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GUIDE
Italian
2017
CITY
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CITY BREAKS 3
66
54
75
47
IN THIS GUIDE
NORTHERN ITALY
7
HIDDEN VENICE
Sara Scarpa takes us beyond the
tourist trail to the places she
knows and loves in her home city
14 VALLE DAOSTA
Chris Allsop takes a voyage of
discovery to Italys smallest region
54 BRESCIA
Amanda Robinson enjoys the rich
heritage of this city close to Milan,
home to the Mille Miglia rally
60 TREVISO
Sara Scarpa explores this pretty
canal-lled Veneto city
CENTRAL ITALY
SOUTHERN ITALY
95 TREKKING IN SARDINIA
Giulia Dessi discovers the delights
of nature in the remoter corners of
sun-soaked Sardinia
102 TAORMINA
Yolanda Zappaterra spends a long
weekend in this friendly Sicilian town
20 VERONA
Lorenza Bacino takes a break in the
star-crossed city of Romeo and Juliet
108 SORRENTO
Hannah Bellis nds out there is more
to this coastal town than sea and sun
26 GENOA
This dramatic coastal city marries
a glorious past with modernity,
says Marina Spironetti
70 WHEN IN ROME
Paul Pettengale makes the most
of a family trip to the Eternal City
114 MATERA
Sally FitzGerald visits Basilicata
where the captivating town of Matera
is literally carved in stone
34 LAKE ORTA
Jane Keightley nds peace and quiet
on one of Italys smallest lakes
41 SECRET MILAN
Marina Spironetti tells you all you
need to know for a visit to the city
82 LUCCA
Charlie Lyon heads to the medieval
Manhattan of Tuscany
47 GOURMET GAVI
Heather Crombie joins in the
celebrations at the towns
famous food festival
88 BOLOGNA
Heather Crombie samples the
foodie delights of the city known
as La Grassa
4 CITY BREAKS
120 CAPRI
Fleur Kinson steps away from the
glitzy hotspots to explore the isles
wonderful walking routes
126 SYRACUSE
Gretta Schiffano explores the
ancient treasures of this UNESCO
World Heritage city
Su
Tu bsc
rn rib
to e &
pa s
ge ave
32 !
7
102
41
LAKE ORTA
p34
p14
MILAN
AOSTA
GAVI
p41
p47
p26
p54
p20
p60
TREVISO
p7
VENICE
VERONA
BRESCIA
p66 p88
GENOA
114
p82
BOLOGNA
LUCCA
p75
FLORENCE
p70
ROME
CAPRI
p95
p120 p108
SORRENTO
SARDINIA
TAORMINA p102
SYRACUSE
p126
p114
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D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
HIDDEN
VENICE
Getting to know Venice is that much easier
when your guide is a Venetian. Sara Scarpa
takes us on a tour of the city she calls home
CITY BREAKS 7
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
Photograph
iSt
ock
ost of my friends
have already been to
Venice at least once
so when they come
to visit me I show
them the side of town that I got to
know by growing up and living here
throughout my childhood and right
into my early adult life. I walk with
them amongst those hidden alleys
and courtyards that, in a frenzy to
cover the postcard-stereotype-touristhotspots, most visitors miss out on...
Venice is a secret itself, right
from its foundations. The surface
hides millions of tree trunks under
the water, which allow its existence.
The city is rich with fascinating
stories and legends. Venice, in its
small, fish-shaped body swimming
in water, has thousands of tiny calli
and many other canals and bridges
to discover. Set your map aside and
get lost wandering through the tiny,
dark and secret alleys, finding hidden
campi, courtyards and gardens. Even
now, even after so many years, even
I sometimes discover some hidden
gems that I have never seen before...
8 CITY
ITALIA!
BREAKS
September 2014
FIRST ITINERARY
THE ARSENALOTTIS SECRETS
AND THE MOST INTIMATE
AREAS OF VENICE
Start your journey from the Arsenale
stop and walk towards the grand
entrance of the Venetian shipyard.
Dont worry about checking the
map, from the Fondamenta you will
immediately spot the high perimetric
walls and the two iconic towers. The
Porta Magna is guarded by four marble
lions which were looted from Greece.
The larger lion on the left was taken by
Francesco Morosini from Piraeus, the
ancient harbour of Athens, and if you
look close enough you will discover on
its body some runic characters in the
shape of a lindworm.
If you look up high above the door
you will notice another lion, this one
winged, with a book open which is
popularly believed to be a symbol of
the time of peace for the Serenissima.
Venice, as you have probably noticed,
is full of lions, which are symbolic
of Venices patron, St Mark the
Evangelist, and therefore of Venice
itself. Lion-spotting in Venice is a
FIRST ITINERARY
Main images
from left: Dusk
from the Rialto
Bridge; the
Arsenale Porta
Magna. Inset
left, top to
bottom: The
Doges Palace;
view from the
Campanile with
St Marks Basilica
and the Doges
Palace. Inset
right: evocations
of the character
of Castello
CITY BREAKS 9
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
SECOND ITINERARY
Above: Views
of the Grand
Canal, from land
and, inset, from
above the prow
of a gondola. You
may have seen
these before,
perhaps even
in person, but
have you been
to the courtyard
of Campiello del
Remer and taken
a spritz with the
locals at Taverna
Al Remer?
SECOND ITINERARY
FROM THE MERCENARY
RIDING A HORSE TO THE
GHOST OF THE TEMPLAR
KNIGHT
Get the vaporetto 5.1 or 5.2 (they
cover the same route but in different
directions). The boats circle the
historic centre of Venice in the north
lagoon and you will admire Venice
from a different perspective. If you get
the boat from the Lido you will see
the back of the Basilica di San Pietro
di Castello, the Certosa island and
the perimetric walls of the Arsenale.
Just before you get off at the Ospedale
(hospital), you can spot the deep green
cypresses contrasting with the pale red
bricks of the walls that surround San
Michele, a small island that has been
serving Venice as a cemetery since
the Austrian occupation, when burial
in the historic centre of Venice was
banned for sanitary reasons. It houses
magnificent family chapels and graves,
themselves works of art. You can see
the graves of Igor Stravinsky and Ezra
Pound among numerous other famous
personalities buried here.
10 CITY
ITALIA!
BREAKS
September 2014
THIRD ITINERARY
A SECRET GARDEN IN VENICE
Venetian gardens are unknown to most people, even to
Venetians themselves. Most of them belong to private
palaces and churches and are therefore difficult to
visit. They represent another of Venices many secrets.
Thanks to Padre Agostinos availability and kindness
we visited, by appointment, the vegetable garden and
orchard of the Redentore church. Here in the buildings
near the garden and the church live 25 Capuchin
friars. In this garden, which extends the whole width
of the Giudecca island, they grow vegetables, fruit,
olives and sunflowers. Peace and silence dominate here.
This shady garden has a stunning view of the Lagoon
and the islands of San Clemente, San Servolo and the
Lido. Here is the best spot to meditate. At our wonder
observing the beauty and size of the produce of the
gardens Father Agostino reminded us that people are
always trying to look for miracles to prove the existence
of God while these miracles are just in front of our eyes.
There is a small church dating back to 1536, prior to
the construction of the church of Redentore, and also a
tiny cemetery for the friars who used to live here. In the
stunning cloister behind the church a functioning well
waters the garden. After spending two years studying
philosophy in Milan, the friars study theology in this
peaceful place for four years. To keep them company
they have chickens, hens and two cats. (The black and
white cat is called Silvestro!) Satisfied with our visit and
wonderful guide we leave the heavenly silentium to go
back to bustle of everyday life
THIRD ITINERARY
Below: Views of the Redentore gardens. In the top image we
see the Lagoon from the gardens; below, looking inland, we
have a view of the back of Andrea Palladios church; and on
the left, cypress trees spring above the gardens. This is where
Father Agostino exhorted us not to search deep in nature for
the miracles that prove Gods work, for here they are laid out
in their splendour before our very eyes.
GETTING THERE
BY PLANE
You can fly to Venice/Treviso from many
local UK airports via budget airlines.
Check details in your area. The airport is
some 20km from Venice itself. You can
fly into Venice Marco Polo airport, which
is right on the shore of the lagoon via
British Airways.
CITY BREAKS 11
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
FOURTH ITINERARY
Above: A
gondoliere takes
his passengers
down a quiet
canal. Inset
right, from top:
Dawn breaks over
St Marks Square;
Malamocco, one
of the three
narrow channels
in the barrier
island chain
that separates
the Lagoon from
the sea
FOURTH ITINERARY
THE LIDO: AN UNDERAPPRECIATED GEM
This is famous mainly for the Movie
Festival held every year from the
end of August to the first week
of September when it is besieged
by Hollywood. Otherwise this
island is an under-appreciated
treasure. The 11km-long sandbar
that shelters the Lagoon from the
Adriatic Sea was developed as a
seaside resort at the beginning of
the 20th century and became so
popular with its aristocratic visitors
that was commonly known as the
golden island. Only 15 minutes
away from St Marks Square, the
Lido is definitely worth spending
at least a day at if you are coming
during spring or summer. I highly
recommend you hire a bike and
cycle all along the island. This
narrow strip is packed with history,
from the starting point of the
fourth crusade to Lord Byrons daily
horse-riding expeditions. If you start
from Santa Maria Elisabetta (this is
where the vaporetto stops) you can
12 CITY
ITALIA!
BREAKS
September 2014
INFORMATION
Find out more about whats on in
Venice, plus where to stay and eat at
www.venice-tourism.com/en
14 CITY BREAKS
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
Clockwise from
top left: La Via
Croce di Citt
in Aosta; Aosta
Cattedrale; Chris
above the former
mining town
of La Thuile;
Sarriod de la Tour,
in the comune
of St Pierre;
Aosta offers
great shopping
opportunities;
Roman ruins
and soaring
mountains; Monte
Bianco from the
Val Ferret; grassy
and mellow local
cheese for sale.
Valle dAosta
48 HOURS IN
CITY BREAKS 15
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
HELI-SKIING 4
Heliski Cervinia
+39 0166 949267
www.heliskicervinia.com
For the expert skier, the Valle DAosta is one
of the few places in Europe where you can
try heli-skiing (as well as being one of the
cheaper options). Excursions set out from
La Thuile, Courmayeur, and Gressoney, and
offer access to otherwise impossible to
reach off-piste terrain.
16 CITY BREAKS
DONT MISS
CRYPTOPORTICUS
Perhaps the
best preserved
and following
extensive
renovation
best presented
example of this
rare subterranean
relic from Roman
times, the
Cryptoporticus
forms part of the
foundations to
the 15th century
Cathedral of
St Mary of the
Assumption. The
atmosphericallylit line of
archways helps
you appreciate
the precision of
its architects.
The structure is
occasionally used
for theatrical
performances, so
time your visit
well if you wish
to attend (see the
events listings on
www.aostalife.it).
WHERE TO STAY
The Cryptoporticus
DONT MISS
CHOCOLAT
La Thuile was
awarded the
title City of
Chocolate in
2009 by a club of
serious chocolate
appreciators,
and central to
this success
was Chocolat,
a family-run
chocolate house
and pasticceria
with a master
chocolatier,
Stefano Collomb,
at work behind the
scenes. See the
giant chocolate
sculpture of Pope
John Paul IIs head
in the window.
Inside, immerse
yourself (literally
if needs be) in
the chocolate
fondue, with
unmixed halves
of fluid milk and
dark chocolate
available. www.
chocolat-collomb.it
HOTEL MILLELUCI 8
Localit Porossan Roppoz, 15 Aosta
+39 0165 235278
www.hotelmilleluci.com
Located 1km from the city centre, the Hotel
Milleluci is a converted farmhouse set into
the hillsides above Aosta. As a member of
the Saveurs du Val DAoste, this four-star
is Valdostan through and through with
ornamental antique skis and a selection of
Alpine cheeses a feature in the buffetstyle breakfasts. Other trappings to expect
include claw-foot baths, a Jacuzzi, and a
Turkish bath.
MAISON BONDAZ 9
Via Saint-Anselme, 36 Aosta
+39 345 63 73 351
www.maisonbondaz.it
Conveniently located in the citys historical
pedestrian zone, this family-run boutique
hotel has the warmth and charm of a B&B.
The hotels dcor makes features of its
medieval architecture, while Jeanettes
breakfasts, served by the replace, are
legendary. The homemade apple juice is
fresh from the proprietors nearby farm.
HOTEL CECCHIN 10
Via Ponte Romano, 27 Aosta
+39 0165 45262
www.hotelcecchin.com
Five minutes from the centre is the
three-star Hotel Cecchin. Located next
to the Ponte Romano, the hotel offers
good value for money and clean, spacious
accommodation. Fresh baked pastries are
available for breakfast, and theres an
optional underground garage available for
a small fee.
CITY BREAKS 17
NIRA MONTANA 6
Localita Arly, 87 La Thuile
+39 0165 883125
www.niramontana.com/en
Opened in December of last year, the Nira
Montana is La Thuiles rst ve-star hotel.
The exterior is broad-eaved and traditional,
but inside its all modern art on the walls
and Baxter steel and leather loungers
lolling before an open re. Theres also a
spa (see image immediately right), and,
best of all, its really four-star prices.
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
4 7
Courmayeur
La Thuile
4 5 6
11 12
WHERE TO EAT
1
14
STARS 11
Localit Arly, 87 La Thuile
+39 0165 883125
www.niramontana.com/en
With the opening of Nira Montanas
in-house restaurant, Stars, the resort of
La Thuile nally has a quality alternative
to the hearty traditional restaurants that
dominate the villages dining options.
Not that its untethered to its locale: the
ingredients are local sourced, the dishes
seasonal, and the menu offers interesting
twists on regional specialities.
O
O
LO RIONDET 12
S.S. Piccolo San Bernardo, 4 La Thuile
+39 0165 884006
www.loriondet.it
Lo Riondet offers an authentic chalet
dining experience without having to travel
too far from La Thuile. Accessible only by
snow cat (the restaurant runs a regular
service) during the ski season, expect jugs
of wine, pale orange half-moons of fontina
served raclette-style on every table, and a
generally boisterous, all-round good time.
O
GIULIANI RISTORANTE 13
Via St Anselmo, 49 Aosta
+39 0165 10637
www.giulianiristorante.com
Theres a winning formula for this
family-run restaurant housed in an
old underground stable. It serves a
contemporary take on traditional Aosta
cuisine with a air youd expect at
much higher prices.
O
TRATTORIA ALDENTE 14
Via Croce de Ville, 34 Aosta
+39 0165 194596
www.aldentetrattoria.eu
This is the traditional red-check tablecloth
trattoria experience done extremely well.
Cosy and unassuming, Trattoria Aldente
offers simple, regional cuisine cooked to
perfection, with friendly waiting staff ready
to advise on wines and dish choices.
O
AGRITURISMO LA REINA 15
Localit Saint-Benin, 17/A Aosta
+39 0165 253775
www.lareina.it
A farmhouse stay, the La Reinas dining
room is also open to non-residents. The
set menu offers better value than the la
carte with either the 20 or 30 options.
Expect vast bowls of polenta, regional
cheeses, and Valdostan dishes such as
crespelle alla valdostana.
O
18 CITY BREAKS
10
1 13
1 9
3
Map data 2015 Google
DONT MISS
HIKING
As the warmer
weather prevails,
wild flowers
bloom over the
lush green Alpine
valleys and hiking
without snow
shoes becomes
delightfully
possible once
again. Valle
dAostas Parco
Nazionale del
Gran Paradiso,
named after
Italys highest
mountain, offers
a plethora of trails
to help you lose
yourself (although
not actually get
lost) in pristine
wilderness. Go
high altitude
with the Alte
Vie 1 and 2
blue-riband trails
while staying
at traditional
mountain rifugios
along the way,
devouring braised
meat and potato
dumplings before
falling into a
well-earned
slumber. And keep
an eye out for the
majestic Alpine
ibex in the early
19th century
its numbers
had dropped
dangerously
low due to overhunting, but its
population has
happily since
bounced back.
15
GETTING THERE
BY PLANE
BY CAR
The journey time from Calais to Valle
DAosta is around ten hours. Access the
Mont Blanc Tunnel from Geneva, and
dont forget your snow chains!
BY TRAIN
Eurostar operates an overnight service
from London St Pancras to the French
Alps. Connections can then be made to
Aosta town, where buses are available to
the resorts. Taking local trains through
the mountains is, at best, complicated.
CITY BREAKS 19
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
Clockwise
from top left:
The ceiling of
SantAnastasia;
the Giardino
Giusti; view
across the
Adige; time
for wine; the
Ponte Vecchio;
ower market
at the Arena;
lemon trees in
the Piazza Bra;
rooftop view of
the city
20 CITY BREAKS
Verona
With preserved architecture spanning all the ages from ancient
times through the medieval and Renaissance periods, Verona is
the perfect city for sightseeing. Lorenza Bacino reports
48 HOURS IN
proximity to the balcony and the tacky tourist stalls, so I head for the
CITY BREAKS 21
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
ARENA 1
+39 045 800 5151
Built in the 1st century AD, a 12th century
earthquake destroyed most of the outside
walls only a small section remains.
Seating 25,000, it is the most famous
landmark in Verona. The 2017 season runs
from 23 June-27 August.
JULIETS BALCONY 2
+39 045 803 4303
Set in the courtyard of Juliets House
(entrance to the courtyard is free) the 13th
century house belonged to the Dal Cappello
family, whose coat of arms is visible above
the inner-archway of the courtyard. Free
entrance with the Verona Card.
ROMAN THEATRE 3
+39 045 800 0360
Across the Ponte Pietra is one of Italys best
preserved Roman theatres, which is now
used for performances in the summer. Free
entrance with the Verona Card.
CASTELVECCHIO 4
+39 045 806 2611
The Castle is the largest and most
impressive of the Scaligeri buildings,
constructed towards the end of their rule.
The castles inner courtyard is the entrance
to the Museum of Veronese Art. Free
entrance with the Verona Card.
JULIETS TOMB 6
+39 045 800 0361
The convent San Francesco al Corso has
been used as an orphanage and a military
store-room, and houses the sarcophagus of
Juliet. Today it is a museum of frescoes and
also hosts civil wedding ceremonies. Free
entrance with the Verona Card.
DUOMO DI VERONA 7
+39 045 592813
The Cathedral was built in the 7th century
on top of a pre-existing medieval church
and has been altered and enlarged in the
subsequent centuries. The faade includes
both Roman and Gothic elements. There
is a Romanesque portal, with its Roman
porch. Inside, Titians Assunta is in the rst
chapel to the left. Free for Verona citizens,
children, religious people, journalists and
members of the military, group leaders
(minimum 20 paying), teachers with
groups, and those with a Verona Card.
22 CITY BREAKS
DONT MISS
VERONA OPERA
SEASON
www.arena.it
is the ofcial
website. The
season runs
between June
and September
and you can
check out the
programme and
book your tickets
online. Some
highlights this
year include
Gala wih Placido
Domingo, Tosca,
Nabucco, Aida
and Madame
Buttery.
WHERE TO STAY
Lunchtime!
SantAnastasia
SOGNO DI GIULIETTA 9
Via Capello 2
+39 045 800 9932
www.sognodigiulietta.it
High standard, romantic Dimora storica
located in the Casa di Giulietta courtyard
and overlooking Juliets balcony. Just
as the balcony itself is fake, the exact
whereabouts of the Capulet family home is
unknown, but that of the Montague family
does still stand and is within easy walking
distance. Truly a great central location in
Verona, especially if you are there for the
Shakespeare connection. All 16 spacious
and stylishly decorated rooms have full
ensuite facilities.
DONT MISS
A TRIP TO
NEARBY LAKE
GARDA
If you have time,
the Lake is an
easy half hour
drive away, and
there are regular
trains. Its on
the Milan-Venice
train line. Train
rides take
between 20-40
minutes to
Desenzano.
This is the
biggest town
and the most
expensive, but
the nicest views
of the Lake can
be had from
Malcesine and
Riva.
GRAND HOTEL 10
Corso Porta Nuova 105
+39 045 595600
www.grandhotel.vr.it
Four-star hotel offering breakfast and hot
buffet. Set in an historic building in a very
good central location, with comfortable
and stylish ensuite rooms. Has an internal
garden/courtyard with bar service, sitting
area and loungers. A great base for
exploring Verona and the area as it is easy
to reach all the sights and/or the train
station or airport.
GIULIETTA E ROMEO 11
Vicolo Tre Marchetti 3
+39 045 800 3554
www.giuliettaeromeo.it
Three stars. Superb location near to the
Roman Ampitheatre/Arena in a quiet side
street in the heart of Verona. Close to all
sights and shopping, friendly and helpful
staff. Comfortable and elegant rooms have
ensuite facilities. The hotel has a small
outdoor courtyard with bar service where
breakfast can also be taken.
DE CAPULETI 12
Via del Pontiere 26
+39 045 800 0154
www.decapuleti.it
Bright and modern 35-room hotel (all
rooms ensuite), only a few minutes walk
from all the main sights. Good value, and it
has a small wellness area. Three stars.
CITY BREAKS 23
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
3
7
WHERE TO EAT
RISTORANTE MAFFEI 13
Piazza Erbe 38
info@ristorantemaffei.it
+39 045 8010015
www.ristorantemaffei.it
A fantastic place to book for special
occasions, this restaurant is in a 17th
century palazzo that belonged to the
notable Maffei family from San Benedetto.
The dcor is distinctly Baroque and the
plates and settings are sumptuous. For
romantic dinners theres a Romeo and
Juliet table situated two oors down
among the ancient ruins.
8
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17
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13
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9
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O
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11
4
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O
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PIZZERIA IMPERO 17
Piazza dei Signori 8
+39 045 803 0160
www.pizzieriaimpero.it
Nicolas in charge of this pizzeria in
a secluded corner of the piazza. Its a
trattoria, and a restaurant, with a friendly
atmosphere and views over the square.
24 CITY BREAKS
DONT MISS
VERONA CARD
The Verona
Card is an
all-inclusive citypass. 15 for 24
hours or 20 for
72 hours (valid
from rst entry).
Includes free
entry to Arena,
SantAnastasia
Church, San
Zeno Church,
Juliets House,
San Fermo
Church, Duomo,
Castelvecchio
Museum, Natural
History Museum,
Radio Museum,
Maffeiano
Museum, Modern
Art Gallery,
Roman Theatre,
Lamberti Tower,
and Juliets
Tomb. www.
turismoverona.eu
Salad bar
GETTING THERE
DONT MISS
BY PLANE
SPRITZ APEROL
Youll pick up
the recipe here.
Add lots of ice
to a large white
wine glass. Pour
over the Aperol,
followed by the
Prosecco and gin
(if using). Stir
once and nish
with a splash of
soda water and a
slice of orange.
At the Sogno di
Giulietta
Wine cellar
CITY BREAKS 25
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
Clockwise from
top left: A quiet
corner in the old
town; a detail of
a galleon used in
a Roman Polanski
movie in the old
port; the coloured
houses along
the sea front
at Nervi; Signor
Matteo poses for
a picture in the
poultry shop, one
of the historic
stores of Genoa;
a traditional
shmonger near
the port area; a
view of the port
from the cabin
of Bigo; a shrine
also known as
a Madonnetta
in the Genoese
dialect on a
wall in the centre
of Genoa; Signor
Francesco, owner
of the Tripperia
La Casana,
stirs the tripe;
the view from
the panoramic
viewpoint of
Spianata di
Castelletto, which
is accessible on
foot or by lift.
26 CITY BREAKS
48 HOURS IN
Genoa
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
THE AQUARIUM 1
Ponte Spinola
+39 010 23451
www.acquariodigenova.it
The Genoa Aquarium is a must-see. One
of Europes largest, it reproduces several
marine environments, from Mediterranean
tidal zones to Arctic waters and coral reefs.
The new addition is Renzo Pianos recentlyopened Cetacean Pavilion. Afterwards, you
can take a boat tour of the port (every 30
minutes from outside the Aquarium) and
contemplate the city from the sea for a
very different perspective.
PALAZZO ROSSO 2
Via Garibaldi 18
+39 010 557 219
www.museidigenova.it
No fewer than 14 stunning palaces line the
pedestrianised via Garibaldi. One of the
most beautiful is the Palazzo Rosso with its
frescoed ceilings and stunning panoramic
rooftops views that can be reached via a
glass lift. Open Tues-Fri 09.00-19.00, SatSun 10.00-19.00, Mon closed).
PALAZZO REALE 3
Via Balbi 10
+39 010 271 0236
www.palazzorealegenova.it
Palazzo Reale on via Balbi has a gleaming
gold hall of mirrors and portraits by Van
Dyck. Open Tues-Wed 09.00-13.00, Thu-Sun
09.00-19.00, Mon closed, 6.50. Consider
buying a 24-hour Museum Card from the
Visitor Centre for free entry to 22 museums
(prices start at 12 for the one-day pass).
SONGWRITERS MUSEUM 4
Via del Campo 29
+39 010 247 4064
www.viadelcampo29rosso.com
The best way to understand Genoa is
through the singer-songwriters who
sang about it over the years. The most
famous of them all is Fabrizio de Andr
(nicknamed Faber). His songs echo the
ups and downs of Genoas fascinating
contrasts. Via del Campo 29 is now a
museum dedicated to Genoas songwriters,
a crossroads of memorabilia. It is also
the best place to buy some excellent
Italian music.
28 CITY BREAKS
DONT MISS
SAN GIOVANNI
BATTISTA
St John the
Baptist is the
patron saint of
Genoa and June
24 is his day.
The celebrations
begin on the
evening of the
23rd, when there
are reworks
and activities
in piazzas all
across the city.
On the day of
St John itself,
a procession
makes its
way from the
Cathedral to the
Porto Antico,
where the
Cardinal blesses
the sea with
relics of the
saint.
WHERE TO STAY
PALAZZO CICALA 7
Piazza San Lorenzo 16
+39 010 251 8824
www.palazzocicala.it
Right in front of the San Lorenzo cathedral
is Genoas rst urban hotel, providing
contemporary dcor in a 16th-century
palazzo built by the Cicala family when
they were at the height of their once
considerable political power. In the 20th
century the house served as ofces; its
current incarnation as the Locanda di
Palazzo Cicala dates from 2001.
DONT MISS
LA
PAGANINIANA
A series of
concerts and
events held in
September and
October every
other year to
celebrate the
life and work of
Niccol Paganini,
the supremely
inuential
violinist who
was born in the
city in 1782. The
events, held in
the teatro Carlo
Felice, attract
many of the
worlds greatest
violin players
of today, who
compete for
prizes that bring
international
acclaim.
BRISTOL PALACE 8
Via XX Settembre 35
+39 010 592941
www.hotelbristolpalace.com
An excellent choice near the teatro Carlo
Felice and Brignole train station; also
convenient for the Old Port. Grand antique
furnishing, sumptuous rooms and very
attentive staff. A noticeable feature of this
133-room, four-star hotel its spectacular
elliptical staircase.
MELIA GENOVA 10
Via Corsica 4
+39 010 5315 111
www.melia.com
Located in the district of Carignano within
striking distance of all the sights. The
rooms feature contemporary photographic
art and the hotel has a wellness centre
with indoor pool, gym, Turkish bath and
hydromassage tub.
CITY BREAKS 29
THE BRITANNIA 6
Via Balbi 38
+39 010 2470 800
www.cithotelsbritanniagenoa-hrez.com
Conveniently located near the Piazza
Principe train station, it is probably the
best upper-range hotel in the area. This
is via Balbi, which has been awarded
World Heritage status by UNESCO. Friendly
staff and good breakfast buffet are the
icing on the cake.
WHERE TO EAT
ANTICA SCIAMADDA 11
Via San Giorgio 14r
+39 010 246 8516
For a lunch on the go, you will nd food
stands friggitorie all over the centre of
Genoa. These sell delicious yet inexpensive
takeaway snacks such as focaccia and
farinata, a traditional chickpea-based
pancake. The avours of this peculiarly
Genoese tradition can be sampled at their
best at Antica Sciamadda.
Price range O
TRIPPERIA LA CASANA 12
Vico Casana 3r
+39 010 247 4357
If you are after an alternative experience
and you like tripe and broth do it like the
sailors used to and head to the charming
Tripperia. One of the few surviving tripe
shops in town, where sailors traditionally
warmed themselves up with a bowl of
broth. The soup is now given away free of
charge, providing that you arrive with a
receptacle to take it away in.
Price range O
AL VELIERO 14
Via Ponte Calvi 10r
+39 010 246 5773
www.alvelierogenova.com
Conveniently close to the Aquarium in
the sense that you can get to the Aquarium
easily from here, and not in the sense that
their kitchen staff can, or do! this much
praised restaurant is an excellent choice
for sh-based courses. Do not miss the sh
ravioli, one of the specialities of the place.
O
Price range O
EATALY GENOVA 15
Calata Catteneo 15
+39 010 869 8721
www.eataly.net
Located in the Porto Antico, this is
an address that is great for just about
anything from breakfast to a full meal.
Foodies will also love the supermarket
specialising in quality food from several
Italian regions.
O
Price range O
30 CITY BREAKS
DONT MISS
PAROLE
SPALANCANTE
The Genoa
International
Poetry Festival,
which takes
place in June
every year, is
one of the most
important events
of its kind in
the world. Dont
worry if your
Italian is not up
to scratch, Parole
Spalancante
which loosely
translates as
wide open
words attracts
performers from
far and wide, and
the emphasis is
very much on
experimentalism
rather than
traditional
recital.
GETTING THERE
BY PLANE
British Airways ies direct to Genoa from
London Gatwick; Ryanair ies there from
Stansted. Genoas Cristoforo Colombo
airport (www.airport.genova.it) is only
6km from the city centre and there is a
shuttle bus into town called the Volabus.
Tickets for the journey are 6.
TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICE
There are two ofces: one at via Garibaldi
12r, +39 010 5572903 and another at
Piazza Caricamento. Both are open seven
days a week from 09.00-18.30.
www.visitgenoa.it
DONT MISS
GOA BOAT SHOW
Fittingly for
the city that
spawned
Christopher
Columbus
(probably) the
Genoa Boat
Festival is the
citys premier
event and one
of the greatest
boat shows in
the world. It is
a trade show,
and most of the
people there are
actively involved
in the buying
and selling of
boats, so the
atmosphere is
rather businesslike, but if you
do like to look
at boats (or
you want to buy
one!) October is
the time to visit
Genoa.
CITY BREAKS 31
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D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
Clockwise from
top left: Arriving
at Isola San
Giulio; view from
Piazza Motta;
more of Isola San
Giulio; terracotta
gures in the
chapel on Sacro
Monte; the view
from Madonna
del Sasso; Piazza
Motta; view of
the island from
Piazza Motta;
Orta San Giulio;
chapel on the
Sacro Monte
34 CITY BREAKS
48 HOURS IN
Lake Orta
Peaceful, quiet and smaller than some of the countrys more
famous lakes, Orta gave Jane Keightley the chance to consider
the understated beauty of this sub-Alpine secret
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
36 CITY BREAKS
DONT MISS
THE PINOCCHIO
INDUSTRY
Woodworking
was a popular
occupation in
the Valstrona
area at the north
of the lake.
Production once
concentrated on
kitchen articles,
but now focuses
on Pinocchio, the
famous wooden
puppet. One of
the best-known
workshops to see
this is Mastro
Geppetto.
WHERE TO STAY
HOTEL GIARDINETTO 7
Via Provinciale 1, Pettenasco, Lago dOrta
+39 0323 89118
www.giardinettohotel.com
Hotel Giardinetto enjoys a marvellous
position on the side of the lake in
Pettenasco. Most of the bedrooms have
their own balconies overlooking the lake
and these have absolutely stunning views.
The staff are very friendly and helpful and it
has its own small beach and pool for guests
to use. There is also free parking. Breakfast
included in the price.
DONT MISS
IL TRENINO
DI ORTA
Between March
and October,
a little tourist
train il Trenino
di Orta shuttles
between the
town centre, the
Sacro Monte, and
the train station,
approximately
every half hour.
It is invaluable
for conquering
Ortas steep
slopes and
navigating its
narrow streets.
LOCANDA DI ORTA 10
Via Olina 18, Orta San Giulio
+39 0322 905188
www.locandaorta.com
Locanda di Orta is a very good value
hotel right in the centre of Orta. The
rooms combine medieval touches with
contemporary design. The restaurant is on
a rooftop terrace, and dining there means
you can enjoy some amazing views. Rooms
include breakfast.
CITY BREAKS 37
Villa Crespi
VILLA CRESPI 6
Via G. Fava 18, Orta San Giulio
+39 0322 911902
www.villacrespi.it
Staying at Villa Crespi is a wonderfully
unique experience. A Moorish style villa,
complete with its own minaret, it offers 14
ornate rooms with sumptuous four poster
beds, antique furniture and decadently
luxurious bathrooms. Staff are helpful,
polite and courteous and there is ample car
parking in the grounds around the hotel.
Includes breakfast
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
7 12
WHERE TO EAT
HOTEL CRESPI 11
Via G. Fava 18, Orta San Giulio
+39 0322 911902
www.villacrespi.it
Ortas nest hotel is also home to a
quite superb restaurant. Antonino
Cannavacciuolos gourmet dishes have
earned him two Michelin stars over
the years. Set in extravagant, exotic
surroundings, dining here is an experience
not to be missed. A meal for two with wine
will cost from 200.
O
O
Price range O
15 9
10
14 8
2
1
13
6 11
HOTEL GIARDINETTO 12
Via Provinciale 1, Pettenasco
+39 0323 89118
www.giardinettohotel.com
The Giardinettos light and airy restaurant
looks directly out over the lake and, while
you are enjoying the wonderful views, you
can have a truly great meal too. The staff
are very friendly and helpful, and there is a
very good selection of wine to choose from
to accompany your dishes. A meal for two
with wine will cost from 90.
O
Price range O
Price range O
Price range O
ENOTECA AL BOUEC 15
Via Bersani 28, Orta San Giulio
+39 339 584 0039
www.alboeuc.beepworld.it
Dont miss this cosy little wine bar
situated in a very old building, and
the perfect place to linger for an
atmospheric glass or two They serve light
meals to accompany their wonderful wines.
O
Price range O
38 CITY BREAKS
DONT MISS
ORTAS OWN
MIAMI BEACH
On the southeastern shore
of the lake lies
Spiaggia Miami,
Ortas own Miami
Beach. Not far
from Orta San
Giulio, it offers
all the usual
beach facilities
and has a bar
and a restaurant.
Enjoy a taste
of the seaside
surrounded by
the beautiful
scenery of
the hills and
mountains.
GETTING THERE
BY PLANE
Fly to Bergamo (Orio al Serio) airport
with Ryanair from nine UK & Ireland
airports. Get a bus to Milan Centrale
Station and travel the rest of the way
by train.
Terracotta gures
TRAIN
Travel from Milan Centrale to OrtaMiasino station, changing at Novara. The
station is about a 20-minute walk down
to Orta San Giulio, or take a taxi, or use
the Trenino (the little tourist train).
BY CAR
The most direct way to reach Orta from
Milan is to follow the A26 tollway and
exit at Meina, for the south end of the
lake, or Gravellona Toca for the north end
of the lake.
KEY TO RESTAURANT PRICES
(full meal per person, not including wine)
Up to 25
O
O
26-50
O
O
O
More than 50
O
CITY BREAKS 39
Casa Travella
-
SINCE 1987 -
www.casatravella.com
enquiries@leplaw.co.uk
www.leplaw.co.uk
Victory House, 99-101 Regent Street, London W1B 4EZ
www.propertyforsalemarche.com
+ 39.347.5386668
Secret Milan
The top oor of the Museo del Novecento, from where you
have a wonderful view over the Cathedral Square
CITY BREAKS 41
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
raditionally associated
with fashion and design,
Milan is relatively poor
of sights when compared
to other Italian cites such
as Rome, Venice or Florence. Which
is why most people see it in a hurry,
take a few pictures of the Duomo,
head to Santa Maria delle Grazie to
see Leonardos Last Supper and then
move on to the next destination, after a
customary shopping spree.
Big mistake. As any Milanese
will tell you, Milan is one of the most
enjoyable cities in Italy in terms of
quality of life and things to do. Still, it
is a rather bashful city, designed for
locals rather than tourists, and it needs
more time to be fully appreciated.
42 CITY BREAKS
The vintage
atmosphere of
the Sacrestia
Farmacia Alcolica
CITY BREAKS 43
Tudor-style architecture in
the heart of Milan
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
you will suddenly feel like you are somewhere in rural England
if you happen to be in Corso Buenos
Aires, peek through the entrance of
Palazzo Luraschi, at no. 1, to see one
of the most spectacular ones. The
marble columns come straight from
the old lazaret, while the 12 busts on
top represent the characters of The
Betrothed, the masterpiece of the most
Milanese of all writers, Alessandro
Manzoni. At no. 2 of via Soncino is
another emblematic building, the
16th-century Palazzo Stampa, with
its characteristic tower. Inside, an
impressive porticoed courtyard with
18th-century stables and an even
older well with the coat of arms of the
Stampa family.
Sometimes even churches can hide
their secrets. The medieval church of
46 CITY BREAKS
&
FOOD
NORTHERN ITALY Gavi
WINE
IN THE
Gavi
Region
Di Gavi in Gavi
CITY BREAKS 47
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
Harpist in Gavi
Tasting at Broglia
48 CITY BREAKS
Vines
Mosaic at Libarna
Villa Pomela
Fontanassa
Broglia
Gavi fort
CITY BREAKS 49
Many varieties of Gavi store beautifully, becoming richer and more complex
restaurants. Try Villa Pomela
with time, all the while maintaining the smooth, pleasing balance
(attached to Cascina Perpetua)
with its restaurant Al Cortese,
or Villa Pallavicini, which also boasts
a swimming pool.
In the State Archives of Genoa
they keep a document referring to
wine production in this region which
is dated 3 June 972 AD. It can be no
surprise that vine cultivation was an
early industry in the Gavi area; the
Fruit shop
River Lemme
50 CITY BREAKS
Fontanassa
Di Gavi in Gavi
Fontanassa
Gavi fort
CITY BREAKS 51
GETTING THERE
WHERE TO STAY
BY CAR
Gavi is about an hours drive from Genoa airport up the autostrada
to Milan. A car is a good idea if you are visiting vineyards, though
there are guides who will offer transport and tours. Take a look at
the tour offered here: www.ofcineturistiche.it/en/wine-tastingin-gavi-walking-tour/
VILLA SPARINA
Franzione Monterotondo 56, Gavi
+39 0143 607801
www.villasparinaresort.it
BY TRAIN
There is a reliable rail network servicing the area indeed it was
the construction of the railway that led to the discovery of the
Roman site at Libarna. Arquata Scrivia train station has regular
services to Milan, Pavia, Brescia and Turin, making Gavi a great
base from which to explore the surrounding cities by rail.
BY PLANE
Genoa Cristoforo Colombo Airport is rather impressive to y into
as it is built on an articial peninsula between the sea and the
mountains. There are regular ights from a variety of UK airports.
Alternatively, Milan Linate is about 90 minutes by car.
BY BIKE
The area around Gavi is heaven for cyclists. Maps are freely
available online and from tourist information centres, and
you can also visit Europes largest cycling museum, Museo dei
Campionissimi, in Novi Ligure.
VILLA PALLAVICINI
Via Monterotondo 99/101, Serravalle Scrivia
+39 143 633332
www.villapallavicini.com
CANTINA FONTANASSA
Fraz. Rovereto 172, Gavi
+39 143 645455
www.fontanassa.com
BROGLIA LA MEIRANA
Localit Lomellina 22, Gavi
+39 143 642998
www.broglia.it
LA GIUSTINIANA ANTICA TENUTA
Fraz. Rovereto 5, Gavi
+39 143 682132
www.lagiustiniana.it
info@lagiustiniana.it
LA CHIARA
Localit Vallegge 24/2, Gavi
+39 143 642293
www.lachiara.it
IL POGGIO
Fraz. Rovereto 171, Gavi
+39 143 682081
www.ilpoggiodigavi.com
CASTELLARI BERGAGLIO
Fraz. Rovereto 136, Gavi
+39 143 644000
www.castellaribergaglio.it
LE CANTINE DEL GAVI
Via Goffredo Mameli 69, Gavi
+39 143 642458
www.ristorantecantinedelgavi.it
PICCOLO HOTEL
Piazza M. della Benedicta 15R, Gavi
+39 143 643485
www.ilgirasolegavi.com
As you might imagine from the name,
this is a tiny hotel with only four rooms.
Though small, it is perfectly formed, and
couldnt be more central for exploring the
town of Gavi.
LOSTELLIERE AT VILLA SPARINA
Franzione Monterotondo 56, Gavi
+39 143 607801
www.villasparinaresort.it
Splendid views of the Villa Sparina
vineyards. Each of the 32 rooms has
been individually decorated and the villa
has won awards for innovation and design.
There is also a wellness centre on site.
CASA MELI
Via XX Settembre 25,
Parodi Ligure, fraz. Cadepiaggio
+39 347 311 7693
www.casameli.com
A comfortable B&B set in the grounds of
a country estate, surrounded by vineyards.
Enjoy the relaxing atmosphere where
guests can unwind and enjoy the scenery.
VILLA LA BOLLINA
Via Monterotondo 58
Serravalle Scrivia
+39 143 65334
www.hotelvillalabollina.com
info@labollina.com
This is a refurbished four-star villa
in Serravalle Scrivia, just a couple of
kilometres fromthe Serravalle designer
shopping outlet. It has its own golf course
and beautiful views.
HOTEL CASTELLO
Piazza Dante 11r, Gavi
+39 143 642794
www.hotelalcastello.net
A basic but comfortable family-run hotel
in the heart of Gavi. Handy for shopping
at the Serravalle shopping outlet. It is
worth investing the extra 5 for breakfast,
which is home-made and served on the
charming terrace.
52 CITY BREAKS
Evergreen berries
ON SALE NOW!
AVAILABLE FROM
&
OR BUY ONLINE AT
ANTHEM.SUBSCRIBEONLINE.CO.UK/SPECIALS
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
54 CITY BREAKS
Clockwise
from top left:
A prosciutto
bar; the Teatro
Grande; enjoying
life al fresco;
youll nd
some great
local markets;
the region also
produces some
excellent wine;
and, of course,
Brescia is famous
for the Mille
Miglia; the Santa
Giulia museum;
a view across the
city at sunset
48 HOURS IN
Brescia
Amanda Robinson takes a pitstop in a city with an
outstanding heritage, great shopping and a relaxed ambience
a rich mix of old and new, just an hour from Milan
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
BRESCIATOURISM 1
+39 030 372 5403
Fax: +39 030 372 5411
info@bresciatourism.it
www.bresciatourism.it
Youll get all the help you need from
the charming representatives of
Bresciatourism. As well as being very
personable, their website is comprehensive
and packed with itineraries, event details,
accommodation listings and helpful advice
to help you plan your visit to Brescia, its
environs and the lakes.
SANTA GIULIA MUSEO DELLA CITT,
AND THE CAPITOLIUM 2
Via Musei 81/bis
+39 030 240 0640
www.bresciamusei.com
The comprehensive umbrella site for all
the historic museums and UNESCO world
Heritage monuments in the Brescia area.
MUSEI MAZZUCCHELLI 3
Via G. Mazzucchelli, 2
25080 Ciliverghe di Mazzano
+39 030 212421
www.villamazzucchelli.it
Just 20 minutes drive from Brescia, this
elegant neo-Palladian villa houses not one
but three permanent antique collections
costume and fashion, household
memorabilia, and last but not least, a
museum dedicated to wine and the largest
collection of corkscrews youll ever see.
There is also a spectacular annual vintage
costume exhibition and sale (see website
for 2017 details). Open six days a week.
Tours available.
GOING UNDERGROUND 4
+39 349 099 8697
info@bresciaunderground.com
www.bresciaunderground.com
See Brescia from an entirely different
perspective the Brescia Underground
Association offers a range of fascinating
guided tours to discover what goes
on down underneath your feet. Follow
the ancient rivers and see other
subterranean evidence of the citys
heritage now hidden beneath the streets.
TEATRO GRANDE 5
C.so Zanardelli, 9
+39 030 297 9333
www.teatrogrande.it
Brescias opulent 17th-century Teatro
Grande is the sumptuous setting for an
opera season which runs throughout the
autumn and winter with a programme of
performances of classic operatic works
from Italy and beyond.
56 CITY BREAKS
DONT MISS
MILLE MIGLIA
With much
flourish and
fanfare, this
classic car rally
begins and ends in
Brescia. Its open
to vehicles built
between 1927 and
1957 and takes
place over three
days in May every
year, driving on
open roads to
Rome and back.
If you cant be
there in May, the
museum dedicated
to the race is
open all year
round. Discover
the history and
legends of the
rally and marvel
at the classic
cars and other
automotive
exhibits.
www.mille
miglia.it
www.museo
millemiglia.it
WHERE TO STAY
Well-preserved
mosaic oors
DONT MISS
CAMONICA
VALLEY
The Camonica
Valley has
one of the
worlds greatest
collections of
prehistoric
rock carvings.
The extent of
the carvings is
breathtaking
and certainly
worthy of
its UNESCO
World Heritage
status. Its also
a region of
natural beauty
with hiking and
biking trails,
national parks
and excellent
skiing in the
PontedilegnoTonale area to
the north.
www.valle
camonica
unesco.it
HOTEL AMBASCIATORI 8
Santa Maria Crocissa Di Rosa, 92
+39 030 399114
www.ambasciatori.net
The modern 4-star Hotel Ambasciatori
is located just off one of the main routes
into the city, with a great view over
the castle and close to the metro for
quick access to the centro storico, piazzas,
the castle and museum. 66 rooms available.
Free wi- and a tness room on the
seventh oor of the hotel.
ALBERGO OROLOGIO 9
Via C. Beccaria, 17
+39 030 375 5411
www.albergoorologio.it
Just an easy 15-minute walk from the
train station, the 3-star Albergo Orologio
is in the perfect spot for walking to all
the sights and museums in Brescias
historic centre. It offers a warm welcome
with a great breakfast and the cosy rooms
are comfortably furnished and clean.
IL SANTELLONE 10
Via del Santellone, 116/120
+39 030 373 2998
www.ilsantellone.it
If you want to stay somewhere
you can really get away and relax in,
check out the comfortable resort hotel
of Il Santellone, which is just a few miles
from the city centre. A sauna, spa as well
as an indoor and outdoor pool will ease
away the stresses and strains of a heavy
days sightseeing in the city.
CITY BREAKS 57
HOTEL VITTORIA 6
Via X Giornate, 20
+39 030 768 7200
www.hotelvittoria.com
The elegant art nouveau-style Hotel
Vittoria is next to the Duomo Nuovo
Cathedral in the pedestrian centre of
Brescia and just 200 metres from the
Vittoria Metro Station. Free internet
connection. Enjoy drinks at the Piano
Bar, Italian and international menu is
available in the restaurant.
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
WHERE TO EAT
TRATTORIA AL FONTANONE 11
Via Musei 47/a
+39 030 40554
Youll nd this rustic trattoria in a quiet
little corner on via Musei, just down from
the Capitolium Roman Temple. Fairly small
with a limited number of tables, it has a
cosy, homely ambience. Homemade pasta
and gnocchi.
10
RESTAURANT LA SOSTA 15
Via S. Martino della Battaglia, 20
+39 030 295603
www.lasosta.it
Gracious and particular surroundings of the
old stables (check out the ceilings), the
food is elegant and tasty, with emphasis
on seasonality and local provenance.
Delicious ne dining menu with dishes
including lake sh from the nearby waters.
13
9
1
5
SOLIVE 14
Via Calvarole, 15
25030 Nigoline di Corte Franca
+39 030 988 4201
www.solive.it
Nestling among vineyards and rose gardens,
Solive agriturismo has a busy restaurant
and six rooms, Many of the ingredients and
products come from Solive like the cured
pork, meat, oils and homemade desserts.
These are accompanied by local delicacies
such as olives, grapes and chestnuts.
O
58 CITY BREAKS
OOO
11
12
14
DONT MISS
BAGOLINO
CARNIVAL
Witness the
amazing spectacle
of this 300-year
old carnival
through the
town of Bagolino
every year on
the Monday and
Tuesday before
Lent. Expect
a procession
of traditional
costumes and
a colourful
celebration of
ancient dances
and music.
www.bagolino
info.it
7
3
4
Map data 2015 Google
GETTING THERE
BY PLANE
There are budget airline flights to
Bergamo Orio al Serio (80km); Milan
Malpensa (100km); Milan Linate
(100km) and Verona (50km)
BY CAR
Brescia is well served by motorways: the
A4 runs east from here towards Venice,
while the A21 runs south
BY TRAIN
The north-to-south Brennero-Modena
line runs through Brescia, and the city is
also on the main Milan-Venice line
KEY TO RESTAURANT PRICES
(full meal per person, not including wine)
Up to 25
O
O
26-50
O
O
O
More than 50
O
CITY BREAKS 59
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
Clockwise
from top left:
La Piazza dei
Signori; weeping
willows ank
the canals; oral
displays reect
in the water;
the red radicchio
of Treviso; the
city offers many
secluded corners;
the waterways
are still very much
in use; caf tables
line an arcade;
Treviso is a city
best experienced
on foot
60 CITY BREAKS
Photography iStock
48 HOURS IN
Treviso
Many travellers see no more than the citys airport, but Treviso
The Painted City has a lot to offer. Sara Scarpa avoids the
tourist trail to visit one of the lesser lights of Veneto
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
DUOMO DI TREVISO 3
Piazza del Duomo
www.parrocchietreviso.it
The Duomo di Treviso is Trevisos Cathedral.
In its crypt you can admire extensive
fragments of medieval frescoes but its
masterpiece is the stunning Malchiostro
Annunciation, one of Titians nest works.
CA DEI CARRARESI 6
Via Palestro, 33/38
Ca Dei Carraresi is a stunning medieval
building which now hosts important
exhibitions and conferences.
62 CITY BREAKS
DONT MISS
TIRAMIS
This world famous
dessert is said
to have been
invented in the
1970s by Ada
Campoel, the
former owner
of a restaurant
in the centre of
Treviso called
Alle Beccherie.
She invented it
with the help of
her chef and the
idea came from a
dessert she used
to eat as an energy
boost while she
was working and
looking after her
new born baby.
Tiramis means
pick-me-up and
with its layers of
savoiardi (sponge
fingers) dipped
in coffee and a
cream of eggs,
mascarpone
cheese and sugar,
it certainly is.
WHERE TO STAY
MAISON MATILDA 8
Via Jacopo Riccati, 44
+39 0422 582212
www.maisonmatilda.com
This is a small luxury hotel located right
in the centre of Treviso, near the Ca dei
Carraresi Museum and Piazza dei Signori.
Kids up to 8 years old can stay for free. You
can have breakfast at any time of the day
and wherever you prefer!
DONT MISS
LA PESCHERIA
The fish market
is located in
one of the most
characteristic
places in the old
centre of Treviso,
in the middle of a
small river island
in the Canale
Cagnan. The
morning market
offers fresh
fish, seasonal
vegetables and
a great social
gathering.
ALBERGO IL FOCOLARE 9
Piazza Giannino Ancilotto, 4
+39 0422 56601
www.ilfocolarehotel.com
A very pleasant hotel, right in the centre of
Treviso, Il Focolare offers a warm welcome,
and good old-fashined service. Its in a
great location just off the main piazza
and plenty of good restaurants are within
strolling distance.
CITY BREAKS 63
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
2
12
WHERE TO EAT
CANTINETTA VENEGAZZ 11
Piazza Ancillotto Giannino, 2
+ 39 0422 55287
This enoteca (wine bar) offers a friendly
atmosphere and a great selection of wines
and fresh food. You can opt for cicchetti or
you can sit down and enjoy a full hot meal.
15
9
11 6
13 14 5
10 16
7
1
DONT MISS
OSTERIA MUSCOLI 15
Via Pescheria, 23
+ 39 0422 583390
Famous for the tasty hot panino al
prosecco a small, soft panino soaked
in prosecco and then lled with
mascarpone, Gorgonzola, formaggio
latteria and mortadella.
O
RISTORANTE BASILISCO 16
Via Bison, 34
+ 39 0422 541822
www.ristorantebasilisco.com
The chef, Diego Tomasi, has great
experience working in Venice, Milan,
Florence, New York, London and France. He
creates local traditional dishes presented
in a modern way. His menu changes every
day depending on the fresh local produce
purchased in the morning. The restaurants
wine list has grown together with the
kitchen and today includes around 370
different wines.
O
64 CITY BREAKS
IL RADICCHIO
ROSSO DI TREVISO
This is a member
of the chicory
family cultivated
only in the area
around Treviso.
The designation
IGP, given to both
varieties, tardivo
and precoce,
refers to the
EU regulation
that allows
only products
grown within
a designated
area to use this
product name.
The different
varieties of the
red radicchio di
Treviso are all
the result of the
patient process
of whitening
obtained by
submerging the
heads for several
days after harvest
in circulating
spring water,
a process that
helped preserve
the radicchio.
Because of its
white and red
veining and the
fact that it is
seasonal, the
radicchio is often
described as a
winter flower
it appears in the
markets in late
November.
GETTING THERE
BY PLANE
Currently Ryanair flies direct to Treviso
from East Midlands and London Stansted,
but check your lcal airport for the most
up-to-date information.
BY TRAIN
Treviso is well connected by rail to
Venice and other cities in the Veneto
region and beyond. For more details visit
www.trenitalia.it
66 CITY BREAKS
The Gelato Museum has become a centre of cultural excellence dedicated to the
understanding and study of the history, culture and technology of gelato
Main image:
Bolognas Gelato
Museum. Inset:
getting hands-on at
Carpigianis gelato
university
CITY BREAKS 67
Ice cream
university...
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
INFORMATION
CARPIGIANI GELATO UNIVERSITY
Via Emilia Ponente 45, Anzola dellEmilia
+39 051 650 5457
www.gelatouniversity.com
GELATO MUSEUM CARPIGIANI
Via Emilia 45, Anzola dellEmilia, Bologna
+39 051 650 5306
www.gelatomuseum.com
Open Tuesday to Saturday, 9am-6pm.
Reservation required both for visits and
workshops. Please specify any allergies or
intolerances at the time of booking.
CITY BREAKS 69
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
When in Rome
What to do with a teenage family when in Rome? Paul Pettengale takes
his clan on a short break to the Eternal City and makes some suggestions
70 CITY BREAKS
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
Photograph
Hotel Savo
y Ro
ma
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
WHERE TO STAY
Photo
graph
Hote
l Savo
y Rom
a
74 CITY BREAKS
GETTING THERE
There are flights to Rome from most
major UK airports. We flew with Easyjet
from Bristol not the cheapest of options
(especially as we booked just a month or
so in advance), but certainly convenient
for us as a private hire car to and from
the airport worked out a lot cheaper
than driving to one of the London airports
and paying for parking.
From Fiumicino airport, you have
several options for getting into the city
centre. Wed advise against driving, unless
youre experienced with driving in Rome.
You can get the bus for 5 per person, but
be prepared to wait for a while (outside
Terminal 3). It can take a very long time
in heavy traffic (45 minutes is an absolute
minimum in light traffic double that, at
least, most of the time).
The train is another option: the
Leonardo Express costs 14 per person
and takes just 32 minutes, delivering
you to the Rome Termini main station
from which you can take the Metro to the
station nearest to your hotel. If there are
four of you then a taxi is a reasonably cost
effective option its a fixed price of 48
to anywhere in central Rome (no need to
tip). Taking a cab means your luggage is
delivered to the door of your hotel, you
can enjoy the views as you approach the
centre, and you get to experience the
white-knuckle ride that we did.
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
CITY BREAKS 75
GARDENS
OF THE
MEDICI
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
Above, main
image: The view
towards the Pitti
Palace from the
hill behind the
Gardens. Inset,
from top: The
Knights Garden;
view of the main
gardens axis
from the Pitti
Palace
he poet Shelley
described Florence in
the early 19th-century
as a Babylon of palaces
and gardens. This was
his impression of the city as he saw
it from the perspective of the Boboli
Gardens, behind the Pitti Palace, on
the south side of the river.
Designed in 1549 by Niccol
Pericoli (Il Tribolo), for the Medici,
this 16th-century park of many
gardens inspired the landscape
of many European court gardens,
even as the changing tastes of
subsequent rulers led to additions
and alterations. The Boboli Gardens
survived Napoleons reign and
can be enjoyed today as they were
four centuries ago. They are now
regarded as an open-air museum.
Referring to Italian renaissance
gardens, Edith Wharton noted in
the early 1900s: Of the period
in which the garden began to be
a studied architectural extension
of the house, few examples are to
be found near Florence. The most
important, if not the most pleasing,
76 CITY
ITALIA!
BREAKS
September 2014
PORTA ROMANA
THE ROMAN GATE ENTRANCE
The most level access to the Boboli Gardens
is from the Roman Gate entrance. A gentle
incline passes the Fountain of the Ocean,
the Lemon House, several signicant statues
and the Museum of Costume. Enjoy views
across the city just beyond the palace and
the amphitheatre. Follow the sloping gravel
path beyond the Artichoke Fountain and
down the slope to the Grand Grotto before
leaving through the Pitti Palace.
POLO MUSEALE FIORENTINO
Pitti Palace and Boboli Gardens,
Piazza Pitti, 1
www.renzeturismo.it
The gardens are open every day of the week,
apart from the rst and last Monday of every
month. Check seasonal opening times, and
it is worthwhile to book tickets in advance
to avoid queues. The tickets are valid for
entry to the Costume Gallery, the Museo
degli Argenti, the Porcelain Museum, the
Boboli Gardens and the Bardini Gardens. Ongoing restoration and maintenance means
garden features may not be available and
copies of original statues may be displayed.
To book tickets, call Firenze Musei, +39
055 294883
OTHER MUSEUMS AND GALLERIES
AT THE PITTI PALACE
The Palatine Gallery, Modern Art Gallery,
Silver Museum, Carriage Museum and
Porcelain Museum.
BARDINI GARDEN
Costa San Giorgio, 2
+39 055 2006 6206
www.bardinipeyron.it
A greenway walk skirts the Belvedere and
links the Bardini and Boboli Gardens on the
hillside. The more intimate of the two is the
Bardini, a park of three gardens recently
opened to the public. Its long, terraced
Kaffeehaus is a shady place for afternoon
tea with views across the city.
Photograph
Turismo citt
metropolitana
di Firenze
CREATING THE
BOBOLI GARDENS
A portrait of Eleanora of Toledo
in the Uffizi Gallery intrigued me
on my last visit. The marriage of
Cosimo I deMedici, Grand Duke of
Tuscany, to the immensely wealthy
Eleanora in 1539 was a prudent
match. Their union enabled the
Medici to purchase the Pitti Palace
and embark on the creation of the
world famous Boboli Gardens,
I Giardini di Boboli.
The Medici employed Il
Tribolo, Niccol Pericoli, to design
the initial garden scheme. He used
geometry and repeated right angles
in his plans. Subsequent rulers
purchased further land and changes
in 18th- and 19th-century tastes are
apparent in the present landscape.
CITY BREAKS 77
ACCESS
Enter or exit the Boboli Gardens from any
of three points: through the Pitti Palace;
from beside the 14th-century Roman Gate,
Porta Romana, in the west (see below); or
near the 16th-century Belevedere Fort, Forte
di Belvedere, to the east. The gardens are
partly accessible to wheelchairs.
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
1 COURTYARD
CORTILE
Entering the palace through the tall
central doorway, I step into the late
16th-century courtyard designed by
Ammannati. Two stone wings in the
Mannerist style were built at each
side from 1558-1570. Looking up
they frame the Artichoke Fountain,
Fontana del Carciofo (1639-41), by
Francesco Susini, adorned with putti.
The perspective of the view beyond
draws the eye to the garden above.
2 AMPHITHEATRE
ANFITEATRO
At the top of the curved staircase
to the gardens, the view widens to
the amphitheatre and hill beyond.
To the left is a view of the Duomo
to be remembered. I walk into the
centre of the arena, past an Egyptian
78 CITY
ITALIA!
BREAKS
September 2014
1
7
6
3
4
o citt
Turism ze
raph
en
Photog litana di Fir
o
metrop
CITY BREAKS 79
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
Above: Espaliered
citrus. Inset,
from top: The
Grand Grotto;
drinking
fountain; Uomo
che vanga Man
gardening by
Valerio and
Giovan Simone
Cioli
80 CITY
ITALIA!
BREAKS
September 2014
GETTING THERE
BY PLANE
You can fly direct to Florence but it tends
to be expensive. Most people approach
from Pisa, which has a major airport with
links from all parts of the UK. The 1-hour
bus ride through Tuscany afterwards is
hardly unpleasant.
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D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
THE PROVINCE OF
PUCCINI
82 CITY BREAKS
CITY BREAKS 83
Charl
ie Lyon
out the times and pop along for free to catch full runthroughs of any of the performances.
PUCCINIS PATCH
Torre del Lago now has a population of around 11,000, but
back in 1891, when Puccini started spending more and
more time here, the hamlet boasted a mere 250 inhabitants
mainly fishermen who made their living from the lakes
produce. Puccini built his own villa on the shoreline in
1900, when he was in his early 30s, and moved in with his
wife and son. He said he loved the area for its isolation. It
was a place, he said, where he could pursue in peace the
two pastimes he was most passionate about: hunting and
driving fast motorcars.
I find evidence of his daring hobbies at the Villa
Puccini Museum, just across the road from the theatre.
Puccini did build his villa right on the banks of the
lake, but since then the water level has lowered and
the shoreline retracted. I stand in a room filled with
gigantic rifles almost twice the size of me (who knows
how the prey didnt see him lumbering through the
forest with these!), and photographs of Giacomo
Puccini next to his latest automobile.
The intimate space also houses the very piano
on which Manon Lescaut (1891), La Bohme
(1896), Tosca (1900) and Madama Butterfly
(1904) were composed, and the many more
artifacts reveal a personal side to Puccini that
other residences-turned-museums dont
muster nearly as well.
Puccini lived here happily until 1921,
surviving a car crash in 1903 that badly
injured him and set back his work on
Madama Butterfly. He moved finally
in 1921, when peat extraction and
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
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PERUSE PISA
Youre just 20km from Pisa. Climb the 260 steps to the top of the
Leaning Tower and marvel at the unparalleled views. Stand in the
spot inside the grand Cathedral where Galileo worked out what
pendulums could be used for. Trace the change of style of frescoes
in the Monumental Cemetery, which took 200 years to build one
side dates back from the 1300s, the other the 1500s.
Charl
ie Lyon
een
INFORMATION
PUCCINI FESTIVAL 2017
The 2017 Puccini Festival runs from 14th July to 19th August
at Gran Teatro allAperto, Torre del Lago. For more information,
visit www.puccinifestival.it/en/
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CITY BREAKS 87
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
Clockwise
from top left:
Strolling through
La Rossa; the
the market at
Quadrilatero;
Bologna is
compact yet still
offers a sense of
space; Gamberini
cakes; summer
shopping;
graduation at
the university;
open-air cinema;
and jewellery
88 CITY BREAKS
48 HOURS IN
Bologna
The city of Bologna la Grassa is just as famous for
its food and culture as it is for its ancient university.
Heather Crombie samples its delights
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
PASTA-MAKING COURSE 2
Il Salotto Di Penelope, Via San Felice 116
+39 51 649 3627
www.ilsalottodipenelope.it
At the Salotte di Penelope you will be
guided every step of the way to making
perfect pasta and sauces to accompany
each dish. Barbara and Valeria cater
for different group sizes and are uent
in English. Everything is very handson, and classes can be tailored to your
requirements. Choose a class to coincide
with lunch or dinnertime.
OPEN-AIR CINEMA 3
www.cinetecadibologna.it
A very special lm festival runs for
eight days in summer, with many of the
screenings taking place in the Piazza
Maggiore. See restored classics and hidden
gems across four venues (all within easy
walking distance of each other) which
attract crowds of lm-lovers from all over
the world. Get on the mailing list early to
buy passes, which also give you discounts
at selected hotels and restaurants.
BIBLIOTECA SALABORSA 4
Piazza Nettuno 3
+39 51 219 4400
www.bibliotecasalaborsa.it
A beautiful public building overlooking the
statue of Neptune. It is worth stepping
inside just to see the foundations of
ancient Bologna. The library is also
a peaceful place where you can nd
international newspapers.
GUIDED TOUR
Via Emilia Ponente 3380/3,
40024 Castel San Pietro Terme
+39 51 695 8504
zabgio@libero.it
Multilingual guide Giorgia Zabbini will show
you all the important sights and tell you
the history of the city.
90 CITY BREAKS
DONT MISS
LA BASILICA DI
SANTO STEFANO
In Piazza Santo
Stefano, a
large basilica
dominates
one side of
the square. Go
inside, and you
will discover
four churches
together,
amalgamated
from seven on
a site originally
dedicated to
Isis. Each edifice
houses artworks
and items
of historical
and religious
significance.
Do see the
stunning brick
dome of Chiesa
del San Sepolcro
and Pilates
Courtyard with
its decorative
font.
Via Santo
Stefano 24,
+39 51 223 256
WHERE TO STAY
Neptune
At the Salotto
di Penelope
DONT MISS
THE GELATO
The Carpigiani
factory just
outside Bologna
attracts people
from all over
the world to
its ice-cream
university.
There is a Gelato
Museum there
too to see the
history of ice
cream (booking
is essential),
Sorbetteria
Castiglione,
Via Castiglione 44
Sorbetteria
Saragozza,
Via Saragozza 83
Gelato Museum
Carpigiani,
Via Emilia 45,
40011 Anzola
CITY BREAKS 91
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
WHERE TO EAT
12 13 11
5
7
4
LA CAPRIATA 10
Strada Maggiore 19, Corte Isolani 1
+39 51 236 932
www.lacapriata.it
This restaurant has an outdoor seating
area at the rear and serves delicious
crescentine. It is a great place to sample
lots of local specialities such as mortadella
ham, squacquerone cheese and grilled
vegetables. They also serve gluten-free
pasta. The desserts are fantastic.
O
O
Price range O
TRATTORIA LA MONTANARA 11
Via Augusto Righi 15/a
+39 51 221 583
www.trattorialamontanara.com
This cosy restaurant is popular with local
people and serves regional pasta dishes
like rag alla bolognese and the best of
traditional Bolognese cuisine. Whether you
opt for a lazy lunch or romantic dinner,
booking is recommended.
O
O
Price range O
Price range O
TWINSIDE BISTRO 13
Via dei Falegnami 4
+39 51 991 1797
Twinside sits next door to Caminetto dOro
and is owned by the same family. Here you
can have a more casual dining experience,
whilst enjoying the same quality of food. A
popular choice for theatre-goers, and those
with a nose for a good aperitivo.
O
Price range O
92 CITY BREAKS
1
10
6
9
PALAZZO DI VARIGNANA 9
Via Ca Venturoli 1925, 40024 Varignana
+39 051 19938300
www.palazzodivarignana.it
The poolside restaurant at this hotel is
open to the public and offers a selection of
tasty meals and snacks, together with a full
bar. The stylish dining room is the perfect
place to unwind. On the hotel site you will
also nd Il Palazzo, a gourmet restaurant
offering the best regional dishes and ne
wines. The elegant building boasts the best
views of the whole resort.
O
O
Price range O
DONT MISS
CRESCENTINE
A typical bread
from EmiliaRomana, these
are deep-friend
dough pockets.
Contrary to
what you might
expect, they
taste incredibly
light and not
at all greasy.
Stuff them
with meats,
vegetables and
squacquerone,
a local soft
cheese.
Fish market
GETTING THERE
Crescentine
BY PLANE
You can fly to Bologna Guglielmo Marconi
from London Stansted, Heathrow and
Gatwick, and from regional airports
throughout the UK.
BY CAR
Bologna is easily reached via the A1 and
A14 motorways. Like most Italian cities,
however, the centre is not a great place
to drive around!
BY TRAIN
Bologna is served by high speed trains
on main lines. It takes half an hour to
get there from Florence, an hour from
Milan, an hour and a half from Venice
and two and a half hours from Rome.
The Metropolitan Railway System is also
connected to most cities and provinces
of Emilia-Romagna.
Piazza Medaglie dOro 2, 40121 Bologna
www.trenitalia.com
BY BUS
Aerobus services leave every 15 minutes
from outside the arrivals area of the
main terminal at Bologna airport and run
to Bologna central railway station and
the city centre. The journey takes around
20 minutes and a ticket costs 6 (you
can pay on the bus). Bologna bus station
is open from 4.30am to 11.30pm.
Piazza XX Settembre 6, 40121 Bologna
www.tper.it
CITY BREAKS 93
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Cala Goloritz
Su Gorroppu
In the sun-drenched season, with its long, warm evenings, there is a myriad of choices for the
eager walker. I have picked my three favourite day walks
Under the arch
The top 3
trekking
routes to
explore in
SARDINIA
Images Giulia Dessi
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
From an earlier
trip in August
2010
The satisfaction of a dive in the crystal waters after a long walk has no equal,
and the fatigue is definitely repaid by the dramatic scenery
CALA GOLORITZ
Length
4.1 miles
Time
1:30h plus 2:30h return
Best to go week days or off season
(June, September)
96 CITY BREAKS
WHERE TO STAY
SU GOLOGONE
SARZOLA
AGRITURISMO NEUL
B&B IL CAGLIARESE
Via Vittorio Porcile 19, Cagliari
+39 33 9654 4083
info@ilcagliarese.it
www.ilcagliarese.it
This B&B on the seafront of Cagliari
benets from a perfect position. In the
narrow and lively alleys of the historical
district of Marina, it is also a stones throw
from restaurants and the train station.
CITY BREAKS 97
WHERE TO EAT
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
98 CITY BREAKS
Spectacular shafts of sunlight penetrate deep inside the gorge, cutting through the cool, damp
air and illuminating the flora which sprouts from the boulder floor
SU GORROPU
Length
4 miles
Time
2h outwards plus 2h return
Best to go spring and summer
avoid winter
Flumineddu River
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
The path
Expect breathtaking panoramas of the gulf, archaeological sites, and a rich diversity of flora, all
View from the
finished off with a refreshing swim in the glittering waters
Devils Saddle
THE WALK
The path is generously signposted
with yellow and green paint marks,
but it does become very confusing
when it splits into a series of
alternative routes. My advice would
be to avoid branching off to the right
and to follow the well-worn trail that
takes you across the promontory to
the high cliffs on the eastern side.
You can expect breathtaking
panoramas of the gulf, archaeological
sites, and a rich diversity of
Mediterranean ora, all nished off,
of course, with a refreshing swim in
the glittering blue waters.
As you walk up the promontory,
the spectacular landscape of the city
of Cagliari and its Saline Regional
Park, with pink amingos, opens
behind you. Walking towards the
peak, you pass between Chamaerops
palms, junipers and small olive trees.
A wooded valley stretches down to
the sea on your right, with not a
man-made structure in sight.
Sitting on top of the limestone
cliffs on the eastern side you can nd
ruins from various epochs, including
the SantElia tower, which was built
by the Spanish in the 16th century,
as well as the ruins of a Carthaginian
temple, which dates all the way back
to 500 BC, and also a cistern that was
made by the Romans after the defeat
of Carthage. To be fair, and hardly
Read ITALIA!
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ITALIA!
Paul Murphy
Paul Murphy
Paul Murphy
ENIT
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
Clockwise from
top left: The
Gardens of the
Villa Comunale;
Isola Bella;
Taormina
town centre;
examining
Etna honey;
Taorminas
centro storico;
a wedding;
desolate Etna
ENIT
Taormina
Paul Murphy
48 HOURS IN
Paul Murphy
ENIT
Paul Murphy
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
ISOLA BELLA 1
It would be easy to miss out on a trip
to Isola Bella if you are on a short stay
in Taormina as you cant actually see it
from the town, but take the cable car
down to the beaches of Mazzar, turn
right and youll come to this perfect little
cove and island. A private property until
1990, Isola Bella has been bought by the
Sicilian government and is now a nature
reserve. You can take the cable car back
up into town or, if you are feeling suitable
refreshed, get some serious exercise
climbing the steps back up.
BAM BAR 5
Via di Giovanni, 45, 98039 Taormina
+39 0942 24355
This pretty granita and ice-cream bar is
something of a Taormina institution, and
offers a welcome respite from the heat and
crowds. Come for the traditional Taormina
breakfast of warm brioche and ice-cold
granita in lots of lovely avours, including
lemon, peach and moreish chocolate.
104 CITY
ITALIA!
BREAKS
September 2014
DONT MISS
MOUNT ETNA
A visit to
Europes highest
active volcano
is a must. A
number of tour
agents offer
excursions (for
around 35)
to the 2,000m
level, where
you can walk
round and into
a number of
craters, but
the ascent to
the very top
involves a cable
car and bus, at a
whopping extra
59. If its too
windy to explore
once youre up
there, there are
no refunds.
Paul Murphy
WHERE TO STAY
ENIT
ENIT
EXCELSIOR PALACE 7
Viale Pietro Toselli 8, 98039 Taormina
+39 0942 23975
www.excelsiorpalacetaormina.it
The stately centenarian hotel that is the
Excelsior Palace just exudes olde worlde
charm, with its cocktail hours and elegant
grounds, but it certainly doesnt stint on
the more modern amenities either, which
include a swimming pool with sundeck and
a pretty little outdoor dining terrace.
The Cathedral
DONT MISS
ALCANTARA
RIVER PARK
A short stop at
this national
park is often
included in Etna
excursions, but
its well worth
spending some
time among
the surreal rock
formations,
splashing
through the
freezing waters
of the river (in
hired waders)
at the bottom
of the 25m-high
gorge walls or
taking one of the
nature trails to
explore the park
in a bit more
depth. www.
terralcanta.it/en,
8am-sunset, 8.
METROPOLE 8
Corso Umberto, 154, 98039 Taormina
+39 0942 681330
www.hotelmetropoletaormina.it
Right on the Corso, the Metropole is the
hotel for you if you want to be right at
the heart of the action in Taormina. Built
in the 17th century, it has recently been
sympathetically restored and renovated to
include a spa and comfortable rooms, with
restrained dcor and all mod cons included.
The occasional jazz concerts and a stunning
terrace are both excellent selling points
as well.
MONTE TAURO 10
Via Madonna Delle Grazie 3, Taormina
+39 0942 24402
www.hotelmontetauro.it
A funky 4-star design hotel at walking
distance from the centro storico of
Taormina, located close to the lovely Villa
Comunale public gardens and the Teatro
Greco, and with a unique view of the sea
and Etna. It has arresting circular decked
balconies overlooking a pleasant pool area,
and a shuttle bus to the beaches.
TAORMINA PALACE 6
Viale San Pancrazio 56, 98039 Taormina
+39 0942 625557
www.taorminapalacehotels.com
This is the place to stay if you like your
hotel to be totally ultramodern and
upmarket. It has its own spa and sits in
a great location overlooking the Spizzone
beaches of Taormina. The rooms are stylish
and bright, and all overlook the sea, while
the superior rooms even have balconies
from which to enjoy the view.
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
14
WHERE TO EAT
13
6
8
7
LA GIARRA 12
Vico la Floresta 1, 98039 Taormina
+39 0942 23360
www.lagiarataormina.it
This is the place to seriously splash out,
if you can get in its a popular wedding
supper venue. In a stunning art deco
interior and rooftop terrace with gorgeous
views, impeccable waiters serve superior
versions of classics such as spicy tagliata
and frittura mista di pesce.
O
O
Price range O
TIRAMISU 13
Via Cappuccini 1, Taormina
+39 0942 24803
www.tiramisutaormina.it
At sweet ceramic tables on a semi-shaded
terrace, Tiramisu serves some of the
best pizzas in Taormina, as well as the
usual selection of local pasta and sh
dishes the linguine with mussels, mint
and courgette is very good. And as youd
expect, the tiramisu is one of the best
youre likely to taste. Theres also a more
informal trattoria at via Apollo Arcageta 9,
near Porta Catania.
O
Price range O
Price range O
LIDO LA ROMANTICA 15
Via Naxos, 98035 Giardini-Naxos
+39 0942 53077
www.lidolaromantica.it
Giardini-Naxos makes a nice short excursion
from Taormina, offering a good mix of
beach and culture. At the former, la
Romantica stands out for a ne selection of
sh dishes and a lovely setting.
O
Price range O
106 CITY
ITALIA!
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LA PIAZZETTA 11
5/7, Vico Paladini, 98039 Taormina
+39 0942 626317
www.ristorantelapiazzettataormina.it
Nestled in the charming courtyard of
Piazza Paladini, this popular restaurant
has all the local dishes, including pasta
a la Norma (named after Sicilian hero
Bellini and featuring aubergine, basil and
smoked ricotta), but its best dishes are
undoubtedly the sh ones. Friendly staff
will talk you through the menu.
O
O
Price range O
3
15
DONT MISS
TEATRO GRECO
Built in the 3rd
century BC by
the Greeks, and
later modied
and enlarged by
the Romans, this
is a beautiful,
amazingly
well-preserved
horseshoeshaped theatre
whose nine
stands face a
stage backed
by surely the
most impressive
backdrop
imaginable the
majestic Mount
Etna. Via del
Teatro Greco 1,
98039 Taormina,
+39 0942
23220, open
from 9am to
one hour before
sunset.
ENIT
Paul Murphy
Isola Bella
GETTING THERE
BY PLANE
There are ights to Catania from
Gatwick, Luton, and other regional
aeroports around the UK. Catania airport
is 50 miles from Taormina. See www.
etnatrasporti.it for information about
direct buses between Catania airport and
Taormina. Buses leave every 90 minutes
and the journey takes about 90 minutes.
Paul Murphy
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
Here is the heart of the city, tabled terraces, mopeds aplenty and long walkways
of grey swirled paving with decorative shapes like tidemarks on a beach
hatever time of
year you visit
Sorrento, it
always seems
to be sunny,
from the cheerful yellow faade
of the church of Santa Maria del
Carmine in bustling Piazza Tasso to
the equally bustling sun-dappled
shopping streets around via Cesareo.
Perhaps this is what makes the place
feel sunny it is frequently bustling
but never hurried. The beautiful
sea vistas and pedestrianization of
the centre that bans cars from 7pm
brings things back to a holiday pace
of life. The crowds can ll the roads
with no cars to worry about. The
trees are full of citrus fruit and the
terraces awash with holidaymakers
enjoying a drink or a coffee and
watching the world go by.
Any visitor will nd this place
charming it exists as a holiday
destination. On a map, it looks like
two triangles joined by points at via
Capo, so in reality it has six sides. It
is certainly a city of different moods,
all of them a treat.
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
Fishing nets hang like bunting between the ornate street lights and fishermen
mend their nets alongside sleeping stray cats curled up in the boats
of statues, leafy and green this
CRIME
Of course, there are pickpockets in
Sorrento, just as there are along the whole
of the coast, but it is far less of a problem
here than it is in Naples. Tourism is what
fuels the whole economy of the place, so
petty tourist crime is not tolerated. Its
not a reason to throw caution to the wind,
but this is a relatively safe city, with very
little serious crime and, with the evening
pedestrianization, walking around is much
safer here too.
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
The trains and bus network is good, and
services cover a wide area. But dont expect
them to be reliable or to stick to any
published timetable they are very unlikely
to! The services are often very crowded too.
Public transport will serve you well only if
you are in full-on laid-back holiday mode
with no deadline to worry about. Sadly you
are not going to be able to avoid stress by
hiring a car, as the drivers here have all the
disregard for the rules of the road of their
Neapolitan neighbours.
WEIGHT LOSS
The local limoncello is essentially sugar and
alcohol avoured with lemon. Its fantastic
on a hot day, but far from slimming. You
can also nd Crema di Limoncello too,
with added cream, but Id avoid this and
not just for the calories, as it is not really
Italian. Youll nd the amazing Neapolitan
baba and sfogliatelle in abundance here,
as well as local dishes like scialatielli egg
pasta served with seafood. Sorrento can be
quite hilly in parts and there is fantastic
walking on the coast around the town
but its not enough.
SPEAKING ITALIAN
If you are struggling, Italians here will
speak English to you. They are trying to be
helpful, and they are keen to practise their
English too. But it is almost impossible
to practise beginner Italian here as the
Italians are so used to foreign visitors.
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
WHERE TO STAY
WHERE TO EAT
IL CONVIVIO
Via Correale 19
+39 081 878 3743
www.ristoranteilconviviosorrento.com
This peaceful restaurant has daily specials
on the menu dishes change every night,
depending on what is in season in the
restaurants kitchen garden, and the catch
of day. Handmade pastas, enormous pizzas
and fresh seafood. After dinner you can
adjourn for digestivi in the restaurants
courtyard garden.
O
Price range O
IL BUCO
2a Rampa Marina Piccola,
Piazza S. Antonino
+39 081 8782 354
www.ilbucoristorante.it
For Michelin-style dining in Sorrento, this is
the place. The restaurant is all white linen
and sparkling cutlery beneath the brick
archway colonnades of the cellars of an
old convent. Or you can ask to dine on one
of the outside tables leading down to the
port. The food is traditional Italian, served
exquisitely, and with a touch of theatre
I had scialatielli topped with sh sliced
so nely that the heat of the pasta below
made it undulate like a jellysh.
O
O
Price range O
DI LEVA
Via Marina Grande 31
+39 081 878 3826
For fresh sh and pasta, simply served,
this trattoria is one of the best options in
Sorrento. Set by the waters edge on Marina
Grande, sit and watch the light fade to dusk
over the water if you prefer not to eat
though once you are here, the tasty aromas
from other diners plates may well make you
change your mind.
Price range O
This is the authentic Sorrento experience today the fishing village is long gone.
But you can still find a slice of it tucked away in the Marina Grande
Back in the centro storico, you can
leave the open space and sea views
of Piazza Tasso and the Corso Italia
and enter the narrow cream streets
around via Cesareo. The shopping
and eating here is very appealing
lots of tourists shops interspersed
with produce, clothing and jewellery
stores, bars and restaurants. In some
ways it is a touristy area, but look
upwards you will spot traditional
Sorrento balconies, decorated in
drying fruit and squash. There are
still a good 15,000 inhabitants in
Sorrento, and they often live right
above the tourist hubbub.
Today the tiny shing village
of Sorrento has evolved into a
prosperous town of 15 churches,
which exists because of its many
charms and its huge appeal to
visitors. Most of the voices you
hear in the street will be speaking
English, or German, or even Chinese
the Italian language is not heard
so often. But the welcome you
receive and the safe friendly streets
of the city more than make up for
this. This is the authentic Sorrento
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
Clockwise
from top left:
Artichoke seller
at the market;
frescoes can be
found exposed
in the many rock
churches; the
abandoned area
of the Sassi; cats
at night; new
churches were
built when Matera
became capital
of Basilicata; all
buildings are built
into, and from,
the same rock;
sh stall at the
market, vehicle
outside bar
Area 8
48 HOURS IN
Matera
Sally FitzGerald takes a trip to Basilicata to explore
the picture perfect area of Matera and its increasingly
famous Sassi just before the tourist hordes arrive
n Matera there is a saying that the living always stay beneath the
dead. As our local tour guide Antonio utters these words I suddenly
realise that the heavily cratered surface we are standing on that I had
mistaken for volcanic rock just moments earlier is in fact a graveyard.
The indentations of tombs that were dug out of the rock centuries ago
and have been worn away by the feet of generations surround us. But this is no
ordinary graveyard: it is also the roof of the next layer of cave houses beneath us.
Italy is littered with picturesque hilltop villages, but you will rarely
experience anything quite like Matera. Located in southern Italys Basilicata
region, between the countrys heel and toe, Matera is something of a
phenomenon. Not only is it one of the oldest continually inhabited settlements
in the world, with the first residents taking root in the Palaeolithic times, but,
unlike many hilltop towns which are built onto the rock, Matera is built into it.
Its history has literally been carved in stone.
Today Matera is made up of several small districts, the oldest being the
Sassi, the Stones or Rocks. Seen from above, the two Sassi Sasso Caveoso and
Sasso Barisano join to form the wings of a dove. The Byzantine monks were
the first to properly start building here, which is one of the reasons why Matera
now boasts more than 150 rock churches! But the city really came into its own
in 1663 when Matera was made capital of Basilicata. The area of town at the top
of the hill was completely renovated with ornate faades, while new palaces
CITY BREAKS 115
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
CASA NOHA 1
Recinto Cavone, 9
www.fondoambiente.it
Learn the fascinating story of Matera
in this old cave house converted into a
museum. The Fodale and Latorre families
donated Casa Noha to FAI (the Italian
equivalent of the National Trust) so the
building wouldnt go to ruin but would
be faithfully preserved as a living memory
of those who have lived within its rooms.
Materas history is now told through
videos in three rooms a poignant way
to learn more about this citys tumultuous
history. Although there is no entry fee, a
donation of 4 is suggested.
MURGIA TIMONE 3
Look out over the ravine from the Sassi
and you will marvel at the primitive caves
on the hillside of Murgia Timone, which
were often used by shepherds tending
their ocks. Cross over the ravine into
the natural park and you can explore the
caves on foot, marvel at fauna and ora,
and get the chance to take the postcardperfect photo of the Sassi. Offering
different plants throughout the year, this
is a great place to visit in any season. It
is also one of the locations used to lm
the recent Ben-Hur movie.
TAKE A TOUR 4
With Sassis streets all looking fairly
similar, get the best from a short visit to
Matera by booking a guide. I had tours
with two different guides, both of whom
I would thoroughly recommend. Antonio
Manicone was born in the Matera area
and speaks impeccable English nd him
at www.materatourguide.it. If youd like
to take a themed tour of Matera, eg, a
culinary trip, or youd prefer to take in
the sights by bike, get in touch with Dora
Cappiello at www.ferulaviaggi.it
DONT MISS
BEN-HUR
Following on
from its starring
role in Mel
Gibsons The
Passion of the
Christ, Matera
has been chosen
as a film set
once again,
this time in the
remake of the
epic Ben-Hur.
Stars Jack
Huston, Morgan
Freeman and
Toby Kebbell
could be found
wandering
the streets of
Matera during
filming. The film
was released in
August 2016.
WHERE TO STAY
DONT MISS
CAPITAL OF
CULTURE
Matera has been
picked as one of
Europes Capitals
of Culture in
2019, along
with Plovdiv,
Bulgaria. It
is the perfect
chance for the
town to show
how times have
changed since it
was called the
shame of Italy
in the 1950s,
and for Matera
to promote its
rich history,
beautiful
scenery and
diverse culture.
www.materabasilicata2019
.it/en
LHOTEL IN PIETRA 6
Via San Giovanni Vecchio, 22
+39 0835 344040
www.hotelinpietra.it
This boutique hotel in the Sassi is housed
in an old church, with the building dating
back to 1300. With only seven rooms and
two suites you need to book early, but
each exudes character and style. Beautifully
renovated in 2008, if you like the idea of
staying in one of the old cave dwellings,
but also enjoy a touch of luxury, this is the
choice for you! The suite offers a two-storey
room with bathtub built into the stone and
rain shower on the ground oor, plus kingsize bed on the rst oor, while the more
basic room has a bed carved into the stone
framework and panoramic views of the city.
Theres something to suit most budgets.
INFORMATION
To find out more about Matera
and the surrounding area, visit
www.discoverbasilicata.com
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
5
3
WHERE TO EAT
OI MARI 8
Via Fiorentini, 66
www.oimari.it
Oi Mari is a real favourite with the locals,
and once youve eaten here youll understand
why. A pizzeria in a lovely cave setting,
the pizza is just as good as youd expect,
but the rest of the menu is worth exploring
too! We enjoyed a delicious Italian version
of sh and chips, with battered salt cod
and sun-dried red pepper crisps, artichoke
croquettes, and thin fried potatoes with
ham, onion relish and reduced wine drizzle.
The desserts are to be recommended too!
Thoroughly recommended.
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Map data 2015 Google
BACCANTI RISTORANTE 9
Via SantAngelo, 58-61
+39 0835 333704
www.baccantiristorante.com
Elegant dishes created from local ingredients
are order of the day at Baccanti Ristorante.
If you like contemporary twists on regional
classics, youre spoilt for choice, with dishes
ranging from homemade tortelloni stuffed
with ricotta and artichokes to sausage and
mushroom risotto and slow-cooked veal
cheeks. Locals claim that Italian sausages
actually originated from this region, so
theyre denitely worth a try!
O
RISTORANTE DA FRANCESCA 10
Vico Bruno Buozzi, 9
+39 0835 310443
www.ristorantefrancescasassi.com
If youre looking for a full-on feast, this
is your restaurant. Sample local cheeses,
salamis and antipasti in hearty quantities,
followed by delicious pasta dishes such
as orecchiette with bean pure. A good
choice of wines are available to choose
from, and the busy atmosphere in this
cave restaurant makes for a very enjoyable
dining experience.
O
DONT MISS
WRITTEN IN
THE STONE
When wandering
around Sassi,
keep your
eyes peeled
for interesting
shapes in the
stone. Thanks to
this area being
under water
at one point,
many shells and
creatures were
calcified into
the stone, signs
of which can
now be found on
the street paths
and side walls of
houses, creating
an interesting
addition to the
stone. We even
spotted signs of
a sea urchin on
one street!
GETTING THERE
BY PLANE
The nearest airport to Matera is Bari.
Ryanair fly to Bari from Dublin and
Stansted, BA and easyJet from Gatwick.
Matera is a 45-minute drive from Bari
airport, but if youre planning to hire a
car, check with your hotel about parking
as this is limited in the Sassi.
BY TRAIN
There is a privately run train service
from Bari to Matera but trains arent
frequent, so if youre hoping to travel
by train, check the timetable before you
leave home. The journey will take just
over an hour. There is a bus service too.
Image Shutterstock
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
Clockwise from
top left: Bright
platters of
seafood at Il
Riccio restaurant;
Capris stunning
topography;
a glamorous
partygoer arrives
in Capri harbour;
faraglioni rock
stacks; Fleur rests
her weary legs
after a long climb;
caf life in Capri
Town; a tree-lined
path leads gently
upwards; a rare
sighting of some
fellow walkers
120 CITY BREAKS
48 HOURS IN
Capri
Fleur Kinson discovers the islands best-kept secrets its
wonderful walking routes, far from the crowds, with stunning
natural beauty in every direction
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
VILLA JOVIS 2
Via Tiberio
Its worth coming here for the walk alone
a wonderful 45-minute stroll from Capri
Town along attractive pedestrian lanes
anking villas and domestic gardens. The
sea views grow steadily more panoramic
before climaxing at the high clifftop ruins
of the villa itself a huge, sprawling
complex of ancient Roman brick. Open
9am-1pm; entry 2.
CASA ROSSA 4
Via Giuseppe Orlandi 78, Anacapri
+39 081 838 2193
This striking Moorish-cum-Venetian
structure with its distinctive deep red
walls was built by an American colonel in
the late 19th century. Its a fascinating
place to while away an hour admiring
its ne collection of historical paintings
of Capri and its various archaeological
nds the most unforgettable being
the sea-eroded statues that once formed
a Roman-era nymphaeum beneath the
waters of the Blue Grotto. Open 10am4/5/8pm; entry 7.
DONT MISS
TAKING A DIP
Capris cute
bijou beaches
consist of tiny
strips of pebbles
or platforms
between rocks
rather than
expanses of soft
golden sand. They
have an intimate,
secluded charm,
and a clubby
atmosphere. Try
the areas around
Marina Piccola, i
Faraglioni, Faro
and the Blue
Grotto.
WHERE TO STAY
HOTEL LA REGINELLA 7
Via Matermania 36, Capri
+39 081 837 7283
www.hotellareginella.com
A rare example of a low-priced hotel
on Capri, La Reginella is in the hills
above the town and very friendly.
Rooms are simple but clean and
comfortable and great views.
La Casa Rossa,
Anacapri
DONT MISS
MONTE SOLARO
At 600 metres
above sea level,
this is the very
highest point on
Capri. It enjoys all
the gobsmacking
views of the
island and its
surrounding
landmasses
that you might
imagine. You can
climb up here on
foot, or take the
scenic chairlift
ride up from
Anacapri.
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
1 11
WHERE TO EAT
RISTORANTE IL RICCIO 11
Via Gradola 4/6, Localit Grotta Azzurra,
Anacapri
+39 081 837 1380
www.ristoranteilriccio.com
Spectacularly set on sweeping terraces
atop a sea-gazing cliffside, this stylish
and friendly Michelin-starred eaterie
enjoys spectacular views of the entire Bay
of Naples. Glorious seafood is served in
lavish abundance. Do not miss the chance
to visit the majolica-tiled dessert kitchen.
O
O
VERGINIELLO 12
Via Lo Palazzo 25/A, Capri
+39 081 837 0944
www.ristorantepizzeriaverginiellocapri.it
Its not easy to eat well at modest cost
on Capri, but here you can. Classic local
dishes, seafood and pasta, plus great
handmade pizzas. There are wonderful
views of the Bay of Naples outside, and
cheery-bright, homey dcor within.
O
IL GERANIO 13
Via Matteotti, Capri
+39 081 837 0616
www.geraniocapri.com
Passing pretty shops then winding along a
fragrant avenue of trees, you nally arrive
at a deeply romantic spot with ne views
over the tall, sea-girt white rocks called
I Faraglioni. The cuisine is high-quality
Mediterranean and international fare, and
the atmosphere is serenely celebratory.
O
O
LOLIVO 14
Capri Palace Hotel, Via Capodimonte 14,
Anacapri
+39 081 978 0111
www.capripalace.com
Boasting two Michelin stars, this
sumptuous restaurant immerses you in
luxury. Warmly lit and as comfortable as
a living room, you experience sensual
delight long before the food arrives. And
then, oh wow! Wait until you taste the
desserts, though these are better than
anything. Outdoor diners can enjoy the
terrace beside the illuminated pool.
O
O
EL MERENDERO 15
Via Marina Piccola 74
+39 338 148 6979
Set beside the public beach of Marina
Piccola, theres a distinctly tropical vibe,
underscored with upbeat Latin music. P
iles of fresh fruit lie about, waiting to
be pulped into juices, piled onto yoghurt
or mashed into ice-cold granitas.
14 3
8
12
15
6 7
13 10
9
DONT MISS
INSALATA
CAPRESE
Named after
the island
but popular
throughout the
wider region,
this simple salad
is rendered
sublime by the
sheer quality
of its locallygrown/made
ingredients:
velvety, moist
buffalo-milk
mozzarella,
intensely
flavoursome
tomatoes,
torn leaves of
fragrant basil,
and good olive
oil.
GETTING THERE
BY PLANE
BY BOAT
There are regular hydrofoil and ferry
services to the island from Naples and
Sorrento, and further summer services
from Positano, Salerno and Ischia.
BY CAR
Driving is greatly restricted on the island
and you dont need a car anyway.
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
Syracuse
A city that was once famed and feared throughout the Mediterranean,
Syracuse offers an abundance of archaeological sites to explore.
Gretta Schifano ew down to Comiso to discover them
The market at
Ortygia
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
A hole from a wooden
scaffolding pole
Looking out to
sea from Ortygia
harbour
The Temple of
Apollo, Ortygia
A supporting pillar
at the quarry
STAY ON ORTYGIA
If youre staying in Syracuse its best to
book somewhere on or very near Ortygia.
I stayed a couple of minutes walk from
the bridge to Ortygia at the comfortable
Grande Albergo Alfeo, which has free
wi and good breakfasts. www.alfeo.it
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
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