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Gable Roof Shed Plans 21 Sizes

Copyright (c) 2014 By CheapSheds.com (v2014.11.04)

Page 1

Gable Roof Shed Building Plans 21 Sizes


By CheapSheds.com
Table Of Contents
Videos
Getting Started
Step 1: Foundation
Step 2: Floor
Step 3: Trusses
Step 4: Frame Walls
Step 5: Frame Door
Step 6: Raise Walls
Step 7: Finish Door
Step 8: Frame Roof
Step 9: Trim
Step 10: Shingle Roof
Maintenance
How To Contact Me
Table 1: Materials list and
cost
estimate worksheet
Table 2: Dimensions that vary with the length and width of the shed
Table 3: Number of pieces to cut
Figure 1: Detailed view of framing
Figure 2: Floor dimensions and layout
Figure 3: Simple jig, truss components
Figure 4a: Gable end wall layout showing stud spacing and bottom siding overhang
Figure 4b: Front cross section showing 14 degree angle on sidewall studs
Figure 4c: sidewall stud spacer detail
Figure 4d: Sidewall layout showing stud spacing and siding overhang
Figure 5a: Outer door frame including sandwiched header
Figure 5b: Inner door frame
Figure 5c: Nailing sequence
Figure 5d: Chalk lines
Figure 5e: Complete door trim showing 7/16 inch gap between inner and outer door trim
Figure 6: Wall dimensions and layout
Figure 7: First router cut
Figure 8: Sidewall cross section with truss layout
Figure 8a: Sidewall cross section with optional overhang
Figure 9: Trim
Option A: Concrete slab
Option B: Building your trusses for a ridge board
Option C: 8ft sidewalls
Gable Roof Shed Plans 21 Sizes

Copyright (c) 2014 By CheapSheds.com (v2014.11.04)

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Option
Option
Option
Option

D: 3 1/2 or 5 1/2 inch overhang


E: Double doors
F: 4/12 and 5/12 roof pitch
G: Ramp

Videos
I have made a video for each step as well as an introductory video that reviews all 10
steps. The information in the videos is similar to the plans but there are more specific
details in the plans.
So you might want to watch the video as an introduction then study the written section
in the plans for details.

Introductory Video
I suggest you watch the introductory 10 step video to get an overall view of the shed
building process.

Build A Shed In 10 steps

Individual Videos For Each Step

Step 1: Foundation

Step 2: Floor

Step 3: Trusses

Step 4: Gable End Walls

Step 4a: Side Walls

Step 5: Door

Step 6: Raising And Attaching The Walls

Step 7: Finishing The Door

Step 8: Framing The Roof

Step 9: Trim

Step 10: Shingle The Roof

All Videos
To see all my shed building videos go to my website video page here...

Gable Roof Shed Plans 21 Sizes

Copyright (c) 2014 By CheapSheds.com (v2014.11.04)

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Please Join My Mailing List


Please click here to join my mailing list if you haven't already done so. This
way I can keep you informed about revisions and updates to these plans and
to my website.

Getting Started
These plans are for building a gable roof storage shed in 21 different sizes from 8x4 to
12x20 as shown in Table 1.
They use an 8x12 shed as an example and are designed with:

16 inch centers for the floor joists and the wall studs

24 inch centers for the roof trusses.

For an even stronger shed you could build the wall studs 16 inch on center rather than
24, and the floor 12 inch on center instead of 16.

Hyperlinks
I have included lots of hyperlinks to help you navigate these plans quickly and easily.
When ever I mention a figure or a table you can follow a hyperlink right to it.
I have also included numerous links to my website for videos, a larger materials list,
assorted information articles and to my newsletter sign up page. You will need internet
access to reach these links.

Information Tables
Once you have decided what size shed you want to build, purchase the number of items
shown below your chosen size in Table 1. Ask your building supply store for their
estimate for fasteners as you are purchasing the lumber.
When a Figure show a letter ("A", "B", "C" etc.), you can find this dimension in table
Table 2.
Table 3 shows the number of floor joists, wall studs and trusses you will need based on
the length of the floor/wall your are building. For example if you are building a 12 foot
long floor, you will need 10 floor joists. But if you are building a 12 foot wall you will
need 7 studs for that wall.

Caution:
There are four places where building an 8 wide and a 10-12 wide shed differ. These
details are explained in full in the appropriate step. I just want to point them out here so
that you will be aware that most of the procedure is the same.
Gable Roof Shed Plans 21 Sizes

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8 wide sheds use 2x4 floor joists, 10-12 wide sheds use 2x6 floor joists.

You should should add some 2x4 blocking where the large and small pieces of
plywood join on 10-12 wide sheds for extra floor strength.

You will need to splice a 3 to 6 inch piece of scrap siding at the top of the gable
end truss on 10-12 wide sheds.

On a 10 wide shed door you will need to change the spacing and add one
additional upright to the inner door frame.

Otherwise the differences are the length and number of components you will need, as
detailed in Tables 2 and 3.

General Notes:
I have several general recommendations that will save you some money, time and
effort.
Pre Cuts:
I call for 2x4x92 5/8 pre cut because they are often 25 to 50 cents cheaper each. If
your building supply store doesn't carry them then just use full 2x4x8' lumber.
Screws vs. Nails:
I recommend using screws instead of nails to assemble the framing because they have
better holding power than nails. They also have better pulling power. A screw can pull a
twisted board into place better than a nail can.
Pilot Holes:
I also I recommend drilling 1/8 inch pilot holes regardless of whether you use screws or
nails. This will prevent the ends of your boards from splitting as well as make them
easier to assemble. In addition your screw or nail will not go astray because of the grain
of the wood, nor will you have difficulties with knots.
This will add a little time to the project but it will make construction much easier. If you
have a nail gun then by all means use it. Just be careful to not split the ends of the
wood.
Siding:
Using 4x8 sheets of composite siding that comes with a factory primer will allow you to
build your new shed with the least cost and in the shortest amount of time. Composite
siding holds paint better than real wood siding and speeds construction over using a
plywood or OSB base and covering with strips of siding.
It comes in various grades and thicknesses depending on your budget. The top of the
line if you can afford it is called "Duratemp". It is 1/2 to 5/8 inch plywood covered with a
veneer of composite hard board. This offers the best of both worlds, strength and
durability.

Gable Roof Shed Plans 21 Sizes

Copyright (c) 2014 By CheapSheds.com (v2014.11.04)

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Also "Smart Panel" offers a 1/2 - 5/8 inch thick OSB siding with a veneer of composite
hard board which might be more readily available.
Trim:
These plans are based on ripping 7/16 inch x 4' x 8' sheets of no groove (groove less)
composite siding into 2 1/2 inch x 8 foot strips. Two sheets will give you more than
enough to trim the door and corners for any size shed you build. You dont absolutely
need a table saw but it's the best way. You can do it with a circular saw but your cuts
will not be so nice.
No groove siding is siding without the normal grooves in it. You could use regular
grooved siding but then you will have no control over where the grooves fall on your 2
1/2 inch strip. Or else you will have a lot of waste if you try to plan your cuts around the
existing grooves in the normal siding.
The no groove siding doesn't need to closely match the other siding. It just needs to
match the texture so that it matches when painted. So if necessary you can buy one
brand of grooved siding and another brand of no groove siding in the event you can't
buy them both in the same brand.
Or you can buy ready made trim boards but they are very expensive.
As a last alternative you can 13 pine boards for the trim. But I strongly recommend
against this because real wood will take lots of extra prep time and effort and still will
not give you as nice a finish product as composite hard board trim.
Tools:
This is a list of tools that youll need to build a shed. If you dont have all of them its
likely that you can borrow what you dont have from a friend or a relative.
Hand Tools

Claw hammer
Tape measure and pencil
Speed square
Level
Chalk line
Tin snips
Step ladder
Utility knife
Hand saw

Power Tools

Extension chords
Circular saw
Electric drill, 1/8 drill bit, Philips screwdriver bit
Router, 1/4 inch router bit, router collar
Table saw
Gable Roof Shed Plans 21 Sizes

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Paint Equipment
Caulk gun
Brush
Roller and cage (or a spray gun)

Notice:

Building permits might be necessary to build a shed in your area so check with
your local building department before you get started. For more information read
this article about shed building legal issues on my website.

These construction techniques might not meet the building codes in your area as
they vary around the country.

There are no gurantees about the structural integrity of this shed.

I/we are not responsible for the safety of anyone building a shed based on these
plans.

Now lets get started building...

Gable Roof Shed Plans 21 Sizes

Copyright (c) 2014 By CheapSheds.com (v2014.11.04)

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Step 1: Foundation
The main function of your sheds foundation is to transfer the weight of your shed and its
contents to the ground.
But it also serves several other important functions.

It provides a way to level your shed if necessary


It protects your sheds floor against moisture
And it protects your shed against termites
When necessary can protect your shed from movement resulting from frost
heave, water or wind.

3 General types of shed foundations

Simple skid foundation on earth, gravel or concrete blocks


Wood and concrete pier foundation
Concrete slab which serves as both a foundation and floor

Please note: If you want to build your shed on a concrete slab then jump to
ahead and review Option A in the appendix now.

Basic skid foundation


A basic skid foundation consists of two
pressure treated 4x4 skids laid parallel
on the ground.
This is a lot cheaper than a concrete slab
and has the added benefit of keeping
your shed portable should you ever want
to move it in the future.
Pressure treated means that the skids
are rated for long term ground contact
and are resistant to water rot and
termite damage.
Pressure treated wood is usually some shade of green as a result of its chemical
treatment and is labeled with a tag to identify it as being pressure treated.

See Table 2:
Cut your skids to length using measurement B From Table 2. Dont trust the factory
cuts because large pieces of dimensional lumber are usually to inches longer than
stated.
Gable Roof Shed Plans 21 Sizes

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Select a location with adequate drainage then clear and level the building area.
You can lay the skids directly on the ground, on concrete blocks, or on a bed of gravel.

See Table 2 and Figure 2:


The skid spacing will differ depending on the width of the shed youre building. The
measurement for the skid spacing is measurement D in Table 2, and is shown on
Figure 2: Floor Dimensions and
Layout.
If your site is fairly level you
the skids directly on the

can lay
ground.

If your site is not level then


concrete blocks under each
every 4 feet or less and build
points up with more blocks and
until the skids are
approximately level.

place
skid
the low
wedges

Dig the ground out to provide


base for the blocks or skids
necessary.

a stable
where

Dont worry about getting the skids perfectly level at this point because youll make the
final level when the floor frame is complete.
If drainage is a problem you can dig a
trench under each skid about 12 inches
wide and 12 inches longer than the
length of your shed, fill it with gravel
and place your skids on top.
If you expect to have a problem with
your shed moving from frost heave,
water or wind, or if its required by
building codes in your area you can tie
your shed down.
Ive already covered shed tie downs in
these other posts
Why you might need to tie your shed down
Cheap home made shed tiedowns
Frost heave and your shed foundation
If you need to then just skip over to my shed tie down posts to see what you need to do
before building the floor.

Gable Roof Shed Plans 21 Sizes

Copyright (c) 2014 By CheapSheds.com (v2014.11.04)

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Wood post and concrete pier foundation


The location, number, size and depth of the piers might be dictated by building codes. It
will also be a function of the weather in your area. You might need to dig down below
the frost line to get the best results.
In the absence of building codes and with moderate weather you should have a pier at
each corner, about 12 inches in diameter and going down 24 to 36 inches into the
ground. In addition you will need a concrete block support every 4 feet or less in
between the piers.

Dig holes
Lay your skids out, level and square them
as above. But don't put a support block at
the end of the skids where you will place
the piers. Mark the ground where you will
dig your holes about 6 to 8 inches from the
end of the skids.
Move the skids out of the way, dig your
holes and put the skids back in place.
Measure from the bottom of the skid to the
bottom of each hole and cut a pressure
treated 4x4 pier 4 inches less than this
measurement. This will allow enough room
for concrete to flow under the bottom end of
the pier to prevent wood to earth contact.
Just an extra precaution.

Install piers
Place the 4x4 piers into their holes and
secure them to the skids. You can use a
metal mending plate on each side, or a
metal strap going over the top of the skid
attached to either side of the 4x4 pier. Or
you can use a specializes metal Simpson tie
if they are avaliable in your local store.
With the 4x4 piers hanging down in the
empty holes, re square and re level the
skids. When they are correctly positioned
then fill the holes with concrete up to
ground level and let them dry for a day or
two.

Gable Roof Shed Plans 21 Sizes

Copyright (c) 2014 By CheapSheds.com (v2014.11.04)

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Finished foundation
Now you have a solid foundation to build
your floor on.
Before you sheet your floor you can add
some metal straps or H25's to tie the skids
to the floor joists for extra security.

Foundation for floor-less shed


You don't necessarly need a floor in your shed as long as you have a suitable foundation.
Here are 2 foundation options if you want to build without a floor.

Pressure treated wood frame with post and concrete piers

Concrete stem wall

It's important that you build the foundation tall enough to keep the siding away from the
ground where moisture and termites will damage your shed. I recommend at least 4
inches of distance between the ground and any untreated wood. Like the bottom edge of
the siding.
One way to accomplish this is by increasing the stud length. This will reduce the lower
siding overhang and make your walls taller. I recommend a minimum of 1 inch lower
siding overhang to prevent water from seeping under the bottom plate.
This means your foundation needs to be at least 5 inches above ground level.
How deep you go will depend on building codes, frost level and if you will have animals
trying to dig under your foundation to get in or to escape.

Pressure treated wood frame with post and concrete piers


Layout perimeter
Lay out pressure treated 4x6's to make a
wooden perimeter frame the same size as
the shed. Turn them so they are 6" tall.
Pull a tape measure diagonally across to
make sure the frame is square.

Gable Roof Shed Plans 21 Sizes

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This is an example of a foundation frame


for a 12x16 shed.

Install post and piers


Mark where you want your post and piers
to be. Remove the pressure treated wood
perimeter frame and install the piers every
4 to 6 ft, as described previously.
And make sure it's level and square then
secure the wood perimeter frame to the
uprights with galvanized metal straps.
Don't worry about tying the individual
perimeter pieces together because once
you tie the shed in, that will tie all the
foundation pieces together.

Attach shed
Attach the shed walls to this perimeter
frame with 3 inch nails or screws through
the bottom plate and galvanized 8d nails
every 8 inches through the siding overhang.
This graphic shows a 5 1/2 inch tall frame
with 1 inch siding overhang and 4 inch gap
from ground level.

Got animals?
As an option you can install more pressure treated wood below ground level to keep
animals from digging under the walls.

Gable Roof Shed Plans 21 Sizes

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Concrete stem wall


Another option is to build a concrete stem wall.
This can be a footer with a concrete block
stem wall or a mono pour with the footer
and stem wall made at the same time.
Build the outside of the stem wall the same
size as your shed.

Attach with j-bolts


Attach the shed walls to the stem wall with
j-bolts embedded in the concrete 12 inches
off each corner then 48 inches on center.
The top of the stem wall should be 5 inches
above ground level minimum, which makes
a 4 inch gap from the ground to the bottom
of the siding when using a 1 inch siding
overhang..

Gable Roof Shed Plans 21 Sizes

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Step 2: Floor
If you live in an exceptionally wet area or have a major termite problem you might want
to use pressure treated wood for the entire floor including the skids, the floor joists and
the plywood sheeting. This will add to the initial cost of your shed but it might also save
you money in the long run because a floor built with pressure treated lumber will last
longer in these situations.

See Table 2 and Table 3:


Get the number of floor joists you'll need from Table 3, and the cut length for the band
boards and floor joists and skid spacing from Table 2.

See Figure 2:
Cut your band boards and floor joists and lay the band boards out for 16 inches on
center and drill two pilot holes for each 2x4 joist, or three holes for each 2x6 joist.
If you are building an 8 wide and using 2"x4"x92 5/8" precuts then you can use them
here without any cutting. They will be 3/8" short but this will be split in half to 3/16" on
either side when you cover the floor with plywood. You'll save a few dollars over
2"x4"x8'ers and no one will be the wiser.
All 10 and 12 wide sheds use 2"x6" joists so you'll have to cut them to length.
Assemble the frame:
Lay the joists out on top of the pressure
treated skids and space them about 16
inches apart.
Attach the band boards to the joists with
two to three 3 inch screws or 16d nails at
each joist.

Gable Roof Shed Plans 21 Sizes

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Attach the skids:


Position each skid as per measurement "D"
from Table 2. Then drill pilot holes and toe
nail both sides of each floor joist to the
skids with 3 screws or 16d nails.
Except the front and rear joist.
Leave these two free so you can manipulate
them to match the outside edge of the
plywood sheeting as you nail it on.

Square:
Check the square by pulling a tape measure
and comparing diagonal measurements
across the floor.
Slid a skid back or forth until the
measurements are equal.
Now the floor is square.

Level:
Now that the floor frame is finished and you
will not be knocking it around any more it's
time to level it. Level across the front,
middle and back and along both sides with a
builders level.
Add or remove a little dirt or gravel under
the skids until the floor is level. If necessary
place concrete blocks every 36-48 inches
under each skid. Add blocks or wedges
between the blocks and skids until the floor
is level in all directions.
Recheck the square by comparing the
diagonal measurements again.
Any extra effort you spend carefully level
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the floor now will pay off when you later


when start sheeting the roof.
If the floor is not level the roof sheeting will
not fit properly and you will have to re-level
at that time.
Tie downs:
If you want to attach tie downs to the floor
of your shed, do it now.
Attach them to the floor joists rather than
the skids for an extra measure of security.

Nail the sheeting:


Lay your best sheet of plywood along the
front of the floor frame.
Square it up to the front edge and corners
and nail along the front edge.
Check the edges for square along the side
and nail every 8 inches with 8d nails.
Repeat with the second and third sheet,
putting the worst sheet at the back of the
floor.
-

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Extra blocking on 10 & 12 wide floors:


If you're using regular CDX plywood as
opposed to tongue and groove you should
provide some extra support where the full
pieces of plywood meet the cut pieces.
To make these blocks cut 12 inches off the
ends of some of the 2x4's that you will be
using for studs. You will need one less than
the number of floor joists you have. These
blocks will fit loosely, but that's ok.
Attach them to the underside of the
plywood joint with three or four 2 inch
screws. Leave about half of the block
exposed.
After you nail the smaller pieces of plywood
in place then put screws on the other side
of the joint to match.
Snap a chalk line across the floor every 16
inches using the screw heads on the band
boards as a guide.
Nail the center of your sheeting along the
chalk lines every 8 inches.

Toe nail:
Toe nail the front and rear joists to the
skids.

Gable Roof Shed Plans 21 Sizes

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Step 3: Make The Trusses


Make the trusses now because you'll need two of them to build the gable end walls in
the next step.
Please note: If you want to build your shed with a ridge board then jump to
ahead and review Option B in the appendix now.
To increase the roof pitch to 4/12 or 5/12 you can review Option F here.
Its important that all your trusses be the same height and width so that the ridge line of
your new shed will be symmetrical. You can do this by making a simple truss jig.

See Figure 3:
Make a simple truss jig out of an unused 2x4 top plate by placing two pencil marks the
width of the shed (Dimension "A") on the narrow edge of the 2x4. Cut two small
pieces of wood and screw them to the outside of these marks. Then screw this jig
assembly to the floor.
See Table 3:
Get your truss count from Table 3 and measure and cut the individual pieces. Use a
speed square to mark the angles if you don't have access to a miter saw.
Cut the angled truss pieces first then cut the collar beams out of the remaining end
pieces.
Drill a pilot hole in the pointy end of every other truss piece so you can toe nail them
together at the top joint.
Put the ends of two truss pieces into the jig and press everything together so that the
ends fit tight in the jig and the top joint is symetrical.
Toe nail the top joint with a single screw through the pilot hole.
Position a collar beam parallel to the jig and mark the location of the truss below with a
pencil.
Remove the collar beam and use it as a master to drill 4 holes in each end of all the
collar beams making sure to locate them so the screws will go into the truss below.
Put a collar beam back on the truss pieces in the jig and screw it to the truss with four
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screws on each side. Also make sure the collar beam doesn't hang above the top of the
truss or it will interfere with the roof sheeting.
Pull a tape along the width of the truss to make sure your width measurement is correct.
Make a pencil mark on the floor along the top edge of the truss so you can compare the
rest of your trusses to this mark as you build them. If a truss is off significantly you will
know it immediately.
After you have built all the trusses you can double check them for size by standing them
up on end and measuring the distance from the floor to the peak of the truss. If they are
all equal (or close enough), then you are finished and can disassemble the jig.
If some of your trusses are slightly off, don't despair. If you use them properly this will
not be a problem.
Simply use the shortest pair of trusses to build the gabled end walls with. Use the single
tallest truss in the center of the shed. Use the next tallest pair on either side of the
center truss. Use the last pair next to the gable ends.
This way the roof will still be symmetrical and you won't have to waste or rebuild any of
your less than perfect trusses.

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Step 4a: Frame The Gable End Walls


Please note: If you want to build your shed with 8ft sidewalls then jump ahead
and review Option C in the appendix now.
You will build all the walls directly on the empty floor.
You'll want to build the shorter walls first so you can move them aside and use the floor
space to build the longer and heavier walls in place. Here I'm assuming the gable end
walls are the shorter and therefore lighter walls.
If not go to Step 4b and build the sidewalls first, move them aside, and then come back
here to build the gable end walls in place.

See Figure 4a and Table 2:


Figure 4a shows a stud length of 73 1/2
inches which is for a 2x4 floor.
If you are building a 2x6 floor you need to
reduce the stud length to 71 1/2 inches
otherwise 2 inches of floor joist will be
exposed to the weather.
This will present a maintenance problem in
the future because real wood does not hold
paint as well as the composite siding. Real
wood will weather faster and need
repainting sooner than the siding.
If you want to keep the wall studs longer for
more inside height that's ok. Just be aware
of the future maintinance issue.
Measure and cut the wall studs and top and bottom plates.
Layout the top and bottom plates at 24 O.C. and drill two 1/8 inch pilot holes for each
stud.

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Frame The Gable End Wall:


Lay the wall studs on the floor spaced 24
inches apart and attach each stud to the top
and bottom plates with two 3 inch screws or
16d nails.

Place Spacer Under Truss:


Lay a truss on the floor touching the top
plate with the collar beam facing down and
slide a 1/2 inch spacer underneath the
collar beam.
This will bring the top edge of the truss
level with the top edge of the top plate.

Attach Truss:
Drill 1/8 inch pilot holes through the outer
ends of the top plate and secure the tips of
a truss to the top plate with 3 inch screws.
The truss and top plate should be flush at
the top edge of the top plate.
This screw is not for strength, it's just to
keep the truss in position until it's nailed to
the siding.
Check for square by comparing the diagonal
measurements.
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Sheet The Walls:


Make sure the siding is square to the frame
with 4 inches overhanging below the bottom
plate.
Nail with 8d galvanized nails every 8 inches.
Snap a chalk line along the center of the top
and bottom plates to identify those nail
lines, and snap another line across the top
of the truss and trim the excess siding.
Also trim the inch lip overhanging one
edge.
Attach Handles:
Attach scrap pieces of 2x4's to the wall
about knee high with 3 inch screws to make
the wall easier to move.
This way you can stand the wall up
vertically and have more control when you
are ready to attach it to the floor and to the
other walls.
Set this wall aside to make room to build
the next ones.
For 10 & 12 Wides Only:
If you're building 10 or 12 wide gable end
walls you'll need to splice a three to six inch
scrap of siding to the top of the truss.
This is because the 10 and 12 wide sheds
are also a little bit taller.
Line the grooves on the scrap up with the
grooves on the end wall and nail it in place.
Set this wall aside to make room for the next one.
Build The Second Gable End Wall.
If you're going to put a door in the next gable end wall then proceed to Step 5 for
instructions on how to make the door.
Set this wall aside to make room to build the sidewalls.
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Step 4b: Frame The Sidewalls


SeeTable 2 and Figures 4b, 4c and 4d:
The side walls have different measurements than the gable end walls. Measure and cut
the wall studs and plates per Table 2 and Figures 4b, 4c, and 4d. The studs on these
sidewalls are cut with a 14 degree angle on the top end and the length measurement is
at the short side of the angle.
Important:
Make sure you build the sidewalls with the short side of the stud on the outside of the
wall where the siding will be nailed. You do this by laying the studs down on the floor
with the short side up in all cases.
Step 5: Door in a sidewall:
If you are going to put a door in one of the side walls then proceed to Step 5 for
instructions on how to frame a door into this wall. Build the blank wall first then build
the door wall on top of it.
See Figure 6: Layout and drill pilot holes:
Layout the top and bottom plates at 24 O.C. and drill two 1/8 inch pilot holes for each
stud. These plates are 7 inches shorter than the overall wall length because they will sit
inside the gable end walls. So when you lay these side walls out, the end studs will be 3
1/2 inches closer to the next stud than with the gable end walls as per Figure 6.
Attach the bottom plate:
Lay the wall studs on the floor (with the
short side up) spaced about 24 inches
apart.
Attach each stud to the bottom plate with
two 3 screws or 16d nails.

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See Figure 4c, Spacer detail:


Before you attach each stud to the top plate
put a 1/4 inch spacer below the end of the
stud to raise it up so that the the stud will
be in proper alignment with the corner of
the top plate so that the siding will lay flat.
Lay a scrap of wood along the stud
extending past the top plate to double
check that this spacing is correct.

Sheet walls:
Make sure the siding is square to the frame
with a 4 inch overhang on the bottom.
There will be 3 1/2 inches overhang at each
outside end.
Nail with 8d galvanized nails every 8 inches.

Snap a chalk line, then trim:


Snap a chalk line along the center of the top
and bottom plates and along the outermost
two studs and nail.
Then trim the inch lip on 8, 12, 16 and
20 ft walls.

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Top Cut Mark:


Measure and mark 84 from the bottom of
the siding and snap a chalk line to mark the
top cut line.
Cut this excess siding off which will leave a
3 1/2 inch overhang at the top plate.

Build the second sidewall:


Leave this finished wall in place and build
the next wall directly on top of it.

Paint Now?
Now that all the walls are complete you might want to paint the walls and trim while you
can work on them laying horizontally. They will be much easier to paint this way.

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Step 5: Make The Door


Please note: If you want to build double doors then jump ahead and review
Option E in the appendix now.
This door construction method saves time and money because it uses the materials that
are cut out of the rough opening that would otherwise be thrown away. It consists of an
outer frame which is built in the wall, and an inner frame which is the actual door. These
two are framed and sheeted simultaneously. Later in (Step 7) you'll cut the door out.

You can put the door in either the gable end wall or in a sidewall. The only difference is
which king stud you will use. For a door in the gable end wall use a regular stud.

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Door In Side Wall


For a door in a sidewall use a king stud with
an angle on it.
(Remember to build with the short side of
the angle up toward the siding). Otherwise
there is no difference in the construction.

Inner Door Frame Layout


You can place the door anywhere on the wall you like. However I recommend that you
place it on some increment of 12 inches. Then you are covered by either instance in
Figure 5b.
The difference in the inner door frame layout reflects where the studs fall on their 24
inch centers. You always need a stud in the inner door frame where the siding comes
together to give you something to nail into.
Where the inner door frame studs fall depends on where the door is located in reference
to the end of the wall.
On an 8ft wide shed the door begins at 2 ft off the edge of the wall. On a 10 ft wide shed
it's 3 ft and on a 12 wide shed it's 4 ft. This is what changes the inner door upright
spacing as indicated in Figure 5b.
But that might also change if you move the door to one side or another.
The way to determine the inner door frame layout is when you do the rough assembly
with the inner door frame pieces to check for fit. Pull a tape measure and calculate
where the siding will come together and that's where you need an upright.

Caution:
Make sure the siding doesn't come together where you have a cut line. I.E. on a jack
stud. Because there will be many nails in that joint and it will ruin your router bit. So
make sure the siding joint falls on a king stud, a regular stud or an inner door upright.
If necessary you can start the wall with a 2ft piece of siding instead of a full 4ft piece of
siding to change the location of the joint.
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Door Width
You can also make the door wider or narrower. Just adjust the the door header to your
desired rough opening size and cut the horizontal cross pieces and trim to fit, and
calculate the inner door frame layout as per the section above.

Outer Door Frame


See Figure 5a, Outer door frame: Cut jack and king studs, spacers strips and header.
You will need one fewer king studs than on a wall without a door.
Build a sandwiched door header by nailing a piece of scrap siding between two 2x4s.
This extra half inch makes the total width to 3 inches, the same as the height of a
2x4.
Attach the jack studs to the king studs and nail the header in place.
Nail the door frame and the two outside studs to the top and bottom plates.
Cut eight) 3x3 spacers from the scraps of siding
you trimmed from the gable ends.
Put the spacers loosely inside the outer frame,
two into both top corners and two in both bottom
corners. These are to keep the inside door frame
from shifting until you get it nailed to the siding
See Figure 5b, Inner door frame: Measure and
cut four cross pieces and three uprights.
10 wide only: You will need one more upright
and change the spacing so that there will be a
stud where the siding breaks when you build a 10
wide.
Lay all the pieces in the frame to check the fit.
Remove the pieces, lay them on the floor and assemble with screws. Verify that this
assembly lays flat and is not warped in any direction
Lay this inner door frame inside the outer door frame with the spacers at the top and
sides. It should fit nicely and not move around.
For a gable end wall install the truss with a 3 inch screw at each end and remember the
inch spacer below the collar beam.
Check for square by comparing diagonal measurements.
Important: Measure and record the distance from the center of the stud where the
siding breaks to the inside edge of the rough opening in both directions. This
measurement should be 21 " for an 8-12 wide, 9 3/4" and 33 3/4" for a 10 wide.
These measurements will be used to locate the vertical cut lines after the siding is nailed
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on.
Lay the first piece of siding in place. Square it up to the center stud and check for proper
overhang on the bottom.
See Figure 5c, Nailing sequence: Put a nail through the siding into the inner door
frame bottom cross piece about 2 inches from the edge of the siding. But don't nail into
the bottom plate because doing so will nail the door shut.
Put another nail in the center door cross piece and top door cross piece, and in the top
plate.
Double check the overhang at the end of the bottom plate and put a nail at the outside
ends of the top and bottom plates.
Place a mark on the siding inch above the
bottom of the header.
Important: This mark must be visible when the
second piece of siding is installed.
Lay the next piece of siding in place and put 4
nails in to match the nails in the first piece of
siding. Then put a nail into the end of the top and
bottom plates.
See Figure 5d, Chalk lines: Snap a chalk line
along the center of the top and bottom plates, and
along the top of the truss where you will trim it.
These are nail lines.
Nail across the top plate only, do not nail the bottom plate at this time. And nail the
outside studs and along the truss inside the chalk line.
Measure from the top of the siding to the mark you made inch above the bottom of
the door header and transfer this measurement to both ends of the wall and snap a
chalk line. This is the horizontal cut line for the top of the door.
Measure from the top of the siding to the middle of the door center cross piece as
evidenced by the nail heads. Transfer these measurements to both sides of the wall and
snap a chalk line. This is a nail line.
Place a pencil mark at the top and bottom of the siding 22 inches from the middle of
the center stud in both directions. This should be half the rough opening width plus
inch in either direction (from the measure you took above just before you nailed the first
piece of siding).
Snap a chalk line on both of these marks. These are the two vertical cut lines.
Now you should have:

Two vertical chalk lines

Four horizontal chalk lines (center of top and bottom plates and center door cross
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pieces, and the top cut line)

Plus the chalk lines across the top of the truss for gable end walls

See Figure 5e, Inner door trim: Measure and cut a piece of trim to fit between the
two vertical cut lines at the top cut line. Place the top edge of this piece at the top cut
line and nail it inch from its bottom edge and within two inches of each end.
Measure and cut two vertical pieces to run from the bottom of this piece to the bottom
edge of the siding. Nail these inch from their inside edges from top to bottom to
within two inches of the bottom plate chalk line.
Measure and cut the last two horizontal trim pieces.
Position the middle piece of trim so that it's centered on the chalk line and nail it down
the middle.
Position the bottom piece of trim so the lower edge lies on the bottom plate chalk line
and nail inches from its top edge.
See Figure 5f, Outer door trim: Cut five spacers from scrap trim about 1 inch wide.
Lay two of these spacers along the top trim piece and the other three on the outside of
the first vertical piece of trim.
Lay a piece of trim horizontal along the top two spacers and another piece vertical along
the other three spacers and pull them tight into the spacers.
Measure and cut the vertical piece of trim so that it extends between the bottom of the
siding to 7/16 inch above the top edge of the top horizontal door trim, as allowed by the
spacer.
Nail this in place along the center of the trim.
Move the three spacers to the other vertical trim piece and measure, cut and install the
same way.
Then measure, cut and install a horizontal piece across the top of the two vertical pieces
you just installed.
Double check your spacing: In Step 7 you will run a router inside the groove between
these trim pieces and cut the door out. So double check that this spacing is correct by
removing the collar from the router and running it all the way through the gap between
the inner and outer siding. This will confirm the width is correct and the router will move
properly.

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Step 6: Stand The Walls


Now its time to attach the four walls to the floor. If you skipped ahead to Step 11
(Maintenance) to paint the walls then you have already moved them off the floor and
onto the ground.
If your side walls are still laying on the floor, then slide them about a foot from the back
edge so youll have sufficient room to work.
See Floor Plan Figure 6:
Set the back gable end wall vertical on the
edge of the floor and center it from side to
side.
When it's in the correct position attach it to
the floor by nailing through the siding and
into the floor frame about two inches above
the bottom edge of the siding with 8d
galvanized nails every 8 inches.

Cheating when necessary...


If a wall doesn't line up with the floor then put a car jack under the floor and raise it up
to fit the wall. Nail that part of the wall in place then move the jack. Do this at any place
where the floor doesn't meet the wall.
Remember this cheat when you apply the roof sheeting. Put a jack under a corner and
raise it up till the roof sheeting comes in line with the truss. Then nail that piece down.
Do the same with the rest of the pieces. Experiment with jacking different corners or
walls until you get the results you want.
After the roof is sheeted then go around and re level the floor.
If your shed is slightly out of square at the end of all of this, don't worry as it will not be
enough to notice. This is the real world way to make all the pieces fit together.
In my shed building business I have special pulling straps and jacks for this purpose
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because sheds never come together perfectly without a little "assistance".


Add a brace if necessary:
Put a 16d nail in the center of the back of
the wall and add a temporary 2x4 brace to
the ground if necessary.

First sidewall:
Stand the first sidewall and slid it firmly into
the bottom plate of the end wall.
Make sure the corner studs are tight
together from top to bottom and nail
through the sidewall siding into the end wall
corner stud from top to the bottom.
Then nail across the floor about 2 inches
from the bottom edge of the siding.

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Second sidewall:
Raise the other sidewall and nail the corner
joint and across the bottom of the siding
into the floor frame.

Last gable end wall:


Move the last gable end wall into place and
nail the corners then across the bottom.
Caution:
Which ever wall contains the door, don't nail
across the bottom of the door because that
will be nailing it shut.

Remove the carrying handles.


Now its starting to look like a shed...

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Step 7: Finish Door


Now it's time to finish the door.
I recommend using 1/4 inch carriage bolts to mount the hinges and latch because they
can not be backed out like screws can.
Plus they hold much firmer and will help reduce future door sagging problems.
Router bit:
You'll need a straight 1/4 inch router bit

Router collar:
You'll also need a router collar with an
inside diameter slightly larger than the 1/4
inch router bit. It will consist of the collar
and a threaded ring to hold it to the router
base.
You can purchase them individually or in a
set.

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Adjust the cut depth:


Adjust the cut depth of the bit to the
thickness of the siding plus the thickness of
the trim, plus about 1/8 inch extra.
If you are using typical 7/16 inch siding that
will add up to 1 inch.

See Figure 7, First router cut:


The gap between the inner and outer door
trim will guide the router collar as the bit
cuts through the siding.
Start at the bottom of the side where you
are putting the hinges and pull the router
through the gap between the trim up to the
top and about half way across the top of the
door.
Make sure you cut well past where the
hinge will be mounted so that it will not
interfere with the base of the router when
you start the second cut.
If you aren't cutting through the siding then
set the cut depth a little deeper until you
just graze the 2x4 frame below the siding.
If your cut depth is set a little too deep it
will not hurt anything. You'll just have to
work harder because you're cutting through
more wood.
-

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Mount the hinges:


Locate where you want the hinges and drill
inch holes for carriage bolts.
Use a long drill bit because you will have to
go through 1 inch of trim and 3 inches of
wood.
Mount the hinges by driving 5 inch carriage
bolts into the holes.
Place a second ladder inside the shed and
climb inside. Install the washers and nuts,
then remove the door spacers.
Second cut:
Finish cutting across the top of the door
where you left off and cut down the latch
side to the bottom edge.

Open the door:


Open the door and inspect your work.
If you located your cut lines correctly you
will have an even half inch reveal all around
the door.

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Mount the latch:


Locate where you want the latch to go and
drill inch holes and mount with carriage
bolts.

Remove bottom plate:


And finally, use a hand saw to cut the
bottom plate out of the door opening
between the door frames.

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Step 8: Framing The Roof


Framing the roof consists of attaching the trusses to the top plates then nailing the roof
sheeting to the trusses.
You should also nail through the sidewall siding into the ends of each truss to secure the
roof structure to the rest of the shed.
Hang trusses:
Hang the trusses upside down between the
walls with each end resting on the top plate
directly over a wall stud.
For aesthetic purposes only:
Make sure to hang the trusses so that the
collar beam on all trusses faces the same
direction... Either facing to the front of the
shed or to the rear.

Install trusses:
Stand the first truss upright and center it
over a stud.
The wall studs and trusses are both 24 inch
on center so just align the end of a truss up
with the stud under the top plate and it will
be in the correct position.
Make sure the truss is pushed tight against
the siding and run a 3 inch screw through
the bottom plate into the truss on both
sides of the stud.
Do the same for this the rest of the trusses
on this side.
-

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The other end:


If the other end of the truss doesn't fit tight
against the siding you can hook the ends of
a cargo strap over the siding on either wall
and gently pull the walls together until they
fit tight to the ends of the truss.
Then run a 3 inch screw through the bottom
plate into the truss on both sides of the stud
like before.
Repeat for all trusses.
If you want to add the optional 3 1/2 or 5 1/2 inch overhang to all 4 sides
then jump ahead and review Option D in the appendix now.
Install the roof sheeting:
Begin installing the roof sheeting with a full
8 ft sheet aligned at the top edge of the
truss and put a single nail in the outside
corner at the top of the truss.
Start the edge of the sheeting at the outside
edge of the end truss.
Split the truss with the opposite edge of the
sheeting and nail into the truss at the top
corner.
Repeat for the rest of the large pieces of
sheeting on the first side.
-

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See Figure 8:
Measure and mark the truss spacing for the
rest of the trusses and nail with a single nail
at the top of the truss at 24 inches on
center.
Measure the end truss spacing from the
outside edge of the end trusses to the
center of the closest truss, not including the
siding (from the joint of the siding and the
truss).
The inside trusses are measured center to
center.
Stagger the seams:
Nail the large sheets for the other side
along the top of the trusses only, but
stagger the seams if possible for a stronger
shed.

Nail bottom edge:


Check that the edges of the sheeting are
properly aligned with the trusses at the
bottom. The edge should align with the
edge of the outside trusses or in the center
of the inside trusses.
If they don't align properly that means
either that the floor isn't level or the walls
are not square.
But don't be alarmed if they aren't properly
aligned because that rarely happens.

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The cure is to put a jack under one corner of the shed and lift it until the sheeting comes
into proper alignment. If jacking makes it worse then you are lifting the wrong corner of
the shed. Move your jack to the adjacent corner and try again.
When a piece of sheeting lines up properly then nail it into the truss below.
Continue jacking different corners of the shed until you get all the pieces of roof
sheeting in proper alignment and nailed in place.
You might have to re-level or re-block your shed at this point.
Snap a chalk line to identify the underlying trusses and nail the sheeting in place with 8d
nails every 8 inches.
Put plenty of nails at both edges of the sheeting, particularly where the sheets meets at
a truss.
Secure siding to trusses:
Nail two 8d nails from the outside through
the sidewall siding into both ends of each
truss to further secure the roof structure to
the rest of the shed.

Finish sheeting:
Stagger and install the bottom row of roof
sheeting.
You should have a 2 inch overhang on the
eave sides and nothing at the gable ends.

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Step 9: Trim
See Figure 9 for cut dimensions
Cut 6 pieces of trim item A and 6 pieces of trim item B. The only difference between the
two is the direction of the angle.
Then cut 4 pieces of trim item C.
All the dimensions for the trim are longer than the final size because they will need to be
individually cut to fit.
Gable end trim:
Nail 1 piece of trim A and B to each of the
gable ends starting at the top center.
They will overhang quite a bit but you will
trim them to fit later. Nail with galvanized
nails every 6 inches.

Make sure the top edge of the trim lines up


with the top surface of the OSB and not
with the top edge of the siding. This 1/2
inch gap will be covered by the drip edge
and shingles.

Corner and eave trim:


Take a piece of trim C and hold it firm to
the bottom of the OSB and to the front
gable trim piece. Mark the bottom and cut
to length. Then nail the top 6 inches in
place.
Take a piece of the front angle trim A or B
and hold it in place flush to the edge of
trim C and tight up to the gable end trim.
Mark the bottom and cut to length. Hold in

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place and nail the top 6 inches.


Now line the corner edges of the two trim
pieces up and nail from the top to the
bottom being careful with the edge
alignment.
Repeat for all corners.

Nail a full length piece of trim up under the


eave tight to the bottom of the OSB. Cut
the final eave piece to fit and nail in place.
Repeat for the other side.

Cut excess:
Mark and cut the excess off the gable end
trim pieces. This trim piece will be shorter
than the OSB roof sheeting but that gap
will also be covered by the metal flashing
and shingles.

This is what the final trim will actually look


like.

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Step 10: How To Install Roof Shingles


Installing shingles on the roof of your shed might seem complicated but it's easy if you
take it one step at a time.
Use 3/4 inch long galvanized roofing nails for all the roof work.

Eave drip edge:


Install metal drip edge along both eave edges. I prefer
using 3 inch D style. In this case I have already
painted it to match my trim.

Felt paper:
Roll out a layer or 15# of 30# felt paper to
cover the entire roof.
Use just enough roofing nails to keep it in
place.

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Gable end drip edge:


Install the drip edge on gable ends on top of
the felt paper.

Starter row:
Install a starter row of shingles.
These are shingles with the tabs cut off that
you install and nail close to the edge.
The glue strip on this starter row will hold
the tabs of the next row of shingles in place.

Alternate rows with half a tab removed:


You want to stagger the joists between the
shingles to prevent leaking and water
damage.
Begin the starter row with a full shingle,
then cut half a tab off every other row of
shingles.
This way every joints where the shingles
come together will be covered by a full tab
above it.

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Shingle spacing:
Most shingle manufacturers specify 5 inches
of exposure.
Put four roofing nails in each shingle about
5/8 inch above the tab cutout but below of
the glue line.

Stack some supplies:


Stack some shingles along the ridge line for
convenience and install the shingles from
the bottom eave up to the top.
Start the shingles from the front of the shed
and work to the back because the starting
edge will be neater and less ragged than the
edge you cut to fit.
Work from the same end on both sides. This
way you can use the cut offs from one side
to finish the row on the other side.

Cutting surface:
Use a utility knife, a straight edge and a
cutting board to trim the shingles in each
row to fit.
Use the cutoffs from the other side of the
shed if they are long enough.

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Keeping your rows straight:


Measure each end of the row every few
rows to make sure they aren't getting
narrower or wider. If so, make it up on the
next few rows.
Don't wait till you get all the way to the top
to find that your rows are uneven. If you
can't do it by eye then snap a chalk line.
You can also use the lines on the felt paper
if you installed it square. But most likely you
will need to snap a chalk line.

Cut ridge caps:


Use your utility knife and straight edge to
cut a stack of shingle tabs to nail along the
ridge cap.
The back edge of each tab tapers in so that
it will fit neatly under the tab on top of it.

Nail ridge caps:


Nail the row of ridge cap tabs on and you
are finished with the roof.

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Maintenance
Congratulations! You've just built a storage shed and saved a ton of money at the same
time.
Now you need to protect your investment for the long term.

Paint:
The first thing you need to do is to paint your new shed. Paint serves 2 functions.

The first is to make your shed look good.

The second and most important is to protect your shed.

Paint is a barrier against the elements that keeps water and the sun from damaging the
wood. It is a protective coating.
Caulking covers the large gaps that paint cant cover. Then you paint the caulk to protect
it too.
So give your new shed 2 coats of the best paint you can find. The better the paint the
longer it will last which means time and money saved on repainting in the years ahead.
A good quality paint will last 5 to 10 years. Keep a close eye on it as it gets older and re
caulk and re paint when necessary.

Termites:
Whether done intentionally or accidentally, when termites find a path into the un treated
wood of your shed they will make themselves at home and do damage to the wood long
before you ever notice their presence.
Protect your shed from termites by keeping any dead plants away from your shed.
Termites will eat the dead plants and find their way into the shed. Also avoid leaning
untreated wood against the outside of your shed for the same reason.
If you decide you need a ramp then make it from pressure treated wood. It will not rot
and is resistant to termites.

Loose fasteners:
Your shed is put together with nails, screws and carriage bolts. But over time the wood
these fasteners are installed into will relax and the fasteners will loosen up.
After your shed is 3 to 6 months old, walk around it with a hammer and inspect for nails
heads that are popping up. This mostly happens in the floor. Just pound them back in. If
it happens on the outside, re touch the paint around the area that the nail head broke
through.
If the fasteners holding your door come lose, your door will start sagging. So be pro
active here and keep the screws or bolts tight so your door stays in proper align.
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Roof:
Replace any loose or missing shingles immediately. Check the inside of your shed
regularly for stains that indicate water damage. If you find some stains inside your shed,
that is a sign that your roof has a leak.
Once you have found the leak, how you repair it will depend on where it's located.
Usually replacing any missing shingles and the proper application of a good quality caulk
or roof coating will do the job.

How To Contact Me:

You can email me at phil438@cheapsheds.com

So if you have any questions or feedback I will be more than happy to hear from you.

Thanks, Phil the Shed Man

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Page 49

A 4x4x8 pt
A 4x4x10 pt
A 4x4x12 pt
B 2x4xpc
C 2x4x8
C 2x4x10
C 2x4x12
C 2x4x14
C 2x4x16
C 2x4x18
C 2x4x20
C 2x6x8
C 2x6x10
C 2x6x12
C 2x6x14
C 2x6x16
C 2x6x18
C 2x6x20
D siding
E No groove
F CDX
G OSB
H 10 ft drip edge
I Felt 15#
J shingles
K hinges
L latch
M fasteners

1 0 2 0 0 2 4 2 0 0 2 4 2 0 2 0 0 2 4 2
0 0 0 2 0 0 0 0 2 0 0 0 2 4 0 2 0 0 0 2
0 1 0 0 2 1 0 0 0 2 1 0 0 0 0 0 2 1 0 0
33 39 46 48 53 59 64 42 43 49 53 58 62 67 44 49 54 59 64 69
6 5 7 5 5 5 5 5 1 1 1 1 1 1 5 1 1 1 1 1
0 0 0 6 0 0 0 4 8 4 4 4 4 4 0 4 0 0 0 0
0 1 0 0 6 0 0 0 0 4 0 0 0 0 4 4 8 4 4 4
0 0 0 0 0 6 0 0 0 0 4 0 0 0 0 0 0 4 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 6 0 0 0 0 4 0 0 0 0 0 0 4 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 4 0 0 0 0 0 0 4
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 4 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 2 0 0 0 0 0 0 2 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 7 11 10 12 13 15 16 0 2 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 2 0 0 0 0 7 9 12 12 13 15
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 2 0 0 0 0 0 0 2 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 2 0 0 0 0 0 0 2 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 2 0 0 0 0 0 0 2
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 2 0 0 0 0 0 0
6 7 8 9 10 11 12 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 10 11 12 13 14 15
2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2
1 2 2 3 3 4 4 3 4 4 5 5 6 7 3 4 5 6 6 7
2 2 3 4 4 5 5 5 5 5 7 7 9 9 6 8 8 10 10 12
2 3 4 4 5 5 5 5 5 5 6 6 7 7 5 5 5 6 7 7
1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
2 3 3 4 4 5 5 4 5 6 7 7 8 9 5 5 6 7 8 9
3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3
1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
Total cost to build

tota
l
Sub

12x1
0
12x1
2
12x1
4
12x1
6
12x1
8
12x2
0

10x1
0
10x1
2
10x1
4
10x1
6
10x1
8
10x2
0
12x8

8x16
10x8

8x12
8x14

8x8
8x10

8x4
8x6

Cos
t

Size

Table 1: Materials List and Cost Estimate for shed sizes 8x4 - 12x20

0
4
0
74
1
0
4
0
0
0
4
0
0
16
0
0
0
2
16
2
8
12
7
1
10
3
1
1

Dowload a wider version of this table


I can't get this table in landscape (wide) format with the rest of the pages in portrait
(tall) format. So here is a link where you can download this same table in the wider
landscape format that is easier to read and will give you more writing room.

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Table 1 Notes:
A)
PT means pressure treated lumber, which is designed for long term ground contact
without rotting or being eaten by termites.
B)
PC means pre cut 2x4x92 5/8 inch lumber. If your building supply store doesn't
carry them then buy regular 2x4x96" lumber. I recommend using pre cuts because they
are cheaper and often times better quality lumber.
C)
If you can't buy the length you need then buy the next longer size and cut it. This
is often the case as many stores don't carry 14 or 18 ft lengths.
D)
Using 4x8 sheets of composite siding that comes with a factory primer will allow
you to build this shed with the least cost and in the shortest amount of time. Composite
siding holds paint better than real wood siding and speeds construction over using a
plywood or OSB base and covering with strips of siding. It comes in various grades and
thicknesses depending on your budget. The top of the line if you can afford it is called
"Duratemp". It is 1/2 to 5/8 inch plywood covered with a veneer of composite hard
board. This offers the best of both worlds, strength and durability. Also "Smart Panel"
offers a 1/2 - 5/8 inch thick OSB siding with a veneer of composite hard board which
might be more readily available. Regular composite siding will still give you a long
service life as long as you keep it painted properly. Most of them are rated for 20 or 25
years. And it's a good choice for budget reasons. The only downside is that it's not
available in high humidity areas like Florida and Hawaii.
E)
These plans are based on ripping 7/16 inch x 4' x 8' sheets of no groove (groove
less) composite siding into 2 1/2 inch x 8 foot strips. One sheet will give you more than
enough to trim the door and corners for this 8x8 shed. You dont absolutely need a table
saw but it's the best way. You can do it with a circular saw but your cuts will not be so
nice. No groove siding is siding without the normal grooves in it. You could use regular
grooved siding but then you will have no control over where the grooves fall on your 2
1/2 inch strip. Or else you will have a lot of waste if you try to plan your cuts around the
existing grooves in the normal siding. The no groove siding doesn't need to closely
match the other siding. It just needs to match the texture so that it matches when
painted. So if necessary you can buy one brand of grooved siding and another brand of
no groove siding in the event you can't buy them both in the same brand. Or you can
buy ready made trim boards but they are very expensive. As a last alternative you can
13 pine boards for the trim. But I strongly recommend against this because real wood
will take lots of extra prep time and effort and still will not give you as nice a finish
product as composite hard board trim.
F)
CDX is the cheapest and roughest grade of plywood with cracks and knots in the
surface. You can use a better grade for a nicer floor finish. You can use either normal
square edge plywood or the more expensive tongue and groove especially designed for
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floors. If you want to save few dollars you can even use 1/2 inch OSB.
G)
Organized Strand Board (OSB) for roof sheeting is less expensive than plywood.
But you can use either.
H)

Metal drip edge, "D" style, usually 10 ft lengths, galvanized or painted.

I)

Felt paper, 15 or 30#.

J)
Number of shingle "bundles." 3 bundles usually cover 100 sq.ft of roof, or 1
"square." Use 3 tab shingles for economy, or spend a little more and buy high quality
architectural shingles for longer lifespan and lower long term maintenance.
K)

Hinges, use large heavy duty strap hinges.

L)

A typical gate latch will do in most cases.

M)
Ask your building supply store for their estimate on the amount fasteners you'll
need. Just buy more then you think you need because they're cheap and you can always
use them on other projects. -3in deck screws for trusses and framing, -16d common
nails for framing (if you don't use screws), -8d galvanized box nails for siding and trim,
-8d sinkers nails for floor and roof sheeting (but you can use 8d galvanized nails), -5
1/2in x 1/4in carriage bolts, nuts, washers for the hinges and latch.

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Table 2: Dimensions that vary with the length and width of the shed
Shed
size

8x4

96

48

93

60

41

49.5

32

3.25

62

46.25

15.75

74

96

27.75

8x6

72

65

8x8

96

89

8x10

120

113

8x12

144

137

8x14

168

161

8x16

192

185

10x8

120

96

117

72

89

10x10

120

113

10x12

144

137

10x14

168

161

10x16

192

185

10x18

216

209

10x20

240

233

12x8

144

96

141

84

89

12x10

120

113

12x12

144

137

12x14

168

161

12x16

192

185

12x18

216

209

12x20

240

233

A Overall width, Gable end wall top and bottom plates


B Overall length, Floor band boards and pressure treated skids
C Floor joists
D Floor skid spacing
E Sidewall top and bottom plates
F Truss main rafter
G Truss collar beams (8'- truss cut off, 10'- half of a pre-cut, 12'- full pre-cut)
"H" Width of narrow piece of roof sheeting. See Step 8a if you are adding the optional
overhang.

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Table 3:
Cut list: Number of pieces for the floor or for each wall
Dimension

Floor joists

Wall studs
Trusses

10

12

10

14

12

16

13

18

15

10

20

16

11

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Figure 0: Sample of 14, 18 and 22 degree angle for 3/12, 4/12 and 5/12 roof pitch

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Figure 1: Detailed view of the framing

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Figure 2: Floor dimensions and layout

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Figure 3: Simple jig, truss components

Figure 4a: Gable end wall layout showing stud spacing and bottom siding overhang

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Figure 4b: Front cross section showing 14 degree angle on sidewall studs

Figure 4c: Sidewall stud spacer detail

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Figure 4d: Sidewall layout showing stud spacing and siding overhangs

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Figure 5a: Outer door frame including sandwiched header

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Figure 5b: Inner door frame

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Figure 5c: Nailing sequence

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Figure 5d: Chalk lines

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Figure 5e: Inner door trim

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Figure 5f: Complete door trim showing 7/16 inch gap between inner and outer door trim

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Figure 6: Wall dimensions and layout


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Figure 8: Sidewall cross section with truss layout

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Figure 8a: Cross section with optional overhang

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Figure 9: Trim

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Option A: Building Your Shed On A Concrete Slab


At first glance you might think a concrete slab would be the ultimate floor and
foundation system for your new shed.
But a slab has two main drawbacks you should consider before you make a final
decision.

The cost: A concrete slab could easily cost 3 to 10 times the amount of a wood
floor. Depending on if you do it yourself or hire someone.

Your shed is no longer portable.

No Longer Portable
Not being portable is important for 2 reasons.

You cant move your shed if you need to.

And permanent structures are often treated differently by the law.

Permanent structures often need building permits regardless of the size. This means you
will need to build it to code and have it inspected, both which will cost you additional
time and money. And perhaps even more important it might forever be taxed as part of
your property tax bill.
But on the plus side is you will have a floor that can carry any kind of weight, will never
rot, and your shed will be resistant to almost any source of movement be it water, wind
or frost heave.

Physical Dimensions
Build your slab the size of the shed floor as per Table 2. In other words if you are
building an 812 shed then build an 812 slab. This way the siding will be able to hang
over the side of the slab an inch to prevent water from seeping under the bottom plate
and into your shed.
If you want to put an apron in front make sure it slopes away from the shed or is a little
lower than the floor.
The top surface of your slab should be about 5 inches off the ground. This will allow your
siding to overhang about 1 inch, then provide a 4 inch gap between the ground and the
untreated wood siding.
This 4 inch gap is your best defense against termites and moisture getting to the shed.
And often times this is in the building code.
Make your slab 4 inch thick and it will hold all the weight you can put on it. Any thicker
is a waste of concrete and money.

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Ramp
If you want a ramp its best to pour it the
same time as the rest of the slab.
You can frame it in and make it part of the
slab.
This way you will never have to worry about
a wood ramp rotting and having to be
replaced.

Anchors
You can install J bolts in the concrete when its wet or you can install expandable head
anchor bolts after the walls are in place. If you are building to code check which option
they recommend or allow.
Put an bolt 12 inches in from each side of both corners, then a bolt every 48 inches. And
put a bolt near the edge of each side of the door.

Expandable Bolts
To install expandable bolts put your 4 walls
in place first.
Then use a hammer drill and masonry bit
the diameter of your bolts. Drill a hole
through the bottom plate and into the slab
sufficient for your bolts.
Put the nut and washer on the bolt and
drive it into the hole, then tighten it up with
a wrench. This will expand the bottom of
the bolt and turn it into a solid anchor.

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Weather Proof
Use pressure treated 24s for the bottom
plates and put a foam seal between it and
the slab.
If youre using J bolts in the slab then put
the foam on the bolts before you raise the
walls.
If youre using expandable bolts then staple
the foam to the bottom plate before you
raise the wall. This will keep it from moving
around.

3 Inches Of Extra Wall Height


My plans allow for a 4 inch overhang so that
you can nail the siding directly to the floor
for extra strength.
But the siding only needs to overhang a slab
about 1 inch.
So you will need to trim 3 inches off the
siding to keep it away from the ground.
But a better way to use those extra 3 inches
would be to build your shed 3 inches taller
and gain some storage height.
Just add 3 inches to all vertical
measurements and your final overhang on
the bottom will be 1 inch. Just what you
want. Plus your shed will be 3 inches taller.

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Option B: Building Your Shed With A Ridge Board


If you want to build your shed with a ridge board then cut all the truss rafters 3/4 inch
shorter than dimension "F" in Table 2.

Build The Trusses


Build the truss with a short (2 to 3 inch)
2x4 spacer in the gap where the ridge board
will go.
This spacer is temporary so don't secure it
in any way.
On 8 ft wide trusses make sure the collar
beam is positioned so that does not
interfere with the ridge board.

Build Gable Walls


Keep the spacer in when you sheet the
gable walls to make sure the gap doesn't
close up because you will not be able to
adjust it once the truss is nailed to the
siding.

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Install The Ridge Board


Cut to the ridge board to the length of the
shed (dimension "B") and mark it 24 inch
on center.
Remove the spacers in both end walls and
put the ridge board in between the 2 gable
ends.
Line it up with the top of the truss and nail
in place.

Raise The Trusses


Raise the trusses one at a time and work
the ridge board into the gap. It might be a
tight fit and take a little hammer work to
get each one into place.
Line the top of the truss with the top of the
ridge board and nail the truss rafter to the
ridgeboard on each side. Then nail the
trusses into the top plate as normal.

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Option C: 8 Ft Sidewall Height


You can easily and cheaply make your shed a foot taller. Some stores don't even sell 7ft
siding so you might have to buy 8ft siding anyway. Rather than cutting it off go ahead
and use all 8 feet and gain the extra height. Just add 12 inches to all vertical cut
measurements.

Additional materials and cost


The only additional material you will need is one more piece of siding to cut up and use
to cover the gable ends and 2 or 3 pieces of "z" flashing (depending on the width of your
shed).

Splice The Siding


Splice the siding at the top plate and trim
the bottom edges to the proper overhang.

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Install "Z" Flashing


Install the z flashing to make the joint
water tight then cover the gable end with
siding and cut the excess off as normal.

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Option D: 3 1/2 or 5 1/2 Inch Overhang


It's very easy to add 3 1/2 or 5 1/2 inches of overhang on all 4 sides without needing
any fancy rafter cuts or complicated soffit trim.

Additional materials and cost


There will be a small additional cost but not as much as you might think. The biggest
expense will be extra labor.
You will need an additional 6 to 8 clean 2x4's or 2x6's for the overhang but you will save
the same number of trim strips. And this will allow you to buy just 1 sheet of no groove
siding instead of 2.
And you will need 0 to 2 more sheets of roof sheeting, depending on the size shed you
are building and how carefully you plan your cuts and use your cutoffs.
You should be able to get all of your narrow roof strips out of the end cut offs on small
sheds like 8x8 through 8x12.

Good value
If you're willing to spend the extra time and labor this roof overhang is a very good
value. On a small sheds it will be break even cost wise because you can use the cut offs
from the roof sheeting and the savings in trim material will offset the additional cost of
the 2x4's or 2x6's for the overhang.
It will improve the looks of your shed as well as being functional.

On 8 ft wide sheds only install the small roof strips first


This step is only necessary on 8 wide sheds because the strip is too small to give the
overhang good support. On larger sheds the strip is wide enough to offer plenty of
support when installed on the bottom.
See Table 2: For 3 1/3 inch overhang cut the small
roof strips 2 inches wider than called for in dimension
H.
For 5 1/2 inch overhang cut the small roof strips 4
inches wider than called for in dimension H.
Cut them long enough to allow 3 1/2 or 5
1/2 inches overhang on both the front and
back gable ends. Remember to add 1/2
inch or so more for the thickness of the
siding. For example rather than being
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24/48/72 inches long it would be


(24/48/72 + 4) or (24/48/72 + 6).
Install these small pieces first at the top of
the trusses and be sure to space the
trusses per Step 8.
This will put a full width piece of sheeting
on the bottom edge to give the overhang
plenty of strength thereby eliminating the
need for fancy rafter cuts or complicated
soffit trim.

Install the large sheets


Install the large sheets as per Step 8
making sure everything is square as you
nail them down.
When you are finished you will have 3 1/3
or 5 1/2 inches of unsupported overhang on
all 4 sides of your shed.

Horizontal trim
See Figure 8a: Cut a 14 degree angle across the wide side of four straight and clean
24's (or 2x6's). Don't worry about the length yet. Just use full length and cut them to
fit as necessary.
Use screws: Attach them to the underside of the gable overhang with 1 inch to 1
inch screws. You will not be able to hammer a nail in because it will bounce around too
much (unless you have a nail gun).
You can use C clamps to hold the ends in
place if you don't have a helper. Attach the
2x4/2x6 trim to the front and back gable
ends first, then under the eaves on both
sides

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Use plenty of fasteners on the ends to


prevent the 24s from warping and pulling
away. Mark and cut the excess off the gable
end pieces.

Now you will have a nice 3 1/2 or 5 1/2 inch


overhang on all 4 sides. The 2x4/2x6 trim
will give the overhang plenty of strength,
give you backing to nail the shingles and
drip edge into, and make the finished shed
look good.

Vertical trim
The 2x4 or 2x6 boards for the overhang will act as your horizontal trim so nothing else is
needed there. Now you can go straight to installing the vertical trim.
Cut to fit and install the corner trim so that
it fits flush with the bottom of the siding
and runs up to the roof trim.
Nail with galvanized nails every 4 to 6
inches as per Step 9.

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Page 80

Option E: Double Doors


This is an example of building a double door on an 8ft high 16 ft long sidewall.
Carefully study Step 5 because this section only deals with the difference between
building a single door and a double door. It builds on the information in Step 5.

Door rough opening size


Determine how wide and how tall you want your door opening to be and add 3 inches to
get your header length.

Header Size
For an end door you can use a sandwiched 2x4 header for maximum door height
because the header will not be load bearing. But on a sidewall the header will be load
bearing so I recommend using 2x6's.

Jack stud length and maximum rough opening height


2x4 header

2x6 header

70 inch

68 inch

71 inch

69 inch

82 inch

80 inch

83 inch

81 inch

7ft wall height (73 inch king stud)


Jack stud
Rough opening height (maximum)
8ft wall height (85 inch king stud)
Jack stud
Rough opening height (maximum)

Cripple studs
See Figure A: With an 8ft wall height you might not want the maximum door hight. If
you make the door shorter than maximum you will need to add some cripple studs
between the header and top plate to transfer the load to the header and to give you
something to nail into.

Door location
See Figure A: In this example I have started the door at a 24 inch center. Im making a
rough door opening of 67.5 inches using a 70.5 inch header. This way both king studs
will fall on a 24 inch center.
But if you want the door wider or narrower just adjust your door header to the desired
rough opening then add a stud or vertical door upright where a 24 inch center falls.
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The 24 in center marks represent where you need a stud or a door upright. The 48 in
center marks represent where the siding joins.
You don't want a cut line (jack stud) to fall where the siding joins because there will be
many nails at this location which will ruin your router bit and the joint will have no
strength.
The cure is to either move the door a few inches one way or another, or to begin the wall
with a half piece of siding which will change the joint locations by 24 inches.

Inner door frame


See Figure B: The vertical uprights will be the length of the jack stud less 3 inches (
inch spacer above the upper cross piece). The horizontal cross pieces will be the rough
opening width minus 1 inches (3 spacers), then cut in half.

Temporary spacers
See Figure B: You will only need horizontal spacers at the top of the door under the
header because you will be cutting the bottom plate out which will give the bottom of
the door clearance. So you can leave the bottom spacers out.
Put spacers between the vertical uprights and the jack studs, and between the 2 center
center vertical uprights.

Active/passive door
See Figure B: One door will be the primary active door and the other door will be
passive and fixed in place until you open it. Put the middle cutline on the passive door
upright and add a second upright beside it to give you something to nail the passive
door trim into.
If you make your inner door frames the same size the trim will make the active door
appear wider by about inch because the cut line will be off center.
If you want to make the doors appear exactly the same you will need to make the active
door frame inch more narrow and the passive door frame inch wider. But I never
worry about this as no one ever notices the difference.
If you want to make the active door wide and the passive door narrow so that you will
not have to open the passive door very often you can adjust the inner door frames to
give any width combination you want.

Locate your cut lines


See Figure E: Before you put the siding on locate and record the 3 vertical cut line which
will be inch outside the door frame, and the horizontal cut line inch above the
bottom of the door header.

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Door trim
Attach the door trim on the active door first, then the passive door. Then do the outer
door trim. Figure C shows the finished trim and Figure D shows a the spacing of the trim
in reference to the underlying inner door frame.

Step 7: Cut the doors out


Cut the door out where the hinges go first, attach the hinges then cut across the top,
then up the center and open the doors.

Install 3 latches
Put two latch on the inside the passive door. One at the top and one at the bottom to
keep the passive door locked in place till you need it. Then put an outside latch on the
active door.

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Double Door Figure A: Showing inner door upright and cripple stud spacing

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Double Door Figure B: Showing temporary spacers and extra passive door
upright

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Double Door Figure C: Final door trim

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Double Door Figure D: Showing trim spacing relative to the underlying inner

door frame
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Double Door Figure E: Showing cut lines

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Option F: 4/12 and 5/12 roof pitch


The pitch used through out the examples in these plans is a 3/12 pitch.
You can change the pitch to either 4/12 or 5/12 pitch. Use this table for

The angle on the trusses, sidewall studs and trim pieces

The overall length of the truss pieces.

But...

The length of the collar beams remains the same

The length of the sidewall studs remains the same


Truss and sidewall angle

Truss component length

Pitch

Cut Angle

8 wide

10 wide

12 wide

3/12 pitch

14

49 1/2

62

74

4/12 pitch

18

50 3/4

63 1/2

76

5/12 pitch

22

52

65

78

See Figure 0: Cut angle template


Sidewall studs
To increase the pitch change the cut angle on the sidewall studs but keep the length
measurement the same. The steeper the angle the more attention you will have to pay
to the proper placement of the top plate so that it's in line with the siding.
See Figure 4c: Sidewall stud spacer details

Truss pieces
Use the matching angle on the truss pieces and cut to length. Use the original
dimensions for the collar beam.

Gable end siding


If you are building with 7ft sidewalls you will have to splice the gable end siding at the
top because your shed will be taller with a steeper pitch. Just nail the siding to the truss
and don't worry about nailing the joint its self. There is plenty of strength in the truss to
carry the load.
You might want to use a piece of "z" flashing in the joint to make it waterproof.
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Trim
Use the matching cut angle for your trim pieces

Materials usage
It will not require any additional dimensional lumber to increase the roof pitch. But it will
require a little more siding to cover the top of the gable ends but you can probably get
that out of the existing cut off scraps.
Since it will increase the perimeter and surface area of the roof you might need more
metal drip edge. Increasing the pitch will increase the amount of felt paper, shingles and
nails you need.

Extra Caution
The higher the roof pitch the greater the possibility of losing your balance and stepping
off or falling off the roof and hurting yourself.
Roofing is one of the most dangerous occupations and this part of building your shed is
also the most dangerous. So use extra caution here. Especially if you decide to build
with a 5/12 pitch.

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Option G: Build A Shed Ramp


A ramp makes it easy to get big things into
and out of your shed, as well as wheeled
items like a lawnmower or a hand cart.
Or even a motorcycle?
Plus it's safer because you are less likely to
trip over the edge of the floor.

Ramps can be temporary or permanent. But permanent is more useful because it's
always there when you need it.

This information is about building a permanent ramp 4ft long and the width of your door
opening. If you need something longer you can change the dimensions accordingly.

Pressure treated wood


All wood should be pressure treated because it will be in contact with the ground.
Pressure treated wood is chemically treated to be resistant to rotting and termites.
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Materials list
A 4ft square ramp is very materials efficient. You will need

1) 4x4 sheet pressure treated 3/4 inch plywood

3) 2x4x8 pressure treated

If you want a larger ramp you will need...

A ledger and an end board the width of the door

Enough ramp joists @ 16 inch O.C.

A sheet of plywood large enough to cover the ramp

You will also need a handful of 3 or 3 1/2 inch deck screws and some 2 inch deck
screws. You want to use deck screws because they are coated to resist the elements.

Trim door, 2 options


You will need to trim the bottom of the door
so it will close when the ramp is in place.
You have 2 choices here. You can cut it...

Flush with the floor

1/2 inch long which will give you a


small reveal

A small reveal will let your door seal against


the elements but will also make a small
bump at the top of the ramp.

Ledger
Measure and cut a 2x4 ledger the width of the door. You don't need to make the ramp
the full width of the door but that's usually best. Cut the end board the same length.
Temporarily attach this ledger with 2 screws about 1 1/4 inches below floor level, or the
final level of the ramp in case you want a reveal.

First joist
Cut a single ramp joist about 45 inches long. This is longer than necessary as the final
length will depend on the height of the ramp and will be determined by trial and error.
Hold the joist approximately in place and mark where it touches the ground. Dig out till
the top edge is about flush with ground level.
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Joist angle
Hold the top end of the joist up to the outside edge of the ledger and mark the angle on
the side of the joist. Cut this angle.

Joist length
Lay the plywood in place, top edge on the ledger and bottom edge on the ground. Hold
the joist in place up to the bottom of the plywood and measure back 1 1/2 inches from
the bottom edge of the plywood to allow for the end 2x4 and mark the joist length.
This is the final length. Cut the other (3) joists to match this angle and length.

Assemble frame
Remove the ledger and mark it so the 4 joists are spaced about evenly. Transfer these
layout marks to the end board and also to the top and bottom edges of the plywood.
Assemble this frame with 2 long deck screws at the end of each joist.

Install frame
Excavate the lower end of the ramp so it rests about ground level.
Temporarily attach this frame with 2 screws and lay the plywood in place to check for
proper height. Remove the plywood and permanently attach the ledger with a long
screw on each side of the joists into the shed floor joist.
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Back fill the lower end of the frame.

Install sheeting
Lay the sheeting in place and attach with deck screws every 6 to 8 inches.

Paint?
This ramp will be exposed to the weather
for a long time so you might want to paint it
to extend it's life and keep it looking fresh.

Alternatives
There are many ways to build a shed ramp.
One alternative is to skip the ledger and end
board and attach the ramp joists directly to
the floor joist with metal hangers. This will
save you a little time and excavation effort.
The down side is that the top and bottom
edge of the sheeting will not be fully
supported. But it will still work just fine.

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Other
Here are a few pictures you can use if you need something to submit to your
homeowners association.

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