How to Build an Acid/Alkaline

Water Charger.
Acid/Alkaline Water Charger Plans
Copyright© 2000. By G.D.Mutch.
Updated 09/10/03

http://atl2.netfirms.com/engy/mutch/acidalk/acidalk.htm

Contents

Introduction...................
What Is Acid/Alkaline Water ?
What is pH?

Part 2...........................
Getting Started On The Designs.
Parts List
Baffle Plates
Baffle Plate Guides
Chamois/ Membrane Filter
Part 3............................
Electrodes
Bottom End Cap

Part 4...........................
Assembling The Unit.
Using Your Charger Unit.
Filling Your Charger Unit.
Connecting the Power.
 Drinking Your Charge Water.

Part 5............................
Manufacture A Unit For Me.

Introduction Why is this charge cluster water beneficial to people ? It

has been documented by commercial manufacturing
companies that acid/alkaline water units can assist in
The latest white goods technology to hit the market helping many human ailments. Ailments like arthritis,
place is an acid/alkaline water charger. With a price tag fatty acids, metal build up in the body etc... There are
between $1000 to $1300 (Aud dated 2000) for a single many pages on the internet devoted to other peoples’
commercial unit, its not hard to see why some people testimonials as to these health benefits. I don't think
may choose to build and experiment with their own home charge cluster water can do any immediate harm to
made designs. The following plans will describe in detail people in the short term, as naturally falling rain water
how to make an acid/alkaline water charger to has a similar build up of negative charge. This type of
experiment with your own charged water at home. The unit allows people to have a type of rain water on
following plans involve simple to understand step by step demand, while at the same time allows them to use the
instructions. The price of the materials to make your own acid water for rashes and skin aliments. Acid/Alkaline
unit should set you back between $50 to $70 (Aud). water can also be used in the garden.

What is Acid/Alkaline Water ? What is pH?

What is acid/alkaline water, also known as micro-cluster
water? By placing a positive electrode in one partition of
the charger container and a negative electrode in the
other partition of the container, you can get ordinary tap
water to separate into acid water at the positive side,
and alkaline water on the negative side. The water
actually undergoes a change of its electrical state. It
does this by changing the pH level of the water. Negative
electrons are attracted to the positive protons on the
positive plate side. The negative plate partition of the
water charger builds up what is termed as a charge
cluster of negative Hydrogen ions in the water. Whereas
the positive plate partition builds up a charge of OH-
ions. Commercial units claim negative charge clusters of
around -250 to -350 mV.
The pH scale ranges from 0 on the acidic end to 14 on the
alkaline end. A solution is considered neutral if its pH is
7. At a pH of 7 water contains equal concentrations of H+
and OH- ions. Substances with a pH less than 7 are acidic
because they contain a higher concentration of H+ ions.
Substances with a pH higher than 7 are alkaline because
they contain a higher concentration of OH- than H+. The
pH scale is a log scale so a change of one pH unit means a
factor of ten in the concentration of hydrogen ions.
 2. Getting Started On The Designs :

Parts List

The first thing you will need is the following parts :

1 @ Synthetic Car Chamois [Membrane Filter]

1 @ 5mm x 160mm x 460mm PVC Pipe [Cylinder ]
4 @ 10mm x 20mm x 420mm Nylon Strip [Baffle Guides ]
2 @ 5mm x 150 mm x 420mm Acrylic or Nylon Sheet
[Baffle Plates]
2 @ 1.5mm x 50mm x 350 Stainless Steel Sheet (316)
[Electrodes] Figure 2
1 @ 20mm x 151mm dia Nylon Block [Bottom End Cap]
2 @ 10mm dia pipe fittings.(optional) [Outlets] 3.[Chamois/ Membrane Filter]
1 @ Small Tube of Silicon Sealant
2 @ 5 mm x 16 mm Stainless Nut/Bolt [Electrode Fixing]
Cut out the synthetic chamois to a slightly smaller size
26 @ 16mm x 2.5mm(4g) Screws [Fixing Screws ]
than that of your baffle plates. Place the chamois on a
1 @ 1.5mm drill bit
clean firm surface, then place one of the baffle plates on
1 @ 5mm drill bit
top of the chamois. While placing your weight on the
1 @ 6-10mm drill bit
baffle plate and chamois, mark a pencil mark around the
chamois while using the edge of the baffle plate as a
Cutting/Machining The Materials : ruler or guide. Using a pair of scissors cut the inside line
of the pencil mark on the chamois. We want the chamois
1. [Baffle Plates] (membrane filter) to be slightly smaller in size than the
baffle plates, as this prevents the chamois from jamming
Cut the baffle plate material to the correct size: 2 @ in/around the baffle guides and causing leaks. This
5mm x 150 mm x 420mm . Once you have both baffles cut scissors cut is not critical as you should still have a safety
neatly to the same size, you will then have to drill a margin of around 30mm that covers over the actual baffle
multiple of 6-10mm holes in a matrix pattern down the plate matrix of holes. You could still come in 5mm from
two baffles plates.(see figure 3) This is important as this is your original pencil mark and be quite safe with final cut.
where the 12v electric positive and negative charge Do not make any holes in this membrane filter as the
travels through the chamois membrane filter to separate water charger will not work properly. If your membrane
the water into acid/alkaline. Do not drill these holes too filter gets old or damaged, then replace the material as
near the edge of the baffle guides or near the bottom soon as possible. When the chamois is first new you
end cap, as the water will escape around the edges an should hand wash your chamois membrane filter in warm
allow the water to mix in together again. We do not want soapy water and then rinse it out in clean water and
the water to mix in together at any stage, as we wish for allow it to dry. The purpose of this is to remove any
the water to stay separated in both sides of the charger latent manufacturing chemical contaminates in the
container. It's a good idea to leave a safety margin of at chamois.
least 30mm around the edge before any holes are drilled.
The matrix can be drilled with 5 columns of 18 rows by
8mm holes, that's around 90 holes in all. Make sure you
clamp both baffle plates together neatly before drilling,
and that you drill both plates identically at the same
time. Over lapping or out of alignment holes may not
allow uniform charge to go through the water.

Handy hint : on the back of most contact paper or wall

paper there is a ruled 20mm x 20mm ink printed grid. Cut
to size a piece of this paper to use as a grid. Tape this
grid to the baffles before drilling, and then drill the
intersections of these lines. You may need to lightly
centre punch these intersection points first.

2. [Baffle Plate Guides]

If you have the plastic baffle guides material in one large

piece then you will need to cut this block of material into
4 @10mm x 20mm x 420mm plastic strips (see figure 3.)Use a
power or hand saw to get the straightest and cleanest cut
you can. You will need you use a power or hand plane to
shave one edge/corner off the entire length of these
baffle guides so that the guides sit flush with the main
cylinder/container wall, while also sitting flush with the
baffle plate. (see figure 6). To do this simply place the
baffle guides along the edge of the baffle plate material
and clamp in between two planks of wood in a vice or
similar. Using scrap piece of the 160mm PVC at
approximately 10mm wide, cut this scrap piece in half
across the diameter. You will be using this as a template
as you plane down the curve along the full length of the
baffle guide edges. (see figure 2). Plane a little off the edge
each time while placing the scrap template on the cut
edge to see if you have the curve correct. Do not remove
to much off the edges else your baffle guide will leak
water around the edge, as it won't clamp the baffle
plates tight inside the finished unit. Repeat the above
with all four baffle guides. You will have to alternate
from side to side for the correct plane angle. Try not to
loose count of each plane cut with each side.
 3. Continue On With The Designs:

4.[Electrodes]

Cut two stainless steel strips to the size 1.5mm x 50mm x

350 mm long. These are your positive and negative
electrodes. These are bolted inside near the top edge of
the main cylinder/container on opposite sides to each
other. One electrode either side of the baffle partition
will produce acid water at the positive, while alkaline
water is produce at the negative. The baffle partition and
membrane filter will prevent the water from mixing
together. These electrodes can be powered by a standard
12 volt car battery charger. You do not need heavy
current. An ordinary house hold 240volt down to 6-12 volt
handy power pack will work just the same.

NB. It has been bought to my attention that nickel can

leach from the stainless steel plates into the water if the
water electrolyte condition causes a heavy current to
pass through the plates. The experimenter may like to
replace the stainless steel electrodes with silver Figure 4
electrodes to introduce colloidal silver into the water
process. Silver adds additional health benefits to the
overall system. You may also add a resistor in series with
the power supply to further reduce current passing
through the stainless steal electrodes. You can buy
resistors from your local Dicksmith™ or Tandy™ electrical
stores.

Resistor example :

12volt power supply

Resistor in Ohms Current in mAmp
100 120 ma
1000 12 ma
10,000 1.2 ma

Drill a hole at one end in the centre of these stainless

steel plates about 15mm down from the top width edge,
an about 25 mm in from the length edge. This is the bolt
hole that will fix the electrodes to the main
cylinder/container. (See figure 4 & 5 )

5. [Bottom End Cap ] Figure 5

Here comes the tricky part. The bottom end cap is lathed
out of a 20mm thick x 160mm square block of nylon or
acrylic material. The end cap will be lathed to an
accurate finish of 151mm inside diameter. You may have
to get this bottom end cap manufactured at a machine
shop. It should cost you very little to have it done. This
end cap will fit entirely flush into the bottom of the
cylinder/container. If you wish you may lathe a 5 mm x
2mm deep groove in the centre of the outer edge to
contain a silicon bead of glue when fixing the cap into
position. You will need to use a saw or router to cut an
11mm x 10mm deep groove across the end cap diameter
inside face. In this groove is where the baffles will sit to
seal the bottom section of the baffle plates to prevent
them from leakage.(see figure 7) It is important to try an get
this groove cut out section as straight an as dead centre
as is possible. You may like to get this groove machined
at the machine shop at the same time that you have the
diameter lathed out. It is much easier to get this groove
figure 6
placed centre while it is still a square block of material.
Alternatively you may attempt to lathe the block yourself
by drilling a 10mm hole in the dead centre of the square
block, and place a nut and bolt through the material.
Place the bolt end in a drill machine an lathe the151mm
dia block with a sharp chisel or screw driver. Be sure to
fix the drill machine firmly in a vice or similar before you
start. Be careful of the drill speed, as the rotational
speed can get very large at the outer edge of the square
block. If you attempt to lathe this yourself then make
sure you cut the corners off the block before you start.
You will have to plug the10mm drill hole with a plastic
plug and silicon once you have finished lathing. Have
fun...

Do NOT fix the end cap permanently into the

cylinder/container at this stage.
 4. Assembling The Unit :

Assembling The Unit :

With all the materials cut, drilled and machined to the

above specifications, you should be ready to assemble all
the parts into their correct position. Do not fix the
bottom end cap at this time. We need to be able to work
from both the top and bottom end of the cylinder while
we place the baffle guides into position.(see figure 8) We
will be putting the end cap into position and removing it
numerous times as we finish the final assembly.

Assembly:

1. Firstly, put the bottom end cap into position do

not fix it. Assert that the end cap is flush with
the bottom of the cylinder/container. Sit the
cylinder/container in the normal up right position
on the bench top.
2. Place the now cut to size chamois between the
two baffle plates. Slide the baffle plates with the
chamois down into the container while
positioning the baffle plates firmly into the
router groove in the bottom of the end cap. Tap
the baffle plates with your hand to make sure
that they are firmly into the groove of the end
cap. If the plates appear tight, then file the outer
bottom edge of the baffle plates to a taper so
they slide in easier. You may now cut two or four
planks of thin wood 71mm wide by 200-400 mm
long. Jamb these pieces of wood either side of
the baffle plates to hold the entire plates straight
and centre most in the cylinder/container as we
fix the baffle guides.
3. Put two of the 10mm x 20mm x 420mm long
baffle guides into the container: one either side
of the baffle plates. Using your hand as a clamp
hold them firmly an assert that the guides are to
the outer most diameter hard against the inside
of the cylinder curve. Be sure that the planed
curve on the guide is the correct way out. Using a
1.5mm drill bit as a pilot hole drill outside the
cylinder an in to the baffle guide. Estimate the
drill hole at the centre position at around the
general top of these two guides: about 30mm
down. The top of baffle guides should rest
natural about 20mm down from the top of the
cylinder/container. So you will need to drill down
about 25-30mm so you don't miss the top of the
Figure 8
Using your Charger Unit.
Ok, if your charger container is sealed and there are no
apparent leaks, then you are ready to fit the baffles;
refill it with clean water and connect the power. Place
the chamois between the baffles plates and slide the
plates firmly into the baffle guides while also checking
that the baffles have gone down firmly into the groove in
the end cap.
Filling the Charger Unit
Fill your charger unit full with clean drinking water while
alternating to both sides of the container at the same
time. Fill the container till the water level is about 5mm
below the top of the baffle plates.You will notice as you
fill one side that you have slight leaking into the adjacent
partition, this is quite okay. The water will not leak
through under normal use, provided that you keep the
water height at roughly the same water level on both
sides. When first filling the container the pressure
difference of the water is causing water to push through
the chamois membrane, this is quite normal. This water
pressure difference should be avoid where possible, as it's
not desirable when you decide to empty the container of
 baffle guide. Screw a 2.5mm(4g) x 16mm screw
into the hole fixing the top end of these first two
baffle guides. (see figure 8)
4. Now using a long stick of wood remove the
bottom end cap away from the cylinder. Leave
the baffles in position. Once again holding the
bottom end of baffle guides against the baffles
and hard against the outer cylinder, drill a pilot
hole in the outer cylinder through to the centre
of baffle guides; fix a screw to hold them into
position. These two holes should be up 25-30 mm
from the bottom of the cylinder/container so you
don't miss the end of the baffle guides. Place the
bottom end cap back into position. Again check
that the baffle plates are hard down into the end
cap groove, and that the end cap is flush with the
cylinder/container bottom. Using a pencil and a
ruler, rule two parallel lines from top to bottom
along the outer side of the cylinder in the dead
centre of the 4 screw heads. Asserting that the
baffle guides are straight, an are in position, drill
two pilot holes at the dead centre of the cylinder
right on the two pencil lines. Insert two more
screws into these holes. Measure an divide either
side of these centre screws to find the middle of
the top an current centre, and the middle of the
bottom and current centre. Drill pilot holes and
screw these last four screws into position. You
should have 2 lines of 5 screws holding each of
the two baffle guides into position. (see figure 8)
Repeat step 4 above until all baffle guides are
fixed into position.
5. Once you have all baffle guides fixed into position
use a marker pen or texture to number the baffle
guides with a corresponding number on the
cylinder wall. Now undo all the screws and
remove the baffle guides (one at a time only)
away from the cylinder/container. We are now
going to place a thin layer of silicon sealant on
the fixing side of all four guides and refit them
back into their original position inside the
cylinder/container. Note the number for the
correct way around when refitting the guides.
6. Once all the baffle guides are sealed with silicon
and fixed into position, you may remove the
bottom end cap and place a bead of silicon
around the outer parameter of the end cap.
Being careful, fit the end cap back into the
cylinder container. Be sure that the end cap is
home flush and that the baffle plates once again
align with the groove in the end cap. Hit the
baffle plates down firmly to check they are firmly
into the groove of the end cap. If all is home and
flush, looking inside from the top down toward
the charged water.When you empty the charger you must
syphon off both sides of the container at exactly the
same time. This will prevent the water pressure
difference and prevent water flowing from one partition
of the container into the other.
Connecting the Power:
Using a texture or marker pen scribe a (+) symbol on one
of the electrodes, an a (-) negative symbol on the other
electrode. Place the red lead of your battery charger
onto the (+) electrode. Place the black lead onto the (-)
negative electrode. You will need to identify the polarity
of the water by determining which side of the container
is which. This is in case you decide to do some periodic
testing during the charging process, therefore you will
need to identify which electrode is which to reconnect
the battery charger leads for the same polarity.
The first time you use your water charger you will need
to leave it connected to the power supply for about 1-3
hours; depending on the water in your area. The first
thing you may notice might be the water in the positive
side of the container starting to turn a dark greenie
brown colour, while the water in the negative side will
remain clean and clear. If your charger is working
correctly you should see the above results start to
happen with in about 1 hour. If you don't see something
happen with in the hour then check that the battery
charger leads are making contact with the stainless steel
plates in the container, or that the power supply is
working as it should. I have left my own water charger
unit on for up to 10-12 hours at a time. You will
determine through trial an error how long you should
leave your water charger unit connect to the power
supply. You may like to keep a log book of your
experiments.
Drinking Your Charge Water:
As stated previously: when removing the charged water
from your charger unit, you must drain both sides of the
unit at the same time. It is advisable that you empty the
unit as soon as you disconnect the power supply. This
ensures the ion charged water cannot redistribute its ion
charge back into either partition of the charger
container. You will need two clean 4 litre containers to
contain the water when emptying the unit. The unit when
full should hold around 6.9 litres when filled to the top
water mark. Use a texture or marker pen to identify the
acid an alkaline water in both of the 4 litre storage
containers. The alkaline water should be clean, clear and
taste something like rain water. The acid water will be
 the bottom, scribe a pencil mark either side on coloured a dark greenie brown and taste brackish or stark
the outer cylinder at the very bottom of the like metal in the water. You may drink the alkaline water
cylinder where the end cap groove is. We do not internally for inner health, an use the acid water
wish to screw into the baffle plates when we fix externally on your skin and hair for outer health. By
the bottom end cap, so take note of the pencil personal preference I like to store the alkaline charge
mark you have just made. Starting about 45mm water in a glass bottle.
away from the pencil marks and 10mm up from
the bottom edge of the cylinder/container, drill Companies with commercial units recommend for the
and place 6 x 2.5mm (4g) screws around the first time user to only charge the water for a short
bottom of cylinder and through into the end cap, period, so that your body can slowly adjust to the
firmly fixing the end cap into position. cleansing an detoxifying effects. As you grow accustom to
7. Before any silicon is allowed to dry firm, remove the alkaline water you can leave the power connected to
the baffle plates from their position. Wipe any the water charger for longer periods for stronger effects.
excess silicon away from the end cap, plates and
the baffle guides. Allow your unit to dry for 24 END.
hours before you use your completed unit. Fill
the cylinder/container with water and check that
there is no leaks and that every thing looks clean
an is in the correct position.
8. You may have to hammer the top of both
electrode plates to fit the inside curved of the
cylinder. Hammer the first 50mm of the top
section of each electrode plate so that it shapes
into a curve. You should not need to curve any
more than 50mm. If you desire you may also bend
a 90 deg x 90 deg bend near the top of electrode
plates to move the electrodes closer into the
centre of the container. The top of the plates
should be flush with the top of the
cylinder/container. Drill and fit both the
Figure 9
electrode stainless steel plates into position. Fit
the electrode plates with 2 @ 5mm x 16mm
stainless steel nuts and bolts. (see figure 4&5)
9. Optionally you may drill two 10mm holes at the
bottom (just above the end cap) either side of
the container and place two hose fittings to allow
you to drain the charge water from the
container. You may also use some sort of tap
arrangement. I leave that up to you. Your
assembled unit should look something like the
grey colour picture design of figure 9.
5. Manufactured Units :

Manufactured Units

If you are unable to make one of these units for yourself then I can
possibly make a unit for you. All units will be worked out on a per quoted
price basis. The user must accept all responsibility when using these units.
Due to various water configurations in all parts of the world, I therefore
cannot guarantee the fitness of the water when used in these
experimental water charging units. Although every effort will be made to
ensure acceptable food grade quality materials will be used in all
manufacturing stages.

For further charge water inquires please send an email to :

G.D.Mutch
Model No. 2. Rockhampton, Qld, Australia.
email : pagemaster@rocknet.net.au

The acid alkaline water charger information is offered freely to all in the hope of a cleaner
better world... Should you feel obligated an in someway feel the need to contribute
something to help in this cause, then please feel free to make suggestions, donations or
contributions so that I may continue to provide further information for the betterment of life
on earth.....

Please share all your research findings with others; don't let ego and greed cloud your better
judgement...

Enjoy your water.....

G.D.Mutch
email : pagemaster@rocknet.net.au

Disclaimer:
Caution. The plans listed herein are for experimental purposes only. The above unit is assembled an used at the
user/constructors own discretion. The information here in does not guarantee the water is always fit for human or live
stock consumption. The user/constructor assumes all responsibility for the use or inability to use the above information
or machinery listed.