Académique Documents
Professionnel Documents
Culture Documents
SAVI NG FAR M L AN D
POST AND LO
A Natural Fit
Fresh, local food is making headlines, yet in
the United States cropland is at its lowest levels
since 1945. From the beginning, POST has worked
to protect local farmland and keep it under cultiva-
tion. In this issue, we talk with some of the San
Mateo County farmers who benefit from POST’s
effort to save agricultural land.
Farmland requires special care. While state,
county and local parks agencies like Midpeninsula
Regional Open Space District are appropriate stew-
ards for open space terrain, the best long-term
owner for agricultural land is likely to be a farmer.
© 2008 Ann Duwe
Toto Ranch 35
Pescadero
TA
SA
CL
NTA
AR
CR
Peninsula Farms
CO
UZ
UN
CO
TY
UN
TY
WHAT IS A CSA?
Community Supported Agriculture is an arrange-
ment between people eager to eat fresh, local food and
farmers needing a steady market. Members pay in
advance for a share of a farm’s bounty for one growing
season. Members also share the season’s risks, such as
poor weather or attacks by insects. The money upfront
enables the farmer to purchase seed, soil amendments,
farm equipment and labor early in the year, long before
anything is ready to harvest, and keeps the farmer out
Ned Conwell and Ryan Casey of Blue House Farm are among the young,
of debt.
innovative new farmers on the Coastside. CSAs may give members more collard greens or
kohlrabi than they want at a given moment, but they
farmers’ markets,” says Ned. “We also share a similar also offer tastes of new foods or new ways of preparing
dream of combining farming with environmental old favorites. No matter what’s in their weekly box, it’s
education.” up to members to cook it themselves, which may be the
Not owning their land is both an advantage and a greatest benefit of all.
risk, says Ned. “Healthy soil is our most important To learn more about Blue House Farm, go to
resource. We’ve put a great deal of time, energy, money www.bluehousefarm.org. For more about CSAs, visit
and materials into building the soil at Blue House www.nal.usda.gov/afsic/pubs/csa/csadef.shtml.
Farm,” he says. “We’ve planted cover crops, added
compost, selected the best times and methods for tilling,
rotated crops, tested the soil repeatedly. If we were to
leave, we couldn’t take the soil with us. It’s the soil that
fall 2008 ■ 5
PIE RANCH:
Wants a Second Slice
Named for the shape of the property, Pie
Ranch between Pescadero and Davenport is a model
Pie Ranch family Jered Lawson, Nancy Vail and their children, Rosa and Lucas. ■ Protect yourself from harmful chemicals. Small
farms tend to use fewer and less dangerous chemicals
several days. Says Jered, “Most urban kids believe milk
than large corporate farms, especially when the farmer
comes from a carton. It’s an eye-opening experience for
lives on the land.
them to milk a goat and drink the milk fresh from the
animal. ■ Protect biodiversity. Local farms grow more than
“Our culture has lost the connection to the sources one crop. Growing several crops and multiple varieties
protects biodiversity, preserves a broader gene pool
of our food,” says Jered. “We use the farm to educate
among plants and prevents the soil from wearing out.
youth and adults about the progression from seed to
table. People who understand the process develop a ■ Boost the local economy. After paying for trans-
conscious capacity to make good choices.” portation, processing, packaging, refrigeration and
In addition to its seasonal farm stand, Pie Ranch marketing, farmers nationwide receive only 23 cents of
works with Mission Pie, at 2901 Mission Street in San every dollar you spend on food. When you buy locally,
Francisco, to sell pies, eggs and fresh, organic produce farmers earn a much greater share, and the money
stays in the community.
from Pie Ranch and other local organic farms. The pie
shop is the farm’s urban link and offers employment ■ Keep development in check. Preserving farmland
opportunities to students who have completed programs prevents development from sprawling, thereby preserving
at Pie Ranch. open space and scenic vistas.
Pie Ranch succeeds on a scientifically controlled
Sources: www.farmland.org, www.slowfoodusa.org, www.about.com
rotation of crops, animals, harvests and cultivation prac-
tices. Every plant and animal is multitasking. Chickens
are enclosed in a portable solar electric fence. After the
goats have grazed tall edible plants, the chickens graze
on the stubble, removing insects and fertilizing as they
strut. A little red gypsy wagon contains nesting boxes
where part of the flock lays its eggs. From 320 hens, Pie
Ranch collects 100 dozen eggs per week to use, sell or
distribute through their “Community Supported
Eggriculture” program.
Even the monthly barn dances are multipurpose.
The public is invited to an afternoon work party and
potluck supper before the dancing. As they build up the
farm, Pie Ranch is building community.
www.pieranch.org. ■
© 2008 Ann Duwe
B.J. BURNS: Facing the Future
Twenty-five years ago, B.J. Burns was an established growers, but large growers must still ship out of the
Pescadero farmer, growing straw flowers, artichokes, fava area. They produce much more of a single product
beans and pumpkins on a combination of owned and than could be consumed here on a daily basis.”
leased land. Over the years, he witnessed the loss of large As a farmer, B.J. concentrates on crops he can sell
farms and dairies and the family life they supported. He locally—pumpkins, yarrow and oat hay. Though he has
experienced the disappearance of infrastructure for farm- used conventional farming methods for years, this season
ing as well as changing markets. Seasonal labor, replace- he is growing pumpkins without pesticides on his own
ment parts, mechanics, even produce buyers moved to land as well as on land leased from POST at Cloverdale
the Central Valley, with the result that his most important Coastal Ranches, just across the fence from Blue House
farm tool was the phone he used to round up services. Farm. His pumpkins are sold to local stores and farm
In 1983, land available for farming on the Coastside stands, with the balance distributed in the Bay Area.
was shrinking. As B.J. looked ahead, he imagined local The oat hay is sold primarily to local horse owners. Only
farming might shift indoors to greenhouses, where the yarrow, a fresh flower, goes to regional wholesalers for
region’s flower nurseries already flourished. His observa- national distribution.
tion was prophetic. In recent years, low-cost foreign imports B.J would like to see more farmland saved,
have devastated the flower industry, so much so that grow- especially for food production. “To save agricultural
ers are now beginning to think about planting vegetables in land we’ve got to try farming in new ways. There is
greenhouses to extend the local growing season. interest here in olives for olive oil, blueberries and special
B.J., past president of the San Mateo County Farm varieties of lemons,” he says. “I don’t want to see us
Bureau and now a director and treasurer, sees other become dependent on foreign imports for our food the
factors with impact on local agriculture. “In the last two way we are for oil. The growth of farmers’ markets and
years the cost of diesel, gas and fertilizer has gone way organic producers suggests that people are taking more
up,” he says. “We have to look more carefully at local interest in where their food comes from.” By adapting
markets. The county has helped promote the special to changes in the marketplace, he says, local farms can
slogan, ‘As Fresh As It Gets.’ This can help small have a new lease on life. ■
8 ■ landscapes
The Sprout Kings
OF SAN MATEO COUNTY
Local farmers Joe Muzzi, John Giusti and Dave Lea are among the biggest producers of Brussels
sprouts in San Mateo County. Their family farms are all located on historic agricultural properties protected
by POST.
Remarkably, 99 percent of the sprouts consumed in the United States come from California, primarily
from San Mateo and Santa Cruz counties. Joe, John and Dave sell to local farmers’ markets as well as large
national grocery chains. Their sprouts, the largest crop in San Mateo County, end up at your neighborhood
grocer or favorite corner bistro and as far away as dinner tables in Boston and New York.
Brussels Sprouts
THE RENAISSANCE CROP
Part of the Cruciferae family, Brussels harvested commercially in California since
sprouts are related to cabbage, broccoli and the early 1900s.
cauliflower. Known also as brassicas, they Sprouts prefer the cool fog, ocean
are rich in vitamins A and C, folic acid breezes and well-drained soils of the coast.
and fiber. While some people dislike The edible buds grow below a broad canopy
their aromatic intensity, others savor of large green leaves, maturing in clusters
their nutty sweetness, enjoying them along the stalk from the bottom up. A single
boiled, steamed or roasted. plant can produce 80 to 100 sprouts. At
Brussels sprouts were cultivated in harvest time, workers chop the stalks down
Europe as far back as the 14th century. by hand with machetes. Lined up in
During the late 1500s, they became popular windrows, the cut stalks are fed through
in Belgium, hence the name. Thomas a harvesting machine, which strips off the
Jefferson is said to have introduced them sprouts. The veggies are then cleaned,
to North America. They have been sorted and packed for distribution. ■
fall 2008 ■ 9
© 2007 Paolo Vescia
“Years ago people bought a lot more frozen Brussels sprouts. Today people are buying more fresh produce of all kinds, including
50 to 60 percent of the sprout crop,” says Joe Muzzi.
Joe Muzzi
HISTORY IN HIS HANDS
Under the names Peninsula Farms and Bolsa and a lot of my family’s history on the land would have
Point Farms, Joe Muzzi and his sons John and Danny been plowed under,” says Joe.
farm 558 acres near Pigeon Point Lighthouse. Besides Brussels sprouts, the Muzzis also grow
Joe’s family were tenant farmers on the coast for leeks, fava beans and English peas. They process the veg-
50 years, growing crops that hadn’t changed in etables on their Bolsa Point Farms in a large white
100 years. All that time, the Muzzis leased barn POST renovated in 2002 after a major
farmland without any assurance their storm ripped off part of the roof.
place on the land was secure. But In spite of rising costs and other
that changed in 2007. Using funds challenges, Joe is optimistic about
from its Saving the Endangered coastal agriculture. “I think farm-
Coast campaign, POST bought ers will move toward growing
both farms, then re-sold them to more specialty crops and selling
the Muzzis while retaining con- in local markets to make
servation easements on the land. ends meet. I know the idea of
“Without POST and the buying local is gaining populari-
easements, we would not have ty, and I hope people in Silicon
been able to afford to buy the land. Valley will continue the trend by
It probably would have been developed, buying from local growers.”
10 ■ landscapes
John Giusti Dave Lea
CREATING THE FAMILY FARM A LIFE ON THE LAND
John Giusti grew up on the coast and followed At Dave Lea’s Cabrillo Farms, just across
his father into farming. John grows Brussels sprouts five Highway 1 from the Half Moon Bay airport, Brussels
miles south of Half Moon Bay on 534-acre Purisima sprout plants line a strip of fertile soil considered one of
Farms, which he bought from POST in 2006 after leasing the most productive agricultural tracts in California.
part of the land for six years. He also leases 121 acres of Wedged between the road and hillside, the strip is part
POST’s Johnston Ranch in Half Moon Bay. of POST’s 4,262-acre Rancho Corral de Tierra property.
In 1992, Giusti’s late father, Aldo, purchased Lea’s family has worked this land since the late
POST’s North Cowell property, where he grew sprouts, 1960s, when his father, Ed, moved the family from a
artichokes and English peas. Like Purisima Farms, the farm near Pigeon Point. Three generations of Leas have
597-acre North Cowell property, which is still owned by farmed on the San Mateo Coast since the 1920s.
the Giustis, is protected by trail and conservation ease- From his pickup truck, Dave can point to any spot
ments owned by POST as well as the California Coastal on the 220 acres he leases from POST and tell you how
Conservancy.
fall 2008 ■ 11
© 2006 Paolo Vescia
For Dave Lea and his father, Ed, there is nothing better than the thrill of working outside on a crisp, clear day surrounded by
beautiful scenery.
likely it is for sprouts to flourish. The harvest peaks pong balls. A bruise here or a brown patch there, and
from October to December, about the same time his the offending veggie gets tossed into a box on the
pumpkins appear at local roadside stands and at farmers’ ground, destined for cattle feed. The ones that pass
markets in Palo Alto and Walnut Creek. He also grows muster get sorted into two batches. Larger sprouts for
artichokes, fava beans, peas and leeks. Each crop has local farmers’ markets and grocery stores go into waxed
multiple methods of distribution: buyers who come to boxes. Smaller sprouts get diverted onto a separate con-
the farm, as well as deliveries he makes to produce veyor belt to be shipped to Watsonville. There they will
terminals, brokers, packers and restaurants. be distributed to Green Giant and Birds Eye, two of the
Without his lease arrangement with POST, Dave largest purveyors of frozen vegetables in the country.
says, it would be difficult for his family to continue to Driving back towards Highway 1, Lea passes an
work the land. “There are a lot of factors working against old horse stable that has seen better days. “That’s where
us. Our produce has to be perfect or our customers and my father lived as a boy. It wasn’t a stable back then. It
produce buyers will reject it. We have to cope with was a nice farm house, but that was a long time ago,”
weather, pests and disease. And we’re always compet- he says, eyes fixed on the road. With crops to harvest,
ing with foreign imports. But being able to farm here fields to irrigate, and shipments to distribute, there’s not
means we can keep up the family business,” he says. much time for nostalgia. Like his friends Joe Muzzi and
Back at the processing barn, about a dozen work- John Giusti, he’s too busy farming, and from the looks of
ers sort the day’s harvest. Tightly clustered green globes it, he wouldn’t have it any other way. ■
come tumbling down the conveyor belt like alien ping
12 ■ landscapes
Courtesy of Jan Garrod
14 ■ landscapes
© 2008 Sheldon Breiner
Landscapes
Landscapes is published quarterly
by Peninsula Open Space Trust
222 High Street
Palo Alto, CA 94301
Telephone: (650) 854-7696
Fax: (650) 854-7703
Web site: www.openspacetrust.org
POST is a public benefit California corporation and