Mercedes Benz SLK230 1998 Manual de Taller PDF

1998 Mercedes-benz SLK230
Submodel: | Engine Type: L4 | Liters: 2.3

Fuel Delivery: FI | Fuel: GAS
Before servicing any vehicle, please be sure to read all of the following precautions, which deal with personal safety, prevention of component damage and important points to take into
consideration when servicing a motor vehicle:
Never open, service or drain the radiator or cooling system when the engine is hot; serious burns can occur from the steam and hot coolant.
Observe all applicable safety precautions when working around fuel. Whenever servicing the fuel system, always work in a well-ventilated area. Do not allow fuel spray or vapors to
come in contact with a spark, open flame or excessive heat (a hot drop light, for example). Keep a dry chemical fire extinguisher near the work area. Always keep fuel in a container
specifically designed for fuel storage; also, always properly seal fuel containers to avoid the possibility of fire or explosion. Refer to the additional fuel system precautions later in this
section.
Fuel injection systems often remain pressurized, even after the engine has been turned OFF. The fuel system pressure must be relieved before disconnecting any fuel lines. Failure
to do so may result in fire and/or personal injury.
Brake fluid often contains polyglycol ethers and polyglycols. Avoid contact with the eyes and wash your hands thoroughly after handling brake fluid. If you do get brake fluid in your
eyes, flush your eyes with clean, running water for 15 minutes. If eye irritation persists, or if you have taken brake fluid internally, seek medical assistance IMMEDIATELY.
The EPA warns that prolonged contact with used engine oil may cause a number of skin disorders, including cancer. You should make every effort to minimize your exposure to used
engine oil. Protective gloves should be worn when changing oil. Wash your hands and any other exposed skin areas as soon as possible after exposure to used engine oil. Soap and
water, or waterless hand cleaner should be used.
All new vehicles are now equipped with an air bag system. The system must be disabled before performing service on or around system components, steering column, instrument
panel components, wiring and sensors. Failure to follow safety and disabling procedures could result in accidental air bag deployment, possible personal injury and unnecessary
system repairs.
Always wear safety goggles when working with, or around, the air bag system. When carrying a non-deployed air bag, be sure the bag and trim cover are pointed away from your
body. When placing a non-deployed air bag on a work surface, always face the bag and trim cover upward, away from the surface. This will reduce the motion of the module if it is
accidentally deployed. Refer to the additional air bag system precautions later in this section.
Clean, high quality brake fluid from a sealed container is essential to the safe and proper operation of the brake system. You should always buy the correct type of brake fluid for your
vehicle. If the brake fluid becomes contaminated, completely flush the system with new fluid. Never reuse any brake fluid. Any brake fluid that is removed from the system should be
discarded. Also, do not allow any brake fluid to come in contact with a painted surface; it will damage the paint.
Never operate the engine without the proper amount and type of engine oil; doing so will result in severe engine damage.
Timing belt maintenance is extremely important. Many models utilize an interference-type, non-freewheeling engine. If the timing belt breaks, the valves in the cylinder head may
strike the pistons, causing potentially serious (also time-consuming and expensive) engine damage. Refer to the maintenance interval charts in the front of this manual for the
recommended replacement interval for the timing belt and to the timing belt section for belt replacement and inspection.
Disconnecting the negative battery cable on some vehicles may interfere with the functions of the on-board computer system(s) and may require the computer to undergo a relearning
process once the negative battery cable is reconnected.
When servicing drum brakes, only disassemble and assemble one side at a time, leaving the remaining side intact for reference.
Only an MVAC-trained, EPA-certified automotive technician should service the air conditioning system or its components.

A basic vehicle cooling system consists of a radiator, water pump, thermostat, electric or engine-driven cooling fan, and hoses. Electric cooling fans are common on today's vehicles due to
engine compartment space limitations or engine layout. Electric cooling fans operate in either a pusher or a puller capacity. A pusher type fan is typically mounted on the front of the radiator
assembly and forces air through the radiator, whereas a puller type fan is mounted on the engine side of the radiator and draws air through the grill and radiator assembly. Vehicles that
utilize a transversely-mounted engine will always be equipped with at least one electric cooling fan (most having two), because none of the engine pulleys are inline with the radiator air-flow.
Typical dual fan set-up, showing common cooling fan system
control components used on many vehicles with A/C
There are generally two types of electric cooling fans: primary cooling fans and secondary cooling fans. Primary cooling fans are typically of the puller style. Vehicles that do not incorporate
an engine-driven mechanical cooling fan will utilize a primary cooling fan. The secondary cooling fan, also known as a A/C condenser fan or auxiliary cooling fan by certain manufacturers,
could be of either a pusher or a puller style. Vehicles equipped with A/C will either utilize the radiator cooling fan or a separate fan as the A/C condenser cooling fan (which performs the
same function as an auxiliary cooling fan on vehicles with a primary mechanical fan). The engine control computer that receives inputs from various sensors in the engine compartment
commonly controls electric cooling fans. The engine control computer receives inputs from the engine coolant temperature sensors and A/C system pressure switches, then actuates the
necessary cooling fan relays to engage the applicable cooling fan for the condition. On models equipped with only one electric primary cooling fan, the fan can operate at two speeds: low
speed and high speed. The low speed condition is enabled when the engine begins to heat up or when the A/C is engaged. As the engine demands more cooling, the cooling fan will be
stepped-up to high speed.

Puller Type
NOTE: It may be simpler to remove the cooling fan(s) with the radiator as an assembly.
1.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2.
Inspect the cooling fan and take note of any wires, hoses or A/C lines which may hamper fan removal. Also at this time, decide whether it is necessary to remove the fan along
with the radiator or not.
3.
Position aside all wires, hoses and A/C lines for fan removal. It may not always be possible to create enough clearance for fan removal by simply moving these obstructions
aside; often they must be disconnected. If any cooling system lines must be disconnected, drain and recycle the engine coolant. If any of the A/C lines must be disconnected, the
A/C system will need to be discharged and evacuated by a MVAC-trained technician using an approved recovery machine.
Exploded view of a typical dual cooling fan set-up and related
cooling system components
4.
Disengage the cooling fan wiring harness connector.
5.
If the fan can be removed without the radiator, perform the following:
6.
A.
Loosen the mounting fasteners. Usually there are two nuts or bolts along the top edge of the cooling fan shroud and either two retaining clips or bolts along the
bottom edge.
B.
Carefully lift the fan up and out of the engine compartment, making sure that no wires or hoses get hung up on it.
If it is necessary to remove the radiator for fan removal, perform the following:
A.
Disconnect all cooling system hoses from it after draining the cooling system.
B.
Locate all of the radiator mounting fasteners (usually two or more nuts or bolts along the top, possibly two along the bottom).
NOTE: Quite a few radiators are secured along the bottom by two posts which fit into rubber grommets. The rubber grommets help isolate
the radiator from harsh vibrations in the frame. If no nuts or bolts can be located along the bottom of the radiator, chances are that the
radiator is secured with the posts and grommets.
C.
Lift the radiator and cooling fan up and out of the engine compartment together.
D.
Separate the cooling fan from the radiator by removing the attaching fasteners.
To remove a puller type cooling fan, first detach any braces
(1), wires (2) or other obstructions...
... including cooling system hoses, to allow fan removal
Disengage the fan wiring connector(s)...
... and loosen all fan mounting fasteners
Separate the fan from the radiator...
..., then lift the fan up and out of the engine compartment
To install:
7.
If applicable, install the cooling fan on the radiator.
8.
Install the cooling fan and shroud assembly (also the radiator if necessary). Tighten the fan shroud mounting bolts.
9.
Reattach all wires, hoses and A/C lines as applicable. If the A/C lines were detached, the system must be evacuated and recharged by a MVAC-trained technician.
10.
If drained, refill and bleed the cooling system.
11.
Reattach the cooling fan electrical harness connector.
12.
Connect the negative battery cable.
13.
Start the engine and check for leaks.
14.
Verify the operation of the cooling fan(s).

Typical mounting of a puller type cooling fan assembly
utilizing retaining clips and screws note that this particular
model uses a dual puller fan setup
Notice the slots in the bottom of the radiator, in which the fan
housing posts rest common mounting of a puller type
cooling fan.
This fan mounts to the fan shroud, then the shroud mounts to
the radiator molded clips in the radiator hold the bottom in
place and screws at the top.
Typically the cooling fan is rubber mounted to isolate vibration

and noise usually the rubber grommets are located at the
mount, verify their position before installation
Pusher Type
Vehicles that utilize the pusher type of electric cooling fan, may require the removal of the grilles and/or upper radiator shroud in order to gain access the fasteners that mount the fan
assembly in the vehicle.
1.
2.
Access the cooling fan.
3.
Label and disconnect the cooling fan electrical harness.
4.
Remove the fasteners that mount the cooling fan to the A/C condenser or radiator.
5.
Lift the cooling fan out of the vehicle.
NOTE: It may be necessary to loosen the mounting bolts for the A/C condenser to the body
After removal of the grill assembly, the pusher type of cooling

fan can be removed
It may be necessary to remove the grill assembly to access

the A/C condenser cooling fan pusher type
To install:
6.
Insert the cooling fan into the vehicle.
7.
Mount the cooling fan to the A/C condenser or radiator
8.
Connect the cooling fan electrical harness.
9.
If removed, install any shrouding or grills.
10.

When diagnosing an inoperative cooling fan it may be necessary to use a diagnostic scan tool to monitor engine coolant temperature and the engine control computer.
1.
Perform a visual inspection of the cooling fan. If the fan does not turn with ease, the fan motor is seized and needs to be replaced.
2.
Check all the fuses and fusible links related to the cooling fan circuit.
3.
Check the integrity of the electrical connections related to the cooling fan circuit.
4.
Check the cooling fan motor.
5.
Check the relays associated with the cooling fan circuit.
6.
Using a scan tool, determine if the engine control computer is calling for the fan to activate.
Cooling Fan Motor
1.
2.
Disengage the cooling fan motor connector.
3.
Identify and label the ground and the power terminals of the cooling fan connector using the wiring diagrams provided.
4.
Using jumper leads with a fuse in series, apply battery voltage to the appropriate terminals of the cooling fan.
5.
The cooling fan should operate. If not, replace the cooling fan.
If the cooling fan functions properly during this test, proceed to the cooling fan relay test.
Cooling Fan Relay
1.
Turn the ignition OFF.
2.
Remove the relay.
3.
Locate the two terminals on the relay, which are connected to the coil windings. Check the relay coil for continuity. Connect the common meter lead to terminal 85 and positive
meter lead to terminal 86. There should be continuity. If not, replace the relay.
Use an ohmmeter to check for circuit continuity of the coil in
the relay
4.
Check the operation of the internal relay contacts.

A.
Connect the meter leads to terminals 30 and 87. Meter polarity does not matter for this step.
B.
Apply positive battery voltage to terminal 86 and ground to terminal 85. The relay should click as the contacts are drawn toward the coil and the meter should
indicate continuity. Replace the relay if your results are different.
If the relay functions properly during this test, inspect the coolant temperature sensor and the cooling fan system wiring for defects.
Terminal identification of the most common types of relays.
Diodes and resistors in the relay prevent voltage spikes
induced when the current is removed from the coil from
damaging electronic components
DIA. 42 - 199701 Mercedes-Benz C220 / C280 2.2L / 2.8L
DIA. 43 - 199701 Mercedes-Benz E320 / E420 3.2L / 4.2L
DIA. 44 - 199701 Mercedes-Benz S320 / S420 / S501 3.2L

/ 4.2L / 5.0L

An oxygen (O2S) sensor is an input device used by the engine control computer to monitor the amount of oxygen in the exhaust gas stream. The information is used by the computer, along
with other inputs, to fine-tune the air/fuel mixture so that the engine can run with the greatest efficiency in all conditions. The O2S sensor sends this information to the computer in the form of
a 100900 millivolt (mV) reference signal. The signal is actually created by the O2S sensor itself through chemical interactions between the sensor tip material (zirconium dioxide in almost
all cases) and the oxygen levels in the exhaust gas stream and ambient atmosphere gas. At operating temperatures, approximately 1100F (600C), the element becomes a
semiconductor. Essentially, through the differing levels of oxygen in the exhaust gas stream and in the surrounding atmosphere, the sensor creates a voltage signal that is directly and
consistently related to the concentration of oxygen in the exhaust stream. Typically, a higher than normal amount of oxygen in the exhaust stream indicates that not all of the available
oxygen was used in the combustion process, because there was not enough fuel (lean condition) present. Inversely, a lower than normal concentration of oxygen in the exhaust stream
indicates that a large amount was used in the combustion process, because a larger than necessary amount of fuel was present (rich condition). Thus, the engine control computer can
correct the amount of fuel introduced into the combustion chambers.
Since the control computer uses the O2S sensor output voltage as an indication of the oxygen concentration, and the oxygen concentration directly affects O2S sensor output, the signal
voltage from the sensor to the computer fluctuates constantly. This fluctuation is caused by the nature of the interaction between the computer and the O2S sensor, which follows a general
pattern: detect, compare, compensate, detect, compare, compensate, etc. This means that when the computer detects a lean signal from the O2S sensor, it compares the reading with
known parameters stored within its memory. It calculates that there is too much oxygen present in the exhaust gases, so it compensates by adding more fuel to the air/fuel mixture. This, in
turn, causes the O2S sensor to send a rich signal to the computer, which, then compares this new signal, and adjusts the air/fuel mixture again. This pattern constantly repeats itself: detect
rich, compare, compensate lean, detect lean, compare, compensate rich, etc. Since the O2S sensor fluctuates between rich and lean, and because the lean limit for sensor output is 100
mV and the rich limit is 900 mV, the proper voltage signal from a normally functioning O2S sensor consistently fluctuates between 100300 and 700900 mV.
NOTE: The sensor voltage may never quite reach 100 or 900 mV, but it should fluctuate from at least below 300 mV to above 700 mV, and the mid-point of the
fluctuations should be centered around 500 mV.
To improve O2S sensor efficiency, newer O2S sensors were designed with a built-in heating element, and were called Heated O2S (HO2S) sensors. This heating element was incorporated
into the sensor so that the sensor would reach optimal operating temperature quicker, meaning that the O2S sensor output signal could be used by the engine control computer sooner.
Because the sensor reaches optimal temperature quicker, modern vehicles enjoy improved driveability and fuel economy even before the engine reaches normal operating temperature.
On-Board Diagnostics second generation (OBD-II), an updated system based on the former OBD-I, calls for additional O2S sensors to be used after the catalytic converter, so that catalytic
converter efficiency can be measured by the vehicle's engine control computer. The O2S sensors mounted in the exhaust system after the catalytic converters are not used to affect air/fuel
mixture; they are used solely to monitor catalytic converter efficiency.
A cut away view of a Heated Oxygen (HO2S) sensor
O2S sensor output voltage vs. mixture ratio

When testing or servicing an Oxygen (O2S) sensor you will need to start and warm the engine to operating temperature in order to either perform the necessary testing procedures or to
easily remove the sensor from its fitting. This will create a situation in which you will be working around a HOT exhaust system. The following is a list of precautions to consider during this
service:
Do not pierce any wires when testing an O2S sensor, as this can lead to wiring harness damage. Backprobe the connector, when necessary.
While testing the sensor, be sure to keep out of the way of moving engine components, such as the cooling fan. Refrain from wearing loose clothing that may become tangled in
moving engine components.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times when working on or near the exhaust system. Older exhaust systems may be covered with loose rust particles that can shower you when
disturbed. These particles are more than a nuisance and can injure your eye.
Be cautious when working on and around the hot exhaust system. Painful burns will result if skin is exposed to the exhaust system pipes or manifolds.
The O2S sensor may be difficult to remove when the engine temperature is below 120F (48C). Excessive force may damage the threads in the exhaust manifold or pipe, therefore
always start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature prior to removal.
Since O2S sensors are usually designed with a permanently attached wiring pigtail (this allows the wiring harness and sensor connectors to be positioned away from the hot exhaust
system), it may be necessary to use a socket or wrench that is designed specifically for this purpose. Before purchasing such a socket, be sure that you can't save some money by
using a box end wrench for sensor removal.

The best, and most accurate method to test the operation of an Oxygen (O2S) sensor is with the use of either an oscilloscope or a Diagnostic Scan Tool (DST), following their specific
instructions for testing. It is possible, however, to test whether the O2S sensor is functioning properly within general parameters using a Digital Volt-Ohmmeter (DVOM), also referred to as a
Digital Multi-Meter (DMM). Newer DMM's are often designed to perform many advanced diagnostic functions. Some are constructed to be used as an oscilloscope. Two in-vehicle testing
procedures, and 1 bench test procedure, will be provided for the common zirconium dioxide O2S sensor. The first in-vehicle test makes use of a standard DVOM with a 10 megohms
impedance, whereas the second in-vehicle test presented necessitates the usage of an advanced DMM with MIN/MAX/Average functions. Both of these in-vehicle test procedures are likely
to set Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) in the engine control computer. Therefore, after testing, be sure to clear all DTC's before retesting the sensor, if necessary.
These are some of the common DTC's which may be set during testing:
Open in the O2S sensor circuit
Constant low voltage in the O2S sensor circuit
Constant high voltage in the O2S sensor circuit
Other fuel system problems could set a O2S sensor code
NOTE: Because an improperly functioning fuel delivery and/or control system can adversely affect the O2S sensor voltage output signal, testing only the O2S sensor
is an inaccurate method for diagnosing an engine driveability problem.
If after testing the sensor, the sensor is thought to be defective because of high or low readings, be sure to check that the fuel delivery and engine management system is working properly
before condemning the O2S sensor. Otherwise, the new O2S sensor may continue to register the same high or low readings.
Often, by testing the O2S sensor, another problem in the engine control management system can be diagnosed. If the sensor appears to be defective while installed in the vehicle, perform
the bench test. If the sensor functions properly during the bench test, chances are that there may be a larger problem in the vehicle's fuel delivery and/or control system.
Many things can cause an O2S sensor to fail, including old age, antifreeze contamination, physical damage, prolonged exposure to overly-rich exhaust gases, and exposure to silicone
sealant fumes. Be sure to remedy any such condition prior to installing a new sensor, otherwise the new sensor may be damaged as well.
NOTE: Perform a visual inspection of the sensor. Black sooty deposits may indicate a rich air/fuel mixture, brown deposits may indicate an oil consumption problem,
and white gritty deposits may indicate an internal coolant leak. All of these conditions can destroy a new sensor if not corrected before installation.
Oxygen (O2S) Sensor Terminal Identification

The easiest method for determining sensor terminal identification is to use a wiring diagram for the vehicle and engine in question. However, if a wiring diagram is not available there is a
method for determining terminal identification. Throughout the testing procedures, the following terms will be used for clarity:
Vehicle harness connector this refers to the connector on the wires which are attached to the vehicle, NOT the connector at the end of the sensor pigtail
Sensor pigtail connector this refers to the connector attached to the sensor itself
Oxygen (O2S) sensor circuit this refers to the circuit in a Heated Oxygen (HO2S) sensor which corresponds to the oxygen-sensing function of the sensor; NOT the heating element
circuit
Heating circuit this refers to the circuit in a HO2S sensor which is designed to warm the HO2S sensor quickly to improve driveability
Sensor Output ( SOUT) terminal this is the terminal which corresponds to the O2S circuit output. This is the terminal that will register the millivolt signals created by the sensor
based upon the amount of oxygen in the exhaust gas stream.
Sensor Ground ( SGND) terminal when a sensor is so equipped, this refers to the O2S circuit ground terminal. Many O2S sensors are not equipped with a ground wire, rather
they utilize the exhaust system for the ground circuit.
Heating Power ( HPWR) terminal this terminal corresponds to the circuit which provides the O2S sensor heating circuit with power when the ignition key is turned to the ON or
RUN positions
Heating Ground ( HGND) terminal this is the terminal connected to the heating circuit ground wire
Wiring schematic of typical 1-, 2-, 3- and 4-wire oxygen
sensor circuits
1-WIRE SENSOR
1-wire sensors are by far the easiest to determine sensor terminal identification, but this is self-evident. On 1-wire O2S sensors, the single wire terminal is the SOUT and the exhaust
system is used to provide the sensor ground pathway. Proceed to the test procedures.
2-WIRE SENSOR
On 2-wire sensors, one of the connector terminals is the SOUT and the other is the SGND. To determine which one is which, perform the following:
1.
Locate the Oxygen (O2S) sensor and its pigtail connector. It may be necessary to raise and safely support the vehicle to gain access to the connector.
2.
Start the engine and allow it to warm up to normal operating temperature, then turn the engine OFF.
3.
Using a Digital Volt Ohm Meter (DVOM) set to read 100900 mV (millivolts) DC, backprobe the positive DVOM lead to one of the unidentified terminals and attach the negative
lead to a good engine ground.
CAUTION
While the engine is running, keep clear of all moving and hot components. Do not wear loose clothing. Otherwise severe personal injury or death may occur.
4.
Have an assistant restart the engine and allow it to idle.
5.
Check the DVOM for voltage.
6.
If no voltage is evident, check your DVOM leads to ensure that they are properly connected to the terminal and engine ground. If still no voltage is evident at the first terminal,
move the positive meter lead to backprobe the second terminal.
7.
If voltage is now present, the positive meter lead is attached to the SOUT terminal. The remaining terminal is the SGND terminal. If still no voltage is evident, either the O2S
sensor is defective or the meter leads are not making adequate contact with the engine ground and terminal contacts; clean the contacts and retest. If still no voltage is evident,
the sensor is defective.
8.
Have your assistant turn the engine OFF.
9.
Label the sensor pigtail SOUT and SGND terminals.
10.
Proceed to the test procedures.
3-WIRE SENSOR
NOTE: 3-wire sensors are HO2S sensors.
On 3-wire sensors, one of the connector terminals is the SOUT, one of the terminals is the HPWR and the other is the HGND. The SGND is achieved through the exhaust system, as
with the 1-wire O2S sensor. To identify the 3 terminals, perform the following:
1.
Locate the O2S sensor and its pigtail connector. It may be necessary to raise and safely support the vehicle to gain access to the connector.
2.
Disengage the sensor pigtail connector from the vehicle harness connector.
3.
Using a Digital Volt Ohm Meter (DVOM) set to read 12 volts, attach the DVOM ground lead to a good engine ground.
4.
Have an assistant turn the ignition switch ON without actually starting the engine.
5.
Probe all 3 terminals in the vehicle harness connector. One of the terminals should exhibit 12 volts of power with the ignition key ON; this is the HPWR terminal.
A.
If the HPWR terminal was identified, note which of the sensor harness connector terminals is the HPWR, then match the vehicle harness connector to the sensor
pigtail connector. Label the corresponding sensor pigtail connector terminal with HPWR.
B.
If none of the terminals showed 12 volts of power, locate and test the heater relay or fuse. Then, perform Steps 36 again.
6.
7.
Have your assistant turn the ignition OFF.
8.
Using the DVOM set to measure resistance (ohms), attach one of the leads to the HPWR terminal of the sensor pigtail connector. Use the other lead to probe the 2 remaining
terminals of the sensor pigtail connector, one at a time. The DVOM should show continuity with only one of the remaining unidentified terminals; this is the HGND terminal. The
remaining terminal is the SOUT.
9.
A.
If continuity was found with only one of the 2 unidentified terminals, label the HGND and SOUT terminals on the sensor pigtail connector.
B.
If no continuity was evident, or if continuity was evident from both unidentified terminals, the O2S sensor is defective.
All 3-wire terminals should now be labeled on the sensor pigtail connector. Proceed with the test procedures.
4-WIRE SENSOR
NOTE: 4-wire sensors are HO2S sensors.
On 4-wire sensors, one of the connector terminals is the SOUT, one of the terminals is the SGND, one of the terminals is the HPWR and the other is the HGND. To identify the 4
terminals, perform the following:
1.
Locate the O2S sensor and its pigtail connector. It may be necessary to raise and safely support the vehicle to gain access to the connector.
2.
3.
Using a Digital Volt Ohm Meter (DVOM) set to read 12 volts, attach the DVOM ground lead to a good engine ground.
4.
Have an assistant turn the ignition switch ON without actually starting the engine.
5.
Probe all 4 terminals in the vehicle harness connector. One of the terminals should exhibit 12 volts of power with the ignition key ON; this is the HPWR terminal.
A.
If the HPWR terminal was identified, note which of the sensor harness connector terminals is the HPWR, then match the vehicle harness connector to the sensor
pigtail connector. Label the corresponding sensor pigtail connector terminal with HPWR.
B.
If none of the terminals showed 12 volts of power, locate and test the heater relay or fuse. Then, perform Steps 26 again.
6.
Have your assistant turn the ignition OFF.
7.
Using the DVOM set to measure resistance (ohms), attach one of the leads to the HPWR terminal of the sensor pigtail connector. Use the other lead to probe the 3 remaining
terminals of the sensor pigtail connector, one at a time. The DVOM should show continuity with only one of the remaining unidentified terminals; this is the HGND terminal.
A.
If continuity was found with only 1 of the 2 unidentified terminals, label the HGND terminal on the sensor pigtail connector.
B.
If no continuity was evident, or if continuity was evident from all unidentified terminals, the O2S sensor is defective.
C.
If continuity was found at 2 of the other terminals, the sensor is probably defective. However, the sensor may not necessarily be defective, because it may have
been designed with the 2 ground wires joined inside the sensor in case one of the ground wires is damaged; the other circuit could still function properly. Though,
this is highly unlikely. A wiring diagram is necessary in this particular case to know whether the sensor was so designed.
8.
Reattach the sensor pigtail connector to the vehicle harness connector.
9.
10.
Using a DVOM set to read 100900 mV (millivolts) DC, backprobe the negative DVOM lead to one of the unidentified terminals and the positive lead to the other unidentified
terminal.
CAUTION
11.
Have an assistant restart the engine and allow it to idle.
12.
Check the DVOM for voltage.

A.
If no voltage is evident, check your DVOM leads to ensure that they are properly connected to the terminals. If still no voltage is evident at either of the terminals,
either the terminals were accidentally marked incorrectly or the sensor is defective.
B.
If voltage is present, but the polarity is reversed (the DVOM will show a negative voltage amount), turn the engine OFF and swap the 2 DVOM leads on the
terminals. Start the engine and ensure that the voltage now shows the proper polarity.
C.
If voltage is evident and is the proper polarity, the positive DVOM lead is attached to the SOUT and the negative lead to the SGND terminals.
13.
Have your assistant turn the engine OFF.
14.
Label the sensor pigtail SOUT and SGND terminals.
In-Vehicle Tests
WARNING
Never apply voltage to the O2S circuit of the sensor, otherwise it may be damaged. Also, never connect an ohmmeter (or a DVOM set on the ohm function) to both of the O2S circuit
terminals (
SOUT and
SGND) of the sensor pigtail connector; it may damage the sensor.
Test 1 makes use of a standard DVOM with a 10 megohms impedance, whereas Test 2 necessitates the usage of an advanced Digital Multi-Meter (DMM) with MIN/MAX/Average
functions or a sliding bar graph function. Both of these in-vehicle test procedures are likely to set Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) in the engine control computer. Therefore, after testing, be
sure to clear all DTC's before retesting the sensor, if necessary. The third in-vehicle test is designed for the use of a scan tool or oscilloscope. The 4th test (Heating Circuit Test) is designed
to check the function of the heating circuit in a HO2S sensor.
NOTE: If the O2S sensor being tested is designed to use the exhaust system for the SGND, excessive corrosion between the exhaust and the O2S sensor may affect
sensor functioning.
The in-vehicle tests may be performed for O2S sensors located in the exhaust system after the catalytic converter. However, the O2S sensors located behind the catalytic converter will not
fluctuate like the sensors mounted before the converter, because the converter, when functioning properly, emits a steady amount of oxygen. If the O2S sensor mounted after the catalytic
converter exhibits a fluctuating signal (like other O2S sensors), the catalytic converter is most likely defective.
To test the O2S sensor, locate it and its connector (inset),
which should be positioned away from the exhaust system to
prevent heat damage.
TEST 1 DIGITAL VOLT-OHMMETER

This test will not only verify proper sensor functioning, but is also designed to ensure the engine control computer and associated wiring is functioning properly as well.
1.
Start the engine and allow it to warm up to normal operating temperature.

NOTE: If you are using the opening of the thermostat to gauge normal operating temperature, be forewarned: a defective thermostat can open too early
and prevent the engine from reaching normal operating temperature. This can cause a slightly rich condition in the exhaust, which can throw the O2S
sensor readings off slightly.
2.
Turn the ignition switch OFF, then locate the O2S sensor pigtail connector.
3.
Perform a visual inspection of the connector to ensure it is properly engaged and all terminals are straight, tight and free from corrosion or damage.
4.
5.
On sensors equipped with a SGND terminal (sensors which do not use the exhaust system for the sensor ground pathway), connect a jumper wire to the SGND terminal and to
a good, clean engine ground (preferably the negative terminal of the battery).
6.
Using a Digital Volt Ohm Meter (DVOM) set to read DC voltage, attach the positive lead to the SOUT terminal of the sensor pigtail connector, and the DVOM negative lead to a
good engine ground.
CAUTION
7.
Have an assistant start the engine and hold it at approximately 2000 rpm. Wait at least 1 minute before commencing with the test to allow the O2S sensor to sufficiently warm
up.
8.
Using a jumper wire, connect the SOUT terminal of the vehicle harness connector to a good engine ground. This will fool the engine control computer into thinking it is
receiving a lean signal from the O2S sensor,, therefore, the computer will richen the air/fuel ratio. With the SOUT terminal so grounded, the DVOM should register at least 800
mV, as the control computer adds additional fuel to the air/fuel ratio.
9.
While observing the DVOM, disconnect the vehicle harness connector SOUT jumper wire from the engine ground. Use the jumper wire to apply slightly less than 1 volt to the
SOUT terminal of the vehicle harness connector. One method to do this is by grasping and squeezing the end of the jumper between your forefinger and thumb of one hand while
touching the positive terminal of the battery post with your other hand. This allows your body to act as a resistor for the battery positive voltage, and fools the engine control
computer into thinking it is receiving a rich signal. Or, use a mostly-drained AA battery by connecting the positive terminal of the AA battery to the jumper wire and the negative
terminal of the battery to a good engine ground. (Another jumper wire may be necessary to do this.) The computer should lean the air/fuel mixture out. This lean mixture should
register as 150 mV or less on the DVOM.
10.
If the DVOM did not register millivoltages as indicated, the problem may be either the sensor, the engine control computer or the associated wiring. Perform the following to
determine which is the defective component:
A.
Remove the vehicle harness connector SOUT jumper wire.
B.
While observing the DVOM, artificially enrich the air/fuel charge using propane. The DVOM reading should register higher than normal millivoltages. (Normal
voltage for an ideal air/fuel mixture is approximately 450550 mV DC). Then, lean the air/fuel intake charger by either disconnecting one of the fuel injector wiring
harness connectors (to prevent the injector from delivering fuel) or by detaching 1 or 2 vacuum lines (to add additional non-metered air into the engine). The DVOM
should now register lower than normal millivoltages. If the DVOM functioned as indicated, the problem lies elsewhere in the fuel delivery and control system. If the
DVOM readings were still unresponsive, the O2S sensor is defective; replace the sensor and retest.
NOTE: Poor wire connections and/or ground circuits may shift a normal O2S sensor's millivoltage readings up into the rich range or down
into the lean range. It is a good idea to check the wire condition and continuity before replacing a component that will not fix the problem. A
voltage drop test between the sensor case and ground which reveals 1416 mV or more, indicates a probable bad ground.
11.
Turn the engine OFF, remove the DVOM and all associated jumper wires. Reattach the vehicle harness connector to the sensor pigtail connector. If applicable, reattach the fuel
injector wiring connector and/or the vacuum line(s).
12.
Clear any DTC's present in the engine control computer memory, as necessary.
TEST 2 DIGITAL MULTI-METER

This test method is a more straight-forward O2S sensor test, and does not test the engine control computer's response to the O2S sensor signal. The use of a DMM with the
MIN/MAX/Average function or sliding bar graph/wave function is necessary for this test. Don't forget that the O2S sensor mounted after the catalytic converter (if equipped) will not fluctuate
like the other O2S sensor(s) will.
1.
Start the engine and allow it to warm up to normal operating temperature.

NOTE: If you are using the opening of the thermostat to gauge normal operating temperature, be forewarned: a defective thermostat can open too early
and prevent the engine from reaching normal operating temperature. This can cause a slightly rich condition in the exhaust, which can throw the O2S
sensor readings off slightly.
2.
Turn the ignition switch OFF, then locate the O2S sensor pigtail connector.
3.
4.
Backprobe the O2S sensor connector terminals. Attach the DMM positive test lead to the SOUT terminal of the sensor pigtail connector. Attach the negative lead to either the
SGND terminal of the sensor pigtail connector (if equipped, refer to the terminal identification procedures earlier in this section for clarification) or to a good, clean engine ground.
5.
Activate the MIN/MAX/Average or sliding bar graph/wave function on the DMM.

CAUTION
6.
Have an assistant start the engine and wait a few minutes before commencing with the test to allow the O2S sensor to sufficiently warm up.
7.
Read the minimum, maximum and average readings exhibited by the O2S sensor or observe the bar graph/wave form. The average reading for a properly functioning O2S
sensor is be approximately 450550 mV DC. The minimum and maximum readings should vary more than 300600 mV. A typical O2S sensor can fluctuate from as low as
100 mV to as high as 900 mV; if the sensor range of fluctuation is not large enough, the sensor is defective. Also, if the fluctuation range is biased up or down in the scale. For
example, if the fluctuation range is 400 mV to 900 mV the sensor is defective, because the readings are pushed up into the rich range (as long as the fuel delivery system is
functioning properly). The same goes for a fluctuation range pushed down into the lean range. The mid-point of the fluctuation range should be around 400500 mV. Finally, if the
O2S sensor voltage fluctuates too slowly (usually the voltage wave should oscillate past the mid-way point of 500 mV several times per second) the sensor is defective. (When
an O2S sensor fluctuates too slowly, it is referred to as being "lazy.")
NOTE: Poor wire connections and/or ground circuits may shift a normal O2S sensor's millivoltage readings up into the rich range or down into the lean
range. It is a good idea to check the wire condition and continuity before replacing a component that will not fix the problem. A voltage drop test between
the sensor case and ground which reveals 1416 mV or more, indicates a probable bad ground.
8.
Using the propane method, richen the air/fuel mixture and observe the DMM readings. The average O2S sensor output signal voltage should rise into the rich range.
9.
Lean the air/fuel mixture by either disconnecting a fuel injector wiring harness connector or by disconnecting a vacuum line. The O2S sensor average output signal voltage
should drop into the lean range.
10.
If the O2S sensor did not react as indicated, the sensor is defective and should be replaced.
11.
Turn the engine OFF, remove the DMM and all associated jumper wires. Reattach the vehicle harness connector to the sensor pigtail connector. If applicable, reattach the fuel
injector wiring connector and/or the vacuum line(s).
12.
TEST 3 OSCILLOSCOPE
This test is designed for the use of an oscilloscope to test the functioning of an O2S sensor.
NOTE: This test is only applicable for O2S sensors mounted in the exhaust system before the catalytic converter.
1.
Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature.
2.
Turn the engine OFF, and locate the O2S sensor connector. Backprobe the scope lead to the O2S sensor connector SOUT terminal. Refer to the manufacturer's instructions for
more information on attaching the scope to the vehicle.
3.
Turn the scope ON.
4.
Set the oscilloscope amplitude to 200 mV per division, and the time to 1 second per division. Use the 1:1 setting of the probe, and be sure to connect the scope's ground lead to
a good, clean engine ground. Set the signal function to automatic or internal triggering.
5.
Start the engine and run it at 2000 rpm.
6.
The oscilloscope should display a wave form, representative of the O2S sensor switching between lean (100300 mV) and rich (700900 mV). The sensor should switch
between rich and lean, or lean and rich (crossing the mid-point of 500 mV) several times per second. Also, the range of each wave should reach at least above 700 mV and
below 300 mV. However, an occasional low peak is acceptable.
7.
Force the air/fuel mixture rich by introducing propane into the engine, then observe the oscilloscope readings. The fluctuating range of the O2S sensor should climb into the rich
range.
8.
Lean the air/fuel mixture out by either detaching a vacuum line or by disengaging one of the fuel injector's wiring connectors. Watch the scope readings; the O2S sensor wave
form should drop toward the lean range.
9.
If the O2S sensor's wave form does not fluctuate adequately, is not centered around 500 mV during normal engine operation, does not climb toward the rich range when propane
is added to the engine, or does not drop toward the lean range when a vacuum hose or fuel injector connector is detached, the sensor is defective.
10.
Reattach the fuel injector connector or vacuum hose.
11.
Disconnect the oscilloscope from the vehicle.

An oscilloscope wave form of a typical good O2S sensor as it
fluctuates from rich to lean
HEATING CIRCUIT TEST

The heating circuit in an O2S sensor is designed only to heat the sensor quicker than a non-heated sensor. This provides an advantage of increased engine driveability and fuel economy
while the engine temperature is still below normal operating temperature, because the fuel management system can enter closed loop operation (more efficient than open loop operation)
sooner.
Therefore, if the heating element goes bad, the O2S sensor may still function properly once the sensor warms up to its normal temperature. This will take longer than normal and may cause
mild driveability-related problems while the engine has not reached normal operating temperature.
If the heating element is found to be defective, replace the O2S sensor without wasting your time testing the O2S circuit. If necessary, you can perform the O2S circuit test with the new
O2S sensor and save yourself some time.
1.
Locate the O2S sensor pigtail connector.
The heating circuit of the O2S sensor can be tested with a

DMM set to measure resistance
2.
3.
4.
Using a DVOM set to read resistance (ohms), attach 1 DVOM test lead to the HPWR terminal, and the other lead to the HGND terminal, of the sensor pigtail connector, then
observe the resistance readings.
A.
If there is no continuity between the HPWR and HGND terminals, the sensor is defective. Replace it with a new one and retest.
B.
If there is continuity between the 2 terminals, but the resistance is greater than approximately 20 ohms, the sensor is defective. Replace it with a new one and
retest.
C.
If there is continuity between the 2 terminals and it is less than 20 ohms, the sensor is probably not defective. Because of the large diversity of engine control
systems used in vehicles today, O2S sensor heating circuit resistance specifications change often. Generally, the amount of resistance an O2S sensor heating
circuit should exhibit is between 29 ohms. However, some manufacturer's O2S sensors may show resistance as high as 1520 ohms. As a rule of thumb, 20
ohms of resistance is the upper limit allowable.
NOTE: For the following step, the HO2S sensor should be approximately 75F (23C) for the proper resistance values.
5.
Turn the engine OFF, remove the DVOM and all associated jumper wires. Reattach the vehicle harness connector to the sensor pigtail connector.
6.
Bench Test
NOTE: Utilize one of the in-vehicle tests before performing this test.
This test is designed to test an O2S sensor which does not seem to fluctuate fully beyond 400700 mV. The sensor is to be secured in a table-mounted vise.
CAUTION
This test can be very dangerous. Take the necessary precautions when working with a propane torch. Ensure that all combustible substances are removed from the work area and have a
fire extinguisher ready at all times. Be sure to wear the appropriate protective clothing as well.
1.
Remove the O2S sensor.

NOTE: Perform a visual inspection of the sensor. Black sooty deposits may indicate a rich air/fuel mixture, brown deposits may indicate an oil
consumption problem, and white gritty deposits may indicate an internal coolant leak. All of these conditions can destroy a new sensor if not corrected
before installation.
2.
Position the sensor in a vise so that the vise holds the sensor by the hex portion of its case.
3.
Attach 1 lead of a DVOM set to read DC millivoltages to the sensor case and the other lead to the SOUT terminal of the sensor pigtail connector.
4.
Carefully use a propane torch to heat the tip (and ONLY the tip) of the sensor. Once the sensor reaches close to normal operating temperature range, alternately heat the sensor
up and allow it to cool down; the sensor output voltage signal should change with the temperature change.
5.
If the sensor voltage does not change with the fluctuation in temperature, replace the sensor with a new one. Install the new sensor and perform one of the in-vehicle tests to rule
out additional fuel management system faults.
NOTE: This may also clean a sensor covered with a heavy coat of carbon.

1.
Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature, then turn the ignition switch OFF.
2.
3.
Open the hood and locate the Oxygen (O2S) sensor connector. It may be necessary to raise and safely support the vehicle for access to the sensor and its connector.
NOTE: On a few models, it may be necessary to remove the passenger seat and lift the carpeting in order to access the connector for a downstream O2S
sensor.
Since sensor locations vary between vehicles, the first step
in removal is to locate the O2S sensors (arrows)...
... and the sensor connector (2), which is usually near the
O2S sensor (1), but removed enough from the heat of the
exhaust system
Disengage the sensor pigtail connector half from the vehicle

harness connector half
For flange type sensors, loosen the hold-down fasteners...
... which happen to be nuts in this particular case some

models may use bolts rather than nuts
Then, pull the sensor out of the exhaust component
For screw-in type sensors (arrow)...
... either use a box end wrench to loosen the sensor or a

socket designed expressly for this purpose...
..., then remove the sensor from the exhaust component
4.
Disengage the O2S sensor pigtail connector from the vehicle harness connector.
NOTE: There are generally 2 methods used to mount an O2S sensor in the exhaust system: either the O2S sensor is threaded directly into the exhaust
component (screw-in type) or the O2S sensor is retained by a flange and 2 nuts or bolts (flange type).
WARNING
To prevent damaging a screw-in type O2S sensor, if excessive force is needed to remove the sensor lubricate it with penetrating oil prior to removal. Also, be sure to protect
the tip of the sensor. O2S sensor tips are very sensitive and may be easily damaged if allowed to strike or come in contact with other objects.
5.
Remove the sensor, as follows:

Screw-in type sensors O2S sensors are usually designed with a permanently attached wiring pigtail. This allows the wiring harness and sensor connectors to be
positioned away from the hot exhaust system. It may be necessary to use a socket or wrench that is designed specifically for this purpose. Before purchasing such a
socket, be sure that you can't save some money by using a box end wrench for sensor removal.
Flange type sensors Loosen the hold-down nuts or bolts and pull the sensor out of the exhaust component. Be sure to remove and discard the old sensor gasket, if
equipped. You will need a new gasket for installation.
6.
Perform a visual inspection of the sensor. Black sooty deposits may indicate a rich air/fuel mixture, brown deposits may indicate an oil consumption problem, and white gritty
deposits may indicate an internal coolant leak. All of these conditions can destroy a new sensor if not corrected before installation.
7.
Install the sensor, as follows:
To install:
NOTE: A special anti-seize compound is used on most screw-in type O2S sensor threads, and is designed to ease O2S sensor removal. New sensors
usually have the compound already applied to the threads. However, if installing the old O2S sensor or the new sensor did not come with compound,
apply a thin coating of electrically-conductive anti-seize compound to the sensor threads.
WARNING
Be sure to prevent any of the anti-seize compound from coming in contact with the O2S sensor tip. Also, take precautions to protect the sensor tip from physical damage
during installation.
Screw-in type sensors Install the sensor in the mounting boss, then tighten it securely.
Flange type sensors Position a new sensor gasket on the exhaust component and insert the sensor. Tighten the hold-down fasteners securely and evenly.
8.
Reattach the sensor pigtail connector to the vehicle harness connector.
9.
Lower the vehicle.
10.
11.
Start the engine and ensure no Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) are set.

There are different locations in the exhaust system where O2S sensors are positioned. The locations have been given numbers and will be used in the accompanying charts to identify the
positions of O2S sensors in most vehicles.
Due to mid-year production changes or factory inconsistencies, all models may not be covered. If a vehicle being serviced is not covered in the charts, inspect the exhaust system (while
cold!) in the general locations to find the applicable O2S sensors.
NOTE: If equipped with dual exhaust systems, there may be up to 4 or 5 O2S sensors in the exhaust system. Be sure to locate all of them before commencing with any
testing or service.
Location No. 1 down pipe or exhaust manifold
Location No. 1 typical O2S sensor located in the exhaust

manifold
Location No. 2 left and right banks of a V-type engine
Location No. 3 exhaust collector (where more than one pipe

joins together)
Location No. 4 outlet of the catalytic converter
Location No. 5 inlet and outlet of the catalytic converter
Fig. 1: Location No. 6 front, rear, left and right banks of a Vtype engine
Fig. 2: Location No. 7 front, rear, inlet and outlet of the

catalytic converter

Manual
Exploded view of the components associated with manual

transmission removal and installation
1.
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
2.
3.
Support the transmission with a jack and remove the transmission support assembly (19).
4.
Remove or disconnect the following:

Exhaust support bracket (10) and U-bolt (11)
Heat shield (5)
Front driveshaft (71)
Exhaust system (60) at the rear mount. Use a piece of wire to suspend it
Speedometer cable (9) or Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) (85a)
Clutch hydraulic line (arrow)
Shift linkage clips (32) and shift linkage
Transmission ground strap (27)
Transmission-to-engine mounting bolts
Transmission
To install:
5.
Apply a light coating of grease to the splines of the input shaft (33).
6.
Lift the transmission to the engine.
7.
Install or connect the following:

Transmission mounting bolts
Ground strap
Shift linkage
Clutch hydraulic line
Speedometer cable or VSS
Exhaust system with new gaskets
Driveshaft
Heat shield
Exhaust support bracket and U-bolt
Transmission support
8.
Check the transmission oil level and add if necessary.
9.
Lower the vehicle to the floor and connect the negative battery cable. Bleed the hydraulic clutch system.
AutoMatic
Exploded view of the components associated with autoMatic

transmission removal and installation
1.
2.

Negative battery cable
Radiator fan shroud
Dipstick tube (61) and transmission fluid
Electrical connector shield (62)
Electrical connector
Park interlock cable (80)

NOTE: Be sure the transmission selector lever is in PARK before removing the cable.
3.

Torque converter cover (81)
Torque converter-to-flexplate bolts
Oil cooler lines
Shift rod (63)
Exhaust mounting bracket (64)
Exhaust system (94)
Rear transmission mount (65)
Front half of rear driveshaft (66)
Transfer case driveshaft if equipped with 4-MATIC
Ground strap (46)
Transmission-to-engine mounting bolts
Transmission
To install:
4.
Position the transmission on the engine and install the mounting bolts.
5.
6.
Ground strap
7.
Front half of rear driveshaft
8.
Transfer case driveshaft if equipped with 4-MATIC
9.
Rear transmission mount
10.
Exhaust system
11.
Exhaust mounting bracket
12.
Shift rod
13.
Oil cooler lines
14.
Torque converter-to-flexplate bolts to 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm)
15.
Torque converter cover
16.
Park interlock cable
17.
Electrical connector and shield
18.
Transmission dipstick tube
19.
Fan shroud
20.
21.
Transmission fluid

All clutch release mechanisms are hydraulic, no periodic adjustment is necessary.

1.
2.

Transmission assembly
Pressure plate (6) mounting bolts (9)
3.
Inspect the pilot bearing, release bearing (7), release fork (8) and flywheel. Replace as necessary.
4.
Deglaze the flywheel with coarse abrasive cloth.
5.
To install:
Clutch disc using a line-up tool (012)

Pressure plate. Torque the mounting bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm)
6.
Lightly grease the friction surfaces (arrows) on the release fork. Install the transmission assembly lower the vehicle and check operation.
Exploded view of the clutch assembly

1.
2.
Fill the reservoir with brake fluid. Do not allow brake fluid to contact painted surfaces.
3.
Have a helper push the clutch pedal down and hold it.
4.
Attach a clear plastic hose to the bleeder valve. Place the other end of the hose in a container to catch the brake fluid.
5.
Open the bleeder valve on the release cylinder to expel air, then close the bleeder valve. Do not release the clutch pedal until the bleeder valve is closed.
6.
Repeat the procedure until clear fluid flows out of the bleeder valve.

1.
2.
Drain the fluid and remove the exhaust brackets. Suspend the exhaust with a piece of wire.
3.

Driveshaft shield
Case bracket
Case vibration damper
Front half of rear driveshaft
4.
Support the transmission and remove the engine support along with the rear engine mount. Lower the assembly slightly.
5.

Front driveshaft
Transfer case bolts
6.
Remove the transfer case and drain the residual oil.
7.
To install:
Transfer case with new gasket. Torque the bolts to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm)
Rear engine support. Torque the bolts to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm)
Driveshafts. Torque the bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm)
Case vibration damper
Driveshaft shield
Exhaust brackets

Front (4-Matic)
1.
2.

Front wheel
12-pointed axle nut (61)
Engine undercover
Brake hose bracket (arrow)
Stabilizer bar brackets (22b)
Headlight leveling linkage (80)
Lower ball joint (7) from the steering knuckle (5).
Shock absorber (11) from the lower control arm (4)
Lower control arm mounting bolts
Halfshaft
To install:
3.

Halfshaft
Lower ball joint
Shock absorber
Headlight leveling linkage
Stabilizer bar brackets
Brake hose bracket
Engine undercover
12-pointed axle nut. Torque the nut to 162 ft. lbs. (220 Nm)
Front wheel
Exploded view of the front halfshaft mounted 4-Matic
Rear
1.
2.

Wheel
Center axle hold-down bolt (in hub)
Brake caliper. Suspend it with a wire
3.
Drain the differential oil and support the differential housing.
4.

Differential housing cover
Axle lock ring
Axle shaft. If necessary, loosen the shock absorber
To install:
5.

Axle shaft. Torque the nut to 148175 ft. lbs. (200240 Nm)
Axle lock ring
Differential housing cover
Brake caliper
Center axle hold down bolt
Wheel
6.
Fill the axle with oil. New radial seal rings are used on all models. Lubricate the outside diameter of radial sealing rings with hypoid gear lubricant prior to installation.
NOTE: Check end-play of the lock ring in the groove. If necessary, install a thicker lock ring or spacer to eliminate all end-play, while still allowing the
lock ring to rotate. Do not allow the joints in the axle shaft to hang free or the joint bearing may be damaged.

Front (4-Matic)
1.
2.

Axle shaft
Rubber boot sealing clamp and CV-joint circlip
3.
Using a soft metal drift or a piece of wood, tap the CV-joint off the shaft.
4.
Use a rag to clean off the grease, inspect all components for wear and/or damage and replace as necessary.
5.
Replace the rubber boot and install the CV-joint and circlip. Replace the grease with the appropriate CV-joint lubricant.
6.
Install the axle assembly.
To install:
Rear
1.
2.

Axle shaft
End cover and boot cap
Rubber boot sealing clamp
CV-joint locking ring
3.
Remove the CV-joint from the axle using a press. Remove the rubber boot.
4.
Use a rag to clean off the grease, inspect all components for wear and/or damage and replace as necessary.
5.
Replace the rubber boot and install the CV-joint using a press. Replace the grease with the appropriate CV-joint lubricant.
6.
To install:
CV-joint locking ring

Rubber boot sealing clamp
End cover and boot cap
Axle shaft

Front (4-Matic)
1.
2.

Steering knuckle
Axle shaft flange using an appropriate puller
Bearing circlip
Bearing using appropriate removal tool
To install:
3.

Bearing using appropriate installation tool
Bearing circlip
Axle shaft flange using appropriate installation tool
Steering knuckle
Rear
1.
2.

Axle shaft
Disc brake rotor
Axle shaft
Wheel bearing locking ring
Wheel bearing using an appropriate puller
To install:
3.

Wheel bearing using appropriate installation tool
Wheel bearing locking ring
Axle shaft flange using appropriate installation tool
Disc brake rotor
Axle shaft

Exploded view of the components associated with the front

drive pinion (4-MATIC)
Front (4-Matic)
1.
2.

Axle shaft
Drive pinion with bearing cover
3.
Mark the bearing cover relative to the front axle drive housing.
4.

Rubber O-ring
Pinion seal
To install:
5.
Coat the pinion seal lip and the rubber O-ring with clean hypoid transmission oil.
6.

Pinion seal
O-ring
Bearing cover. Torque the bolts to 26 ft. lbs. (35 Nm)
Drive pinion and flange with new self-locking hexagon collar nut. Torque the nut to 350 ft. lbs. (475 Nm).
Axle shaft.
Rear
1.
2.

Exhaust system
Driveshaft
Fuel pump cover
Driveshaft intermediate bearing
Driveshaft at differential
Rear axle shafts at connecting flange
12-point hexagon collared nut
Pinion flange using appropriate puller
Rubber O-ring
Pinion seal
To install:
3.
Coat the pinion seal lip and the rubber O-ring with clean hypoid transmission oil.
4.

Pinion seal
Rubber O-ring
Drive pinion and flange with new self-locking hexagon collared nut. Torque the nut to 133 ft. lbs. (180 Nm)
5.

Rear axle shafts
Driveshaft at differential
Driveshaft intermediate bearing. Torque the bolts to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm)
Fuel pump cover
Exhaust system

Front (4-Matic)
1.
2.

Electrical connections
Axle shafts
Shock absorbers and front springs
Steering knuckles
3.
Support the engine and remove the front mount. Drain the power steering fluid.
4.

Feed line from reservoir if equipped with level control
Steering shaft
Power steering lines at steering gear
Headlamp leveling wiring harness
Front axle carrier bolts
Front axle assembly from vehicle
To install:
5.

Axle assembly. Torque the carrier bolts to 96 ft. lbs. (130 Nm)
Headlamp leveling wiring harness
Power steering lines at steering gear
Steering shaft
Feed line from reservoir if equipped with level control
Engine mount. Torque the bolt to 26 ft. lbs. (35 Nm)
Axle shafts
Steering knuckles
Shock absorbers and front springs
Rear
1.
2.
Drain the differential oil.
3.

Axle shafts
Exhaust system
Driveshaft intermediate bearing
Driveshaft
4.
Support the rear axle housing assembly
5.

Axle housing suspension mountings
Axle housing assembly
To install:
6.

Axle housing assembly
Axle housing suspension mountings
Driveshaft
Driveshaft intermediate bearing. Torque the bolts to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm)
Exhaust system
Axle shafts

2.8L, 3.2L and 3.6L (104) Engines
1.
2.
Properly recover the air conditioning system refrigerant.
3.
Properly relieve the fuel system pressure.
4.
Drain the engine coolant and engine oil.
5.

Exhaust
Steering damper
AutoMatic transmission cooling lines
Coolant expansion reservoir
Cooling fan and radiator
6.
Cover the air conditioning condenser using a piece of sheet metal, plywood or plastic.
7.

Charge air pipes
Air cleaner housing
Power steering lines
Power steering pump
Fuel lines
Engine wiring harness and vacuum lines
Throttle cable
Coolant hoses
Rear engine mount
Driveshaft
Park lock interlock cable
AutoMatic transmission control unit connector
Transmission linkage
Front engine mounts
8.
Raise the engine sufficiently until bolts of air conditioning compressor are accessible
9.

Air conditioning compressor
Engine assembly
To install:
10.

Engine assembly
Engine mounts. Torque the bolts to 41 ft. lbs. (55 Nm)
AutoMatic transmission control unit connector
Park lock interlock cable
Driveshaft
Coolant hoses
Throttle cable
Engine wiring harness and vacuum lines
Fuel lines
Power steering pump and lines
Air cleaner housing
Charge air pipes
11.
Remove the air conditioning condenser guard
12.

Cooling fan and radiator
Coolant expansion reservoir
AutoMatic transmission cooling lines
Steering damper
Exhaust
Coolant
Transmission fluid
Refrigerant
2.2L and 2.3L (111) Engines
1.
2.
Properly recover the air conditioning system refrigerant.
3.
4.
Drain the engine coolant, engine and transmission oil.
5.

Engine under cover
Fan shroud, clutch and fan assembly
Radiator
Heater hoses
Oil cooler lines
MAF sensor and air intake assembly
Charge air pipes if equipped with a supercharger
Accessory drive belts
6.
7.

Engine wiring harness, ground straps and electrical connections
Vacuum hoses
Fuel lines
8.
Drain the power steering fluid from the reservoir.
9.

AutoMatic transmission electrical connections if equipped
Accelerator and transmission linkage
Power steering pump hoses
Air conditioning compressor. Position it aside, leaving the hoses attached
Front halfshafts if equipped with 4-MATIC
Slave cylinder clutch line if equipped
Exhaust system
Driveshaft
10.
Ensure that all electrical and mechanical connections are detached from the autoMatic transmission
11.
Support the engine and transmission. Disconnect the mounts, and lift the engine and transmission out of the vehicle as one assembly.
12.
Position the engine/transmission assembly and install the mounts. Torque the bolts as follows:
To install:
Transmission mount-to-crossmember bolts: 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm)

Transmission crossmember-to-body bolts: 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm)
Transmission mount-to-transmission nut: 52 ft. lbs. (70 Nm)
Engine mount-to-subframe mounting bolt: 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm)
13.

Driveshaft
Exhaust system
Slave cylinder clutch line
Front halfshafts
Power steering hoses
Accelerator and transmission linkage
AutoMatic transmission electrical connections
Fuel lines
Vacuum hoses
Engine wiring harness, ground straps and electrical connections
14.
Remove the air conditioning condenser guard and fill the power steering reservoir.
15.

Charge air pipes
MAF sensor and air intake assembly
Radiator and coolant hoses
Oil cooler lines
Fan clutch, fan and shroud
Coolant
Engine oil
Transmission fluid
Refrigerant
3.2L (112), 4.3L (113) and 4.2L, 5.0L (119) Engines
1.
2.
3.
Drain the engine coolant and engine oil.
4.

Engine under cover
5.
6.

Air cleaner housing
Resonance pipe and body
Coolant hoses and radiator
AutoMatic transmission dipstick guide tube
7.
Drain the power steering fluid and detach the lines from the pump. Plug the lines.
8.

AutoMatic transmission fluid lines
Fuel lines
Wiring, vacuum and cable connections
9.
10.
Unbolt the air conditioning compressor and position it aside with the hoses attached.
Exhaust system and bracket
Driveshaft vibration damper
Driveshaft
Front wheels
Front halfshafts if equipped with 4-MATIC
Rear engine crossmember at transmission
Starter assembly
Front engine mounts
11.
Support the transmission assembly and lift the engine out of the vehicle.
12.
To install:
Engine assembly
Front engine mounts. Torque the bolts to 41 ft. lbs. (55 Nm)
Starter assembly
Rear engine crossmember at transmission. Torque the bolts to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm)
Front halfshafts
Driveshaft
Driveshaft vibration damper
Fuel lines
AutoMatic transmission dipstick guide tube
Coolant hoses and radiator
Resonance pipe and body
Air cleaner housing
13.
14.

Coolant
Engine oil
Transmission fluid
6.0L (120) Engine
1.
2.
3.
Drain the engine coolant, and engine oil.
4.

Engine under cover
Air cleaner
5.
6.

Fuel lines
Power steering pump
Oil cooler lines
7.
Remove the air conditioning compressor and position it aside with the lines attached.
8.

Oil pressure switch
Exhaust system
Starter
Driveshaft
Front and rear engine mounts
Rear engine crossmember
9.
Support the transmission assembly and lift the engine out of the vehicle.
To install:
10.
Position the engine assembly into the vehicle and install the mounts. Torque the bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm)
11.

Rear engine crossmember. Torque the bolts to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm)
Driveshaft
Starter
Exhaust system
Oil pressure switch
Oil cooler lines
Power steering pump
Fuel lines
Fuel lines
12.
13.

Air cleaner
Coolant
Engine oil
Transmission fluid

All Models
1.
2.
Disconnect the negative battery cable and drain the cooling system.
3.

Engine cover if equipped
Accessory drive belt and tensioner
Secondary air injection switchover valve if equipped
Power steering pump. Position the pump aside, leaving the hoses attached
Water pump coolant hoses
Oil-to-water heat exchanger coolant hoses if equipped
Belt pulley
Water pump mounting bolts
Water pump
4.
Clean all gasket material from the sealing surfaces.

Exploded view of the water pump mounting 3.2L (112) and
4.3L (113) engines
Exploded view of the water pump mounting 2.2L and 2.3L

(111) engine
Exploded view of the water pump mounting 2.8L and 3.2L,

(104) engines in the SL
Exploded view of the water pump mounting 2.8L, 3.2L and

3.6L (104) engine in the C and E Class models
Exploded view of the water pump mounting 4.2L and 5.0L
(119) engines
Water pump mounting bolt identification 4.2L and 5.0L

(119) engines
To install:
5.
Install the water pump and gasket. Torque the bolts as follows:
2.8L, 3.2L, 3.6L (104) and 4.2L, 5.0L (119) engines: 15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm)
2.2L and 2.3L (111) engines: M6 bolts to 88 inch lbs. (10 Nm). M8 bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm)
3.2L (112) and 4.3 (113) engines: M6 bolts to 88 inch lbs. (10 Nm). M8 bolts to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm)
6.0L (120) engine: M6 bolts to 88 inch lbs. M8 bolts to 15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm)
6.

Belt pulley. Torque the mounting bolts to 88 inch lbs. (10 Nm)
Oil-to-water heat exchanger coolant hoses
Water pump coolant hoses
Power steering pump
Secondary air injection switchover valve
Accessory drive belt and tensioner
Engine cover
Coolant

2.8L, 3.2L and 3.6L (104) Engine

NOTE: Cylinder head tightening illustrations are located in Section 1 of this manual. The illustrations follow the Torque Charts.
1.
2.
Properly relieve the fuel system pressure and drain the engine coolant.
3.
Position the No. 1 cylinder at TDC.
4.

Coolant hoses
Upper timing cover
5.
Matchmark the camshaft sprocket to the timing chain, and remove the pin (1) for the timing chain guide with a threaded extractor.
6.

Guide sprocket (left-hand thread)
Bearing assembly
Timing chain from the camshaft sprockets. Wire the chain aside
NOTE: Be sure the chain is securely wired so it will not slide into the engine.
7.

Vacuum hoses and electrical connectors
Exhaust system
Secondary air injection pipe if equipped
Dipstick tube support bracket
Crankcase breather hose
Fuel lines
Dipstick tube
Throttle, kickdown and cruise control cables
8.
Loosen the head bolts in stages in the reverse order of the illustrated sequence.
CAUTION
Never use a prybar between the head and the block.
9.
10.
Remove the cylinder head and clean all gasket material from the sealing surfaces. Be sure the cylinder head locating dowels are positioned correctly in the engine block.
Inspect length of the cylinder head bolt shaft. New bolt length is 6.30 inches (160mm), and the maximum permissible length is 6.44 inches (163.5mm). Replace bolts that
measure greater than the maximum permissible length.
To install:
NOTE: The head will not be watertight until the engine reaches operating temperature. Do not pressure test the cooling system until the engine has
reached operating temperature.
Cylinder head gasket identification 2.8L 3.2L and 3.6L
(104) Engines
11.
Rotate the camshafts so that the bottom edge of the holes in the camshaft flange, are level with the top edge of the cylinder head.
Verify the correct position of the camshafts for cylinder head
installation using a 4mm pin (1) 2.8L 3.2L and 3.6L (104)
Engines
12.
Verify the TDC position of the No. 1 cylinder. Clean the head bolt threads, and then apply clean engine oil to the thread and head contact surfaces.
13.
Install the head gasket and cylinder head.
14.
Torque the head bolts using the illustrated sequence to 41 ft. lbs. (55 Nm) plus 90 degrees, then an additional 90 degrees.
15.

Timing chain and upper timing chain guide
Timing chain guide pin

Guide sprocket and bearing assembly. Torque the bolt to 26 ft. lbs. (35 Nm)
Throttle, kickdown and cruise control cables
Fuel lines
Oil dipstick tube
Secondary air injection pipe if equipped
Exhaust system
Vacuum hoses and electrical connectors
Coolant hoses
Coolant

1.
2.
Drain the engine coolant.
3.

Exhaust system and bracket at transmission
Thermostat housing cover
Air intake tubes
Electrical connectors
Coolant hose (3) at the rear of the cylinder head
Intake manifold (19). Position it aside
Manifold bracket (2)
Valve cover
Thermostat housing
Cylinder head front cover
HO2S sensor connector
Engine and transmission dipstick guide tubes (7) (8)
4.
Position crankshaft to 2030 degrees ATDC for cylinder No. 1.
5.
Lock the camshafts (75 and 78) with locking pins (01) and matchmark the timing chain to the sprockets.
6.

Chain tensioner (14)
Chain guide rail in the cylinder head
Exhaust camshaft sprocket (76)
Intake camshaft sprocket (74)
7.
Install the cylinder head removal bracket (16) and remove the guide rail pin (11), using a threaded extractor.
8.

Timing chain housing bolts (A)
Cylinder head bolts in the reverse order of the illustrated tightening sequence
CAUTION
Never use a prybar between the head and block.
9.
10.
Remove the cylinder head and clean all gasket material from the sealing surfaces. Be sure the cylinder head locating dowels are positioned correctly in the engine block.
Inspect length of the cylinder head bolt shaft. New bolt length is 102mm and the maximum permissible length is 105mm. Replace bolts that measure greater than the maximum
permissible length.
To install:
Exploded view of the cylinder head accessory
components 2.2L and 2.3L (111) engines
Exploded view of the cylinder head mounting 2.2L and

2.3L (111) engines
NOTE: The head gasket is not watertight until the engine has reached operating temperature. Do not pressure test the cooling system until the engine has
11.
Verify the TDC position of the No. 1 cylinder. Clean the head bolt threads and apply clean engine oil to the thread and head contact surfaces.
12.

Head gasket and cylinder head. Torque the head bolts using the illustrated sequence to 41 ft. lbs. (55 Nm) plus 90 degrees, then an additional 90 degrees
Timing chain housing bolts
Guide rail pin
13.
Remove the cylinder head removal bracket.
14.

Intake and exhaust camshaft sprockets
Guide rail
Chain tensioner
15.
Remove the camshaft locking pins and verify timing mark alignment.
16.

Engine oil and transmission dipstick guide tubes
HO2S sensor
Thermostat housing
Valve cover
Cylinder head coolant hose
Intake manifold
Electrical connectors
Thermostat housing cover and air intake tubes
Coolant
3.2L (112) and 4.3L (113) Engines

1.
2.
Properly relieve the fuel system pressure and drain the engine coolant. Place a guard plate behind the radiator/condenser to protect it from damage.
3.

Engine cover
Air cleaner housing, resonance pipe and body
Fuel line
Ignition coils
Cylinder head covers
NOTE: The intake manifold system must not be disassembled.
4.

Intake manifold
Vacuum switchover valve
Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor
5.
Lock the autoMatic belt tensioner by rotating the tensioner counterclockwise until a 5mm drift or pin fits through the tensioner, and then remove the serpentine belt.
6.

Power steering pump. Position it aside leaving the hoses attached
Serpentine belt
Heater hose at the firewall
Exhaust system
7.
Rotate the engine clockwise to position the crankshaft 40 degrees ATDC.

WARNING
The engine must not be rotated backwards.
8.
Lock the camshafts using camshaft locking tools.
9.

Generator
Timing chain tensioner
Camshaft gears. Attach to the chain with a cable tie
Camshaft bearing bridges
Camshafts
Timing case-to-cylinder head bolts
Cylinder head bolts in the reverse order of the illustrated sequence
CAUTION
Never use a prybar between the head and block.
10.
Remove the cylinder head and clean all gasket material from the sealing surfaces. Be sure the cylinder head locating dowels are positioned in the engine block.
11.
Inspect length of the cylinder head bolt shaft. New bolt length is 141.5mm and the maximum permissible length is 144.5mm. Replace bolts that measure greater than the
maximum permissible length.
Exploded view of the cylinder head accessory
components 3.2L (112) engine shown
Exploded view of the cylinder head removal 3.2L (112)

engine shown
To install:
12.
Clean the head bolt threads and apply clean engine oil to the thread and head contact surfaces.
13.
Install the cylinder head gasket and head. Torque the head bolts according to the illustrated sequence as follows:
Step 1: 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm)
Step 2: 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm)
Step 3: 6070 degrees
Step 4: Additional 6070 degrees
14.

Timing case-to-cylinder head bolts. Torque to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm)
Camshafts
Camshaft bearing bridges
Camshaft gear. Torque the mounting bolt to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm) plus an additional 90 degrees
Timing chain tensioner with new gasket. Torque to 59 ft. lbs. (80 Nm)
Generator
15.
Remove the camshaft locking plates.
16.

Exhaust system. Torque mounting nuts to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm)
Heater hose
Power steering pump
Serpentine belt
CMP sensor
Vacuum switchover valve
Intake manifold
Cylinder head covers. Torque the bolts to 88 inch lbs. (10 Nm)
Ignition coils. Torque the mounting bolts to 70 inch lbs. (8 Nm)
Fuel line
Air cleaner housing, resonance pipe and body
Engine cover
17.
Remove the guard plate from the radiator/condenser.
18.
Fill the cooling system, connect the negative battery cable, start the engine and check for leaks.

1.
2.
3.

Engine cover
Front covers
4.
Crank the No. 1 piston of the engine to 45 degrees BTDC. Look for the 4/5 on the timing indicator.
5.
Mark all 4 camshaft timing gears and timing chain with colored dots at about 11 o'clock for the right outer and left inner camshaft sprocket and 1 o'clock for the right inner and left
outer camshaft sprocket.
6.

Timing chain tensioner and top guide rails
Camshaft gears and adjusters

Electrical wiring, hoses and cables
Intake manifold
Dipstick guide tube
Exhaust pipes and manifolds
NOTE: Be sure the engine is cold before removing cylinder head bolts. On the "close-deck" crankcase, the cylinder head bolts have different lengths.
7.
Loosen the cylinder head bolts in the reverse order of the illustrated tightening sequence.
8.
Remove the cylinder head and clean all gasket material from the sealing surfaces. Be sure the cylinder head locating dowels are positioned in the engine block.
9.
Inspect length of the cylinder head bolts. New bolt length is 160mm and the maximum permissible length is 163.5mm. Replace bolts that measure greater than the maximum
permissible length.
To install:
10.
Clean the head bolt threads, and then apply clean engine oil to the thread and head contact surfaces.
11.
Install the cylinder head gasket and head. Torque the bolts in sequence, as follows:
41 ft. lbs. (55 Nm)
+ 90 degrees
+ additional 90 degrees
Torque the M8 bolts near the timing sprockets to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm)
NOTE: Bolts that are screwed into the front of the cylinder head must be coated with sealant when installed.
12.

Exhaust pipes and manifolds
Dipstick guide tube
Intake manifold
Wiring, hoses and cables
Camshaft gears and adjusters
Timing chain tensioner and top guide rails
Front covers
Engine cover
Coolant
Engine oil
6.0L (120) Engines

1.
2.
Drain the cooling system.
3.
4.
5.
Intake manifold
6.
Engine assembly on S models
7.
Exhaust pipes and bracket on SL models
8.
Valve covers
9.
Rotate the crankshaft to 30 degrees ATDC.
10.
Matchmark the camshaft sprockets to the timing chain as illustrated.

Matchmark the timing chain and sprockets for
installation 6.0L (120) engines
11.

Timing chain from camshaft sprockets
Left head ventilation tube
Oil dipstick tube
Timing chain guide rails
Secondary air injection lines
Exhaust manifold on S models
Coolant hose at the rear of the head
12.
Loosen the head bolts in stages, in the reverse of the tightening sequence. Remove the cylinder heads with the exhaust manifolds attached. Clean all gasket material from the
sealing surfaces. Be sure the cylinder head locating dowels are positioned in the engine block.
13.
Measure the cylinder head bolts. New bolts are 168mm long, and the maximum allowable length is 171mm. Replace any bolts that exceed the maximum length.
To install:
14.
Install the cylinder head gasket and head. Torque the bolts in sequence, as follows:
41 ft. lbs. (55Nm).
+ 90 degrees.
+ another 90 degrees.
15.

Coolant hose
Exhaust manifold on S models
Secondary air injection lines
Timing chain guide rails
Oil dipstick tube
Ventilation tube
16.
Align the matchmarks and install the timing chain.
17.

Timing chain tensioner. Verify the correct valve timing
Valve covers
Engine assembly on S models
For SL models, connect the exhaust pipes to the manifolds and connect the exhaust pipe bracket to the transmission
Intake manifold
Engine oil
Coolant

All engines except the 112 and 113 are not equipped with rocker arms/shafts. The camshaft(s) act directly on valve tappets. On the 112 and 113 engines, the rocker arm/shaft is part of the
camshaft bearing cap assembly and is called the camshaft bearing bridge. This procedure is for removing and installing the camshaft bearing bridge.
3.2L (112) and 4.3L (113) Engines
1.
2.

Cylinder head cover
3.
Rotate the engine clockwise to position the crankshaft 40 degrees after top dead center.
WARNING
4.

Generator
5.
Cable tie the timing chain to the camshaft sprockets and remove the sprockets.
6.
Loosen the camshaft bearing bridge bolts in reverse of the illustrated sequence.
NOTE: The camshaft bearing bridge must not be disassembled. If damage exists at the valve gear or at the top half of the camshaft bearing journal, the
complete cylinder head should be replaced.
To install:
7.
Lubricate the camshaft bearing journals.
8.

Camshaft bearing bridge. Torque the bolts to 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm) in sequence as illustrated
Camshaft sprockets
Cylinder head covers. Torque to 88 inch lbs. (10 Nm)
9.
Connect the negative battery cable, start the vehicle and check operation.

1.
2.
3.

Intake air assembly. Plug supercharger openings
Sensor block cover
Electromagnetic clutch connector
Coolant hose, radiator to water pump
Coolant return hose
Fan and shroud
Supercharger drive belt
Supercharger pressure connections
Supercharger
To install:
NOTE: Install the bottom securing bolt in the supercharger before installing.
4.

Supercharger. Torque the mounting bolts to 16 ft. lbs. (21 Nm)
Pressure connections with new seals
Drive belt
Fan and shroud
Coolant hoses
Electromagnetic clutch connector
Sensor block cover
5.
Remove the plug from the inlet of the supercharger and install the intake air assembly.
6.
Fill the cooling system, start the engine and check operation.

2.8L 3.2L and 3.6L (104) Engines
1.
2.
3.

Vacuum, electrical and cable connectors
Fuel rail with the injectors
Resonance intake manifold (throttle body). Clean the gasket surfaces
Intake manifold
To install:
Exploded view of the intake manifold mounting and related
components 2.8L, 3.2L and 3.6L (104) engines
4.
Clean all gasket material from the sealing surfaces. Install intake manifold gaskets and manifold. Torque the mounting bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
5.

Resonance intake manifold with new gaskets
Fuel rail with new injector seals
6.
Check and adjust the throttle linkage.
7.
Connect the negative battery cable, start the engine and check for leaks.
1.
2.
3.

Intake air cross pipe
Ignition coils if necessary
Power steering pump bracket mounting bolt if necessary
Fuel rail with injectors
Intake manifold support bracket
Manifold mounting nuts and bolts
Intake manifold
To install:
components 199700 2.2L and 2.3L (111) engines
4.
Clean all gasket material from the sealing surfaces. Install the manifold gaskets and intake manifold. Torque the mounting bolts and nuts to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).
5.

Intake manifold support bracket
Power steering pump bracket mounting
Ignition coils
Intake air cross pipe
6.
Check and adjust the throttle linkage.
7.
3.2L (112) and 4.3L (113) Engines
1.
2.

Cylinder head cover
MAF sensor with intake pipe
3.
4.

Fuel rail with injectors
EGR valve
Combination valve
Manifold mounting bolts
Intake manifold
components 3.2L (112) engine shown.
To install:
5.
Clean all gasket material from the sealing surfaces. Install the new intake manifold gasket. Verify the secondary air injection passage opening in the gasket and install the intake
manifold. Torque the mounting bolts to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).
6.

Combination valve. Torque the bolts to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm)
EGR valve
MAF sensor with the air intake pipe
Cylinder head cover. Torque the bolts to 88 inch lbs. (10 Nm)
7.
Reconnect the negative battery cable, start the vehicle and check for leaks.

1.
2.
Partially drain the coolant.
3.

Air cleaner and engine cover
Vacuum and electrical connectors
4.
5.

Fuel supply (17/3) and return (17/2) lines
Guide element (27)
Throttle cable (30) at the control lever (9)
Control pressure cable (98)
Accelerator actuator (M16/1x1) connector and cable
Coolant hose (33) at the front of the manifold
Coolant hose at the rear of the manifold
Intake manifold
To install:
6.
7.

Manifold gasket and intake manifold. Torque the bolts in sequence to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
Coolant hoses
Accelerator actuator connector and cable
Control pressure cable
Throttle and transmission cables
Guide element
Fuel lines
Engine oil
Coolant
6.0L (120) Engines
1.
2.
Partially drain the coolant.
3.

4.
5.

Fuel supply and return lines
Electronic accelerator actuator
Throttle body
Air inlet plenum chamber if equipped
Intake manifold
Intermediate flanges
Exploded view of the intake manifold 6.0L (120) engines
To install:
6.
Replace the shaped rubber seals and install the intermediate flanges with new gaskets.
7.
8.

Manifold gasket and intake manifold
Air intake plenum chamber
Throttle body
Electronic accelerator actuator
Fuel lines
Engine oil
Coolant

Inline 4- and 6-Cylinder Engines
1.
2.

Exhaust pipe
Transmission exhaust support if equipped
Air injection tube if equipped
Manifold retaining bolts and manifold
To install:
Exploded view of the mounting 4-cylinder shown, inline 6cylinder similar
3.

Manifold gasket and exhaust manifold. Torque the bolts in an even pattern
Air injection tube
Transmission exhaust support
Exhaust pipe with new self-locking nuts. Torque to 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm)
V6, V8, and 12-Cylinder Engines
1.
2.
3.

Engine undercover
Exhaust pipes
Fan shroud.
Engine mount for the manifold being serviced
Fuel supply and return pipes if removing left manifold
Self-locking bolts and exhaust manifold
To install:
4.
Inspect the rivet nuts in the manifold and replace as needed.
5.

Manifold gasket and exhaust manifold. Torque the mounting bolts to 23 ft. lbs. (30 Nm)
Fuel lines if removed
Engine mounts
Fan shroud.
Exhaust pipes
Engine under cover
6.

2.8L, 3.2L and 3.6L (104) Engines
1.
2.
Disconnect the negative battery cable and position the No. 1 cylinder 30 degrees BTDC.
3.

Valve cover
Timing chain tensioner (1)
Upper front cover (30) and top guide rail (42)
4.
Matchmark the timing chain (6) to the camshaft sprockets (3 and 5).
5.

Timing chain from the intake camshaft (5)
6.
Hold the camshafts so that the lobes of the cams of cylinder No. 2 press on the middle of the buckets. Unbolt the camshaft bearing caps 1, 4, 6 and 7 of the exhaust camshaft
(14) and 8, 11, 13 and 14 of the intake camshaft (13). Loosen the remaining bearing cap bolts 1 turn at a time until there is no counterpressure.
7.

Camshafts
Bucket tappets
Position the crankshaft as shown to prevent piston-to-valve
contact 2.8L, 3.2L and 3.6L (104) engines
Remove the indicated bearing caps first 2.8L, 3.2L and

3.6L (104) engines
To install:
8.
Install the bucket tappets and oil the camshaft journals and lobes. Install the camshafts at 30 degrees BTDC for cylinder No. 1. The lobes of the cams must be facing on the
middle of the buckets for cylinder No. 2.
Be sure to install the indicated bearing caps first 2.8L, 3.2L
and 3.6L (104) engines
9.
Bearing caps 2, 3 and 5 for the exhaust camshaft and 9, 10 and 12 for the intake camshaft. Torque to 15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm). Hold the camshafts so that the lobes of the cams of
cylinder No. 2 press on the middle of the buckets. Install the remaining bearing caps. Torque to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm).
10.
11.
Timing chain
12.
Exhaust camshaft sprocket
13.
Align the matchmarks and install the sprocket. Torque to the following specification:
M7 13.5mm T30 Torx bolt: 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm)
M7 13.5mm T40 Torx bolt: 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm)
M7 13mm T30 Torx bolt: 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm) plus 60 degrees
14.

Front cover and top guide rail
Valve cover
1.
2.
Disconnect the negative battery cable and position the No. 1 cylinder 30 degrees ATDC.
3.

Valve cover
Front timing cover
4.
Matchmark the timing chain (73) to the camshaft sprockets (75 and 76).
5.

Timing chain from the intake camshaft (75)
6.
Using a wrench (1), rotate the camshafts (77 and 78) so the base circle of the cams are resting against the bucket tappets.
7.

Camshaft bearing caps
Camshafts
Bucket tappets
To install:
Exploded view of the camshaft mounting components and
positioning 2.2L and 2.3L (111) engines
8.
Install the bucket tappets and oil the camshaft journals and lobes. Position the base circle of the camshafts so they are resting against the bucket tappets.
9.

Camshaft bearing caps. Torque to 44 inch lbs. (5 Nm) plus 90 degrees
Timing chain
Exhaust camshaft sprocket. Align matchmarks and torque to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm) plus 90 degrees
Front cover and top guide rail
Valve cover
3.2L (112) and 4.3L (113) Engines
1.
2.
Disconnect the negative battery cable and remove the cylinder head cover. Rotate the engine clockwise to position the crankshaft 40 degrees ATDC.
WARNING
3.

Generator
Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) (1)
4.
Cable-tie the timing chain to the camshaft sprocket (5). Lock the camshafts using camshaft locking (3) tools.
5.

Camshaft gears
Camshaft bearing bridge (4)
Camshafts
Exploded view of the camshaft mounting, showing related
components 3.2L (112) and 4.3L (113) engines
To install:
6.
Apply clean engine oil to the camshaft contact surfaces.
7.

Camshafts
Camshaft bearing bridge
NOTE: The camshafts can be rotated 40 degrees after top dead center of the No. 1 cylinder without the valves touching the pistons.
8.
Position the camshaft so that the groove points towards the contact surface of the cylinder head cover, then attach the camshaft fixing plate. Repeat this step for the other
camshaft.
9.

Camshaft sprockets. Torque the bolt to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm) plus 90100 degrees
Timing chain
CMP sensor. Torque the mounting bolt to 70 inch lbs. (8 Nm)
Generator
Cylinder head cover
10.
Connect the negative battery cable, start the engine and check operation.
1.
2.
Disconnect the negative battery cable and position the No. 1 cylinder 45 degrees BTDC.
3.

Valve covers
Upper front covers (10 and 12)
4.
Matchmark the timing chain to the camshaft sprockets.
5.

Timing chain top slide rails (1, 1a, 2 and 2a)
Timing chain from the camshaft sprockets
6.
Rotate the camshafts so the base circle of the cams are resting against the bucket tappets.
7.

Camshaft bearing cap bolts
Camshafts with sprockets
Bucket tappets
To install:
Exploded view of the camshaft mounting and related
components 4.2L and 5.0L (119) engine
8.
Install the bucket tappets and oil the camshaft journals and lobes.
9.

Left intake and exhaust camshafts
Timing chain on left cylinder head, aligning the matchmarks
Left side bearing caps. Torque to 88 inch lbs. (10 Nm)
Right intake and exhaust camshafts
Timing chain on right cylinder head, aligning the matchmarks
Right side bearing caps. Torque to 88 inch lbs. (10 Nm)
Timing chain top slide rails
Upper front covers
Valve covers
6.0L (120) Engines
1.
2.
Disconnect the negative battery cable and position the No. 1 cylinder 30 degrees ATDC.
3.

Valve covers
Upper front covers and top guide rails
4.
Matchmark the timing chain to the camshaft sprockets.
5.

Exhaust camshaft sprockets
Timing chain from the intake camshaft sprockets
Bearing caps, except for caps 3, 4, 10, and 11 on the right head, and 17, 18, 24, and 25 on the left head
Cylinder and bearing cap identification 6.0 (120) engines
6.
Loosen the bolts on the remaining bearing caps 1 turn at a time until the bearing caps can be removed.
7.

Camshafts
Bucket tappets
To install:
8.
Install the bucket tappets and oil the camshaft journals and lobes.
9.

Camshafts
10.
Bearing caps 3, 4, 10, and 11 on the right head, and 17, 18, 24, and 25 on the left head. Torque the bolts in steps of 1 turn to 15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm)
11.
Remaining bearing caps. Torque the bolts to 15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm)
12.
Align the matchmarks and install the timing chain to the intake camshaft sprockets.
13.

Exhaust camshaft sprockets. Torque the bolts to 16 ft. lbs. (22Nm)
Upper front covers top guide rails
Valve covers

All Mercedes-Benz engines use hydraulic valve lifters. There is no provision for valve clearance adjustments.

Exploded view of the oil pan mounting and related

components Inline engines
Lower the front subframe by removing the mounting

bolts except 3.2L (112) and 4.3L (113) engines
Exploded view of the oil pan mounting and related

components Inline engines
Exploded view of the mounting of the upper oil pan and

related components 3.2L (112) and 4.3L (113) engines
Exploded view of the mounting of the lower oil pan and related
components 3.2L (112) and 4.3L (113) engines
2.8L, 3.2L, 3.6L (104) and 2.2L, 2.3L (111) Engines
ALL MODELS EXCEPT E320 (210)
1.
2.
Disconnect the negative battery cable and drain the engine oil.
3.

Fan shroud
Engine harness cover
Exhaust
Exhaust bracket at transmission
Oil level sensor connection
AutoMatic transmission oil pipes if equipped
Drag link
Front torsion bar
Engine mounts
Rear engine carrier
4.
Using a suitable engine support tool, support the weight of the engine. Raise the engine to access the oil pan mounting bolts.
5.
Remove the mounting bolts and the oil pan. Clean all gasket material from the sealing surfaces.
6.
NOTE: It may be necessary to tap on the oil pan with a rubber mallet to dislodge it from the engine block.
To install:
Oil pan with a new gasket. Torque the M6 bolts to 88 inch lbs. (9 Nm). Torque the M8 bolts to 15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm). Torque the M10 bolts to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
Rear engine carrier
Front torsion bar
Drag link
AutoMatic transmission oil pipes
Oil level sensor connection
Exhaust bracket at transmission
Exhaust
Engine harness cover
Fan shroud
7.
Fill the crankcase with oil, connect the negative battery cable, start the engine and check for leaks.
E320 (210)
1.
2.

Engine oil
Fan shroud
Front springs
Bottom engine mount
Steering coupling
3.
Support the front sub frame and remove mounting bolts. Lower the subframe to access the oil pan mounting bolts.
4.
5.
To install:
Front sub frame. Torque the bolts to 88 ft. lbs. (120 Nm)
Steering coupling. Torque the bolt to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm)
Engine mount. Torque the bolts to 41 ft. lbs. (55 Nm)

Front springs
Fan shroud
Engine oil
3.2L (112) and 4.3L (113) Engines
1.
2.

Engine oil
Coolant
Engine under cover
Fan clutch and shroud
Engine upper cover
Coolant hose at thermostat
Coolant hose at water pump
3.
4.
To install:
Oil pan with a new gasket. Torque the oil pan bolts to 84 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
Coolant hose at water pump
Coolant hose at thermostat
Engine upper cover
Coolant
Engine oil
1.
2.

Engine oil
Coolant
Drive belt and tensioner with bracket
Dipstick guide tube at air pump bracket
3.
Remove the air conditioning compressor and position it aside with the lines attached.
4.

Alternator and bracket
Dipstick guide tube
Engine mounts
Front springs and shock absorbers
Steering coupling
5.
Using a suitable engine support tool, support the weight of the engine.
6.
Support the front sub frame and remove mounting bolts. Lower to access the oil pan mounting bolts.
7.
8.
To install:
Sub frame. Torque the bolts to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm)
Steering coupling
Front springs and shock absorbers
Engine mounts. Torque the mounting bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm)
Dipstick guide tube at oil pump
Alternator and bracket. Torque the bracket mounting bolts to 15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm)
Air conditioning compressor and bracket. Torque the bracket mounting bolts to 15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm)
Dipstick guide tube at air pump bracket
Drive belt and tensioner with bracket. Torque the bracket mounting bolts to 15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm)
Engine oil
6.0L (120) Engine
1.
2.

Engine oil
Engine assembly
Alternator
Oil pressure sensor wire connection
Dipstick guide tube
Vibration damper
Secondary air injection line
Oil pan end cover
3.
4.
To install:
Oil pan end cover
Vibration damper
Dipstick guide tube
Alternator
Engine assembly
Engine oil

2.8L, 3.2L, 3.6L (104), 2.2L, 2.3L (111), 3.2L (112) and 4.3L (113) Engines
Exploded view of the oil pump mounting and related

component except 3.2L (112) and 4.3L (113) engines
1.
2.

Oil pan
Oil pump drive gear
Oil pump mounting bolts
Oil pump
To install:
NOTE: Be sure to replace any O-rings or seals between the oil pump and engine block.
3.
Install the oil pump and tighten the mounting bolts as follows:
M6 bolts: 88 inch lbs. (9 Nm)
M8 bolts: 15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm)
4.

Oil pump drive gear. Torque the bolt to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm)
Oil pan
Engine oil
Exploded view of the oil pump mounting and related
component 3.2L (112) and 4.3L (113) engines
1.
2.

Ground straps
AutoMatic transmission oil line bracket
Oil level control hose
Oil pan
Oil pump drive gear
Oil pump
To install:
3.

Oil pump. Torque the mounting bolts to 15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm)
Oil pump drive gear. Torque the mounting bolt to 24 ft. lbs. (28 Nm)
Oil pan
Oil level control hose
AutoMatic transmission oil line bracket
Ground straps
Engine oil
6.0L (120) Engine
1.
2.

Engine oil
Oil pan
Oil pump drive gear
Oil pump mounting bolts
Oil pump
To install:
3.

Oil pump. Torque the M6 bolts to 88 inch lbs. (9 Nm) and the M8 bolts to 15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm)
Oil pump drive gear with curved face towards pump. Torque the mounting bolt to 24 ft. lbs. (28 Nm)
Oil pan
Engine oil

All Models
NOTE: All engines use a 1 piece radial seal.
1.
2.

Flywheel or flexplate
Rear main seal using a suitable prying tool
To install:
3.
Coat the inner lip of the seal with engine oil. Using a seal driver, install the seal into the retainer.
4.


2.8L, 3.2L, 3.6L (104) Engines
1.
2.

Coolant
Engine cover, air cleaner and intake scoop
Fan clutch, belt and pulleys
Wiring and hoses
3.
Remove the upper timing cover and mark the timing chain and sprockets.
4.

Timing chain and tensioner
Accessories as needed, referring to the illustration for the specific model
Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP)
Crankshaft pulley
5.
Remove the timing cover. Make sure to clean all gasket material from the sealing surfaces.
6.
To install:
Timing cover with new gasket. Torque the M6 bolts to 84 inch lbs. (10 Nm). Torque the M8 bolts to 15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm).
Crankshaft pulley
CKP sensor
Accessories
Timing chain and tensioner
Wiring and hoses
Fan clutch, belt and pulleys
Engine cover, air cleaner and intake scoop
Coolant
2.2L, 2.3L (111) Engines
1.
2.

Coolant
Left charge air pipe
Oil filter
Oil pan
Accessory drive belt
Air conditioning compressor. Position it aside with the lines attached
Accessory drive belt tensioner
Water pump
Power steering pump pulley
3.
4.
Lock the camshafts with locking pins and matchmark the timing chain to the sprockets.
5.

Camshaft sprockets
Intake camshaft with adjuster
Vibration damper and pulley
6.
Remove the timing cover. Make sure to clean all gasket material from the sealing surfaces.
7.
To install:
Timing cover with new gasket. Torque the mounting bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
Intake camshaft with adjuster
Camshaft sprockets. Torque the mounting bolts to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm), plus an additional 90 degrees
8.
9.
Power steering pump pulley

Water pump
Cylinder head front cover. Torque the mounting bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm)
Oil pan
Oil filter
Left charge air pipe
Coolant
3.2L (112) and 4.3L (113) Engines
1.
2.

Coolant
3.
4.

Cylinder head and engine covers
Coolant hoses at water pump and thermostat
Oil pan assembly
Air conditioning compressor. Position it aside with the lines attached.
Power steering pump
Air pump if equipped
Coolant temperature sensor wire
Timing cover. Make sure to clean all gasket material from the sealing surfaces.
To install:
5.

Coolant temperature sensor wire
Air pump
Power steering pump
Oil pan assembly
Coolant hoses at water pump and thermostat
Cylinder head and engine cover
6.
Remove the protective cover from the air conditioning compressor.
7.
Connect the negative battery cable, refill the engine with coolant, start the engine and check for leaks.
1.
2.

Coolant
Engine cover
Upper timing covers
3.
Position crankshaft to 40 degrees BTDC for cylinder No. 1.
4.
5.

Timing chain tensioner and guides
Camshaft adjusters
Coolant hoses at radiator and thermostat housing
Water pump pulley
Air pump and bracket if equipped
Vibration damper hub
Front cover oil seal
Water pump
Air conditioning compressor and bracket. Position it aside with the lines attached
Oil pan
Dipstick guide tube
Timing cover. Make sure to clean all gasket material from the sealing surfaces. Replace the timing case cover O-rings.
To install:
6.

Dipstick guide tube
Oil pan
Air conditioning compressor and bracket. Torque the mounting bolts to 15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm)
Water pump. Torque the mounting bolts to 15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm)
Front cover oil seal
Vibration damper hub
Air pump and bracket
Water pump pulley
Coolant hoses at radiator and thermostat housing
Camshaft adjusters
Timing chain tensioner and guides
7.
8.

Alternator and bracket. Torque the mounting bolts to 15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm)
Upper timing covers. Torque the mounting bolts to 15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm)
Engine cover
Coolant
6.0L (120) Engine
1.
2.

Coolant
Air cleaner
MAF sensor
Water pump
3.
4.
5.

Power steering pump and bracket. Position it aside with the lines attached
TDC sensors
Secondary air pump air cleaner and bracket
Secondary air injection line if equipped
Oil pan bottom cover
Remove the timing cover. Make sure to clean all gasket material from the sealing surfaces. Replace the timing case cover O-rings.
To install:
6.

Timing cover with new gasket. Torque the M6 bolts to 88 inch lbs. (9 Nm), the M8 bolts to 15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm), and the M8 bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
Oil pan bottom cover
Secondary air pump air cleaner and bracket
TDC sensors
Power steering pump and bracket
7.
8.

Water pump
MAF sensor
Air cleaner
Coolant
Exploded view of the lower timing cover mounting and related
components 2.8L and 3.2L (104) engine in the SL Class
(129)

components 2.8L and 3.2L (104) engine in the S Class
(140)

components 2.8L, 3.2L and 3.6L (104) engine in the C
Class (202) and E Class (210) models

components 2.2L and 2.3L (111) engines in the E Class
(210) models
Exploded view of the lower timing cover mounting and related components 3.2L (112) and 4.3L (113) engines in the C Class (202) and E Class (210) models

components 6.0L (120) engines

All Models
NOTE: An endless timing chain is used on production engines, but a split chain with a connecting link is used for service. The endless chain can be separated with a
"chain breaker". Only 1 master link (connecting link) should be used on a chain.
1.
2.

Spark plugs
Valve cover(s)
Engine timing covers
3.
Clamp the chain to the camshaft gear and cover the opening of the timing chain case.
4.
Separate the chain with a chain breaker.

To install:
Replacing the timing chain 104 engine shown
5.
Attach a new timing chain (5) to the old chain (4) with a master link (6), center plate (7) and end plate (8). Using a socket wrench on the crankshaft, slowly rotate the engine in the
direction of normal rotation. Simultaneously, pull the old chain through until the master link is uppermost on the camshaft sprocket (9). Be sure to keep tension on the chain
throughout this procedure.
6.
Disconnect the old timing chain and connect the ends of the new chain with the master link. Insert the new connecting link from the rear so the lockwashers can be seen from the
front.
7.
Rotate the engine until the timing marks align. Check the valve timing.
8.

Engine timing covers
Valve covers
Spark plugs
9.
Start the engine and check operation.

Cylinder identification and piston identifications must agree

(see arrows)
Install pistons so the code (5) next to the piston pin and group
number (6) are pointing in the direction of travel, and the
identification (9) on the connecting rod is facing to the outside
of the engine.
Ring positioning

NOTE: In all cases, Mercedes-Benz engines and transmissions are removed as a unit.
1.
2.

Coolant
Engine oil
Transmission fluid
Hood
Battery
Heater hoses and oil cooler lines
Fan shroud and radiator
Air cleaner
Fuel, vacuum and oil hoses
Fan clutch and fan
Accelerator linkage
Ground straps and electrical connections
Gearshift linkage
Exhaust pipes
3.
Loosen the steering relay arm and move it aside, along with the center steering rod and hydraulic steering damper.
4.

Hydraulic engine shock absorber
Transmission oil line connectors
Exhaust pipe bracket
5.
Support the bell housing or place a cable sling under the oil pan to support the engine. On turbocharged models, disconnect the exhaust pipes at the turbocharger. Mark the
position of the rear engine support and unbolt the 2 outer bolts. Remove the top bolt at the transmission and pull the support out.
6.

Speedometer cable
Front driveshaft U-joint. Push the driveshaft back and wire it aside
Engine mounts
7.
Unbolt the power steering fluid reservoir and move it aside. Using a chain hoist and cable, lift the engine and transmission upward and outward.
8.
To install:
Engine and transmission assembly

Front driveshaft U-joint
Speedometer cable
Exhaust pipes and bracket
Rear engine support
Exhaust pipe bracket
Exhaust pipes at the turbocharger if equipped. Torque the bolts to 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm)
Transmission oil line connectors
Hydraulic engine shock absorber
9.
10.
Torque the steering relay arm to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm). Connect the steering damper to the steering linkage.
Gearshift linkage and exhaust pipes. Torque the manifold bolts to 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm).
Ground straps and electrical connections
Accelerator linkage
Fan clutch and fan
Fuel, vacuum and oil hoses
Air cleaner
Radiator and fan shroud
Heater hoses and oil cooler lines
Battery
Coolant
Engine oil
Transmission fluid

1.
2.

Water pump pulley
Hex nuts and magnet body
Water pump housing
NOTE: The magnet carrier is glued to the water pump housing and should not be pulled off.
To install:
Exploded view of the water pump housing
assembly Diesel engines
3.

Water pump housing and gasket. Torque combination screws to 90 inch lbs. (10 Nm)
Magnet body and hex nuts
Water pump pulley. Torque the screws to 90 inch lbs. (10 Nm)
Coolant

The glow plugs are located on the left side of the cylinder head.
1.
2.

Glow plug electrical connectors
Glow plugs
To install:
3.
Apply anti-seize compound to the glow plug threads.
4.

Glow plugs. Torque to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm)
Glow plug electrical connector. Torque the retaining nut to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm)

NOTE: Use care to ensure that the valve timing is not disturbed.
1.
2.
3.

Hoses and wires
Camshaft cover
Throttle linkage
Camshaft sprocket nuts
4.
Mark the chain, sprocket and cam for ease of assembly. Remove the sprocket and chain and wire it aside. Unbolt the manifolds and exhaust header pipe and set them aside.
5.
NOTE: Be sure the chain is securely wired so it will not slide into the engine.
Cylinder head bolts in the reverse order of the illustrated sequence.

Cylinder head
6.
Clean all gasket material from the sealing surfaces. Be sure the cylinder head locating dowels are positioned in the engine block.
WARNING
All Diesel engines utilize cylinder head stretch bolts. These bolts undergo a permanent stretch each time they are tightened. When a maximum length is reached, they must
be replaced with new bolts. Before tightening the head bolts on these engines, refer to the illustration for the specific length of the bolts.
Be sure to replace bolts that are beyond maximum
length Diesel engines
To install:
7.
Install the cylinder head and gasket. Torque the cylinder head bolts in sequence as follows:
11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm)
20 ft. lbs. (35 Nm)
+ 90 degrees
wait 10 minutes
+ additional 90 degrees
8.

Manifolds and exhaust header pipe. Torque the pipe fasteners to 24 ft. lbs. (34 Nm)
Sprocket and chain
Camshaft sprocket nuts
Trowel linkage
Camshaft cover
Hoses and wires
Coolant

The Diesel engine does not use rocker arms. The camshafts act directly on the hydraulic valve tappets.

1.
2.

Air filter
Temperature switch electrical cable
Air filter to compressor housing hose clamp
Vacuum line and crankcase breather pipe
Air intake duct
Turbocharger oil line
Air filter mounting bracket
Turbocharger exhaust flange
Transmission pipe bracket. Push the pipe rearward
Intermediate flange mounting bracket
Turbocharger
Intermediate flange and turbocharger oil return line
To install:
3.

Oil return line and intermediate flange
Flange gasket between the turbocharger and exhaust manifold with the reinforcing bead toward the exhaust manifold. Use only heat-proof nuts and bolts.
Intermediate flange mounting bracket
Transmission pipe bracket
Turbocharger exhaust flange
Air filter mounting bracket
Turbocharger oil line
Air intake duct
Vacuum line and crankcase breather pipe
Air filter-to-compressor housing hose clamp
Temperature switch electrical cable
Air filter
1
4 pint of engine oil through the oil supply into a new turbocharger

1.
2.

Engine ventilation tubes
Electrical wiring, cables and hoses
Manifold retaining bolts and manifold.
To install:
3.
Clean the gasket mating surfaces and install a new gasket.
4.

Manifold and bolts. Torque bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm), working from the middle outward
Electrical wiring, cables and hoses
Engine ventilation tubes

1.
2.

Exhaust pipe
Manifold retaining bolts and manifold
To install:
3.
Clean the gasket mating surfaces and install a new gasket.
4.

Manifold and bolts. Torque bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm), working from the middle outward
Exhaust pipe

1.
2.

Cylinder head cover
3.
Set crankshaft to TDC of No. 1 cylinder. Remove the timing chain tensioner and mark the camshaft timing gears and timing chain in relation to each other.
4.

Camshaft timing gears
Pressure oil pump if equipped with level control. Place aside leaving the lines connected.
Camshafts
Valve tappets using a lifter tool.
To install:
5.
Insert the circlip for axial locating into the cylinder head. Lubricate and install the valve tappets and camshafts.
6.

Camshaft bearing caps opposite of the loosening sequence. Torque bearing caps to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm)
Camshaft timing gears. Torque the fastening screw to 48 ft. lbs. (65 Nm)
Pressure oil pump
Cylinder head cover

Diesel engines use hydraulic valve lifters. There is no provision for valve clearance adjustments.

1.
2.

Starter wires and bracket
Starter mounting bolts
Starter assembly
To install:
3.

Starter assembly. Torque the mounting bolts to 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm)
Starter wires and bracket
Negatives battery cable
Start the vehicle and check for proper operation.

1.
2.
Disconnect the negative battery cable and drain the engine oil.
3.
Using a suitable engine support tool, support the weight of the engine.
4.
Support the front subframe and remove the mounting bolts. Lower to access the oil pan mounting bolts.
5.
To install:
Exploded view of the oil pan mounting and related removal
and installation components Diesel engines
6.

Oil pan with new gasket
Oil pan mounting bolts in crisscross pattern
Front subframe
Engine oil

1.
2.

Oil pan
Oil pump sprocket
Oil pump
To install:
Exploded view of the oil pump mounting Diesel engine
3.

Oil pump. Torque to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
Sprocket and chain
NOTE: Mount the sprocket so that the rise points toward the oil pump and so that the trochoid shape corresponds with that on the oil pump shaft.
4.
Oil pan
5.
Engine oil

NOTE: All engines use a 1-piece radial seal.

1.
2.

Rear main seal using a suitable prying tool
To install:
3.
Coat the inner lip of the seal with engine oil.
4.

Seal into the retainer

1.
2.

Coolant
Engine undercover
Serpentine belt
Fan shroud and radiator
Fan clutch and fan
Crankshaft pulley
Serpentine belt tensioner
Vacuum pump
Power steering pump
Self-leveling suspension hydraulic pump
Alternator
3.
4.

Cylinder head cover and charge air pipe
Oil dipstick tube
TDC sensor, marking its position
5.
Support the engine and remove the engine mounts. Raise the engine to gain access.
6.
Remove the timing cover bolts and carefully remove the cover from the engine. Be careful not to damage the oil pan and cylinder head gaskets.
7.
To install:
Timing cover. Torque the bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm)

Engine mounts
TDC sensor
Oil dipstick tube
Cylinder head cover and charge air pipe
8.
Remove the air conditioning condenser guard
9.

Alternator
Self-leveling suspension hydraulic pump
Power steering pump
Vacuum pump
Serpentine belt tensioner
Crankshaft pulley
Fan clutch and fan
Radiator and fan shroud
Serpentine belt
Engine undercover
Coolant

1.
2.

Cylinder head cover
Injection nozzles
Chain tensioner
Fan and shroud
Engine timing cover
3.
Clamp the chain to the camshaft gear and cover the opening of the timing chain case.
4.
Separate the chain with a chain breaker.
5.
Attach a new timing chain to the old chain with a master link. Using a socket wrench on the crankshaft, slowly rotate the engine in the direction of normal rotation. Simultaneously,
pull the old chain through until the master link is uppermost on the camshaft sprocket. Be sure to keep tension on the chain throughout this procedure.
6.
Disconnect the old timing chain and connect the ends of the new chain with the master link. Insert the new connecting link from the rear so the lockwashers can be seen from the
front.
7.
Install the timing chain tensioner. Rotate the engine until the timing marks align. Check the valve timing.
8.
To install:
NOTE: Use only a rivet-type connecting link. Do not use connecting link that uses a retaining spring.
Engine timing cover. Torque the bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm)
Cylinder head cover. Torque to 90 inch lbs. (10 Nm)
Fan and fan shroud
Injection nozzles

Cylinder identification and piston identifications must agree

(see arrows)
Install pistons so the code (5) next to the piston pin and group
number (6) are pointing in the direction of travel, and the
identification (9) on the connecting rod is facing to the outside
of the engine.
Ring positioning

Although different maintenance intervals are given by each manufacturer, it is a good rule of thumb to inspect the drive belts every 15,000 miles (24,000 km) or 12 months (whichever
occurs first). Determine the belt tension at a point half-way between the pulleys by pressing on the belt with moderate thumb pressure. The belt should deflect about 1 4 1 2 in. (6
13mm) at this point. Note that "deflection" is not play, but the ability of the belt, under actual tension, to stretch slightly and give.
Inspect the belts for the following signs of damage or wear: glazing, cracking, fraying, crumbling or missing chunks. A glazed belt will be perfectly smooth from slippage, while a good belt
will have a slight texture of fabric visible. Cracks will usually start at the inner edge of the belt and run outward. A belt that is fraying will have the fabric backing de-laminating itself from the
belt. A belt that is crumbling or missing chunks will have voids in the cross-section of the belt, some times the section missing chunks will be in the pulley groove and not easily seen. All
worn or damaged drive belts should be replaced immediately. It is best to replace all drive belts at one time, as a preventive maintenance measure.
Although, it is generally easier on the component to have the belt too loose than too tight, a very loose belt may place a high impact load on a bearing due to the whipping or snapping action
of the belt. A belt that is slightly loose may slip, especially when component loads are high. This slippage may be hard to identify. For example, the generator belt may run okay during the
day, then slip at night when the headlights are turned ON. Slipping belts wear quickly not only due to the direct effect of slippage but also because of the heat the slippage generates.
Extreme slippage may even cause a belt to burn. A very smooth, glazed appearance on the belt's sides, as opposed to the obvious pattern of a fabric cover, indicates that the belt has
been slipping.
An example of a healthy drive belt
Deep cracks in this belt will cause flex, building up heat that
will eventually lead to belt failure
The cover of this belt is worn, exposing the critical reinforcing

cords to excessive wear
Installing too wide a belt can result in serious belt wear and/or
breakage

CAUTION
On vehicles with an electric cooling fan, disable the power to the fan by disengaging the fan motor wiring connector or removing the negative battery cable before replacing or adjusting the
drive belts. Otherwise, the fan may engage even though the ignition is
OFF.
Belt tension can be checked by pressing on the belt at the center point of its longest straight span. The belt should give approximately 1 4 1 2 in. (613mm). If the belt is loose it will
slip, whereas if the belt is too tight it will damage the bearings in the driven unit.
For the purposes of V-belt tensioning, there are generally three types of mounting for the various components driven by the drive belt. The first method, referred to as pivoting type without
adjuster, is designed so that the component is secured by at least 2 bolts. One of the bolts is a pivoting bolt and the other is the lockbolt. When both bolts are loosened so that the
component may move, the component pivots on the pivoting bolt. The lockbolt passes through the component and a slotted bracket, so that when the lockbolt's nut is tightened the
component is held in that position. There are no automatic adjusting mechanisms used with this type of mounting.
The second method of component mounting, referred to as pivoting type with adjuster, is almost identical except for the addition of an adjuster of some sort. Usually, the adjuster is
composed of a bracket attached to the component and a threaded adjusting bolt. After loosening the pivoting and lockbolts, the adjusting bolt can be tightened or loosened to increase or
decrease the drive belt's tension. With this type of mounting, you do not have to hold the component in a tensioned position and tighten the pivoting and lockbolts; the adjusting bolt does the
job for you.
Some versions of this method of mounting use an adjuster which is built into one of the components mounting braces. The brace attaches the component to the engine and incorporates a
threaded adjuster in its mid-span, so that when the threaded adjuster is turned the brace shortens or lengthens. This in turn increases or decreases the amount of tension on the component.
The third type of mounting, referred to as stationary type, is designed so that the component is mounted on its brackets. There are no pivoting or lockbolts, and the component is not
designed to be moved. Rather, this type of mounting uses an extra tensioner idler pulley assembly. The drive belt is tensioned by adjusting the position of the idler pulley, usually
accomplished by turning the adjuster bolt on the idler mechanism.
A typical pivoting accessory with an adjusting bolt
An accessory that is fixed will have an adjustable

pulley notice the square slot to aid the adjustment
Pivoting Type
WITHOUT ADJUSTER
1.
2.
Loosen the component's lockbolt and pivoting bolt only enough for the component to move.
3.
Using a prytool, move the component either closer to, or farther away from the engine, to provide the correct tension on the belt.
WARNING
If using a metal prytool, always wrap the end with a rag or towel to prevent accidentally damaging the component from undue stress.
4.
Once the proper amount of tension is applied to the drive belt, hold the prytool with one hand while tightening the lockbolt securely with the other hand.
5.
Release the pressure from the prytool and tighten the pivoting bolt securely.
6.
Double check the drive belt's tension, in case the component moved slightly while tightening the bolts.
7.
WITH ADJUSTER
This type of drive belt is tensioned by a tensioner, which makes precise tension adjustment easy.
1.
2.
Loosen the component's pivot and lockbolts.
3.
Inspect the tensioner assembly on the component; the tensioner adjusting bolt may use a locknut or screw to prevent it from loosening over time. On the type of adjuster with a
threaded mounting brace, there may be two jam nuts used on either side of the threaded coupling. If such locking fasteners are found, loosen them.
4.
Turn the tensioner adjusting bolt or threaded coupling to increase or decrease the amount of tension on the drive belt, as necessary.
5.
When the belt tension is correct, tighten the lockbolt and the pivot bolt.
6.
If equipped, tighten the tension adjusting bolt locknut or screw to prevent the adjuster from slowly loosening over time. If equipped, tighten the two jam nuts.
7.
Stationary Type
IDLER PULLEY WITH ADJUSTING BOLT
1.
Loosen the idler bracket pivot bolt and locking bolts.
2.
Adjust the belt tension by inserting the proper size ratchet in the square slot of the idler bracket and rotating the bracket until tension is applied.
3.
While holding the tension on the belt with the ratchet, tighten the locking bolts, then the pivot bolt.
IDLER PULLEY WITHOUT ADJUSTING BOLT
1.
Loosen the mounting/pivot bolt behind the idler pulley.
2.
Swivel the idler pulley with a pair of pliers or a wrench on the bearing mounting until the proper tension is achieved.
3.
While holding the idler pulley, at the proper tension, tighten the mounting/pivot bolt.

If a belt must be replaced, the driven unit or idler pulley must be loosened and moved to its extreme loosest position, generally by moving it toward the center of the motor. After removing
the old belt, check the pulleys for dirt or built-up material which could affect belt contact. Carefully install the new belt, remembering that it is new and unused; it may appear to be just a
little too small to fit over the pulley flanges. Fit the belt over the largest pulley (usually the crankshaft pulley at the bottom center of the motor) first, then work on the smaller one(s). Gentle
pressure in the direction of rotation is helpful. Some belts run around a third, or idler pulley, which acts as an additional pivot in the belt's path. It may be possible to loosen the idler pulley
as well as the main component, making your job much easier. Depending on which belt(s) you are changing, it may be necessary to loosen or remove other interfering belts to get at the
one(s) you want.
When buying replacement belts, remember that the fit is critical according to the length of the belt ("diameter"), the width of the belt, the depth of the belt and the angle or profile of the V
shape or the ribs. The belt shape should match the shape of the pulley exactly; belts that are not an exact match can cause noise, slippage and premature failure.
After the new belt is installed, draw tension on it by moving the driven unit or idler pulley away from the motor and tighten its mounting bolts. This is sometimes a three or four-handed job;
you may find an assistant helpful. Be sure that all the bolts you loosened get retightened and that any other loosened belts also have the correct tension. A new belt can be expected to
stretch a bit after installation so be prepared to readjust your new belt, if needed, within the first two hundred miles of use.
Pivoting Type
CAUTION
On vehicles with an electric cooling fan, disable the power to the fan by disengaging the fan motor wiring connector or removing the negative battery cable before replacing or adjusting the
drive belts. Otherwise, the fan may engage even though the ignition is
OFF.
WITHOUT ADJUSTER
1.
2.
Loosen the accessory's slotted adjusting bracket bolt. If the hinge bolt is excessively tight, it too will have to be loosened.
3.
Push the component toward the engine to provide enough slack in the belt so that it will slide over one of the accessory drive pulleys. Remove the drive belt from the accessory
drive pulleys and from the vehicle.
4.
Position the new drive belt over the component pulleys. Be sure that it is routed correctly.
5.
Adjust the tension of the belt, as described earlier in this section.
6.
To install:
WITH ADJUSTER
1.
2.
Loosen the component's pivot and lockbolts.
3.
Inspect the tensioner assembly on the component; the tensioner adjusting bolt may use a locknut or screw to prevent it from loosening over time. On the type of adjuster with a
threaded mounting brace, there may be two jam nuts used on either side of the threaded coupling. If such locking fasteners are found, loosen them.
4.
Turn the tensioner adjusting bolt or threaded coupling to relieve all tension from the drive belt.
5.
Slip the belt off of the accessory pulley, then remove it from the other pulleys. Remove the belt from the vehicle.
6.
Route the new belt on the component pulleys. Make certain that it is routed correctly; incorrect routing could cause components to spin backward, possibly damaging it.
7.
Once the belt is correctly positioned on all of the pulleys, adjust the tension as described earlier in this section.
8.
To install:
Stationary Type
IDLER PULLEY WITH ADJUSTING BOLT
1.
2.
Loosen the idler bracket pivot bolt and locking bolts.
3.
Move the idler pulley until the most amount of slack is gained.
4.
Remove the drive belt from the accessory pulley, then from the other applicable pulleys.
5.
Position the new belt over the crankshaft pulley, the idler pulley and the accessory pulley. Make certain that it is correctly routed, otherwise it could cause the accessory to be
rotated backwards. This could cause damage to the accessory.
To install:
6.
Adjust the belt tension, as described earlier in this section.
7.
While holding the tension on the belt with the ratchet, tighten the locking bolts, then the pivot bolt.
8.
IDLER PULLEY WITHOUT ADJUSTING BOLT
1.
2.
Loosen the mounting/pivot bolt behind the idler pulley.
3.
Remove the drive belt from the accessory pulley, then from the other applicable pulleys.
4.
Position the new belt over the crankshaft pulley, the idler pulley and the accessory pulley. Make certain that it is correctly routed, otherwise it could cause the accessory to be
rotated backwards. This could cause damage to the accessory.
5.
Swivel the idler pulley with a pair of pliers or a wrench on the bearing mounting until the proper tension is achieved.
To install:
6.
While holding the idler pulley, at the proper tension, tighten the mounting/pivot bolt.
7.

Although many manufacturers recommend that the drive belt(s) be inspected every 30,000 miles (48,000 km) or more, it is really a good idea to check them at least once a year, or at
every major fluid change. Whichever interval you choose, the belts should be checked for wear or damage. Obviously, a damaged drive belt can cause problems should it give way while
the vehicle is in operation. But, improper length belts (too short or long), as well as excessively worn belts, can also cause problems. Loose accessory drive belts can lead to poor engine
cooling and diminished output from the alternator, air conditioning compressor or power steering pump. A belt that is too tight places a severe strain on the driven unit and can wear out
bearings quickly.
Serpentine drive belts should be inspected for rib chunking (pieces of the ribs breaking off), severe glazing, frayed cords or other visible damage. Any belt which is missing sections of 2 or
more adjacent ribs which are 1 2 in. (13mm) or longer must be replaced. You might want to note that serpentine belts do tend to form small cracks across the backing. If the only wear
you find is in the form of one or more cracks are across the backing and NOT parallel to the ribs, the belt is still good and does not need to be replaced.
Typical wear patterns for a serpentine drive belt

Periodic drive belt tensioning is not necessary, because an automatic spring-loaded tensioner is used with these belts to maintain proper adjustment at all times. The tensioner is also
useful as a wear indicator. When the belt is properly installed, the arrow on the tensioner housing must point within the acceptable range lines on the tensioner's face. If the arrow falls
outside the range, either an improper belt has been installed or the belt is worn beyond its useful life span. In either case, a new belt must be installed immediately to assure proper engine
operation and to prevent possible accessory damage.
Typical drive belt automatic tensioner wear indicator

Because serpentine belts use a spring loaded tensioner for adjustment, belt replacement tends to be somewhat easier than it used to be on engines where accessories were pivoted and
bolted in place for tension adjustment. Basically, all belt replacement involves is to pivot the tensioner to loosen the belt, then slide the belt off of the pulleys. The two most important points
are to pay CLOSE attention to the proper belt routing (since serpentine belts tend to be "snaked" all different ways through the pulleys) and to be sure the V-ribs are properly seated in all
the pulleys.
Although belt routing diagrams have been included in this section, the first places you should check for proper belt routing are the labels in your engine compartment. These should include
a belt routing diagram which may reflect changes made during a production run.
1.
Disconnect the negative battery cable for safety. This will help assure that no one mistakenly cranks the engine over with your hands between the pulleys, and that the cooling
fan cannot activate while servicing the belt(s).
NOTE: Take a good look at the installed belt and make a note of the routing. Before removing the belt, be sure the routing matches that of the belt routing
label or one of the diagrams in this book. If for some reason a diagram does not match (you may not have the original engine or it may have been
modified), carefully note the changes on a piece of paper.
2.
For tensioners equipped with a 1 2 in. (13mm) square hole, insert the drive end of a large breaker bar into the hole. Use the breaker bar to pivot the tensioner away from the
drive belt. For tensioners not equipped with this hole, use the proper-sized socket and breaker bar (or a large handled wrench) on the tensioner idler pulley center bolt to pivot
the tensioner away from the belt. This will loosen the belt sufficiently that it can be pulled off of one or more of the pulleys. It is usually easiest to carefully pull the belt out from
underneath the tensioner pulley itself.
3.
Once the belt is off one of the pulleys, gently pivot the tensioner back into position. DO NOT allow the tensioner to snap back, as this could damage the tensioner's internal
parts.
4.
Now finish removing the belt from the other pulleys and remove it from the engine.
5.
While referring to the proper routing diagram (which you identified earlier), begin to route the belt over the pulleys, leaving whichever pulley you first released it from for last.
6.
Once the belt is mostly in place, carefully pivot the tensioner and position the belt over the final pulley. As you begin to allow the tensioner back into contact with the belt, run
your hand around the pulleys and be sure the belt is properly seated in the ribs. If not, release the tension and seat the belt.
7.
Once the belt is installed, take another look at all the pulleys to double check your installation.
8.
Connect the negative battery cable, then start and run the engine to check belt operation.
9.
Once the engine has reached normal operating temperature, turn the ignition OFF and check that the belt tensioner arrow is within the proper adjustment range.
To install:
Often the underhood label will display the serpentine drive

belt routing
Relieve the belt tension by pivoting the automatic tensioner

away from the belt, then remove the belt
Verifying serpentine belt alignment in the pulley
Fig. 1 Serpentine drive belt routing Mercedes-Benz 2.8L,

3.2L, 4.2L, 4.3L, 5.0L and 6.0L engines
Fig. 2 Serpentine drive belt routing Mercedes-Benz 2.2L,

2.3L (non-supercharged) and 3.0L Diesel engines
Fig. 3 Serpentine drive belt routing Mercedes-Benz 2.3L

supercharged engines

Behr Style
1.
2.
Drain the cooling system into a clean container for reuse.
3.

Hoses from the heater supply and return pipes. Using compressed air, blow the residual coolant from the heater core
Instrument panel
Upper heater box cover-to-heater box screws, the 6 clips and the cover
Heater supply pipe-to-chassis clamp in the engine compartment
Heater supply and return pipes-to-heater core screws from the top of the heater box and swing the pipes away from the heater box
Pull the heater core from the top of the heater box
4.
Clean any spilled coolant from inside the heater box.

View of the heater box and related components BEHR
style 300D Turbo, 300E, 300CE, 300TE, 300E, 4Matic,
300TE 4Matic
To install:
5.

Heater core into the heater box
Heater supply and return pipes to the heater box using 3 new sealing rings
Heater supply pipe-to-chassis clamp in the engine compartment
Upper cover to the heater box, the 6 clips and the screws
Instrument panel
Hoses to the heater supply and return pipes
6.
Refill the cooling system.
7.
8.
Operate the engine to normal operating temperatures; then, check the climate control operation and check for leaks.
Valeo Style
1.
2.
3.

Hoses from the heater supply and return pipes. Using compressed air, blow the residual coolant from the heater core
Instrument panel and the center console
Pull off the temperature sensor heat exchanger, the left and right 2-pole couplings from the lower front of the heater box
Pull the air ducts from the bottom of the heater box
Crossmember and strut from the front of the heater box
Bracket from under the heater box
Loosen the ignition switch housing-to-steering column bolt. Turn the ignition key to position 1, press the ignition switch housing locking button and pull the steering lock
from the steering column
Pull the air ducts from both sides of the heater box
Heater box-to-chassis nuts and pull the heater box from the firewall
Electrical connectors and clip from the blower motor. Disconnect the main air flap control cable from the heater box
Heater box retaining clips and pull the front case from the rear case. Remove the heater core from the heater case
Heater supply and return pipes-to-heater core screws and the pipes from the heater core
4.
Clean any spilled coolant from inside the heater box.

View of the heater box and related components VALEO
style 300D Turbo, 300E, 300CE, 300TE, 300E, 4Matic,
300TE 4Matic
Exploded view of the heater box and related

components VALEO style 300D Turbo, 300E, 300CE,
300TE, 300E, 4Matic, 300TE 4Matic
To install:
5.

Heater supply and return pipes to the heater box using 3 new sealing rings
Heater core into the heater box; make sure the rubber pipe grommets are seated properly
Front case onto the heater box and secure with the clips
Main air flap control cable to the heater box. Connect the electrical connectors and clip to the blower motor
Position the heater box against the firewall (using a new seal) and install the heater box-to-chassis nuts.
Air ducts to both sides of the heater box
Slide the steering lock into the steering column and tighten the bolt
Bracket under the heater box
Crossmember and strut at the front of the heater box
Air ducts to the bottom of the heater box
Temperature sensor heat exchanger, the left and right 2-pole couplings at the lower front of the heater box
6.
7.
8.

1.
2.
Discharge and recover the air conditioning system refrigerant.
3.
4.
Detach and plug the heater hoses from the firewall tube connections.
5.
Raise and safely support the vehicle.
6.

Panel behind the front right side member
Move both front seats rearward and cover
Floor mats from both sides of the vehicle
Instrument panel and the center console
Control unit, if equipped with ABS
Left and right air ducts, from the rear passenger compartment, and the air ducts from the transmission tunnel, on the driver's floor
12-pole electrical connector for the temperature control from the right side of the heater/air conditioning box
5-pole and 6-pole electrical connectors from the temperature dial and the 2-pole electrical connector from the temperature sensor, air volume and the air distributing
switch
Vacuum lines from the air volume switch
Heater/air conditioning box-to-stiffening strut screws
Cable straps from the blower motor housing. Loosen the main cable harness straps from the heater/air conditioning box
Pull the right and left air ducts from the fresh air nozzles on the heater/air conditioning box
7.
From the heater/air conditioning box, removing or disconnecting the following:

2-pole electrical connectors from both temperature sensors
Electric lines cable connector screw
Separate the electrical plug connector and unclip the coupling member from the holder
8.

Expansion valve; be sure to plug the openings
Condensate drain hoses from both sides of the evaporator housing
2-pole electrical connector from the switch-over valve
9.
From the heater/air conditioning box, removing or disconnecting the following:

Lower heater/air conditioning box-to-holding angle screws
Angle bracket-to-blower housing nut
Right side upper angle-to-chassis nut
Left side upper angle-to-chassis nut
10.

Pull the heater/air conditioning box rearward to disengage the heater pipes from the front wall.
Lift the heater/air conditioning box above the front passenger's leg room and remove from the vehicle; be sure to keep the heater pipes vertical so coolant will not drain
out
Evaporator housing and pull the heater core from the heater/air conditioning box
To install:
NOTE: When assembling the cases, be sure to seal them especially well along the horizontal separating joint. Pay particular attention to the areas behind
the expansion valve and temperature or blower control.
11.

Heater core and the evaporator housing onto the heater/air conditioning box
Heater/air conditioning box against the front wall and position the heater pipes through the front wall
Heater/air conditioning box to the left side upper angle bracket and screw
Heater/air conditioning box to the right side upper angle bracket and nuts
Lower angle bracket with screws
2-pole electrical connector to the switch-over valve
Condensate drain hoses to the heater/air conditioning box
12.
Using refrigerant oil, lubricate the O-rings and threads; then, connect the refrigerant lines to the expansion valve.
13.

Electrical lines on the cable connector
2-pole electrical connectors to the temperature sensors
Both fresh air duct nozzles onto the heater/air conditioning box
Main cable harness onto the heater/air conditioning box and secure with the cable straps
Electric lines onto the blower housing and secure with the cable straps
Stiffening strut and screws
Vacuum lines to the air volume switch
2-pole, 5-pole and 6-pole electrical connectors onto the temperature dials
2-pole connector onto the flow sensor switch and the air distributing switch
12-pole connector onto the electronic switch gear
Both heater air ducts for the rear passenger compartment
Heater boxes
ABS control unit, if equipped with ABS
14.
15.

Center console and the instrument panel
Both foot mats into the leg room
Side member panel (located under the vehicle), if removed

16.
17.
Evacuate, charge and leak test the air conditioning system.
18.

1.
Disconnect the negative battery.
2.
3.
Discharge and recover the air conditioning system refrigerant.
4.

Air inlet cover
Water collector
Series resistor for the heater blower
Loosen the clamps on the hot water supply and return hoses and pull off the hoses. Seal off the openings
Instrument panel
Center console
Left and right floor covering
Front passenger airbag unit, if equipped
Jacket tube
Cable duct screws and loosen the cable duct
Bracket screws and bracket
Traverse pipe attaching the bolts and nuts and remove the traverse pipe
Electrical cables at the ground point
Open the cable tie and remove the left and right rear air ducts
Vacuum lines at the cockpit separation point
Right ground strap
Plug connection for the blower motor
Air ducts to the left and right side outlets
Heater box
Screws and clips and remove the cover
Screws and loosen the guide for the hot water supply pipe
Screws and loosen the hot water return pipe
Retaining clip for the hot water supply pipe
Heat core together with the hot water pipes
Hot water pipe attaching screws and remove the pipes
To install:
5.

Heater core
Hot water pipe and screws
Heat core together with the hot water pipes
Retaining clip for the hot water supply pipe
Hot water return pipe and the screws
Guide and the screws for the hot water supply pipe
Cover and the screws and clips
Heater box
Air ducts to the left and right side outlets
Plug connection for the blower motor
Right ground strap
Vacuum lines at the cockpit separation point
Left and right rear air ducts
Electrical cables at the ground point
Traverse pipe, the bolts and nuts
Bracket and screws
Cable duct and the cable duct screws
Jacket tube
Front passenger air bag unit, if equipped
Left and right floor covering
Center console
Instrument panel
Return hoses and the hoses to the hot water supply
Series resistor for the heater blower
Water collector
Air inlet cover
6.
Evacuate, charge and leak test the air conditioning system.
7.
8.
Connect the negative battery.
9.

2.8L, 3.2L, 3.6L (104), 2.2L, 2.3L (111), 3.2L (112) and 4.3L (113) Engines
1.
2.

Engine under cover
Alternator electrical wires
3.
Remove the alternator from the bottom.
4.
Install the alternator assembly. Torque the mounting bolts to 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm).
5.
To install:

Engine under cover
Connect the negative battery cable
6.
Start the engine and check for proper operation.
1.
2.

Viscous fan coupling if equipped with ball-type alternator
Alternator electrical connections
Alternator mounting bolts
Alternator
To install:
3.

Alternator assembly
Viscous fan coupling
4.
6.0L (120) Engine
1.
2.

AutoMatic transmission coolant pipe
Engine under cover
Right torsion bar and spring leaf rockers
Alternator mounting bolts
3.
Remove the alternator from the bottom.
4.
To install:
Alternator assembly
Right torsion bar and spring leaf rockers. Torque bolts to 44 ft. lbs. (60 Nm)
AutoMatic transmission coolant pipe
Engine under cover
5.

All engines except the 4.2L and 5.0L engines are equipped with a Distributorless Ignition System (DIS). No adjustment is necessary. The 4.2L and 5.0L timing is controlled by the Electronic
Ignition with Anti-Knock Retard (EZL/ARK) control unit. No ignition timing adjustment is possible.

All Models
1.
2.
Turn the steering wheel to full left position to gain access if necessary.
3.

Negative ground cable
Engine under cover
Starter electrical connections
Rear engine mount if necessary
Starter mounting bolts
Starter assembly
To install:
4.

Starter assembly. Torque the mounting bolts to 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm)
Rear engine mount. Torque the bolts to 41 ft. lbs. (55 Nm)
Starter electrical connections
Negative ground cable
5.

1.
2.

Engine under cover
Alternator from the bottom of the vehicle
To install:
3.

Alternator. Torque the mounting bolts to 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm).
Engine under cover
Connect the negative battery cable
4.

Safety is the most important factor when performing not only fuel system maintenance but also any type of maintenance. Failure to conduct maintenance and repairs in a safe manner may
result in serious personal injury or death. Maintenance and testing of the vehicle's fuel system components can be accomplished safely and effectively by adhering to the following rules and
guidelines.
To avoid the possibility of fire and personal injury, always disconnect the negative battery cable unless the repair or test procedure requires that battery voltage be applied.
Always relieve the fuel system pressure prior to disconnecting any fuel system component (injector, fuel rail, pressure regulator, etc.), fitting or fuel line connection. Exercise extreme
caution whenever relieving fuel system pressure, to avoid exposing skin, face and eyes to fuel spray. Please be advised that fuel under pressure may penetrate the skin or any part
of the body that it contacts.
Always place a shop towel or cloth around the fitting or connection prior to loosening to absorb any excess fuel due to spillage. Ensure that all fuel spillage (should it occur) is quickly
removed from engine surfaces. Ensure that all fuel soaked cloths or towels are deposited into a suitable waste container.
Always keep a dry chemical (Class B) fire extinguisher near the work area.
Do not allow fuel spray or fuel vapors to come into contact with a spark or open flame.
Always use a back-up wrench when loosening and tightening fuel line connection fittings. This will prevent unnecessary stress and torsion to fuel line piping.
Always replace worn fuel fitting O-rings with new. Do not substitute fuel hose or equivalent, where fuel pipe is installed.

1.
2.
3.
Connect a fuel pressure gauge with a pressure release valve to the service port on the fuel supply rail.
4.
Place the fuel release tube into a container and open the valve.
5.
Remove the fuel pressure gauge from the service port on the fuel supply rail.

1.
2.
3.

Cover box
Gas cap
Fuel pump cover
Pressure hoses
Fuel filter
4.
Remove the connecting plug from the old filter and install it on a new filter using a new gasket.
5.
To install:
Fuel filter
Attaching screws
Pressure hoses
Fuel pump cover
Gas cap
Cover box and check for proper sealing

All Models
1.
2.
Disconnect the negative battery cable and properly relieve the fuel system pressure.
3.

Intake, outlet and bypass lines. Plug the lines
Electrical leads
Fuel pump and vibration pads
To install:
NOTE: Some models utilize 2 fuel pumps connected in series.
4.

Fuel pump and vibration pads
Electrical leads
Intake, outlet and bypass lines. Torque the cap nuts and banjo bolts to 1822 ft. lbs. (2530 Nm).
Typical fuel pumps and related components

All Models
1.
2.
3.

Brake servo vacuum hose
Pressure regulator vacuum hose
PCV hose
Fuel feed pipe
Fuel system electrical connections
Left side ignition coil covers if necessary
Fuel rail with the injectors attached
Injector-to-fuel rail locking clip
Injectors
To install:
4.

Injectors with new O-rings on the fuel rail
Injector-to-fuel rail locking clip
Fuel rail/injector assembly
Left side ignition coil covers
Fuel system electrical connections
Fuel feed pipe
PCV hose
Pressure regulator vacuum hose
Brake servo vacuum hose

Safety is the most important factor when performing not only fuel system maintenance but any type of maintenance. Failure to conduct maintenance and repairs in a safe manner may result
in serious personal injury or death. Maintenance and testing of the vehicle's fuel system components can be accomplished safely and effectively by adhering to the following rules and
guidelines.
To avoid the possibility of fire and personal injury, always disconnect the negative battery cable unless the repair or test procedure requires that battery voltage be applied.
Please be advised that fuel under pressure may penetrate the skin or any part of the body that it contacts.
Always place a shop towel or cloth around the fitting or connection prior to loosening to absorb any excess fuel due to spillage. Ensure that all fuel spillage (should it occur) is quickly
removed from engine surfaces. Ensure that all fuel soaked cloths or towels are deposited into a suitable waste container.
Always keep a dry chemical (Class B) fire extinguisher near the work area.
Do not allow fuel spray or fuel vapors to come into contact with a spark or open flame.
Always use a back-up wrench when loosening and tightening fuel line connection fittings. This will prevent unnecessary stress and torsion to fuel line piping.
Always replace worn fuel fitting O-rings with new. Do not substitute fuel hose or equivalent, where fuel pipe is installed.

These engines have electronically controlled idle speed, using a solenoid connected to the control unit. Idle speed and mixture adjustments are not recommended.

1.
2.
Loosen the center bolt while holding the filter cartridge. Remove cartridge.
3.
Lubricate the gasket on the new filter cartridge.
4.
Install the new cartridge, washer, O-ring and bolt.

NOTE: These Diesel engines utilize a self-bleeding fuel pump, therefore the priming pump has been eliminated. There is no need to bleed the system.
Fuel filter assembly Diesel engines

1.
2.
Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the cover and loosen the central fastening bolt while holding the crankshaft with a socket wrench. Position the crankshaft pulley at
15 degrees ATDC. Fix the camshaft gear and injection pump in place with a cable strap.
3.
NOTE: The central fastening bolt uses left-hand threads.

Fuel lines
Idle Speed Control (ISC) solenoid vacuum lines and electrical connector
Control rod travel sensor and actuator electrical cables
Pump control lever throttle linkage
Vacuum control valve
4.
Remove the injection pump sprocket bolt while holding the crankshaft in place. The bolt is a left-hand thread.
5.

Sprocket bolt
Pump mounting bolts
Injection pump while holding the timing device in place
To install:
6.
Be sure the crankshaft is still at 15 degrees ATDC.
7.
Remove the timing plug from the pump.
8.
Using special tool 601 589 00 08 00 (serrated wrench) turn the pump until the lug of the governor is visible through the hole.
9.
Install the special tool 601 589 05 21 00 (locking bolt) in the timing plug hole to prevent the pump from turning while it is being installed.
10.
Install the pump on the engine. Torque the injection lines to 84 inch lbs.15 ft. lbs. (1020 Nm), mounting bolts to 1518 ft. lbs. (2025 Nm) and the central bolt to 3036 ft. lbs.
(4050 Nm).
11.
Remove the locking bolt from the side of the injection pump.
12.

Vacuum control valve
Pump control lever throttle linkage
Control rod travel sensor and actuator electrical cables
ISC solenoid vacuum lines and electrical connector
13.
Crank the engine 1 revolution and recheck the TDC mark of the crankshaft and camshaft. Check the start of injector (injector pump timing) delivery with a digital tester.
Install the locking bolt tool (023) to prevent the pump from
turning during installation Diesel engines

1.
2.
Disconnect the negative battery cable and properly relieve the fuel system pressure.
3.

Resonance intake pipe
Fuel lines
Injection pipes at nozzles
Injection nozzles
To install:
4.

Injectors with new O-rings. Torque to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm)
Injection pipes at nozzles. Torque to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm)
Fuel lines
Resonance intake pipe

Remove the screw plug and install the injection timing position
sensor
1.
2.
Remove the screw plug from the side of the injection pump governor housing.
3.
Install a position sensor into the hole and connect the tester to the vehicle battery and position sensor.
4.
Turn the crankshaft by hand until lamps A and B on the tester light simultaneously. Take the reading on the crankshaft pulley.
5.
Loosen the injection pump and turn the adjusting screw until the timing pointer is at 15 degrees after TDC and both lamps are ON.
6.
Install the oil and plug. Torque the plug to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
Turn the adjusting screw (arrow) to fine-tune the injection
timing Diesel engine

1997 2.2L engine Firing order: 1342 Distributorless

ignition system
Mercedes-Benz 2.3L engine Firing order: 1342

Distributorless ignition system (coil on cylinder)
Mercedes-Benz 3.2L engine Firing order: 143625

Distributorless ignition system (coil on each cylinder2 spark
plugs per cyl.)
Mercedes-Benz 4.3L and 5.0L engines Firing order: 1542

6378 Distributorless ignition system (coil on each
cylinder2 spark plugs per cyl.)
Intake manifold bolt tightening sequence 4.2L and 5.0L

(119) engines
Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence 2.8L and 3.2L

(104) Engines
Cylinder head bolt removal sequence 2.2L and 2.3L (111)

engines
Cylinder head bolt removal sequence 3.2L (112) engine
Cylinder head bolt removal sequence 4.3L (113) engine
Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence 3.2L (112) engine
Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence 4.3L (113) engine
Tightening sequence 6.0L (120) engines
Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence 6-cylinder Diesel

engines

Several precautions must be observed when handling the inflator module to avoid accidental deployment and possible personal injury.
Never carry the inflator module by the wires or connector on the underside of the module.
When carrying a live inflator module, hold securely with both hands and ensure that the bag and trim cover are pointed away.
Place the inflator module on a bench or other surface with the bag and trim cover facing up.
With the inflator module on the bench, never place anything on or close to the module, which may be thrown in the event of an accidental deployment.

To avoid personal injury when working on vehicles equipped with an air bag, the negative battery cable must be disconnected and insulated before working on the system. Failure to do so
may result in accidental deployment of the air bag.

To rearm the air bag system, reattach the battery cable(s).

ALL MODELS
1.
2.
3.
Drain the power steering fluid.
4.

Power steering lines at pump
Oil cooler lines if equipped
Power steering pump
Reservoir
To install:
5.

Reservoir
Power steering pump. Torque the mounting bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm)
Oil cooler lines if equipped
6.
Refill the reservoir with fresh fluid. Start the engine and turn the steering wheel from lock-to-lock several times. The system will bleed autoMatically. Check for leaks.

1.
2.
3.
Center the steering wheel and turn the key to the lock position. Remove the key from the ignition switch.
4.
Drain the power steering reservoir.
5.

Fluid level feed line if equipped with level control
Tie rod ends
Pressure and return lines
Steering gear return line
Steering coupling heat shield
Steering coupling
Control valve connector if equipped with speed sensitive steering
Steering gear retainer bolts (23g)
Steering gear
To install:
6.

Steering gear with new locking nuts. Torque to 36 ft. lbs. (50 Nm)
Control valve connector
Control valve coupling. Torque the bolt to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm)
Steering gear return line
Pressure and return lines with new O-rings. Torque the fittings to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm)
Heat shield
Tie rod ends with new nuts. Torque the nuts to 44 ft. lbs. (60 Nm)
Fluid level feed line
7.
8.
Check the front wheel alignment and adjust if necessary.

Exploded view of the rack and pinion steering gear
mounting E Class (210)

Exploded view of the worm and sector steering gear mounting
1.
2.
3.
Center the steering wheel and turn the key to the lock position. Remove the key from the ignition switch.
4.
Drain the power steering fluid reservoir
5.

Trim panel if necessary
Drag link and tie rod
Exhaust crossover pipe
Steering gear heat shield
Pressure and return lines
Steering shaft
Steering gear mounting bolts
Steering gear
To install:
6.
Center the steering gear by lining up the mark on the sector shaft with the mark on the housing.
CAUTION
New stretch bolts must be used when installing the steering box and tightening the coupling.
Align the mark on the shaft with the one on the housing to
center the steering gear worm and sector steering gear
7.

Steering gear
Steering shaft. Torque the new stretch bolts to 5259 ft. lbs. (7080 Nm)
Coupling bolt. Torque the bolt to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm)
Pressure and return lines. Torque the pressure line to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm) and the return line to 2630 ft. lbs. (3540 Nm)
Heat shield
Exhaust crossover pipe
Drag link and tie rod with new self-locking nuts
Trim panel
8.

Front
SL CLASS (129)
1.
2.
Remove the front wheel.
3.
Support the lower control arm.
4.
Using a spring compressor, compress the spring to relieve the pressure on the lower control arm.
NOTE: Convertible models have a vibration damper mounted on top of the left strut mount. Installation of the nut is possible only with the use of socket
124 589 00 09 00 and torque wrench 001 589 67 21 00.
5.

Upper mounting nut while holding the piston rod with a hex wrench
ABS sensor wire
Lower strut mounting bolts
Strut assembly
WARNING
Do not allow the knuckle assembly to hang by the brake hose, ABS wire or brake pad sensor wire.
6.
Remove the upper nut and remove the strut from the vehicle.
7.
If installing a new strut, transfer all components from the old strut to the new one.
8.
Clean the strut mounting surface of the knuckle.
9.
To install:
Strut assembly. Torque the lower bolts only until the heads make contact
Upper mounting bolt with washer and new self-locking nut. Torque until the surface of the knuckle makes contact with the strut
10.
Torque the 2 lower mounting bolts to 81 ft. lbs. (110 Nm), then tighten the upper bolt to 147 ft. lbs. (200 Nm).
11.
Install the upper mount. Torque a new hex nut to 45 ft. lbs. (60 Nm). On convertible models, be sure the 0.008 inch (0.2mm) thick steel washer is installed below the self-locking
nut.
12.
Release the tension from the spring compressor. Be sure the upper and lower ends of the spring are properly seated.
Exploded view of the front strut and related components SL
models
Rear
E320 WAGON (210)
1.
2.
Remove the upper strut mounting with the vehicle on the floor.
3.

Level control line if equipped
Spring link cover
Strut assembly
To install:
4.

Strut assembly. Torque the lower self-locking nut to 41 ft. lbs. (55 Nm)
Level control line. Torque to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm)
Upper strut mounting nut. Torque to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm)

Front
ALL MODELS EXCEPT E CLASS (210) 4-MATIC
1.
2.
3.
Support the lower control arm with a jack. Raise the jack slightly to release the tension on the shock absorber.
4.

Upper mounting
Lower mounting bolt
Shock absorber
To install:
5.

Shock absorber
Lower mounting bolt. Torque the bolt to 74 ft. lbs. (100 Nm).
Upper mounting. Torque the lower nut to 1113 ft. lbs. (1518 Nm) and the upper nut to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm)
Front wheel
Front shock absorber mounting S Class (A), C and E
Class (B)
E CLASS (210) 4-MATIC
1.
2.

Front wheel
Axle shaft 12-point nut
Brake hose bracket
Speed sensor and brake lining sensor wires
Tie rod end
Supporting joint
3.
Pull the steering knuckle outward and move the front axle out of the axle shaft flange.
4.
Separate the follower joint from the steering knuckle. Use wire to support the knuckle assembly.
5.

Engine undercover
Axle shaft
Stabilizer bar bracket
Stabilizer bar end bushing
6.
Compress the coil spring and remove the upper shock absorber mounting.
7.

Lower shock absorber mounting
Shock absorber
Coil spring
To install:
8.
Place the coil spring into position on the shock absorber.

WARNING
All suspension fasteners that pass through a rubber bushing, should be tightened while the vehicle is at normal ride height. Premature bushing failure may occur if the
fasteners are tightened while the suspension is hanging.
9.

Shock absorber upper and lower mounting. On the upper mounting, torque the bottom nut to 1113 ft. lbs. (1518 Nm) and the upper nut to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm). Torque
the new self-locking nut on the lower mounting to 136 ft. lbs. (185 Nm)
Stabilizer bar. Torque the bracket bolts to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm)
Axle shaft
Engine undercover
NOTE: Ensure that the axle shaft is in the proper position before connecting the follower joint.
10.

Follower joint with new self-locking nut. Torque nut to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm)
Supporting joint with new self-locking nut. Torque nut to 77 ft. lbs. (105 Nm)
Tie rod end with new self-locking nut. Torque nut to 44 ft. lbs. (60 Nm)
Speed and brake lining sensor wires
Brake hose bracket
New axle shaft 12-point nut. Torque to 162 ft. lbs. (220 Nm). Secure the nut with caulk (nut lock) so there is no gap between the groove and locking tab
Front wheel
Exploded view of the front shock absorber/coil spring
mounting 210 4-MATIC
Rear
ALL MODELS
1.
2.
Support the lower control arm.

WARNING
Be sure that the piston rod does not turn when the removing the nut. The mount for the operating piston may loosen and release the gas and oil from the shock absorber.
3.

Upper shock absorber mounting nuts
Rollover bar switch on convertible models
Lower control arm cover
Lower shock absorber mounting bolt
Shock absorber
To install:
4.

Shock absorber
Lower mounting bolt. Torque to 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm)
Rollover bar switch
5.
Lower the vehicle and install the spacer, upper bushing, washer and new self-locking nuts. Torque the bottom nut to 1113 ft. lbs. (1518 Nm) and the upper nut to 22 ft. lbs. (30
Nm).

Front
ALL MODELS EXCEPT 4-MATIC
1.
2.
3.
Compress the coil spring with an internal spring compressor.
4.
Remove the spring and upper seat towards the front of the vehicle.
5.
Clean the spring mounting area on the lower control arm.
To install:
6.
Compress the spring and position the spring on the control arm with the upper seat.
7.
Carefully release the spring compressor until the spring is installed in the correct position.
8.
Install the front wheel.
E CLASS (210) 4-Matic

Refer to the shock absorber removal and installation procedure for coil spring service.
Rear
ALL MODELS
1.
2.

Rear wheel
Rollover bar switch on the SL Class
Cross brace
Brake lining sensor wire
3.
Jack up the lower control arm until the axle shaft is horizontal. Be careful not to raise the vehicle off the lift.
4.
Compress the spring with an internal spring compressor. Do not use air tools to compress the spring.
5.
Loosen the bolt securing the lower control arm to the axle carrier. Remove the spring with the lower mount.
6.
Clean the spring mounting surface.
7.
Position the spring on the lower control arm and release the spring compressor.
8.
Remove the jack from the lower control arm.
9.
To install:
Brake lining sensor wire

Cross brace
Rollover bar switch
Rear wheel
10.
Torque the lower control arm-to-axle carrier nut to 52 ft. lbs. (70 Nm).

Front
ALL MODELS
1.
2.

Torsion bar brackets
Spring swiveling lever and mounting plate if equipped
Torsion bar
To install:
3.

Torsion bar and brackets with new bushings. Torque the bracket bolts as follows:
Control arm bracket self- locking nuts: 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm)
Top spring swiveling lever bracket self-locking nuts: 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm)
Bottom spring swiveling lever bracket self-locking nuts: 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm)
Torsion bar-to-frame bracket self-locking bolts: 44 ft. lbs. (60 Nm)
Rear
ALL MODELS
1.
2.
Properly relieve the fuel system pressure on SL Class vehicles.
3.

Rear axle housing assembly
Torsion bar connecting rods
Torsion bar brackets
Fuel-tank-to-pump hose on SL Class
Intermediate lever
Torsion bar
To install:
4.

Torsion bar and brackets with new bushings. Torque the bracket nuts to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm)
Intermediate lever. Torque the self-locking nuts to 84 inch lbs. (10 Nm)
Fuel-tank-to-pump hose
Torsion bar connecting rods. Torque the self-locking nuts to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm)
Rear axle housing assembly

All Models
NOTE: The upper ball joint is an integral part of the upper control arm. Control arm replacement is necessary if the ball joint becomes worn or damaged.
1.
2.
Remove the front wheel and support the lower control arm with a jack.
3.

Electrical connections if equipped
Ball joint stud
Control arm mounting bolts
Bearing shell
To install:
4.

Control arm in the bearing shell. Torque the self-locking nut to 55 ft. lbs. (75 Nm) after the weight of the vehicle is on the suspension
Control arm assembly using new micro-encapsulated bolts. Torque the bolts to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm)
Ball joint stud. Torque the nut to 88 ft. lbs. (120 Nm). Fill the gap in the clamp with a wax-like protectant.
5.
Front wheel
6.
Lower the vehicle to the floor and tighten the control arm through-bolt and nut to the specification.
Steering knuckle (5), control arm (6), bolt (6c) and nut
(6g) S Class (140) and C Class (202)

C Class (202), CLK (208), S Class (140) and SLK 230 (170)
1.
2.

Front wheel
Disc brake rotor securing bolt and backing plate bolt
Ball joint nut
Ball joint-to-steering knuckle nut
Ball joint
To install:
3.

Ball joint. Torque the control arm nut to 74 ft. lbs. (100 Nm) and the knuckle nut to 104 ft. lbs. (140 Nm).
Backing plate bolt. Torque to 72 inch lbs. (8 Nm)
Brake rotor bolt. Torque the bolt to 84 inch lbs. (10 Nm)
Front wheel
Common ball joint C Class (202) and S Class (140)
Sl Class (129) and E class (210) Except 4-Matic

NOTE: The ball joint on vehicles with engines 104 and 119 cannot be pressed out of the control arm. They have been welded in place. In this case, replace the control
arm assembly.
1.
2.

Front wheel
Coil spring
Stabilizer bar and bracket
Lower control arm-to-frame nuts and bolts
Ball joint pinch bolt and nut
Lower control arm
Ball joint using a press
To install:
3.

Ball joint using a press
Control arm. Temporarily tighten the control arm-to-frame nuts
Ball joint pinch bolt and nut. Torque the nut to 92 ft. lbs. (125 Nm)
Stabilizer bar bracket. Torque the bolts to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm)
Coil spring
Front wheel
4.
Lower the vehicle to the floor. Torque the control arm-to-frame nuts to 88 ft. lbs. (120 Nm).
E Class 4-Matic (210)
1.
2.

Front wheel
Axle shaft 12-point nut (61)
Ball joint nut. Press the ball joint out of the steering knuckle (5)
3.
Pull the steering knuckle outward and remove the axle shaft (60) from the flange.
4.
Support the knuckle assembly by placing a block of wood (arrow) between the coil spring and the knuckle.
5.
Position the axle shaft out of the way using a piece of wire.
6.
Remove the nut and press the ball joint (7) out of the lower control arm (4).
To install:
7.

Ball joint. Torque a new self-locking nut to 77 ft. lbs. (105 Nm)
Axle shaft
Ball joint to the steering knuckle with a new self-locking nut. Torque the nut to 77 ft. lbs. (105 Nm)
12-point axle nut. Torque to 162 ft. lbs. (220 Nm)
Front wheel
Lower ball joint mounting E Class 4-Matic (210)

Front
1.
2.
3.

Ball joint stud
Control arm mounting bolts
To install:
4.

Control arm assembly using new bolts. Torque the bolts to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm)
Ball joint stud. Torque the nut to 88 ft. lbs. (120 Nm).
5.
Front wheel
6.
Lower the vehicle to the floor and tighten the control arm bolt and nut.

Front
1.
2.
3.

Upper control arm
Steel spacer washers
4.
Using appropriate removal tool, remove the bushings from the control arm.
5.
Install the bushings using appropriate installation tool.
6.
To install:
Steel spacer washers

Upper control arm

C Class (202), CLK (208), S Class (140) and SLK 230 (170)
1.
2.

Front wheel
Disc brake rotor securing bolt and backing plate bolt
Ball joint nut
Ball joint-to-steering knuckle nut
Control arm
To install:
3.

Control arm assembly. Torque the control arm nut to 74 ft. lbs. (100 Nm) and the knuckle nut to 104 ft. lbs. (140 Nm).
Backing plate bolt. Torque to 72 inch lbs. (8 Nm)
Brake rotor bolt. Torque the bolt to 84 inch lbs. (10 Nm)
Front wheel
SL Class (129) and E class (210) Except 4-Matic
1.
2.

Front wheel
Coil spring
Stabilizer bar and bracket
Lower control arm-to-frame nuts and bolts
Ball joint pinch bolt and nut
Lower control arm
To install:
3.

Control arm. Temporarily tighten the control arm-to-frame nuts
Ball joint pinch bolt and nut. Torque the nut to 92 ft. lbs. (125 Nm)
Stabilizer bar bracket. Torque the bolts to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm)
Coil spring
Front wheel
4.
Lower the vehicle to the floor. Torque the control arm-to-frame nuts to 88 ft. lbs. (120 Nm).
E Class 4-Matic (210)
1.
2.

Front wheel
Axle shaft 12-point nut
Ball joint nut. Press the ball joint out of the steering knuckle
Axle shaft from the flange
3.
Support the knuckle assembly by placing a block of wood between the coil spring and the knuckle.
4.
Position the axle shaft out of the way using a piece of wire.
5.
Remove the lower control arm assembly
6.
To install:
Ball joint. Torque a new self-locking nut to 77 ft. lbs. (105 Nm)
Axle shaft
Ball joint to the steering knuckle with a new self-locking nut. Torque the nut to 77 ft. lbs. (105 Nm)
12-point axle nut. Torque to 162 ft. lbs. (220 Nm)
Front wheel

1.
2.
3.
Using appropriate removal tool, remove the bushings from the control arm.
4.
Install the bushings using appropriate installation tool.
5.
Install the lower control arm assembly
Lower control arm

To install:

1.
2.
Support the lower control arm assembly.
3.

Rear wheel
Shock absorber
Lower control arm
To install:
4.

Lower control arm. Torque the bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
Shock absorber. Torque the mounting nut to 52 ft. lbs. (70 Nm)
Rear wheel

1.
2.

Rear wheel
Lower control arm
3.
Using a press, remove the rubber mount from the spring link.
4.
Install the rubber mounts using a press.
5.
To install:
Lower control arm

Rear wheel

Front
ALL MODELS EXCEPT E CLASS 4-MATIC (210)
1.
2.
3.
Install 1 wheel bolt (48a) in the flange on the opposite side of the locking bolt.
4.
Push the brake pads into the caliper until they are clear of the rotor.
5.
Remove the grease cap (9e).
6.
Loosen the bolt (9i) and tighten the clamping nut (9d) while turning the rotor until all bearing play is eliminated.
7.
Loosen the clamping nut until play is detectable.
8.
Mount a dial indicator (022) on the hub with the measuring tip on the end of the spindle.
9.
Turn the clamping nut to adjust the play while pulling and pushing on the rotor to measure the bearing play. Correct bearing play should be 0.00040.0008 inches (0.01
0.02mm).
10.
Torque the bolt on the clamping nut to 96 inch lbs. (12 Nm) and recheck the bearing play again. If the play is within specification, assemble the wheel. If not, repeat the
procedure.
Mount a dial indicator on the rotor to measure the bearing
play except E Class 4-Matic
E CLASS 4-MATIC (210)

The front wheel bearings on the 4-Matic are not adjustable. If the bearings become loose or make noise, they must be replaced.

Front
ALL MODELS EXCEPT E CLASS 4-MATIC
1.
2.

Front wheel
Brake caliper and rotor
Grease cap
Clamping nut and washer
Wheel hub
Grease seal
Bearing
To install:
3.

Bearing
Grease seal
Wheel hub
Washer and clamping nut
4.
Adjust bearing play. Torque the clamp bolt to 96 inch lbs. (12 Nm)
5.
Fill the grease cap to the flared edge with high temperature roller bearing grease and install the cap.
6.

Rotor and caliper
Front wheel
Exploded view of the front wheel bearing assembly S
Class (140), SLK 230 (170), C Class (202), CLK 320 (208)
and E Class (210)
E CLASS 4-MATIC (210)
Steering knuckle and related components E Class 4-Matic

(210)
1.
2.

Front wheel
12-point axle nut (61)
Front axle distributor connector
Speed and brake lining sensor wires. Position out of the way
Brake disc (34)
Splash shield (35)
Speed sensor and bracket (5f)
Tie rod end (10a)
Ball joint (7)
Follower joint (8)
Steering knuckle
Axle flange
Snapring
Bearing assembly using a press
To install:
3.
Press a new bearing into the knuckle and install the snapring.
4.
Press the axle flange into the bearing.
5.

Steering knuckle
Follower joint. Torque the nut to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm)
Ball joint. Torque the nut to 77 ft. lbs. (105 Nm)
Tie rod end. Torque the nut to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm)
Speed sensor and bracket
Splash shield
Brake disc
Sensor wiring
Axle distributor connector
12-point axle nut. Torque the nut to 162 ft. lbs. (220 Nm)
Front wheel
Rear
ALL MODELS
1.
2.

Rear wheel
Exhaust if necessary
Cable guide rail
Level sensor control rod if equipped
12-point axle nut
Axle shaft to differential flange attaching bolts
Axle shaft
Brake disc
Parking brake shoes
Axle flange
Snap ring
Bearing using a puller
Axle shaft flange race using a puller
To install:
3.
Press the new bearing (8) into the axle carrier.
4.

Snapring (9)
Axle flange (10)
Parking brake shoes
Brake disc
Axle shaft. Torque the M10 bolts to 52 ft. lbs. (70 Nm) and the M12 bolts to 74 ft. lbs. (100 Nm)
12-point axle nut. Torque the nut to 236 ft. lbs. (320 Nm) on the 140 model or 162 ft. lbs. (220) on the remaining models
Level sensor control rod
Cable guide
Exhaust system
Rear wheel
Exploded view of the rear wheel bearing assembly all
models

Mercedes Benz SLK230 1998 Manual de Taller PDF

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Mercedes Benz SLK230 1998 Manual de Taller PDF

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1998 Mercedes-benz SLK230

Submodel: | Engine Type: L4 | Liters: 2.3

1998 Mercedes-benz SLK230

1998 Mercedes-benz SLK230

Disconnect the negative battery cable.

Disengage the cooling fan wiring harness connector.

... including cooling system hoses, to allow fan removal

Disengage the fan wiring connector(s)...

... and loosen all fan mounting fasteners

Separate the fan from the radiator...

If applicable, install the cooling fan on the radiator.

If drained, refill and bleed the cooling system.

Reattach the cooling fan electrical harness connector.

Connect the negative battery cable.

Start the engine and check for leaks.

Verify the operation of the cooling fan(s).

Typically the cooling fan is rubber mounted to isolate vibration

Disconnect the negative battery cable.

Access the cooling fan.

Label and disconnect the cooling fan electrical harness.

Lift the cooling fan out of the vehicle.

After removal of the grill assembly, the pusher type of cooling

It may be necessary to remove the grill assembly to access

Insert the cooling fan into the vehicle.

Mount the cooling fan to the A/C condenser or radiator

Connect the cooling fan electrical harness.

If removed, install any shrouding or grills.

Connect the negative battery cable.

1998 Mercedes-benz SLK230

Check the cooling fan motor.

Check the relays associated with the cooling fan circuit.

Cooling Fan Motor

Disconnect the negative battery cable.

Disengage the cooling fan motor connector.

Cooling Fan Relay

Turn the ignition OFF.

Remove the relay.

Check the operation of the internal relay contacts.

DIA. 42 - 199701 Mercedes-Benz C220 / C280 2.2L / 2.8L

DIA. 43 - 199701 Mercedes-Benz E320 / E420 3.2L / 4.2L

DIA. 44 - 199701 Mercedes-Benz S320 / S420 / S501 3.2L

1998 Mercedes-benz SLK230

O2S sensor output voltage vs. mixture ratio

1998 Mercedes-benz SLK230

1998 Mercedes-benz SLK230

Oxygen (O2S) Sensor Terminal Identification

Have an assistant restart the engine and allow it to idle.

Check the DVOM for voltage.

Have your assistant turn the engine OFF.

Label the sensor pigtail SOUT and SGND terminals.

Proceed to the test procedures.

Have your assistant turn the ignition OFF.

Have your assistant turn the ignition OFF.

Reattach the sensor pigtail connector to the vehicle harness connector.

Have an assistant restart the engine and allow it to idle.

Check the DVOM for voltage.

Have your assistant turn the engine OFF.

Label the sensor pigtail SOUT and SGND terminals.

TEST 1 DIGITAL VOLT-OHMMETER

Start the engine and allow it to warm up to normal operating temperature.

Remove the vehicle harness connector SOUT jumper wire.

TEST 2 DIGITAL MULTI-METER