(ae enn) ECHNIQUES s Issue 6 @ | "Table Saw Tenoning Jig =Tilting Drill Press Table =Tips for Cutting Tenons "Handy Shop-Built ClampsNovember 1992 sprron Donald B. Pesebke sorromat omecron DovglasL Hicks wanacina xorron ‘Terry J. Strohinan astociareepiron Richard 8. Peters assistaereprron Tim Robertson ‘oncarivewiecron ‘Ted Kraliek anromecron Cary Christensen, svernarons Kurt Schulte Will Niskanen Roger Relland ‘Mark Higdon pestewomsoron Ken Munke! ‘esiovens Jan Hale Svae ent Welsh Pworoanaenen Crayola Engl Curtis ‘emeuuerion pwcoron Liz Brees sussonerion uanacan Pils Jessen ‘incuuarion anatrsr Jima Woedson ewesvaio sates Kent A. Buekton commotten Paul B. Gray Accounrme Linda O'Rourke pooxkeerwe Juliane Spears erwore sume. Douglas M. Lidstor asumsraariveassrs. Choryl Scott Jalia Fish receriomist Jeanne Johnson en Griffith Robert Morry indy Jackson. Laura MeNelly Leaie Ann Gearhart Linda Jones ‘Teomueat current Jeff Janos ‘svevems openaron Linda Morrow recerniouier Keri Leo ennie Enos Gupervisoe), Joy Johnson, SaraJohnson, Ami Blanchan, Anna Cox, ennifer Murphy, Chris Lo Jey Carson (Supe, Gloria Shechan, Ror ‘Long, Don MeVey, Cink Caron ‘ShopNote oh ose ed ned (Genny een ay Seon Nore Ae Erie do ae ‘Been, ‘Seubyeight any Noun Caper A ‘n(n 10d Teor ae) SS (Sears sis er Seite a tn wt Subsection Questions? Cl 59-561, fre Sree inventive individuals. Put a group of woodworker’s to- wgether and you're sure to come up with several ways to solve a problem. The same holds true for the way we design and build the projects for ShopNotes. DESIGN, When we decide to build aparticalar project, arough prototype is built in the shop. ‘Then the artists, editors, design- ers, and the shop manager get ‘together and review the com- pleted prototype. ‘Everyone has a chance to ask questions and offer suggestions on how to make the project bet- ter, Then it's back to the shop to Duild another prototype, and the process starts all over again. Ittakes a lot of time and ean be frustrating, but in the end it makes a better project. ‘TENONING JIG. A good exam- ple ofthis is the Tenoning Jig fea- tured in this issue. We went through at least four prototypes and countless modifications. The end result is a tenoning jig with several unique features: a spring-loaded hold-down bar for securing the workpiece to the jig. An adjustable runner that fits in the miter gauge slot. And a ‘unique stop system that lets you eut both cheeks of the tenon — without removing the workpiece from the jig. HARDWARE. ‘The selection and use of hardware isan important paar. of every project. Whenever possible wwe try to use basic harciware. Wing nuts, carriage bolts, threaded rod, lock nuts, all of these items are readily available at local hardware stores or build- ing centers. ShopNotes EER Le The challenge is, coming up with ways to use everyday hard ware to solve unique problems. For instance, on the Drill Press Table (shownon page 4)we needed a way to hold the table in position, The solution was to use an ordinary coupling nut. The only modification was to drill a hole in it for a steel rod to pass through. Simple hardware — simple solution. Sometimes the answer to a problem is right under your nose. ‘We wanted a pad on the jaws of the Fast Action Clamp shown on page 14. I found the solution in ‘my kitchen junk drawer —nylon furniture glides. So what's the point to all of this? The point is: being a wood- worker means being inventive. We try to provide you with our solution to a problem, But all of the projects can (and should) be ‘modified to fit your needs. KNOBS. I'd like to mention one more thing about hardware. We often use plastic knobs and wing rats on the projects in ShopNotes. For years T put up with little metal ‘wing nuts and thumb serews that I couldn't tighten, ‘The only solution was to make my own, see page 13 for an example ofa shop-made wing nut. Then, awhile back I. came across a selection of plastie re- placement knobs and wing nuts, T was hooked. They're easy to grab onto, provide more lever- age, and look better than any knob or wing nut ’d used before. ‘The problem has been finding them, Sointhisissue we're listing mail order sourees for plastic Imnobs and wingnuts, see page 31. No.6Tilting Drill Press Table__4 A tilting table, an adjustable fence, and a replaceable insert make it easy to drill straight or angled holes. Adjustable Stop Block______8 This stop block is ideal for making stopped cuts on a router table, band saw, oF drill press. Its “micro-adjust- able" so you can fine tune the position for an exact cut. rotetnier Bite =< sissies | i210 Guided by its rim instead of a centerpoint, a Forstner bit cuts near perfect flat-bottomed holes at any angie. Shop-Built Clamps ____12 Two clamps you can build at a fraction of the cost of ‘store-bought clamps. One for gluing up panels and the other for quick clamping jobs. Table Saw Tenoning Jig _____ 16 Precision tenons are easy with this shop-made jig for your table sav features aunique double-sop so you can cut both sides of a tenon without flipping the workpiece. Tips for Cutting Tenons ____24 From stock preparation and layout, to cutting the cheeks and shoulders, these helpful tips will show you how fo ‘cut a tenon that fits perfectly. Shop Solutions _______ 28 Five shop-tested tips: Zero Clearance Insert, Depth Gauge, Cut-off Jig for a Circular Saw, Squaring a Mi- tered Corner, and a Tio for Mortising Hinges. Knock-Down Fittings ________ 30 All it takes to build furniture that’s easy to knock down and put back together again is the right hardware. Sources = feats Sav teeh et 37 Hardware, project supplies, and mail order sources for the projects in tis issue. No.6 ShopNotes Drill Press Table page 4 Tenon Cutting Tips page 24 8Tilting Drill Press Table Building this tilting table Dz angled holes on a top that’s added later, The base install the hinge along one edge. alinigniten the ‘drill press can be a real (Ajismadeupoftwosquarepieces Then, to compensate for the thiek- "pain, Usually, you have to reach of 34” plywood held together with ness of the hinge, add a “leveling” guesswork ‘nor the table and use a wreneh a piano hinge, see Fig. 1. serew to the baze, see Fig, la. when you want to loasenabolt. Then you have to DETERMINE SIZE. The size of — SUPPORT SYSTEM. When the to drill pre-set the angle with one hand and the base pieces will vary depend- base is assembled, the next step cisely angled retighten the bolt with the other. ing on the capacity of your drill is toadd a support system to hold holes onthe lstead of doing all this, Ibuilt press, For example, on my 16" the table at the desired angle. drill press. * separate table that adjusts eas- drill press, Ican drill to the center This system consists of two ily for drilling angled holes. And of a 16" workpiece. This means _18"-long steel rods. (See page 31 the table lies flat for drilling ver- the distance from the column to for sources.) One end of each rod tical holes. the center of the bit is at least 8". is bent at a 90° angle, see Fig. 2. ‘Then, to accurately position the Once this is determined, the Then this end is inserted in a hole workpiece, I added a fence with a base pieces are cut 3" smaller drilled in the side of the top base built-in clamping system. than the capacity. (In myease,the _ piece, see Figs. 1a and 1b. BASE, The table consists oftwo base 8 are 13" square.) ‘The key to the support system parts: an ajstable base anda ARereuttingthepleeesto site, isfinding «way tha the rod in [J 2 ‘BEND STEEL | steel Roo GF vxzs0%0 swo| (a “BB” mmo | ee a ae Ge aa | neHTen xnos| exon, TREADS EXTEND ROWE FOR Ur" 00 ‘ ShopNotes No.6JIGS & ACCESSORIES place when the table fs tilted — 1 used a coupling nut. COUPLING NUT.The coupling rut serves two purposes. First, by drilling a hole through the nut, the rod ean stide mp and down as the table is tilted, see Fig. 8. ‘The nut also acts as a pivot. It’s threaded fooselyon a“stud” that’s epoxied into the bottom of the base, see Fig. 1b. (I cut a 2" see- tion offa carriage bolt and pushed it in place leaving a 4c" stud.) As the table is tilted, the nut turns on the stud. Then by tight ening.a threaded knob (or thumb- serew) into the coupling nut, it pinches the rod and locks the ta- ble in place, see Fig. 1b. ‘TOP. After installing the sup- port system, the next step is to add the top. The top is designed with a center insert (B) that can be replaced when it gets “chewed up,” see Fig. 4. ‘The size of the top pieces is de- termined by the size of the base. Overall, the top is 3" larger than the base (16" square in my ease). This creates 112" lip for the fenee that's attached later, see Fig. 4a. ‘To end up with atop this size, I cnt the center insert 4" wide by 16" long and two side pieces (C) 4 Screw nseRt Teen an #04184" re woobserew sert is serewed to the base (don't ie it), Next, round over the out side comers of the sides, and glue and serew therm in place. CENTERING PEG. With the top complete, the next step is to align the tilting table on the metal drill press table, To do this, I added a centering peg, see Fig. 5. ‘The pegs just a dowel the same diameter as the hole inthe metal table. Its glued into a shallow hole ) ceamer ona ® cwweanoscrew ‘SIDESTO BASE By fitting the peg into the hole on the metal table, the tilting table is automatically centered. LOCATE HOLES. The next step i to locate the holes to attach the tilting table. But before you ean do this, you'll need to align the table to the drill press column, refer to Steps 1 and 3 on page 7. Once the table is aligned, just mark and drill the holes. ‘Then attach the table with carriage © (1) #8 x94" Fh Woodecrew 9 (10) #8 x 112" | 6! wide by 16" Tong. Then the n- centeredonthebattomofthebase, olisand Pknobs (or wing ms). | , (A Measeacta | — Woodscrews 5] Sil | © (4) Mot x 194" ! ‘ I | Carriage Bolts | i | © G4) Ste" x 212" y SS. 1 | Carriage Boles tea © (4) Se" x 190" i onal beer ' Fender Washers l Soro OF BAS | | Cae } i re | Co. @ cise ots! | © (©) FKnobewith i See Siena fl murnoioe | | 6) So" x 1 SY a Threaded Kobo CENTERING | 7 oe igo, | | 02) He", cor — —_-- | yoreateoem | | pling Nate Eas Rees weroinos | | «fy ter 18" Tee ea Fiano Hinge Hole Tatts wrrenoerwasran | | ¢ (2) VA" x 16" i es | r Pek. Mis way you ean butt a workpiece up against either end af the stop block, see photos on the opposite page. ‘To make the blocks, first dill two %4"-dia. holes at the marked Tocations shown in Fig. 2. Then, cut the pieces to shape and sand the edges smooth, MOUNTING HOLES.To_ attach the stop block to the router fence, drill %¢"-dia. mounting holes for | ORONO are threaded knobs, see Fig. 3. (I used threaded knobs, but thumb- serews would workjust as well.) Note: If you're going to clamp thestop block toyourfenee, don't drill the mounting holes. 3 CHAMPER EDGES. Before you Grillholes to mount the threaded | Fixep Bock oo, ia rod, rout 2 chamfer on all the | END VIEW edges of both blocks, see Fig. 3. MICRO-ADJUSTER. The key to | making the stop block miero-ad- \ Bi justable is the threaded rod. Nore | FIRST: DRaL Meo noLes ‘Thethreaded rodhasaknurted | “ces + e ‘nut and a jam nut on one side and “FIRED BLOCK | ADJUSTABLE STOP serve asa simple adjustment knob, see Fig. 1a. Then the rod = runs through the fixed Dock (A) NOTE: on HOLE TOF NBER and is “captured” by aloek nut on the other side. DRILLHOLES.So to make the adjustable stop (B) to fit your From there, it screws into a stop lock adjustable, first locate threaded insert threaded insert that’sinstalledin and drill a 44"-dia, hole in the Finally, to complete the stop the adjustable stop (B). (For a fixed block for the threaded rod, block, apply a couple coats of tang. hardware kit, see page 31.) seeFig.8. Then drillaholeinthe oil and add the hardware. PET inten hen saneds 2g FIXED BLOCK ADJUSTABLE STOP roughly positioned and the fixed block is locked in place, Then, by turning the knurled nut, the adjustable stop moves back and forth. ‘When the adjustable stop is {n position, tighten the knob to Jock it in place for an exact cut. i FIRST: THieDe OuBHLY POSITION stor TIGHTEN KNOB To Lock | ANDTICHTIEN EHO. ‘ADJUSTABLE STOP IN PLACE! Fetes | ‘SECOND: URNNUTTO POSITION ADJUSTABLE O70" No.6 ‘ShopNotes 9Ae Rae helps align bit. A Fig.B: Rim of bit scores edge. plane away wood. H« ‘you ever drilled a hole part way through a work- piece only to have the point ofthe bit poke through the other side? In 1886, Benjamin Forstner (a gunsmith from Orem, Utah) had the same problem. He solved the problem by developing a bit that cuts clean, flat-bottomed holes, see photo and Fig. 1a ‘THERIM. The reason that a Forstner bit ean do this is the bit is guided by its rim instead of a centerpoint. (In fact, the center- point is so small, it’s only used to help align the bit, see Fig. A.) So how does this bit work? First, the rim guides the bit scor- ing the outer edge like a knife, see Fig. B. ‘Then, two chisel-like lift- ers pare away the wood ina plan- ing action, soe Fig. C. This (along with the small een- terpoint) ereates a near perfect, flat bottomed hole, see Fig. 1a, Leto Forstner Bits NOWANDER.Since a Forstner bit is guided by its rim, it excels at drilling holes into end grain or “vila” grain, Italso makes it easy to drill holes at an angle without wandering, see Fig. 1b, ‘Guiding the bit by the rim also lets you bore partial holes on the edge of a workpiece — it's the only drill bit that can easily and cleanly cut a partial hole on an edge, see Fig, le. You can also drill overlapping holes without the bit wandering. This makes a Forstner bit an ex cellent choice for drilling out a mortise, see Fig. 1d. DRILLING TIPS. Regardless of the type of wood that you're go- ing to be drilling with a Forstner bit, there are three simple rules to remember. First, always use the slowest possible speed. Most Forstner bits aren't made of high-speod steel. When they're run at high speeds, they heat up quickly and burn the bit and the workpiece. Second, Forstner bits are de- signed for use only ina drill press, Itsdiffcutt tomaintain a constant, slow speed with a hand-held vari- able speed drill. That's because as ‘you press down, there'sa tendeney ‘to increase the speed. Third, make sure the bits are sharp. A sharp Forstner bit sliees ‘through the wood and produces ong ribbons of shavings, see photo above. 1 a ] b. FLAT BOTTOMED ANGLED HOLES: HOLES RIM GUIDES : Ss rrs 0 ous PARTIAL HOLES [% | overLArriINe [4 tte ro HOLES Howse ShopNotes, No.6Manufacturers eurrently call any rim-guided bit with a single or double lifter a “Forstner” bit. (Por sources, see page 31.) DOUBLE-LIFTER BITS Doublesifter bits are the most common of the Forstner bits. ‘CONVALCO. Connecticut Valley Manufacturing Company (CON: VALCO) is the only company we know ofthat still makesa true eopy of the original Forstner bit, see Fig. 2. They're available in sizes from 14" to 3” in 146" increments. Although the most estly ofthe steel bits, they're machined from solid stock and are hand sharp- ened. The tiny centerpoint leaves a clean flat-bottomed hole, see Fig. 2. But this ean make it diff- cult to position the bit.) IMPORTED BITS. Several foreign companies manufacture their own version of a Forstner bit. They-re ceagy to identify with their long cen- terpoint andnotched rim, see Fig.2 (The notch allows themamafacturer to grind the lifters by machine.) Available in ¥4" inerements, they produce fairly clean holes at arelativoly low cost — but witha noticeable centerpoint. SINGLE-LIFTER BITS Another variation on Forstner bits are single lifter bits, some- Forstner Bit Types ___ 2 DOUBL! BITS -ONVALCO Hao LIFTER, E ( IMPORTED orci rom MACHINE Sano INGLE LIFTER | BITS ase Snot) (Gar AND ABOVE) No centeRronr— times called mortising bits (like those manufactured by Vermont American), see Fig. 3. ‘These inexpensive bits have a noteh eut out of the rim to forma single lifter: They are designed for use in a drill press and drill precise, flat-bottomed holes that require little clean-up. ‘The only problem with these bits is the feed rate. Since the bit only has a single lifter to pull ont the chips, you need to ease the bit: slowly into the workpiece, Carbide-Tipped Forstner Bits Tt was just a matter of time be- fore soineone combined the eut- ‘ing action of a Forstner bit with the durability of carbide. ‘One ine of carbide-tipped Forstner bits is offered by Freud, Sizesrange from 14° to246" diame- tern 46" increments, sce photo. Freud says these bits last 40 times longer than steel bits. In addition, they ean bore through Formiea and other solid surface materials (such as Corian) with- ‘out dulling quickly. Another company that offers carbide+tipped bits is MILCS, see photo. Available in diameters from 34" to 314", they look like a modified router bit, but perform just like a standard Forstner bit, ‘The only problem is their short length limits the depth of the hole you can drill. (For sources of car hide tipped bits, see page 31.) No.6 ShopNotes i© (1 136" x 56" Fork Metal Strap © (1) ¥e" x 8" Threaded Rod © (2) 6d alls © (1) 9" Washer © (1) 36" Plastic Wing Nut © (2)#8.x1"Rh | Woodscrews toss \ ST Shop-Built ° Clamps Build a fast-action clamp and a bar clamp from scrap pieces of wood and a few pieces of hardware. photo. (For sourees of GROVES. After the rails are hardware to make both euttolength,agrooveis cut along. clamps, see page 31.) the inside face of each rail, see Fig. 1b. The grooves ereate a Peas BAR CLAMP channel for a metal strap that’s N: matter how many clamps ‘The bar damp has three main used to adjust the clamp. you have, there's always a _ parts: a bar, a fixed clamp head, ASSEMBLE BAR. Now the bar project that requires afew more. and an adjustable clamp head. _can be assembled by gluing two But rather than buy more clamps, BAR. The bar consists of two small spacer blocks (B) between T decided to build my own. rails (A), see Fig. 1. The length — the rails, see Fig. 1. One is a fast-aetion clamp for of these rails (minus the length of Also, a large fized head block light jobs, see top photo. (To build the two clamp heads) determines _(C) is glued between the rails at this clamp, see page 14.) The the useful length of the lamp. one end. However, before gluing tlhe: in bar camp dengned for cat thevallad@ long fe getane- thinblcckbetween thevail dail @D ‘gluing up wide panels, see bottom ful length of 36". a hole to allow a threaded rod RT ‘ADJUSTABLE CLAMP HEAD~ ‘S85 36" PERFORATED METAL srRAP Note: AuerocK 1s sa i NoTE: BAR IS MADE BY GLUING SPACER BLOEKS AND FDIED HEAD BLoce SeIEEN RAS | Et ee] ShopNotes No.6Sr 2) reeve — OntoP Conner BA HOLE e 3 ‘SECOND: Foam, onus Span Rosse marie Spbar ro ear id ROD Ceane ee onND OR Fue aioe nar (which is added later) to pass through, see Fig. 2 ADD StDES. To strengthen the fixed head block, I added two34"- thick side pieces (D). Then bevel the top outside corner to relieve the sharp edges. After completing the fixed clamp head, the next step is to add the clamp hardware. STEEE STRAP. What makes this clamp work is a 86" length of perforated (rigid) metal strap, see Fig. 1. It sold in home cen- ters and used to brace walls in house construction. ‘THREADED ROD. The strap is attached to a threaded rod. To do this, grind a “flat” on the rod and then drill holesin both pieces, see Fig. 8. I used 6d nails to fasten the strap to the rod, see Fig. 3a. INSTALL ASSEMBLY. Now the clamp mechanism can be in- stalled, Just slide the rod into the open end of the bar so the strap follows the grooves in the rails ‘Then pass the rod through the hole in the fixed head, refer to Fig. 1a. Next, slip on a washer and thread a plastic wing nut on the rod. (Or you can make your own wing nut, see box.) By tightening the nut, the strap slides through the grooves. That's where the ad- justable clamp head comes in, ADJUSTABLE HEAD. Like the fixed head, it's built up by gluing a center block (B) between two side pieces (P), see Vig. 4. The No.6 center block is cut, wider (taller) than the side pieces soit fits down Detweem the rails, SCREWS. After the glue dries, two roundhead screws are in- stalled in the bottomofthe center block. The heads of the screws drop into the holes in the metal strap. Then as the strap slides in the grooves, the adjustable head draws tight against a workpiece. ‘Thadjust the clamp fora differ- cent size panel, just fit the serews into another set ofholes. Note: Be sure tolocate theserews tomateh the centerpoints of the holes in A wide strip of the strap, see Fig, 4a, : OE iy sting te comer of the adjustable head, "“@¢P” Then rout or sand a chamfer on 974 the strap the outside edges of the bar and free of glue. both clamp heads. FINISH. Finally, brush on a cou- ple coats of polyurethane, 4 a Nore: center BLOCK ie 259"-MiDE ox mm woooscrew 44'-thick stock and a hex nut, Here's an easy way to make a wing nut from a scrap piece of Just drill a counterbored hole and drive in the nut so the “eor- ners” cut into the side of the hole. " rf laa ciel ‘To provide knuckle room, Teut ena away part of the bottom edge of { Bohol the block and then chamfered the sharp edges. > sharp edges. ee EVEL TOP ews he OPOO ShopNotesSr Fast-Action Clamp ee Sa A x9 TONG DONEL. Sioreai THREADED STAR RNR ier Brass roo Yon Brace: © (1) Vo"x12" Brave Rod © (8) Yio" x V4" Brave Strips-12" long © (1) ¥a"x2" Hex Bolt © (1)%6" Threaded Insert (1) Fie" x 2¥4"-Long Threaded Knob © (8) %" Nyon Glides Spreader Clamp & To apply outward pressure with the fust-ac- tion, clamp, reverse the jae. As the clamp is tightened, the jaws work like a spreader. 14 \ seam, 1 FIRST: seas ae Wy NOTE: 2 | centemcroove On EDOE OF AE ferveer euizoreran| [COREY sxoranr euse| | AREH-nce Another shop-made clamp that I from one edge, see Fig. 1. Then rip find especially handy is the fast- the bar to final width, cutting the action clamp shown at left. holes inhalfto create the serrations, ‘The clamp is designed with BRASSSTRIR To protect the three parts: abar,a fixed jaw, and bar from dents when the threaded a sliding jaw. The principle be- knob is tightened, I cut. a groove hhind this clamp is a simple pivot. _ and glued brass strips on the edge ‘he pivot point is a stee! pin in the sliding jaw, refer to Fig. 7. When you slide the jaw snug against a workpiece, the pin “eatches” in one of the serrations ‘on the edge ofthe bar. Then, tight- ‘ening a threaded knob pivots the jaw against a workpiece. ‘BAR. Ibegan building the clamp by making the bar (A). It starts as a blank of ¥2"thick stock (I used maple) that’s cut to a rough width of2", see Fig. 1. Note: The length of the bar is 412" longer than the wsable clamping distance. ‘To clamp projects up to two feet, Tet the blank 2814" long. SERRATIONS. The next step is to cut the serrations in the bar. This is a two-step process. First, drill series of holes centered 112" ShopNotes ‘opposite the serrations, see Fig. 2 (Porsourcesofbrass, see page.) FIXED JAW. After completing the bar, I added the fixed jaw (B). It’s made by gluing up three 114" wide pieces to the end of the har — a core and two side pieces, see Fig. 3. (I chose maple for the core ‘and walnut for the sides.) Later, pins are also driven in the jaw. SLIDING JAW. All that’s left to ‘complete the clamp is to make the sliding jaw, Like the fixed jaw, it’s built up in layers, see Fig. 4. But it has a “foot” and a “leg,” so you'll need two core pieces and four sides The foot and the leg, work to- gether to exert: pressure on a ‘workpiece. Threading a knob into an insert. in the foot pivots the jaw on the pin. This presses a ny- No.6ST lon “Sioe” on the leg against the ‘workpiece. (Fused a nylon furni- ture glide for the shoe.) SHOE. The trick is to make the shoe pivot soitremains lat against a workpiece even when the clamp is tightened at-an angle. To do this, Tadded a simple pivot device. ‘A short section of dowel restsin 1 partial hole on the edge of the core piece, see Fig. 4. When the sides are glued onlater, the dowel is “eaptured”’ in the opening, At- taching the shoe to this dowel al- lows the shoe to pivot as the dowel rotates in the opening. DRILL OPENING. make the opening, first eut, the core piece for the leg to rough width, see Fig. 5. Then drill a 4'-dia, hole and rip the core piece to its fin- ished width, see Fig. 5a. ASSEMBLE Jaw. Now the lay- cers of the jaw ean be glued up, see Fig. 4.To prevent glue from lock- ing the dowel in place, I waxed ‘the dowel and opening, ‘THREADED INSERT. After the glue dries, drill ahole inthe foot for a threaded insert, ce Fig. 6a, But before installing the insert, trim the foot at-an angle to increase the swing of the jaw, see Fig. 6. PIVOT PIN. The next step is to Grill ahole in the leg for the pivot pin, see Fig, 7. To make the pin, 4 Se oIn a waxDoWeL AND Orenne BEFORE ‘GLUING sIDes ~< ne ae Les ‘cut the head and threads off hex bolt. Then epoxy the smooth part of the shank in the hole and file the ends smooth. FINAL DETAILS: All that's left to complete the clampis toadd a few final details. BRASS ROD. First, the corners of each jaw are reinforeed with . OFINIBHED wots Cont rice OF 186 ‘SECOND: piceos of 18" brass rod, see Fig. 7. After drilling the holes, drive in short pieces of brass rod and file the ends flush with the surface. SHOES. The last step is to drill holes and attach the shoes (nylon glides). To use the clamp as a spreader, I added a shoe to both sides of the fixed jaw, referto box on page 14. ‘CENTER SHOE cenren Di, her 2 THREADED ‘center som ‘HOLE ON pr ROW END | enor sues | parca PRAEEROP | nese anos —L TTorworuaw [_ ‘ShopNotes 15ITT Table-Saw Tenoning Jig ‘flipping the workpiece. And a built- in clamp ensures accurate tenons. ne of the fastest, ways to cut tenons on the table saw is to use a tenoning jig. The typical versions of these jigs allow yon to hold the work- piece vertically so you can cut one cheek of the tenon ina single pass over the saw blade. (For more on this, see page 23.) ‘But these types of tenoning jigs have a couple of drawbacks. First, tomake the Second cheek eut you need to unclamp the workpiece, flip it around, then clamp it in place again. Second, its very difficult to cut an accurate offset tenon. (A tenon that’s not centered on the thickness of the workpiece.) DOUBLE-STOP SYSTEM. The double-stop system on this jig solves both of these problems, see photo (A). Onee the stops are adjusted you can make both check cuts without removing the workpiece. In ad- dition, this jig makes it easy to adjust the width and position of the tenon on the end of the workpiece. BACK SroP. Another interesting feature of this tenoning jigis the back stop, see photo (B).’The back stop supports the workpiece as it’s pushed through the saw blade. It can be adjusted up and down so you won't cut through the stop when cutting tenons. HOLD-DOWNBAR.To cut accurate tenons, the ‘workpiece needs to be securely clamped tothe tenon- ing jig. The problem with most clamps is you need ‘three hands to use them— two tohold the damp, and ‘one to position the workpiece. Instead, I added a spring-loaded hold-down bar to hold the workpiece in place, see photo (C). (For hardware, see page 31.) (8) Back Stop: The height of the back (C) Hold-Down Bar: This spring-loaded e stop is adjustable to prevent the saw clamp holds the workpiece secure as (A) Double-Stop System: This unique stop system lets you cut both cheeks of tenon without flipping the workpiece. blade fram cutting through it it's pushed past the saw blade. 16 ShopNotes No.6aan EXPLODED VIEW eurroRT SLIDING PLATFORM rr HOLD-DOWN, BAR woobscxew —woatscrew Materials List Wood Farts Hardware A Base (1) 9x14 - 4 Plywood '* (4) No. 6x V2" Fh Woodscrews B Sliding Plefm. (1) © Guide Strips (2) D Runner (1) Fox -14* E Vertical Face(1) 8x14 -3%4 Plywood F Supports (2) 4x4 -%4 Plywood G Handle (1) Bila x BV - ¥4 Plywood H StopBar(1) 194 x14 - 3a Plywood 1 Stop Block (1) 194 x 194-94 Plywood J Back Stop (1) Yaxt54-8 K Hold-Down Bar(1) 12 x 2¥2 - 1% * runner Is elzed to fit your table saw 850 x 124 -¥4 Plywood tio x 8¥%- Ve Masonite © (8) No 8x1" Fh Woodscrews © (18) No. 8x 1/2" Fh Woodscrews © (1) Va"x2V2" Carriage Bolt w/Fender Washer © (1) Va" x3" Carriage Bolt wiFender Washer © (2) ¥4" Plastic Wing Nuts © (2) ¥6"x 6" Carriage Bolts w/Washers © (2) 38" Plastic Wing Nuts © (2) ¥2"x2" Compression Springs © (1) Y4"- 20 Threaded Rod, 10"-1ong (rgh) © (2) Va" Wing Nuts © (2) Ya" Coupling Nuts © (2) ¥4" Lock Nuts w/Washers No.6 ‘ShopNotesETT ae Base and Sliding Platform A basie feature of this jig is the [| econpicvr @ BASEN SubING sliding. platform. The platform slides back and forth on a fixed base, refer to Fig. 2. This allows you to adjust the jig to eut tenons of varying thickness. GROOVES.To allow the plat- form to slide on the base without twisting, grooves are cut in both pieces for a pair of Masonite guide strips, see Figs. 1 and 2. The tricky partis getting these grooves to align. To do this, start with an oversize blank and cut the grooves first. Then ent the cuoncrare se ase (A) and sliding platform (B) “hits evo to size, see Fig. 1. (The sliding platform is smaller than the base to allow room for a stop system | SECOND: that’s added later.) Sufi eoee ASLOT. The sliding platform is | ° “8M held on the base witha bolt and a ‘wing nut, refer to Fig.3.'Tomake the platform adjustable, a slot is cut for the bolt to pass through, see Fig.2. To do this, simply drill a series of holes and clean up the slot with a file, GUIDE STRIPS.The next step is to gine a pair of 1s"-thick Ma- sonite guide strips (C) into the grooves cut in the sliding plat- form, see Fig. 2. For clearance, the width of these strips is 14s" Jess than the combined height of [J ver.asne the two grooves (146°). vag STOP BAR. Next, added a stop bar (H), see Fig. 8.(The stop baris part of the stop system, see page cone, geist 21,) Its eut to match the length of thebase andisserewed tothe edge of the sliding platform, LOCATE HOLE. With the stop bar in place, the next step is to extern locate the bolt hole in the base. L ‘The important thingis to position , eee vena PeRaearteesticen| eenak CARRIAGE BOLT the right side of the base, see Fig. pee mene ee 8. Note: Thislipfitsinadado that’s cet in the vertical face later) ee ‘With the platform in position, Grill a counterbored hole in the base. Then slip in the bolt. and ‘washer, and thread on a wing nut. 18 ‘ShopNotes No.6Vertical Face Ser becr rmceess reatroRM soxetn Each support is cut froma square st dame blank, then they're serewed to HANDLE, DIMENSIONS NOTE: HANoUE cur No.6TTT The Runner ‘Adjustable Runner: Screws in the side of the runner allow you to adjust the fit to compensate for seasonal changes in humicity After the handle is attached, the next step is to add a hardwood runner. The runner fits in a groove eut in the bottom of the base and keeps the jig (and work- piece) parallel to the blade. The only problem with using wood for ‘the runner isit ean bind with sea- sonal changes in humidity. ‘To solve this, I made the run- ner narrower (about Yse") than the miter gauge slot. Then I added adjustment. serews, see photo above. This way therunner can be adjusted for a fit that’s snug, but still slides smoothly. ‘TWO STEPS. Installing the run- ner is a two-step process. First, you need to locate and cut a ‘roove in the base. Then eut the runner to fit the groove. GROOVE. To locate the groove, start by extending the platform B) as far as it will go, soo Fig. 7. ‘Then raise the blade and butt the vertical face against it, see Fig. 7. Next, mark the side of the mi ter slot closest to the blade, see Fig.7. Now ent a14"-deep groove on the waste side of this mark about 142" less than the width of yourmiter gauge slot, see Fig. 8a. RUNNER. Afier the groove is cat, the next step is to make the 20 FIRST: VERTICAL FACE SECOND: BUM VERTICAL FACE THIRD: wari cide OF ‘SLOT CLOSEST 10 BLADE iba or yOu Lor ||] THIRD: screw. RUNNER TOBASE FIRST: cur cxoove ia iG 2 BECOND, cur ronnee ene eos hee Ses woooscrew RUNNER ‘runner (D), see Fig, 8. (I used Then eut the runner to size, maple.) The length and widthare Before attaching the runner to easy. Cut the runner tomateh the the base, dil eountersunksholes in length of the base (14") and to fit _ the side of the runner, see Fig. 8. the groove in the base. Then add the adjustment serews, Butthethiekness may varyde- and serew the runner to the base. pending on the depth of your mi- ADJUSTMENT: Finally, adjust ter gauge slot. To determine the the rumner by backing out each ad- thickness, measure your slot and justment screw the same amount add 4" forthe groovein the base. until the runner slides smoothly. ‘ShopNotes No.6Double-Stop System ‘The double-stop system is de- [ signed so you can accurately pre- set the movement of the vertical face. This allows you to cut both cheeks of.a tenon without flipping the workpiece. (Por more on this, refer to page 23.) aia STOPBLOCK.I started work riko on the stap system by making the stop block (1), see Fig. 9. It’s just a 134" square piece of plywood with a notch cut in it for a length of 14" threaded rod. NOTCH.The trick is to eut the noteh go it aligns with the hole ‘you drilled earlier in the vertical face (for the threaded rod), see ig. 9a, [made the notch by first drilling a %4'-dia, hole using the vertical face as a template, see Fig. 10. ‘To do this, just clamp the stop bblock on the fside of the vertical face, see Fig. 10. Then, use the urronts 00 Neo" Fh WOODSCREW 14'-dia, hole in the vertieal face the bottom of the noteh, and drill each side of the stop block) are a @ ortho threaded roa) to guide the hole, see Fig. 1. coupling nt and a wing nt. the drill bit through the block. Once this hole is drilled, screw The coupling nuts butt up After the hole is drilled in the the stop block to the sliding plat- against each side of the stop block stop block, complete the notch form, refer to Fig. 9. and allow youto preset one of the with a sabre saw or band saw. ADDHARDWARE Withthe stop cheek cuts. The wing muts lock STOP BAR. Aholedrilled inthe block in place, the last step is to the coupling mats in place after stop bar supports the other end add the threaded rod and hard- they've both been positioned. of the threaded rod. To drill this ware. A 10"-Jong piece ofthreaded ‘To keep the threaded rod from 14'-dia, hole, [used the notch in rodrans through the stop bar,stop spinning when the wing nuts are the stop block as a guide. Simply block, and into the vertical face, tightened down, I used two lock lamp the stop block (1) to the refer to Figs.9 and 9a. nats and washers to secure the rod stop bar (H), rest the drill bit in Threaded onto this rod (on to the stop bar, refer to Fig. 9x. FIRS; Use Hour m FAGETO LONE ‘ANDDRLL HOLE meroreLoce Use stor BLOCK pou NOTE: came ee stor soe TO LAMP eroP BLoce SERneAL race ‘ootor BAR No.6 ShopNotes 21Back Stop ‘The back stop (J) ofthe tenoning Jig helps keep the workpiece ver~ tical, And it acts like a push block to push the workpiece through the saw blade, see Fig. 12. ‘SLOTTED DADO. Thebackstop is a $4" thick piece of hardwood that fits in the dado (cut earlier) inthe vertical face. The slotin the dado makes the stop adjustable (or more on this, see page 23.) The back stop is held in place with a carriage bolt and a wing nut. To locate the hole for the bolt, insert the stop in the dado flush with the bottom of the base (A). Then make a mark near the ‘bottom of the slot. Finally, drill the hole and bolt the back stop in place, see Fig. 12a, eT Hold-Down Bar 13) ‘To keep the workpiece in place during a ext, T added a spring. @D loaded hold-down bar (K), see Fig. 13, I glued up the bar from two pieces of #4"-thiek stock. NOTCH. The next step is to cut a notch near the end of the hold- down bar to fit around the back stop (J), see Fig. 138. ‘CARRIAGE BOLTS. The clamp- ing power comes from a pair of 436" carriage bolts and wing nuts. ‘The bolts run through the hold- down bar and pass into the 5" dia. holes in the vertical face you drilled earlier, see Fig. 13. ‘To mark the holes in the hold- down bar, use the holes in the actor vertical five as a template. After Sr seenneoNOOD the holes are drilled, install the Slecaiead carriage bolts. SPRINGS, Next, [slipped a pair of springs over the bolts to push open the hold-down bar as the ‘wing nuts are loosened. FINISH. With the hold-down bar complet, the ony thingie @ is to soften the sharp edges on all ‘the jig parts and apply a finish, (I ‘wiped on two coats of tung oil.) 22, ShopNotes No.6Using the Tenoning Jig Setting up the tenoning jig to cut precise tenons is a simple four-step process. Step 1: Adjust Blade Height. First, lay out the tenon on the workpiece (see page 25), Then butt the workpiece up against the back stop and clamp it in place with the hold-down bar. Next, ad- | RUN MORKCECE just the height of the blade for desired depth of cut (length of THiRD: ey) SrsmeD welonn Step 2: Adjust Back Stop. Now you can adjust the back stop. To do this, slide the tenon- @ iG ;ig 50 the back stop is over the blade. Then lower the back stop until it just touches the saw blade at its highest point. ‘Step 3: Set Stop for Inside Cut. exp view To set the cut for the inside ‘ADJUST LEFT cOUrLNG cheek, slide the platform so the NUTTOCUT ONECHEEK | ~STOF Block lade aligns with the inside lay- out ine. Then thread the left cou- pling nut against stop biock and tighten the wing nut. Step 4 Set Sop outside Cut xo EW asarnersinse a Reece ewer ieare onsermenes fe wet Dade eign wih aout ho eee fare oer chook. Ten ast : inert cousing nt, hen he agin andirakoa tesco. To = @ complete the tenon, remove the eerie cere : der cuts (see page 26). No.6 ShopNotes 238Tips for Cutting Tenons A tenon has two essential parts —the cheeks and the shoulders, see Fig. 1. CHEEKS. The purpose of the cheeks is to provide a gluing sur- face against the sides of a mortise (a square hole or slot eut in the ad- ‘joining piece to accept the tenon), ‘When you cut the cheeks, you also define the thickness of the tenon. This is the critical dimen- sion for a strong glue joint — the tenon must be thick enough to fit snugly into the mortise. But not so tight that it squeezes the glue out of the joint. SHOULDERS. The other im- portant parts of a tenon are the shoulders. The shoulders are de- signed to do a couple of things. First, they cover up any small gaps around the mortise, And they contribute to the mechanical strength of the joint. Inits simplest forma tenon has two long shoulders which are cut on the faces of the workpiece, see Fig.1. These shoulders define the length of the tenon and deter- mine how deep the tenon slides into the mortise. In addition, many woodwork- ers also cut short shoulders on the edge of the workpiece, see Fig. 1. These short shoulders ere- ate resistance toany upand down ‘movement of the tenoned piece. CUTTING A TENON There are two basie methods for cutting a tenon on the table saw —the single-pass method andthe multiple-pass method, see Figs.2 and 3. SINGEE-PASS. With the single- pass method, the workpiece is held vertically in a jig and passes through the saw blade to cut one cheek at a time, refer to Fig. 2. (Por more on this, see page 23.) ‘Then the workpiece is taken out of the jig to make the shoul- der cuts. ‘By cutting tenons like this, it’s easy to produce a very smooth cheek — which makes an excel- lent ghiing surface, MULTIPLE-PASS. When you use the multiple-pass method on 1] TENON ANATOMY @HOULDER ~ (SHORT) TNra. SHOULDER “raceness (LONG) the other hand, the workpiece is laid flat on the table saw, see Fig. 8. The tenon is then cut by mak- ing a series of passes over a saw blade (or daclo blade). Since the first eut is made at the shoulder line, both the shoul- der and the thickness ofthe tenon are established with one cut. ‘This method requires very lit- tle set-up time and is a quick way to cut tenons, especially if you're cutting just a few. The only prob- lem is it can leave a rough glue surface on the cheeks, IBLAID FLAT MULTIPLE FOR CHEEK CUTS ee ie METHOD 24 ShopNotes No.6eee Preparation and Lay Out __ ® Even before you lay out the size . of the tenon there are a couple of things you can do to ensure a ‘good fit. STOCK PREPARATION. First, square up the ends and edges of all the pieces. This will prevent ‘worse WORKMECE gaps around the shoulders of ad- Joining pieces. nats Second, if you are cutting ten- (OnTENON ‘ons of the same size on several pieces, make sure all the pieces are identical in thickness. Other- wise the thickness of the tenon 2 will vary according to the thick Step 1: Mark Thickness. Butt the Step 2: Mark Width. Place the ness of each piece. workpiece against mortise and tenon perpendicular to the mor- LAY OUT. After the stock is pre- lay the knife blade flaton the mor- tise and flush at the end to mark pared, the next step is to lay out tise to mark the tenon thickness. the width of the tenon. the tenon, Note: I always cut the mortise first, then size the tenon to ‘ABOVE TeNON WwoRKPiece fit. This way I ean use the mortise See as a template, see Step-by-Step for every cut. The fence prevents Ahipouty and reduces kickback. [= LONG WORKPIECE. Ifthe work piece is long, clamp a stop block to the rip fence, see Fig. 2. Then, ‘butt the workpiece against the stop bloek and clamp it in place before making the cut. Duplicate Tenons WORKPIECE, LONG stock Here's a quick tip when you need to cut several identical pieces with tenons on the ends (such as rails for a set of frames). WIDE BLANK. Instead of cut- ting the pieces individually, start with a wide blank and cut tenons con the whole width of the blank, see drawing. RIP STRIPS. Now just rip the blank into strips ‘to produce pieces with identical tenons. 26 ‘ShopNotes No.6Stepped Shoulders 1] asa S WoRkmIECE Hs Bortow or Fence Wien evrnmie oreresp, SHOULDER tL A-common problem when eutting tenons is that the shoulders come out uneven, see photo. This is ust- ally caused by a rip fence that isn't 90° to the table, see Fig. 1. Asyou cutthe longshoulders, the piece contacts the fence at the bot- tom, see Fig, 1. But when you fip the piece on edge to cut the short shoulders, it contacts the fence te doe nba [anti e @ Undercutbting — —__ 1 Sameer higher up, see Pig. 2. This poshes the piece away from the blade creating a “stepped” shoulder. SOLUTIONS. The best: way to solvetthis is toadjust the rip fence on your ea. Another way is to clamp a block to the fenee, see Fig. 3. This doosn't eliminate the problem, [eastaey me Bas ‘The saw blade often Ieaves a “ridge” between the cheek and shoulder, see photo, This prevents the shoulder from fitting tight against the mating workpiece, UNDERCUT TENON. One way to ‘get around this s to undereut the tenon. I do this by making the shoulder catsslightly deeper (¥s2") than the cheek cuts, se Fig. 1. ‘SHOULDERS. Another way is to undereut the inside corner of @ ite snoulders with a chisel, see Fig. 2. Just pare away a small amount of end grain leaving a 16" wide border. No.6 TENON ENDS. [3] (2 sen ‘Todo this, start by pushing the chisel straight down alongside the tenon, see Fig. 2. Do this all the way around. Then, tip the chisel at an angle to remove the ShopNotes waste around the shoulder of the tenon, see Fig. 3. ‘CHAMFER ENDS. Finally, pare a alight chamfer on the ends of your tenons, see Fig. 3.mes Shop Solutions Zero Clearance Insert Bf you re- place the metal insert on your table saw with a wood insert, you canent.a “ero clearance” slot just ‘wide enough to keep small pieces workpiece across a thin wood re- placement insert, there's enough flex in the insert to affect the cut. So instead of replacing it, T madea “filler” just lange enough to reduce the size of the blade open- ing in the metal insert. To do this, cut away the top surface of a 12" thick piece of stock, leaving strip wide enough to fill the opening, see Fig. 1. Then round the ends of the strip to match the opening. tom, This allows the blade to clear the filler when you set the insert in the table. Next, the filler is attached to the insert with machine serews and nuts. This requires drilling countersunk holes in the insert. ‘When cutting the zero clear- ance opening, clamp a board to the rip fence to hold down the insert, see Fig. 2. Then lock the fence, turn on the sav, and raise nome | Gree from falling intothe blade opening. Note: Before attaching the the blade through the filler. Theonly problemisifthe metal _ filler tothe metal insert, you may_ Thomas Wilson insert is thin. When you pass a need to cut a groove in the bot- Carterville, Minois 1 Ez] [2 ie aS aoe 1 outta @ { Toror nee oe A eine aenCanCE aso) DeprhiGauge: se ee ee To save time when adjusting the depth of a router bit, [use a simple gauge. The gauge is a block of wood with a series of flat- bottomed holes drilled at inereas- ing 16" depths, see Fig. 1. (Lused a Forstner bit to drill the holes.) ‘After drilling the holes, rip the front edge off the block, see Fig. 2, This creates a cutaway view of the holes and makes it easy to see when the bit is “zeroed in? at the desired depth. ‘To set the depth of a cut, all I have to do is lower the bit in the correct hole until it just touches the bottom of the hole. F.J. Palumbo Bowie, Maryland 1 FIRST: TTORSTNER BrPerma ee) Cut-Off Jig for Circular Saw Making a square cut on the end ofa board witha eireular saw ean be a problem, To ensure accurate ‘eats, [use this eut-off fig to guide the saw, see drawing. ‘The jig has three parts: a base, asa guide, and a cleat, The idea here is simple. The saw rides against the guide, so the edge of the base marks the cut-off line for the blade. To keep ‘AUGN EDGE oF this edge square to the work, the SABE wif cleat butts up against the edge of ctrore une a workpiece when making a cut. ‘Dhe only trick tomaking the jig is to leave a little “waste” on the right side of the base when you serew on the guide, sec detail, ‘Your first eut trims the wasteand creates areference for future ents. Donald Myers Alliance, Ohio @oquaring a Mitered Corner m= Usingaband clamp ona project [—seconp: with mitered corners ean eause | c.au ancte non Soinsioe connen> the miters to slip out of alignment as the clamp is tightened. Soinaddition to the band clamp, Telamp short pieces of aluminum angle “iron” to the inside of each corner to draw the miter together. ‘Toallow room for gine squeeze- ut, round the corner of the alumi- num angle, see detail, Claud Fisher Kalispell, Montana FIRST: cisue Provecr Loosely Here's an easy way to find the ezact depth of eut when routing a ‘mortise for a hinge. Just use a pair of hinges to support the base of the router. ‘Then lower the bitso it touches ‘the workpiece. Now remove the hinges and make the eut. The mor- tise will be just the right depth, ‘Michael Edelman Staten Island, New York RST: race OUTER ON ONE LEAP Sreacn. No.6 ‘ShopNotes 29Pa Some of the projects I build are ting. Basically, these fittings hold designed withone ideainmind— the parts of a project. together to be “knocked down” and reas- mechanically instead of with glue. sembled quiekly and easily. Because of this, the joinery in- ‘This requires aspecialized piece volved in building a project is of hardware — a knock-down fit- simplified considerably. Just cut, PIN AND COLLAR One of the most ingenious knock- down fittings is this steel pin and collar connector, ‘The pin threads into an expand- ing nut which spreads the fingers” ‘ FENOERSY of the nut and loeks it in place, A cam-operated “collar” in the mat- ing workpiece accepts the head of the pin. Tuning the colar captures the pin and draws the pieces tight. EXPANDING the pieces to final size to form either a butt joint or lap joint. Then fasten the pieces together with a knock-down fitting. The result? A strong joint that ean be taken apart and reassembled. “TGNTEN PIN INTO NUT TO EXPAND -RORINGT S102 OF HOLE CONNECTOR BOLT It’s hard to imagine a simpler knock-down fitting than this con- neetor bolt. After passing through a hole in one piece, the bolt is threaded {nto eap nut installed in the mat- ing workpicee, see drawing. An Allen wrench fits into a recess in bide DIAMETER OF CONNECTOR BOUT AND CAPNU the head of the bolt totighten (or | 4" Yonerren vovt disassemble) the joint. : GROSS-DOWEL To rsonpe cueananice A connector bolt ean also be used Fonsotr eetensnOie to join pieces together at right angles. But here the bolt is threaded into a hole in a steel eross-dowel. To align the hole with the bolt, just turn the sloton the end of the cross-iowel, Since the eross-dowel is per- pendicular to the grain, it pro- vides a strong anchor for the bolt. NOTE: rue s.orto iit CONNECTOR BOLT 30 ‘ShopNotes INUIGN HOLE IN cR090-DOWEL PABTEROSD DOWEL les = No.6e Sources ShopNotes Project Supplieaisof- Note: You can also purchase fering some of the hardware and BAR CLAMP the plastie wing nuts individually, supplies needed for the projects For your convenience we are of- see below. in this issue. fering ahardwarekittomakethe $6806-500 Tenoning Jig We'vealso puttogetheralistof Bar Clamp shown on page 12, Hardware sn 68.95 other mail order sources that This kit includes all of the hard- have the same or similar hard- ware (but not the wood).. KNOBS & HUTS ware and supplies. Note: The plastie wing mut is ShopNotes Project Supplieeis of. also available separately, see col- fering the knobs and nuts we DRILL PRESS TABLE umn at right. ‘used in this issue individually. We're offering a hardware kit-for $6806-800 Shop-Made 1 Star knobs have a plastic head the Tilting Drill Press Table Bar Clamp Hardware... $10.95 andathreaded shaft, Refer tothe shown on page4.'The kit incindes article for the length you need. all of the hardware necessary to FAST AGTION CLAMP $1065-204 Plastic Star Knob, build this project. You will need ShopNotes Project Supplies is 5A6"-18 X VON. conn 81.95 to supply all of the wood. also offering a hardware kit to _ $1065-208 Plastic Star Knob, ‘Note: The plastic knobs can make the Past Action Clamp fea-_A6'-18 x 21A"Iong wero $2.50 also be ordered separately, see turedon page 14."The kit includes The -slot nut fitsina T-shaped column at far right, allofthe hardware (not the wood) channel, making it easy to attach 6806-200 Drill Press Table you need to build one clamp. accessories toa fence or table. Hardware, 821.95 (Brass strips ean also be found at $1045-516 T-alot Nut, ‘most local hobby shops.) ts 916-18 thr 0S en $8.50 @ ‘ADJUSTABLE STOP BLOCK Note:The plastic starknobean A Tob fits on the end of a ShopNotes Project Suppliesisof- also be purchased individually, threaded rod or bolt. The plastie feringakitthat containsallofthe see eolurm at right. knob protects your hand and pro- hardware (not the wood) needed $6806-400 Fast Action vides extra leverage. to build the Adjustable Stop Clamp Hardware $6.95 $1065-215 Plastie T-Knob, Block shown on page 8. its 1167-18 tv AS en $1.65 Note: The star knobs and the TENONING JIG Plastic wing muts ean be used steel Tislot muts can also be pur- A hardware kit (not the wood) ison any length bolt or rod. chased separately, see column at available for the Tenoning Jig $1065-403 Plastie Wing Nut, far right. shown on page 16, Similar hard- fits Yi'-20 threads rn..$1.65 $6806-100 Adjustable Stop __warecanusually be found at local $1085-110 Plastic Wing Nut, Block Hardware....o0.-$13.95 hardware stores. fits 36-16 threads.........$1.65 MAIL ORDER SOURCES ORDER INFORMATION Similar hardware and supplies may be found in the {following catalogs. Please call each company for a catalog BY MAIL BY PHONE ‘or for ordering information. ‘To onder by mail, se the Por fastest service use our Constantine's Wooderad TeWendworiew’ | form eneleed with curren! Toll Free overt. Open on Sue The over form ine Monday hugh Pier, 10 fara, oc se 3 information on hai- AMtoT-00 PM Central Tine, Iron Fa fn Fg art ‘le fn, toe | tng and epping charges, Before calling have You meres Baw Pin ae | ee eae Benoa ad VISA Matera, or Di “resetonst Woodworkers Supply | order to: cover Cant ready. ey ‘Brot Do Fit ShopNotes 4-800-444-7527 ed Project Supplies a PO, Box 842 Note Price rubjct tn change Des Moines, 1A 50804 for Jon 3, 1099. No.6 ‘ShopNotes 31F ee me SF Scenes From the Shop Clamps ofall shapes and sizes — even the workbench tools, the versatility of clamps is almost endless itself have always Been the cornerstones ofareoodwark- Whether used as an exira set of hands orto glue up a ing shop. Whilenot as glamorous as some woodworking panel, clamps are one of the most used tools in the shap.