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digesting difference
Penny Van Esterik
Abstract: This paper explores the relationship between food and
national identity in ancient Siam and modern Thailand, as
represented in the texts and films linked to Anna Leonowens,
particularly Anna and the King and The King and I. While the
fictional romantic relationship between the IndoBritish
governess and King Mongkut (Rama IV) has been critically
analysed, little attention has been paid to the state banquet organized by the king. In 1860s Siam, state banquets provided an
opportunity to demonstrate the civilized status of the Siamese
monarch, and hence the kingdom. Developing and building on the
concepts of political commensality and culinary colonialism, the
paper explores the importance of demonstrating civility through
food.
Many readers have no doubt seen one or more of the films, Anna and
the King of Siam (1946), The King and I (1956) and Anna and the King
(1999), and it is equally likely that many readers have eaten some
variety of Thai food. This paper draws these two experiences together
by discussing the state banquet depicted in the texts and films related
to Anna Leonowenss diaries of her years in Bangkok (186267). To
do this, I will look briefly at 1850s and 60s Siam during the reign of
King Mongkut (Rama IV, r 185168), and then examine the textual
and film representations of that historical period in twentieth century
Thailand. History and its representations we choose our fictions.
For Westerners who have never visited Thailand, their image of the
country may well come from seeing The King and I on stage or screen.
The plays and films are roughly based on Margaret Landons book,
Anna and the King of Siam (1944), which was based on Anna
South East Asia Research, 14, 2, pp. 289307
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and why Anna, given her background, could not have made any
significant contribution to the event.
Culinary colonialism
Colonial rule shapes how the past is represented. Thailands narrative
of nation is framed by colonialism made conspicuous by its absence.
As the only South East Asian nation to remain free of direct European
control, Thailand approaches representations of its past with an
unselfconsciousness lacking in other South East Asian nations. Thailand has had no experience of dismantling colonial states and institutions,
and as a nation state, has been interpreted by historians as demonstrating a continuity of social, political, economic and cultural structures
uniquely Thai. Thus nationalism must have a different rationale in Thailand, one based on avoiding colonization rather than experiencing it.
As a non-colonized but informally colonized nation, Siam benefited
from not having to fight old enemies who were now under colonial rule
(Burma, Malaysia, Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam). Their old enemies
were too weak to fight and their new enemies, too strong. This allowed
Siam to be more selective and open to Western and European influence
than its neighbours whose exposure to the West was structured and
controlled through colonial institutions. In practical terms, this eased
the adoption of things foreign and their redefinition as Siamese or, since
1939 when Siam became Thailand (meaning the land of the free), as
Thai.
Recent research on colonialism has used sexuality and race to
explore political domination, but neglected food (cf McClintock, 1995;
Stoler, 1995, 2002). Consider how important food must have been as
an index of the colonial experience. New processing techniques
invented in England provided industrial foods that made long sea
voyages possible tinned biscuits, preserves, canned meats (cf Goody,
1982). Colonial troops and their families would miss the foods of home,
but could make do with tea and tinned biscuits as markers of their
familiar meal formats. Without full colonial institutions in place in Siam,
Europeans brought from Singapore what foods they could ship in, or
ate local food. Culinary colonialism operates in more than one
direction; today, Thai cuisine has more appeal than British cuisine for
dining out in North American restaurants. (The evolution of Thai as
the favoured flavour in urban EuroAmerican restaurants is a topic for
another paper.)
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While The King and I can and has been read as a colonial, orientalist
representation of Thailand (Donaldson, 1992; Manderson, 1997), such
critiques ignore the paradox of how deeply the Siamese elite assumed
the superiority of their own country over others in the region, and even
the colonizing countries, yet how completely and easily they absorbed
and internalized the presentational style of Victorian England.
Love of country and the assumption of its superiority over others
were not new in Siam (nor are they absent in modern Thailand). Marcelo
de Ribadeneyra, writing in 1601 (of events in 1582) observed that:
The Siamese reportedly loved their country loyally and would do anything to prove that Siam was better than any other kingdom or nation
(cited in Cortes, 1984, p 424). Thus the quest for the siwilai [civilized]
was not simply a reaction to colonial threat, but confirmation of the
relative superiority of Siam (Thongchai Winichakul, 2000, p 529).
Further, the Siamese were warned by government officials not to tam
kon farang literally, to follow the Westerners behinds, or to tag
along behind Westerners (Thongchai Winichakul, 1994, p 7). In the
words of a Thai scholar and member of the Thai nobility:
It is not enough to go to a foreign country to acquire specific skills,
but that it is more desirable to be able to imbibe that foreign culture
in all its aspects so that one can glean out what is good for ones own
country. (Chetana, 1994, p xxxii)
However, the state banquet provided an ideal opportunity to challenge
colonial stereotypes. The state banquet brought together Siamese and
British officials at a very tense moment. Siams relations with Britain
were already strained following rumours of British invasions of southern Siam in the 1820s and 30s. Conflict between British and Siamese
warships over Trengganu on the Malay coast in 1862 heightened the
threat of colonial takeover. Moreover, Bangkok had become a major
trading port. The number of modern vessels visiting the city increased
from 146 in 1850 to 301 in 1862, the year Anna arrived from Singapore. The year after she left Siam (1868), commercial transactions had
increased from baht5.6 million in 1850 to 10 million (Roussos, 1994,
p 69).
Old Siam and the modern Thai state have expressed concern about
how national identity is expressed within the country and represented
outside. When individuals from different countries first come into
contact with each other, they focus attention on certain cultural
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Political commensality
Sharing food is the most basic means of creating and maintaining
social relationships. Refusal to share is a clear sign of distance and
enmity (Bloch, 1998, p 133). True at the level of individual and household, it is equally true of states. But what does the nation state eat?
Moreover, how does the relationship between individual eating and
eating the nation state become established? In Thai, to rule is to kin
meuang, to eat the state.
State banquets are a formal means of establishing relationships
between countries. To accept food offered without testing for poison,
or insisting on the foods of home, are signs of trust and openness to
other experiences of life. For there is always an inherent risk in eating
the food and accepting the generosity of the other. Rituals and rules
ease the transition somewhat, but nevertheless, political commensality
can be risky. Thus, state banquets were fraught with tensions, as the
palace officials balanced consuls, merchants and missionaries
(Protestant and Catholic), who were easily offended by perceived slights
(cf Roussos, 1994, p 83).
State banquets are transcultural encounters where public diplomacy
and intimate personal acts collide to reveal asymmetries of power
between individuals and states. To the British diplomats visiting Siam
in the 1860s, the familiar order and sumptuous appearance of the
banquet table would powerfully contradict the prevailing colonial
representation of King Mongkut as a barbarian ruling over an
uncivilized country undeserving of political autonomy, in need of
imperial guidance.
The Thai remain exceptionally skilled in the games of political
commensality. The Siamese outshone other South East Asian courts
in diplomatic courtesy, choosing not to humiliate visiting others, but
rather to emulate them and provide whenever possible meals that would
be familiar to them. This practice was so well established that Bowring
had to ask to be served a genuine Siamese repast. He writes:
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Anna transformed
Before returning to the transformation of the texts and films in which
the state banquet was represented, there is an additional fiction to
unravel Annas own biography and autobiography. Her false past
was unknown even to her family, who believed she was born in Wales
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Conclusions
To explain why Anna should not be credited with orchestrating the
state banquet featured in text and film, we need to return to the argument that Anna not only fabricated her relationship with the royal family
and experiences in the palace, but also her own biography. She was
clearly an extraordinary woman, but not one steeped in the intricacies
of Victorian manners or court etiquette. The woman who was born in
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Newspapers/magazines
Bangkok Post
Mr. Showbiz
Nation
Films
1946: Anna and the King of Siam, Twentieth Century Fox
1956: The King and I, Twentieth Century Fox
1999: Anna and the King, Twentieth Century Fox
1999: Anna Leonowens: Getting to Know You (video recording), History Channel and
BBC worldwide.