SPST lighted rocker switch

Power cord set

Four #8 flat washers

AWG 20, stranded copper hook-up wire, red

AWG 20, stranded copper hook-up wire, rlack

AWG 20 solid tinned copper buss wire

Soldering station or 35-watt soldering iron

Soldering sponge

Diagonal pliers/wire cutters

Wire strippers

Needle-nose pliers

Screwdrivers

Hammer

Insulated bell wire staples

Heat shrink tubing

Hot air gun

Position the perfboard toward one end of the plywood base, leaving 1/2 inch of plywood
showing along the sides and end. Using a pencil or fine-point marker, mark the corner
hole on the plywood base. You will attach the perfboard to the base using these holes.
Mount the power transformer at the opposite end of the base, using the two #8-by-3/8inch wood screws, with the two black primary winding leads facing the end edge.
Turn on the soldering station or plug in the soldering iron and allow it to heat up. When
it's hot, clean the soldering iron tip by wiping it on the wet soldering sponge.
"Tin" the soldering iron tip by applying a fresh coating of rosin core solder. A properly
tinned iron will appear bright and silvery.
Mount the full-wave bridge rectifier toward one corner of the perfboard by inserting its
four leads through holes in the board. Position it about 3/4 inches in from the side and 1
inch in from the end of the circuit board. Secure the bridge to the board by soldering each
lead to the copper eyelet on the opposite side of the board.
Once soldered in place, trim the leads so that they project 1/4 inches above the solder
eyelet.
Make 90-degree bends in the leads on the axial-lead electrolytic capacitor and pass them
through two holes on the perfboard. Position the capacitor so that it's opposite the
rectifier bridge on the board. Secure it in place by soldering its leads to the eyelets just as
you did with the bridge.
Mount the three terminal voltage regulator centered, an inch or two in front of the
rectifier bridge and capacitor.

Using a fine-point permanent marker, mark the terminals of the rectifier bridge on the
solder side of the board. The two center connections are the AC terminals and may be
marked with "AC" or with a sine wave symbol (~). the outer two connections are the
positive and negative DC output terminals and marked with a (+) and a (-) sign on the
front of the bridge.
Using the fine-point marker, mark the three terminals on the solder side of the board for
the three-terminal voltage regulator IC (Integrated Circuit.) The terminals are numbered
1, 2 and 3, with 1 being the DC input terminal, 2 being the ground terminal and 3 being
the DC output terminal.
Cut two 24-inch-long pieces of hook-up wire for the output leads, one black piece and
one red piece, stripping 1/2 inches of insulation from their ends.
Using the tinned buss wire, create a circuit trace between the negative lead of the
capacitor and the negative bridge terminal.
Repeat Step 12 for the positive side of the circuit.
Using a short piece of red hook-up wire, connect the #1 terminal on the voltage regulator
to the positive buss wire.
Using a short piece of black hook-up wire, connect the #2 terminal to the negative buss.
Connect the red output lead to the #3 output terminal of the regulator and the black output
lead to the negative buss.
Solder the two yellow secondary leads coming from the transformer to the AC terminal
on the bridge.
Mount the circuit board on the wood base using the four #8-by-5/8-inch wood screws and
the four 3/8-inch-by-1-inch tubular standoffs.
Solder the two black transformer primary leads to the cord set leads. Insulate the joints
using the heat shrink tubing.