Through China With A Camera

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REESE LIBRARY
OK THK
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA
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No.
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THROUGH CHINA WITH A CAMERA.
LI8^
IK
'
UNIVERSITY
califorH\L
The Kwo-tze-keen,
or ISiational University.
THROUGH CHINA
WITH A CAMERA
BY
JOHN THOMSON,
F. R. G. S.
Author of
"The
Antiquities of Cambodia"
"Illustrations of China and its People" etc.
With nearly ioo

V-
Illustrations
OF THB
UNIVERSITY
WESTMINSTER
A.
CONSTABLES
1898
Co.
76^ f
INTRODUCTION.
Had
the
great
Venetian
traveller,
Marco
Polo, been able to
confirm by a series of photographs his story of the wonders of

Cathay,
upon
his
fame would have escaped the discredit cast

and indeed until comparatively recent
fair
centuries,
for
it
investigation confirmed his story.
Since the time when
examine
to
our to show
but
to
the
ancient
its
how
made my
cities,
journey into Cambodia
first
has been
it
may add
the explorer
permanent value of
my
constant endeav-
not only to the interest,
work by the use of photo-
his
graphy.
The camera has always been
the companion of
my
travels,
and has supplied the only accurate means of portraying objects
my
of interest along
Thus
in contact.
it
my
furnish readers of
of
my "bona
perienced
in
Some
reproduced
is
lost.
to
The
date
that
to share with
pictorial evidence
them the pleasure ex-
to face for the first time with the scenes
volume have been published
transformed
into
in a
more
photographs have been
printing
blocks
by a most
process, so that nothing in the original plates
letter-press has
and
came
far-off lands.
of this
and
have always been able to
In the present instance the
effective half-tone
up
and
coming face
parts
and the races with which
books with incontestable
fides",
and the people of

costly form.
route,
came about
in
been carefully revised and brought
part re-written.
have
kept myself "au
INTRODUCTION.
VIII
c ourant "
with
China
and
in
Chinese
appears
who
To
and
alone to follow their time-worn methods
left
my readers interested
my method of working.
the science
of
is
practically
photography
may add
my
its
chemistry, especially in a land where
unknown.
may
troubles are recounted in these pages, and
prove interesting to the amateur

rapid plates and films, and
with
retain
the
before
development.
hand the
in
negatives were taken by the wet collodion process, a
process most exacting in
Some
But
no well-defined
civilisation with its aggressive
those of
my
is
political.
a note on
All
there
be opposed to the genius of the people,
to
would be
fain
social
institutions
Western
change to place on record.

activities
of events in "Further Asia."
course
the
in
plate
explorer
its
who
after
latent
With such
ought to be
who works
making
image
plates
for
along the line of

his exposure,
may
an indefinite period
and
films ready to his
in a position to
produce work
of the highest artistic and scientific value.

I
Low
my
must here thank

and Marston, for
use of such matter as
January^ i8g8.
former publishers, Messrs. Sampson
their
courtesy in allowing
me
to
make
required for the present volume.

J.
Thomson.
CONTENTS.
Page
Chapter
[.
brief
Sketch of the Condition of China, Past
AND Present
II.
The Chinaman Abroad and At Home

Chinese Guilds Hongkong
Artists Music Halls.
,,
III.
North
floating population of
branch of the Pearl
52
of the two
Juilin,
of the
life
On
(continued).
fights Hak-kas The mystic

poor The Lohang-tang Bud-
board a junk.
Macao. Swatow. Chao-chow-
Fu
Amoy
The
charitable institutions of China
ol the
and wages
Governor-General
Kwang Clan
dhist monastic
Canton
Mode
Signboards Work
willow-pattern bridge
pills Dwellings
VI.
62
appearance Its population Streets
of transacting business
The
town Its
85
Macao Description
inhabitants Swatow Foreign settle-
ment Chao-chow-fu Swatow fan-painters Modellers

Chinese art^Village warfare Amoy The native
quarter Abodes of the poor Infanticide Manure-pits
Human remains in jars Lekin Romantic scenery
Ku-lang-su The foreign settlement.
34
river.
V. Canton (continued)
general
i8
Hong-
Canton and Kwang-tung Province

Tea Foreign Hongs and Houses Schroffing.
Its
,,
The Chinaman Abroad and At HouE(contmued).

kong
Native boats Shopkeepers
Gambling Typhoons The

IV.
CONTENTS.
Chapter
VII.
io6
Formosa
Takow
harbour,
navigation
Formosa La-mah-kai Difficulties
of
Tai-wan-fu The
How to cancel a state
Taotai His yamen

debt The Dutch in 1 66 1 Sylvan
Medical missions A journey to the interior

Old watercourses Broken land Hak-ka settlers Poahbe Pepohoan village Baksa valley The name
lanes
'Isla Formosa' A long march The

tainsBamboo bridges Pau-ah-liau
'
physician at
Interior
dance
of
work Ka-san-po
a
village
hut Pepohoan
central
moun-
village The
'
A wune-feast
A savage
dwellings
Savage hunting-grounds La-lung village Re-
turn journey.
,,
VIII.
FoOCHOW AND THE RiVER MiN
139
The Japanese in Formosa Cause of the invasion

The River Min Foochow Arsenal Chinese gunboats Foochow city and great bridge A City of the
dead Its inhabitants Beggars Thieves Lepers
Ku-shan Monastery The hermit Tea plantation on
Paeling hills Voyage up the Min Shui-kow An
up-country farm Captain Sheng and his spouse
Yen-ping city Sacrificing to the dead Shooting the

Yen-ping rapids A Native passenger-boat.
,,
IX. Shanghai. Ningpo.
Hankow. The Yangtsze.
Steam traffic in the China Sea

typhoon Shanghai Notes of
In
its
the
wake
early
of
history
Japanese raids Shanghai foreign settlement Paul

Shanghai city Ningpo Native
Sii, or 'Su-kwang-ki'
soldiers Snowy valley The Mountains Azaleas
The monastery of the Snowy Crevice The thousandfathom precipice Buddhist Monks The Yangtsze
Hankow The Upper

The great Tsing-tan
Kiang
Gorges
lights
Yangtsze, Ichang
rapid
dangerous disaster Kwei-fu Our return

its arsenal The death of Tsing-
Kiukiang Nanking;
kwo-fan
The
Mystic mountain
Chinese
superstition.
170
CONTENTS.
XI
Chapter X. Chefoo. Peking- Tientsin. The Great Wall.

The
219
The Yellow River Silk

forts The Peiho River Chi-
settlement
foreign
production
nese progress
Its
Taku
Floods
in Pei-chil-li Their effects

The Sisters' chapel Condition of the
people A midnight storm Tung-Chow Peking The
Tartar and Chinese divisions of the metropolis
roads, shops and people The foreign hotel Temple
and domestic architecture The Tsungli Yamen
Tientsin
Its
Prince
Kung and
the high officers of the empire
The Confucian Temple The

Observatory Ancient Chinese instruments Yang's
house Habits of the ladies Peking enamelling YuenMing-Yuen Remarkable cenotaph A Chinese army
Literary championship
Li-Hung-Chang The inn of 'Patriotic

The Great Wall The Ming tombs.
Perfection'
APPENDIX.
The Aboriginal Dialects
of Formosa
275
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
The Kwo-tze-keen
Frontispiece.
Facing page
Mandarin
in
2.
Civil
4-
Military Mandarin.
16.
24.
26.
or National University.
Official Chair.
Kowloon City, Mainland, opposite Hongkong.

The Kwang-tung Slipper-Boat.
Canton Boat-Girl and Chao-chow-fu Female.
Shop, Hongkong.
28. Chinese Curio

30.
32.
Chinese Houses, Hongkong.
venerable Student and Chinese Artist.
34- Street
Gambling.
36.
Cantonese Girl and Pepohoan
38.
Group
of Chinese Labourers,
Woman, Formosa.
Hongkong.
Sawyers and Chinese Pedlar.

Kwang-tung Province, China.
40. Chinese
42. Chinese Bridge,

48. Buddhist
52. Distant
54. In a
Monks.
View of Foreign Settlement, Canton.
Chinese Tea-Hong, Canton.
56.
Chinese Tea Dealers.
58.
Suburban Residents, Canton.
60. Schroffing Dollars.

62.
Female
Coiffure, Canton.
64. Garden, British Consular
Yamen= Canton.
66. Physic Street, Canton.
68.
Opium Smoking.
72. Reeling Silk.

74- a. Pun-shi-Cheng's
b.
>>
76.
Garden, Canton.
Pavilion in Pun-shi-C'heng's Garden, Canton.
Buddhist Monk.
OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
LIST
Facing page
80.
Buddhist Monks
at
Chess.
,,
,,
82. Chinese Pagoda,
,,
,,
86.
Macao.
,,
88.
Approach
,,
90. Bridge at Chao-chow-fu.
,,
96. Buddhist
,,
98.
104.
,,
,,
112. Chinese Garden-gateway.
Amoy
xiii
Kwang-tung Province.
to Buddhist
Temple, Macao.
Temple, Amoy.
Natives and Primitive Soldier.
Mountain Gorge, Island of Formosa.
,,
,,
116. Chinese Street Industries.
,,
134. Right
144. Native Herbalist
,,
146.
,,
,,
148. Chinese
,,
150.
Open
,,
152.
,,
156.
Szechuan Hermit and Lepers.

Yuen-fu Monastery, Fukien Province.
158.
bank of Lakoli river, Formosa.

and Natives, Fukien Province.
Foochow Female and Chinese Seamstress.
Tomb.
Altar of Heaven, Foochow.
The Morning
Bell
Yuen-fu Monastery, and Opium
Smoking.
Up-country Farm, Fukien Province.
Yen-Ping City, River Min.
,,
162.
,,
164. Rapids near
,,
168. Fishing with Cormorants,
,,
,,
and Knife Grinder.

and Chinese Coster.
182. Wayside Gambling.
172. Art Dealers
,,
192.
,,
202.
204. Mountain Scene, Province of
,,
Our Native House Boat, Upper Yangtsze.

My native Boat, Upper Yangtsze.
Hupeh.
Near the Mitan Gorge, Upper Yangtsze.
208. Mountain Scene, Szechuan.
206.
,,
,,
231. Night
,,
232. Street Scene in Peking, after rain.
,,
234. Chinese Coolies and Collector of Printed Scraps.
,,
236.
The Great
238.
Gateway
Watchman, Peking and Chinese Archer.
Bell,
Peking, and Native Plough.
in Imperial
Palace Wall, Peking,
XIV
LIST
OF ILLUSTRATIONS
Facing page 242. Travelling Cook and Chiropodist, Peking.

244. a. Chinese Coster and Manchu Tartar Lady.
b. Peking Peep-Show.
c. Marble Bridge, Peking.
,,
246. Pialo or Memorial Arch, Peking.
,,
,,
250. Military Mandarin.
252.
,,
254. Great Gateway,
,,
,,
256. Ancient Astronomical Instruments on the Wall
,,
258. .
Members
of the Tsungli Yamen, Peking.
Temple
of Confucius, Peking.
of Peking.
Manchu Tartar Lady and Manchu Lady and
Maid.
b.
Tartar
Lady and Maid.
,,
260. a. Native Actors. Bride and Bridegroom.
,,
262. a. Marble Bridge, Yuen-Ming- Yuen.
,,
264.
b.
Manchu Tartar Bride and Maid.
,,
,,
Bronze Temple, Yuen-Ming- Yuen.

Female compressed foot and natural foot, and
Sculptured Panel on Buddhist Cenotaph, Peking.
b. Wo-foh-sze Monastery, Yuen-Ming-Yuen.
266. Buddhist Temple, Yuen-Ming- Yuen.
,,
268. a. Sculptured Terrace, Yuen-Ming- Yuen.
,,
270. Chinese
,,
272. a.
b.
a.
Mongols and Native Litter, Nankow Pass.

Bronze Lion, Yuen-Ming- Yuen, and
Funeral Bannermen.
b.
Avenue
leading to the
Ming Tombs, North of
Peking.
b.
^~r
Temple
of Ching-tsoo,
Ming Tombs.
THROUGH CHINA WITH

OF THB
A CAMERA.
'
UNIVERSITY
CHAPTER
I.
A BRIEF SKETCH OF THE CONDITION OF CHINA, PAST AND PRESENT.
"The
them,
can
Chinese are so ancient in the world that
as
to
scarce be discovered."
wrapped
history.
It
as with great rivers

It
is
plies
have
reigned
fairly
in the obscurity that
fares with
origin of the Chinese
that Chinese history sup-
accurate record of the Kings and Emperors

the
for
of the
the
who
past four thousand years, and that their
annals, dealing with an earlier period are largely mythical.
primitive
is
preceded the dawn of authentic
by native scholars
held
it
whose source
over two centuries since this
is
by Le Comte, and the
was written
still
original,
their
The
sovereigns of the race are represented as the sources
wisdom and
probity, which are supposed to characterise
Government of the present day.
without influence
in
moulding the
They were
political
and
certainly not
social institutions
which have kept the Chinese together for so many centuries

independence
and
isolation.
The
in
cause, however, of the per-
manency of the Chinese Government,
in its
main outlines has
afforded ample scope for controversy to sinalogues and students

of history,
some affirming
that
it
is
solely
due to the principle
of paternal authority that forms the basis of the Chinese System,
while
others
attribute
followed in selecting
continuity
its
"
officials.
It
to the traditional
method
owing to a principle
solely
is
which the policy of every successive dynasty has practically

maintained, in a greater or less degree,
ment
men
consists
the advancement of
in
and power conferred by
only, to the rank
This
view
fucius,
who
proper
men.
Meadows supports by
Mr.
"Good
says:
Justice
highest exercise
its
is
on
the
of
posts."
government depends on obtaining
to
honour men of virtue and
is
right in the nature of things,
in
talent."
father
the works of Confucius
to be enduring,
must be based
universal obligation between "Sovereign
between
minister,
official
the authority of Con-
what
good government,
duties
good govern-
that
of talent and merit
is
But other maxims are not wanting

to prove that
viz.,
and son, between husband and
and
wife,
between elder brother and younger brother, and those belonging

to the intercourse of friends."^
the
persistency
attributed
to
patriarchal
Be
system
of
ferment
is
All
more causes than one,
system,
that as
well
as
as
to
it
some measure
in
the
may, the reader
government examination
one
official
distinguished
principle
to the
embodied
in
is
for
probably aware that the

civil
and military pre-
of the most ancient institutions of the Empire.
posts,
theoretically,
scholarship.
in the chief cities

tion,
would appear, therefore, that
the most accomplished scholars for the service of the
selecting
state.
It
of the Chinese system of government must be
are
open
Examinations
as
are
the
rewards of
periodically
held
of the Empire, and the subjects for examina-
and methods followed by the examiners, are practically the
Meadow's Notes on China.
Chinese Classics,
vol.
I,
page
103.
Prof. Legge.
LITERARY GRADUATES.
same
were two thousand years ago, with
this difference,
thorough scholarly acquaintance with the
classics takes
as they
that
now
first
the
while
rank,
sacred text-books
what
moral teaching of the
result of the
hardly recognised, and
is
is left
to the
conscience of the successful candidate for
elastic
These examinations
open
are
to
all
some-
office.
grades of society, excepting
the most depraved sections of the community, and those having
no recognised
On
social status.
the one democratic institution
the surface, this appears to be
of the country, but in
its
practical
operation proves no exception to the purely conservative basis
upon which
are
once
at
of
cut
when
for
the Imperial service,
from the people, and form a caste by
sole
interest lies in maintaining the ancient
Government,
the
selected
adrift
whose
themselves,
policy
Chinese institutions are reared.
all
graduates,
Literary
to the exclusion of such
the times, and foster the permanent interests of the
from
which
and
the
measures
and reform as would bring the country abreast of
of progress
they sprang.
examination-hall
The system
full
is
community
nevertheless popular,
of infinite possibilities, affording
a strong incentive to parents to educate their children, with the

result
the
that
Empire.
He
candidate
is
for
schoolmaster
is
found
in
every village in the
himself a student, an expectant, or unsuccessful
office,
who
is
treated with the honour befitting
the dignity of his position, and supported with
by the
villagers.
are wholly
illiterate,
class that our colonial settlements

class
"par
self-sacrifice
while the majority are too poor to procure
anything beyond elementary training.
the
much
Judging from personal experience, few Chinamen
excellence"
It
draw
showing
is
from
this
untutored
their supplies of labour,
capacity
and determi-
nation to adapt themselves to new* surroundings and to profit
the
methods
of
Western progress.
They
are
naturally
by
free
4
from
forced
than
is
It
and
in trade,
prejudice,
to
tillage,
accomplished followers of Confucius.
the
the
and
abroad
having been trained
latter
and
magnitude
great
these,
perchance,
move
either
own
their
in
forward,
that
from
far
China
in
It
is
within
foreign schools, have

lines,
the
In
the hands of such
destinies
of
men
which must
China,
or drift and be dismembered by powers
no
reassuring,
at the eleventh
would have
is
their descen-
control.
The experience
of the last
quarter of a century, and especially the results of the

are
one
country, commercial undertakings of
importance.
lie
which she has
over
which
humbler
launched successfully, on foreign
and
opulence
to
risen
this
ultimate regeneration of China, rather
knowledge that some of these emigrants and
dants,
as
the
for
cultured
"Uterati."
engaged
race,
look
to
to
my
the
of
section
Chinese
the
of
influence
retarding
the
characterises
last
war
and do not encourage the hope that
hour
will
to re-organise her
"set her house
in order."
She
whole system of administration, ex-
cepting her Imperial Maritime Customs under Foreign
Commis-
which might well serve as a model, or an honest foun-
sioners,
dation
upon which
regard
to
to rear the
new
fabric of government.
In
pressing necessity for reform of a drastic type,
the
may draw his own conclusions from a perusal of the

"Times" correspondence, or still more recent British
Consular Report, on "The Revenue and Expenditure of the
Chinese Empire." The political as well as the fiscal outlook
Will China
are there set down in the most sombre colours.
the reader
recent
face
the
position
remarked that
a
new tone
some
afford
it
is
it
boldly and at once?
takes
more than
native scholar once
a thousand years to introduce
Should
this estimate
into
the Chinese language.
clue
to
the ratio of political and social progress,
difficult to limit
the time required to cast off the chrysalis
MILITARY MANDARIN.
^^
OF THK
'^
UNIVERSITY
i^fLCALIFORj^
CHINESE PHILOSOPHY.
antiquity
of
the Empire
which
in
Signs of for-
shrouded.
is
ward movement, however, have not been wanting, but they are
applied
solely due to pressure from without, not unfrequently
There has been no spontaneous
at the point of the bayonet.
spent, and
advance. The efforts of the Chinese have been
exhausted,
their
resources
their
ancient institutions.
Colleges
and
chased,
have
these
have
implicit faith in
to
safeguard
and armaments pur-
fleet
wealth lavished on useless defences which
Empire
the
reluctant
endeavours
futile
been founded, a
and untold
left
in
Arsenals, Naval and Military Schools
at
the mercy of her foes.
Still
with
all
and costly innovations the Chinese to-day place

their time-worn methods of training for govern-
and military. The nine books of the Classics

Text-books, just as they were two thousand
Examination
are the
existence.
years ago, and on them they have staked their
Pythagoras,
Five of the books were written before the days of
ment
service, civil
immediate
and the remaining four compiled by Confucius and his
to
supposed
are
authors
the
tomes
sacred
these
In
disciples.
left to
have completed the circle of human knowledge, and
their
countrymen
a store
of
wisdom
sufficient
for
all
time.
conform to, and

All discoveries in Science and Art should
which were
sources
standards,
primitive
these
be tested by
glacial epoch of
frozen up during what may be termed the
Confucian philosophy stands
Chinese progress.
pole
that
to
of
mind,
ment.
the
It
is
and
Bacon,
cultivating the
is
if
useless for
modern
at the opposite
not inoperative as a means of

all
Great
work
Wall,
of
human
hedging
develop-
round the
The moral maxims
of
ignorance
and superstition of the
Confucius
"are excellent, but they have not made the Chinese
a moral people."
'
The
>
While
race.
his doctrine is full of faultless ethic-
Religions of the Chinese. Dr. Edkins.
6
teaching,
al
"He
the plea that

such."
He
'
of
accounts
passages
isolated
much
for
truth,
by
if
that
consequences of their
not
The
malfeasance.
official
have
Confucius
of
disciples
on
do not hear
Spirits
This touches upon a phase of national character
misdeeds.
which
concealment
enjoined
involved
called Pfoo,
at a place
was a forced oath, and the
also
was
interest
father or friend might escape the
means a
own
it
he had sworn
oath
teacher himself
that the
record
when personal
integrity
an
broke
on
placed
is
it
his
in
failed
cultured
by the few
profit
to
failed
which record the back-sliding of the Master,
while the scrupulous correctness of his conduct as a whole, and

of his moral teaching have had
excellence
moulding the character of

the
If
ancient
and probity,
not
are
outer
so
with
and
which
unfamiliar.
It
barbarians with
unsatisfying
the
is
all
in
and administration
revenue.
Foreign
policy
to
retain
as
The Chinese
of a
and native trade
practised
of the
official
quasi-financial
collection
mode
husk
in
Asiatic
presented to the
levying
which have brought
But foreigners
only sufferers by such methods of
gular
of
due ceremony, and which has proved
as to have led to reprisals
Governors enjoy
mainly
Chinese experience
their
polished
phase
presents
integrity
foreigners
wisdom
is
This outer sem-
and posturing.
China to the verge of bankruptcy.
vincial
or no effect in
little
followers.
modern Mandarin
of the
morality
virtue
of
character,
modern
of China were remarkable for
rulers
to polite phraseology
confined
blance
the
his
large
The
independence
part
of
alike suffer
and
are not the
procedure.
collecting
pro-
in the
the Imperial
from the
irre-
taxes.
The
provincial officials in dealing with the revenue
much
as
possible
Classics, vol.
I,
p.
for
local
is
expenditure, and to
loi. Prof. Legge.
SALARIES OF MANDARINS.
remit as
little as possible to Peking. Things are made to appear

what they are not; a considerable portion of the revenue never
finds
way into
down for
its
items set
pulated
many
the official returns, while
to leave a large residue in the pockets of the pro-
as
and their numerous retainers. For

some measure responsible, as the
vincial rulers
ment
in
is
Mandarins
of
merely
are
governor-general
elastic,
affording
habits.
It
is
ample
about equals the salary of a
scope
difficult,
Besides,
safeguarding
and
on
his administration
tenure of office
his
of predatory
exercise
from the oriental point of
of
system that
their intolerance of foreigners
The one branch
short, while
is
tolerates
this
state of
is,
as
have noticed, the Imperial Maritime Customs, under
direction of Sir Robert Hart.
ing
revenue.
while
irregular
and foreign intercourse.
of the Imperial service carried on with hon-
the
taels,
the
for
and,
corruption accounts in part for the native dread of innova-
official
esty
salaries
and prospective wants are immeasurable.
his present
tion,
Govern-
official
That, for example, of the
for the official to carry
impossible,
this the
supplementary allowances are indefinite and
indeed
with clean hands.
The
nominal.
province
of
city clerk, while his
view,
of the large
and naval expenditure are so mani-
military
This yields an ever increas-
The average annual

the
return
native Customs, with
imports, produce
about
is
over
many more
10,000,000 taels,
23,000,000
stations
and
an amount
which always remains about the same, irrespective of war, famine,
pestilence,
province
taels,
the
while
or
foreign
the
fluctuations
Customs
native
of trade.
collect
In
four
Customs returns from
stations less than half a million taels.
'
at
Far Eastern Question. Val Chirol.
'
the
Kwang-tung
ports 3,000,000
forty ports
and
The work accomplished
by the Foreign Commissioners has met with scant appreciation

at
the hands of the Chinese, and although
to
no reform
is
still
the
whether
in other
re-organising
purchase of a
In justice, however,
gain,
famed
are
army,
the
founding arsenals,
effort,
or
the
fleet.
it
ruling classes
men
in authority
honesty rather than for stores of
for
and men
must be recorded that the

There are exceptions
are not wholly corrupt.
who
Corruption
branches of the administration.
sapping the strength of every modern
rule,
in
supplies the most
it
of revenue of the Central Government, has led
item
important
the
like
ill-gotten
Viceroy of Hupeh and Yunan, Ching-
Chi-tung, who, in a patriotic attempt to benefit his country, squan-
dered
fortune
his
in
founding
gigantic
and
iron
which were to provide the railroad plant of a
The works were
to Peking.
managed
to be
line
steel
works,
from Hankow
entirely
by Chinese,
while the foreigner was to look on with mingled envy and apprehension.
But,
might have been foreseen, for lack of know-
as
ledge the project had to be abandoned.

this Viceroy,
so
it
was
said,
It
may be
noticed that
was not wholly unacquainted with
the promoters of the pseudo-republican rising in Formosa, which
gave the Japanese some trouble when they entered into possession
of
that
ago.
new
It
is
fleet
air,
is
too,
to be
is
to
war with Japan,
purchased,
and the Chinese navy
Commander Dundas, R.N.

by English and German officers.
this step
was taken, that a
suitable
will
be
accorded better treatment by the Chinese Government than
fell
guarantee
was obtained that the
to the lot of Captain Lang,
subordinate
of the
were a quarter of a century
officer.
be re-modelled
supposed before
to be
close
the
just as they
under a British
organised
The army
Since
island.
reforms are in the
to
the native
officers
in
question
who became simply a naval instructor,

who embraced every oppor-
officials,
CHINESE DEFENCES.
tunity of misapplying funds, supposed to be devoted to rendering

fleet
the
army,
set
yet
for their organisation
apart
yet to be purchased, and
fleet,
are to be of service, the funds
formed,
be
to
new
the
If
efficient.
the
and maintenance should be ad-
ministered by Europeans as a guarantee that they
Mîll
precaution
war
be taken, history
to
fail
What
prove.
will
the
this
itself,
as the next
army
of 600,000
before the war with
existed
an army sufficiently organised to require regular rations
Japan,
and payments. In travelling

of
have
to
repeat
become of
has
supposed
men,
fighting
will
be wholly
Should
applied to the purpose for which they are intended.
pay-sheets
over the country
all
any great
of
existence
the
military
saw no evidence
Apart from the
figures as a very formidable host.
it
the official
In
force.
numerical strength named, a considerable force does exist in the

together
brought
North,
and maintained by Li Hung Chang,
when Viceroy of Pechili.

The navy, before the war broke
hundred vessels of
This
boats.
be
fleet,
recreated
all
sorts,
which
great
at
does
cost
the
nor
entirely,
this
is
will
officers
probably
men
or
a matter, which does
Chinese mind.
do not know what the
do know that neither
crews
officers
trusted
But
exist,
before
Government, but
the
disturb
navy
now
not
and
cost,
can be trained for service.

not
numbered about one
out,
from sea-going ironclads to torpedo
were
after the
ever
fit
for
manner of
The Chinese
fighting.
their
last
ships,
renowned Chieftains
of ancient history, to the outward show of force, rather than to

force
it
is
itself,
to
costly
defeat
their
machine.
In
siderable part of the revenue
defence,
and
yet
in
order
foes.
the
is
to
As
for the
provinces
army, on paper
and
capital a con-
annually expended on this line of
make some show
of resistance
during the war, the force herded to the front was mainly from
lO
the
fields
men engaged
weapon more
in
formidable
hand, and
many
musket
in
trymen
for rations, until
who had never handled
tillage,
than
of
were
hoe,
them
raid their
left to
pushed forward,
own coun-
brought to the shambles on the battle-
or disbanded.
fields,
would suppose
one
Reform,
would begin, not
effective,
case
the
in
in wild
schemes
of China,
for
be
to
arming the the
defence of the very institutions which are the cause
Empire
in
of her
impotency, and of a system of corruption which would
render her land forces and
fleet useless in a struggle against
third-rate power, but begin with the
of administration must be
government
made worthy
any
The system
itself.
of respect, so as to be
supported by the patriotic endeavour of the whole nation.

This can never be the case
ment
as
figures
one
the
in
China so long as the govern-
in
rank of Asiatic despotisms, so
first
long as there are no railways, no public press, no pubUc opinion,
no modern
facilities
for intercourse,
development of great
the
been
forced
in
except what
by Treaty
concede
to
contained
clauses
and no encouragement
industries,
Treaty
the
of
stipulated
all
sorts
of
that
industries
and
Empire,
be
manufacturing
Tientsin,
Japanese
free
Great
Britain
the
in
stipulations,
notably
by
which
has
By
and
shall
cities
import
to
purposes.
subjects
the
all
Under
Article VI,
it
be free to engage
in
and
all
open
of
sorts
provisions
other
for
has
Shimonosaki,
thrown open some new ports to trade.

is
China
of
the
machinery
for
ports
of the Treaty of
powers under the most
favoured nation concessions, share in the benefits conferred upon

Japan.
as
she
of
the
China, indeed, has again been reluctantly thrust forward

direct
may
result of her
own
immobility.
But
in
order that
hold together, and voluntarily proceed along the path
progress,
it
is
essential
first
that
the
Government should
IMPERIAL MARITIME CUSTOMS.

conduct
affairs
its
For
honesty and discretion.
with
should be a central
there
this
end
administration, accountable for
fiscal
the whole income and expenditure of the Empire, and a Court

of Exchequer having a thoroughly experienced foreign Chancellor,
This would naturally lead to a com-
as a guarantee of efficiency.
plete revision of official salaries, which
remove the
to
as
necessity
would be so supplemented
peculation,
for
and would secure
the whole revenue for the purposes of the Government, measures
which would
once place China
at
enabling her not only

the
have
in a
all
the
sound
financial position,
liabilities
from
resulting
considerable surplus in reserve.
war, but to
estimated that from one-half to two-thirds of the revenue
late
is
It
meet
to
disappears
the
land,
tax
and
Other
the process of collection and transmission.
in
should
reforms
essential
to secure a proper adjustment of the land
order
in
proceeds accruing from that
legitimate
of the
return
such as a complete survey of
follow,
whole of the Customs under the

present Imperial Maritime Customs Commissioners would sweep
away the system of farming inland transit dues, and levying
source.
unification of the
imposts on foreign goods, by which they are so burdened
illegal
as to
The
become unsaleable
many
in
abolition of native collectorates
resources,
below
as
returns
from
collection.
actual
'
of the inland marts.
those
The
India
is
at
disadvantage,
burden of taxation borne

lighter
and
less
oppressive,
is
See British Consular Report.
while
Pari.
is
1897.
always
much
about one-fourth of
soil
at the
by the people under

and
total
internal
revenue of the Central
of India, although in area of productive
lation
are
quarters
entire
Government of China, roughly speaking,

that
The
would add greatly to the
and
in
popu-
same time the

British rule
is
not subject to fluctuations
12
from the necessity, caprice or avarice of local officials.

must be noted that the money paid to the central Government falls far short of the amount actually collected by the
arising
It
provincial authorities.
In India every facility
afforded for the development of the
is
resources of the country, and for the expansion of trade, by a
of railways and trade routes, and by the safeguarding
network
of the
no
for inland transport save
facilities
no
war,
late
by
China there are
and canal navi-
Chinese discovered to their cost during the
which the
gation,
In
river
the entire population.
of
interests
any commercial importance and no
of
railroads
roads worthy of the name. This in a land having boundless stores

of
wealth
economy
and
of
people,
its
their
of
rulers
can
products
of
boast
Mandarins
at
the
who add
to
their
in the case
their
peril
derive
sorts,
all
famed
a land
warmth and
people,
in
fuel
in
minute
from charcoal
undisturbed
are remarkable for their
food
waste
and an un-
for the
of
and
in
tillage,
country's
their
may
and
contempt,
of losing caste, and yet
utili-
while their
resources.
not
stoop
some there
are
wealth by a quasi-connection with trade, as
Hung Chang and
of Li
and who,
the
the
commerce
hold
trade
to
who
The people
feet.
waste
sation
Coy.,
and minerals of
stalks, while millions of tons of coal lie
millet
beneath
to
iron
coal,
in
supply of efficient labour
limited
while
foster
denouncing
the
the China
cultivation
of
Steam Navigation
opium
foreign
the
as
a curse
native drug for
profit.
Li Hung Chang has acquired great
by methods sanctioned by custom and best known to
individual
wealth
himself.
He
is
modern school
also not without
of
China,
from
fame as the figure-head of the
whom
better things were ex-
pected than the complete collapse of her armaments, for which

he
is
held
in
great measure responsible.
It
can hardly be
CHINESE DIPLOMACY.
expected that the Government
On
sides.
successfully
influence
so warily guide the helm of
beset their course on
which
and north-east,
north
the
will
shoals
the
clear
to
as
state
in
13
Russia,
who used
all
her
modifying the Treaty of Shimonosaki
and who guaranteed part of the indemnity exacted by Japan,

has not failed to advance her interests by obtaining a concession
to
an
Trans-Siberian
her
continue
tory
the seaboard
to
open
sea
at
The arrangement
seasons.
all
railway through Chinese terri-
there she will have a naval station with
temporary, but Russian diplomacy

its
may be
is
permanency. Along the coast of China the land
attack at
all
points, while
and ourselves are busily

ever
the
been
have
open to
work, contesting the right to widen
at
of influence, and to tap the trade
of two of the richest provinces of the Empire.

British
lies
on her south-western border the French
sphere
extending
ostensibly
safely left to secure
to another
treated
In this region the
example of bad
faith
in
the Chinese ceding territory to France, the small state of Maung

U, which by treaty stipulation was never to be transferred to a
third power. Negotiations regarding this double dealing have ter-
minated
satisfactorily,
and one important result
for British
commerce
has been secured in opening the western river of Kwang-tung to

trade.
By
this
Tongking
concession
as far as
guard her
interests
to Kun-lung ferry,
in
continuing
the
need
obtain a direct route to Kwangsi
we
France has permission to carry her railway from
and Yunan.
the
Liuchow
in
Kwangsi, but Britain
route
to a point
above the French
Mekong. Given these routes and a

not
neighbours,
chivalrous
dread
the
results
safe-
for
Empire
fair field
limit
for trade,
on
one
of the competition of our gallant
whose trading capacity

desire
may
by the completion of the Mandalay railway

whence little difficulty would be encountered
is
far outstripped
in the East.
There
is
by
their
no reason
14
why we
should not work
pense with our services

a
more intimate
other hand, the
in
in
harmony, as the French cannot
commerce, unless indeed, they
On the
relationship with our German rivals.
Germans have every reason to encourage French
be under-estimated
colonial expansion as a factor not to
curing
peace on their European borders.
letting
of the military
and
allayed
is
dis-
foster
power of the
It
latter,
is
in se-
a sort of blood-
by which war
fever
are spread over an extremely wide and
forces
unhealthy area.
Regarding
modern movement of China which had
the
defence
the
object
its
from
departures
her
conventional
time-honoured
and
institu-
was promoted by the Viceroy of Hupeh and Yunan,
tions
Ching-Chi-tung,
already
about six million
The
plant
mile
in
arsenal
trunk
fire
at
Hanyang.
railroad, half a
its
The
to the works.
soon after
its
completion, and
of this Chinese patriot had to be abandoned.
effort
not only to supply the Government with abundant,
munitions
produce
line
ruinous
erection, at a cost of
and arsenals
from the Yangtize Kiang
length,
up-to-date
by the
covered seventy acres, and had
He proposed
to
noticed,
dollars, of rolling mills
was destroyed by
the
finally
but
for
of the Empire, one of the most daring
the
of war,
plant,
manufactured
from Hankow to Peking.
failure
as
by
steel rails included,
natives
and
alone,
to build a
The scheme proved
had been predicted, Ching-Chi-tung having
determined to dispense with the help of European experts and
workmen,
his
own
object being to prove, once and for
China, alone and unaided could supply herself with

requisite to sustain her position as the
The money
from
private purse of Ching-Chi-tung,
possessed
of
all,
that
that
was
paramount power
Far East.
the
all
in the
required for this disastrous venture
how he came
such vast resources has not been revealed.
came
to be
His
THE TIENTSIN-PEKING RAILWAY.

venture
latest
framed on more modest
is
of a Mint at
Hankow;
Birmingham.
This institution
Canton Mint,
out
as
as
railway
the erection
possibly share the fate of the
will
the dollars never got into
but
coins,
two batches proved of
Small coins are
charms against malign
The
viz.,
the dies for the coinage were sent from
smaller
no
defective assay.
owing to
like value
struck,
still
and
market
find a
influences.
from Tientsin to Peking, constructed under the
direction
of H. E. Hsu, should be completed before this
sees
light.
the
to Peking
is
Syndicate
has
sterling
to
The more important trunk
still
in
abeyance.
secured
it
is
from
one would expect that
would be
built
work
Hankow
reported that a Belgian
be spent on the construction of the
as part security, and the
But
line
privilege of advancing
the
right to supply materials
railway
up some seven years ago, and which turned
set
and
dollars
circulation,
lines
and engineers. As the
^4,500,000
line,
and the
line is to figure
money is to be expended by Belgians,

much needed and long projected
this
forthwith and finished with
all
speed.
hope that the report may prove well-founded, and that the
Syndicate
may
ere
long
reap
daring and not unattended with
the
reward of an enterprise so
risk.
This loan
it
would appear
has been authorized by Imperial Edict, and the contract signed
by Ching-Chi-tung and Sheng Taoti
members
self a
of the Tsungli
Yamen
at
Wuchang,
also
by the
Peking. Sheng secured for him-
most unenviable reputation during the War, and has since
posed as
the
promoter of the Chinese Imperial Bank Scheme,
and financier of the Hankow-Peking railway.
It is
said that the
Belgians were not alone in their offer of capital for the enterprise,
but
small
that
that the Chinese
power without a
were
fleet.
fain to close with

It
is
Belgium, being a
quite possible, notwithstanding,
French and Russian financiers are not wholly uninterested
the
in
As
and
loan,
might
Belgium
in
the
left
to
that,
be
not
event
close this review of the position
misunderstanding,
of
singlehanded.
matters
settle
and prospects of China,
news has arrived of the opening of the West River of Canton,

and for this great boon to commerce we are in a great measure
indebted to the energy and diplomacy of Sir Claude Macdonald.
The opening
of
secured
foreign nations, and this
is
a step which
foreign
diplomacy.
on
alone,
ourselves
say
is
but for
all
truly characteristic of the
The opening
of this route
influence, not only
must have a far-reaching

but
trade,
for
may
of British
spirit
liberal
on the west branch of the Pearl
ports
the
been
not
has
river,
the future of this
part
on
of the Chinese
Empire. Steamers now run from Hongkong to Wu-Chau-fu three

times a week, carrying passengers and produce,
I
have
alluded
the
Nam
U,
Great
Maung
U, in the valley of
in violation of the
understanding with
to the cession of
France
to
This breach of
Britain.
faith
has been atoned for under
new Anglo-Chinese Convention ratified in Peking on June

By this agreement the Chinese cede to Great
Britain the Shan State of Kokang on the South of Yunan. The
the
5th
of this year.
appears to be in form triangular,
State
Shan
British
flows
through
thus
ferry,
the
Gold
is
its
and
opening
is
Yunan
its
centre,
base resting on the
its
apex piercing Yunan.
from the northern
The Salwin
limit to
Kun-lung
route from the ferry, a point to which
Mandalay railway
the
to
States,
will
frontier
soon be completed.
in a
straight line,
is
From Kun-lung
about sixty miles.
said to exist in the country, but the interior of
practically
tory has
unknown
been
added
Kokang
to Europeans. In addition, a small territo
the
ought to prove important, as
it
west of the
Swali river, which
points to a possible trade route
from Bahmo, by Kwitu, to the Shewli.
O
to
O
a,
u
c
o
o
'%
<^Se L'Ba^
OF THK
UNIVERSITY
s^LcaliforH^L
will
hope
late,
so
conclude
that China
this
PROSPECTS.
17
introductory
sketch by expressing the
may awake from
her lethargy before
it
is
too
and pursue a policy of progress and enlightenment,

and
banish for ever her antiquated usages and bring
herself
abreast
of
the
times.
The
great
trunk railway
most populous part of the Empire,

service,
breaking
not
the
only in
fetters
opening new
piercing the
prove of incalculable
fields for
of superstition
bound China and her people.
will
which
commerce, but
for centuries
in
have
CHAPTER
II.
THE CHINAMAN ABROAD AND AT HOME.
Guilds Hongkong
Chinese
Boats Shopkeepers -Artists Music
Native
Halls.
My
experience
native
their
was not wholly confined to
Chinese
the
of
China
travelling through
Before
land.
obtained
some knowledge of the people in the Straits of Malacca, Siam,

Cambodia and Cochin China. Although it forms no part of
my scheme to recount in detail my impressions of the Chinaman
abroad, yet a brief outline of his condition and prospects as one
him outside the
finds
reader in forming a
He
has
limits
of
own
his
land
without disaster to the
he
conclusion
is
fettered
despotic
is
not
political
without
by ancient
government.
and
social
tradition
His
he
must
find
the
sacred
light
career from birth to burial.
may not
and
the
books are
of his
He may
life
not,
like
diverge
system of his nation.
reason, as in his
antiquity in which are stored the tests of
there
assist the
been regarded as a non-progressive type, moving
a planet in an orbit of his own, from which he
The
may
estimate of his character and capacity.
fair
all
own country
stern
the
rule of a
classics
of
human knowledge
to guide
him
in his
and seemingly cannot,
CHINESE GUILDS.
conceive of the existence of a brighter and better philosophy,

where evolution and progress reign supreme. He is nevertheless
charged with latent energy and intelligence, which, as we shall see
only requires
change
of condition and fitting opportunities for
The Chinaman
their liberation.
more
seems to develop into something
confers,
longer chained to the
and high rewards
country, enjoying
liberal administration
like a
new
No
being.
he finds wide scope for his energies
soil,
for his industry.
honour and
of
positions
filling
own
out of his
the security and prosperity which a
In Singapore,
trust,
found him
member
figuring as a
of
the Legislative Council, as a contractor, builder, handicraftsman
and labourer, and so
full
indispensable
European
among
equal
at
times
to
get
when
too
out
practicable
formed
of their
members,
congsee,
or
into
has
efforts
to
shoulders.
the
monopolise
existing
people
peasantry
officials
in
unite
of
and
of the
tempts him
delight,
among themselves
trade
and
rule the
organisation,
drifts
from
semi-political
the
the
the
imitations
and
states,
of
so
and protection
The
government.
yoke which rested so

are
markets;
societies
purely
league,
power of petty
societies
commercial
more
than
by making
lightly
similar
on
its
institu-
every province of the Chinese Empire, where
combine to
and
commercial
off
of
thus
menaced
These
Chinamen
defiance of the local
in
guild,
cast
having indeed no
combination,
for themselves, for the rule
a semi-mercantile,
once
tions
all
strength
up laws
set
which
of
love
of each other as they possibly can, and
to
the
feeling
community,
the
His countrymen combine
far.
much
as
in
of resource as to render his services
But
Asiatics.
and unions
guilds
and
the
to
in clans
their
resist
government oppression, and the
and guilds to
employees,
social interests.
limit the
power of
and to promote
Such
their
local
own
societies are frequently
20
of
cause
the
men,
fighting
by looting and
live
but
them,
much
out
either
occasion
shall see
Government
or
unable
their
own
account."
Penang which
ruffians belonging to
an
down the faction fight. This sort of

when we reach the "Flowery Land",
put
to
on
it
in a village in
in the
unwilling
south of China has, at times,

to
class
of
friendly state
do
suppress.
upon the shore of a
This
unfortunately confine their attention to faction fights; they
gang
organise
if
is
required strong measures on the part of
it
immigrants cast
Chinese
not
we
as
Imperial
the
one
and
Government
and are paid so
any disturbance these people go

whether ordered by the head men or
there
on
clan,
warfare,
been
of ascertaining their
been sacked and burned by hired
opposing
the
know any means
a regular fighting people
If
for exer-
must have so many
say; perhaps they do
was present
had
don't
any excuse
for
or society,
parties;
looting
cannot
by an old
Each hoey,
are
month.
in
not,
They
numbers.
or
The SamChinese resident. "They
on the watch
are
cising their talents.
of
Sam-sings,
the
the interference of the police.
described
thus
are
sings
when
disturbances,
local
resist
robberies
victims
the
ever,
and the wealthier Chinese are
of their
rarely,
raids; they indeed enjoy an im-
which would appear unaccountable if we knew nothing

Chinese thieves are thorough experts at their
munity
of native guilds.
profession,
infamous
adopting
ends.
friend's house,
bedroom
and
when
burglary which took place at a
the thief found his
deliberately
fore he could get the

at last,
the most ingenious devices to attain their
recollect
lamp to
light
apartment,
not
into the principal
his patience
being rewarded
in the
plunder of the
he proceeded with equal coolness

forgetting
way
used up half a box of matches be-
to search beneath the pillow,
he secured a revolver and a watch.
where
These Chinese robbers are
CHINESE THIEVES.
reported
done
be
to
bed.
friend's
by the agency of the Chinese
to
who perhaps introduced

The Malays have told me
house
impregnated
have no doubt
where the cunning Chinese
averred,
of the
be
to
some aromatic
with
drug into
the
of
doorway
handful of rice
in a
This drug soon sends
drug.
the inmates off into deep repose, from which they seldom
till
in
complete
the
Chinese;
vulgar
and
for
must
prefer
The
their
which
style
you
suits the taste of
that they at
all
to
sound
booty and
surprises
and
make them
take
sudden
avoid
slightest
will
their garments,
queue
stuck
with
of
full
the
then
awake
lay
knob
The
side.
all
over and
back of the head and
the
at
in bed,
following adventure
About
with the lamp extinguished
windows open to admit the

the
against
the
apartment.
all
to be safe,
lieving
on every
needles
he
as
silhouetted
enter
into
Chinese burglar befel an acquaintance of mine.
midnight
and
coiled
any, in
if
But when they have a daring robbery
facilitate escape.
on hand they go quite naked, with the body oiled

the
times object
be the business they are pursuing,
possible
if
dropping
flight,
order to
tell
whatever
haste,
they
and deliberate
I
unexpected attacks.
to
awake
long after the robber has finished his undertaking, and that
the
to
my
they
as
cases,
thief passes the
and tosses
pillaged,
by using some
this was
victims
their
to themselves.
referred
case
the
in
house-servants,
stupify
to
able
known only
narcotic
21
sprang
out
of
air,
he saw a dark
sky, clamber over his
He
lay motionless,
till
window
figure,
rail
and
the intruder, be-
had reached the centre of the room, and

bed and seized him
both were powerful
men, and a furious struggle ensued, but the robber had the advantage, for his only covering was a coat of
slipping
like
an
a plunge at the
oil,
so that at
from the grasp of
his antagonist,
window and was about
to drop over,
eel
last,
made
when his
he
22
The
came
pursuer caught him by the queue.
and
les,
alas
false
one
too,
stuck
tail,
full
of need-
and was
away,
left
worthless trophy in the hands of the European.
The Chinese
guilds have
government of the
the
now
they are
China
is
parents
even
but
believe that
operates successfully in maintaining order
the superstitious reverence which the Chinese have
Should a son commit a crime and abscond,
for their parents.

his
source of trouble to
fruitful
Settlements,
well under control.
One element which

in
been a
Straits
are
liable
supposing
This law,
to be punished in his stead.
were put
it
a foreign land, would
in force in
not affect the immigrants, as they seldom bring their wives or

parents with them; and to this fact alone
of the
strong
much
attribute
ities
family ties held so sacred
few of the
and vice of
Chinese
women, but the majority remain
we may
own author-
this section of the
immigrants marry native
bachelors.
If
any one perchance
unable to realise the hope of returning to his native
is
if
the absence
is,
of the difficulty encountered by our
dealing with the crime
in
population.
that
by the race
he should die on foreign
of the
deceased
in
soil,
his friends
sending his body back to mingle with the
dust of his forefathers in China.

of
the
and
living
Straits Settlements
The
foregoing
the
character,
sujets"
presents
and some
engaging
evil
of
in
it
find a steady stream

fro
between the
left
somewhat sombre sketch of the
portrays
and applies
who have
Thus we
dead passing to and
and the southern provinces of China.
Chinaman abroad, but

his
village,
expend the savings
their
most
some of the worst phases of

particularly to the
"mauvais
country for their country's good,
them, embracing the opportunities afforded for
honest and remunerative labour, depart from their
ways and become useful members of the community.
On
CHINESE EMIGRANTS.
the
other
23
hand,
patient, orderly
there is a large and ever increasing

body of
and industrious labourers flowing southwards from
source, who meet with every inducement

to settle
undeveloped regions of Borneo, Sumatra and the
Malayan
Peninsula; these men not only engage in
tillage, but are the
the
parent
in the
most successful traders

have
established
islands
for
which
to
the
in
East.
themselves
our
foreign
The
mercantile
connections
commodities
in
are
almost
section
all
carried;
the
their
agents reside in Sumatra, Java, Borneo and on

the Indo-Chinese
mainland,
whom
collecting
they
are
produce by
not
barter
infrequently
with
related
by
the
natives,
to
social, as well as
commercial ties. In this way much of the

produce shipped
from the East passes through the hands of
Chinese middlemen,
or they forward
The
it
direct to their agents in
great majority of the Chinese
Europe and America.'
who emigrate
to the Straits
Settlements are natives of the island of Hainan,

or of the Kwangtang or Fukien provinces.
Should they intermarry with the
Malays, the children of such parents
assume the
acquire
the
language
of the
father
in
dress and
addition to an English
education in the Government schools.

training
deal
They also obtain commercial

under the compradors employed by European firms
to
directly
and the
with
result
the
of this
natives
is
in
buying and
selling
produce,
that a large percentage of the direct
trade has passed into the hands of

the Chinese.
They have
indeed adopted the philosophy of Bacon,
which differs from that
of
Plato
with
what
and
Confucius,
its
he requires while
sole
aim being "to provide man
he
continues to be man," while
that
of the Platonic and Chinese philosophy

was "to raise us
above vulgar wants." The aim of the Baconian
philosophy
was "to supply our vulgar wants," and this is the
far
business to
which the immigrant from
Cathay devotes
his energies,
when
24
from the guidance of
freed
and ended
words."
in
Having touched
saw them on
This spot, moored to our
little
the China Sea, and has
by an
peace and casting the
Christian
its
It
native
its
to be ashamed.
climate,
its
known
ducts are so well
but
shores
we
again
lucrative channels of
and
thrift
his placid
to impress the
fail
with
alien
solid
its
palatial
;
find
propose to deal.
the
Chinaman
Macaulay,
vol.
On
its
hos-
free to follow the
of labour. His industry, his
most casual observer.

buildings,
the
are
its
The
city of Victoria
magnificent esplanade and
handiwork of
this
much maligned
have been hewn and
no equal
in
fashi-
Eastern Asia.
with the Government, with the British architects
but
I,
geographical
contentment with his surroundings cannot
into a city that has
initiative lay
and designers,
The
mineral and material pro-
no comment at my hands,
some curious phases of life
present
his labour the island rocks
oned and reared
The
its
commerce and
granite
residences
by
mixed population,
as to require
population
and character, and with these

pitable
its
some
on the
Churches and Buddhist Temples, a Crown Colony
of the island,
position
alone
stands
noble European edifices and Chinese streets,
its
we have no reason
of which
influence
its
of a higher civilisation over
light
Flowery Land.
the
of
British rule,
beacon out of
by no means been without
fringe of the great continent of Asia, with

its
Hongkong.
electric cable that
Tartar dynasty from foundering, in maintaining
in preventing the
corners
their native soil in
island
rises like a political
sweeps half round the globe,
dark
words
in
on some points of character in the

I will now proceed to pass
lightly
review as
in
"which began
one finds them abroad,
Chinese as
them
his sages,
'
the
page
practical
399.
details
and
solid
work are
o
0)
a,
s
c
V^
OF THE
'^
UNIVERSITY
CALIFC^
HONGKONG.
Since 1843
Chinese.
population,
scum
the
to
hoisted our
flag,
caused by the influx of
has contributed
cities,
The
prosperity.
the progress of
no serious check, and the native
disturbances
despite local
of Chinese
general
its
when we
has experienced
colony
the
2$
in
no small degree
whom
natives, the best of
still
to their old superstitions, are in the mid-stage of evolution
clincr
inborn
their
dealing with
prejudice
up-to-date
against
methods of
foreign
crime and insubordination, and the not infrequent
waves of zymotic disease, such as cholera and the black plague,

They stubbornly
rouse them to most determined resistance.
refuse
a body, or as individuals.
as
sanitation
have examples much nearer home,
The
population in our large towns.
kong,
this
we
congested
Hong-
low-lying quarters of
where the poorest and most depraved
reside, present the
But of
in the centres of
Chinese
class of
most favourable conditions for the growth of

months of the year.
especially during the hot
zymotic disease,
Poverty, insufficient and unwholesome food, a humid atmosphere
and temperature over 90 deg.
in the shade,
account
in a great
measure for the frequent visits of cholera and the black plague.
These scourges of unsanitary humanity invariably

ravages to such localities as
and more cleanly
localities
these circumstances
educated Chinese,
of
and
sanitation
drastic
it
free
the
if
of disease;
not cleanly people.
exceptions
in dealing
unlettered
find,
Under
even among the
natives
they regard the
as utterly barbarous
among
and quite un-
There are of course
the old resident natives,
have learned wisdom by experience,
Government
from the disease.

to
rooted objection to our modern methods
operations enforced
notable
are
surprising
is
their
limit
have indicated, while the wealthier
our treatment
suited to a cultured,
many
Many
with their unruly countrymen.
have
who
and who have aided the
notion that
England
is
of
a small
26
on the borders of China, and that we as a people
settlement
are
wholly engaged
commerce with
in
and that
that Empire,
The floating
There are in Hongkong
population must not be overlooked.
waters many thousands of such people, who make their homes in
Hongkong
and earn
boats,
their
our
represents
upon the ships
possession.
greatest
by
their subsistence
fishing,
or attending
folk carefully study the
These
in the harbour.
indications of the weather, and can calculate with great shrewd-
the
ness
own
near
approach of a storm
they usually verify their
observations by ascertaining the barometrical changes from

ship-captains
foreign
their
own mind
and when they have
port,
in
that a
typhoon
is
at hand,
en masse^ and shelter in the bays of

the hurricane
is
past.
The men
in
Kowloon
until the fury of
the boats are naked to the
bronzed with constant exposure, but the
waist and
settled in
they cross the harbour
women are
Some of
decently clothed and are pretty and attractive-looking.
them,
if
features
we may judge by
and
their pale skins,
their finely
their large lustrous eyes are not of purely
formed
Chinese
blood.
The sedan
chair, in use all
over China by the
was the favourite mode of conveyance

remuneration to
a large
number
in
official classes,
Hongkong, and afforded
of stalwart coolies.
This has
by the jimricksha from Japan, a hand-cart on

wheels with a man motor between the shafts. The change is
not without significance, as the Japanese are destined by modes
been
replaced
less gentle,
paths
in a
if all
the
of progress
former work
conflict
more
sure,
hitherto
I
made
to drive their neighbours over
unexplored.
may
here note that
a fairly accurate forecast of the recent
between the Empires of China and Japan and
The jimricksha men, who

make it their study to find
take
the
place
its
issue.
of our cab-drivers,
out the habits of European residents,
<
o
'O
D
<
o
<
o
O
H
Z
f X'y
'
OF THE
UNIVERS:'
'
NATIVE SHOPKEEPERS.
so
that
the
hail
new-comer only requires
and
place,
either side will land
have
they
more,
him home, the
to take
vehicle
first
word spoken on
to be about a
week
in the
chances to one, should he dine out and
ten
is
it
27
him
something of
learned
and whether they ought to
trust
customary
coolie,
without a
Nay,
at his domicile.
his personal character,
him and accept the paper which
most transactions with the Chinese
he
offers.
to
pay them with an order on the Schrof, or Chinese cash-
keeper,
is
It
in
the house to which one belongs, and the Schrof in
of
honouring these cheques, whenever he has the opportunity,

discharge
debt
the
This
his employer's account.
Chinese
of
minute as
over
society
it
the
is
first
perfect in
is
Chinese shopkeepers
whole
the
one
class
man
speaking English
dark
crape
his attire
white
breeches,
and he displays
shoes,
Chinaman.
perous
all
His
and
apart,
himself, a
labelled
by
rolls
and priced
as
vie
silks,
with
each
carved ivory,
Kwangtung
gentle-
leggings
and velvet embroidered
the ponderosity and ease of a prosare
assistants
dressed with equal care

glass cases, the latter of
spotless polish and filled with curiosities.
occupied
is
a jacket of Shan-tung silk,
is
and stand behind ebony counters and
is
the keynote
Entering a Cantonese shop,
and paintings.
porcelain
welcomed by the proprietor
is
is
The system
land.
other in their display of costly wares, Canton

jewellery,
will
weight to
ramifications.
its
are
full
sample of the system-
and overreaching process which
squeezing
atic
and charge
dollars
light
in
One
side of the shop
of silk and samples of grass matting,
the floor above
is
all
taken up with a cleverly
arranged assortment of bronzes, porcelain, ebony furniture and

lacquered
their
the
ware.
race,
cheapest
These
generally
toy
with
men, as a
fair
as
in
their
great
rule, are fine
and
dealings,
politeness
as
if
specimens of
will
supply
receiving an
r^:C^sE
Lie z?^:^
UNIVERSITY
j^^CALIFORH^L
CHINESE ARTISTS.
as
ticular
kind of food they
the
to
29
eat,
but they are cleanly
modes of preparing it, and we might well learn some

valuable lessons from them in this branch of domestic economy
thus they are skilled in making palatable and nutritious dishes
their
in
out of odds and ends, and are far less wasteful and extravagant
A number of the best
in the use of their food than we are.
European vegetables are sold in the Hongkong market; beef,

mutton, fowls, eggs, fish and game are also to be procured at
prices which seldom exceed what we pay for the same comBesides, there are about
modities at home.
of
fruit,
Following
sign-boards,
style
and
one glowing
of
some Chinese
title
Some
list
of
ways are
tures
of
produce.
as
the
ears
and
in
bold
artist,
notes
the display of
letters with the
such as " Chin-Sing, porothers,
which make
and photographers of Hongkong.
painters
the
of
kinds
peculiar to China.
Roman
"Afong", "Ating" and many
the specimens of photographic art displayed in doorfairly
good, while others are the most hideous carica-
human
the
face that
Chinaman
to produce a
that
thoroughfare, one
each
trait painter",
up the
main
the
fifty different
them indigenous and
nearly half of
it
not
is
possible for the camera to
suffer himself to be
posed so
profile or three-quarter face, his reason being
must show him
portrait
that
will
his
round
face
is
to possess
two eyes and two
perfect as a
full
moon.
The
same observance of symmetry is carried out in the entire pose

of the figure the face too must be as nearly as possible devoid
of shadow, or if there be any shadow at all, it must be equal
;
on both
accident
sides.
Shadow they say should not
of nature
and therefore
should
exist,
it
is
an
not be portrayed, as
does not represent any feature of the face; and yet they all
of them carry fans in order to secure that very shade so essenit
tial
to existence in the south of China.
They
fail
to recognise
30
conjunction
in
that,
with
the visible appearance of
make up
exhibitions,
odical
therefore
adorned with paintings
apartment a number of
the
large coloured pictures
in oil,
The
and
at
in
search of patrons
of
carrying
wonderful land of
home
and
pigtails
among
one extremity
is
it
the foreign crews.
a souvenir of his visit to the
tea, supplies a
photograph of Poll
in
pound
sterling of our
many
like
mum
of
sketches,
fourth
another
The
is
lines
in this painting-shop,
so divided as to afford the maxi-
is
minimum
of labour.
Thus one
easel
and
is
himself from
fumes
is
of
he
long
opium
transfers
he
and
sleep,
peers
in the
his clothes are redolent of the
through
his
them
to the canvas,
then
to hand, until at last every detail has
pre-Raphaelite
placed
strange being the artist looks, he has just roused
large spectacles into
poor Susan's black eyes, and measures out her
hand
Susan
covered with a glass bearing the
and squares which solve the problem of proportion
large work.
artist
paints the face, a third does the hands, and
the costume and accessories.
in
fills
the
for
profit
The work
money.
things Chinese,
on the limner's
as
oils.
two days, and
to exceed the contract price of four dollars, or about one
not
framed and delivered
finished,
The
to scour the
or Susan, and orders a large copy to be executed in
whole to be
is
work, producing
from small imperfect photographs.
port
it
walls of Ating's
artists are at
desirous
in
Jack
or peri-
inspect their work,
an assistant, whose business
has
proprietor
ships
may
the studios.
visit
and minia-
They have no Academy
which one
in
necessary to
are
atelier
These desultory notes would be
to omit an account of the portrait
painters of the Colony.
ture
of
things animate and inanimate which
the Chinese Empire.
incomplete were
they are indebted to shade for
light,
all
exactitude,
she
fair
is
proportions
passed from
been produced with
and a glow of colour added to the
VENERABLE STUDENT.
CHINESE ARTIST.
Y^^
OF THK
UNIVERSITY
sf CALIfORti^
MUSIC HALLS.
whole
far
the
dress
and the
nor
gleaming with gems.
fingers,
of carmine
lips
and
as for the dress,
as
is
his
about
the
bunk, but
chains of
The
hair
and
it
shows neither spot

would
lover
say, as the
Jack proudly hangs the picture
he has his grave misgivings
at times,
still,
hands
small
her
taught,
robes of a figure-head.
above
feet
and about the rainbow-hued
goddess into which Susan has been transformed. Ating's
sailor's
miniature work on ivory
and
black, the skin pearly white, the cheeks of vermilion
wrinkle,
carved
us examine the finished
adorn the neck, there are bracelets on the
arms and rings on the

pitchy
let
sky blue, flounced with green
is
gold
brightest
is
But
surpassing nature.
The
picture.
commercial
copies
are
during
my
conducted on the same co-operative
is
and
lines,
decidedly better than
is
The
enlarged.
paintings
stay in the Colony
fell
in
when
always minute,
are
with only one
the
but
man who
could venture with any success beyond a mere servile imitation

of a
knew
him,
miniature
fond
painter,
frequenter
He
He was a sort of genius in his way, and at

most inveterate opium smoker; when I first
he was a good-looking dandy, in full work as a
photograph.
same time
the
of
of good
smoked opium
first
in
but this habit gained

the hour for the pipe
came
no
him
use
to rush off
and
of the drug, which soon brought
name
quarter of the town to which
"Tai Ping
braces
for
the
to
to his grave.
The lower
of
where he was, he had
matter
when
to such an extent, that
on,
living,
moderation,
upon him
abandon himself
company and high
and the gambling clubs of Victoria.
music-halls
is
the
the
fine
place;
it
Shan",
but
one,
is
or
a
inhabited
women, they
are
the
fine
Hill of
name
have alluded, em-
Great Peace.
will
The
not hide the sins
almost wholly by Chinamen; as
numerous enough, but of the lowest
32
There are strange hotels in this quarter, besides musicand lodging-houses, the haunts of vagabonds known to the
once accompanied an inspector of police on one of
I
poUce.
type.
halls
should
shrink
proved
to
of
from
me
that
everything
that has
all
region
this
describing
of darkness, and
saw there; but
it
been alleged of the immorality
of the native population
section
this
through
rounds
periodical
his
more respectable
On
perfectly true.
is
part of the
community
the
other
hand,
the
had
there
many
places of rational amusement, with which one
could find no fault whatever.
may
serve
entrance
the
there
stood an
the largest music-halls, one
To
crowned with votive
altar,
the right and
moral precepts were inscribed, sadly
high
character
real
the
of
place.
at variance with the
Half a dozen of the most
nating of the female singers were seated outside the gate
robes
were
elled,
and
dressed, in
of richly embroidered
their
some
with
spread
floor
all
bedecked with perfumed
hair
wings
on the
one
each
the
of the head.
top
furnished
some ready
attendance,
melodies
strangely
him wholly
of
and
flowers
cases, to represent a teapot, in others, a bird
bowl with opium, and others

sweet
their
were enam-
their faces
with
On
the ground
an opium couch and
the appliances for the use of the drug.
constant
the
silk,
fasci;
the available space was taken up with rows of narrow
compartments,
all
At
offer-
god of pleasure, whose image surmounted

left of this hung scrolls, on which
ings dedicated to the
the shrine.
Among
a type of the great majority of the others.
as
steps,
revel
to
waft
fascinating
their slave.
there
of
is
to
to
Here were
prepare
girls in
and charge the
strum upon the lute and sing
the sleeper off into dreamland, under

influences which, ere long, will
On
the
deserted
first
floor,
music-room
reached by a
make
flight
showing traces of
the preceding night, in faded garlands which
still
CHINESE HOUSES, HONGKONG.
MUSIC.
festooned
33
carved and gilded ceiling.
its
There were two more

them partitioned off in the same
At another house we visited we
stories to the edifice, both of
way
or
suspended
At a
of
We
under the
women,
had
as
many
of
is
was
such
at
whom
highly
he assured
melon
visitors
concubines.
the
panying
gatherings, a
fashionable
knew, informed
raised
was
Music
room by
the
but at the same
in a noisy,
the
in
That
Behind each
young
girl
silks of
sat;
Canton;
me
An old
Chinese
that these
might be the case
women
at
were not infrequently carried
that they
and
where,
seeds and pretty
with flowers, and their faces painted
respectable.
me
re-
claim to be called handsome, while
fairly
dressed
in bright
upon a dinner-party,
wine,
they resembled their native porcelain ware.
all
merry throng
small cups of the steaming
in
in
native
wreathed
ceiling,
round the board, and the
freely
were engaged
customary
prettily
hair
by the
of
delicacies, sat a
contest in the art of versification.
merchant present,
rate,
of
them might
were
were
and
middle-aged and old; hot wine
dropped
guests
the
from the
skill of Kwang-tung art had been

more permanent wall decorations.
passing
influence
friendly,
guest,
until
was
the interior had
of wattled twigs, while mirrors,
were pledging each other
draught.
their
the
the
young,
pots
vellers
time
all
on
table spread with fruits
Chinamen,
pewter
all
and
bestowed
music-saloon
flowers, festooned
made
baskets
in
gilding
lavishly
in the
decked with
freshly
paint,
floor.
goodly company
been
ground
the
as
found
to
the
off
of second wives or
rank
performed
being
any
in
the four corners
four independent female bands, each accom-
shrill
piping
voice
of
an old
woman, who sang
the adventures of a hero of romance, a personage famous alike

for his
prowess and
his ardent
and amorous heart.
CHAPTER
III.
THE CHINAMAN AT HOME AND ABROAD
Gambling Typhoons The
Floating Population of
{Continued).
Hongkong North Branch
of the Pearl River.
Gambling
is
phase
of Oriental vice to which the Chinese
pecuUarly addicted,
was at one time farmed by the

Government, but the ordinance was eventually suppressed. The
are
system,
licensing
and
during
short
its
career,
about
contributed
14,000 dollars a month to the Treasury, and judging from local
supposed to
besides,
native
who,
police,
seduced
continually
One
corruption.
the
aided
naturally
statistics,
the suppression of crime.
in
when
gambling-houses
secret
by bribes
into
dereliction
It
among
maintain a higher moral tone
was,
the
flourish, are
of
duty
and
of the difficulties in carrying out the plan was
conscientious
scruple, which, apparently,
even affected the
promoters of the measure, as to the application of a constantly

accumulating fund derived from a source so polluted. It was
even
with
suggested
All
it.
particular
Colony,
have
vice,
was
drop
to
would
in
it
say
silently into the sea

is,
if
and have done
the policy of sheltering this
order to effect a diminution of crime in the
sound,
the proceeds
been worthily employed
in
of the
gambling-farm might
rendering
the
police-force
Street Gambling.
V*^
OF TKF
UNIVERSITY
GAMBLING.
still
borne
more
by
the
government
lines,
the
and
efficient,
measures,
But,
will
the burden of taxation
lightening
in
colonists.
35
as
have no desire to
simply
state
that,
criticise
on the same
adopted of bringing disorderly houses under
policy
the direct supervision of the government
by
licensing,
had also
to be abandoned, although the results, as far as statistics show,
proved the wisdom of the measure.
During the time when gambling-houses were under supervision,

they became the open resort of most respectable-looking Chinese;
patterns one would suppose of native virtue.
prise,
when
It
took
me by
sur-
gaming-house, to find one or two native
visiting a
shopkeepers, otherwise noted for respectability, busily engrossed
The room
at the table.
and the
ceiling
in which I found them was nearly square,

had been pierced with an opening leading to the
next floor or gallery.
This gallery was
whom
of players, some of
a long table spread before
on
filled
with a silent party
were bending over, looking down upon

us.
close-shaven, placid
Chinaman
the
right
of the table acted as banker, and before
orderly
array
of coins and bank-notes were spread out on the
table.
It
was surprising to note the speed with which he reckoned
up the winnings and

seven-per-cent
behind
interest
on the smallest sums, deducting a
commission from the gains of every transaction;
him an
jewellery
him an
assistant
weighed the
dollars,
broken
silver
and
of the players, then at his side was the book-keeper,
and on the
left
the
teller.
On
the
centre of the table lay a
square pewter slab crossed with diagonal
lines,
and the sections
thus formed bore the numbers, one, two, three and four respec-
The player was at liberty to stake on any of these

numbers, when, unless he ventured on two numbers separately
and at once, he would have three to one against him, plus
tively.
seven per cent on
his
winnings should he succeed.
Some men
36
spend
the
account
day
entire
with
and on
house,
the
in
which
bank,
the
kept
is
pewter slab before them, and balanced
When
the
gallery
in
the vital
stolid, closely
are dropped from the upper
The
watched
who
teller,
of the business, sat there serene and
part
spite of his
in
seeming probity and hon-
sleeves were short, nearly up to his arm-pits
His
on a
close of the day.
at the
a small basket attached to a cord.
conducted
our.
some
stakes are made,
open an
starting,
carefully posted
before
him, on the table, lay a pile of polished cash, from this he took
placed
handful,
brass
and the
wand
proceeded
teller
pick
to
on
it
space and covered
clear
with a
it
After the stakes were made, the cup was removed,
cup.
out
the
being that which wins.
with
cash
the remaining
fours,
Before the
end of an ivory
extreme
the
in
pile
is
number
half counted, provided
there are no split coins or trickery in the game, a habitual player
can always
be,
and
tell,
with puzzling accuracy, what the remainder will
at this stage
of the
game one observes
the Chinese character.
mations,
no noisy excitement, no outbursts of
cursing of adverse
one
can see
on
carry
to
leaves
the
corners
their
condiments.
is
delight,
no deep
only in the faces of the players
hazards, until Fortune smiles once more, or
of
at the board.
is
streets
confined
to
by labourers
gaming-houses,
in the
it
is
highways and at
in their leisure
moments;
form a ring round a vendor of sweets and
will
cash
not
and private abodes,
in clubs
even children
stake
all
gambling
on
It
the signs of emotion, or the sullen determination

at
them beggared
Native
carried
fate.
a striking pecu-
There are no passionate excla-
liarity in
in
the attempt to win a double share of his
Lotteries
are
also
in great
vogue
in
China
at all
times; for these, tickets are sold on which a series of numbers

are
engrossed;
the
purchaser
pays
his cent
and marks ten of
^^
OF THT.
'
UNIVERSITY
A TYPHOON.
37
some secret process of his own he

The marked ticket is then paid in,
the numbers, those which by
lucky
the
as
selects
set.
and the holder receives a duplicate marked in the same way.

On the day of drawing, the numbers are supposed to be dealt
with
by a mystic being or
who
holds
numbers
is
darkness
back
gets
his
he
money
and he who holds the ten numbers gets back six thou-
in full,
sand times
gambling
banker not unfrequently pockets
This
stake.
his
cent as his profit for managing the lottery.
per
fifty
whose abode
spirit,
of the winning
three
a popular Chinese vice,
is
does not, so
it
Although
far as I
am
aware, meet with recognition from the Chinese Government, and

this
is
all
more astonishing
the
as
might be made to contri-
it
bute largely to the Imperial revenue.
have already noticed the floating population of Hongkong,
suffers great loss during the storms or ty-
community which
phoons
common
witness
one
typhoon, and
The
occasion.
than
thought
their
moorings,
with
canvas
broken
the
to
region.
I
force
possible.
and
torn
to
had long been anxious to
had
my
wish gratified on more than
of
the
wind
It
at
such times
is
more
whirls ships helplessly adrift from
have seen them emerge from the storm

spars
shreds,
carried
off nearly flush with the deck.
In
away,
and
masts
Hongkong, the wind,
with a sudden blast, has riven roofs from houses and blown them
inland,
far
and has sent
randahs flying across the

at
its
height,
solid brick corners

streets.
ventured down to the Praya,
crowd of Chinese boats and

inshore
the
and
piled
up
in
and projecting ve-
Once while
the tempest was
in
sailing craft that
time to see the
had been blown
mass of wreck below the
western end of the beach.
One
had been there and had rescued a large number of the

but
many more had gone down
city,
at
or two intrepid foreigners
with their boats.
natives,
The sky was
38
dark and leaden, and there were moments when the wind abated
only to gather fresh violence, catching up the crested waves and
sending them
from
in long
which
through
white streaks of vapour across the scene,
dismantled
any emergency.
were dimly descried,
ships
drifting
and steamers with steam up, ready
moorings,
their
for
as they leapt over the
by the waves
Blinded
road and dashed against the houses, and lying forward on the
wind,
from
length reached the east end of the Praya, joining a
at
number of
Chinese boat.
small
who were attempting to rescue two women

These women, seemingly greatly
foreigners
exhausted,
were putting
tiny vessel
in
against
pieces
the
Advantage was
but
were
these
wrecked
of
driven
crew were
gallant
keep
their
from being dashed to
it
to
set
the
against the houses
but the
pier,
met with a
in the
like
Every
the sea.
into
wall.
to fire off line-rockets,
lull
like feathers,
the second
pitched
efforts to
last
jagged blocks of the Praya

slight
back
and as darkness
abortive,
dragged
launching,
in
their
dislodged,
taken
long-boats were
then
forth
position and to prevent
poor
was
first
fate
and
effort
women were
its
proved
reluc-
tantly left to their fate.
The Chinese
as
found
them
paternal Government, proved in
from
fellow-countrymen
their
at
some
home, under
their
own
material respects different
abroad.
The
engaged
in
manual labour of some
cause of
its
lucrative nature, but because
sort,
large majority are
chiefly tillage, not be-
Mother Earth was the
only friend they could trust to yield them subsistence for labour.
Their
his
rulers,
crafty
otherwise,
represented to them by the nearest Mandarin and
Yamen-runners, collectors of revenue, legitimate and

could
be
trusted
only to gather their spoil.
They
were the far-reaching antennae of the Government, trained to a

degree of scientific nicety to leave blood enough in the body of
to
t/3
w-
a
p
NORTH BRANCH OF THE PEARL

the
husbandman,
patient
enable
to
continue his
to
But some seasons the crops
local treasury.
39
own modest wants and
without fainting, to supply his
fail,
to
toil
fill
the
and the farmers
no resource whatever, perish in multitudes, of famine

In some of the Western provinces, the people,
having
and
him
RIVER.
disease.
noted
for
and
classes
independence,
their
live
merchants
also applies to the
by the
extortion
at the ports
ruling
This limitation
open to foreign trade
them amass wealth and enjoy the protection of the

authorities, who, some of them, have money profitably
many
of
local
invested
officials,
not
resist
comfort and even affluence.
in
commercial
native
in
enterprises.
The bulk
of the
however, while they view commerce with contempt, do
scruple
extortionate
levy
to
exactions
on
trade,
and to
accept bribes to condone offences against the law, even to the

extent of permitting a criminal to procure a substitute to suffer
punishment
capital
My
north
first
in his stead.
excursion
branch
China proper was an ascent of the
into
of the Pearl
by three Hongkong
'
river
residents.
of Kwang-tung, accompanied
This northern affluent joins the
"San
Shui," or Three Waters,
main
stream
lying
above Canton, about forty miles inland.
at
point
called
To
reach
it
we
must pass through the Fatshan Creek, where Commodore Keppel

fought his famous action in 1857.
a mile in length
is
it
The town
of Fatshan exceeds
the Creek passes right through
its
centre,
and
the nucleus of the great manufacturing districts of Southern
China. Cutlery and hardware are the two chief industries, hence
said to be the Sheffield of Cathay.
is
after
appeared strange to
examining the native wares, that similar
English
'
It
make had done
so
Meadow's Notes on China.
little
it
me
articles of superior
to supplant the industry of the
40
Fatshan
This
factories.
partly caused
is
Chinese labour and the suitableness of the
by the cheapness of
manufactured
articles
to local popular requirements. Chinese scissors, for example, are
quite
from
different
those
use with us, and
in
if
we were
to
attempt to cut with them, we should be apt to tear the cloth.
hands of a native
In the
and indeed
The
own.
use
has
used
iron
although
abroad,
in
they are
the
this
But
to
work wonders,
to prefer
them
to our
mainly imported from
district is
abounds
good
district of the province, of a quality so
cent of the metal.
made
latter
that ore
said
is
it
tailor
taught
Ying-ping
in the
as to yield
70 per
"Feng-shui" superstitious dread of natives, fostered
the
by the Mandarins,
mines
opening
to
is
gradually giving
way
before the pressure of foreign intercourse and a practical popular
awakening to a knowledge of the wealth stored up

Contiguous
the
to
known extent and
iron
value.
deposits
opened
be
direction
Tientsin,
by a
up.
also
in
coal-beds
the land.
of
long, however, as " Feng-shui"
So
Government opposition hold

to
are
mines are certain never
their sway,
Some
progress
un-
and
has
been
made
in
this
the coal mines of Kaiping, eighty miles north-east of

are
worked with European machinery, and connected
railroad with the Peh-tang river, twenty-one miles distant.
As we pass through
stantially
of
built
we
the city
brick,
the
notice
numerous
residences
edifices sub-
of native merchants,
temples with a sculptured granite facade, and a large customs

station
but the houses in the suburbs which border the creek
are raised above the water,
appearance
is
of wealth which
'
on
piles,
and their temporary, miserable
in striking contrast to the
we encounter
China Review, 1873,
p.
337.
abodes and evidences
in the heart of the
town.
The Creek
CHINESE SAWYERS.
CHINESE PEDLAR.
'<^' OF THK
UNIVERSITY
Of
CAUFOR^
FATSHAN CREEK.
and
principal thoroughfare,
the
is
junks and boats,
crowded with thousands of
is
busily engaged in loading or discharging cargo,
all
or else in bearing passengers to and fro along the extremely narrow
channel which winds

endless
discord
tracted
for
the
how, forty
handful
way through
its
This creek
reigns.
of the place
traffic
years
tars
small
their
in
much
too con-
can readily imagine
Chinese squadron,
the
ago,
of British
evidently
and
Babel where
this floating
is
boats,
fleeing before a
drew up
like
wall across this narrow passage, and poured a hail-storm of shot
upon
gallant
their
among
the
spreading death and destruction
assailants,
As
band.
little
away from under him, "with
shot
man
of
crew wounded,
his
ments, and returned
at
Commodore, with
for the
last
his
he
'
coxswain
retired
and every
await
reinforce-
from a severe attack, with
The Chinese
the largest junks in tow."
to
boat
his
killed,
who
themselves,
five
of
are
by
no means destitute of courage, are said honestly to have acknowledged their admiration for the
who
and who destroyed
200,000 inhabitants,
terror, as
was supposed, of the "foreign
were held never before
this to
be always taking their foes
coming
bravely
been
set
up
to
the
and
with so
their entire fleet
fair
fight
much
its
the
fire-eating devils,"
have fought a
in the rear of their forts,
front
man
pluck and daring of the
started with seven small boats to capture Fatshan
who
but to
instead of
and taking the guns which had

pains for the very purpose of re-
ceiving their assaults.
Whenever
place
for
merous
'
which
long
block-up
period
of
floating tea
China,
p. 35.
among
the
happens frequently, and
G.
time
one
boats
is
in the
creek takes
protracted indefinitely
has leisure to notice the nu-
and music saloons, and many flower barges
Wingrove Cooke.
42
moored
close
gilded
and decorated throughout.

with
curtained
decks,
we could
conveniently open,
and even elder Sybarites,

waited
upon them with
served
up cups of
The windows and doors
discern gaily-dressed
silver
young dandies,
with gaudily painted
flirting
girls,
who
Chinese hookahs, or
or
pipes
There were pleasure boats,
tea.
are
one of these, which stood
through
and
silk;
prettily carved, painted,
and are very
on
their
These boats carry elevated
banks.
the
against
cabins
too, fitted
which families were being conveyed

into the country to enjoy a glimpse of the green rice-fields and
up with private
cabins, in
orchards.
At San-shui we entered the north

esque
district,
covered
the
with
some
in
ripening
town of Lo'pau,
stream,
of the
of barley.
fields
Wong-Tong
at
but
that
bombard
the
the
Halting not far from
village,
on the right bank
women who were
in-
fled in alarm,
and spread abroad the
foreigners had returned and were preparing to
settlement.
deputation
soon set out from the
by a venerable Chinaman, the head man of the
village,
led
and
to
him we explained that we had come on no
but
only to take a picture of the place.
welcome
my
gossiping
when they saw my instrument pointed
towards their hamlet, they

report
passing into a pictur-
prepared to take a photograph, and
tention was to include a group of old
and drawing water
river,
places not unlike the Scottish lowlands,
to his house, spreading tea
He
clan,
hostile errand,
gave us a hearty
and cake before
us.
This
was one of those many instances of a simple, genuine hospitality

which
experienced
all
over the land
and
feel
assured that
any foreigner knowing enough of the language to make
his im-
mediate wants understood, and endowed with a reasonable, even

temper,
would encounter
greater part of China.
little
opposition in travelling over the
But there
is
always a certain amount of
tfl
t/J
bid
-J
T*
OK iHK
'
UNIVERSITY
TSING-YUNE.
danger
more populous
the larger and
in
43
We
cities.
offered one
or two small silver coins to the children of the house, but the
gentleman would not permit them to be accepted,
old
until
it
had been carefully explained to him that they were simple gifts
to be worn as charms, and not intended as a recompense for his
hospitality.
On
of the river in the Tsing-yune district,
the bank
sinking
escaped
rowly
before
Tsing-yune
gongs
and
smoke
of
reached
into
city,
crackers,
the
joss-sticks,
adjoining
Buddhist monastery of
the
south
the
The
China.
of
us
to
perhaps the most
Fi-lai-sz,
building
an outer gate, whereon
of gold,
"Hioh Shan Miau."
wooded
richly
mossy
of a
within
dell,
is
kind to be seen
its
approached from the
we
The monastery has been
reach the Fi-lai-sz shrine.
it,
and
with opium,
guests
Three
on
idols stand
favourite resting-place this for
sell
human weakness, supply
carved sticks, cut from the
sacred temple groves, as parting relics of their
The Tsing-yune
repute
built
on the verge
one where they are hospitably entertained, and where
the monks, with impious sympathy for

their
this con-
inscribed in characters
one of them representing, or supposed to
represent, the pious founder.

travellers,
is
and half way up to
hill-side,
shrine,
this
nar-
night
and by the
brink of the river by a flight of broad granite steps
ducts
At length we
boats.
picturesque, and one of the most famous of

in
spent
but were kept awake by the noise of
by the odour of
from
cooking
We
quicksand.
as
which the monastery
pass, in
burial-ground.
There,
visit.
lies,
is
in great
thousands of graves front
the river and stud the hill-slopes to a height of about 800 feet.
To
every
grave there
is
a neat facing of stone, something in
the form of a horse-shoe, or like an easy chair with a rounded
back.
The
interior of the
temple cloister
is
paved with granite
44
and
with
decorated
pots
thus art lent
most
and
romantic
narrow
stream
monks
retire
flowers
out
set
On
beautiful.
path leads
when they ought
and
cultivating
the
It
ravine, whither the
seemed
pleasures and sorrows,
its
me, when
to
from
themselves
abstract
to
bank of the
opposite
supreme repose which
that
nearer Nirvana.
vases and ornamental
wooded
to a
world, forgetting existence, with
the
in
aid to a scene of natural loveliness, the
its
them
bring
will
inspected the cell-like
chambers of these devotees, that some among them were not

unfamiliar with the fumes of the opium-pipe, and that they must,
poor
frail
mortals!
times
at
western heavens steeped
We
a
in
endeavour to
away
float
next halted at a village called Lien-Chow-Kwong.
miserable specimen
of
bourhood, and with an

both
and
it
its
air
some bold rock and
hill
and terminate
mile
broad.
hills
in
The
passes in this river present
a bank of glittering sand, not unfrequently a
These
sand-banks
ciation of a refreshing stream
of
margin.
the
finest
glare
river.
like
are
miniature
happy
clouds,
sweeping
or Blind Man's Pass,
darkness.
our
pinnacles
hundred vapoury fragments.
and stormy,
boat
but
Once,
seemed
fitful
like to
in a rapid
if
one
in
the heavy
of rock, were riven
The weather was now
gleams of sunshine broke
caught
is
Here the bold crags shoot up
jagged
across
deserts
in the asso-
which flows clear and cool along
The Mang-Tsz-Hap,
on the
but
precipices that are lost in shreds of drifting mist, as
into a
In
lochs.
downwards towards the water,
slope gently
beneath the blazing mid-day sun,
the
was
scenery, while the short reaches and
sudden bends of the stream remind one of Highland

other places the
It
kind, planted in a desolate neigh-
of poverty and destitution pervading
inhabitants.
its
to the
the incense of that enslaving drug.
in
cold
upon the
by a sudden gust of wind,
have been shattered
in
the breakers
BOATMEN.
in a twinkling slipped the tracking line,
crew
but her
45
down
The Chinese get
drifted safely
the credit of being exceedingly temperate,
in the majority of cases this is true
and
and she
mid-stream.
but at the same time,
the lower orders, especially the boating population, tem-
among
observed because sheer necessity compels reof the boatmen on the rivers along which I
only
perance
is
straint
and many
sam-shu
drink
will
have travelled
to
excess during the cold
These men
weather, whenever they can win a few extra cash.
meet in
can
as
one
class
a
miserable
are about as poor and
In the southern
the most poverty-stricken districts of the land.
with salt,
provinces their sole food is steamed rice, flavoured
more savoury with a fragment of
rendered
or
when times
bit of
little
more
spirits
good,
are
pork
in
especially
will
It
fat.
send
the
the
salt fish;
and
they even indulge in the luxury of a

is
how they
surprising
regions,
northern
warm blood
stand the cold,
and how a drop of
tingling through their veins
strength of
and cause them to display a muscular power and a
the
considers
one
when
for,
accounted
easily
endurance not
Millions of these hardy sons of
simple nature of their food.
from hand to mouth, and are only kept from starving,

staple
from piracy, and from rebellion by the cheapness of their
there
But
labour.
their
for
demand
constant
and by the
live
toil
food,
are pirates to be found in this very river

told
us
contrary,
of
and added, that
it,
there might be a
which we moored
At Ying-Tek
affirmed
this
sensation
our crew themselves
swarm of them
they knew to the
in the
boats
among
at night.
city
assertion,
on
with
fell
in
and
at the
of horror that
Ying-Tek stands
for anything
the
it
spectacle
which
same time produced
fully
in
me
will be impossible ever to forget.
right
bank of the stream; beneath
46
outer
its
wall there
which
bage,
We
putrid-looking
main
the
pools,
of
street
town.
the
and had
thoroughfare,
was an exceedingly narrow
It
one time been paved, but the pave-
at
ment was now broken and disordered

looked
they
the bodies
there
their
that
factors
But
was
it
in the
:
by swarms of
indicated
position
while, as to the people,
dispirited.
we beheld the most shocking sight of all

of two men were exposed to the public gaze,
had
decomposition
that
and
sullen
sickly,
market-place
and gar-
filth
for miles round.
air
way over slimy, treacherous paths and across

till
we passed through the gateway into
our
picked
bank of reeking
stretches a
mid-day must pollute the
at
had been
already
starved
set
death
to
and the
flies,
One
in.
cage
the
in
air telling
of these male-
which he
in
stood, and the other had been crucified.
Beyond the
cultivated
parallel
and
seen
which
of
mountains
before
the
off for the

;
trees,
It
foreground
purposes of
beyond,
finest
hill
to
multitude
of
the
had never
of
fields,
but already shorn of
mound covered
reaching
above the
views
was of a kind
irrigation,
here and there was a
and
the
were
vast
rocks and
shapes most fantastic,
in
was from a
obtained
cultivation hereabouts
in
up
rise
we reach
limestone
isolated
most picturesque.
The
their crops
and
this
of
temple that we
country.
banked
of
out
ranges
disorder
Polo-hang
part of the river
rapids
plains,
base
the
with temples
of the distant
mountains, were groves of green bamboo, rocking their plumage

to
and
valuable
on
his
is
article
frequently
wind,
in the
fro
The bamboo
reared
It
like
this
commerce,
of
estimated
estate.
in
the
waves of an emerald
and other
the
districts,
wealth
of
sea.
and forms a
a farmer being
by the number of clumps which he has
requires
neither
care
nor
source of wealth in this part of the country.
tillage,
and
is
TEMPLE OF KWAN-YIN.
4;
looking on this scene my old Chinaman, Akum, came

do not think he has yet been introduced to my readers.
When
up.
He was
"Well," he
the
beautiful view,"
the
smallest
watching
labourer
"what
my employment
in
had
trader,
are
you looking
at,
hills;
gardeners
Sir.?" "At
settle there,
than
the
rest
had
on the top,
work below, and when
at
more industrious
would
in
his small
lost
replied. "Yes," he said; "I wish
those
of
my
said,
they are here called,
as
who had been
and afterwards turning
Singapore,
capital.
boy,
or
servant,
faithful
forty years of age,
about
saw one
would reward him
with a wife."
He spoke
which
me
to
he hoped
servants.
hill
on
and reward the virtue of
his
about
afterwards
often
day to
one
sit
He was a disciple of Confucius.

I may say something as to the
Hereafter
to which the
bamboo can be
applied.
this ideal
multitudinous uses
There
is
good snipe and
pheasant-shooting in this quarter.
We
noticed
Canton
mats.
quantities
Mats
of
of
the
employed
reeds
this sort are
for
making
manufactured extensively
places viz., Tun-kun, Lintan and Canton; they afford

many thousand operatives, and are indeed an
About
important industry of the province of Kwang-tung.
in three
occupation to
112,000
rolls,
measuring 40 yards apiece, are said to be annually
exported from Canton.
About two hundred miles above Canton we

remarkable
our
which we had encountered
object
journey.
This
is
the
celebrated
visited the
in the
most
course of
grotto of Kwan-yin, the
goddess of mercy, formed out of a natural cave in the foot of

a limestone precipice which rears its head high above the
stream.
and
the
The mouth
interior
has
of the cavern opens on the water's edge,
been
enlarged
in
some
places
by exca-
48
and
vation,
Buddhist
may be
goddess
they
so
tured,
broad
suitable for a
it
platform surmounted by a
granite
but
flower
might
The
priests placed implicit faith in the
not
be
could
be the
to believe that the
persuaded
of a pre-historic lotus of monstrous
fossil
Barbarians might credit such childish fables as that
dimensions.
or
flowers
us,
cave.
they
story,
seated on a huge lotus-flower; sculpby no human hands, and discovered in
seen,
tell
the
within
situ
render
in others, so as to
steps leads us into the upper chamber, and there the
of
flight
up
built
shrine.
enlightened
followers
created
the
in
be
can
fishes
turned into
cave
Kwan-yin
for
to
not
the
the lotus
was
but
stone,
No; they say
of Buddha,
upon; there was no
sit
getting over that.
According
marvellous
world,
the
of
named
a
her
of the
remorselessly
and she was made
and
this
the
proud
such
of
stantaneous
she
dutiful parent put her
measure,
this
his
now
the
hands
hell
goodness
of
executioners,
the
was transformed
looks
lotus
The
down with
throne,
priests
into
contrary to Miao-
daughter to be promoted
fills.
Afterwards Kwan-yin
where the presence
and beauty produced
The instruments of
effect.
eyes as
The sovereign ordered
whereupon the
position
transcendent
Chinaman
visible to mortal
said to have visited the infernal regions,
is
in the centre
she stedfastly refused to do, thus vio-
But
death.
to
mercy has a
of
the daughter of a
as
Chwang's expectation, only caused

into
goddess
this
appeared on earth
China,
is
native usages,
the
first
Emperor Miao-Chwang.
marry,
to
lating
She
that
"Shi-kin,"
child
account
their
to
history.
an
in-
torture dropped from
the guilty were liberated, and
paradise
itself.
The goddess now
a benign expression from her seat upon the
but she seems to be urgently
who
dwell
within the cave,
in
need of
sit
overlooking the
repairs.
3
23
V^
OF THK
'r
UNIVERSITY
CHINESE FARMING.
from
river
the
serves
sun
the
in
upper face of the rock, which
window.
As we see them with the

backs they appear Uke a row of badly preserved
motionless do they sit, and so unconscious, to all
purpose
of
their
at
so
dolls,
opening
an
49
seeming, of the presence of foreigners.
them and display a
But when we confront

wake up and manifest an
bright coin, they
unholy zeal to appropriate
it.
The money is offered and accepted, and then a venerable

member of the order shows us through the interior of the
cave.
A number of smaller idols, the attendants of Kwan-yin,
are ranged along niches in the rock; a
little lighted taper burns

sam-shu and votive offerings of
food are spread out before them. A group of stalactites hangs
in
front of each, while cups of
in
front of the
window
above and around them hover a num-
ber of pure white doves, that descend at the
and feed
priest
out
of his hand.
the outstretched hand of the old
and encumbered by a
en,
and
dead,
were
already
was
It
man
it
call
of the aged
interesting to notice
was withered, shrunk-
set of long yellow nails, that
partly
looked
buried beneath the unwashed
encrustation of a lifetime.
harvest-time,
is
It
and the grain
and has been piled up
cut,
ed with
season
or
flails,
has
trodden
their
second crop from a
careful
the
constantly
be
soil
for the
that
replaced
places
is
the
by
much
substance
already
The
full
abundance of
of
this
which has yielded produce during
recurring
harvests.
farmers, and were probably the
their land requires as
asses
many
beneath the heavy-footed ox.
god of agriculture
praising
of
in
farm-yards in stacks, to be thrash-
been a plenteous one, and the farmers are
joy,
centuries
in
first
The Chinese
are
to understand that
consideration as their oxen or their
which
manure, and
it
that
gives up to a crop has to

it
requires
time of rest
4
50
after a season of labour, before
How
will yield its greatest increase.
it
the Chinese acquired this knowledge, and at what epoch,
are questions which Confucius himself
puzzled
green
raising
There
answer.
to
and
crops
extraordinary
this
in part to the small size of their farms,
personally with unceasing
use
manure
of
and a
instances
This
to
among the peasants of China. We

social economy of the people in a multitude
Thus, when the farmer is
variety of ways.
of daily removing
sewage he
rental.
towns, he
supplies
sum
their
for the
uses,
is
erects
edge
of
farm
his
If
most part
own
his
manure-pit.
in a fluid state, often
is
some
at
distance from villages or
careful to use every opportunity for securing cheap
manure which he so much needs, and accord-
the
of
ingly
houses for
small
his
fields.
use of wayfarers, along the
the
His neighbour
is
equally
same description; and they
houses of the
have
careful to
vie with
each other
keeping them as clean and attractive-looking as possible.
in
I
returned to
leaving
my
one
place
bed
of the
Canton alone from San Shui,

to
friends
there
find
their
this
stream, so
canoe
The
in a small boat,
leisurely back.
had to hire an open canoe, while

the
next bend of the
descended, or rather raced,
amid a number of
embarked.
own way
At
were only a few inches of water above the
baggage was carried overland to

In
to certain houses for the pri-
sewage to
poor waste lands which have been leased to him
fertilise
low
most of them,
and part also to the abundant
care,
near a town he pays a small

vilege
due
fertility is
are,
fashion
in
see evidence of the

of
which
in
their fields at
an area that the proprietors can cultivate them
limited
so
of
from
alternately
grain
But
twice in the year.
least
would probably have been
no doubt that they succeed
is
similar
distance
craft
down
my
river.
to Fatshan,
whereon Chinese traders were
was about
twenty-five
miles.
We
FATSHAN ROUGHS.
contrived to
rest,
reach
and passed
crowded
boats.
of the journey.
of
the tower,
who drove me
by
town about
till
half an hour
ahead of the
once down the narrow channel between the

This was by far the most disagreeable experience
at
Attempting to land quietly and take a photograph
was
into
assailed
the
on the bank by a
river,
a couple of good-natured
stream
me
the
where
mob
was taken
of roughs,
into a boat
women, and by them rowed down
could succeed in engaging a fast boat to convey
as far as Canton.
CHAPTER
IV.
CANTON AND KWANG-TUNG PROVINCE.

Tea
Foreign
Hongs and Houses Schroffing.
Canton and the Kwang-tung province,

aware,
less
places
in
Chinese
vast
the
were
acquainted.
those
my
of
many
continued for
years
to
my
reader
is
doubt-
be almost the only
Empire with which Europeans
need
hardly
who
take
readers
as
do
an
more here than
interest
the
in
refer
obscured
and chequered history of Canton, to an elaborate and interesting

of
account, translated and published in China by Mr. Bowra,
the
first
Imperial
Customs.
In
this
narrative
it
stated that the
is
authentic notice of Kwang-tung province
native
writings
century
of
of our era
missionaries
the
is
introduced
Chow
set
dynasty,
down
their
B. C.
is
as the date at
religious
found
1122.
classics,
the
in
The
fifth
which Buddhist
and
not only
founded the sect which now predominates in the country, but

the
led to the establishment of commercial relations between
Empires
of
centuries
foreign
India
and China.
trade
Until
recently, for the last
two
was confined to Canton, and nearly
all
c
03
53
RSITY
knowledge
the
China
of
hmited to that city and
CANTON.
53
possessed
by Western nations was
The
neighbourhood.
its
foreign trade
was one of sufferance, maintained by the aggressive

perseverance of traders and their disregard of the repeated
of Canton
and indignities of the
slights
local authorities,
who looked upon
trade and traders with contempt and reported accordingly to the
Government
at Peking.
But the Treaty of Tientsin placed the
course of trade beyond the control and caprice of local Manda-
The people
rins.
indulge
are
trading
their
now
allowed
comparative
Although
incHnations.
in
freedom
to
some degree
modified, the native prejudice against foreigners and their wares

flows
still
conceal
The
it
deep undercurrent, which comes to the surface,
in a
as they may, in their contact with Europeans.
Canton stands on the north bank of the Chu-
of
city
kiang or Pearl
about ninety miles inland, and
river,
at all seasons to vessels of the largest tonnage.
between the
ed by the
a
capital
three
at
the
city
and
place,
latter
which feed the Pearl
line of fine
trip
afford-
and by
steamers plies
has thus brought the once distant Cathay
Hongkong up
from
is
river,
Hongkong, and the submarine telegraph
into daily correspondence with the western world.
ant
accessible
and the other parts of the province
branches
network of canals and creeks.
between the
is
Communication
the
It is
a pleas-
broad Pearl river; from the
deck of the steamers one may view with comfort the ruins of
the
Bogue
forts,
Weddell, who
chant vessels
steamer
gers
is
and think of the time and

1637 anchored the
before
them.
trip
asleep.
first
The Chinese
an interesting sight, too.
every
able attitudes,
fast
in
and there they
lie
It
is
feelings of Captain
fleet
of English mer-
cabin in the Canton
crowded with passen-
on the deck
in all
imagin-
some on mats, smoking opium, others on benches,

There are little gambling parties in one corner,
54
merchants talking trade
another; and viewed from
and
city
the
cabin-door the whole presents a wonderfully confused per-
spective
and
arms and heads, queues,
of naked limbs,
The owners
cotton jackets.
silk or
in
fans,
pipes,
of these miscellaneous
never dream of walking about, or enjoying the scenery

I
only once noticed a party of Chinese passen-
effects
sea-breeze.
or
gers aroused to something bordering on excitement, and
attempt
him ashore
sent
Canton,
lively
around
it
his head,
back with cords: and
his
to
who was
meet
his friends,
in this
and
tied
condition
but not before they had
spirit.
very
It
pretty
intercourse
He would
carried prisoner to Calcutta.
in this quarter
departed
creek;
own
his
be forgotten
his
in their
nakedness with a coat of paint of various tints.

readers will remember the celebrated Governor Yeh of
covered
My
bound
clothing,
behind
hands
his
was
steamer reached the wharf, they relieved the
the
of his
delinquent
it
a countryman in an
robbery and determined to punish him
at
When
way.
They had caught
Canton steamer.
this
in
were
almost
not for a temple erected to
it
may be seen on the bank of a suburban

monument it is to remind one of our
with the notorious Imperial commissioner in
1857, an intercourse marked by trouble and bloodshed throughout,

and which ended in the capture of that unfortunate official in
an obscure Yamen.
The Fatee
gardens, so often described were
almost unchanged, at the
bank of the
river.
dwarf shrubs and

only
a small
These gardens were nurseries
trees.
area,
to be found,
still
of a narrow creek on the right
side
for flowers,
Like most Chinese gardens they covered
and were contrived to represent landscape

Some distance below the Fatee creek,
gardening in miniature.
on the same side of the

tea-firing
establishments
river,
are
to
number
be
found.
of
Tea Hongs and
To
these
now
TEA-TRADE.
55
venture to introduce the reader, as he must needs

in
interest
less
we
Passing
luxury.
highly-prized
narrow
the tea-men, and their
mode
up the creek,
along
between densely-packed rows of
channel,
more or
feel
of preparing this
the usual
floating crafc,
on a broad stone platform, cross a court where men
land
are to be seen weighing the tea, and enter a large three-storied
brick building, where

to
whom we
One
tomers.
Ching, the proprietor,
of the clerks
is
directed to
show us over the
place.
He
ushers us into a large warehouse, where thousands of chests of
first
the
we meet Tan King
bear an introduction from one of his foreign cus-
new crop
are piled up, ready for inspection
inspection of this cargo
is
eign tea-taster enters and places his
and scrutinised
prove
pens
as fair samples of the bulk.
moment
certain
the for-
boxes
in dif-
ones
shortcomings
The whole cargo
is
ceremony should the parcels examined
further
satisfactory
that
mark on
and these are forthwith removed, weighed
ferent parts of the pile
shipped without
by the buyer. The
an exceedingly simple process
nowadays
and, indeed,
in
seldom hap-
it
weight and quality are at the
last
detected, for the better class of Chinese merchants are
remarkable for their honesty and
fair
dealing.
am
the more
anxious thus to do justice to the Chinese dealers, because the

got abroad that, as a rule, they are the most noto-
notion has
men who never fail to overreach the unsuspecting

when an opportunity occurs, and upon whose shoulders
rious cheats
trader
must
the
fall
full
weight of the charge of preparing and selling
spurious or adulterated teas which have reached this country in
a condition not
fit
for
human
food.
It
seems
clear to
the Chinese manufacturer of this sort of rubbish

the
who
most reprehensible party

sets
natives,
in
the
trade.
is
He
me
that
by no means
it
is,
indeed,
himself to collect from the servants of foreigners or
and
from
the
restaurants
and tea-saloons, the leaves
THROUGH CHLNA WITH A CAMERA.
56
have been already used, and to dry them, cook them and
that
mix them
with
imitations
genuine
of the
This process
leaf.
completed, he next adds pickings, dust and sweepings from the

tea-factory,
lend
to
and mixes the whole with foreign materials, so as

a healthy surface hue.
it
with some
Lastly, he perfumes the lot
flower the chlorantus,
sweet-smelling
olea,
aglaia
and others; and thus provides a cheap, fragrant and polluted

cup for the humble consumers abroad. This evil has been to
a
great
up
finer
extent
sorts
and
cured by
the
the cultivation of tea.
in
which
competition
China
has
sprung
holds a market in the
still
of tea, but her trade has greatly fallen as a whole,
threatened with extinction unless, by improved methods
is
of culture and preparation, she can rival the cost and quality of
the full-flavoured leaf of India and Ceylon. In 1895, as compared
with the previous year, the export of black teas to Great Britain
and the United States had
The
tea-trade
always
to
full
their
annually
in
fallen off
China
We
cost)
invested
the
in
but any profit at

will
enterprise,
in the
the
of black
these
flat
leaves
next
are
tray,
in
are
spread
refuse
we
hollow
out
may be
notice
the
on
another
to
tea
rolled, either
iron
is
it
will return,
probably only every
do not say a handsome
apartment
are
in the
partially
bamboo
picked
out.
in
In
teas.
First
in the sun;
bag, then they are scorchfire,
trays, that the

this
different
dried
palm of the hand, or on a
hempen
pans over a charcoal
leaves
and see the
manufacture of gunpowder
or by the feet in a
ed
a speculative one,
all.
now proceed
method adopted
fresh
less
some of our merchants have found out

and though a vast amount of foreign capital is
of risks (as
second or third venture that

profit,
150,000 piculs.
more or
is
large
and
after
this
broken stems and

stone-paved room
stages of preparation.
The
ri
Q
ri
Oy THE
flVERSlTY
PREPARING THE LEAF.

labour
required
and
curious
plant
is
bodied
produce
to
interesting
We
subjected.
each
coolies,
of
many
only in
One
feels
puzzled
Can
they
be
their
arms on a cross beam,
at
or
is
and toss
their feet busily roll
short
it
or
only
The
tea
leaves,
As
the
requires
rolled; the twisting
become
the
or
sizes,
parted after the
about a foot
and
final
the introduction
wake
rolling
It
full
of
the bag
neck and again
is
then divided through seives into
and the scent and bouquet
drying or scorching.
feel
is
im-
convinced that
of the best machinery for rolling, cooking and
of
is
only
railways
"Tung-ting"
the
diameter
rolling being repeated until the leaf has
question of time, and will follow
and
silk
and cotton
from
in
the floor of
motion assume the
at the
manner of the Japanese.

Most of the tea shipped from Canton
province of Kwang-tung formerly part of
Hankow.
down
rest
and with
work, and very hard work
be twisted up
qualities,
preparing the leaf

the
wall,
become more compact,
leaves
to
perfectly globose.
different
is
by the constant
which
and
it
naked limbs.
beneath their feet are the bags packed
balls
shape.
pellet
loosens
pair of cotton
They each
play.?
against
balls of
Our guide assures us
the room.
too.
which the
what they are about.
the size of an ordinary football), up and
(or
the most
is
to
free action to his
to conjecture
first
work,
at
leaf
processes
are surprised to notice a troop of able-
dressed
up so as to give
trousers, tucked
in
gunpowder
the
the
57
district,
but that
Leaves from the Taishan
making "Canton
District
Pekoe" and
after the
is
now grown
it
used to be brought
now
district are
"
mills,
in the
way
to
mostly used
in
finds its
Long-Leaf Scented Orange
Pekoe," while Loting leaf makes "Scented Caper and Gunpow-
der"
In
teas.
order
to
see the foreign tea-tasters prosecuting a branch
58
of science which they have

the
cross
made
which the foreign houses stand
We
wander
ascend a
surrounded, and
examine
day and
been
up
factory
olden
in
wild
like
at
when
this
done we might
the houses on the
merchant's
office,
Those who are
all.
and who can
site,
times,
all
of a
trace
any outward sign of commerce

with the
gardens
massive stone retaining
is
without discovering
island,
villas,
its
flight of steps in a
whole
for
looking with
suburb of some English
which Shameen
wall with
green island, on
little
like the
and croquet-lawns and churches

town.
we must
peculiarly their own,
Shameen, a pretty
to
river
or
familiar
what that must have
figure
the foreign merchants were caged
company and
beasts and subjected to the
taunts
of the vilest part of the river population, and to the pestilential
fumes of an open drain that carried the sewage of the

the
stream,
be
will
surprised
city to
transformation that has,
the
at
since those days, been wrought.
The
present
mud
claimed
ornamental
outhouses
above the
raised
stone
of
buildings
residences of foreigners on this grassy site (re-
flat,
railing,
or
or
brick,
river) are substantial, elegant
surrounded
each
bamboo hedge,
Except the
in its circuit.
brass door-plate, there
is
by a wall
an
enclosing the gardens and

firm's
name on each
nothing anywhere that
tells
small
us of trade.
But when we have entered, we find the dwelling-house on the

upper
story,
ground-floor
and
comprador's
the
next to
the
offices
Ranged
against
shelves,
covered with small round
and
each
writing.
of
old
tasting,
These
new
smelling
offices
tea-taster's
on the
apartment.
the walls of this chamber are rows of polished
bearing
and
room and
the
label
boxes
teas,
and
tin
date
boxes of a uniform
in
contain samples of
used
for
size,
Chinese and English
reference
all
the various sorts
and comparison
and scrutinising parcels, or chops, which
in
may
SUBURBAN RESIDENTS, CANTON.
V'
OF
.^
tTNlVEBSlTY
TESTING TEA.
be
offered
for
with
manufactured
cups,
the centre of the floor stands a long
In
sale.
bestrewn
table
59
multitude
of white
covered
porcelain
purpose of tasting
the
for
specially
tea.
The samples
are placed in these cups, and hot water of a given
temperature
is
rests
this
The time
them.
measured by a sand-glass
is
accomplished,
is
upon
poured
then
the hot water
in
ready for
is
all
wooden
are spread on square

light
Upon
it
general appearance
and smell takes
who have gone through
assistants
which
training
portance
them
fits
to
the
the
at
minutest
quality
not
moment
precautions
or
ability.
weight.
It
undercooked or imperfectly
homeward voyage, and

quite unfit for use.
outcome of the
will
thus be seen that the
his teas for exportation,
shipped,
they are
to
This
takes the
fraudulent shortcomings, either
sound
possible, however, for a
is
The
art.
of the greatest im-
profitable
It
before
against
is
depends, to a great extent,
when he chooses
only
last
the
home market
judgment and
their
merchant,
as
All these tests are
a special course of
mysteries of their
the
for
merchant,
crops selected for the
at
under the uniform
is
place.
knowledge which these experts possess
but
falls
above described that the minute inspection of colour, make,
made by
on
board the samples
this
and
trays,
is
and are
aspect,
admit only a steady skylight, which
off so as to
on a tea-board beneath.
directly
the tea
and when
the tasting, which
much more useful than elegant operation.

The windows of the room have a northern
screened
dried, to
reach
become
this
tea,
in
if
putrid during the
country
in a
know from my own
condition
experience.
one time was presented with a box of tea by the Taotai of
Taiwanfu,
of the
in
Formosa, and when
first
leaves had a slightly green tint
intended to
bring this
tea
home
to
got
it
found that some
and were damp.

England
it
had
was of good
6o
but
quality,
before
spoiled
it
China.
left
Judging from the
been condemned, the importation of
quantities of tea that have
spurious cargoes can hardly be a lucrative trade.

morality has not run to such
commercial
Chinese
Although
a very low ebb as some might imagine, yet the clever traders
of the lower orders of Cathay are by no means above resorting
and ingenious practices of adulteration,
questionable
highly
to
when such practices can be managed with safety and profit.

Thus the foreign merchant finds it always necessary to be vigilant
in
his
scrutiny
purchase.
effecting
silk
tea,
and other produce, before
equal care requires to be observed
But
transactions, as counterfeit coining
money
in all
of
Canton
marvellous
with
is
a profession
success; so successful
carried
on
indeed,
are the coiners of false dollars that the native experts,
in
who
are
employed by foreign merchants (Mr. W.
or
schroffs,
F.
Mayers assured me),
detecting
the
taught
are
by men who
counterfeit coin,
art of schroffing, or
are in direct
communi-
cation with the coiners of the spurious dollars in circulation.
many
In
Canton
the
of
shops
"Schroffing taught here." This
and
in
at
Were
But
the
is
counterfeiting
same time the expensive
the
banks and merchants
naman
notices
the intimation
down,
put
coining
be no need for the crafty instructors of schroffs
would
there
one
a curious system of corruption,
would be worth the serious attention
think
Government.
the
of
would
one
which
is
dollar
not
once
manipulation
at
"schroffing"
or
difference
the
in
in
only
as a profession
'
employed
staff of experts
offices could
be dispensed with.
the hands of a needy and ingenious Chidelightful
most
detecting
value
to
behold,
skilful
spurious
and
but
it
admits of a
profitable.
coin
The
art of
and ascertaining the
of dollars of various issues,
by hundreds of young Chinamen, who
is
studied
find
em-
SCHROFFING DOLLARS.
X"
OF THE
J^
UNIVERSITY
SCHROFFING.
ployment
banks and merchants'
in
where schroffing
is
taught are well
offices.
known
6l
The estabUshments
to be in direct
com-
munication with counterfeiters of Mexican dollars and other coin,

and it has often been said that the existence of schroffs and
false
money
amount of
cessity
felt,
not
for
and
if
are
mutually indispensable to each other.
counterfeit
multitude
the
coin
of
money
circulation
schroffs
establishments
exist, the counterfeiters
passing false
in
were
into circulation
If
the
the ne-
would not be so severely
where schroffing
would
less,
is
lose the principal
taught did
means of
CHAPTER
CANTON
Its
V.
{Continued).
general Appearance Its Population Streets Mode of transacting

Business Signboards Work and Wages The Willow-pattern Bridge
Kwang Clan FightsHakJuilin, late Governor-General of the two
kas The Mystic Pills Dwellings of the Poor The Lohang-tang
Buddhist Monastic Life On board a Junk.
Canton is by no means the densely packed London in China

which some have made it out to be. The circuit of the city
wall very little exceeds six miles, and if we stand upon the
heights to the north of the city, and turn our faces southward,
we can trace the outline of these fortifications along a considerable
portion
strictly
of
their
straggling
over the plain.
spaces;
some,
shaded
and gardens of the

grounds,
at
This, then,
is
the entire area
town; but there are large
suburbs outside the walls which spread for no
distance
tended
course.
included in the limits of the
In these suburbs there are
by
officials;
trees
little
many open
and orchards, form the parks
others, again, display the carefully
produce of the market-gardener; while military parade
and ponds where fish are bred, are scattered

between more thickly populated ground. There is,
rice-fields,
intervals
FEMALE COIFFURE, CANTON.
CANTON PAWNSHOPS.
63
indeed, nothing in the whole picture of this southern metropolis
suggestive of a teeming land population, save the centre of the

city
But
itself.
Pearl
of
and
canals
of
a vast
In
city.
number of
the wall there
with
this
the broad
is
stream
network
more densely populated

the boats which crowd these water-
the
creeks,
perhaps than the
ways
south
the
to
and communicating
river,
whole
families pass their lives,
and subsist by
carrying merchandise or conveying passengers to different parts

of
The population
province.
the
of Canton
is
computed
a million souls, although the official census returns
about
at
at
it
a figure considerable higher.
As
the
Peking,
in
divided
into
Canton,
at
the space within the walls
parts, the
is
one occupied nominally by.
garrison and official residences only, and the other
Tartar
containing
so
two unequal
the
abodes of the trading Chinese population.
But
the descendants of the old Tartar soldiers, too proud to labour,
and too haughty
to stoop themselves to the
have become impoverished
trade,
mean
artifices
of
process of time, and have
in
disposed of their lands and dwellings to their more industrious
As
Chinese neighbours.
to the houses themselves, they every-
where preserve one uniform low

ance
produced
thus
which
temple,
grove
of
rears
venerable
pawnshops
at
level,
rare
carved
its
trees,
or
but the monotonous appear-
intervals
and
by the
nine-storied pagoda, or
proudly as church steeples, and indeed at
the
Chinese
which
is
What was
in
beneath a modest
sites.
The
the
first
we mistook them
our surprise then, to discover in them
reproduction
found
tall
strange city rear their heads heavenwards as
in this
for temples.
broken by some
gilded roof from amid a
towers that mark the pawnshop
quadrangular
lofty
is
of that money-lending establishment
shady corners of our own bye-streets,
trinity of gilded balls,
and whose private side
64
stands
entrance
bold-looking
which
height
to
open.
invitingly
edifices,
positively,
Canton they are square
In
benevolent grey-brick heads
their
lifting
Chinese
in
invests
them
something
akin
eyes,
with sanctity.
and
Ah-sin
Ah-lok,
and
dows,
might
dare to
one
visiting
huge
the
at
ready
above,
roof
the
indeed,
up
look
these
boulders poised on the edge of
down upon any robber who
drop
sides.
treasure-sheltering
the
scale
of
rock
to
with
narrow stanchioned win-
at their plastered walls,
veneration
to
recollect
places for the purpose of seeing within,
and to obtain a view of the
Armed
city.
from a leading Chinese merchant,
with an introduction
presented myself one morn-
ing before an outer gate in the high prison-looking wall, which

encircled
who
number of
candidates
was
was answered by a portly
me
admitted
once
at
military
porter
the
drill;
My summons
tower.
the
gate-keeper,
himself
an
going
and how
through
soldier,
old
sergeant, and was now instructing pupils
in the
The
this,
a sort of
drill-
use of the
bow
a square
scaffolding, standing free of the walls, ran right
This scaffolding was divided into a series of
from
which lead
stowing
one
to
and
nearest
the
roof
deposited.
was
floor
ticket denoting the
was
roof.
having ladders
flat
was used
occupied the upper
lighter articles
and bore
it
flats,
the other; the bottom
Every pledge from
when
wooden
up to the
of the greatest bulk, such as furniture or
pledges
smaller
the
one
jewellery.
date
found
office for transacting busi-
ness was on the ground-floor, and above
while
course of
lift
gate at the base of the tower.
produce;
up heavy weights. After exhibiting one or two

of their powers, we were taken to a narrow barred
to
specimens
for
Here
inside.
devoted
to ceiling
to bullion
flats,
and
was catalogued,
number of the article and the

Thus anything could be found
><
u
M
UNIVERSITY
TARTARS
and
redeemed
at
moment's
65
Such towers are places
notice.
custody of the costly gems and robes of the wealthy
for the safe
community,
classes
of
the
tutions
in
expose
property
to
and are
where
country
really
bridgandage
constant
indispensable
and
Besides
risks.
insti-
misgovernment
licensed
this,
pawnbroking establishment makes temporary advances to needy

persons who may have security to lodge the charge being three
;
month on sums under ten

month of the year, when the interest
per
per
cent
cent.
three years in the better class of pawnshops
pawn
redeeming each
Not
is
far
suit as
it
may be
the British Consulate, or
in
the last
the rate
is
are kept for
it is customary for
and summer clothing alternately,
their winter
below the Heights
taels,
The pledges
two per cent per month.
the poor to
save
reduced to two per
amount of the loan exceeds ten
the
If
uniformly
taels,
is
required.
in the
Tartar quarter of the
Yamen.
This edifice stands
grounds of what was once a palace, and
made up
is
in
city,
the
of diverse
picturesque Chinese buildings, environed by a tastefully laid out
and
garden
deer
pagoda ascribed
park.
Hard by
to the reign of
the sixth century of our era

high.
In
longing
scale
to
this
disgusted
some
1859
go
aloft,
British
Chinese,
ancient nine-storied
in the
middle of
octagonal in shape and
weary of shore
sailors,
managed,
crazy-looking
the
it is
the
is
Emperor Wu-Ti,
the
at
they
hate
70
feet
and
risk of their necks, to
monument an event which

for
life
greatly
to have their dwellings
overlooked from a height, more especially by a pack of foreign

fire-eating
sailors.
Descending
from
the
height,
and
passing
southwards down to the main street of the town, we are struck
by the appearance of the

from
the
anything
folks
who
lounge
shops, which differ
closely-packed
we have ever seen

about,
before.
even
in
the
We
observe that
meanest-looking
66
most of them, good-looking the men of average

women seldom disfigured by small
dwellings, are,
and shapely, and the
height
bandaged
There
feet.
from the parade-ground

themselves
nants
instructed
they
saw
with
in
powerful
Chinese,
but
fact
Some
of
seated
in
all
These are the rem-
air.
They have been
their
small-footed consorts are no-
they keep them
is,
strictly secluded.
handsome Tartar matrons have
these
bamboo cages
soldiers;
many of the troops I

As to the shopkeepers,
with
other quarters of the Empire.
are
of soldiers, not far
camp.
Tartar
favourably
contrast
where to be seen; the
they
number
who, erect and muscular, carry
and are said to make good
in foreign drill,
certainly
also
dauntless military
once
of the
are
fellows
their children
and pretty
at their doors,
birds
little
they make, too.
One
is
attractive
almost bewildered by the diversity of shops and the
they
wares
very fascinating
they
about the
are
contented
and
display.
in their
Then the shopkeepers are so

Have a good look at them
of men in China industrious,
manners.
best
class
some
refined-looking,
of
them.
short time
back a curious, though not uncommon, sort of lottery was got
up among the shopkeepers of Canton.

Juy-Chang boot shop
poetry,
stakes
on
organised
as
prizes
to
in
Ma-an
of
sort
literary
the successful
five selected subjects.
Wang-leang-chai of the
street, seized
with a passion for
composer of the best
wholly
book
absorbed
pointment
'
in
if
one hand and a pipe or fan

in his studies.
you
See China Review,
lines
'
Frequently, on entering a Canton shop, you

with
and offered the
lottery,
expect
the
1873, p. 249.
You
will
smoker
will find its
owner
in the other,
and
be doomed to disap-
to start
up
at once, all
CANTON SHOPS.
67
smiles and blandness, rubbing his hands together as he
shrewd guess of what he
Your presence
the reverse.
happen
to
the
all
that
But
not
is
it
now
gentleman,
you hear
keen eye
feel that a
while.
the
apparently unnoticed, unless you
is
then
anything;
lift
and
arrested,
that the fan has
you enquire
till
certain that
some
for
you mean
without bustle from his seat, show you his goods,

price
means
which plainly
to
says, "If
by adhering
to
it
with
independent style
profits,
than
if
believe they sell
they were perpetually
patronage by word and gesture.
soliciting
or state
a polite yet careless air,
we make an exchange." After
suits you,
this
and make better
more,
at
sell
article
to trade, will
rise
he
On
our
way homeHere
wards we pass through Physic Street, or Tsiang-Lan-Kiai.

nearly
dividing
shops
the
all
building from
each
apartment open to
for
the
display
the
tall
upright
every shop
or
altar
signboard,
shrine,
shop
kept
is
burning
the
dedicated to
craft.
opened,
in
size,
neighbour.
its
a brick party-wall
All
have one front
granite base also supports
indispensable characteristic
of
signboard stands a small
Opposite the
China.
in
in
the street, with a granite or brick counter
of their wares.
tradesman and his

the
uniform
are
been
bent on your movements
is
the
all,
Quite
obsequiously or with rudeness accordingly.
you
ceiving
makes a
Hkely to take out of you, and re-
is
god who presides over the
the
This deity
is
honoured regularly when
and a small incense-stick
bronze cup of ashes placed
is
lighted,
in front
and
of the
shrine.
The shops within are frequently

wood and carved shelves,
ished
fitted
with a counter of pol-
while at
the back
countant's room, screened off with an open-work
wooden
is
an ac-
partition,
so carved as to resemble a climbing plant. In some conspicuous

place
stand
the
brazen
scales
and weights, ever polished and
68
adorned
with
red
These
cloth.
are used for weighing
scales
the silver-coin bars and fragments of the precious metal, which
When
form part of the currency of the place.
as to secure his fair

to buy.
This balance
cation of the
trivance
tion;
balance, so
just portion of the article
he has come
in
the
to
classes
as
this,
narrow
is
this
in
in
our estima-
against
during
soil
shaded above
a stereotyped necessity.
shower,
to
as
be caught
in
one of these
out
the
the
Chinese
some
So
sun.
city,
places
of the
and
or
citizens
evening,
strife
of the
smoke,
or
they
retire
streets are narrow,
viewed from a distance, they look
and
like
space entirely tiled over, beneath
sedulously conceal themselves until the cool
when weary of the darkness and of the trade

day, they swarm on the housetops to gamble,
to
lower
the
benches of their shops.
regions
to
sleep
fall,
then
on the cool
Canton boasts no system of drainage,
no water supply save the

of street lighting.
in
subsides
with screens of matting to keep
sip their tea until the shades of night
again
it
close indeed, are the roofs to each other in

that,
one uninterrupted covering
which the
down
the water pours
The broadest
beneath.
in
its
unfair dealing has therefore, like
become
torrents from the roofs and floods the pavement, until
through the
appli-
may take to themselves credit. The people

many other matters, a law unto themselves.
by no means pleasant
streets
simple
mechanical con-
lowest details of petty trade, for which the
struggle
ceaseless
is
It
universal lack of confidence, which finds
other native institutions,

It
weight.
sliding
But the tendency of
lever.
proves
governing
are
not unlike an ordinary yard measuring-
is
invariably brings his
not calculated to elevate the Chinese
is
it
way down
with
furnished
rod,
and
goods are sold
own
by weight, the customer
river,
no gas works, and no system
Opium Smoking.
SHOP SIGNBOARDS.
The signboards
of Cantonese shops are not only the pride of
they
but
owners,
their
69
are
delight
to students of Chinese.
the high-flown classical, or poetical phrases
In
attention
most
drawn
is
the
instances
the
to
various
reference
faintest
Thus, a tradesman who
making
has
soup,
on
board
his
Hao the
Ki
Kien
sign of the
sells
simply
Yun-Ki, sign of the Eternal. But here
chow,
the
to
estabhshment.
is
fails
public
to see in
contents of the
swallows' nests for
characters signifying
list
symbol Kien (Heaven) Hwei-
and writing materials. This
ink, pencils
by which
one
shops,
is
indeed a very
high compliment to literature.
Chang Tsi Tang (Chang of the family branch designated Tsi).

manufacture. Chang is evidently
pills
of select
Wax-cased
proud
of
his
connection
family
and
probably offers
it
as
sufficient guarantee for the quality of his pills.
Yih
Tien
and
chairs
can
advantage).
(Celestial
divans
customer
for
be
Now
sale.
supposed
indeed,
one
to
derive
supposes
unless,
conferred
by the use of these cushions
this
sort
another
little
associated
sign
common
is
the
downy
ease
almost beyond the
There must be some notion of
with upholsterers' shops, as
embodying
for
from table-covers or
that
cushions,
sphere of terrestial enjoyment.
cushions
Table-covers,
what "Celestial advantage"
we have here
high-flown phrase flavoured with a
sense.
Tien Yih Shen
(Celestial
advantage combined with attention).
Shop for the sale of cushions and ratan

Yung Ki (sign of the Eternal). Swallows'
mats.
nests. Money-schroffing
taught here.
K'ing
artisticly
Wen
T'a'ng (the
hall
of delight in scholarship). Seals
engraved.
Notwithstanding the narrowness of the streets of Canton, they
70
extremely picturesque
are
more
which we
especially those in
and the silk-mercers,
find the old curiosity-shops, the silversmiths
where the signboards present a most
attractive display of brilliant
and varied colours, as indeed,
one through which we have
in the
been passing.
just
by a narrow
thence
Striking
back
alley into a
we
lane,
find
ourselves in a very poor neighbourhood with dingy, dirty hovels
with
filled
silk
who
operatives,
series
commonly
ivory
of nine
believed
that
these
balls
man working on one
The rough
solved.
ually
a ball
it is
piece
are
It
of solid ivory
centred,
groove
is
being
then
set
tool
again
holes
it
all
cut into
passed
is
drilled
and
carried
out with
ball
that
after
all
another,
the holes until
drops into the centre.
with the
After this one hole
round.
bent at the end
centred,
and a small
grad-
is
becomes perfectly
and
in the lathe
in,
and with
produced near the heart of the sphere
is
then
is
first
is
is
But as
as to look solid.
them the mystery
of
It
in halves
then fixed into a primitive-looking lathe and turned
number of
requisite
carved
first
with a sharp tool in various positions until
round.
elaborately
one within the other.
balls,
and then joined together so perfectly
we watch
some weaving
others again, carving and
we were shown an
one shop
Entering
foreigners.
carved
ivory balls and curios which are the admiration of
the
turning
work
are busily at
others embroidering satin robes
the
all
is
this a
another hole
same operation
the grooves meet
In this
way
all
the
balls,
one within the other, are ultimately released. The next operation
is
carving the innermost ball; this
long
drills
and other delicate
rest of the balls are
carved
becoming more easy and

reached,
and
this
is
accomplished by means of
is
tools,
and
in the
in succession,
elaborate
until
same way
all
the
the carving gradually
the
outside
ball
is
then finished with a delicate beauty that
ARTISANS' WAGES.
Close by these ivory-turners
resembles the finer sorts of lace.

are
men
designing patterns of birds, butterflies and flowers on
The wages
satin robes.
are
71
who do this
who furnishes
of the people
The
very small indeed.
artist
lovely
work
the designs
about î 5s a month, and the following table gives the
receives
average at which skilled labourers are paid.
month with food
100
Blacksmith
.280
First-class ivory carver
Skilled embroiderer
...
Silversmith
150
12 o
18 O
Painter
It
150a
Shoemaker
takes about ten days to complete the embroidery of a pair
of shoes
when soled and finished, fetch fifteen shilThe wages of the embroiderer, according to this
would amount to six shillings or thereabouts, and
and
lings a pair.
calculation,
these,
the balance, to cover cost of material and making, would leave
but a modest profit to the master

are
in
but then embroidered shoes
constant demand, and a lady of rank will require
Some
thirty pairs for her marriage trousseau alone.
broider
their
common
too,
one.
and
are
used by
all
except the poorest
China as to give artisans a great advantage
this
man
will
of
em-
own shoes, but the practice is by no means a

The dress shoes of the men are embroidered
class.
seen from the foregoing notes that skilled labour
branches
some
ladies
native
rival
to
It
will
be
so cheap in
those various
which find a market abroad; and
industry
one day render the

formidable
in all
is
clever,
careful
and patient China-
European manufacturers, when he
has learned to use machinery in weaving fabrics of cotton or
silk.
72
Many
shops
of
at
be sold
in
the
embroidered
beautifully
home are made by hand in

London at prices that defy
is
The oppo-
Bradford and
in
Machinery
is
eradicating
disease
in the
introduced in reeling the
being
also
It
province have adopted
in this
notwithstanding the native dread of innovation.
silk,
It
is
per-
astonishing to see what these Cantonese can accomplish
fectly
on
Chinese
method of detecting and
silkworms.
see in our
comes mostly from the operatives themselves.
noteworthy that the
Pasteur's
we
competition.
machines used
sition to the introduction of the
Manchester
stuffs
China, and yet they can
own
their
design,
Give them almost any pattern or
inferior looms.
and they
fections with as
contrive to weave
will
much exactness
as
imitating
it,
beauties.
its
its
imper-
like to linger
over these shops, and to meditate on these scenes of ceaseless
where
industry,
goes on with a quiet harmony that has a
all
Amid all the

command
strange fascination for the observer.

the poorest has
toil,
some
leisure at his
evidences of
;
then, seated
on a bench, or squatting tranquilly on the ground, he

or
ployer,
who seems
to
grow
fatter
and happy temperament of
how
see
than at
his
smoke
first
sight
selves out to sleep.
An
is
one would suppose.
breakfast on their benches
too.
and wealthier on the smiles
workmen.
the nucleus of this great city
are kitchen, dining-room and
in
will
chat with a neighbour, untroubled by the presence of his em-
Here, too, one can
more
closely populated
Most of the workshops
bed-room too here the workpeople

;
here at nightfall they stretch them-
Their whole worldly wealth
is
stored here
extra jacket, a pipe, a few ornaments which are used
common, and a
total
worldly
with
him
nese
operative
pair of chopsticks
pelf;
and indeed
these make up each man's
his greatest treasure
stock of health and a contented mind.

is
completely content
if
he carries
The
Chi-
he escape the pangs of
REELING
SILK.
U6^
WILLOW-PATTERN BRIDGE.
endowed with
hunger,
enjoy
to
sense
the
and of
all.
wherein everything
is
too in a land so
happy
to be
in
the privilege
and ordered by men who know
settled
what they ought to know, and who are paid to keep
exactly
from
people
ambitiously seeking to quit the groove
or
rising,
which Providence placed them
Chinaman
that the
will
be
and
to qualify
inations
living
a land, so they seem to suppose,
is
It
him simply
to enable
sufficient
living,
human being ought
perfect, that a
of residing there at
in
health
of
73
in
will
say
a sense they
Parents are ambitious to educate their children,
right.
them
for candidature at the
Government exam-
men who
and there are probably no
Many
at their birth.
not without ambition, and
is
more
lust
after
power, wealth and place than the successful Chinese graduates,
know
simply because they

pects.
may
have
they
If
fairly aspire to
become
ing classes, the populace
which
quit
visited
Canton
original
no
limit to their pros-
member
of the Imperial Cabinet
of letters, and not the poor labour-
whom
have just described.
must give some account of a spot
there,
more than once, and which was commonly known
as the garden of Pun-ting-qua.
the
is
and genius, the poorest of them
men
but then these are the
Before
that there
interest
owner,
Pun-ting-qua, or Pun-shi-cheng,
had been a wealthy merchant
at
Canton,
but his Government ultimately drained him of his wealth, by

compelling him
of trade
raise
to
in
the
salt.
to
pay a certain fixed sum

Falling
amount,
his
into
heavy
property
arrears,
beautiful
place,
was sold to the
missionary society of Canton;

this
quaint
pleasure-ground,
and
traces
at the
His house,
anti-foreign, anti-
time of
of decay
his
notable instance,
of the danger of becoming too rich in China.
singularly
monopoly
and being unable
was sequestrated, and
splendid garden raffled in a public lottery.

this,
for the
my
visit to
had already
set
74
their
stamp upon the curious structures that adorned
it.
above the
rising
which divided
jetty
and children
garden,
the outer wall
Once
the
China
realise
are washing
way
makes
that
pagoda marks the
three-storied
Pun-ting-qua's
to
in
edifice
wooden
frail
are busy dipping dark blue cotton fabrics
stream.
the
into
men
while the
boats,
jetties
to the
Dogs bark and snarl at the doorfowls look out upon the throng of
for their safety.
domesticated pigs or
ways,
Women
from the stream.
it
upon the steps and
sit
one tremble
water and bending over a
dull
first
made my way up Sulphur Creek, which sweeps round

west of the city, and passed many a strange-looking
we
which
we seem
arrived inside,
pictured
us
to
site
through a gateway
enter
of
in
for the first time
our schoolboy days.
in
Here we see model Chinese gardening; drooping willows, shady

walks
and
Here,
too,
love-birds
with
she,
when
no
is
equal
with the crook.

look at
all
and
in
all
Where
.^
their
land us
in
where
it
falls
example,
for
feet,
after the
daughter
shepherd
above
it
far short of the

is
but
scene
the pavilion which
which grows nothing but
other tree, too,
on which
only
feathers
the fence that meanders across the platform

}
Their
own.
trived retreats
pool,
that
is
tree
the two
this willow-pattern bridge,
find
Where,
the
fore-ground
the
float.
fish-tail
his unfilial
makes her way
picture,
we miss
with the
hand pursuing
in
leisure,
my
ornaments,
foot-balls,
bloom
barges
gilded
But
by.
parent,
dutiful
photographed
on our soup-plates.
is
hard
pavilion
there
and with lamp
leisurely
as
with
bridge,
tern
which
on
sunny lotus-pools,
spanning a lake, stands the well-known willow-pat-
And
yet these gardens have a quaintness
winding
paths
conduct
to cleverly con-
and tunnels cut through mossy fern-covered rocks,
some
pavilion
gold-fish
or
sport
theatre,
in
the
on the edge of a glassy

sunshine,
and glistening
c
o
u
a
O
c
c3
P4
CLAN FIGHTS.
frogs
on broad dew-spangled lotus-leaves
gravely
sit
75
or else
where we discover some spacious open saloon, where a party

of native gentlemen,
ebony
chairs,
seated
enjoy a
strumming of a
lute,
on square,
repast
marble-bottomed,
cool,
of tea or cake, or listen to the
and to the
shrill
song of some lady
in
attendance.
who was governor of the province and of Kwangsi as

officer who had seen distinguished service.
A man
of marked ability, who did much to promote the prosperity of
It was he who organised a steam gunboat
the two provinces.
service, which made its presence felt among the pirates on the
Juilin,
was an
well,
and was also instrumental
coast,
Cha-chow-fu,
in
These
at defiance.
villages
When
Chao-chow-fu,
in
sent,
harvest-time
as
one
this,
old
involuntary
village
fighting,
and
feud
emigrants,
or
all
the crops
between
that
One Aching and
to seek for work.
from
their
With
native
visited
off as prisoners
met with a
fate
would dispose of them

to
foreign shores.
and
at
village
raid
Sinchew
upon
I
At
its
found
and a number of
his brother, tired at last of
and of being constantly interrupted
they started
of their style of
would make a midnight
profitable pursuits, resolved to
and there
on
existing
hamlets.
in slavery,
for their captors
neighbour and carry off
smaller
some notion
Those unfortunates who were carried
worse than
be
Kwang-tung province,
in the
war were frequently detained
even
an
authority
all
the other surrounding villages
all
these villages and got
of
fighting.
to
set
clans.
several
of
suppressing the village clans
were each inhabited by one family,
or clan, and were at feud with
and
in
which had for many years
in
more peaceful
go into the Fukien Province,

their bundles
on
place, but halted
their journey to fish in a neighbouring stream.
their
backs
when not
far
While thus
76
engaged,
its
boat
of their enemies carefully disguised,
full
The two
fish.
off
brothers falling into the snare, were thus carried
the hostile village, and there killed and mutilated in an
to
open space
in front of the settlement.
boiled and eaten
out,
that they
quence
by
his
would become more daring and bloodthirsty
of
revolting
this
had made up
deed.
Another
same
the
in
Two men
in
of
spect
of
enquiring
this
The
them
six
pounds
of
crafty
foe.
and
to
They had no
was
it
their
guile.
the provinces, and
all
hesitation
at
the time
In
who
the end a small
refused to
adrift
without
enemy's
the capture
for
accepting the
in
who
army was
come
rag
to
lest
cover
fell
sent into
and obey
came about
to terms,
So
it
visited the place a well-dressed
walk abroad, and no longer fear

sent
for his
their first employer, therefore
the law, were mercilessly put to the sword.

that
a boat.
number of
to receive for his head, at once
on better security, double terms
victim
loot
soon caught their man; but he,
how much they were
them,
proposal,
native
gang, tempted to the crime by the pro-
reward,
liberal
viz.,
presence, hired a
other's
offered
his
conse-
of opposite clans
search of the same object,

the
ruffians to slay him, promising
head and heart.
in
of
war; they, both of them, went to Cheng-lin
time,
hearing
one,
example
minds to quit the province with the
their
they had gained
The
Aching's heart was cut
savage captors, under the notion
treachery and cunning will suffice.
at
made
approach, and one of the crew offered to buy their stock of
man might
he should be stripped and

him,
or
else
be sold into
slavery or even killed.
There
is
a hardy
other districts.
opinion that
they
speak
race
of people
These are known
found
in
as Hak-kas,
this
and several
and some are of
they are a people distinct from the Chinese, as

a
language of their own, and resemble Indians
in
-jV.-!a
;-w
BUDDHIST MONK.
HAK-KAS.
hold
again,
the
that
than
rather
appearance,
physical
Hak-kas
in the
Chinese
the
type.
some
emigrated
ago from the Ning-hwa
years
and a writer
TJ
eight
Others,
hundred
Fukien province
district in the
"China Review" undertakes
to prove
from
the Hak-kas family records that Ning-hwa was really their original
Be
home.
Kwang-tung.
ing
met them
may, they have carved
increasing, multiplying
Formosa.
their industry in the island of
having no sympathies
it
for themselves in the rich province of
place
also
what
origin
their
out an important
in
common
It
and spread-
was they who,
with the Puntis of Canton,
and won a high

They have even been
known to rescue British soldiers, when wounded and drowning,
amid a perfect storm of bullets. Dr. Eitel, who laboured among
them for many years, and who kindly furnished me with some
of his experiences, described them as the hardest workers and
the most industrious men in Kwang-tung and when the interests
formed the Coolie corps to the
reputation
for
allied troops,
perseverance and bravery.
of Hak-kas and Puntis, or natives of the province, clashed, the
former have always distinguished themselves by their readiness

to
For more than
fight.
two
stream of Hak-ka
centuries
emigration has been flowing into the Ka-ying-chow department,

taking
its
course more especially through the mountainous and
thinly populated parts.
The
process,
in
This
couple of Hak-kas
come
when they have
laid
land,
or
up a
cases,
districts
to
cultivate
easily
find
going on.
still
or less as follows.
far
and there they
In process of time,
money, they rent a few acres
little
unredeemed bog.
land
is
more
on the farm.
by robbers and banditti makes
therefore,
is
to a Punti village,
hire themselves out to labour
of mountain
movement
individual
it
The
difficult in
from a
insecurity caused
sparsely populated
village.
The Hak-kas,
landowners willing to rent their outlying
78
acres
thorny
and
families
which they build
cases
nominal
overcome, and
their
for
merely
at
gradually
and
further
All
rate.
are
difficulties
the persevering Hak-kas send
last
and
friends,
down
settle
mud
in
huts,
surrounding them with ditches, with
like forts,
thickets
bamboo.
impenetrable
Success
most
in
hamlet grows rapidly, and a flock of immi-
the
follows,
at
grants from their native province crowd in to plant a settlement
confederation
of
tion
Those
neighbourhood.
the
in
the
among
ground-rent.
demand
acceded
be not
this
If
form
settlements
scattered
themselves, and forthwith
a reduc-
to,
things
progress pleasantly for a short time longer, until the confed-
will
eration feels itself strong
enough
owners and refuse to pay any
wage war with the
to
rent.
original
Government
But, lest the
should interfere, they are careful to inform the mandarins before-
hand that they
many
in
employes
dinate
judge
of their
pay lawful ground-rent to them.
will
offices in the
public
are
Hak-kas.
own
strength,
and to keep
their
intervention.
As
quarrels
this
class
Besides,
Kwang-tung province, the suboralways
This
meet
to
outside
the
of village
enables
intrigue
limits
wars
is
them
to
with intrigue,
Government
of
looked upon as
harmless by the authorities, they only interfere to squeeze both

parties.
The Punti employ bravos
Hak-kas
fight their battles for themselves,
latter
I
now
is
why
the
glance at a quarter of the town which has under-
improvements.
Not
far
from the old factory
close to the river, there stands a

In
and that
always win.
will
gone
to fight for them, while the
row of
1869 these houses had not been
site,
and
well-built brick houses.
built,
and the ground was
occupied by a strange mixed population of the poorest classes.
Too poor
squatted
to
on
live
this
in
boats, or in the houses of the city, they
waste
land between
the
river
and the
wall,
HOVELS.
Some
most of them, nobody knew how.
existing,
in
79
of the hovels
which they dwelt would not have made decent dog-kennels
and
amid
yet,
tented
lot.
gether
out
of
packing-cases
fragments
the
of an
old
boat, bits of foreign
trade-marks
with
inscribed
that
betrayed
history,
patches
of decayed matting, clay,
covering
of odd
tiles
chequered
straw;
all their poverty, they seemed a tolerably conremember one hut which had been pieced to-
snug within.
was found
and broken pottery made
In the small space thus enclosed,
for a lean pig that lived
all
accommodation
on garbage, two old women,
one old man, the old man's daughter and the daughter's
their
mud and
child.
small space in front was arranged as the kitchen, while part
of the roof and one or two pots were taken up with vegetables
or
flowers.
have seen the inmates,
breakfasting
picked up
dwellings
this
in
physician
lived not far off.
as
some
at
if,
served
in
consulted
among
cotton
a
at
and
evidences
old
of
covered
man
found
his
He might be
at his
doorway
in a pair of slippers
ponderous
with
pointed
spectacles
across
this public
and
his
benefac-
an array of black plasters, to
with great pride as incontestable
These
plasters
had a wide
poor patients, and many a man, as a token
of deep gratitude for
dwelt.
with
alive.
still
would be
his professional skill.
among
back as a
and
a very aged look,
had been embalmed and pre-
though
But the door and walls of
abode were
celebrity
the district
and simples, dressed
breeches,
shrivelled nose.
tor's
There were
about the
The doctor had
state,
hours,
his herbs
which the
city.
distant period, he
dried-up
all
morning sunshine,
neighbourhood, and
their perambulations
in
many such
in the
savoury meal of mixed scraps that they had
off a
some
certificate to
signal cure,
had brought
his plaster
adorn the residence where his deliverer
8o
Leaving
of
vince, to have
we
suburbs north of
India,
been founded by Bodhidharama, a Buddhist monk
about the year 520 A.D.
is
It
Bodhidharama
whom
frequently see pictured on Chinese tea-cups, as he ascends
the Yangtsze river on his

in
for the
Mr. Bowra's translation of the native history of the pro-
in
from
striking
we come upon a temple, perhaps

Canton. This is the Temple of 500 Gods
settlements,
the most interesting in

said,
and
quarter,
this
foreign
the
under the
1755,
bamboo
auspices
of
raft.
the
The temple was rebuilt

Emperor Kien-lung. It
contains the Lo-hang-tang, or hall of saints, and with

buildings,
its
houses for priests,
altogether a very large space.
its
lakes and
its
its
temple
gardens, covers
Colonel Yule, in his
last
edition
of Marco Polo, says that one of the statues in this temple
image of the Venetian

statement
pean
incorrect,
type
traveller
for
and
of face,
all
the records connected with
of an antiquity which runs back
The
abbot,
is
an
none of the images present the Euro-
are
who
is
but careful inquiry proves this
beyond Marco Polo's
them
age.
the centre figure in the illustration of a group
of chess-players, received us with great cordiality, and showed us

private apartments, where
into
his
and
cake,
and
some time
spent
we enjoyed
in
a repast of tea
examining a collection of
dwarf trees and flowering shrubs, which he had arranged

court
front
in
of his
stood a tank containing

in full
life
bloom.
in
The
fish,
and a group of sacred
lotus flowers
many
years of his
old gentleman had spent
seclusion and
seemed
to be devoted to his garden, ex-
pressing his delight to find a foreigner

flowers.
The apartments
who
ebony,
tables
or
and
could share in his love of
of this prelate impressed
of cold squareness and rigid uniformity.
and the
in a
sitting-room. In the centre of this court
chairs
were
The
either
ebony and marble combined.
me with
flooring
a sense
was marble,
wholly of marble, or
If
the chairs sent too
a
o
/^
OF THR
BOATWOMEN.
rheumatic a
of
chill
block
through your blood, you could

rock
of polished
hung about the dim
everything scrupulously
when a number of
shaven,
silent,
unbend
if
in
walls; everything
But
clean.
thoughtful-looking
they
snuggery
an
in
leaves.
was
in
we
length
classics
order and
discovered,
joined our party, that the
inmates
of the cloister could
Round
interest
Nay, they conducted us to a
where
court,
embowered beneath
huge waving
was sumptuously
table
plantain-trees and shaded
by
their
a lotus-pool, in the centre of this
ran a paved pathway, and an ornamental railing, draped
court,
with
inner
one or two
and take a natural and ardent
chose,
the current gossip of Canton.
spread,
at
monks had
the
comfort
test the
in the corner, or try
Sundry texts from the sacred
cold glazed porcelain stools.
were
green
the
monks engaging
I took my way
graph
of the
Here we
of a creeping plant.
leaves
their venerable
abbot
in a
game
the
left
at chess, while
to the interior of the shrine to obtain a photo-
altar.
I
found a number of people at
worship within, making votive offerings to the idols whose aid
they sought. Some ladies were there, decked in their finest
silks
gave
my
and
would
have
me
central
entrance so startled these
fled
but
for
a high character, as
had wisely come from

temple
in all
and
streets,
feet,
passing
fragrant
many
crew of the
boatwomen
one
in
search of knowledge,
its
to the river through
third-rate
tea
wonders home.
narrow tortuous
establishments, where
them about with
in the sun,
we
at length
their
embark
craft consists of three
are the prettiest and
young
girls,
men
naked
in
small boats which ply for hire at the jetties.

little
who
who
an obscure island to view the greatest
leaves and toss
on mats spread out
of the
devotees, that they
Cathay, and to carry pictures of
Wending our way back

mix the
fair
the intervention of the priests,
one
The
and these
most attractive-looking of their

6
82
met with out of doors
to be
sex
never paint, and are therefore set
although
them,
as
simple
skimming
dexterity,
town of
floating
trade
brisk
is
form
carried on in
bows of
the
their
thoroughfares
the
in tens of
great
the
in
thousands pursue
from the dwellers on shore.
many
of these narrow avenues,
the small merchants who engage
and
row with
or
scull
where natives
boats,
their various avocations, quite apart
hire
and out among the crowd of shipping, or
in
ways that
narrow
the
along
They
picturesque.
is
it
who may
perfection of neatness, and their dress as
are the
boats
Their
some of
really true of
is
They
China.
countrywomen
behave with uniform modesty and decorum.
they
boats,
their
their
of Europeans
presence
the
in
down by
This
respectabiUty.
doubtful
of
as
in this part of
in
it
have their shops
boat and their residences at the stern.
business happens to be dull at one end of the town they
in
If
move
to the other, or else take a tour in the provinces, carrying their
whole
establishment
balmy
air,
to
and where they
region
where the family can enjoy

the hearts of the rustics
will delight
with their display of city wares.

clear of a floating
Steering
of
It
is
boats
head
elaborate
the
produce a very striking
above the
high
representations
beauties
on
Through the
pretty
sels
in
one of the main alleys
in
of a
front
row of
flower-
growing dark, and the numerous lamps which hang round
these
its
market
we come
floating music-saloons of this quarter of the stream.
the
boats,
Babel,
aquatic
this
earth
water,
eftect.
and
is
Each saloon
rears
carved into the most
of the animal and vegetable world, of

or
the
wonders
interstices of the carving
in the
heavens above.
we can make
out
some
female faces, and suddenly a crowd of fine young dam-
rise
above
the ornaments.
the
woodwork, looking
like a continuation
of
Suddenly they again disappear, as a gay group
Chinese Pagoda, Kwanglung Province.
JUNKS.
83
of youths in silken robes step out of a boat and pass into the
nearest
saloon.
Then we hear
the warble of the lute and the
treble
tones; for these maidens have
damsels piping
in
descended from
their
shrill
perch above and are entertaining the city
who have come
youths,
like
back
Pulling
their
this
enamel
to crack the
frowning hulks of a
moored
in
in
front
tempt
to
fleet
what
scare
to describe
saloon,
to
enjoy a
seem
for the crew, but they redouble
got
and soon we are
Here we pass close under the dark

of old weather-beaten junks that
lie
As everyone already knows
all
they look
off the
man hab
"Plenty piecee bad
a long double line.
about these junks
the
likee cut throat pidjin,"
mid-stream.
in
in
smiles so sweet, that they
off the faces of the fair damsels.
hard work
muchee
too
once more
in
for as they say,
efforts,
side,
is
dine
to
whiff of opium and to bask
like,
demons
them here
with their big eyes set
of the deep
but
may
need not
at-
inform the reader that
the accompanying picture of the deck of a junk was one which

cost
me some
trouble
Two
circumstances.
pulling about
to obtain.
artistic
got
Hongkong harbour,
in
under the following
it
and myself were one day
friends
quest of a good subject for
a picture, and after having scrambled by the aid of a convenient

rope,
on to the deck of a junk
crew busy with

lasses,
at
anchor there, we found the
complex machinery of ropes, poles and windand indeed on the point of making sail. Suddenly they
a
forsook their work, confronted us with angry gestures and threat-
ened
whom
these
to
bar
there
junks
our
are
are
advance.
not
built
We
enquired for the captains, of
uncommonly
in
half a
water-tight
dozen on board
owner of cargo is a captain so far as concerns

ment where his own goods have been separately
if
for
compartments, and each

that compartstored.
Thus
the compartments be six, the captains are six, and each cap-
84
tain
has
The
result
sixth
of the vessel under his
part
of this
equitable
arrangement
sometimes required to travel

taneously,
in
and to stand
is
own command.
consult
moved,
there
Joss,
though
for six different points at a time
who
stands
tempests
in
his
As
rage.
it
shrine
and
own
hands, or
in the
cabin un-
happened
in
our case
were but two captains on board, the one anxious to be
civil
and the other ready to pitch us
they
requested
Joss.
is
six different directions simul-
in
the end the crew take the steering into their
else
the craft
that
The
idol,
us
it
to
remain,
appeared,
while
gave
into the sea.
At length
they referred the case to

us
a hearty
welcome, for
captains and crew returned from the interior to unite in helping
me
to get
up a successful picture.
CHAPTER
CANTON
The
(Continued).
VI.
MACAO. SWATOW. CHAO-CHOW-FU. AMOY.
Macao Description of the Town Foreign Settlement Chao-chow-fu Swatow
Charitable Institutions of China

Its
inhabitants- -Swatow
Fan-painters
Modellers Chinese
Native Quarter Abodes of the Poor
Remains
in Jars
Art Village Warfare Amoy The

Infanticide Manure-pits Human
Lekin Romantic Scenery
Ku-lang-su The Foreign
Settlement.
The
but
charitable institutions of China are far from numerous,
At the time of
ill-organised as a rule.
my
visit
and
an estab-
lishment under Chinese supervision, and supported entirely out

of Chinese funds, was about to be opened in Canton for relieving the
The
act
and
sick
intention of
the
influence
and supplying
destitute,
its
of
founders, so
the
it
is
coffins to the poor.
supposed, was to counter-
hospitals and charities supported
by
the foreign Christian Missions in their city.
But when
a
left
Canton the place was
still
unopened, although
house had already been bought, which had been occupied as
a private residence by Pun-ting-qua, the last of the

chants,
fiscated
whose property,
by Government.
as
Hong mer-
have said already, had been con-
This
house was one of the
finest
86
have seen
China, and
in
some notion
veyed
magnificent costly decorations con-
its
great weahh, which had
of Pun-ting-qua's
been quietly absorbed by the authorities.
Among
the
charities
These
sort of
found
in
aged and
management of
to
he
so
allowance,
some
us,
her
as
has
must
she
pay
are
only visited
have to say about

the
which the poor
nursed on the slenthe
"China Review." One wet

be
herself
only
is
Village.
interesting details as to
times as
at
hospital, in
in the
this hospital,
tells
and
feed,
Leper
also institutions for
at its door, are
left
Dr. Kerr gave
fare.
nurse,
There are
and a foundling
infirm,
what
shall reserve
page.
who may be
children,
derest
future
for
is
men and women
quarters of the Empire, but as
various
one place of the kind,
them
Canton there
in
asylums for plague-stricken
many
as three infants
reduced
to starvation
about eight shillings a month.
Many of the nurslings die, as might be expected, while those

who survive are sold for about three shillings apiece. It is
mostly female children who are brought to this benevolent
institution, for girls are
poor parents
to
give
in
birth
esteemed nothing but encumbrances to
who ought
China, the reproach of their mothers,
to
boys alone.
These foundlings are bought by
the wealthy and brought up as servants or concubines
they are disposed of to designing hags,

speculation
and reserve them
for a
custom
of
investing
as speculative
rearing
them
carefully
a high market value,

in slaves
over
but
which
Chinese
persuade
emigration
is
girls
in
till
is
more miserable
fate.
property,
their personal attractions will
soil.
The
the
Chinese
by any means
evil
traffic
shame or concealment
might be mitigated
Government
in their
This
and of
command
one of the worst aspects of that
carried on without
or else
who purchase them on
to
if
all
we could
encourage
female
power, more particularly to
MACAO.
87
those lands where as yet only males have found their
Besides
China.
are
Africa,
for
example
where,
with
and children around them, a congenial climate, and a
wives
rich
unknown
almost
yet
as
way from
countries in which the Chinese
are
there
this
with produce, which they have been ac-
cultivate
to
soil
customed to grow, vast

might
be
tracts of the waste lands of the earth
Thus would the parent
redeemed.
and
colonised
country be relieved from the pressure of over-population, which
and
been
has
hitherto
mainly kept
check by famine, infanticide
in
war.
civil
Macao
is
interesting as the only Portuguese settlement to be
may be
found
on
either
from Hongkong or Canton, and
coast of China.
the
It
own
resort for the residents of our
it
little
is
reached by steamer
a favourite
colony.
summer
In that pretty
we may enjoy the cool sea-breezes, and almost

when promenading the broad Praya Grande, as it sweeps
watering-place
fancy,
round
bay
picturesque,
truly
to
magnificent
curiosity
right to be there at
the
to
in
all
on
Portuguese,
properly
barrier-wall
the
shut out the foreigners.

since the time of
its
own
ruled
legitimate
by the
its
built
is
it
These
services,
for
are
isthmus
in
The
But
it
has no
whereas
was ceded
in
1573, built
on which the town stands, to
place has had a chequered history
Government, and
passages
however, cannot have
Chinese
the
original foundation,
Chinese.
it
soil
return for services rendered to the
its
the parent country, had better be
there
on Chinese
allege that the site
part,
in
appreciated,
across
The Chinese say
way.
its
that
their
Government of China.
been
King of Portugal
the
we have been suddenly

Macao is a
that
some ancient continental town.
transported
which
sometimes being under
at others
history,
left
alone,
reflect
being claimed and
however important to
more
no great
especially as
lustre
on the
THROUGH CHINA WITH A CAMERA
88
whom Camoens
nation
strange
of
The main
adorned.
Macao
streets in
The houses there are painted in a variety of

colours, some of the windows being fringed with a rim
deserted.
are
them the look of inflamed eyes
which gives
red,
cheeks
painted
But
dwellings.
the
of
in the
magnificent
are
there
wide doorways and vast halls, though the inmates

most part are a very diminutive race; they are called
Portuguese, but they suffer by comparison with the more recent
staircases,
the
for
from the parent
arrivals
kind,
on
going
trade
is
and
land, being darker than the
Portuguese
There
and darker even than the native Chinese.
of Europe,
the
but
streets,
of
is
very languid
or the cathedral are the chief
gambling-houses,
the
it
places of resort.
forts are, of course, garrisoned with troops
The
or thereabouts, the settlement
At 4 p.m.
the
whirl
along
their
occupants
Praya
struggle shorewards, that
chairs
and the mid-day
sea-breeze;
the
taste
Grande have been converted

Ladies
promenade.
fashionable
lightest
the
of
solitudes
sedan
road;
may
from Europe.
wakes up; carriages
are
there
too,
into
in the
attired
costumes and the gayest colours; some of them pretty,
but the majority sallow-faced and uninteresting, and decked out

with
ribbons
moniously
painter
and
could
have
munity so wanting
seem
to
be
no
than
diminutive.
of
those
so
men
many
are
But
and the
if
only
here,
tints
are
at
of his days
among
one
inhar-
The young men
is
the
com-
for there
least all dress alike, quite
a slender race, but not
Macao
so
wonders how Chinnery
in artistic tastes.
old
irrespective of years
settlement,
one
that
spent
gaudy
whose
dresses,
contrasted,
more slender
interesting as a Portuguese
which now remains to Portugal
which her early traders founded
boast of historic associations, giving
it
in
China,
a special
it
can also
and independent
Approach
to
Buddhist Temple, Macao,
SWATOW.
89
Here the poet Camoens found
attraction.
a retreat,
and here
Chinnery produced a multitude of sketches and paintings,
too,
have
which
had
some
influence
next
place
on our route northward, and to
really
on
art
south
the
in
of China.
Swatow
reach
steamer from Hongkong.
take
daily a service of steamers
almost
you,
tell
the
is
we
it
The
Chinese coast.
of
coasts
the
must
merchandise, supplied by these vessels,
of a kind not easily surpassed
are
is,
splendid passenger accommodation and the
conveying
for
facilities
There
up and down the
they
and
navigate
and considering the nature

dangerous typhoons to
the
which they are exposed, very few accidents occur.
Swatow
of the city Chao-chow-fu, which
port
the
is
Chao-chow-fu ought
the province of Kwang-tung.
for foreign trade, but this idea
been an entrepot
in
built
is
upon the
banks
through which that river flows
Swatow has
province.
the
is
the
Han,
clans.
and the
one of the most
The
district
the
fertile in
a harbour available even for vessels of
and
tonnage;
largest
is
of
in
have
was given up
consequence of the turbulence of the surrounding
town
lies
really to
so
far as
that point goes the place
better suited to foreign trade than Chao-chow-fu would have
been
foreign
barren
planted up and
semble
river,
The
rather
upon a low
cinder-looking
ordinary
positions
great
scriptions
the
or
settlement,
perched
are
up the
lighters of a shallow draught.
for the latter place stands
and can only be reached by
in
range
hills
the residences of foreigners, are

of
hills,
of Aden.
which remind one of the
Huge boulders
of granite
these hilly slopes in the most extra-
some
are
Chinese
of
thirty miles
down
obelisks.
productions
some
Not
like Druidical circles, others re-
unfrequently,
too,
they bear
characters, which are nothing
natives,
who have sought
in-
more than
to gain an un-
90
profitable
immortality by graving their names, or their poetical
effusions,
or
record
else
and many of the native ones
combined with
hardens
the
stony
this
than they could earn by

to
of
sort
receiving
coolies,
re-
tilling
labour but
are to
little
all
more
the soil or drawing water; and
themselves for their tasks, they must undergo what
fit
they squat on the
and a
remarkable,
work
artistic
their
for
fine art training, at least to a
less
flowers in endless variety and profusion.
The men who execute

appearance
no
adorned with beautiful stucco cornices,
and
birds
compound
of time this
producing solid and durable
substance,
interiors of these dwellings are
ceilings are
presenting
is
are built with a local concrete,
process
In
shell-lime.
into
The
walls.
yet,
too,
upon the
incident
local
Here the foreign houses
of the felspar clay which abounds in the neighbourhood,
made
for
some
of
of these stones.
surface
imperishable
with a hod
floor,
When
Chinaman.
at
work
of stucco before them,
full
On
sort of small baking-board at their feet.
this board,
with their fingers and a trowel, they model flower after flower
stems, foliage, fruit and
all
besides
birds of one or
two kinds;
passing the portions, as they complete them, up to a workman,
whose
sort,
is
is
all
Of the
more
from
are
group the
settlement of
less like the
number
perhaps
of
repaired
the
in
bits together,
used, no
are
wooden
and
fix
them
pattern of any
in
Swatow
need only say that
the south of China
but
Swatow
it
or Fatshan,
cannot refrain
fan-painters.
There
of fan-shops in the main street, and one which
more
celebrated
others
the
river quarters of Canton,
introducing the reader to the

a
any
to
done with the unaided hand and eye.
native
or
is
it
No moulds
any other town
or
is
business
position.
in
can
for
the
beauty
of
To
this
pretend to be.
its
work than
shop, then,
company of an English merchant, whose warm
o
o
to
35
^^
OF THK
'^
UNIVERSITY
siCALIfOR^
FAN-PAINTERS.
proved him
hospitality
associates
his
most beautiful and
We
were
most
to be introduced to the artists,
back
the
at
Two
in
smokers
and
were
paintings
I
have
able
were
we
then,
good,
found three occupants.
were,
all
most
that their
of them, opiumfinely imaginative
As
produced by these men were remark-
and that because the drawing and perand
Chinese
find
Asking
apartment
under the influence of the drug.
executed
beauty,
their
for
me
struck
said, the pictures
spective
They
opium-pipe.
it
into an
the third lay stretched on a couch,
while
fans,
an
indulging
was shown
have ever come
before a table, engaged in designing on the
were seated
unpainted
yet
shown some of the
garden scenes.
part,
premises, where
the
of
here
delicate fan-painting that
representing, for the
across,
no exception to the majority of
to be
China.
in
91
the
designs
and
pure
art
full
Here,
of delicacy.
simple, without the ad-
Hongkong and my opinion

we are apt to suppose
But then we must bear in mind that
the Chinese to possess.
after all we do not know much about China and her art.
It
was only the other day, when in Peking, that I picked up one
mixture of any foreign element, as
is
or
that
two
it
in
a higher class of art than
is
old
pictures
had formed part of the collection
which
of a private Chinese gentleman, and that alone gave

favourable opinion
of,
at
any
rate,
me
more
the ancient school of Chinese
artists.
One specimen,
dren
its
at
play,
a series of original sketches representing chil-
was
clever execution
tious
than
attached
have
to
of
a
the
humour as for
more preten-
quaint
pen-and-ink sketches.
book, the
his
its
yet the pictures are nothing
unelaborated
made up
illustrative
as remarkable for
;
portfolio
four
artist
of
seasons
modestly
twelve
tells
In a postscript
his readers,
sketches,
"I
consecutively
of the year, beginning with a
92
representation of
snow
of the
ing
New
Year
and ending with the draw-
festivities,
though
and,
lion;
cannot
pretend to the
bygone days, perhaps I may aspire

Written on the 4th day
to six or seven tenths of their talent.
of the 4th month of the year Woo-shin, by Se Hea of Hangchow." There can be no doubt that art has declined in China,
and this the Chinese themselves confess, as the above note will
of the artists of
perfection
China expend large sums of money
cultivated classes in
lecting the
and
in col-
works of the ancient masters, which they carefully

of these old paintings have been executed on
Many
preserve.
silk
ourselves, the wealthy
as with
Moreover,
show.
to
serve
scrolls,
and thus a Chinese picture gallery
is
quite unlike
to see, for the pictures are not
framed
and exposed on the walls, but are kept carefully rolled
up and
what we should expect
protected against the light and

is
known
well
pictures which
ing
remarks on
friend Mr. Wylie,
He
this point.
who,
some
we
century
third
when he had
flies
to
who
when examining several old

had brought from Peking, made some interest-
"Many
said,
anecdotes are on
regarding the achievements of the old masters.
hand
the
My
air.
to Eastern scholars,
the
told of
finished
in
a screen for
by a few touches of the pencil here

gratification at seeing his Majesty take up a
his
handkerchief to drive these
flies
away.
Not
flourished about A.D. 1000,
HwanTseuen, who
Thus,
Tsaou Puh-ying,
the Emperor, added
painter,
picture
and there great was

;
are
less celebrated
was
and who introduced
several pheasants into a mural decoration in one of the halls of
the palace.
falcons,
Some
who had brought
foreign envoys,
were ushered
into this hall
a tribute of
and no sooner did the birds
of prey get sight of the pheasants on the wall than they

precipitate
ment of
dart
their
at their
victims,
more of course
made
to the detri-
heads than to the satisfaction of their appetites.
"
CHAO-CHOW-FU.
Between Swatow and Chao-chow-fu
day stripped
hot
93
have met wayfarers on
to the skin, every article of their clothing
bound around the head, and thus marching

without the slightest
ance
sense
along, to
all
appear-
The higher
of impropriety.
one ascends the Han the more savage-looking are the people
we encounter
pressed
and
chow-fu
happily, the clan-fights had been sup-
there, but,
peace
re-established
the
in
At Chao-
province.
got up one morning before daybreak, to photograph
an old bridge across the river there, and

being so early
astir,
fondly thought that
mob
should get clear of the city
but as
happened, there was a market held on the top of the bridge,
it
and even before
it
was quite
were pouring
long trains of produce-laden
light,
from every
side.
I
had just time to
show myself and take a photograph, when a howling multitude
came rushing down to where I stood near my boat on the shore.
coolies
Amid
still
my
shower of missiles
and presenting
arm,
which
contains
my
the
many
river
camera, with the
iron-pointed tripod to the rapidly
backed into the
spans
great
my
took the apparatus under
inside,
Chao-chow-fu bridge
boat.
chow,
foe,
unscrewed
undeveloped photograph
approaching
the
in
river
and scrambled on board
not unlike the one at Foo-
is
Min.
It
is
built
of stone and
arches, or rather square spaces for the
On each side of the causeway above,

row of houses has been erected, and these project beyond
the parapets and overhang the stream for as much as threepassage of boats beneath.
fourths
part
of their
entire
upon the bridge; while

a
series
buttresses
the
depth.
There seems, indeed,
to be
no
of each house, except the brick wall in front, which rests
of
as to the fabric
itself,
it
is
held up by
long poles, which abut upon the projections of the
below,
and thus serve
under-props of a bracket.
support the dwelling
like
This was what one would
call
to
94
break-neck sort of architecture, and yet the great market of

find the dwellthe town is held on this bridge, and there we
There they trade and

shall drop
ing-houses and shops of the merchants.
they
there
them and
calmly awaiting the hour which
sleep,
their
frail
had other means
wooden
down at
each
night
open
is
attempt
the
occasions
need hardly
has
when
rabble, said quietly,

it
is
the
slender
let
say, universally successful.
trade,
been made
it
Vice-consul
the
visit
He,
place.
two
and on one or two

a British
establish
to
has always been a
Tur-
failure.
continually stone foreigners, and during the time
mobs
my
foreign
to
Consulate in the town; but
of
hang
archway
to deter malignant spirits from passing beneath
Chao-chow-fu
bulent
But they
grave.
safety both for property and
frames, and these barriers the householders piously
dwellings a device,
their
ensure
to
between
Suspended
Ufe.
muddy
tenements into a
still
was the only European
him how
told
"You
are
in
the
had been attacked by the
no worse
off than
your neighbours
what every white man must expect at the hands of

So I was not sorry when I
lawless ruffians of the town."
just
Kwang-tung, and descended

sees an increase in the
year
Every
once more to Swatow.
number of emigrants who leave this part of China to work on
my
turned
plantations
the
ebb,
in
this part of
Siam, Cochin China, or the Straits, and
sure that the price of labour in China
may be
a
back upon
when we
month,
are
find that wages, running
to
in
we
very low
from two to four dollars
poor, esteemed sufficient to enable
invest
at a
the inducement held out to allure the coolies
all
from their homes; and that such a sum as

toiling
is
up
into
this
with
force
of
is,
by the
to save
money
even
on
their
return to their native land.
region
that
Juilin
farm
was
this
them
2,000
men.
This
It
sent a military mandarin

officer,
at the
time of
my
SWABOI.
was known
visit,
approaching
the district as Chao-Yang.
in
and
completion
peace
and prosperity
many
previous
inharmonious
Fang-Yao,
pursued
designation,
His task was
consequently more of
country than had been
in the
years.
was
there
system
in the
conduct of
rights.
Thus,
at the village of
lot for
its
was the mandarin's
for
that
rough
and ready sort of
operations for putting matters to
his
Go-swa, near Double Island, he
man named Kwin-Kwong,
seized a
95
known
well
and
to foreigners,
required him to surrender 200 of the chief rebels of his village,
Kwin-Kwong produced
nocent substitutes
threats
many
100,
of them, poor wretches, in-
Under pressure and
the true offenders.
more victims were ultimately given
few
for
whole were then beheaded, Kwin-Kwong's own
number
into the pile to swell the
been bloody work
more than
capitated during Fang-Yao's
Swaboi,
years
of the sufferers.
It
must have
memorable march.
miles
the
villages in the province,
from
distant
monopolised
has
and the
,000 are said to have been de-
most powerful
the
of
two
about
stands
many
one
up,
skull being tossed
Swatow,
supply
to
right
and
for
coolies to
that town.
Several
Swaboi,
its
years ago, seventeen other villages combined against
and resolved by
monopoly of
ated in
force,
if
The war
labour.
favour of Swaboi.
necessary, to put a stop to
lasted four years,
At such times the
and termin-
villagers practise
the most heartless cruelties on each other, burying their enemies,

for
example,
while
prepared with
district
that
the
some
exposed outside a
passers-by
and
and head downwards,

earth.
was,
It
in
indeed,
graves
in
this
gathered a notion of the inhuman treatment of
idiots practised in
idiot
alive,
still
quicklime
to
feed
parts of China.
village in a
him,
or
wooden
better
myself have seen an

cage, and there
still
to starve
left
and
for
die.
96
I
went a second time
afterwards
to see this being that looked
more brute than man, but he had died
Amoy
though situated
resemble
open
next
the
is
entrance of the harbour
and one of these boulders which faces
some passages connected with
engraven
place
the
huge
in
hills
to be seen at the
crowned with huge granite bare boulders, are

the port, has
and
geological features
its
Thus the same decomposing
Swatow.
of
cage.
in his
our northern route
in
province of Fukien,
in the
those
port
characters
the local history of
upon
its
stony sides.
Several of them rear their grey heads to a great height out of

or
water,
the
above the shore close by, and these the natives
up to with reverence and awe, as objects intimately con-
look
nected
with
Feng-shui, or good luck of the port.
the
such a place as
this
it
the lower and most superstitious classes.
good
soldiers,
so
at least
it
is
said
in
for their
independence, and were the
and those upon
whom
To
this
The Amoy men make
they certainly fought well
invaders,
pressed most heavily.
But
but seldom that good luck waits upon
is
last
to yield to the Tartar
the conquerors
seemed
to
have
day they wear the turban which
they assumed to hide the tonsure and queue imposed on them
The
by the conquerors.
spoken
in
once
were
Canton
with
to
dialect here
lead
my
more out of China and
a glimpse of the
in
as
is
so different from that
boys to imagine that they

in
some
foreign realm. But
town quickly reassured them.
men from
their
own
There they
fell
province, and with odours and ap-
pearances so unmistakably Chinese that there was no getting over
and
they
soon acknowledged that
the
fact;
still
be no other than their
own Chinese
this
land.
Swatow and most other Chinese seaport towns,

the
native
seers,
all
quarter
eager
to
are huddled together like a
stand
in
the
front
indeed could
At Amoy, as
in
the houses in
crowd of
sight-
row along the water's
Buddhist Temple, Amoy.
AMOY.
Many
edge.
dilapidation
length
of
of these dwellings are in a sad state of decay and
and
the
mud
of
rocking
the long, dark, narrow street which runs the
settlement
worn and loose

pits
97
is
paved with cross
and
thus,
if
a shower of most offensive dirt
flag,
Mangy dogs and
fat
and
we
disturb their occupations
onions.
Nor were
garbage.
nearly
every
viting
thoroughfares,
more
the
splashed up over
is
lean pigs yelp and grunt as
these are the sanitary authorities
of the locality and to them the duty
strolling
treacherous
Every second shop reeks with a smell of roasting
one's clothes.
and
in
placed hastily on the
be
foot
of stone so
flags
most part
that they rest for the
these
when
occasion
falls
to clear
my way
waded
up the refuse
inconveniences
only
the
on
along the unin-
blocked
at
some point by
band of players, hired to perform
in
public by one of
found
liberal-spirited
it
The approach
tradesmen.
to the foreign
merchants' establishments can hardly be accounted better than the
Chinese
alley
offices themselves,
when
miserable
which
have just described
the difficulty of reaching
come, are found to be venerable structures,

produce beneath, and showing
of
all
filled
but the
them
with
is
over-
all
sorts
the evidences of business
above.
The
of this port has grown, and
trade
growing, just
is
in
developed,
The
late
and
transfer
its
of
tea,
to
the
Japanese
pretty
duties
the
may
will
find
it
alter the
profitable
produce to the nearest markets on the Chinese mainland.
The import
is
likely to continue
sugar and other products increase.
Formosa
conditions of trade, although the Japanese

to ship
is
proportion as the rich island of Formosa opposite
trade and the distribution of foreign goods inland,
effectually
levied
at
the
choked
off
by the
illegal
system of
transit
various stations, and regulated chiefly
need or avarice of the
by
local officials at the various points

7
98
There
along the route.
imposed as
originally
subject,
The American Consul, in writing on the

"At Swatow the local taxes levied on imports
said:
remain unchanged
can
war tax on foreign goods, and never
withdrawn.
since
they
also a grievous charge called Lekin,
is
are
that
to say, about one-fortieth of
is
Amoy;" and
in
bring foreign goods overland from
still
and
districts,
sell
them
in
cheaper
Amoy."
Swatow
rate than
of
or
chief,
break
1853
of
this
affair
for
in-
The "small knife"

Amoy. The rebel
dagger society was said to be a
Chinaman of the name of Tan-keng-chin.
was,
in
fact,
development of one
The
out-
of the secret so-
have been a source of continual trouble to
that
cieties
was a serious
ringleader,
Singapore
Amoy
they were
This Lekin tax was
'
or of the "small knife" rebellion, or both.

rebellion
to the
if
defray the expenses either of the Taiping rebellion
to
stituted
at
imported and sold direct
what
he goes on to observe "that natives
all
the
countries into which Chinese labour has flowed.

In
1864,
months
few
the Imperialists, and
King was
a
final
in
the
The
same
Nankin
fell
relationship to
eventually
struggle
and
into the
hands of
Tien-Wang or Heavenly
remnant of his followers made
last
and captured Chang-chow-fu, a
was
place
after
the cause of
but crushed, the
all
effort
protracted
when
Amoy
as
city
which stands
Chao-chow-fu to Swatow.
retaken by the Imperialists after a
this
barbarous
war was then closed,
amid scenes of cold-blooded massacre as inhuman as any

have stained the annals of the Taiping
revolt,
that
whose overthrow
was brought about by foreign intervention, and by one or two

powerful
towns.
decisive
Alas
Report on
blows
dealt
at
the strongholds of the rebel
these successes were but too frequently followed
Amoy and
the Island of Formosa, by A.
W. Le Gendre.
AMOY NATIVES.
PRIMITIVE SOLDIER.
ov THi:
UNIVERSITY
'
AMOY HOSPITAL.
up by
slaughter,
indiscriminate
those
for
which a weak government seeks to
99
are
the
means by
strike terror into the hearts
of the people.
Occurrences such as that which
am now
The
were accordingly by no means rare.

the
was ended and

It
was reported
conqueror that there were 254 heads and 231 queues
the
to
were reckoned up.
victory
of the
fruits
about to describe
fight
and ears of people supposed to be rebels at any rate, they

were heads and ears and queues, and these the Imperialist troops
;
at the feet of the authorities.
had to lay
man who
reported
his
were
certainly
June 1875.
had both ears chopped

Mr. Hughes again
icide
conclusion
Mr.
spot.
the
another paper, that female infant-
of a
child,
infants in each
speculator
at the
or
Fukien province than
about
in
made on
a stout well-to-do-looking
the
man
carrying two neat and clean round baskets,
class,
two
cash,
in
this part of the
Hughes one day met
old
burden
who
and part of the scalp carried away.
on a pole which he bore across
cry
"China Review" for
enjoying good health
myself had come to from enquiries
of the coolie
slung
us,
in the
man
quarter of the Empire, and this corroborates the
any other
in
tells
off
perhaps worse in
is
how
myself saw
head had been nearly severed
Hughes
have also seen a
who succeeded in reaching Amoy. There

marks of a severe wound on the neck, similar
described by Mr.
those
his
that
astonishing
is
Thus
but
body,
from
to
It
of these mutilated wretches survived.
some
his shoulder.
stopped him, when
basket;" and
innocents
it
is
was on
"Hearing
found that he had
recorded that this crafty

his
way
to sell his living
Foundling Hospital, where he would receive 100

fivepence,
for
a female child,
and as much as
three pounds for a boy.
This Foundling Hospital was organised by a native merchant
lOO
whom
had the pleasure of meeting, and
that the prospect of receiving fivepence
it
will
is
a lamentable fact
tempt a mother to
part with her babe.
The Amoy Hospital

obtain
that
in
he can deposit suitable credentials as to
One
ability.
me
however, conducted on rather more
Canton for if any one wishes to

here free of charge, provided
one
get
may
he
child,
is,
than that
liberal principles
he
that
dren of
his
own
respect-
informed
missionaries
Christian
resident
of the
convinced that 25 per cent of the female chilwere destroyed at birth. The natives themselves
felt
Amoy
of this crime, and
make no
secret
confessed
to having
saw one old woman who
three of her daughters in
made away with
They excuse their misdeeds on the ground of extreme poverty, and they certainly are poor and wretched to a
succession.
degree
The
had no conception of before
district
around
is
visited their abodes.
naturally barren and unproductive,
and
plundering raids of rebel and Imperial troops crippled the energies of the
War,
needy inhabitants.
it
is
true,
has thinned the
population, but not to such an extent as materially to affect
its
density.
An
able-bodied
man
can here earn only fivepence a day, and
skilled
workmen, of whom there are many, are paid about
pence
per
quarter
of
the
town,
this
filth
to
or
is
fertilise
their
trade
great
rather in
of manure,
and preparation
farmers
There
diem.
which
poor lands.
all
sorts
is
thrown,
and
on
eight-
in
one
a suburb, in the collection

is
afterwards
sold
The people who
commodity dwell on the edge of the

of
carried
foul pits into
to
the
deal in
which
for the use of the hovels in
which they reside many of them pay about fivepence a month

Close to this spot is a hill on which the poor are
in rent.
buried.
There
is
no lack of recent graves, but
all
such are
UNSEPULCHRED SKELETONS.
covered
How
the
who
can
looked
mixed with fragments of
lime,
keep
to
people
here
subsist
wonder
at
in
it,
it
is
at
all,
extreme
the
in
their ragged lean occupants
and
were
filthy
pitching
pebbles into the pools, or chasing the
and pariah dogs to prevent them from eating up the only
pigs
article of trade
in
the locality.
There was another

the harbour.
On
this
containing a skeleton
hill
not far
off,
and commanding a view of
found a row of glazed earthen pots, each
one had been broken and the bones lay
number of
scattered over the face of the rock, while a
were
reUcs, over
degradation
the
What mean
catch-ball with the skull.
playing
honoured
ing
they were single-
Often they contained
sod.
and yet numerous children were to be seen
running about,
numbers, and
in great
an atmosphere that smells so putrid.
roomed huts reared above the naked

no furniture
and pottery,
Judging from
hard to say!
they must die
one or two of the dwellings
into
glass
and dogs from digging up the bodies.
pigs
of graves
multitude
the
with
order
in
lOI
children
these dis-
which some Ezekiel might prophesy, lamentof
people.^
his
These are the
remains
deposited here to await interment a ceremony which can only
be properly accomplished by attending to the times and places
which the professors of Feng-shui may prescribe.
many
of
unsepulchred
these
resting-place
skeletons
will
more hallowed than the pots
in
But alas too

!
never
know any
which they were
There they crumble, unfriended and forgotten,

surviving kinsmen are perhaps themselves cut off from
originally stored.
for their
the land, or else too poor to pay the expenses of the for ever
deferred burial
true
rites.
Now,
then,
my
readers can appreciate the
motives of a Chinaman, who, as
devote his earnings to the purchase of a
and
burial site in anticipation,
many
have already
coffin,
said, will
funeral raiment
years before his death.
I02
My
the
sketch
true
Amoy
has thus far been a dark one, and yet
not
without some glances of Hght striking
of
picture
is
down even into the lowest quarters

of my many perambulations I came
dark
where
lane,
engaged
in
of the town.
to a very
in
one
found the humble tenants of the houses
what, to me, was quite a
and children were
Thus,
narrow and very
busily
all
new
occupied
Men, women
industry.
the manufacture of
in
most beautiful artificial flowers, from a pith obtained in Formosa,

from the same plant {Aralia papyrifera) as that out of which
rice-paper
so-called
the
made,
is
entered shop
after shop,
and everywhere found thousands of flowers spread out on trays,

and each one so lifelike that it might almost be mistaken for
nature
roses,
But
herself.
and
the
were
hands
at
work here
too,
grew up with wonderful
The workshops
beneath them.
ity
tiny
azaleas and camelias
lilies,
and
celer-
are the dwellings, the offices
of each firm, or family; and the workers
warehouses
are so closely packed that strangers not unfrequently

must watch the process, or make a purchase, by taking up a
within
position
outside.
man
in
and he asked
security
him
if I
for
me
bought a great many of these flowers from
mean shop
a very
for
wished.
securities
him a few
lent
and though
There are many wealthy
good
in
style
and
and beyond the town.
in
On
and monastic establishments,
among
Chinese merchants
feet
above the
in
superior houses on the
those
hills,
built in the
plain.
him, he
most scrupulous honesty.
too,
we may
Amoy, who
hills
above
find temples
most romantic situations
great granite boulders which tower in
hundred
poor,
dollars without troubling
knew nothing about
carried out the transaction with the
live
He was extremely
indeed.
an advance of money, offering to furnish
some
places
many
Thus from the rock on which the
"White Stag" monastery stands one
obtains a
commanding view
FORMOSA.
harbour and island of Ku-lang-su.
of the
town,
lang-su
that
houses
environed
in
the
European
Some
same
quarter,
ship
reside
It
on Ku-
is
and
there the
and not
are
also
established
there
for
unfittingly,
in
wide
is
so benighted and so woe-
field
Amoy.
From Amoy
over
crossed
the harbour
left
missions
Christian
mission labour in a
for
stricken as
before
chiefly
settlers
with parks and gardens, are second to none
China.
opening
103
by steamer
had time to
to
Formosa; but
steam-
pull off to the
"Yesso," and take a hurried leave of an esteemed friend
broken
down
saw him
health,
in
companion
pleasant
he
for
again,
and then homeward bound.
never
reaching home.
had a
died
before
Dr. Maxwell, the medical missionary of
in
Tai-wan-fu, in Formosa, and from him
accounts
savages
the
of
on
this
heard some interesting
Leaving the
strange island.
we passed the Pescadore group of islands at

daybreak next morning. The wind all the while blew strongly
harbour
at
p.m.,
from the north, forcing

myself a prisoner
see
to
rolling!
it
land.
my
was
my
to forego
berth until
grateful
dinner,
and to confine
was summoned on deck
how
but
sight,
the sea
and the land alas! the only thing that struck
was that
my
It
me
in
sea
it
legs,
must be a very long way

I
had one or two hours'
off.
me
was
about
Having once gained
leisure to scrutinise the
coast and the inland mountain ranges, which lost themselves in
the clouds above.

as
the
abreast
only harbour
of
steamer
this
came
spot,
to
her
narrow rocky
accessible
inlet
in
was pointed out to

quarter
this
some two
miles
moorings.
Here
from
I
shore,
and
that vessels
that
their
me
was
that the
who informed
were constantly being wrecked along

crews
it
found myself keenly
interested in the experiences of a Malay on board,
me
and
were invariably eaten
to a
this shore,
man by
the
THROUGH CHINA WITH A CAMERA,
I04
"
schooner
on
prey.
of
search
Macto
perpetually
He
" in
1859, and
how
beach
the
in
the crew were massacred

else
at a later date, of a
murder
referring to the
scoured
probably heard of the wreck of the
had
beach by the natives; or
very
this
who
savages,
bloodthirsty
he
may have been
number of American
by the aborigines further south. It is to punish

sort that a Japanese army was despatched to
castaways
outrages of this
Formosa,
chance
retaliation
in
the Japanese.
of
coming
We
fleet
landed,
my
predicted in
difficulties
are told
anese
some
for
which
barbarities
so say
previous work the probability
between Japan and China.
by the "Pall Mall Gazette"
that
when
the Jap-
anchored off Formosa, and before a single soldier

Chinese corvette and a gunboat steamed into sight,
with guns run out,
men
and everything prepared for
at quarters
Between them these two
action.
particular
have been practised upon a Japanese crew
to
vessels as they assure us, might
have sunk the whole Japanese squadron but after some palaver
the Chinese men-of-war quietly steamed off again, and the Japanese
;
troops were landed.

to
Formosa and
It
possible that this visit of the Japanese
is
their finding
it
of undeveloped resources, had
a land greatly to be desired
some
and
full
influence in their eventually
securing the island for themselves.
Before
may
and
island
as
we disembark and proceed on our journey
inland,
it
be as well to give the reader some general notion of the
the
hundred
its
position.
Isla
Portuguese named
miles
off"
the
it,
Formosa, or the Beautiful

lies at
mainland.
Island,
the distance of about one
In time the Chinese crossed
over and planted a settlement on the island, driving the savages

high
up
into
the
almost
inaccessible
runs nearly north and south,

it
is
about
its
length
84 miles broad across
its
mountains.
is
The
island
about 250 miles, and
widest part.
Down
its
Mountain Gorge, Island of Formosa.
FORMOSA.
105
centre a rocky spine of lofty mountains stretches longitudinally

nearly
from
sea
to
thousand
fourteen
western
half
of
with
sea,
feet
high.
peaks, in some places, about

The Chinese occupy only the
the island and a small portion at
its
northern
whole of the mountainous region to the

east is held by independent tribes of aborigines.
Before it was
ceded to Japan the island was ruled over by a Taotai resident
extremity,
while
the
and appointed by the Central Government. The

Formosa was the only officer of the same rank in
the Empire who enjoyed the privilege of direct appeal to the
at Tai-wan-fu,
Taotai
of
The population
throne.
half
millions Chinese
suppose
that
But
flora
let
and
about three millions,
Formosa was
and what confirms them

its
is
viz.,
and half a million aborigines.

originally
in this
view
two and a
Naturalists
joined to the mainland;

is
the great similarity of
fauna to that of the nearest provinces of China.
us land and see for ourselves.
CHAPTER
VII.
FORMOSA.
Harbour, Formosa-La-mah-kai Difficulties of Navigation Taiwan-fu The Taotai His Yamen How to cancel a State Debt The
Dutch in 1661 Sylvan Lanes Medical Missions A Journey to the
Interior Old Watercourses Broken Land Hak-ka Settlers Poahbe Pepohoan Village Baksa Valley The name " Isla Formosa"
long March The Central Mountains Bamboo Bridges "Pau-ah-liau"
Village The Physician at work Ka-san-po Village A Wine-feast
Interior of a Hut Pepohoan Dwellings A Savage Dance Savage
Takow
Hunting-grounds La-lung Village Return Journey.
Chinese
brought
There was
dangerous,
harbour
pretty
even
in
heavy
coast.
Opium from
said
his
on
to
at this time,
make
for the
steamer and
rendering
it
mouth of the
determined to go ashore with
knowledge to land us
This
seaman, a daring specimen,
and who was
sea
a surf-boat, to
to his local
the
off to the
anchorage about a mile from shore.
Maxwell and
so Dr.
along
secure
to
Opium, trusting
where
named Opium, came
pilot,
her
pilot
was a
who had been
safely
some-
cool, imperturbable
out in
all
weathers
have earned his singular cognomen of
notoriety as a smuggler of that valuable drug.
A FORMOSA RAID.
It
truly wonderful
is
how
in California the genius of the
07
Chinese
been times without number equal to the task of carrying on an untaxed opium traffic, and that too under a system
has
race
of
that
surveillance
police
Chinaman and
his
effects
would leave the hidden

of opium
falls
short
of submitting the
process of sublimation, which
juices of the narcotic behind.
Never-
dodges have been detected one by one
their
theless,
only
to
glued
in
a layer
between the polished sides of a trunk
will
never reach shore, nor pass unnoticed though wrought into the
well-made soles of a silken boot, or stitched into the skirts of

a
padded
Opium
But
robe-
plunging as
if
are on the top of the breakers,
calmly on the while, with a countenance at
looking
is
now we
the boat were going bow-foremost to the bottom.
once soothing and reassuring
We
soon
over the
roll
last bil-
low and are swept into a small haven amid the rocks.
rocks
are
of
igneous
suddenly chilled while
and
as
scramble
hard as
which
luxuriant
hollows
shrubs
filled
glass.
up with a
little
These
molten metal
cell-like cavities
and sharp as splintered
the
like
We land,
in a state of violent ebullition.
over a multitude of
flint
have
cavities
and look
formation,
with edees
Many
of these
sandy
soil,
in
and a sort of dwarf date-palm grow.
The wet sand along the beach was of a deep black hue.
As we made our way through the native town of Takow, I
was much struck with the tropical appearance of the place,
and with the shady palms, which reminded us of the villages
in the Malayan Archipelago. But evidently neither Mohammedans
nor
Malays
the
settlement,
length
lawless
there,
or
we reached
welcome.
the
dwelt
kept
for
huge porkers roamed
watch around
the
the Mission Station, and
cabin
free
about
doors.
met with
At
a cordial
Here the Rev. Mr. Ritchie gave me some notion of

state
which prevailed
in this portion
of the island.
I08
One
when on
day,
mission-trip
inland,
he
fell
deputy magistrate (Chinese) of the Tung-shan
"Yamen"
ing to his
armed
of
retainers
ceeding on
in
with the
district,
return-
from a place called La-ma-kai, with a troop

Passing this
his heels.
at
my
to La-ma-kai,
official
and pro-
met a band of ruffians

and behind them followed
friend there
carrying spears, daggers and fire-arms
an old woman, who besought the marauders to return her son's

matchlock, which one of them had just stolen from her house.
The
asked of Mr. Ritchie when he reached the
question
first
Chinaman's hut where he proposed to
sleep,
was whether these
armed men had been seen, as they were a band of highway

robbers that had been plundering the neighbouring settlements.
The magistrate, it appeared, had been despatched by his superior
on a rich
seize
officer
to
to hold
him as a hostage
warned of the threatened

servants
relative of
peans, inspired
and had forthwith met
train,
their
overwhelming a force as to compel him to an
so
and speedy
undignified
most probably by one of the
surprise,
in the mandarin's
enemy with
one of the bandits, and
but the crafty knaves had been fore-
my
Tai-wan-fu, saved
retreat.
by the vigorous
friend
wholesome dread of EuroGordon at
action of Lieutenant
from
an easy prey into the
falling
hands of the gang.
Two
three
or
establishments
in
of the European firms at
Takow,
or
had
at the
rises a hill
behind these foreign houses there

feet
apes,
high and
its
commonly known
only inhabitants, which
about the crags.

of
Takow
well
me
as
to
From
this hill
Amoy
time
may be
I
the
inspections
conclusion that
carried
in
have branch
speak of; and
more than i,ooo

from the large
as Apes' Hill,
seen in great numbers
obtained a commanding view
harbour, and the observations which
closer
out
made
here, as
from other points, led
the hands of a civilised foreign
TAI-WAN-FU.
power,
invading
109
portion of the soft sandy lagoon, which is gradually

and narrowing the available anchorage of the harbour,
might soon be added to the now limited accommodation for shipping;
while
easily
be removed.
bar
the
mouth of the port might no
the
at
As
the
case
now
stands, with
less
wind and
tide
favourable, a barque drawing twelve feet of water can find
her
way through
rocky entrance.
the
Rapid physical changes
have taken place within a recent period on

of Formosa, as
we
get
the
this
formation
of the
It
struck me, however, that
harbour of
Takow
Thus, when the Dutch occupied the
date.
western side
be able to demonstrate conclusively when
shall
a point further north.
to
natural
modern
belongs to a
island, a con-
siderable river existed at the southern extremity, and the channel,
now
of the red-haired race.
known as "Ang-mang-kang,"
The combined action of the
up debris on the one
side,
nearly dry,
is
still
and of the
river
or estuary
sea silting
o
on the other,
to-
gether with the growth of a crescent-shaped coral reef, has formed

a
natural
belt
miles
several
extremity by a
northern
this
barrier
in
ridge
now covered
extent,
of most luxuriant tropical trees.
This bar
is
with a
joined at
of igneous rocks; and
it
ridge that the break or flaw occurs which forms the
Much
harbour.
of the
this natural wall,
extremely
soft
mud.
a depth of water
is
It
is
in
mouth
of the six or seven miles enclosed
consists of a shallow lagoon with a
its
is
by
bottom of
only towards the northern end that
obtained sufficient for ships trading to the
island.
Owing
visit
to
to
the
the
disturbed state of the country
aboriginal
tribes of the south,
Maxwell to see Tai-wan-fu, the

north
on the
reached
deferred
my
and went with Dr.
capital, twenty-five miles further
coast. Starting at daylight in the
the outer roads at 8 o'clock.
It
is
"Formosa," we
singular to observe
no
that there
old
the
now no harbour
is
Zelandia,
fort
and
sible;
yet
we
as to render
that Zelandia
and
was an
on
that
further,
appeared
island
1633,
Formosa
it
stated
is
where a spacious haven was formed
April
Tai-wan-fu,
before
in
and surrounded
lay,
any nearer approach impos-
the Dutch accounts of
in
could descry
by the Dutch
there
about two and a half miles from where
by water so shallow
We
at Tai-wan-fu.
erected
Koksinga's
1661,
30th,
ran
fleet
the spacious haven be-
into
tween Zelandia and Provincia, separated by a distance of more

anchored
his
high
at
shallow
that
As
all.
raft,
and
the
at
is
first
but,
so
confine
ashore
we went ashore
fire
in
is
these
as
together
a catamaran, a sort
These
bamboo.
with
ratan.
wooden
strong
sail.
tub
There
is
not a nail used
and the most curious feature about
the accommodation provided for passengers.

tub.
were the boats of the
washing
themselves
the
is
at
so as to impart a hollow shape to the
contrivance,
that
two miles out
nothing more than a spacious
in
did,
is
so
to the centre of this surf-boat, supports the
fast
whole
far
we
now
is
when the sea is rough and if there

monsoon blowing, it cannot be done
lashed
are
the strange vessel
This
portion of the plain
the fort the water
least
by
by a high
communicating with
an easy or safe business to cross these
it
mast, which carries a large mat

in
small
it,
of poles of the largest species of
made
block,
off
is
at
bent
are
poles
while
ourselves,
for
made
of raft
Tai-wan-fu.
south-west
strong
which the Chinese invader
vessels have to anchor, as
shallows,
vast
in
a dry arid plain, crossed
canal cut through
tide;
Neither
sea.
now
is
of
port
old
flooded
to
fleet
and having
road,
the
and the haven
miles;
three
than
to
and
is
thought
local
it
possible
washerwomen;
concerned, the natives of Formosa
washing
their
customers
occasionally
mangling them on the beach
very
THE TAOTAI.
simple
that
process,
the tub
for
is
no way fixed to the
in
and
heavy sea would,
1 1
does frequently, send
raft,
so
adrift.
it
The tub into which we descended would hold four persons,

when we squatted down inside it we could just see
over the top. Not feeling very comfortable, we came out and
sat on the bare raft, to which we had at times to cling,
and
nianibus pedibusque^ as the waves broke over us.

Tai-wan-fu, the capital of Formosa,
The
inhabitants.
planted
showing
a fortified city of 70,000
is
space
about
of
five miles,
and gardens, and
fields
still
ancient Dutch occupation, in the ruins
the
of
with
extent
great
traces
Fort
of
to
enclose
walls
Provincia and in the extensive parks shaded with fine
old trees or groves of
The suburbs
bamboo.
tall
by a multitude of green
which
lanes,
are intersected
run between walls of
cactus interspersed with the brilliant flowers of the wild fuchsia
and
clusters
inhabitants
Fukian
major convolvulus, or
of
which
hedges,
form
and
province,
with
(or
an
carrying
chair outside his

a
sheet
large
rounded
about
yamen
introduction
stranger
idle
in
and agriculture further

tribes.
paid
visit
to the
of Tai-wan (Formosa). Waiting in
my
card
was
sent
while
of note-paper
by the
arts
by the aboriginal
official
governor)
These
Hak-kas already described.
the
daily
into the territory claimed
"Taotai"
The
of this part of the island are chiefly natives of the
between them are
Armed
shaded by bamboo
else
pointed archway above the path.
crowd
China
that
my
red one, the size of
in,
found myself sur-
always certain to collect
is
whence
whither they would go, would be
a
the
difficult
to
gazers
tell
came,
and
all
and
sorts
of conjectures being thrown out as to the nature of my business.
little
naked boy, with a face
nocent curiosity, ventured a
trifle
full
of perfectly untutored in-
too near, so
leaned slightly
1 1
and frowned
forward
he
terror
yamen
yamen.
Thus
extract
of
Here
long
silk
him
escorted,
hall
and
makes
small
exacting
private
in
touching
matters
quarters
of
flowers
in
self-important,
you
and
was
I
surrounded
was
over.?"
man whom
schroff,
in
Taotai,
and
addressing
Thomson,
Mr.
come
and
to
fearfully
their personal dignity.
The
had
bank.
a
I
and creepers; and
vases, besides shrubs, ferns
interior
hand,
intro-
seems
the peculiarity which
from
led,
have
me
am
saloons or pavilions.
with
and there presented to a
faced pleasant-looking Chinaman, who, to
morning,
it
Totai and his retainers were prettily
the
Into one of these last
his
was
Indeed
open courts being shaded with palms and decked
out, the
whole
everywhere
officials
all
exempt
not
are
By
Taotai, with infinitely
the
to
ceremony and pomposity than when
Chinese
the
dressed in a
satin boots.
court and along a series of
Prince Kung, or Li-hung-Chang.
to
into the
noticed various
official,
and heavily-soled
presented
finally
confession from the lips of
met a more venerable
was conducted through a
corridors,
was ushered
of justice,
or
witness,
robe, a stiff girdle
greater official
the
the
the substitutes for our sacred oath, to
torture,
from
truth
prisoner.
with
through
Passing
instruments
laid
usual conical hats with red
the
that suggested the idea of flames burning through the
top of an extinguisher.
me
could have practised on the child.
who wore
attendants,
duced
looked grave,
appeared, and behind him followed a train of
officer
feathers
of screaming
fit
mob
yamen, while the
the
and wondered what devilry
Soon an
Bursting into a
at him.
from
fled
my
in perfect English,
said,
you here
glad to see
full-
surprise, held out
"Good
when
did
recognised the speaker after a time, as a
met
in
He
a
Hongkong
told
strong
me
as
comprador, or a
he was the nephew of the
suspicion
that
that functionary
rt
SETTLING ACCOUNTS.
had
himself
one
at
time
been engaged
in
trade,
and that he
by purchase obtained this post, out of which, if report

spoke true, he was making a very good thing. After partaking
of tea and fruit, my friend, whose mind was evidently imbued
with the notion that I had come to the place on some secret
had
mission,
tried
intentions.
know why
he could to gain exact information as to
him
plainly that
my
my
purpose was to go into
island to see the aborigines.
the
of
heart
the
all
told
He wanted
to
should take the trouble to trudge so far on foot,
through a region where no proper roads existed, merely to see

"Depend
the place, with the chance perhaps of being killed.
he assured me, "you will never get near them; you
it,"
with poisoned arrows, or lose yourself in the forest
shot
be
will
But come and see the Taotai." This gentleman was
paths.
upon
rather
good-looking
markable
his
for
apparently
man, of middle age, and said to be
administrative
affected with suspicions as to
the aborigines, he showed

a
portrait
and some
I
which
took
dried
lichees.
me some
design in visiting
kindness, and in return for
him, he
for
my
re-
although
rate,
me
sent
box of tea
tea unfortunately spoiled before
The
reached Hongkong, but the lichees were very good.
incident occurred in this
curious
preceding
the
Taotai.
When
the
stormed by Lieut. Gordon and

in
At any
ability.
command
measure
of the
troops
Mr. Gibson, the

functionary
for
late British
left
for
Taotai,
in
some
charge was added
that he
had saluted
when
that
This unworthy commander, then,
Amoy.
directing
this
Consul, with three guns,
was dining one night with the

the
To
was known
it
mandarin
party, the military
Anping, was supposed
to have failed in his duty.
an accusation of treason;
from
his
at
town during the rule of

of Anping had been
fort
prefect,
the
when a message was
Prefect
to
sent
detain his military

8
114
At daybreak a second messenger
guest until morning.
who brought
instructions
When
was urgent.
arrived,
with
his
and forthwith, as the business
yamen,
to the Taotai's
prisoner
repair
to
Prefect
the
for
yamen,
they reached the
servant
came
out to say that the Taotai would not receive the military man-
way
his
and with
on an interview,
insisted
his
yamen, where he demanded an appeal to the

The Taotai informed him that the edict had been
into the
Emperor.
had him stripped of
from Peking,
received
hurried
The unmen forced
ordered him to prepare for instant death.
and
darin,
happy man
and put to
off
on the
death
summary vengeance
instance of
his official clothes,
In another such
spot.
wealthy mandarin,
who had
Government with loans of money, determined, as he

saw no probability of repayment, to withhold an undue proporaided
the
tion of the local taxes.
dure
the
in
the
has
official
It
of
interest
common
a very
is
the Imperial
amassed
sufficient
course of proce-
Government
wealth by
to wait until
illegal
exactions,
then to trump up a case against him, squeeze his property and
condemn him
this
Shortly
to death.
an
step,
was
official
inquire into the matter.

to a quiet
the defaulter
the mandarin had taken
after
despatched
The
district
by the Government
to
governor hereupon invited
dinner to meet the governor-general's
emissary, and during the course of a convivial evening the host
and
his friend
between them
so
managed
to outrage the feel-
Then
ings of the guest, that a quarrel finally ensued.
runners" were called
and
this
in,
was the new way
Maxwell.
and
tried
this
to
"yamen
which an old state debt was paid.
in
large tract of land outside Tai-wan-tu
cution-ground,
the
the expostulating guest was cut down,
spot
make
visited
in
is
known as the execompany with Dr.
picture out of
it,
but there was
nothing to lend grace to the scene; for the plain here
is
a per-
THE EXECUTION GROUND.

whence the grand old
fectly flat one,
1 1
Tai-wan may be
trees of
seen crowding away into the background, as
if
they shrunk from
rooting themselves in unhallowed earth. Hardly a shrub relieves

the
monotony of
what a
gloomy place of death
this
interest
fearful
must
it
and yet with
have been gazed on by that
band of Europeans, i6o
in
number, who were led out there to
morning
in
August 1842!
execution
behind
followed
terrible
one
them with
The mob
massacre had closed, their savage laughter was changed
became overcast and a dire storm
into panic terror, for the sky
upon the scene. The water-courses were
burst
uous torrents that flooded the
produce before
its
land,
swollen streams,
people were drowned
sweeping
from
stain
the ground.
related,
apart
It
is
full
ended
in
fort,
Hollanders
been
adventurer.
black-mail from
from
this
He was
all
With resources so
that their safest policy
my
is
island,
who drove
must have
sort of Chinese sea-king,
the surrounding islands. China now-
command
her
new steam
command, he might have

of the small kingdom of Japan
great at his
taught the ambitious inhabitants
took
still
fierce struggle
Koksinga,
beautiful
a-days needs just such an admiral to

fleet.
have just
more recently
expulsion of the Dutch from Formosa in
1661, after a nearly twelve months' siege.
a bold
tragic history attaches
was the scene of the
city
the
the doughty
levying
out the
that about 2,000
of details to permit description here.
In olden times the
which
God wiped
alleged
from the incident which
both
and the storming of Anping
an event too
with impet-
houses and
while the cries of perishing
persons perished on that eventful day.

to Tai-wan-fu,
filled
trees,
tumult of the tempest. Thus,
in the fierce
say the thoughtful and superstitious natives,
bloody
of the city
but before the
yells of exultation,
to
keep
their troops at
home.
When
rambles through the sylvan lanes of Tai-wan-fu, no feature
Il6
much
so
me
struck
the
recalled
fearful
The
languid air was
hum
of insects,
the
as their perfect repose
the din
creak of produce-laden carts on their
who
prattle of
time
hands.
in their
The
results in
cast has
when
conflict
without doubt be severe and
once more with
issue
its
other
each
confront
will
stirred
may
it
with
verified
lead to important
This fore-
result of the late war,
by the
with
has been found, as I supposed,

boasted navy, unable to cope with her
her
modern
takes place will
opening up the vast continent of China.
been
way
Alas! the
supremacy, between two races
for
struggle
vital
for the first
weapons
children at play.
merry
Formosa may soon be
of
of a
with no noise more warlike than the
filled
to market, or the
quiet glades
not a sign or sound
they too often witnessed.
which
conflicts
and China
beggarly troops, her
much despised
neighbour.
Her increased army and modern navy afforded an opportunity,

too tempting
The
the mandarins.
the ships
of
the time-honoured and systematic plunder of
for
existence
of an
army proved an
navy were simply targets
the
for
illusion;
the Japanese
cruisers; while the Chinese shells were filled with sand as a

harmless and economical substitute for gunpowder or other ex-
plosive material having a certain market value.

I
visit
determined to make an
the
excursion into the interior, and to
where
mission-stations,
outlying
my
friend hoped,
if
open up new ground among the mountain savages.

Accordingly on Monday, April nth, we left Tai-wan-fu for the
village of Poah-be, and were carried in native sedans ten miles
a number of coolies to convey my
I hired
across the plain.
possible, to
instruments, as
interest
had determined
which we
might
fall
in
to
photograph the objects of
with en route.
The
plain,
highly cultivated one, was dotted with Chinese farms, and with
hamlets overshadowed by groves of
bamboo
the chief products
V
ITl
'^^^
OF THB
'
UNIVERSITY
^CALIFORJ^
|:
UPLAND FARMS.
here were
had the compressed

of the Fukien
out
were bronzed and
fat,
most of them
vogue among the females
in
and hence they seemed to limp about
They
wore pretty dresses
generally
edged with pale
calico,
the fields
in
much
feet so
province,
uneasily over the furrows.
of white
work
at
Many
sweet potatoes, earth-nuts and sugar-cane.
rice,
women were
of the
1 1
As
blue.
and they had a
men, they
for the
appearance,
lazy, loutish
seemingly leaving the
women
There were
to be seen too, but their attire consisted
children
do the bulk of the field-work.
to
simply of a small charm hung on a string around the neck. As at
we passed along some
Tai-wan-fu,
beautiful sylvan lanes,
by areca-palms and bamboos, and leading
to
the
shaded
settlements
which were truly enchanting when viewed from a distance, but

less
and thoroughly Chinese on a closer inspection.
attractive
The near approach

by the
to
fragrance
of
hamlets was always
one of these
conflicting odours of garlic
some sweet-smelling
of which the Chinese
flowers
the soft perfume of
are very fond, and which quite overpower
the white wild-rose that grows
in
profusion
of
our
more temperate
in the
we
the wild flowers which bloom hereabouts

cate hues
known
and manure, mingled with the
hedges.
In
discover the deU-
climes, blending charmingly
with the vivid primary colours of the tropical
flora.
It
was
ant, too, to listen to the songs of the field lark, a bird
pleas-
common
to certain districts of the mainland both in the north and south
of China, and, so far as
Halting at
and await
were
far
the
the
in
first
arrival
the
rear.
can recollect, to some parts of Siam.
range of
of
hills,
we send back
my boy Ahong
and the
the chairs
who
coolies,
Ahong, unaccustomed to walking, was
my
already
foot-sore.
sandals,
and so blistered the soles of
Against
eight miles of our journey tried
advice
he had put on
his feet that the
him severely.
The
straw
remaining
road,
if
our
*^8
route
over
could
dry
and by
be dignified by such a name, was a broken track
our
tortuous
200
feet
clay
before
interrupted
eight feet deep.
us.
by blocks of hard clay

But these were
Slowly we progressed,
way along the verge

now diving down
deep,
where the
pit,
or
six
pitfalls
what lay
to
constantly
hills,
of a clay
trifles
now wending
chasm more than

huge
into the recesses of a
surface was so heated with the sun that
flat
almost blistered the
hands when we touched its bare walls.

became the more broken the further we progressed
mland; the pits, too, grew wider and deeper. At the bottom
of some of these we actually found cultivated fields, and
traces
it
The
soil
of the mountain torrents that force a subterraneous

passage
during the wet season through the soft formation beneath, and
thus effect the drainage of the central range of mountains, while
at the same time they render farming in this hill
region an
enterprise
ground,
full
and
For the squatter
of peril.
liable
to
tills
find his fields
and
away by the sudden subsidence of the
soil.
who
is
the treacherous
his dwelling
cultivate this shifting clay, are prepared for such
cies,
and are quite accustomed
to
a hasty
swept
But the Hak-kas,
emergen-
change of abode,
cheerfully resuming their agricultural labours wherever they
happen to
may
At times, indeed, the sudden disappearance
settle.
of their whole property
may
lead to very desirable results.
They
emigrate to a healthier or more settled neighbourhood, perhaps,

or else to one where the trees and debris brought down by
the
torrents
will furnish them with fuel during the winter

months.
need hardly say that the Imperial Government has not seen
fit to send a geographer to lay down a
map of this ever-changI
ing
region
for
the
and
farmer,
it
at
will
be a matter of
the
difficulty,
should think,
end of each wet season, to
exactly where he and his neighbours have settled.
find out
Poah-be was
POAH-BE.
reached
by about 4 p.m.
a tribe
of
This place
whom
aborigines
red-haired
kind-hearted,
back
been crossing
just
out
up,
kinsmen have held
the
in
for this reason
Once,
in the
fertile plains
which
by the advance of the ruthless

mountain fastnesses,
own,
their
and warm
but they have long ago been driven
land
richer
the
of
Higher
Chinese.
settlement of
cherish traditions
and
those
in
19
"Pepohoan," or
a lively
still
brothers,
down
times of the Dutch, they lived
we had
first
call
with a cordial welcome.
foreigners
receive
they
the
They
Dutch masters.
recollection of their
is
Chinese
the
These people have
"foreigners of the plain."
of their
defying
the
all
hardy
their
forces
of the
Imperial conqueror.
The
natives
came out
whom
Doctor,
the
They were a
in great
numbers
meet and welcome
to
they had not seen for a considerable time.

simple-looking race and had a frank sincerity
fine,
manner which was refreshing after a long experience of the

cunning Chinese. These Pepohoans had acquired the Chinese
Their buildings were
arts of husbandry and house-building.
of
even superior to those of the Chinese squatters, and the people

themselves were better dressed.
elsewhere,
and costume, while
features
traces of
Malayan
visited
tion
origin.
is
as
follows
then covered with
is
or
split
with the
bamboo,
clay
when dry with an

'
and
that
See Appendix.
have noticed
their old language bore
in
undoubted
houses at Poah-be and found them
and comfortable.
struck me, as
'
of the
several
well-arranged
clean,
It
resembled the Laotians of Siam both
they
that
Their
bamboo framework
mode
is
first
of construcset
up
this
a lathing or rather wattle-work of reeds
the
abounds
whole
in the
is
afterwards
plastered over
neighbourhood, and finished
outer coating of the white lime
made out
of
120
the limestone rock which

ings
form
usually
the
plentiful in these hills.
is
three sides of a square; but
The
will
dwell-
describe
accommodation in more detail further on in my narOnly two articles in any of the Pepohoan settlements
interior
rative.
bore
tokens of ingenuity and mechanical skill; these were the

butts of their matchlocks and a native rat-trap, which was very
curious indeed.
The rat is esteemed a great luxury among the
mountaineers so great
that the invention of this trap
been a most important event

Friday,
April
ii. We
to Baksa, twelve miles
Poah-be
left
off.
must have
in the history of their race.
was a
at
7 a.m. to-day to walk
and the
scenery gradually became so interesting as to warrant the belief
we had now
that
which
our
We
up.
beautiful morning,
got clear of the broken shifting lands through
yesterday's
o'clock the heat
It
journey had
became
extended.
and Ahong was
intense,
By about
fairly
ten
knocked
had to reduce our pace,
blistered
feet,
so that
it
too, on account of his sorely

was twelve o'clock before we reached
Baksa
valley.
Here again the people came out to welcome us,
shouting "Peng-gan," "Peace be with you," while many
a horny
hand was stretched out from its toil to grasp the doctor's as
we
entered
the
village,
or
rather
as
we passed through
the
and beneath the palms that shaded the scattered dwellings

m this Pepohoan paradise. I could now understand what the
Portuguese meant when they named the island Formosa; and
lanes,
we saw here was but the foreshadowing of the wilder

grandeur of the mountain scenery inland. A crescent of
limeyet what
stone
a
hills
bare
sweeps round Baksa
rocky
luxuriates
remarkable
exceptional
front
elsewhere.
feature
in
valley, presenting in
striking
Perhaps
contrast
the
to
the
many
foliage
places
which
bamboos where the most
in the scene, for these plants here attain

proportions and are, some of them, more than 100
BAMBOO.
Tai-wan
In the history of
feet hicfh.
bamboos
of
varieties
thirteen
is
it
stated that there are
of grass)
species
(a
known
in
Formosa, one being reported to attain to the enormous girth

of two feet.
'
here give a brief account of the
will
which the bamboo
to
sively in the social
and
breadth
of the people throughout the length
economy
every other means of support
Were
China.
of
many uses
which figures exten-
applied a plant
is
and bamboo, these two plants would, I

believe, supply the necessaries for clothing, habitation and food
indeed the bamboo alone, as I propose to show, would bear the
withdrawn except
lion's
rice
No
share of the burden.
natured plant, nor

it
the
valleys
tending
soil
for this hardy-
needed
locality;
its
and
highest state of perfection in
its
of Formosa,
vigour on the thin
is
dainty in the choice of
probably reaches
although
rich
is it
yet
of rocky
it
grows with nearly equal
hill-sides.
It
is
first
used to
hedge the dwelling around with an almost impenetrable barrier

of prickly stems, and to cast a cool shade over the abodes with
its
constructed
and so
cans,
is
the
the
chevaux de
like
frise.
waterproof coat
which overlap
tural
implements
and,
indeed,
the
are,
prickly
provisions,
In
and
deal top
its
thatched
bamboo
hat,
water-
Hanging from
stems, supporting dried
may
plumage of a
of them,
fishing-net,
Chinese Notes and Queries,
dry
off rats with their
see the proprietor's
each made out of the leaves of the
like the
many
its
of bamboo,
so, too, are the
and warding
one corner we
with
made
chairs are
and the rice-measures.
number of
pork and such
couches and
drinking jugs
and
stems
its
the table, except
the roof are a
plant,
of
entirely
Within,
leaves.
The houses themselves may be
pale-green plumes.
lofty
ii.
made
bird.
of hard
The agriculbamboo stems,
the baskets of divers shapes, the
135.
122
paper and the pens (never absent from the humblest Chinese
the wine-cups,
abodes),
there
the
the tobacco-pipes are
finally,
he
ask him,
will
hope
latest
will
be to
lie
The
plant
is
a cool hill-side.
of
classics
were cut on
by
the
to
bamboo cradle, and that

beneath some bamboo brake, on
his
also extensively
used
in the sacred
courts
them are manufactured out of

the
outside
its
stem
temple are fanned and sheltered
There are a variety of
nodding plumes.
its
you
came
The most ancient Buddhist

of bamboo the divination-sticks and
strips
the case which contains
while
dwells
if
Buddhist temples.
offices
the
The man who
his earliest impressions
you that
tell
him through the basket-work of

his
the chop-sticks and,
ladles,
of bamboo.
on the tender shoots of the plant; and
feasting
is
water
all
different sorts
made from the bamboo, but the kind which struck

me as showing a new property in the fibre of the plant was
that commonly used by the Fukien gold-beaters in the producof paper
of
tion
are
also
for
made
same purpose
the
place of the parchment
occupying the
thus
gold-leaf,
employed
of bamboo,
in
Europe.
Fans and
flutes
and even the looms on which the
Chinese weave their silken fabrics are chiefly made out of the
plant.
Indeed,
Chinese.
so
impossible
is
it
This much, however,
multifarious
are
duties
the
estimate
to
may
value
its
which the bamboo
as
to
render
it
above
all
made
is
discharge, and so wide-spread are the benefits which
upon the Chinese,
the
to
unhesitatingly affirm, that

to
confers
it
others the most
useful plant in the Empire.
We
spent the night at the Baksa mission-station and
next morning
miles.
some
The
to
first
faint notion
walk to Ka-san-po,
hill
of
we
got
soil
now
left
early
distance of twenty-six
to after quitting
the journey
climb a rocky ridge, where the
Baksa gave us
before us.
We
had to
had been completely broken
BAKSA TO KA-SAN-PO.
away on
summit of the
the
to
that
ease
of
feelings
23
and thus along the sharp edge we made
either side;
our way upwards
hill.
It
was with no
looking back upon our baggage-
kept
bearers (six strong Pepohoans from Baksa), who, had they slipped
would have been precipitated several hundred feet on whatever

At last we reached the summit
side they chanced to fall.
and were rewarded with a view of a splendid valley surcircle of hills, while the central mountain ranges
safely,
rounded by a
distance
The
beyond.
be made out
we had
glad to see us and where
we
water,
extremity
Pepohoan
in
then
settlement
little
at the eastern
time
for a short
heavenwards
be descried towering
could
island
of the
Kamana
of
in the
could just
of a long glen.
Resting
where the people were
hut,
a refreshing draught of spring
pushed on to Kamana, and were there met by
named Tong, a man of good Chinese

who had formerly held a post in a yamen. He was
a sturdy old native helper

education,
had suffered a good deal of persecu-
a fine-looking fellow, and

tion for
having embraced
o'clock, under
the
commenced another
Christian
the
toilsome
At
faith.
we
guidance of Tong,
left
about one
this station
and
ascent, beneath a blazing sun and
without a breath of wind to temper the intense heat. At length,

after
surmounting the
received
with us his supply of water,
Our
we should remain
to climb another
one,
top
over
we
shrubs
hill,
broken
rocky
us
with a buffalo herd,
in
shed
kindly
in the centre of a
and gladly shared

in a
bamboo
tube.
him great pleasure, and he was
for a
smoke and
a chat.
Off again
or rather to scramble up deep fissures in
stratum of clay and
flung ourselves
in a
fell
which he held
afforded
arrival evidently
anxious
we
living in a rude
He
parched wilderness.
range,
first
and found an old man
cleft,
down beneath
at the
slate.
Once on the
some
the scant shade of
same time dislodging from the
124
roots and stones
numerous
tribes of centipedes, each about as
long as one's finger and of a rich chocolate colour, with bright
yellow
These
feet.
centipedes
inflict
severe
were too much exhausted to get out of
ately they got out of ours.
of this
brought
ridge
brook was reported
us
to
next
Here while
One
us.
stem
green
halting-place,
we discovered
which
of a plant,
known
is
which
Chinese
the
might be
We
to
it
them
ought
was some time
a luxury rather then otherwise.
and
as the "foul" shrub,
to
prize dearly, for
sufficient to fertilise a
pile.
them
lie
at the foot of the
grandeur
while
Mount Morrisson
all.
river
the mountain
lifting its
flowed
far
sierras rose
up
its
deep blue peak on high above
down beneath our
feet,
and we
boom
through dark
and over a rocky mountain bed.
was now
ravines
of
was spanned by a number
waters, as they rushed
its
but was
at its smallest,
of
rude structures might be called.
pris-
behind
pile
could hear the distant
river
one
range, and could enjoy a splendid view of a valley that
stretched out in front of us, half cultivated and half in

tine
is
very breath
its
whole region.
were now on one of the spurs that
central
in return for the

It
nuisance, for the Pepo-
the cause of the
hoan nose seemed to account

This plant
at breakfast our
of the bearers incautiously
outrage sent forth a perfectly putrid odour.

before
where a
a channel indeed was there, but
the waters had dried up long ago.
broke off the
we
steep descent on the other side
our
to
exist;
crowning trouble overtook
but
sting,
way, and fortun-
their
still
bamboo
This
a broad stream, and
bridges,
Far away,
onward
at the
if
such these
northern end
of the valley, the village of Pau-ah-liau could be descried peep-
out amid a mass of foliage

and high above this settlement rose mountains wrapped in the gloom of primeval forests,
ing
the haunts of wild
beasts
and
savage
men.
These
mountain
PRIMITIVE BRIDGES.
heavy black-mail from
tribes just referred to, exact a
kinsmen
civilised
this,
to
they
will at
in
the valleys below
down
times swoop
waylay travelling
We
make a raid on some

had now reached the banks
it
in
whom
parties,
death, or else
cross
12$
merit
from
an
more
troops of sixty or seventy
they plunder
and put to
village in their vicinity.
of the stream, and had to
to gain the village; but the bridge here,
the great
their
and not content with
engineering point
which possessed
view
of
of
ex-
treme simplicity, was about the most crazy, break-neck contrivance
it
has
my
been
ever
to
lot
The whole
see.
consisted of one or two poles of bamboo,

to
bank some twelve
structures are the
above the deep
feet
common
They are understood to be rebuilt, or kept

man who happens to break them, should he
dent,
or
by the next
These elegant
river.
property of the natives, and suffice
and intercommunication
for the purposes of trade
structure
stretched from bank
comer
should he not.
in this region.
repair,
in
by the
survive the acci-
Providence has
supplied a bountiful stock of raw material for their construction,

in the
may
surrounding vale and
see the boulders for
thickets, wherewith,
piers,
if
and ratans growing
piers,
need be,
in
the
to bind the cross-poles to the
and there are bamboos everywhere.
About
half a mile
from
Pau-ah-liau
spreading branches of the " Png-chieu

it,
There we
along the river's bank.
new
whose roots spread along the
and contortions, now forming an
'
we passed beneath
tree, as the natives
ground
in curious
inviting chair,
now
which one might pass the hot nights with comfort
the
term
writhings
a couch on
or elsewhere
a small shrine connected with the fetishism of the village. These

spirit-shrines
finest trees,
were
encountered
at
the
roots
of
many
of the
and consisted commonly of one basement stone and
four other slabs, together forming three sides and a roof. Within,
126
was a
in the centre,
stone
tiny
Our path was along
reposed.
on which the offerings
altar
pleasant shady road, on the
margin of a stream that had been made
On
our
flowers
hand was
left
use of for
irrigation.
hedge adorned with numerous wild

mint and
fuchsias, roses, guavas, wild
convolvulus
besides a profusion of wild raspberry-bushes that had lately been
laden with
may
fruit,
what
bamboo
cross
as sweet as our
from
judge
little
and
bridge,
own
still
English raspberries,
if
we
Again we had to
remained.
thence to follow a foot-road by
young blades rose
the edge of the ricefields, where the
in vivid
green above the water, just high enough to break up the reflection of the mountains
the village
of
on
the
some of them
latter,
all
provided with
haggard
offered
me
she
tesy,
one
compound
piquancy
mouth
went on
to
me when
series
of
the
pulls,
of
weed.
cigar,
they had
After
all
had a
times
with a savage lustre
and well-formed,
born amid the
wild
where
stood and
accepted the cour-
from which she took
this the cigar
The
pull.
with
large
that told
grandeur
in a
denoting delight at the unusual
mouth through the crowd, and
tall
had not long to wait
to
and then her face disappeared
wrinkles,
them,
lands.
When
my
ask for
to
hearty
chil-
tobacco-pipes, of which
dame came up
old
her pipe for a smoke.
two
or
were followed
Here the men, women and
bamboo
they made vigorous and unceasing use.

before
entered
house of
ten years old, without a rag
to hide their youthful proportions.
children were
We
Sin-chun.
now
for the
by troops of savage-looking women and
into his enclosure
dren,
and made straight
named
an aged blind Pepohoan,
We
glassy surface.
its
Pau-ah-liau,
and
was passed from
carefully returned to
villagers were,
brown
of a free
solitude
most of
eyes, kindling at
untamed
spirit,
of these mountain
PAU-AH-LIAU.
27
The women wear a profusion of dark brown or black hair,

combed straight back from the forehead, and caught up and
Then the long tresses are twisted
folded in behind the head.
which a
into a sort of cable, into
and the whole
is
The
The Chinese say

even
cause
posure
yet
the
they
hair
fight
them
is
wearer.
its
them never
Time appears
paint.
toil
battle
to
and ex-
attractions of their youth, but
dressed neatly and carefully to the
stubborn
back of
very striking,
are extremely barbarous, be-
as they advance in years
them quickly of the
rob
their
of
finest
with
hardly
deal
rich olive skin of
women
the
entwined,
at the
effect of this simple head-dress is
and contrasts well with the
is
passed like a
ear,
left
brows and firmly fixed up
diadem across the

the head.
strip of red cloth
then brought over the
against
last,
encroaching
the
and
hands
of fate.
The men now came trooping home

the
fields,
will,
frankness and honesty.
tall
erect
wearing
fellows,
in
greater numbers from
an
poor clothing, there was a manly grace
of perfect good-
air
In spite of their
horny hands and
in their
demeanour and
a perfect gentleness, a heartiness, and a simple hospitality which
was
it
truly touching to observe.
marked
difference
between the
where
we encountered
into his cabin,
soon
fetid
fell
air
you,
tell
in
was
Thus, where
Pepohoans had come into closer contact with the Chinese,
the
they were better dressed, but
us
In these respects there
different villages.
jar
less
friendly than in those villages
the aborigines alone.
and there
lay
down on
Sin-chun invited
mat
to rest,
and
awoke again with a start as a gust of

passed across the apartment. These natives, I must
fast asleep.
have a way of salting their turnips and placing them

of
water,
after which they eat
where
them
they are kept
till
they decompose,
as a relish to their rice.
128
was now
It
Pursuing
by
way by
man
not
at
him
arrived at that village
soon appeared, driving
apartment
an
On
Ah-toan was
his cattle before
He, too, was very pleased to see
pen.
made
things.
from Kasanpo.
six miles
we
the doctor was acquainted.
but he
the
into
our
whom
with
home,
quickly
still
the river-side,
and proceeded to the house of one Ah-toan, an
five o'clock,
old
we were
p.m., and
our
ready,
verandah
the
behind
and
a narrow
dwelling
his
us,
we deposited
which
in
space had been screened off for bathing, and of this convenience
we
once
at
took
villagers
not
make out why
to
had
the male portion of the
humorous
at us,
One
old
hat,
turned
could
and why they
incident,
to his
countenance
At
into a grin.
evidently
all
thatching
strong
pith
grin.
meant
be
to
civil,
that he
normal expression of sober gravity
smelt sam-shu, and
my
control over his facial
it
neighbour's
would dissolve
transpired that the
house,
customary, had been entertained at a wine-feast.

very
broad
into a
his features, in spite of him,
last
been
had
villagers
he
back the
bring
not
burst
finally
had abandoned
that he
too,
and
round,
it
could
community appeared
savage more than six feet high, got hold of
muscles, and though
distil
signal for
but
the erect and dignified bearing peculiar to their race.
lost
noticed,
was the
arrival
and have a look
in
treat our visit as a highly
to
Our
advantage.
crowd
the
and, as
is
The Pepohoans
from the sweet potato, which they
spirit
cultivate as a staple food like rice.

I
huts
will
now endeavour
are
infested
with
not
escape their forays.
feet
each
platform of
clay
floor.
way,
one
bamboo
to describe our
rats,
half
bedroom. The Pepohoan
and the chamber we occupied did
This apartment measured about eight

of
which
area
was
raised about eighteen inches
taken up by a
above the hard
This platform formed our bed, and the only other
PEPOHOANS.
be seen within, were two
articles of furniture to
which
served
purpose
the
had a small cup of

and by
pith,
were blackened and the

a
corner above
two
or
spears,
and
lock,
my
could see that the clay walls

glazed with sooty smoke.
rafters
In
head were a bundle of green tobacco, one
bow,
lastly,
wood
we
of
of a lamp
which floated a few shreds of burning
in
oil,
billets
By way
of pillows.
flickering light
this
129
an
heap of arrows,
object which
huge bin of unhusked
a primitive match-
had not hitherto noticed
rice at the side
of the bed.
fain
hoped
that there the rats might find occupation during the night
more
profitable than worrying our slumbers.
Ahong informed me,
in strict confidence, that the
of the savages hereabouts in the use of the
arrows was no
and
boiled
He
foes.
their victims
We
not
their
that,
tough-limbed Chinese
much
to venture
further into the
never show themselves when they
hill-men
discharge
precision
tender-hearted but
me
the
as
but
attack,
their
besought
mountains,
unerring
wonderful than the cool
less
ate
dexterity
bow and poisoned

way in which they
arrows high into the
as they
fall,
air,
with such
they pierce the skulls of
and cause instant death.
sleep much, as we found that rats were by no

means the only vermin we had to entertain, and once or twice
I
not
did
woke up
body
for
about
to
miles
have
armed guide
the
rice-bin.
eleven
scenery
find
the
rats
Next
distant,
ever beheld.
making short tracks across

morning we started
through
some of
one,
the
grandest
Old Atuan furnished us with an
good-looking young fellow
The path was an unsafe
my
for Lalung,
leading
named "Teng-Tsai."
as
it
did through the
lower hunting-grounds belonging to tribes of savages higher up

in
the
with
hills.
his
Teng-Tsai
matchlock,
called
and both
friend
carried
who
joined our party
small priming-flasks
9
of
I30
staghorn, suspended
They had
beads.
round
bracelets,
necks
their
with
hours,
when
the
of glass
rollers or
keep
will
trigger
them by the Chinese. As soon

they
village,
lighted
is
powder-
into the
the savages hereabouts
All
pulled.
is
down
use English powder for priming, when they can get
gether and
alight
and when kindled the burning end
attached to forceps, which bring the light

pan,
strings
on bamboo
These cords
their left arms.
twenty-four
for
round
also cord fusees coiled
it
supplied
as our guides lost sight of the
fusees and enjoined us to keep to-
their
make our way
in
For the
silence.
half of our
first
we were marching along the bed of a stream, but at

we ascended a narrow defile where mighty rocks towered
journey
length
above
high
or
trees,
our heads,
giant
where with
frame
the
glassy surface
its
around
it
in places
leapt
rill
the
of the scene.
came upon us
as
An armed
we were
was cleverly shooting

were
hunting
party of six friendly Pepohoans
out on a fishing excursion
fellow
their legs
for
his fish
crabs
and devouring them
shell
mountain path that wound
brought us at
Here the
last
trees,
their great lateral
the
yards
in
the
and one old
with an arrow, while the
among
the rocks, twisting off
and
all,
alive.
members of the party caught fish by beating

bamboo rod and thus stupifying their prey.
a
form
to admire
enjoying a bath and a swim
others
like
forest-
mirrored the bright reflection
Here we halted awhile
pool.
They were
clear pool.
over
by great
from ledge to ledge,
of the mountain gorges, and to obtain a photo-
loveliness
graph
clear
ferns as they flung their fronds from the rock to
the
of
arched over
ferns.
its
The younger
the water with a
tedious climb
way through the
forest,
to a change of scene.
many
of them, were of gigantic proportions,
branches striking out
at a considerable altitude
of a ship, from which hung a multitude of the
LALUNG.
plants,
of parasite
stems
bare
We
adrift before the breeze.
of
rising to a great height,
and
and rigging
cables
like
noted a number of
fine
flying
specimens
about four feet in diameter,
largest
the
camphor-tree,
the
straight as an arrow, with a slight
taper and devoid of branches,
reached the free
it
till
above.
air
Besides there were interminable ratan plants, and in a comparatively open space we fell in with a splendid lily of great size
and
in
from
flower, the entire plant standing about twelve feet
full
Orchids,
root.
the
too,
were there
this
we
hill
Pepohoan
got
from
mountains
on
From
some
mile
half
from
and he added that the
four
up
fills
when we entered
river, now
o'clock
and to be seen winding along

But during the
This
this entire bed.
account
the
the
great
torrents
force
of
plain,
carrying with
that
the
sea
land
west,
is
being
altitude
evidently one of the great
is
annually,
throws
their
and
if
we
take
mountains, and the
those
way over
immense
the narrow
quantities of debris
back and deposits along the

the way in which
some insight into

up and redeemed from
shall get
built
of
which make
them
continually
western shore, we
rains,
the river swells to such a volume that
arteries of the drainage of the central mountains
into
tribes
on the payment of
proper banks, which rose about sixty
its
that
and was now
island,
learnt the existence of a fine
above the dry channel of the stream.

assured
over the
on the banks of a broad
dimensions
narrow
to
we were
it
about
this village stands
reduced
feet
was
It
chain.
travelled
a free pass over their territory
bullocks.
Lalung;
had
the
of
side
shore,
eastern
he
filling
summit of
the
mountain
central
party;
From him we
the
granted him
three
our
other
the
homeward bound.
harbour
of the
view
joined
here
abundance,
in
the air with their perfume on every side.
independently of the volcanic action
the ocean on the
still
at
work
in cer-
132
quarters
tain
of
the
Thus we may account
island.
for
the
disappearance of the Taiwan harbour within the brief period of
200 years,
further
must
well
as
as for
formation
the
The formation
south.
be taken into account.
also
found anywhere better than
Takow harbour
of
Perhaps no example can be
Formosa, of the power of water
in
to transform the physical aspect of a country.
on that island no settled water-courses exist
steeps,
weak
attack
On
leaving
stratum,
where we
dry
bed
of
of
most
the
have just
and was
another
village
purely
described,
Here,
is
savage
and
bride.
in
of shale
Mrs. Hong,
for
an hour
and
who
coal.
On
told us that
only separated from the territory

aborigines
its
by the stream which
inhabitants
kinsmen
had
in the
He was expected
to
Pepohoan
villages,
lately lost his wife
mountains to secure
return
accompanied by an escort from

these
number about 1,000
but he soon returned and
his eldest son,
off to his savage
be
course lay
cut through a black rock
traces
we found
informed us that Boon,
would
our
stream,
Hong we found from home,
souls.
tor-
the mountain
would put us up at the village. This lady was

by a party of young savages who carried tackle
Lalung
for fishing.
discovered
reaching a small stream
husband
places
positions in the rocks and soils and form
mountain top
the
the
accompanied
many
In
and thus the
for themselves.
through
her
down
rents in the impetus of their headlong rush
new passages
breakwater
of a great coral-reef
that
night,
and
his partner's tribe.
found the only instance
encountered of Chinamen employing middle-men or brokers to

deal with natives of the country.
It
very often used as go-betweens
the barter trade between the
mountaineers and the
Chinese
in
;
seems that Pepohoans are
for the latter,
though they are
great and patient traders, yet as a rule possess but
little
of the
HONG'S HOSPITALITY.
bold
of adventure,
spirit
They
these highlanders.
fears
ed
found the
men
missionary,
Strangely enough
too.
hill
plied
lately repair-
the
weapons and ammunition used by
destroy wild animals and Chinamen are sup-
to
tribes
by the Chinese themselves.

ties between the wild
hill-tribes
Family
are kept up by constant intermarriage. *

a
is
who
their huts with skulls of
adorning
Chinese foes, and the report goes that they are cannibals
their
the
wholesome dread of
are not without good grounds for their
village at least, a
one
for in
thither,
and entertain
133
The
one.
simple
father
of
the
and the Pepohoans
The wedding ceremony

merely takes
lady
by the hand and passes her over
daughter
then there
is
to
a drinking-revel to conclude the
his
her lord, and
rites.
In the old
Dutch accounts of the people it is said that the offer of a present by a suitor and its acceptance by the lady, entitles the
to be esteemed the legal husband, according to the rule
"Nuptias non concubitus sed concensus facit" and the marriage
Indeed it would almost seem
tie is with equal facility dissolved.
giver
as
if
the "Free Lovers" of America had borrowed their creed
and
of inconstancy
Formosan
Hong, having
his
to
their fickle practices
house,
at length appeared,
insisting
accomplishment
perfect
therefore
from the unchivalrous
tribes.
on the
of
gave us a cordial welcome
more
The porker was
sacrifice of a pig for the
hospitable
rites.
slaughtered before the door and in the presence of a
pack of half-starved hunting-dogs that fought savagely over the

drops of blood. My boy Ahong set it down as his solemn
belief that these people could not, after
See
for
further
information,
translated from an old
all,
be classed as utter
Natives of the West Coast of Formosa,
Dutch work, by Rev. W. Lobschied.
134
barbarians,
At
appear
they clearly understood the use of roast hog.
for
this place
collected a
number
Next morning we
of old
Pepohoan words which
Appendix.
in the vocabularies in the
resumed our journey under the guidance
Goona was
Goona, the youngest son of our host.
of
young savage,
and
of laughter
full
a pure
wearing a crown of
frolic,
ferns on his head and little else by way of clothing.

We were
now descending a narrow path to the dry bed of the river,
when our progress was arrested by a yellowish snake about
seven
I
I
had
which
long,
feet
out
shot
my
in
On
hand.
this the
when we had completed
and
beneath
lodged
managed
to
another dart forward,

him.
the descent
disposed
so
of,
the
cross
to
been
or
opposite where
I
obtained
quarter,
by a
and
we
to
be
hostile tribe about a
managed
set
some twelve miles
also to
out
fall
off.
of snow.
towered more than 200

strata of clay
by the
so,
was anxious
as
month
two men
before, just
the aboriginal tribes in this
photograph the scenery.
again
to
walk
to Lakoli,
About
which lay
At one place we crossed a small stream
soda or potash, had crystallised

recent
enemy made
devoured
of strongly alkaline water, and here, on the banks,
again,
natives
stood.
some good types of
two o'clock we
two
which
the bank,
but he was too big to be
off,
him
left
was urged not to do
but
river,
killed
down
we found him
by one
Pepohoans, who are said to be fond of snakes.
had
staff
him another blow and despatched
dealt
should have carried him
easily
reptile rolled
the mass over, and then our
topple
our track.
across
heavy bamboo
Aided
boulder.
head
his
him over the neck with
struck
in
The banks
feet
some
alkali,
such quantities as to resemble

of the
main stream now
above the dry bed, and alternating
and boulders could be
distinctly seen.
Before us
Right bank of Lakoli
river,
Formosa.
UNIVERSITY
LA-LIAT, CHINESE TRADER.
we had
during the wet season must baffle description.
thousand
veiled
cataracts
vapour
in
rainbow hues, leap from the mountain
downward course
in their
Before us, as
Lakoli
of
few
just
make
rude
out
groping our
fast-failing
we
could
mango and langan
its
around, and
in
land,
tilled
light
left
of rude
laughter and dancing
music,
we
fell
in
with the hut
The
"Kim-Siang." Here we met but a cool reception.
of one
man
was
laid
up with the
we found
opium-smoking, and
adjoining
front
of
wife,
His
hut.
the
woman from
slave
fellow
son,
doorway
effects
girl
and
rheumatism
fanning him in an
and beside him was
mountain
friendly
of
over six feet high, stood in
of the cabin,
a
us
We
at the outskirt of the hamlet.
there was no one to be seen until
old
and tumbling
could see the settlement
hedges and areca-palms,
sounds
with
illumined
and a patch of
the
In
way forwards
hear the
could
but
its
we
dwellings,
but ere long the darkness closed
and
sides, roaring
to the broad river.
a peaceful vale,
in
amid a jungle wilderness.
trees
The grandeur of
Then
panorama of surpassing grandeur.
this region
135
tribe.
Outside
his
this
abode hung festoons of deer-skulls and boar-heads that had been

taken
in
the
pipe,
he
consented
When
chase.
to
the father had finished his opium-
us
allow
to
occupy an outer shed
for
the night.
Anxious to procure food, and a vessel
my
nitrate-of-silver
bath
dryness
to
with the wet collodion process
bath
which to
boil
know what
is
down
familiar
meant by the
having struck work and obstinately refusing to produce a
picture),
liat,"
will
in
(photographers
hill-tribes.
La-liat's
made my way by
Amoy
an
We
abode
man,
found
torchlight to the hut of one
engaged
little
or
here in barter
traffic
"La-
with the
no evidence of any goods
in
there was a table on the clay floor, and a taper
136
flickering
feebly
cheerless
dwelling,
cup of
in
together
and were engaged
entrance
was but
woman
staggered
offered
to
exhausted
on a
little
we wanted,
nothing
of
smoking and drinking.
in
to
even
not
the
woke
of his
former
Strange
trade.
boars'
obtained
their
drunken old
He
relate,
with
from
us raw camphor, skins,
other
party of savages
and then positively refused
jar,
and
he supplied us
Doctor,
the
friend and
remembrance
grateful
in
showed
also
ratan
tusks,
my
recognised
up,
to
acquaintance
payment.
accept
word.
civil
when she had first carefully

who had been sleeping
vessel,
with a dozen eggs and a brown
horns,
Our
noticed and less appreciated; they had
counter,
agreed
to
in this
contents. Meanwhile La-liat,
its
sort
and here,
it,
up with a teapot containing sam-shu, and
us
sell
above
oil
a boisterous party had gathered themselves
wares
which
he
had
who had come down from
hunting-grounds to Lakoli the day before.
In return for
these goods he had supplied them with beads, turkey-red cloth,
knives and gunpowder.
Our armed guide

Ahong,
my
servant,
and
down my bath
job.
First Ahong slept
then we both slept, and
boiling
complained of
myself,
the
alcoholic
terrible shriek
old
my
and so on
woman
on a mat
slept
were
we
the
boy's
in
about
till
a.m.,
was a tedious
It
sat before the fire
fire
then
slept
went low and had to be tended.
sleeping and immediately dozed off
until the
fumes
hut beside us, while
the Chinese pot.
in
as
in the
engaged
whole liquid was evaporated.
passing off caught
and started up
fire;
then
Once
heard a
to find the scared face of a savage
glaring close to mine.
She must have been placed
there to watch us, and she vanished instantly into the darkness
whence
she
had
appeared.
caught sight of the
Ahong,
disturbed
apparition and declared that
in
it
his
sleep,
was the
ABOVE BAKSA.
ably after that incident.

the
have
could
witch
old
how
or
been,
She
she vanished.
certainly looked haggard, hideous and unearthly, and her
was sudden and noiseless. Four hours'

up again by daylight and ready for the road.
too,
my
doctoring,
that
line
to turn
As
it
my
quit
my
range, on
rather have
that, as
thirty
After the night's
every
satisfaction;
was so extremely
it,
instrument
lain
this chapter,
will
it
be necessary
On
limits.
the route
summit of the
the
route, above Lakoli, in place ot
to photograph,
down and
we had by
miles
narrower
homeward
felt
would much
slept, but there was no time for
we
followed, between twenty and
and a day's
to walk before night,
graphing to overtake besides.
My
he had, however, promised to be
at
VNôrk
was not
friend
of photo-
feeling well;
Baksa next day to conduct
we pushed
the service in the chapel there, so
on.
At the foot
I
secured
for a short time to
admire
of another range, on the brink of a clear, cool stream,
two
a
more photographs, and waited
sedgy pool
remainder
toil
over
of
hill
and
the
and
to
day's
an old woman was

hoans in clothing
their
upon a
bathe our
feet in its cool water.
The
journey was almost an uninterrupted
dale.
At noon we halted
ed
alka-
experiences from this point and to condense
our
my
up
setting
Formosa with
within
narrative
first
and we were
rest
to the acid side.
slightly,
summarise
to
used to dilute
flight,
had to employ a goodly supply of Chinese vinegar
must
gave
bath
nitrate-of-silver
only the water which
37
But he did not rest quite so comfortwhat

I am not prepared myself to say
never mind what!
well,
at a small village,
selling fruit.
that
in front
Here a
of a hut where
large party of
might have been decent had
nakedness assembled
to
see
large sheet of water at the place
us
eat.
it
We
Pepocover-
came
where we next halted,
138
and
there
imprudent
we swam about
thing,
but
my
hours after this
some
for
became very
friend
beneath the shade of some shrubs,

not
At
his request
an
hour's
rest
and
finish
the
few
down
for
miles around.
took a picture of
and had to proceed
could get a drop of water to wash
On
the
It
hill
turned
out
my
one of
above Baksa we halted
and were there regaled with a cup of pure honey.
hut
Descending
but
slipped,
this region,
negative.
finest pictures, nevertheless.
A
lie
place where there was
in a
we resumed our march.
ten miles farther on before
at
and had to
ill,
gave him a dose of quinine and iron, and after
one of the deep dry clay-pits of
plate
was probably an
It
drop of clear water to be procured
the
time.
refreshed us for the moment.
it
the
ridge which
fortunately
described at starting,
my
saved myself from the fearful
clinging to the sharp edges of the rock, cutting
my
foot
fall
by
hands badly
in the accident.
But
must now
quit
this
island,
beauty than for the hospitality of
its*
wards travelled overland to Takow,

the
remarkable no
less for its
simple inhabitants.
for the
purpose of
after-
visiting
haunts of the savages farther south, but they were at war
with the Chinese, and their territory could not be entered with
safety.
CHAPTER
VIII.
FOOCHOW AND THE RIVER
MIN.
The Japanese in Formosa Cause of the Invasion The River Min

Foochow Arsenal and Chinese Gun-boats Foochow City and Great
Bridge Beggars A City of the Dead Its Inhabitants ThievesLepers Ku-shan Monastery A Hermit Tea Plantation on Paeling
Hills Voyage up the Min Shui-kow An Upcountry Farm Captain
Sheng and his Spouse Yen-ping City Sacrificing to the DeadShooting the Yen-ping Rapids A Native Passenger-boat.
The
afford
island
an
preferred,
before
of the
kingdom of Japan is to all appearance destined to

example of progress. She has indeed
quote Professor Tyndall's words, " Commotion
unparalleled
to
stagnation,
leap
the
of the torrent before the stillness
swamp;" and we have
leaping torrents in
just seen, in
Formosa, how such
their impetuous courses cut out new channels
the mountain sides, spread fertility over the plains below,

and even reclaim the land from the barren domain of the ocean
with the debris which they sweep down.
in
There
is
future in the
vigorous
life
and hope and high promise
busy movement that
is
ness into civilisation and light; and the impetus,

not,
which she
mighty
is
obstacles
for the
carrying Japan from darkif
we mistake
gathering in her onward course will clear
and
check
quarters as well as her own.
stagnation
and
decay
in
away
other
140
"
The
deep
action
sive
it
and more righteous grounds
wrecked from time
on Chinese
The members
ness moments
have
coasts,
murdered by the savage

perpetrated
sailors,
tribes
soil,
to time
plundered and
been
there
and
of
full
any government to pos-
for
of Japanese
Formosan
upon the
a fact
for such aggres-
would be impossible
Scores
sess.
Formosa by Japanese troops was
invasion of
significance,
as these barbarities
were
redress was applied for at Peking.
of the Imperial Cabinet, in a
moment
of weak-
of not infrequent occurrence in Chinese history
appear to have conceded the right for the Japanese to proceed
Formosa and seek redress
to
extremely
interesting
themselves.
for
know what
to
share
Formosa have
really
castaways
have been reported from the
pretty
the
that
clear
that
"Rover"
to
it
taken
was the Kalee
tribes
by Chinese
perpetrated
believe
it
equally certain
is
"Macto"was
sailors of the
Takow.
villagers at
seems
It
put the crew of
we
If
motives of humanity gave
pure
that
island.
who
death; at the same time
murder of the captain and
that the
would be
aborigines of
cold-blooded massacres of
the
in
It
the
are thus to
rise to this
inva-
Formosa by the Japanese, it would be only just to

award to the Mikado and his ministers the highest meed of
of
sion
praise;
perhaps
but
Japanese
have
China, and
not
still
pitch
of
upon
costly
fall
national
anticipate,
paying
somewhat short of
virtue,
the
cost
be
which
to
of the expedition
so as,
if
vanity,
in
ancient
that the
feuds
against
them
to enter
outrages committed upon
might
mind
that almost unattainable
would induce
redress
advantageous.
humbled her national

Japan,
borne
their
However the matter
crews.
should
rival
be
to
forgotten
expeditions
native
it
ought
it
yet
ends,
its
China
results will as
may
get
off
by
proceeding which, while

stir
her up to imitate and
possible, to outstrip her in the
march of
THE RIVER
from
progress,
sheer
the
have no hesitation
she
as
within
her
the
that
venerable
her
ere
wall,
thrown
across
of
nations
of
the earth.
and
lore
institutions
fossil
on
superstition
is
reared; and
be lowered stone by stone, or over-
will
shock,
violent
till
way has been opened
probably only hasten the
will
it
a fairly accurate forecast which
is
years ago, of the position which China has taken
power,
fighting
Japanese
war.
is
It
shown
the
in
result
extremely doubtful
if
of the late Chinothe
lesson
taught
by the
issue of the conflict will lead to the introduction of
serious
measures of reform.
Since
the
date
any
of the Japanese
on Formosa the Chinese have practically done nothing
raid
the purer institutions of progressive government.
for
made some
a
the
classical
Should war be the alternative,
and
centuries, yet contains
of
work of regeneration." This

as
work loosening the earth about
at
wall
long,
some
with
it
among
busily
is
foundation
ancient
many
for so
pre-eminence
now
even
which
necessity of self-preservation
the material elements that will one day win
all
proud
I41
saying that China, petrified and stagnant
and has been
is,
herself
Truth
in
MIN.
to
strengthen their position and secure themselves against the attack

of even a third-rate power.
I
now
will
again
the
to
Fukien,
take
the island of
China,
of
where,
some information
gathered
made by
progress
of
leave
mainland
the
Chinese
in
Formosa and
in
cross
the province of
relating to the
supposed
the arts of natural defence
and the construction of implements of war.
The
river
province,
is
Min,
one
flowing
of
the
through
main
the
heart
mountainous region where the celebrated Bohea

is
also
the
channel
down which
richest tea districts in China
is
of the Fu-kien
outlets for the drainage of the
the
hills
stand,
and
produce of one of the
conveyed
for exportation.
The
142
broad
one,
is
not navigable for
beyond the town of Shui-Kow, which stands on

bank, at the foot of dangerous rapids, one hundred
vessels
left
its
although
however,
stream,
large
from
miles
channel
the
The
coast.
entrance to the Min by the south
known
nearly opposite to a group of islands
is
"White Dogs."
There
are,
as the
however, two other channels
now
in use; the most northerly between Sharp Peak Island and the
mainland, and only available for vessels of light draught; while

the
channel
middle
breadth
fathoms deep
low
at
The
to the port.
the anchorage
and
is
forms
purely
transported
"White Dogs" proves of great advantage
about
is
miles
thirty
from the mouth of the
called
is
small
island
conspicuous
Chinese
edifice,
suddenly
to
fleet
"Pagoda Anchorage," and takes

crowned with an old pagoda,
object
in
But
the landscape.
for
one might readily suppose oneself

scene
on the
river Clyde.
There
the houses of a small foreign settlement, and yonder are
a dock,
tall
chimneys and rows of workshops, whence the clang
steam-hammers
Here,
in
fact,
is
and
the
the
hum
Foochow
of
engines
Arsenal,
on
may
an
English manufacturing village.
intrusted
under
with
the
its
direction
of
reorganisation.
M.
But
heard.
in the distance
This was destroyed by
the French in 1884, and has since been reconstituted.
mission
be
a piece of level
ground redeemed from an old swamp, and looking

like
not quite so
wide enough to contain the entire merchant
name from
which
of
is
Kin-pai and Min-Ngan passes, through which
This spot
of China.
stand
Peak, has a
nearly three
is
gained, recalled the approaches to the Pearl river.
is
The harbour
this
Sharp
and-
The south channel
tide.
lighthouse built on the
that
the
nor yet so direct, except for vessels trading south.
roomy,
river,
of
south
the
to
about three-quarters of a mile,
of
Doyere has
side
A French
just
been
by side with the
FOOCHOW ARSENAL.
residences on the
there
hill,
43
a crescent-shaped stone shrine of
is
imposing proportions, designed to correct the Feng-shui, which
been seriously disturbed by the construction of an arsenal
has
after a foreign type.
This
Feng-shui,
to
dread of the
common
of Feng-shui and
to
But
be.
we
us
let
visit
by
enclosed
about
people
of
five
brick
above the
with
smiths
The engine which
'
pin.
seen
biggest
also of granite
is
spectators.
mammoth
engine
The
first
lofty roof
It
and
and which
iron avenue, lined
blast
steamer
it
may
also
is
rises
is
supplied
on both
by steam.
and
for
be seen quickening a row
forces mighty
afloat,
may
enough to forge a
appear, these giant tools
contains
rolling
shaft
or so delicate as to straighten
little
the
out
when
first
impression on their Chinese
The next workshop we

one,
its
Passing in through a spacious
whose
produced but
preceding
by
ministers to these forges has a driving-wheel
Strange as
working,
better judges
solid granite foundation,
floor.
forges,
of steam-hammers, with
the
be overcome;
of a plain English railway-station.
on
of colossal proportions, and
for
much
land, reminds us,
which
wall,
feet
this
steps like this the
will readily
doorway we make our way along an

sides
By
the Chinese foreign arsenal.
when we
enter
constructed
then
influences than they themselves can pretend
its
and general appearance,

is
and
and was relegated to
hill-side.
account their scholarly mandarins
building
speed,
Feng-shui, indeed, had to yield
on the
they
was raised
consideration.
station
humble
fanatic
for
possible
all
soil,
expedient to remodel
it
luck of the locality, was treated
stern necessity of the times,
the
very
the others on Chinese
Geomantic
or the
scant
but
with
all
equipments with
military
their
like
arsenal,
because the authorities deemed
simply
visit
is
as spacious as the
half-formed
skeleton
of a
sheet-iron and steel armour-
144
An
plating for iron-clad ships.
diameter,
in
iron driving-wheel, eighteen feet
be seen there, propped up
to
is
We
position.
in
next cross a broad paved court having a line of railway along
one
of
used
sides,
its
workshops which run

shops
these
In
of
sort
school,
by
taught
Chinese
wôrking
instructors,
Many
rivet-holes
educating
models
of
skill
throw
field
punching
be
and
used
in
work
carried
out
the whole betokening an advanced degree
under
achieved
my own
part,
firmly believe that
the
from what
when
All these
guidance of European
I
have seen
the Chinese find
it
in
these
convenient
off their grossly superstitious notions regarding foreign
inventions
the
been
For
foremen.
to
complicated
of
to
and knowledge on the part of the workmen.

have
arsenals,
to
is
are
planing-
There are indeed
the pupils of this training-school.
from drawings
results
them,
men who
for iron castings
steam-engines,
of
many admirable specimens

solely
department we found
another
In
making wooden patterns
constructing
others
of the
apartment a powerful machine
boiler-plates.
in
work,
at
of
all
and guiding the
steam-lathes
the
one
In
is
and modelling are
had two or three months before been ordinary
machines,
labourers.
men
at
its
one there
in
wonderful aptitude displayed by the
the
appliances employed in the arsenal.

there
river.
in
up a knowledge of the various mechanical
picking
in
and
drawing
These
masters.
me on
to
and face the

shipbuilding
on
carried
where mechanical
French
remarked
being
are
rails
and
the
to
engineering
practical
branches
various
conveying materials to the different
in
parallel
and
appliances,
they
will
excel in
all
that pertains
exact sciences, and in their practical application to the
construction
of machinery.
The mandarins connected with
the
arsenal look with pardonable vanity at the steam gun-boats that
have been
built
under their own eyes, and sent into commission
NATIVE HERBALIST.
NATIVES-FUKIEN PROVINCE.
NATIVE MARINES.
from
own
their
and the
Chinese
and
conducted
over
all
the
an
be
we
This
ship.
pronounced
to
throughout.
The woodwork
honest,
nautical
cabin
is
not
each
inelegant
style
seaman
effects
and
in
in
and
friend present
piece
of
work
simply varnished,
The
and relieved with narrow gold mouldings.

and mess-room are finished
received by the
masterly
solid,
of the
stocks.
are
with great courtesy,
lieutenant,
his
gunboat had
a few days previous to our
former,
board the
captain
slip
was already on the
vessel
sister
on
Proceeding
naval and shipbuilding yards.
been launched from the patent

visit,
145
officers'
cabin
same unpretending and yet
the
the sailors' quarters
we
notice that
supplied with a strong teak bunker to hold his
is
and to serve him also instead of a couch or
This
chair.
gun-vessel carries one huge Armstrong gun on her upper deck,
and
is
to
armament,
pirates,
be
fitted
therefore,
with
the
Her
enemy to
same weapons throughout.

her
render
will
formidable
though not perhaps of much service
combat with
in a
any European power.
Our next
arsenal,
visit
is
to
are
saluted
forms us
his cabin.
in
The
pair of neat
in
military
style
off the
is
in-
shall find the captain in
admirable, consisting of
blue blouse, pantaloons with red stripe, and a
and strongly made native shoes.
side-arms.
on board, and
drill pidjin,"
we
dress of this marine
fastens in the blouse at the waist
box and
by a Ningpo marine, who
tolerable English that
black turban,
squab,
commission lying
in
Stepping on deck from the gangway,
an entirely Chinese crew.
we
vessel
and manned throughout, from captain to cabin-boy, by
says,
An
officer
" S'pose
an offer which
we
well-kept belt
and supports also a cartoucheof marines next welcomes us
you
likee
my
gladly accept.
one too muchee new, other
olo,
can show you
"My
can saby
my
hab got two

drill
pidjin."
lO
146
He means
time,
two squads, one well trained and
to say that he has
raw
other
the
the
at
so,
recruits.
wants
It
captain's
minutes to
fifteen
still
we
request,
will
take
drill
a peep into
his cabin.
on a small
strange
this
resembles that of some English gunboats;
table,
supported by graceful brackets, we note
most respects
In
but
assortment
around a small
of
foreign
nautical
instruments
was the only
This idol
idol.
visible
spread
token of
native superstition, and was used in conjunction with the baro-
and
meter
thermometer
lucky days
out
find
for
coming
avoid
to
sailing.
storms,
or
to
Having partaken of wine with
we next return to the upper deck to

The bugleman sounds to quarters, and
our hospitable entertainer,

see the marines at
drill.
the men, with Enfield

into
position,
hands,
rifles in their
fall,
or rather tumble
Then one more
six or eight at a time.
than his fellows, pops his head out of a hatchway,

himself that
satisfy
in
dilatory
order to
company could not be dispensed
his
with,
scrambles on deck as he drags himself into his blouse and pan-
and
taloons,
placed their
but
appear orderly enough,

a sudden
twinge of
comrade
the
side
he
fixes his belt as

rifles,
politely
all
judge,
absence
of
the
discipline
line,
fellow, feeling
and
all
perhaps
ranks to clear his throat over
proceeds,
drill
but
its
its
forms seemingly well

object, so far as
Thus there
almost entirely ignored.

the
too, have mis-
got into
drops his weapon to have a scratch.
leaves
understood by most of the men,

could
Some,
in.
fairly
one unlucky
until
itch,
and so the
falls
have now
we always
associate
is
we
marked
with naval
or
military training.
The
and
opticians
the brass
make
ships'
work of other
acquired these arts
it
is
compasses,
portions
nautical instruments.
difficult
to
make
of sextants
How
they
out, as their foreign
FOOCHOW FEMALE.
CHINESE SEAMSTRESS.
"'^
OF THB
UNIVERSITY
FOOCHOW
teacher
to
147
complete ignorance of their language.
his
Giguel was the chief director of this establishment.
P.
is
confessed
CITY.
The Viceroy Tso, under whose auspices the arsenal was built,
also deserving of some credit, although he was not the first
to see the need for a change in the construction of the warlike
implements
of
nation.
his
The monthly expenditure
whole establishment was reported

the
that
discharged
authorities
what may have been
me
to
from
the
their reason
about ^17,000.
foreign
of the
It
appears
employes,
though
which happened
for this step,
Japanese invaded Formosa,
before the
just
at
it
impossible for
is
and as may be supposed, the step has proved
say,
far
beneficial.
Foochow
one
city,
of the great tea marts of China, stands
about seven miles above the arsenal and the harbour where the
load
vessels
Of
tea.
most picturesque, and

proves
open ports
the
this
perhaps the
is
stone bridge of "ten thousand ages "^
Chinese, had they so chosen, might have
the
that
all
its
monuments behind them more worthy of
their civilisation
left
and
prowess
than their great unwieldy wall monuments, which

would have shed a gleam of truth across the obscure pages of
bygone
their
history.
This bridge was erected,
it
is
said,
about
900 years ago, and
displays no pretensions to ornamentation
except
balustrade.
in
its
stone
It
is
indeed evident that
builders had convenience and durability alone in view;
masses
of
by the
proportions,
granite
solid
lapse
to
of
time,
the
skill
then
bear
employed,
high
still
length,
are,
piers
above.
The
of the ancient engineers
bridge
is
little
injured
testimony, in their colossal
them up out of the water and placed them

stone
but
its
and the
in
who
raised
position on the
fully a quarter of a mile in
and the granite blocks which stretch from pier to pier
some of them,
forty feet long.
148
The
settlement
foreign
middle
of
Chinese
burial-ground,
quence
when
houses,
the
The
stream.
the
hallowed
dead.
to
city
by
rises in the
was formerly that of an old

disputes arose in conse-
be purchased for the erection of
being loath to see the dwellings of living
natives
devils"
site
Foochow
which here
island
and abundant
had
plots
"foreign
separated from
is
by a small
great bridge, and
tlie
erected
But
over
money,
the resting-places of their ovvU
which
exercises
as
potent
an
influence here as elsewhere, procured a solution of the difficulties
even] the
timely
spirits of the
offerings
the
dust
the
hated
at
their
departed were to be consoled by
shrines
and so now, on these
the long-forgotten dead
of
foreign
intruder,
garden
is
and
is
hills,
trodden under foot by
mingles
with the roses with
which
his
adorned.
Even the tombs have, some of
them,
been turned to account.
Living occupants have entered
into joint tenancy with the silent inhabitants
who repose
beneath,
and pigs or poultry may be seen enjoying the cool shade and
shelter
not
which the ample granite gravestone supplies. But
give
any detailed
need
description of the foreign residences at
Foochow.
This
of the graves in the foreigners' quarter
notice
supplemented by some account of the

with
in a city
of the dead close by
may be
living tenants to
be met
but before proceeding to
may be
describe
the
condition of these wretched beings,
well
give
the reader a notion of the condition of the poor
in
to
Foochow.
lested,
and
recognition
In
has
at
China the beggar pursues
it
his calling
as
unmo-
even won for himself a protection and quasi-
the hands
of the civic authorities.
The
fact is
that the charitable institutions of the country cannot cope with

a
tenth
populous
part
of the
localities.
misery
No poor
and
law
destitution
is
that
prevails in
known, and the only plan
Chinese Tomb.
BEGGARS.
adopted
to
palliate
and to place
responsible
chief.
and
the
within
the
evil
is
Foochow
In
to
begging
tolerate
under
lazzaroni
the
149
the
local
the city
of a
divided into wards,
is
of each ward a head-man
limits
public,
in
jurisdiction
appointed,
is
able to trace his descent from a line of illustrious beggar chiefs,
who,
like
their
order under their
my
himself, exercised the right to
stay
in
Foochow
keep the members of
own management and
control.
During
was introduced to one of these beggar
kings; he was an inveterate opium-smoker, and consequently in
reduced circumstances.
head-man.
son
His
me
conducted
there
two
ment
in
eldest
afterwards visited the house of another
me
received
at
ladies dressed in silks passed the
order
to
a glimpse at
steal
the entrance and
chamber; and while
into a guest's
its
was seated
door of the apart-
These were
inmate.
who
the chief and second wives of this Lord of the Lazzaroni,
was
himself
unfortunately
absent
on
afterwards
business.
in their
power
secured his photograph.
Beggar chieftains of
kind have
this
men
an agreement with the business
it
to
make
of the streets in their
re-
spective wards, under which they levy a kind of fluctuating poorrate
for
the
composition
maintenance of themselves and their subjects.

thus
entered
whereon the chief has placed

of his
tattered troops.
exempts the
into
his
Woe
or shops
mark, from the harassing raids
betide the
shopman who has the

The most loath-
courage to refuse his dole to these beggars
some and
streets
pertinacious specimens of the naked tribe will
be de-
spatched to beset his shop.
Thus, while walking along one of
the
and
of
best
filthy
streets of the city,
object
the fraternity,
carried
myself saw a revolting, diseased
on the shoulders of another member
who marched
into a
shop and deposited
his
burden on the polished counter, where the tradesman was serv-
I50
customers
ing
pipe
ornaments
with
and food
shrines
for
The bearer, with cool audacity, proceeded

and smoke until he had been paid to remove
gods.
worse
still
was narrated
case
me by
to
the
for
to light his
the cripple.
an eye-witness.
silk-mercer had refused to contribute his black-mail, and accord-
received
ingly
domiciliary
from a representative of the
visit
This intruder had smeared his bare body with mud, and
chief.
carried a bowl slung with cords and filled with foul water to the
very brim. Having taken up his stand
ed to swing
a
drop of
shower over the

there
outlaws
silks piled
is
and
these were the
charnel-houses
the
men whom
a
in
They contained
favourable
and
worse
allegiance to no prince or
were
hour
coffins
variety
of
surviving
bringing
coffins
beggars
Many
of the
in
little
with brick and roofed with
built
when
for interment,
dust.
causes,
relatives
But
not
poverty,
death,
infrequently
from
ever
the rites of Feneshui

laid to rest in
distress,
intervene
choosing
the final ceremonies to a

lie
of
some
where neither wind nor wave would disturb
site
sacred
their
class
power on earth
and bodies placed there to await
might be duly performed, and the remains

well-situated
filthy
shelves.
and found dwellins
visited
of the dead.
city
this dismal spot
in
tiles.
upon the counter and
another
still
who own
the
huts
commenc-
indeed spilling
without
yet so that, had anyone attempted to
contents,
its
the shop, he
in
his head,
arm, the water would have been distributed in a
arrest his
But
bowl round
this
this
to
or
indeed a
prevent the
happy
site
and
consummation; and thus the
forgotten and moulder into dust, and the tombs are
invaded by the poor outcasts,
who
there seek shelter from the
cold and rain, creeping gladly to slumber into the dark corners
of a
the
sepulchre,
dead.
and then most happy when they most imitate
On my
first
visit
to
this
place
recollect being
u
o
o
<u
>
a
UNI
THE "MAQUI."
tomb by hearing some one moan
attracted to an ominous-looking
there.
was growing dark and
It
as
superstitious
little
be an old man clad
was fanning a
But no
owner.
racking
relief
and passing on
mirth,
found
breakfast.
was standing
pipe,
and
he
his
bowls
of
were
moan
Administering some temporary
pain.
to a
tomb where
could hear sounds of
me
smoke with
me
the air of a Chinese
in to inspect the interior,
were busily engrossed with chopsticks and
partners
reeking scraps collected on the previous day.
coffins that
of suf-
front of the entrance, enjoying a post-prandial
offered
chatting
seated
almost fancied he was the ghost of
After this he invited
gentleman.
where
in
them again next morning and came upon the

The head-man a lusty, half-naked lout
beggars.
visited
He
inmates inside, the members of a firm of
four
group
at
cold wind was chilling his thin blood and
with
joints
his
felt
of withered branches, but he was
there was no mistaking the
The
fering humanity.
have, perhaps,
and beheld what seemed to
there was a coffin too, looming out from
darkness within, and
the
may
in
too scant to cover his frame.
in rags
made up
fire
not the only tenant
its
peeped
151
noisily,
too,
surrounded them.
They
and of the
forgetful of their cares
One, the jester of the party, was
astride a coffin, cracking his jokes over the skull of its
occupant.
While
at
Foochow,
after
visiting
the
might as well see what the detectives are
commonly known
are
a
attached
small
the
bulk
to
as
the
the
"Ma-qui" or "Swift
yamens of the
stipend out of the

of
their
The Ma-qui
is
Government
thought
These men are

as horses,"
local authorities,
and
receiving
supplies, but obtaining
earnings from persons
stolen goods, or even
beggars,
like.
who seek
to recover
from the thieves themselves.
supposed to know personally
all
the professional
152
robbers of his district
from
the
thieves
least
one
half
the
probable that he
of
actions
this
who simply
from
both
property
of the articles lost
Ma-qui, at
failing this,
it
a broker, and takes his heavy percentage
Should
the
he
price
and
refuse
thieves
offers,
tortured.
from gaol
run
they
photographed
to yield
up the
the risk of being

a
who had
thief
he had been an unprofitable burglar,
a bad constituent of the Ma-qui, and was accordingly triced
by the thumbs
the bare bones exposed.
who might more
detective,
had known and profited by
striving
upon him the danger
impress
falling into
his
up
away, and
was told of
this
in
with an old thief whom he
former times, but

to
lead
to
who was now

life.
He at
an honest
there, in order to
which he exposed himself
in
honest ways, suspended him by the thumbs, stripped
clothes,
When
joint.
discharged him with one arm put out of
and
thief
discovered, the Ma-qui
and
subordinates,
his
fell
in
had the man conveyed to prison, and
once
off
and
clad
It
flesh
appropriately be called the chief of
the thieves, that he, one day,
respectably
worn the
the cords had
until
but
nothing
left
is
But trans-
never hear of his goods again.
as
the
escaped
his property
liberal offer to the
kind are generally effected through the Ma-qui,
sides.
imprisoned
just
make
value
will
acts
at
and one wishing to recover
must
this plan fail,
it
is
the profession and cannot be
is
not
is
liable to
they
in
in
He
be whipped.
then whips
turn whip the thieves.
Should
reported that the police have been whipped
and that the stolen property cannot be found.
word about leprosy and the leper
This
disease
not
variety
of
in
almost
every
infectious
an
its
city.
by many
uncommon one
loathsome
forms
villages of the Chinese.
China
in
the public streets of
This disease, however,

Asiatics, as well as
may
in
is
not
be seen
held to be
by a number of European
S2ECHUAN HERMIT.
LEPERS.
UNIVERSITY
A LEPER VILLAGE.
who have had
physicians,
my own
for
part,
prescribe for the sufferers, and,
to
am
153
inclined to adopt their view.
It
has
been proved that the malady, although to a certain extent

hereditary, will at last die out of a family. Thus, in the Canton
also
there
village
leper
who
are direct descendants of lepers,
from
free
entirely
are
and
disease;
the
now
alive,
the
leper
in
was informed that the inhabitants were

permitted to marry and rear families; and the statement was
evidently true, for we found there many parents surrounded by
Foochow
settlement at
some
children,
were
whom, though they had reached
of
from
free
still
blight that
the fearful
had
maturity,
fallen
on the
wretched community around.
The
about
village
a mile
Mr.
Rev.
the
now about
set
to
which
Mahood
allude
four
is
a walled enclosure, standing
east gate of the city
pay a
to
visit
set out with
to this asylum.
It
was
in the afternoon; a drizzling rain had already
overcast
darkness
and a sudden
in
beyond the
entered the gate of the
The
village.
the
heavens
as
we
dreariness of the weather
and the gloominess of the gathering clouds overhead, intensified

the wretchedness of the scene; and we were soon surrounded
by a crowd of men, women and children, some too loathsome
to
and
description,
bear
all
clamouring for alms to buy food
to sustain their miserable lives; nor did their importunity cease

until
keep
the
governor
his
subjects
of the place, himself a leper,

in
order.
It
came out
would appear that the
to
original
idea of the institution, like the majority of native institutions in
China,
much
had been
the
lost
sight
of,
means by which the
and
that
officials
it
is
extort
now made as
money from
wealthy lepers, as of conferring a boon upon the community by

keeping the lepers shut up and cut off from contact with the
outer
world.
The poor among them, who
are unable to pay
154
for
own maintenance,
their
by government,
sufficient to
out
of twelve,
and
the
public
certain
freedom
they are daily sent adrift into
streets
may
unite
together
and
visits.
This
from their most objectionable
numbered something over 300
settlement
sum
believe, as in the case of ordinary
and
shops
beggars,
little
for the rest
highways, and
purchase
are allowed a nominal annual
support them probably one month
souls,
once contained a theatre for the amusement of
its
and had
inhabitants,
but that edifice had long fallen into decay.
The
of
streets
Foochow
are so similar to the streets of
all
the other cities of Southern China as to require no description

here.
Foochow,
temples and
unless
outside,
quainted
an
with
Feng-shui,
parade-grounds,
its
or
little
who
one
to
its
yamens,
its
of great importance to the citizens
all
and of comparatively
themselves,
from
has
too,
pagodas
its
interest to the stranger
wishes to
make
himself ac-
endless variety of dry details as to religion,
local
jurisdiction
none of which subjects could
possibly be digested into a volume of such dimensions as mine.

I
will
therefore only remark as
must not
to
fail
observe
the
quit the town, that the visitor
oysters
oysters
only very good, but very remarkable too
be
said
bamboo rod
that a
highly-prized
shell-fish
Foochow, one
and
is
in their
which are not

way.
It
yet, in the
main thoroughfares
finds an endless array of fish-stalls
clusters
on bamboo rods, stuck into the beds
season, pulled
up again when mature, and brought
at
where oysters
are served out to passing customers, and these oysters are

in
may
not the "native climb" of that
grown
proper
at the
in this fashion
to market.
There are
number
of trades which are peculiar to this city,
and among the most interesting

lamp,
is
that of the lamp-maker.
of a very pretty though fragile kind,
is
made up
One
of thin
YUAN-FU MONASTERY.
rods
of
The
lustre;
effective
know,
together
closely
so
set
glass,
basketwork.
155
almost
as
to
imitate
shines through these rods with a very
light
and though no lamps of the
so far as
sort,
yet been introduced into this country, they would
have
form very attractive novelties
garden
at a
fete.
There are many charming resorts in the vicinity of Foochow

but to my mind " Fang-Kuang-Yen-tien-chuan," better known as
"Yuan-fu" monastery,
the
It
was
foreign
my
sleet
branch
tains
made
known
to the natives as the "
the
The bold moun-
but
" or " five tiger " range,

it
was nearly mid-day
shred of vapour had withdrawn from the rugged

has been called the "Lover's Leap."
which
crag,
The mountains
of
to
rise
a considerable altitude about this part
and terminate
river,
bold rocky
in
wherever an available patch of
soil
cliffs
but beneath,
to be found,
is
it
has been
terraced and cultivated up to the very face of the rocks.
days
were spent amid a ceaseless diversity of grand
mountain scenery
above the
first
them;
and on the third morning,
as
we landed
rapid,
My
fu monastery.
with
all.
cold with drifting
Intense
Wu-hu
mist
in a thin veil of
last
overhanging
them
party for a cruise on the
river Min.
the
of
the prospect ahead unpromising.
were wrapped
before the
the most fascinating of
who made up
merchant,
Yuan-fu
is
to visit that retreat as the guest of a
good fortune
friends
for
me,
to
make
had brought
Two
river
and
at a short distance
the journey to Yuan-
their sedans
and bearers
hired one at the nearest village,
my
dog, as was his custom, at once scrambling inside, and stowing
The
himself comfortably beneath the seat.
mountain use, was so small that
for
and awkward
(I
position.
had the curiosity
and
this
brought us
to
chair being intended
had to
sit
in a
cramped
At one spot there is a flight of 400 steps

count them as our progress was slow),
to the entrance of the ravine overlooked
156
by the monastery, which was
most romantic
also perhaps the
Above
of scenery to be encountered there.
bit
these steps the
path winds beneath a forest, and around a rich undergrowth of
and
ferns
flowering
terminate
which
through
the
the
This
dell
was incense burning before

cut
its
suddenly
to
forms the passage
reality
small idol stood at
As we ascended a narrow
we obtained a full view of
shrine.
the face of the rocks,
in
There
monastery.
the
in
approached.
is
seems
finally
cave
of the rocks, on the right of the entrance, and there
foot
path
and
shrubs,
cave.
in
it
with
stood
broad eaves, carved
its
roofs and ornamental balustrades, propped up on the face of a

precipice 200 feet in height, and resting above this awful abyss
nothing more durable than

wooden beams.
on
a slender-looking
There were only three monks
framework of
residence here
in
one a mere
boy, the second an able-bodied youth, and lastly the abbot,
was
old,
and
infirm
blind.
ment commanding a good view of the

chamber were a pine
this
and on the
forms
itself,
wood; and
nights,
latter
in
it
dressed in
my
The
this
their
and a pine bed,
table, a pine chair
same unyielding wooden pillow which
As
and durable appurtenance.
unluxurious
contrivance
which were here extremely
apartment beneath,
pray.
and
Inside
for the
was a kind of square chocolate-coloured well of

cold.
packed together
Every evening
themselves warm.
in
the
cheap
usual
its
bedstead
the
valley far beneath,
out of thin pine planks, plastered over with lime.
built
who
was accommodated with an apart-
at
had to pass the
My
like
coolies slept in
keep
sardines, to
about sunset,
my
friends,
yellow canonicals went up into the temple to
fervour of a long-winded prayer was
eyes when
the young devotee
found that
it
who chanted
much impaired
was meaningless
it.
On
mummery
one of the
altars
to
saw
Yuen-fu Monastery, Fukien Province.
KU-SHAN.
157
an image known as the "Laughing Buddha," the god of longevity
and
before
been
jovial-looking
this
sticks,
placed
tained
in
monk
when
This
fire,
"Drum
burn
of day or night might be
level,
cultivated plain.
celebrity, as the great
near
its
came
to the place.
rises abruptly
The mountain enjoys
"Ku-Shan" monastery
summit, on a
Rome,
Mountain," stands about seven miles
below Foochow, and forms part of a range that

out of the
for twelve
the one already burning
had been smouldering uninter-
assured me,
or
fire-
clay bed con-
flat
will
like the vestal fires of
ruptedly for untold years before he
"Ku-Shan,"
stick
Thus the time
about to expire.
old
Each
ignited
is
ascertained at a glance.
so the
each other over a
to
parallel
box of bronze.
hours, and a fresh one

is
had
joss-stick timepiece
idol
This timepiece consists of a series of thin
up.
set
site said in
is
a wide
built in a valley
ancient times to have been
the haunt of poisonous snakes or dragons, able to diffuse pesti-
up storms, or
lence, raise
One Ling-
blight the harvest crops.
was entreated to put a stop
chiau, a sage,
to these ravages
so
the good man, repairing to the pool in which the evil serpents
dwelt, recited a ritual called the
like
wise
serpents,
they
Hua-yen
took instant
treatise,
flight.
It
before which,
must indeed
have been a powerful composition, for not even deadly snakes
would
risk
second
erected
miracle,
the
recital,
Hua-yen
and the Emperor, hearing of the

monastery on the spot,
in the
year 784.
The
establishment,
constantly rebuilt on
able
additions
though
its
repeatedly
destroyed,
has
been
original foundations, receiving consider-
from time to
time,
until
at the present
accommodates 200 monks. The ascent from the
plain
is
day
it
a steep
and tedious one, but many picturesque views of the surrounding
country
are
to
be obtained en
route,
and we reach the
158
monastery
through a grove of ancient pine-trees,
itself at length,
2,500 feet above the level of the sea.
Inside the
four colossal images of the protectors
sit
Ku-Shan monastery,
made up
almost
like
such
all
paved courtyard
is
and opening inwards from
the walls which surround this enclosure,
of
the
monks.
At
Buddha are shown, and

of weary pilgrims from
in
edifices in China,
of three great detached buildings, set one behind the
other, in a spacious
ments
main entrance
of the Buddhist faith.
it
is
this
shrine
we may see the apartnumber of relics of
said that they annually
draw crowds
Sacred animals too are maintained
afar.
if there be any member of the brute creation

shown more than usual instinct, it will find a welcome
the grounds, and
that has
reception here.
The "Three Holy Ones,"
the chief images of every Buddhist
temple, were here as conspicuous as usual in the central shrine
each figure being
and
rising
instance
in this
more than
up behind the customary
altar
thirty feet in height,
bespread with cande-
labra and votive offerings of various sorts.

I
remained three days
leisure
in
more frequently than
the rest.
which access to
chamber was
bare apartment,
a deal
table
this
lit
and a
some member of
image,
by
on
intervals tolling a bell
some distance from

could
of
the
to be gained, we entered a
window above and furnished with
I
precepts
suspended
the
one among them
Having mounted the ladder by
Within
chair.
priests,
was always certain to
the order improving himself
meditating
beautiful
a small
my
and occupied some of
in this place,
rooms of the
the
visiting
central
in a
of his
by
sect,
tower above.
temple,
in
find
sitting like
and
at
Then
an
long
again,
one of the many
avenues on the mountain-side, was a water-bell, that
be heard
one of the
there night and day.
tolling
rocks
Against the foot
small hut had been constructed.
One
THE MORNING BELL-YUEN-FU MONASTERY.
OPIUM SMOKING.
UNIVERSITY
s^CALIfOSJ^
A HERMIT.
day
ventured within
on a stony ledge
of the
thing
was thinking
had seen
it
some
for
set
was about the
when
time,
up
finest
the head
forward, the limbs unbent, and the idol descended from
moved
perch
its
and found a Buddhist image,
it
inside.
sort
159
"Venus
incessu
much
venture to affirm so
" Tsing, tsing,
"What
can
you come.^"
side
"Long
quickly vouchsafed:
hardly
was
his
returned the enquiry, and
to
my
time
.i^"
Less awe-stricken than
on the ground.
might perhaps have been expected,

asked:
No,
good morning; what side you come
sir,
as he lighted
greeting,
Deus?"
patuit
of this bald-headed, yellow-robed god.
which
his
response was
got this side."
This, then,
whom report had said so much. It turned

been an Amoy trader, and after years of strife
was the hermit, of

out that he had
with the
world,
had come to end
mossy
his sins within this
The
company,
up
at
days'
north of Foochow.
two of
the
in
Here some
locality.
friends.
visited in
We
put
acquaintance
with
approached the
edifice,
English
the
It
be
to
"Good
do what, we enquired
but
who had
tongue to the priest
therefore startled us
met by
Buddha, evidently proud to parade

salutation:
foreigners
had imparted a very limited and
district before us,
presided at the shrine.
with the
These
my Foochow
temple on one of the farms, and made a three
small
the
confused
fifteen miles
as the guest of
stay
visited
who
days and repent him of
nearest tea-plantations in this province are in the Paeling
about
Hills,
his
dell.
his
this
when we
ragged follower of
knowledge of our language,
morning, can do! you bet!"

alas
Can
our friend's vocabulary was
limited to this single phrase.
The farms
in
the
size,
land
are
usually small,
seldom exceeding a few acres
and are rented by the poor from

tax.
To
these
capitalists
who pay
landowners the tenants undertake to
l6o
dispose
their crops at a certain stipulated price.
of
men who grow
that tea which
any
to China, very rarely possess
of
like
millions
earn
but
thus
produce.
all
At
the
when
leaves,
proper
the
of April
and
they
can
season
that
is
gathered, are partially dried in the sun, and
the neighbourhood attends.
usually
usually in the
picking of the leaves takes place.
first
then offered for sale in baskets, at a kind of
ports
themselves
fellow-countrymen,
a hard-won sustenance out of the luxury which they
beginning
These
capital at
labouring
their
Thus the
much wealth
a source of so
is
Cantonese
The
here
fair,
which
at
all
native buyers from the foreign
enter upon a keen competition,
and buy up as much as they can of the leaves. In the end the
from
bought
lots
by the
together
of
variety
these
and
purchaser,
then
small
farms are mixed
subjected
to the firing
already described, up-country, in houses hired specially for that
purpose.
Thousands
picking
in
of
out
poor
stems
women and
and
stalks
winnowed, the cured portion
process
parcels,
first
carried away,
or
sifted,
"chops"
fire.
the
third
which
is
When
the firing
and separated into two

as they are called, the
is
made
perfectly
the second
is
somewhat
inferior
of the stalks, dust and siftings.
innocuous
and wholesome,
is
This
used
in
country to mix with better sorts of teas and thus to produce
the cheap
good teas of commerce.
These parcels or chops are next packed

90
and the uncured
and highest "chops" consist of the small-
and best-twisted leaves
while
last,
different
is
employed
which the leaves are
after
of each parcel varying with the quantity prepared at a
Thus the
time.
est
completed, the tea
is
three
quality
this
children are next
behind to be subjected again to the
left
or
is
lbs.,
half-chests
of
40 or 45
lbs.,
into chests of about
and boxes of 21
lbs..
TEA CULTURE.
of them with lead, and thus forwarded to the open
lined each
ports
for
begin
not
of the
Min a
arrive
speak
Bohea
about
been opened
down
skill.
end
the
The
of
cargoes, as a rule,
but
April;
at
the
had
some time
till
The year
in June.
before the
mandarins gave native dealers credit for the duties on the
and
should
them
aided
thus
back
hold
to
the Chinese,
secure
to
The probable advantage

merchant
to
resist.
many
facilities,
banks
in
to
rates
among themselves
with losses
and
But now
let
tea crop
too
great
But
although
as
borrowing
such
Foochow
pay high
teas
leaf,
until scarcity
to succeed in banding together,
the
to be gained
temptation
presents
their
the market into rates highly favourable to China.
force
The Europeans do not seem

like
to
market, for two or three seasons past,
at
the
teas are brought
voyage, as we shall presently see,
no ordinary nerve and
to
time
Most
the river
sale.
Foochow by
requiring
l6l
on
by being
for
the
profitable terms.
first in
the market
impetuous
the
Chinese
sellers
money from
foreign
enjoy
the Foreign
against the " chops " which they hold, they have
of
and the up-country competition
interest,
too,
is
strong
so that they are not unfamiliar
heavy ones too sometimes.
us proceed up
country and gather some notion
of the difficulties which beset the transit of this precious herb.

I
made an excursion
Yen-ping
valuable
city,
in
the
for
200
company
miles
up the Min,
as
far as
of Mr. Justice Doolittle,
whose
book on the "Social Life of the Chinese"
of years of painstaking labour and careful observation
people of
started
kindly
at
this district.
Shui-kow,
for
placed at
my
Armed
at
the result
among
the
with the requisite passports,
we
mid-day on December
disposal
is
2,
in a
yacht
by one of the English merchants
Foochow.
Boating
on
Chinese
river
and with
Chinese crew
II
is
62
always a trying experience to the temper of a European, except
where
men have been bound by
the
work
fixed price
for
boatmen
of the
duty
as
by nature wealthy, and that
that foreigners are
themselves
to
If
neglected the notion takes possession
has been
this precaution
contract to perform their
and within a given period of time.
who
by
are always, both
and
birth
by necessity, extremely poor they must take the most of the

which
opportunity
rare
good fortune
has
cast
enjoy
to
good
more
good deal
deeper drains
deal
food,
more than
a
longer
set
way.
themselves
their usual scanty leisure, a

spell
of the opium-pipe and
Hence
of the sam-shu flask.
out
in their
men
Inspired by such considerations as these, the
in one's diary
such jottings as the following by no means infrequently recur:

"
The men have been amusing themselves

on
boat
the
sandbanks
to
all
day
and eating rice."
long, running
"Tracking-line
entangled again with that of another boat two crews quarrelling

;
an
half
for
another half-hour spent
hour,
in apologies,
and a
third in disentangling the lines."
Sunday
Bamboo
we
spent
Crags.
and stopped
Here
quietly
I
at
place
for awhile to rest
Teuk-kai,
called
had a walk ashore with
or
my boy Ahong,
on a green mossy bank, whence
our boat could dimly be made out through a sheet of mist that
rose
We
above the
orange
fruit,
river,
like the
next passed over a lovely

plantations,
and the
orchard
we
of country, through olive and
where the trees bent down beneath their
seemed laden with perpetual
air
fell
steam from a cauldron's mouth.

bit
in
fragrance. In one
with a watchman ensconced
in
a snug
little
bamboo table, a tea-pot, two chairs and

and kittens. The old man had been watching the
straw hut, containing a

a
fine
cat
place, he said, for
way
more than
half a century
he showed us the
to the farm, conducting us through fields of sugar-cane to
>
VOYAGE UP THE RIVER

group
the
had
down on
sat
When we
Ahong confessed
scenes of travel,
had
left
time been a Christian
it
change of
be
faith
good thing
laid
in
hereafter
and
among
to me,
by
In a general
his friends.
have one's
other matters,
He had
at
one
way he thought
plenty of pork while alive
have
to
all.
Singapore, but had got bullied out of
in
a comfortable coffin
to
this place
a hill-side to talk over old times and former
that he had no particular religious views at
his
163
picturesque well-built brick houses of which the
of
was composed.
settlement
MIN.
and buried
then to
a dry place,
in
and
fed and clothed continuously by
spirit
surviving sons.
Next day we reached Shui-kow and found

of
the
on
hills,
the
unlike any which
new
in its piles
picturesque
its
left
bank of the
had seen on the
it
built
on the slopes
This town was
river.
There was something
plains.
of buildings towering story above story, and in

situation
and here,
too,
found that a water
system had been elaborated out of a complex series of bamboo
and
pipes
brought
mile
away,
which
gutters,
the
in
At Shui-kow
hills.
his
wife, a
him and herself

was Mrs.
there
moment
or
from
hired a "rapid-boat"
captain was Cheng-Show, or
who had
a great deal to say both for
Thus, when we ascended the
Cheng
she
compelled.
high
and
more than a
to
be
seen
well
to
first
the fore
rapid,
at
one
and the mother was fending her boat with a long
destruction
on the rocks.
Then
to her brat again,
to cooking, cleaning, or husband- baiting; to each
pursuit
lady
too.
house,
to
nursing her baby, at another the child had been tossed
into a basket,
pole
house
Our
to take us on to Yen-ping-fu.
rather
from
passed
supplies of water from a spring
constant
was found
equal, as fancy
Ours was a small boat,
bridge and a rudder
in
and every
prompted or necessity
like all the others, carrying
the shape of a long oar, which
64
swung on a pivot
itself,
and
once
in
its
it
is
light,
themselves
about
to
is
make
the vessel turn at
built entirely of pine,
and admirably adapted
is
every respect
in
of the perilous rapids which begin to show
navigation
the
This oar was nearly as long as the boat
when used was

own length. The craft
as strong as
for
aft.
effect
its
half
We
mile above Shui-kow.
for the night close to a military station, if
anchored
two or three shanties
and the half-dozen miserable-looking soldiers armed with matchlocks,
who occupied them,
could be honoured with so dignified
a name.
Next morning, as
usual, there
was a thick fog upon the
river.
This prevented our seeing more than two or three feet around
the
and put a stop to
boat,
Our
noon.
ku-kwan
traffic
till
within an hour of
was the
village of
Ching-
and there Mr. Doolittle and myself went ashore to
inspect a
Snake Temple.
be
in
seen
there,
all
halting-place that evening
set
this
up
for
There was no image of the snake to
shrine
but the tablet of the snake king was
worship
holy place, and
in a
we
learned that
during the seventh month a living snake becomes the object of
Next day Mrs. Cheng and her husband had a
adoration.
conjugal
smoking
till
his pipe, a true
for
arched
over,
bamboo
high,
example of marital equanimity, waiting
as busily
Half an hour later his wife
as ever.
Each night the boat
matting,
forty
feet
long, ten feet wide
space
at
the
bow.
Ahong,
My
friend
the
and four
and
being
cook and fourteen
curtained off for the captain and his spouse.
representatives of three generations of the
feet
occupied
boatmen were stretched out amid-ships, a small space

stern
is
waggon-fashion, with a telescopic arrangement of
which covers the entire deck.
small
little
Captain Cheng, he sat meekly
the storm should be over-past.
was working away
As
disagreement.
at the
The
Cheng family are
to
>
(J
Y'
OV THH
l^
UNIVERSITY
*Lt'>LlFORH\^
RAPIDS.
be found
does
on board the
living
smoke
cane with a knob at the end of
On
affection.
himself
while
the
as
head
his
his
to
For upwards of
smoke
the
twice
to
small
the
bamboo-
he cherishes with wonderful
it,
thickly-padded
destroy
his pipe, a
a relic of antiquity as venerable as
is
removes that garment from

order
and
framework of a greasy-looking
tattered
for
He
First the grandfather.
craft.
except
nothing
almost
165
his
jacket,
it
is
hat
felt
reported that he
person about once a week,
colonists
half a century he
in
that disturb his repose.
had been learning to swallow
of his pipe, but with only partial success.
Once or
fancied that he had fairly choked himself, and was about
expire
but
he
came
to himself again by-and-by, and
was
seen puffing more vigorously than before.
As soon as the roofs were drawn over for the

commenced the entire crew, Mrs. Cheng and all
in
business-like
fashion
On
could be endured.
smoking
and as there was no outlet
fumes, the atmosphere can be imagined

it
night,
setting to
work
for the
much more easily than

we passed a newly-
the following day
wrecked boat, which had struck a sunken rock and then gone
We
down.
encountered a second boat dashing down the
also
same rapid with a fatal way on her. She was bearing straight
the helmsman
for the breakers, away from the main channel
;
not
could
alter
her
course,
and so she too struck and settled
down, but not before the crew had had time to scramble out on
the rocks and
village
make
were washing clothes

with
the wreck fast with a cable.
At one
where we went ashore, a number of small-footed
startling
in
celerity,
the stream.
scaling
the
At our approach they

rocks
little
women
fled
and finding foothold
where only cloven-hoofed goats might have been supposed to
make
their way.
On Sunday we
reached Yen-ping,
in
time for service at the
66
Methodist Mission Chapel
that place,
in
and faces the main stream

nearly
and
equal
tributaries,
other from
the
at
The
tea.
within
foot
of the
which rose
in paper,
thirty
is
thousand
was encircled by a high
hill
fed
hill
by two
Hills
The
souls,
and
lackered ware, baskets and

wall,
from
an inclined plane of roofs, broken here and
there by groves of trees and temples, but
one
it
further to the south-east.
town contains a population of about

does a considerable trade
which stands on a
where
one flowing from the Bohea
the
source
a point
solid slope of tiled steps, over
still
almost appearing
which an Alpine tourist might
scramble to the outermost wall above, whose top could be seen

in a faint line sweeping round the heights that closed in
the
from behind.
city
been made
tains rose
up
Beyond
for the
in a
town
this
hill,
that covers
deep purple
which looked as
it,
if
a high range of
belt, like a great
it
had
moun-
protecting barrier.
The Mission House in the main thoroughfare was a miserable

place enough, and we learnt that no one would let a decent
house to Christians. The native missionary when we entered
chapel was conducting the morning service in the midst of
the
an attentive congregation.
He
looked happy and contented
was a poor one,
built
plaster, so thin that
the walls
ted
resided here with his family, and
although, as
and partitioned
have
off with
said, his
abode
bamboo-laths and
one could have pushed one's fingers through
while the roof was festooned with cobwebs and admit-
more daylight and
The
interior beneath,
The back
air
than was either necessary or agreeable.
however, wore a clean and even cheerful
many others, was perched

and there was a path running beneath the
fortifications, along which I picked my way with caution,
and
yet narrowly escaped being tripped up by a herd of pigs, as
look.
upon the
city
of this dwelling, like
wall;
they rushed to banquet upon some fihhy refuse dropping
down
YEN-PING CITY.
Yen-ping was a Chinese
from a house above.
could breathe pure mountain air on
some very pretty

from a steep
my way
some grass
The blades of this
time
it
and a
final
Near
this
and while making
river,
my
slipped
footing and caught
grass are furnished with an array of sharp
my
me
saved
and yet one
and encounter
that stood twelve or fifteen feet high there.
ripped
that
city,
wall,
67
one occasion, when taking a view
to a level space,
hold of
teeth,
On
sights.
upper
its
on the other side of the
hill
up
hands up
like a
saw
but at the same
a rapid descent of about two hundred feet,
plunge of a clear hundred more into the river below.

place,
we found
a small village,
in
the two
widows
and family of a deceased mandarin, sending a complete retinue
to the spirit of their departed lord.
pile of
huge paper models
of houses and furniture, boats and sedans, ladies-in-waiting and
were brought down to the banks of the
gentlemen-pages
and there burned before the wailing widows.

supposed to be transformed by
the
things
which
covered with
looking
they
tin-foil,
river
effigies are
into the spiritual reality of
fire
Many
represent.
and when the
bought
trader
These
of the articles were
sacrifice
was over a seedy-
the ashes, that he might
sift
them and
secure the tin that had refused to put on an ethereal shape.
Many
of
men
the
carried
concealed
bodies
warm.
portable
when
hot
furnaces
to
wells
deformed,
but the
prove
the
dress,
common
themselves
test the
near
and
used to keep their
are no fire-places in the houses, these
very convenient substitutes.
saw so many humps about,
gathered
empire
beneath
As there
disease must be
had
appeared
hereabouts
was due to the small charcoal furnaces which they
deformity
in
At
first,
supposed that some special
the place, or else that the sufferers
together
efficacy of
some
Foochow, where
from different parts of the

curative spring, like those
have seen crowds of feeble
68
and
folk bathing in the healing vapours.
infirm
copper furnaces encased
basket-work supplied a
in
But the
less
little
melancholy
explanation of the mystery.
When
watched the coolness, pluck and daring with which
poor
these
Min,
there
their
lives
in
shoot the rapids of the river
will
every voyage
in a
country where
no insurances, except such as the guilds may chance
are
and where no higher reward
afford,
to
navigators
river
risking
is
to be gained than a
hand-to-mouth subsistence on the most wretched fare
manly and hardy
to get a truer insight into the
misgoverned
this
in
Chinese
began
some of these watery
In
race.
and writhes from right to
winds
channel
the
steeps
qualities latent
left,
and
among the rocks at every two or three

boats lengths.
Once, when we descended, our frail craft tearing
down these bends at a fearful speed, I thought for a moment
forms
acute
angles
'
our
that
was
fate
sealed,
for
helmsman could ever bring the

huge rock which rose up
bridge,
seemed impossible
that the
There he stood on the
right ahead.
calm and erect, with an iron grasp on the long rudder,
impassive until
as
it
vessel round in time to clear a
we were
on to the rock and then,
just plunging
prepared to leap for
life,
he threw his whole weight on to
the oar, and brought the boat round with a sweep that cleared
the
by the breadth of a
danger
down
down
down
caprice
of
we saw
a great
the
like
irresistible
hair.
Thus we shot onwards,
a feather tossed to and fro by the
waves.
number of men
As we passed down stream
fishing with cormorants.
These
fishermen poled themselves about on bamboo-rafts, and on each

raft
was a basket and two or three cormorants, trained
and bring up
pictures
pressed
fish for their
owners.
As
on the way down to Foochow,

for time,
determined to find
his
to dive
intended to take some
my
friend,
way home
who was
in a native
FISHING WITH CORMORANTS.
KNIFE GRINDER.
TOTTVCB.e^-TT
A NATIVE PASSENGER BOAT.

passenger-boat
dinner
effort,
as
was
he
complete
may be
come
up
to
him on
but
voyage
the
had come.
and
was about
that
accompanied
health,
very
suitable
for
European
our
to
can
carrying
kneel
scarcely
we found about
natives,
notions
was
packing-box
this
it
strongly
we
trip,
does not quite
Thus the
comfort.
long low cabin, in which
and within
tainted
narrow space
this
Many were
along with them for sale
wares
their
upright
but
of
persons stowed away.
fifty
vain
persuade him to
to
the yacht or house-boat in which
in
69
after
last
Chinese passenger-boat makes a pretty swift
steerage accommodation consists of a
one
So
Shui-kow.
board, not without a
feeble
in
leave
with
pedlars,
and the
garlic,
air
of
tobacco,
sam-shu, opium and a variety of other Chinese perfumes, which
from
issued
about
they
in
were
the
mass
humanity that writhed and tumbled
of
fruitless efforts to
settled,
little
discover places for repose.
we had
literally to
When
grope our way
over a reeking platform of half-naked limbs and bodies, and

amid a torrent of cursing and abuse, in order to reach the state
cabin, where my stout friend, after sundry efforts, succeeded in
depositing himself at
by
three.
This cabin measured about four feet
last.
The door was
shut,
and there he was
locker with one or two openings to admit the
stench
and din of the unwashed, noisy crowd
So we parted
Foochow.
to
meet
again
air,
in a sort of
or rather the
in the steerage.
and recount our adventures
in
CHAPTER
IX.
SHANGHAI. NINGPO. HANKOW. THE YANGTSZE.

China Sea In the Wake of a Typhoon ShanghaiHistory Japanese Raids Shanghai Foreign SettleShanghai City Ningpo Native
mentPaul Sii, or Su-kwang-ki
Soldiers Snowy Valley The Mountains Azaleas The Monastery of
Snowy Crevice The Thousand-Fathom Precipice Buddhist
the
Steam
Traffic in the
Notes of
early
its
'
Yangtsze Kiang Hankow The Upper Yangtszejchang

The Gorges The Great Tsing-tan Rapid Mystic Mountain Lights
A Dangerous Disaster Kwei-fu Our Return Kiukiang Nanking its
Arsenal The Death of Tsing-kwo-fan Chinese Superstition.
Monks The
The opening
in
China
the
of
Suez Canal wrought as great a change
the
as
trade
Archipelago; and nowhere

the carrying
traffic
commerce of
the
in
this
is
the
Malayan
change more marked than
in
from port to port along the coasts of China.
Old lumbering junks, lorchas and even square-rigged sailing ships

given place to the splendidly equipped steamers of the
have
local
from
companies that ply regularly between the different stations

Hongkong to Newchang and then innumerable vessels,
;
owned,
not
native and
few
of
them,
by private
European companies, frequently
ment when the tea and

in running between the
silk
firms, as well as
find lucrative
by
employ-
seasons have not yet begun, either
treaty ports, or in
making short voyages
to the rice-markets of Indo-China.

It
was
my
good fortune
to
make
a coasting trip to Shanghai
I/I
SHANGHAI.
a
in
steamer belonging to a private
fine
making
time
should
either
that
just
upon
out
turned
The
that
in the
in the
else that
we were
was a true one.
latter conclusion
we had followed
tea-market
the glass indicated
was approaching, or
typhoon
engaged
Hankow
the
till
As we neared Shanghai
verge.
its
northward
cruise
open.
be
line,
portion of the year, but at that
greater
the
during
trade
tea
wake
It
of a hurricane,
and thus our experience afforded a good example of the limited area to which the circles of these typhoons are frequently
We had encountered nothing save calms and light
confined.
winds throughout our passage and yet when we entered Shanghai
river we found many ships disabled, some of them swept clear
;
deck masts,
to the
Here we had
side.
on
board;
spars and rigging having

to wait twelve hours
and when
did
individual
that
gone over the
all
a licensed pilot
till
at
last
came
make
his
appearance, he gravely remarked that he was only a fifteen-foot
man, but that he could make

depth to take
superior
us
it
right with another pilot of
all
What he meant
up.
to
convey to
us was that his license only allowed him to pilot vessels drawing
feet.
fifteen
unfortunate
that
superstitious
belief
if
they
starting
at
vessel as she sails across their track
we
wharf
the
have
fail
perceived
sails
and
but
in
a native trading-boat
sculls to pass
vain.
On
occurred
accident
to
voyage,
Chinese
their
An
up the Wong-poo
steaming
as
bad luck
to cross the
and
so, as
making
we were
The
at Shanghai.
will
attend
bows of
we steamed
on,
frantic efforts with
The whistle was plied,

own certain destruction.
under our bows.
they pulled to their
The engines could not be backed amid such
a crowd of shipping,
was gazing helplessly over our bulwarks when we came

and
There was a
crashing through the timbers of the fated craft.
I
yell
of
despair,
and
the
wreck
was next seen
drifting
down
172
the stream.
number of
some distance
shock
the
others
water;
clung
their
to
was submerged; but fortunately none of them

a number of boats had seen the incident and had
property until
perished,
the crew had been projected by the
into
as
it
put off to their assistance at once.
Shanghai has always been able to hold

Chinese emporium of foreign trade.
of profound interest that
did
foreign
Wong-poo,
settlement
at a spot
It
stands
on the banks of the
there
which about sixty years ago was a mere
able semi-aquatic sort of Chinese population.
as
the place for the
visited
the
of a
centre
first
time
In 1831 Dr. Gutzlaff,
tells
a thousand small vessels
north several times annually, exporting
describes
in a junk,
great native trade, and
"more than
port,
this
feelings
dotted with a few fisher huts, and inhabited by a miser-
swamp
who
as the great
beheld the splen-
for the first time
that
own
its
was therefore with
silk
it
us that from
go up to the
and other Kiangnan
manufactures," and besides, that an extensive
traffic
was carried
on by Fukien men with the Indian Archipelago. But we may

venture much further back in the history of the town. Several
centuries ago, even before the
Wong-poo
river
became
a navigable
all,
there was a great mart established in this locality
on the banks
of the present Soo-chow Creek, twenty-five miles
stream at
distant
from the harbour
in
which we have
topographical history of the district
is full
The
just anchored. *
of records telling of the
physical changes to which the vast alluvial plain where Shanghai
stands
been
yet,
has
silted
up,
Streams have
new channels have spontaneously opened
amid constant
ever-important
time to time been subjected.
from
difficulties
trade
of the
See the Shanghai Hein Chi.
and never-ceasing
and
alterations, the
place has been maintained within
ART DEALERS.
CHINESE COSTER.
V^
OK THK
'
UNIVERSITY
SHANGHAI.
173
same
narrow
area,
where the annual floods of the Yang-
tsze-kiang
deposit
their
alluvium
the
and
The
of
up new land out of
raise
political
region
this
no
commercial and physical history
was
settlement
century,
thirteenth
and
during
the
founded on the present
of Shanghai, to which trade was rapidly transferred by the
site
of the old waterway: finally, in A. D.
closing
ment was converted

repeated
the
come
to
1361,
were
throne,
walled
city,
These Japanese
Japanese.
when
confined to
not
warlike
foes
long
run, to prevent the daring invaders
manent foothold upon

by
failed.
force,
their
coveted
warfare
being
illustrate these
will relate
spoiled
but
and
These
Chinese
the slow-moving ponderosities
only
resorted
to
when
else
all
had
two methods of repelling an invading
the following story.

laid
from obtaining a per-
shores.
secured by intrigue and diplomacy,
promises and bribes
fair
To
sometimes
were
Chinese
just
but the latter always managed, in the
less
of
this quarter,
time after time, proved more than a match for
Japanese,
or
raids,
Ming dynasty had
the
their
successes
1544, the settle-
as a defence against
over the maritime provinces in the north.
generally
distributed
The
of the
attacks
the
into
date from A. D.
which
had
In process of time
less full of interest.
Wu-sung-kiang became unnavigable
old
the
as well as the
is
on the margin of the ocean

bed.
its
waste
no
In
small
543
when
the Japanese
of the country
extent
around Shanghai, the Chinese seeing that they were too feeble to
fight against their
Accordingly,
the
Japanese
Wang-chen
ing
the
to
enemies with success, had recourse to intrigue.
Governor-General
leaders,
Thsu-hai,
come over
of
the
leaders
invited
Ma-yeh,
to the side of the Chinese
them the rewards of high rank and untold
valiant
province
Cheng-tung,
treasure,
and
promisif
such
would but join the Imperial standard. Tempted
174
by the
they presented themselves to arrange conditions,
offer,
and were forthwith

an
to
despatched to Peking and there put
seized,
ignominious
On
death.
another occasion
came down upon
that the Japanese
enemy
their
reported
is
it
with a
fleet
of
300 vessels; and
after carrying
to
content, they departed laden with their spoil
their
hearts'
before them, and plundering
all
the
Chinese troops pursuing them valiantly out of the country
and
making an imposing
they unfurled the
As
not
the
to
any busy
of
ships
finds
making
of
their
steamers;
dart
will
itself,
nations
way
while
to
my
those of
and,
moorings,
their
steam-launches,
dockyards
foundries,
substantial
buildings
on
mid-channel, or
in
long
line
of ocean
bearing mails and despatches,
around. Advancing further up the river,

houses,
who have
There one
seaport.
anchored
and out among the crowd of native
in
readers
the river almost looks like
European
prosperous
all
on the shore as
interested in a brief description of
feel
The approach by
appearance.
its
hostile demonstration
of their ships.
settlement
China
visited
that
sails
and
craft that are seen
we
pass rows of store-
Next
sheds.
to
these
the
the American concession; and then a
full
view opens before us of the public garden and the impos-
ing
array
European
of
offices
which front
What
English concession ground.
surprised
the
river
on the
me most about
this
settlement was the absence of anything temporary or unfinished

in the style
of
its
place was, after
on
hostile
in
spite
rulers
to
be
in
their
of
buildings, such as might
all,
remind one that the
nothing more than a trading depot, planted
and inhospitable shores, and sustained

of
the
the
envy which
land.
What
in its position
appearance excited among the

pangs of regret and remorse ought
its
awakened among these proud unenlightened men, when,

moments, if any, of honest reflection, they cast their eyes
SHANGHAI.
upon
this
175
"Model Settlement," and perceive
that a handful of
outer barbarians have, within the space of sixty years, done
with
the
than
they
anywhere
quagmire
little
was grudgingly
that
more
allotted to them,
themselves, with their highest efforts, have achieved

in
own wide Empire during all the untold cenAs I have said already, there is a finish about
their
turies of its fame.
whole settlement, a splendour and sumptuousness about
the
buildings,
wide
its
roads
and
breathing
spaces,
its
its
spacious
wharves and elegant warehouses, that stand as a solemn rebuke

the
to
and grinding despotism which within the
niggardliness
adjoining native city have penned thousands of struggling beings
most
the
in
for
strife
temporary abodes
exposed to the constant
alleys,
there to carry on a ceaseless
breathing the fetid air of narrow polluted
existence,
risk of fearful conflagration
and
the grim horrors of pestilence or famine.
Su-kwang-ki, or "Paul Su," celebrated as the pupil of Matthew

Ricci, the great Jesuit missionary of the sixteenth century, appears
to
man who mourned
have been a
He was
country.
and he not only aided Ricci

the books of Euclid, but
works
over the condition of his
a native of Shanghai, a scholar of great renown
left
in his translation of a
behind him
many
notably one on agriculture, which
is
valuable original
still
highly prized.
But although admitted by the Emperor Kia-tsing and

cessor
to
be
man
of
singular
ability
and
number of
foresight,
his suchis wise
counsels were disregarded, and he himself was repeatedly treated
with suspicion,
due
to the intrigues of jealous rivals.
Accord-
ingly his counsel was set aside, and his measures for the preser-
vation and defence of the last Chinese dynasty were systematically
neglected.
But to
this
day he occupies a shrine
in
one
of the temples of Shanghai, and there his fellow-townsmen pay
him reverent worship
as a sort of divinely-inspired sage.
176
Most
rather,
dagger
my
of
troubles
(not
China.
must be
It
by the short-sword or
city
Shanghai has continued to advance steadily, and
rebels)
European
is,
position as the greatest
its
same time borne
the
at
commercial success
the
upon the
believe, the attack
of a host of
spite
in
of which was the Taiping rebellion, or
least
always maintained
has
aware that
are
readers
the
in
some measure
that this
at least, attributable to
administration which was inaugurated
customs'
1843, and which
at this city in
emporium of
mind
in
now extends
its
ramifications to
the open ports of the Empire.
all
Some
of
my
readers
just
and
described,
own
greatest
ports.
dismal
this
houses
built
Europe and superior
whence the labour
will naturally inquire
came which transformed
swamp
there
to some of the
One might think
fit
into
for
edifices
what
any
have
capital of
that adorn our
that structures such as
these must have been reared by skilled
workmen from Europe
but a very short residence in Shanghai suffices to undeceive us.
Then we mark
the avidity with which native builders, carpenters
and mechanics of every sort compete with each other to win

the
remunerative employment which those buildings afford, and
the
facility
needful
impart
to
to
with which they pick up the extended knowledge

enable
their
them
work
carry
to
that
out their
elegance and
cultivated tastes of the foreign architect
to these buildings alone that
resources
of
Chinese
watch
and there
too
engineers,
carpenters,
toil.
the
we must look
Visit
demand.
But
it
is
not
to discover the hidden
the dockyards and foundries,
Chinese craftsmen
painters
and to
contracts
perfection which the
the
shipwrights,
and decorators, busily
at
work
under European foremen, who bear the highest testimony to the

capabilities of their
men.
Pass on next to the Kiang-nan arsenal,
outside the city walls, and there you will find perhaps the highest
SHANGHAI.
177
development of Chinese technical industry,

of
and
rifles
It
computed
is
port
this
field-guns
that
and
1898
in
there
be
will
cotton mills, equipped with the best and most
1895
There are native
capital
foreign
to
beginning
in
companies for the erection of four spinning

It
be gathered from
will
own markets
supply their
to
goods,
and that
this,
and the cheap
The
native cotton
with a certain class of
long a large export trade will be
ere
commerce
created in cotton fabrics suitable for

Asia.
and
labour available for the industry, that the Chinese are
efficient
cotton
mills.
modern appliances
mills already in operation,
extent of 38,000 taels was subscribed by
the
joint-stock
and weaving
established at
or twenty Chinese, Japanese and European
eighteen
throughout.
manufacture
in the
the construction of ships of war.
all
over Eastern
of short staple, and the thread spun
is
only suitable for weaving the coarser fabrics of native wear.
The
native walled city of Shanghai stands to the south of the
foreign
settlement,
concession
ground,
and
is
and
by a canal which here sweeps round
from
separated
and forms with Soo-chow Creek and the

for the entire
English ground.
The
it
by the French
river a water
latter,
on
its
supports a Chinese population of over 50,000 souls

the
a
walls
mile
densely
of the Chinese city, in an area measuring
long
by three-fourths of a mile
in
boundary
western side,
but inside
little
over
breadth, and in a
crowded suburb on the water's edge
close by, about
130,000 inhabitants reside.
Like
upon
an
all
other Chinese towns, Shanghai has
whom
honorary
title.
This
the
shrine
northern
have
tutelary deity,
guardian of the fortunes of Shanghai
stands in the " Cheng-hwang-Miau " or "

in
its
the Emperor, as brother of the Sun, has conferred
quarter
of the town
Temple of the City God,

;
and though he and
"
his
from time to time been rudely overthrown, both,

12
178
each disaster, have been reverently restored
after
may be
or
and now he
seen looking out upon wide pleasure-grounds

dilapidated
less
state,
true
is
it
but
in a
now and
still
more
again
regaled with theatrical performances, and leading, for an idol, a
not altogether unenjoyable
more
especially
approach of a
a
spread
to
Then
foe.
same spot are two drum-
In the
life.
towers, superintended by a
number of
alarm of
the
there
inferior deities,
is
and used
or to notify the
fire,
the Confucian temple
besides
host of other Buddhist and Taoist sacred edifices, occupying
spaces
best
the
ground within a
of
where the miserable
city
population have too often scarcely breathing space.
Our route now

province
the
away among the
lies
of Che-kiang.
azalea-clad mountains in
But before re-embarking
w'e
must
have a parting glance at the streets of the "Model Settlement.
There are no cabs
wheelbarrows
There
my
to their use.
from
this.
stand,
I
the wheel-
thus, with
neither skittish nor
is
is
on the
established
my two
Ningpo steamer.
a steady-going vehicle
shying, and the pace he puts on
to
beginning
never dangerous.
river
Yang
at the
of the sixteenth century, and were finally massacred
by the natives
in
revenge for their barbarous conduct, according
to the Chinese account.
These Portuguese were said about that
to have joined with the Japanese in several of their raids
on the maritime provinces of China

ed
and
set out for the
much risk of accidents in

The coolie who propels it
The Portuguese were
time
is
undignified sort of convey-
when one has once

Ahong procured me two of these
nearest
the
baggage and "Spot,"

not
is
such as
given
very
but nevertheless comfortable enough
grown accustomed
boys,
of them, possess
substitute for the cab here
barrow and Japanese jinricksha

ances,
many
but the residents,
The
private carriages.
that,
some
fifty-six
and
it
years ago, there was
will
be remember-
another massacre
NINGPO.
men
of Portuguese and Manilla
were
then
in
occurrence
was
China Sea
in the
Ningpo
befel
disaster
Taipings
months, when
it
cities,
regain what
it
the
was retaken
vessels,
when
it
their
in
of daily
piracies
and the general
at that time,
i86i,
in
They
very same town.

in
was not altogether undeserved.
remaining
and French war

Chinese
at this
some way implicated
that the retribution
of the
1/9
fell
feeling
Another
into the the
hands
possession for about six
by the English
for the Imperialists
and since that time,
like
many
other
has been labouring on peacefully in an effort to

at the
lost
hands of the rebels and the Imperial
troops.
It
was daylight when we steamed up the Yang
harsh outlines
mellowed
were
by,
the
in
morning
and there were Fukien timber-junks,

Uke
floating wood-yards,
feature
light.
bound seaward contributed
fishing-boats
river
and the
of the islands and of Chin-hai promontory close
too, laden
and labouring
great
fleet
of
to enliven the scene
their
till
way up
they looked
One
stream.
of novelty was the endless array of ice-houses lining
full
the banks of the river for miles and presenting the appearance
of an
encampment of
troops.
These ice-houses, or
thatched over with straw, and the ice

fish
of
a small foreign
is
different
native
city
nationalities,
is
including
a walled enclosure,
Shanghai, and with nearly double

foreign
in
trade
spite
province,
it,
of
of
the
which
the
place,
it
ice-pits,
the banks of the
the missionary body.
somewhat
its
are
used to preserve fresh
summer months.
community on
during the
There
is
Yang
The
larger than that at
population
but as for the
has never been very important,
proximity of Hang-chow-fu, the capital of the

the
great
Venetian,
when he passed through
described as an Eastern Paradise.
Among
the chief attractions of Ningpo are the Fukien guild-
l8o
the " Tien-how-kung, " as
hall,
Heaven"; one of the
of
only
Indeed
it
the
the
rich
is
called, or
temples, the
the
latter,
it is
"Temple
outside the
Queen
of the
kind
finest buildings of the
China.
in
yamens and the houses of

ranks, few
official
and
far be-
tween when one considers the vastness of the population

any
possess
noteworthy architectural
which adorn the suburbs round our
by
uous
their
absence
met the remnant of
so
many
rest
that
country.
comfortable, elegant and tasteful abodes of the middle classes,
The
in the
features
that " ever-victorious
army
In this
"
and form the Ningpo
their labours,
city guard, a small
compact body of native troops under two English

drilled,
town
which achieved
Now, "after much turmoil," these warriors
triumphs.
from
home, are conspic-
cities at
"Flowery Land."
in the
well cared for
and well paid.
This,
officers, well
fear, is
more than
can be said of a large portion of the Chinese forces under arms.
At
any rate they are not
arly
soldiers
is
well,
they
and but few of them regul-
the
this
perhaps better than
believe that,
effort,
all
Notwithstanding
paid.
might
turn
out
and science, required
masses that
are
placed
of bodies of
in
is
in
the discipline,
coping with the machine-
upon the modern
Europe. These are the impressions

vation
same time any force the Chinese
might thus muster would be wofuUy deficient
and
an army better equipped than
like
were the Imperial Government obliged to make an
generally supposed although at the
organisation
of the Chinese
condition
has been in former years
it
battle-fields of
gathered from actual obser-
men encamped and under

who has received an
think that a Chinaman
review in China.
English education
of a not very high-class sort, might try to put a letter together

in
pure English with just about as
ment, with the knowledge they

of
modern
at
much
success as his govern-
present possess of the science
warfare, to send a thoroughly efficient
army
to face
CHINESE ENGLISH.
foreign
troops.
before
my
ropean
Uterary
l8l
cannot indeed march a regiment of Chinese
reader for review, but of their shortcomings in Eu-
composition
and here,
assistant,
in facsimile,
is
An
give an actual sample.
will
Englishman had occasion to send a note to
doctor
his
the reply
native
's
no came Thursday.
"Dear Sir, I not know this things. Dr.
More better you ask he supose you what Fashtion thing can
tell me know I can send to you.
"Yours truly,
"HANG
Now
of
sort
the
in
results
foregoing
we have
achieved
by Chinamen who
There are a
that they can write English.
learnt the letters,
and something of the
grammar, but not enough to be of value to them
He
with the Chinese soldier of to-day.
is
the
weapons, but
he
My
perfect discipline which
4th
April
to
left
Ningpo
for
me up
hired to take
when we
Snowy
Valley, in a native
stream to Kong-kai.
started from
It
was
Ningpo wharf, and we

a.
m.
next
end we reached Kong-kai within the allotted time.
consisted
of
lay across fields of bean
to
as an important
field,
reach Kong-kai village by about 9 or 10
In the
party
essential
compact and well-organised mass.
my
coolies engaged to transport
ing
it
knowledge
close on midnight
hoped
so
the
which
day.
and
possesses occasionally
the
unit in a
On
syntax and
;
lacks
alone can unite him to his fellows on the
boat
num-
use of them effectively, and
right
make
themselves
flatter
tardily increasing
whom this remark does not apply.
ber of well-educated natives to
They have
SIN."
a very fine specimen of the
from
baggage to the
and rape, now
delightful fragrance,
morning whiffs
two China boys, and four Ningpo
my
in full
hills.
Our path
bloom and exhal-
which contrasted strikingly with the
the manure-bestrewed
fields,
which com-
82
monly
the
salute
shone
with
must have landed

There
trees
Everything hereabouts
China.
in
beauty, and
was evident that we
it
in a real paradise of cultivation.
amid the
we marched along I pictured to myself a quiet,

such as we encounter in our English counties.
as
hamlet,
rustic
and
lay the village in front of us, nestling cosily
And
wanderer
freshness
But notwithstanding the natural beauty of the situation, Kong-kai
No perfume
was disappointing.
us
we approached, no
as
of rose or honeysuckle greeted
rustic
cots,
no healthy,
children, not even the fondly-expected sturdy villager
what was
At
this
to
blooming
were among
be seen here.
we procured mountain-chairs
place
miles' journey to the
looked worn and feeble, but as
an eighteen
for
The
monastery of Tien-tang.
chair-bearers
walked a good deal they were
One or two of the hamlets which we passed

on the road were much more attractive than Kong-kai and indeed
the people seemed to improve in condition the further we
advanced inland. Near the hills the women and children adorn
not
over-fatigued.
their raven tresses with the bright flower of the
found
in
great
were
halting-places
I
profusion
wayside temples, and
little
met two old women, the
allowed them to prepare
The bearers rested as

money and their
their
from any which
it
fore-
repast.
Some
I
in
gambling among themselves
of the small temples hereabouts
had seen
in China,
having their outer
porches adorned with two or three well-modelled

in
Most hag-
was with grave
my
The
one of these
often as they possibly could, and spent

leisure
or with wayside hawkers.

differed
in
priestesses of the shrine.
gard, ill-favoured crones were they, and
bodings that
azalea a plant
in the highlands of the locality.
life-size figures
the costume which appeared to be that of the ancient lictors
of the Ming dynasty.
But the
idols within
were invariably the
WAVSIDE GAMBLING.
V^
OF THK
'
UNIVERSITY
^Califo8H)^
THE MONASTERY OF THE SNOWY CREVICE.

same,
Triad
ordinary
the
mythology. Each
Buddhist
the
of
shady nook about these shrines was the resort and

of wayfarers
sleeping-place
other provisions had set up their

traveller
or
food,
daily
his
gamble with him
to
times the
for
and
fruit
ready either to
stalls,
The wandering
preferred that plan.
at
and there too vendors of
183
sell
it,
if
the
he
minstrel and the story-teller
were not absent from the scene, beguiling the mid-day repast
with
the
quaint
or
of
country
the
some
with
ballads
folklore
has
tale
from the stores which
At one of these
supply.
to
halting-places, while the coolies
were tossing dice with an aged
hawker,
down
Chinese pedlar laid
his
burden
for a rest.
He
had been carrying two baskets slung on a pole, and from these
there issued such an incessant pattering and ceaseless chirping,
my
that
of an
all
their
There
own
poultry by
The
farm-house
were
crowned with
be
haystack
clinging
above the ground.
round
the
rosy
hues,
in
The
full
and
of our
Hatching
And
azaleas, for
bloom,
throwing
and
here
"Snowy
which
mantling
out
their
Crevice " afforded
met with
the
hills
blossoms
the province
in
this place
is
celebrated,
and valleys with

in
clusters
surprising brilliancy against the deep green foliage which
the edges of the path.
little
there
trunk of a tree and propped six
ascent to the monastery of the
were now
old.
was dotted with
crossing
shrubs.
a succession of the finest views to be
of Cheh-kiang.
They were
peeping out amid the groves, or a
seen
feet clear
The
for food.
and but one or two days
which we
could
fluffy little ducklings,
rudimentary wings and opening
their
heat has reached great perfection in China.
artificial
grave-mounds
open one of them and have a
mouths, clamorous
hatching
plain
to
found about a hundred
flapping
age,
capacious
friend's
me
curiosity induced
look inside.
The mountains themselves were
of
bound
tossed
84
in
wild
in
cliffs
disorder,
and
seemed
shot
richly-wooded knolls, or rising
into
As
crags.
the
we
in before
set
had
who,
bonze,
reckoning
evening
quarters
and
on,
Darkness had already
my
"Spot",
dog,
had brought out
appearance
almost without question, suspended the
of his
sins
on
and
his rosary,
lit
us to our
The apartment
block of buildings behind.
a large
in
his
hills
deep shadows
woody chasms and
the
at hand.
arrived at our destination.
proceeded
venerable
fiery clouds
up
swallowing
path,
warning us that night was near
day declined the
the
and merge into the
to melt
across
swelling
beetling
assigned to us was a plastered, white-washed chamber built out

of pine wood, and containing a magnificent
intimating
that
hardwood bed.
We were not long,
country's liquors, our old guide took his leave.
however,
way
our
finding
in
there the boys kindled a
The monastery of
of men and
while
the
tumult
of
subsist.
similar
It
has
One
reposes far from the

in
a broad, fertile
upon which
its
members
many
of course a miraculous history, and, like
establishments,
ancient.
and
smoked with the monks.

cities,
part of the imperial patrimony
valley,
in
fire,
to the kitchen for ourselves,
"Snowy Crevice"
the
haunts
After
wine was much better than any of his
foreign
of
is
the
supposed to be extremely
popularly
stories
connected with the place
is
that,
1264 A.D., the Emperor Li-tang dreamed a dream about the
temple, and
it
accordingly
"The famous
Hall of Dreams.
formed one of the most important events
This
for
named
the
dream was followed by
another legend which
who
essayed
monarch
fell
in
tells
vain
to
substantial
in its annals,
gifts.
us of an anchorite, and of an
slay
the
down and worshipped
Holy Man.
"
At
There
is
Emperor
last
the
the priest, for he had never
come across a being whom he could not slay. This

Emperor was distinguished for his wise rule, and had just put
before
THE THOUSAND-FATHOM
common
million of the
any
than
some victim of
He
their end.
died at
last
There are monks,
who have passed
their lives in crime,
am
temples
of
ancient
the
eminence and
left some suitable

unknown even at
in those places,
told,
and who
find
it
expedient
them places of refuge,
to retire to these choice retreats (making
the
rarer
like this is not
the present time.
like
85
he had already brought to
a pious priest, and
Something
behind him.
gifts
whom
those
of
sort of his subjects to death; but he
was, at that time, athirst for

sanctity
PRECIPICE.
and
Jews
Greeks)
to
die
"Omita-Foh!"
pleasantly chanting
Such holy ones, rescued from the grasp of justice and the jaws of
the
pit,
Some
take good care, nevertheless, to live as long as they can.
Buddhists are doubtless sincere,
own
their
faith
They seldom
hospitable and kind to strangers.
me know
to let
the presents
if
judged by the laws of
if
whom I came
and many of them,
across,
failed,
found
however,
chanced to give them were not
quite equal to those which other visitors had bestowed.
monk conducted me
Early next morning a mute and aged
view
the
hanging
"Thousand-fathom
over the scene as
like a pall
out
bold
and
clear,
though
down
could
right
out
of
lean
down
save
the
in their
sun
to listen to the roar of the
The monk next
beneath.
over
the
sea
of
led
edge
into the abyss
followed the guide along
mist,
that stood
wet with vapoury rain
still
to
heavy cloud was
and
perched upon one of the rocks, we
there, in a small rest-house,

sat
At length we reached a summit
mountain path.
Precipice."
me
of
fall
and the foaming torrent
to where, clinging to a tree,
the precipice and get a look
made
but there was nothing to be
through
which
the deafening
roar
waters could be heard as they leapt from rock to rock

descent to the valley more than 1,000 feet below.
gradually
shone
out,
and by
its
aid
we descended
The
to the
86
foot
of the
through a steep shady path, and secured some
fall
The
pictures of the scenery.

feet
cataract takes a leap of about 500
and then gushes downwards over the
the graceful folds
of a bridal veil
cliffs
and edges
like
while the variously coloured
rocks are covered with ferns and flowering shrubs.
was
interesting to watch the monks at their refections

we contrived to do without being noticed ourselves. We
found them as a rule particular in observing those rules of Buddhism,
It
and
this
by
which the
external semblance of cleanliness
is
enforced. *
The following are some of the laws which regulate diet

"The dinner of a priest consists of seven measures
mixed with
not permitted.
is
steal
five
more
is
cupidity, to eat less
is
by no means commonly followed in China:
shall offer to the
He must
prayers.
good and bad
spirits,
food like a dog, nor scratch his head, nor breathe
nor smack
in eating;
insect in his food he

in the
and
if
must conceal
minds of others.
and
not speak about his dinner, nor
neighbour's face, nor speak with his mouth

joke,
is
any kind besides these dishes
'
The last injunction

" Then the priest
repeat
eat
eat vegetables of
to
of rice
the tenth of a cubit of pastry, and nearly the
flour,
same weight of bread. To

parsimony;
full,
in
his
nor laugh, nor
he should happen to find an

it
so as not to create doubt
"
There are a host of other very good

guidance
but their general tendency
a monk 's dinner

we look through
so
by
minute
and
most solemn and most unsocial event.
the Buddhist laws and precepts,

so
wide-reaching,
Laws and Regulations of

Newmann.
C. F.
rules laid down for his

when observed is to make
the
that
we
find
When
them
they hedge the priest
Priesthood of Buddha, in Chijia. Trans,
HANKOW.
completely
shutting
around,
most
his
him out from the
and rendering
desires
natural
187
whether any perfectly devout and
faithful
gratification of
indeed
it
uncertain
Buddhists can possibly
exist in China.
The
return
unrecorded,
voyage to Ningpo and Shanghai
that
up the Yangtsze
may
Having dined with a
in
literary friend in Shanghai,
Hankow.
It
was a
which was getting up steam
and the scene was as dark
the
cold.
The lamps blinked and shivThe bund was deserted only some
;
woman would now and

swallowed up
the jaws of night.
We
fine steamer,
the S. S. N. Go's
what
Reserving
again emerge from the darkness,
once more,
like a sinful victim in
soon passed on to the "Fusiyama," across

alongside of which she was moored.
landing-stage
floating
She was a
although by no means the finest
may have
about 600 miles higher up
to
Nanking and the
to say about
will
transport the reader at once
Hankow, the
furthest point
Yangtsze river to which steam navigation had
Hankow holds an important

Han and Yangtsze. The
of the rivers
river
was the Mien, and
joins
was only
river
its
on the
time been
at that
position at the confluence
ancient
name
of the
Han
course, as well as the point at which
Yangtsze, have been subjected to frequent change.
the
it
It
among
fleet.
ports on the lower Yangtsze,
carried.
returned to
"
ered as the blast swept by.
and then be
my boys with every-
bitter night,
and gloomy as the wind was
stray
journey
and a gang of coolies waiting to bear our
readiness,
baggage on board the "Fusiyama,

for
my
river to Sze-chuan.
the hotel towards midnight and there found

thing
must pass by
hurry forward to describe
in
created
advantageous
the last decade of the fifteenth century that the

its
site,
present
to
channel,
and
at
the
which Hankow owes no
same time the

little
portion of
88
The
her prosperity.
was confined
early trade of the district
Hanyang, a place described as a flourishing port

period treated of
is
now
suburbs are
Hankow
"History of the Three States.
in the
taken
chiefly
at the
up
with
residences,
official
"
to
remote
Hanyang
though
its
the resort of a considerable native trade.
still
flourished under the rule of the Mings, and does not
seem
to have suffered greatly during the disasters
their
fall.
was then known
It
which attended
as the great mart, in fact the
commercial centre of the Empire, and was the resort of traders
from
the
represented
their
by
there
of
Hankow
epoch
of
the
of
are
halls
were
indeed
still
famous
for
During Kien-loong's time the pros-
continued
to
advance
until
the disastrous
Taiping rebellion. Then the decay was as rapid
was complete; and
ruin
provinces
the
whose
guilds,
and decoration.
size
the
Most
Yunan.
perity
as
and from the southernmost provinces
furthest north,
and
Kiang-su
in
finally,
1855, the whole city
was burned to the ground.

After
ments
more out of
its
concession
for
Hankow
Taipings had been expelled from Hupeh,
the
rose once
The
carried into effect.
ashes,
of
land
and
to
in
186 1 the
the
British
final
arrange-
Crown were
hoisting of the English colours
was
follow-
ed at once by a splendid settlement, erected on a very unfortunate

taels
The
site.
discovered
exposed
Thus,
that
was
bought
up
in
small lots at 2,500
the
spot
it
was
chosen for a foreign settlement was
constant inundations of the most destructive kind.
to
in
land
and enormous sums were squandered before
each,
the
year
before
my
arrival,
the
flood,
which
is
always looked forward to as the event of the season, bestowed

its
fertilising
was no
swept
favours with no grudging hand
foretelling to
away
entire
and indeed there
what height the waters, which had already

suburbs from the cities higher up stream,
HANKOW.
189
might deluge the vicinity of Hankow.

slowly until
along
sions
it
had submerged
it
outlying streets
the
had breasted the

over
settlement
retreated
even
sort
garret
bedrooms on the upper

"Paterfamilias"
to
of
first
thence
all,
it
rose
made excur-
it
crept up like a silent foe
till
made the captured

of watery sack.
The inhabitants
;
and
finally
while
fastnesses,
were sheltered
cattle
fortifications
to
their
to
Well,
banks
its
floors.
poultry,
pigs,
found refuge
boats,
or
At any
rate
in
it
and
in the
was a convenience
to have his milk-cow next door to his nur-
and chanticleer perched upon a friendly bedpost to screech
sery,
But when the novelty of these domestic
the approach of day.
had worn
arrangements
off,
and when the richly-papered walls
began to weep through a lacework of fungus, and the limbs of

polished
the
furniture to
show symptoms of
grew mildewed and
silken hangings
and sunk with a
tottered
pale,
The
inhabitants.
and
halls
when
dull splash into the red stream, the
of the position pressed heavily
insecurity
dissolution;
and the boundary walls
staircases
upon the despondent
became docks and landing-
stages where visitors might disembark, and a dining or drawing-
room made
swim,
much
Bachelors,
imagined.
could
while
bank
at the
call
plunge-bath
better
too,
they
the
to
that
relief of all
but
for
Government
ised
raids
back wall (erected
at a cost of
the Yangtsze
the
originally
is
apprehended
by the Chinese
of
the
plain)
which acted as a
settlement might have been swept into
by the strong
business at
It
^80,000, as a protection against organ-
banditti
entire
morning
height; and then
its
began slowly to recede.
from the
breakwater,
The
doorway of some hospit-
At length the water reached
friend.
in
to enquire the rate of exchange,
or dive to their breakfast beneath the

able
than one could have
indulged
Hankow
reflux currents from the Han.
has never
come near
the anticipations
I90
who
of the Europeans
nevertheless,
but,
the
of
Congou
foreign
teas,
while in 1873
when the
place was opened
The
reported
to
of the trade in foreign
total value
about 14,000,000 taels
be
In
1895
The Taotai
a
passport
in
1871,
appears to have fallen off; but this was owing
it
to a sort of commercial stagnation which has been
China.
must always secure a very important share
it
commerce.
was
shipping
flocked thither
the centre of the districts which produce
as
stood at 44,507,502
it
of
felt
all
over
taels.
Hankow, Ti-ming-chih, who furnished me with
whom
upper Yangtsze, and
for the
had twice the
pleasure of meeting, had been born in the province ofKiangsu,
and commenced
appointment
to
his
advanced him step by
where
he
earned
career at the age of thirty,
official
modest
his
this
by an
abilities
step, until he attained his present position,
high
From
clerkship.
by
reputation
his just, mild
and
in-
telligent rule.
Woochang
on the opposite bank of the
city,
river presents
a picturesque appearance, due partly to the elevated ground on
which
it
stands and partly to
have been
its
celebrated tower, which tradition
up there 1,300 years ago.
This
"
tower was overthrown by the followers of the " Heavenly King
reports
to
during
the
Taiping
fifteen years rebuilt
first
rebellion,
and
and
Chinese pagoda,
set
and
finished. It
from
its
after
is
an interval of about
quite unlike the ordinary
no
peculiar design runs
risk of
ever being mistaken for any other monument.
During the journey to the upper Yangtsze, which

pose to describe,
panions.
Two
had two American gentlemen for
native boats were secured, and
to carry us to Ichang.
now
pro-
my com-
we engaged them
we stowed
Into the smaller of these craft
the cook and servants, reserving the larger one for our baggage
and ourselves.
Our boat was divided
into
three
compartments
YANGTSZE BOATMEN.
191
The fore-cabin was taken

and by our newly-appointed Chinese
secretary was a small compact man,
with well-carved bulkheads between.
up by a boy
secretary
Chang.
us,
This
of Chinese lore and self-satisfied complacency.
full
The
room was our own, while Captain Wang and
state"
found shelter
in
the after-cabin.
We
and
Hankow about
left
we had
for
the
town.
the
mid-day, but as there was no wind,
night
To make
smoked
stale
through
the
set
to
Ta-tuen-shan,
at
hard frost set
seemed quite impossible
quarters.
we
to
been
lent
were
in
of native boats,
only
ten
miles
during the evening, and
keep the intense cold out of our
matters worse, the skipper and his spouse
tobacco half through the night, and the fumes came
bulkhead
and
my
filled
by
us
source
of
friends
Next day
sleeping-bunk.
work with paper and paste
up every crevice and by
patching
fixing
to cure
evils
by
up a stove which had
for the voyage.
disquietude to Mrs.
both
These preparations
Wang, who turned out
be a tartar more desperate even than the lady of the Min.

The boatmen were a miserably poor lot. They neither changed
their
clothes
"Why
and
only
nor
washed
their
bodies during the entire trip
should they.?'" said Chang the secretary
change their garments with one another.
a single suit apiece, and that, too,
the winter months.
formed
their
Poor souls
they could
They have but
some of them only loan
for
Their clothes were padded with cotton and
habiliments
how they
by day and
their
bedding by night.
crept together, and huddled into the hold
and what an odour arose from
their retreat in the morning, for
smoked themselves to sleep with tobacco, or those

them who could afibrd it, with opium. It was always a
they
of
his wife
Besides this there was an ample
way through thousands
our
pole
to
anchor
above
it
" central
which contained our baggage, our provisions and our crew.
hold,
to
on
to wait
had
192
difficult
matter
cold.
confess
But
the
shook
voice
those
foulest
of Mrs.
in
them up and out on deck
never cared to be the
Wang was
from their
sluggards
stamped
she
get
to
first
to
to face the
lift
the hatch.
She
equal to the occasion.
rest with her strident tones
her cabin and "slung slang" at them like the
At
missiles.
about seven o'clock, they might be
last,
seen unwillingly turning to and hauling up the anchor, not more
slow-moving than themselves.
wind
to
be
took
made
and
a
although
divides
at
fair
seemed
any rate our coal would not burn.
It
to turn " Farmer's Bend,
day of hard work
one
might easily walk across the neck of land which
two extremities of the
canal cut across
We
navigation.
noticed
curve, in a quarter of an
would be a great saving
many
in
the river
timber rafts from the Tung-Ting
looking like floating villages, and indeed they are neither
lake,
more nor
than hamlets.
less
Each on
supported two rows of huts, and

of Chinamen
who had
in the trade.
When
off
happened, we had a
it
run, but the iron stove
half
the
hour.
or
failure,
us
As
good day's
its
substructure of timber
these dwelt the
little
colonies
invested their time, labour and small capital
the rafts reach
and placed on the
them
in
river's
Hankow, these huts
are lifted
bank; the owners residing inside
When
steamers
are seen thus far up the Yangtsze river (46 miles above
Hankow)
till
their
all
experienced
when
pilots
the water
is
wood
has been disposed
of.
would be required, especially

at its lowest,
and
it
sary even, to survey the stream annually, for

constantly to
Ichang,
at
shift.
the
At Paitsow,
Steam navigation
is
at this
season
might perhaps be neces-
now
its
channel tends
carried
beyond
to
entrance to the Gorges of the upper Yangoge.
where we anchored
for the night, we found men

They had no rope-walks, but
only high temporary-looking scaffoldings, with some men above
manufacturing
bamboo
cables.
OUR NATIVE HOUSE BOAT-UPPER YANGTSZE.
WANG.
MRS.
and
making
below,
others
and
193
the
twisting
strands.
thick
Next morning the skipper's wife and the crew got through a
good deal of bad language between them before we made a
start.
The conversation was a shrill-toned one, and alternated
between
Mrs.
Wang
in her cabin at
out
was
captain
their
until
at
one end of the boat
The
the crew in the hold at the other.

his
latter
This
post.
and
objected to turn
difficulty the
gentle wife settled ultimately by kicking her husband out of bed
on to the deck, hurling torrents of abuse

cooking
of
such a vessel as
red
like
Let
utensils.
have
and from half a mile
flows,
it
him conceive himself ascending the
let
low level monotonous clay walls

our craft and
of
picture
well as
we
and
banks
and
anchored
and dined,
he
our surroundings
days as we pursued our voyage up to the Gorges.

fasted
supply
have described, with such a crew, on a river
between
stream
plentiful
reader imagine himself afloat in
the soil through which
a league in breadth
to
the
unhappy head
at his
and supplementing those delicate attentions by a
slept,
then
will
many
for
We
break-
surveying the river as
could, and here and there marking out sundry sand-
other
barriers
commerce, formed since the one
to
and only chart of the river had been made.
We
had
is
at
its
our
chosen
opportunity
our
There
can
and the Yangtsze was now running
lowest,
its
banks,
careful
which
summer
in
our
soundings,
no
be
projecting need find
no record
but,
been quite
the
at
last
willing
ancient
to
classics,
as
sail
here.
for
on
of bearings
But
and our chart-
Their very sameness grew
our secretary, he would have
until
drinking
it
below
far
are completely submerged.
notes
wearisome
of
well.
time for examining the features of a river than when
better
he had digested the whole
our
wine and smoking our
cheroots as frequently as they were offered.
He had marvellous
13
194
raiment
Chang.
reaching
down
fortress,
around
he looked
of
robe
and a
When
his neck.
with sleeves
classic cut,
stood up like a
collar that
seated at study,
in a corner,
posture for hours, with
in this
and audibly rehearsing whole books of
eyes
his
classic lore
but he had
manner, and willing to make him-
was
extremely
polite in his
self
useful.
was a mistake having two boats
It
powers caused grievous delay
sailing
delays
and cook readily turned to account
in
their unequal
which the servants
explaining
shortcomings,
and which contributed greatly to the
enjoyment
the
of
we passed
23rd
is
who were
crews
point
the
where
leisure
and
On
the
paid by the day.

the
Ta-Kiang
or
by the stream from the Tung-Ting
joined
sorts of
all
the fleets of boats
lake.
At
we
continually passed.
The
river, in
navigation,
any rate during the months when the banks are
at
Hence
submerged.
landmarks would have to be erected,
suitable
as not a single tree, shrub, or knoll, can at such times
many
are
some
long reaches hereabouts, would be dangerous for steam
of the
for
great
place there were abundant evidences of considerable trade
this
in
closed,
good deal of accurate information about the country, and
also a
river
He
huge bolster surmounted by a tiny cap.
like a
would remain
padded
to his knees,
miles around.
well defined, and, with the exception of
which
stand
well
sand,
and
river
navigation
current
struck
just
would
two
reefs of rocks
of the water, consist of soft
clear
occur
be seen
All the shoals at this (the winter) season
at
mud and
bends, where anyone accustomed to
expect
upon the
clay,
to
a
find
them.
Wherever the
good channel
was
almost
invariably to be found.
On
the 24th
we ascended
a small rapid which ran about five
knots, and were detained by a snow-storm for about six hours.
The
little
hamlets
we
passed,
or
anchored
at,
day
after day,
THE UPPER YANGTSZE.

temporary, miserable-looking
were
195
conveying
settlements,
idea of a thinly peopled country; and the inhabitants
poverty-stricken look only too
We
many
half a
day without encountering a
for
At
single individual.
places the river had undermined the banks, and these were
blocks
great
in
falling
one
point
the
heart
of an
ten feet wide
and there was
front
in
settlement,
old
many
for there
were foundations of
from the bank.
coffins protruding
we reached Shang-chai-wan, and remarked
the 27th
the banks
or
eight
where we noticed that the stream was cutting out
houses exposed, and
On
other parts of China.
in
walked over the country, and along the banks,
have
nearly
common
the
wore the
of
faced up with stones.
that
an old pagoda there, had been carefully
Thus
a useful sort of landmark
was well
protected from the inroads of the stream, while the houses were
left
swept away as the bank
to be
This
village
indicated
some
fell
slight
in.
degree of prosperity and
There was no one
presented a pretty winter's scene.
a footprint stained the white mantle in which the
soil
astir,
not
was wrapt
only on one level patch the leaves of a winter crop shot up in

rows,
formed a pale green pattern on a snowy ground.
and
little
on was the town
further
of Shang-chai-wan,
where
our boys went ashore and spent half a day in a vain search for
coal.
Then
crew had to be hunted up
the
and one by one the men dropped
in,
all
over the place,
each with as
much sam-shu
as he could hold inside him, or else stupified with opium.
Wang we
found
in
shop, amid a group of natives
them had ever

all
Capt.
a filthy alley, enjoying the nectar of a grog-
set eyes
who were
civil
enough.
upon a genuine white man
Few
before,
of
and
made numerous good-natured enquiries about our relations

one old man even suggested that our faces
and our clothes
and hands had only acquired a pale colour through the use of
196
some wonderful cosmetic, and that our bodies were black. I

bared my arm to refute this calumny, and its white skin was
touched by many a rough finger, and awoke universal admiration.
Not knowing exactly what our barbarous views of decency
might be, we were kindly recommended by an unwashed, but
member
polished
by
osity
satisfied the
The
more
reader
community not
the
of
stripping
entirely,
intelligent
can
gather from
easily
to gratify vulgar curi-
we had already completely

members of the crowd.
as
such incidents as these
what depraved notions some of the Chinese must entertain about

ourselves and
disposed
person,
and
vice
Chinese
put
the merest coolie,
place
way
the
in
civilisation.
readily
will
us
have
works upon which
ble
They always seem
our customs.
have a great deal to learn
in
sion
of
facts
and
the
characterise
The author
nation.
ourselves,
live
the
to
lower
down
our ser-
at
up something
is
fed.
to the limited
craving
inordinate
among
classes
we
of
possession one of the valua-
popular belief
this
of ethnological treatise, written
to feel that
he be a kindly-
knowledge
his
picking
of
my
if
this
for
It
a sort
is
comprehenwhich
fable
highly superstitious
describes races of men, who, like
gravely
on the outer edges of the world, that
the benign influence of Chinese rule.
Some
is
outside
are very hairy
men
clothed with leaves; others hop about on|,one leg; while others
These have only
singular tribe indeed.
women
forehead, while the
men
are
region
or
too
It
with
big
holes
about on poles
gifted
was
still,
for
through
and
they can
at this place that
a single
is
one very
huge eye
carry a multitude of breasts.
of the heart, so that they
carried
more
There
are adorned with the claws of birds.
again
their
may be
the
bodies above the
spitted like herrings,
lastly there is
fly
in
There
through the
our writer Chang,
one community
air
who
with wings.
said he
was
SHI-SHOW-HIEN.
from
suffering
buy a
cold,
"
do
despatched one of the boatmen ashore to
The
bottle of sam-shu.
integrity of the
there
require
and put back
noticed
the
purse, which, as
the
rogue
crafty
in the
marvellous than touching.
less
here, "
is
purse in the boatman's hands
placed his
said he, as
" but take what
Just before, however,
rest. "
he
you
had
carefully count the cash in this very
turned out, contained no more than exactly
it
for the purchase.
sufficient
On
which he displayed
trust
messenger was no
know how much
not
I97
the
when passing
29th,
pursued and overtaken by a

received
impressed
and a
cigar
with
cotton-junk
glass of
wine and
We
our respectability.
wrecked
lying
station, we were
who came on board,
customs'
fiery official,
on
by a
sailed
and
bank,
the
went away greatly
also
large
one
second
which had run aground where the water was deeper, and whose
were now
owners
living
in
mud
hole, waiting
should rise high enough to float their
At Shi-show-hien we bought a quantity of
fish;
was one described by Captain Blakiston, which

above
for
This sword
wide toothless mouth.
its
boring
into
the soft
mud
till
the river
craft.
among them
carries a
it
is
to dislodge the tiny fish,
thereupon rush for shelter down
its
sword
said to use
which
dark capacious throat.
The
stomach of the specimen we purchased, contained one or two of

these half-digested mud-fish.
down
tail
to the belly,
and
fins
to tip of
were white and
tail,
Its
red.
feet 2 inches;
from the spine half-way
colour,
was dark blue or
slate
the belly was white the

;
Length from point of sword
length of sword,
14 inches.
Shi-show-hien was formerly held by the Taiping rebels.
they built
now
a fortress,
whose ruins may
within sight of the
on one
hill
close at
hill
still
be seen.
We
Here
were
ranges in the province of Hunan, and
hand stood a temple
called the Ti-tai-shan,
198
forms
which
land-mark
striking
for
The
navigation.
river
changes which have taken place since our Admiralty chart was
laid
down renders
map
that
and other parts of the
on the
Shasze stands
is
comparatively useless, both for this
any rate when the waters are low.
river, at
bank of the Yangtsze
left
river,
which
here more than a mile and a half broad, with a deep roomy
channel
that
and we may gather from the crowd of native shipping

anchored
lies
embankment,
town
the
off
This embankment terminates at
crowned
wark,
with
site against
the
town
the
placed
water
at
for
bank
while
on the
hills
to
difficult
two
there
places
splendid
in
only
In
way
Tsang-yang-hien
suitable for
yet
former province
the
more coal-mining going
in every
almost any part of the

for a foreign settlement
sites
Hunan and Szechuan, and
procure.
to an extremely limited degree
deal
at
unlimited
in
At Shasze, landing-
town.
the
might be made
are
obtainable
readily
is
its
freely used in this part of
is
across the stream.
abounds
Coal
and
gorges above
steamers
and
always keeps a clear channel close to
Yangtsze,
in the
in fortifying
such an angle on the stream, that the
stone-retaining wall. Stone
stages
in a sort of bul-
the undermining influence of the current
of the
upper
stone
fine
its
centre of trade.
pagoda to be found anywhere
strong
supplies
upper end
its
finest
action
the
to
close
Immense labour has been bestowed
along this river.

this
is
or
we have reached an important
that
it
we found
is
worked
and Pa-tung-hien, and there
but in Szechuan there
on.
it
at
The
coal
steam purposes
is
at
is
good
of good quality,
least the
samples
which we collected were excellent.
We
arrived
on
February
3rd
at
the
town of Kiang-kow.
Here the men struck work, as they wished

what they
called
rice,
but
to
go ashore
for
which Chang interpreted as wine.
A MUTINY.
We
spend
we
This
it.
refused
steadfastly
concede,
to
The mutineers next hauled in the

down for a smoke but in about an
to terms.
themselves
no prospect of our
of letting the wife of his
bosom
produced such a powerful
effect
resumed
and
and sat
hour, seeing
to,
under penalty
loose on them.
This prospect
on the men that they instantly
work.
their
now
were
sails
yielding, the skipper consulted his sweet spouse,
and then forthwith ordered the men to turn
We
would not
cut off their captain's pay unless he brought his
threatened to
men
rice; but that they
demanding an advance of money and leave of absence
accept,
to
them with
offered to supply
199
fairly
entering the mountainous region, and
quitting the great alluvial plain that stretches hundreds of miles
southward to the
Seven Gates"
We
sea.
towering
in
could just see the "Mountains of the
dark masses
the evening closed in upon us and
Our skipper determined

assured
we
above the horizon, as
cast
anchor for the night.
to serve us out for our obstinacy.
would be necessary to keep an armed watch
who were
he feared his men,
We
the
He
us that the place was infested with pirates, and that
noticed
river.
men
fishing
all
night.
it
Perhaps
certainly a dare-devil-looking set.
with trained otters on this part of
There were a number of boats, and each boat was

The animal was thrust
furnished with an otter tied to a cord.

into
the water and remained there until
then
it
its
We
tail,
it
had secured a
fish;
his foot
upon
was hauled up, and the fisherman, placing

stamped vigorously
passed
two
until
it
prosperous-looking
had dropped
towns,
little
its
finny prey.
Po-yang and
Chi-kiang; and on the morning of February 5th were sailing be-
neath bold rocky bluffs backed by a chaos of fantastic mountain

peaks.
Here,
on
was perched, not
the
far
highest
pinnacle,
a Buddhist monastery
from the brink of the
river.
It
was fronted
200
by a precipice of 6oo
scale
to
all,
above the stream.
feet
and to
stony height
this
when compared with
insignificance
and looked quite inaccessible
as
retreat
removed
this,
as
cloister,
as
far
amid the
way, sinks into
the task of self-subjection
each inmate of the
set before
in its
at its
But after
rear a shrine
although a wonderful achievement
clouds,
daily
feet,
more than 1,200
of
altitude
who, even
in
such
well can be from the
it
haunts of men, finds the lusts of the flesh and the pride of
too
strong
to
Many
be effectually subdued.
monastic establishments
we have
in China, as
planted in most romantic and lovely spots
we found no exception
before us
On
same day,
the
This city
Ichang.
and as
it
is
already seen, are
and
in the
one now
to the rule.
noon or a
at
life
of the Buddhist
little
we anchored
after,
at
one of considerable commercial importance,
stands at the entrance of the Gorges,
it
is
the highest
point to which steam navigation can be carried until these rocky

defiles,
which extend for upwards of lOO miles beyond
it,
shall
have been thoroughly surveyed, and some obstacles removed,
which render the navigation there by
on the
rivers
and
the
is
present
must here
Ichang
of China.
limit
of
steam
most dangerous
far the
now open
is
to foreign trade,
navigation
refer the reader to the Imperial
on the
river.
Maritime Customs'
Reports for 1895, ^^^ information regarding the trade of Ichang.
At present, foreign goods are distributed from

surrounding
the
usual
yellow
provinces,
cereal
silk,
although
it
The town
on the
a canal.
left
crops
tung-oil
is
raised
this port
through the
while the rich plains of Hupeh, besides
beans,
and opium
more
millet,
;
rice
and rape
produce
the latter in small quantities,
plentifully in
Szechuan and Yunnan.
of Ichang sweeps in a crescent-shape round a bend
bank of the
The one
river,
and
is
divided into two halves
half occupies high land, while the other
is
by
on
THE GORGES.
IN
lower
and comprises a
ground,
severely
we were
afternoon
the
small
gun-boats,
were drawn up
vals.
go
say
off at
each
in line
mounting
and
cannon
fight
at irregular inter-
artillery refused to
was
over,
all
hear them discharging themselves during the night.
were
the
In
Six
a six-pound gun at the bow,
fired their
and when the sham
which suffered
the spectators of a naval review.
because some of the
irregular,
all
suburb
large
flood of 1870, but has since been rebuilt.
the
in
201
we could
The boats
and had each about forty rowers on board. When

was over, the admiral landed and rode off on a
small,
review
gaily-caparisoned pony, followed by his retainers.
At Ichang we had
ascent
of
the
our return.
goddess
Before
its
to
hire
Gorges, and
we
a large
we
left
started a cock
and feathers
blood
rapid-boat to
was
were
men
at
the
sacrificed to the river
We
who worked
sweeps,
the
sprinkled on the bow,
while a libation was poured upon the water.
twenty-four
make
our sailing vessels to await
had a crew of
to the tune of
a shrill piping song, or rather yell, and under their exertions
it
was not long before Ichang had been passed and the mouth of
the first gorge was before us.
Here the river narrows from half
a
mile
rocky
The
a few hundred yards across, and pours through the
to
defile
with
velocity
that
makes
it
difficult to
enter.
rose on each side from 500 to 2,500 feet in height,
hills
presenting two irregular stone walls to the river, each worn and
furrowed with the floods of ages, and showing some well-defined

water-markings 100 feet above the winter stream, up which
we
were now
the
toiling
The
on our way.
further
more desolate and dark became
we entered
gorges
the
narrow
barren defile presenting a striking contrast to the wide
cultivated
plains
from the
sea, for
through which
the
scene
the
we had been making our way
more then 1,000
miles.
202
The only inhabitants of

who prosecuted
appeared to be a few
region
this
fishermen,
among
avocation
their
the rocks
while their rude huts could be seen perched high in inaccessible-
among
looking nooks and crannies
they
indeed,
which we
could
visited
beneath
out
the
be
hardly
were
them
caves, or holes scooped
and
rocks,
Huts,
those of
at least
natural
either
sheltering
the mountains above.
called
closed
in
with what
resembled the front of an ordinary straw-thatched cottage.
These smoke-begrimed abodes

which
cave-dwellings
light
were
glimmering from a taper
once
simple
the
grim
features
of
furniture
articles
inmates.
be
interiors
and
dark
the ancient
Wemyss Bay
gloomy, the clay
cold and covered with fishbones and refuse, while a dull
floors
at
The
Scotland.
in
my mind
called to
sheltered our forefathers at
residence
up
fitted
and yet
it
of
in a recess in the rocks,
of
that
this
small
idol
made up
sort,
with
the property of the

all
contains, might
it
an original cost of probably one pound sterling
at
was
in
such places that
we found
the frugality and
industry of the Chinese most conspicuously displayed

side
caves, wherever there
the
the rocks,
tables,
of
little
soil
for out-
on the face of
had been scraped together and planted with vegeThis
inhabitants.
Further
quarrying
the
stream
many
in
formation
of
on we
stone,
supporting
was
found
and
in
the
rocks,
a
taking
number
forming river
bread
out
of a
men engaged in
embankments. The
of
so that the softer portions had been
series of grotesque flint pillars
were
left,
the upper strata which towered above our heads in
precipices of a thousand feet.

the
indeed
a
places hereabouts had undermined the limestone
washed away, and
like
was a
which were made to contribute to the domestic economy
the
stone!
it
revealed
and the few and
high
walls
In other places the rocks looked
and ramparts of a
fortress, or the battle-
N
t/i
&.
a,
rt
O
>
THE CHINESE NEW YEAR.

The
ments
and towers of a
region
must have a severe struggle
citadel.
203
inhabitants of this sterile
for existence, but they are
a hardy and independent race, scorning the mendicant tricks of
more
their
only
fell
men
on deck
slept
lest
should
fellow-countrymen
abject
find
the
in
some
open
keep
and
air,
them dead
of
cold was intense during the night.
in
was always
and
small
came
orchards
afraid
But they huddled themselves
into
managed
to
Near the upper
end of the gorge the huts were of a better

improved
Our
the morning, for the
night air from freezing their blood.
the
Thus
plains.
the awning of matting, and thus
beneath
together
the
in
with a single beggar in these mountain passes.
in
class
the soil
displaying
sight,
profusion of plum-blossoms even at this season of the year.
We
were
village
with
had
to
spend
Year.
The
shrine,
which
stood
half
day
crew might
the
that
New
Chinese
was
festival
here
dispute
sullied his
on a picturesque
was
stand
erect.
but
soon
suggested
place
at
the
the
spot surrounded
feet high.
Chang
He complained
of their riotous,
found that our venerated inter-
himself not without
He
boatmen, who, as he protested,
the
honourable name.
drunken conduct;
preter
with
at
celebrate
conducted
and backed by a mountain 2,000
pine
had
compelled
Kwang-loong-Miau,
called
sin,
and was indeed unable to

chief offenders ought to
the
that
be taken before the nearest magistrate.

In
truth
crackers,
they
made
quarrelling,
were once more ready

a portion
give
for
first
of
what
and
great uproar during the night, firing
gambling;
for work,
little
but
next
morning
they
though some of them had sold
they had
in the
shape of clothing, to
new year a fair start, and looked all the more savage
the change. They soon got heated, as we had cleared the
gorge and were now ascending a rapid. It was the first,
the
204
by no means the
but
yelling
like fiends
add to
to
drum,
At
dead
as
halt,
of
about
centre
so
much
utmost
their
in
the
at
strain,
launched our boat into
last
this
rapid consists not
force as in the narrowness of the channel, and
multitude of rocks, sunken as well as above the water,
which
the
second,
the
were the tracking
boat,
line to part,
would
Lukan Gorge, the mountains rise

some places over the chasm
or
greater altitude, projecting in

to
and exclude the
join
There were
light
from the already darkened
numerous strange perpendicular markings
rocks, like borings for the purpose of mining.
ently
of
imprisoned
sand
shafts,
has at
made by
been
pebbles
two Szechuan
across
in
in these
Small hard
time pierced these deep vertical
water on the face of the rocks
rapid, Shan-tow-pien,
trading-boats,
we
if
river.
recesses of soft rock, with the aid
attrition of the
since
to a
as
These had appar-
sort of natural sand-drill.
the
brought the tunnelled apertures to
At the next
come
in
and water, have
and the
last
cer-
and there be dashed to pieces.
tainly drift,
In
hands and feet
with
The skipper stamped, danced and
and they, responding with a wild shout,
and a
tug
in its
to put forth their
of the rapid there was a
smooth water above. The danger of
the
on
crew
to his
a desperate
while the boy,
the boat had stuck fast on a reef, though the
if
planted firmly on the rocks.
bellowed
men
the
stirring
the
were straining to
trackers
beat a gong, and the cook a small
lustily
the purpose
for
men
the
Off they sped,
to a tracking line.
above the roar of the water
the din,
strength.
full
The bulk of
least dangerous.
were on the bank, attached
making
started
from
we
light.
noticed the wrecks of
in all nine
Ichang.
which we had
It
was snowing
we made our way over the rocks to the village, which

came down close to the water's edge and towards dark we
heavily as
0)
>
o
o
C
cS
4
n
o
THE GREAT
found ourselves
of
205
made out of the
front of a small cabin
in
The owner
wrecked boat.
RAPID.
some days
resided within, and had been residing there for
He
past.
wretched, but he would have nothing to
and
looked cold
debris
of the wreck, an aged man,
say to us and haughtily rejected our proffered help.
We
had now reached the great rapid of the Upper Yangtsze,
which occurs at the mouth of the Mitan Gorge.
was engaged
photographing the scene,
in
who asked many
darin,
my
title,
my
questions about
my
country,
Here, while
in
fell
honourable name and
kinsmen, and as he had never set eyes
on a photographic instrument before, he wanted to see the
my
of
When
work.
with a man-
shown
the picture was
result
to him, he enquired
by what possible means a drawing could be so perfectly completed

for
sure
off
so short a space of time
in
an
I
to
had neither horns,

the
and then, without waiting
and casting an anxious glance
answer,
with
village,
uncanny one, and that
hoofs,
at
me
visible,
tail
conviction
the
my
nor
my
art
was an
were only
craftily
that
diabolical insignia
make
to
he hurried
concealed.
Accordingly,
on
taking
my
next view
was surrounded by a crowd of

it
was explained
with
sundry
that
tokens
stones.
Chang
effect.
We
was only securing a

dread
of their
same
at the
sullen spectators
tried his eloquence
picture, favoured
in the
some
such
pictures
refuge
in
for
on the people, but with
as
ascent of the rapid.
the
them,
of
little
had heard
the
my companions
No doubt
these
popular fiction that
mine were made out of the eyes of Chinese
narrowly
a
me
shape of sods and
the bank to cross over to the other side, where
babes.
packed up as quickly as possible and marched down
were preparing
villagers,
village,
who, though
boat;
escaped
but
stroke
from an oar as
took
the blow was warded off with a force
206
sent
that
author
its
which he emerged
spinning headlong into the stream, from
below
the
rapid,
good deal shaken and
bruised, but with no serious injury.
This
rapid
one
is
panorama of the
as
of
emerges from the pass
it
a polished cylinder of glass

curves
upwards
tumult
down
in
grandest spectacles in the whole
the
The water
river.
falls
crest of
At
the gorge.
come
to
and groaned
in the
in
eight or ten feet,
foam
this
the peril of shooting the rapid.
Chang
presents a smooth surface
then suddenly seems to bend like
as
it
and
away
surges
finally
in
wild
season sundry rocks enhance
On
our
boat with us
way down we persuaded
but as the vessel plunged
an agony of straining timbers, he became per-
fectly sick with panic fear.
It
was indeed hardly
to
be wondered
at.
The
with
dark piercing eyes, a huge black moustache and a mouth

of protruding teeth.
He and his assistant guided the boat
full
to
pilot
we employed
time was a
at this
what seemed the worst part of the
rapid,
her into the raging waters broadside on.
she
swept
round,
bow
foremost,
and then launched
After the
tossing
flinging his
arms on
high, shouted
first
and writhing
thought she would go to pieces and disappear.

pilot,
bony man
tall
plunge
until
Meanwhile the
and danced about the
deck, conveying the notion that the craft was doomed, although
in
he was only guiding
reality
boat,
regardless
a fearful impetus, bearing right
game.
mate
our
in
far
It
fee,
lives
men
down
moment, and then darted
at the last
water
his
at
shooting
the
this
helm.
for the rocks,
But the
the
trifle
risk of his
rapid
dodged them
into comparatively
The pilot's buffoonery

pays when at last he presents
below.
and for
at the
of oaths, oars and rudder, sped forward with
is
smooth
probably part of his
himself
for his legiti-
extra which he expects for saving
own.
may be
That there
is
great danger
gathered from a survey of the
'f^.-.
COAL
wrecks
the
strew
that
MINES.
from
shore,
207
the Ufe-boats in constant
attendance, or from the fact that the Chinese unload their boats
the head of the rapid, and have their cargo and themselves
at
transported overland to the smooth waters below.
This
Tsing-tan
then,
rapid,
the greatest obstacle
is
We
steam navigation of the Upper Yangtsze.
men
trackers from the village to aid our
the
stream,
see
no
why
on
towing
the
the
up, or
vessel
Were
scientific
skill
but
and indeed any of the other
this,
the steam power to be capable of either
river,
descent.
fifty
boat up
the kind of steamer Captain Blakiston has
suggested should not navigate

rapids
in hauling the
which here ran about eight knots an hour
reason
to the
had to hire
the
river
retarding
her
swift
opened
once
would be forthcoming
to
to
and
hazardous
steam, daring and
accomplish
end
the
in view.
The mountains
as
scale
those
of
this
gorge
on the same stupendous
are
Lukan passage below.
of the
On
we
the nth
reached a small walled town called Kwei, with not a single craft
nor a
we
human being
halted
mines
for
near
it
to betoken trade of any kind.
the night, and in the morning visited
a place called Patung, where
at
which the coal
is
Adits had been carried into the
of the rock, but they were
all
of them on an exceedingly
scale
simple
burrowings
without any depth.
were sunk,
and no
ventilation
was attempted.
small
and
even
with such
turned out
good
at
as
work,
in
some we got
a
No
shafts
Coal abounds,
rude appliances as the miners possess,
considerable quantities
carries
coal
the limestone strata in
formed, stand up in nearly perpendicular walls
against the edge of the river.

face
Here
some
but the quality
is
not so
The miner when

much the same as
H. Davy's invention. The coal
further up the gorge.
lamp stuck
those in use with us before Sir
is
in
his cap,
2o8
was shunted from the mouth of the

the face of the cUffs, and
ported
in
mining
villages
kreels
employed
on the
at
place
this
entirely
pit down a groove cut in

when conveyed any distance is transbacks of women. There were several
the
in
and
there every
the
trade,
children
household
making
fuel
is
by
mixing the coal with water and clay, and then casting it in
moulds into blocks which weigh one catty ( 1 7., lb.) apiece. The
who
miners
a week,
are occupied in this
and
morning to about 4 p.m.

Baron von Richthofen has
of
coal
present
Hunan
in
Szechuan
work earn about seven
their hours of labour are
of
also
is
assured
Hupeh,
enormous
consumption
of
rate
and
shillings
from seven o'clock
us
and
that there
the
that
He adds
area.
world
the
in the
plenty
is
coal-field
that
at
draw
could
of
the
its
supplies from Southern Shensi alone for over a thousand years
and
yet,
in
the
very
places
firing
use
the
have
while
winter,
in
beneath
basis
been
their
of
in
is
it
not
uncommon
millet-stalks for their
coal in untold quantities lies ready for
These vast
feet.
China's
called
referred to,
up wood and
to find the Chinese storing
future
to
aid
coal-fields will constitute
when
greatness,
in
science
development
the
of
shall
her
enormous mineral wealth.
Wu-shan Gorge which we reached on the morning of the

is more than twenty miles long, and we entered this great
defile about ten o'clock.
The river was perfectly placid; and
the view at the mouth of the gorge was one of the finest we
1
8th,
had hitherto encountered.
The mountains
ses to a great altitude; the
of the passage,
sparkled
in the
gem, while the
rose in confused mas-
most distant peak
at the
extremity
resembling a cut sapphire, with snow-lines that
sun
cliffs
like the
gleams of
light
on the facets of a
and precipices gradually deepened
in outline
i/:
ri
^^
0>
THE
UNIVERSITY
RIVER PIRATES
reached the
they
until
209
and shadows of the rocky-
bold lights
foreground.
The
ware of
gunboat stationed
of a
officers
at the
and they had good reason
pirates,
boundary which
Hupeh and Szechuan, warned
provinces of
the
parts
us to be-
We
for so doing.
came to anchor at a place where the rocks, towering overhead,

wrapped the scene in darkness; and it was nearly 10 p.m. when
our skipper sent to say we had better have our arms ready, as
We
up alongside, and
Our
men on
watch
all
night,
roused
again
to
stealing
down on our
to
made no
fire,
reply, so then
was responded
fire
from some
boat had just passed noise-
occupants were talking
its
hailed them, but they
their heads.
One
were prowling about.
pirates
lessly
to
the bank not far
and
about two
at
challenge
boat's
quarters.
by a
flash
in whispers.
we
After this
off.
in the
over
fired
and a report
we kept
morning were
all
crew that was noiselessly
second time we were forced
and the sharp ping of the
rifle-ball
on the rocks had
the effect of deterring further advances from our invisible foes.
The
disturbers of our repose
ed with
dark, and at night
would
boat
On
that he
it
venture
another night
who appeared
me
occurred, as
clammy
then
series
even by day
fear
an
inch from
this gorge,
just seen a
is
her
somewhat
rock-bound moorings.
was summoned by
It
my
boy,
group of luminous
we
spirits that
were
was evident that something unusual had
had never before seen the boy

so
in
such a state of
followed him on to the deck, and looking
precipice, about eight
saw three
it
so utterly without light that no trading-
is
the cabin with a face of blank terror, and told
in
had
in
haunting the pass.
up the
must have been thoroughly acquaint-
this part of the river, for
lights
hundred
feet
above our heads, we
on the face of the rock, performing a
of the most extraordinary evolutions.
My
old attendant
14
2IO
down
declared, the cold perspiration trickling

that
his face the while,
he could make out sylph-like forms waving the lights to
warn wayfarers
off the
edge of the abyss
This seraph band, each waved his hand.
"
It was a heavenly sight

They stood as signals to the
Each one a lovely light."
The
explanation
true
perhaps,
that
phenomenon
lay
the fact,
in
very gorge there are hapless beings, con-
in this
immured
victs,
the
of
land,
prison-cells cut in the face of the rocks, into
in
which they are dropped by their gaolers above, and from which
they can never hope to escape unless to seek destruction by a
Here, too,
plunge into the river below.

a
we
find inhabitants of
widely different stamp, a number of philosophic followers of
who
Laou-tsoo,
pass their lives as hermits in these dark solitudes.
one cave we came across the remains of a Taouist philo-
In
sopher
of this
a recluse
sort;
they
relics
knew him
lay
and
expired, so
it
was
have been more than a century
in the centre of the cave,
stones
of
to
who
which
sods,
said,
at
Several of the boatmen averred that
the ripe age of 200 years.
had
old.
His
covered over with a cairn
been
thrown up by passing
mountaineers.
February
15.
To-day
ascending
and
aided
when
this,
we met with a disaster as we were

The boat was caught by a blast of wind,
rapid.
by a strong eddy, was
just sending her over,
the skipper's mate, the most active youth on board, sprang
forward
and cut
the
tracking
line.
The
trackers unexpectedly
relieved of the great strain, were sent sprawling over the rocks
while
as
down
the
mile
for
the
rapid,
below
boat,
till
the
she
righted
at
at last she settled
scene
of
the
once and then drifted
on a
accident.
spit of
So
sand half
far the result
THE RETURN VOYAGE.

was
satisfactory
and
our
we were on one side of the stream

As there was a village near at
but then
on the
crew
other.
we at once repaired thither to engage a boat to convey

men across but not a soul would stir unless we paid them
beforehand nearly as much as would buy another village, such
hand,
our
as
We
was.
it
Seeing
they thought better of
this,
We
bargain.
fair
Gorge.
Before
Wu-shan,
noticed
from mines
Opium,
We
left
outlet
bank,
and
hills
silk
and
it
is
small
salt
is
brought
that
river
and
joins the
in great quantities
the chief products of this
reach Kwei-chow-fu
in the face
6th, after having
miles
above
easy,
and
ever tasted in China,
but
we could make
of a storm that swept in fearful blasts
filled
the
We
air
with a fine blinding sand,
therefore left Szechuan on the
ascended a distance of over thirteen hundred
Shanghai.
The
eighteen days
the
Next day we made a strenuous
hundred.
irritating to the eyes.
on
walled town of
the
richly-tilled valleys
also singularly rich in fruits of various sorts.
gorge and
the
above the Wu-shan
of
among
and tea are
futile effort to
no headway
most
ourselves.
at a place called Ta-ning.
shilling
down
we jumped
it
apologised and struck a
lay
bought the most delicious oranges

a
though
foot
the
it,
for that night,
to,
on the
down which
and
Yangtsze,
district,
came
us,
surrounded by low
we
here
last
one of their boats, and threatened to use
into
for
them what the boatmen considered a
offered
but this they stedfastly refused; until at
fair hire,
foreign
return
after
settlement
voyage was comparatively
leaving
at
Szechuan we again
Hankow.
Here our
set
friends
received us with a hearty welcome, and plied us with the most
minute
enquiries
as
to
the
state
of the
appearance of the proposed new treaty-port
At Hankow
rejoined
some of my
river
and the exact
at Ichang.
oldest friends in China,
212
and
it
them
was not without

that
pang of sincere regret
stopped at Kiukiang on the downward
days
three
or
from
at parting
stepped on board the steamer,
in
trip,
and spent two
The native city, although it

near the mouth of the Po-yung lake,
the settlement.
holds an important position
and thus communicates with the network of canals and streams

form
that
the
trade
routes
the
into
green-tea fields of
vast
Kiangsi and Ngan-Hwei, has nevertheless failed to attain a high
commercial position
much
by which
tive districts
severe
waste
nor has the foreign settlement either, done
yet towards monopolising the
in
blow
at the
it
is
hands of the
i86i, had not, even at the time of
Kiukiang
probably
will
rise
One
steam navigation.
my
visit,
of the
regained
this
fact
alone
sufficient
poverty and misery which
many
into
seemed
thinly populated,
and
to account for the absence of the
fall
to the lot of the toiling millions
called Tai-ping-kung, about ten miles inland
most remarkable architectural

edifice
European
features.
All that
remained of a
like the
building.
pointed gothic apertures of a
The
walls
of a small joss-house
adjoining were built partly of finely sculptured stones

ruin,
from
were two towers pierced with windows,
which looked something
whole
made
form a very favourable
found the ruins of an ancient shrine, presenting
once extensive
medieval
to
quarters of the land.
At a place
Kiukiang,
me
region, however,
is
greater commercial
have been thrown open
the soil and the prosperity of the
of
fertility
The
cultivators.
shall
or two excursions which
the surrounding districts, enabled
estimate
much
into
importance when the Po-yung lake
in
The city, which suffered

rebels who left it a ruined
former prosperity.
its
to
of the richly produc-
traffic
surrounded.
indeed,
was unlike anything
and the
had before seen
in
NANKING.
China.
may
1
seemed more European than Chinese, and possibly
It
point to Ricci's Jesuit mission to that part of the province in
590.
however, said to have once been one of the greatest
It is,
Buddhist establishments
old shrine
scribed
with
The next
point at which
any port open

household,
and
boat,
this
in-
a celebrated Confucian
lived in the twelfth century.
touched was Nanking, the ancient
It
Chinese
was dark when, with

officers
of the
my
boys and
Governor-General's
descended from the steamer "Hirado" into a native
muddy bank beneath
on the
landed
famous
this
way back from
where there was no foreign settlement, nor
for trade.
two
and
baggage
the
praises ot Chu-fu-tze,
the
of China,
capital
On
Cathay.
in
passed over classic ground, where the rocks are
commentator and philosopher who
of
We
city.
the outer walls
had to spend the night
in a small
shed which had been provided for the convenience of passengers
making use of the
me
for
that
of natives,
myself
repose
to
courted
steamers.
river
company
with an orderly
sleep,
for
on
the
The place was crowded

who very kindly made room
table
air
but
it
was
in
vain
was obscured by clouds of
tobacco-smoke, and conversation was kept up with an incessant
clamour
all
night through.
deepest interest
As
it
happened the
talk
Tseng-kuo-fan, the Chinese general
was of the
who had
fought side by side with Li-hung-chang and Colonel Gordon

of the Taiping rebellion, had just
suppression
the
his palace in
by
his
own
Nanking.
Many
present said that he had perished
hand, or had succumbed to an overdose of gold-
leaf;
whereas the truth was, as
had
died
been
as
in
attacked.
my
fit
afterwards discovered, that he
of apoplexy, the second with which he had
His death was a great disappointment to me,
chief motive
celebrated
in
expired at
leader,
in
and,
visiting
if
Nanking had been
to see the
possible, obtain his likeness for
my
214
work.
larger
me
with
carried
introduction to him from
an
Li-hung-chang the Governor-General of

I
duly
presented
to
who
son,
his
and
Pei-chil-U,
me
sent
note
this
a reply expressing
the deep regret of the family that' they should have missed the
opportunity of obtaining a portrait.
remarked that
quently
that
after
all
it
But a general
officer subse-
was perhaps as well
for
me
not arrived in time to take the picture, as most assuredly
the speaker himself, and others as well as he, would have accused
me
of causing the untimely death.
from
belief,
which
that in taking
ciple
men
extracted from the body of the
is
a wide-spread Chinese
is
by no means
free,
a photograph, a certain portion of the vital prin-
decease within a limited period
The
It
of intelligence are
is
sitter,
and that thus
his
rendered an absolute certainty.
reader will gather from this that
was frequently looked
upon
as
and
have seen unfortunates, stricken with superstitious dread,
fall
down on bended knees and beseech me not
forerunner of death, as a sort of Nemesis
likeness or their
this
might
ago,
where a
life
with the
have occurred
in
photograph
fatal lens
our
of
my
own country
in
fact;
to take their
camera.
not
But
many
all
years
would have been esteemed a work
of the devil.
Tseng-kuo-fan was one of the foremost statesmen of
He was
a
noble
from
it
member
of
was even
the
the
Nanking.
second
He was
Grand
Secretariat,
his time.
and was created
class after the expulsion of the rebels
then at the zenith of his power, and
said that his wide-spread influence
court at Peking.
Pei-chil-li,
of the
In 1868 he
was dreaded by
became Governor-General of
and was removed from that
office after the Tientsin
massacre, and for the third time appointed Governor-General of

the two Kiang.
The view
of
Nanking was a disappointing one.
It
is
simply
NANKING.
a
and
miles,
Near
kingdom.
and
therefore
is
may be
religious edifices
where
cultivation
crowded
There were
sons of Han.
work
the
quarters
as usual,
is
many
still
dreary
one time
at
by
surrounded
of
restoration
was
being
in
actively
"Southern Capital" must probably have
on. This great
carried
been
itself,
demolished streets with not a single occupant, but
of
other
But the city
carried on.
is
number of yamens
while a
seen dotting the great open spaces
into the narrowest limits, capable of supporting half a
struggling
million
circuit
the largest city in the
hand are several heights crowned with tem-
at
and such-like sacred buildings
acres
makes a
area enclosed within a high wall which
vast
of twenty-two
ples,
215
what Le
one
walls,
Comte
"sixteen long leagues round." Such
some fourteen hundred years
"a splendid
stated,
the
the other, "
within
may have been

when
ago,
first
it
city
outermost,
its
condition
became the
Imperial head-quarters, or perhaps even so late as the fourteenth
when Hung-Woo,
century,
have
to
already
restored
sadly
fallen
upon
conferred
it
off
the
the
Ming Emperor,
first
is
reported
But the place had
glory.
its
pristine
at
the advent of the Tien-wang,
honour
once more.
dynasty
Chinese
to
it
of
It
making
was said to have been
recommendation of a very humble
who
the capital of a
it
at the
follower, an old sailor, that
the "Heavenly King," as he styled himself, decided on making
Nanking the
seat
matters
self-made
Why
this
his
celestial
government
He
the
great
Imperialists
Ming tomb,
but
in
other
professed to believe implicitly
was a second son of God, sent down
When
potentate was not so easily pursuaded.
should he have been
that he
the
of
were marshalling
and when
to
redeem China.
their forces
around
and
faithful
his old soldiers
adherents were starving in the streets, he gave orders that they
should
be
fed
on
dew, and sing a new song
till
the hour of
2l6
deliverance came. Calmly he sat within his palace, looking with
upon the gathering forces
disdain
the
The
blow.
fatal
when
his foes,
his faith
own
days by his
his
It
city
and fortitude forsook him, and he ended
hand.
moat
to the southern
gate.
Many
canal,
or else drawn up into groups and forming
passed,
the
canal
southern
At one small bridge beneath which
told
there
is
been planted there, when there
more than rude
is
erected
huts,
so
Many
difficult to tell.
is
Why
large suburb.
this
market-
little
me that there, after the fall

had been dammed up by rebel heads.
was
it
gate
the walls,
way along
boats were to be met winding their
places every here and there.
we
strike
hands of
fallen into the
a tedious journey round the city
is
were to
that ere long
had not yet
it
of Nanking,
Outside the
should have
much vacant space
of
its
ground
over
within
dwellings are nothing
strewn
with the
graves and bones of Taipings and Imperialists mingled together
kindred dust.
in
Here, too,
found the old porcelain tower of
Nanking (once one of the seven wonders of the world, but now
levelled to the earth)
trade in
and a number of small speculators driving

But most of the bricks of
porcelain bricks.
its
tower and of the "Monastery of Gratitude
were used
two
the
in
will
which
it
should say that the

in the
be held to be
latter,
this
belonged,
constructing the Nanking arsenal close by
edifices
been by Li-hung-chang,
Land,"
" to
planted as
and of
it
had
very heart of the " Central Flowery
far the
more wonderful structure of the
two. Here, then, the old Buddhist tower and the monastery with
its
to
monotonous
the
Chinese
chants, have been replaced
Vulcan
and
Mars,
by a temple dedicated
whose
altars are furnaces,
v/hose worshippers are melters of iron, and from
come
rifles
the
whose shrines
never-ceasing rattle of machinery and the reports of
that are being tested for service.
THE PORCELAIN TOWER.

This
arsenal,
built as
hung-chang, was the
on the most advanced
have
first
of
said,
kind
its
under the auspices of Li-
and
in China,
Sir H. Macartney.
It
a startling innovation on the old style of things.

first
conducted
If
is,
indeed,
the Chinese
taught us the use of guns (They are said to have employed
them
1232
in
repaying
our
is
under the superinten-
scientific principles
dence of Dr. Macartney, now
21/
the
deadliest
hundreds
every
of
tons
proved of service
and
no
have
made.
to be
In
how
some
products have already
its
Mahometan outbreak
suppression of the
in the
this arsenal
ammunition are manufactured
doubt
provinces of Kiangsu and Shensi.
in the
are certainly
with interest by instructing them
guns
of
I
we
siege of Khai-fung-fu),
weapons are
and
year,
the
at
obligation
Here the Chinese can
turn out heavy guns for battery-trains, or field-artillery, howitzers,

gatling-guns, torpedoes, rockets, shot, shell, cartridges
The
rocket
distance
factory
from the main building, and
to the filling of rockets
With respect
I
and
withdrawn,
to these arsenals
and
they
could
not
process of
tried,
to
official
filtration
any
repeated,
labourers.
humour an
everything
in the
foreigner
be
that
carried
officer
the
is,
^^have
that
were the
matured
to be
on so as to be of the
would be subjected
it
which would admit of nothing
inferior materials
An
shape of
in
appropriated
is
their high state of efficiency,
and
their maintenance, but
more than the purchase of

of underpaid
place
with their explosive contents.
Probably the same amount of money
slightest effectual service.
[this
and caps.
ground some
plot of
management under which they
would be spent on
as
shells
have one further remark to offer
strict foreign
to
on an open
stands
and the employment
experiment of
this sort
was once
who boasted himself able to produce

modern warlike inventions as perfectly
Empire.
But the
attempt
as the shells he manufactured turned out
was not
much more
21
deadly projectiles
hands of
in the
his
own men than they could

They were badly
ever have proved in the ranks of an enemy.
and
cast
with
filled
up with black-leaded
before
the
civilised
simple
coarse
iron,
Chinese
hope
can
dangerous imperfections were
their
So
clay.
to
my humble
take
opinion
position
is
that
among
the
Powers of the world, they must acquire something of

honesty,
and unlearn much of the science of deception
by which they study
to enrich themselves, while
making ready
Island," " Silver Island,"
and the mouth
to conquer their foes.

"
Kin-Shan
" or "
Golden
Grand Canal were the
of the
last
objects of interest
saw on
The Grand Canal may be set down as the

work of the race who wasted years of needless
the Yangtsze river.

greatest
public
labour in constructing the Great Wall to shut out the barbarous

hordes,
huge
utterly
who,
artificial
after
are
all,
waterway
broken down
is
masters of the Empire.
now
although
it
useless
in
many
But
this
places,
and
might have proved of incalcul-
able service in draining off the great waters of the Yellow River,
which
have, from time
to
time,
spread their desolating floods
over the vast productive plains of the
interior.
CHAPTER
X.
CHEFOO. TIENTSIN. PEKING. THE GREAT WALL.
The Foreign Settlement The Yellow River Silk Its Production

Taku Forts Chinese Progress The Peiho River Floods in Peichil-li Their Effects Tientsin The Sisters' Chapel Condition of the
People A Midnight Storm Tung-chow Peking The Tartar and
Chefoo
Chinese Divisions of the Metropolis
Its
Roads, Shops and People
The Foreign Hotel Temple and Domestic Architecture The Tsungli

Yamen Prince Kung and the High Officers of the Empire Literary
Championship The Confucian Temple The Observatory Ancient
Chinese Instruments Yang's House Habits of the Ladies Peking
Yuen-Ming-Yuen Remarkable Cenotaph A Chinese Array

Li-Hung-chang The Inn of "Patriotic Perfection" The Great Wall
Enamelling
The Ming Tombs.
Chefoo
is
a favourite watering-place for foreigners resident at
Peking or Shanghai, for there bracing
air
and sea-bathing may-
be enjoyed during the hottest months of summer.
The beach on which

foot
of a
the
European hotel
low range of grassy
semicircular sweep
able;
its
and of the
is
built,
have a
in
in its
Arran,
lively recollection of
stretch which at the time appeared interminsoft
yielding
sand over which, with a friend
remarkable alike for his good-nature, weight and

to
skirts the
and reminded me,
and general aspect, of Brodic Bay
on the west coast of Scotland.
Chefoo Bay; of
hills,
agility,
had
run from the steamer to forestall the other passengers and
220
secure
the
apartment for an invalid lady from Shanghai.
best
The thermometer
degrees
was standing
in the shade, so that after
condition
in
at the time
enjoy to the
to
full
through the verandah of the hotel.
charming
retreat,
comforts
which
and none the

the
we were
the cool breeze that swept
was an unpretending but

on account of the many
It
less so
enterprising
about one hundred
at
completing our task
had
proprietor
in
store
for
his guests.
Chefoo
bay,
and
foreign
is
But
coast.
settlement
about
lies
on the opposite side of the
inviting place of the kind
least
we must not
still
of standing on
the
forget that
the ground of the most classic province in the
Empire, where the engineering labours of the celebrated

in part
and
so
indeed
Pythagoras was pursuing

Confucius
to
Yu were
Confucius, too, was a native of the Shan-tung
performed.
province,
on the
enjoys the honour
it
was Mensius,
his
While
successor.
his philosophical researches at Crotona,
was compiling the
China what the compass
classical lore that has since
to the mariner at sea.
is
But
been
this
ancient guide to national prosperity, social, political and religious,
when
relied
on by those who now-a-days control the helm of
the Empire,
is
as untrustworthy as the compass of a man-ofwar when the steersman makes no allowance for the influences
of the
iron
rounded
of the
their
and
plates
steel
And
his needle.
"Central Flowery
ancient
books
fain
guns with which science has sur-
yet fain would the wisest Confucianists
Land"
still
rivet their
would they guide
rushlight
of a dim science and philosophy,
thousand
years
ago
noonday splendour,
The
tant.
foreign
Whether
is
and
that
lit
by the
by sages of four
truth,
like
the sun in
shining on the nations around.
trade of Chefoo
it
though
fond gaze on
their steps
is
small,
be that the natives
though not unimpor-
affect
more
the simple
THE HWANG-HO.
221
robes of their ancient sages than the less costly cotton fabrics of
Manchester,
Hwang-ho
as
districts
whether the constantly recurring floods of the
or
have
Yellow River,
or
impoverished
so
damage
materially
to
trade,
the
inland
a difficult point to
is
determine.
Since the Yellow River has changed
now
course and
its
flows
to the north of the Shan-tung mountains, a great portion of the
Grand Canal has been rendered

to which
and forced
The
took place
refer,
way
its
where
to the south
Chinese, however, breaking
energy and perseverance
ceeded
in
fairly
be
places
the
of course
again changed
it
joined the Yangtzse.
it
modern policy
their
defences, found scope
in turning
channel the waters of the Hwang-ho.
may
1889
away from
money on armaments and
of squandering
for their
The change
useless.
in 1852, but in
back to
its
northern
This they eventually suc-
doing by the aid of foreign appliances, a task which
accounted a triumph of engineering
banks had been carried away,
skill.
In
many
and an eye-witness
has described the scene in the following words:*
"For
dreari-
ness and desolation no scene can exceed that which the Yellow
River here presents
everything
natural and
mercy of the muddy dun-coloured waters,
artificial is
as they
at the
sweep on
their
course towards the sea."
But
floods
extent
river
come
this
as
we
of
from
see
shall
actually
country
its
in for a
there are
productive
as
aff"ect
we
suffers
old
pass through
Thus,
the people.
from
channel,
the
parts
as
any
soil
how
these
while a considerable
withdrawal
of the
great
of Shan-tung and Pei-chil-li
superabundant share of
some portions of
Pei-chil-li,
its
waters. Notwithstanding
the former province which are
in the world,
and where the nature
Journal of the Royal Geographical Society, vol. xl
p.
5.
222
of
climate
the
the
of
Besides
exportation.
coloured
and exported
Shan-tung,
This
on
tobacco and beans
China
in
silk,
produced
is
from
worm
wild black
from the mulberry.
in
from
steadily increasing quantities
in
obtained
is
a certain sort of dark-
"Pongee"
as
different kind of leaf
silk-worms
silk
foregoing
the
known
fabric,
silk
Chefoo.
millet, wheat, rice,
the shape of "bean-cake," forming a valuable article
latter, in
feeds
favourable to the culture of a wide range of
is
These include
products.
that
Rearing
an exceedingly delicate process, and one
is
which one might almost have supposed unsuited to the natives,

for
the
worm
little
been stated that

strangers
of
or
its
it
resembles
abhorrence
atmosphere
the
of
will
sounds
the
its
suffer great inconvenience
wherein
smells
No
the dainty
it
differs
odours,
sicken and starve
egg to the moment when
delight.
cannot endure the presence
of barbaric
masters,
uncleanly
it
has even
It
work before
tongues.
and indeed
itself to
If in
this
from them widely
For
death.
in
in a polluted
this
reason
from the time when the worm emerges from the
Chinese,
strong
in its habits.
refuse either to feed or to
and the Chinese aver that
foreigners,
respect
most exacting
is
will
it
so
wonder, then,
little
has
toiler
perishes in
it
its
own
silken robe,
must
by the compulsory absence of all those
many
if
of
them take an unaffected
the close of the silk season,
woven
its
shroud and met
its
when
doom,
should be one of great rejoicing.
Like
benefit
the
to the world
cast a glance
staple passes
The eggs
best
of
culture
tea,
silk
which
confers
an enormous
on China, and has now become an indispensable luxury
season
is
the most modest industry imaginable.
Let us
on the various progressive steps through which the

till
are
to
it
is
ready for the looms of China or Lyons.
hatched
obtain
about the
them
for
middle of April, and the
exportation
is
in
March, or
SILK.
beginning
the
small
their
are
they are
are fed with
and so the process continues
them
After hatching, the
lbs).
and then sleep
days,
five
When
two days.
size
in
entire.
until,
The
runs from four shillings and sixpence to eight
leaves
during
increase
number of frames, and
the leaves are given to
stage,
a picul (133
shillings
eating
worms
the
larger
so finely shred
last
of
price
to
not
leaves
As
shreds.
transferred
in
The young worms, when hatched
of April.
on bamboo frames and fed on mulberry-leaves cut up
placed
into
223
wake
again
they
worms continue
for the first time for
their appetite
not quite
is
so good, and they usually eat for four days only and sleep again
for
Then they
two days more.

and
days
repose
eat for the third time for four
This eating and repose
two.
for
repeated four times, and then having gained
proceed
The
their cocoons.
spin
to
them from four
more
to seven days
completed three days are spent
some seven days
each
later
up
it
worms
mode
is
of
the
that
of
injured
spin
is
it,
first
of
it
to native traders,
influences
out of account, the
affected
by the breed of the
all
then by the quality of the leaves and the
feeding.
As
by
by the presence and
noise,
not be too high.
have already remarked, the silk-worm
and by noxious
too, at regular hours,
especially
smells.
by the han-
They must be
fed,
and the temperature of the apartment must
The greatest defect in Chinese silk has been

mode of reeling, which the natives adopt.
to the primitive
Shanghai
first
cocoon, and
small cultivator brings his silken
superstitious
silk
dling of strangers,
due
this business is
in stripping off the
into bales.
Leaving popular
quality
usually
task of spinning occupies
and when
harvest to the local market and disposes of
who make
is
strength, they
full
is
the great silk mart, and there, about June
season's
silk
is
usually
brought
down.
It
is
ist,
the
never the
224
who
growers
growers
are
bring
leaves,
or
have
corner
of
their
time.
their
It
of
is
brokers
of
These
either purchase the
mulberry bushes planted
in
some odd
and the rearing of the worm and
by no means monopolise the whole of

their
women and
merchants
Chinese
families.
or
proceed to the country markets, and there collect the
produce
have
they
until
make up
secured enough to
the Shanghai or Chefoo markets, where
for
market.
foreign
who
only a spring occupation for the
members
younger
the
farmers,
lands,
silk
to
silk
small
few
tilled
production
the
the
invariably
it
a parcel
bought up by
is
foreigners for exportation.
two
paid
extremes
of
visits to
my
intense; but on
Ahong had
to
On
the
first
occasion the heat was
return the cold was so severe that
his ears
and nose
frost-bitten.
We
my boy
had proceeded
a hill-top to obtain a picture of Chefoo, but the north-west
wind,
blowing from
freeze
the
taking
photograph,
over
it,
around
the
shelter of the dark tent
edge.
friendly hut,
and washed
are
place
mud
repair
their
still
guns
strongholds,
they
all
surface and
wet
hung
in icicles
we adjourned
to
fire
plate process.
of importance at which
At the time of
described.
withdrawn the
where we thawed the plate over a charcoal
route north, was Taku, at the

forts
its
and poured the water
In spite of these difficulties
with hot water,
it
The next
in
sent to a neighbouring hut for a bottle
than the liquid froze on

its
of Mongolia, was like to
Having, however, succeeded
wash the negative, but no sooner had
from
plate
steppes
the icy
blood in our veins.
of water to
Chefoo, and must have experienced the
temperature.
mouth of the
we touched on our
Peiho.
The Taku
which have been often and well
my
visit
these forts had been under
were not yet properly garrisoned, nor were
mounted.
passed along a stone pavement which
TAKU FORTS.
from
leads
slough.
shot
down
fort.
We
month
the
in
attempt to storm the southern
much difficulty a twelveThe only entrance into this fort is across

from behind. As for me, I passed inside it without
the
word being asked
without
place
and
as
built,
manding the entrance
Lastly,
and altogether
noticed two large American
mud
in front of the officers
the whole the place wore the look of a deserted
mud-quarry rather than a
fortress.
a great change has since
fortresses,
of them, however,
their carriages,
half-buried in
lying
Some
to the stream.
sadly in want of repair.
On
millet-stalks
Within were two bat-
resist shot.
mounted on
badly
smooth-bores
are of great
walls
mud and
of
formerly,
guns a-piece, one above the other, and com-
teries of over fifty
quarters.
The
enclosure.
composition well adapted to
rusty,
there were only one or two
indeed
for
about the
loitering
thickness,
that
mud
men were
of our
afterwards.
coolies
were
many
that so
1859,
extremity of the
inner
the
across
in
unsuccessful
the
carried
a wide ditch
river
was here
It
225
But
come over
have been informed
the scene
that
these
one on each side of the Peiho, are now armed with
Krupp guns and properly garrisoned
so that thus the defence
of the capital has been secured after a scheme planned out and
decided upon long before the Formosa difficulty cropped up.
myself saw a battery of Krupp guns landed

that place of dark
memories
tion that the Chinese
were
at Tientsin
before
own
arming themselves with modern
there
is
invasion.
purpose
in
It
in all this.
probably not been blind
on
ammu-
and addressing themselves to the task of guarding
shores from
all
left
and indeed there could be no ques-
hastily
weapons, laying up stores of destructive projectiles and

nition,
their
may be nay, it must be that

The Chinese Government have
these years to what has been going
Japan, to say nothing of the visions they
may
entertain
15
26
edly
what they
do
have an absolute right to
retain the notion that they
still
They undoubt-
encounters with more formidable foes.
of possible
with their
like
own country and
in
it
and they
are probably only preparing themselves to assert or defend this

right
when
a suitable opportunity presents
in
despatch
to
dredge
channel
sand-bank
as
Chinese
the
He
in
Woosung Bar
the
to
barrier
facilitate
set there
itself.
at
and
trade,
Prince Kung,
Shanghai,
declined
regarded
the
by Divine Providence to
the defence of the country and
its
aid
approaches.
further pointed out that each nation has a right to guard and
protect
its
perhaps
is
about
exclusively
own
territory
very
for
by the means
natural
the
suppose
to
support
of
it
alone deems best.
that
Chinamen,
China
was
It
made
and that no other
race has a right to question this divine arrangement, or to seek
by the simple dredging of a sand-bar
who
kind Providence,
commerce which
the
to
is
to thwart the plans of a
thus closing up the river-courses against
furnishes millions of Chinese with
means
and clothe themselves that formerly they could never
feed
have obtained.
In this
narrow policy there
is
not the faintest recognition of that
by a thousand telegraphs, railways and industending more and more to bind the nations of the earth
divine progress which,

tries,
is
together in one universal kinmanship, where, by free intercourse and

liberal enlightened
and tongue,
The
will
government, peoples of every nation, kindred
be rendered mutually dependent on each other.
inundations were predicted just as they happened, years
before the swollen river burst
might have been

always been an
* Journal of the
its
barriers at
easily prevented
artificial
channel."*
Lung-men-Kan, and
by keeping
The
Royal Geographical Society,
clear
"what has
business was put
vol.
xl.
p. 19.
off,
INUNDATIONS.
from
however,
one year to another,
upon the
burst
until at last the red flood
and transformed a
plains
and
into lakes, lagoons
227
As we steamed up
fruitful smiling
country
pestilential marshes.
many
the Peiho, there were
places where
not a trace of the river's banks was to be discovered, and the
we ascended the more apparent became the ravages of

The millet-crop was rotting under the water, and
whole hamlets had in many places been swept away. The
village dwellings, like the Taku forts, were for the most part
further
the
flood.
of millet-stalks and
constructed
lated to
by one had
one
nothing
leaving
tops
the
them but something
could
their
hillocks,
means were removing

said to be doing their
enough
overheard
calcu-
abodes,
All
flood.
who had
where the authorities were
utmost to relieve the

a
of
by scraps of thatch or
sheltered
Tientsin,
to
new work
the wretched villagers squatting on
see
which they had rescued from the
matting
frail
that looked like
the melancholy landmarks of each
We
of
but however well
silently dissolved before the invading waters,
behind
grave-mounds,
desolation.
mud
the shots of an ordinary foe, these
resist
Chinaman say
Singularly
sufferers.
that
he considered the
flood a punishment for the Tientsin massacre, which had occurred

just a year before.
It is
quite impossible to estimate the misery that such disasters
upon the
bring
toiling
reft
of food, shelter
was
just at hand.
of
mud where
of
fishing
abundant
and
that, too,
all
herds of cattle were
Men,
the
shallows
and
this
women and
of
their
when
the winter
one sheet
sides presented
by the wrecks of
pasture.
in
fuel
The scene on
of water, only broken
want
poor of the province, who are thus be-
and
villages,
and by islands
packed and perishing
for
children were to be seen

harvest-fields.
Fish
was fortunate, as the people had
little
were
else
228
subsist
to
be
to
How
on.
they got through the hot days and cold
and how many of them survived their hardships only to
nights,
subjected
say.
them
to
We
could
in the
succeeding year,
from the bodies
tell
Death was busy among them,

the hungry in his
The
own
Chinese, like
sad
impossible
seaward that
and satisfying
relieving the sick
final
is
it
drifting
way.
both ancient and modern, have a
peoples
superstitious dread of disturbing the resting-places of their dead.
For many miles around Tientsin the country

ground,
and
making
to
was
it
the
lash
coffins
relation
to
that
many
in
were to be seen
care
But numbers of the huge
places
abandoned, and native
from the
direct
Our steamer,
tortuous
the
were
craft
The water was

river's
at the
had been
so to speak,
city.
her
bow would
of one bank, and her screw in the other
deep
channel
sailing overland,
living
so deep
the "Sin-nan-sing," had great difficulty in turning
the sharp bends of the river
was reached,
no
floating adrift, with
occupants.
their
for
one vast burial-
of their dead to trees or to posts
coffins
which they had driven into the mud.
clumsy
is
notice the efforts the living were
pitiful to
mud
stick in the
but at length Tientsin
and there we found the water
five or six feet
back of the foreign settlement, and the Peking road
submerged.
The
foreigners were looking forward to the prospect of soon
Here, on the bank of the
being shut in by a sea of
ice.
was a
"The Astor House,"
British hotel,
called
its
river,
modest pro-
portions almost concealed by the huge signboard in front.
This
establishment was constructed of mud, and on one side of
window had
in.
sation
fallen
had a look
with
its
out, while
at this
on the other the wall had
it
fallen
unpromising exterior and some conver-
proprietor.
The
latter
was an Englishman, and
TIENTSIN.
he lamented
were
me
to
and the other a bar
table
wreck of
over the
two apartments
still
229
property.
There
one containing a
billiard-
front,
in
his
but a couple of
mud bedrooms had
dissolved and could be seen in solution through a broken wall.
The
stabling in the rear also, out of sheer depression at losing
occupants, had taken a header into the water and disappeared.
its
We
next passed out of doors
to
bar-room
found
examine the ravages of the
had also
flood in sundry outhouses which
settled
down.
In the
Scotchman connected with the Tientsin
Powder Factory, saying some very hard
things about the pecu-
whom
he had entrusted some
views of a Chinese tailor to
liar
claith to
mak
had found
it
"vara guid braid

the
that
tailor
a pair of breeks."
necessary,
appeared
It
on account of family
concerns, to remove from Tientsin to another district, and had

cloth with
taken the
him without going through the ceremony
of leaving his card.

I
on
slept
August 29th.
board
steamer,
the
Before setting out
and started
Peking on
for
engaged a Tientsin man named
Tao, or "Virtue," at the rate of nine dollars a month; but this
sum was
a trifle
compared with what he intended
of me, as in every transaction, whether

a
into
dollar
cash,
or to
better, although they
could
only
however,
pilfering,
carried
all
round
large
the
nearest
wooden house
at night,
enough
to
men
their
wants
in
We
profitable
writing.
dialect,
and
Systematic
common
attribute
engaged a boat to convey us to
point by water to Peking.

in the
centre,
my
This boat
which could be shut up
so as to keep the cold out
accommodate
out
could have managed
soon discovered to be the
of servants in the north.
Tung-chow,
southern
were ignorant of the northern
make known
make
to
was simply to change
buy provisions, he made a
My own
bargain for himself.
it
and
party and baggage.
it
was
just
The space
230
within
one
was divided
it
into
two compartments, and
Our crew consisted of
stowed.
a father,
We
two sons, Wong-su and Wong-soon.

through the city of Tientsin
up
in the after
a clay cooking galley, around which the boys were
stood
Wong-Tsing, and
along a narrow ever-changing
channel between thousands of native trading-boats.
was not
It
without a free use of such poles, and the vilest epithets

language,
bank,
left
we
that
got clear of the floating Babel at
up beneath the mat sheds which the
salt
in
the
The
last.
was covered with mounds of
hereabouts,
his
had to make our way
piled
salt,
monopolist had erected
to protect his precious store.
The
river
at this point
on the
pointed
out
Sisters
Chapel
'
There,
too,
Sisters of
the
of
we
right
that
had
was about 200 yards wide, and Tao
bank the black bare walls
where the
could see the ruins of the hospital
Mercy had consecrated
sick,
of the
been burned twelve months before.
their lives to the ministration
and to rescuing outcast children
for
which good
works they had here been brutally murdered by an ignorant and

There was
superstitious
mob.
the
and the long breach
edifice,
murderers
breach
dragged
an
its
outrage
way
in
which the
wall through
victims
to their
had indeed been plastered up with mud, a
of the unsatisfactory
for
in
hapless
their
a heap of ashes in front of
still
The
doom.
fitting
type
which the Chinese sought to atone
which was perpetrated
almost within sight of
the Governor-General's yamen.
From
the
this
point, too,
we could
descry, at the upper end of
reach, the imposing ruins of the
Roman
Catholic cathedral,
the only striking object in the city of Tientsin

tion
was forced upon me, from what
stition,
that that
noble
much above what
pile
know
and the
reflec-
of native super-
of buildings, standing as
it
did so
the Chinese themselves hold most sacred in
^SE
LIB/?^
OF THK
UNIVERSITY
*^CALIFOR!^
f-^
a
5'
a
ft
AVERSION TO FOREIGNERS.
must
yamens and
shrines,
feeling
against
foreigners.
greatly
intensified
abroad
by the
their
by horrible
members
literary
manufacture medicines
foreigners
was
feeling
stories,
of
without doubt
most ingeniously spread

society,
describing
how
from the eyes and hearts of
Chinese children, or even of adults.
In the latter case
it
is
to
procure silver that these practices are alleged to be carried on
and
we may
this
a native
have stirred up a bitter
in itself
This
23
gather from the accompanying passage out of
work which was

" The reason
took place.
in brisk
circulation
for extracting eyes
when
the massacre
From one
is this.
hundred pounds of Chinese lead can be extracted eight pounds

of
and the remaining ninety-two pounds of lead can be
silver,
But the only way to obtain
sold at the original cost.
this silver
by compounding the lead with the eyes of Chinamen.
is
eyes
of
foreigners
the eyes of their
The
are of no use, hence they do not take out
own
Further on
people."
it
says :"
The people
of France without exception follow the false and corrupt Tien-
They have
chu
religion.
men
into beasts," etc.
This pamphlet
is
full
devilish arts
by which they transform
of matter unfit for quotation, and con-
cludes with an appeal to the people to rise and exterminate the
hated strangers:
" Therefore,
contemptible
these
wrath,
righteous
we,
heartily
beings
sovereign, would not only give vent to a

will
not
allow
but would
to
have
make an
adopted, this
us to stand under the

eternal
them ever near
nonhuman
having
aroused
our
adhering to the kingdom of our
end of the
us. ... *
If
little
of the hate that
same heaven with them,

distress of being obliged
the temporising policy
species will again increase."
Death-blow to Corrupt Doctrines.
is
The author
232
goes on, without mincing matters, to urge the utter extermination
and the preservation of the virtuous followers of
foreigners
of
When we
Confucius.
though, as
when we
consider that this pamphlet had a wide,
was pretended, a secret
it
whom
fierceness of the half-starved classes
and
some of
of
style
worst
its
Tao believed
about
implicitly
the
by a
guarded
fully
at
not
could
man about
at the
result.
The
of native gun-boats
until long after the
really
needed, nor did
deed had been accomplished.
me
surprised
mud
huts
in
which
his
time
at the
he
can be had
stalks,
cheaply
dear
for the
for
materials
finally,
down
poor
in his race
till
and
and
forming
domestic utensils
to
may
materials,
His argu-
mud and
millet-
whereas wood and stone are too
procure.
can be his
floods
quietly,
indeed
lifting,
man
The
over the plain, at every man's doorway
all
people
every
when
like this:
countrymen
pointed out what he
held to be the advantages of occupying such abodes.
ments ran something
my new
from offering some remarks to
refrain
the miserable
it
being care-
but there were
Whereupon, with a vanity not uncommon
dwelt.
although
who had
Sisters,
now were
ruins
hand when succour was
they reach the spot
professed to caution
the strange stories which he had
in
fleet
all,
and the
must have produced a
passages
been so cruelly put to death.
none of them
it
and about the poor
priests
and above
superstition,
moderate and subtle
calm,
the
we cannot wonder
fearful effect,
heard
whom
and on
enlighten,
circulation
on the utter ignorance and
reflect
rain
own
Then,
dissolve
mound
in
again,
architect
the tenement,
which
such
with
and mason
it
and
sinks
the furniture
repose, and on which the family
may
and
sit
the waters have subsided and they are able to set to again
up
their
river
here
raise
The
broken
is
walls.
spanned by one or two pontoon bridges,
o
J-J
(n
MILLET BREAD.
which had to be opened
pontoon
the
never
is
These bridges
to let us pass through.
form great impediments to the

for
233
both on land and by water
traffic,
up
pulled
make
to
a passage until
about a dozen junks and boats have collected, and their owners,
who by
been long waiting
have
time
that
for the event, are
clamouring and fighting amongst themselves to get
While the boats are passing through, the land

crowds
and
interrupted,
replacement
of the
make
way
their
of
each
on
forward
pressing
were
back,
As
stalls,
and vehicles are

to await the
aperture
or two of them, unable to
driven
the water and
over into
we passed. The narrow wooden

was made still narrower by a throng
beggars and jugglers.
lepers,
land rose towards the
the
of course
as
pavement of the bridge

of shops and
the
of
One
pontoon.
by boat-hooks
rescued
passengers
foot
side
through.
first
traffic is
hills
which sweep
like a cres-
cent around the north of Peking,
we emerged from
plains into a less desolate region,
where the people were not so
common
destitute of the
were lined with
on
dwellers
bread,
tough,
or
rather
elastic
quantities
effects,
its
at
donkeys
dough.
for
the
Our boatmen,
and garUc.
This
like the
flour of this useful cereal,
The
and pulled out
cooked
and where the banks
life,
the
flour
into
people
is
strings
consumed
which
made
into
of hot,
in
great
meal-times, and always appeared to recover from
in
me
it
seemed
just about as digestible as
Here we encountered many ponies, mules
cables.
breed, and having,
As
of millet.
on the
salt-fish
although to
india-rubber
and
with
necessaries of
fields
land, lived
season
they
ripe
the flooded
use
the
many
donkeys,
mules being of an exceedingly
fine
of them, zebra stripes across the legs.
they were thoroughly domesticated, and
followed their masters to and fro like dogs.
The
huts
improved
in
appearance as we neared Tung-chow,
234
and the
were more robust-looking, although even
villagers, too,
best of these, in spite of their willow-shaded dwellings and
the
their harvest-fields, betrayed evidences of a hard-struggling,
hand-
to-mouth existence.
was not
It
the afternoon of the fourth day that
till
Tung-chow, though we made but another

where we saw a poor conjuror perform
would make
greatest
trick
gold
coin.
cash
in
fingers
arms were
His
palm
over
them.
it
hand,
He
placed
by the
he
quite
bare,
and having taken
me
his
to close the
and
feasted
the greedy eyes
on what looked extremely
boy
whom
of his
like glittering gold.
he had with him, by plunging
The youth became suddenly
pale,
he solicited patronage with the other.
which
feat
his
seemed
then jumping up again, removed the knife with one
while
one
yet
Then, passing a wand above the clenched

again
also killed a small
expire,
few cash that
And
stage.
hand, he permitted
of his
a knife into his body.

to
tricks for a
London
was transforming three copper cash into
all
the
admirers
rustic
He
of
opened
he
fist,
on
fortune
his
we reached
halt to visit a village fair,
this conjuror
square
centre,
cloth
between
flat
upon the ground, and taking
his forefinger
waved the wand with the other
cloth, disclosed a
There was
performed with wonderful dexterity.
it
and thumb, with one hand,

and, gradually raising the
huge vase brimful of pure water beneath
it.
At Tung-chow our boat was boarded by at least a dozen

coolies eager to carry our baggage
One of them incautiously
lifted a trunk and was making off with it, when he was suddenly
relieved of the burden by Tao and hurled pell-mell into the
water.
This summary procedure on the part of my Tientsin
man
been
could
almost cost him his

torn
come
out
to
at
the
the
much venerated
tail,
for
it
had nearly
roots by the infuriated coolies before
rescue.
Here we engaged
carts
for the
EhiitiMi
CHINESE COOLIES.
COLLECTOR OF PRINTED SCRAPS.
UNIVERSITY
TUNG CHOW.
These
metropolis.
railway
being
is
from
built
passenger
the
allow
to
conveyance
the
with
vehicles,
may seem
what
only
what
over
what
in
one
at
Mongolian causeway.
time
to relate
still
way.
which
may be allowed
am describing
Soon we were
experienced.
carts plunging
the
into his
least a part of the
have
him that
remind
to
saw and
actually
Tung-chow,
entering
us
here
packed
carefully
strange to a European reader, and
therefore,
so constructed
down, and used only on a
sit
determined to walk at
if
as for me, not liking the look of
but
straw,
There may be passages

perhaps,
to
Tao had himself
perfectly level road.
Notwith-
Tientsin to Peking.
standing this they might be comfortable enough

as
substitutes
and omnibuses, but they have no springs.
for our railways, cabs
imperial-highway
the
are
carts
235
and lumbering behind
had been a massively constructed
Gallantly the carters struggled on beneath
an ancient archway, when suddenly the thoroughfare was found
jammed by
and
Straightway the
stone.
carters,
was
half
full
that
Works can
tours
air
fast
hour
drawn by
among
their
before
distinguished
progress obstructed, and
of inspection.
the
to
One may now

carried
few moderate-sized stone walls thrown
traffic
travel
Taku
to
serious impe-
on a well-constructed railway from a station
forts,
Peking.
we had ample
more
than the existing dilapidated pavement.
to Tientsin.
The
were imported during the war.

itants,
it
hardly have ventured so far as Tung-chow on their
adjoining the
be
team of mules
we managed to pass. I should

members of the Peking Board of
across the street there could scarcely prove
diments
the broken blocks of
re-echoed with the execrations of a
who found
an
the
cart
had stuck
that
hundred
think
laden
heavily
donkeys,
leisure
rails
As
This
line will eventually
and plant
for the
to inspect
for the extension
town and
its
them before the
inhabcarts
236
had
struggled
The
of their streets.
clear
shop-fronts were of
quite different from what one sees in the
carved wood,
richly
south, but seemingly stained with the accumulated dust of ages.
Even outside Tung-chow

consequence
in
previous
so
night,
took refuge in the
and
placed
the
road,
that
driver smelt of sam-shu
such implicit trust

he
in his
an
These inns
inn.
frequent
at
jaded beast and
supply
intervals
some respects of those
narrow
news
latest
it
its
burden from the
man and
for
a halt
beast,
and
along that road, reminding one in
with
Along the
dwarf-table
seated round
on
in
own
our
land.
long low wall, whitewashed and inscribed
characters
achieved."
felicity
garlic,
fairly
similar old-fashioned wayside resting-places
this inn ran a
huge black
in
and
once
At length we made
food
which are now dying out rapidly

Outside
that,
he might as well do
off his perch, that

his
and mud-pools of the way.
pitfalls
mule
asleep on the shaft, and had to be reminded
fell
by a shove
frequently
occur
had no further choice, and perforce
My
cart.
something to extricate
at
the roads were knee-deep in mud,
the heavy rain which had fallen during the
of
the
sign
or motto, " Perpetual
entire front of the establishment a
had been
set
and groups of
up,
travellers
discussed reeking bowls of soup or tea, and the
from the
capital.
Their cattle they had already
made over to the care of hangers-on at the inn.

Tao and my Hainan men had gone on ahead, but
stopped
here and partook of a diner a la Ckinoise, which was served up
me
to
table
for
into
the
in
bedroom.
and a
table,
which
it
As
was covered with a surface formation of
dirt,
could
dinner here supplied

inn.
The
This apartment contained nothing save
and a bed or kang made of bricks.
chair,
like
cheese.
me was
the best
cut
But
I
must say that the
ever tasted at a Chinese
viands were stewed mutton cut up into small pieces,
THE GREAT BELL, PEKING.
NATIVE PLOUGH.
<fv^
OV'TH-
tJNIVEB
PEKING.
an omelette, grapes and
rice,
used as a stable
frame
and
and
its
The room had
tea.
window
237
covered with paper,
originally
wooden
was now festooned
Another long detour
with dusty spiders'-webs.
recently been
in with a small
filled
at length
brought
us to the Chi-ho gate of the Tartar city.
we
Before
enter
stands, as
and
sea,
we have
at
the
made up
of two towns
two
wall
supposed
divisions
were parted from each other by a second,
the true natives of the
to
by a wall more
At the time of the Manchu conquest
than twenty miles round.
inner
It
down to the
Tartar or Manchu
quarter, and a Chinese settlement joined together
these
more general
which we have now arrived.
already seen, on a plain sloping
indeed
is
city
some of
over
run
will
of the
characteristics
be friendly to the
soil,
new
within a narrow space to the south
encamped around the Imperial palace
at least
dynasty,
those of them
being confined
while the Tartar

in the
northern
army was
city,
which
covers a square space of double the area of the Chinese town.

In so far as the features
Peking
is
the
same to-day
descendants of Kublai
the
There are
with
nine
in the
still
the permanent
it
was over 200 years ago, when

the Imperial throne.
Tartar city the same high walls pierced

the
same towers and moats and

is still surrounded by
and within, the palace
Manchu
garrison, like that
most of the provincial
The army was
have just described are concerned,
Khan mounted
double gateways;
fortified positions
in
as
which was established
capitals of China.
originally divided into four corps, distinguished
red,
yellow and blue banners under which they
respectively fought.
Four bordered banners of the same colours
by
the
white,
were subsequently added, and eight corps of Mongols and an
number of Chinese adherents were created at a later date.

Each corps of Manchu bannermen possesses, or rather is supequal
238
posed
possess,
to
the Imperial city
to
which
proprietors
their
changed the stern

to
their
originally allotted to
within
it
and before the cottage doorways one may
square paper lamps, whose colours denote the banners
see
still
ground as
its
own
belong.
respectively
But time has
under which the Chinese were confined
rules
Their superior industry and their slowly
quarter.
but surely accumulating wealth have gradually
made them masters
of the Tartar warriors, and of their allotments within the sacred
and commercial energy have conquered
In fact, Chinese thrift
city.
the descendants of the doughty
Manchus who drove the Mings
from the throne.

can
It
hardly
be
credited
by the
stranger
who
visits
Chinese centre of the universe, that the miserable beings
he
sees
clad
acting as
in
sheep-skins
watchmen
out
this
whom
of the Imperial bounty, and
to the prosperous Chinese, are in reality the
remnants of those noble nomads who were at one time a terror

to
Western Europe, and
at a later date the
conquerors of the
"Central Flowery Land."
of
The old walls of

human industry.
at the
feet.
Their base
alas
them
bygone
about as
and
their height also averages forty
the
modern
practically
age.
of warfare
have
nothing more than interesting
relics
to the Imperial throne within.
to the great tower above the gateway,

;
us
all
after
yet the
little
only a
boards, threatening
arts
wooden stockade would now-a-days be

protection
to be well defended, however.
with guns
monuments
sixty feet wide, their breadth
feet,
effective
They seem
is
time and
top about forty

But,
rendered
of
the great city are truly wonderful
field-glass of
mock
sham
artillery,
Casting our eyes up
we can
see that
modern science
it
bristles
reveals to
painted muzzles on painted
terrors through the countless embrasures.
few rusty, dismantled cannon
lie
here and there beneath the
Gateway
in
Imperial Palace Wall, Peking.
Ol
IK
THK
^
'
UNIVERSITY
i^calii-orH\^
PEKING.
239
The moats have
gateway, but everything looks out of repair.
become long shallow

is
lagoons, and yonder a train of 100 camels
wading calmly through one into the city. The Government

know all this, and have turned their attention to the
probably
defence
of
coast
the
and frontiers
line
in the
hope perhaps
that a foreign foe will never again be able to flounder over the
broken highways, and bring warfare to the palace door.

delusion
sad
China
unless
truly,
modern
lessons of
How
of
work
in
our European arsenals.

wêalth
and
armaments
but
where
collision with a foreign
.f*
for
may never become
rulers
to place these in
the hands of untrained
ancient policy of
exclusiveness
justified
But
great
dark
admitted
be readily
will
by recent
let
so
fatal
that
this
and
archway,
mighty crowd
we betake
at the portal.
wake of
mines not
streams,
for the
so utterly
we
new
will
blinded as
troops to defend the

to progress in
forecast has
China.
been
fully
us hasten our steps and enter the gate to behold this
metropolis.
on duty
As
themselves,
events.
far
But after
is
pressing on towards the
ourselves
feeling sure that our passports will
in the
In the event
Power, what good end would the
weapons which they are manufacturing

hope that the
out
upon
she find the genius to
will
(Written in 1872.)
hasty purchase of iron-clads and arms secure?
It
distilled
blood, sinews and sweat of long-suffering labour
the
use her weapons to advantage

of
at
She may squander
can she do this?
fleets
is
vain
and to keep pace with the
battle-fields,
ever-progressive science that
prepared to take to heart the
is
again
to
our carts,
be examined by the guards
all
we pass through unnoticed
a train of camels, laden with fuel from the coal-
off".
made up
There
is
a great noise and confusion.
Two
of carts, camels, mules, donkeys and citizens,
have met beneath the arch, and are struggling out of the dark-
240
ness
end.
either
at
far the widest
Within
there
encountered
in
the great roads of London.
as
can
boast
centre
of
of
vehicles
advantage
this
the
road,
and
The causeway
pass abreast.
to
by material which
in repair
in the
highway
after
Peking
down
middle
the
kept
is
deep trenches
coolies ladle out of the
mud-holes to be seen on either side of
or
this part of the
streets of
broad enough to allow two
only
is
main
All the
and as roomy
city,
but the cartway runs
by
a wide thoroughfare,
is
any Chinese
Citizens using
it.
dark are occasionally drowned
in
way
when I was in Peking, so that I never felt altogether safe when
riding through the streets at night
while in the morning, when
the dutiful servants of the Board of Works were flourishing their
these
Thus one
sloughs.
old
woman met
her end in this
one had to face the insalubrious odours of the putrid
ladles,
mud and
at
mid-day again, more especially
dry, the dust
have
was so thick
supplied
that
if
washed
the weather was
my
towards
contribution
valuable
when
beard
could
the repairs of
the road.
Notwithstanding
the
Along each
esting.
if
there were no dust-clouds to obstruct
stalls
has
been
everything under the Chinese sun
is
set
up,
the
actual
is
road.
the reader
It
may
nese,
for
to trade
streets.
In both cities they
me.
the Tartars, even
and
if
Then
out-
and beyond them
which form the boundaries of the
a complicated picture, and
not lose himself, as
amid the maze of

for
shops,
and there almost
to be obtained.
side these stalls, again, there are the footpaths
we come upon
inter-
highway an interminable
side of the central
and
booths
of
line
all this,
Peking streets are highly picturesque and
the
sight,
The shops had

are almost
if
only hope that
have done more than once,

a great fascination
always owned by Chi-
they have money, are too proud
they have none, as
is
most frequently the
case.
PEKING STREETS.
they possess neither
The
start.
the
energy nor the ingenuity to make a
Chinese, on the other hand, will
on nothing
and some seem capable of
by patience and
until
thrift,
The shops
in
Many
fair
living.
of their fronts are elaborately carved,
and gilded; while as
the interiors, these are fitted
for
finished with an equally scrupulous care, the
tribe.
the wealth of the
way
could
evidences
discover
owners ready
and looking a supremely
for business inside, clothed in their silks,
contented
them trade
of
on nothing too,
Peking, both outside and within doors, are very
attractive objects.
up and
many
living
they ever have the ghost of a
if
chance, they manage to obtain a
painted
24
of distribution of
those shops which in any
official classes in all
supplied their wants, or ministered to their tastes.
other hand,
where
the
in
and misery were
signs of squalor
unwelcome and
uncared-for poor
when brought
apparent, perhaps,
On
the
apparent every;
all
the
more
face to face with the tokens of
wealth and refinement.
have not space to relate a tenth of what
rienced in this great capital

in the
how
winter mornings dead at
met going
its
its
gates
its
be seen crowding
and craving permission

shelter
fore
the
into
dawn.
sort
in
blast that
of that
youth
might be
herd,
and
Chinese paradise
for
the destitute were
ward already
would freeze
seems
filth
;
their hearts
at Peking, in
full,
be-
which
to be deposited
indeed, there
make one long

we had pictured
spot in the capital that does not
our
a cart
walls, so as to obtain
its
There are acres of hovels
Imperial bannermen
ghmpse
how
how
like tribute before the very palace gates
of casual
to stand inside
from the wintry
the
beheld or expe-
rounds to pick up the bodies of infants too young
to require the sacred rites of sepulture

to
naked beggars were found
is
hardly
for a single
to ourselves
the bright sky, the tea-fields, orange-groves

16
242
hedges
and
and
of jasmine,
for the lotus-lakes
filling
the air
with their perfume.
Next
to the shops, the footpaths in front of
most curious
many
rain,
to a foreigner.
pools
occur
them
In these paths, after a
pools which
it
are perhaps
shower of
impossible to cross
is
except by wading, unless one cares to imitate an old Pekingese

lady,
who
carried
pave
her
way over
in
London,
of
the
for
so
sale
so
Commercial Road
in the
in front of
the tents and
to monopolise at least two-thirds of the pave-
Peking, in yet greater numbers and variety,
in
the buyers and sellers occupy every dry spot.
can
only
through
get
stalls
while the shopkeepers spread out their wares
as
also
As
the puddles.
crowds congregate
hawkers,
ment,
two bricks with her wherever she went, to
the
press
Sometimes one
by brushing against the dry
dusty hides of a train of camels, as they are being unladen before
be
a coal-shed
and one must take
down, not to tread on
lying
care, should
their
huge
any of them
soft feet, for they
bite.
In another spot it may become nesome skittish mule, tethered in front of a
shop, has been removed by its leisurely master, who is smoking
can
inflict
savage
cessary to wait until
shopman
pipe with the
along,
beyond,
had to climb a
and finding that a
the
top
my
camera
But
in
of
fine
set
up
was
there
available
good-natured
plank
clear view could
spot
minutes,
which
before
sudden
my way
to reach the path
be obtained from
traffic
plate,
stood,
the
was taken
had
photograph.
picture
transformation
of ground
spectators
on
threaded
and proceeded to take
was about to expose the

the
Once, as
wooden planks
shop on the other side of the road,
two or three
secured,
Every
inside.
pile of
of
could
the
be
scene.
up by eager but
was suspended
and just as
some ingenious youth displaced

and brought
me down
in
TRAVELLING COOK.
CHIROPODIST PEKING.
PEKING STALLS.
rapid, undignified descent,
Some
or
to the crowd.
immensely entertaining
mud
the booths close to the foot-way are built of
of
and would indeed become permanent structures, but

occupants may be ordered at any moment to clear
brick,
their
that
243
them away, so as to make room for the progress of the EmFor I must tell you that whenever the Sovereign is
peror.
carried abroad, outside his own palace walls, the roads must be
cleared,
and even
offended
with
capital.
After
boon
his
eyes
sacred
obstructions
roadside
these
stand,
may
passed by, booths, tents and
has
he
and commerce and confusion resume
re-erected,
matters
that
cleaned,
not be
glimpse at the true condition of his splendid
are
As
are
Anything can be bought
to the people.
stalls
their sway.
really a great
at the stalls,
their owners are neither slow nor silent in advertising the
one a butcher and a baker combine
At
mer
sells
mutton cut to
his
suit
to
for-
all
the bones and refuse
savoury pies before a hungry
cook who manufactures
the
The
taste of his customers,
the
while at the same time he disposes of
their crafts.
and
fact.
crowd of lookers-on.
Twirling his rolling-pin on his board, he
shrieks out in a
key a
Jewels,
there
shrill
too, of
are
peep-shows, jugglers,
story-tellers;
strummings
list
the
of
of the delicacies he has prepared.
no mean value, are on
latter
lute,
accompanying
while
sale here as well,
and
lottery-men, ballad-singers and
their
their recitations with the
audience
sits
round a long
table and listens with rapt attention to the dramatic renderings
of their poets.
The
story-teller,
to contend against, and of
all
perhaps the most formidable

a wide
celebrity
with a rhyme to
highest
bidder.
for
suit
their
however, has
many
tribe.
These old-clothes-men enjoy
humorous
stories,
and
the garments as they offer
Each coat
is
competitors
his rivals the old-clothes-men are
will
run off
them
to the
thus invested with a miraculous
244
which gives
history,
its
at
it
once a speculative value.
If
"
heat-producing powers are eloquently described.

which,
fur
during the year of the great
of that illustrious family Chang.

the people were mute.
hung from
feeling,
Men
so
the
foregoing
How much
his blood.
to
they
and
this coat,
say you for
fell
off.
but as for
brought
it
The
etc.
it.i^"
rendering of the language actually used by one
is
heads
their
and died by thousands
streets
Chang of honoured memory, he put on
summer
saved the head
frost,
cold was so intense that
they spoke, their words froze and
when they shook
that
to
fur,
this
Men's ears congealed and were devoid of
their lips.
froze
When
The
be
was
it
It
of these sellers of unredeemed pledges.
saw two or three men who were driving a trade
pictures
and foreign stereoscopic photographs, some
most refined
style of art
and as
peep-shows
for the
magic
in
not the
in
well,
the
one says about them the better; they certainly would not
less
be tolerated
any public thoroughfare
in
in
The
Europe.
original
Punch and Judy is also to be encountered in the Peking streets;

puppets worked by the hands of a hidden operator, on just the
same plan
as with us.
At
night, too,
have frequently seen a
most ingenious shadow pantomime, contrived by projecting small

movable
figures
behind.
Capital clay images
stalls;
place
the
tiny
many
I
are sold for a
at
some
of the
things
of the
at
them
hit off
Tientsin.
At
that
mere song, which are by
kind
ever saw.
perfect representations of Chinese
of
wonderfully
If
reached such perfection as

figures
cleverest
only most
but
from
brilliant light
may be purchased
but in no part of China has this art of making coloured
figures
clay
on to a thin screen, under a
humorous
far
These are not
men and women,
characteristics with the
most
artistic fidelity.
go rambling on
in this
way over
the city,
we
shall
never
1-1
ri
OF TUK
T"
^y
UNIVERSITY
Of
PEKING PEEP-SHOW.
i&ii^kAdi
r<^
OK
COREANS.
245
reach the hotel, nor receive that welcome which was so warmly
accorded to me by Monsieur Thomas, the proprietor. Thomas

was not the cleanest man in the world, but he was extremely
There was, however, about his
polite, which was something.
costume a painful lack of buttons, and its appearance might
perhaps have been improved by the addition of a waistcoat, and
the absence of the grease that
by
up
gling
to reach his hair, but
and even
His hands,
his face,
seemed
in
and he remarked, when
that there
was nothing
Had he
But then he was a
was
it
chiefly built of
mud.
sticky,
felt
Fortunately
paid
of the
Corea
The
city.
This, as
be.?
and so did the
discovered a quantity
found out next morning,
by a
plague-stricken
gentleman who,
escaped an attack of the malady.
It
was customary before the war
they
at
dwelt
King of
for the
embassy of tribute-bearers
detachment of the embassy had
Legation
which
it
a visit to the Corean Legation in the Tartar quarter
quitted the capital.
the
as
to send an annual
first
could
indeed, was mat-
previously, had nearly died of small-pox in this very
some days
there
left
artist
cookery
a close, nasty smell, too, pervaded the whole
of mouldy, foreign apparel.
room.
How
floor,
apartment, and on looking into a closet,
been
an
either of
truth.
The mud
ted over, but the white-washed walls
had
this head,
confessed to a great deal of that stimulant,
was not a comfortable one.
bed and curtains
him on
on a chef-cfceuvre,
he would have been much nearer the
My bedroom
flattered
like a little eau-de-vie to enable
to put the finishing touches
or painting.
at its destination.
prospect of our coming, had
been hastily though imperfectly washed.

cook, too
have been strug-
to
had not arrived
to Peking.
just arrived before
There were but a few members present
the
time
were
so
of
my
visit,
and the apartments
scrupulously
clean
that
at
in
almost
246
wished that
had
my
left
shoes at the doorway, in
soiUng the white straw mats.

with
ed
almost entirely of white.

that
secured an
more
also
their
but
illustration,
my
and
Thomas
but
Legation,
were
however,
was on that account
it
Wall,
invited
kindly
all
the
unfortunate
some
in
bought a Mongolian pony to save
me
me
and a saddle and bridle were kindly

the
brute
to stay at the
was
in his
house,
he proved thor-
respects,
oughly honest, and did his best to make
city,
B. M.'s Minister,
me
had promised Thomas to remain
although
but
difficulty,
Ming tombs, H.
return from the
Sir
late
fear of
which
garments,
was with great
It
my
most favourably impress-
prized.
After
the
of
purity
spotless
the
was
comfortable.
time
in
lent to
exploring the
me by
a friend
large-boned, large-headed animal with a
great round belly, over which, for want of a crupper, the saddle-
were always
girths
at least,
it
sliding.
It
had, too, an enormous appetite,
groom whom I employed. The first night

bed, and when I examined it in the morning
so said the
consumed
its
to be hungry
it
seemed
it
was tethered, and had, besides
for
it
had barked the tree to which
this,
worth of millet-bran, and so
lings'
I
still,
devoured about
forth.
five shil-
soon found out that
was being fleeced by the stable-boy, who had a pony of

in the next house, and had determined to feed it at
own
his
my
expense.
The Pekingese have a strange mode of shoeing their horses.

They pull three feet together with cords, and leave the hoof
that is to be shod, free. Then they sling the animal bodily up
between
two
posts,
and so complete the task
in
comfort and
safety.
In
the plan of the city of Peking there
careful design,
and
this
is
every evidence of
has been carried out minutely, from the
bo
Cm
o
S
JO
Si
UNIVERSITY
THE TEMPLE OF HEAVEN.

buildings of the palace to the outermost wall of
central
The ground-plan
cation.
respects
ground-plans
the
with
identical
So much
and arrangement of
style
Imperial buildings
of the
and tombs of the country.

the
247
is
fortifi-
in
most
of the great temples
alike are they,
even
in
their edifices, that a palace, with
scarcely any alteration, might be at once converted into a Bud-
we
Thus
temple.
dhist
find
Lamasary of the Mongols

was
one
at
The
Kang-hi.
the
chief
residence
of the
halls
on the
stands
city wall
are
Chien-men to Prospect
proached by a
Yung-ho-Kung
palace
three in number, extending from
and
Hill,
in
every instance are ap-
each
while the temple and domestic archi-
is
based upon the same
plan.
In the latter case there are three courts, divided
other
by
about
the
the
outer
we may
when one
if
their lofty roofs
The like order prevails at the Ming

an equal number of halls, with a triple
finds
in front of
halls,
city,
son and successor of
Imperial
throughout the north of China
tecture
Great
gateway.
triple
There one
tombs.
doorway
the
of the
from the glimpse one gets of
judge
the
time
that
the north-east quarter of the
in
from each
apartments of the domestics being ranged

while
courts,
the
innermost of the three
is
devoted to family use.

It
is
interesting to observe the evidences which crop
Thus
and
nine.
wall
of the
three,
and
proached,
the
its
rest
the
three or
sacred
even by
its
his
is
its
the
gates
with which
highest officers, after three times three

of Heaven, too, in the Chinese city,
roof, the triple terraces of its
mystic
multiples.
the outer
pierced form together a multiple of
person of the Emperor can only be ap-
The Temple
triple
of
Peking,
at
Tartar city
prostrations.
with
up every-
showing the universal sacredness of the numbers three
where,
marble
altars
and
symbolism throughout, points either
to
248
The Rev. Joseph Edkins
was,
beUeve,
the
to the symbolical architecture of the
attention
draw
to
first
Temple of Hea-
ven, and to the importance which the Chinese themselves attach
open
southern
the
to
religious structures.
makes
himself
known
"Hill
proached
first
cut
simple
repairs
On
by a
at
hills,
one
of
is
rude unhewn stone, ap-
of eighteen steps, and finally by three
flight
This altar
reputed to
is
the Governor-General of the province
it
seasons of the year as the representative of
certain
Emperor,
Foochow, on
the top of the former there
erection
into the face of the rock.
be very ancient, and to
the
Emperor
and the other as Kui-shen-shan, or the
the Nine Genii."

altar
In the city of
walled enclosure, are two
the
as Wu-shih-shan,
of
steps,
of
side
an open
Chinese
all
solstice, the
burnt-offerings, just as the patriarchs did of old,
southern
the
most sacred of
as the
supreme Lord of Heaven.
the
to
altar,
There, at the winter
and there
up burnt-sacrifices
offers
to heaven.
In this granite table, covered with a simple square stone vessel
with ashes,
filled
we have
the sacrificial altar in what
is
The southern altar

wonderful resemblance to Mount Meru, the
most ancient Chinese form.
its
bears
the Buddhist universe, round which
supposed to move
stars arranged
to the Chinese
The
out
and there we
all
around the second terrace of the
altar,
nearly
run
direct
to
distant
from
it
according
north
to
palace-gates,
on
and lanes
The sacred
it,
is
laid
purple city
the centre, and there are three main streets,
in
from
the
moon and
system of astronomy.
city of Peking, or rather the Tartar portion of
stands
Peking
centre of
the heavenly bodies are
find tablets of sun,
with an almost perfect symmetry.
which
fares
probably
at
south.
One
of these streets leads
and the other two are nearly equi-
either side; while myriads of
intersect
one
minor thorough-
another in the spaces between,
ARCHITECTURE
249
but are always either parallel with or at right angles to the three
main
palace
scene
never
Temple
of Heaven,
Catholic Cathedral and the official yamens, the houses
above the low, modest, uniform
rise
them by
sents
the Buddhist shrines, the
buildings,
Roman
the
Viewed from any stand-point on the outer wall,

With the exception of the
is disappointing.
roads.
whole
the
Much,
law.
the gaze.
to
itself
too, that
level prescribed for
ruinous and dilapidated pre-
is
Here and there we see open spaces
and green trees that shade the buildings of the rich; but again
the eye wearies of its wanderings over hundreds of acres of
tiles
and walls
all
of one stereotyped pattern, and cannot help
noticing that the isolation of the Chinese begins with the family
unit at
There stands the sacred dwelling of the mighty
home.
Emperor, walled round and round
his
person protected from the
gaze of the outer world by countless courts and "halls of sacred
harmony"; and one can note the same exclusiveness

out in all the dwellings of his people. Each residence is
ed
in
access
a
to
of
wall
sanctity
may
of
own, and a
single outer entrance gives
and reception-rooms, beyond which the most
courts
favoured guest
the
its
not intrude to violate by his mere presence
the
There
domicile.
thousands of houses and hovels where

observed,
be
where
but
the
air
These,
if
fugitive covering of
carried
ludicrous were
I
had
manage
to
by investing themselves with
they be Manchus, are proud at any
rate of their sheepskin coats; or
still
of course, tens of
arrangement cannot
of self-importance, which the very street beggars never
wholly lay aside.
is
are,
this
people, nevertheless,
sustain a sort of dignified isolation
an
carried
enclos-
the
mud, which
if
is
they be not, then the more

all
that hides their nakedness,
with a sort of stolid solemnity which would be

it
not for their misfortunes.
good fortune while
in
the metropolis to be intro-
250
duced by Dr. Martin, President of the Imperial Tungwen College, to Prince Kung and the other distinguished members of
Government
the Chinese
my
and they wisely availed themselves of
presence to have their portraits taken
is
He
several
holds
in
particular
Tsungli-yamen,
my readers
Emperor Hien-fung.
a younger brother of the late
are aware,
and
at the
Prince Kung, as most of
or Chinese Foreign Office.
high
appointments, military as well as
he
is
member
civil,
Supreme Council
of the
department of the State which most nearly resembles the Cabinet in our own constitution. He has been for over a quarter
century Chief Minister of Foreign Affairs and Chancellor
of
ot
the Empire.
him,
quick
in
He
is,
man esteemed by
too, a
all
who know
apprehension, comparatively Uberal in his views,
and regarded by some
head of that small party of politi-
as the
who favour progress in China.

The creation of the Tsungli-yamen,
cians
one of the important

the Treaty of Tientsin.
Up
or Foreign Board, was
which followed the
results
to that time
all
of
ratification
foreign diplomatic
correspondence had been carried on through the Colonial Office,

where the great Powers were practically placed on a level with
the
next
professors
European
This yamen
Asian dependencies of the Empire.
Central
stands
to
is
Imperial
the
now employed
languages,
College,
where a
in instructing
literature
staff of foreign
Chinese students
and science.
in
Accompanied by
one of these professors, who kindly undertook to be my interpreter, I found myself one morning entering a low narrow
doorway through a dead
number of
and
at
after
courts,
passing
After making our
wall.
studded with
down dingy
way along
rockeries, flowers
and ponds,
corridors in dismal disrepair,
we
length stood beneath the shade of an old tree, and in front
of the picturesque, but purely Chinese-looking, audience-chamber.
MILITARY MANDARIN.
OF THB
UNIVERSITY
Of cal iFOR^
PRINCE KUNG AND MINISTERS.

wherein
numbers of the human race are
of vast
interests
the
25
from time to time discussed. We had barely time to glance at

the painted pillars, the curved roofs and carved windows, when
a
from behind a bamboo screen that
noble issued
venerable
concealed a narrow doorway, and accorded us a quiet, courteous
welcome.
The
Prince himself had not arrived; but Wen-siang, Paou-keun
and Shen-kwe-fen, members,
all
of them, at that time, of the Grand
Wen-siang was well known
Council, were already in attendance.
diplomatic
circles
as
statesman
powers of a high order, and

of his age.
sentations
It
endowed with
in
intellectual
one of the foremost ministers
as
said of him, that, in reply to the urgent repre-
is
of a foreigner
who was clamouring
for
Chinese pro-
he delivered himself of the following prophecy, which has

"
yet, however, been fulfilled Give China time, and her
gress,
not
progress
much
will
be both rapid and overwhelming
so, that
those
who were foremost
in its
may be looming
star
whose
light is travelling
through the immeasurable regions
of space, but has not yet reached our
had her ages of

tell
us that she
and bronze
flint
is
own
sphere.
China has
and her vast mineral resources
yet destined to enter upon
an age of coal and
in
so
some unknown
the far-off distance, like
in
This transforma-
gress will be sighing for the good old times."

tion
resuhs
with the plea for pro-
all
that
is
implied
iron.
and Paou-keun are Manchus, while Shen-kweone of the Chinese members of the Grand Council of
Wen-siang
fen
is
State.
Cheng-lin,
Tung-sean
and Maou-cheng-he,
Foreign Board were also present.
many
valuable
works.
northern China, was
One
Tung-sean
of these,
in the press at the
mmisters
is
of the
the author of
on the hydrography of
time of
my
visit;
and.
252
as the reader will have gathered from

dations, his treatise
suggestions,
its
broken
The
ministers
blue
black
in
can
is
rather
be carried out.
will,
boast.
at the waist
satin,
open
collars of pale
neck to the shoulders, and
the
costume was extremely
This
of far greater importance, the ministers,
were as
them,
of
Cabinet
band
boots.
satin
picturesque, and what
most
by
down from
tapering
silk
thick-soled
or
can,
wore simple robes of variously-coloured
and caught
front
in
account of the inun-
draining the country and restoring
any, for
if
embankments
the
my
Hkely to be of great value, provided that
is
men
fine-looking
All of
them had an
as
air
own
our
ever
of quiet, dignified
repose.
The
arrival
Kung on
of Prince
eral conversation.
The
Prince
the scene cut short our gen-
for
a few minutes kept
pleasant talk, enquiring about
my
and manifesting considerable
interest
He
a likeness.
frame
man
in the
process of taking
members
me
so favourably
of the Cabinet; yet he had
what phrenologists would describe as a splendid head.

sion
of
with
his face,
As
resolution.
sullen
whether he
when
I
in
repose,
looked upon him,
wondered
the ministers around, in guiding the destinies of so
human
race
state of the
Empire and
its
floods
in
their
time.
Foreign war,
and the rapacity of
land,
have
upon the present
people.
These men have had many and great

against
many
or whether he and his distinguished
colleagues were able to look with complacency
the
His eyes
wore an expres-
the burden of the responsibility which he shared
felt
millions of the
in a
of middle stature, and of rather slender
that of the other
were penetrating, and
me
and about photography,
his appearance, indeed, did not impress
did
as
is
travels
difficulties to
civil
contend
insurrection, famine,
their officials in different quarters of
done much
to
weaken the
prestige and
power
MEMBERS OF THE TSUNGLI YAMEN, PEKING.
THE CHONG-UN DEGREE.

of
central
great
the
properly
be
never
China,
of
portions
kingdom
Government
felt
until
and her authority now can
and acknowledged
in the
more
distant
province of that vast
remotest
each
253
have been united to Peking by railways and by
shall
a network of telegraphic nerves.
Perhaps the most grave and distinguished-looking
now
the group
before
me was
Maou-cheng-he.
had won him the highest post of
arly attainments
member
of
This man's scholliterary fame,
and formerly he had been chief judge of the metropolitan
liter-
ary examinations.
Extraordinary
is
the
literary championship,
or Han-lin degree, which
At the
triennial
district,
in the
His family
been
is
of
1871
Kwang-tung province,
by
the
Chinese
attach to
conferred by the Peking examiners.
examination
name was Leung.
obtained
before,
honour which
and to the achievement of the Chong-iin
Now
man from Shun-kak
carried off the Chong-iin.
this literary distinction
Kwang-tung scholar some
and he was the
first
who achieved
had
half a century
that success during
Thus the new victory of their own

candidate was hailed by the men of Kwang-tung as a great
It was reported, however, that Mr. Leung had
historical event.
period
after
all
of
years.
obtained the honour by a lucky "fluke."
position
which was to decide
says
all,
in
As one
of a
chosen scholars of the Empire, he produced the com-
of
triad
200
his claims.
There were nine
es-
and these, when they had been submitted to the
Han-lin examiners, were sent by them to the Empress
Dowager
Emperor being under age) to have their own award forThe work of greatest merit was placed uppermally confirmed.
but the old lady, who had an imperial will of her own,
most
(the
felt
anxious to thwart the decision of the learned pundits and,
as chance
would have
it,
the sunlight
fell
on the chosen manu-
254
and she discovered a
script,
flaw, a thinness in the paper, indi-
cating a place in the composition where one character had been
The Empress
erased and another substituted.
Leung the
rated the
exam-
such slovenly work to pass, and proclaimed
allowing
for
iners
The
victor.
superstitious Cantonese declared that
was a divine choice, that the sunbeam was a messenger sent
Heaven
point out the blemish in the essay at
to
first
it
by-
selected
for the prize.
Leung reached Canton
Mr.
there
by the
who bore
families
All
the
also
means
May, 1872, and was received
in
local authorities with the highest possible honours.
to afford
name
the
of
Leung (and who had

money
paid the Chong-iin large sums of
it)
to be permitted to
ancestral hall.
By
this
to relationship
and
come and worship at his

means they established a spurious claim
as soon as the
ceremony was
above the entrances of
An
Chong-iin.
their
were allowed
over,
own
to place tablets
halls inscribed with
the
title
uncle of the successful wrangler, uniting an exalted
sense of his duty to his family with a laudable desire to repair

his
own
his
deputy before
fortune,
honourable
thousand
his arrival, in visiting
service
dollars,
happy Chong-iin, and acted
forestalled the
obliging
this
and
his
sundry
relative
nephew,
at
times
as
For such
halls.
received a
the sake of the family
for
name, had to sanction the steps thus prematurely adopted to

spread his
of Mr.
that
fame abroad.
man
such a
is
To show
held by the Chinese,
Leung rented
the great esteem in which

I
may add
a house in Canton,
and
its
that a brother
owner hearing
he was the brother of the famous Chong-iin, made him a
free gift of the tenement.
After partaking
the
Cabinet,
interest,
we
and
of tea
after
with
one or two of the members of
some general
talk
rose and quitted the yamen.
on topics of
common
tfl
a
o
o
o
rt
r^
OF TH-B
THE CONFUCIAN TEMPLE.

I
255
must leave many of the temples and objects of
Peking undescribed,
my
as
aim
impression of the condition of the country and of
we
I
them now-a-days, than
find
and
The main gateway which
walled around.
enclosure
is
presented
is
and even houses,
shrines
palaces,
all
in
its
people as
minute
into
The Confucian Temple covers
importance.
like
enter
to
details.
a passing glance at a few places of
can therefore only cast
public
interest in
rather to convey a general
is
a wide area,
is
completely
leads into the sacred
the accompanying picture.
This gateway
approached, as were the ancient shrines of Greece and Rome,
through
avenue of venerable cypress trees
an
purely
the most
perhaps
forms
establishment
The
marble
sculptured
approach and the balustrading are of
triple
while
the
and other portions of the
pillars
gateway are of more perishable materials
ware and
brick.
centuries
back
back of a
with
inscribed
form
antiquity
either
this
was
set
left,
writing.
celebrated
the
stone
W.
in
drums,
2,000 years ago, in primi-
Thus these drums prove the
once of the poetry and of the character
at
many
supported upon the
up here when Marco Polo was
nearly
cut
stanzas,
the
to
stand
gate
that has been engraved.

S.
glazed earthen-
the successful Han-lin scholars for
Chinese
of
wood,
side are groves of marble tablets,
and that one
tortoise,
Within
China.
On
names of
bearing the
by Dr.
and the whole
Chinese architecture to be found among the ornaments
of the capital.
tive
imposing specimen of
which
in
These inscriptions have been translated
Bushell, the gentleman
who
has also discovered
the site of the famous city of Shang-tu, referred to by Coleridge

as
Xanadu, and spoken of by Marco Polo as the northern
of the
Yuen
dynasty.
The
tablet of China's chief sage
distinguished
followers.
capital
great hall within simply contains the
and those of twenty-two of
The
spirits
his
most
of the departed great are
2 56
supposed to reside
and hence annually,
in their tablets,
vernal and autumnal equinoxes, sheep and oxen

in
honoured shrine of
front of this
Close to
the Confucian
at the
in sacrifice
fall
literature.
Temple stands the Kwo-tze-keen,
or
National University; and there, ranged around the Pi-yung-kung,

Hall of the Classics, are 200 tablets of stone inscribed with
or
the complete text of the nine sacred books.
The Observatory has been

instruments
nomical
set
Here,
side of the Tartar city.
in
up on the wall on the eastern

addition to the colossal astro-
erected
by the
we
two other instruments
seventeenth century,
find
Jesuit missionaries in the
a court
in
made for themselves towards the close

century, when the Yuen dynasty was on the
some elements of European science may have
below, which the Chinese

of the
thirteenth
throne.
Possibly
been brought to bear on the construction of even these
ments
instru-
although the characters and divisions engraved on their
splendid
bronze
only
point
circles
the Chinese
to
method of
dividing the year, and to the state of Chinese astronomy at the
Yet
time.
at
Marco Polo must have been
about the
de
in
the north of China
period of their manufacture, or at any rate John
Carvino was there, for he, under Pope Clement V., became
bishop
of
Cambalu (Peking) about
1290 A. D., and perhaps,
with his numerous staff of priests, he introduced some knowledge

of Western
art.
The
late
Mr. Wylie (than
no better authority) was with
me when
whom
I
there was probably
examined these
instru-
ments, and was of opinion that they are Chinese, and that they
were produced by Ko-show-king, one of the most famous astron-
omers of China.
One
of
them
is
an astrolaba, furnished beneath
with a splendid sun-dial, which has long since lost
The
able
its
gnomon.
whole, indeed, consists of three astrolabse, one partly move-
and partly fixed
in the plane of the ecliptic
the second
fc/J
o
o
OV THK
'^
UNIVERSITY
LCALlfORt^
ASTRONOMICAL INSTRUMENTS.
turning on a centre as a meridian
muth
circle,
257
and the third the
azi-
circle.
The
instrument
other
instrument
This
which
the
is
beautiful
even
must,
The horizon
is
design.
then, have brought the art of
inscribed with the twelve cyclical
Chinese
which the
into
workmanship and
a marvellous specimen of the perfection to
Chinese
casting in bronze.
characters,
an armillary sphere, supported by
is
most
of
dragons,
chained
divide the day and night.
Outside the ring these characters appear again, paired with eight
characters of the denary cycle, and four
names of
the eight dia-
grams of the book of changes, denoting the points of the compass while the inside of the ring bears the names of the twelve
;
States
An
which China,
into
ancient
in
times,
was portioned
out.
equatorial circle, a double-ring ecliptic, an equinoctial colure
and
double-ring
The equator
while
quity;
colure
are
adjusted with the horizon ring.
engraved with constellations of unknown
is
the
ecliptic
is
marked
spaces, corresponding to the divisions of the year.
are
divided
each degree
than
is
All the circles
degrees, for the days of the year; while
into 365'
degree
anti-
off into twenty-four equal
subdivided into 100 parts, as for everything less

the centenary scale prevailed at that period.
take these instruments to be of great interest, as indicating the
of astronomical science in China at about the end of the
state
thirteenth century.
While
and
in
Peking
intelligent
made
natives,
one
the acquaintance of
of
whom
many educated
accompanied an English
physician and myself on an excursion to the ruins of the
Summer
With another gentleman, Mr. Yang, I became considerand in this way enjoyed some opportunity of
ably intimate
Palace.
seeing
the
dwellings
the capital. Both
my
and domestic
friends
life
of the upper classes in
were devoted to photography

17
but
258
not content with his triumphs in that branch of science,
Yang,
frequently carried his researches and experiments to a pitch that
caused the members of
savant
Chinese
Yang was
less in-
modern
and
good-natured
fat,
household no
a fine sample of the
his multitudinous
convenience than alarm.
contented;
inclined to take short cuts to scientific knowledge,
own incomplete and hap-hazard achievements
his
marvellously
China,
in
perfect
was
approached
the results of
house, like most others
His
intelligence.
much
but
and to esteem
through a lane hedged
in
by high
brick walls on either side, so that there was nothing to be seen

of
it
from without save the small doorway and a low brick parabout
tition
six
prevent
ed to
feet
the
beyond the threshold
the
latter intend-
ingress of the spirits of the dead.
Within
was the usual array of courts and halls, reached by narrow

vine-shaded corridors but each court was tastefully laid out with
there
rockeries, flowers, fish-ponds, bridges
and
pavilions.
Really the
place was very picturesque and admirably suited to the disposition

of a people affecting seclusion and the pleasures of family
who
(so far as the
women
of the world in which they
the walls of their
Here
own
are concerned)
too
little
life
and
or nothing
beyond what they gather within
live,
abode.
was, then, admitted at
last into
of the mysterious Chinese dwelling.

teur, not
know
Its
the sacred precincts
proprietor was an ama-
merely of photography, but of chemistry and electricity
and he had a laboratory
fitted
up
in
the ladies
'
quarter.
In one corner of this laboratory stood a black carved bedstead,
curtained
with
silk
and pillowed with wood
while a carved
bench, also of black wood, supported a heterogeneous collection

of instruments,
Chinese
chemical,
electrical
and European books.
The
and photographic, besides

walls
were garnished with
enlarged photographs of Yang's family and friends.
In a small
MANXHL- TARTAR LADY.
MANCHU LAUV AND
MAID.
OF THE
UNIVERSITY
CHINESE LADIES AT HOME.
259
outer court care had been taken to supply a fowl-house with a
steam saw-mill, with which the owner had achieved wonders
in
the short space of a single day.
The machine,
indeed, had never enjoyed but that one chance
of distinguishing
the Pekingese, disturbed
for
itself;
by the whirr
of the engine, scaled the walls with ladders, clustered on to the
There, then, stood the motionless
dertaking.
abandon
startled proprietor to
and compelled the
roofs
mill,
his un-
with one or
two dejected fowls perched upon its cylinder a monster whom

long familiarity had taught even the poultry to despise. I saw
the ladies several times while I was teaching my friend how to
concoct nitrate of
silver
and other photographic chemicals. Some
women were handsome, and
these
of
satins;
for her
so,
good works among the
insight into the daily
Many
Chinese
gossiping,
my
were dressed
or
singly
deser-
natives, wall give further
of the Pekingese ladies.
smoking and gambling
either
in rich
received from an
spend a great portion of their time
ladies
readers will exclaim
fair
taken
life
who was much esteemed, and
English lady (Mrs. Edkins),
vedly
all
but the following information which
very
in
unlady-like occupations
nevertheless, these accomplishments,
collectively,
require years of assiduous
training before they can be practised with that perfection which

prevails in polite circles in China.
by
ted,
is
but
cold
far
the
comfort
most favourite
to
reflect
that
Gambling,
it
is
pastime, and
this vice
is
to be regretit
is
perhaps
not monopolised
by the ladies of Cathay, but that it is their lords who set

them the example. They never dream of playing except for
money and when they have no visitors of their own rank
;
to
gamble with, they
Poorer
to
women meet
squander
call
up the domestics and play with them.
at
some gaming den, and there manage

sums of money; thus affording their
considerable
260
devoted husbands
at
be discharged which
the
end of the
they
are
when debts must
year,
unable
pay, an excuse for
to
committing suicide.
The married
lady
rises
and
early,
sees that tea
first
pre-
is
pared for her husband, as well as some hot water for his morning
The same
bath
she
for
As
by
is
attention
always present,
also exacted
is
by the mother-in-law
guardian angel of her son.
like the
a rule, however, the mother-in-law
not held to be an angel
is
the wife, who, during the lifetime of her husband's mother,
be
has to
relate
very drudge
the house.
in
about with shoes down at heel
fly
not small feet
have
dressed
that
en
to
who
the Tartars do,
and shouting out
In short, a general uproar
many Chinese households
in
is,
deshabille^
their orders to the domestic slaves.
prevails
may be unkind
It
but the truth must be told: the ladies in the morning
it,
everything for the
until
elaborate toilet has been procured.
Each lady has generally one

slave-girl
who
mistress's pipe.
or two maids, besides a small
on these maids and trims and
waits
The
dants from one to two hours then

daubed over her face and neck, and
;
and polished once.

the
to
lady's
palm,
finally
nons and
is
her
a white paste
this,
when
is
dry,
prepared and
is
Afterwards a blush of rose-powder
smoothed
is
applied
cheeks and eyelids, the surplus rouge remaining on the

as
Next they dye the

and
lights
dressing of a lady's hair occupies her atten-
rose-pink
on the hand
nails red with the
they dress for the day.

false
common and
is
greatly esteemed.
blossom of a certain flower,
Many
of
them have
hair; but no hair-dyes are used,
golden tresses are not
in repute.
chig-
for raven hair
Numbers of
ladies pass a portion of their time in embroidering shoes, purses,
handkerchiefs and such like gear; while before marriage, nearly

event
all their days are occupied in preparations for the dreary
.J
C _J
S
o
p
So
1)
-a
<
<u
>
a
'4-
^^y
OK THB
'
UNIVERSITY
Of
Manchu-Taitai- Bride and Maid.
PEKING ENAMELS.
whom
of wedding one
whom
for
are, alas
probably they have never yet seen, and
they can never
but a few
26
Women
care.
occasionally
of education
widows
hire educated
Women
circumstances to read novels or plays to them.

of
reading
and
watching
occasions
these
quists
generally spend in their court-yards,
ladies
the
light
never
caring
living.
land, although
the
contracting
spoil their eyes
to
smok-
and on
ventrilo-
families retire early to rest,
Opium-smoking
The romance
China.
in
The
men and
Punch-and-Judy
demand.
in
a lamp.
of
many women
in
amusements of the children
the
conjurors,
much
are
the
the
very comfortable
in the courts of their houses.
The evenings they

ing
needy
capable
and ballad-singers are also employed to entertain
Story-tellers
them
way can make
this
in
there
in
by working under
freely indulged in
is
of love
not
is
by
unknown
few marriages are ever celebrated where
formed
have
parties
an
attachment,
or even
seen each other, before their wedding-day.
On
been
be
Yang's
leaving
across
flooded
a
set
and
going
My
stopped.
dwelling,
had always
to
make my way
where a steam mining-pump had once
court,
had deluged the premises before
friend,
when
took
my
it
could
departure, was daily
expecting the complete apparatus for a small gas-work, to supply
his
house with
gas a
feat
which
accomplished without blowing up

Pekingese
Enamelling.
Peking where
There
his
believe he successfully
but one or two shops
are
the art of enamelling
abode.
is
carried on.
The
in
oldest
enamelled vases were made during the Ta-ming dynasty, about

three
centuries
ago
were
produced
about
the
been
throne.
1-6"^^^^^.
but these are said to be inferior to what
200 years
Within the
One
last
later,
when Kien-lung was on
quarter of a century the art has
of the best shops for such
work stood not
262
from
far
the French
and was
Legation,
strangely
enough
kept by a Manchu named Kwan.
The
soldered.
figures
is
depth
the
The
contain.
which
silver,
enamel
the
all
of
the
and
native artist,
the
to
enamel
used
vase,
which
are
they
soldering
for
borax
design
is
now
made into
The enamel powders are
process, known only to one
by the admixture
be
to
man
in
who
sells
different coloured glass.
coloured
powders
of water.
by a
prepared
Peking,
secret
them
The
form, like slabs of
on by boys, who manage
carried
chiefly
is
in a solid
delicate operation of filling in the
to blend the colours with wonderful perfection.
has
been
fuses
whole
the
is
and then
filled
in,
enamel.
fused
the
the
vase
is
is
After the design
next subjected to a heat that
Imperfections
again.
vase
to
and
with the various
in
filled
enamels, reduced to a state of powder and
said
strips
destined
are
coloured
paste
by
and rather thicker
a higher temperature for fusion than the
require
The
copper by a
the
and
engraved are replaced
lines
materials
itself.
to
shape
flowers
into
enamelled
the
for
hard on
soldered
copper,
on
beaten
partly
design
traced
and afterwards
than
form,
The
then
process consists in forming a copper
the
desired
partly
of
of
part
first
of the
vase
are
ready to be
then
filled
up
and the
is
repeated three times,
filed,
ground and polished.
This operation
The grinding and polishing are conducted on a rude lathe, and

when completed the vase is gilt. Some of the largest and finest
vases sell for thousands of taels and are much prized by the
Chinese, as well as among foreigners.
On October i8th I set out with two friends for the Summer
Palace
north-west
I
at
Yuen-ming-Yuen,
of Peking.
One
about
eight
of our party, Mr.
miles
Wang,
to
to
the
whom
have already referred, was connected with the Peking Board
ot
:i5
Bronze Temple, etfMmg:^t=ttli.
,-)
UNIVERSITY
itCALIl-"ORi^
THE SUMMER PALACEThis gentleman used his
Works.
by a mounted
On
These
which
centre
an
general
Something
road
get
to
set
up
great
in the
am
tea and refreshments and the
had
party
had been
order to train the bearers to maintain
in
the
be
to
had a
anything
do with
to
this
but at any
at a loss to determine,
ahead
of him,
four
o'clock
but
its
Further on the
from disagreeable.
far
with
race
steed was nearly over
By
water
duties of the Board, apart from their extreme useful-
appeared
I
with
on the principle
this,
every train
in front of
Whether the
of
hilarity
the
rate
sedan
level.
investigation,
official
ness,
brim
the
the
of
accurate
of
of the
strength
had prepared to convey the remains of an
they
to
filled
sat
Board
the
at
ponies.
proces-
wherein
sedan,
were testing the
gentlemen
placing a railway director
vase
huge
colleagues
his
Imperial princess to sepulture.

of
Dudgeon and I rode

Palace, we fell in with a
bearing
Wang,
of
friends
Works.
chair,
men,
sixty-four
of
fourteen
and was followed
cart
official
retainer, while Dr.
the way, near the Imperial
sion
263
cavalry officer, and
not
managed
until the saddle of
my
to
trusty
shoulders.
we had reached
the grounds of the palace,
and there we found a wilderness of ruin and devastation which

it
was piteous to behold.
Marble slabs and sculptured orna-
ments that had graced one of the

lay
scattered
there were
of
the
some
of the
invaders,
or
arches,
which
preservation
spans
and
debris
monuments which had
had been spared,
Among
of their beauty.
these
is
let
China,
now
weeds.
But
in
and
defied the hand
us hope, on account
a marble bridge on seventeen
lotus-lake.
This
was
still
in the far distance, too, the great
Wan-show-shan could be seen sparkling
At the base of
scenes
finest
everywhere among the
this pile
in
perfect
temple on
intact in the sunlight.
were a multitude of splendid
statues.
264
pagodas
and
of
raid
some
faint
have
been
Palace
left.
on
is
by
the
during
remained,
Imperial
this
within
the fearful
however,
give
to
The Summer
retreat.
boundary
its
walls, just as
was
it
a pity that redress for a breach of treaty
was not
;
impressed
much
It
overthrown
yet
the untold wealth and labour that must
of
ruins
in
obligations
sought
some
real
by some
destructive
less
which
achievement,
Chinese with exalted ideas of our
would
mode
have
civilisation as
it
terrified them with the awfulness of our power.
example, the capital had been held long enough to show
as
for
If,
Enough
lavished
lay
this
ornaments,
allies.
notion
looted and
than
other
the
what
improvements
even
in a short time,
and the
country;
paid
the
for
wise
then
lesson
and
accomplish
after
administration
liberal
in the
could,
condition of the people
indemnity
suitable
had been
which we had been forced to convey, we
might have withdrawn.
Wang made not a single allusion to the wreck around him.

He admired, indeed, what little was left of the former splendour
of the
palace;
but
it
sentiments, for a Chinaman,
what he
thinks.
The
was impossible
when
to
fathom
his real
interrogated, will never disclose
buildings were of purely Chinese design
and conception.
At the monastery of Wo-foh-sze, or "the Sleeping Buddha,"
we found
was
he
said,
monk
2,
of
the
resting-place
complaining
support
enjoyed
los.
late
to
of
bad
for
Lama
here
was not enough
land,
The
the night.
times.
There
old
the establishment, and that though every
yearly grant of twelve taels (equal to about
of our money) from the Peking Board of Rites.

years
Imperial
there
family
have
to
been
bury
but
few of the
ceremony
blishment receives a fee of some 300
taels.
for
But
members
which
of
this esta-
remarkably beau-
Female compressed
foot,
and natural
foot.
Sculptured Panel on Buddhist Cenotaph, Peking.
tjisrrv i^-t<siTi
Wo-foh-sze Monastery,
\-*h.h
Ming Yu en.
OF THE
'^
UNIVERSITY
' CALlfOR'-l^
265
CHINESE TROOPS.
tiful
place was Wo-foh-sze
though
and the quarters of the monks there,
simplicity,
were wonderfully-
and objects of
interest in Peking,
usual
the
with
furnished
clean and well kept.
There are many

but
to
institutions
even the most prominent among them would
describe
by
require a volume
itself.
The most remarkable, and perhaps

China
all
Lama
Banjin
relics of the
the finest,
monument
in
marble cenotaph erected over the robes and
the
is
This edifice stands
of Thibet.
in the
grounds of the Hwang-She monastery, about a mile beyond the

north wall of Peking. When on my way to inspect it I witnessed
a
army on
northern
of the
review
the Anting plain.
Some
thousands of troops, infantry as well as cavalry, were in the field,
and
at a distance
human
the greatness of
gun-boats revealed to
prominent
place
institutions,
Thus
Chinese are concerned.
a warlike and imposing show, but
made
they
examination always seems to
nearer
me
on
me
to alter one's ideas of
and more especially so where
a close view of one of their river
that a stand of rifles
deck was
its
all
which occupied
constructed of wood;
and the ancient foes of China have more than once in the same
way advanced with caution to surprise a tented camp, and discovered
that
plain,
the
tents
possession
undisturbed
were but white-washed clay mounds in

Thus also on the Anting
field.
of the
beneath the flaunting banners, we found the
with the old matchlocks, or
huge basket-work
strike
of military
reform
were modern
above
the
all,
shields
painted
with the faces of ogres, to
the hearts of a foe.
into
terror
were not
field-pieces,
men armed
with bows and arrows, and carrying
altogether
modern
rifles,
For
all
that,
wanting.
fair
evidences
Thus
there
target-practice,
desperate efforts to maintain discipline and order.
same time
and
At
could not help thinking of Le-hung-chang (to
266
whom
the honour of being introduced at Tientsin), the
had
founder of the
companion
in
Le
is
sonally
men
arsenal on a foreign type in China, and the
first
arms of Colonel Gordon and Tseng-kwo-fan.

resolute and calm, and altogether a fine
tall,
Perhaps he entertains an exaggerated belief in

but at the same time he is deeply
of his race.
the capabilities of his nation
fathom
to
desires
occasion,
when
displayed
in
wonderful!
secrets
their
of
On
superiority.
one
with admiration of the beauty and genius
It must be something different in the con"

minds that causes us to remain as we were.
his
perhaps he may have intended to compliment
foreign.?
of our
stitution
But
the
filled
a piece of foreign mechanism, he exclaimed, "How

how comes it that such inventions and discoveries
always
are
power of Western kingdoms, and apparently
the
of
conscious
Perspeci-
after
all,
auditors, rather than to give genuine expression to his opinions.
He
knows
probably
or
The
light of truth
past
of
the
that
no opportunity
little
perfection
centuries there has been
development of genius
has been sought for only
in the
of their mythical kings and of the

classics,
in China.
dark pages
in their efforts to attain to
and the Chinese,
history;
bodied in their
untold
for
for the
maxims em-
have set up an inquisition which perforce
suppresses originality and uproots invention like a noxious weed.
We
there
now
are
in
its
at
golden crown and
compare
in
the
grand cenotaph; but after
massive proportions,
its
interest
its
all,
what
grotesque sculptures,
shady groves of cypress and pine that

with the
daily
life
is
its
will
and aspirations of the
meanest coolie who here comes to gaze with reverent awe and
to place his simple votive offering before the temple shrine!
The
story
of this
building
marble base which gleams
in
is
short one.
The broad white
the sunlight covers the relics of a
Mongol Lama who was esteemed an incarnate Buddha.
Yonder
>
S
Si
OF tBk
UNIVERSITY
CALIVOR!*^
MONGOLS.
is
267
the vacant throne in the Hwang-Shi, or "Central Hall," whereon
this
human
deity
poisoned,
as
a jealous
Emperor towards
monarch
the eighteenth century, the
stately courtesy to the last,
most
Mr. Wylie,
late
of the
the end of
treating his victim with the
and even worshipping and
fying him in public, while his sacrifice
The
was being
London
we
men
me
to the
halted at an inn called
"The
Works we
there
of Prosperity," and, praise be to the Board of
found
who was
Bible Society,
and Mr. Welmer, a Russian gentleman, also joined
our party. Outside the Anting plain
Gem
glori-
secretly prepared.
journeying into the Northern Provinces, accompanied
Great Wall
In
with his face to the East.
see the bed on which his Holiness expired;
by
said,
is
state
in
sat
we
another apartment
At Ma-teen there was a sheep-
repairing the roads.
market, and Mongols disposing of their flocks.
note the strong nomadic tendencies of
is
It
strange to
In the
this race.
Mongol
have seen them actually place their beasts

quarter at
of burden inside the apartments of the house they hired, and
Peking
pitch
the
their
sheep
while
the
own
tent
to
testified
shepherds,
raw-boned-looking race.
triotic Perfection,"
in
the
court outside.
The
condition of
the richness of the Mongolian pastures;

clad
in
sheep-skin
At Sha-ho
we made
coats,
were a hardy,
village, in the inn of
a second halt.
Here
in
"Pa-
our chamber
maxim, written up on a board, "All who seek wealth

by the only pure principles will find it." Judging by this doctrine our host must have been a sad ruffian, for the poverty of
his surroundings bore witness that he, for his part, must have
we found
the
some very questionable channel. We spent the

It was truly a wretched place
night at Suy-Shan Inn, Nankow.
eight feet across, and was
about
measured
chamber"
the "grand
sought after riches
supplied with
it.
In
the
room
in
usual brick bed, having an oven underneath
of this sort the
fire
is
usually
lit
at night,
and
268
is
made up
of charcoal, so that persons sleeping there are apt
to be poisoned
occur.
will
bed and a
In
by the fumes.
Such a calamity indeed
other
those
billet
of
respects
wood
at times
who are used to a brick

pillow may sleep comfortably
for a
enough; unless by chance the bricks become red-hot, and then

one
in
We
apt to be done brown.
is
Nankow
left
at six o'clock
followed the old Mongol road formed
by
Through the pass our conveyslung between two mules, one in front and
morning, and
the
blocks of prophyry and marble.
ances were
litters
the other behind.
Although there
here a great
is
traffic
China, the road in
between
many
Thibet,
Mongolia, Russia and
was
but impassable, not to say extremely dangerous, skirting
as
all
it
does precipitous rocks where the

of
part
either
mule might end
in
places
of a hoof on the
slip
We
a fatal accident.
were
constantly falling in with long trains of camels, mules and donkeys,

all
heavily
Russian
laden,
markets,
some with
brick-tea for the Mongolian and
while others bore produce to the capital from
the outer dependencies of China.
At Kew-yung-kwan, an inner
spur of the Great Wall sweeps across the pass

is
and here,
too,
the old arch which has been rendered famous by Mr. Wylie's
successful labours in translating the Buddhist prayer inscribed in

six
different languages
on
its
inner wall.
find bas-reliefs representing the
On
this arch, too,
Kings of the Devas
in
we
Buddhist
The structure is supposed to have been erected

Yuen dynasty, and is said originally to have carried
pagoda on its summit but this was afterwards taken down
mythology.
during the
a
by the Mings,
other
page
to propitiate the
drawn attention
with which this arch

inscription
will
is
tribes.
have
on an-
adorned, and Mr. Wylie's notice of the
be found
Society," Vol. V., Part
Mongol
to the Indian mythological figures
i,
in the
pp.
"Journal of the Royal Asiatic
14 seq.
to
O
c
<L1
a.
OF
Vg^î
TH K
"
UNIVERSITY
i^CaL!KO^
THE GREAT WALL.

It
necessary to be careful in bargaining with the
is
one up
take
269
for
pass,
this
they
will
men who
impose on foreigners
in
Thus, when about to struggle through the
every possible way.
rough parts of the roughest road
in the world,
they
will
ask for
guide a-piece to pilot them over each rock and boulder that
has
be
to
crossed.
always
It
happens that these guides are
themselves most extortionate characters, and
way grows
as the
some fresh demand is certain to be put forward.

Our friend, Mr. Welmer, had arranged everything with our men
before we left Peking, but still they made most pertinacious
efforts to extort more money from us.
more
difficult
At the Great Wall I reluctantly parted from Mr. Wylie, who

was one of the most distinguished and modest travellers it has
my
been
has often been described, but
me.
appointed
the
climbing
point
to
piece
of
is
was
built
than a clay
bricks,
massive
it
proportions
which we see
and
are
in
confess that
during
the
stone
valleys.
it
dis-
fence,
At the
Ming dynasty.
the
Nankow
of
some portions
fallen into
mound even
the
costly
genius
decay
in its
in the passes,
only stands as a colossal
useless
and dipping down into the
there
miles
raising
gigantic,
has been frequently repaired, and only attained
it
neglect have now
and
pass at Pan-ta-
not so old by several centuries as the outer wall, which

by Tsin-she-whang, B. C. 213.* In its route of over
ling
1,000
simply
is
hills
present
its
That
It
visited
to meet.
good fortune
The Wall
but
of the wall which from

it
was never much more
best parts, faced with sun-dried
as at Pan-ta-ling, with stone.
monument
which
of misdirected
in
It
now
labour,
the Chinese have ever displayed in
barriers to shut out barbarians
See "Journeys
human
from Cathay.
North China," Rev. Dr. WilUamson,
ii.
390.
In
270
vain were
these toilsome precautions
all
The danger
threatening them within the country they
all
guard against, and from
last
remember
very cause at
this
had to succumb before an
alien race.
To
that
was
the while failed to
the native dynasty
understand
this
we must
that a rebel wrested the throne from the last Chinese
Emperor, and
when
that,
usurper had been in turn dethron-
this
Manchus, taking advantage of the existing disorder, came
ed, the
and conquered China.
in
On my
journey
return
and
chained
heavily
in
fell
a gang of convicts,
with
seek a precarious living in
sent adrift to
the pass. There they spent existence, shut out from the villages
and shunned by
One who had charge
all.
of the
rode an
rest,
Half the hair had been rubbed off this poor brute's back
ass.
by the
irons of
passed
trains,
the
and even respectable donkeys as they
rider,
its
would
no intercourse
hold
we met were
traders
with
Many
it.
fine-looking men, and few
of
went by
us without bestowing a kindly salutation.
At Nankow
to
disclosed
were
also
the
an
One
warrior as
but this
favour,
I,
He
politely
of course, refused
myself with an apartment where Ahong,
infested.
elegant
in
of
I
wood
of which
spider-webs,
occupants
bloated
carousing
it
the
many
room was
mules,
my
half-naked slave to reduce the table and chair until
they
their
in
and there found a
at the inn,
of the best room.
obtained the unwilling consent of the landlord, set
first
with
it
contenting
allow,
to
possession
in
offered to vacate
having
up again
put
merchant
native
the
but
were
we
they
left
feasting
were made.
on the
The merchant had
flies
them was
dropped
still
with which
a train of fourteen
sedan, and a troop of muleteers,
next apartment.
There
these undisturbed, for
who were
merry time they had of
gesticulating like a Chinese stage-
off to sleep.
'
î
.^.'v.y ^^'
.muv
'
'
.
CHINESE BRONZE LION-VUEN-MING-YUEN.
FUNERAL BANNERMEN.
\^
OF THb
UNIVERSITY
THE MING TOMBS.

morning
the
In
awakened by the clang of a smith's
was
27
and found that the smith was one of the many travelling
workmen who abound in Cathay. He was making knives and
anvil,
reaping-hooks, and had contrived a simple forge by attaching a
tube
to
then
bringing up the end so as to play through the
passing
air-pump,
his
hollow
lay
in
inn
at
Nankow, and there
remarkable
too,
through the
visitors
to
feet
enormous
of
pair
number
of
certificates
for
said
also
pointing
This
pass.
from
to
my
that
He
cloth.
boots,
his
had
almost without
These
with an evident
declared
were
that
his
had, besides, obtained a
ruffian.
sympathies
fallen heir
which he kept on
his patrons, which,
inspection
his
individual
boots,
described him as a great
presented
He
host and his attendants were
the
foreign
by pads and swathes of
exception,
he
which
fire
Mahommedan
also a
physiognomies. At the same place,
their Indian
for
There was
soil.
the ground, and
found a guide, who had distinguished himself by show-
ing
the
in
beneath
this
not
certificates
of pride.
air
and
Chinese,
he was a foreigner like
myself.
From Nankow
information
of
unacquainted
perors
It
contains
in
the
the
the
first
readers
For the
who may
of the
in
interred,
be
still
great burial-ground where thirteen
experiences
founder
the
among my
remembered
be
will
proceeded on to the Ming tombs.
Ming dynasty were
my
of
where the
almost
with
the
of
summary
those
Em-
will give a brief
that place.
that
Nanking,
the ancient
Ming dynasty established
capital,
his court,
mausoleum of those Kings a mausoleum
in
every particular resembling the tombs of the same line

valley thirty miles north of Peking.
foot
of a
semi-circle
a three miles' radius.
of
hills,
which
These tombs
lie
at
has something like
272
The temple
who
Chingtsoo,
of
of Yung-lo, from 1403
designation
with
reigned
his
till
far the finest of these Imperial resting-places.
and although some of the
stone,
in
becoming
well
repose,
perfect
by
is
approached
is
It
avenue of colossal animals and warriors sculptured
an
through
national
the
death in 1424,
in
figures are in attitudes of
of the
guardians
the
illus-
when we view them as the finest specimens of

sculpture which China has to show, we must acknowledge that
I
her ancient art falls short of our own modern standard.
trious
dead, yet
doubt,
however, whether
could produce anything,
Ming
these
as
most
statues.
as
respects
prevails
China.
was
noticed
pleased
account
interesting
The
of
similarity.
this
great
counterpart
artists
do not say
of
present
the
tomb may be
of
the
day
even so good
better, but
down
set
in
which
architecture
temples, the palaces and even the dwellings in
the
in
I
Chinese
I
to
find
his
tour
It
Simpson,
Mr.
that
must of necessity be
in
has
round the world,
so,
as
his
also
the
spirit
upon such a tomb as this as the palace of the

The animals and warriors form his retinue,
of Yung-lo.
while
offerings
Chinese
look
the
great
the
temples
are
indeed the word

signifies
his soul are
to
sacrificial
the
policy, or
and
annually
the
made
at the shrine in
same way with
wherein
the
deities
their gods:
reside,
and
used to designate Taouist temples,
of the present dynasty,
from their dominions,

sovereigns;
In
palaces
"kung,"
"a palace."
The Emperors
hall.
this
still
they
who drove
do,
perhaps because the
it
may
be, out of
spirits of the
the Mings
tombs of those
offer sacrifices at the
mere
state
departed monarchs
are supposed to exercise an influence over the Imperial throne.
Although
*
"The
Chinese
buildings,
in
their
general
Religious Condition of the Chinese," Edkins,
p.
plan,
42.
present
a
CM
H
b/J
a>
(L)
>
<:
THE MING TOMBS.

many
points
of
number of
the
kinds
the
comprising
poses;
various
the
mandarin and
exist
yamen has
usually four
apartments attached to them,
with
his family.
But
its
it
is
buildings,
is
sacred to the
impossible to treat, at the
conclusion of a chapter, of a subject which would worthily
volume
nor can
the Valley of
in
offices required for administrative pur-
fourth,
the
nevertheless
in the details of the various
magisterial
three, with the
first
while
and
courts,
Thus the
of edifices.
courts
differences
similarity,
their
273
do more than bestow
Tombs, which marks the
fill
passing glance at
this
resting-place of the last
Chinese dynasty.
In
of
conclusion,
travel
reader
vast
venture
some
the
all,
more
hope that
so
suffice
far as
have
my
years
given the
insight into the condition of the inhabitants of the
Chinese
Empire,
The
although a ray of sunshine

after
to
and personal observation
the
darkness
palpable
picture at best
may
brighten
it
a sad one
is
that broods over the land
under
this
in
and
becomes but
straggling, fitful light.
and ignorance we have among us
here and there, yet,
England
Poverty
but no poverty so
wretched, no ignorance so intense as are found
among
the mil-
lions of China.
18
APPENDIX.
The
Aboriginal Dialects of Formosa.
There appears
language
no trace of the existence of a written
to be
among
the aborigines
take into account
the use
of
Formosa, unless indeed we
which the semi-civilised tribes have
made of Roman and Chinese written characters.

The use of the former was taught by the Dutch over two
Some singular
centuries ago, when they occupied the island.
specimens of Romanised Malay documents are
among
the
although
tribes,
value, as they are
now
still
treasured up
they are quite ignorant
unable to translate them.
of
their
These papers
are chiefly title-deeds to property, or simple business agreements
between man and man.
The
Chinese,
since
the
time of the Dutch occupation, have
impressed upon the Pepohoan, or
'
strangers of the plain
'
their
own language both written and oral. It was therefore only

from the oldest members of the Baksa Pepohoan tribe that I
could obtain the words set down in the Vocabulary. At Baksa
the native language
has been superseded by the Chinese collo-
quial dialect.
The Shekhoan
They
aborigines.
is
still
the great
crafty Chinese invaders are

valleys,
and
civilising
northern
of half-civilised
tribe
retain their original tongue, although the
making rapid inroads on
them out of the
language of their fathers.
lands,
if
their fertile
not out of the
APPENDIX.
276
In the savage
from
are
each
impetuous
may be
which
necessity,
and where
retained
most
We
that
among
many
that in
hand
Mata,
or
simple,
easily
human
may be from
face,
that
indeed,
if I
is
may
their simple
the case,
this
constant
use the expres-
same way " eye
In the
five.
remembered
in
is
"
the fact
written numerals, the
something
designates the organ of sight
each
sort of
hieroglyphic signifying
is
con-
and "hand" are synonymous: the
dialects "five"
way becoming a
in that
rude
sion
so notably,
numerals
sounds most
hand are invariably used to solve
arithmetic;
in
retaining a
and the number " five
who have no
primitive tribes
five fingers of the
problems
means of
find that the
This
sound.
original
in time,
from each other,
isolated
part,
which were probably the
its
ceaseless
two hundred years have been,
least
at
the
stantly in use, have suffered least change,
has
by
as
by the breaking up of a race
their original tongue.
language,
the
as well
as they
rocky barriers,
example of the change which,
for
for
separated
forests,
oral tradition afforded the only
knowledge of
of
Formosa
and deep ravines,

an
effected in a language
into tribes
from
have
tribes of
by impenetrable
other
torrents,
we
warfare
mountain
sound
that has
use,
and
its
as
",
it
sign in
and constantly
appealed to to satisfy the savage, as well as the most cultivated
instincts
in the
that
it
has been retained,
too
Thus
various dialects.
appear to
simply
because
me
to
they
have
find
in nearly
its
pure sound,
might go on selecting the words

retained
their
their
visible
primitive
symbols
in the
sounds,
objects
which surround the simple abodes of the aborigines.

But
the
enabled
affinities,
dialects,
reader,
to
or
form
the
by
his
referring
own
opposite,
to
the
conclusions,
that
exist
Vocabularies,
and to
trace
will
be
out the
between the Formosan
and also the close family likeness which they bear to
APPENDIX.
277
the Polynesian languages. (See Polynesian Vocabularies in Traw-
"Indian Archipelago",
ford's
Table
vol.
iii,
and the words noted on
III.)
New
Fresh evidence of the existence of races on the
who speak
coast
the
Rev.
1872.
'
W. W.
Thus, he
ate tribes
is
the
who made
Gill,
tells
Mata, for "ear" Taringa and Taia, and for " hands
Formosan
them.
As
three visits to the island in
us that the wordfor "eye" with two separ-
Ima-ima and Rima-rima.

the
Guinea
Polynesian dialects has been afforded by
dialects,
for
the
These words
are
all
"
to be found in
and indeed might have been taken from
numerals
in
use
among
the aborigines of
Formosa, they would afford but doubtful evidence of the Polynesian origin of the tribes were they not supported by the
direct testimony
more
which the various dialects supply.
Proceedings of the Royal Geographical Society,
xviii.
r"
45.
OF THK
UNIVERSITY
278
1
09
O
Q
u
o
09
d
d>
TRIBES.
o H
pq
CO
OF
Eh
NAMES
CQ
0)
a
at
o
o
o
CO
279
280
TRIBES.
OF
NAMES
CQ
<
28 I
TABLE
28:
NAMES
ENGLISH.
OF
IV.
TRIBES.
TABLE
IV. {Continued).
NAMES
ENGLISH.
OF
TRIBES.
283
284
Comparative Table of the Languages of Formosa, the Philippines,

Singapore, New Zealand, &c.
TABLE
C
c
o
o
o
nJ
o
C
3d
rt
Si '^
One
Saoe
Two
Soo
Three
Four
jPati
iToro
I
Five
Six
Rima
Seven
iPito
Eight
jMivaroo
Nine
Siwa
Ten
Hand
Neum
Koomath
'
nJ
a
HO
o
c P
fci:
cq
V.
c
en
c O
03
r-"
o
pa
T"
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TO^
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THROUGH CHINA WITH A CAMERA.

"Illustrations of China and its People" etc.

With nearly ioo

Polo, been able to

confirm by a series of photographs his story of the wonders of

fame would have escaped the discredit cast

investigation confirmed his story.

Since the time when

journey into Cambodia

not only to the interest,

work by the use of photo-

The camera has always been

and has supplied the only accurate means of portraying objects

them the pleasure ex-

to face for the first time with the scenes

volume have been published

photographs have been

process, so that nothing in the original plates

have always been able to

In the present instance the

and the races with which

books with incontestable

and the people of

been carefully revised and brought

kept myself "au

alone to follow their time-worn methods

chemistry, especially in a land where

troubles are recounted in these pages, and

prove interesting to the amateur

negatives were taken by the wet collodion process, a

process most exacting in

civilisation with its aggressive

be opposed to the genius of the people,

change to place on record.

of events in "Further Asia."

along the line of

films ready to his

of the highest artistic and scientific value.

must here thank

use of such matter as

former publishers, Messrs. Sampson

required for the present volume.

Sketch of the Condition of China, Past

The Chinaman Abroad and At Home

branch of the Pearl

fights Hak-kas The mystic

Macao. Swatow. Chao-chow-

charitable institutions of China

appearance Its population Streets

ment Chao-chow-fu Swatow fan-painters Modellers

Canton and Kwang-tung Province

The Chinaman Abroad and At HouE(contmued).

Native boats Shopkeepers

Gambling Typhoons The

Formosa La-mah-kai Difficulties

How to cancel a state

Taotai His yamen

Medical missions A journey to the interior

'Isla Formosa' A long march The

Savage hunting-grounds La-lung village Re-

FoOCHOW AND THE RiVER MiN

The Japanese in Formosa Cause of the invasion