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xworks
Wrencher
Join Date:
Aug 2009
Location:
Ireland
Posts: 203
Hello.
First post on here but I've been reading the forum for quite a w
Started doing some minor rust repairs on my e30 a while ago
it just seemed to go on a little. Here's a few details...
Haven't had much time to do a lot with it in the few years sin
it apart from some wheels and routine service work. This is how
before taking off the road.
Unfortunately although she looks reasonably clean in the pic's the old sa
"good from afar but far from good", reason being the dreaded rust had
starting to munch it's way through the chassis. Also there was quite a
the body and the front is severly stone chipped for some r
the most noticeable of the rust was on the rear arches where it w
somewhere during it's life the rear arches were rolled to accommoda
and tyres and poorly done..
So we set about getting the car ready for some small rust re
with the amount of stuff coming out of the bm, shelf space was start
so the poor escort has to double up as a fitted wardrobe for the ti
As mentioned the main reason for taking the car off the roa
the rust on the rear arches, but that was far from the least
rust problems. First up was some rust on the drivers side of
a few years after the car rolled off the production line the re
had an unfortunate coming together with a solid object, oth
known as a tank slapper. The previous owner had provided all t
receipts for the main dealer repairs at the time , which showe
had a rear drivers side section of the quarter panel changed. Su
real oem confirmed that a replacement section of the rear qua
available, and I have to admit that whoever done the repair do
at the time, I certainly couldn't have done better. Unfortunately th
time(17years) and salty water has taken it's toll on the re
and while the main part of the repair (the face of the quarter
still perfect, the sections under the boot lid and under the bum
rusted badly.
So, first thing is to clean away the paint and see how much me
to come out.....
i'm not gifted enough to form and weld in the repairs seemles
original panel so the patches are welded in slightly below the su
to allow for a small skim of filler to blend the repairs.
next up was a small hole in the bulkhead under the battery tray a
of a cue tip which when wire brushed with the angle grinder
up to reveal itself to be a little larger......
when wire brushed back it was mostly just surface rust, but as
view the far side of the panel was poor it was decided to play
cut out and replace.......
next up the foot wells, having had the carpets out a year ago a
of a heater matrix leak I was reasonably confident that she w
Flintstone mobile and that the floors were still fairly well in
And sure enough she still looked presentable from the insi
after that it was back again to that rear quarter panel repair
rusted section hidden behind the back bumper. Surprisingly w
have to wait for the wire brush to find out the extent of the ru
again cut out all that was coloured that expensive shade of
orange...
don't mind admitting this one took a few goes to get the bend
08-30-2009,
02:32 PM
xworks
Wrencher
Join Date:
Aug 2009
Location:
Ireland
Posts: 203
#2
this.
first up cut out the lower section of the sunroof tray.....
which allows a good view of the brace that runs across the
roof right
behind the sunroof opening. This had to stay, as cutting
this out leaves
the roof very very flexible.
next up cut out the roof behind this brace......
next up, the roof skin at the rear of the sunroof hole rolls
in around
this brace.....
and the lip was buffed with the angle grinder untill the lip
could be broken off without doing any damage to the
brace. With everything now disconected underneath from
the brace all that remained was to remove
the roof skin from above it. Two carefull cuts......
with the skin cut down to the drain gutters on the side of
the roof, these
were then buffed down with the angle grider to the flat
mating surface,
ready for the new skin to sit on top (sorry lost the pic).
The last remaining piece of skin was the front section
which involved
drilling out the spot welds around the windscreen lip and
cutting it off....
and then offer up the roof to see how it fits. As said earlier
we had decided not
to remove the rear panel which concealed a couple of
inches
of the roof skin and instead decided to cut and weld the
roof here instead.
First up mark the roof to trim off the overhang....
next up was to trim the "A" pillar joins and get them sitting
right.....
the nice part about this run of welds is that theres a nice
little brace
that sits on the roof which conceals everything.....
we ran a
bead of weld an inch long every few inches........
and buffed them down flush when finished so the black rail
trim pieces
will fit back over.......
08-30-2009,
02:34 PM
xworks
Wrencher
Join Date:
Aug 2009
Location:
Ireland
Posts: 203
#3
but with the outside wire brushed you could see it had to
go....
aaah fu*k.....
the rust had actually started from the inside wheel arch
skin and spread
to the outer panel as they run quite close together......
fab and weld inner skin (it's now "fab" instead of fabricate,
with the
amount of bloody rust popin up on this thing i'm going to
be typing that
word alot).....
if someone sees it, it should mean i've just run over them,
in which case
they're unlikely to tell anybody about it.
right enough of that micky mouse crap, time to start
hackin the arch off.
With the paint stripped off you could see how far the rust
had spread up....
""PROFESSIONAL"" arch
rolling job, looked to be totally shot to bits.....
reckoned that since the outside skin was this bad most
probably the inner
skin would be shite too and both would probably need
cutting back. I then
realised with both bits going to be cut away I was going to
need a template
of some sort to help form the new arch metal in to the
same shape. So
before cutting anything I bent up and cut a bit of mdf to
act as a guide....
the inner skin was untouched by the brown pox, even the
lip cleaned up
with a slight wire brush, marvelous, see that, if this was an
Italian car the
bloody axle probably would have fell out on that last cut.
These Germans
know what their at.
anywho, now that you could see what need to be replaced
we could get on
we picked up this tool a few years ago and it's fairly handy
for pieces
like this, think it's called a "joggler", probably wrong
though, don't blame
me if they start laughing at ya when you ask for one down
and when you look at it up close you can see the teeth
which bends the
metal are shaped to bend it so the new piece runs up
behind the
original piece.....
like so.....
and after studying the other arch you could see that the
bend wasn't a
sharp 90degree but a little curved, so we made a little
dolly piece to
bend the metal over....
08-30-2009,
02:34 PM
#4
xworks
Wrencher
Join Date:
Aug 2009
Location:
Ireland
Posts: 203
and then start the long process of weldin it in, bit by bit.....
and weld the two lips together and all the little slits....
it's not 100% perfect, up close you can see where metals
been added in,
nothing a light skim of filler won't hide though, isopon, the
life blood of
many a bodger.
with that done there was just a little piece at the back of
the arch which
was left....
time to move inside the wheel arch then, on the whole the
main metal work
looked ok in there, but anywhere there was a bracket or
something
sticking out had caught the pox, such as this little lad
which supports
the plastic wheel arch liner....
next up was the little cover that runs over the fuel tank
breather pipes
in the arch and if the other parts of the shell had caught
the pox this bit had
contracted the plague. Heres what it should look like.....
and here's what's left intact of the old one once removed,
the differences
are quite subtle at first glance, but those with a keen eye
should be able
to tell the two apart....
had hoped this next bit would be available from the dealer
as a replacement
panel.....
08-30-2009,
02:37 PM
xworks
Wrencher
Join Date:
Aug 2009
Location:
Ireland
Posts: 203
#5
Been a while since the last update, reason being we've had some
engine woe's, a bit hard to understand when your cars just a
bare shell,
but alas it was not the M3 engine that was the cause for grief.
Instead it
was the turn of the 325 I bought to get me around while the M
was off
the road that decided it was time she had some attention too.
For a while now I've been the proud owner of an environmentally
friendly "biofuel" 325. She run's on both petrol and water, but
when
she started to use more water than petrol there was no avoiding
it any
longer. Work had to pause on the M to sort the head gasket on
the 325.
Thankfully the few gaskets needed for the 325 didn't amount to
much and
the job was a quick one, however the other half of Xworks
motorsport
didn't quite fair out quite so lucky when his engine decided to let
go at the
same time. It took a lot more funds and effort to get this kitten
purring
again....
with the engine woe's out of the way we were able to return to
the
BM again and something we've been meaning to get around to
for a few
years now. All the shells we've worked on in the past we've
usually
rolled over on to some old tires to gain access to underneath,
and while
this has worked ok, it's not very elegant and an ability to hold a
shell at
a different angle while working on it can be very helpful. So,
some box,
angle, tube, channel and a pair of housed bearings led to the
creation
of this....
the spit is designed for the weight of a bare shell and it can be
rotated with one hand. Both front and back stands are identical,
bar
the locking mechanism welded to the rear stand to hold the shell
at the desired angle. We used an automatic driveplate as it had a
circle
of holes allready in it and saved us having to make up and dill a
plate.
the uprights of the spit were made just tall enough to rotate the
shell 90 degrees as seen below....
the only thing left to finish in this arch was a small bracket at the
top
of it, which was fairly well gone.....
and repair the arch skin before rewelding the bracket left it
looking
fine again....
After this it was on to the arch the other side, starting again with
the shock tower. This time the actual tower itself was fine, but
instead
the arch skin right behind it had let go.....
2 choices, either crawl into the boot and cut and repair the skin
from
in there, or, cut a piece of the shock tower out of the way to do
the repair
from the outside.....
welded.....
then on to the lip itself. Again the outer lip once unrolled was
wasted but the innar lip was fine once wire brushed.......
08-30-2009,
02:38 PM
#6
next up, further down the arch where the side skirt sits
over.
When wire brushed up it looked ropey......
xworks
Wrencher
Join Date:
Aug 2009
Location:
Ireland
Posts: 203
innar skin
next up one of the holes on the sill where the side skirt
clips
go through was looking the worse for ware......
and thats about it for now, thankfully the end of the rust
repair is
near, which means it's nearly time for a 500mile round trip
to give the
shell a bath at the premises of SPL.....
http://www.surfaceprocessing.co.uk/for-cars.html
.
.
.
08-30-2009,
02:40 PM
xworks
Wrencher
Join Date:
Aug 2009
Location:
Ireland
Posts: 203
Not a huge update tonight as the car's been away for most of the
time since the last post, however it is back now and it's 101% rust free!
But before we get to that I'll start where I finished off last update,
there was a few small rust repairs to finish before departure....
the rear tail light panel seems to be a week point on e30's for rust
and since mine had all the other common rust points present it
came as no surprise that I had the full matching set...
drivers side tail light section revealed...
chop, measure, template, offer up, curse, bin, measure again, offer up...
magic wand...
arc eye...
and on to underneath...
template...
and paste...
and clean...
and underneath...
end of patches...
although now we had to remove every grommet and plug from the
shell in preparation for dipping...
After this was done we loaded up the shell on the trailer and headed for
the boat, 9 hours later we were at the front doors of SPL in Dudley
Birmingham, where we left the shell and returned home. Well I say home,
but that wasn't untill after some twat overturned a concrete truck on the
A55 and forced us to wait 8 hours in Hollyhead for the next boat.
Beautiful place Hollyhead, loads to do. Moving on.
4 weeks later came the call from SPL to say the shell was ready for
collection. We rigged up van and trailer and headed off again like two
little kiddies off to visit father christmas. Below is the pictures of what
we brought home. The first 2 pictures are not of my shell, but a member
of another forum's car who has kindly let me use them to show what
the car looks like mid process, after stripping but before primer dipping...
and then the finished article, one 100% rust free shell and panels...
Have to say I'm well happy with the outcome. The dipping process is
very good in so far as it reaches every little nook and cranny, no matter
what box section or bracket you look in or under it's clean and coated.
However there is some small downsides, this is underneath all an
industrial process and despite our best efforts to build a jig to keep the
shell safe while being moved around while in SPL's care there are some
"new" dents in the shell. They are few and small but unfortunately one
of them is smack bang in the middle of the new roof skin...
that last sentence took 10 seconds to write, the sanding took 2 days, it'll
be a while yet before this thing is getting speeding fines.
08-30-2009,
02:42 PM
#8
xworks
Wrencher
Join Date:
Aug 2009
Location:
Ireland
Posts: 203
after this it was time for seam sealer. We used two types
of sealer for this,
I had 3 quarters of a can of Upol sealer left over from
another job which
was still good to go and also bought another 2 cans of 3m
to finish the job off....
in the second picture above you can see the special brush
that seam sealer
comes with to reproduce factory finish effect. I don't like
using that brush
so instead you can see in the 1st pic the brush I prefer to
use. It's a normal
half inch brush with about 1cm cut off the end of the
bristles.
On the application itself basically you apply the sealer to
any panel gap on the
underside of the car where water can creep in
to where you don't want it....
next job after that was to rebond the roof. When the shell
was dipped
all sealer and bonder was disolved so it didn't make much
sense to bond
the roof before dipping, so we done it now....
and as you may have noticed from some of the earlier pic's
all
the little threaded nuts and brackets where you don't want
the
stone gaurd to get were masked up.
For the underseal itself we decided to go with the 3m gear
thanks to some advice from a member on here RJB6
(thanks Roy).
The stuff comes in foil packets and cost 18euro a pack....
The other thing needed was the special gun used to apply
the stuff, it cost 60 euro....
08-30-2009,
02:44 PM
xworks
Wrencher
Join Date:
Aug 2009
Location:
Ireland
Posts: 203
the keen eye'd amongst you might have noticed from earlier
pic's that we've eventually decided upon the final color. The
rear of both wings and the parts of the chassis legs covered by
the wings were hand painted Jet black before fitment....
also we ran a little bead of sealer along the top of the chassis
leg where the wing bolts down on to, it stops any stray water
sprayed up from the wheels creeping into the engine bay.
after that we masked off the interior and boot of the car. It's
not 100% tight like you might do if you were about to spray but
it's just to stop the majority of the sanding dust finding it's way
this is some of the stuff we'll be using over the next while.
First up is filler, some decent spreaders and a perspex mixing
board. It appears there's different types of fillers, some easier
to use (apply/sand) than other. I don't know enough to say
which are good and which are not, if your going to use some
your local paint suppliers should be able to advice. If they say
they're all the same please pm me and I'll return to my supplier
and beat a refund from him. The metal spreaders in the pic are
handy as I find them a lot easier to keep clean over the plastic
ones. And the bit of clear perspex is handy as a mixing board
as you can see any dirt on it rather than finding it as a dirty big
plough mark down the middle of that nice smooth run of filler
you just applied.....
next up are sanding blocks. Bought these a while back and love
them. As you can see there's 3 different sizes....
the steel can flex but should always remains consistent against the
panel your sanding. How much it flexes/curves can be controlled by
inserting 1 to 3 of the little steel rods into the rubber block....
the sandpaper for them comes in rolls and the back peals off
so it can stick to the steel....
and last thing is a decent can of grey primer. Like most people
I've used loads of cans of primer over the years and recently
made a discovery. Cheap motor factor cans of primer is cheap
for a reason, they splutter out the paint and take loads of coats
to get a decent covering. Whereas a decent aerosol from a paint
suppliers, sprays out in a nice mist and gives a much better
Before the body prep starts I'll just take a second to explain
why the choice of final colour took so long. We've decided to
spray the car Jet black and as I've found out a cars bodywork
really needs to be super flat to show off black paint. I struggled
to get my head around this first till it was explained to me.
Lighter colour cars don't throw up the same level of reflections
that a dark colour car does. That is to say a dent will be easily
spotted in any colour car if it's clean but if going for a mirror
type finish then a dark colour will make the imperfection much
easier to see. Heres a few pictures of some Subaru's i found on the
net, which hopefully show how much more reflections black
throws up......
both cars are spotless, but you can see how a black one will
show everything underneath whereas the white can hide a little.
So, no pressure then.
The next sequence of pictures are taken a little out of sink, just
to show what we're going to do to the whole car.
This is a flat piece of bodywork at the base of the rear windscreen.
It has never been damaged or dented from what I can tell so it's
as it left the factory....
now that we know the section can be gotten a little flatter, it's
preped for filler. I learnt this next lesson the hard way years ago.
Filler sticks to a panel by gripping the surface, if the surface is
silky smooth it don't grip that well, so, a light sanding all over
with 80 grit gives it something to grip to...
sanding is stopped when the highest parts of the metal just start to
show through. As you can see theres still a few patches of guide
coat, so another little bit required. However this time its only a
slight smear of filler required so we thin out the filler a little to
make it easier to apply thin. This is done by using some of this.....
it's fiberglass resin, the stuff you use on the tissue type fiberglass.
A little of this is mixed with the filler before adding
the hardener.....
and then when the whole lot is slopped together the end result
is a mix which is runnier and easier to put on in thin
smears....
08-30-2009,
02:45 PM
xworks
Wrencher
#10
Join Date:
Aug 2009
Location:
Ireland
Posts: 203
a little closer reveals the joint of the rear section. The stuff
you
can see either side is lead or solder which is what they
used
years ago to fill joints which has melted and ran out after
the
shell was baked after being primer dipped. We knew this
would
happen but decided to deal with it now rather than trying
to tease it
out before the shell went for dipping.....
The dark stains that show in the pictures are not rust
stains
by the way it's where some of the primer ran down the
panels
after the dipping.
First up was to sand away the solder residue.....
then very lightly rub it down with the sanding block and
240grit paper.....
you can see from the remaining guide coat where the
section of
quarter panel was added, that the joint was left low so it
could
be hidden with filler....
for any of you who may be concerned that the car will
need
stiffer springs to carry the extra weight of filler when its
finished, then rest assured, this is the "least straight"
panel on
the car requiring the most amount of filler. The total
amount of filler
left on the panel after sanding would be equal to about the
size of
a tennis ball. And the rest, well, it's just dust....
08-30-2009,
02:47 PM
#11
And finally,
Just before I leave the rear quarter panel theres another
little thing that can help sometimes. The joint on the
quarter
panel runs from top to bottom and as mentioned the whole
join was left slightly low so as to be covered be fillers. The
part I found trickiest to fill and sand was the crease line's
along
the wing. With a couple of coats of guide coat and a few
thin
layers of filler of slightly differing colours depending on the
amount
of red hardner that was used, it can become visually hard
to tell
if you've gotten the crease lines straight....
xworks
Wrencher
Join Date:
Aug 2009
Location:
Ireland
Posts: 203
now I can't say for sure but I'm fairly certain that that last
dent
would be the only one that that would have showed up if I
were
hand sanding this instead of block sanding it. Will the final
finish
be any the better for filling all these imperfections? Time
will
tell, but I've gotta believe it will otherwise it's an awful lot
of
sanding for nowt. 8O
next up a little sanding to everywhere gettin filled....
and then softly rub most of it back off again till theres no
more
guide coat left....
when done and you run you hand back over the panel it
certainly
feels smoother, but that could be because I've worn away
most
of my fingers with all the sanding.
There are some areas of the panelwork that are too small
to use
the sanding blocks on such as this bit at the bottom of the
front
wings, it's got a sharp curve to it and no matter how
flexible the
sanding block is, it's just to big to use....
the black side is soft sponge like, where as the red side is
harder
rubber like....
08-30-2009,
02:48 PM
#12
xworks
Wrencher
Join Date:
Aug 2009
Location:
Ireland
Posts: 203
looks nice and flat doesn't it, and in fairness it actually felt
reasonably
flat aswell, but we all know a car doesn't make to through
20 years
without getting the few odd belts of the supermarket
trolley, so, a
coat of guide coat....
a little hard to see in the picture I know, but you could feel
them
fairly obvious when you rub your hand over the panel, and
after
guide coating and sanding the panel down you can see
where the
high spots has rubbed through to the bare metal....
the high spots would need to be taken down level with the
rest of the
skin and to do this we break out a hammer and dolly...
and then beat the sh*t out of the raised section, well
actually no,
if your like me you have to use all your self restraint and
ever so
gently tap the metal down....
sand most of it back off again and take a little step closer
to
insanity in the process...
when that was done, flip the door over and sand every
inch to
complete the task of going insane...
[/color]
[color=white]
with the doors done it was on to the bootlid, as you can
see it's
still in the original colour because M3 bootlids are made
from GRP
and dipping it in a vat of acid would have resulted in an
expensive
and then a guide coat, white guide coat this time as the
mensa members
among you will have guessed black guide coat on a black
panel
would be as useful an under water hairdryer....
pretty neat...
up bolting
it to the bootlid backwards and forwards to get at it all. It
only
needed some filler here....
and here...
and here....
here...
and here...
and there....
next up was the flap that bolts on to the wing using these
bolt holes
underneath.....
only snag being that while the fibre glass flap was
predrilled with
the correct spacing holes....
so how to transfer the holes to the new flap and get them
in the
right place without making a balls of it? Sheet of paper the
size
of the flap taped to the spoiler, punch the holes in it and...
place the new flap down on top of the spoiler and hope the
paper
sticks to the new spoiler showing you where to drill the
holes.
I know, I can't believe it worked either...
to be honest the new bolts that came with the carbon flap
were handy,
instead of needing the flap to be drilled precisely for the
countersunk
heads, these came with a nice little cupped washer which
meant you
could elongate the holes underneath to get everything
lined up right....
08-30-2009,
02:50 PM
xworks
Wrencher
Join Date:
Aug 2009
Location:
Ireland
Posts: 203
#13
with the rear end panels done it was time to move closer
to the front.
And first up was the front bumper. I wasn't looking
forward to this as
I had a feeling there was going to be a good deal of effort
(read ballache)
involved in getting the bumper fit for paint. The problem
was that the
front bumper was originally off a red car and had been
resprayed
diamond swartz when fitted to this car, that in itself is not
usually a
problem if done right, however, this bumper looks as if it
wasn't
fully preped before the black was put on....
the bumper had the usual stone chips you'd expect from a
car of
it's age, but in the corners and along the crease lines you
could see
where the black paint was lifting to reveal the red
underneath because
the bumper wasn't fully sanded before painting.
only block sanded the top part as it's really the only large
flat surface on
the bumper, hand sanded the rest. Block showed up a dent
right in the
middle of the bumper, should've hand sanded it too....
this...
drove...
me....
f*cking ga ga....
and then do it all again with 180 grit untill you see the
scratches
fade away....
next up was the evo two chin spoiler, which was also multi
layered
red and black, unfortunately she'd experienced some
heavy landings
during her time and all the layers of paint had cracked
quite badly,
so she got sanded back to the bone...
removed it....
then take out the drill and mow a few holes through the
pair of them....
the plan was to sink a few threaded rivets into the chin
spoiler so the
the carbon piece could be easily bolted on and off in the
event of
it breaking down the line during a hard re-entry....
but the rivets were going to sit a little proud of the surface
and as such
not let the carbon splitter mount up flush...
whip out the rivet nut squeezers (i'm fairly sure thats not
it's proper name)...
8 of them in total....
08-30-2009,
02:51 PM
#14
xworks
Wrencher
Join Date:
Aug 2009
Location:
Ireland
Posts: 203
when the resin dries, redrill the hole, insert the bolts and
bolt it
all up, which leaves it looking like so....
after that was done it was on to sanding all the little bits
and bobs....
and then, finally, just one panel left to finish the prep
work.
The bonnet...
this had been dipped along with the shell and because of
this
the bonder that bonds the skeleton to the bonnet skin was
long
since dissolved which left the bonnet feeling fairly flexible
and weak'
You could feel some new dents on the surface courtesy of
SPL,
the most noticeable of which was this one....
Still, how bad could they be, few hours and all this would
be finished....
please"
.
.
.
"no you must have misheard me I only need the price for
one please"
.
.
"HOW MUCH"
.
.
. dial tone
one secondhand bonnet later...
quick block sand with 320 grit revealed only some small
dents...
and some nudge marks across the front from some over
zealous
closing of the bonnet....
after that, a quick sand of the boot, interior and the engine
bay.
Spent a little more time in the engine bay getting all the
seam sealer
sanded smooth, I don't like the factory finish brush marks
look.
and then finally it was time to get ready for some primer.
Only problem was the garage was an inch thick in dust and
someone had filled it with various crap over the last 12
months
08-30-2009,
02:53 PM
#15
managed to get a small bit done again since the last post,
so, roll a fat one or crack open a beer cause here comes
the boring details.
xworks
Wrencher
Join Date:
Aug 2009
Location:
Ireland
Posts: 203
applied alot
heavier to build up a thicker coat. The reason for using
filler primer?
Although the fillers was block sanded down smooth the
shell is still not
smooth enough for the top coat yet, the spraying and
sanding of the filler
primer will get it the last step. Plus, unlike metal, filler is
porous and
will absorb some paint, if the shell was just given a quick
coat of primer
and then top coat the paints can sometimes sink down on
the filler spots
leaving your beautiful pride and joy looking like it was
sprayed
by a blind man with aerosol cans in a force 9 hurricane.
(may be a slight exaggeration).
And this is how it went,
after the car is taped up all the panels are given a quick
rub down
with this stuff. It's called panel wipe or pre-cleaner and is a
weak version
of standard thinners. It should clean off any crap that
could react with
the paint going on...
with the car now clean and ready to go theres one small
job to do before
painting and thats set up somewhere to clean the gun and
mixing pots
after your finished. The items used are, 1 gallon can of
standard thinners
to clean with, tools for dismantling the gun, some rags, a
scotch pad
and an empty can for the dirty thinners. The professional
work bench
pictured below should be available from your local snap-on
dealer.
the reason for setting up the cleaning area before hand is,
from past
experience, once you are finished spraying, the paint in
and on the various
tools you've used tends to dry and harden quite quickly.
Should you
wish to take a more laid back approach to cleaning up
afterwards then
these are the only tools you will require....
you've no idea where i'm going with this one have you? Let
me explain.
A long while ago after spraying the interior on an orange
rally car I became
acutely aware that the piece of your face not covered by
the gas mask can become
covered in a light coating of the paint your using as it
blows back off the area your
spraying. When that colour is orange and you spend the
next several days looking
like an Umpa-lumpa from Willy wonka's chocolate factory it
focuses the mind on
finding a solution. Hence, the Vaseline, spread a little on
exposed face to avoid this....
and the shell is given a final wipe over with a "tac rag".
(Lint free rag
with some sticky gue coated on them so all the tiny dust
crap sticks
to it rather than your car)...
hardner....
then hook it up to the air line and spray like the clappers.
It can be
helpful to have an old panel in the booth so you can
practice the
technique of getting runs in your paint so that you have it
mastered
when you turn your attention to the shell...
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