A complete guide to the repair,

cleaning, and adjustment of

binoculars-for
the hobbyist as
well as for the advanced
technician.
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By: Alii Service Notes

Includes-optical &
mechanical
operation
-disassembly
-cleaning
-lubrication
-repairs
-collimation and
other
adjustments
-zoom binoculars

Repairing & Adjusting Binoculars

By Alii Service Notes
Copyright 1996 by Alii Service Notes.

Other books by Alii Service Notes:

Camera Care
Camera Technician's Guide
Parts and Information Directory
Restoring Classic and Antique Cameras

Canon Camera Repair Notes

Minolta Camera Repair Notes
Nikon Camera Repair Notes
Pentax Camera Repair Notes

Repair and adjust

binoculars!

Repair your own binoculars. Or add binocular repair to your business. Here's
how to restore binoculars to proper working condition-including:

o
o

o
o
o
o
o

basics of binoculars-optical
and mechanical
operation.
the tools you need to repair binoculars.
cleaning optics.
lubrication.
how to disassemble binoculars-and how to avoid disturbing
adjustments.
adjustments-collimation,
rotational error, diopter setting.
zoom binoculars-how they work and how to adjust them.

Fully illustrated with over 150 drawings and photos.

Contents:
Introduction
How to use this book

37

Section A-Binocular
basics
Power of Binoculars
Optical Principle of Binoculars
Variations in the Basic Design
Other Types of Prisms
Quality Differences in Binoculars
& Repair Techniques
Section B-Disassembly
Tools for Disassembly
Cleaning Binocular Optics
Cleaning Metal Parts
Lubrication
Disassembly Techniques
Objective-lens parts
Removing the prism covers
Removing the ocular assembly from a
rocker-arm design
Removing the ocular assembly from a
focus-knob design
Porro prisms, prism shelves
Disassembly and adjustment of the oculars
Variations in Oculars

Disassembly of Opera Glasses

Reassembly of Opera Glasses
Summary of Disassembly Rules and Precautions
Section C-Adjusting
Collimation

Binoculars

Checking Collimation
Objective-Lens Adjustments
Eyelens Adjustments
Porro-Prism Adjustments
Adjusting Rotational Error with the Porro Prisms
Adjusting the Porro Prism for Collimation
Prism-Shelf Adjustments
Adjusting Focus
Other Adjustments
Summary of Optical Adjustments
Section D-Zoom Binoculars
Operation of the Zoom Lens
Disassembly of the Oculars
Other Coupling Systems
Removing the Ocular Tubes
Checking Ocular Timing
Other Types of Zoom Binoculars
Index

2
18
55
60
35
46
45
3
68
54
20
21
36
31
30
48
47
17
16
7
37
15
24
22
34
950
67
65
53
26
25
55
42
4
18
69

INTRODUCTION
Since
starting
AliiSome
Service
Notes,
we'vetohad
many
for a book
on
binocular
repair.
people
just want
repair
theirrequests
own binoculars.
Others
want to add binoculars to their present repair line. We've tried to design this book
for both needs as well as for the needs of experienced binocular-repair technicians.
The text materials don't provide step-by-step coverage of every type of binocular;
we concentrate on the conventional porro-prism binoculars, the type you'll most
frequently encounter. However, the theory behind the repair and adjustments applies to other types of binoculars as well.

Binocular or binoculars?
You'll see binocular, describing a single unit, written both in the singular and in the
plural-a
binocular or a pair of binoculars. The binocular consists of two halves
that are practically mirror images of one another. Either the singular or the plural is
acceptable.

Where to get parts and tools for binocular repair.

Most of the tools you need for binocular repair are standard tools available from a
variety of sources. At the bottom of this page, we've listed four sources for small
tools and special lubricants. Each of these sources provides a complete catalog.
Parts and specialized tools present a different problem. If a binocular needs parts,
the repair may not be economical-at
least for an inexpensive pair of binoculars.
However, a good pair of binoculars may justify the parts costs. The only parts source
is the manufacturer of the binoculars.
Most of the specialized tools described in this book also come from manufacturers
of binoculars. The addresses and phone numbers of binocular manufacturers are
listed in another Alii publication-the
Parts and Information Directory.

Sources of Tools & Lubricants

Alii Service Notes

Fargo Enterprise

P.O. Box 30871

Honolulu, HI 96820
phone: (808) 848-0029
fax: (808) 848-0691

P.O. Box 6505

Vacaville, CA 95696
phone: (707) 446-1120
fax: (800) 249-3182

Cam-Comp, Inc

Vivitar Corporation

325 Route 17M, Suite 5

Monroe, NY 10950
phone: (914) 782-4248
fax: (800) 735-3319

1280 Rancho Conejo Blvd.

Newbury Park, CA 91319
phone: (800) 421-2381
fax: (805) 498-5086

HOW TO USE THIS BOOK

If

you'reThere
neware
to four
binocular
you with
can the
use basics
this book
as a self-study
program.
sectionsrepair,
that start
and proceed
progressively
to more complex subjects.

The first section-Section

A-provides background information on binoculars. Here
you gain the background you'll need before taking apart a pair of binoculars for the
first time. Section A also provides the terminology used in the remaining sections.
Section B starts with information on tools and techniques. You first learn about the
special tools that are needed for repairing binoculars. You also learn how to clean the
optics and what lubrications to use on the mechanical parts.
The rest of Section B covers disassembly techniques. You'll find that this material is
much easier to understand if you have a pair of binoculars to disassemble. Ideally,
you should start with a "junk" pair of binoculars. Learn the basics-and
how to
avoid disturbing adjustments-before
you tackle customers' binoculars.
Garage sales and flea markets sometimes provide a source for inexpensive binoculars you can use as practice equipment. Or check with businesses that often do binocular repair, such as camera-repair shops. Such shops may have binoculars that
were "donated" by customers who didn't want to pay the charge for repairs.
Section C covers the optical adjustments. If you have some background in binoculars-and
you just want to adjust a pair of binoculars-you
may be able to skip
directly to this section.
Again, if you're new to the field, it helps to have a pair of binoculars you can use
when following the instructions in Section C. Try throwing out the adjusunems. And
then make the adjustments on your practice binoculars.
Section D covers the oculars (eyepiece assemblies) in zoom binoculars. You probably should not attempt repairs on zoom binoculars until you're proficient in the first
three sections. Zoom binoculars just add variable magnification to the principles
already covered.

SECTION A-BINOCULAR
TheButword
binocular
to viewingbetween
with both
eyes.
there's
more ofrefers
a difference
binoculars and telescopes than the viewing method. In this
section, we'll take a look at those differences along with
the basic optical principles governing binoculars.
Fig. Al shows the terminology we'll be using in this
book. The large lenses at the front of the binoculars are
the objective lenses. These lenses gather the light from
the image and bring that light to a focus point inside
the binoculars.
The eyepiece assemblies-the
oculars-magnify
the
images formed by the objective lenses. The ocular is
the complete eyepiece assembly. It consists of the eyelens (the lens closest to your eye) as well as the other
lenses in the eyepiece. Many binoculars have rubber
eyecups at the ends of the oculars. If you wear eyeglasses, you can roll up the rubber eyecups.
One side of the binoculars is hinged to the other side.
Each side of the binocular pair mounts to the hinge
pin. The hinge allows you to change the separation
between the binocular sides to match the distance between your eyes. You simply spread the sides further
apart-Dr move the sides closer together-until the dis-

DECORATOR

CAP

OBJECTIVE

BASICS

tance between the eyelenses matches the distance between your eyes. The distance between the eyelenses
is the interpupillary
distance (the distance between
the pupils of your eyes).
Many binoculars include a scale-the IPD scale-- for
setting the interpupillary distance, Fig. A2. The IPD
scale shown in Fig. A2 is on a disc attached to the
hinge pin-the index is on one of the ocular arms. If
you remember your own interpupillary distance, you
can quickly set the binoculars by referring to the IPD
scale.
The calibrations on the IPD scale are usually in millimeters. For example, spread the binocular sides until
the index aligns with "70." The distance between the
centers of the eyelenses is now 70mm.
Practically all binoculars have two focus adjustments
for matching the binoculars to your own eyes and to
the subject distance. A common design uses a focus
knob, Fig. AI, that moves both oculars simultaneously.
The oculars move in out along a threaded shaft-closer
to the binocular body or further from the binocular body.
But your two eyes probably don't have identical cor-

LENSES

OBJECTIVELENS TUBE

FRONT PRISM COVER

BODY
FOCUS
KNOB
HINGE PIN

REAR PRISM COVER

OCULAR

ARMS

EYECUP

FIG. A 1 The common terms for the parts of binoculars.

4/BINOCULAR BASICS

ADJUSTABLE

OCULAR

(PO SCALE

FIG. A2 Many binoculars have a scale to show the interpupillary distance (IPO). This
scale is calibrated in millimeters.

rections-that's
why one of the two oculars is adjustable, Fig. A3. Turning the control knob moves the adjustable ocular along screw threads. The adjustable
ocular then moves in or out, allowing individual correction.
With most binoculars, the adjustable ocular is the righthand ocular-the
ocular you look through with your
right eye. Focus the binoculars by using the focus knob
to adjust the focus through the fixed ocular. Then adjust the adjustable ocular.
For example, consider that the right-hand ocular is the
adjustable ocular. First close your right eye. Turn the
focus knob until the image seen through the left side
appears sharp. Then close your left eye and open your
right eye. Turn the diopter control until the image seen
through the right side appears sharp. You've just focused the oculars according to the subject distance and
to your own eyesight.
The adjustable
underside, Fig.
correction. You
steps correction

ocular is normally calibrated on the

A3. The 0 on the scale indicates no
can turn the control knob to set up to 3
in either direction.

CONTROL

KNOB

DIOPTER SCALE

FIG. A3 The diopter scale is usually on

the bottom of the right-side ocular.
Typically the adjustable ocular allows a
correction of :t3 diopters.

ROCKER ARM

Although you will encounter variations in the scales,

the calibrations are normally quite close from one pair
of binoculars to another. The steps of correction are
based on diopters-units
of correction for individual
eyesight.
The index is on the ocular arm. If you remember the
correction you need, you can preset the adjustable ocular. Then turn only the focus knob to focus the binoculars.
In some binoculars, the focus control is at the center of
the hinge pin-between the sides ofthe binoculars. The
design shown in Fig. A4 uses a rocker arm as the focus

OCULARS

FIG. A4 The rocker arm moves both

oculars simultaneously.
BINOCULAR BASICS/S

control. Push one side of the rocker arm to move the

oculars in one direction; push the other side of the rocker
arm to move the oculars in the opposite direction.

SCREW ON
HINGE PIN

In Fig. A4, a carn slot rather than a threaded shaft moves

the oculars. The carn slot is in the rocker arm, Fig. AS.
A screw on the hinge pin rides in the cam slot.
Pushing the left -hand side of the rocker arm moves the
cam slot as shown in Fig. AS (B). The carn slot then
drives the ocular assembly toward the front of the binoculars. If you push the right -hand side of the rocker
arm, the cam slot moves as shown in Fig. A5 (C). The
ocular assembly now moves toward the back of the binoculars.

B
You normally can't see the cam slot in the rocker armit's covered by a decorator cap, Fig. A6 . The decorator
cap just snaps into place.
In Fig. A6, we've removed the ocular assembly from a
pair of binoculars with a rocker-arm focus control. The
ocular assembly-the
two ocular arms with the
oculars-mounts
to the hinge pin, Fig. A6. As you

FIG. AS The cam slot is part of the

rocker arm. A screw on the hinge pin
rides in the cam slot.

DECORATOR
PLATE

move the rocker arm, the hinge pin moves toward the
front or toward the back of the binoculars. The hinge
pin carries the ocular assembly in the same direction.
To see the cam slot and the screw on the hinge pin,
remove the snap-fit decorator plate, Fig. A6. Fig. A7
shows the rocker arm with the decorator plate removed.
You've seen that the rocker mm moves the complete
hinge pin to adjust the focus. By contrast, the focus
knob of the binoculars shown in Fig. Al moves only
the shaft that carries the ocular assembly. The ocular
arms fit over the shoulder of the ocular shaft, Fig. A8.

HINGE PIN

FIG. A6 Binoculars with the ocular

assembly removed. The rocker arm
moves the hinge pin in or out. The hinge
pin carries the ocular assembly.
6/BINOCULAR BASICS

The ocular shaft screws into the focus knob, Fig. A8.
And the focus knob screws into the hinge pin. But only
the focus knob can rotate-the oculm' arms prevent the
ocular shaft from rotating with the focus knob.
Since the ocular shaft can't rotate, it moves in or out
along its screw threads. The ocular shaft then carries
the ocular assembly in the sarne direction.

Some binoculars-such
as military binoculars-eliminate the control that moves the two oculars simultaneously. Both oculars are individually adjustable, Fig.
A9. You must adjust each ocular individually for your
own eyesight. Each ocular has diopter calibrations simi1ar to the calibrations shown in Fig. A3.

SCREW ON HINGE PIN

POWER OF BINOCULARS
Binoculars are rated according to the magnification and
to the diameter of the objective lenses. Increasing the
diameter of the objective lenses increases the light-gathering ability. So, in low-light situations, the larger objective lenses do a better job by gathering more of the
existing light.
Most binocular objectives are either 30mm in diameter
or 50mm in diameter. The term night glasses refers to
binoculars with 50mm objective lenses. The larger objective lenses are better suited for use at night.
You'll see a pair of numbers on the binoculars that indicate both the magnification of the oculars and the
diameter of the objective lens-such as 7 x 30. The 7x
is the magnification of the oculars-the oculars magnify the image formed by the objectives 7 times. The
second number - 30--tells you that the diameter of
each objective lens is 30mm.

FIG. A7 Removing the decorator plate

from the rocker arm (see Fig. A6)
uncovers the hinge-pin screw and the
cam slot.

HINGEPIN

SCREW THREADS
OF OCULAR SHAFT

SCREW THREADS OF
!

FOCUS KNOB
FOCUS KNOB

ADJUSTABLE

OCULARS

SHOULDER OF
OCULAR SHAFT

FIG. A8 With a focus-knob system, the

ocular assembly mounts to the shoulder
of the ocular shaft.

FIG. A9 In some binoculars, both

oculars are individually adjustable.
There's no control to move the oculars
simultaneously.
BINOCULAR BASICSn

The power and the cliameter of the objective lenses also tell you the diameter of the exit pupil-the
actual image area. To see the exit pupils, look
through the binoculars at an illuminated source-perhaps
the sky. Now
hold the binoculars around 6" from
your eyes. The illuminated circles you
can see at the centers of the eyelenses,
Fig. Al 0, are the exit pupils.
Determine the diameter of the exit pupils by the formula:
exit pupil = diameter of objective lens
power
Zoom binoculars, Fig. All, allow you to change the
power-the
actual magnification of the oculars. The
zoom binoculars have a control that shifts the internal
ocular optics to change the magnification. The optical
principle is similar to that used in zoom lenses for cameras. As you move the zoom lever, Fig. All, a magnification scale shows you the actual setting, Fig. A12.

FIG. A10 The power and the diameter of

the Objective lenses is normally marked
on a cover plate next to one ocular. In
this example, the magnification is 7
power. The diameter of each objective
lens is 50mm.

The zoom binoculars shown in Fig. All are calibrated

7X-15X35. The calibrations 7X-15X show that the
oculars can then be changed in magnification between
7 power and 15 power. In this example, the diameter of
each objective lens is 35mm.

INDEX

ZOOM LEVER

FIG. A 11 Zoom binoculars allow you to

change the magnification of the
oculars.
8/BINOCULAR BASICS

FIG. A 12 The numbers under this zoom

ocular indicate the selected
magnification. The index ring rotates as
you move the zoom lever. In this
example, the magnification is between 9
and 10 power.

OPTICAL PRINCIPLES OF BINOCULARS

The optical principles of binoculars are similar to the
principles of another sighting instrument, the telescope,
Fig. A13. With the telescope, the objective lens gathers
the light and forms an image inside the telescope, Fig.
A14. The image formed by the objective lens is called
a virtual image-it exists in space rather than being
projected onto a surface such as a movie screen or another optical surface.
An image projected onto a surface is, by contrast, a
real image. If you could place such a surface behind
the objective lens, the virtual image would become a
real image-one
that you could see. For example, say
you're looking inside the telescope-directly
at the
image formed by the objective lens. You won't see the
virtual image. But, if you place a ground glass or a
focusing screen at the focal point of the objective lens,
you will see the image.

FIG. A13 The telescope, a close relative

of binoculars.

I
POSITION

OF

FOCAL POINT
OF OCULAR

VIRTUAL IMAGE

~I
I

INCOMING
LIGHT
RAYS

FOCAL
LENGTH
OF
OCULAR

FOCALPOINT
OF/
OBJECTIVE
>

LENS

FOCAL LENGTH OF OBJECTIVE

LENS

EYELENS

FIG. A14

LIGHT RAY

To bend the light rays as shown in Fig. A14, the objective lens relies on the optical principle of refraction.
Refraction is the bending of the light rays as the light
passes from a medium of one density to a medium of a
different density. With the lens, the light passes from
air (low density) into the glass of the lens (high density).
The glass then slows down the light ray. Because of
the curvature of the lens, one side ofthe light ray slows
down before the other side slows down. For example,
consider the light ray entering the lens in Fig. A15.
Because of the curvature of the lens, the bottom edge
of the light ray slows down before the top edge slows
down. As a result, the light ray bends down.

FIG. A15 The curvature of the glass and

the density of the glass determine how
much the light ray bends (refracts).
BINOCULAR BASICS/9

But when the light ray leaves the lens in Fig. A15, the
top edge of the light ray enters the air first. The light
ray speeds up when it enters the air. Since the top of
the light ray speeds up before the bottom of the light
ray, the light ray bends up.
The amount the light ray refracts depends on two factors: the curvature of the lens and the density of the
glass. Increasing the curvature of the lens causes the
light ray to bend more. The more dense the glass, the
more the light ray bends-the
denser medium slows
down the light ray a greater amount.
If the subject is at infinity (an infinite distance from the
lens), the incoming light rays are parallel to one another, Fig. A14. The objective lens brings the light rays
to a focus point. The distance between the optical center of the objective lens and the focal point when the
subject is at an infinite distance is the focal length of
the lens.
You can optically simulate a target at an infinite distance-you'll
see one method in Section C (Adjusting
Binoculars). But for test purposes, you can consider a
target at a distance of around two miles to be infinity.
In Fig. A14, the subject is a point source of light. A
normal scene, however, is made up of many point
sources coming from different directions. In Fig. A16,

we've added two more point sources from the subject

after passing through the objective lens. Now the objective lens brings the point sources to a plane-the
focal plane.
The focal point of the ocular, Fig. A14, is at the same
place as the focal point of the objective lens. The ocular magnifies the virtual image and forms a real image-an image you can see by looking through the ocular. As with binoculars, you can move the ocular in or
out to correct for your own eyesight.
If the subject is at a focus distance closer than infinity,
the incoming light rays are no longer parallel-rather,
the light rays diverge from the subject. The objective
lens brings together the light rays at a point behind the
focal point in Fig. A14. As a result, the virtual image is
formed closer to the ocular. You must then move back
the ocular-further
from the objectiveto bring the
image into sharp focus.
The telescope shown in Fig. A14 is an aerial telescope,
used for viewing such things as stars and planets. The
image appears inverted (upside down) and reverted
(reversed from left to right)-a
positive lens (a lens
that focuses the light rays at a point behind the lens as
shown in Fig. A14) always inverts and reverts the image. The subject rays coming from the bottom of the
lens are focused at the top of the focal plane, Fig. A16.

w
Z
c(
...J

Q.

...J

c(

o
LL

FIG. A 16 All the image points from the subject are focused at the focal plane.
1O/BINOCULAR

BASICS

LENS-ERECTING

SYSTEM

FIG. A17 With a terrestrial telescope, the image passes through an erecting system.
The image you view is right side up and correctly oriented from right to left.
To make the image appear right side up, it's necessary
to add more optics-an erecting system. The erecting
system erects the image. In Fig. AI?, we've added a
lens- erecting system to the telescope. The lens-erecting system inverts and reverts the image once morenow the image appears right side up and correctly oriented from right to left. The telescope is now called a
terrestrial telescope-a telescope used to view objects
on the earth rather than in outer space.

INTEROBJECTIVE

DISTANCE

INTERPUPILLARY

DISTANCE

If you attached two of the telescopes shown in Fig.

AI? side by side, you could use both your eyes to
view the subject. But you still would not have a typical pair of binoculars. With most binoculars, the objective lenses are spaced further apart than the oculars.
The increased space between the objective lenses results in a greater 3-dimensional effect.
When you look at an object, each of your eyes sees the
object from a slightly different angle. As a result, you
get a 3-dimensional view. If you close one eye, you'll
find that your view has suddenly become 2 dimensional.
You see height and width. But the object appears to
have no depth- it's flat, like the picture in a magazine.

FIG. A 18

The binoculars increase the 3-dimensional effect by

placing the objectives further apart than the eyelenses.
Each objective lens sees the same subject. But the two
objective lenses see the subject from different angles.
The distance between the objectives is called the
interobjective distance-that's
the distance measured
from the center of one objective to the center of the
other objective, Fig. AI8. The distance between the
eyelenses, as mentioned earlier, is called the interpupillary distance.
To move the objectives further apart than the ocularsas well as to shorten the overall length of the binocular-each binocular side displaces the light. The light
travels in the path shown in Fig. A19. Prisms do the
job of displacing the light and shortening the required
length of the light path.

FIG. A 19 The light path inside the

binoculars.

BINOCULAR BASICS/11

A prism is a piece of optical glass designed to reflect

light rays. There are different types of prisms distinguished by their shape or by the manner in which they
reflect the light rays. For example, a 90 prism, Fig.
A20, reflects the light at a 90 angle. A 90 prism is
also called a right-angle prism-both
for the shape
and for the direction that the prism reflects the light (a
right angle).

RIGHT
ANGLE

Fig. A21 shows the light path through the 90 prism.

The reflecting surface is at a 45 angle in order to reflect the light 90. Light enters the entrance face of the
prism. The reflecting surface then reflects the light ray
90. The reflected light ray leaves the prism through
the exit face.

EXIT FACE

FIG. A20 The 90-or

You can always determine the angle of a reflected light
ray by applying the law of reflection. The law states
that the angle of reflection-angle
b in Fig. A21-always equals the angle of incidence-angle
a in Fig.
A2l. To detennine the angles, draw a line that's perpendicular to the reflecting surface-the line is called
the normal, Fig. A2l. The angle of incidence is on
one side of the normal; the angle of reflection is on the
other side.

right-anglEr-prism.

ENTRANCE
FACE

REFLECTING

SURFACE

-+- -

A min'or uses a silver coating on one side to reflect the

light. All the light reflects from the silver coating-the
glass serves only as a flat surface for the coating. But
most prisms don't need silver coatings to reflect the
light. The reflection takes place inside the prism; there's
no glass-air surface. Thanks to an optical plinciple called
total internal reflection, all of the light striking the
reflecting surfaces is reflected. None of the light passes
through the reflecting surface.

NORMAL

Most binoculars use porro prisms, Fig. A22, to displace the light path. In effect, a porro prism acts like
two 90 plisms placed face to face, Fig. A23.

FIG. A21 Light path through the 90 prism.

REFLECTING

EXIT FACE

SURFACES

90' PRISMS

FIG. A22

The porro prism.

121BINOCULAR BASICS

FIG. A23 If you cement two 90 prisms

together as shown, you have the porro
prism.

Light enters one face of the porro prism and is internally reflected 90 ,Fig. A24-from one 45 surface
to the other 45 surface. In Fig. A24, the dashed line is
the normal. Angle a, the angle ofincidence, equals angle
b, the angle of reflection. The second right -angle prism
reflects the light 90 to the exit face of the porro prism.

ENTRANCE

FACE~

Notice in Fig. A24 that the light leaves the porro prism
180 opposite to the entrance direction. The light path
has been displaced by a distance that corresponds to
the distance between the 45 surfaces.
A second porro prism returns the light ray to its original path, Fig. A25. With two porro prisms working together, the direction of the light ray remains unchanged-but the light ray is displaced. Fig. A26 shows
how the two prisms are actually positioned inside the
binoculars.
Besides displacing the light, the two porro prisms serve
another function-they
provide a prism-erecting system. The two porro prisms sit at a 90 angle to one
another, Fig. A27. The inverted and reverted image
formed by the objective lens is then turned right side
up and corrected from left to right by the porro prisms.
One porro prism corrects the image in one plane; the
second porro prism corrects the image in the second
plane. In Section C (Adjusting Binoculars), you'll see
what happens to the image if the angle between the
porro prisms is greater or less than 90 .

FIG. A24 Light path through the porro

prism.

ENTRANCE

RAY

I
~
I

V
EXIT RAY

FIG. A25 Two porro prisms work

together to displace the light ray without
changing the direction.

FIG. A26 Positions of the porro

prisms inside the binoculars.

FIG. A27 The angle between the

porro prisms should be 90 .
BINOCULAR BASICS/13

OBJECTIVES
I

VI

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ENTRANCE

RAY

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I
I
I
I

I
I
III
I

FOCAL PLANE

<><>
I

OCULARS

FIG. A28 The light displacement shortens the distance between the objectives and
the focal plane-the
binoculars then allow a long focal length in a compact unit.

Each side of the binoculars has two porro prisms to

displace the light paths, Fig. A28. The horizontal line
in Fig. A28 indicates the approximate focal pointsthe focal points of the objective lenses. As you focus
the binoculars, you're moving the oculars closer to or
further from that horizontal line.

FACE OF SECOND

PORRO PRISM

A prism shelf on each side of the binoculars holds a

pair of porro prisms. The porro prisms sit in the bodies
of the binoculars. Fig. A29. One porro prism sits on
one side of the prism shelf; the other porro prism sits
on the opposite side of the prism shelf, Fig. A30.

FIG. A29 Positions of the porro prisms

inside the binoculars.
14/BINOCU LAR BASICS

FIG. A30 The two porro prisms in each

side of the binoculars sit on the prism
shelf-one porro prism on each side of
the prism shelf.

VARIATIONS IN THE BASIC DESIGN

Some special-purpose binoculars, such as military binoculars, place a reticle at the focal point in one side.
The reticle is a thin piece of glass with etched graduations as shown in Fig. A31.
As you're sighting through the binoculars, you also see
the reticle. You can then use the reticle for measuring
such values as distances or angles. The reticle is graduated and marked according to the purpose of the binoculars.
The reticle normally fits in one end of a tube, Fig. A32.
The tube mounts inside one binocular body, placing
the reticle at the focal point. The binoculars shown in
Fig. A30 don't use a reticle. But if they did, the reticle
tube would screw into the prism shelf-above the face
of the second porro prism, Fig. A30.
If you're repairing binoculars professionally, the reticle
presents a major cleaning problem. The reticle is magnified by the ocular. A tiny speck of dust on the reticle
then appears magnified-and
objectionable-when
you're looking through the binoculars. We1l cover cleaning techniques in the next section.
Zoom binoculars present another repair problem-the
two oculars must be timed to one another. The oculars
in zoom binoculars work like zoom lenses for cameras-as you zoom, the magnification of the oculars
changes.
If the oculars are not timed to one another, the two
images will be different sizes.Since zoom binoculars
area little more involved, we've given them their own
section at the end of this book-Section
D. The sections on disassembly and adjustments refer to binoculars that do not have zoom oculars. Please read through
and understand these sections before tackling zoom binoculars.
Fig. A33 shows another variation-opera
glasses. Opera glasses allow two-eye viewing with a compact unit.
Although very similar to standard binoculars, opera
glasses have one major difference-the interpupillary
distance is greater than the interobjective distance, Fig.
A34. The porro prisms displace the light to shorten the
required length of the opera glasses. But they don't increase the 3-dimensional effect.

Fig. A31 You see the reticle with your left

eye as you're looking through the
binoculars.

RETICLE

\\

TUBE

Fig. A32 The reticle is a thin piece of

glass etched with the graduations. A
tube holds the reticle at the objectivelens focal point inside the binocular
body.

OBJECTIVES

lYpically the focus knob moves the objective lenses

rather than the oculars. But one of the oculars is still
adjustable to conect for individual eyesight.
OCULARS 2

FOCUS
KNOB

FIG. A33 Typical opera glasses.

BINOCULAR BASICS/15

Notice in Fig. A34 that the porro prisms are displacing

the light in the opposite direction to standard binoculars. For the sake of compactness, opera glasses sacrifice some of the 3-dimensional binocular characteristics. But as far as repairs and adjustments are concerned, there's little difference between opera glasses
and binoculars.

INTEROBJECTIVE DISTANCE
OBJECTIVE
lENSES

~
PORRO
PRISMS

PORRO
PRISMS
T

i
I

However, there are some special-purpose binoculars you

should not attempt to repair-binoculars
that require
special tools and equipment beyond the budget of most
shops. For example, infrared binoculars include sophisticated circuits that convert infrared light to visible
light. Our eyes aren't sensitive to infrared light; the
wavelength is too long to stimulate the human eye. So,
if a subject is illuminated only with infrared, we can't
see that subject-unless
we look at the subject through
infrared binoculars.
In infrared binoculars, the objective lenses focus the
virtual image on a solid-state image pick-up-a device
that converts the image to an electronic signal. The electronic signal is then processed by circuitry inside the
binoculars and converted to a visible image-an image
that's magnified by the oculars. Subject seen through
the infrared binoculars appear green in color.

-'-'.

*&fl '
......

1- INTERPUPillARY

ADJUSTABLE
OCULAR

DISTANCE

- :

FIXED
OCULAR

FIG. A34 The light path in opera glasses.

ENTRANCE

FACE",

OTHER TYPES OF PRISMS

You've seen the function of the porro prisms. A pair of
porro prisms increases the interobjective distance over
the interpupillary distance and shortens the binocular
length. The prisms also erect the image.
A single prism can also be used as an erecting system.
Fig. A35 shows a typical erecting prism-a right-angle
prism with the top (the hatched area) cut off. Notice
that the top light ray becomes the bottom light ray after
passing through the erecting prism. Similarly, the bottom light ray becomes the top light ray.

FIG. A35 An erecting prism that erects

the image in one plane.

The prism shown in Fig. A35 erects in only one plane.

It can turn an upside down image right side up. Or it
can correct a reverted image from left to right. But a
prism using the roof-edge principle can erect the image in both planes. It can turn an inverted and reverted
image into an image that's right side up and correctly
oriented from left to right.
Fig. A36 shows the roof-edge arrangement. The roof
edge is formed between the two reflecting surfaces. If
the roof edge is 45 to the incident light, the reflected
image is both inverted and reverted.
Roof-angle (or roof-edge) prisms vary according .to the
numberthere's
of reflecting
surfaces.
But the
so~ewhere
the
prism
a roof edge
that erects
Image. AIII
roof-

16/BINOCULAR BASICS

ROOF EDGE

FIG. A36 A roof edge erects the image in

two planes.

angle pentaprism, for example, has five (penta) sides;

the roof-edge surfaces form two of the five sides.

OBJECTIVES

Some binoculars use roof-angle prisms for compactness. You can usually identify roof-prism binoculars
by the body shape, Fig. A37. If you disassemble the
binoculars, you probably won't see the individual
prisms-the
roof-angle prisms are normally self-contained in barrel assemblies that fit inside the binocular
tubes.
The theory behind the repair of roof-prism binoculars
is the same as for the more conventional porro-prism
binoculars. But there are many design differences. Roofprism binoculars are generally high-end, compact units.
You probably should not attempt repairs on roof-angle
binoculars until you're experienced in the repair of
porro-prism binoculars.

QUALITY DIFFERENCES IN
BINOCULARS
As you cover Section B, you'll see that there are very
few design variations in conventional porro-prism binoculars. But there are quality differences. The quality
differences account for the wide range of prices you'll
find-even though the binoculars may seem to be identical in design.
The top-quality binoculars lose very little light by unwanted reflection. Whenever light enters a lens, part of
that light is reflected from the front surface of the lens
(a secondary reflection), Fig. A38. The transmitted
light then passes through the lens and re-enters the air.
But part of the light striking the rear lens surface is
also reflected-it's
reflected into the lens. Light that's
reflected rather than transmitted is lost-it plays no
part in the image formation.

FOCUS KNOB
o~o~;;?;;?;?;;?;;?;;?o

OCULARS

FIG. A37 Binoculars using roof-angle

prisms generally have a sleek, compact
design.

Reducing the light loss by reflection results in a sharper,

brighter image. It's difficult to judge the quality difference unless you have two binoculars-a
high-quality
set and a low-quality set-to compare side by side.
To minimize light loss by reflection, the manufacturer
coats the lenses. The process involves evaporating metallic salts-such as magnesium fluoride-onto the lens
surfaces. The coating reduces the effects of secondary
reflection, allowing more of the light to be transmitted.
You can usually recognize a coated lens by the slight
color cast.
The quality of the optics also has a major bearing on
the price. Even the prisms vary in quality. The topquality binoculars use high-index prisms that again lose
very little light by unwanted reflections or unwanted
transmissions.

FIG. A38 Light path through a lens. The

dashed lines show the secondary
reflections.
BINOCULAR BASICS/17

SECTION B-DISASSEMBLY
REPAIR TECHNIQUES

&

Disassembly
procedures
remain fairl
consistent,
despite the variety
in binoculars.
But ythere's
one type
of binocular that you don't want to disassemble. Some
high-end binoculars are purged and then filled with
nitrogen gas. The nitrogen gas makes the binoculars
waterproof and fogproof.
Purged binoculars should be returned to the factory for
repair-only
the factory has the equipment needed to
purge and refill the binoculars. Look for the words
"Purged with ..." or similar on one of the cover plates.
In most situations, you'll be disassembling the binoculars to reach the adjustments. Or you may have to disassemble the binoculars to clean the internal optics. If
the binoculars have been dropped, optics may be broken. Plus the housing and other parts may be dented.
However, when parts are required, it may be preferable
to send the binoculars to the factory to repair. The factories supply parts, but not parts lists. Consequently,
you can only order parts by description-and that makes
it a problem to get the right part for the right model.

REAR PRISM COVERS

FIG. B1

slots in the housing or clip under a ledge.

You can find the addresses and phone numbers for binocular manufacturers in another Alii publication-the
Parts and Information Directory. But again, getting
the right part can be a problem.
In this section, we'll cover disassembly procedures and
precautions. Complete disassembly of binoculars does
disturb the adjustments. You should therefore disassemble the binoculars no further than necessary to make
the repair.

A standard set of screwdrivers may be all you need.

Most standard sets include both Phillips tips and slotted tips. A Phillips tip is slightly different than a crosspoint tip-the Phillips tip is longer with a more gradual
taper. But the small Phillips tip in a standard set is usually adequate for both types.
Jewelers' screwdrivers, Fig. B4, are at times needed to
loosen setscrews. Setscrews are small, headless screws

TOOLS FOR DISASSEMBLY

~

You won't need many tools for binocular repair. But

you do need a set of screwdrivers-both
for slotted
screws and for crosspoint (or Phillips) screws. The
prism covers, Fig. B 1, are
usually held by screws-and
those screws may be either
slotted or crosspoint, Fig. B2.
Also, the prism clamps that
hold the porro prisms in po- FIG. 82 A slotted
sition may be held by screws.
In other cases, the ends of the screw (left) and a
prism clamps simply slip into crosspoint screw.

18/DISASSEMBLY

&REPAIR

CROSSPOINT

<

REGULAR

REGULAR

BLADE

BLADE {TOP VIEW}

BLADE {SIDE VIEW}

Fig. 83 A crosspoint screwdriver blade

{top} compared with a regular
screwdriver blade {center and bottom}.

rings-you
needparts.
to loosen the setscrews before you
can remove the
that are frequently used to lock parts such as threaded
The jewelers' screwdriver has a swivel end, allowing
you to turn the screwdriver without changing your grip.
A set of jewelers' screwdrivers includes very small
tips-tips small enough for watch repair. You may never
need the smallest sizes. But you can get individual sizes.
The 1.0mm and 2mm blades should handle all the setscrews you'll encounter in binoculars.

e ~
~

FIG. 84 A jewelers' screwdriver may be

needed for headless setscrews (shown
at right).

Most binocular threads are right-hand (norma/ threads rather than reverse threads).
Turn most threaded parts counterclockwise to loosen, clockwise to tighten.

U
LOOSEN

fJ
TIGHTEN

You also need a spanner wrench, Fig. B5. Binoculars

use threaded retaining rings that usually have notches
for a spanner wrench. The tips of the spanner wrench
fit the notches. You can then turn the spanner wrench
to unscrew the retaining ring.
For retaining rings, you normally want the flat tips in
the spanner wrench, Fig. B5. But other parts have holes
rather than notches-the
holes require pointed tips in
the spanner wrench. A spanner wrench like the one
shown in Fig. B5 is available with both types of tips.

FIG. 85 A spanner wrench. This one has

flat tips, but the manufacturer also
supplies the wrench with pointed tips.

Most of the other parts in binoculars simply thread together-and

you can usually unscrew the parts with
finger pressure. In some cases, unscrewing the parts
may take more pressure than you can provide with your
fingers. For example, some binoculars are sealed for
moisture resistance. The threaded parts may then be
locked together with a locking agent.
A flexiclamp wrench, Fig. B6, can then be helpful. The
flexiclamp wrench is made of fiber, plastic, or a soft
metal such as aluminum. You can then clamp the
flexiclamp wrench onto the round part you want to
unscrew-the
soft material of the flexiclamp doesn't
scratch or mar the surface of the part. The handle of the
flexiclamp wrench gives you additional leverage to
unscrew the part.
Flexiclamp wrenches come in assorted sizes. A complete set offlexiclamp wrenches is expensive. But you
won't need all the sizes provided in a set. You can purchase the flexiclamp wrenches individually as you need
them. In most cases, the flexiclamp wrenches are sized
in inches or millimeters-for
example, a 1" flexiclamp

FIG. 86 Flexiclamp wrenches are made

from materials that won't scratch the
metal binocular surfaces.
wrench. The size refers to the internal diameter of the
opening, Fig. B6. Just measure the diameter of the part
you need to unscrew. And order the flexic1amp wrench
that has the closest diameter-just
so that diameter is
larger than the patt you want to unscrew.
It's important that the flexiclamp wrench is very close
in size to the part you're removing. If the flexiclamp
wrench is too large, you have to squeeze the legs too
far in clamping the part-that may break the wrench.

DISASSEM8L Y & REPAIRl19

Similarly, if the tlexiclamp wrench is too small, you

have to spread the legs to fit the opening over the part.
Again, you may break the wrench.
A strap wrench, available from hardware stores, does
the same job--but one wrench is all you need. Another
tool that's useful for unscrewing tight parts is the softjaw plier, Fig. B7. The soft-jaw plier has soft pads attached to the insides of the jaws. You can then grip the
part you're unscrewing without scratching that part.
You may also want a sliding vernier caliper, Fig. B8.
Quite often you'll want to maintain the original adjustment on the binoculars. By making a precise measurement before disassembly, you'll have a reassembly reference. You can then reset the adjustment to the original position.

FIG. B7 Soft-jaw pliers have cushioning

pads inside the jaws.

CLEANING BINOCULAR OPTICS

You may be disassembling the binoculars just to clean
the optics. Moisture damage often leaves a fog or a
film on the internal optical surfaces.
If the binoculars have had a long exposure to humidity,
there may be fungus damage to the optics. Fungus damage looks like spider webs on the optical surface. In
time, the fungus will damage the coating on the optics.
Cleaning the external optics may require a lens-cleaning solution. The external optics tend to get very dirty
and covered with fingerprints. You can purchase commerciallens-cleaning solutions from photo dealers. Or
you can use standard rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol. Many
technicians prefer commercial glass cleaners such as
Windex.

FIG. B8 The sliding vernier caliper

allows precise measurements.

You can also obtain lens tissues as a photo dealer. Some

technicians prefer to use KimwipesTM.Others prefer the
special lens-cleaning cloths such as Photo-Clear. The
lens-cleaning cloth has such a tight weave that it will
pick up dirt and fingerprints-with
or without a lenscleaning solution.

FIG. B9 Lens-

FIG. B10The hand

If you're using a lens-cleaning solution or Windex TM,

blower.
moisten the KimwipeTMor the lens-cleaning cloth. Your cleaning motion.
fingers should not touch the moistened area-if they
do, finger oils will be transferred to the optical surface.
ing any residue left by the cleaning solution.
Now start at the center of the lens. And work toward
the outer edge of the lens using a spiral motion, Fig. With internal optics, you may not need the lens-cleanB9. Working from the center to the outside moves the ing solution. No fingerprints can get to the internal
dirt to the edge of the lens where it can be removed.
optics-but dust may be able to reach the surfaces. Use
a hand blower, Fig. B 10, to blow off dust particles. If
Next fog the lens with your breath. Using a dry tissue you do have to use a lens-cleaning solution, you can
or cloth, again work from the center of the lens to the follow the same procedures as you do with the external
outer edge. As you remove the fog, you're also remov- optics.

20/DISASSEMBL Y & REPAIR

If the binocular side has a reticle, try to restrict your

cleaning to blowing off dust particles. Any dust, scratch,
or residue on the reticle is greatly magnified by the
ocular. And try to avoid removing the reticle from the
cylinder that mounts the reticle. If you remove the
reticle, you disturb the rotational position. It's then necessary to readjust the reticle.
Flat optical surfaces-such
as the porro prisms-require a slight! y different cleaning procedure. Rather than
a spiral motion, use horizontal strokes, Fig. B II-both
to apply lens-cleaning solution and to remove the residue.
But there's a bigger problem in cleaning porro prismsthat's in reaching the surfaces. If you remove the porro
prisms, you can fairly easily clean the surfaces. However, removing the porro prisms disturbs critical adjustments-both
the collimation and the rotational adjustment for image tilt. These adjustments are described
in Section C-Adjusting Binoculars.
If possible, restrict your cleaning to the surfaces you
can reach. Openings in the prism shelf allow you to
reach the entrance and exit surfaces of each prism pair.
You can then clean these surfaces without removing
the porro prisms. But cleaning the surfaces that transfer light from one porro prism to the other do require
removing the porro prisms-and disturbing the adjustments.

ning of this publication-Vivitar

for the tools you'll need).

is one of the sources

The grease on the threads of the adjustable ocular may

be a very light grease. If you find that the adjustable
ocular turns too freely because of wear in the threads,
you may be able to correct the problem by using a
heavier grease.
But some binoculars use plastic-rather
than metalocular housings. If the threads are plastic, be sure to
use a plastic-compatible grease such as a losoid grease.
A grease that isn't compatible with plastic may in time
damage the threads.
To lubricate the threads of the adjustable ocular, apply
the grease around 1/3-1/2 of the way up the threads,
Fig. B12--either to the threads of the ocular or to the
threads in the ocular arm. Then screw in the ocular.
Screwing the ocular in and out applies the grease to the
remaining threads.
Excess grease will be pushed out at the ends of the
threads. Use a KimwipeTM to wipe off the grease.

CLEANING METAL PARTS

The metal parts that most frequently need cleaning are
the threads of the adjustable ocular-and the threads in
the ocular arm that receive the adjustable ocular. It's
often necessary to clean the old grease from the threads.
Then relubricate the threads.
Isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol works well as a cleaning
solution-it's
safe both for metal and for plastic. To
scrub the threads, you can use an old toothbrush.
After you scrub the threads, use tissues such as
to pick up the alcohol. Dried, caked-on
Kimwipes
grease can be difficult to remove. You may have to scrub
and dry the threads several times.

FIG. B11 Cleaning motion for the bottom

of the porro prism.

LUBRICATION
Two places in the binoculars always have grease lubrication-the hinge and the threads of the adjustable ocular. The hinge grease is a heavy, sticky grease. Binocular manufacturers use a special binocular grease. In
some cases, the manufacturers will supply binocular
grease to repair shops. Or you can use the focus-mount
greases available from Vivitar (address at the begin-

GREASE
THESE
THREADS

FIG. B12 Apply grease around 1/3 to 1/2

the way from the ends of the threads.
DISASSEMBLY & REPAIRl21

You can check the feel as you turn the adjustable ocular. If the adjustable ocular feels too tight, you may
have to remove some of the grease-or apply a lighter
grease. If the adjustable ocular turns too freely, you
may have to add grease-or apply a heavier grease.

DECORATOR

CAP

If the binoculars have a focus knob, the parts that move

the oculars also use grease. The focus knob threads into
the hinge pin. And the ocular shaft that carries the ocular arms threads into the focus knob. Use grease on the
threads of both parts. If the binoculars use a rocker
arm, lubricate the cam slot of the rocker arm with grease.
You'll see all these lubrication points during the disassembly that follows. But in general, use the heavy binocular grease on any sliding surfaces-surfaces that bear
against one another when you change the distance between the binocular sides. Also lubricate the threads of
threaded parts that turn during some operation-for
example, the threads of the adjustable ocular and the
threads of the focus knob.
REAR PRISM COVERS

DISASSEMBLY TECHNIQUES
Frequently you want to disassemble the binoculars just
far enough to reach the adjustments-disassembl y steps
to reach the adjustments are described in the section
Adjusting Binoculars. You may want to skip now to
Adjusting Binoculars and go through just the disassembly you need.
Or, if you have a pair of junk binoculars, you may want
to go through a complete disassembly-just
for familiarity. If the binoculars are repairable, they'll also give
you practice in setting the adjustments.
But if you're working on repairable binoculars, there
are some rules to follow that will make adjustment
easier. Here's one of the most important rules-disassemble only one side of the binoculars at a time.
Reassemble that side before you disassemble the other
side.
Why? Whenever you disassemble one side, there's a
risk of disturbing adjustments. But you still have the
other side-the side you haven't disassembled-to
use
as your standard.
Once you've adjusted the reassembled side, you can
disassemble the other side. You can now use the side
you've already adjusted as your standard.
1\vo of the adjustments you can disturb are collimation and rotational error. If the binoculars are out of
collimation, the images formed by the two sides won't
coincide. As a result, you may see two images. Rotational error refers to image tilt. One or both of the im-

221DISASSEMBL Y & REPAIR

FIG. B13 Binoculars after unscrewing

objective-lens tube.
ages may appear to be tilted. The section Adjusting Binoculars describes these two adjustments in detail. But
as we go through disassembly, we'll note which steps
may disturb adjustments-and
what you can often do
to save the adjustments.
If you take apart the oculars, there's another adjustment you can disturb-the ocular focus. We'll describe
the procedures for adjusting the oculars in this section.
Objective-lens parts:
Many major parts of the binoculars simply screw into
place. In most binoculars, the decorator caps, Fig. B 13,
unscrew. Also, the complete objective-lens tube screws
into the binocular body.
lhreaded rings and tubes can present a slight problem
on reassembly. The threads of the decorator cap and of
the objective-lens tube are fine (as opposed to coarse).
If you miss the proper starting thread, you can crossthread the parts. A cross-threaded objective-lens tube,
for example, will sit at a slight angle to the binocular
body.
One technique you can use to find the proper starting
thread is to first turn the part in the opposite direction.
To screw in the objective-lens tube, you turn the objective-lens tube in a clockwise direction (as seen from
the front). But if you have trouble finding the starting
thread, first turn the objective-lens tube in a counter-

clockwise direction-the direction you used for removing the objective-lens tube.

ECCENTRIC

RING

When you reach the starting thread, you'll hear or feel

a slight" click." Then, when you hear the "click," turn
the objective-lens tube in a clockwise direction.
To remove the objective lens, unscrew the objective
cap. A retaining ring, Fig. B 14, holds the objective lens
in place. But be careful-removing
the objective lens
may disturb the adjustment for collimation. Do not
remove the retaining ring unless you want to collimate
the binoculars.
If you're disassembling for practice-or
if it's really
necessary to remove the objective lens-use your spanner wrench to unscrew the retaining ring. You can now
lift out the objective-lens cell with the objective lens.
There may be a loose eccentric ring around the front
shoulder of the objective-lens cell, Fig. B 14. If so,
you've just lost the collimation adjustment-the eccentric shifts the position of the objective lens to align its
optical axis (optical center).

RETAINING

FIG. 814 You can see the eccentric ring

under the retaining ring. When you see
an eccentric ring, you know that you
can't remove the objective lens without
disturbing the collimation.

You don't have to take out the objective lens to remove

the objective-lens tube, Fig. B 13. In most binoculars,
the objective-lens tube screws into the binocular body.
But beware-removing
and replacing the objectivelens tube may also disturb collimation.
Why? Remember that the eccentric ring around the
objective lens shifts the lateral position of the objective lens. Rotating the objective-lens tube also shifts
the objective lens. If you unscrew the objective-lens
tube, then, you want to return the objective-lens tube
to the original position. You can change that original
position by screwing in the objective-lens tube more
tightly-or by not screwing in the objective-lens tube
to the original tightness. How much torque you apply
when screwing in the objective-lens tube then affects
the collimation.
You can normally maintain the original position by
marking the objective-lens tube. Before you unscrew
the objective-lens tube, place a pair of reference marks,
Fig. B 15-one on the objective-lens tube and one on
the binocular body or cover plate. If you can reach a
place on the binoculars that can't normally be seen, you
can use scribe lines-scratches
in the metal placed by
a sharp tool. You may be able to make your scribe lines
sufficiently small that they can't be easily detected.
Or you can use a soft pencil to make your reference
marks. You can wipe off the pencil marks after you
complete the reassembly.
Now hold the binoculars by the body. Unscrew the

RING

OBJECTIVELENS TUBE

REFERENCE
MARKS

_/

IT

FIG. B15 Before disassembly, mark the

rotational position of the objective-lens
tube. Your reference marks tell you how
much torque to apply when you screw in
the objective-lens tube.
DISASSEMBL V & REPAIRl23

complete objective-lens tube, Fig. B 13. On reassembly, screw in the objective-lens tube until it comes
against the binocular body. Then check the alignment
of your reference marks.
If the reference mark on the objective-lens tube hasn't
reached the fixed reference mark, add some torqueturn in the objective-lens tube more tightly. Whatifthe
reference mark on the objective-lens tube has moved
slightly past the fixed reference mark? Back out the
objective-lens tube until your reference marks align.
In many binoculars, the objective-lens tubes are not
separate parts-the
body and the objective-lens tube
may be one assembly, Fig. B 16. In that case, there's no
prism cover on the objective-lens side. You reach the
porro prisms by removing the prism cover on the ocular side-a procedure we'll describe in a moment.

Removing the prism covers:

In Section A, you saw that the porro prisms usually
seat in prism shelves that are built into the binocular
bodies. To reach the front porro prism, it's necessary to
remove the front prism cover, Fig. B 13. Reach the rear
porro prism by removing the rear prism cover, Fig. B 13.
You can reach the front prism cover by unscrewing the
objective-lens tube as previously described. If there isn't
a front prism cover, the objective-lens tube and the body

OCULAR TUBES

FIG. B16 The objective-lens tube and the

body on each side of these binoculars is
one piece. It's then necessary to remove
the oculars and the rear prism covers to
reach the porro prisms.
are one piece, Fig. B16. The prism shelves are then
separate parts. You can remove the complete prism shelf
together with both porro prisms-first
take off the rear
prism cover, Fig. B16.
If both oculars are adjustable, as in Fig. B 16, the ocular tubes normally screw into the binocular bodies. Just
unscrew the ocular tubes, Fig. B 17. You can then remove the rear prism covers after taking out their retaining screws, Fig. B 18.

COVER-PLATE
SCREWS

----------REAR PRISM
COVER

OCULAR TUBE

FIG. B17 Here the complete ocular

assembly unscrews. The ocular tube
screws into the binocular body.
24/DISASSEMBL Y & REPAIR

FIG. B18 Back view, rear prism cover

plate after unscrewing left-side ocular.

However, if the binoculars have a focus knob or rocker

arm, you can usually remove the complete ocular assembly-both oculars as a unit. The procedure depends
on the design. And, in some cases, you have a choice
of procedures.

Removing the ocular assembly from a rocker-arm

design:
If the binoculars use a rocker arm, Fig. B 19, there are a
couple of disassembly methods you can use. You can
normally remove the ocular assembly together with the
hinge pin-that's probably the easier method.
First remove the decorator plate, Fig. B 19. The decorator plate normally snaps into place. Spring up one
end of the decorator plate to disengage the snaps.
You can now reach the screw on the hinge pin, Fig.
B20. The hinge-pin screw passes through the carn slot
of the rocker arm.
Remove the hinge-pin screw, Fig. B20. Then lift out
the ocular assembly and the hinge pin toward the ocular end of the binoculars. Typically, the binocular sides
won't separate. Separating the binocular sides requires
removing the threaded rings at the ends of the hingepin bearings.

FIG. 819

HINGE-PIN

SCREW

On reassembly, slide the hinge pin into place with the

ocular assembly. Move the rocker arm until you can
see the hinge-pin screw hole through the rocker-arm
slot. Then replace the hinge-pin screw, Fig. B20.
Alternately, you can remove the ocular arms from the
hinge pin. Take of the IPD (interpupillary distance)
scale-it's held by one screw, Fig. B21. You can then
see the rear hinge-pin screw-the screw that holds the
ocular arms to the rear end of the hinge pin. Remove
the screw and lift out the ocular arms with the oculars
as an assembly.

I
I
I

7<(8j

IPDSCALE

FIG. 820 Rocker arm with decorator

plate removed.

a~
~

FIG. 821 Adjusting the interpupillarydistance scale. Match the scale reading
to distance D.

On reassembly, adjust the position of the IPD scale,

Fig. B21. The scale reading must match the distance
between the centers of the eyelenses--distance
D in
Fig. B21. Spread the binocular sides until distance D
equals one of the calibrations on the IPD scale (60mm
or 70mm in Fig. B21). Then loosen the screw holding
the IPD scale. Rotate the IPD scale until the proper
calibration aligns with the index. Hold the IPD scale in
position as you retighten the screw.

DISASSEM8L Y & REPAIRl25

Removing the ocular assembly from a focusknob

design:
If the binoculars use a focus knob, Fig. B 22, you again
have a choice of disassembly techniques. Each has its
own advantages and drawbacks.
One method is to remove the ocular assembly together
with the hinge pin. You'll then find that the binocular
sides will separate. Although you can keep the binocular sides together, there's another drawback:

Removing the hinge pin often disturbs the adjustment on the hinge pressure-how much pressure is
required to spread the sides further apart or to move
the sides closer together.
You can usually see the adjustment after unscrewing
the decorator screw at the front of the hinge pin, Fig ...
B22 and Fig. B23. Use the pointed tips in your spanner wrench to unscrew the decorator screw. Some binoculars use a decorator cap that has a pressure fit. Or
there may be a decorator disc that's held by one screw.

FIG. B22 Binoculars With a focus knob.

Removing the decorator screw uncovers the adjusting

screw, Fig. B24. The adjusting screw threads into the
end of the hinge pin. A locking setscrew, Fig. B24,
often holds the adjusted position of the adjusting screw.
After loosening the setscrew, you can turn the adjusting screw. Turning in (tightening) the adjusting screw
increases the hinge pressure-it then takes more force
to change the interpupillary distance. Turning out (loosening) the adjusting screw decreases the hinge pressure.
You must remove the adjusting screw to take out the
hinge pin-and that loses the pressure adjustment. If
you're working on your own binoculars, there's no problem-you can adjust the pressure to suit your own preferences. But if you're working on a customer's binoculars, changing the hinge pressure may result in an unhappy customer.

FIG. B23 Front view of the binoculars.

The customer will quickly notice any difference in the

hinge pressure-especially
if the customer uses the
binoculars frequently. The customer may then think that
you haven't repaired the binoculars properly-the binoculars "feel" different.
Ideally, you should adjust the hinge to the same pressure as it originally had-just
to keep the customer
satisfied. But the customer is less likely to be unhappy
if the hinge pressure is slightly tighter than before (rather
than slightly looser than before). If the binocular sides
move more freely, the customer may think you've failed
to tighten something sufficiently. But if the adjustment
feels tighter, the customer may feel that you've done a
thorough repair-you've
"tightened up" the sides.

26/DISASSEM8L

Y & REPAIR

FIG. 824 Front of the binoculars,

decorator screw removed.

To remove the oculars with the hinge pin, loosen the

locking setscrew (if used), Fig. B24. Use a large screwdriver or the flat tips in your spanner wrench to unscrew the adjusting screw. Now slide out the complete
ocular assembly-together
with the hinge pin-to the
back of the binoculars, Fig. B25.
As mentioned earlier, it's now possible to separate the
binocular sides. If you do separate the binocular sides,
watch for spacer washers-the washers, when used, fit
between the binocular sides at the hinge positions. Like
the adjusting screw, the washers are used to adjust the
hinge pressure.
The hinge pin and the hinge-bearing surfaces on the
binocular bodies should be lubricated with the heavy
binocular grease. Because of the grease, the washers
will stick to just about anything. Make sure the washers are in position before you reassemble the binocular
sides.
With the ocular assembly removed, you can unscrew
either of the ocular tubes, Fig. B25-the ocular tubes
thread into the binocular bodies. It's usually necessary
to remove the ocular tubes to take off the rear prism
covers.

FIG. B25 Removing the ocular

assembly.

You can now remove the rear prism covers. The rear
prism covers may be held by screws. Or you may find
that only the ocular tubes hold the rear prism covers.
Some binoculars hide the screws holding the rear prism
covers. If the binoculars have a rubberlike covering,
you may have to peel aside the covering to reach the
screws. You may find that you can then remove the rear
prism covers without unscrewing the ocular tubes.
Earlier we mentioned that you can also remove the
ocular assembly without taking out the hinge pin. If
you don't unscrew the adjusting screw, Fig. B24, you
won't disturb the hinge-pressure adjustment. One
method is to partially disassemble the focus knob. Before looking at this technique, you should understand
the focus-knob design.
Fig. B26 shows the hinge pin with the ocular assembly
removed. The ocular arms fit over the shoulder on the
ocular shaft.

HINGE PIN

FOCUS KNOB

OCULAR SHAFT
SHOULDER FOR
OCULAR ARMS

Both the focus knob and the ocular shaft are threaded.
The focus knob screws into the end of the hinge pin.
And the ocular shaft screws into the focus knob.
If the ocular arms are removed, the ocular shaft turns
with the focus knob. The focus-knob assembly screws
in or out along the hinge-pin threads. The ocular shaft
simply turns with the focus knob.

FIG. 826 Hinge pin and focus-knob

assembly.

DISASSEMBLY & REPAIRl27

But, with the binoculars assembled, the ocular arm can't

rotate. The ocular arms prevent the ocular shaft from
turning with the focus knob. Since the ocular shaft can't
rotate, it's forced to move in or out along the threads.
The ocular shaft then carries the ocular arms in or out.
The oculars move closer to the binocular bodies or further from the binocular bodies.

HINGE PIN

In Fig. B27, we've unscrewed the focus-knob assembly from the hinge pin. Here you can see the threads on
the focus-knob assembly and on the ocular shaft.
You can separate the ocular shaft from the focus-knob
assembly after removing the stop screw, Fig. B27the stop screw prevents the ocular shaft from unscrewing from the focus knob. Then unscrew the ocular shaft,
Fig. B28. The ocular shaft has a left-hand (or reverse)
thread. If you're looking at the front of the focus knob,
turn the ocular shaft in a clockwise direction. The ocular shaft then unscrews from the focus knob. Thm the
ocular shaft in a counterclockwise direction to screw it
into the focus knob.
By unscrewing the ocular shaft, you can leave the hinge
pin and focus knob in the binoculars. Only the ocular
shaft comes out with the ocular assembly. But there's
one timing point you can lose-the position of the focus knob. Since the focus knob is threaded, it moves in
and out as you focus the binoculars. Starting the focus
knob at the wrong position may limit the movement of
the ocular assembly.
Let's say, for example, that the focus knob has been
started too far in-too close to the binocular bodies.
Then, as you turn the focus knob to move in the oculars,
the focus knob bottoms-it
comes against the top of
the hinge pin before the oculars have moved in fully.
And, when you move the oculars fully out, Fig. B29,
the oculars still aren't as far away from the binoculars
as they should be. The focus knob hasn't turned out far
enough.
You then want to start the focus knob at its original
position. One way is measure the distance between
the underside of the focus knob and the topofthe hinge
pin when the threads of the ocular shaft disengage.
Here's the procedure:

STOP SCREW AT END

OF OCULAR SHAFT

FOCUSKNOB
ASSEMBLY

----OCULAR
SHAFT

FIG. 827 Hinge pin separated from focus

knob.

V--

STOP SCREW

FOCUS KNOB

OCULAR SHAFT

Remove the decorator screw or cap at the objective end

of the hinge pin. You can now reach the stop screw at
the end of the ocular shaft, Fig. B27, through the hole
in the adjusting screw, Fig. B30.
Inselt a long, thin screwdriver through the adjustingscrew hole, Fig. B30. Then unscrew the stop screw.
You probably won't be able to completely remove the

28/DISASSEM8L Y & REPAIR

FIG. 828 Ocular shaft separated from

focus knob.

stop screw-the
ably too small.

hole in the adjusting screw is prob-

FOCUS KNOB

Now turn the focus knob to move the ocular arms away
from the binocular bodies-turn the focus knob counterclockwise as seen from the ocular end. The ocular
shaft unscrews from the focus knob. Stop turning the
focus knob the moment the ocular shaft disengages,
Fig. B31.
You can then measure the distance between the underside of the focus knob and the top of the hinge, Fig.
B3l. The distance marks the point at which the ocularshaft threads disengage from the focus-knob threads.
As you're working on the binoculars, the focus knob
may turn. But you can return the focus knob to the
starting position by setting the same space gap.
On reassembly, set the focus knob to the measured distance. Then slide the ocular assembly into place. You
may have to shift the oculars slightly until each ocular
fits over its ocular tube.

FIG. 829
HOLE IN ADJUSTING

SCREW

Next turn the focus knob clockwise as seen from the

ocular end. The focus knob draws in the ocular shaft.
Continue turning the focus knob until the oculars move
in as far as they will go. Then work through the adjusting-screw hole to tighten the ocular-shaft stop screw.
Finally, there's one more technique you can use-you
can remove the ocular arms from the ocular end of the
hinge pin (from the ocular shaft). Thrn the focus knob
to move the oculars as close as they will go to the binocular bodies; the ocular shaft then extends a minimum
distance from the focus knob.

FIG. 830
OCULAR SHAFT

MEASURE

DISTANCE

Again you'll probably have to disturb the adjustment

on the IPD scale. After removing the IPD scale or decorator ring, the ocular arms may lift off the ocular shaft.
Or you may have to remove a screw holding the ocular
arms.
Avoid turning the ocular shaft or the focus knob with
the ocular assembly removed. If the ocular shaft is at a
different position with respect to the focus knob-or if
the focus knob has turned-you
may not get the full
focus movement.
Which of the three procedures you use depends partially on individual preferences-and
partially on the
particular binoculars. Removing the hinge pin together
with the ocular assembly sounds easier. But the procedure disturbs the hinge-pressure adjustment. Also, the
adjusting screw, Fig. B30, can be difficult to removenot only is the adjusting screw very tight, its threads
may be sealed with a locking agent.

OCULAR

ARMS

FIG. 831
DISASSEMBLY & REPAIRl29

FACE OF
OBJECTIVE-SIDE
PORRO PRISM

FIG. B32 Binocular side with the rear prism cover removed.With the hinge pin
removed, you can separate the binoculars into two halves. Here you can see the
porro prism on the ocular side of a binocular half. In this design, one end of the
prism clamp is held by a screw. The other end slides under a lip in the binocular
body.
Removing the ocular arms from the rear end of the hinge
pin may also lose adjustments-the
position of the focus knob and the position of the ocular shaft with respect to the focus knob. If either part is out of position,
you won't have the full range of movement in the ocular assembly. Unscrewing the ocular shaft from the focus knob may then be the safest and easiest techniqueas long as you note the focus-knob position.

Porro prisms, prism shelves:

Once you've removed the prism covers, you can reach
the porro prisms. Removing individual porro prisms
or a complete prism shelf can disturb adjustments. Remember the disassembly precaution-disassemble
only
one side of the binoculars at a time. You then have a
standard for adjustments on the side you've disassembled. As we go through the disassembly, we'll point
out methods you can often use to retain the adjustments.
After you remove the front prism cover, you can reach

30/DISASSEMBL Y & REPAIR

the porro prism on the objective side. Remove the rear

prism cover to reach the porro prism on the ocular side.
A clamp-and usually dabs of cement or wax-hold
each porro prism in the adjusted position, Fig. B32.
Leave the pon'o prism in place if you don't want to
disturb the adjustment-the
adjustment affects both
collimation and image tilt.
Note that you can reach one face of the porro prism on
the other side of the prism shelf, Fig. B32. You can
then clean the exposed prism face without further disassembly. And, after removing the front prism cover,
you can reach one face of the other porro prism. However, to clean the unexposed faces, you'll have to remove the porro prisms.
First note the position of the porro prism. Each porro
prism fits into a recess in the prism shelf, Fig. B32.
The recess is slightly larger than the porro prism. If
the porro prisms weren't intended for adjustment, they

may fit snugly in the recesses. But if the binoculars

were designed for porro-prism collimation, the recesses
may be quite a bit larger than the porro prisms.

CEMENT

PRISM CLAMP

You can then slide the porro prism in one direction or

the other. However, you'll probably find that the porro
prism is against one end of the recess. For example, in
Fig. B33 (top) the porro prism is against the left-hand
end of the recess. Make a note or sketch to indicate the
adjusted position. Then, on reassembly, move the porro
prism against the same end of the recess.
The dabs of cement used to hold the porro prism in the
adjusted position, Fig. B33, can also provide reassembly help. You can cut the dabs to free the porro prismleave part of the cement on the prism and part on the
prism shelf. On reassembly, align the dabs of cement.
Quite often you'll find that impact has broken loose the
cement. The porro prisms may then have shifted, throwing off the adjustments. Again you can use the old cement as a guide as to the original prism adjustments.
Match up the cement dabs to reposition the prisms. It's
possible that the entire dab of cement remains on the
prism shelf. But you may still be able to see the shape
of the cement dab on the side of the porro prism. Just
move the porro prism until the imprint of the cement
matches the position of the cement dab.

EXPOSED FACE OF
OCULAR-SIDE PORRO PRISM

To take out the porro prism, remove the prism clamp,

Fig. B32 and Fig. B33. The prism clamp may be held
by screws. Or the ends of the prism clamp may simply
fit into slots in the body. The prism clamp then holds
itself in place because of its spring action-the ends of
the prism clamp spring upward. In some designs, the
prism clamp simply clips over the edges of the prism
shelf.
If the prism clamp fits into body slots, free one endpush down the end of the prism clamp to overcome the
spring action. Then turn the prism clamp as needed
until you can free the end from the slot. You can now
free the other end and lift out the prism clamp.
You may now be able to lift out the pon'o prism. Or
you may have to cut or pull loose the dabs of cement.

Disassembly and adjustment of the oculars:

There are many variations in the disassembly of the
oculars, depending on the particular binoculars. Normally you can disassemble the fixed ocular without
disturbing any adjustments (although, as we'll later
describe, there are exceptions). Taking apart the adjustable ocular, however, does disturb an adjustmentthe diopter adjustment.
Yet it's usually the adjustable ocular you'll have to dis-

FIG. B33 The prism shelf with the porro

prism in place (top) and removed
(bottom).

assemble. Normally the problem is the grease on the

adjustable-ocular threads. With age, the grease dries.
The dried grease can cause the ocular threads to seize.
You may then find that you can't even turn the adjustable ocular to set the diopter adjustment.
Or you may find that the adjustable ocular turns too
freely. The problem may then be wear in the threads.
As mentioned earlier, you can often correct the problem by applying a heavier grease.
Setscrews (typically three setscrews, but there may only
be one) often hold the control knob to the adjustable

DISASSEMBLY

& REPAIRl31

ocular, Fig. B34. You may be able to see the slotted

ends of the setscrews as in Fig. B34; or you may have
to work through holes in the control knob to reach the
setscrews, Fig. B35.
As you turn the control knob, the adjustable ocular
screws in or out. You can loosen the setscrews to change
the position of the adjustable ocular with respect to the
control knob.
To remove the control knob, you may have to first remove the rubber eyecup, Fig. B34. The eyecup may
lift off. Or it may unscrew. Then loosen the setscrews,
Fig. B34, and lift off the control knob, Fig. B35. You
can now turn the adjustable ocular in or out, changing
the position-and
the adjustment.

EYECUP

SETSCREW

FIG.834
Three setscrews normally hold
the control knob to the adjustable ocular.
After loosening the setscrews, you can
adjust the position of the control knob.

On reassembly, first turn the adjustable ocular to the 0diopter position. Then seat the control knob with its 0
calibration aligned with the index. Finally, tighten the
setscrews.
To find the O-diopter position,
ocular as a reference. The fixed
o diopter (no correction). Look
lar with either eye. Adjust the
target appears sharp.

you can use the fixed

ocular is already set to
through the fixed ocufocus knob until your

Now use the same eye to look through the adjustable

ocular. Thrn the adjustable ocular until the same target
appears sharp; the adjustable ocular is now set to 0 diopter. Seat the control knob with its 0 calibration aligned
with the index-make
sure you don't turn the adjustable ocular as you're seating the control knob. TIghten
the setscrews to hold the control knob to the adjustable
ocular.
With some binoculars, as mentioned earlier, both
oculars are adjustable. Here it's even more desirable to
disassemble only one ocular at a time. Let's say you've
disassembled the right ocular. Use the left ocular as
your standard to set the position of the right ocular.

HOLE FOR
SETSCREW

CONTROL

KNOB

ADJUSTABLE

OCULAR

OCULAR ARM

FIG. 835 The control knob removed from

the adjustable ocular.

First look through the left ocular with either eye. Thm
the control knob until your target appears sharp. Then
note the scale reading on the ocular. For example, say
the target appears sharpest with the ocular set to +I
diopter.
Next look through the right ocular-use the same eye
and the same target. Thm the right ocular until the target appears sharp. Now seat the right-ocular control
knob to match the setting of the left ocular. In our example, the target appears sharpest with the left ocular
set to + 1. Seat the right -ocular control knob at the +1
position and tighten the setscrews.

321DISASSEM8L Y & REPAIR

If you can't use one ocular as your standard, you may

have to use another pair of binoculars to determine your
own correction. For example, say you're working on
binoculars in which both oculars are adjustable. And
the adjustment has been lost on both oculars.
Use another pair of binoculars to determine your own
diopter correction for one eye. Then set each of the
oculars in the binoculars you're repairing to the same
correction. The scale calibrations on another pair of
binoculars may not be exactly the same. But they'll be
close.

The knob for the fixed ocular may simply lift off after
you loosen the setscrews. If there are no setscrews, the
knob for the fixed ocul ar may be threaded-in that case,
unscrew the knob.

HOLE FOR
SETSCREW

Once you've removed the knob, you may be able to

simply lift out the fixed ocular. The fixed ocular normally slides into the sleeve on the ocular arm.
In some cases, it's necessary to unscrew the fixed ocular. A setscrew may then lock the fixed ocular in position, Fig. B36. Here there's an adjustment on the fixed
ocular. Screw in the fixed ocular to the O-diopter position and then tighten the setscrew.
If the fixed ocular has an adjustment, use the adjustable diopter to set the position. Turn the adjustable diopter to the O-diopter setting. Then use the technique
described earlier to set the fixed ocular to 0 diopter.
The adjustable ocular may be more difficult to remove.
Once you remove the control knob, you will normally
find that you can't completely unscrew the adjustable
ocular-you
can only turn the adjustable ocular to its
maximum extended position.

FIXED OCULAR

LOCKING
SETSCREW

FIG. 836 A fixed ocular that can be

adjusted for O-diopter correction.

It's then necessary to remove the complete ocular assembly using one of the techniques described earlier.
With the ocular assembly removed, you can turn the
adjustable ocular in a clockwise direction (as seen from
the back of the binoculars)-the
threads move the adjustable ocular toward the front of the ocular assembly.
Keep turning in the adjustable ocular until you can
unscrew it from the ocular arm.
Or you may find that the threads for the adjustable ocular are on a separate ring-the adjustable ocular slides
into the threaded ring. You may then be able to lift out
the ocular toward the back of the binoculars. But you'll
probably have to remove the ocular assembly to take
out the threaded ring. Turn in the threaded ring until
you can remove it from the front of the ocular assembly-just as you would remove a threaded ocular.
With some designs, it's necessary to remove the adjustable ocular before you can remove the control knob.
Fig. B39 shows an example. The stop on the ocular
arm limits how far you can turn the control knob. The
stop also prevents you from lifting off the control knob
until you unscrew the adjustable ocular.
First remove the ocular assembly and lift off the rubber
eyecup. Loosen the setscrews around the outer circumference of the control knob. Now unscrew the adjustable ocular from the front of the ocular assembly, Fig.
B37 (turn the adjustable ocular clockwise as seen from
the eyelens side).

FIG. 837
DISASSEM8L Y & REPAIRl33

You can now remove the control knob--tilt the control

knob slightly to clear the stop on the ocular arm, Fig.
B37. With the adjustable ocular in place, you can't tilt
the control knob enough to clear the stop.

OCULAR

HOUSING

On reassembly, first seat the control knob. Then screw

in the adjustable ocular from the front of the ocular
arm, Fig. B37. Temporarily tighten the setscrew holding the control knob to the adjustable ocular. Or, if there
are three setscrews holding the control knob, tighten
just one. Replace the ocular assembly.
You can now adjust the adjustable ocular. Thrn the control knob to set the adjustable ocular to 0 diopter-use
the fixed ocular as a reference. Then loosen the setscrew you tightened. Without turning the adjustable
ocular, turn the control knob until its 0 calibration aligns
with the index. TIghten the setscrews.
EYELENS

VARIATIONS IN OCULARS
We mentioned that you'll encounter several variations
in ocular disassembly. But there are a couple of major
variations in ocular design we should mention herethe particular designs are covered in the following sections.
The oculars are considerably different-and more complex-in zoom binoculars. As mentioned earlier, the
oculars in zoom binoculars use movable elements to
change the magnification. Section D covers the zoom
oculars.
You'll also encounter some binoculars that provide the
collimation adjustment on the oculars rather than on
the objectives. The collimation adjustment then shifts
the eyelens-the lens closest to the back of the ocular.
After you remove the eyecup, you'll be able to see if
the eyelens is adjustable. The eyelens may look like a
miniature version of the objective lens in Fig. B 14. Here
the eyelens cell has an eccentric shoulder. An eccentric
ring fits around the shoulder of the eyelens cell. And a
retaining ring screws over the retaining ring to hold the
adjustment. After loosening the retaining ring, you can
turn the eccentric ring to shift the eyelens.

FIG. B38 An adjustable eyelens.

oculars with the eyelens are the same as those for collimating the binoculars with the objective lens-only
the actual adjustment points are different. Section CAdjusting Binoculars--covers
the collimation procedures.

DISASSEMBLY OF OPERA GLASSES

After working on conventional binoculars, you probably won't have any trouble figuring out the disassembly of opera glasses. But there are some basic differences. In standard binoculars, as you've seen, you remove the oculars as an assembly. In opera glasses, you
normally remove the objective lenses as an assembly.
Here's a typical disassembly:
The opera glasses shown in Fig. B39 have a decorator
cap at the center of the focus knob. The cap is cemented
in position. Slide a thin tool, such as a small jewelers'
screwdriver, under the edge of the cap. Pry off the cap,
being careful to avoid cosmetic damage.

Another variation uses three setscrews around the outside circumference of the ocular, Fig. B38. The setscrews position the eyelens. By loosening one setscrew-and tightening another setscrew-you can shift
the position of the eyelens.

You can now see a crosspoint screw in the center of the

focus knob. Remove the screw. Now turn the focus knob
in a clockwise direction as seen from the back of the

You should normally avoid disturbing the adjustments

on an adjustable eyelens. However, if the binoculars
are out of collimation, the eyelens becomes your adjustment point. The procedures for collimating the bin-

Stop turning the focus knob the moment the tlu'eads of

the objective-lens shaft disengage. Then measure the
distance between the back of the focus knob and the

34/DISASSEMBL Y & REPAIR

opera glasses. The shaft of the objective-lens assembly

unscrews from the focus knob.

OBJECTIVE

body of the opera glasses-just

as you measure the
position of the focus knob with regular binoculars.

LENSES

Lift out the objective-lens assembly-the

two objective lenses and the shaft-toward the front of the opera
glasses, Fig. B40. Finally unscrew the focus knob from
the hinge pin-this time, turn the focus knob in a counterclockwise direction as seen from the back of the
opera glasses.
Next unscrew the two oculars-the oculars just thread
into the body. With the oculars removed, you can lift
off the two prism-cover plates. Notice that it was necessary to remove the focus knob before the prism-cover
plates could be removed. You can now reach the porro
prisms. lYpically the prism shelves are separate parts.
Each prism shelf is held by three screws. There may
also be adjustment screws on the prism shelves; each
prism shelf may have two or three adjustment screws
for adjusting the collimation.
For now, you might
shelves-we'll
cover
tion. You can at this
front porro prism for

prefer to not disturb the prism

the adjustments in the next sectime reach one surface on each
cleaning.

\
.

FIG. B39 TYPical opera glasses.

To reach the porro-prism surfaces on the objective-lens

side, unscrew the two objective-lens tubes, Fig. B40.
Each objective-lens tube has a lens-part of the objective-lens assembly.
OBJECTIVE-LENS

Most of the optics are now available for cleaning. But

chances are you're working on the opera glasses because of the need for adjustment. In that case, you'll
want to partially reassemble the opera glasses.
Follow the reassembly procedure. But temporarily
leave off the prism-cover plates. You can then reach the
prism-shelf adjustments. Proceed to the next section
for the adjustments.

FOCUS
KNOB

ADJUSTABLE
OCULAR

ASSEMBLY

OBJECTIVELENS TUBES

t
OBJECTIVELENS SHAFT

REASSEMBLY OFTHE OPERA GLASSES

Replace the prism-cover plates (unless you're going to
adjust the opera glasses) and the oculars. The ocular
with the diopter adjustment goes on the left-hand sidethe side on which the prism-cover plate has an index
dot. If you leave off the prism-cover plates to reach the
adjustments, you can still screw the oculars into the
body.
Screw the focus knob onto the threads at the end of the
hinge pin-keep turning the focus knob clockwise until it's at the distance you measured during disassembly. Then insert the objective-lens assembly, Fig. B41.
You can only insert the objective-lens assembly part

FIG. 840 Removing the objective-lens

assembly.
DISASSEM8L Y & REPAIRl35

way. The objective-lens shaft, Fig. B41, is then blocked

by the focus knob.

Now turn the focus knob counterclockwise (as seen

from the back) to draw in the objective-lens assembly.
Help the two objective lenses pass over the objectivelens tubes as you turn the focus knob. Draw in the objective-lens assembly as far as it will go. Then replace
the screw at the end of the objective-lens rod (center of
focus knob). Use a touch of Pliobond to cement the
decorator plate at the center of the focus knob.

'.
,;:t:.

OBJECTIVELENS TUBES

SUMMARY OF DISASSEMBLY RULES

AND PRECAUTIONS
1. Disassemble only one side of the binoculars at a
time. You can then use the side you haven't disassembled
as your standard for setting up adjustments. Adjust the
side you've just reassembled before disassembling the
other side. The side you've just adjusted then becomes
your standard.
2. If the objective lenses are adjustable, you can see the
eccentric rings from the front (under the retaining rings
that hold the objective lenses). Removing the retaining
ring will then disturb the collimation adjustment.
3. If the binoculars use eccentric rings on the objective
lenses, be careful when unscrewing the objective-lens
tubes-a change in the rotational position of the objective-lens tube affects collimation. Mark the objectivelens tubes before disassembly. On reassembly, use just
enough tightening torque to align your marks.
4. You can usually reach the front porro prisms by unscrewing the objective-lens tubes and removing the front
prism-cover plates. If the objective-lens tubes are not
separate parts, the prism shelves are removable-it's
then necessary to remove the prism shelves to reach
the front porro prisms. But be careful-there
may be
adjustment screws on the prism shelves.
5. To reach the rear porro prisms, it's usually necessary
to take out the ocular assembly. You can often remove
the ocular assembly as a unit together with the hinge
pin. Removing the hinge pin allows you to separate the
two binocular sides. However, there's a problem with
removing the hinge pin-you then disturb the hingepressure adjustment. A customer will quickly notice
any change in the amount of pressure required to spread
the binocular sides. To maintain the hinge pressure, you
can unscrew the ocular shaft from the focus knob and
leave the hinge pin in the binoculars.
6. Removing the adjustable ocular disturbs the diopter
adjustment. Use the fixed ocular as your reference for

36/DISASSEMBL Y & REPAIR

FOCUS
KNOB

FIG. B41 Installing the objective-lens

assembly.
resetting the adjustable ocular-the
to 0 diopter.

tIxed ocular is set

7. If the fixed ocular is ttu'eaded-and locked by a setscrew-the ocular can be adjusted. Removing the fixed
ocular then disturbs the adjustment. On reassembly,
screw in the fixed ocular to the O-diopter setting. Use
the adjustable ocular-set to 0 diopter-to
determine
the O-diopter setting for the fixed ocular.
Whenever you see a setscrew, use caution-the setscrew
is probably locking an adjustable pUtt. Loosening the
setscrew and turning the part disturbs an adjustment.
8. Removing the porro ptisms from the prism shelves
will disturb adjustments. If the manufacturer uses the
porro prisms for collimation, the cutouts in the prism
shelves are noticeably larger than the pon'o prismsyou can then shift positions of the porro prisms. Note
the adjusted positions of the pono prisms with respect
to the cutouts.
9. If the porro prisms are used for collimation adjustments, dabs of hot wax or cement hold the porro prisms
in the adjusted positions. Impact may cause the porro
prisms to break loose from the cement. Align the pOlTO
prisms with the cement dabs on reassembly-the
collimation may then be correct without further adjustment.

SECTION C-ADJUSTING
BINOCULARS
A

..

en

en

large
percentage
of the
that come into
the
repair
shop need
onlybinoculars
one thing-adjustment.
The common complaint is, "I see two images" or, "The
image isn't clear. "

oct:

oct:

...J

...J

c:(

c:(

xc:(

i=
0..

There are two optical adjustments that may bring binoculars into a repair shop--collimation and image tilt
(or rotational error). Most other adjustments are only
necessary if you've disassembled the binoculars.

u
i=
o

D-

...J
oct:

U
Z
oct:

::c

U
:i!
w

COLLIMATION
The most frequently required adjustment is collimation. If the binoculars are properly collimated, each
optical axis aligns with the mechanical axis. The mechanical axis is the hinge pin, Fig. C 1. The optical axis
of each side of the binoculars should then align with
the hinge pin as shown in Fig. C 1.
If the binoculars are out of collimation, you may see
two images-one
image from each side of the binoculars. After a moment, your eyes may compensate for
the error. You then see only one image. But using the
binoculars still results in eyestrain-and headaches.
The collimation may appear conect when the binocular sides are fairly close together (small interpupillary
distance). But when you spread the binocular halves
(increase the interpupillary distance), you can see two
images. The collimation becomes more critical as you
increase the interpupillary distance.
When you disassemble to make an adjustment-as
when you're disassembling the binoculars for any other
reason-remember
to disassemble only one side at a
time. You can then use the side you haven't disassembled
as your standard. After you reassemble the one side,
make the adjustments on that side-before you disassemble the other side. The reassembled/adjusted side
now becomes your standard.

FIG. C1 In properly collimated

binoculars, the two optical axes align
with the mechanical axis.

r----------------,
:

"TARGETS'

I
I

I
I

I
I

LENS

LENS

CHECKING COLLIMATION
Although there are special instruments available for
checking collimation, most technicians simply use a
visual check. The special instruments are expensive.
Plus they can be difficult to obtain.
We mentioned that each optical axis should align with
the hinge pin. Fig. C2 shows a collimator-test fixture
for aligning the optical axes to the mechanical axis. A
clamp holds the binoculars by the hinge pin-the hinge
pin is now perpendicular to the targets in the tester.

FIG. C2 A collimation-test

fixture.

ADJUSTING BINOCULARS/37

MOUNT TO HOLD BINOCULARS

TELESCOPE

SLIDE

FIG. C4

FIG. C3

Each target sits behind a lens. The distance between

the lens and the target is equal to the focal length of the
lens. As a result, the target appears to be at infinityan infinite distance away. And the light rays coming
from the lenses are parallel, Fig. C2.
Since the targets are at infinity, the optical axes of the
objective lenses should be parallel to the hinge pin. If
not, the targets as viewed through the binoculars appear off center. All you have to do is collimate each
side individually to center the target.

~~~UMINATED

TARGET

FIG. C5 At left, the view when the

binocular side is out of collimation. At
right, the view when the side is properly
collimated.

The actual tester may look more like Fig. C3. This tester
uses two collimators to project the infinity targets. A
collimator consists simply of an objective lens, a target
placed at the focal point of the objective lens, and an
illumination system for the target. The actual illuminated target projected by the collimator may be a
crosshair or a special pattern, Fig. C5.

Since the image of the illuminated target passes through

the binocular, it may be displaced by the binocular optics, Fig. C5 (left). But the reticle in the telescope always appears centered. The greater the collimation error, the fmther the illuminated target is displaced from
the reticle.

A small telescope mounts on a slide at the other end of

the tester, Fig. C3. As you look through the telescope,
you see a reticle, Fig. C5-the reticle is inside the telescope.

In use, you just slide the telescope until you can sight
through one side of the binoculars, Fig. C3. You then
adjust that side until the projected target centers on the
reticle, Fig. C5 (right).

38/ADJUSTING

BINOCULARS

Next you slide the telescope until you can sight through
the other side of the binouclars, Fig. C4. And adjust
that side until the projected target centers on the reticle.
A variation of the tester uses a single collimator. The
table that mounts the binouclars then slides, allowing
you to align each side of the binouclars with the collimator.
The tester shown in Fig. C3 may be too expensive for
most independent shops-you would have to be repairing binoculars all day and every day to justify the expense. The fixture that holds the binoculars, lenses, and
targets in alignment must be very precise.
However, most visual techniques-and
even the techniques with many test instruments-simply
align one
side of the binoculars with the other side. You can then
use one side as your standard-generally
the side you
haven't disassembled. Align the optical axis of the other
side with that of the standard side.
Look through the binoculars to check for a second image. You should be able to readily detect if one image
is higher than the other-your eyes normally can't compensate for up-down error.
But your eyes may compensate for side-to-side erroryour eyes may actually cross slightly to merge the two
images into one. By continuously blinking, however,
you can defeat the compensating effect.

FIG C6 The image at the right is higher

than the image at the left. But are you
sure the image at the right is coming
from the right-hand side of the
binoculars? The images may be crossing
over one another.

If you have a way to mount the binoculars in one spot,

you can align the optical axes to the hinge pin. Aim the
hinge pin at a distant target. A 6" ruler, placed on top
of the hinge pin, can help as a sighting device. Then
sight through each side of the binoculars in turn. The
same target should center on each side of the binoculars. Here you're using a target that's effectively at infinity to simulate the tester shown in Fig. C4.

Or close one eye and center a distant target through

one side of the binoculars. Then, without moving the
binoculars, view through the other side with one eye.
The same target should appear centered.
By alternating eyes, you can also make certain which
image is which. For example, suppose a tree appears
as shown in Fig. C6 as you're viewing with both eyes.
Here it seems that the image seen through the right
side of the binoculars is slightly above and to the right
of the image seen through the left side. But it's possible that the binoculars are so far out of collimation
that the images cross-the
image that appears to be
from the right side may actually be from the left side.
You may find that one side is so far out of collimation
that you can only see through the other side. In that
case, you don't know the direction that you have to
move the errant image. Try moving the binocular sides
closer together (decreasing the interpupillary distance)
until you can see images through both sides. When you
can see two images, you can determine which direction the one image must move.

FIG. C7 A V-block for holding the

binoculars by the hinge pin.
ADJUSTING BINOCULARS/39

For example, suppose that you aligned the hinge pin

with the tree in Fig. C8. As you sight through the left
side, you can see that the tree appears centered. The
left side of the binoculars is then properly collimated.
But as you sight through the right side, the tree appears
off-center. The right side must now be collimated to
center the tree.
Using the technique shown in Fig. C8, there's no question as to which side is out of collimation--or as to the
direction you must move the image. The main problem is in finding a way to secure the binoculars in one
position-and
still be able to sight on a target that's, in
effect, at an infinite distance.
It's actually easier to detect image correction if you keep
your eyes around 6 inches behind the binoculars. You
can then see the circles formed by the oculars as well
as the images, Fig. C9. One technique is to sight on a
horizontal line that's fairly close to the binocularsperhaps a window ledge at the other side of the room.
The horizontal line should appear continuous as shown
in Fig. C9.
If the binoculars are out of collimation, the horizontal
line on one side will be higher or lower, Fig. C 10. Here
you're taking advantage of the fact that your eyes can't
readil y compensate for up-down elTor.

FIG. C8 A test setup that simulates the

binocular-collimator fixture.
40/ADJUSTING

BINOCULARS

FIG. C9 With your eyes around 6" behind

the oculars, you see two circles. The
continuous horizontal line indicates
proper collimation.

FIG. C10 The broken horizontal line tells

you the binoculars are out of collimation.

Also check collimation at different interpupillary distances. The collimation may appear acceptable if the
binocular sides are close together. But when you increase the interpupillary distance, you can see the images separate.
Some factory testers also ignore the mechanical axis
and simply align one optical axis with the other optical
axis. Fig. Cll and Fig. C12 show a hand-held collimating tool that allows you use one eye and see the
image formed by each side of the binoculars.

FIG. C11 A hand-held collimating tool.

Since you're only using one eye, your eyes can't compensate for an error. A properly collimated pair of binoculars shows only one image-the two separate images merge. But if the binoculars are out of collimation, you see two images. The two images are slightly
different in color. You can then note which direction
you must move the image on one side.
The tool uses a pair of prisms to provide the two images, Fig. C 13. You look directly through one prism to
see through one side of the binoculars-the prism you're
looking directly through has a yellowish or pinkish hue,
giving the image a light tint. The image from the other
side of the binoculars goes through the long prism and
reflects from the 4Y surface to the eyepiece.
When you're holding the tool as shown in Fig. C12,
the tinted image is coming from the right-hand side of
the binoculars. The white image is coming from the
left-hand side. You then adjust one side of the binoculars until the two images superimpose. Again you're
just adjusting the optical axis of one side to match the
optical axis of the other side.

EVELENS

FIG. C12

The tool does offer a big advantage over visual techniques. Since the images are different in color, you know
which image is coming from which side. So, if the
images actually cross over one another, there's no confusion. Perhaps the tinted image appears to the left of
the white image. You then know that the images are
crossing over one another.
If you're repairing binoculars professionally, you can
probably justify the cost of the tool shown in Fig. C 11.
You might check with binocular manufacturers for the
tool availability and cost.
The special tools for checking collimation require little
practice to use. The tool shown in Fig. Cll makes it
readily apparent which way you must move either image. Visual techniques, however, do require some practice. Normally you want to note the direction you need
to move one image. Then make an adjustment and check
your results. Unless you have a way to mount the binoculars in a stationary position, it's very difficult to

"" PRISM PAIR

LIGHT PATH

"'"

EVELENS

TINTED
PRISM

FIG. C13 Prisms in collimating tool.

ADJUSTING BINOCULARS/41

watch the image movement while you're making the

adjustment.
There are four types of collimation
find in binoculars-objective-Iens
lens adjustments,
porro-prism
prism-shelf adjustments. A pair
mally has one of the four types.

ECCENTRIC
ECCENTRIC

RING

LENS MOUNT

adjustments you'll
adjustments, eyeadjustments,
and
of binoculars nor-

What would cause binoculars to be out of collimation?

Impact is a common culprit. If the binocular uses the
porro prisms for adjustment, each porro prism is locked
in place with dabs of cement. Impact can break loose
the cement and cause the porro prism to shift.
Loose screws can also cause the problem. Perhaps the
binoculars use the objective lenses for adjustment. If
the screws holding the prism shelves work loose, the
porro prisms can tilt. You may then be able to adjust
the collimation with the objective lenses. But unless
you tighten the loose screws, the binoculars won't stay
in adjustment.

FIG. C14 Two eccentric rings used to

position the objective lens.
OBJECTIVE-LENS

CELL

ECCENTRIC

RING

OBJECTIVE-LENS ADJUSTMENTS
In many binocular designs, eccentric rings position the
objective lenses, Fig. C14. An eccentric ring fits over
the shoulder at the front of the objective-lens cell, Fig.
C15. The lens-cell shoulder is also an eccentric.
ECCENTRIC

Turning the eccentric rings allows you to shift the optical axes of the objective lenses. Remember that you're
viewing the image after that image has passed through
the erecting system. You then shift the objective lens
in the opposite direction that you want the image to
move.

SHOULDER

FIG. C15 Side view of the objective-lens

cell.

For example, in Fig. C16 the left binocular side is

properly collimated-it
aligns with the hinge pin. But
the right binocular side is out of collimation. Here you
want to adjust the right-side image- move the image
from right to left. If you're looking through the binoculars, you must then shift the right-side objective lens to
your light. Or, if you're looking at the front of the objective lens, Fig. C14, shift the objective lens to your
left.
Similarly, if the image is too high, shift up the objective lens-moving
up the objective lens moves down
the image. Shifting the objective lens a slight distance
moves thc image a relatively large distance.
To reach the objective-lens adjustment, remove the
decorator cap at the front of the objective-lens tube,
Fig. C17. Usually the decorator cap unscrews-hold
the objective-lens tube as you unscrew the decorator
cap (the objective-lens tube also screws into place). But

421ADJUSTING BINOCULARS

BACK VIEW OF
RIGHT-SIDE
OBJECTIVE LENS

FIG. C16

if the decorator cap is rubber, it may simply lift off.

You'll then see a retaining ring around the objective
lens, Fig. C17. The retaining ring both holds the objective lens in place and locks the adjustment on the
eccentric ring.

FRONT VIEW

If you completely remove the retaining ring, you can

lift out the eccentric ring and the objective-lens cell.
But, for adjustment purposes, you may only have to
loosen the retaining ring.

DECORATOR

:J
RETAINING

_~~~~~~/~"'3

You can see the eccentric rings without removing the

retaining ring. Each eccentric ring may have spanner
notches, Fig. CI8. The inner ring is the eccentric lens
mount; the outer ring is the free-turning eccentric ring.
You can use the spanner notches to hold one eccentric
ring stationary as you turn the other eccentric ring.
The tool shown in Fig. CI9 was designed for turning
the eccentric rings independently of one another. The
tool consists of two tubes. Each tube has tips at one
end to fit the notches of the eccentric rings.

RING

SIDE VIEW

FIG. C17 Disassembly to reach the

objective lens.

In use, you simply slip the smaller tube inside the larger
tube, Fig. CI9 . You can now use the tool to engage
both eccentric rings simultaneously. Hold the smaller
tube and turn the larger tube to rotate the outer eccentric ring. Or hold the larger tube and turn the smaller
tube to turn the inner eccentric ring.
Since the tool is tubular, you can view through the
binoculars while you're making the adjustment (pro-

FIG. C18 Each eccentric ring may have

spanner notches. The inner notches are
on the objective-lens mount.
ADJUSTING BINOCULARS/43

viding you can find a way to hold the binoculars stationary). You can then watch the image shift as you
rotate the eccentric rings.
The tool shown in Fig. C19 may not be a practical
investment for most shops. For one thing, the tool fits
only one size. Plus, in most binoculars, the objectivelens mount does not have spanner notches-only
the
eccentric ring has spanner notches.
It's then only necessary to loosen the retaining ring,
Fig. C20-you can reach the notches in the eccentric
ring by working under the retaining ring. To turn the
eccentric ring, use a tool that won't cause damage if it
slips-for
example, a sharpened piece of pegwood.
Insert the tool into one eccentric-ring notch. Then turn
the eccentric ring to shift the optical axis of the objective lens.
Here you can't watch the image move as you make the
adjustment. You should first make a mental note as to
which direction you want to move the image. Then,
working from the front of the binoculars, turn the eccentric ring to move the objective lens in the desired
direction.

FIG. C19 A special tool for adjusting the

eccentric rings-separated
at left and
assembled at right.
ECCENTRIC

RING

For example, Fig. C21 A shows the objective lens centered-the thickest part of the eccentric ring aligns with
the thinnest part of the eccentric lens-cell shoulder. To
shift the objective lens the maximum distance to the
right, you can hold the lens cell and turn the eccentric
ring 180 -to the position shown in Fig. C2lB. Now
the thickest part of the eccentric ring aligns with the
thickest part of the lens-mount shoulder.
Or perhaps the eccentric rings are in the positions shown
in Fig. C21B. And you want to shift up the objective
lens the maximum distance. You can then turn both
eccentric rings 90 in a counterclockwise direction.
Shifting up the objective lens, you11 recall, moves down
the image.

FIG. C20 You can see the eccentric ring

under the retaining ring. Here the
eccentric ring has only one notch.

Normally you don't need to move the objective lens

the maximum distance-a small amount of objectivelens movement results in a relatively large amount of
image movement. And you're generally adjusting one
side of the binoculars (the side you've disassembled)
to match the other side (the side that's your standard).
Very little movement of the objective lens should then
be required.

A
Since you normally need so little objective-lens movement, technicians sometimes try a shortcut. Remember from Section B that the rotational position of the
objective-lens tube can also affect collimation-providing the binoculars use eccentric adjustments on the
objective lenses. Turning the complete objective-lens

44/ADJUSTING

BINOCULARS

FIG. C21 In A, the objective lens is

centered by the eccentric rings. In B, the
objective lens has been moved the
maximum distance to the right.

tube shifts the position of the objective lens-just as

turning the eccentric ring shifts the objective lens.
In Section B, we stressed returning the objective-lens
tube to its original position. But, if you have to adjust
the collimation, you might try turning the objectivelens tube. Adding a slight amount of torque to screw in
the objective-lens tube a little further-or backing out
the objective-lens tube slightly-may provide sufficient
movement.

--

You can obtain very little adjustment by turning the

objective-lens tube. Trying to overtighten the objective-lens tube could damage the threads. And you can
only back out the objective-lens tube a slight distance
before it's loose. In most cases, you would probably
only turn the objective-lens tube to fine-tune your objective-lens adjustments.

EYELENS ADJUSTMENTS
Section B also mentions the eyelens adjustments found
in some binoculars. Remember that the eyelens may
use an eccentric ring. The eyelens cell then has an eccentric shoulder-like
the eccentric shoulder on the
objective-lens cell just discussed. And, like the objective-lens eccentric ring, an eccentric ring fits around
the eyelens-cell shoulder.

FIG. C22 Turning out setscrews C and B

equal amounts-and
turning in setscrew
A-moves the eyelens in the
arrowmarked direction. Or you could
loosen B slightly more than you loosen
C. Then, as you turn in A, the eyelens
shifts to the right and up.

Or three setscrews may position the eyelens cell, Fig.

C22; a fourth setscrew from the top normally locks the
adjustment. You can then shift the eyelens by loosening and tightening setscrews.
For example, suppose that you want to move the eyelens to the right in Fig. C22-the direction shown by
the arrow. You can then loosen setscrews C and D in
equal amounts. Turn in setscrew A to push the eyelens
to the right-against
setscrews C and D.

Or perhaps you want to move the eyelens at an angle as

shown by the arrow in Fig. C23. You could then loosen
setscrew B. Turn in setscrews A and C.
Not many binoculars use adjustments on the eyelens.
But if the eyelens is adjustable, the collimation procedures are the same as we've already described for the
objective lens. The only difference-you're
making the
adjustments on the eyelens.
You can spot an adjustable eyelens after removing the
eyecup-you
should be able to see the eccentric ring
under the retaining ring. Or, if the eyelens uses setscrew adjustments, you can see the setscrews around
the outer circumference of the ocular-and probably a
locking setscrew at the top of the eyelens cell.

FIG. C23 Turning out setscrew B-and

turning in setscrews A and C-moves
the eyelens in the arrowmarked
direction.

ADJUSTING BINOCULARS/45

FIG. C24 Setscrews used to tilt the porro prisms on the objective side. Another pair
of setscrews tilts the porro prisms on the ocular side.
PORRO-PRISM ADJUSTMENTS
Many binoculars provide no adjustments on the objective lenses. To collimate the binoculars, it's necessary
to shift the pono prisms. And reaching the pono prisms
for adjustment requires partial disassembly of the binoculars.
Remember that each side of the binoculars has two pOlTa
prisms. The prisms fit on the prism shelf in the binocular body, Fig. C24. If you remove the prism cover on
the objective-lens side, you can see the porro prism on
one side of the shelf, Fig. C24. If you remove the prism
cover on the ocular side, you can see the porro prism
on the other side of the shelf.
You've seen that each porro prism sits within a cutout
in the prism shelf. The cutout matches the shape of the
porro prism-but
the cutout is larger than the porro
prism. In binoculars designed for objective-lens adjustment, the cutout may be only slightly larger than the
porro prism; the porro prism then fits snugly within
the cutout. But if the binoculars were designed for prism
adjustment, the cutout may be quite a bit longer than
the pono prism. It's then possible to shift the porro
prism within the cutout.
A prism clamp across the top of the pono prism, Fig.
C24, secures the adjusted position. The prism clamp
may be held by screws. Or each end of the prism clamp
may simply slide into a slot in the binocular body. In
binoculars designed for prism adjustments, each pono
prism is also cemented in its adjusted position. Dabs
of cement or hot wax hold the pono prism.

46/ADJUSTING

BINOCULARS

After removing the cement-and

possibly loosening
the prism clamp-you can shift the porro prism within
the cutout. Sliding the porro prism as shown by the
double-ended arrow in Fig. C25 shifts the image position for collimation. TIlting the porro prism also shifts
the image position.
TIlting the porro prism may require using shims-thin
pieces of metal or paper-to hold the adjusted position. But many binoculars-especially
higher quality
binoculars-have
setscrew adjustments, Fig. C24. You
can then tilt the prism by turning the setscrew.
If you see a setscrew, Fig. C24, reach the screw slot
from the outside of the binocular body. You may be
able to see the screw slot. Or you may have to remove
a decorator disc or peel back the leatherlike body covering to reach the screw slot.

FIG. C25 To move the image as shown by

the double-ended arrow, shift the porro
prism in the same direction

The positions of the porro prisms, however, affect more

than the collimation-they
also affect the rotational
position of the image. Each porro prism must be at a
90 angle to its mate, Fig. C26. If the angle is greater
or less than 90, the image appears tilted, Fig. C27B.
Check the image tilt by viewing a horizontal linesuch as the top edge of a fence-through
the binoculars. View through each binocular side in turn. If the
image through one side appears tilted, the porro prisms
on that side aren't at a perfect 90 angle.
The porro prisms, then, affect two critical adjustmentscollimation and rotational error. That's why you should
avoid disturbing the porro-prism positions. But when
you do have to adjust the porro prisms, use the porro
prism at the front of the binocular side (the porro
prism closer to the objective) to adjust for rotational
error. Use the porro prism at the back of the binocular side (closer to the eyelens) to adjust collimation.

FIG. C26 The angle between the

porro prisms should be 90.

ADJUSTING ROTATIONAL ERROR WITH

THE PORRO PRISMS
If the problem with the binoculars is rotational error,
you need only adjust the front porro prism. With most
binoculars, unscrew the complete objective-lens tube,
Fig. C29-the objective-lens tube screws into the binocular body (but, if the binoculars use objective-lens
collimation adjustments, remember to mark the position of the objective-lens tube). Then remove the prismcover plate at the front of the body. Usually, one or two
screws hold the cover plate. But you may find that the
cover plate simply lifts off after you remove the objective-lens tube.
You can now reach the front porro prism, Fig. C28. If
there's cement or wax holding the porro prism at the
comers, Fig. C28, carefully remove the cement. And,
if the clamp is held by screws, it may be necessary to
loosen the prism-clamp screws. You can then shift the
porro prism to adjust the angle.

8
FIG. C27 The view of a horizontal line in
A shows no rotational error. B shows
rotational error on the right side.
FRONT PORRO PRISM

Check the image tilt without replacing the cover platejust screw the objective-lens tube into the binocular
body. Once you've shifted the porro prism to the proper
angle, check collimation-remember
that sliding the
porro prism will affect the image position.
If the binocular body and the objective-lens tube are
one piece, it's more difficult to reach the front porro
prism. The prism shelf is a separate part. Reaching the
front porro prism then requires removing the prism shelf
from the ocular side.

FACE OF REAR
PORRO PRISM

FIG. C28 Shift the end of the front porro

prism as indicated by the double-ended
arrow to correct rotational error.
ADJUSTING BINOCULARS/47

You can then reach the front porro prism to shift its
angle. But to check the results of your adjustment, you
must replace the prism shelf.

ADJUSTING THE PORRO PRISM FOR

COLLIMATION
If you have to collimate the binoculars-and
there's no
eccentric ring on the objective lens- shift the rear porro
prism. Unfortunately, the rear porro prisms are often
harder to reach than the front porro prisms-you
may
have to remove the oculars.
In Section B, Disassembly & Repair Techniques, you
saw that you can usually remove the two oculars as an
assembly. You may prefer to remove the two oculars
together with the hinge pin, Fig. C29-just unscrew
the hinge-adjusting screw at the front of the binoculars. But, as you'll recall, you may then lose the hingepressure adjustment. You can avoid disturbing the hingepressure adjustment by unscrewing the ocular shaft from
the focus knob as described in Section B.
Reach the porro prism by removing the rear-prism cover,
Fig. C29. Like the front-prism cover, the rear-prism
cover is normally held by screws. You may also have
to unscrew one of the ocular tubes, Fig. C29-the metal
tube that passes inside the ocular.
Now check the rear porro prism-there may be an obvious reason why the binoculars are out of collimation. If the binoculars were dropped, the porro prism
may have broken loose from its cement.
In that case, as you'll recall, it may only be necessary
to realign the porro prism. Use the dabs of cement as
your guides. Part of each cement dab may have remained with the prism shelf-and the other part of each
cement dab may have remained with the porro prism.
Shift the porro prism until the sections of the cement
dabs align.

FIG. C29 Sliding out the ocular

assembly.
cover plates. You can then reach the porro prismseither to recement the porro prisms or to adjust the positions.
If you do have to adjust the collimation, note ifthere's
a setscrew to control the tilt. You can then reach the
setscrew from the outside of the binocular body-but,
as mentioned earlier, you may have to peel aside the
leatherlike body covering to locate the slot of the setscrew.
The end of the setscrew comes against the upper end of
the porro prism-the position of the arrow in Fig. C30.
The spring action of the prism clamp then holds the
porro plism against the setscrew.

Or the entire dab of cement may have remained with

the prism shelf. But you can still see an outline of the
cement dabs on the sides of the porro prism. Just align
the cement dabs with the outlines.
In many cases, shifting the porro prism to align the
cement dabs corrects the collimation. Also check the
other porro prisms-if
one porro prism broke loose,
there's a good chance the other porro prisms broke loose
as well.
Before recementing the porro prisms, reassemble the
binoculars and check collimation. Remember that you
can often reassemble the binoculars without the prism-

48/ADJUSTING

BINOCULARS

FIG. C30 The setscrew comes against the

top of the porro prism (arrowmarked
position).

TIlting the porro prism moves the image as shown by

the double-ended arrow in Fig. C31. For example, say
you turn in the setscrew (screw-tightening direction).
The image then moves in the A direction, Fig. C31.
The spring action of the prism clamp allows the porro
prism to tilt.
If you back out the setscrew (screw-loosening direction), the image moves in the B direction, Fig. C31.
Now the spring action of the prism clamp pushes the
porro prism against the end of the setscrew.
Sliding the porro prism moves the image as shown by
the double-ended arrow in Fig. C32 (A and B). Slide

A~B

the porro prism in the same direction as you want

the image to move.
You normally can't watch the image movement as you're
adjusting the porro prism. First check the collimation
and note which direction you must move the image. If
you want to move the image as shown by the double-

REAR PORRO PRISM ON LEFT SIDE

FIG. C31 Image movement from tilting

the porro prism.

REAR PORRO PRISM ON RIGHT SIDE

SLIDING
ADJUSTMENT

A
B

----------------L--------------TILTING
ADJUSTMENT

FIG. C32 The double-ended arrows indicate the direction the image can be moved
with the adjustments shown.
ADJUSTING BINOCULARS/49

ended arrow in Fig. C31, you know you must tilt the
porro prism. Or, if you want to move the image as shown
by the double-ended arrows by the top drawings in Fig.
C32, you know you must slide the porro prism.
Disassemble the binoculars as far as necessary to reach
the porro-prism adjustments. Make the adjustment.
Then temporarily reassemble the binoculars just far
enough to check the effect of your adjustment.
For example, consider in Fig. C33 that the images do
not cross-the tree appearing at the right is the image
viewed through the right-hand side, and the tree appearing at the left is the image viewed through the lefthand side. Here we're holding the binoculars with the
left-hand image centered. But, unless you're aligning
the optical axes with the mechanical axis, you don't
know which side should be centered and which side
should be adjusted.

FIG. C33

Let's say you've just worked on the right-hand side.

You then know you want to move the right-side image
slightly down and to the right. From Fig. C34B, you
can see that you can tilt the right-side porro prism to
move the image in the desired direction. Thrn in the
setscrew to move the image in the direction of the arrow, Fig. C34B.
Or perhaps you've repaired the left-hand side. You can
then move the right-hand image up and to the right by
sliding the left-side porro prism. Move the left-side
porro prism as shown in A of Fig. C34.

FIG. C34

As another example, perhaps you see the result shown

in Fig. C35. And you've repaired the right-hand side.
You want to move the right-side image slightly up and
to the left.
You can now slide the right-side porro prism as shown
in B of Fig. C36. Remember, slide the porro prism in
the same direction as you want the image to move.
Whatifyou want to move the left-side image? You can
tilt the left-side porro prism by turning in the setscrew
as shown in A of Fig. C36.

FIG. C35

PRISM-SHELF ADJUSTMENTS
If the prism shelf is a separate part (as opposed to being built into the binocular body), it may be adjustable.
Look for adjustment screws next to the prism-shelf
screws, Fig. C37. You can easily recognize an adjustment screw-an adjustment screw appears to be a screw
that hasn't been fully tightened.
One end of each adjustment screw comes against the
binocular body, Fig. C38. Turning in the adjustment

50/ADJUSTING

BINOCULARS

FIG. C36

screw then tilts the prism shelf-and thereby the porro

prisms-in
one direction. Turning out the adjustment
screw-and
then tightening the prism-shelf screwtilts the prism shelf in the other direction.
Some binoculars may have only two adjustment screws.
But most adjustable prism shelves have three adjustment screws--one by each prism-shelf screw. Tilt the
prism shelf in the same direction as you want the
image to move.
For example, say that you want to move the image from
left to right-the
direction of the arrow in Fig. C39.
You can then turn in adjustment screw A (the screwtightening direction). Slightly loosen the three prismshelf screws. Then turn in adjustment screw A. Finally,
retighten the three prism-shelf screws.

FIG. C37

Recheck the adjustment after you tighten the prismshelf screws. TIghtening the screws may cause the image to shift.
Or you may want to move the image from right to leftthe direction of arrow #1 in Fig. C40. Turn out adjustment screw A (the screw-loosening direction). Then
turn down the prism-shelf screw indicated in Fig. C40.
Moving the image at an angle may require turning in
one adjustment screw and turning out another adjustment screw. Perhaps you want to move the image in
the direction of arrow #2 in Fig. C40. You can do so by
turning out adjustment screw B. Then turn in adjustment screws A and C

BODY

FIG. C38 Side view of the adjustment

screw.

ADJUSTMENT

FIG. C39

SCREW A

PRISM-SHELF

SCREW

FIG. C40
ADJUSTING

BINOCULARS/51

521ADJUSTING BINOCULARS

Fig. C41 shows some more examples of how you can

move the image in the arrowmarked direction. You can
change the angle of image movement by turning in (or
out) a pair of screws different amounts. For example,
in the top drawing of Fig. C41you can turn in adjustment screws Band C equal amounts to move the image in the arrowmarked direction. Or you can turn in
adjustment screws B and C different amounts to change
the angle of image movement. If you want to turn the
arrow slightly counterclockwise, turn in adjustment
screw C slightly more than adjustment screw B.
Remember to loosen the prism-shelf screws before you
turn in an adjustment screw. And tighten the prismshelf screws after you turn out an adjustment screw.

from around 80 feet to

00.

You'll recall that the light rays from an 00 subject are

parallel to one another, Fig. C42 (top). But if the subject is closer than 00, the light rays diverge, Fig. C42
(bottom). The objective lens then brings the light rays
together at a point behind the 00 focal point. The closer
the subject, the more the incident light rays divergeand the further the light rays come together behind the
objective.
The focal point of the ocular in Fig. C42 (bottom) is
now to the front of the focal point of the objective lens.
As a result, the image appears out of focus. To focus
the binoculars, you must move the oculars away from
the objective lenses.

ADJUSTING FOCUS
You'll see a focus error when you can't bring the focal
point of the oculars to the same position as the focal
point of the objectives. The problem is usually in the
oculars.
In Section B, you saw the adjustments on the oculars.
Normally adjustment is only necessary if you've disassembled and reassembled the oculars. However, you
may find that the setscrews holding the adjustable control knob have come loose. The control knob then slips,
losing the diopter adjustment. Refer to Disassembly of
the oculars in Section B for the adjustment procedure.
You may also encounter a focus error if you've disassembled and reassembled a focus-knob assembly. If
you've reassembled the ocular shaft with the focus knob
in the wrong position, you may not be able to focus
the binoculars throughout the full range. You may find
that you can focus on close subjects. But you can't focus on distant subjects--or vice versa.
Typically 7X binoculars should focus from around 40
feet to 00. With greater magnification, you normally
can't focus as close. A lOX binocular typically focuses

If you can't focus at a close enough distance, the oculars

aren't moving far enough away from the binocular bodies. It may then be necessary to again disengage the
ocular shaft from the focus knob. Thrn out the focus
knob to move it further from the hinge pin. Then restart the threads of the ocular shaft.
Or perhaps you can focus at a sufficiently close distance-but you can't focus at 00. In that case, the oculars
aren't moving close enough to the binocular bodies.
Again you may have to disengage the threads of the
ocular shaft from the focus knob. Turn in the focus
knob to move it closer to the hinge pin. Then restart
the threads of the ocular shaft.
How far you screw the focus knob in or out qepends on
the amount of error. It may require several tries to adjust the focus. You can now see why we stressed noting
the focus-knob position when the threads of the ocular
shaft disengage.

OTHER ADJUSTMENTS
The other adjustments
FOCAL POINT AT

INCIDENT
LIGHT
RAYS AT

are normally only necessary

00

OCULAR

00

OBJECTIVE
FOCAL POINT
AT FINITE
DISTANCE
INCIDENT
LIGHT RAYS
AT FINITE
DISTANCE

FIG. C42
ADJUSTING BINOCULARS/53

when you disassemble the binoculars. We described

the hinge-pressure adjustment in Section B. Remember that the hinge-pressure adjustment is normally the
screw at the end of the hinge. The adjusting screw often has a setscrew to lock the adjustment. After loosening the setscrew, you can turn the adjusting screwturn in the adjusting screw to increase the hinge pressure, turn out the adjusting screw to decrease the hinge
pressure.
If you can't adjust the hinge pressure with the screw,
the adjustment may require adding or removing washers. The washers are between the two binocular sides
at the hinge positions.
Another adjustment you may disturb during disassembly is the position of the IPD scale. Remember that it's
relatively easy to reset the IPD scale. Just set the IPD
scale until the number shown is the distance between
the optical centers of the eyelenses.
If the binoculars have a reticle, there's another adjustment you can disturb-the pOSition of the reticle, Fig.
C43. The reticle normally mounts in a tube that screws
into the prism shelf. A retaining ring at the top of the
tube secures the reticle. If you loosen the retaining ring,
you can turn the reticle to change its rotational position.
On reassembly, turn the reticle until its horizontal and
vertical graduations appear visually correct. Then replace the eyelens assembly and check the alignment. A
horizontal graduation on the reticle should align with a
horizontal line in the target you're viewing. Or check
the vertical graduation against a vertical line in the field.
Chances are you'll have to remove the ocular assembly, loosen the reticle retaining ring, and rotate the
reticle slightly. Replace the ocular assembly and again
check the alignment. You may need several tries before
the reticle aligns with horizontal and vertical lines in
the field.
Occasionally you may get the complaint that the reticule is out of focus. When you adjust the ocular for a
sharp image of the subject, the reticle graduations aren't
sharp.
Remember that the reticle sits at the focal point of the
objective lens. If the reticle isn't sharp when the image
is sharp, it isn't sitting at the focal point. Chances are
the reticle tube or the reticle retaining ring has worked
loose.

SUMMARY OF OPTICAL ADJUSTMENTS

You're normally

54/ADJUSTING

only concerned

with two adjust-

BINOCULARS

ALIGN THE VERTICAL RETICLE WITH A

VERTICAL LINE IN THE SUBJECT...

...OR THE HORIZONTAL RETICLE

WITH A HORIZONTAL LINE IN
THE SUBJECT

FIG. C43 Aligning the reticle.

ments-collimation
and rotational enor (image tilt).
For rotational error, use the front pono prism-the
pono prism closer to the objective lens. Turn the porro
prism to set a 90 angle between the two pono prisms.
Typically a pair of binoculars has one of the following
adjustments for collimation:
1. the objective lens. Unscrew the cap from the front
of the objective lens-but don't unscrew the retaining
ring that holds the objective lens. By looking at the
front of the objective lens, you can see if an eccentric
ring is used. You can see the eccentric ring under the
retaining ring. Move the objective lens in the opposite direction to desired image movement. Some binoculars have the collimation adjustments
on the
eyelenses rather than on the objective lenses.
2. the rear porro prism. If there's no eccentric on the
objective lens, the collimation adjustment may require
shifting the rear pOlTOprism (the porro prism on the
ocular side). The pOlTOpIism is then held in its adjusted position by dabs of cement. Slide the pOlTOprism
to move the image in one direction, Fig. C32 A & B.
Tilt the pono prism to move the image in the other
direction, Fig. C32 C & D. Some binoculars use setscrews to tilt the porro prisms; you can then reach the
setscrews from the outside of the binocular body. Slide
or tilt the porro prism in the same direction as you
want the image to move.
3. the prism shelf. If the binoculars use separate prism
shelves (rather than prism shelves that are built into
the bodies of the binoculars), each pIism shelf may be
adjustable. Look for adjustment screws on the prism
shelves. Most adjustable prism shelves have three adjustment screws. Some have only two adjustment
screws. Use the adjustment screws to tilt the prism
shelf in the same direction as you wan t the image to
move.

SECTION D-ZOOM BINOCULARS

Zoom
allow As
youyou
to move
changethethezoom
magnificationbinoculars
of the oculars.
control, optical elements move within each ocular. The
principle is similar to the zoom lenses used with cameras-the magnification increases or decreases as the
optics move.
To zoom the binoculars shown in Fig. DI, move the
zoom lever. A scale under the fixed ocular shows the
actual magnification you've set, Fig. D2. In some zoom
binoculars, the magnification scale is under the zoom
lever.
Moving the zoom lever moves the optics within the
adjustable ocular. A gear system connects the optics
inside the adjustable ocular to the movable optics inside the fixed ocular. Not all zoom binoculars use a
gear system to couple the two oculars; you'll see other
coupling systems in this section.

FIG. 01

But regardless of the coupling system, one ocular acts

as the master-it's
directly adjusted by the zoom lever. The other ocular acts as the slave. The master turns
the slave through the coupling system. In many systems, it's necessary to time the slave to the master. The
two oculars then have the same magnification.

OPERATION OF THE ZOOM LENS

A zoom lens is a combination of two lenses-a prime
lens with a fixed focal length and a variable-power
supplementary lens. The supplementary lens uses movable elements to change the focal length. In an ocular,
the prime lens is the eyelens-the eyelens stays in the
same position during the zoom. The variable-power
supplementary lens then sits in front of the eyelens.
Fig. D3 shows the optics in a varifocallens-a
lens
that allows you to change the focal length while shifting the focal point. The zooming element, Fig. D3,
moves along the axis to change the focal length. When
the zooming element is as far back as it can go, Fig.
D3A, the lens is at the longest focal length. Moving
the zooming element all the way forward, Fig. D3B,
provides the shortest focal length.
Although the lens shown in Fig. D3 changes the magnification during zoom, it also changes the focus. Most
zoom lenses compensate for the different focal length
to maintain the focus. The lens must add another moving component-the
compensating element.

FIG. 02

--(j]-A-MAXIMUM

FOCAL

LENGTH

--(1]-B-MINIMUM

FOCAL

LENGTH

FIG. 03
ZOOM BINOCULARS/55

There are two types of focus compensation used in zoom

lenses: optical compensation and mechanical compensation. Fig. D4 shows an optically compensated
zoom lens. Elements 1 and 3 are coupled together. As
you zoom the lens, both elements move as shown in
Fig. D4.
But most zoom lenses
systems. Here both the
pensating element are
move the elements at
different directions-as

use mechanically compensated

zooming element and the compositioned by cams. The cams
different speeds-and
often in
you change the focal length.

Fig. D5 shows the zooming element and the compensating element in a zoom ocular. The eyelens serves as
the prime lens-it doesn't change position during the
zoom. But the eyelens in the adjustable ocular does
move when you change the diopter setting.
In zoom binoculars, you still set the focus with the focus knob and the adjustable ocular. The ocular is then
focused at the focal point of the objective lens. As you
now zoom the ocular, the zooming element moves as
shown in Fig. D5. The magnification of the oculardetermined by the zooming element and the eyelenschanges.

~E-~
a-ilD

A cam tube holds both the zooming element and the

compensating element, Fig. D6. The screws that hold
the movable elements inside the cam tube also serve as
cam followers-the
screwheads ride within the cam
slots in the cam tube, Fig. D6.
Notice in Fig. D6 that the cam slots are different. A
straight carn slot moves the zooming element. Since
the cam slot is straight, the movement of the zooming

56JZOOM BINOCULARS

CD

FIG. 04 An optically compensated zoom

lens.
EYELENS

COMPENSATING ELEMENT

ZOOMING ELEMENT
FOCAL
POINT

A-MAXIMUM

Setting a lower magnification increases the separation

between the zooming component and the eyelens, Fig.
D5B. If it weren't for the compensating element, the
focal point of the ocular would also change. But, as
you can see in Fig. D5, the compensating element
moves toward the zooming component. The compensating element then shifts the focal point of the ocular.
The focal point remains in the same position as you
zoom the ocular, Fig. D5-the position you determined
when you focused the binoculars.
The movement of the zooming element is linear-the
separation between the zooming element and the eyelens changes the same amount for an equal amount of
magnification change. But the movement of the compensating elementis nonlinear-equal amounts of magnification change do not result in equal amounts of
movement. The mechanical cams set the positions of
the two movable elements and determine the movement rate.

CD

B-MINIMUM

FIG.05
ocular.

MAGNIFICATION

MAGNIFICATION

A mechanically coupled zoom

CAM SLOT FOR

COMPENSATING
ELEMENT

CAM SLOT FOR

ZOOMING ELEMENT
\

EYELENS

FOLLOWER SCREWS

FIG. 06 The cam tube holds the two

movable elements.

element is linear. But a curved cam slot moves the compensating element. The curved carn slot provides the
nonlinear movement. Also notice that the cam slots run
in opposite directions. As the zooming element moves
toward the front of the carn tube, the compensating element moves toward the back of the cam tube.
You can remove the elements from the carn tube by
taking out the follower screws. The compensating element slides out toward the back of the cam tube; the
zooming element slides out toward the front (eyelens
end) of the cam tube, Fig. 07.
Fig. 08 shows how the optics move within the cam
tube. The eyelens for the fixed ocular doesn't move;
the eyelens for the adjustable ocular moves only when
you change the diopter setting.
With the an ocular set at maximum magnification, the
lens cells are in the positions shown in Fig. 08A. The
zooming element is all the way to the back of the cam
tube. And the compensating element is all to way to
the front of the cam tube. There is now maximum separation between the elements.
Setting a lower magnification rotates the carn tube counterclockwise as seen from the eyelens end. Now the
zooming element moves toward the back of the carn
tube. And the compensating element moves toward the
front of the cam tube, Fig. D8B. At the lowest magnification, there's the minimum separation between the
compensating element and the zooming element.

A-MAXIMUM

LENS CELL WITH ZOOMING ELEMENT

LENS CELL WITH COMPENSATING ELEMENT

FIG.07

The lens cells removed from the

earn tube.

Changing the separation between the zooming element

and the eyelens changes the magnification. Without the
compensating element, the focal point would also
change. But the movement of the compensating element holds the focal point at the same position.
The carn tubes for each ocular fit inside the zoom tubes,
Fig. 09 and Fig. OlO-there's
one zoom tube inside
each ocular. As you turn the zoom lever, the zoom tubes
rotate. The zoom tubes then turn the cam tubes. With
the design shown in Fig. D9, a notch in the carn tube
keys over a screwhead on the zoom tube. So, as the

'"

MAGNIFICATION

LENS CELL WITH ZOOMING ELEMENT

LENS CELL WITH COMPENSATING ELEMENT

/B-MINIMUM

MAGNIFICATION

FIG. 08
ZOOM BINOCULARS/57

zoom tube rotates, it carries the cam tube

in the same direction.
But the zooming element and the compensating element do not rotate-the elements move along straight lines. The
guide slots in the ocular tubes, Fig. Dll,
prevent the elements from rotating. The
screwheads on the lens cells-the same
screwheads that ride within the cam
slots-fit into the guide slots. As the cam
tubes rotate, the cam slots move the elements in or out. The cam slots then determine the direction and the rate that
the elements move.

NOTCH THAT FITS

OVER SCREWHEAD
ON ZOOM RING

"
FIG. 09 earn tube "

removed.

Damage to the cam tube may result in

another malfunction-the
focus may
shift as you zoom. Once you've set the
focus for your own eyesight and the focus distance, the focus should remain
sharp as you change the magnification.
But if the cam tube is damaged, the image may shift out of focus.
The design shown in Fig. D12 uses gear
coupling to connect the master zoom

FIG. 010 Zoom tube removed.

CAM SLOT
ZOOMING
ELEMENT

\1-----\

CAM TUBES
OCULAR TUBES

",.

\ \~
"-

FIG. 011

Cam tubes removed from binoculars.

58/Z00M

BINOCULARS

_
CAM SLOT FOR
COMPENSATING
ELEMENT

COUPLING GEAR

SCALE FOR INTERPUPILLARY DISTANCE

FIXED
OCULA

RETAINING RING

FIG. 012

lOOM-LEVER RING

Underside of binoculars.
ZOOM
TUBE

tube to the slave zoom tube. The bottom shoulder of the zoom tube
in Fig. D13 is threaded-a large zoom-tube gear screws onto the
threaded shoulder.
The zoom-lever ring, Fig. DB, also screws over the threaded zoomtube shoulder-the
zoom-tube gear is under the zoom-lever ring in
Fig. D14. A retaining ring screws over the zoom-tube gear at the
bottom of the slave zoom tube, Fig. D14. The two intermediate gears,
Fig. D14 , engage the zoom-tube gears. And the coupling gear, Fig.
D 11, engages the two intermediate gears to complete the gear train.

THREADED
SHOULDER

lOOM-

IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII/~~~~

1IIIiWIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIMlIIlIIlIIlIIlII~;jJIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII~III1~

Moving the zoom lever turns the master zoom tube-the zoom-lever
ring connects directly to the master zoom tube. The zoom-tube gear
on the lower shoulder of the master zoom tube then turns the intermediate gear. Now the coupling gear, Fig. D11, turns the other intermediate gear to rotate the slave zoom tube.

lOOM-LEVER RING
(OR RETAINING RING)

FIG. 013

When you reassemble the binoculars, it's necessary to time the gears

RETAINING RING

FIG. 014 Underside of ocular assembly removed from binoculars.

ZOOM BINOCULARS/59

to one another. The positions of the cam tubes must

precisely match one another. You can see what would
happen if you had one ocular set as shown in Fig. D8A
and the other ocular set as shown in Fig. D8B. The
image from one ocular-the
one set to the position
shown in Fig. D8A-would
be larger than the other
image.

EYELENS

DISASSEMBLY OF THE OCULARS

You may be able to remove the ocular assembly together with the hinge pin in a rocker-arm arm design.
With a focus-knob design, you can unscrew the ocular
shaft from the focus knob. Both techniques retain the
gear timing.
But you may lose the timing if you remove the ocular
assembly from the rear end of the hinge pin-depending on the design. In Fig. DI9, the coupling gear stays
with the ocular assembly. In that case, you don't lose
the gear timing. However, if the coupling gear is loose
as in Fig. DU, you lose the timing between the two
cam tubes.

FIG. 015 Eyelens with eyecup removed.

SCREWHEAD

ON ZOOM TUBE

Unless you have to reach the rear porro prisms, you

may not have to remove the complete ocular assembly.
Let's say you just want to disassemble the fixed ocular
to reach the optics. First remove the rubber eyecupwith the binoculars shown in Fig. DI2, the rubber eyecup screws onto the ocular. In most binoculars, you
can simply lift off the rubber eyecup.
You can now see the two spanner holes in the eyelens
of the fixed ocular, Fig. D15. Since the eyelens is
threaded, you know that there's a good chance it's adjustable. Here a setscrew locks the eyelens in its adjusted position.
Loosen the setscrew at the outer circumference of the
fixed ocular. You can then unscrew the eyelens. On reassembly, it's necessary to reset the eyelens to the 0diopter position.

FIG. 016 Fixed ocular with eyelens

removed.
NOTCH

With the eyelens removed, you can see the end of the
cam tube, Fig. DI6. You've already seen that the slot in
the cam tube fits over a screwhead on the zoom ring.
So, as the zoom ring turns, the cam tube also turns.
Lift out the cam tube, Fig. D17. As you've already seen,
the zooming element and the compensating element
remain inside the cam tube. You can now see the guide
slot in the ocular tube, Fig. DI8 . The guide slot receives the screwheads on the zooming element and the
compensating element.
To replace the cam tube, line up the screwheads on the
two lens cells, Fig. D17. If you turn the two lens cells

601Z00M BINOCULARS

FIG. 017 Cam tube removed, set to

maximum power.

to the 15X position, the screwheads nearly line up with

the cam-tube notch, Fig. D17.

SCREWHEAD

ON ZOOM TUBE

Pass both screwheads tlu'ough the guide slot, Fig. D18,

as you seat the cam tube. Then turn the cam tube as
necessary until its notch fits over the zoom-tube screwhead, Fig. D16 . Use the same procedure to remove
and replace the carn tube in the fixed ocular.
As yet you haven't disturbed any timing. But, as mentioned earlier, you may disturb timing if you remove
the complete ocular assembly from the hinge pin. You
should therefore make some timing notes before disassembly-notes
you can use for reassembly reference.
With some zoom binoculars, it's difficult to install the
ocular assembly unless you first remove the cam tubes.
You may not be able to see the cam slots or the follower screws if you're trying to install the ocular assembly as a unit. However, with the cam tube removed
from the fixed ocular, you can note the timing.
First set the zoom lever to the maximum magnification-15X in this example. Then note the position of
the zoom-tube screwhead with respect to the guide slot,
Fig. D18. If you remove the ocular assembly, you now
know the reassembly position for the left-hand zoom
tube-the screwhead must be in the position shown in
Fig. D18 with the zoom lever set to 15X.
After you've replaced the ocular assembly-and
fore you replace the fixed-ocular cam tube-set

bethe

GUIDE SLOT

FIG. 018 Fixed ocular with carn tube

removed.

zoom lever to 15X. Then lift the fixed ocular slightly

away from the binocular body-far
enough to disengage the coupling gear from the zoom-tube gear. You
can now turn the zoom tube to set its position as shown
in Fig. D18.
You can often remove and install the ocular assembly
as a unit. Removing the ocular assembly together with
the hinge pin-or unscrewing the ocular arm from the

ZOOMLEVER
RING
(MASTER)

FIG. 019 Ocular assembly removed with cam tubes.

ZOOM BINOCULARS/61

FOCUS-LEVER

RING

o
CAM SLOT FOR ZOOMING

ELEMENT
CAM SLOT FOR
COMPENSATING

ELEMENT

FIG. 020 Cam tube installed in ocular, set to lowest magnification.

focus knob--normally retains the ocular timing. In Fig.

D19, we've removed the complete ocular assembly from
the rear end of the hinge pin. In these binoculars, the
coupling gear stays with the ocular assembly. No timing has then been lost.
With the ocular assembly removed, Fig. D19, you can
normally see the earn-tube slot for the compensating
element. But you can only see the bottom end of the
earn-tube slot for the zooming element, Fig. D20.
Position the screwhead for the zooming element at the
bottom of the earn slot. And position the screwhead for
the compensating element at the top of its earn slot,
Fig. D20. The zooming element and the compensating
element are now in the lowest-magnification position.
Now turn the zoom lever to the lowest-magnification
position. Feed the screwheads into the guide slots as
you seat the ocular assembly. Since the earn tubes were
not removed, you should not have to adjust the magnification of either ocular.
With the system shown in Fig. D18, there's only one
way you can adjust the magnification of one ocular to
match the other ocular-change
the gear timing. Fig.
D21 shows the earn tube from a similar geared system. But this system allows you to adjust the earn-tube
position without changing gear timing. Each earn tube
has six "fingers" on its top edge-three on each side,
Fig. D21. The fingers fit over tabs at the tops of the
zoom tubes, Fig. D22.

62/Z00M

BINOCULARS

SCREWHEAD
ON ZOOMING
ELEMENT

SCREWHEAD ON
COMPENSATING
ELEMENT

FIG. 021 Cam tube removed.

ZOOM TUBES

FIG. 022 Ocular end of binoculars with cam tubes removed.

Except for the coupling between the zoom tube and the
earn tube, the design is very similar to the first zoom
binoculars we described. The end of each zoom tube
screws into the zoom-tube gear, Fig. D24. The zoomlever ring on one side also screws onto the end of the
master zoom tube. On the other side, a retaining ring
screws onto the end of the slave zoom tube.
As you turn the zoom lever, the zoom-lever ring turns
the master zoom tube. The master zoom-tube gear connects to the slave zoom-tube gear through the gear train,
Fig. D26.
Both zoom tubes then turn as you move the focus lever. The zoom tubes rotate the earn tubes. The
screwheads on the movable lens groups, Fig. D23, pass
into fixed guide slots in the ocular sleeves, Fig. D22.
So, as the zoom tube turns, the lens groups move in or
out along the earn slots. Note again that the earn slots
run in opposite directions, Fig. D23-as the zooming
element moves to the back of the earn tube, the compensating element moves to the front of the earn tube.

to the front of the ocular (less magnification).

For example, suppose that the earn tube is seated as
shown in Fig. D25. If you lift and turn the earn tube in
one direction, the zooming element moves toward the
front of the binoculars-lower
magnification. If you
lift and turn the earn tube in the opposite direction, the
zooming element moves toward the back of the binoculars-higher
magnification.
As with other binocular repairs, it's best to remove only
one earn tube at a time. You can then use the other side
of the binoculars as your standard. Adjust the rotational
position of the earn tube on one side until the magnifi-

SCREWHEADS

To reach the tops of the earn tubes, remove the rubber

eyecups. Then unscrew the eyelenses. It's now possible
to lift out the earn tubes-or to change the rotational
positions to adjust the magnification.
Change the rotational position by lifting a earn tube
until its fingers clear the tabs on the zoom tube. Then
rotate the earn tube in one direction or the other. As
you rotate the earn tube, the movable lens cells change
position-the zooming element, Fig. D2S, moves closer
to the back of the ocular (more magnification) or closer

FIG. 023 Cam tube removed.

ZOOM BINOCULARS/63

cation matches the other side (your standard side). Later

in this section, we'll describe some methods you can
use to compare the magnification of the oculars.

ZOOM
TUBE

If you're going to lift out the cam tube, you might first
mark its adjusted position-marking
the adjustment
may save you a lot of time on reassembly. You can put
dabs of white paint on the tabs of the zoom tube, Fig.
D25, to mark the positions of the cam-tube fingers.
Then, on reassembly, align the two screwheads, Fig.
D23, with one another. Seat the cam tube, making sure
the two screwheads pass through the guide slot, Fig.
D22. Now turn the cam tube until its fingers align with
your paint marks. Seat the carn tube and screw on the
eyelens.
In some repairs, it may be necessary to remove the complete ocular assembly. Perhaps you want to reach the
ocular-side porro prisms for a collimation adjustment.
You can remove the ocular assembly together with the
carn tubes.

KNOB
/CONTROL

=t"0CULAR
ARM
ZOOM-TUBE

GEAR

"

~~!~M~

I """"'''''~'''"''''''''"~
ZOOM LEVER

FIG. 024

As with other binoculars, remove the ocular assembly

together with the hinge pin (rocker-arm design). Or
unscrew the ocular shaft from the focus knob (focusknob design). In some designs, it may be necessary to
remove the ocular arms from the rear end of the hinge
pin. With the binoculars shown in Fig. D22, you can
remove the ocular assembly from the rear end of the
hinge pin by taking out the center screw.
From the underside of the ocular assembly, you can
see the gears, Fig. D26. The large zoom-tube gears that
screw onto the bottoms of the zoom tubes aren't visible
in Fig. D26--one fits on the other side of the zoomlever ring, and the other fits on the other side of the
retaining ring, Fig. D26. Unlike the design shown earlier, the center coupling gear remains in place-removing the ocular assembly does not disturb gear timing.

CAM
TUBE

FIG. 025 Ocular with eyelens removed.

RETAINING

FIG. 026 Underside of ocular assembly.

64JZOOMBINOCULARS

RING

FIG. 027 Binoculars with ocular assembly removed.

Since you can adjust the position of each carn tube, the
gear timing may not seem so critical. However, if you
disturb the gear timing, your timing marks will no
longer be valid. Disturbing the gear timing will also
throw off the index dot for the magnification-the
index dot is on the retaining ring, Fig. D26.
You can now remove the rear prism covers. Unscrew
the ocular sleeves, Fig. D27. Remove the screws holding the prism covers. If the binoculars have a rubberlike covering, you may have to peel aside the rubber to
reach the prism-cover screw(s).

FIG. 028 The metal strap for coupling

the slave to the master.

OTHER COUPLING SYSTEMS

Gear coupling is the most common method of connecting the two oculars. But there are other systems. All
that's needed is a method of turning the slave zoom
tube when you turn the master zoom tube.
A cord or a flexible metal strap can also provide the
coupling. Fig. D28 shows a typical metal strap, a piece
of spring steel around 3mm wide and O.2mm thick.
One end of the metal strap hooks to a slot in the zoomlever ring (master); the other end hooks to a slot in the
retaining ring (slave).
The design is similar to the geared systems we've already described. The zoom-lever ring and the retaining
ring screw onto the lower ends of the zoom tubes. But
rather than gears connecting the master zoom tube to
the slave zoom tube, the metal strap provides the connection. The underside of each binocular arm has a channel for the metal strap, Fig. D29. When you assemble
the two ocular arms, the channel runs between the two
ocular openings, Fig. D30.

CHANNEL FOR METAL STRAP

FIG. 029

ZOOM BINOCULARS/65

The metal strap lies in the channel as shown in Fig.

D31. Slots in the retaining ring and the zoom-lever
ring fit over the bent ends of the metal strap. There's no
timing in this system-the
proper positioning of the
slave zoom tube depends on the length of the metal
strap.
You can remove the ocular assembly as a unit. Or you
can first remove the carn tubes. To remove the carn
tubes, unscrew the eyelenses. Typically, plastic clips
still hold the cam tubes in place-the plastic clips fit
over the top ends of the earn tubes. Remove the plastic
clips and lift out the carn tubes.
Remove the complete ocular assembly with the hinge
pin or by unscrewing the ocular shaft from the focus
knob. If you want to remove the ocular arms from the
ocular shaft, take off the IPO scale. There may be a
retaining ring or a screw under the IPO scale that holds
the ocular arms to the ocular shaft. But after removing
the retaining ring, you'll probably find that you still
can't lift off the ocular arms. It's necessary to first loosen
a setscrew at the hinge of one ocular arm.
The setscrew passes into the slot at the end of the ocular
shaft, Fig. 033. You'll see the purpose of the setscrew
and the ocular-shaft slot in a moment.

FIG. 030
METAL STRAP

FIG. 031
ZOOM-LEVER

RING
RETAINING

RING

With the ocular assembly removed, you can unscrew

the zoom tubes--one zoom tube screws into the zoomlever ring, and the other zoom tube screws into the retaining ring. You can now lift out the zoom-lever ring,
the retaining ring, and the metal strap.

FIG. 032
On reassembly, lay the metal strap in the
channel as shown in Fig. 031. Seat the
retaining ring with its slot over one end of
the metal strap. Seat the zoom-lever ring
with its slot over the other end of the metal
strap, Fig. D32. Then screw in the zoom
tubes from the opposite ends of the ocular assembly.
Turning the zoom-lever ring now moves
one zoom ring-the zoom ring that screws
into the zoom-lever ring. The metal strap
moves the retaining ring in the sarne direction. And the retaining ling turns the
other zoom tube-the
zoom tube that
screws into the retaining ring. The zoom
tubes turn the two carn tubes.

FIG. 033 Binoculars with ocular assembly

removed.

661Z00M BINOCULARS

You can now see the reason for the setscrew and the slot in the end of the ocular

CURVED WALL OF OCULAR-SHAFT

SLOT

FIG. 034

shaft, Fig. 033. When you replace the ocular arms, the
centers of the ocular arms fit over the slot in the ocular
shaft, Fig. 033. The wall inside the ocular-shaft slot
has a curved surface to route the metal band.
Fig. 034 shows the ocular shaft from the underside of
the ocular arms-a view you can't actually see with the
ocular arms in place. When you replace the setscrew,
the curved wall of the ocular-shaft slot and the end of
the setscrew form a channel for the metal strap--a channel that routes the center of the metal strap over the
ocular shaft. The metal strap follows the curve of the
ocular-shaft wall as you change the interpupillary distance by spreading the binocular sides.

REMOVING THE OCULAR TUBES

As with other binoculars, you may have to unscrew the
ocular tubes, Fig. 033, to take off the prism covers.
But unscrewing the ocular tubes may be more difficult
in zoom binoculars.
You'll find that the ocular tubes in zoom binoculars are
very tight. The ocular tubes in zoom binoculars have
the guide slots. It's therefore critical that the ocular tubes
don't work loose.
Remember that the guide slots prevent the movable

elements from rotating. The movable elements then

move in or out along the cam slots.
But if an ocular tube works loose, it turns with the cam
tube. The movable elements in that ocular then won't
move in or out. And the magnification won't change. If
you note that the magnification in one ocular changes
as you move the zoom lever-but the magnification in
the other ocular does not change, the ocular tube has
probably worked loose.
Yet, even though it takes quite a bit of torque to unscrew the ocular tube, you must be careful to avoid
damage. If you distort the ocular tube, the zooming
elements won't move freely. The zoom lever may then
bind. Or the magnification change in one ocular won't
match the magnification change in the other ocular.
You won't normally distort the metal ocular tubes with
your flexic1amp wrench. But zoom binoculars often use
plastic ocular tubes. And it's very easy to damage a
plastic ocular tube by squeezing the sides-even with
a flexic1amp wrench.
Clamp your flexiclamp on the base of the ocular tube
(rather than on the top). And try to avoid squeezing
together the sides of the ocular tube any more than necessary for a good grip.

ZOOM BINOCULARS/67

OTHER TYPES OF ZOOM BINOCULARS

The zoom binoculars we've covered all use variablepower oculars-that's
by far the most common type.
But some high-end binoculars use a different systema system that employs zoom lenses inside the binocular bodies.
BARREL

Fig. D35 shows a binocular style that uses roof-angle

prisms and internal zoom lenses. The zoom lenses are
in the barrels that fit inside the binocular tubes. Thrning the zoom control moves a threaded shaft that shifts
the movable optics inside each barrel.
As with the zoom oculars, a zooming group and a compensating group follow earn slots. The zooming group
changes the size of the image. And the compensating
group holds the focal point of the objective lens at the
same position.

ZOOM
KNOB

FOCUS
KNOB

CHECKING OCULAR TIMING

If you're in doubt about restoring the proper ocular timing, you may need way to compare image sizes. One
method is to make yourself a target like the one shown
in Fig. D36-a series of circles. It may take some experimentation in your own facility to determine the sizes
of the circles-depending
on how much room you can
allow.

FIG. 035

You can then position the binoculars at a distance that

allows one of the circles to fill the field of view. View
through the ocular you haven't disassembled as you set
the position of the binoculars.
Now, without changing your target distance, view
through the ocular you've repaired. Compare the image size-the number of circles you can see. As you
change the zoom setting, make sure the two oculars
cover the same field.

1 2

FIG. 036

681Z00M BINOCULARS

3 4

5 6

TANCE
T
E
RS
TANCE
RS
RIVER

PORRO
PRISM
VERNIER
CALIPER
SOFT-JAW
PLiER
SETSCREW
ROTATIONAL
ERROR
RETICLE
REAL IMAGE
PRISM
CLAMP
TUBE
ZOOM
TERRESTRIAL
TOTAL
ZOOMING
VARIFOCAL
LENS
INTERNAL
ELEMENT
LENS
TELESCOPE
REFLECTION
SPANNER
STRAP
WRENCH
WRENCH
SCREWDRIVER
ROOF-ANGLE
PRISM
ROCKER
ARM
RIGHT-ANGLE
PRISM
PRISM-ERECTING
REFRACTION
SYSTEM
6
SCREW,
CROSSPOINT
9
18
30
12
5
27
1
2
11
57
1 13, 16
55
4
20
19
16
56
2
13
10
1
15
32
7
21
26
53
9
8
8,55
23,42
5,25
12,30,46
4,22
4,11
4,27
4,25
4,26
22,37,48
37,38,41
15,38,54
34,45
7,27
4,24,31
22,47
11,
TELESCOPE
ZOOM
BINOCULARS

INDEX

69

ALII SERVICE NOTES

P.o. BOX 30871
Honolulu, HI 96820