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Now it's time to actually get some hands-on experience with some
simple basic circuits.
The battery symbol is our 9 volt battery. The negative terminal (black wire)
connects to one of the ground terminals on your circuit board.
Important:
Do not connect the battery to the connector until after you have the resistors
in place.
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If you are soldering, heat up your soldering iron and tin (melt some solder) on
the top of lug #1. See photo.
Important Tip
Resistors are not polarity sensitive so it doesn't matter which end you use.
Your resistor should look like this when you're done.
With solderless board, just plug the resistor into one of the rows of holes.
Do the same with the second 1K ohm resistor soldering it to lug #3 and lug
#4. See the photo below.
You now have two 1K resistors wired in series with one end connected to
ground because lug #4 is grounded.
Notice that there is not a lot of solder on the lugs and you can still see
through each hole.
Also notice how the solder joints are shiny and not a dull gray. Shiny indicates
a good solder joint. The dull gray would indicate that not enough heat was
applied and is known as cold solder joint.
I left the leads long on these parts so you can reuse them again in another
project. If this was a permanent installation, we would cut the leads so that
the body of the part was down close to the top of the terminal strip.
Next solder the red wire from wire from the battery connector to lug #1 and
the black wire to lug #4 or anywhere on the copper board.
I use the horizontal rows "x" and "y" (top and bottom) as the positive and
negative power source.
Here's how you could wire circuit one...
Another way of looking at it is, if the two resistors in parallel are both the
same value then the total is . For example if we have two 1000 ohm (1K)
resistors in parallel the total resistance of the two in parallel would be 500
ohms.
Now let's do the real life experiment. Make sure the battery is disconnected
and then solder, or jumper if you're using solderless, another 1000 ohm (1K)
resistor across the first resistor on your board.
Now we have the classic series parallel resistor circuit.
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This time we will do something that's even more fun. For this circuit you will
need the same old battery supply, a 1K ohm resistor (use one of the others
from before) and a light emitting diode.
Before we start let's talk a little about diodes. Diodes are one way devices.
What I mean is that current flows one way through the part and will not go the
other way unless you raise the voltage to a point that the diode breaks down
and shorts.
This means that diodes are rated by maximum forward current and peak
reverse voltage.
Diodes consist of an anode and a cathode. With a positive voltage applied to
the anode in respect to the cathode, current will flow.
When a negative voltage is applied the diode will shut off and no current will
flow.
Here's a close up photo of a glass diode. The black band on one end
indicates the cathode end.
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Let's build this circuit. I'm going to solder one end of a 1K ohm resistor to the
anode of the LED diode and then solder the cathode to ground.
OK I know what you're thinking, which one is the anode?
Why of course, it's the one that's not the cathode.
The cathode is identified by a marking. Look closely at the base of the diode
and see if there is a flat side. If so, the wire nearest the flat is the cathode.
Sometimes the cathode wire is made shorter than the anode wire.
Important Tip:
In a standard, non light emitting diode, the cathode is often marked with a bar
and that's why in the schematic symbol for a diode the cathode has the
straight up and down line or bar.
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So where do we start here? It's the same series circuit as the resistors except
this time we replaced one of the resistors with an LED.
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R1 = 1000 ohms
J1 = Jumper wire
D1 = LED diode
Connect the battery. The diode should light. If not disconnect the battery and
reverse the connections to the LED. Try it again. When it works you know you
have the resistor hooked to the anode.
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Unsolder the 1K resistor and replace it with the 470 ohm resistor.(yellowviolet-brown) Connect it back to the battery and turn it on.
The difference is the LED should be brighter since around twice the current is
flowing through it.
The forward voltage across a diode remains relatively the same regardless of
the current until so much current flows, that the diode junction burns up.
So you would call R1 either a "droping resistor" or a "current limiting resistor".
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Here's a photo of the two types of cases for small transistors. You most likely
have the one on the right. If you have the other type, notice the small metal
tab. This tab is near the emitter wire.
So now looking at this transistor from left to right you have #1 the Collector,
#2 the Base and #3 the Emitter.
Let's build this circuit.
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Start with the 470 ohm resistor soldered between lug #1 (+9volts) and lug #2.
Next solder the LED anode to lug #2 and the cathode to lug #3. You may
need to add a little extra solder here. See photo.
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Now before we go on double check the transistor to make sure that the lead
near that small tab on the case (the emitter lead) is soldered to lug #4 the
ground lug.
This will not work if you have the collector and emitter reversed and could
burn up the transistor so make sure.
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Next take a short length of hook up wire remove about 1/4 inch of insulation
and tin both ends. (melt solder on both exposed wire ends)
Solder one end to the collector, lug #6 and the other to the LED cathode lug
#3. This connects the LED to the transistor. Take a look at the diagram.
Now the free end of the 10K resistor is point B in the diagram and the
connection between the positive battery wire and the 470 ohm resistor (lug
#1) is point A.
Here is the solderless board version.
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Before we put in the battery, make sure nothing is left unsoldered and
everything is wired correctly if you're using the solderless board.
Stop and take a look at the circuit and you will see we have a series circuit of
the battery (supply) the 470 ohm resistor, the LED, and then the transistor
and back to the battery through the common ground.
If everything checks out, connect the battery.
Absolutely nothing should happen if you did it right. The transistor is not
forward biased because the 10K base resistor is hanging free, so the LED
cannot light.
Now take the free end of the 10K resistor, (point B), and connect it with your
fingers to lug #1 point A or anywhere along the +9 volt power buss on the
solderless board.
The LED should light. Release the resistor and it goes out. The transistor is
acting as a switch.
The base emitter junction of the transistor is a diode and when you apply a
forward bias though the 10K resistor (R2) it conducts, this causes the
collector emitter junction to conduct and the circuit is complete. The LED
lights.
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OK drag out your voltmeter lets take some voltage readings. Again connect
the black meter probe to the negative side of the supply and set the meter to
DC volts.
Turn on everything (put in the battery) and connect points A and B with a wire.
The LED should light. Now measure the voltage at the junction of A and B.
You see 9 volts right?
Measure the voltage on the base of the transistor without touching any other
wires. You should see about 0.5 volts.
This is the forward bias voltage of a silicon transistor. The remaining 8.5 volts
is dropped across the 10K base resistor.
The value of 10K for the base resistor causes the transistor to be completely
on but the transistor is not a completely on or off device.
You could experiment with different values of base resistor, to make the LED
dimmer by using a higher value of resistor or brighter with a lower, but don't
go below about 1K as a base resistor or you will risk blowing the base emitter
junction in the transistor out from way too much base current.
Besides, once the transistor is completely on the LED won't get any
brighter!
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What use could you find for this circuit? There are lots of them.
Perhaps if you soldered two long wires to points A and B and removed the
insulation from the ends you could use it as a water detector.
If the ends of the two wires came in contact with water, since regular water is
a conductor, the LED would light.
Perhaps warning you of a flooded basement.
See if you can think of two or three more uses for this circuit.
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Now some time has gone by and the capacitor is charging, its resistance is
going up and up as it charges and when it's completely charged it's
resistance will be extremely high in the millions of ohms.
How long will this take?
That is dependent upon the value of the series resistor and in this case it's
the 1K.
Making the resistor or the capacitor larger will increase the time to charge and
making it smaller will decrease the time.
This is known as the RC time constant.
Back to the circuit, as the capacitor charges it draws less and less current
which is the same as saying it's resistance is going up and up.
Now remember way back to the two resistors in the series circuit, when the
two resistors were equal in value the voltage across them was the same.
In our circuit it was 4.5 volts across each, which equaled the applied voltage
of 9 volts.
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CIRCUIT FOUR:
Capacitor Charge And Discharge
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CIRCUIT FOUR:
Capacitor Charge And Discharge
Next run the piece of hook up wire from lug #6 over to lug #3. That ties the
470 ohm resistor to the capacitor as in the diagram.
Now solder the 1K ohm resistor from lug #1 (+9volts) to lug #3 and you're set
to go.
Here's what the solderless board looks like. R1=1K R2=470 C1=2200uF D1= LED
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You don't need to build this, I just thought we could take a few minutes and
look at something you have learned about without knowing it.
You might recognize C1, R1 and D2 from the circuit you just built.
Now I added some new symbols, the power plug, a fuse F1 an on/off switch
SW1. Everything else you will recognize from the course. T1 is a step down
power transformer and L1 is an inductor.
Now let's run through it.
Remember, we are using AC voltage here so the primary winding of the
transformer T1 is 'seeing' a changing current and changing magnetic field.
This changing field induces a voltage in the "secondary" winding of T1. The
amount of voltage depends on the turns ratio of the windings. If the
secondary has fewer turns then the primary you have a "step down"
transformer. If it has more than the primary, it's a "step up" transformer.
In this low voltage power supply we will call for a step down to 12 volts AC.
If we used a 10:1 transformer and applied 120 volts AC to the primary we
would see 12 volts AC on the secondary.
(Trivia) Back in the 'old days' this would be called a filament transformer and
would be used to power (light up) the filaments of 12 volt vacuum tubes.
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OK, from the top of T1's secondary a wire connects to the anode of diode D1.
It's very important to connect to the anode as we want a positive voltage.
If it got connected to the cathode we would get a negative voltage and the
supply would not work. It would damage the capacitor and if the capacitor
failed as a short, then the fuse would blow and hopefully protect the diode
and the transformer! So watching polarities is extremely important!
The diode D1 conducts only on the positive half cycles of the alternating
current from the transformer, so the output of the diode is positive pulses, the
positive half of the input sine wave.
Next a wire connects to the inductor L1 and then from L1 to capacitor C1.
The combination of L1 and C1 forms a low pass filter. Each time a positive
pulse arrives at C1 it charges up, then during the time between pulses it
discharges supplying current to the load until the next pulse arrives. This
filtering action is what gives a nice smooth DC output.
Next a wire connects to R1. This resistor is called a dropping resistor and is
used to reduce or drop the voltage supplied to D2 the LED diode. The LED is
forward biased and will light when the power supply is turned on.
If there is no load on the power supply (as in this drawing) then the LED will
slowly go out when the supply is switched off due to the capacitor C1
discharging though the LED until it has completely discharged.
See, you pretty much knew exactly how that worked without me explaining it
to you. OK you are ready to go out on your own because you now have a
good basic understanding of basic electronics.
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