Académique Documents
Professionnel Documents
Culture Documents
By Alain SANIARD
REPERTOIRE
Mechanical restrictions on JC22 Barrel drawing Fr & UK electronic restrictions on JC22
De-restricting top engine other restrictions (cutting shunt on CI639 & overview)
Top-end rebuild , schedule , barrel & piston sizes polishing head bolts precautions
Buying a JOLLYMOTO how to fit it Irridium sparkplugs carbon reed
Dismantling carb ,tray , access to RC control unit, taking off CDI, locking servo-motor
the Carburettor : Dismantling , float tank level , jetting , various tricks
Electronic de-restrictions : CDI & RC valves control unit
The workshop manual (English) Micro-fiches shock absorbers starter repair
Batteries : charging & checking RC Valves sequence of working
Periodic maintenance Ignition bug ? help ? what to check
DIY a flywheel puller
Fairing repairs chain & sprockets kit the air box filter modifications
Which Tyres Working on Brakes (liquid change , air draining ,back light switches)
Bugs watch and where to look for
Headlights & bulbs Leds Tuning : Clocks modifications (taking off)
Clocks screens (dismantling and replacing) Sealing paste
various Greasing (oil pump, cables, gear box drainer) , forks , chain a nice windscreen
Servo-motor & CDI function principles
R/C opening Diagrams (comparison UK & FR)
CARB size 34 install
Replacement LEDS
Page
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22-23
THE DE-RESTRICTION
The only common restriction to the JC22 and JC20 is the muffler (see 125nsr.free.fr)
BARREL JC22 Fr
The CDI unit has the advance timing limited around 10000 rpm
The RC valves control unit has opening limited at 70% (TV-124 model see page 13)
TOP-END REBUILD
SCHEDULE
- 7500 miles (12000 kms) rings change
- 15000 miles (24000 kms) piston & rings change
- 22500 miles (36000 kms) top-end change
All these operations need de-coking , barrel & head polishing and these spares :
piston pin , 2 clips , small end bearing
base cylinder seal , cylinder head gasket , oil seal (valves crank)
BARREL-PISTON SIZES
115
22
7.50
6.50
2.10
1.75
7.50
2.55
19.78
19.78
17.12
18.81
4.55
6.50
20
0.69
Ph : 01728 833 020 (prices ex VAT &
OTHER DE-RESTRICTIONS
CUTING THE SHUNT ON CI639
The cut of the bridge which one sees the position
on the figure of left would make it possible to
cancel the effect of spluttering beyond 10500
RPM and would get a slightly higher torque. After
having released and having cut this shunt, it is
recommended to weld a switch before filling
there the hole with adhesive or silicone, not to
have to reopen if you are not happy
- To adjust the jets for the JC22 with 135,42,60 and if you fit a race exhaust or de-restrict your genuine
138,42,65 Jets available http://www.dellorto.co.uk (10 shipping 3 days)
- to mount a race system, nearby prices (210-250) or on EBAY :
a) JOLLYMOTO 402 silencers Aluminium or carbon: light, good heat exchange, maximum longevity,
ideal efficiency http://www.jollymoto.it
b) GIANELLI lower output, good longevity, good heat exchange, black point: no guarantee if defects of
welding. http://www.giannelli.com/eng/prodotti/lin.asp?id=43
- Mount sparkplugs IRRIDIUM http://www.sparkplugs.co.uk (BR9EIX or BR10EIX at 6.84 ex VAT)
- Mount reed valves carbon http://www.blue-oil-france.com/default.php?cPath=210 (23)
The model for our NSR is the 402, Aluminium can 205 , carbon can 245, prices including all taxes
and delivery . How to proceed:
- send me a pm with your name, address, email or phone (no mobile), kind of silencer wanted and to
await my answer (I pass a mail to the boss and a phone call to see whether all is OK)
- if all is well, I pass to you a mail with the banking co-ordinates of JOLLYMOTO and the total bill ,
then you go under 48H at your bank to carry out a wire with their co-ordinates or billing invoice that it
sends to me (and that I forward to you)
- You will receive your package 10 to 15 days after their account will be credited (3 to 5 days wrought)
IRRIDIUM SPARKPLUGS
ADVANTAGES:
- Better distribution of the spark thus more powerful lighting and smoother engine
- Saving in fuel (yes, yes!!) profit 1/2 to 3/4 L on full tank, lifespan doubles **
DISADVANTAGES:
- they are expensive 6.84 ex. VAT
THERMAL INDEX:
- October-April of normal use BR9EIX , May-September or intensive use BR10EIX **
** A clogged exhaust, an engine coked or with piston-rings worn, a too rich adjustment, too
much oil can even clog this type of plug, clean and that sets out again
TEST the STATE of YOUR ENGINE with The SPARK PLUG
http://www.dansmc.com/Spark_Plugs/Spark_Plugs_catalog.html
CARBON REEDS
They are worth 23. http://www.blue-oil-france.com/default.php?cPath=210 ref : 360451
They are not BOYSEN (expensive, more torque in bottom) or AKTIVE (even more expensive, more
torque in top) but that is worth the blow. Profit of power, flexibility engine, performances increased in
top on all the beach of use
- take off tank (1 bolt in the back , watch the fixing bits , do not loose one) and air box (2 bolts then unscrew
the fixing collar with the carb , live it on the pipe)
- disconnect any pipe coming in the carb (hold the oil pipe [the black rubber pipe] as high as possible lock it on
the right side with a piece of wire)
- undo the screw on top of the choke and pull it out , undo the 2 screws on top of the throttle and pull it out (do
not dismantle)
- unscrew the collar between carb and intake pipe , then carb is your's
TAKING OFF THE PLASTIC TRAY
This tray holds servo-motor assembly and connectors protection in a cubic box and need to be taken off
when you want access underneath (especially for the RC valves control unit)
It has on the left side a fixing bolt , and on the right side 2 hollow bumps where go 2 rubber bits . these bits
have a hole , onto the frame it's 2 pins which receive the rubbers and hold them , so to take the tray off you
must escape these 2 pins horizontally or slightly lifted from the left
DISMOUNTING
- On the left side you see a cubic box (about 2"x2") , it has a plastic lock , push that and open the cover
- Unplug the servo-motor connector and the loose wire , take out the servo loom from the 2 hooks on the tray
- The servo has a holder with 2 bits , press them and it will come out (it's not necessary to dismantle anything ,
just take off cables from stopper and put on side)
- The tray has a screw (diameter 6 , use a 10 socket) , so undo it , unplug the connectors (when refitting you
cannot make a mistake they are different)
- Only from the left , lift up a bit the tray and pull it right to left , it will come out
THE CARBURETTOR
CARB should be cleaned at the approach of the winter to avoid starting bugs . To blow the jets with the
compressed air or using bomb easy to find in data processing. clean the strainer. There is however some care to
take and in particular the position of the brass strip located between the 2 floats, because its position determines
the height of gasoline in the float chamber. If you fold it to the top you will decrease the height of gasoline, and
to the bottom you will increase. In theory it is regulated for a height of gasoline of 24mm. it could happen, if
you fall down, that this strip (it is slim, 4 or 5/10 mm) be distort or that the punch himself wedge in its housing.
This will be able to cause a flooded CARB and you will have to adjust all that. How to proceed? Use the
draining screw , with the little pipe drain the fuel in a little bottle . take off float chamber hold the big screw to
block the hole then put the drained fuel in the chamber . now the height can be seen
On the left ,see how works the float valve (languette flotteur = brass strip , entre essence = fuel entry)
ELECTRONIC DE-RESTRICTIONS
Couleur Fr
Noir/blanc
Rouge/noir
vert
bleu
Rouge/blanc
Noir/jaune
Vert/blanc
Colour Uk
Black/white
Red/black
green
blue
Red/white
Black/yellow
Green/white
Va (Fr)
Contact cl
Charge CDI
masse
Capteur allumage
vitesseValves RC
Etincelle+compteur
Scurit bquille
Go to (Uk)
Start key
CDI charge
ground
Ignition timing
RC valves timing
Spark+tachometer
Security stand
You can note that the black/yellow & green wires are reversed, it is necessary thus, if you fit a UK CDI unit on
a French bike to make the following manipulation: On the 4 wires connector 4 leaving the loom, use tweezers
with sharp ends. Side opposed to the entry of wire you can see the end of the 4 terminals, introduce a end
between the plastic and the terminal (that frees the stop) and pull out gently the wire .You do that with
black/yellow and the green, then cross them and refit in the connector. In addition, whilst the two terminals are
out, grip them a little to optimize the contacts (a small pliers with fine nozzles is perfect). In more pay attention
to push well the terminal inside the bottom of the connector. This CDI unit is negotiated on EBAY around 45
(it becomes rare) but is worth 87 new including all taxes, in the same way for the R/C valves unit (less rare)
and which is worth 130
RC Valves CONTROL UNIT
The Case to be gone up is TV-78 the U.K. & IT (31810 KBS 901), no modifications to do, dismounts the TV124 (31810 KBS 621) and replace by the TV-78 (see diagrams in page 13). This case allows an opening of the
valves 90-95% however the TV-124 plus the FREDO plate (see http://www.geneva-racing.ch/~davnav/ )
produced the same effect and will cost you only approximately 12 because it will be necessary for you to
equip it with a connector to ensure the reliability of the system (see http://www.gotronic.com )
Since 1993 (beginning of JC22) not a lot of spares, except fairings, have been changed, prior of 1993
the name was JC20. Honda references of new parts for the JC22 have been changed from KY4 to KBS
http://www.geneva-racing.ch/~alains/NSRmanualDOC.zip (whole manual) 64,3 Mo
Electrical wiring
- http://www.geneva-racing.ch/~alains/schema_R.jpg
- http://www.geneva-racing.ch/~alains/schema_F.jpg
NSR125R
NSR125F
http://www.geneva-racing.ch/~alains/NSR125refs.zip
Fairings & stickers 1999-2001
http://www.geneva-racing.ch/~alains/nsr125deco.zip
SHOCK ABSORBERS
For the JC20, trade mark BETOR price 100 top-of-the-range and adjustable, delivered in 3 days (wrought).
Recall: HONDA price 200
http://bikerevival.co.uk/page1.html
Important infos
The Shock absorbers for JC22 have several differences: fixings are in diameter 10 (8 on the JC20) , the length
is 295 mm (instead of 270) . I did not find yet a BETOR for JC22, I wait until the manufacturer wants to give
me information, on this subject. I seek also other marks because the Honda are really too expensive!
BATTERIES
There are 2 types of batteries: the lead-acid batteries and the batteries iron-nickel the batteries motor bikes are
all containing lead and of electrolyte (liquid mixture) acid sulphuric at 28. They are made up of plates covered
with an amalgam whose composition imports us little. Each element has a voltage of 2.2 Volts at the end of the
charge and 1.8 Volts at the end of the discharge. A battery of 12 V is thus made up of 6 elements (6 V = 3
elements) what gives 13.2 Volts at the end of the charge and 10.8 Volts at the end of the discharge. The battery
capacity is measured in Ampere-hour (Ah) and is a function of the surface of the plates, the quantity of matter
on these plates and of the volume of electrolyte. With the use the plates are degraded and the quantity of matter
on them is reduced, which leads the battery to have a reduced capacity. A battery which charges heating (touch
it at the time of an external loading) and more the current (intensity in A) is strong, plus it heats. That causes a
deformation of the plates with loss
matter important: a run down battery freezes with approximately -10 and you can throw it if it has frozen
CHARGING HIS BATTERY
A lead-acid battery does not like a fast charge, it is always necessary to charge with a maximum current of 10%
of its capacity, that is to say 0.5 A for a NSR (capacity 5Ah) during 8 to 12H. After a load, let the battery cool
down 1 Hour then to measure its terminal voltage. If it does not reach 12.8 Volts change it. Do not assemble it
immediately, take again its voltage 5 to 8 H later and if it lost more than 0.3 volts throw it .
FOOT-NOTE You can make these operations without dismounting the battery, but take care to disconnect the
positive or ground and to connect you directly on the terminals of the battery. Indeed the electronic rectifiers
and circuits do not appreciate, it is thus necessary to isolate all the circuit from the bike.
Translation
Jeu entre arrt et gaine=play between stop&sheath
Contact=key on , ralenti=idle , ressort=spring
Rglage=adjuster, pas de jeu=no play, not tight
The arrow show way of rotation
Note : at idle the valves are on high and stay there as long as rpm do not go over 2000 , otherwise they
will go on low and stay until you go over 7000 (see diagram page 20).
On the JC22 Fr, the positions of these cables are reversed and you must control that the sequence is the same as
shown above
N1
N2
N3
N4
cheers
to
our mate YOYO
if soldering are not very good , doing it was not obvious
and finding the right nut too .
Note : the tool sold by Honda cost 45
HONDA ref : 07KMCHE00100
Soudures = electric soldering
10x150 means : diameter 10 , thread size 150/100 mm
all size are in mm
FAIRING REPAIRS
The plastic is welded with difficulty. For a long slit, to make points all the 2cms while dissolving the plastic
using a soldering iron and to sandpaper the bumps created polyester can go but with use that is not due. There
are various products of repair often rather expensive. For the specific products here an American site :
http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/search/search.aspx?keywords=plastic+repair
UK site : http://www.plastex-uk.com/
holes
pipes
It is simply a question of increasing the elbow of air intake, because this elbow guides the air in box but also it
attenuates the noise of the aspiration. If you make a direct opening in the base beside the elbow the result is a
sucking noise which is increased with RPM , so a broader elbow will partly avoid this . Only problem: with
what and of how much can I do it ? I thought of something simple and that costs peanuts: electric sheath
accordion vulgarly called "CINTRO". to use CINTRO from 14 to 16 interior , bores 2 holes with the diameter
of the CINTRO used (is needed that the passage of the sheath forces a little), drill these holes touching, then
one cuts 2 ends (to heat by the hair drier if it is too stiff) which one forms in elbow with 90 angle , inserts
them in the holes until the interior part arrives at the short-nap cloth of the foam filter without crushing it.
There is not any more but to give the lid (even if that forces a little because this sheath is not very flexible)
and it is good! One turns over the box to air and one cuts the surplus of cintro to maximum 1cm then a
silicone blow to block and to isolate. I must say that I am rather satisfied with the result, little noise and
especially more air available!
WHICH TYRES
To buy tender gums: faster wear but real adherence!!!
To throw: genuine Dunlop ArrowMax MT-75
Are good:
Dunlop SportMax
Bridgestone BT-45
Battlax and BT-39
Michelin Sporty
Pirelli Sport Demon
Balancing: required for the front wheel, optional for the rear wheel (that cannot be bad)
WORKING ON BRAKES
The price difference being marginal, I advise you to fit genuine pads, at least we have no surprise on the quality.
3 things to be reminded :
1) Avoid putting plaques with a deformed disk (less efficiency and premature wear pads)
2) deglaze the surfaces of friction (make some lines crossed with a point
3) run in your pads during around 20 miles
brake liquid replacement
- Undo the cover plate of the reserve and dismantle the calliper
- push back the pistons and take off pads
- undo the joint pipe-caliper over a bowl, all the liquid is going to leave
- fit back the joint without tightening
- fill up the reserve
- when the liquid goes out of the banjo, tighten it fermly
- clean oil everywhere and put back pads and calliper
Air draining
The reserve level must be full and its necessary to unblock the bleeding bolt , because its a conical closure and
you will have problems to unscrew when draining . best tool is an eye-spanner hexagonal, its the only one
which wont cause any damage , you may fit a plastic tube on top avoiding any splash everywhere
1) Pump several times with the handle (or pedal for rear)
2) stay pressed and do not release
3) open bleeding bolt, some liquid or air will go off
4) tighten the bleeding bolt normally without forcing
5) release the handle , every 3 times control liquid level and begin again in 1
when the handle is hard , no air bubbling last time , block bolt seriously and complete level , fit cover
BRAKE SWITCH
Front switch
Its sited under the brake liquid reserve and is operated by a united finger of the handle
In case of not functioning, to check that it is not connection problem .
Disconnect the 2 wires, contact key on then connect wires together, if back light ignites, your switch is worn ,
otherwise you must investigate bug in the wiring . Ref switch 35340 MM5 600 ( ~15 )
Rear switch
Its sited on the frame above the heel of the pedal. it has a spring and its position is adjustable simply by
screwing or unscrewing the 2 nuts. same action as above . if it is OK, put the length at shortest and if that does
not ignite you will have to change the switch , if not adjust length. ref. switch 35350 MT4 000 ( ~14)
rubber at exit of the oil bottle several owners had a leak due to a cracked item .replace it preventively . As it
is necessary to recover remaining oil in the bottle, buy this part and at next filling bottle , change it
ref.: 55107
Ignition terminals
Oxidation of the coil and rev counter feed are very sensitive to oxidation. there it is
necessary for you thus to clean them, tighten them and put a little grease for battery lead connections. the
terminals of the CDI could slackened (those exiting the loom) but can be tightened using tweezers. when you
have intermittent bugs with your ignition , think there in priority
-
Fuse and fuse holder are subject to the same disease (oxidation) the ends are vulnerable because holder is not
waterproof . clean, tighten , grease ends before the plastic. you may also fit aftermarket model accepting large
wire and 15Ampres fuses . certain models to be screwed are perfect
Cold starts are difficult 99% of cases is because your slow jet is too small, replace by a 4 to 6 points bigger .
engine must start in 1s choke on & no acceleration. if this problem persists it is necessary for you to think about a
good carb cleaning, tank (tap), air filter foam & sparkplug change
Bike seems starving remember that the fuel valve works as a loo flush. a awl connected to the floats closes the
fuel line when the chamber level is reached. if this level is too low you have this problem ,also if, because of a
dirt, the awl is stocked close. in general a good cleaning erase the problem but you can try to knock the
carburettor side with a plastic mallet .
Carb overflow same as above with a stocked fuel valve in open position or the float chamber adjusted too
high . first try the plastic mallet
Engine starts OK but dies when hot if your engine is tuned normally it is a characteristic of a faulty choke
which does not return correctly when pushed down . the piston choke has a rubber curvature which closes a hole
when the choke is pushed back. if it does not fully return this hole is not stopped and all the mixture is distorted.
either the pull knob is clogged or it makes a too tight turn. to clean it, dismount it as well as the piston
My idle is too high and I am not able to lower it once again it is a cable problem . the breakdown can have
2 origins. either the cable starts to split (at handle in general) or there is no play at the throttle entry . if no adjuster
exist you can change your throttle cover with adjuster (see DELLORTO 28PHBH/FD ) . in case of splitting cable
you must replace it . this cable starts from the handle goes to a relay where starts 2 bits : 1 goes to the throttle the
other to the oil pump . eventually check for any sharp bends and if you dismount or replace its necessary to
adjust your oil pump
My brake handle squeek handle axis is seized up. dismount, clean , use graphite grease
My brakes react slowly rubber pipes tired, to replace or fit reinforced models (expensive)
My front brakes heat and make noise generally comes from a defective Master-cylinder. front piston of
brake can be changed easily : take off dust seal , with special clips pliers remove the clips then the piston comes
out. replacement kit : reference 45530 KB9 960 (approximately 18)
Brake pads are worn very quickly uneven discs or seized up calliper pistons. in this case dismount the
pistons, clean with waterproof sandpaper 600 with oil and change the seals ref. 06451 KBS 405 (2 seals per
piston approximately 16 )
Bulbs go off quickly the vibrations are your enemy, most fragile bulbs are headlights and rear .
this is why, except for the indicators I recommend a bulbs change with LEDs (see further). the best
headlight are quartz halogen 35/35W (I have had mine for more than 2 years) . you must also check the
charging voltage. the voltage is normally 13,2V at idling and of 14,2V at 5500 RPM & over. the battery
which is used as plug must be in good condition (see higher how to control it)
BULBS
Winkers
-
For aftermarket , buy only models where you can fit 10W bulbs or LED with resistor
Most of have 21 or 23W bulbs which require to change the relay and remember that the generator has a
limited power so some drawbacks can appear (voltage falls , bad battery charging)
Now you can fit leds winker with a change of the relay (see led sites)
Headlights
power max 35W otherwise unit worn within 15 days, best are Halogen 35/35W Ba20d socket
Led bulbs
These bulbs have low consumption, indestructible,colour available .
Use for : back light ,side light and clocks see details page 19
MODIFYING MY CLOCKS
The discs of the meters are only plexiglass on which the graduations are painted , a German manufacturer do
add-on with thick plastic films http://www.wunschtacho.de/
http://cgi.ebay.fr/Honda-NSR-125-TACHOSCHEIBEN-tachoTachofolien_W0QQitemZ150174991017QQihZ005QQcategoryZ49827QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQc
mdZViewItem
Choice of several aspect (colours , mph, Kms/H) .Set of 3 : 28 euros shipping included
Important : these films must be cut out and all holes drilled at the same dimensions before fitting
You can change the bulbs with blue led : set of 4 28 euros (shipping inc) http://www.motorrad-bach.de/
Taking off the clocks
- except deposit the screws of careenage, each side, lowest (the careenage swivels downwards)
- take off mirrors, go and face the windshield, seize the air pipes, make them escaping their entries and pull the
whole block for 4 then disconnect the cable from meter
- disconnect the auxiliary beam right and the indicators, remove the front unit
- remove the 2 fastening screws of the plate support of the meters
- disconnect the 2 connectors on the frame (they have a blocking with strip and are fixed rather hard)
Dismantling the clocks
The foam part wrapping the rev counter and the gauge of temperature is a hub cap (if one can call it as that)
held by 3 plastic bits (in fact is not used for nothing!)
- undo the 4 fastening screws of the back plastic cap and to remove it
- undo the 3 nuts of the plate and pull out lightings dials nicely (they are well tightened)
- turn over the meter and to remove the frontage
My forks
SEALING PASTE
This paste is really the ideal for all your seals, practises, not need to put slices of bread of them, is preserved a
long time (if the tube is well stopped). Resist 180 and +, use for all the oil seals, water and mechanics and in
particular the connections admission. It does not stick the parts and is effective with tightening. It can even
ensure the sealing of a cylinder head gasket. It can slow down a pin of cylinder head at the time of a
disassembling, and on this subject too extremely do not tighten your pins of cylinder head if not station to the
cracks! Thus your pins must be assembled with a paste-brake without excessive tightening, this paste is
different from the paste-joint because it behaves a little as of SINTOFER i.e. it hardens and becomes very hard
to remove. Thus never of excess! But not to forget!!!
the servo is composed by a direct courant motor (white & black/white) , a reducer , a pulley (you see it on the right
side of the bike under the tank) and a potentiometer fitted on its axel . the servo move left or right function of the
voltage and obviously of the RPM . the potentiometer ,fed under 8 volts ,gives on the cursor a certain voltage
,function of its position ,showing the image of the valves position . for exemple the lowest is 2.2 volts , the highest is
5.25 Volts . this voltage is returned to the control box which control if the right position has been reached . you
have 2 connectors on the control box , one with 4 wires and one with 3 wires plus a loose wire (light green) . on the
3 connector one is a white/red which is the number of impulses coming from the CDI to tell the control box at
which rpm you are . if the engine is running youve this info , but as I said nothing else is related with the CDI
consequently if youve a loose contact on this wire or a damaged CDI the info will not come out and the servo will
not move .
HOW WORKS THE CDI
The CDI is composed by a condenser charged under 200 volts AC provided by the 2 big poles of the alternator , a
thyristor which is open by impulse coming from the small coil on the alternator (wires blue and green/white) .
during a rev the condenser charge , then when the small coil produce the impulse , the thyristor opens and the
condenser discharges in the ignition coil . a part of the condenser goes to the counter revs to feed it . the CDI adjust
the ignition advance function of the revs , so its easy electronically to fix le max level of advance .
Whats the advance : more your engine runs at high speed and more you need to have the ignition earlier because
of the time taken to burn the mixture . actually on CI639 the advance is limited at 9800 rpm , on CI626 its 12500
rpm . Also the diagram of advance is more calculated on high rpm for the CI626 and the engine goes up more
smoothly .
Wires allocation :
a) 4 wires connector
- blue
impulses from auxiliary coil
- green
ground
- black/yellow
spark & rev counter feed
- red/white
RPM info to RC/valve control unit
b) 2 wires connector
- black/red
Capacity charge from alternator stator
- Black/white
Key & Kill switch
c) 1 wire round terminal Green/white
security stand
The thick line shows the level of the valves opening and the voltage provided by the control unit
You can see on the French one that the valves are fully open at idle but will open only 70% at 7500 rpm
The UK model is open 95% at idle and will open 95% at 7500 rpm
Bottom-left : foxeye model fitted with an intake pipe found at a car breaker (diameter 70mm)
The others show how it fit with a JC20 (1989-1992) model . as you can see no difference in angle or
diameter fitting . just remember that the foxeye has the pilot & idle screws on the right , earlier models
are on the left .
REPLACEMENT LEDS
http://stores.ebay.fr/warden-jp2002_W0QQcolZ4QQdirZ1QQfsubZ0QQftidZ2QQtZkm
A- 2pcs T10 W5W Wide Angle 6 LED (Spark Blue) Wedge Bulb 3,43
B- 2pcs 501 Wide Angle 4 LED (Spark Blue) Dash Wedge Bulbs 2,60
C- 2pcs 501 W5W Wide Angle 6 LED (White) Dash Wedge Bulbs 3,46
D- 2pcs 158 168 194 T10 W5W 6 LED (Xenon White) Wedge Bulb 3,18
E- 2pcs T5 Wide Angle LED (Spark Blue) Dash Wedge Bulb 1,27
F- 2pcs T5 Wide Angle LED (Xenon White) Dash Wedge Bulb 1,27