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Memory
The women have a lot to talk about;
they remember their homes,
and dinners they made.
Poem written by Eva Schulzova, aged twelve,
in the Terezin Concentration Camp
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baby foods, it has been put there to attract not the children
themselves who, as weve seen, can become emotionally
bonded to flavours that are strange, sour or strong given the
right memories but to please adults. The babies are not the
ones who buy the food. It is the grown-ups memories that
the food companies are trying to appeal to.25 As they warm
the sterilized bottle, parents sniff their babys milk; or maybe
take a tiny sip. It is they, not the babies, who have memories
of how childhood milk ought to taste: creamy and sweet, like
milk left behind in the cereal bowl.
Do you remember your first passion fruit, your first avocado,
your first Thai green curry? Such flavour memories can seem
inconsequential, the stuff of gastronomes. Ah yes, it was in
Marseille in 1987 that I first tasted an authentic bouilla
baisse.
Yet, from the perspective of neuroscience, food memories
are not something slight. Registering different flavours is one
of the main ways that our bodies interact with the world
around us. Amazingly enough, the human olfactory bulb is
the only part of the central nervous system that is directly
exposed to our environment, through the nasal cavity. Our
other senses sight, sound and touch need to travel on a
complicated journey via nerves along the spinal cord up to
the brain. Smell and flavour, by contrast, surge direct from
plate to nose to brain.
Conventional wisdom used to be that humans have rather
a weak sense of smell, compared to that of other animals:
dogs, say (witness the fact that we dont have sniffer humans
at airports). But recent research suggests the contrary. We
may not have a bloodhounds ability to track a scent, but
our olfactory discernment is second to none. We can detect
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were a sound instead of a taste, you could say that the French
heard the notes; but only the Algerians appreciated the music
of it. Because their memories of it were more expansive, mint
actually took up more of their brain.
When we are unable to obtain the flavours we remember
from childhood, it can give rise to longings so intense it is
hard to think of anything else. The anosmia sufferers we met
at the start of the chapter such as Marlena Spieler would con
firm this: she hankers for the flavours that would make her
feel like Marlena again.
Some of the most poignant examples of this flavouryearning are the food obsessions of prisoners of war. When
Primo Levi was imprisoned in a work camp near to Ausch
witz called Buna, he remembered that fellow prisoners not
only groaned in their sleep, but licked their lips: They are
dreaming of eating; this is also a collective dream . . . you not
only see the food, you feel it in your hands, distinct and con
crete, you are aware of its rich and striking smell.
Among memoirs by POWs of the Second World War, a
common theme is not just hunger but the fevered memories
it gave rise to of all the things they would eat again once they
were free. Very seldom did they build these dreams about the
grown-up food of sophisticated restaurants, but the food of
childhood and of home: stodgy, filling and safe. One British
ex-POW remembered dreaming two nights in a row about
omelettes and treacle pudding. He also remem
bered his
bitter disappointment on waking up, since Either was as
obtainable as a slice of the moon.31
Food obsession reached a particularly feverish pitch
among European, American and Australian POWs in the Far
East, where the mismatch between their rations of rice and
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the food they longed for was enough to make them slightly
unhinged. Food historian Sue Shephard writes that most of
the men in the Japanese camps regressed to a childish state.
They all hallucinated about sugar: for the British it might
be chocolate eclairs, suet puddings and steaming bowls of
buttercup-yellow custard; for the Americans, Hershey bars,
mothers apple pie and every kind of layer cake, from devils
food to coconut. Some men refused to join in the collective
discussions of food because it was too painful to be reminded
of how far they were from home, but for most of them, the
crazy food talk became a survival mechanism to get through
the endless days of boredom and brutality. A long-term POW
recalled that after the first year and a half or so, the food talk
had completely supplanted daydreams about women.
Some men went so far as to write down elaborate menus
and even recipes on scraps of paper. Film-maker Jan Thomp
son, who spent twenty years interviewing former American
POWs for her 2012 documentary Never the Same, found that
a common theme was writing down Thanksgiving menus,
recon
structed from memories of child
hood gatherings.32
All memory is a distortion, and in their half-starved state,
these men constructed holiday menus more lavish than any
of them can have actually enjoyed as a child. In Japan, MessSergeant Morris Lewis felt oppressed by the responsibility
of looking after his soldiers as well as himself. Sergeant
Lewis kept himself sane by writing down an extraordinary
Thanksgiving dinner that included Virginia baked ham, fried
rabbit, cranberry sauce, snowflake potatoes, candied sweet
potatoes, buttered sweetcorn, buttered asparagus tips, green
stuffed olives. Then, Assorted Cookies, Assorted Nuts,
Assorted Candies, Assorted Ice Cream; also Ass. Jams and
Fresh Ass. Fruit & Grapes.
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Whatever was there in the first sip, its gone by the third.
The potion is losing its magic. The surge of memory is shortlived. Scientists call this desensitization. When you try to get
back to the past through food, so often you find you cant,
because either the food has changed or you have. This is one
of the many things that makes packaged foods so alluring.
With their bright labels and never-changing fonts, they seem
to offer a continuity with the past that you just cant get from
other foods. The easiest way to get the hit is to keep going
back to the drugstore.
I bite into my Hostess snowball, and retreat to a world
where the only worry is what to ask your mother to put in
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your lunch box the next day or which pieces of candy you
will select at the Kwik-Pak on your way home from school.42
Jill McCorkles vivid description from her 1998 story Her
Chee-to Heart captures the nostalgia many of us feel for
various processed foods. During the ups and downs of grow
ing up, they kept us company. No matter what horrors or
boredom the school day held, reading the breakfast cereal
box was a daily thrill, and its contents could be relied on
always to taste the same. The names of packaged foods were
dreamed up by marketeers with our childish pleasure in mind
and formulated to give our sweet tooth a buzz. And when we
grow up, we repay the food companies with a loyalty that
looks something like filial devotion. When Hostess Twinkies
ceased production in November 2012, there was mourning
in the US for this highly processed Golden Sponge Cake with
a Creamy Filling. Though it was composed of shortening,
corn syrup, colourings and other unwholesome ingredients,
with a shelf-life so long it became the punchline of many
jokes, for many the Twinkie was the taste of childhood. It
was Prousts madeleine for the junk-food generation.
When you get three or more adults with nothing in com
mon together, surprisingly often the conversation will turn
to the junk foods we knew and loved as children. There is a
communal comfort to be had in reciting the names out loud,
together, like a liturgy. In Britain, the catechism of nostalgia
includes such sweets as Spangles, Jelly Tots, Rolos, Frys
Chocolate Creams, Space Dust. These are common reference
points that take us back to some joyous pre-pubertal age
when life was free and easy.
No home-cooked food, no matter how delicious, can
match the power for bringing people together in misty-eyed
recollection of industrially produced food. Convenience
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