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B 4.

CUTTING DEPARTMENT
B 4.1 Functioning

Fabric lots are issued to the Cutting Room by the Store in accordance with a weekly
production plan (prepared by production planners in the Okhla office) that lays down
the number of pieces of a particular style to be cut each day.
Before the spreading process, spreading table is covered with brown perforated
paper. The marker is prepared in advance using CAD software. This means the
marker length is known beforehand.
First, a single ply of fabric is spread over the brown paper. The length of this ply is
deliberately kept a little more than the marker length. The ply is cut off from the roll
and fixed to the perforated paper with cello-tape. This serves as a reference for the
spreaders to spread the remaining plies.
The spreading is done manually by the layer-man.
Now, subsequent plies are spread over this reference ply. Manually operated weights
are used to hold the plies in their place.
All data is recorded in the Cutting Details format by the spreaders. Apart from
entering the No. of Plies required to be cut, Style No., Type of Fabric, Color and
Layer Length, spreaders also note down the Lot No. /Roll No. of the roll from which
fabric is being spread.
If during spreading, a roll finishes off and the required number of plies has not yet
been spread, another roll has to be spread now. In this case, a sheet of tissue paper
equal to the length of the spread is put on it before unrolling a new roll. This is also
done whenever spreaders encounter a stitch in the roll (two smaller rolls are stitched
together to form a bigger roll). This helps in tracking down the precise roll from
which a particular part was cut in case part change is required (part change cannot be
done from any random roll as different rolls have shade variations between them).
No. of plies spread from each roll is also noted down in the Cutting Details format at
the time of spreading.
Remnant refers to the amount of fabric left in a roll after it has been spread
completely (e.g. a roll has 100 m of fabric in it and the lay length is 6 m. That means,
a maximum of 16 lays is possible from this roll as 100/6 = 16. So 4 m of fabric
remains after spreading is complete. This is noted as the remnant.).
Under Off Cuts, small quantities of fabric which are cut from the start or end of a
roll are noted.
After spreading is complete, the marker is put over the lay and fixed with cello-tape.
For woven fabrics, laser - guided automatic CAM cutter is used.
However, for knitted fabrics, the marker is first secured on the lay with a cello-tape
(always inserted away from the periphery of the pattern). Then the entire lay is cut
into rectangular blocks using straight knife machine. These cut blocks are then left
for relaxation for a certain amount of time (e.g. knit fabrics has to be left idle for
anywhere between 30 to 60 minutes before final cutting). Finally, precision cutting of
the patterns is done by band knife cutting machine.
Cut parts are stored size-wise on bakers trolley.

Cut parts are then issued to the Ticketing Section from the cutting section.
Pieces which are to be fused are sent to the fusing machine after ticketing process.
Often, while cutting, the pieces which are to be fused are not cut out individually but
as a block. This saves time during the fusing process. Once fusing is done, the
individual pieces are cut by using band knife machine.
Each sewing line was allotted a space below cutting tables for temporary storage of
cut pieces.
The cut parts are temporarily stored under the allotted sewing line name in which that
particular style is running.
Whenever cut parts are required by the sewing floor; the loader can directly pick up
the cut parts from their allotted lines. This helps to minimize the mixing of cut pieces
of various styles.

B 4.2 RFID Implementation in the cutting room


RFID system was implemented in the cutting room to track down various activities and
how much time is lapsed in a particular process within the cutting room. It was basically
used to track down the fabric (raw material) from the store to sewing (cut parts).
It provides a reliable platform for effective cross-departmental and intra-departmental
information delivery, handling and execution in real time. It collects and analyses cutting
data during the entire process (from spreading to fusing) on a real time basis. RFID
systems also traces the efficiency of each process, traces the performance of each job and
each workers. Most importantly it detects the source of the problem in real time. It shows
who is working for which job, fast resolution of bottlenecks and rapid tracing of quality
issues to their source. RFID system captures all the information through RFID terminals
and stores them in the database. Whatever report one needs can be displayed retrieving
data from the data source. Main components of the system are RFID software, computer,
RFID card, RFID reader/terminal to display information to the operator.
In real time RFID system, data is captured through scanning of RFID cards (tags) at
operator terminals (workstation). Types of tags are used in the line are employee card and
a job card.
Employee card: Employee cards are issued to operators and checkers. Operator uses
employee card to sign on at his/her workstation. If operator does not scan the employee
card, he/she would not be able to scan job cards at his/her terminal.
Job card: Job cards are used to assign jobs at the terminals. Job cards are also used for
special purposes. Normally, each terminal is pre-set with the operation/job that would be
performed by the operator. There may be possibility that operator had to do multiple jobs.
In that situation, operators use job card to change the operation in the terminal. Jobs cards
are labelled with job (operation) name and number. Operator scans the job card of the job
that will be performed by the operator.
The process flow of the system has been explained in the following:
1. Data preparation: Data preparation consists of task such as listing of operations for
the style (spreading, cutting, ticketing, embroidery etc.), assigning of SMV for each
operation. The SMV is calculated by the cutting SMV data bank. Listing of
employees, supervisors for the job is done.

2. Assigning job/operation to the terminal: In the line, each operator would perform
specific job. Prior to start of the work each employee punch their employee RFID
card on the terminal (workstation). Assigning of job can be done by using job cards
or entering job number to the terminal.
3. Scanning of cards at terminals: Each operator scans the IN-card before starting the
work. When operator finishes the work, he/she scans the OUT-card after ending the
work. Once operator scans the card, information will be stored and displayed to the
computer.
4. Viewing report: System records all transactions made by operators and supervisors.
System analyses the records and display reports on the pre-set format. Modification
of digital information can be possible by administrator. For example, system gives
report of individual operators efficiency. In order to calculate an operators
efficiency, system needs two types of information minutes produced by the operator
during the day and minutes operator spent or present (sign in) at his work.
The Functions and Features of the RFID system implementation in the cutting room are:
1. Real Time Data Capturing: The RFID cards are registered through the reader at every
workstation, so that the information for the start and end of each job can be
transmitted to the main server at real-time for storage, categorizing, tracing,
processing and analysing.
2. Real Time Monitoring: The system offers real-time visibility of the whole Work In
Progress production. Real-time information can be shared securely and conveniently
no matter where you are. Management can get access to the real-time data at
anywhere and anytime, so as to monitor the progress of each task, understand
employees individual working efficiency etc.
3. Work Place Control: The RFID device provides full traceability, thus enables
management to anticipate the time required for a specific task, and manage the floor
to ensure high performance. Identifies the causes for non-productive time instantly.
4. Remote Monitoring: It allows remote immediate visibility and monitoring to factory
performance no matter where you are through the internet or over local area
networks.
The application will automatically calculate and perform statistical analysis, sophisticated
management reports can be generated instantly like:
1. Operational Efficiency Analysis: In-depth analysis on working efficiency, production
output etc.
2. Workers NPT (Non-Productive Time) Analysis: Understands the causes and duration
for each down time. Helps in improving scheduling jobs.
B 4.2.1 RFID Process flow

Enter details from the


cutting format in the
realtek software( to
calculate SMV of each
job)
Employee card
punching by the
operator in the
leadtec terminal.

RFID job card slip printing


(it includes basic
information about the style
like style no., size etc.

Selection of job
card and
punching in the
leadtec terminal.

B 4.3 Department hierarchy

Punching In card
to start the job in
the leadtec
terminal

Stick RFID job card slip to


the RFID In and Out cards
and attach along with
cutting format.

Punching Out card


after the completion
of the job in the
leadtec teminal.

EXECUTIVE CUTTING
HEAD
Mr. Saurabh Sisodiya

CUTTING SUPERVISOR
Mr. Jagdish Prasad

CUTTING Q.A.
HEAD
Mr. Bhoginder Jha

RFID DATA
MANAGERS

CUTTING MASTER
Mr. Rajiv Kumar

ERP SOFTWARE
Mr. Jagdish Mehta
Mr. Kapil Dhania

CUTTING
ASSISTANT 1
Mr. SARAN SINGH

CUTTING ASSISTANT
2
Mr. Govind Kumar

REALTEK
SOFTWARE
Mr. Amit Shonak

CUTTING ASSISTANT
3
Mr. Avdesh kumar

RFID CARD
MAPPING
Mr. Vijay kumar

OPERATORS

LAYERMAN/CUTTERS
(13)

HELPERS
(16)

B 4.4 Cutting machines


Machine Type
Straight knife
Band knife
CAM
Fusing

Plotter

Manufacturer/Model no.
Eastman /Blue Streak II
Wastema/ SKU TexKnife 492
Assyst bullmer / PROCUT XL 7501
Shinko summi/SR-400
KMS-Mini fusing press/KCF-450 U
Kumsung Co.Ltd/ Fusemaster
POPJET 1800C

Quantity
5
1
1
1
1
1
1

B 4.5 CAM machine


This method provides the most accurate possible cutting, at high speed, and to keep the
larger systems fully occupied. The main elements of a computer-controlled cutting
system are table with a cutting surface consisting of nylon bristles, carriage and cutting
head.
B 4.5.1 Cutting parameters
Cutting Duration: Duration between the beginning and the end of the cutting process
except stops and loading times.
Loading Duration: Loading duration of cut fabrics to collection area and uncut
fabrics into cutting area. The ratio of this period must be 2-3% of the total duration.
Stop Duration: Represents total stop durations of cutter during the cutting process
and interruption periods of cutting process. An average of stop durations is 10% of
total time.
Total time: cutting durations +loading durations+ stop durations.
Cutting distance: It means the length of the total surroundings of the pieces on
marker plan.
Blank distance: The total movement distance of cutter head without cutting distance.
Maximum speed: It refers to the reachable highest speed of the cutter head during the
cutting process. Number of layers, fabric type and the height of vacuumed layers are
effective to determine the limit of this speed.
Average speed: The rate of the cutting path length to the cutting duration.
Sharpening distance: The sharpening distance period of worn knife during cutting
process.

B 4.6 Process Flow


RECEIVE FABRIC
FROM STORES

Width wise segregation/opening & relaxing for


knits/send for washing, if required

Master checks
marker plotter
as per grain/part
placement and
make changes if
needed.

MARKER &
PLOTTER REVIEW

SPREADING

QA checks layer
width/length and
record.

OK

CUTTING
(MANUAL/CAM/BAN
D KNIFE)

Cutter ensures every panel size


identification, plotter paper stick with
cello tape on the lay.

RECUTTING

CHECKI
NG
TICKETING
(STICKERING/STA
MP/
TEX MARKER)

If any type of block cutting is required


(in case of outsourcing for embroidery,
printing, beading etc.), numbering is
done at the unused corner.

FUSING

EMBROIDER
Y
Inspectio
n by Q.A.

RECUTTING

Check
Temp/pressure/
time by
thermostat
strip and
record, follow
in bulk
accordingly/dai
ly basis

STORING CUT PARTS IN THE SPACE ALLOTTED TO EACH LINE


UNDER THE TABLE.

B 4.7 CUTTING DEPARTMENT Q.A.


Quality check points followed regularly by cutting Q.A.:
a) Cutting Q.A. will check layer mark at the table before layering and record in the
register.
b) Plotter (marker) QA will check plotter/marker according to layer and make record.
If there is any shortage of layer length/width then inform to the cutting in-charge and
he should take corrective measures and is totally responsible for that.
c) For checked and striped fabrics, Q.A. will follow P.P. sample and P.P. meeting
comments about matching of checks and balancing of stripes.
d) If any discrepancies found in the layering/marking/cutting etc. Q.A. will inform
cutting in-charge and he should take corrective measures and is totally responsible
for that.
e) After cutting, Q.A. will check cutting from approved pattern signed by the authorized
personnel. If the pattern is not available, Q.A. will inform cutting in-charge/unit
head. For the same, cutting in-charge should collect those patterns from authorized
person and handed over to cutting Q.A.
Cutting Q.A. will check cutting from approved patterns
All the parts match from approved patterns
All the notches on its proper position
Randomly check same layer/same sticker no./all parts for colour variation.
If any problems are found after cutting, cutting Q.A. should inform cutting in-charge.
If any approval given by cutting in-charge/ unit head. Cutting Q.A. will take those
approval in written.
f) Spreading tolerance Length x width = 1cm
g) Cutting (checked against 2.5 AQL, Top, medium and bottom parts are checked)
tolerance = 1/8
h) Ticketing
i) Fusing
j) Brown paper allowance +10cm at both ends
k) Splicing allowance = +2 inches
Spreader- For good quality spreading, check the following:
a) Marker Placement: Be sure that the marker on top of the cut and the mark on the table
are the same.
b) Shading: Check of shading. Unless all parts are ply-marked, it is essential to have a
system to control shading. Spreader should spread rolls according to shade. If two
shades must be used in a spread, tissue paper should be used to separate the rolls.

c) Table Marks: Check that the table is marked carefully. Allow no minus tolerance for
splices.
d) Markers: Ensure that no makers are creased, damaged, or have overlapped parts.
e) Splices: After completion of the spread, check splice laps to see that both plies
extend past the marked splice by no less than inch and no more than 1 inch.
f) Narrow Goods: After the completion of a spread, check the far edge of the spread to
see that all the plies extend beyond the marker line.
g) Tension: Check tension during spreading. Important for knit fabrics.
h) Count: Check the count after completion of spreading and before cutting. Count all
plies at both ends. There is no tolerance.
i) Leaning: Check carefully to ensure that one edge of the fabric is square to the table
top. Visually inspect the alignment of the edge with the tabletop.
j) Defects: Any defects found must be reported and checked 100%. When sections of
fabric are removed due to flaws, it must be recorded.
k) Spreaders should also make sure that fabric defects are cut out of the rolls of fabric
before they are spread.
Cutting - For good quality cutting, check the following:
The quality analyzer should check each cutter at a 2.5 Accepted Quality Level (AQL)
based on the number of parts being cut. Following should be checked by the Quality
Control Inspector:
a) Miscut: Check for miscut, or the failure of the cutter to split the line. Tolerance is
1/8. Report all defects for miscut to the cutting supervisor.
b) Matching plies: Check the top ply with the bottom ply. Comply both with a hard
pattern or the paper marker. Comparison to a hard pattern is best. Tolerance is 1/8.
Report all defects to the cutting supervisor.
c) Ragged cutting: Check for ragged cutting according to the standards of your product.
This is a judgement defect. It is more important on critical parts. If the part has to be
re-cut, it is a defect.
d) Notches: Check the notch location by placing the pattern over the top ply. Tolerance
is 1/8. If the notch is more than the tolerance level, contact the cutting supervisor.
e) Pattern Check: Compare the pattern to the marker paper to ensure the maker is
correct. Make sure that the pattern is correctly spread and that it has no bias.
B 4.7.1 Acceptable Quality Level (Level 2.5)
Lot size or Batch size

Less than 151


151-280
281-500
501-1200

AQL 2.5
Sample Size

5
20
20
32

2.5
Accept
0
1
1
2

Reject
1
2
2
3

1201-3200
3201-10,000
10,001-35,000
35,001-1,50,000
1,50,001-5,00,000
5,00,001 and over

50
80
125
200
315

3
5
7
10
14

4
6
8
11
15

500

21

22

Note: Major defect is always major.


2 minor defects = 1 major defect.
For critical defects, the decision is taken as merit of individual basis and it is at the
direction of inspector based on severity of defects to satisfy himself before releasing
the material.
Any set will be considered as two pieces not one.