm
is entering its second
growing season. CSA
full and half shares are
currently available. For a
CSA application or more
information, call 518789-0025 or visit www.
fullcircusfarm.wordpress.
com.
The kids totally

love it they
love exploration,
the feel of open
space and seeing
the animals.

Millerton News on April 21,
2016.
Walbridge Farm is a sustainable Registered Black Angus farm

located in Millbrook, New York.
Our pasture raised angus is grass fed and nonGMO grain finished. Their diet consists of
our own silage cornlage, sunflower meal and haylage grown on Walbridge Farms 900
acres plus the additional 700 acres we farm.
We do not spray our fields with pesticides or insecticides,
our soils and water are tested yearly, our crops are rotated
in order to care for the nutrients in the soils and our cattle are moved throughout our fields in
order to preserve our pastures. To do all this we must invest more.
But it is of utmost importance to us, as committed stewards of the land,
to have a well maintained and healthy farm at all times.
538 Route 343, Millbrook 12545 / 845.677.6221 / For hours please visit walbridgefarm.com
PAGE 33
KNOW YOUR BAKER
Experimenting in the Daily Grind

By Hannah Pouler
hen it comes to
food, you cant get
much fresher than
hand-baked bread made from
hand-ground grain. Every
week in Millerton, Barbara
Ray makes exactly that.
Although Ray has been
baking recreationally since
she was a child, she didnt go
professional until about seven
years ago.
Until recently, her career

was mainly in wine. She
worked in the California wine
industry for 25 years after
earning a degree in viticulture
and enology at the University
of California in Davis. When
she came to the East coast,
Ray got a job in purchasing
and sales at Little Gates & Co.
Wine Merchants in Millerton.
Ive always loved
cooking, Ray said, and when
my son Julian gave me an
amazing cookbook I had to
try it out.
She experimented
with a variety of breads,
and eventually decided to
share her passion with the
community.
Seven years ago, she
baked a batch of bread and
brought it to yoga class at
Space studio in Lakeville.
After class, she sold the loaves
out of the back of her car
and was met with a flurry of
enthusiastic buyers.
This area is very
supportive of local bread, and
very conscious, Ray said. So

supportive, in fact, that she
soon overwhelmed the Space
parking lot, and decided to
expand her business.
To acquaint herself with
the commercial bread world,
Ray spent a year working at
Bantam Bread in Bantam,
Conn., where she learned
how to bake on a larger scale.
Her new skills and
knowledge allowed her to
sell her bread wholesale to
two farmers markets. Last
summer, her bread was
sold at Sol Flower Farm
Shop in Millerton (www.
solflowerfarm.com) and
at Herondale Farm Market
(www.herondalefarm.com) in
Ancramdale. Any remaining
loaves were sold at yoga class
(www.yogaatspace.com)
and at Little Gates (www.
littlegateswine.com). As of
this spring, her plan was to
continue selling at yoga at
noon on Saturday and at the
wine shop from 11 a.m. to 7
p.m.
Barbara Ray grinds the grains

for some of her breads.
Photo by Hannah Pouler
PAGE 34
The bread is sold at

between $6 and $6.50 per
loaf. Most are multigrain.
Rays specialties include
sweet potato rosemary, fruit
and nut, jalapeno cheese,
sourdough wheat, and
challah. Ray experiments
often with new flavors,
so the menu constantly
changes.
One aspect of her
baking that doesnt change,
however, is the quality of her
ingredients. Ray uses yeast
from Bantam Breads and
eggs from Pine Hill Farm in
Sharon and Spencer Farm.
Her grain comes from
her sister in Maine, and Ray
grinds 25 to 35 percent of it
by herself. With the help
of her brother-in-law, she
designed and constructed
a bicycle-powered grain
grinder to help get the
job done. The machine
consists of a stationary bike
hooked up to a grain grinder
powered by the bikes pedals.
It was a life saver, Ray
said. Grinding grain by hand
is back-breaking work.
Ray said she would be
willing to increase the size
of her business, if she could
find someone to help with
the work.
Im always looking for
the right apprentice, she
said, but not many young
people want to wake up at 3
a.m. four or five days a week.
Its hard work. You have to
really love what you do.
So if the work is so
difficult, whats in it for Ray?
Eating the bread, of course!
But there is also a creative

pleasure that comes with
baking and working with her
hands.
I love the ability to create
that comes with baking, she
said. You can put anything
in bread: fruit, nuts I
experiment with how much
dough I use, I put in any and
all vegetables, I use molasses
instead of sugar (except
in my challah). I love the
creativity, and I love eating
it. Its delicious.
To check with Ray about
when and where to get her
bread, call her at 707-8882332.
Lakeville Journal on June 25,
2015.
Im always
looking for the
right apprentice,
but not many
young people
want to wake
up at 3 a.m. four
or five days a
week.
Grand Opening
May 21, 2016!
10:00am - 4:00pm
5409 Route 22
Millerton, NY 12546
w
BBQ Free Tastings Family Activities Live Music

Visit the Market to pick up fresh Tomatoes, Asparagus, Lettuce, & more!
We also carry organically grown meats: Chicken, Beef, Pork, and Lamb
Visit mcenroeorganicfarm.com or call (518) 789-4191
PAGE 35
KNOW YOUR FARMER
What It Means To Be Organic

A
Maria
Lafontan and
her husband,
Vincent, started
by farming
for themselves
for fun.
lthough Kent is a
town with a deep
farming history, its a
fairly new development that
meat and produce from the
farms is available at weekly
farmers markets.
The Kent Land Trusts
Marble Valley Farm has sold
produce at the farm on Route
7 for several years. Like most
vegetable growers in the
region, farmer Megan Haney
said summer 2015 started
slow but ended with high

yields of nearly everything
she planted.
Maria and Vince Lafontan
of Mountain View Farm in
Kent also had a remarkable
year, not only for growing
produce but also for selling
it. They were among the
inaugural farmers at the Kent
Farmers Market.
Jayne Ridgway of
Cornwall is the market
master, Maria Lafontan
Photos courtesy Maria Lafontan
PAGE 36
said. The Kent Chamber of

Commerce put the market
together, with most of
the legwork done by Dave
Fairty, Peter DAprile and Bill
Morrison.
All the participating
farmers are in Kent or
within a few miles of town,
Lafontan said. Camps Road
Farm is in Kent, they sell
chicken. We have Ridgway
Farm from Cornwall and we
have Cornwall Soap. The
Hurlburts are from Cornwall,
they sell meat. Two people
are selling herbs, and one is
also selling lamb.
The new bakery in Kent,
So Delicious, is right next to
the market.
They always bring some
pies and other treats to sell,
Lafontan said.
The Lafontans have been
selling their produce for 13
years at the New Milford
farmers market.
She described New
Milfords Saturday market
as very nice, an authentic
farmers market, meaning
that the vendors are selling
only things that theyve
grown, raised or produced
themselves. At the Kent
market, she said, Were
trying to do the same thing.
They also have a

farmstand in the garage
on their property, which is
sometimes managed by their
daughters, Olivia (19 and a
student at the University of
Connecticut) and Abigail (17
and a student at Housatonic
Valley Regional High School),
and other area teens.
I always gave them a
choice, Lafontan said. They
had to have a job but they
could decide where they
wanted to work. They both
opted to stay on the farm.
Farming is very much
a family affair for the
Lafontans. Vince Lafontan
(a former Kent selectman) is
the son of Andre Lafontan,
who was famous in the area
for the high-quality humus
he sold from his property on
Camps Flat Road, until the
business closed in 1993.
Maria Lafontan grew up in
Torrington, but her parents
were German immigrants
who kept a small family farm.
We were always selfsustaining, she said. We
had our own animals, we
made our own sausages and
meats. We gardened and
canned and froze. Its the way
I grew up.
Maria and Vince, who are
in their early 40s, met while
they were students at the
University of Connecticut.
They decided to settle
in Kent and started with
growing vegetables for
themselves in their own
garden.
And it just naturally grew
from there, Maria said.
She takes obvious pride

in her daughters, whom she
said, know how to grow and
nurture and harvest. They
love running the farmstand
and interacting with the
customer. Theyve learned
how to manage money.
Because of course theres
a lot more to farming than
just growing things. There
is also the business side,
which is especially complex
for Mountain View, which
is a certified organic farm
which means that the
federal government decides
whether the farms practices
and procedures meet their
standards.
Its expensive to get
certified, Maria said. You
have to pay an inspector to
come a couple times a year
and prove that what youre
growing is actually organic.
But there are grants from
the USDA to offset your
expenses by 75 percent.
Because youre being
inspected, you have to pay
really close attention to
detail and keep records. They
want to see where you got
your seed, how you grow it,
how you harvest it, how you
sell it.
A lot of farmers are
almost organic, she said,
but arent able or willing
to do the extra paperwork
and pay the extra costs. The
Lafontans are willing to do it
and are pleased to be able to
say their produce is certified
organic.
The main thing is to
get organic seed, which is
The Lafontans raise pork and sell it

throughout the winter.
expensive but to be certified

organic, you have to have
organic seeds, Maria said.
Theres a lot of cross
pollination. You need to
keep a certain distance
between certain plants. Ive
grown saved seed and what
I grew wasnt always what I
expected. If you want to save
seeds, youre almost better
off growing for that purpose.
Then you can make sure
everything is amply spaced
apart and you can grow the
plant to its fullest and biggest
extent so you can have the
best seeds. Its a different
thing.
To learn more about
Mountain View Farm,
go to www. www.
mountainviewfarmkent.com.
originally appeared in Discover
Kent on Oct. 8, 2015.
We had our
own animals,
we made our
own sausages
and meats. We
gardened and
canned and
froze. Its the
way I grew up.
PAGE 37
FOOD FOR HEALTH
Forest-to-Table Eating in Spring

By Briana Juliano
A field of ramps
found in the
woods.
ild wood
leeks (allium
tricoccum) also
known as ramps, are starting
to pop up in damp, woody
spots around the Northwest
Corner of Connecticut.
These forest-to-table
veggies are a member of
the onion family and grow
mainly in the Northeast and
Canada. They only grow

during April and May, and if
you are able to find them in a
local grocery store, they can
cost as much as $15 to $18 a
pound. Personally, Id rather
take a quick walk into the
woods and grab a few for free.
Ramps grow in shady,
low-lying wooded areas
which also mean that
Photos by Briana Juliano
PAGE 38
where you find ramps, youll

probably find ticks, especially
after the mild winter we just
had. Prepare yourself with
bug spray (your best bet is
one with DEET) and wear
tight, light-colored clothing
and tall boots or high socks.
Check yourself over carefully
when you get home and take
a soapy shower and shampoo
your hair.
As with any foraging, its
better if you dont search
alone. Bring a friend or a
family member and make it
an afternoon hike.
Most importantly,
remember to harvest wisely!
It takes seven years for
ramps to reach maturity
and produce seeds. Never
take the bulb! Let me say it
again: Never take the bulb!
Due to increasing popularity,
improper harvesting,
commercial harvesting and
large ramp-centric festivals,
the population is decreasing
rapidly. Thats not good for
ramps, and definitely not
good for ramp lovers such as
myself! If and when you are
lucky enough to find a family
of ramps, only take a small
percent of the patch and do
your best to only remove the
leaves.
As you search for and gather

ramps, be wary of ticks.
Ramps are easy to identify
by even first-time foragers.
Each plant contains two to
three leaves with burgundy
stems and small white
bulbs, similar to scallions.
You would think that the
basic leaf appearance would
make them difficult to
distinguish; however, their
strong onion scent sets them
apart. A common look-alike
is a young lily of the valley.
Before blooming, this plant
has a similar leaf style.
The entire lily of the
valley plant (flowers,
leaves, stems and berries) is
poisonous. But dont worry
too much; their heavy,
almost-plastic-like leaves
and sweet scent make them
noticeably different from
ramps.
Ramps are not only
delicious, they are also a

wonderful source of vitamin
C, a powerful antioxidant,
and vitamin A, which is
good for your eyesight and
helps build a strong immune
system.
Historically, ramps
were known as a spring
tonic and one of the first
vegetables eaten in the
spring to ward off winter
illnesses.
I personally prefer to
eat my ramps for breakfast
with a couple of eggs taken
straight from my backyard
chickens. Below is a lowmaintenance preparation
that never disappoints.
Lakeville Journal on April 28,
2016.
Poached eggs with ramps and toast

Cut four or five ramps
lengthwise, and lightly saut
them in butter over medium
heat for about 6 to 8 minutes
or until they get soft. Season
to taste with salt and pepper.
In a pot, bring several
inches of water to a boil.
Lower the water to a simmer
and add a splash of vinegar
(any kind will do).
Break two eggs (or more,
depending on how hungry
you are) into the pot, and
give the water a quick swirl
with a spoon. Stirring the
water prevents the eggs from

sticking to the bottom of
the pan, and encourages the
whites to form a nice shape.
Cook for 3 minutes.
Meanwhile, toast up some
bread to your liking. Brush
with olive oil and top with
the ramps.
Once the eggs are done,
drain them on a piece of
paper towel carefully, so
you dont break the yolks.
Season with salt, pepper and
hot pepper flakes and place
on top of the ramps.
PAGE 39
Named one of
Americas 50 Best
New Restaurants
by Bon Apptit
THE
WHITE HART
ON SALISBURY TOWN GREEN EST. 1806
Join us in the Dining Room

for dinner on Friday and Saturday
And in the historic Tap Room
for lunch and dinner seven days a week
860 435 0030 WHITEHARTINN.COM
PAGE 40

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Discover

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THAT IS WHAT MAKES

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THE MILLERTON NEWS The Winsted Journal www.TriCornerNews.com

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farm plate special

860.453.4363 99 Main St, Canaan, CT 06018

Welcome to Discover Farm to Table

his is the inaugural

restaurants, bakers and

help this movement grow

Illustrations throughout by Janet Manko

DISCOVER FARM TO TABLE 2016

What To Do With All That Produce

DISCOVER FARM TO TABLE 2016

a very social place. People

likes everything he sells. Not

What he eats in winter

In winter, he poaches it.

produce throughout the year

The salmonside-dish menu

Paley winter favorite: the

Ill put some in soup.

DISCOVER FARM TO TABLE 2016

Garlic is one of the most important crops around here.

the help of a greenhouse;

Ah, but soon its spring

DISCOVER FARM TO TABLE 2016

Paley said. And baby

The real explosion of side

drop of olive oil and some salt

produce throughout the year

Illustrations by Janet Manko

the size and flavor of the

DISCOVER FARM TO TABLE 2016

Millerton CSA Helps the Neediest

Photos courtesy Rock Steady Farm and Flowers

DISCOVER FARM TO TABLE 2016

the few hundred dollars it

Thats why Rock

said. That money will go

Rock Steady Farm and

community farming through CSAs

Two loyal CSA

opportunity to bring farming

it, make boxes and bring it

For the last

DISCOVER FARM TO TABLE 2016

Flower Crew member

Cheney said the program

DISCOVER FARM TO TABLE 2016

not getting any subsidies

community farming through CSAs

From left, Rock

food stamps dont give a

To donate to the lowincome CSA program, call

next years low-income CSA

NECC has done

A version of this article

DISCOVER FARM TO TABLE 2016