Contents

Introduction to Biomass and Biogas ....................................................................... 4

Types of biogas plants .......................................................................................... 13
Overall Guidelines for building Biogas Plants ........................................................ 22
How to build your own Biogas Power station ....................................................... 41
Step 1: Considering the plant size......................................................................... 41
Step 2: Choosing the Recipients ........................................................................... 44
Step 3: Other Components Needed ...................................................................... 47
Step 4: Adhesives Used ........................................................................................ 49
Step 5: Tools Required ......................................................................................... 50
Step 6: Arrangement of Gas Recipient .................................................................. 52
Step 7: Arrangement of Compacter Recipient ...................................................... 53
Step 8: Fixing the Feed Line to the Compacter Recipient ...................................... 54
Step 9: Fixing Dross Outlet Line with the Compacter Recipient ............................. 55
Step 10: Fixing the Guides over Compacter for the Movement of Gas Recipient .. 56
Step 11: Providing Guide Support on the Gas Recipient........................................ 58
Step 12: Arrangement of Gas Lines....................................................................... 59
Step 13: Fixing Gas Outlet from the Gas Recipient ................................................ 61
Step 14: Placing Recipient and Fixing Dross Outlet Line ........................................ 62
Step 15: Fixing the Waste Feed Line ..................................................................... 64
Step 16: Place the Gas Recipient and Finish .......................................................... 65
Step 17: Feeding the Biogas Power station for the First Time ............................... 66
Step 18: Gas Formation ........................................................................................ 68
Step 19: Type of Components, which can be used for feeding the Biogas Power
station .................................................................................................................. 69
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Step 20: Components unfit for Biogas Compacter ................................................ 71

Step 21: How Much to Feed? ............................................................................... 72
Step 22: A Vented Ram for Pushing down Larger Pieces and Agitating the Dross.. 74
Step 23: Biogas Boiler ........................................................................................... 76
Step 24: Attach Gas Line to Boiler ........................................................................ 78
Step 25: Add Ballast on Top of Gas Recipient........................................................ 79
Step 26: Test the Biogas ....................................................................................... 81
Step 27: The Digested Dross ................................................................................. 82
Conclusion ........................................................................................................... 83

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Introduction to Biomass and Biogas

Today, more and more pollution results from the poor

understanding and use of our planets resources. A steady
but decisive destruction of our environment is taking place
and there seems to be no end in sight for this problem.

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However, a solution has recently been discovered in the

use of biomass, also known as organic waste as a complete
resource for everyday energy that can be acquired within
the confines of your own home, through a simple DIY
project.

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The energy resulted from this action is called biomass

energy and is produced by wood, food dregs and even
agricultural residues. To be more precise, the term
biomass names the total multitude of carbohydrates and
other elements that are generated through photosynthesis
(starch, glucose, lipids, proteins, cellulose, hydrocarbons,
etc.), which are biomass compounds coming from plants,
industrial, agricultural as well as urban waste materials.

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The bad news is that very few individuals choose to take

advantage from the immense advantages that they have to
offer.

The good news is that our modern society produces a large

amount of these residues every day. In 2012, in the United
States alone, more than 250 million tons were generated.
It may seem like a lot of waste, but in the future, when we
are not able to use fossil fuels to create energy, biomass,
alongside the other alternative sources of energy may
prove to be the ideal solution to the problem of how to
best generate energy.

Here is how it works: without oxygen, the organic waste

(microorganisms)

decomposes;

transforms the material into biogas.

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thus,

the

bacteria

This result matter is high in methane, which can produce

large amounts of energy, and this fact has been known by
at least two centuries.

As previously discussed, biogas can be produced using

animal manure, which is rich in nutrients.

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To create biogas for electricity and heating purposes, you

need to remove the water from the biomass materials. For
most of its purposes, the carbon dioxide does not need to
be removed from the biogas; when intended for vehicle
use (i.e., fuel), then this action needs to take place.

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By controlling this action, you can transform the biogas

into an eco-friendly alternative that will produce heat and
electricity for your home. Moreover, by creating biomass
energy, the waste no longer pollutes the environment, by
being thrown away in landfills. Even so, the biomass
contained in the landfills, can be used to generate biogas.
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Therefore, the best way to save some money and help the
environment in the process is by building a biogas power
station within the confines of your home or backyard,
which will be fueled with the organic waste from your
kitchen and other natural sources.

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Types of biogas plants

The system through which the biomass is converted into
biogas is called a biogas digester that can be created using
either floating drum plants (characterized by a moving gasholder) or fixed dome plants (characterized by a fixed gas
holder that does not move at all). We will now review each
of these systems individually.

Floating dome plants

Floating drum plants

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The floating-drum plants are characterized by a moving

gas-holder and an underground digester. The gas
container is moved by the slurry (the mixture of animal
manure and water), in most cases. The fermenting slurry
results in a gas that is collected in the gas container.

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Depending on the quantity of the gas that is stored inside

it, the gas holder either moves or doesnt. The bigger the
amount of gas, the easier it will move around. But do not
worry; a frame is holding the gas holder from angling too
much in the wrong direction, by maintaining it in an upright
position.

A floating drum plant is used daily, as it processes the

human and animal manure. Middle sized farms use a
digester of up to 15 cubic meters. It is rather expensive, as
the drum is made out of steel. Another disadvantage is that
maintaining it in good conditions can prove to be quite a
hassle.

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Fixed dome plants

Fixed Dome Plants

Fixed dome plants have a life cycle of over 20 years and the
costs involved are not high at all. However, a lot of work is
required, which can also be translated as helping the local
economy, by creating jobs. If the job is sloppy and poorly
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done, then you might confront yourself with the risk of the
biogas leaking.

This type of plant can also be grown underneath the

ground, thus being safeguarded against bad weather
conditions. Even though the plant is grown underground,
the variations of temperature do not influence the biogasproducing process in any way.

Fixed Dome Plant: The Nicarao Design

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As you can see from the image above, a fixed dome plant
uses a dome shaped digester (made out of cement), in
which the gas is stored. When the production of gas is
initiated, the mixture of water and animal waste or any
other organic residues, also known as slurry, is conducted
to the compensating tank.

Cement dome

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The bigger the volume of the gas stored inside the tank,
the bigger the pressure. Providing that there are no cracks
in these domes, then the fixed dome plants can be as good
as the floating drum plants.

Among the advantages of the fixed dome plant are:

Simple architecture;
Low budget needed;
Little to no maintenance.

Disadvantages:
Gas is stored for short periods of time;
Even though the gas is unused, it must be ejected from
the digester, to avoid its destruction.

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Biogas plants are anaerobic (in the absence of oxygen)

digesters, in which the biomass (or the organic materials)
that contains many nitrogen based nutrients decompose
and generates biogas, which is a mixture of nitrogen,
methane gas and carbon dioxide.
The Biogas power station is composed of a special
compacter recipient. Here, the organic waste is kept and
the bacteria work on it to provide the gas.

The gas that is created is gathered in another recipient,

called gas collector. If this is a floating type model, the
recipient will have an oscillatory vertical movement,
influenced by the quantity of gas.

Waste is fed through feed line inside the compacter

recipient. The fully digested dross drains out through the

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outlet line. This can be collected, diluted and used as

fertilizer for power stations.

A gas line from the Gas collector recipient helps in using

the gas for cooking and lighting. Now let's get down to
business and construct a medium sized Biogas power
station for home use.

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Overall Guidelines for building Biogas Plants

Before following the step by step instructions, it is
recommended to consider these aspects:

Planning
Site evaluation ;
Plant size;
Technical drawing (consider the gas pipes, slurry tank,
etc.);
Location;
Materials:

Bricks
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Stones

Blocks for walls

Blocks for foundation

Sand

Gravel

Outlet and Inlet Pipes (2m diameter, PVC or Galvanised

Steel)
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Galvanized steel should be used for the exterior piping system,

whereas the PVC pipes should be used underground, as they are
prone to easy damaging. Even children can break these.

Sheet metal and angle irons

Gas pipes and fittings

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Sealants

Excavator

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Foundation slab

Digester masonry

Gas holder

Apart from all these materials, it is necessary for the

trained personnel to supervise the different construction
stages to ensure that the work procedures are followed
accordingly.

Please see below a list including the quantities of the

materials needed to build the biogas units, whilst
considering their size:

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The Digester

Gravel and cobbles should be used to fill up the 15 cm

cement foundation of the digester. In the center of the
digester place a pipe vertically, which will serve as a ruler,
giving you the necessary info on whether the digester is
symmetrical. Now, place another pipe, in a horizontal
position, and secure the vertical one on top of the
horizontal pipe.
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The cobbles that you use should be placed side by side, so

that it should result base as wide as 23-24 cm.

Specialists recommend gas tight concrete to be used for

the digester. Use sand and cement in the following ratio:
4:1. If you own a concrete container, and you wish to go
ahead with using that one, instead of building a new one,
then test it against any leakages, as possible cracks might
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have been formed. Perform the testing as soon as possible,

before initiating the biogas related procedures. It will be
much cheaper to detect any leakages and repair them at
this stage.

For even better results against gas leakage, waterproof the

cement plaster, using the following Tanzanian recipe:
1: cement-water coating;
2: cement to sand plaster (the ratio should be 1 to
2.5);
3: cement-water coating;
4: cement, sand coat, lime (the ratio should be 1 to 2.5
to 0.25);
5: cement-water coating with water-proofer;
6: cement (1) : sand coat (2.5) : lime (0.25) with sand
and water proofer;
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 7: screed mixture (cement+water) coated with waterproofer.

The Dome

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As you have gathered from the images above, you will have
to construct a round wall. When the height of the round
wall reaches 35 cm (preferably), install the pipe feeding the
human and animal waste (also known as the feedstock
inlet pipe). Try to place it vertically, as gravitation will work
its magic and you will not have to deal with blocked inlet
pipes.

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When building the dome, it is required to use a timber

frame, which you will remove at a later stage, after the
construction of the dome is finished.

The inlet pit

In this hole, the water and the organic residues will be

combined. Experts recommend that the height of these
pits should not be higher than 1m, from the ground up.

The outlet tank

To create the outlet tank, excavate at the back of the

manhole. Level the walls and floor and secure it using a
layer of cement. You also have to back the outlet tank
against plenty of soil, on the outside.

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Compost pits

Two compost pits are used to direct the slurry from the
digester into them. Why is it necessary? Because once the
waste has emitted the methane, there is no point in
keeping inside the plant, and it needs to be eliminated to
make room for other residues, which, in turn will generate

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gas, and therefore maintain the viability of the plant, by

constantly generating biogas.

Insulating the compost pits is necessary; securing it with a

layer of soil of 50 cm should do the trick. The slurry that
ends up in the compost pits can be used as fertilizers.

Pipes

As far as the gas pipes are concerned, insert those 30 cm

into the ground, in a sand bed, to be more precise. Make
sure that you avoid placing stones on top of the pipes. The
next step would be checking for leakages, to prevent
wasting the biogas. How can you do that? Fill the pipes
with air and then check for any possible leaks using soap
water for every pipe joint. If bubbles occur, then there is a
clear leak in the piping system.
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Although temperature variation may not pose a threat in

itself for the pipes, the condensation, produced as a result
of the different changes in temperature will block the gas
to leave the container, thus being transferred to the
desired location via the piping system.

To prevent this from happening, you should install either

manual (manual emptying) or automatic water traps
(automatic emptying).

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Automatic water trap:

Legend:
(1) T-joint in the
piping system,
(2) water column,
equal to max. gas
pressure + 30%
security,

Manual water trap:

(3) solid brick or

concrete casing,
(4) concrete lid,
(5) drainage.
Legend:
(1) T-joint,
(2) buffer storage
for condensated
water,
(3) manual tap,
(4) casing,
(5) concrete lid,
(6) drainage.

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Valves

The best valves you can rely on without a doubt are the
platinum plated ones. Although they may seem suitable
enough, the water valves are not to be used as gas valves,
because most of the times, they will prove not to be gas
tight. Your best choices are the cock or the ball valves,
which should be installed as shutoffs.

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Pumps

Usually, the electric pumps are needed to even the slurry

variances inside the biogas plant.

Rotary pumps:

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Rotary piston pump

Eccentric spiral pump

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How to build your own Biogas Power station

Step 1: Considering the plant size
The biogas unit is comprised of the following:
Inlet chamber (the place where the organic residues
go inside the biogas plant)
The digester
The dome
The outlet container
Compost pits

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A 4 cubic meter plant usually requires an average equal

amounts of feedstock and water (24 kg of manure and 24
liters of water).

A 20 cubic meter plant will require 120 kg and 120 l of

animal manure, respectively water.

These two main ingredients are blended together in the

inlet chamber. The resulting combination, the slurry, glides
into the digester, where is left fermenting. The slurry
separates into sludge and gas, which is collected in the
dome, whereas the sludge is collected into the outlet
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chamber. Ultimately, the dome is connected with the

outside world via the piping system.

Before pursuing this project, keep in mind that:

You will want to avoid polluting your nearby sources
of water; maintain a distance of 11 meters between
the plant and the water sources.
Start building the foundation of the plant four meters
away from any nearby constructions to prevent any
damage inflicted upon the other buildings.
Do not use long pipes; the longer the pipes, the more
joints causing potential leakages.
This goes without saying, close the valve after each
time you use the biomass gas. Avoid unwanted perils
and additional costs owed to operational errors.

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Step 2: Choosing the Recipients

Before selection of recipients, you need to consider how
much of digestible kitchen and garden waste I could collect
every day for feeding the recipient. In my case, I can easily
collect between 3.5 to 4 kilogram of waste from kitchen
and home garden.

This quantity will be sufficient for a biogas power station

with 700 to 800 liter volume compacter recipient. Since
only 750-liter volume recipients are available in the
market, I have selected a 750-liter recipient to be used as
the compacter.

A simple rule for biogas power station for home use is 5

kilograms of waste needs a 1000-liter volume compacter.
Now for the selection of a gas recipient, you need to
consider the following before buying the recipient:
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The model you will be building is with a floating type gas

recipient. That means the gas recipient will move up and
down based on the amount of gas inside.

Therefore, the gas recipient should fit inside the compacter

and should have minimum difference between their
widths, as this will reduce the loss of gas through the
edges.

During market search, I found that the 500 liters volume

recipient would meet the requirement, having a width
difference of about 100 mm that means 50 mm on each
side.

Therefore, I have decided to use the 500-liter recipient as

gas recipient, which will have an up-and-down movement
inside the compacter-using guides.
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Some designs cater for a water seal between the

compacter and gas recipient, but in my case that will
considerably reduce the volume of the compacter.

However, the gas loss through the edges will be very

insignificant with respect to providing a H2O seal and
reducing the volume of the compacter.

They are very good quality three layered recipients that

can withstand exposure to sunlight and acidic condition of
the dross inside.

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Step 3: Other Components Needed

In addition to the recipients, I have used the following PVC
parts:
PVC Door elbow 120 mm width one number to be
used for feeding waste
PVC line 50 mm width 300 mm long to be fitted with
compacter for dross outlet
PVC lines 32 mm width 250 mm long 4 pieces to be
fitted with compacter for guide scheme
PVC lines 32 mm width 1000 mm long 4 pieces for
guide scheme
PVC lines 12 mm width 1000 mm long 4 pieces for
guide scheme and stabilizing gas recipient
120 mm PVC line for waste feeding
PVC cap 120 mm width for the waste feed line

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 PVC line 50 mm width about 5 meters for the dross

outlet scheme
PVC bend 50 mm width one piece for the dross outlet
scheme
PVC 32 mm width threaded couplers 4 pieces to be
fitted with gas recipient for guide scheme
PVC 32 mm width plain couplers 4 pieces to be fitted
with compacter for guide scheme
PVC Elbow reducer 32 mm to 12 mm 4 pieces for the
guide scheme

The parts required for the Gas line are given separately in
Step 12.

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Step 4: Adhesives Used

For joining the parts of the gas power station, I have used
the following adhesives:
Araldite Epoxy Adhesive

M-Seal Epoxy Aggregate

PVC Solvent Cement

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Step 5: Tools Required

You can see here that construction of this power station
does not require many tools. This is a list of tools:
A hacksaw with frame

A single sided hacksaw blade

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 A sharp knife
A medium sized hammer
Set of spanners to tighten the gas line connectors

For crimping the connectors with the ends of gas lines, I

got assistance from the shop from where I bought the gas
lines. They helped me with their hand crimping equipment
as per my requirement.
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Step 6: Arrangement of Gas Recipient

The 500-litre volume recipient is required to be cut at the
top. The visible top ridge will be used as guideline to cut
the recipient

Using a sharp knife, make a hole along the line. Insert a

hacksaw blade and cut along the edge of the slot.

The hacksaw blade gets very warm. Wrap the end with a
piece of cloth. Cut through the ridge and clear the top cut
section from the recipient

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Step 7: Arrangement of Compacter Recipient

The top section of the compacter recipient also needs to
be cut and cleared. However, the cut should be just enough
to allow the free movement of the gas recipient. Place the
cleared top section of gas recipient on top of compacter
recipient

Leave about 20 mm on all edges and mark the guideline for

cutting. Utilizing a hacksaw, cut slots on top of projected
section of compacter recipient

Now use a hacksaw blade to cut along the guideline and

clear the top. Finish the cut edges with sand paper

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Step 8: Fixing the Feed Line to the Compacter

Recipient
The 120 mm width door elbow need to be fixed at the
bottom of the compacter recipient.
Place the elbow and mark the cutting line.
Make a hole along the line with a sharp knife.
Insert the hacksaw blade in the slot and cut along the
guideline.
Insert the elbow in place.
Seal with M-seal epoxy aggregate on both outer and
inner edges of the recipient.

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Step 9: Fixing Dross Outlet Line with the

Compacter Recipient
The 50 mm width 300 mm long, line is to be fitted at the
top of compacter for the dross outlet. Place the line on top
section of compacter recipient opposite to the feed line
and mark the cutting line.

Whilst using a sharp knife, cut along the guideline and clear
the cut piece.

Insert the dross outlet line and seal with M-seal epoxy
aggregate from both edges of the recipient.

You can cut and clear the extra projection inside recipient
if required. Otherwise, leave it as it is.

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Step 10: Fixing the Guides over Compacter for

the Movement of Gas Recipient
Some sort of guides is to be provided for the easy up-anddown movement of gas recipient. We will use the 250 mm
long 32 mm width lines for this.

Here are six projected sections on top of the compacter.

The dross outlet line and waste input line are in calibration
with two of them opposite to each other.

Letting these two, we will fix 32 mm lines on other four

projections. These lines will be extended after placing the
gas recipient. Place the 32 mm width line on top of
projections and make a mark.

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Using a hacksaw cut and clears a square section of the

marked area. Insert 32 mm width lines on all these cut
sections and fix with M-seal epoxy aggregate.

After the aggregate is cured cut and clear excess letting

about 25 mm projection.

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Step 11: Providing Guide Support on the Gas

Recipient
As we have previously seen, 4 guide lines of 32 mm width
have been provided at the top of the compacter.

In order to keep the gas recipient in calibration, we will

provide a sort of guide scheme on the edges of the gas
recipients.

Here we can use the 40 mm width threaded couplers for

this. Fix only two numbers opposite each other. We can fix
the other two once we place gas recipient inside the
compacter and observing the movement of gas recipient.

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Step 12: Arrangement of Gas Lines

I spent one full afternoon in purchasing and adjusting the
gas lines. Three sets of gas lines will be placed below the
gas recipient to the link line mounted on wall. Link line
between gas recipient line and kitchen from the link line to
the biogas boiler.

Parts required:
Three pieces of gas lines, all about 2.5 meters long
Ball valve 2 numbers one with gas outlet on gas
recipient and another with the end of link line
Bend 1 number over the gas recipient
Nipple 1 number over gas recipient
Adapter 1 number inside gas recipient joining nipple
with the bend

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 Three numbers of barbs with male threaded ends

crimped with clips at one end of lines
Two numbers of barbs with female ends crimped with
clips at other end of lines (One end of the line is left
free as this will connect with the boiler)
Inner and outer cleaners
One roll of Teflon tape
Few 12 mm size U-clamps for fixing the link line on the
wall

Right at the shop, I measured all the lines and used their
hand-crimping tool to crimp all the ends of lines. The lines
are tested for leakage by using soap water; if, after two
hours, bubbles appear, fix the leaking pipes.

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Step 13: Fixing Gas Outlet from the Gas Recipient

Put together all parts required for the gas outlet.
Utilizing a sharp knife, make a small gap at the center
of the Gas recipient. You can make a neat round gap
by just twisting the knife all around. This gap should
not be larger than the threaded section of the
accessories
Use suitable inner and outer cleaners at all joints. All
threads must be covered with Teflon tape.
Connect the gas line with the bend.
Connect the bend with the nipple.
Connect the nipple with the adapter inside the
recipient. Make sure all joints are tightened properly.
Provide a leak proof joint by applying epoxy resin over
the joint from outside and inside the recipient.

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Step 14: Placing Recipient and Fixing Dross Outlet

Line
Now we can move our compacter recipient to the desired
place. Select a site where, the unit gets more sunlight,
easier access for feeding waste and easy to clear the dross
and use it properly.

Here, I have positioned the unit on the terrace, where it

gets maximum sunlight throughout the day. I have also
provided a line from the biogas power station for easy
collection of dross down.

The kitchen is adjacent to the power station and the gas

line can reach it through the ventilator opening.

The couplers required for fixing guidelines for the gas

recipients also added at this point.
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Above the fixed 32 mm width lines, place the couplers and

lightly tap them down in place using a hammer.

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Step 15: Fixing the Stockfeed Feed Line

Clean the inner door elbow surface and the outer
bottom surface of 120 mm width waste feed line.
Apply PVC solvent cement over both the cleaned
surfaces.
Join them together before the solvent cement dries
out.
Place the cap on top of the feed line.

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Step 16: Place the Gas Recipient and Finish

Gently lift the gas recipient and place it over the compacter
recipient so that the 40 mm width guide couplers fixed on
the edges of the gas recipient stays over the 32 mm width
couplers on the compacter

Place one set of guide lines through the 40 mm width

coupler. Now our Biogas power station is ready.

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Step 17: Feeding the Biogas Power station for the

First Time
Initially you need to feed fresh cow dung to start the
action. On the day the power station was ready, I collected
about 11 kilograms of organic residues (dung) from a
nearby farm and another 20-kilogram the next day.

I went to a cattle farm again and collected 50 kilograms of

more cow dung. Now I have a total of 80 kilograms of cow
dung for initial feed.

I have mixed the 80 kilograms of cow dung with about 300

liters of H2O. I have also added about 250 grams of
country-made jiggery, which is a solid item created by
mixing coconut and palm sap, as well as sugarcane.

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The addition of jiggery will help the multiplication of

microorganisms at a faster rate.

This mixture was fed into the compacter through the feed
line. After feeding, clean the feed line and replace the cap.

Most of the water supplied through municipalities,

corporations is treated with chlorine. Do not use
chlorinated water, as this will kill all microorganisms. If you
have access to only chlorinated water, then keep the
required amount of H2O open to atmosphere overnight
and stir well, so that the chlorine evaporates.

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Step 18: Gas Formation

Gas formation will start after about two days of feeding the
compacter with cow dung dross. You will see that the gas
recipient started rising along the guidelines.

However, this gas contains lot of impurities and will not

burn. Moreover, there will be air present in the gas
recipient when you place it over the compacter.

Once the gas recipient is full, this gas will be released into
the atmosphere.

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Step 19: Type of Components, which can be used

for feeding the Biogas Power station
Once the gas formation starts, you can feed waste material
to the compacter. The following are some of the dregs
commonly available in a household:
Rotten vegetables
Vegetable peels
Fruit skins
Left-over spoiled food which are unfit for consumption
Very sour curd unfit for consumption
Over-fermented Dosa batter
Left-over vegetable oil
Grass and weed clippings
Dried flowers
Tender banana stems
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 Cattle waste like cow dung, goat's dung and poultry

waste
Coffee grounds and leftovers of tea leaves
H2O used for rinsing rice and pulses. You can use this
H2O for diluting the feed material

This list is endless... there are so many organic waste

components you can use in the anaerobic compacter.
Make sure you chop them into pieces as small as possible.

However, avoid certain parts given in the next step, which

are unfit for feeding the biogas power station. Remember,
food is precious. Do not waste food. Use only rotten food,
which is unfit for consumption

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Step 20: Components unfit for Biogas Compacter

Avoid following type of components in a biogas power
station:
Dry skins of Onion and Garlic
Eggshells
Fibrous components like coconut husk
Bones, raw or cooked

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Step 21: How Much to Feed...?

Once gas formation starts, you can start feeding the
compacter regularly with dregs from kitchen and home
garden. However, the big question is:

How much waste we can feed?

Here, the volume of my compacter is 750 liters. Therefore,
I will feed about 3500 to 4000 grams of waste in this power
station daily.

Why this much quantity only?

All solid dregs we feed into the compacter will take
between 30 to 50 days to be fully digested based on the
type of waste. For example, it takes an estimated one full
month for the cow dung to be fully digested and solid

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vegetable dregs may take 50 days. This is known as

Retention Time.

By adding the dregs in small batches every day, I will have

a regular supply of about 750 grams of gas after about 30
days. This will assist the dregs to be fully digested and
release optimum gas and be discharged through the dross
outlet line.

Over-feeding the compacter will drain out the partially

digested dregs, which will increase acidity of the dross in
the compacter as well as decrease the colony of
microorganisms working on the dregs. As a rule, for 1000liter volume compacter, feed approximately about 5000
grams of waste.

In addition, the solid dregs should be made into pieces as

small as possible.
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Step 22: A Vented Ram for Pushing down Larger

Pieces and Agitating the Dross
After feeding kitchen waste through the feed line, you may
find some larger pieces floating inside the feed line. I have
made a small vented ram utilizing some scrap material and
a one meter long 32 mm line.

This ram can be used inside the feeding line to push down
the pieces. The vents in the ram will allow the H2O to
penetrate it, which will ease the action of operating inside
the feed line.

Creating

frequent

ram

upwards

and

downwards

movements inside the feed line not only pushes down the
larger pieces, but it also agitates the dross inside the
compacter and help release the trapped gas.

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This will also break down the crust formed on top of the
dross surface and accelerate the fermenting process. Clean
the ram with clean H2O after every use.

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Step 23: Biogas Boiler

To use the biogas for cooking, you need a biogas boiler. I
got a new twin-burner biogas boiler. Normally, most
people use LPG at home.

If you look at the picture of the biogas burner, you can see
that the gaps are larger than that used in LPG boilers. The
nozzle of the burner also has a larger orifice. The biogas
boiler is created so that a double air quantity is combined
with the methane before being burned.

The specifications on the sticker say the tension required is

747 N/me, that is 747 Newtons per Square meter,
converted to 7.62 gf/cm2 (gram-force per square
centimeter).

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Each burner consumes roughly 450 liters of gas every hour,

when fully opened. In other words, a 500-liter gas filled
recipient, will be used by a burner in one hour or so.

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Step 24: Attach Gas Line to Boiler

In an earlier step, we prepared three sets of gas lines to be
used with the biogas power station. The first set of lines is
being fixed with the outlet from the gas recipient.

The second set will be used to link the gas line from the gas
recipient to the gas line fixed with the boiler. Here we use
the third set of gas line to be fixed with the boiler.

Attach the free end of gas line to the boiler. I have also used
a layer of insulation tap to seal the joint from any leakage.

The other end with the crimped attachment will connect

to the gas link line.

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Step 25: Add Ballast on Top of Gas Recipient

Before testing the biogas in the boiler, you need to check
that the collected gas in the recipient has enough tension
to flow through the gas line to the boiler.

Methane is lighter than air. When you connect the gas line
and open the gas outlet valve, there are chances of
negative tension at the line end, which may suck, in the
outside air into the recipient. This is known as Flow back.
This can be avoided by placing ballast on top of the gas
recipient.

Here I have added an old car tire with a semi-inflated tube

inside on top of the gas recipient. The semi-inflated tube
will prevent any rain H2O getting collected in the tire and
becoming a breeding ground for mosquitoes.

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After using the stabilizer (ballast), test the gas flow, by

opening the valve. You can also feel the gas flow by placing
your fingers in front of the valve opening.

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Step 26: Test the Biogas

The gas initially produced may contain many impurities and
will not burn. I emptied the gas recipient three times
before testing the gas.

Connect the gas inlet line and open the knob slightly. Now
you should hear the hissing noise of gas being released.
Light a match over the burner. If there is a flame, youve
followed the steps accordingly.

The gas still has many impurities, but it started burning.

You can see the blue flame of methane burning here.

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Step 27: The Digested Dross

Initially, I have added diluted cow dung dross, which
covered slightly more than half of the compacter recipient.
The periodical addition of about 3 to 4 kilograms kitchen
waste and weeds from the garden every day gradually
increased the dross level inside the compacter recipient.

Once your compacter is full, you will find the digested dross
oozing out of the outlet line, whenever you feed the power
station.

Place a bucket beneath the outlet and collect the dross.

This dross does not have any odor and will not attract any
flies. It is also an excellent organic fertilizer.

Dilute the dross with H2O and feed your garden power
stations with the diluted dross.
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Conclusion

It is that simple to create your own endless source of fuel,

right in your own backyard. Now, you will be able to
provide your home with the endless supply of fuel to
provide energy, and all this after following a DIY project.

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This biogas generator will save you important amounts of

money, while also keeping the environment clean and
more plentiful in resources.

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