Collagen is actually a group of proteins

found naturally in the body, mostly in our

connective or fibrous tissues. In fact, its
the most abundant protein we have,
accounting for about 30 percent of the
protein content of the human body.
Elastin is a highly elastic protein in
connective tissue and allows many tissues in
the body to resume their shape after
stretching or contracting. Elastin helps skin
to return to its original position when it is
poked or pinched.
Elastin is also a protein found in connective
tissuesbut a different type of protein than
collagen. It has the actual property of being
elastic. Its responsible for allowing tissues
in the body to snap back to their original
shape after being stretched or contracted.
For this reason, its often compared to a
rubber band.
Elastin is found in artery walls, in the lungs,
in the intestines, and of course, in the skin.
Imagine how blood vessels expand, for
instance, when the blood pumps through, but
then contract again as they empty. Or how
you can pull your skin back, but when you
let go, it returns to its normal shape. Elastin
is responsible for these actions.
Collagen and elastin work together to create
skin strength, firmness, and shape.
From the day we are born, our skin
experiences
the
incremental
and
cumulative effects of intrinsic and extrinsic
aging. When we are young, stem cell
utilization for skin rejuvenation functions
efficiently. As we age, it reduces
significantly.

EXTRINSIC AGING
Extrinsic aging is often referred to as
photoaging since it is predominantly caused
by ultraviolet exposure over long periods of
time. UV rays break down collagen and
elastin and slow the production of new
collagen which aids in skin repair and gives
skin its strength. Above all, sun exposure is
the number one reason the skin ages.
Below are some of the other major extrinsic
factors that cause premature aging of the
skin that can actually be controlled.
Repeated facial expressions lead to fine
lines and wrinkles and as the skin loses
elasticity, the skin doesnt spring back to its
original state. Sleeping position also has a
similar effect since the skin is pressed up
against the pillow for so many hours night
after night. Sleeping on your back
minimizes the chance of these types of
wrinkles
from
occurring.
Smoking speeds up the aging process
significantly for many reasons. Repeated
facial movements for smoking can cause
mouth and lip wrinkles. On a much more
serious level, chemicals from cigarettes are
absorbed into the bloodstream constricting
tiny blood vessels, resulting in less oxygen
and nutrients reaching the skin. The supply
of collagen is broken down in smokers,
slowing the skins repair and renewal
process resulting in wrinkles, loss of
elasticity
and
dryness.
Alcohol consumption deteriorates the skinprotecting, antioxidant Vitamin A supply in
the skin. Alcohol causes dilation of the
blood vessels in the skin contributing to a

blotchy, uneven look which may become

permanent with excessive drinking. Alcohol
can also lead to liver damage which results
in a sallow and dull complexion.
Poor diets lacking in protective,
antioxidant vitamins found in fruits and
vegetables lead to unhealthy looking skin.
Foods rich in Omega-3 fatty acids like tuna
and salmon give antioxidant and antiinflammatory protection for the skin and
body. Too much sugar consumption over
long periods of time has been shown to age
skin prematurely due to a process in the
body called glycation. The end products of
this natural process harm the good collagen
in the skin leading to wrinkles and loss of
elasticity.

Over the past two years, there

have been an increased number of
articles on stem cells and their use
in skin care products. This
information can be confusing and
sometimes misleading. Before we
can adequately talk about the use
of stem cells in skin care products,
we must first define what a stem
cell is and its function and purpose
in any organism.
it is impossible to incorporate live
materials into a skincare product.
Instead, companies are creating
products with specialized peptides and
enzymes or plant stem cells which,
when applied topically on the surface,
help protect the human skin stem cells

from damage and deterioration or

stimulate the skin's own stem cells.
Why Stem Cells?

Multicellular organisms (plants, fruits,

animals, humans) have stem cells. They
are found throughout our bodies, where
they can play an essential role in tissue
renewal. Stem cells just below the
surface of the skin can help with
restorative functions, such as cellular
regeneration, and may ultimately
enhance the capacity to repair aging
skin, says Gilbert. The real beauty of
stem cells, however, is that they have
the amazing ability to develop into many
different types of cells. Where skin care
is concerned, the theory is that by
applying a product that contains stemcell extracts derived from plants or fruits,
you may encourage the growth of your
skins own stem cells and possibly
trigger their anti-aging effects.

First to the market in Britain in April 2007

and the U.S. was ReVive's Peau
Magnifique, priced at a staggering
1,050. Manufacturers claim it uses an
enzyme called telomerase to "convert
resting adult stem cells to newly-created
skin cells' and 'effectively resets your
skin's "ageing clock" by a minimum of five
years'. The product claims long-term use
'will result in a generation of new skin
cells, firmer skin with a 45 per cent
reduction in wrinkles and increased longterm skin clarity'.
Amatokin by
Voss
Laboratories.
Amatokin works by stimulating the adult

stem cell reservoirs in our skin to help

rejuvenate it. From the day we are born,
our skin experiences the incremental and
cumulative effects of intrinsic and extrinsic
aging. When we are young, stem cell
utilization for skin rejuvenation functions
efficiently. As we age, it reduces
significantly.
Given
the
proper
environment, these inherent stem cell
reservoirs can be stimulated to renew the
skin.
Studies show that aging and damage
from UV rays and pollution cause a
decrease in stem-cell production. Pincelli
and LVMH laboratories in 2008 identified
key ingredients with the ability to protect
the stem cells from external factors and
produced Dior's Capture R60/80 XP In
lab tests, skin samples collected from
cosmetic-surgery patients showed more
stem cells in the areas where cream had
been applied because it protects
existing stem cells from damage, not
because it increased the number of
stem cells. Says Dr. Pincelli 'That power
is
absolutely
vital
for
epidermal
regeneration and for maintaining the
skin's youthful appearance'.
Further research:
"Adult skin heals via an inflammatory
response, involving macrophages and
type 1 collagen.
On the other hand, fetal skin, when it is
healing, relies heavily on the skin's stem
cells and fibroblasts".
One of the most important differences
between adult and fetal skin is the fact
that fetal skin heals without scarring. A
wrinkle is a small wound, For this reason

Petrikovsky has been looking at ways we

can activate the adult stem cells in the
skin to perform in similar ways to those in
fetal skin. One substance he has found
that can upregulate the stem cell activity
of adult skin isPeptide 199, an amino acid
chain derived from the Wharton Jelly, a
gelatinous substance found in the
umbilical cord. This upregulation ensures
the fibroblast dominance over the
inflammatory process during skin repair,
mimicking the process that occurs in fetal
skin, healing without a scar or wrinkle.

Wharton's
jelly (substantia
gelatinea funiculi umbilicalis) is a
gelatinous substance within the
umbilical cord also present in
vitreous humor of the eyeball,
largely
made
up
of
mucopolysaccharides (hyaluronic
acid and chondroitin sulfate). It also
contains some fibroblasts and
macrophages.
The inflammatory
response (inflammation) occurs
when tissues are injured by
bacteria, trauma, toxins, heat, or
any other cause. The damaged
cells release chemicals including
histamine, bradykinin, and
prostaglandins. These chemicals
cause blood vessels to leak fluid
into the tissues, causing swelling.

THE BOTTOM LINE

Stem cells arent yet the miraculous
anti-ageing treatment they are

proclaimed to be, but they may

have some benefits for the skin
after all. Because stem cells used in
skincare are mostly derived from
plants, they may have antioxidant
properties. So do many other
ingredients, though, so this is not a
good enough reason to invest in an
expensive cream with stem cells.

Lifeline Skin Care is focused on

One day scientists may find a way to

stem cells.

use human stem cells to rejuvenate skin

and fight premature ageing. But that day
is a long way away. Till then, dont
waste money on creams with stem
cells.

understanding the ever-evolving cellular

structure of skin. Our products improve
the look of your skin by working at the
cellular level.
The unique challenge was how to create
the extracts from living non-embryonic

Our stem cell skin care products include

patented extracts from non-embryonic
human stem cellsthe same highlypotent stem cells that are active early in
life. These extracts contain peptides,
amino acids, and enzymes that help to
increase collagen and elastin.
We encapsulate these extracted stem
cell proteins inside nanospheres to
ensure the proteins remain active in our
stem cell skin care.
Lifeline Skin Care also utilizes small
molecule technology with collagen
boosting benefits and retinol-like results
to help smooth, repair and restore skin
to its former beauty.
Lifeline then adds specialized
antioxidants, vitamins, minerals and
other focused ingredients to create our
creams, serums and complexes.

Where Do They Come From?

The stem cells in beauty products are

If we look at skin that has only endured normal

intrinsic or chronological aging, without

obtained primarily from plants and fruits

environmental influences, it is smooth and

that can stay fresh for a long time, like

generally unblemished. There are exaggerated

Swiss apples, edelweiss, roses, date

expression lines on the skin, but by and large,

palms, and gotu kola (a swamp plant).

the skin is well preserved. Under the

Extracts of these stem cellsnot the

microscope, we will see some signs of aging,

live cells themselvesare added to

skin-care products. Its not possible to

which include a flattening of the epidermal-

maintain live stem cells in cosmetic

dermal interface and some breakdown of the

emulsions, says Zoe Diana Draelos, a

dermal tissue.

consulting professor of dermatology at

In direct contrast, extrinsically-aged skin (such

the Duke University School of Medicine,

as that found on our face, hands and chest) is

in Durham, North Carolina. If a product

wrinkled, sallow in color and has areas of hyper-

is labeled as a stem-cell cream or

serum, you may see some of the stem

and hypopigmentation. Skin may show a loss of

cells key substances, such as ferulic

tone and elasticity, increased fragility, areas of

acid, ellagic acid, and quercetin, listed

purpura caused by blood vessel weakness and

on the ingredient panel. To yield the

benign lesions such as keratoses, telangiectasis

most potent, stable extract, the fruits

and skin tags. Under the microscope, discreet

and the plants that are the source of the

stem cells must be cultivated in a
controlled environment, without any

changes are evident in the collagen and elastin,

which are now fragmented and thick, indicative

contaminants, says Draelos. This

of the cross-linking that is associated with

unique and precise extraction

wrinkle formation.

technology can drive the cost of these

Scientists have found more modern ways to

products to $100 and upward.

address the issue of wrinkles, skin discoloration,

the breakdown of collagen and elastin,
dehydration and the slowdown of cell turnover
through understanding the biochemical reactions
that trigger these structural changes.

Wrinkles

erratic melanocyte activity that is the result of

Wrinkles are depressions in the skins surface

cumulative Ultraviolet (UV) exposure. This is

that may be coarse or fine, depending on their

often associated with hypopigmentation (white

depth. Wrinkle depth may extend from a few

spots), which also accompanies aging. The

micrometers to several millimeters. Coarse

result is a mottled, older skin appearance made

wrinkles, often referred to as expression lines,

up of darker and depigmented areas. When we

appear on the forehead, outer corners of the

see an increase in yellow coloration in aged

eyes (crows feet) and as vertical lines on either

skin, it is the result of a decrease in brown

side of the mouth (laugh lines). Fine wrinkles are

melanin pigment along with a decline in red and

the shallower network of lines or indentations

blue-colored capillaries. In the case of cigarette

that appear on our skin, especially in areas of

smokers, the toxins cause a breakdown of

facial movement (such as the eyes, mouth,

elastin that also contributes to the yellow color of

upper lip, etc.).

skin. This overall skin discoloration is often

Wrinkles occur as a result of:

accompanied by an increase in broken veins.

A reduction in muscle mass and skin

While hyperpigmentation is most often

thickness

Cross-linking of collagen and elastin in the

dermis

Dehydration of the Stratum Corneum (SC)

This results in visible wrinkles on the surface of
the skin and a loss of mechanical strength and
elasticity.
Skin Discoloration
Changes in skin color are often associated with
aging. Skin color is a composite of red, blue,
yellow and brown coloration. This is the result of
red oxygenated hemoglobin, yellow carotenoids
and flavins and the brown melanin pigment of
our skin. Hyperpigmentation spots are due to

associated with skin aging, we also see

hypopigmentation due to a reduction in the
number of melanocytes; there is a decline of 68% per decade after age 30, which accounts for
the lighter skin color. This not only leads to a
reduction in melanin (hypopigmentation), but it
also accounts for a diminished protective
capacity against UV exposure. Along with the
decline in melanocytes, there is a reduction in
both the number and functionality of the other
dendritic cells of the epidermis (the Langerhans
cells), which creates a lowered immune
response for the skin. This results in decreased

immune surveillance, which may account for the

elastosis is considered a hallmark of photoaged

heightened incidence of premalignant and

skin. This is characterized by an accumulation of

malignant lesions in aging skin.

amorphous elastin protein and a breakdown in

Breakdown of Collagen and Elastin

the typical structural layout, which results in

The majority of age-dependent changes that

decreased skin elasticity and tensile strength.

occur in our skin happen in the dermis, which

This phenomenon accounts for why more

can lose from 20-80% of its thickness during the

mature skin takes longer to assume its original

aging process. This is the result of changes in

position when extended or pulled.

the fibroblasts, the cells responsible for collagen,

Dehydration

elastin and glycosaminoglycan (GAG)

Like the collagen and elastin proteins of the

biosynthesis. Not only is the collagen and elastin

dermis, the ground substance, or intercellular

produced at a slower rate, which impacts the

glue, that holds these proteins in place also

skins inability to repair itself, but the

undergoes age-related changes. There is less

organization of the protein also changes,

ground substance as we age, and distribution of

affecting the skins structure.

GAGs, such as Hyaluronic Acid, changes as

The breakdown of collagen and elastin is

well. Studies have shown that the amount of

controlled by the activity of Matrix

Hyaluronic Acid found in the dermis starts to

Metalloproteinase (MMP) enzymes known as

diminish as early as our forties. This loss, along

collagenase and elastase, respectively. Studies

with a comprised barrier layer in the epidermis,

have shown that UV radiation activates these

is most likely the cause of dehydration and loss

enzymes within hours of UVB exposure. Long-

of turgidity, which contributes to altered elasticity

term elevation of the MMPs, which is typically

in aging skin.

found in people with prolonged exposure to

In addition to dehydration in the dermis, studies

sunlight, results in disorganized and clumped

have indicated a reduction in the moisture

collagen and elastin that is characteristic of

content of the epidermal Stratum Corneum (SC),

photodamaged skin.

which is most likely due to a reduction in the SC

Changes in elastin fibers are so characteristic in

lipids, resulting in an inefficient ability to bind

photoaged skin that the condition known as

and retain water. The result is the appearance of

fine lines and scales. Fortunately, application of

photoaged skin, such as wrinkles and loss of

moisturizers and the regular use of exfoliants (in

elasticity. Today, we can more effectively treat

particular, exfoliants containing Lactic Acid) can

this skin condition by addressing the actual

alleviate this problem.

biochemical reactions that trigger these

A Slowdown of Cell Turnover

structural changes. Understanding these

A discussion of the effects of aging on the

structural changes that occur in the epidermis

epidermis would not be complete without

and dermis, as well as the biochemical reactions

including the effects of aging on cell turnover

that trigger them, will give us greater success in

rates. Studies indicate that the epidermal

their treatment.

turnover rate slows from 30-50% between our

thirties and eighties. Studies have demonstrated
that in young adults, the Stratum Corneum
transit time was as quick as 20 days, whereas in
older adults it stretched to 30 days or more.
This prolonged Stratum Corneum replacement
rate also coincides with a subsequent slowing of
the wound healing process that is typical in older
people. In fact, doctors report that older patients
take twice as long to re-epithelialize after
dermabrasion / resurfacing procedures when
compared to younger patients. The slowdown in
the cell cycle is combined with a less-thanefficient desquamation process, and it accounts
for the characteristic dull, rough skin surface
seen in maturing skin.
Understanding Biochemical Reactions
The treatment of skin aging used to rely on
addressing the structural manifestations of