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JANUARY 2014 3.99

THE BEST OF THE CARIBBEAN

BRILLIANT BEACHES, GREAT RUM SHACKS, NEW PLACES TO STAY

URUGUAY

WHERE TO FIND THE


PARTY CROWD AND
HOW TO LOSE THEM

HIPPO CHIC

ZAMBIAS AWESOME
NEW SAFARI LODGE

LIFT OFF!

IS VERBIER NOW
THE GREATEST
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IN EUROPE?

TREND WATCH

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Contents
January 2014

Features
62

Ibiza The thumping tunes


of summer are a distant whisper; off
seasons the time to kick back on the Med

74

100 British Virgin Islands

Uruguay Where to pitch up on


the coast, from celebrity hotspots to surfer
hangouts and laidback shing villages
PHOTOGRAPH: ADRIAN GAUT

92

Portland The easygoing


Oregon city was hipster central at the turn
of the century, but has it kept its cool?

82 Hot hostels

Get down with


a funky creative crowd at these dens
designed for a new breed of backpacker

Where to nd the old-school, chilled-out,


no-superyacht-required Caribbean

108

Zambia The game-rich


country known for its low-key safaris has
rolled out its smartest camp ever

The reception desk at The Freehand hostel, Miami


January 2014 Cond Nast Traveller 5

Contents January 2014

23

54

In this issue

54

14 Contributors

126 The view from here American

a buzz around the world, from Rio de


Janeiro to Rotterdam

author David Sedaris on why the


word awesome should ll visitors to
the USA with dread

the scene, the powdery slopes of


Verbier are primed for wild weekends

36 Streetwise East Market Street,


Louisville, Kentucky

40 Out of my comfort zone


Messing about on the river is a bit of
a squash and a squeeze when youre
on a barge. Plus, tourist information
on the Magic Faraway Tree

42 Where to stay An arty hotel in


Arkansas; Bed-hopping with Matthew
Rhys; Room service in Johannesburg;
UK & Ireland escapes; new openings
in Latin America; under 150 in Greece

42

52 A letter from Lagos, where


nding a good tailor is like trying to
locate a needle in a haystack

On the cover
Nadege du Bospertus
and Christy Turlington
drinking at a rum shack
in a classic Caribbean
shoot by Patrick
Demarchelier

54 Style le On trend: Pariss love of


all things petit, designer bikes and more.
Plus, 24-carat jewellery exhibitions;
On the scene at The Chedi Andermatt,
Switzerland; Men: tracing the footsteps
of Elvis, step into some Chelsea boots
and how to get the Withnail look

61 If you do one thing in.


January, visit a design-driven vineyard

6 Cond Nast Traveller January 2014

going, ale-swilling town of Chester


will make you grin like a Cheshire cat

23 Word of mouth Whats creating


30 Short break With new hotels on

120

120 In Britain The fun-loving, race-

128 Travellers tales Around the


world with intrepid Ranulph Fiennes

133 The experts The Trois Valles


ski guide you should add to your little
black book this season. Plus, match
fragrant rice pudding to the most
decadent dessert wines; this months
best new travel titles; get a wintersun health x in Mauritius and
Indonesia; cold-weather kit to keep
you warm and connected; your travel
questions answered by our team

148 Competition Win a 4,000


holiday in Avista Hideaway Resort
and Spa in Phuket

150 Reader offer Save 15 per cent


on a stay at the Taj Coromandel
in Chennai, India

151 Grand prize draw Which lucky


reader has won a trip to Marrakech?

188 Room with a view Amanoi,


Vinh Hy Bay, Vietnam

PHOTOGRAPHS: MATTHEW BUCK; MICHAEL OCHS ARCHIVES/CORBIS;


JAMES PRINZ/COURTESY OF JACK SHAINMAN GALLERY; MICHAEL TUREK

30

10 Editors letter

Editors letter

ts the middle of the holidays and Im on a mini adventure with my three girls in the
countryside. After a happy dunk in a hot-tub in the rain, we make our way across the
gardens for a grown-up supper.
A table for four please, I say, at the entrance of the restaurant.
Of course, madam, says the waiter. Let me show you to a lovely spot
right here.
Why thank you, I say, smiling in that particular way to impress upon
the children that they, too, should smile.
We sit down. I look around. I look at the candles and the thick
pressed linen, and the beautiful windows, the other guests. And then I
look at them. At my girls. My three absurdly radiant child-creatures,
sitting here so beautifully, ready to order supper.
Do you know, says the 10-year-old, randomly, that peanut butter can be turned
into diamonds?
Really? I respond, suspiciously.
My napkin, says the four-year-old, lifting it up, looks like a treasure map. And she unfurls it with
a whoosh so her fork falls off the table.
Slugs, says the eldest, continuing her theme, have 3,000 teeth and four noses.
Are you sure? I say, disappearing under the table to pick up the fork and spotting something out
the corner of my eye.
Why are you not wearing pants? I whisper urgently, back at table level, to the middle one.
Im not wearing pants either, says the little one, happily. But I am wearing slippers, she says,
woggling her towelling feet under the table so that the cloth slips and a glass crashes to the oor.
Im trying to draw a picture of you mama, says the middle one, ignoring the kerfufe,
with a pencil poised on her pad of paper, but your nose keeps looking huge. And you are
wrinkly like a granny.
Mama, says the little one, do you know that a seagull is called a seagull because you
can see it from the sea and an artichoke is called an artichoke because you can choke it?
But do you know this, says the eldest one, her head tipped back at a curious angle to
act as a vessel for a mouth full of water, that very few people can lick their elbows?
And they all roll up their sleeves and start licking. Forks, knives and colouring books are
now all slipping from the table and clattering to the oor.
I only want to eat vanilla ice cream, says the little one, hanging a spoon from her nose.
I dont want to eat anything, says the middle one, My tummy hurts. And I am allergic to broccoli.
The elder one sticks out her tongue at her. The middle one begins to cry. And the little one says at
the top of her voice on repeat, Puppies have seven legs, puppies have seven legs.
In between grabbing at stuff to pick up off the oor, hiding the slippers and placing everything that is not
yet broken on the neighbouring table, I mouth to the middle one who is both crying and jiggling on her seat,
Do you need the loo?
No, I do NOT need the loo, she screams, tears pouring down her cheeks. I am clutching my bum
because my noo-noo is ITCHY.
The waiter appears.
Would you like to order, madam? he says.
A vodka and tonic, please, I say, the size of my head.
This is the new issue of Cond Nast Traveller. For those who know that a mini adventure can quickly turn
into something so much bigger than that.

Melinda Stevens
Editor

Truth in Travel is this magazines promise to the reader to be an essential source


of honest, rst-hand opinion and must-have information. You can trust Cond Nast Traveller
to give you the unbiased inside track, with integrity and attitude.
All information and travel details are correct at the time of going to press and may no longer be so on the date of publication.
Unless otherwise stated, hotel prices are low-season rates and restaurant prices are for a three-course meal for two without drinks
10 Cond Nast Traveller January 2014

Carrier specialises in luxury tailor-made holidays worldwide.


Service is personal, exible and haute couture.

www.carrier.co.uk/traveller

Contributors

Inspired by this months review of an


art hotel, we asked our contributors to
tell us about their favourite gallery

Peter Browne Writer, Zambia & Uruguay (p74 & p108)


While art was my subject, I grew up in Africa so didnt see any

Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie Writer, A letter from (p52)


Terra Kulture in Lagos, for the cool, quiet rooms with beautiful
paintings; and down a stairway, the restaurant, library and music
shop. I love the vibe it has, a fusion of culture and art and food.
Nigerian-born Chimamanda has won the Orange Prize for Fiction;
her novel Half of a Yellow Sun has just been made into a lm

Old Masters until I moved to London aged 26. The National


Gallery blew me away and still does. I cant shake off the sense
of wonder that Im standing in front of a Titian or Caravaggio.
Peter is our associate editor. He was born in Zimbabwe and
lived in Johannesburg and New York before settling in London

Pompi Gutnisky Photographer, Uruguay (p74)


Id choose a collection rather than a conventional gallery,
the Albert Kahn Collection outside Paris. It includes some
of the most inspirational travel photography ever taken.
Born in Canterbury, Philip has worked in more than 100
countries, visiting places from Antarctica to the Sahara

Jeremy Wayne Writer, British Virgin Islands (p100)


The Dominique Lvy in New York is everything a gallery should
be: cognitive, funny, unexpected. It was once a bank, and a metal
box in the vault spews out free dollar bills at regular intervals.
Jeremy is Tatlers restaurant editor and lives in London with his
wife Tara, nine-year-old twin sons and a chihuahua named Zelda
14 Cond Nast Traveller January 2014

Michael Turek Photographer, Verbier (p30)


The Gallery at Herms in New York: you would
never know it was there, but its on the top oor of the
labels agship store on Madison Avenue, and it always
has very good photography shows.
Brooklyn-based Michael started his career in 2004 and
now travels the world on travel and lifestyle assignments

PHOTOGRAPHS: PHILIP LEE HARVEY; MICHAEL TUREK

Philip Lee Harvey Photographer, Zambia (p108)

Its actually two galleries in Buenos Aires. Proa (meaning


the prow of a ship) shows prestigious artists and has a terrace
with a great view; Popa (the stern), for emerging talent, is in
a big, century-old house, untouched, exuberant and nostalgic.
After switching from biology to cinema at university, Pompi
worked in lms for years before becoming a photographer

a P hilosophy of Life

terrascope
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LIU WEN

Madison Bracelet
INTRODUCING THE HOLIDAY WATCH COLLECTION
ERNEST JONES & LESLIE DAVIS NATIONWIDE

OL KING
COALS
The heat of the
charcoal, vine leaves
and bloody good meat.
Thats all you need for a
barbecue Chianti-style.
This month, tapas champs
Simon Mullins and Ben
Tish of Londons Salt Yard
bring the Italian regions
avours to their new Soho
restaurant, Ember Yard.
Here are their inspirations

THE FULL

NELSON
THE DIRECTOR OF THE NEW
MANDELA FILM REVEALS HIS
BEHIND-THE-SCENES SECRETS

ustin Chadwick, director of the Nelson


Mandela biopic, Mandela: Long Walk to
Freedom, spent three years researching in
South Africa before undertaking the biggest
lm ever made on the continent. What I
wanted to show was not just the man but
the ongoing struggle, he says. So it had to
be realistic, and worthy of these people.
Although sets were built to represent Mandelas
home, prison cell and courtroom, about 200 actual locations were used, all of which can
be visited: the Transkei hills where he ran as a child, his cell on Robben Island, the Palace
of Justice in Pretoria where he was sentenced. Filming some scenes was slightly too realistic
for comfort, Chadwick says: Many of the people had actually been at the protests, so that
emotion and energy is genuine, as are the stones theyre throwing and the exploding cars.
Particularly moving, he says, was seeing Mandela (played by Idris Elba) walk on to the
balcony of Cape Towns City Hall. Those army and air-force men who salute him in the lm
were there at the time, and brought their own uniforms to wear, as were the crowds outside:
all 10,000 of them, singing and re-living history. Just thinking of it gives me goosebumps.
Thankfully, he says, the family loved the lm. Its a complicated one for Winnie to see
because it shows all sides of her. But they felt it was true to their journey. I think it helped
that I met them at the start of the project the comrades, the jailors, the men on Robben
Island, and Ahmet Kathrada, who spent 26 years in a cell beside Mandela. And we worked
with local communities all the way; you only have to look at the hundreds of credits to see
how inclusive this lm was. Equally importantly, the Mandela Foundation gave Chadwick
access to unseen footage, photographs and interviews, so he could understand Mandelas
life as a man as well as a politician. What struck me was the enormous cost the struggle
had caused him and his family, the director says. He spent 27 years without his wife,
without his children. And still talked of peace, of forgiveness, of reconciliation. There is so
much we can learn from Mandela. But it is love that is his main legacy. LISA GRAINGER
Nelson Mandela attractions and trails can be found at www.southafrica.net and www.south
africa.info. Mandela-themed walks are offered by www.pastexperiences.co.za, www.toursby
locals.com and www.ekalatours.com. Mandela: Long Walk to Freedom is out on 3 January

On Greves main square,


Macellaria Falorni is a deli,
cheese cellar and wine bar
in one. Dont leave without
tasting the succulent Cinta
Senese pork or Chianina
beef. www.falorni.it

ragu, at low prices. People


travel a long way to eat here.
Via Dudda 12, Greve-in-Chianti
At his butcher shop in
hilltop Panzano, largerthan-life character Dario
Ceccini will thrust fennelseed salami and a glass
of wine into your hand
while disco or opera blasts
away in the background.
www.dariocecchini.com

At the quirky Accademia


del Buon Gusto in Panzano,
run by the generous Stefano
Salvadori, you can sample
Botteghina di Dudda is a delicious, locally made wines
real surprise: an unassuming that will never make it out of
Chianti, let alone to the UK.
restaurant dishing up
www.accademiadelbuon
inventive family recipes,
gusto.com RICK JORDAN
such as earthy wild-boar

the trends taking


off and those
runningoutoffuel
LEBANESE ART
The V&As Jameel Prize is helping put lesser-known
creative regions on the map

UMEA, SWEDEN
Another European Capital of Culture that youve
never heard of, no doubt about to appear everywhere
right about now

SPORTING TOURISM
Rio for football, Glasgow for the Commonwealth Games
and, er, Yorkshire for this summers Tour de France

LONG-RANGE WEATHER FORECASTS


This year, well be taking our festivals with guaranteed
sunshine and a dose of beach, starting off with Mustique
Blues Fest this month, ending up at Croatias Soundwave

MOLECULAR COCKTAILS
Cut the fancy smoke and mirrors and give us a bowl of
old-fashioned punch preferably at the newly opened
Punch House in Chicago

NO-FRILLS LONG HAUL


Norwegian launches pay-your-way ights from London
to New York this July. No fun

24 Cond Nast Traveller January 2014

PHOTOGRAPHS: KEITH BERNSTEIN; MACELLERIA FALORNI

Word of mouth

Word of mouth

its all kicking off in Brazil


local lauren holmes spells

rt

container hotel in Lapa brings innovation to Rio;


and a pop-up hotel, Maria Santa Teresa, is about
to open in the citys most artistic neighbourhood.

The success of the ArtRio fair has ignited


a boom: alongside street festival ArtRua,
artists are taking over disused buildings such
as the former chocolate factory Fbrica Bhering,
right. www.artrio.art.br; www.fabricabhering.com

The citys answer to Hoxton.


Botafogos narrow streets are home
to gourmet cafs, artisanal burger joints and
cool hangouts such as Comuna, a cultural
space/club where eclectic characters and
live bands unite. www.comuna.cc

nsider
adventures

duardo Paes

Rios innovative and popular mayor is


hoping to extend his legacy beyond
the Olympics with an advanced matrix for
traffic control, new transport links and his
ambitious Porto Maravilha plans (see M).

g
h

avela food

A hidden world of gastro-talent has


opened up with the pacification of the
favelas. Try the pasteis tropeiros (black bean,
spinach and chorizo pasties) at Bar do David,
hand-rolls at Rocinhas Sushi Yaki and lattes at
Vidigals Caf do George. New travel firm Miraviva
organises tours. www.miravivatravel.com

amboa

Thanks to the regeneration of Rios


docks, the run-down warehouses
of Gamboa are a fresh creative breeding
ground, with hip media events and the arrival
of So Paulo super-club DEdge.

otels

Theres a new one for every taste: Le


Paris will recapture a bohemian heritage
on the site of the citys most famous brothel; a

ocktail bars

Hot beachside caipiroska-kiosk


Quiosque do Portugus has gone
permanent with a cocktail bar that has an
extra-fizz machine.The shaking continues
at Bolivian-bistro Escobar, above; Gilda is the
place for sundowners. www.escobary
restaurante.com.br; www.gildanocantagalo.com

ance

The moves of Baile Charme (Dirty


Dancing meets an Eighties disco club)
have hit the mainstream. Look out for pop-up
events in the buzzy Lapa neighbourhood, right,
and Leblons Monte Libano country club.

26 Cond Nast Traveller January 2014

New website +Asas offers


tailored experiences that even locals
would love, from hanging out with a
samba band at Pedra da Sals Mondaynight jam to private lunches cooked by
chef Maria Antonia Bocayuva in singer Elis
Reginas former pad. www.maisasas.com

ardim botanico

The streets of this barrio conceal


many secrets, including Volta, a
mansion serving 1970s carioca comfort
food, and designer Isabela Capetos lovely
atelier. www.voltarestaurante.com.br,
www.isabelacapeto.com.br

itesurfing

The latest collection of surf shacks


from villa specialist Brazilian Beach
give access to top surf spots and bilingual
instructors. In Rio, kitesurfers at Barra Beach
can kick back by the pool at the new Villa
Regina. www.brazilianbeachhouse.com

ove (city of)

After Paris, je taime and New


York, I Love You, its Rios turn for
a series of cinematic declarations of love
from directors including Carlos Saldanha
(Rio) and Fernando Meirelles (City of God).
www.citiesoflove.com

ar & maravilha

Art museum MAR is the first step in


a project to transform the docklands
into Porto Maravilha, a pedestrianised
development with a cultural focus. Spanish
architect Calatravas Museum of Tomorrow will
open in 2015. www.museudeartedorio.org.br

eymar

Brazils golden boy Neymar and his


trendy haircuts make almost as many
headlines as his footwork. Latin American
footballer of the year in 2011, he scored the
winning goal against Spain in the Confederations
Cup and is the one to watch for the World Cup.

PHOTOGRAPHS: NelsoN KoN; loNely PlaNeT/GeTTy ImaGes

otafogo

the

rio deAl

this summer with world cup fever. but here


out the citys more leftfield highlights

lAv lorentzen

This exciting Rio-born artist is the


princess of Norways grandson and
68th in line to the British throne, though he
likes to keeps his pedigree under wraps. Look
out for him soon on the London scene.

ChoColAte

The new range from


chocolatier Aquim, which
sells bars designed by architect
Oscar Niemeyer, is super-pure and sustainably
produced. Pick it up at the brands Ipanema
store or from Fortnum & Mason.

AfAel
CostA e silvA

Former head chef at Michelin-starred


Mugaritz, Costa e Silva, pictured right, has
returned to his roots to open his first restaurant
in a belle-poque mansion in Botafogos
gourmet enclave. From this month, the dailychanging menu will showcase fresh produce
from 1,200 square metres of kitchen gardens.

oho house

To much delight, the hip membersclub brand is rumoured to have found a


spot in the city and others are taking their cue
from it. Buenos Airess Clubhouse has selected
its core members (film directors and publishing
moguls) ahead of its impending launch in Rio,
and pop-up restaurants from Pret A Diner and
NYCs Fat Radish are in the pipeline to ensure
World Cup VIPs stay entertained.

W
X

orld Cup

Expect an electrifying atmosphere


everywhere from the sparklingly
refurbished Maracan stadium to the simplest
corner bar and no work to be done for weeks.

pAts

Once mostly from the oil-and-gas


brigade, Rios foreign contingent has
upped its game. Monica Bellucci leads the
glittering Euros, and Brit-girls Jesuton (a
Winehouse-style singer) and print designer
Lizzie Ward add an alternative edge.

uCCA

The root vegetable is now a hot


ingredient thanks to top Brazilian chef
Alex Atala and a main component in ceviche
and chips, the post-praia snack at new La
Carioca Cevicheria. www.lacarioca.com.br

ed

The frontier between tech


innovation and creativity, TEDs
annual event moves to the beach for the first
time this November, prioritising a continent
bursting with fresh thinking. www.ted.com

Clockwise from
left: Fossil 2 by
Olav Lorentzen;
the terrace
and interior of
the new Villa
Regina in Rio
de Janeiro

eirAo
(rodrigo)

Co-founder of Rios online Noo


magazine, this carioca It-boy turned DJ has a
sunny disposition that draws international names
such as disco-king Jacques Renault to town.

nder-the-rAdAr
esCApes

Head west to Vargem Grande for


organic restaurants such as Purani, right; go
paddle-boarding on Guaratibas eco-reserve; or
visit Grumaris deserted beach. Hire a car or book
with Dehouche. www.dehouche.com

illA CopA

This chic new boutique at Copacabana


Palace has pieces by Brazilian bikini
designers ViX and Lenny, alongside British
brands such as Kat Maconie. Its just one
more reason to visit Rios grande old dame,
recently reinvigorated with a 12-million
facelift. www.copacabanapalace.com

Ander (MAry)

A guaranteed sign of a good time:


Rios favourite female DJ recently
launched the disc-spinning crew Triple Crown
with cohorts DJ Nepal and Jonas Rocha.
www.flavors.me/maryzander

Word of mouth
Cool, CAlM AND
CoNNECTED
Sad but true: city planning and joined-up thinking
dont always go hand in hand. But Rotterdam is
showing how it should be done, with a series of
initiatives bringing new life to the area east of the
central station. First up is Schieblock (www.
schieblock.com), a 1950s office building where
architectural practice ZUS had the brainwave of
letting out vacant spaces to creative set-ups at
attractively low rents. Result: its now home to
dozens of forward-thinking enterprises including,
on the ground floor, concept store GrooS
(www.groosrotterdam.nl), left, selling products
by Rotterdam designers and, on the rooftop, Dakakker (www.dakakker.nl), an urban
farm producing fresh fruit and vegetables, far right. At nearby Mini Mall (www.
mini-mall.nl), a series of railway arches is gradually being colonised by independent
ventures, among them music bar birD (www.bird-rotterdam.nl) and current
dining hotspot reStaurant De JonG (www.restaurantdejong.nl), whose
young chef, Jim de Jong, is known for his creative way with herbs and flowers,
right. This spring, Schieblock and Mini Mall will be linked by luchtSinGel,
a wooden walkway thats part-crowdfunded. The more you donate, the longer
the bridge, says the slogan: 25 buys a plank with your name on it and a chance
to do your bit for Rotterdams regeneration. SuZanne kinG

Wet

anD
WilD

Get closer, go further and dive deeper with


one of these extreme ocean adventures
OffshOre Odysseys
Marine adventurer Gavin
McClurg runs catamaran
expeditions to the worlds most
remote wave-sports locations.
His current five-year voyage
will visit more than 100 virgin
kite-surfing spots across
50 countries, and Offshore
Odysseys members can sign
up for stint in one of the four
cabins. We go to places I
never dreamed existed, says
McClurg. Memberships are

currently sold out, but a second


catamaran launches this year.
www.offshoreodysseys.com.
One-off membership fee from
about 12,220; annual dues
from about 3,980
Marine COnservatiOn
expeditiOns
An opportunity for lovers of
the big blue to help make
eco-conscious films. Working
as executive film producers,
guests travel with experts

28 Cond Nast Traveller January 2014

CustOM disCOvery
filMs & expeditiOns
Oceanographer Rodrigo
Olson and film-maker Belinda
Braithwaite lead guided
adventures on Sea Dragon,
a 72ft racing yacht built for
the BT Global Challenge.
They recently completed
a project researching whale
song in the Sea of Cortez,
and their next week-long
voyage, for 10 people,
will set sail in March for
the Silver Bank humpback
reserve in the waters north
of the Dominican Republic.
www.customdiscovery.com.
From 5,000 per person
louiS De rohan

Remote RoasteRies
if you think whisky is the only thing
worth drinking in the Scottish wilds,
wake up and smell the coffee
Fiona Grant, founder of Glen Lyon Coffee (www.
glenlyoncoffee.co.uk), was a journalist in bolivia
when she met her photographer husband, Jamie.
inspired by a uS road trip on which they discovered
a micro-roastery in almost every town, they decided
to try it for themselves in a remote highlands glen.
after buying a drum-roaster from ebay and taking
a three-day course, Grant now roasts bolivian beans
(as well as rwandan, indonesian and Guatemalan)
in a bothy next to their lodge. at kyleakin on the isle
of Skye, opera-singer-turned-barista craig Steele
has founded the Isle of Skye Coffee Roastery
(www.facebook.com/isleofskyecoffeeroastery).
he fell in love while performing Gilbert and Sullivan
here, stayed, restored an old roaster and
opened a funky little coffee shop in a
former filling station last summer.
in the argyll village of cardross,
alistair Moodie started roasting
coffee 10 years ago in a frying pan.
his passion became a business, Home
Ground Coffee (www.homeground
coffee.co.uk), which supplies ethically
sourced coffee,
roasted and
blended to order.
LUCY GILLMORE

PHOTOGRAPHS: GLEN LYON COFFEE; WIM DE JONG; KARIN OPPELLAND; SUPERSTOCK

including Michael Pitts, a


cameraman on the BBCs
The Blue Planet, and Alexandra
Cousteau, granddaughter
of Jacques, the great marine
conservationist. The first trip
of 2014 is to Costa Rica to
film leatherback turtles and
blue whales. www.marine
conservationexpeditions.com.
A 10-day trip typically costs
about 15,700 per person

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Short break

SOMEWHERE

FOR THE WEEKEND?

The Alpine big guns ashy chalet scene is nally getting a shake-up as new hotels open, allowing for a
quicker though nonetheless hedonistic ski x. By Charlotte Sinclair. Photographs by Michael Turek

MAP: HANNAH GEORGE

iscussions about skiing


in Verbier quickly
become discussions
about aprs-ski in
Verbier. The nightlife is amazing,
croak voices that still remember
their hangovers. A notice outside
a bar reads: Verbier is a drinking
resort with a skiing problem.
Come in March, says a local,
and its like Ibiza on the slopes.
This may, in fact, sound like
fresh hell, depending on your
disposition. But such a surface
reading of Verbier hardly does
the place justice nor tells even
half the story of its magnetic
appeal. You dont come to Verbier
for the nightlife, which grows
more exuberant and sophisticated
every year. Or rather, not only
for the nightlife.
The W Verbier (www.wverbier.
com; doubles from about 205) has
just opened, marking the brands ski

Opposite, clockwise
from top left: a
bedroom at Trois
Couronnes chalet,
Verbier; Farinet
Lounge Bar; the
pool at Trois
Couronnes; skiers
outside Le Dahu
restaurant

debut. And 2012s Corde des


Alpes hotel (www.hotelcordee.
com; doubles from about 350) is
as smart as many of the offerings
on Verbiers superlative chalet
scene, in which Michelin-trained
chefs, underground swimming pools
and smiling staff come as standard.
The supreme reason Verbier
has become a winter hotspot to
equal the most celebrated Alpine
hideouts is the simplest: the skiing.
Verbier has more than 400km of
runs, with some of the best on- and
off-piste skiing in Europe. Unlike
Zermatt, you dont have to hop on
a funicular railway or a bus to the
slopes. Here, the main gateway, the
Mdran lift, is a short walk from
most hotels or a people-carrier ride
away. Verbiers one-way roads are
crammed with liveried vehicles,
branded with the insignia of their
mothership chalets, as if each
belongs to its own secret tribe. And,

in a sense, they do. There are


hundreds of lifts, many recently
upgraded, connecting the bright
peaks and sparkling slopes of the
4 Valles, including le Jumbo, the
Verbier to Mont-Fort cable-car, which
swoops up to a mighty 3,300 metres.
This is trophy skiing, but you
dont have to scramble for the
nearest helicopter to get offpiste. Many areas are accessed by
lifts, ideal for adventurous types
who would rather not break a
sweat. And adventurous types
are plentiful: everyone wears a
backpack to ski here (helmets are
non-negotiable), and youre not
worth your salt if your kit doesnt
include an avalanche transceiver.
Such is Verbiers rugged, sportif
spirit that, according to Liz Berman
of boutique chalet company CK
Verbier (www.ckverbier.com),
On the ground you might be a
billionaire, but if you cant ski,
January 2014 Cond Nast Traveller 31

Short break
up here youre nothing. Being
a brilliant skier is the ultimate
bragging right. As Tom Avery, of
chalet operation Verbier Exclusive
(www.verbierexclusive.com), says:
Its not What are you wearing?
its What couloir did you ski
down today?
No wonder powder is the word
of grace. People go all dreamyeyed and gape-mouthed at the
mention of it. Youre lucky, my
Yorkshire-born driver tells me as we
traverse the switchbacks up to the
resort. The snow is epic: powder
everywhere the best conditions
in 17 years. His enthusiasm is
remarkable for someone who
recently got caught in an avalanche.
Set in a crown of mountains at
1,500 metres, Verbier town is
scattered across a south-west-facing
shelf that is bathed in sunshine year
round. Alpinists rst discovered
the spot in the 1920s, but unlike the
Baedeker-guide destinations of St
Anton, Zermatt and Gstaad, there
were no grand hotels to service
the new visitors (Verbier is still
primarily a chalet resort), and until
the 1950s there was little more
than cow pastures here. It wasnt
until the travel boom in the 1960s

(www.performanceverbier.com),
is determined to teach me how
to master the stuff. Im merely
determined not to break anything.
We spend the morning taking small
turns off the piste, carving into
waist-high, whipped-cream snow,
white peaks framed by a denimblue sky. Other resorts might be
better for skiing, or food or
partying, says Mallock, but Verbier
has a bit of everything: tons of
skiing, tons of off-piste, good food,
great aprs and its easy to get up
the mountain. Its got a special
vibe. Its hard to argue as the sun
catches a spray of snow, glittering
like a ne net of diamonds.
Lunch is at La Vache (www.la
vacheverbier.ch; about 55 for two),
founded by the unlikely trio of pop
pin-up James Blunt (such a Verbier
regular theres even a lift named after
him), rugby star Lawrence Dallaglio
and superbiker Carl Fogarty. With
pizzas by Heston Blumenthal, its
sparky evidence of the improving
restaurant scene here. As well as
the lauded Chez Dany (+41 27 771
2524; about 90 for two), hidden in
the trees on the last run down to
Verbier, theres now Le Dahu
(www.ledahu.ch; about 50 for

You might be a billionaire


but if you cant ski, up here
youre nothing
that this place became popular
with a hippyish, itinerant rabble
of ski bums, many of whom settled
and bestowed upon Verbier the
unpretentious attitude that remains
(mostly) intact today.
Im staying at the Neva (www.
hotelnevai.com; doubles from
about 120), a 35-room property
with grey walls, huge linen sofas
and a photograph of a polar bear
in reception. Its a youthful place,
refurbished in recent years to
include a sushi bar off the lobby,
and the bright rooms have balconies
facing the sunset. As night falls, so
does the snow, gliding in thick
urries that turn the asphalt white
in seconds, spreading across
pitch-roofed chalets. Powder.
Toby Mallock, my chatty
guide from Performance Verbier
32 Cond Nast Traveller January 2014

two), a slope-side lunch spot for


cheese fondue. Established favourite
Le Rouge (www.lerouge-verbier.
com; about 55 for two) with a
smart sun terrace for cocktails and
own-brand onesies serves brunch,
lunch and dinner to a boisterous,
attractive crowd. Then theres La
Marmotte (www.lamarmotteverbier.com; about 55 for two),
from which you can sledge home
after dinner, La Marlenaz (www.
marlenaz.ch; about 35 for two), for
great views, and Nomad (+41 27
565 6592; about 50 for two) for sushi.
Not only is the resort waking up
to its potential but also its captive
market. Verbier village is not as
photogenic as Zermatt or Megve,
nor does it have the big-brand
boutiques of St Mortiz; the only
recognisable designer emporium

A snowboarder
near Le Dahu
restaurant.
Clockwise from
below: chalet No
14s master
bedroom; Le
Rouge; a room at
Corde des Alpes

here is Moncler. But as Berman


says, Wealth whispers in Verbier.
Discreet signs advertising wealthmanagement companies and a
storefront for a property company
called Rockefeller Estates (prices
on application) give clues to the
money. People arent ashing
their cash in hotels, theyre tucked

Robertson, This is a super-yacht


level of service. If guests want to go
shopping we get helicopters to take
them to Milan. We employ only
highly trained professionals: call it
the death of the chalet girl.
Elsewhere in Verbier, its about
the birth of the chalet boy. Those
who work for Averys Verbier

Staff wear black and move like


ninjas, making peanut-butter
meringues before you can blink
away in fabulous chalets. Fabulous
indeed. Bermans own roster, which
includes chalets Kernow, Bella
Coola and Sagittaire, is outstanding:
cosseting havens of grey oors,
crackling replaces, reindeer
throws and the occasional pop of
colour provided by original Picasso
prints. Grey has replaced gingham
in modern chalet style; every
property in Verbier seems to be
chromatically coded. The staff,
however, wear black and move with
ninja dexterity, making peanutbutter meringues for post-slope
snacks before you can blink.
Verbier is like a Swiss cheese,
says Duncan Robertson, of
ultra-smart chalet company Haute
Montagne (www.hautemontagne.
com). Hidden under all these chalets
are networks of subterranean
lifts and car parks, tunnels and
swimming pools. Robertsons wife
Natasha shows me around the new
Trois Couronnes , a billionaires
retreat voted the worlds best chalet
by Abercrombie & Kent. At about
155,000 for a week at Christmas, it
is the nonpareil of chalet experiences.
It is built out of 18th-century
Austrian wood and French
limestone; its huge stone replaces,
beamed ceilings, agstone oor,
mink-festooned beds and antiques
(including samurai armour) evoke
a grand schloss. Then there are
the mod cons: a swimming pool
that can be converted into a dance
oor; an ex-Dorchester chalet
manager; two chefs; monogrammed
china by Raynaud; maids in
monochrome Heidi outts; and
a master bedroom accessible only
by a central lift. The clientele are
international and big money. Says

Exclusive are almost ridiculously


handsome. With 13 bedrooms, a
cinema, swimming pool and cedar
hot tub, the companys chalet
No 14 hosts corporate groups and
big families. Avery, a keen explorer
who has scaled great tranches of
the Himalayas, sees the propertys
main competition as The Lodge
(www.thelodge.virgin.com),
Richard Bransons swanky rental
down the hill: a 10-bedroom
sanctum of panelled walls, with
a games room, pool and spa. But
we get more sun up here, he grins.
Avery insists that Verbier is not
just about skiing. You can go
snowshoeing or husky sledging,
and theres amazing walking and
mountain biking in summer.
Verbier has a unique quality: its
the air, the light, the mountains. It
makes you feel good just being here.
Yet until recently Verbier has
been lacking in decent hotels.
Corde des Alpes was opened in
late 2012 by Marcus Bratter, a
Verbier resident and owner of the
Neva hotel. Its a glorious place,
where staff, displaying New York
levels of helpfulness, are outtted
in cheery, snowake jumpers. My
room has oak oors, a sage-blue
Welsh blanket tucked over the
bed and a vast replace. On the
ground oor theres an inky dark
pool and a jewel-box spa. The crowd
has changed since the nancial crisis,
says Bratter in his soft Australian
brogue. Now were seeing visitors
from Sweden, Finland, Denmark,
Russia, Brazil and Chile. The
mega-chalet scene has boomed,
the restaurant scene is upping its
game. I feel like Im at the port

in St Tropez sometimes, every

Short break

week theres a bigger chalet.


Nevertheless, he says, The king of
the mountain is still the best skier.
The W hotels entry into the fray
will broaden Verbiers reach into
the USA. And there are plans to
revamp the site beside the Mdran
lift into a parade of shops and a
concert hall, making it the resorts
only ski-in-ski-out hotel. It has an
800-square-metre spa and 123
rooms, including the Wow Suite,
with a spectacular view over the
mountains, the pink sky dripping
onto the snowy peaks.
But you cant go to Verbier and
not do the nightlife. Last time I
was here, I went to the Farm Club
(www.hotelnevai.com), the 40year-old nightclub next to the
Hotel Neva. It was a singular
experience in many ways, not least
for my bar bill and the heartgladdening sight of grey-haired
captains of industry working it on
the dance oor. Verbier tends to
attract a more sophisticated, mature
set, says Avery. The gap-year
crowd keep to Mribel, Courchevel.
A more youthful scene is found
at the refurbished Farinet (www.
hotelfarinet.com). Inside, past the
clipboard-wielding door girl,
blonde cocktail waitresses wear
leather corsets that seem designed
to distract from the bar prices,
and a female DJ spins to a handwaving crowd. The scene is all
encompassing, uniting twentysomethings and silver foxes, and
apart from the waitresses
34 Cond Nast Traveller January 2014

everyones in woollies and boots,


intent on carousing loudly until its
time to push on home to their chalets
or on to Farinets Casbah nightclub.
The next morning I meet Rob
Stanford, a ski guide and instructor
from Warren Smiths Ski Academy
(www.warrensmith-skiacademy.com).
If you want to learn to ski from
scratch or to bridge the gap between
intermediate and advanced, this
school is the answer. A no-nonsense

From left: La
Marlenaz
restaurant in
Verbier; Hotel
Nevas bar

Mancunian, Stanford is a tutor of


uncanny brilliance, making me rethink
everything I thought I knew about
skiing in a break-it-down-build-itup method that reaps rewards. He
tells me that change is afoot on the
mountains, such as plans to replace
the rickety Savoleyres bubble.
Its certainly going to make
things busier, says Jack Shaw, an
American for whom Bruson, a
locals-only, forested ski spot across
the valley, is home and the site of
his company Epic Europe (www.
epiceurope.com). His passion is
offering visitors an alternative,
bespoke experience of Verbier. His
description of harvest time feels as
if its from another time: We ride
down the valley on mountain bikes,
through apricot orchards, stopping
to forage for mushrooms or to pass
around some moonshine with a
group of cheese-making cowboys.
As he says, Verbier is more than
the sum of its parts. Or perhaps,
more than the sum of its parties.
The writer travelled as a guest
of Switzerland Tourism (www.My
Switzerland.com) and SWISS (+44
845 601 0956; www.swiss.com) which
has daily ights from Heathrow
and London City to Geneva

My Verbier

Rory Hoddell,
ski instructor,
man-about-town
and co-founder
of Alpine-holiday
company
Camel Snow

Almost everyone who comes to Verbier stays in a chalet. The


village is full of really amazing ones. Among my favourites are
family-friendly Chalet Nyumba and Pierre Avoi, and one-bedroom
Le Mazot. For just a long weekend, I often recommend Hotel Le
Vanessa (www.hotelvanessa.ch); its in a great location in the
centre of town and is surprisingly affordable compared to the
bigger hotels. This year Im looking forward to Xtreme Verbier
(www.freerideworldtour.com) at the end of March, when the very
best skiers and snowboarders in the world come to tackle the
quite terrifying Bec de Rosses descent. Its followed by the Verbier
High Five by Carlsberg (www.verbierhighvebycarlsberg.com)
speed and slalom races at the beginning of April. Ill also be trying
out the new Bruson lift which links from Mdran via Le Chable.
On white-out days when the snow is coming thick and fast up in
Verbier, you often get much better visibility among the tree lines
of Bruson. Or if youd like an excuse for a day out of ski boots,
head for Les Bains de Lavey (www.lavey-les-bains.ch); its a
45-minute drive down the mountain and for about 20 you get
a three-hour pass to the outdoor pools, Jacuzzis, hammams and
saunas. For the most sensational view, I take people to the top
of Mont Fort to grab a hot chocolate at the Igloo Mont-Fort bar
and look out over the great summits of the Alps: the Matterhorn,
Mont Blanc, Dent Blanche and Grand Combin. And my most
valuable piece of advice? Avoid the nightclubs. This is a skiers
mountain, so get your sleep. www.camelsnow.com

2013 movado group, inc.

MORE THAN A WATCH. TIME-HONOURED DESIGN.

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Streetwise

EAST MARKET STREET,

This bourbon-sipping strip in the good-time NuLu neighbourhood is the Souths new hipster

WORDS ZACH EVERSON. ILLUSTRATION JONNY HANNAH

ANTIQUES

Joe Ley Antiques, 615


The eponymous owner has saturated his
restored 1890 schoolhouse with more than two
acres of collectables, including vintage Kentucky
Derby memorabilia, quilts and taxidermy.
It is one of East Markets oldest shops (though
often regarded as a museum), and its eclectic,
somewhat creepy interior has been the setting for
movies and music videos. Johnny Cash was a
customer. +1 502 583 4014; www.joeley.com

CONFECTIONERY

Muths Candies, 630


At this 92-year-old shop, third-generation
confectioner Martha Vories hand-dips
delicious chocolates, including bourbon balls
made with 100-proof Very Old Barton.
+1 502 585 2952; www.muthscandy.com

36 Cond Nast Traveller January 2014

CONTEMPORARY ART

Garner Narrative, 642

Owner Joyce Garner and her daughter, gallery


director Angie Reed Garner, have created a
contemporary gallery that celebrates art with
generative messiness and personal-political
content so check your expectations of genteel
Kentucky at the door. Since 2011 it has shown
artists from throughout Americas South, mostly
focusing on large-scale paintings but with
mixed-media and photography exhibitions too.
+1 502 641 8086; www.garnernarrative.com

BAR & PIZZERIA

Garage Bar, 700


Wood-red brick-oven pizzas, seasonal
cocktails, craft beers, more than 30
bourbons and ryes, and a large outdoor
area with table tennis make this one-time
auto-repair shop one of the citys coolest
nightspots. Not in the mood for pizza?
Try a tasting platter from the ham bar
(all from farms in Kentucky, Virginia and
Tennessee), or go for brunch. +1 502
749 7100; www.garageonmarket.com

LOUISVILLE, KENTUCKY
enclave, with arty, foodie hangouts sprouting up all over the place
GIFTS

WHY Louisville, 806


With locally themed T-shirts (Louisville: The
168th Biggest City on Earth), table-top Derby
games and posters of local hero Muhammad Ali,
this kitsch gift shop is the best spot to nd a
unique keepsake, even if its just a photo of yourself
with a wax statue of KFC founder Colonel Sanders.
+1 502 290 7778; www.whylouisville.com

RESTAURANT

Mayan Caf, 813


From the outside it looks inauspicious
compared to newer openings, but
chef Bruce Ucns reproductions of
ancient Mayan recipes using local
ingredients made this restaurant a
go-to spot when the neighbourhood
wasnt. Tok-sel lima (roasted lima
beans cooked in sesame oil with green
onions, lime juice and pumpkin seeds)
is among the most craved dishes in a
city that loves to eat out. +1 502 566
0651; www.themayancafe.com

RESTAURANT
SPECIALITY BEERS

COFFEE & RECORDS

Louisville Beer
Store, 746

Please &
Thank You, 800

Beer comes a close second to bourbon in


Louisvilles alcohol hierarchy (buy a barrel-aged
beer and you can taste both). Opened by
Lori Beck and Tyler Trotter in 2009, this is the
citys only store dedicated to speciality craft
beer, with eight rotating drafts and more than
400 varieties in bottles. Come for a tasting, or
to pick up refreshments for your hotel room.
+1 502 569 2337; www.louisvillebeerstore.com

Part coffee shop, with some of the most


delicious baking in town (try the unbelievably
juicy pumpkin bread), part smartly curated
record shop (all vinyl), this place became the
hip hub of the hood almost as soon as it opened
in 2011. A stop here is a daily ritual for many
artisans and creative types; if the main room
is packed, theres extra seating out the back.
www.pleaseandthankyoulouisville.com

Decca, 812

Although chef Annie Pettry hails from


San Francisco, the focus of this New
American restaurant is emphatically
local: carefully sourced ingredients from
small producers go into dishes such as
hay-braised pork cheeks with couscous,
almond and plums. The bourbon-based
Waysider cocktail is a modern take on
the Mint Julep, best enjoyed, when the
weather is good, on the 19th-century
buildings great terrace. +1 502 749
8128; www.deccarestaurant.com

OUT OF MY
COMFORT ZONE

THE VICTIM

Deborah Feldman, whose fear


of conned spaces means her
car feels overcrowded even
when shes the only one in it

THE CHALLENGE

A barge holiday with three


generations of family onboard
Nitz! she az nitz! yells my French
sister-in-law, plunging her ngers
frantically through my daughters
thick curly hair. This would have
been signicantly less stressful if
it werent for the following factors.
Its nine oclock at night. Were
chugging along the Thames aboard
a oating rabbit warren. There
isnt a 24-hour chemist in sight.
My husband has managed to
convince me that, despite my nearpathological loathing of boats and
acute claustrophobia, this family trip
is a good idea. There are 10 of us
in total. Four feral children (two are
mine) and six grown-ups, including
my husbands parents and LAdwelling brother and his wife who,
it turns out, would rather burn the
entire contents of her house than
40 Cond Nast Traveller January 2014

use vicious chemical repellent


(head-lice treatment to you and me)
on her childs scalp. My daughter
accepts she needs to keep a good
distance. But this is easier said than
done on a barge. Theres so little
space that the kitchen table doubles
up as a bed. Thankfully, one of the
cabins houses a dwarf-sized bunk
bed where the top mattress swiftly
becomes the nit zone, complete with
my daughters newly labelled life
jacket, pillowcase and captains hat.

MY MOTHER-IN-LAW HAD
PRE-COOKED MORE LENTILS
THAN GWYNETH PALTROW
COULD EAT IN A LIFETIME

While it had felt sensible to pack


enough food to sustain us in the
event of a famine my mother-inlaw had pre-cooked more organic
lentils than Gwyneth Paltrow
could eat in a lifetime we are now
discovering that there is nowhere
to store anything. The two teeny-tiny
fridges only work intermittently. That
leaves us with a couple of ancient
plastic Tupperware boxes, most likely
left on board in case of a leaking
roof. And the kitchen sink.
We also have at least ve bags
crammed with every type of medicine:
just in case of an emergency, my
father-in-law reassures me. Then
there are the two sack-loads of uffy
white towels. These are never used
after I discover that taking a shower
involves straddling a loo with a

TOURIST
INFORMATION
FOR THE

Magic Faraway Tree

broken seat in exchange for a limp


trickle of ice-cold water.
Weve almost nished unpacking
when Jez, the health-and-safety
ofcer, comes on board. He assures
us that nothing can go wrong on
such a short trip and, after a veminute practice drive, is gone. We
have absolutely no idea what we
are doing. We do know how to

is much more fun than trying to keep


a straight course. Still, we successfully
drive through several locks without
a single man overboard. We stop for
lunch before mini raindrops turn
into a torrential downpour. We even
laugh at the lack of sleep weve had.
Until the noise begins.
At rst its a gentle hiss. But
soon it becomes a fully hysterical

IT IS BLISSFULLY QUIET, ASIDE FROM A


PASSING, STROBE-LIT DISCO BOAT PUMPING
OUT LUTHER VANDROSSS NEVER TOO MUCH
pull a child out of the water if one
should plop in. But thats the extent
of it. After a brief, snail-like stint at
cruising, we unanimously decide to
moor for supper. The grass is soft
and dry. The sky is blue with a tinge
of perfect marshmallow pink. It is
blissfully quiet aside from a passing
strobe-lit disco boat pumping out
Luther Vandrosss Never Too Much.
We eat. I breathe deeply. Sink a
bottle of wine. And temporarily
forget my plans to le for a divorce.
We sleep soundly until 5.30am
when the bin liners weve secured
to the windows with tape fail to blot
out the rst rays of sunlight. The
children are convinced it is midday
no matter how often I tell them there
is no time difference. We are still in
England. After breakfast they keep
themselves amused by taking turns
to drive the boat and discover that
lurching from one side of the Thames
to the other, narrowly swerving
around ducks and the odd swimmer,

whistle accompanied by billows


of greyish-green smoke coming
from beneath the oorboards in
the kitchen/master-suite which my
eight-year-old son points out is
where the engine lives. Despite
desperate attempts by three alpha
males and three psychotic females
to x the problem, we have to
concede defeat when we can no
longer see each other through the
smoke and smell of burning rubber.
The nice boat-rescue man
arrives two hours later. None of us
are in the mood for an explanation
but he insists on giving us one
anyway. Apparently the engine has
overheated. Apparently we should
have been checking the water levels
every morning. Apparently this is
only the second time this has ever
happened on his watch. And the
really great news? Hell make sure
the boat is safe to get us back to base,
but he absolutely doesnt recommend
we take it further than that.

WHERE IS IT? In the Enchanted Wood,


deep in the English countryside, where the
trees go wisha, wisha, wisha. The Faraway Tree
the oldest and most magical in the world is
an unusual species: it has oak leaves but grows
conkers as well as acorns, even pears and cherries.
At the very top is a ladder leading through a hole
in the cloud to a variety of lands, which hover
there on a regular basis. Many destinations,
such as the lands of Topsy Turvy, Spells,
Do-as-you-please and Birthdays, are so obscure
that even Benedict Allen hasnt visited yet

WHERE TO STAY The Enchanted


Wood and nearby countryside offer a refreshing
antidote to modern city life a little like the Isle
of Wight, but about 10 years behind. There are
several treehouses, but the one owned by
Moon-Face is the best. His kids club is highly
rated: parents can relax, knowing their offspring
are being well looked after by an oval-faced
creature with a bag of magic powder in its pocket.
Dame Washalot runs a daily laundry service
WHAT TO PACK 1 A cushion for
whizzing down Moon-Faces Slippery Slip
slide. 2 Waterproofs: getting soaked is a
common hazard. 3 A head for heights
BRING BACK A kettle or frying pan from
The Saucepan Man (hes quite deaf, so you may
take home nettles or an electric fan instead)
TRAVEL ADVICE The tree is best
visited at night. Dont stay too long in any of
the visiting lands: you may get stuck. The food
here is very caloric; the ve a day comprises
treacle pudding, ice cream, muffins, ginger buns
and marshmallows, but strenuous tree-climbing
should work most of this off. RICK JORDAN

Where to stay
Reviews of the month in Arkansas Johannesburg

The Cotswolds Greece

EDITED BY PETER BROWNE

PLAY TO THE GALLERY


A fantastical new hotel is adding to the creative mix in a small southern town thats becoming a
most unlikely international art-world hit. Christina Robert has a brush with the surreal in Arkansas

magine if willy wonka had


swapped his sweet tooth for the
curatorial eye of Larry Gagosian
and youll start to get a picture of
the 21c hotel in downtown Bentonville. The
rst hint that youre about to rediscover
your sense of wonder is a basketball net at
the entrance. Yes, its painted in traditional
orange but instead of one hoop, it has
19. Walk inside, and youre greeted by a
esh-coloured troll. Nearby, you might nd
a giant green penguin. Its founders like to
call this, living on the corner of curiosity.
This magical, audacious new place
was built so visitors to the world-class
Crystal Bridges Museum of American
Art would have somewhere to stay. The
museum directors were hoping for 250,000
42 Cond Nast Traveller January 2014

visitors in the rst year, but they got


almost one million.
Crystal Bridges is the magnum opus
of philanthropist and arts patron Alice
Walton (her daddy was Sam Walton,
founder of the Wal-Mart empire). After a
30-year career as an investment analyst,
she is now an environmental campaigner,
raises championship cutting horses and
is an avid angler. I hadnt ever built a
museum before, she admits. But I think
it helps sometimes when you dont know
what youre doing. It means you need to
ask for help. And when you do, you end
up getting more than you could ever have
imagined on your own.
The hotel was the brainchild of Laura
Lee Brown, a bourbon heiress from

Kentucky, and her husband Steve


Wilson. They came up with the idea of
a museum hotel a few years ago as a
way of putting their art collection to
work regenerating downtown Louisville,
Kentucky. The good folk of Bentonville
liked the concept and asked them to do
something similar for their town. The
couples aim is pretty straightforward. We
like people to think about things, they say.
And think you will, when confronted by
a wheelchair made for four, or a single
living tree made from 40 others.
The 104 bedrooms above the many
art-lled spaces on the ground oor are
practically Scandinavian in their cleanlined simplicity, with all-white linens and
white lamps and a few bits of furniture

PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY OF CRYSTAL BRIDGES MUSEUM OF AMERICAN ART; TIMOTHY HURSLEY;


MCCLATCHY-TRIBUNE/GETTY IMAGES; RETT PEAK COURTESY OF 21C MUSEUM HOTEL; JAMES PRINZ/
COURTESY OF JACK SHAINMAN GALLERY; EDWARD C ROBISON III

Lichtensteins Still Life


with Mirror and, left,
Soundsuit by Nick Cave
from the Crystal
Bridges collection.
Opposite, clockwise from
far left: the museum and
a tree sculpture by Roxy
Paine; arts patron Alice
Walton; a bedroom at
21c Bentonville hotel;
Standing Explosion
(Red) by Lichtenstein
at the museum

upholstered in neutral tones. But there


are charming touches, too: I loved the
copy of Modern Farmer on the coffee
table and the retro-looking, hands-free
attachment for my mobile phone. My
only complaint was an over-plump pillow,
but the microbre-lined bathrobe more
than made up for it. And anyway, its hard
to complain when theres a rubber duck
waiting for you in the shower.
Before going to the museum, I ate
breakfast sitting under a mounted moose
head made from womens shoes. I fell
in love with the disarmingly open staff,
who seem to embody the underlying
playfulness of the place. They didnt
exactly ask me to jump up on the bar
and line dance, but I got the feeling they
could have. That night I also fell for chef
Matthew McClures grits and black-eyed
peas (he describes his cooking as rened
country) in The Hive restaurant, for
which all the wholesome ingredients are
grown locally. In fact, everything about this
place is good for you. Theyll even lend
you a bike to get out into the trail-lled

hills of what Arkansas licence plates


declare is the Natural State.
But the museum is much handier.
Designed by Moshe Safdie, whose other
works include the Yad Vashem Holocaust
History Museum in Jerusalem and the new
National Art Museum of China, it has
undulating roofs and glass walls and is
cradled at the base of a ravine in the

procession of soaring spaces. Sixty


per cent of visitors are from Arkansas.
When I was there, sun-baked farmers
in overalls stood looking at pictures
alongside lily-white ladies from
Philadelphia and serious-faced art
dealers from Israel.
An infectious optimism can be felt
in a small town punching above its

I ate breakfast sitting under a mounted


moose head made from womens shoes
heart of the Ozark forest. The nearby
natural springs are integral to the design.
Looking at art while surrounded by nature
is positively invigorating. I normally
ag after an hour in a windowless
gallery; Crystal Bridges kept me going
for two days straight.
Georgia OKeeffe is there. Wyeth is
there; so are Warhol, Rothenberg,
Lichtenstein and Turrell, Audubon and
Arthur Fitzwilliam Tait. The collection
spans ve centuries. The USAs history
comes alive as you walk through a

weight. It infuses Bilbao and Basel,


and now it is happening in Bentonville,
Arkansas of all places. Before I left,
I watched the museum president,
Don Bacigalupi, unveil a bright-red
Keith Haring sculpture out on one of
the concrete terraces. He described the
piece as pure delight. I would say
the same of my trip. Go to Bentonville
and have fun.
21c Bentonville (+1 479 286 6500;
www.21cmuseumhotels.com). Doubles
from about 125

Where to stay

Bed-hopping with Matthew Rhys


The brooding actor known for playing Dylan Thomas and now Mr Darcy picks his hot hotels for Francesca Babb

 BABINGTON HOUSE, SOMERSET

I like the little things they do here. Say you


order breakfast and your room is far from the
kitchen, theyll bring a toaster so your toast is
piping hot. When we checked out, they gave us
a bag with milk, corn akes, and bread and butter
so we didnt have to stop on the way home. www.
babingtonhouse.co.uk. Doubles from about 340

 THE GORING, LONDON

The good old Goring. Maybe


its because Im a bit of a
sentimentalist, but I still love
that its family run. Its not
outdated and its design
is fantastic, but I adore the
old-school element to it.
www.thegoring.com. Doubles
from about 400

At The Goring I
want to wear a jacket
and tie and order
a gin and tonic.
I feel like Gatsby
when I stay there

 MALABAR HOUSE,
 THE JAMES, CHICAGO

The James is quite sexy in


its presentation, and you get
swept up in that. Its all about
the Martini here. The hotel
is very modern but incredibly
well done. Its one of those
places where I could spend all
my time in the room. In fact, if
Im perfectly honest, I didnt
see much of Chicago. www.
jameshotels.com/chicago.
Doubles from about 180

KERALA
More than anything, it
was the setting I loved here,
but it might have been
situational as well. Wed
been backpacking around
India for a month, which
was interesting. Then came
Malabar House, which is
very high end, and that rst
power shower heaven.
www.malabarhouse.com.
Doubles from about 180

 POST RANCH INN, CALIFORNIA

This place is not kind to your bank


balance, but utterly worth it. I stay in a
little cabin with a balcony and ridiculous
views of the ocean, and feel like Im a
million miles from anything and anyone.
They have masseuses who will send you
to sleep and the restaurant is one of the
best Ive ever come across. www.post
ranchinn.com. Doubles from about 620

Matthew Rhys stars in Death Comes to Pemberley on BBC One this Christmas
44 Cond Nast Traveller January 2014

PHOTOGRAPHS: JAMES BEDFORD; RICH HARDCASTLE /EYEVINE; CHRIS TUBBS

NO THANKS!
we
s a layover and
Hong Kong. It wa
around
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lki
wa
s
wa
I
got delayed, and
ade
h like I was in Bl
feeling very muc
calm
of
sis
oa
an
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Experiences words cant describe. Memories a camera cant quite capture.


Adventures arent found in magazines.
We cant describe your dream trip on this page.
But with over 50 years experience, our own people and expedition
vehicles all over the world, we can help you discover it.
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abercrombiekent.co.uk

ROOM
SERVICE

Johannesburg

Splurge
THE SAXON HOTEL, VILLAS & SPA

54 ON BATH

www.thesaxon.com

www.tsogosunhotels.com

In the ritzy northern suburb of


Sandhurst, surrounded by sprawling
gated compounds with high walls and
security guards; the domain of business
magnates and international consulates

In the walkable, tree-lined Rosebank


suburb, a mix of private homes, offices
and shops. The enormous Rosebank
Mall is right next door, connected to the
hotel by a pedestrian tunnel

Look

Sophisticated African chic set against


an earthy palette, carefully picked out
and repeated in everything from the
cushions to the tribal-inspired
gurines guarding the bathrooms

An imposing 10-storey brick faade


and fresh interiors in black, white, grey
and mint, with works from locals artists
William Kentridge and Tinus de Jongh
and photographer Ryan Hitchcock

One to
watch

46 Cond Nast Traveller January 2014

Business

Location

Crowd

The citys
rose-coloured
Westcliff Hotel
has closed for
renovations
and will open
sometime in
late 2014 as a
Four Seasons
property, the
Canadian
groups rst
foray into
South Africa

Theres a new-found

Nelson Mandela decamped here


to nish his autobiography; world
leaders including the Clintons
continue to ow through its doors

Savvy business travellers and


well-known faces looking to keep
a low prole (Desmond Tutu was
spotted here recently)

All 53 airy rooms and suites are


done up in creams and browns, each
with contemporary sculptures,
latticed wooden windows and
massive baths

75 rooms, including 12 executive


suites and three luxury suites with
private terraces; vibrant photography
adds a punch of colour

Eating &
drinking

At Five Hundred restaurant even the butter


dishes are works of art and the eight
tables are the hardest to book in town.
The six-course Ruinart Experience pairs
Champagne with foie gras and caviar

Level Four serves creative dishes such as


terrine with pickled pears and rooibos
gel; the super-glamorous Veuve Clicquot
Champagne Bar is wonderfully over-the-top

Best thing

The smart technology: the in-room


laptops are a treat and the hotel must
have South Africas fastest internet access

High tea, served in the gardens or the


lobby with its white grand piano,
attracts a stylish crowd

The full-length mirrors in the


rooms are badly positioned and
not very attering

The Rosebank Mall is being extended,


which means for now most rooms will have
views of a mammoth construction site

Doubles from about 310

Doubles from about 180

Rooms

Worst thing
Price

condence in South Africas teeming hub, with an edgy art scene and plush, top-rate haunts. By Sarah Khan

Classic

Good value

THE MUNRO BOUTIQUE HOTEL

12 DECADES ART HOTEL

THE PEECH

www.themunrohotel.com

www.12decadeshotel.co.za

www.thepeech.co.za

Cocooned in the old-money suburb


of Houghton, amidst stately Arts and
Crafts houses dating back to the 1930s
and up the road from two of
Johannesburgs most elite schools

In the hip Maboneng Precinct, a


once-gritty enclave (its still fringed
by dodgy neighbourhoods) now
transformed into a district of
galleries, restaurants and shops

Opposite a park in the leafy neighbourhood


of Melrose in the northern suburbs, not far
from the Melrose Arch complex where
throngs of suited workers and strollerpushing moms eat and shop

The opulent French chteau of your


eccentric, globetrotting aunt: the
dining room, where you can feast on
millionaires pie, has an elaborate
ceiling mural with a portrait of
the owners face secreted in it

Like a modern-art museum, with


a simple check-in desk at the end of
an art-lled corridor and abstract
paintings as you get out of the lift to the
seventh-oor rooms (there are private
apartments on the oors in between)

In the style of a trendy mountain chalet,


with logs stacked up around an art
installation featuring edgy photography
of inner-city Johannesburg and cowhide
rugs laid on polished-concrete oors

A sophisticated, older set after a


cosseting oasis in the city. Apple
co-founder Steve Wozniak has stayed

Creative locals and international


musicians, photographers and
painters: asymmetrically shaved haircuts
and neon sneakers are par for the course

Its popular with a young crowd of


media folk, so dont be surprised if you
stumble into a fashion shoot taking
place in the lobby

There are just ve sumptuous


suites. The Presidential Suite has
a large sun terrace, sauna and
walk-in wardrobe big enough to
make Lady Gaga blush

Each of the 12 Decades Rooms is


designed by a different artist to reect
10 years in the citys history. In the one
titled 19461956 (A part love, A part
hate) apartheid laws line the loo bowl

The 16 eco-friendly rooms have rain


showers, African masks, scarlet accents
and bold, black, patterned wallpaper. The
two suites have indoor swings

PHOTOGRAPHS: ALAMY

On-demand dining is the order of


the day. In the mood for poached
eggs at 11pm in the conservatory?
The chef will serve you what you
want, where and when you want it

Theres no restaurant, but every


room has a kitchenette and the
local area is home to innovative
restaurants; try the Afro-Asian
fusion sushi at The Blackanese

Contemporary

The Bistro and small Champagne bar serve


some of the best food and cocktails in town
(lamb cutlets with minted pea risotto;
the apple-sour-avoured Faithfull Russian)

The view from the innity pool over


the citys surprisingly lush landscape is
perhaps the nest in Johannesburg

The attention to detail:


everything from the lamps to the
coat hooks conforms to the

The hammock overlooking the Japanesestyle gardens. But you might have to
share it with resident cat Peeches

There are no lotions, hair dryers, irons


or phones in the bedrooms. If you need
anything, you have to go downstairs to ask

Theres no one on the front desk


after 10pm, which might make
some guests feel uneasy

Teetering up the narrow metal


staircases to the higher-level rooms
can be a mission, especially in heels

Doubles from about 230

Doubles from about 55

Doubles from about 140

Where to stay

UK

&

IRELAND

ESCAPES

THE WEEKENDER

COUNTRY FILE

WHAT IS IT? A 17th-century Cotswold

farmhouse, part of a large family estate,


recently given a much needed, rather
glamorous and hugely expensive new
look. Now inglenook replaces, Jacobean
wooden panelling and agstone oors
meet zingy, candlelit sitting rooms with
a touch of Copenhagen cool and fresh
bedrooms styled by London interiordesign company Todhunter Earle.
BEHIND THE SCENES The hotel has been in
the hands of the Danish Philip-Srensen
family since 1977; its latest transformation
is an indication of their continued
passion for the place. Its not big enough
to be grand like Babington House or
Lucknam Park, nor quirky enough to be
considered a nd, but it does walk the
boutique middle ground perfectly.
SLEEP There are 40 smart, colourful
bedrooms, including The Attic
and The Loft (best views) and
the separate Rose Cottage with
its pretty, owery decor and
private courtyard. Each room is
different (gently patterned wallpapers,
Regency mahogany wardrobes, softglow lamps), and all have big, showy
bathrooms. Nice little touches include
cottagey fresh owers, a Kilner jar lled
with chocolate-punch biscuits, and an
iPad from which to order room service,
food hampers or a clutch of DVDs.
EAT Chef Paul Napper uses locally farmed
and foraged ingredients in the two
restaurants. The Potting Shed is more
relaxed and cosy if you have children

in tow, or just dont fancy amuse-bouche


served in tiny teacups. There are sharing
platters of sticky ribs, soft-boiled quail
Scotch eggs and Welsh rarebit (perhaps
the ultimate comfort food). In the much
smarter Garden Room, with its oor-toceiling windows and white-gloved waiters,
the menu zones in on key ingredients
such as quail, cod, venison or halibut.
The results are surprisingly light; even
the apple-crumble souf with toffee
sauce and vanilla ice cream tastes healthy.
WHO GOES THERE? The local scene is
buzzing. Residents are curious about the
hotels latest manifestation (Oh, its
gone terribly upmarket, said one). And
of course the whole area is a magnet
for American and Japanese tourists, as
well as weekending city couples.

There are platters of


sticky ribs, quail Scotch
eggs and Welsh rarebit
WHATS THERE TO DO? An ambitious spa is

in the making, with treatments by Temple


Spa. Visit Stratford Upon Avon, Oxford
or Cheltenham. Seek out Broadway
Tower, which William Morris and Edward
Burne-Jones rented in the 1880s.
WE LIKE The helpful young staff.
WE DONT LIKE You can hear road noise,
and some rooms overlook the car park.
THE PRICE Midweek doubles from 170
B&B; from 420 B&B for a minimum
two-night weekend stay DAISY FINER

DORMY HOUSE, WILLERSEY HILL, BROADWAY, WORCESTERSHIRE


(+44 1386 852711; WWW.DORMYHOUSE.CO.UK)
48 Cond Nast Traveller January 2014

LETS DANCE
Parties are in Anselm Guises DNA.
The DJ and creator of the Glade
Festival inherited Elmore Court in
Gloucestershire from his uncle in 2007.
His earliest memory of a house party
there involves hiding behind curtains
and watching grown-ups snogging.
And hes found an 1871 press cutting
referring to revellers dancing all night.
So whats his recipe for a great party?
Let people feel free to be themselves,
he says. Elmore Court has just been
launched as an exclusive-use rental
with a sound-proofed ballroom for
party animals with a sense of grandeur.
www.elmorecourt.com. Sleeps 20, from
2,000 per night SALLY SHALAM

PHOTOGRAPHS: RAY MAIN

Dormy House, Worcestershire

Self-catering isnt the washing-up-rota


drudgery it used to be some of the
worlds most glamorous hotels have
been building swish private villas with
kitchens in their grounds. Now lovely
Barnsley House in Gloucestershire
is offering its own rustic version with
Home Farm Cottage, a Cotswoldstone former farm-workers dwelling
in the heart of the village. It has all
you need to cook for yourself, but
sybaritic hotel comforts are just a stroll
up the lane. You dont quite have to
put the hens in their coop at night,
but Ill bet thats coming next. www.
barnsleyhouse.com. Home Farm Cottage
sleeps six, from 1,725 for three nights

WATCHING
OR TASTING?
Take a closer look at South Africa: use our expertise
to look beyond the ordinary for a unique South
Africa experience. Call us for insight and advice.

0845 0756114

southafrica@steppestravel.co.uk
Book before 31st January 2014 and quote SA1 to receive
a one-way Complimentary Upgrade on British Airways.
*World Traveller to World Traveller Plus only. Travel before 31st September
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availability. Minimum booking value 5,000. T&Cs apply.

Where to stay

Hotel
condential
A troop of adventurous arrivals is shaking up the Latin American scene. By Issy von Simson
HONDURAS Set on a scoop of beach right next to the tropical
Punta Lzopo national park on the Caribbean coast, Indzura
Resort is a y-and-op with edge. Theres a spa chock-full of
ESPA, howler monkeys leap about on the grass-roofed
casitas, panthers stalk through the jungle, and in the sea youll
nd one of the largest colonies of healthy Elkhorn coral. www.induraresort.com
COLOMBIA Bogot is zzing right now with

cool art galleries and groovy

hotels such as Click Clack and B.O.G. This

summer, Starwood is muscling

in on the action with W Bogot in Usaqun,

a historic colonial district

with an up-and-coming restaurant scene.

New York style team Studio

Gaia (which whipped up Thompson Toronto and Ws Seoul and Mexico City) is in charge of
the interior design, so we can expect some pretty slick city vibes. www.starwoodhotels.com
COSTA RICA Andaz, Hyatts diffusion brand, has cleverly got in
on the act with a new property on the unspoilt Papagayo peninsula,
thick with rainforest and blessed with empty
stretches of sand. So the new Andaz Papagayo
is not just the funkiest place to stay, but the only place. Alexa Chung has
already booked in; if she forgets her bikini, she can pick one up from the
Zimmerman vending machine in the lobby. www.papagayo.andaz.hyatt.com

Citta dei Nicliani GREECE


Citta dei Nicliani is proof that something beautiful can ourish in the
inhospitable Mani region of the Peloponnese. The Sepsas family have
created a rustic hotel of seven bedrooms from a jumble of ruins set around
a fortied tower house. In a previous life, Ilias Sepsas was a director of BP in
Greece; now hes at the stove, roasting lamb and tossing oranges in olive oil
for a salad. His wife, Tania, found the ornate marble basins and deliciously
soft linens for the rooms; their daughter, Zaira, takes the bookings and their
son Panos is everywhere and anywhere, driving guests to see a tiny Byzantine
church you would never nd yourself, or a sandy cove only he seems to
know about. At night, dining by candlelight, you can watch owls come and
go. In the morning, throw back the shutters, see the pomegranates glisten
in the sunshine and feel the warmth of the terracotta oors under your feet.
Rooms are big and small, some with balconies, but all are enriched with an
extraordinarily strong feeling that you are most welcome here. MARY LUSSIANA
+30 27330 51827; www.cittadeinicliani.com. Doubles from 70

50 Cond Nast Traveller January 2014

PHOTOGRAPHS: ALAMY; 4 CORNERS IMAGES

HOTEL ROOMS UNDER 150

18K gold

SOUTHAMPTON LAKE TEGERNSEE SYLT PALM BEACH


and all my international jewelers at: www.tamaracomolli.com

A letter fro m...

When it comes to having a brand-new dress made, award-winning novelist Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie
has plenty of material. Finding a decent tailor to make it? Thats another story. lllustration by Laura Carlin

here is a mild emergency:


the dress is not ready.
My tailor, Razak, has
just sent me a text saying
Sorry, Aunty, I cannot bring the
dress today. I stare at the text,
upset and unsurprised.
But rst, a little background.
Last week, I went to Balogun
market to buy fabric for the dress.
I walked the rows of little shops,
touched the neatly-folded rectangles
of cloth, laughed at the traders
jokes, and bought yards of ankara
in green print. Razak came by later
to pick up the material.
Will the dress be ready for
Saturday? I asked.
Yes, Aunty, by Gods grace.
Please, Razak, I am wearing it to
an important event.
No problem, Aunty. I will not
disappoint.
It was our usual routine. As
usual, I told him my event was ve
days earlier than it was. And now,
once again, the dress is late.
I have been on a tailor quest for
many years. There was the woman
in Ilupeju, a middle-class suburb on
the mainland, whose shop was close
to the Indian school. She was
ambitious, her shop hummed with
distracted apprentices and assistants,
one of whom must have made my
skirt that turned out a size too big
with lopsided hems. There was the
woman in Yaba, who worked from
her small, dark at not far from the
campus of the University of Lagos.
She made me one pretty dress, and
then subsequent dresses were never
done when she said they would be,
and she never picked up her phone.
The Senegalese man on Victoria
Island gave me some condence:
Senegalese tailors have a good
reputation because they are nonNigerian. He was soft spoken and
52 Cond Nast Traveller January 2014

sewed well but he moved back to


Senegal. Finally, Razak came
through a friends recommendation.
Hes very good but hes unreliable,
the friend had said, and then added,
But which tailor in Lagos isnt?
The rst dress Razak made
was near-perfect. His work was
even, careful, neat. I was used to
tailors who ignored small details
a slightly crooked button, a notquite-ush edging. But Razak paid
attention. And I liked him, he was
uncomplicated and pleasant. This
would be the end of my tailor saga.
I read his text again. Sorry, Aunty,
I cannot bring the dress today.
The language is slightly unusual,
too vague. Usually he would write,
a day or two after the dress was
due to be ready, I will bring it
tomorrow or It will be ready by
Sunday. His reasons are varied:

driving on it feels oddly luxurious.


The view is lovely, too, of the lagoon,
ending with the high rises of Banana
Island, that strange and expensive
swath of land reclaimed from the sea.
When I walk into Razaks shop, I
am pleased to see him at his machine,
bent over my fabric. He looks up.
Razak, you are only just cutting
the dress. You just started.
He nodded. I will nish by this
night. I have to go to Obalande to
buy buttons.
But what have you been doing?
He smiles a small smile, as
though guarding a secret.
Razak? I prod.
I am writing songs.
What?
Songs. I want to be a musician.
The past two days I have been in
the studio to try.
I stare at him. His smile is

The Senegalese man on Victoria Island gave


me some condence: Senegalese tailors have a
good reputation because they are non-Nigerian
no electricity and no fuel for his
generator; a wedding he had to
attend; even a trip to the dentist.
I call him. Razak, what is the
problem?
Sorry Aunty. Something
happened.
What happened?
I will nish it by Sunday.
Razak, but I want to wear it on
Sunday afternoon.
I will bring it in the morning.
Something about his tone makes
me even more curious.
A surprise visit can only spur him
on to make the dress. The next day,
I take the new bridge from Lekki
to Ikoyi. A shiny, swooping bridge. I
have avoided it since it rst opened
because the toll is expensive, but

broader, his face has lit up.


You want to be a musician?
Yes, Aunty. By Gods grace.
This is the last thing I expected to
hear. Lagos is full of people who
want to be the next big musician, who
want to have their hits on radio and
in nightclubs. But Razak? Finally,
I say, Youre a talented tailor.
He shrugs. And then starts to
sing. His voice is off-key, ordinary.
I listen to him, saying nothing,
thinking: who will believe this story?
On Sunday morning he brings the
dress. I try it on; the sleeves slump
and the waist is loose. Razak looks
surprised at the t, as though he does
not remember making the dress.
Americanah, Adichies third novel,
is published by Fourth Estate (20)

Style file

All around the globe, Fiona Lintotts hits for the month of January

I PRESENT TO YOU...
FOUNDER OF LYST.COM
Morton is to online fashion
what Zuckerberg is to social
media; he does the techy bit
and we get a streamlined
edit of all the brands we want

ON HEALTH
To keep t I try to run whenever I can.
If Im in New York I jog alongside the
East River, in LA I go to Runyon
Canyon and in San Francisco, the
Presidio. The last spa I went to was
Aire in Tribeca. It has a phenomenal
collection of Roman baths, all lit
up beautifully. Its the most relaxing
afternoon you can have in NYC.
www.ancientbathsny.com

ON DESIGN

Chris Morton

I loved the Tent show in Shoreditch,


around the corner from our London
office. Its where I picked up fresh
ceramics by Vanja Bazdulj, an
up-and-coming Slovenian designer,
and refurbished industrial clocks from
the Eastern Bloc. I like the old-world
architecture of Pelourinho in Salvador,
Brazil: its like a brighter cousin of
the Bairro Alto in Lisbon. www.tent
london.co.uk, www.vanjabazdulj.com

ON TECHNOLOGY

ON TRAVEL

Phones are rapidly becoming remote controls for our lives. The
apps I use the most are ones that make my life easier and more
seamless, for example booking taxis on Hailo and Uber,
reading articles on Pocket or ordering a healthy takeaway on
Hasty. I get my news from Twitter. I see it as a personalised
newspaper where I can stay up-to-date on everything I care
about. For fashion, my go-to Twitter accounts are Business
of Fashion (@BoF), for music, its Songkick (@songkick)
and for start-ups, Ben Horowitz (@bhorowitz). Im always
playing music from sites such as Mixcloud, Soundcloud
and Spotify. Right now Im listening to a Brooklyn-based
electropop act called St Lucia. And on my iPad I often use
Zinio, where all my magazine subscriptions are in one place.

I cant stand large, characterless


hotels: they need to have a story.
Service is also important. Torre di
Moravola (www.moravola.com),
above and right, in Umbria is run by
a charming couple from Scotland
and Hong Kong. Its a breathtaking
modernist space in a 12th-century
watchtower. I travel a lot and love how
every day is different. Last summer
started with a week sailing around the
Sporades, then Ibiza and ended with
Burning Man in the Nevada desert.

Retro charm: check out


the picnic blankets and
baskets to go with it

ILLUSTRATION: HANNAH GEORGE. PHOTOGRAPH: MARK SHAW

ON TREND

Around town: a light,


easy-to-manoeuvre ride
with a hip Tokyo design

The chain gang


Getting around on two
wheels has never been so
cool as top fashion labels
hit the road along with
independent bike makers
54 Cond Nast Traveller January 2014

Billy bike, 675, BEG Bicycles


(www.begbicycles.com)

Bisou, 490, Tokyobike at


www.there-cyclingshop.co.uk

Im back from... Paris


Where Marc Jacobs nale show for Louis
Vuitton showcased big ideas in minute detail. And
after a visit to the tiny bistro Frenchie on rue de
Nil, with its short menu and miniature tables, its
clear that micro means big business. A
compact cube of a store, Oh My Cream
in Saint-Germain resets the citys beauty
scene; try the exceptional facial from
Aurelia Probiotic Skincare. The stylish
mini book Dior Glamour:
1952-1962 is also just out, and even
high-heel king Christian Louboutin has
designs on less is more. His Costa Nada
sandals are on my wish list for spring.

Old flames burn bright


If you didnt already know that scented
candles are regifted at least ve
times, you do now. That is unless
you are given one of these coveted
ames, each inspired by a
place or memory, which
will make you want to
declutter any current candle
accumulation and start again.

Buzz words Colour me happy


Inspired by...
Chanels pop-up nail bar and perfume boutique in Heathrows Terminal 5, Im heading
off to St Barths wearing Rouge Rubis from the complimentary manicure service.

Also refer to...


The Little Greene paint company: forget Farrow
& Ball, its time to move on.
St Tropez 24-hour wear, water and transfer resistant instant tan:
pale and interesting doesnt cut it this month.
Markus Lupfer embellished jumpers: put away the grey cable knit.
Posada Margherita in Tulum: a beach club overowing with character,
not to mention a great shop.

Sole di Capri, 99, Fornasetti at


www.selfridges.com; 1970, 38, Bella
Freud at www.spacenk.com; Cellarius, 58,
Aedes de Venustas at www.harrods.com

Private parking
obligatory: the comest
saddle youll ever nd

Le Flneur sportif dHerms, 6,800,


Herms (www.hermes.com)

The road runner made in


Detroit: an all-weather,
fast, silent city bike

Runwell bike, 1,832, Shinola


(www.shinola.com)

Boy racer: good looks


and go-faster stripes
for the weekend rider

Hackett Cooper T, 1,995, Hackett


& Cooper (www.cooperbikes.com)
January 2014 Cond Nast Traveller 55

Style file... jewellery

SHEER BRILLIANCE Three of the most astonishing exhibitions are

taking place around the world this month. If you only visit one sparkly
showcase in your lifetime, its wow or never says Jessica Diamond

PARIS

Cartier: Style and History


Grand Palais

Jewels from the Cartier


exhibition, including a
panther brooch, top right,
commissioned for the
Duchess of Windsor

This promises to be a serious romp through Cartiers


greatest hits. And its no vanity project, having been
initiated and organised by the Grand Palais itself,
rmly cementing the ne jewellers position as a
cultural and stylistic giant. While the mind boggles at
the organisation (and security) involved in amassing
more than 600 items, including jewellery, clocks
and objets, it is an immersive experience, with pieces
arranged chronologically and contextually in relation
to art, furniture, fashion and photography. Cartier has
assisted in tracking down jewellery from private
collections and also raided its own extensive
archives. Expect highlights from various royal
families along with a sprinkling of jewels
owned by the likes of Elizabeth Taylor,
right, and Gloria Swanson, left.
www.grandpalais.fr. Runs from 4
December 2013 to 16 February 2014

NEW YORK

The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Jeweller Joel A Rosenthal, known as JAR, has never released


an advertising campaign, never courted editorial coverage and
never lent pieces to celebrities. All while operating from one
small unmarked shop on the Place Vendme which makes the
staging of this show at the Met all the more extraordinary.
For the uninitiated, JAR is still relatively unknown, yet his
aesthetic of electric-bright stones, a painterly way with
micro-pav and a fantastical representation
of the natural world pervades all areas of
contemporary jewellery design. More than
400 pieces are showcased, on
loan from his devoted clientele.
www.metmuseum.org. Runs
until 9 March 2014

56 Cond Nast Traveller January 2014

LONDON

Masters of Modern Jewellery 2013

Beetles + Huxley gallery

London has seen a glut of jewellery exhibitions in recent months, with


the lustrously compelling Pearls at the V&A and the Cheapside Hoard
at the Museum of London, staggering in its Elizabethan and Jacobean
completeness. Masters of Modern Jewellery 2013 at this Piccadilly gallery on
the other hand is small and tightly curated by Joanna Hardy, a
former Sothebys jewellery director, and the perfect point
of difference. Pieces by Shaun Leane and Sevan Biaki
sit alongside designs by emerging talents such as Sophia
Mann, above, and Lauren Adriana, left and right. Plus,
you can buy everything on display, which
makes us happy. www.beetlesandhuxley.
com. Runs until 23 December 2013

PHOTOGRAPHS: BETTMANN/CORBIS; ALAN COPSON;


GETTY IMAGES; PAUL HARTLEY; N WELSH, COLLECTION
CARTIER; RICHARD VALENCIA

Jewels by JAR

Style file... men


EDITED BY
DAVID ANNAND

CHELSEA BOOTS
REFINED GENT

With all the


doughty tweeds
and buttoned-up suits, its
easy to forget that old-

school British fashion is


shot through with a kind
of frock-coat and fur-collar
foppishness, a little streak
of the dandy. When it
comes to footwear, this
propensity to the peacock
gets its true expression in
these pointy-toed Paul
Smith Falconer boots.
www.mrporter.com, 185

DO IT IN STYLE

Of course, style
now being all
deconstructed and
self-reective, the Chelsea
boot has been turned on
its head, culminating in
these wing-tip Alistair
brogues from Grenson. If
the coordinates on your
Google map are Neuklln,
Nakameguro and Beijings

Founder of fashion collective Huntergather.com


David Bradshaw traces Mr Presleys footsteps

y wife is obsessed with Elvis and I love the American South, so it didnt
take much to convince me to accompany her on a trip through
Tennessee and Mississippi, exploring the towns and music to put the
great man in context. We started in Nashville at the Country Music Hall
of Fame and Museum: six oors of stars, their cars, guitars, gold discs and costumes.
Then we headed to RCA, the studios where Elvis recorded many hits. Its an intimate
place with an X on the oor where you can have your picture taken striking a pose
just as he did. From Nashville we headed to the strip town of Tupelo, Elviss
birthplace. We visited the shack where he was born, a place that gives you
a powerful sense of where he started, but one that has been overshadowed
by the nearby event centre, chapel for Elvis marriages and gift shop.
Needing culture of a different sort, we swung by Oxford, Mississippi,
home of William Faulkner and his colonial pile Rowan Oaks. Next we
drove to Sun Studio in Memphis, the recording house where Elvis walked
in off the street and told the receptionist, I dont sound like nobody. Our search
culminated with the Graceland experience. On one side of the road are moneyspinners for Elvis Presley Enterprises: car and jumpsuit museums, an
all-Elvis radio station. At the house itself you make your way with headsets
through the rooms, including the Jungle Room with its shaggy carpets, and
end up outside at his grave. Suddenly, the atmosphere changes and you
nally meet the King. THE DOWNLOADS Tupelo by Nick Cave, He was
the King by Neil Young. THE BOOK As I Lay Dying by William Faulkner

WILD BOY

Also revolutionary,
although pitched
at a different age group,
are these pony-hair boots

SOUL MAN

798 Art Zone, these will


see you right however
hip the hangout. www.
grenson.co.uk, 235

by Burberry Prorsum.
If youve no clue where
Neuklln is and hark back
to the Kings Road as the
paragon of cool, then these
are perfect for post-punks
old enough to know better.
Wear with skinny jeans and
a white shirt unbuttoned to
the navel. www.matches
fashion.com, 650

GET THE LOOK: WITHNAIL AND I


Gone on holiday by mistake? Live it up by the lakes Richard E Grant-style

From left: plaid waistcoat, 175, Boglioli at www.mrporter.com; Abraham moon coat, 325, John Lewis & Co (www.johnlewis.com); tartan-print
scarf, 115, McQ Alexander McQueen (www.harveynichols.com); trousers, 90, Norse Projects (www.goodhoodstore.com)
58 Cond Nast Traveller January 2014

PHOTOGRAPHS: THE KOBAL COLLECTION; MICHAEL OCHS ARCHIVES/CORBIS

Long live the King

Style file... on the scene


IT ay
LEGla four-wsers,

Check-in: The Chedi Andermatt

MX83 skis and bindings,


850, Kstle at Edge &
Wax (www.edgeandwax.
co.uk). Hiking boots,
920, Herms (www.
hermes.com). El Primero
lightweight watch with
carbon case, open-worked
dial, 13,600, Zenith,
exclusively at Harrods
(www.harrods.com)

ou
mu
For h ski tr www.
(
c
t
stre 0, Kjus com)
.
0
r
4
e

ort
mrp

A big-hitter hotel launch, with more to come, is


giving this ski village a lift. By Thea Darricote

PHOTOGRAPH: BETTMANN/CORBIS; CORBIS

snt this curious? An off-the-beaten-track ski resort


no one but the Swiss had heard of is suddenly
in the spotlight. A 1 billion investment has
turned an area on the edge of postcard-pretty
Andermatt into a whopping project of ultra-slick
chalets and six hotels. The rst to open, right
this very minute, is the Chedi. Designer
Jean-Michel Gathy has taken classic
Alpine hotels as his reference point
(the building is on the site of the old
Grand Hotel Bellevue) but has given
things his Asian-style kick with lots
of dark wood, orchids and a sushi bar.
New lifts from Andermatt to Sedrun
are on the cards for 2016, so go now
while the slopes are still
fantastically quiet. www.
thechedi-andermatt.com
Citadel coyote-trim
parka jacket, 750,
Canada Goose
(www.mrporter.com).
Pall striped rollneck
sweater, 150, NN07
(www.mrporter.com).
Super Stick Solaire,
67.50, Sisley (www.
sisley-paris.co.uk)

The ski set: Veronica Cooper, Jack


Hemingway, Ingrid Bergman, Gary Cooper
and Clark Gable take to the slopes

Looking good
The new HD Camera+Goggle
from ZEAL Optics is a rst,
documenting your ski adventures
on a 1080p HD video camera.
Its also handy for shooting photos
without taking your gloves off.
About 250, www.zealhd.com

GET A GRIP rms

n, He
Gloves from a selectio
g, 129,
Ba
.
m)
co
es.
rm
.he
(www
ox.com)
rin
cto
.vi
Victorinox (www
January 2014 Cond Nast Traveller 59

If you do one thing in

January

STAY IN DESIGN-DRIVEN VINEYARDS


Portugal is hitting a high note at the moment. Lisbons edgy
Architecture Triennale attracts design buffs from around
the world; theres a cool caf culture in buzzing Porto,
as well as the arrival of crisp boutique hotels such as Fazenda
Nova in the Algarve and Areias do Seixo on the Costa de
Prata. And this new attitude is heading inland to the once
fusty, dusty wine country.
The ultra-modern LAND hotel (www.l-andvineyards.
com) in the Alentejo got everyone excited about Portugals
vineyards, not just visiting them, but bedding down in them
as well. Further north in the Douro Valley, overlooking the
river, biodynamic winery Quinta de Covela (www.covela.pt)
now has three under-the-radar, glass-fronted villas available
to rent. Designed by local boy Jos Paulo dos Santos, each
sleeps up to eight and is a clever mix of Portuguese style and
contemporary European furniture, with B&B Italia and Minotti

sitting on Turkish carpets by Istanbul atelier Dhoku. And


then there is this place, pictured, from wine brand Quinta de
Lemos (www.quintadelemos.com), which has taken things
to the next level and created something out of the ordinary.
With super-charged architects Carvalho Arajo at the helm,
the new structure at the vineyard is astonishing. A singlestorey building appears carved out of the landscape, tucked
right up against a swoop of rock. Smart, sleek and snaking out
among the rugged scenery, it holds a showroom for tastings,
a restaurant and a three-bedroom guesthouse. Inside, the
twisting, smooth oors of polished concrete butt up against
soaring windows that let in immense amounts of natural light.
The point is this: gather a gang, take a statement house,
drink, eat and be merry (do swallow the wines, you must)
and then crash out beyond the barrels, with no worries about
the designated driver. ISSY VON SIMSON

January 2014 Cond Nast Traveller 61

62

SPELL IT OUT
THE OREGON CITY OF PORTLAND HAS A HUGE INFLUENCE ON THE
WAY WE LOOK, EAT AND DRINK. A DECADE ON FROM ITS RISE TO FAME,
HOW IS THE HIPSTERS HEARTLAND HOLDING UP, ASKS KATE MAXWELL.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY SQUIRE FOX

N
eed a break from glass-half-empty Britain?
Go to Portland. Ive spent the last six
years living in the USA, conducting
a careful survey of its cities dispositions,
and Portland is the most optimistic place
Ive found. You may know this Pacic
Northwestern city from Portlandia, the
TV sketch show that satirises the strongon-idealism, low-on-ambition lifestyles
of the locals; for whom the 1990s, when
people were talking about getting
piercings and tribal tattoos, and singing
about saving the planet, never ended.
Portland, says Fred Armisens character,
is where young people go to retire.
Portlandia gets just about everything
about the city dead right apart from the
weather. The sun always shines on TV; in
reality its quite the opposite: Pacic
Northwest winters are notorious for being
protracted and dismally damp. But even
this doesnt get the locals down.
Everyone you meet in this hipster
enclave, the Hackney of the Pacic
Northwest, seems to be high on life. Perhaps
its the constant caffeine rush, or all that
endorphin-generating cycling. Maybe

theres some kind of amphetamine in the


vinegar: the city has bear-hugged the
artisanal food movement and the pickle is
its mascot. If you can eat it, they pickle it.
Or maybe this unerring optimism is
the naivety of youth. Portland is a relatively
young city, even by American standards.
And then, when the worldwide web came
calling in the late 1990s, Portland, dubbed
Silicon Forest, saw an inux of young
creatives. Their numbers swelled even
further with refugees from pricier West
Coast cities when the bubble popped.
Portland has a small-town benevolence
and connection to nature with metropolitan
ideas and aspirations; its like a ShangriLa for artists and characters of all kinds,

microbreweries, food-cart pods and


countless coffee shops.
The rst thing I like to do when I hit
Portland is to go on a caffeine bender:
theres no better way to assimilate. At
Heart Roasters, I watched a bespectacled
crowd (glasses are ubiquitous here; lucky,
since I had inadvertently washed my contact
lenses down the plughole the previous
night) in army jackets, bow-ties, at caps,
nose rings and tattoos occasionally all
at once tap away on laptops while a DJ
played early 1990s pop and I drank my
Ethiopia Yukro bean espresso. At the
cavernous Coava, a Brooklyn migr used
a Chemex coffeemaker to craft my cup of
velvety, single-origin Salvadorian coffee,

THIS CITY IS THE MOST OPTIMISTIC


PLACE IVE FOUND. ITS WHERE
YOUNG PEOPLE GO TO RETIRE
to the point where it bristles with
creativity from every corner, says
Ace Hotels founder Alex Calderwood,
who opened his hotel here in 2007.
You see the entrepreneurial-meetsnature mash-up everywhere: in the
vintage stores and boutiques, which
cater to the nouveau lumberjack
with rugged outdoor-as-indoor fashion
and Pendleton blankets made into
handbags; in the rustic, woodsy decor
of its locavore restaurants and bars
peddling barrel-aged cocktails.
Still, the thriving cottage-style industries
have big business to thank: its the
well-paid employees of companies such
as Nike, founded here in 1965, and its
advertising agency, Weiden + Kennedy,
that help keep the lights on in the

extolled Portlands peaceful, affordable


lifestyle, and looked a little misty-eyed
when he recalled the all-night house
parties of his past New York life. But the
Portland coffee HQ the source is
Stumptown Annex, which offers tastings,
free of charge, every afternoon.
Founded by bearded Duane Sorenson
in 1999 and named after one of Portlands
nicknames (trees were felled during its
rapid growth in the mid 19th century but
the stumps remained), Stumptown was the
citys pioneer artisan coffee roaster, and has
now expanded to Seattle, New York and
LA. Stumptown is a respected employer
that treats its producers well; Portlanders
are proud of it, although perhaps less so
since a large stake was bought by a private
equity rm in 2011. My sommelier, or

Clockwise from top left: bedroom design at the Ace Hotel Portland, and the hotels breakfast room; wood-cabin chic and locally sourced food at the
Woodsman Tavern; surf boards at Worn Path, a store for outdoor kit. Previous pages: hanging out in the lobby at Ace Hotel Portland
64

barista, was certainly pleased to work


there. I havent just drunk the Kool-Aid, I
sell the Kool-Aid, he said.
Tasting coffee is far more complicated
than tasting wine and, if my experience
was anything to go by, oenophiles have
nothing on the fanatics it attracts. We
started by smelling ve different coffee
beans. Oh, yeah! said the guy to my
right, a local, at sample number three.
Boiling water was poured on the grounds
and we were instructed to move our
spoons in concentric circles over the
coffee while we assessed the aroma anew,
our noses hovering just above it. Oh,
yeah! said the guy again. Next, the crust
was removed to reveal the chalky liquor
beneath. Oh, thats awesome! said the
guy. Then the slurp, sip and spit.
By the time Id watched ve strangers
make sh lips, vacuum up spoonfuls of

coffee with an aggressive sound not


dissimilar to clearing phlegm from the
throat (the key here is to inhale so that
coffee droplets populate the nasal
passage), and hurl them into a spittoon,
well, we didnt feel like strangers anymore.
Finally, the big reveal. My favourite,
number four, was the Kenya Gaturiri, a
fruit bomb of a coffee which tasted like
sparkling wine, according to our barista.
Would that it had. Although, on second
tasting, it did, sort of. I left with a bag of
beans under my arm.
Portlanders coffee ardour is matched
by their devotion to local, seasonal,
sustainably raised and sourced food. In
one famous scene from Portlandia, the
characters leave their restaurant table to
visit the farm that has supplied the
chicken theyre considering ordering
because knowing its an organic, heritage

breed raised on four acres of woodland,


fed sheeps milk, soy and hazelnuts and
called Colin isnt enough.
I was reminded of this when I pulled
up a chair at the bar of Bamboo Sushi that
evening. First time? asked the bartender,
handing me a thick menu. I nodded.
Everything on the left of the menu is
about our sustainable partnerships, he said.
Everything on the right is food. Flicking
through, I wondered how on earth he
thought I could confuse Seafood Watch:
Understanding Sustainable Seafood with
albacore carpaccio. Or how shigoku
oysters could possibly taste like prosciutto
and honeydew melon, as he had promised.
Except they did. Perhaps it was the power
of suggestion again; everything seems to
taste better in Portland.
The next morning, I took the 17 bus
over the Hawthorne Bridge to my
favourite brunch spot, Tasty n Sons, in
Northeast Portland. At 9.30am there
was already a half-hour wait for a table
for one, so I poured myself a cup of
complimentary Stumptown and browsed
the bulletin board in the hallway, with its
Warm-a-Bulldog Coat Drive: Donate a
New or Gently Worn Dog Jacket, Coat or
Sweater to a Pit Bull and Earthquake
Preparedness Training: 10-Hour Workshop
Using Theater and Dance notices.
In New York, people more or less leave
you to your own devices if you eat in a
restaurant alone. Not here. By the time

Above, from left: vintage fashion at Wanderlust in Southeast Portland; the Laurel Hurst cinema. Opposite, a guest at the Ace Hotel Portland
66

Id nished my pickle-adorned Bloody


Mary, homemade biscuits with venison
gravy, and Burmese eggs (all delicious),
Id made three friends, been given local
restaurant recommendations that spanned
the globe Mexican, Thai, Argentine,
Japanese, Hawaiian, Indian, ice cream
(it was January) and road directions
for the Willamette Valley, the Pinot Noir
wine region which is, I was told, more
beautiful than Tuscany. Who needs
medieval villages, anyway?
Portland itself is not a beautiful
city. Its architecture is a mish-mash of
periods: there are Tudor-, Victorian- and
colonial-style wood-panelled houses,
often painted many colours, and lolloping
former factories on the east side of the
river; new-build eco, LEED-certied
skyscrapers abutting early-20th-century,
15-storey structures such as the American
Bank Building downtown; sprucedup brick warehouses in the cobblestoned
Pearl District. With its hefty, trafcclogged steel bridges, the Willamette
River that slices through the city, both
literally and metaphorically (some
hipsters wouldnt be seen dead on the
west side, where Nike execs and admen
from Wieden + Kennedy live), is no
Seine or Thames.
But the fact that the city isnt an oil
painting, that it wears its industrial logging
past on its plaid shirt sleeve, is to the

THE RECLAIMED, HOMESPUN


AESTHETIC GOES WELL WITH
A BEARD AND FLAT CAP
locals advantage: residential and
commercial rents are low, and as a result
there has been an explosion of small,
creative businesses (not everyone
is sitting around drinking coffee all day
long); a popular $75 business course
has helped many young entrepreneurs
on their way. Those who cant afford a
bona de restaurant or shop often start
with a truck. A few years ago there was
only a handful of these; now, pods of
as many as 50 food trucks occupy citycentre squares. I met boutique owners
whose rst premises had wheels, and
many bricks- and-mortar smallholdings

have a reclaimed, homespun aesthetic


that might have been born of necessity
but has become the default Portland look:
it goes well with a beard and a at cap.
What was most remarkable about the
entrepreneurs I encountered is their
spread-the-love community-mindedness,
the antithesis of capitalist Americas every
man for himselshness. You must have
loads of places to see, a vintage boutique
owner would say as I was leaving, but
could I just suggest [insert name of
competitive business] down the street?
You dont hear that in Manhattan. After
Tasty n Sons I browsed stores on North

Above: at the Yo Vintage! retro fashion store; pickled food at The Nines hotel. Opposite, clockwise from top right: aprons at Wanderlust; enjoying a
mug or two at Heart Roasters coffee; Stumptown, the local coffee pioneer; barber Adam Morehouse displays several tell-tale signs of the hipster
68

WHAT WAS MOST REMARKABLE ABOUT THE


ENTREPRENEURS I ENCOUNTERED IS THEIR
SPREAD-THE-LOVE COMMUNITY-MINDEDNESS
Mississippi Avenue, including Lodekka,
a double-decker London bus turned
vintage-fashion and record shop, Flutter,
which sells Fifties tea dresses and
taxidermy, and Land Gallery, where
woodcuts and watercolours share space
with T-shirts with slogans such as Cats
are people, too.
The tips just kept on coming it was
like following a paper trail. But at Worn
Path, which sells frontier-style accessories,
penknives, slingshots and raccoon skulls,
and where I bought a necklace comprised
of a painted twig and a brass feather,
the paper trail ran out. Occasionally all
that community spirit gets a bit much,
the ex-Londoner behind the counter told
me, slipping a bunch of Palo Santo
spacial cleansing incense sticks into my

bag. Sometimes you just need to sit in a


park on your own.
A 30-minute bus ride and a saunter
up a hill later, thats what I did, which is
another great thing about Portland: you
can be in the middle of the city one
minute and in nature, as Americans say,
the next. The spindly branches of the rose
bushes in Washington Parks Rose Test
Garden were still sparkling after a heavy
frost the night before. I found an icy bench,
placed my copy of The Oregonian on
it, sat down and contemplated the city
sprawling below. More peace and quiet
lay a stroll away, at the pagoda, pond, and
bridge-spangled Japanese Gardens. There
were a few other visitors, but none of them
was a hipster, nor did they offer me advice
or friendship. It was something of a relief.

That evening, my sociability renewed


after a couple of barrel-aged Negronis
(because Oregon is a controlled state
mixologists have had to get creative and
as Jeffrey Morgenthaler, barrel-ageing
pioneer and head bartender at Clyde
Common, put it, New York has a crush on
Portlands cocktail scene), I headed east
again, to Mississippi Studios. Were
usually a ve-piece email band, said the
lead singer of What Hearts, who was
rocking a just-off-the-bus look (cardigan,
skinny jeans and at boots), gesturing
to the three women and one man behind
her. I thought Id discovered the latest
trend, songwriting by email, until I
realised shed said female.
What Hearts bluesy, folksy tunes,
with outdoorsy lyrics such as The grass is

Above, frontier-style accessories at Worn Path on North Mississippi Avenue. Opposite, the vintage photo booth at the Ace Hotel Portland
70

ITS HARD TO BE AN ART CRITIC IN


A TOWN WHERE PEOPLE DONT
LIKE TO CRITICISE ANYTHING
too tall, theres rust on the gate, and
Its only a brick, its only a stone, if you
get sick youre on your own, seemed
the perfect Portland soundtrack.
And once again, I wasnt on my own;
Id bumped into a waiter Id met at
Luce restaurant at lunch and his art-critic
girlfriend (its hard to be an art critic
in a town where people dont like to
criticise anything, apparently). We
swayed together to the gentle music,
PBR beers in our hands.
As I took the elevator to my room at
the Ace Hotel that night, contemplating

a framed embroidery that read: If


youd taken the stairs youd be there
already. Its true, I had the same thought
Id had last time Id been on the Pacic
Coast: Id made more friends in a weekend
than I make most years. The whole
experience had felt like a giant hug.
Cheap rent, incredible food, great coffee,
friendly, civic-minded people, green
spaces to escape to when they get up your
grill, and the ability to live by ones
creative wits. No wonder Portlanders are
permanently on cloud nine. Perhaps next
time I go Ill buy a one-way ticket.

Clockwise from above: cocktail hour at Clyde Common; bedroom at the Ace Hotel; kimchi and
sauted vegetables on brown rice with egg at Tasty n Sons; music bill at Mississippi Studio
72

MAP: GARY VENN

ON THE HIPSTER TRAIL

FOOD AND DRINK


If you only hit one food truck, make it one-dishwonder Nongs Khao Man Gai, in the Southwest
Alder and 10th Street pod: the poached chicken
with rice and garlic, ginger and chilli sauce is a
$6.75 revelation. For delicious sushi with every
possible eco, local and sustainable credential,
book a table at Bamboo Sushi (310 SE 28th
Avenue; +1 503 232 5255) which has just opened
a second, Northwest restaurant (836 NW 23rd
Avenue; +1 971 229 1925). Southeast Division
Street has some of Portlands best bites, including
ever-expanding Thai sensation Pok Pok (3226
SE Division Street; +1 503 232 1387), and
Stumptown founder Duane Sorensons Woodsman
Tavern (4537 SE Division Street; +1 971 373
8264), which combines wood-cabin good looks
with great local food: Pacic Coast shellsh,
country hams, lumberjack-friendly cocktails like
the Hunting Vest, with cedar-steeped Campari
and rye. A few blocks down is the lament-bulblit Ava Genes (3377 SE Division Street; +1 971
225 0571), which has a meaty, daily-changing
Italian menu (I liked the orecchiette pasta with
sausage). And dont miss the opportunity to drink
Sorensons coffee for free at one of the daily
3pm tastings at Stumptown Annex (100 SE
Salmon Street; www.stumptowncoffee.com). For
ne dining par excellence, head to tiny LePigeon
(738 Burnside Street; +1 503 546 8796; www.
lepigeon.com); for a low-key experience nearby,
try restaurant-grocery store Luce (2138 E
Burnside Street; +1 503 236 7195), where my

$12 set lunch included a sublime, buttery al dente


spaghetti with a peppery kick. The preposterously
popular Tasty n Sons (3808 N Williams Avenue;
+1 503 621 1400) is the place to brunch: arrive
before the doors open at 9.30am or suffer the
consequences. To take a ride on the citys artisanal
cocktail wave, make a date with Teardrop Lounge
(1015 NW Everett Street; +1 503 445 8109),
which mixes the ultimate Portland tipple, Have
Faith (black bourbon with cold-brewed coffee
and g-balsamic gastrique). Raven & Rose
(1331 SW Broadway; +1 503 222 7673) has a
great line in homemade fruit liquors, and at
Clyde Common at the Ace Hotel (see below),
sample one of Jeffrey Morgenthalers barrelaged beverages. If you prefer your liquor straight
up, Distillery Row (www.distilleryrowpdx.
com) is a clutch of craft distilleries in former
warehouses; the original is the New Deal Distillery
(900 SE Salmon Street; +1 503 234 2513), whose
tasting ight includes the spicy Hot Monkey vodka.
WHERE TO STAY
Nowhere says Portland like the Ace Hotel
Portland (1022 Stark Street; +1 503 228 2277;
www.acehotel.com; doubles from about 145),
on the edge of the Pearl District. Its a social hub
as much as a hotel (guests sit on sofas around a
terrarium in reception, drinking Stumptown from
the on-site caf and tapping on Macbooks), it has
the industrial-chic decor thats the citys dening
aesthetic and a great bar-restaurant, Clyde

Common, serving seasonal, pickle-peppered


fare. Rooms are basic but comfortable: there are
Pendleton blankets on the beds (and bunks in
some rooms), thrift-store furniture, turntables
and claw-foot baths; guests can borrow bikes
for free. Also Downtown, The Heathman
Hotel (1001 SW Broadway; +1 503 241 4100;
www.heathmanhotel.com; doubles from
165) is a wood-panelled classic with strong
literary connections (theres a library of books
by writers who have stayed; it even features in
Fifty Shades of Grey), top-notch service, a
tearoom and elegant bedrooms beware of
the ghosts in rooms ending with 03. A couple
of blocks away, The Nines (525 SW Morrison;
+1 877 229 9995; www.thenines.com,
doubles from 190) occupies the upper oors
of the former Meier & Frank department store
and has a contemporary, Schrager-lite look; its
seven-story atrium has mismatched furniture
and houses the Urban Farmer steak restaurant,
serving grass-fed Oregon beef. Rooms are bright,
with large windows and glossy wallpaper.
WHERE TO SHOP
Portlands vintage stores range from scruffy
assemblages of Salvation Army nds to
tasteful edits of back-on-trend styles; for the
latter, try Yo Vintage! (413 SW 13th Avenue;
+1 971 266 8811), which mixes 1980s-era
animal print, denim and leather with new
jewellery and accessories, Lulus Vintage
(916 W Burnside Street; +1 503 360 1142)
for colourful, 1950s1970s mens and
womens duds; and in Southeast Portland,
Wanderlust (2804 SE Ankeny Street), for
girlie 1960s shift dresses and plaid shirts for
guys. At Canoe (1136 SW Alder Street;
+1 503 889 8545), 20 per cent of the home,
office and lifestyle products are made in
Portland look out for Patrick Longs and
Chester Wallaces canvas tote bags. Make a
pit stop for drinking chocolate at nearby
Cacao (414 SW 13th Street; +1 503 241
0656), and edible souvenirs: its vast array of
choc includes local brand Alma. Over the
Burnside Bridge, Appetite (2136 E Burnside)
sells handbags made from leather and
Pendleton blankets, pretty prints and thrifted
furniture, some of which is made at the studio
out the back; a couple of doors down,
Nationale (811 E Burnside St; +1 503 477
9786) exhibits local artists and sells perfumes,
bowls, tchotchkes and cult magazines such as
Apartimento. Up on North Mississippi Avenue,
Worn Path (4007 N Mississippi Ave; +1 503
208 6156) has rugged fashion, camping gear
and accessories, while Flutter (3948 N
Mississippi Avenue; +1 503 288 1649) has a
cushion, necklace, candle or book for every
Portland obsession: birds, cats, letterpress,
found objects, moustaches, you name it.

The coast of Uruguay is more than just a pop-up playground for beautiful people and billionaires: when the
change. Visiting his family there, Peter Browne keeps discovering new, untouched spots, from hippy

74

short shimmery season is over, its a cheerily eccentric, chilled-out place at ease with itself and in no hurry to
enclaves on remote beaches to grassy plains where you can ride with gauchos. Photographs by Pompi Gutnisky

hen jose mujica was caught on


microphone calling Argentinas
president that old hag, nobody
in Uruguay was particularly
surprised. Their president seems
to delight in a reputation for
eccentricity. After all, he drives
a VW Beetle and refuses to live
in the presidential palace. Last year he said
it was about time Uruguays marijuana
production was brought under state control.
In the 1960s, Mujica (known as Pepe)
was a leading member of the Tupamaros,
a group of urban guerrillas that once held
the British ambassador to ransom for
US$42,000. After that, he spent 14 years in
prison, most of it in solitary connement.
Pepe is married to Luca Topolansky,
a former Tupamaro-in-arms, and they
live on a chrysanthemum farm outside
Montevideo with a three-legged dog
called Manuela. Luca is my cousin Anas
aunt by marriage, and I am told the
presidential couple dont attend many

family gatherings, let alone host any


Camelot-style presidential balls.
Uruguay and its understated president
are made for each other. Created as a
buffer between two huge egos, Argentina
(a former Spanish colony) and Brazil
(Portuguese), Uruguay has had its fair
share of knocks, but its turned out rather
benignly eccentric, economically sane, and
disarmingly devoid of pretension. In other
words, an honest little country that can.
Each summer for decades my extended
family in Montevideo have shuttered
their houses in the citys quiet, jacarandalined Pocitos neighbourhood and
decamped to the beach. In the 1920s that
meant the old house in Carrasco, now
a suburb of the capital; in later years it
has been a farm outside Punta del Este,
where the great Ro de la Plata meets
Above, from left: the Brisas hotel in La Pedrera;
a village house; artworks in Casa Cuatro Aguas, a
private cottage to rent; La Pedreras Playa del
Desplayado. Previous pages, Playa del Barco

the Atlantic on a particularly beautiful


stretch of coast.
Argentina tends to look on Uruguay as
a rural backwater, a province for the taking.
And thanks to Argentine money, Punta del
Este has grown into a sunshine shimmy of
glass-fronted apartment blocks, restaurants,
shopping arcades and, at least for a few
weeks in high season, mega-clubs and bars.
Its where big cruise liners drop anchor and
Argentine women of a certain age model
identical ski-slope noses and blonde bobs.
I love Punta. I love the beach culture
and the relaxed, lightly salted suburban
feel to it. I love the old folks in trainers
walking their silly little dogs, and the
tanned teenagers in Ipanema ip-ops
and denim cut-offs irting in ice-cream
parlours. And I love the old port where
people dress for supper and there are
restaurants where career waiters still wear
red bow ties and pressed white shirts.
But despite its party-town reputation,
there is nothing hip or celebrity-driven

Jos Ignacio has certainly become more manicured and coherent


and with that perhaps just a little too smarty-pants for its own good
about Punta. Foreign visitors tend to be of
the American cruise-ship variety, or those
blown in from Buenos Aires on a beach
break at the suggestion of a tour operator.
At least thats always been my experience;
I tend to avoid it between Christmas and
mid-January, when Argentinas millionaires
host invitation-only parties on their vast
estates in the hinterland, and models in
swimwear advertise sports cars on slowly
revolving platforms in pop-up showrooms.
Most really smart Argentines have
migrated up the coast from Punta, past the
expensive shrubby suburbs, to La Barra
and Manantiales, where the look is more
Groovy Trancoso Dude than Pampered
Resort Matron. Little shops and restaurants
sell oaty dresses and Gucci sunglasses,
dulce de leche ice cream, American pizza
and Japanese sushi. Maids in black-and-

white uniforms, incongruous penguins in


the summer heat haze, take their red-faced
little charges to the beach; and at a hip
Brazilian hotel near La Barra a coffee
capsule from the minibar costs US$7.
But of course the place everyone has
talked about for years is Jos Ignacio, 12km
north, the much-publicised hangout of
British supermodels, Hollywood actors and
Colombian singers. When I rst came to
Jos Ignacio, curiosity whipped up by the
celebrity sightings, I was perplexed. What
a dopey little place, I thought, entirely
ignorant of the fact that this was precisely
its point: the Uruguayan shing village with
a lighthouse and a couple of decent beaches
was just the sort of obscure, off-the-radar
spot where famous people like to party.
Now that Jos Ignacio is very much on
the radar and a lot of foreign-property

investors have already cashed in, the


village looks more sedate and settled
than it once was. This despite the addition
of the Playa Vik hotel, designed with
great air by Uruguays top architect
Carlos Ott, and the recent opening of
a second hotel from the same owners,
Alex and Carrie Vik. Whatever your
view on its possible ruination, there is no
denying the fact that Jos Ignacio has
become more manicured and coherent,
and with that, well, perhaps just a little
too smarty-pants for its own good.
Rocha! You must go back to Rocha!
said my cousin Mercedes on the phone
from Montevideo when I was making
plans for another visit. No, not the town,
thats ugly. You wont like it. Its like San
Carlos [a grim town close to their farm].
77

Horrible! But Rocha the state [one of 19


departments in Uruguay] is fantastic!
Everyone I know in Uruguay loves
Rocha. They may prefer the shopping
in Punta and La Barra and even Jos
Ignacio (all in Maldonado) but they like
the beaches and remoteness of Rocha
best. The border between Maldonado
and Rocha lies north of Jos Ignacio on
the other side of a vast lagoon. There
is, at least for now, no bridge across the
water, so you have to scoot around it
by driving inland and then sharply back
down to the coast, adding an hour or
more to any trip. Most people simply dont
make the effort, which is one reason why
Rocha is largely undeveloped. (Another
is that there are only 3.4 million people in
Uruguay, with 1.8 million in Montevideo.
As someone has noted, theres a lot of
elbow room around here.)
A couple of years ago, while on a crazy
road trip from Argentina to Brazil, I

like-minded people, a place to swim and


gossip and grill sh under the stars.
Out of season, La Pedrera still has
the feel of a pioneer settlement in a wildly
remote place; but for a few weeks in
January and February its population swells
by two or three thousand. It must be a very
odd rhythm for its residents, this invasion
by Argentina and Brazils young and
hip, the families of sun- and fun-seekers,
followed by their abrupt departure as the
rst crisp nights of autumn arrive.
Its a relief when they go, to be honest,
laughs Martha Bello, who has lived here
for 20 years. Its fun, but its always good
to get the place back again. Martha has
lived in Brazil and the Ivory Coast, in Paris
and Sydney. She worked for UNESCO
and UNICEF and speaks ve languages.
She has had a noisy, busy life, but this is
the place for her now.
Like her friends and neighbours, the
Argentine artists Alicia Goi and Martn

speculators pushing up property prices


like they did in Jos Ignacio.
Looking at La Pedrera with my London
eyes, at the hot, sandy lanes of little houses
and sweet, ramshackle restaurants, one
bakery and general store, and noticeable
lack of a bank (theres a cash machine, but
it only works in high season), I am slightly
perplexed by my new friends worries
about overdevelopment. But then I recall
how this place began as a settlement for
family and friends and has managed to
remain a tight-knit community ever since.
Two days earlier, I had picked up my old
friend George at Punta del Este, fresh off
his hopper ight from Buenos Aires, and
we headed up to Rocha. Another friend,
Jamie, caught a cross-country bus from
Montevideo to join us. We had decided to
rent a house, the way most regular visitors
do, and get a feel for local life. It proved
to be a speedy assimilation. Thanks to our
villas enormous windows and prominent

La Pedrera isnt neatly arranged in any way. Over the years it has
grown along tendrils of sandy tracks leading off the tarred artery that
runs down to the sea. Only 215 people live here year round
happened upon a surfer hangout in Rocha
called La Pedrera, and fell in love. With its
pretty clifftop promenade and a profound
dislike of cars (the roads are really very
bad), it felt like somewhere on the cusp;
somewhere laid-back and dippy but where
the food was getting better; where the
rst smart little hotel had opened, all midcentury cool and two-ngers-up to last
seasons tired-looking yurts. It certainly
wasnt smarty-pants, at least not yet.
There really isnt much to La Pedrera.
It isnt neatly arranged in any way, let
alone around anything as conventional
as a green. Its two landmarks are a rocky
promontory jutting out between two
sandy beaches at one end, and a massive
municipal water tank at the other. Over
the years it has grown along tendrils
of sandy tracks leading off the tarred
artery that runs down to the sea. Only
215 people live here year round.
A century ago, La Pedrera was part
of a ranch owned by the Arrarte family.
Because the land here is stony and
fallow but the coast is particularly lovely,
the owner decided to use it for a simple
summer beach house of wood and tin,
and encouraged his friends to do the
same. Together they created a colony of

Arteaga, Martha feels very protective of


La Pedrera. I had tea with all three of
them in the garden of Alicas ower-lled
cottage, where a tiny hornero bird has
built a mud nest under the wooden eaves.
I didnt mean to live here, says Alicia,
who moved from Buenos Aires eight years
ago. It just happened. I had been coming
on holiday for a few years, and every time
I went back I missed it. In the city, most of
the noises you hear are anonymous; you
dont know where they are coming from
and that makes you feel anxious. Here I
know each sound and its origin, so there is
nothing to worry about! Its very relaxing.
You have to open up more when you
move here, says Martn. You learn a bit of
carpentry to x things, and the names of
trees and owers you never knew existed,
and you feel more creative.
But La Pedrera has been getting
more and more fashionable, says Martha.
Every year it grows a little bit more.
Thats ne in theory, but what we dont
want are developers building too many
houses on one small plot. We dont want
Opposite, clockwise from top left: Chez Silvia, a
restaurant-with-rooms at Oceana del Polonio;
artist and La Pedrera resident Alicia Goi;
Martn Arteagas studio; the deck at Chez Silvia

position on the Rambla, we quickly became


La Pedreras evening entertainment. We
call it the Reality TV House, laughed
Martn when I commented on the number
of people watching us from the comfort of
a bench on the promenade. Its a testament
to the kind, sweet people of La Pedrera
that we felt accepted rather than alienated,
and soon forgot we had an audience.
The last time I was here I had stayed at
the brand-new, bright and quietly stylish
Brisas hotel. It had taken guts for the young
owner, Laura Jauregui, to open something
so agrantly different, almost metropolitan,
in determinedly rural Rocha. But it was
a success from day one, she says, sitting
in the now-mature decked garden of her
hotel. Its been difcult, very hard work,
and a fantastic experience. But Ive done
it now, and its time to move on.
I suspect the hotel will return a healthy
prot for Laura. Any investor can see
its potential. Since the Brisas opened,
chefs from Montevideo and Buenos Aires
have begun opening restaurants serving
homemade pasta and focaccia and fresh
seafood. And they have the condence
to charge prices that reect a far more
moneyed client than the shaman-loving
hippies of old. (There are still plenty of
79

There was one simple posada, a few houses in the dunes and a nameless
restaurant in a cubist structure of weathered wood. It felt like a mirage
those gentle, questing souls about, notably
at a New Age commune in the nearby hills.)
La Pedreras much bigger, more prosaic
sister town is La Paloma, a few kilometres
south: an orderly place with supermarkets
and banks and a couple of low-key holidayhome developments in the surrounding
forest. About 90km further north, an hour
from the Brazilian border, is its opposite:
Punta del Diablo, a shing village overrun
with a joyful jumble of rickety, brightly
painted shacks, assembled in anarchy
around two of the most beautiful beaches
on the Rocha coast. Between this pair of
opposing sentries on the vast Atlantic, there
are only crashing waves, sea lions, sand
dunes and a handful of tiny settlements.
Every year my psychiatrist cousin Allen,
his wife Magdalena and babies Manuela
and Alfredo holiday at one of these, Cabo
Polonio, a hippy commune in a national

park where the stars are bright and life


depends on water bowsers and candlelight.
Allen loves it more than anywhere in the
world and gets very sad when I am rude
about it. What can I say? There was a storm.
I stepped in cow shit. I missed my iPhone.
But on that same visit I came across
Oceana del Polonio quite by chance (turn
right at the 256km mark on Route 10) and
was immediately enchanted: one simple
posada, a few private houses poking out
among the sand dunes, and a nameless
restaurant in a low-slung cubist structure
built of weathered wood, on the edge of
a miraculous beach. It felt like a mirage.
Since then the restaurant has been
christened Chez Silvia after its owner
Silvia Esquivel, who has added a couple
Above, from left: Alicia Gois studio in La
Pedrera; an interior at Alarga, a contemporary
private house on the Rambla, available to rent

of bedrooms and runs it as a restaurantwith-rooms with her partner Horacio


Acardi. When we stop by unannounced
(phone reception can be temperamental
in these parts) Silvia rustles up an amazing
lunch from scratch: quiche Lorraine
with a delicate plum-tomato salad, and
garlicky mussels and prawns served in
immaculate tapas style with Brazilian rice,
and herbs grown on the sunny deck.
I tell Silvia and Horatio about the last
time I was here, and how strange and
intriguing it had seemed to me. We built
this place ourselves, said Silvia, who
trained as an architect in Paris. But I
was still living in France, so I leased it
to an Argentine couple who ran it as a
restaurant-bar, but it didnt work out and
we decided to take it on ourselves. Then
a couple of years ago the posada burnt
down, which was very sad. And then one

COASTING IN URUGUAY
GETTING THERE

Buenos Aires-based
PlanSouthAmerica (+54 11
4832 6254; www.plansouth
america.com) can arrange
a six-day trip including car
hire and accommodation in
private houses in La Pedrera
and two nights at El Charabn
from 3,040, excluding ights.
British Airways (www.ba.
com) ies from Heathrow
to Buenos Aires, where there
are connections to Punta
with Aerolineas Argentinas
(www.aerolineas.com.ar)
or by ferry with Buquebus
(www.buquebus.com). Air
France (www.airfrance.co.uk)
ies direct to Montevideo
from Paris, Air Europa (www.
aireuropa.com) from Madrid.

WHERE TO STAY
IN ROCHA
La Pedrera makes a great
base for exploring Rocha but
its not blessed with smart
places to stay. The notable
exception is Brisas de La
Pedrera (www.brisasdela
pedrera.com; doubles from

about 80), a 15-bedroom


boutique hotel with oodles
of classy, mid-century style.
The other option is to
rent a private house, from
an architect-designed villa
to a ramshackle but delightful
old cottage. Local website
www.lapedrera.com.uy,
run by the fascinatingly wellinformed Martha Bello, gives
a taste of whats available.
To experience a traditional
Uruguayan cattle ranch, book
a stay at El Charabn (www.
elcharabon.com; doubles
from about 310), half an
hours drive from La Pedrera.
The owners and staff are
charm personied, the horses
rugged, polite and obliging,
and the landscape enchanting.
For starry skies and
romance, book one of the
two bedrooms at Chez Silvia
(www.chez-silvia-suite-bistrocaban.webnode.com.uy;
doubles from about 125)
at Oceana del Polonio,
marooned on a vast expanse
of dune-backed beach. Openhearted owners Silvia and

Horacio will make sure you


are well looked after and fed
beautifully prepared meals.

WHERE TO EAT
IN LA PEDRERA
The restaurant scene in
La Pedrera is expanding and
improving every year, but
tends to be a bit pop-up.
Of those likely to stay the
distance, De La Panza (+598
9882 4314) is perhaps the
best restaurant in town. Chef
Marcos gnocchi, focaccia and
tarte tatin are superb. Theres
more fresh pasta at Don
Romulo (+598 4479 2820)
and La P (+598 4479 2122),
both on the main drag, and
seafood and cold beers at
Costa Brava (+598 4479
2051) and Perilln (+598
4479 2259) on the Rambla.
La Jau (+598 9992 2091), a
boho restaurant in a restored
old house, serves wonderful
garlic prawns and grilled
swordsh. Family-owned
Casa Dulce (www.casadulce.
com.uy) has terric cakes
and super-sweet puddings.

MAP: RUSSELL COBB

of the houses, owned by an American,


which was very strange. Then another
house caught re. We lost six houses
before the police realised what was going
on and arrested one of the caretakers.
Apparently he was a pyromaniac who
would light a re, wait for the police and
then run around helping put it out. Silvia
gives me her best astonished face before
reassuring us that things have settled
back into a less eventful routine. Which
is just the way they and all the other
dreamers in Rocha tend to like it.
A couple of days later I head inland,
away from the sirens of the sea, to El
Charabn, a cattle and sheep ranch. I ride
with a gaucho and his two young sons
across rolling hills sprinkled with proud
stands of dark eucalyptus trees that cast
long shadows in the golden evening light.
We canter up and down rocky ravines and
across clumpy paddocks on horses with
thick, short tails and cropped manes. My
saddle is covered in sheepskin and I cant
quite get a grip; my stirrups are far too
long. But now the sheepdogs are off at
speed, chasing armadillos and rabbits,
and so are we. Suddenly I nd my seat and
I am ying across the pampas at an easy
gallop. Just ahead, the gaucho looks back,
grins and gives me the thumbs up. Seldom
have I felt more welcome and at ease. It is,
I realise, that Rocha feeling.

81

WE HOSTEL+DESIGN

So Paulo
With its immaculate white walls, elegant
curved architraves, highly decorative
cornicing and black-framed windows,
this early-20th-century mansion in
the Vila Mariana neighbourhood is not
what you would expect at all. Architect
Felipe Hesss monochrome interiors
have style as well as substance, the
communal spaces even more so than
the bedrooms. The sitting rooms
are decked out with retro sofas and
armchairs scooped up at junk sales and
restored. Low plywood bookshelves
are lined with inky laminate and stacked
with faded, well-thumbed copies of
Philip Roth, Mary McCarthy, Graham
Greene and Mark Twain in Portuguese.
The kitchen has an industrial edge,
with a poured-concrete work surface
and lights suspended from a laundry
rack. Dorms plain, minimal sleep
up to eight in metal bunks and have
QR codes by the doors that you scan
to download a city map, music mix,
or sightseeing guide. www.wehostel.
com.br. Beds from about 12

TREND WATCH

HOT

HOSTELS

Hostel used to be a dirty word that


rogue s in the middle dragging things
down a peg or two. Hostels were the
practical option. They ticked the budget
box. The best you could hope for was that
they would be clean. But here comes a
twist in the tale, an unexpected hiccup in
hotel order. The recession has created a
new kind of backpacker. Travellers have
begun to be more savvy, wanting more bang
for their buck, and hostels are cleverly
cashing in, bringing architects and interior
designers on board. This is our pick of places
that have managed to fuse a reasonable
room rate and a cracking location with
considered design and highly covetable
furniture. Its a fresh, smart way to travel.
Even if you have never even considered
the wonders of a bunk bed, perhaps the
time to start is now. ISSY VON SIMSON

83

THE FREEHAND

Miami

This was always going to have style


kudos with Stephen Alesch and Robin
Standefer husband-and-wife design
duo Roman & Williams calling the
shots. Past projects include the Ace
Hotel, the club formerly known as the
Boom Boom Room atop the Standard,
and the just-opened Viceroy, all in
New York. Their retro stamp works
brilliantly in an urban setting, and its
just as relevant in this Florida hostel.
Its a summer camp, a Sixties-sheened,
sandy-feet hangout. The 1930s building,
previously the Indian Creek Hotel, has
undergone a total transformation. The
shared rooms, licked with pale lemony
yellow and a deep indigo blue, are fresh
and nautical and feel modern in spite
of their old-school make-up. A cocktail
bar called The Broken Shaker and a pair
of ping-pong tables are found under
a string of fairy lights by the pool; and
red sit-up-and-beg bicycles are racked
and ready for hire out the front. www.
thefreehand.com. Beds from about 19

KEX HOSTEL

Reykjavik
This massive, three-storey warehouse on
the Reykjavik waterfront was once the Frn
factory, churning out Icelands favourite
biscuit, the Mjlkurkex. The building has
been transformed into its own little hotspot,
and the hostel is now a destination, not just
for backpackers but for locals too. The
restaurant, Smundur Spariftunum, with
its steel-framed windows and pendants over
the bar, is a slice of Brooklyn via Shoreditch,
but with views of the mountains on the
other side of the Faxai bay. The furniture
here and throughout is almost entirely
second-hand and recycled. Set designer
Halfdan Pedersen scoured auctions and
sales not only in Europe (East German
school desks, light ttings from bomb
shelters) but also the USA, shipping home
Amish church benches and Bauhaus lamps
unearthed in Pittsburgh. The result is an
eclectic mix. Theres a barbershop for a
quick trim, a gym called Box for sparring,
and Drinx, a bar serving craft beer. The
dorms sleep up to 16 (grab earplugs
at reception), but there are also private
rooms for those who want to tap into
this scene but not get quite so up-close.
www.kexhostel.is. Beds from about 16
85

86

THE INDEPENDENTE

PHOTOGRAPHS: SHANNA JONES

Lisbon
A late-19th-century mansion that has
been smartly reimagined by a trio of
brothers. It is stuffed to the gills with
classical features a stomped-smooth
chequerboard marble oor, soaring
stone archways, fantastically ornate
ceiling plasterwork, stained-glass
window lights and detailed wroughtiron balconies facing out over the
Tagus River but has been updated
for a new generation. The reclaimed
furniture is right on the button: theres
a pair of highly covetable leather
buttery chairs in the entrance hall,
a dozen S-shaped, pale-grey Panton
chairs around a communal table in
Decadente, the hostels restaurant and
focal point, and a red Arne Jacobsen
Swan and cherry-coloured Mies Van
Der Rohe Barcelona sofa opposite
each other in the sitting room. Stacks
of battered suitcases and vintage
typewriters from ea markets add to
the detail. And the bedrooms are no
less carefully thought-out. The oors
are laid with original Portuguese tiles,
and the triple bunks are fashioned from
chipboard, with numbers stencilled
on the sides. Blackboard walls running
along some of the stairways bring the
whole place up to date, with directions
around the building and chalked-up
messages about happenings in the
coming week. www.theindependente.pt.
Beds from about 9

SEKEPING KONG HENG Ipoh, Malaysia


Up in the warehouse-like space on
the second oor, going to bed involves
climbing a metal ladder into one of
two glass boxes suspended within the
steel rafters like industrial treehouses.
In the communal rooms, mattresses
are laid on hard-edged wire palettes
lined up in a row. Floors are concrete,
and the few walls rough, raw, exposed
brick. Green paint on the louvred
shutters has aked and peeled back to
reveal the wood beneath. A clattering

re-escape staircase runs up through


the middle of the building. It is noisy
and bare, intentionally so. There are
no frills at the Sekeping, but you come
for the architectural kick of seeing the
building from the inside out. Theres
no attempt to make good the original
features of the century-old Malay
shophouse. Instead, they are celebrated
in their disrepair. At this hostel, history
comes rst. www.sekeping.com/
kongheng. Beds from about 23

DOWNTOWN BEDS Mexico City


and a graphic map is printed on the
wall. In the bedrooms, high vaulted
ceilings are lined with clay bricks,
oorboards are painted white and the
bunk beds are formed from a neonsprayed matrix of hollow blocks, a
material also used to separate shower
rooms from bedrooms, to catch water
under the bathroom taps, and to run
alongside the edge of the rooftop
swimming pool. www.downtownbeds.
com. Beds from about 10

PHOTOGRAPHS: UDINE PROHL

Grupo Habitas Downtown Mexico


hotel is in a rather grand 17th-century
palace. This cheap-seats offshoot
is just next door, in what was once
the servants quarters. Both projects
were designed by architect Abraham
Cherem and share similar ashes of
smart design. The internal courtyard,
a beer garden, is dominated by a red
Corona bar and an equally poppybright foosball table. Industrial bare
bulbs hang down into the space,

89

BUNK BEYOGLU

Istanbul
The bunks at Bunk are perfectly
respectable, with custom-made white
frames, thick mattresses, freshly pressed
sheets, individual wall lights, cubbyholes and padlockable drawers. So far,
so hostel. But it gets more interesting.
Overhead are photographic prints of the
citys most glorious ceilings a glittering
chandelier, a highly decorative mosque,
the beautiful Byzantine dome of Hagia
Sophia. Up on the roof, theres a hot tub
and a deck with cushions for sunbathing.
The smart little ground-oor caf, with
its bohemian vibe, is another draw. The
narrow space, which opens out onto
the street on sunny days, has marbletopped tables, kilim rugs, walnut-cased
Loewe Opta radios and record players
on the metal-barred bookshelves, and
Italian espressos and Turkish coffees on
tap. At night, a DJ plays and the room
becomes a buzzing bar. www.bunkhostels.
com. Beds from about 17

U HOSTEL
Theres no fear of colour in this
elegant, 19th-century corner building:
the whitewashed rooms have a
blast of apple green or fuchsia pink.
Coordinating sliding stable doors close
off the bathrooms, and reproduction
Eames chairs are placed on woven
seagrass rugs. Girls dorms have
built-in dressing tables with vanity
mirrors and hairdryers. Not all those
who wander are lost, says the Tolkien
quote on the wall. In the chill-out
area, a velvet Chestereld is anked
by battered leather armchairs, and a
Fortuny tripod lamp stands alongside
a giant magnetic wall map of the
city. The caf has emerald and cobalt
Xavier Pauchard Marais chairs as
well as wooden-topped, industrialmetal bar stools. Theres a slate-tiled
communal kitchen with a fridge the
size of a truck, and daybed cushions
are laid out on a tiered platform
in the cinema room, the place to
watch DVDs or football matches on
rainy days. www.uhostels.com. Beds
from about 12

PHOTOGRAPHS: DIMITRIS KLEANTHIS

Madrid

CITY CIRCUS HOSTEL

Athens
This is quite the quirky space. Graphic
artists studio Nevertheless has given
it a whimsical, playful, themed style.
Their take is a Dada-esque mash-up;
a collage of photographs and eccentric
motifs is pasted up in the entrance
hall, and corridors are decorated with
prints of acrobatics and other circus acts.
The primrose-yellow mansion in the
hip Psirri neighbourhood is packed with
restored features, including ornate
frescoed ceilings and baroque oor tiles.
Dorm rooms are back-to-basics, with
wooden beds and school desks. A ash of
personality comes from the apple-green,
crayon-blue and apricot-coloured blankets.
Gilt mirrors hang over subway tiles in the
bathrooms. In the sitting room, ea-market
chairs are placed around a square communal
table. A wallpaper-pasting board, painted
white, is set up for breakfast, the open
kitchen serves pizzas and cocktails at night,
and a screen pulls down for lms. But the
best is up top, with views of the illuminated
Acropolis from the roof-terrace bar. www.
citycircus.gr. Beds from about 13

91

92

TRUE BLUE

The pulsing, club-hopping crowds may have departed but Ibiza never loses its cool.
Off season is the time to really go, to seek out sun, solace and your own space.
Styled by Fiona Lintott. Photographs by Chloe Mallett

At the Giri Caf (www.thegiri.com), San Juan.


Bikini top, 175; bottoms, 175, both Norma
Kamali (www.normakamali.com). Leather
sandals, 770, Louis Vuitton (www.louis
vuitton.co.uk). Crystal Rococo bracelet, 239,
Shourouk at Harrods (www.harrods.com).
Turquoise bracelets, 145 each, Pebble
(www.pebblelondon.com). Ring, models own

At Experimental Beach Ibiza bar


(www.eccbeach.com), Cap
des Falco. Dress, 264, Sea at
Liberty (www.liberty.co.uk).
Shell necklace, 220, Pebble
(www.pebblelondon.com).
Mini 2 Jours leather bag, 1,140,
Fendi (www.fendi.com).
Opposite, at Cas Gasi hotel
(www.casgasi.com) in Gertrudis.
Crochet top, 720, Vanessa Bruno
(www.vanessabruno.com). Silk
skirt, 755, Louis Vuitton (www.
louisvuitton.co.uk). Leather
sandals, 350, Mulberry (www.
mulberry.com). Mini 2 Jours bag,
1,140, Fendi (as before)
94

96

At Experimental Beach Ibiza bar.


Silk dress, 1,635, Chlo (www.
chloe.com). Turquoise necklace,
220, Pebble (www.pebble
london.com). Mobil bag, 1,630,
Louis Vuitton (www.louisvuitton.
co.uk). Court shoes, 370, Saint
Laurent by Hedi Slimane (www.
ysl.com). Rings, models own.
Opposite, at Amante Beach Club
(www.amanteibiza.com), Sol
Den Serra. Embroidered matelass
jacket, 2,750, Erdem at www.
net-a-porter.com. Bikini bottoms
(sold as set), 410, Roksanda
Ilincic at Selfridges (www.
selfridges.com)

At Experimental Beach Ibiza bar.


Lurex pois-chiffon halter-neck
jumpsuit, 2,430, Gucci (www.
gucci.com). Wedges (just seen),
POA, Louis Vuitton (www.
louisvuitton.com). Opposite, at
Amante Beach Club. Halter-neck
swimsuit, 350, Norma Kamali
(www.normakamali.com). Broderie
anglaise shirt, 895, Mulberry
(www.mulberry.com). Hair and
make-up, Ruth Warrior at Lovely
Management using Chanel S/S 14
collection and Krastase haircare.
Model, Polina Sova at Union Models.
With thanks to Cas Gasi (www.
casgasi.com; doubles from about
255). The hotel is open all year
98

OLD-SCHOOL

YOU WANT THE CARIBBEAN, BUT YOU WANT IT THE LAID-BACK, UNFUSSY WAY, WITH
ROADS. IF THATS YOUR STYLE, SAYS JEREMY WAYNE, YOU NEED THE BRITISH

FLAVOUR
PHOTOGRAPHS: CRAIG FORDHAM; JEN JUDGE

RUM BARS AND BEACH SHACKS AND RICKETY TAXIS THAT RATTLE YOU ALONG DIRT
VIRGIN ISLANDS. BUT GO NOW, AS THE HIGH-ROLLERS ARE MOVING IN

101

102

PHOTOGRAPHS: CRAIG FORDHAM

od remembers! shouts the


headline from the broadsheet the large
black lady in the jaunty straw hat and
canary-yellow sun dress is reading, wedged
into the seat next to me on the Liat
prop-plane. We are ying from Antigua
to Tortola, a 30-minute hop across the
water. He has certainly remembered these
islands. Strung out between St Maarten
and Puerto Rico, this British Overseas
Territory comprises 60 islands, islets
and cays. From the lush hills and valleys
of Virgin Gorda, the fat virgin, to the
impossibly beautiful, at coral island of
Anegada, seeming to oat like a disk
in a limpid pool, the British Virgin Islands
will knock your socks off.
At Beef Island airport, the most
civilised in the Caribbean by a mile, an
immigration ofcer peers at me through
Dame Edna specs. Welcome to BVI!
she says, as if she means it. A portrait of
William and Kate, grinning like Cheshire
cats, looks down on incoming arrivals,
a masterpiece of cheesiness. You will
love the Virgin Islands, love them before
youre even out of the airport.
Down at Trellis Bay, a perfect curve of
sandy beach and palm trees dotted with
rum shacks, I spy my neighbour from
the plane, the lady in the canary-yellow
dress, sitting incongruously on a bench,
alone, drinking cherry crush. As the lights
start to twinkle and the scent of plumeria

hits the air like a wave, I take the boat


to Guana Island, 12 minutes away.
The guest rooms in Guanas cottages
are painted white, with bleached-wood
furniture. Somehow simplicity has evaded
great swathes of the Caribbean, where
gaudy fabrics sound the death knell for
good taste, but not so here. Established in
the 1930s by the Bigelows and now owned
by the Jarecki family Henry Jarecki, a
naturalised-American philanthropist, is
a psychiatrist by profession who made his
squillions in precious metals Guana has
long been a nature reserve. Along with its
gorgeous beaches, all yours for the asking,
the island is home to an ongoing ora-andfauna project. Iguanas cruise the paths
like extras in a dinosaur movie, and down
in the orchard there are papayas, coconuts,
mangoes and bananas, which, just like

IN A PART OF THE
WORLD FULL OF
GORGEOUS BEACHES
THERE CANT BE A
MORE JAW-DROPPING
ONE THAN THIS
in the Rodgers and Hammerstein song,
you can pick right off a tree.
After sunset, you dine on the Queens
Terrace: butternut-squash soup followed
by grilled swordsh cooked by a Catalan
chef with golden hands and a Hollywood
smile. Later you wander over to what is
known as the Garden of Eden, just along
from the main house, where a ruined arch
and park bench make up the romantic
little section called the English Garden.
This is a Caribbean story, but it is not
the Caribbean of Colin Tennant, or a
story about the eshpots of Barbados, or
Left, a villa interior in Oil Nut Bay. Above, a
map of Cooper Island and, opposite, a view of
Manchioneel Bay. Previous pages, top row: a
caf on Beef Island; a bakery on Anegada; a
walkway on Cooper Island; in the Guana Island
library; a dive shop on Anegada; a daybed on
Guana Island. Bottom row: a beach on Norman
Island; a signpost on Jost Van Dyke; The Sugar
Mill, Tortola; a room at the Bitter End Yacht
Club; the bar at Cooper Island; snorkelling gear

a tale of riches and super-yachts. This is


about an altogether simpler Caribbean and
a few families the Bigelows and Jareckis
of Guana (and now Norman Island, too),
the Hokins of Bitter End, the Penns of
Hodges Creek and the late, great Laurance
Rockefeller of Little Dix, the grand-daddy
of ecotourism all of whom recognised a
kind of utopia and then set about making
it liveable in. Pioneers all, they never
confused comfort with luxury, and they
interfered with their surroundings as little
as possible, thereby creating the ultimate
luxury: the ability to live simply in nature.
On a lazy Sunday morning, I head out
to Little Dix Bay on Virgin Gorda. In a
part of the world full of gorgeous beaches,
there cant be a more jaw-dropping one
than this: half a mile of blinding-white sand,
the buildings behind it all hidden from
view, just as Rockefeller planned it. Little
Dix, 50 years old this year, is still one of
the loveliest hotels in the Caribbean, smart
but not especially sophisticated, with good
food and a great spa and kid-friendliness
built into its bones. There are no room
keys, no garish colours, no jarring notes of
any kind, except perhaps for the mugs and
polystyrene cups at teatime, tea being
something of an institution at Little Dix.
Some of the staff have been here for 40
years or more, and Michael the boatman
has been on Virgin Gorda for 26 years,
though in all that time he hasnt ever been
to Guana, a 20-minute boat ride away.
Curiosity is never going to kill this cat.
Slip out of the back door at Little Dix
and you can amble into Spanish Town,
15 minutes down a dusty road, everything
down-at-heel but somehow vivid, bright
and alive. Dare to be Different! says the
sign outside Ashleys hair salon, swaying
hardly at all in the non-breeze. I resist and
instead make for the Goose Bar, a grog

you doin here? she asks me, like an old


but irritable friend, and I respond with the
only possible answer, which is that I could
very well ask her the same question.

shop where a blackboard announces Pia


Coladas, Margaritas and Rum Punches at
a knockdown price only the Dominican
barmaid doesnt know how to mix any of
them. At the bar next door, I drink Pussers
(the local rum) and Coke, as a dreadlocked
Guyanan, strung out on who-knows-what,
xes me at the bar and tells me Pussers will
kill me in six months at if Im not careful.
What I need what everyone needs
on Virgin Gorda, which is madly, deeply
beautiful but vertiginously steep, its roads
unlit at night is a reliable taxi driver, so
Im pleased to nd Cyril. After my errands
are run, we stop for a drink at Hog Heaven,
a bar on the road high above Leverick Bay,
with a view of the islands Necker, Saba,
Scrub, Tortola, Anegada in the distance
104

so heart-stopping it turns grown men into


blubbering girls. Speaking of girls, Cyril
tells me he has a lot of daughters, which
of course is a blessing, but they all want
new laptops, which is not. I hope Im not
attering myself when I say he seems quite
pleased to have my company, happy to
get out of the house for an hour or two.
From Spanish Town I catch Speedys
ferry to Tortola, the big island. Speedys is
not a very apt name for this company, but
today my luck is in. Its Commonwealth
Day, which means lots of people are not
working, and this morning the ferry is on
time. And its virtually empty, too, except
for a couple of tourists and guess who?
The lady in the canary-yellow dress, only
today she is wearing burnt orange. What

Above, the beach at Bitter End Yacht Club.


Opposite, clockwise from top left: mural on
Tortola; garden on Guana Island; Road Town
houses; beach chairs at Cooper Island; signs on
Beef Island; paintings in the bar, Guana Island;
tropical plants on Virgin Gorda; Pirates bar
on Norman Island; White Bay, Guana Island.
Next page, sunbathing deck at Bitter End

PHOTOGRAPHS: CRAIG FORDHAM; JEN JUDGE

t the road town docks, I am


met by JQuelah, who is holding
up a sign with my name on it.
JQuelah is ve years old. Her dad,
Aaron, who is very up on BVI history
and sings along to local band the Lashing
Dogs as he drives, is taking me over to
Frenchmans. A few miles west of Road
Town, the hotel is Daphne du Maurier
and Cornwall through and through, with
a bit of Agatha Christie thrown in for
good measure. Im thinking of A Caribbean
Mystery or Evil Under the Sun, as I see
people lying out, like sh on the slab,
turning golden brown, or children gathering
shells or catching crabs from the rocks
though you couldnt imagine anything
remotely unpleasant happening here.
I absolutely adore Frenchmans, with its
pretty, stone-built rooms, its shallow bay,
its magical views and its altogether oldfashioned cheeriness. I mean, if you didnt
have children of your own, youd want to
get hold of a few just to bring them here
on holiday, such a perfect place is it.
Tortola is packed with history, a lot of it
related to sugar and the slave trade. Road
Town, the capital, is a vital, hard-working
little community, with a sense of scale and
its place in the world. Not every town has
that and its to be treasured. Road Town
is neither quaint nor ugly, but neat and
practical, like St Peter Port or Gibraltar
without the 1950s council ats or squalid
pubs. Denitely my kind of town. Along
with the usual trippery shops, unavoidable
in any Caribbean port, it has two great
roti places, a world-class restaurant called
The Dove, and a ourishing economy
based mainly on offshore banking and
yacht chartering. It also has a social
conscience. HM Prison, the oldest building
in town, was the site of the execution in
1811 of Arthur Hodge, the rst British
plantation owner ever to be hanged for
the murder of a slave.
East of Road Town, over at Hodges
Creek (which, now that I know a little bit
about Arthur Hodge, doesnt strike me as

FROM A ROAD HIGH ABOVE THE BAY, THE VIEW OF THE ISLANDS IS
SO HEART-STOPPING IT TURNS GROWN MEN INTO BLUBBERING GIRLS

106

PHOTOGRAPH: CRAIG FORDHAM MAP: MARIKO JESSE

such an appealing name for


a creek), Margaret Penn treats
me to lunch. She and her
husband Romney, a hugely
successful local architect,
hotelier and developer, are
BVI royalty. A dead ringer for
Anne Bancroft, and nifty on
her iPad, Margaret lls me in
on her plans for revitalising the
harbour here, along with the
creaky old Marina hotel. There
will be nothing ash, I suspect,
just comfortable rooms done
up in simple good taste.
Ten minutes from Hodges
Creek is Cooper Island, one
of the string of small islands
that face Tortola across the Sir
Francis Drake Channel. New
owners have turned the Cooper Island
Beach Club into one of the loveliest spots
in the BVI, although beach club is a little
misleading. Theres a bar and restaurant
at the waters edge, and just a handful of
newly renovated cottages climbing up the
gentle hill. Everything here is blonde wood,
white paint and taupe, a Kelly Hoppen
dream, with not a patterned bedspread in
sight. The spiffy bathroom works, as does
the concealed fridge. There are mosquito
nets and a ceiling fan, which you need as
this is an eco-friendly resort with no airconditioning (although I did spy an air-con
unit in the beach-club ofce).
As for Cooper Island itself, a heavenly,
lush microdot without so much as a paved
road let alone a grocery store, its half-adozen houses are privately owned, as is all
the land. So, beautiful as it is to sail around,
its also tantalising, because its impossible
to penetrate the island. On the other hand,
you could happily sit on your terrace
forever, reading or sleeping or listening to
Mozart (or the Lashing Dogs), taking in
the view of the beach and the yachts and

the islands, and going off to swim, snorkel


or sail only when exquisite monotony sets
in, which in my case it never seems to do.

f you need space, Peter Island has


plenty. It is two islands along from
Cooper, past uninhabited Salt, which
from the water looks like an Orientalist
painting. The Peter Island Resort & Spa
takes up the entire 1,800 acres. Another
older hotel that has kept ahead of the
curve, it still puts comfort ahead of luxury;
some of the original rooms are positively
gemtlich (although its three new villas are
pretty sprauncy). And two of its beaches,
Deadmans and Little Deadmans, rank
among the BVIs best, which is saying a lot.
If this story is a celebration of the
simple and the not-so-swish, it is also a
warning, because the BVI of old mellow
and unaffected may be under threat.
Sound government, political stability and
a strong US-dollar-based economy mean
the islands are ripe for development. Smart
and super-smart resorts are on their way, or
have already arrived. American developer

GETTING THERE

WHERE TO STAY

BVI specialist Turquoise Holidays


(+44 1494 678400; www.
turquoiseholidays.co.uk) can
arrange travel to any of the
properties mentioned. A sevennight holiday in the BVI, staying at
Cooper Island, starts from 1,599
per person. Combining two or
more islands is recommended;
a 10-day trip, with ve nights
at Peter Island and ve at Little
Dix Bay, starts from 2,245
per person. Both prices include
ights and transfers.

Bitter End Yacht Club Yachtie


paradise on Virgin Gorda. www.
beyc.com. Doubles from about 460
Guana Island Private island, great
food, total seclusion www.guana.
com. Doubles from about 510
Frenchmans Buckets and spades
on Tortola. www.frenchmansbvi.
com. Doubles from about 245
Peter Island Resort & Spa
Private island, great beaches.
www.peterisland.com. Doubles
from about 295

Old BVI

David Johnsons Oil Nut Bay,


a 300-acre community of
88 homes on the eastern tip
of Virgin Gorda, is accessible
only by boat or helicopter
and offers housekeeping and
butler services. Its onebedroom suites have plunge
pools and interiors by Fendi
Casa. To its credit, Oil Nut is
being built with underground
utilities, responsible water
management and solar power,
and the sauted red snapper
with pepperonata and herbed
orzo I had in the clubhouse
was the best dish Ive eaten
in the Caribbean in 20 years.
But theres a new yacht
club, too: Costa Smeralda.
Also owned by Johnson, it is attracting
very big boats, and a super-yacht regatta
has now come to what was only recently
a very sleepy corner of the globe. Between
them, Oil Nut and Costa Smeralda are
going to make Sandy Lane or Parrot Cay
look like a Days Inn. Marriotts new baby
in the BVI, meanwhile, is Scrub Island
Resort, which offers Champagne and
chocolate-covered strawberries in its Ixora
Spa and holds regular wine tastings in its
Gourmet Market. Its only a matter of
time before the airport, expanded and
developed in 2004, is extended again.
Of course, the old and the new can exist
side by side. But me, Im old-fashioned. So
give me driftwood over teak, mosquito nets
and ceiling fans over sprays and air-con,
a sailboat over a Sunseeker, the local grog
shop rather than the hotel bar. Ill take
Cyril over a hotel butler any day. And
therell always be a space in my heart for
the lady in the yellow dress (even if shes
wearing orange) because, although we
barely know each other, I feel certain
were going to be friends.

Little Dix Bay Where it all started.


www.rosewoodhotels.com. Doubles
from about 295
Cooper Island Beach Club Killer
views, big bar and restaurant scene.
www.cooperislandbeachclub.com.
Doubles from about 125

New BVI
Oil Nut Bay Butlers, helicopters,
the works. www.oilnutbay.com.
Doubles from about 615
Scrub Island Resort Marriott
efficiency, sophisticated spa, all
the watersports. www.scrubisland.
com. Doubles from about 230

WHERE TO EAT
Cocomaya Beach setting, Asianinspired menu, best food on the
island. Spanish Town, Virgin Gorda
Hog Heaven Pia Coladas,
barbecue, fanatastic views. Nail
Bay Road, Virgin Gorda
Roti Palace Plastic tablecoths,
fake owers, wonderful roti.
Main Street, Road Town, Tortola
The Dove Steamed mussels, beef
carpaccio, seared ahi tuna for
when you need a break from
burgers and jerk chicken. Main
Street, Road Town, Tortola

When it comes to remote, unfussy bush camps giving face-to-face safari encounters, Zambia
super-cool architects to create the countrys wildest and smartest lodge with a heritage that

108

is in a class of its own. But now its going in a new direction as the best guides pair up with
stretches back for generations. Peter Browne tells the tale. Photographs by Philip Lee Harvey

THE BAR IS HUNG WITH FRAMED PHOTOGRAPHS, PAST AND PRESENT,


INCLUDING ONE OF A CHUBBY BOY WALKING HIS FATHERS PET LION

he 1966 film based on Born Free, Joy Adamsons


book about Elsa the orphaned lion cub, brought Kenya to the
big screen on a scale not to be repeated until Isak Dinesens
Out of Africa got the Meryl Streep treatment 20 years later.
I remember watching it in my annelette pyjamas at the
Nitestar drive-in cinema in
what was then Salisbury,
Rhodesia, tears streaming
down my face as Elsa, older,
wiser and wilder after a
year in the bush, pads out
to introduce her litter of
three cubs to the Adamsons.
What I didnt know
then, and only discovered
fairly recently, is that at the
same time as Adamsons
book was nudging the
bestselling charts, another
on a similar theme had
been written in Northern
Rhodesia, now Zambia,
not that far (at least in
African terms) from the
Nitestar cinema.
Return to the Wild by
Norman Carr tells the tale
of orphaned lion cubs
Big Boy and Little Boy,
nurtured by him, kept in line
by Cindy his mastiff-mongrel
and bullied mercilessly by
a couple of wild lion thugs
named Goebbels and
Stooge. It relates how the
boys were fed on zebra and
buffalo carcasses until they
could hunt on their own, and
were eventually freed to go
back where they belonged,
back in their kingdom, the undisputed rulers of the bush.
Carr was born in Portuguese East Africa and schooled in
England before returning to Northern Rhodesia at 18, where he
worked in the Luangwa Valley as an elephant control ofcer
and later as a game warden. He famously persuaded Paramount
Chief Nsefu to create a game reserve on part of his tribal land,
with prots going to the local community, a progressive move
that has secured Carr visionary status in the Zambian safari world.
Zambias South Luangwa National Park has a reputation
for running the continents nest guided walking safaris, the

rst of which were set up by Carr in the 1960s. It is impossible


to avoid his inuence in the valley. Even the areas best
known walking-safari operator, Robin Pope, worked
for Carr before branching out on his own, and there are still
guides in the valley trained by Carr himself, brilliant men
such as Abraham Banda
and Shadrack Nkhoma,
educated locally before
rising through the
ranks. I have met few
guides in Africa more
knowledgeable or
personable than Banda
and Nkhoma.
Carr died in 1997
aged 84. His last home
was at Kapani, the nal
safari lodge he built in the
Luangwa Valley. His son
Adrian and one of his
two daughters, the artist
Pam Carr, still live there.
The mainstay of their
safari company remains
traditional guided walks
from (and between) four
simple bush camps that
operate in the dry months
between May and October.
Kapani, the base of
operations, is a much bigger
lodge and stays open
through whats called the
green season, when
thunderstorms electrify
the sky and the rain falls
in fat, warm blobs.
For years Norman Carr
Safaris trundled along
as a fairly low-key family business, respected for its heritage
and guiding; it was never particularly groundbreaking or, God
forbid, ash in any way. (Zambia doesnt do showy safari
camps the way South Africa does). But a recent injection of
cash from a new owner, Thierry Dalais, a Mauritian-born
businessman based in Johannesburg, has stirred things up a
bit. One result of this investment is Chinzombo lodge, designed
by the brilliant South African architects Silvio Rech and
Lesley Carstens, who also worked with Dalais on the astonishing
North Island in the Seychelles where he was a co-founder

Clockwise from top left: elephants crossing the Luangwa River out of the national park; giraffes beside an ox-bow lake during dry
season; Norman Carr with an exploration team; a portrait of Carr with orphaned lion cubs Big Boy and Little Boy. Opposite, a tree growing through
the bar at Chinzombo camp. Previous pages, a pod of hippos in the Luangwa River
111

THE GIGGLES OF WASHERWOMEN ARE CARRIED DOWNSTREAM ON A

BREEZE PUNGENT WITH THE SCENT OF POTATO BUSH AND SWEET JASMINE

(the island has since been sold to the Russian steel tycoon
Mikhail Prokhorov).
Chinzombo sits on the banks of the Luangwa River, snug
beneath a protective canopy of ebony, winter thorn and Natal
mahogany trees, on the site of an earlier camp (of the same
name) built by Norman Carr in the 1970s. Adrian Carr
remembers the original as simple with six tiny chalets. Its
successor is very different.
Rech talks about the pared-down, elemental nature of the
structures, the simplicity of the modernist steel frames and
the way elements of Norman Carrs traditional bush camps, such
as reed walls and thatching,
have been incorporated into
the six open-sided villas.
Most of the materials were
sourced in South Africa,
where they were loaded
onto trucks before being
assembled in Zambia,
atpack-style, by 75 village
workers. The pale decking
that gives the camp a
slightly spooky luminosity
come twilight is made
from reconstituted timber
thats both water- and
termite-resistant, and the
whole lot can be taken
down and recycled without
leaving a trace.
Chinzombo is a beautiful
and comfortable camp.
The beds are cooled by a
revolutionary, eco-friendly
air-conditioning system,
and there are carefully
chosen books and cutlery
and glasses, and big sofas
covered in loose, natural
fabrics. The dining area and
bar is hung with framed
photographs of Norman
Carr and smiling staff, past
and present, and one of
Adrian, then a chubby
boy of 12 or 13, walking
with Big Boy, his fathers pet lion. I remember those days as
golden, back in Zambia from boarding school to be with dad,
who I adored, he says now. The lions didnt seem to be
anything out of the ordinary.
Norman carr described the Luangwa River Valley as game
paradise for its great herds of puku, impala, waterbuck and kudu,
for its leopard and lion and crocodiles stretched out motionless
on sandbanks in the heat of the day, and bloats of hippos
crowded into deep channels in the middle of the river. His son

praises its massive diversity; all the way through the chain to the
elephants, it is rich and full of life.
The combination of such a wealth of wildlife and relative
remoteness brought great sadness to the valley in the 1970s
and 1980s when commercial poachers moved in to exploit an
increased demand for ivory in Asia. By the early 1990s, when
the poaching had passed its peak, around 90 per cent of the
areas elephants had been slaughtered, along with all of the
rhinos. During this dark time, still talked about by everyone in
the valley, a couple of American environmentalists, Mark and
Delia Owens, raised a private army of scouts to tackle the
situation head-on, before
leaving Zambia under a
cloud of suspicion over
the death of a poacher,
recorded in an ABC
documentary. The couples
gung-ho account of their
adventures, The Eye of the
Elephant, is stuffed with
urgent tales of corruption,
informants, turncoats and
weapons shipments.
The use of lethal
force is a fact of life, and
death, in wildlife law
enforcement, says Adrian
Carr succinctly when I
ask him about the Owens,
whom he knew. The
poachers are armed and
therefore the policers must
be armed, and either side
will shoot rst. The morality
of that is not debatable: it is
sadly the only way. People
like myself in the safari
industry did not have a
problem with the Owens
use of lethal force per se,
but with them operating
outside the accepted
rules of engagement.
Plus, he adds, they
were arseholes.
Despite a recent resurgence of illegal ivory trading throughout
Africa, I am told everything is under control in the valley.
Certainly, it is difcult to imagine a place more peaceful or
well-stocked with elephants, particularly around the river and its
ox-bow lakes and lagoons.
Under a mackerel sky one evening, Abraham Banda and I
watched a great herd of elephant stack up on the northern
banks of the Luangwa River. Below us, shermen cast their nal
nets of the day from dugout canoes stationed between pods of
snorting hippos, and the giggles of washerwomen carried

Above, the seating area at Chinzombo. Opposite, a pair of zebra near the camp. Previous pages, the chef cooks breakfast at sunrise beside the
dining area at Chinzombo, with the national park across the river in the background
114

THE LUANGWA RIVER VALLEY IS GAME PARADISE. ALL THE WAY


THROUGH THE CHAIN, IT IS RICH AND FULL OF LIFE

WHEN THE NOISE OF HUMANS SUBSIDES THE ELEPHANTS CROSS


THE RIVER TO THE MANGO TREES WHERE THEY FEED ALL NIGHT

MAP: HEATHER GATLEY

downstream on a high breeze pungent with the earthy scent of


potato bush and sweet wild jasmine.
The elephants are waiting for the noise of humans to
subside, said Banda. Then they will cross the river to the other
side, outside the park where the villages are. There are plenty
of mango trees there and they will feed all night.
Do they hassle the villagers?
Sometimes, but what can you do? They dont want any trouble,
just some fruit, and we all have to learn to live with each other.
As dusk gave way to night, the elephants started to cross the
river slowly, great grey ghosts, like ickering silent-movie stars,
swaying gently into the enveloping darkness.
The next day I left the ease and comfort of Chinzombo and its
enchanting river valley and headed north to Luwi Bush Camp,
deeper into the park where it is drier, harsher and more remote,
away from the villagers and shermen and other safari camps.
Chinzombo may be the shiny new face of Norman Carr
Safaris, but this is undoubtedly where its heart lies. Luwi, named
after a nearby river, was built by Norman and Adrian Carr in
the 1980s. It has four simple chalets of thatch and reed, rope and
twisted mopane branches. Showers are under the stars and
lighting is solar (a recent upgrade from oil lamps). Meals are
served in the shade of a tree or reside, overlooking a plain.
The camp manager was away so Shadrack (Shaddy) Nkhoma
drove up from Chinzombo to join me. I got the impression he
didnt need much persuasion; he used to manage Carrs Nsolo
Bush Camp, about 10km down river, and this is his territory.
You want a lion? he said. No problem. Lets get one.
So we set off on foot with an armed ranger, tracking the
dry bed of the Luwi River until we saw, in the distance, two
lionesses basking on the riverbank. We approached very slowly,
Shaddy checking the wind direction constantly, reading the
situation instinctively. One of the lions saw us and shot into the
undergrowth; her companion bounded up the riverbank but
settled on her haunches to watch. We moved closer. Half an hour
later, once we had caught our breath and taken our photographs,
we left the lions in peace and headed back to camp.
That night Shaddys eyes shone bright in the relight as he
told me about Rice Time Tembo. He was a crack-shot ranger
whose skills were honed culling elephants in the 1960s, in the
days when it was considered necessary to keep their numbers
down, and who held a particular disdain for lions, which he
preferred to shout at than waste a bullet on. Once, while out
walking with Kenneth Kaunda (known as KK, Zambias rst
president), Tembo killed a charging bull elephant with a single
bullet and was rewarded with a 375-calibre rie.
The Luangwa River Valley overows with such stories and
characters, kept alive around campres and retold today around
the elegant dining table at Chinzombo. A portrait of Tembo
hangs near the kitchen where his grandson, the proud owner of
that 375-calibre rie, now works.
By all accounts, Norman Carr didnt care for fancy things
and I have no idea what he would have made of Chinzombos
nery and measured elegance. But I am sure he would have
felt entirely at ease, surrounded by so many old friends
chefs, trackers, guides and night-watchmen together with
their children and grandchildren.

Opposite, elephants in South Luangwa National Park

GETTING THERE

Expert Africa
(+44 20 8232
9777; www.expert
africa.com) offers
a seven-day trip
to South Luangwa
National Park in
Zambia, staying at
Chinzombo and
two walking camps,

Luwi and Nsolo,


from 3,221 per
person based on
two people sharing,
including ights
from London via
Johannesburg
with South African
Airways, transfers,
meals, activities

and most drinks.


Add two nights at
Victoria Falls staying
at Tongabezi for
977, including
transfers, meals,
most drinks and
some activities such
as a visit to the falls
and river cruises.

GO OUT ON A HIGH
Victoria Falls is a natural post-safari stop-off

On the Zambezi
River, straddling
the border
between Zambia
and Zimbabwe,
the worlds largest
stretch of falling
water is often cited
as one of the Seven Natural
Wonders. Most tour operators
include Victoria Falls on
Zambian safari itineraries,
and rightly so. As a base for
exploration, I am still a great
fan of the old colonial Victoria
Falls Hotel in Zimbabwe, which
always manages to stand
aloof from the political crises
around it, but if Im going to
stay in Zambia, then Tongabezi
(www.tongabezi.com) is the
place for me. The lodge opened
23 years ago, so its not a
ash-in-the-pan upstart. It has
all the hallmarks of a hotel
happily entrenched in its

environment,
maintained and
much-improved
over the years yet
still utterly truthful
to its origins as
a slightly quirky,
fantastically
comfortable place to be. Its
about 15km upstream from the
falls and right on the Zambezi,
my favourite river in Africa.
The owners, Ben and Vanessa
Parker, have followed a policy of
empowering the local population,
so it is peopled with talented
Zambians rather than ighty
expats. Theres a choice of
riverfront cottages or houses, all
with their own surprises. Its sister
property, tiny Sindabezi Island,
a few kilometres downstream,
has ve open-sided chalets
with claw-foot baths. A night or
two in both places is my idea
of heaven. PETER BROWNE
117

Out of this world

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In Britain

120 Cond Nast Traveller January 2014

Clockwise from this picture:


Chesters city walls, which
date from Roman times;
shopping medieval-style
on The Rows; The Albion
Inn; furniture at design
store Arbol House; the bar
at the Abode hotel; mugs at
Arbol House. Opposite,
mural in the secret garden
at Oddfellows hotel

THIS MONTH

Chester

AN INSIDERS GUIDE

As the sharpest urban foxes and country chicks know only too well, this rumbustious Cheshire
racing town is a dead cert for a wild weekend. By Rob Crossan Photographs by Matthew Buck

esidents will tell you that its legal for a citizen of Chester
to shoot a Welshman with a bow and arrow if theyre found
within the city walls after nightfall. This Tudor bylaw has, of
course, been long repealed but the tale tells you something
about the border city which, despite its delicate and genial faade,
projects a sturdy masculinity. Indeed, the citys current most famous
export is a certain Mr Daniel Craig.
There is an endearing mixture of architecture - Roman, Tudor,
Georgian and Victorian - and an amphitheatre, but the real joy
of Chester is the jumble of cobbled back streets. Meander
along the seemingly endless double-deckered arcades, known
as the Rows (a still-functioning medieval version of the
shopping mall), and drop into one of the many beguiling,
heavy-beamed pubs.
As bets a city close to the wilds of the North Wales
coast and only 25 miles from Liverpool in the other
direction, theres a mash-up of accents and cultures here.
Youre as likely to mingle with at-capped landed gentry
from the Cheshire Plains, making a day of it to stock
up on Bolly and Barbour, as you are with sheepskincoated race-goers or fashion and PR matriarchs
from Manchester gossiping over cocktails served
by bed-headed mixologists. The rural denizens
and the urban sophisticates t together here
in something approaching perfect balance.

In Britain
GRANDE DAME
WHERE The Chester Grosvenor, a
TO STAY colossal Victorian pile with
a 28,000-piece crystal
chandelier in the lobby, has the kind
of understated clubbable formality that
would have pleased Evelyn Waugh as
much as it delights the present-day
clientele of business-lunching locals,
itinerant actors, rock stars and authors
touring the region. The corridors are lined
with satirical 19th-century cartoons from
the personal collection of the owner,
the Duke of Westminster; the Edwardianstyle rooms come with oor-creakinglyheavy mahogany dressers and Rococo
chocolates. The main restaurant has kept
a Michelin star for 24 consecutive years
and current head chef Simon Radley
creates bygone haute classics (chicken
blanquette, saddle of deer), accompanied
by a vast wine list and service that gleams
and purrs like a vintage Aston Martin.
Eastgate (+44 1244 324024; www.chester
grosvenor.com). Doubles from 230

FUNKY BOUTIQUE WITH


A FEW SURPRISES
Like a Ralph Steadman cartoon, the
supremely eccentric Oddfellows dazzles
and intrigues in equal measure. Behind its
trad Georgian frontage, vintage typewriters
line the reception walls to the Tea
Room, where a laid-up table for two is
suspended upside down from the ceiling.
Its no surprise to learn that the hotel is
part-owned by a hip interior-design outt,
Lister Carter. If the self-conscious kitsch
of the public areas feels a little too
much then the bedrooms split-level with
free-standing baths and lm directors
chairs are more reassuring, as is the
superb range of ales at the bar (including
local-brewed Eastgate Bitter) and the
garrulous crowd of local creative types
supping them. 20 Lower Bridge Street
(+44 1244 895700; www.oddfellowschester.
com). Doubles from 162

MODERN COMFORT WITH


ROOM TO SPARE
A sleek new glass-fronted affair on the
site of the old police station with views
over the racecourse and castle, the ABode
Chester has rooms painted in yellow and
duck-egg-blue, with double-ended tubs
and, in the case of the Fabulous suites,
gargantuan wraparound balconies with
sun loungers. They were covered with ice
and snow on my visit, but you have to
admire the optimism. The top-oor
122 Cond Nast Traveller January 2014

restaurant (part of the Michael Caines


empire) buzzes with grinning gourmands,
glammed-up weekenders and visiting
honeymooners, and challenges the North
Wests passion for carbs and pies with
rened dishes including butternut-squash
risotto and barbecued mackerel llet.
Grosvenor Road (+44 1244 347000; www.
abodechester.co.uk). Doubles from 109

WHERE
TO DRINK

A PUB FOR
ALL SEASONS

Tucked into a side


street just by the
Roman amphitheatre, The Albion Inn
looks as though it hasnt changed since
Asquith was Prime Minister. Heavy
ock wallpaper, posters for Hovis
and Woodbines, a quip-touting, real-alequafng clientele and a pleasingly
old-school menu (gammon and pease
pudding; lambs liver, bacon and onions)
create a down-to-earth atmosphere

where Wi-Fi and wasabi nuts are, wonderfully, unknown quantities. Park Street (+44
1244 340345; www.albioninnchester.co.uk)

COFFEE WITH VINTAGE QUIRKS


The sandstone walls of Lombard House
conceal an eclectic collection of Formica
tables and a glass-fronted cake display that
looks like it was bought from the Grace
Brothers. Friendly staff serve whopping
great bacon doorstep toasties and topnotch pies from the Pie Minister company.
The deli shelves are lled with olives,
tapenades, pesto and bags of surprisingly
delicious popcorn tea made by Tea Pigs.
Foregate Street (+44 1244 340282)

ALES AND AMPLIFIERS


Set in a cavernous former loading bay
for boats (a canal basin lies directly
underneath), Telfords Warehouse has
been a hub for live music since the 1980s
and now has a beer menu as diverse as

Clockwise from far left: bread at Joseph


Benjamin; the Tea Room at Oddfellows,
and a retro pillow; the bar at ABode;
vintage typewriters at Oddfellows, and in
the main dining room; Shetland mackerel
with horseradish potatoes and broccoli at
Joseph Benjamin; the Porta tapas bar

evening rush hour. The Racecourse


(+44 1244 304611; www.restaurant1539.
co.uk). About 60 for two

WITH A SPANISH ACCENT


Brothers Joe and Benjamin Wright
opened Joseph Benjamin two years
ago, creating an instant hit with its
bare-brick, vinyl-boothed interior and
a menu that connects Iberian lightness
with northern-English gutsiness to
pleasingly unctuous effect. Guinea fowl
and pheasant terrine followed by
pork faggots with mustard mash are
rm favourites with the designerdenim-clad, 30-something crowd. The
brothers have just opened a tapas bar,
Porta, next door. 124 Northgate Street
(+44 1244 344295; www.josephbenjamin.
co.uk). About 55 for two

A TASTE OF FRANCE

the performance roster. Amid the


Heath Robinson-style 19th-century
machinery on sawdust-covered oors,
ale pumps serve up local brews including
the impeccably toothsome Weetwood
Cheshire Cat, Thwaites Original and
dozens of lambic, Weiss and Trappist
ales from Belgium and Germany.
Towers Wharf (+44 1244 390090; www.
telfordswarehousechester.com)

WHERE
TO EAT

GREAT NORTHERN
GASTROPUB

In a Palladian-style villa
overlooking the racecourse,
The Architect has a snug interior with
roaring res, framed cricket-score sheets
from the WG Grace era and earnest young
Kindle readers who you suspect are
pouring over Rimbaud rather than Rowling
in the overstuffed armchairs. The menu is
heavy on meaty comfort food, including a
trio of pork and steak and kidney suet

pudding, although locals will tell you the


veggie platter (Cheshire Blue fritters,
red-pepper panna cotta and tandoorimarinated halloumi) is the star of the
show. And theyre right. 54 Nicholas Street
(+44 1244 353070; www.brunningandprice.
co.uk). About 45 for two

IF YOU COULD EAT A HORSE


Named after the year that horse racing
started in Chester (making the racecourse
the oldest in the country), Restaurant
1539 has a gallery-style dining area with
oor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the
nishing post. Check the website for
race-day specials, when a table here is the
hottest ticket in town. But this is an
effortlessly rafsh room any day of the
week, and the la carte menu runs the
full gauntlet of British classics from
butter-poached turbot to lamb from the
Conwy Valley. Ditch the calorie counter
and stay for a lunch that ends around

Theres a charismatic, unfussy,


shabby-chic vibe to Chez Jules, whose
unpretentious rural French cooking
attracts a loyal young clientele. Grab
a spot by the large front window
overlooking Northgate Street perfect
for people-watching and order
goats cheese, fennel and beetroot salad
followed by chicken chasseur with button
mushrooms and tarragon. The prix-xe
menu at lunch is just under 12 for
two courses. 71 Northgate Street
(+44 1244 400014; www.chezjules.com).
Dinner about 45 for two

THE BEST
SHOPS

GRATE
EXPECTATIONS

For the past three


decades, Carole and
Anne Faulkner have supplied Cestrians
with an impressive array of (mostly)
British cheeses, which can be bought with
tailormade cheese boards or added to
ports, chutneys and olives to make an
epic hamper. Staff at The Cheese Shop
are fonts of knowledge and will select a
few ounces of various cheeses with some
biscuits to take to the cathedral gardens
on a sun-dappled afternoon youll be
joined by locals with the same idea.
116 Northgate Street (+44 1244 346240;

www.chestercheeseshop.co.uk)

In Britain

Clockwise from far left:


The Cheese Shop; Keely
Pearce and Richard Bolger
of Lily Vintage; miniatures
at Chester Whisky

WHAT
TO SEE

With jugglers, re eaters


and acrobats, rarely has the story of Noah
and other Bible tales been performed
with such bombast, and at such length.
The Chester Mystery Plays, performed
once every ve years since the 15th century,
used to last for six days. Now they are
broken up into more manageable slices,
and last July was the rst time these
bilious, wild plays were performed inside
Chester Cathedral. Its worth the price of
a ticket just to see how the Great Flood
is done without anyone getting too soggy.
Meanwhile, the October Chester Literature
Festival is fast gaining a reputation for
attracting big names to a variety of small
venues. www.chestermysteryplays.com;
www.chesterliteraturefestival.com

MATERIAL WORLD
Keely Pearce and Richard Bolger moved
here from London to open Lily Vintage,
stocking a wide range of secondhand and
vintage clothing from the 1920s onwards,
for men and women from World War
II military coats to reworked silk shirt
dresses. They also create original pieces
and if you have something specic in
mind, but cant nd it, they will happily
source it. 45 Bridge Street (+44 1244
324896; www.lilyvintage.com)

HOUSEHOLD NAME
Interiors boutique Arbol House has a
carefully curated range of contemporary
and retro homeware and (mainly industrial
or apothecary) furniture, including
feature lighting, glassware and ceramics,
candles and artwork theres something
here for every room in your house. Theres
a sister store, OVO Home, just around the
corner. 124 Northgate Street (+44 1244
329643; www.arbolhouse.com)

BIBLICAL PASSIONS
AND ERUDITE
AFTERNOONS

THE WALL AT THE


EDGE OF ENGLAND

SENSATIONAL SILVER
With its wood panelling, heavy red carpets,
and groomed, besuited staff who glide
around the store as if on rollerskates,
Lowe & Sons feels like a gentlemans
club. The antique gas lights illuminate an
exquisite array of Liberty spoons alongside
more contemporary jewellery and a
smattering of Moorcroft pottery. Theres
also a collection of antique cruet sets made
from Chester Silver increasingly rare
since the citys Assay Ofce closed more
than 50 years ago. 11 Bridge Street Row
(+44 1244 325850; www.loweschester.co.uk)

In his novel The Ambassadors, Henry


James wrote of Chester as the little
swollen city, half held in place by careful
civic hands and seems to have spent some
time wandering the City Walls, a two-mile
feat of Roman and medieval endeavour
that encircles the city centre. The King
Charles Tower, so named after Charles I
watched his army get routed here in 1645,
provides sweeping views over the silvery
waters of River Dee; from here the wall
undulates from soaring heights to barely
above pavement level, taking in the remains
of the Roman port where olives and
wine were shipped in. Take a photo of
the ligree Victorian Eastgate Clock its
the second most snapped in the country
after Big Ben. www.visitchester.com

INCREDIBLE MALTS
With in-store barrels from which to
pour your own bottle of house-blended
Chester Cross, Chester Whisky on the
Rows is an easygoing place which hosts
monthly tastings and stocks hard-to-nd
liqueurs, including Kings Ginger and
Friars Choice brandy. Many locals have
no idea this place exists. Lets hope it stays
that way: owner David Stirk probably
wont be as generous with the free samples
once word gets out. 59 Bridge Street Row
(+44 1244 347806; www.chesterwhisky.com)

124 Cond Nast Traveller January 2014

BEST FOR
KIDS

TALK TO THE
ANIMALS

The biggest of its kind


in the country, Chester
Zoo is one of the few places in the
UK where you can see fearsome
komodo dragons, as well as a very spooky
bat cave where the winged creatures
brush against your face as you walk
through. Take the monorail for great
views of the Chimpanzee Forest, lions,
jaguars and two elephant calves, both

newly arrived in 2013. Upton by Chester


(+44 1244 380280; www.chesterzoo.org)

DO THE LOCOMOTIVE
Watch out for trains when walking round
the gargantuan ower beds and mossy
medieval arches of Grosvenor Park: the
Park Miniature Railway now has a fully
electric Thomas the Tank Engine ride that
runs along the quarter of a mile track and
even has its own station and engine shed.
+44 7530 397079; www.gpmr.co.uk

The view fro m here

WORDS TO

You can arrive in a new country and speak the same language but will you really understand whats being said?

heres a languageinstruction course I turn


to quite often. Pimsleur,
its called, and I rst
used it in 2006 when preparing for
a trip to Japan. I am American, I
was taught to announce, somewhat
sheepishly, at the start of Lesson
One. Half an hour later, I was
being told Nihon go ga jozu desu
ne! which translates as Your
Japanese is so good!
It seemed a bit early in the
game to be receiving compliments,
but still I learned to recognise the
phrase, and to respond to it, saying
Thank you very much, but I am
not really skilled yet. This came
in handy as once I got to Tokyo,
every time I opened my mouth
I was clobbered with praise, even
if I was just saying something
simple like, Huh?
Pimsleur offers courses in
umpteen different languages, and
though I havent checked, Im
guessing that 30 minutes into its
French programme, youre not being told how great you are.
They specialise in teaching you what people actually say, mindful
that its going to vary from one country to the next. I know they
offer an English course for native Spanish speakers, but Im not
sure if its geared to UK English or what you hear in the USA.
The former would most certainly include, At the end of the

programme, one for business


travellers visiting the USA.
Lets start at the airport
news-stand, shall we? There youll
lay a magazine upon the counter
and be asked by the cashier,
Do you need some water to go
with that? This will be said as
if the two things should not
really be sold separately, as if in
order to properly read a copy of
US Weekly youll rst have to
rinse your eyes out with a $4
bottle of Evian.
This business of pushing more
stuff on you is called top selling,
and is one of those things that,
once you notice it, you cant stop
noticing it. At the airport in Baton
Rouge I ordered a coffee.
Do you need a pastry to go
with that? the young man behind
the counter asked.
I wasnt too shy to order the
coffee, I said, so what makes
you think Id hold back on a bear
claw if I wanted one?
The fellow shrugged. We have Danishes, too.
On second thoughts, I dont want anything. I told him. Then
I went a few doors down to Dunkin Donuts and said, I would
like nothing but coffee. Just coffee. Period.
The woman behind the counter crossed her syrupcoloured arms. No cup? Well of course I want a cup. No
milk or nothing?
This always happens when I try to make a point. And milk,
I told her. Coffee in a cup with some milk in it but nothing else.
Then, of course, my ight got delayed by two hours and I had
to go crawling back for some Munchkins. Do you need coffee or
a soda to go with that? asked the woman whod replaced the
one Id spoken to earlier.
Increasingly, at southern US airports, instead of a Goodbye
or Thank you, cashiers are apt to say, Have a blessed day. This
can make you feel like youve been sprayed against your will
with God cologne. Get it off me! I always want to say, Quick,
before I start wearing ties with short-sleeved shirts!
As a foreign business traveller, youll likely be met at your
destination by someone who will ask, So how was your ight?
This as if there are interesting variations, as if you might answer,
The live orchestra was a nice touch, or The rst half was great,
but then they let a baby take over the controls and it got all

The phrase Have a blessed


day makes you feel like
youve been sprayed against
your will with God cologne
day Turn on British TV or follow anyone named Ian for more
than a few minutes and youre guaranteed to hear it said. In
France I feel the most often used word is connerie, which
means bullshit, and in America its hands down awesome,
which has replaced incredible, good, and even just OK. Pretty
much everything that isnt terrible is awesome in America now.
Pimsleur has made me so aware of the phrases I hear most
often over the course of an average day that Ive started jotting
them down in hopes of putting together my own language
126 Cond Nast Traveller January 2014

PHOTOGRAPH: JOSEPH CULTICE/CORBIS OUTLINE

DAVID SEDARIS

THE WISE

The author of Me Talk Pretty One Day pulls his hair out over the business of communication in the USA
bumpy. In fact, there are only two kinds of ights: ones in which
you die and ones in which you do not.
Next youll meet the desk clerk at your hotel, a woman most
likely, in her mid to late thirties. She wont know if youve driven
to this city or own and after taking your credit card will ask,
So how was your trip in?
Theres really no answer but Fine. I mean, there is, but Im
guessing she wont want to hear it.
Then the bellboy will grab your suitcase, saying, So where are
you coming in from today? Like everyone else at the hotel, he
doesnt really listen to your answer. His words are just a hook

Of course I dont object


to these questions because
theyre personal, but
because theyre not
to hang a tip on. You could say you were from a town 10
miles down the road, or you could say you were from another
galaxy. Either way, you get the same response: Youre a long
way from home, arent you?
Of course I dont object to these questions because theyre
personal, but because theyre not. Instead of asking how my trip
in was, why not ask I dont know if I have a godson, I said
to a desk clerk not long ago.
She took off her glasses and rubbed the bridge of her nose.
OK, do you have a godson?
I do, I said. Hes four years old and is named Tommy. How
about you? Do you have any godchildren?
No, the woman told me. I have not had that pleasure.
She smiled like someone whod learned to do so in a book,
and I realised that if I wanted to make contact I needed to dig
a little deeper. He has cancer, I said.
The desk clerk put her hand over her heart. Oh, poor thing!
Thats OK, I sighed, Im sure that within a year or two
someone else will ask me to be a godfather.
It wasnt true that Tommy had cancer. I just wanted to get a
rise out of her, to feel some kind of pulse. I knew that the young

woman had a life. Shed gone to college somewhere. She had


friends. I didnt need a 15-minute conversation, but just some
human interaction. It can be had, and easily: a gesture, a joke,
something that says, I live in this world, too. I think of it as
a switch that turns someone from a profession to a person,
and it works both ways. Im not just a vehicle for my wallet,
I sometimes want to scream.
Go to a restaurant anywhere in the United States and three
minutes after your food is delivered, your server will return to
the table asking, Hows that South-eastern Lard Pocket? Once,
in Kansas City, at a place called Tomfooleries, this was amended
to, Hows that South-eastern Lard Pocket tasting for you?
As if it had the tongue instead of me.
Mmmm, I said, my mouth full the way it always is when the
server returns.
Awesome, I was told. I hope youre saving some room for
dessert. This said with the chuckle that means, Wouldnt it be
funny if what I just said was funny?
The following morning youll stumble to the hotel breakfast
room and tell the hostess that there is only one in your party.
Shell then pick up a menu and lead you to your table, saying
And how is your day going so far?
You mean the last 15 minutes? youll ask. OK, I guess. And
shell say, Awesome.
If, like me, you never turn on the TV in your room, this might
be the rst time since the previous night that youll have heard
this word. That doesnt make it refreshing. Rather, its like being
in Alaska and getting bitten by the rst black y of the day. I am
going to be bleeding by sunset, youll think.
After checking out of the hotel, its back to the airport where
youll buy a paper and be asked Do you need a bottle of water
to go with that? With this, you will have come full circle. There
are nuances, of course. Sometimes, after you turn down the
water, the news-stand cashier will come back with, How about
some gum then, or a candy bar? If, in responding to any of
these questions, you betray an accent you might also be asked
what country youre from. This will be followed by, So what do
you think of the United States?
Its awesome, youll answer, uent now, and ready
to do business.

Around the world with

Sir Ranulph Fiennes


The greatest living explorer is most famous for his polar expeditions, but he has also tackled Everest
and the Arabian Desert and, at the age of 59, ran seven marathons on seven continents in seven days
Where have you just got
back from?
Antarctica, where we were trying to do
the rst winter crossing. At one point
it was about 33C, and I had to take my
mitts off to tighten the bindings on my
ski. I had them off for about 15 minutes,
and I looked down and one hand was
completely white and dead. I had to ski
with it in my crotch to keep it warm. Our
doctor was brilliant, got rid of all the
liquid and that probably saved it. After
that, I was going to be pretty useless, so
I had to leave the team out there.

Where in the world have


you felt happiest?

Dhofar in Oman. My late wife Ginny was


very much part of it, she spoke Arabic,
and each time we went back, we felt we
were getting closer to nding the lost
city of Ubar. It took 26 years, because
we only had a short season when the
Sultan would give us a permit to
search. When we did nd the city, it
was quite sad, because we had no
excuse to go back.

Anthisan.

Describe a memory from


a childhood holiday
When I was 11, my mother took my three
elder sisters to the Kruger National Park.
I was too young, so I was farmed out to
an aunt who took me to a fairly remote
beach near Hermanus. We had a picnic on
the sand, and I remember quite clearly,
even though it was all those years ago,
the father of a family near us taking his
surfboard out. A while later, there was
a hue and cry and they brought his body

I lost my heart in...

The Najd desert in Saudi Arabia, when we


were looking for the lost city. Everyone was
friendly, and as long as you didnt tread
on one of the communists explosives,
everything was perfect. There were leopards
and mountain lions and gazelles

Whos the most interesting


person you have met on
your travels?

Probably Dr Dmitry Shparo, who is an


advanced mathematics teacher in Moscow.
He led the rst crossing from Asia to the
Pole, as well as the Bering Strait. Hes
a really great guy, a strong character,
and when I wanted to do a Siberian
expedition he was just wonderful.

The hotel I like


best is Claridge's, Which foreign phrase do
use most often?
but if Im in London you
I suppose OK, which is American.
now I sleep in my car Most regrettable holiday

Chester. The historical Roman side of


it is right there, you dont have to go to
Rome, and the modern side of it the
restaurants and the lifestyle is fantastic.

Which is your favourite


city, and why?

Cape Town, partly because I spent


my rst 12 years growing up there and
partly because the seafront is even
better than Sydneys. Its full of life, the
people are charming and, thanks to
Nelson Mandela and co, you wouldnt
think apartheid had ever existed. Its
a wonderful multicoloured mix.

And a holiday disaster?

In 1968 I married Ginny, and we thought


wed go to Eastern Europe in our opentop MGB. I had a very good friend from
school who came on the honeymoon, too.
This was obviously not approved of, so
after about a week or so he caught a train
back and we carried on. Eastern Europe
at the time did not want tourists. Even
128 Cond Nast Traveller January 2014

What do you pack rst?

slot, in between Porsches and Ferraris. You


have to arrive after 10pm, and you must
be gone by 8am or you get a dirty great
ne. Its a very, very posh area, so youre
not going to get beaten up or anything,
and you save yourself 260 a night.

souvenir?

back to the beach. Right in front of us,


they tried to bring him back to life. He
was the rst person I ever saw dead.

Tell us about a great little


place you know
Its in my favourite English city, Chester,
and its a restaurant called Piccolino,
which is an Italian opposite the Roman
amphitheatre. The waiters have wonderful
Peter Sellers accents, and the food is the
best anywhere in the world.

What is the smartest hotel


youve ever stayed in?

The Lanesborough in London. I went


with my wife, Louise, to give a lecture
and they put us up after the dinner. But
the one I like best is Claridges. When
I worked for Armand Hammer [the US
businessman and philanthropist] as a
gopher for about 10 years, he had rooms
15 and 16 and I got to know the characters
there very well. If Im in London now, I
sleep in my car in a posh residents parking

The Bilharzia parasite, which I brought


back from Egypt when we were trying to
do the rst hovercraft journey up the Nile,
in the 1960s. I didnt know I had it though.
Even a bit of spray from your paddle can
let it settle on you. It can be three or four
years before you know its in your stomach.

How do you relax?

By doing something. I really dont relax


if theres not a target to work towards,
although you do have to take holidays.
The most relaxing one I can remember
was in Zimbabwe, where a couple
called Andrew and Wendy Conolly have
a lion rescue centre. Thirty years ago,
Andrew had one arm chewed off by
a lion, and after that he became partial
to orphaned cubs whose mothers had
been killed by poachers.
Sir Ranulph Fiennes was speaking to
Francesca Babb. His book Cold (Simon
& Schuster, 20) is out now

PHOTOGRAPH: CAMERA PRESS/REDUX

Name a place that most


lived up to the hype

in a place like Budapest, which is lovely,


they wouldnt speak to us, because the
secret police would jump on them. We
were out there for a whole month. Very
interesting, but not a very good idea.

A travellers tales

unforgettable stays

Plan a stay at one of Cond Nast Johansens properties and youre guaranteed a trip to remember

T R AVELLER AD VERT ISEM EN T FEAT U RE

nSumahan On The Water,

sChewton Glen, Hampshire, England

Istanbul, Turkey

+44 (0)1425 275 341,


condenastjohansens.com/chewtonglen
Step away from the stresses of life and cleanse
your mind and body with a spa retreat on the
edge of the New Forest that is designed to
help busy people unwind, restore well-being,
regain perspective and lose a little weight.
Quote 'CNJ 14' when booking a spa break or
leisure getaway in January to March and enjoy
a complimentary room upgrade. Prices from
272.50 pppn.

+90 216 422 8000,


condenastjohansens.com/sumahan
A restored 19th-century Ottoman distillery,
Sumahan On The Water, is now one of the
nest boutique hotels located on the edge of the
Bosphorus, where East meets West. 24 sea-view
rooms, two restaurants and a Turkish hammam
complete the picture.

oVilla Mara Cristina,


Guanajuato, Mxico

Hertfordshire, England

+52 473 731 2182,


condenastjohansens.com/villamariacristina
Located in one of the most picturesque cities
in Mxico, this peaceful small boutique hotel
has 13 spacious suites adorned with French
furniture, marble bathrooms and large windows
that wonderfully complement the mansions
architectural style. This is elegant intimacy
at its best.

+44 (0)1727 864 477,


condenastjohansens.com/sopwellhouse
Nestling in the Hertfordshire countryside, the
former home of Lord Mountbatten offers
sumptuous rooms, suites and separate apartments,
a brasserie and ne dining restaurant. The perfect
retreat just outside London, this is an ideal preor post-Christmas getaway with stunning spa
facilities and beautiful surroundings.

pOne&Only Reethi Rah,

North Mal Atoll, Maldives*


+960 664 8800,
condenastjohansens.com/
oneandonlyreethirah
Surrounded by the crystal blue Indian Ocean, this
superb all-villa Maldivian resort offers an unrivalled
level of style, choice and personalised exploration.
Sleek and spectacular with unprecedented privacy,
One&Only Reethi Rah provides extraordinary
journeys for the soul.

qAlentejo Marmris Hotel & Spa,

uWest Bay Club, Turks &


Caicos Islands, Caribbean

rLas Alamandas Resort, Jalisco, Mxico


+52 322 285 5500,
condenastjohansens.com/alamandas
Mxicos ultimate beach resort, Las Alamandas Resort
is a luxurious hideaway offering endless experiences and
spacious suites. Enjoy farm-to-table gourmet dining, four
beaches, spa treatments and activities for everyone. The
incomparable setting is a 1,500-acre, unspoilt private
tropical paradise. Rates from US$260.

Alentejo, Portugal
+351 268 887 010,
condenastjohansens.com/alentejomarmoris
A one-of-a-kind museum of marble, Alentejo
Marmris Hotel & Spa is located within Portugals
marble capital of the world, Vila Viosa, looking
out to breathtaking natural landscapes. All 45
rooms and suites have individually designed
marble bathrooms. The restaurant and Stone
Spa are must visits.

tSopwell House,

+1 649 946 8550,


condenastjohansens.com/thewestbayclub
Located on the most beautiful and widest stretch
of Grace Bay beach, this 46-suite hotel boasts
breathtaking views. Amenities include a tranquil
spa, tness centre and innity pool. Breakfast
and non-motorised water sport activities are
complimentary.

vHtel le Crystal,
Montral, Canada

reader offer
Quote Johansens/Traveller Promotion
when making your reservation and you
will receive a complimentary bottle of
Champagne and room upgrade on all
bookings. Terms and conditions apply. *Not eligible for
Reader Offer

+1 877 861 5550,


condenastjohansens.com/hotellecrystal
Our 131 suites offer the intimacy of a private
residence with the personalised service of a
ve-star hotel. Centrally located, they offer allinclusive urban destination services, beautiful
terraces, spa facilities, an indoor pool and
outdoor jacuzzi, not to mention a state-ofthe-art business centre and much more...

See more amazing properties overleaf...

T R AVELLER AD VERT ISEM EN T FEAT U RE

nm

no

nn

nq

np

nmThe Baker House 1650, New York, USA

nnThe Arch London, England

noCoworth Park, Berkshire, England

+1 631 324 4081,


condenastjohansens.com/bakerhouse
Regarded the most exclusive bed and breakfast in the
Hamptons, The Baker House 1650 has large, beautifully
furnished bedrooms with wood-burning replaces and
state-of-the-art amenities. The blissfully inviting Baker
Spa and recently renovated Baker Carriage House
make it a purely indulgent retreat.

+44 (0)20 7724 4700,


condenastjohansens.com/thearchlondon
Opened in 2010, The Arch London is fast making a
name for itself as an exclusive hangout for the superrich and famous. This boutique design hotel is a true
hidden gem in the heart of Britains most vibrant
metropolis. Among the hotel's impressive catalogue
of recent clientele are British royalty and
international A-list celebrities.

+44 (0)1344 876 600,


condenastjohansens.com/coworthpark
Dorchester Collections luxury country house hotel and
spa. Sumptuous rooms and suites, exquisite restaurants
and a luxury eco-spa with indoor pool and a menu of
treatments to relax and invigorate. Relax and unwind
Sunday to Thursday from 258 prpn including
breakfast and VAT. Quote 'CNT13' when booking.

npConrad Koh Samui, Surat thani,


Thailand
+66 77 915 888,
condenastjohansens.com/conradkohsamui
Conrad Koh Samui, a luxury all-pool villa resort
situated on a scenic hillside, offers the most sensational
views of the Gulf of Thailand with every villa
looking out to astonishing sunsets. Fine dining and
complimentary boat trips to nearby islands await.

reader offer
Quote Johansens/Traveller Promotion
when making your reservation and you
will receive a complimentary bottle
of Champagne and room upgrade
on all bookings.
Terms and conditions apply. *Not eligible for Reader Offer

nqBarcel Montecastillo Golf &


Sports Resort
+34 956 151 200, Cdiz, Spain
condenastjohansens.com/barcelomontecastillo
Renovated in March 2013, Barcel Montecastillo
offers free and unlimited green-fees at the 18-hole golf
course, designed by Jack Nicklaus. The hotel also offers
a renovated spa with a hydrotherapy circuit, saunas,
hydro-massage bathtub, treatment rooms and a gym.

The experts

This month Family Food Books Health

Gadgets Advice

EDITED BY ISSY VON SIMSON

WHAT YOU WANT

The best ski guide


in the Trois Valles

WHO YOU NEED

PHOTOGRAPH: PHILIPPE REBREYEND

Florent Chretien of
the Elite Ski Team

Theres a north-facing couloir in Courchevel, steep and craggy and


grizzly to reach. Its a route so off-putting that until the mid 1990s
no one had even attempted it. Now locals call it the Chretient
after Florent Chretien and his brother, who took on the challenge
without blinking. If you want a guide who knows every inch of the
Trois Valles, who can nd fresh powder when everyone around
you is knee-deep in slush, who can beat the lift queues, show you
all his off-piste secrets and has been known in the most extreme
circumstances to carry the girls skis, then Chretien is the ticket.
As a Rossignol pro rider, he has been own all over the world to
take on the most extreme downhill, from night-skiing sessions in
Hokkaido, Japan to snowboarding from the 7,730-metre summit
of Gurla Mhandata in Tibet. He was also part of the rst free-ride
trip to Spitsbergen, just south of the North Pole. But for all that,
if youre a beginner, Chretien is endlessly patient. And if you are an
experienced skier, he will push you, critiquing your carving and
tightening up your technique. He also happens to be completely
charming to spend the day with, softly spoken and full of fascinating
tales. This being Courchevel, dont forget to ask about his Russian
clients, maybe the one who wanted to ski to lunch with his mistress
and then on afterwards for a vin chaud with his wife. Hell lower
his Cb mirrored sunglasses (he has countless pairs) and youll
get a ash of a blue-eyed wink before they go back on again.
(+33 6 10 90 76 78; www.eliteskiteam.com)

January 2014 Cond Nast Traveller 133

The experts... family


CHILDREN IN THE CITY

Edinburgh

With a fairytale castle, spooky catacombs, mind-blowing


museums, playgrounds aplenty and heaps of sweet shops, the
Scottish capital hits a high note for kids. By Clover Stroud

When youre tired of educational


outings, head to the Film House (www.
lmhousecinema.com) for a movie and
some old-fashioned nosh in the caf.
If youve got teens in tow, plug them
into a ick then slip out next door
to One Spa (www.one-spa.com) at The
Sheraton for a whirl in the rooftop

134 Cond Nast Traveller January 2014

For a slap of salt air, pile into a cab


to Cramond, a village just north-west
of the city with a 17th-century tower
house and quintessentially Scottish
whitewashed buildings (part of
Robert Louis Stevensons Kidnapped
is set here). Brave the causeway to
Cramond Island, a mile offshore,
but get your timing spot-on or youll
be stranded. Walk upstream from the
village, along the banks of the mighty
River Almond, so wide and green
it could almost be the Amazon, and
reward yourself with a pit stop at
Cramond Falls Caf (www.cramond
mill.co.uk) for the best brownies
and millionaires shortbread youll
eat north of the border.

Edinburghs biggest and best playground


is in The Meadows, with a water zone
and death slide. More centrally, in
Princes Street Gardens theres a railway
bridge with perspex sides, so children
can watch trains pass underneath with
a jaunty toot-toot from the driver. Send
your teenagers off for some exercise at
Transgression Park (www.transgression
park.com), which has areas for BMX,
skateboards and in-line skating, while
you whack on the glitter and learn to
decorate toys and picture frames with
the little ones at Kiss the Fish (www.
kisstheshstudios.com) in Stockbridge.
A trot up the volcanic peaks of Arthurs
Seat (which last erupted 350 million
years ago) is also obligatory.

Find magic at the Royal Botanic Garden


(www.rbge.org.uk) in Stockbridge.
The best-kept local secret is the fairy
woodland corner where youll nd little
doors and pixies hidden in the trees.
The glasshouses are also a good place
to warm up before embarking on a walk
along the Water of Leith to Dean Village.

Pick up a treat for Granny at Coco


Chocolate (www.cocochocolate.co.uk),
which also runs a cookery school for
children over 12 on the rst Saturday
of every month (where they can learn
how to make marbled chocolate).
And try a cupcake at Cuckoos Bakery
(www.cuckoosbakery.co.uk) on Dundas
Street, where a dozen different avours,
including strawberry cheesecake and
lemon meringue, are baked daily.

PHOTOGRAPHS: GETTY IMAGES; LAIF/CAMERA PRESS; RICK LEW

If your children are reluctant to go to


the Scottish National Gallery (www.
nationalgalleries.org), dare them to
nd the picture of the woman with the
chopped off-breast. If that fails, bribe
them with the promise of the locally
renowned Scone of the Day in the
National Portrait Gallery Caf. Probably
more thrilling than pictures of dead
people is the optical brilliance of the
Camera Obscura at Castlehill (www.
camera-obscura.co.uk), which has a ne
set of telescopes to spy across the city.
Theres a good display of holograms
and pinhole cameras to surprise blas
teenagers with; smaller children just
love the distorting mirrors outside the
building. Meanwhile the Museum of
Childhood (www.edinburghmuseums.
org.uk) uses wonderfully original displays
to exhibit toys and crafts of yesteryear.
Slightly older children might prefer The
Peoples Story Museum (same website)
in the old Canongate Tollbooth on the
Royal Mile (less stuffy than other such
institutions, it has a wartime kitchen and
a slightly terrifying former jail) as well
as a visit to the catacombs around Mary
Kings Close, which commemorate the
1645 plague. Or blow the minds of techie
teens with a visit to the 3D and 4D
interactive exhibits at Dynamic Earth
(www.dynamicearth.co.uk), where they
can learn about everything from the
Big Bang to climate change, via some
impressive Scottish glaciers.

hydropool and scented hammam. Youll


be back in time for the credits. And
remind your children why they should
keep up their violin lessons by heading
out for a night of spine-tingling Scottish
folk music at Sandy Bells pub (+44
131 225 2751) or The Royal Oak (www.
royal-oak-folk.com).

clothes and magic tricks, check out the


famous joke shop Aha Ha Ha (www.
costumehaha.com) off Grassmarket in
the Old Town, which has an oversized
pair of Groucho glasses above the door.

Real Foods (www.realfoods.co.uk)


on Broughton Street is an Edinburgh
institution, selling everything the
hysterical mother could want in the
way of gluten-free, wheat-free, sugarfree, organic, vegan, fair-trade food.
If that sounds a bit pleasure-free, stop
for an eccentric breakfast at Artisan
Roast (www.artisanroast.co.uk) where
theres delicious hot chocolate and
grown-up coffee to get your day going.
Children will love the quirky waiters
with their little round specs, handlebar

The most discerning babies and toddlers in


Edinburgh will only wear rompers from
Tinker & Belle (www.tinkerandbelle.co.uk),
made from Liberty fabrics by designer
Gabrielle Murray at her lovely studio in
the New Town. For a dazzling selection of
tiny shoes, try one of the three Maddie
and Marks (www.maddieandmarks.co.uk)
stores throughout the city. After pausing in
St Andrew Square for a jaw-dropping view
of the Firth of Forth, head for Harvey
Nichols, where the Step2wo childrenswear
concession (www.step2wo.com) stocks
designer labels such as Paul Smith and
Stella McCartney, as well as kooky little
numbers from Hucklebones, Thats Not
Fair and I Love Gorgeous. For dressing-up

Play at being lairds and book yourselves into


Prestoneld House (www.prestoneld.com;
doubles from 221), a baroque mansion
ve minutes by taxi from the city centre.
Highland cattle and a clutch of peacocks
wander around the 20-acre grounds, where
your children can let off steam. There are
enough drawing rooms decorated with
a gloriously esoteric collection of antique
antlers, crowns and tapestries to really
spread out, so you dont have to spend
your entire time telling your brood to shush
around other guests. Purple up-lit trees
and oversize Roman urns create a thrilling
Alice in Wonderland atmosphere, and
the maximalist interior means you can be
more relaxed about your childrens grubby
hands than you might be in a more muted

Clockwise from above: pipers at Edinburgh


Castle; a sh restaurant in Leith; the Royal
Botanic Garden; a view of the castle; a
kilted local teen; a room at The Balmoral

moustaches and tweed plus fours.


Urban Angel (www.urban-angel.co.uk)
on Forth Street is the best place to take
teens for a slap-up brunch. For proper
Italian pizza, try La Favorita (www.
vittoriagroup.co.uk) on Leith Walk. The
upstairs caf at renowned deli Valvona
& Crolla (www.valvonacrolla.co.uk) is
perfect for a relaxed lunch. Teenagers
might prefer the buzz of Bar Roma
(www.bar-roma.co.uk) in the West End,
or LEscargot Blanc (www.lescargotbleu.
co.uk) on Queensferry Street: with its
chequered tablecloths and caf posters,
its like the sort of French bistro you
dream of but never actually nd.

environment. If you prefer being in the


heart of the city, try The Balmoral (www.
thebalmoralhotel.com; doubles from 222),
allcream teas and kilt-clad doormen, and
very child-friendly, in the way that grandes
dames tend to be. It also happens to be
where JK Rowling wrote the nal chapters
of Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows.

The perennial thrill of sleeping on a train


certainly isnt lost on youngsters. If youre
travelling from London, pack the little ones
into a double bunk on the Caledonian
Sleeper (www.scotrail.co.uk), which leaves
Euston every night apart from Saturday.
Under-ves go free, and its half price for
children aged ve to 15. Take The Railway
Children for bedtime reading.

The experts... feasting


RICE PUDDING
By Joanna Weinberg

I love the idea of rice pudding: comfort


in a spoon. A sloppy, gentle, nurturing dish
that takes you back almost to the womb.
Composed of the humblest ingredients
rice, milk, sugar, nutmeg it requests barely a minute of your
time to put together then looks after itself for hours in the
oven, allowing the heat to work its transformational magic.
But when it comes to eating it? No thanks.
As with so many mild-mannered characters in my life,
both in the kitchen and out of it, it makes me feel a bit
queasy. I recognise the outraged yowl of AA Milnes Mary
Jane crying with all her might and main, and she wont eat
her dinner rice pudding again whenever I am confronted
with it. Perhaps, as with so many English foodstuffs, it was
school that ruined it for me. Or simply that I dont really
like the avour of milk school again: those compulsory,
tepid, silver-topped bottles waiting menacingly for break
time. Then theres the skin to contend with. Oh, the horror!
But for some, it is
the food of the gods
ambrosia, literally (but
not tinned) for Gautama
Buddha, who is said
to have eaten it as the
last meal before his
Enlightenment. You could travel the world eating nothing but
rice pudding, and you wouldnt go hungry. Theres no culture
that overlooks it. In North Africa you will nd it scented with
cinnamon and rose, in India with cardamom, then loaded
with sugar and sprinkled with gold leaf. In Thailand (I confess
I do like this one), the rice is steamed till sticky, drenched
with coconut cream and eaten with bright-orange ripe mango.
In Scandinavia it is taken cold: the Swedes favour it with
orange, the Danes with whipped cream and almonds. So here,
nally, is a sloppy version so characterful that even I nd it
irresistible, inspired by the Puerto Rican arroz con dulce.

You could travel


the world eating
nothing but this.
Its everywhere

This months recipe


Add coconut milk, and the same volume of whole milk, a
little grated nutmeg, a stick of cinnamon, a split vanilla pod,
sugar and lemon zest to a pan and simmer for 20 minutes,
then set aside to infuse. When you are ready
to cook, strain your scented liquid through
a ne sieve. Butter a dish and add to it your
rice (pudding or risotto) along with a couple
of spoonfuls of desiccated coconut, then
pour over the scented milk. Youll want a
surprisingly high ratio of liquid to rice: 40g
will absorb 500ml. Bake at 150C for about
two hours, checking theres enough liquid
(top up with water if necessary), stirring from
time to time if you dont like a skin on it, dotting
it with butter and leaving well alone if you do.

136 Cond Nast Traveller January 2014

Drink me
By Malcolm Gluck

Of all the dishes I can think of on the


planet, there is no other as potent as rice
pudding for engendering warm nostalgia
and creating eager anticipation at one
and the same time. The idea that you might drink wine with
such a dish, however, seems bizarre as if you had proposed
I should wear my old school tie knotted around my knee or
use my Makins felt fedora to rinse my socks in.
But (and it is a big but) I have never before encountered
such a ravishingly scrumptious rice pudding as this one. It is
a dish you could build a whole meal around. In fact, I shall
proceed as if this were the case, on the understanding that
we have already eaten a starter of sh pt and ploughed
our way through a board of odiferous runny cheeses with
baguettes, radishes and a salad of frise aux lardons; that
we have had glasses of a gentle New Zealand Sauvignon
Blanc with the sh and a hearty Sicilian red with the cheese.
And now comes that rice dessert, with its cinnamon and
nutmeg and coconut milk for which, wise epicures that we
are, we have ample appetite left. Out come the longstemmed, curvaceously lipped dessert-wine glasses, and up
from the cellar are being brought bottles of various sweet
wines so the real business of being a committed gourmand
can begin. To start us off on the right foot we pour a
little Torres Floralis Moscatel Oro NV (9.29 for 50cl at
Waitrose). It is outrageous, like treacle with a PhD. Made
from raisins, and its ferment curtailed by the addition of
brandy (the wine is just 15 per cent), it has perfume and
power. So has Tamar Ridge Botrytis Riesling 2011 from
Tasmania (13.99 for a half-bottle, also at Waitrose), but this
sweetie offers gooseberry and citrus, so it has a curiously
refreshing edge to
prepare us for the
great dessert wine
to follow. As this,
decanted 12 hours
previously, is poured
out, we realise that,
although the sweet
wines we have already sipped have been gracious, nothing
can prepare us for the bewildering complexity of Chteau
dYquem 1989, the great Bordeaux blanc made from grapes
so rotten you would have reeled in horror to see them. You
gasp, aware that some unscrupulous wine merchants
ask thousands for a bottle of this vintage. But
this is a half-bottle, rather a snip at 150 or
thereabouts, available from just two
places in the UK: Peter Wylie Fine Wines
of Devon (www.wylienewines.co.uk) and
Roberson Wine of London (www.roberson
wine.com). Can a rice pud deserve such a
sumptuous rarity? When it is this one, oh yes.

The Moscatel we
start off with is
outrageous, like
treacle with a PhD

PHOTOGRAPH: WILLIAM REAVELL ILLUSTRATIONS: HEATHER GATLEY

Eat me

For Information, bookings and details of TTDCs Tours, Contact : Tamilnadu Tourism, Tourism Complex, No. 2, Wallajah Road, Chennai - 600 002, INDIA.
Call : 91-44-2538 3333 / 9857, Fax : 91-44-2536 1385, Visit : www.tamilnadutourism.org, E-mail : ttdc@vsnl.com, For online booking log on : www.ttdconline.com, www.mttdconline.com

Suryanamaskar, a yogic ritual,


being performed at Rameswaram, Tamilnadu

DIPR/948/Display/2013

On the other
hand, just one
visit can change
you forever.

Things haven't changed much here


for a few thousand years.

The experts... books


BEST NEW TRAVEL TITLES

Everywhere I had ever


travelled across the vast
expanse of the fabulous
country where I was born
I had seen devastation...
Searching for somewhere
to archive her papers, in
2001, Germaine Greer was
taken to an abandoned
dairy farm in Queensland.
White Beech: The
Rainforest Years tells the
story of her decade-long
battle to rehabilitate the
damaged forest of white
beeches and other trees
she found there. Working
with her sister, a botanist,
she puts all her remarkable
passion and a lot of
money into the project.
Bloomsbury, 25

The sky became cloaked with


dust and the sun disappeared
into a sodium-like whiteness.
Bushes shivered, and formerly
listless leaves twisted and
ipped like landed mackerel.
I tugged the turban over my
mouth and the bridge of my
nose, and followed Ahmed in
search of my camels. So Alistair
Carr starts his journey across
the Manga, a remote part of
south-eastern Niger, in The
Nomads Path: Travels in the
Sahel. Made during a time of
Tuareg rebellion, his account
combines the lyricism of a poet
with the analytical insight of a
journalist. The result rightfully
takes its place in the long
tradition of British desert
exploration. IB Tauris, 18.99

By Giles Foden

In The Train in Spain,


Christopher Howse details
10 journeys by rail across
Spain. Stopping at the tiniest
little stations, his sharp eye
captures the kind of thing
one sees on holiday but
rarely reads about in books.
During the Zamora to Zafra
leg, Howse alights at the
old city of Cacres, to nd
its stone walls somewhat
blighted by featureless
blocks of ats. And yet,
sensory pleasure abounds:
The hams of Cacres hung
patiently in bars, waiting to be
eaten. Their fat, dripping at
geological speed, was caught
in a variety of little vessels
designed for the purpose.
Bloomsbury, 16.99

THE GREATEST BOOK ON EARTH


Hugh Thomson nominates Love in the Time of Cholera by Gabriel Garcia Marquez
No novelist
since Proust
has had a more
acute sense of
smell than
Mrquez. The
hot still air of
his Colombian
port is enveloped by the tender breath of
human shit, warm and sad against which his
protagonists wear imported cologne from
Farina Gegenuber. Yet one should not
mistake Mrquez as primarily a glorious
sensualist. The presiding impulse is that of
loss: loss both of love but also time. He

138 Cond Nast Traveller January 2014

moves so restlessly backwards and forwards


across the years during the telling of his story
and his creation of the illusion of memory that
I defy any reader to collate a chronological
ordering of events let alone of Florentinos
many loves and conquests as he tries to forget
the smell of his adored Fermina. Mrquez
has the quite unique ability to make the
reader feel that they are themselves
continually forgetting what he
has just told them.
Hugh Thomsons latest book is
The Green Road into the Trees:
An Exploration of England
(Preface, 18.99)

A great British tradition


in travel writing was
the county guide, as
exemplied by the Shell
Guides, edited by John
Betjeman, and another
extremely popular series
by Macmillan called
Highways and Byways.
In The Highways and
Byways of Britain,
David Milner
anthologises the best of
that series 36 volumes,
which ran between 1897
and 1948, each covering
a county or distinct area.
In the one on the
Scottish Borders, the
great folklorist Andrew
Lang regrets the decline
of trout in the Teviot:
The Scot, when he does
not use nets, poisons and
dynamite, is too often a
sher with the worm.
The value of these books
was to x a regional
identity in a tone of
voice. It seems nostalgic
now, but every British
reader will have a sense
of place that these
books speak to still.
Macmillan, 8.99

A Christmas Treat Quentin Blake

Buy Quentin Blake Christmas cards


exclusively from Survival International
UK charity no. 267444

Visit www.survivalinternational.org/shop
or call 020-7687 8700 for a catalogue

Survival International is the worldwide movement for tribal peoples

The experts... health


WINTER SUN

Fly south for that essential vitamin D


pick-me-up: not only does it help you feel happy but it wards
off nasties and helps keep bones strong. By Daisy Finer
BEST FOR A PEPPED-UP REVIVAL

Bali Goddess Retreat, Indonesia

BEST FOR A SLOW-DOWN RECOVERY

Four Seasons Resort


Mauritius at Anahita

Its rare to discover a big-brand hotel with a spa that taps into
your health, gently assesses then effectively reboots you with
some of the best holistic treatments, but here it is. All of the
136 creamy villas come with their own pool, gorgeous views
and an outdoor back-to-nature shower, as well as vast indoor
bathrooms, dressing rooms and all the techno gadgetry you
need. Wheel about on a bicycle; let children and teens loose
in their own enchanting private zones; play at everything from
wake boarding, tennis and water-skiing to
golf on the Ernie Els-designed course. And
then focus on yourself. The very calm spa, set
on stilts over the lagoon in its own little world,
is open every night until 9pm. Here you will
nd a man worth travelling for: 47-year-old
Jean-Michel, who looks like a monk and makes
you feel good simply by shaking your hand.
Hell set you on a programme of yoga, tai chi,
qigong, pranayama (Buddha belly breathing),
Tibetan rituals and magical moonlight meditation
under a vast starry sky.
This place is all about recharging your energy
levels and clearing your mind. Treatments include the coconutand-aloe island ritual (ask for Lia), where you are exfoliated,
wrapped and massaged to the point of wondering how you will
ever stand again, as well as vitamin-boosting facials, African
rainforest ceremonies, Ayurvedic massages using a mass of
potent herbal oils and the most delicious smelling exfoliations
with local sugar and coconut scrubs. By the time youre done,
you may even be craving a bit of grey English sky. Few fullthrottle hideaways lend such a gentle, soulful touch and send you
home so sure-footedly on a new and perky path.
+230 402 3100; www.fourseasons.com. Doubles from about
565. Air Mauritius (+44 20 7434 4375; www.airmauritius.com)
ies non-stop from Heathrow to Mauritius

140 Cond Nast Traveller January 2014

Ten years after opening, Balis Surf Goddess Retreat is now one of the
worlds leading surf retreats for women. But now non-water babes can
book an alternative: seven days of downtime in the same colonial-style
villa in the hip playground of Seminyak. The barefoot-chic house has
heaps of open-air living spaces, a huge pool and gorgeous, tuberosescented guestrooms with canopied beds and bathrooms stacked with
custom-blended goodies and cotton kimonos and sarongs. With a strictly
all-female guest policy, the focus is on small-group holistic nurturing.
Women-in-charge include Michelle, the warm, effervescent manager
with the inside track on the islands pre-eminent cranio-sacral therapists,
and Raine, a laidback Australian who leads the 90-minute, pre-breakfast
and pre-sunset garden yoga and meditation sessions.
Meals are homecooked and wholesome, gently detoxing and bursting
with tropical avours. Enjoy sublime grilled mahi-mahi with mango salsa
and Thai sh red curry, washed down with green juice shots (cucumber,
parsley and spinach). Theres very little you need to think about apart
from how to spend your day. You could turn honey-brown by the
poolside (supplied with endless sunscreen, teas and exotic fruits), hit the
cute boutiques a short totter away, and revel in the seven hours of
inclusive spa treatments which include hot-stone therapy (which melts
through laptop-knotted muscles), stretch-all Balinese massages where
youll be slathered in virgin coconut oil, and precise go-home mani-pedis.
You can also pick three Bliss Options: carefully selected day-trips that
range from cooking lessons to jungle-river white-water rafting and guided
mountain-biking forays through rice paddies.
But do make time for psychic spiritual counselling sessions with
James, a strapping Yorkshireman and an improbable but gifted psychic.
His advice is delivered with down-to-earth calmness and can be very
emotional. Most come out crying, but with enthusiasm and awe. It is
genuinely hard to leave this happy shiny bubble but you will emerge
noticeably re-energised. SAMANTHA COOMBER
+1 858 997 0808; www.baligoddessretreats.com. Seven-day Bali Goddess
Retreat from about 1,555 full board including yoga, activities, seven hours of
spa treatments and airport transfers

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The experts... gadgets


COLD-WEATHER GEAR

By George Duffield

The dark winter nights have drawn in and staying warm is both a
necessity and a pleasure. So the Geek is turning his thoughts to gadgets
that can help the traveller with the daily grind as well as those out in
the cold spaces of the world, lucky enough to be living life to the full.
Remember, just as bears conserve energy in winter so the modern Geek
must conserve juice, the foundation of all technological existence.

REI TECH OSLO GLOVES

MOPHIE JUICE PACK

Once a rarity, warm gloves that you can keep


on when you use your smartphone/tablet are
now essential. The REI gloves are a perfect
Goldilocks weight (neither too hot nor too cold)
and suitably inoffensive fashion-wise.
www.rei.com, about 14

One day, crystal cells will overcome all battery


issues but for now, anyone who is required by
job or holiday to be out and about in the freezing
weather must take a battery pack for on-thehoof charging. They dont come better than the
Mophie Juice Pack. Its good-looking with a large
capacity and, crucially, lets you charge/connect
your smartphone while its still turned on. No
ddling, no fuss. www.mophie.com, about 50

COLUMBIA BUGABOOT
PLUS ELECTRIC

180S BLUETOOTH HD WINTER


HEADPHONES WARMER
Regular readers will know the Geek loves
convergence less stuff, more functions.
These sleek, dark ear warmers contain
Bluetooth headphones (so two birds, one
stone). www.180s.com, about 50

ILLUSTRATION: HEATHER GATLEY PHOTOGRAPH: SHUTTERSTOCK

Columbia continues to push the boundaries of


heated outdoor clothing. Hot on the heels of its
electric-coat series are a pair of battery-warmed
hiking boots. They are ne for the pavement, of
course, but really come into their own on a
freezing Scottish hike. Crank the setting up and
enjoy toasty toes until the Duracell runs out.
www.columbia.com, about 155

142 Cond Nast Traveller January 2014

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The experts... advice

Q
A

Im desperate to escape the gloomy British winter.


Can you recommend somewhere with guaranteed
warmth and sunshine?

The Chedi (www.ghmhotels.com) in Muscat, above, is


wonderfully serene, with architecture that blends exotic
Middle-Eastern touches with a restful Zen minimalism. The
rooms are immaculate, the service unobtrusive, and the
gardens a carpet of tranquilising green. Our winter is a great
time to visit, with temperatures in Oman a
close-to-perfect 27C. I guarantee you will
nd it relaxing, although its true that on
the beach during the afternoon you can
hear the occasional hum of planes high
overhead. If you dont fancy swimming
in the sea, there are three outdoor pools
to choose from. My favourite, the 103metre Long Pool, is a magical place for
an evening swim: the palm trees are lit
up against the inky sky, open res
Sarah Spankie
icker down the length of the pool
Deputy editor
and, after a few punishing laps, you
can oat on your back counting the stars. To top it off,
Carrier (+44 161 492 1358;www.carrier.co.uk) offers ve
nights for the price of four in January.

144 Cond Nast Traveller January 2014

Q
A

Im organising a big-deal family reunion in Cape Town


and want to book somewhere really impressive for a
blow-out, no-expense-spared celebration. Any ideas?
Last year I stayed at The One Penthouse in the One&Only
Cape Town for just such an event. Arriving ahead of my family
to check things out, I looked up from the private lobby to
glimpse Clinton the butler bouncing down a suspended marble
staircase to take me on a tour of the four downstairs bedrooms,
one with a dressing room, and then upstairs (in a private lift)
through open-plan living spaces, past the grand piano and
out to various terraces until, nally,
the swimming pool with views up to
Table Mountain. I still dream about that
spellbinding space where twinkly-eyed
Clinton served us supper prepared by the
head chef, unfazed by the impromptu
addition of an unexpected cousin, how
he booked a haircut for my bedraggled
nephew about to attend his graduation,
Peter Browne
and got a pharmacy to open early to deal
Associate editor
with the consequences of the after-party.
No other place Ive stayed has managed
to combine off-the-scale glamour with such down-home
hospitality. You wont get much change from 16,000 for
two nights (B&B for up to eight adults and two children under
11), but you did say no expense spared. Book through Africa
Travel (+44 20 7843 3500; www.africatravel.co.uk).

I completed Tough Mudder in England this year with


a gang of girlfriends and now were looking for the
next challenge, perhaps further from home. Can you
suggest something adventurous?
If youre not put off by the cold, you could sign up for the
Arctic Marathon, run by Walk the Walk. The breastcancer charity is best known for its MoonWalk marathons:
night-time power strolls through cities such as London
and Edinburgh in which participants cover the 26
miles dressed in an array of
decorative bras. For this event
in the Abisko National Park in
Swedish Lapland, forget the
underwear as outerwear and
zip your North Face right up.
Technically, the skiing is not
a million miles away from
power walking and a mornings
training is included. The
challenge is one of endurance; Issy von Simson
back-country skiing across a
Features editor
42km route over two days,
bedding down at night in mountain huts. You might even
get a glimpse of the Northern Lights if youre lucky. The
fun takes place from 27 February to 4 March 2014.
www.walkthewalk.org/Challenges/TheArcticMarathon

PHOTOGRAPH: MAX KIM BEE

Q
A

KEY W
EST

BIG PINE KEY & THE LOWER KEYS

MARA

THO

KE

With its natural beauty, world-class fishing and diving, eco-adventures, rich history
and fine island cuisine, a week or more in The Florida Keys is exactly what your
A
inner explorer needs.
AD
OR
AM
L
IS
a-keys.co.uk 0208 686 2600

LA

RG

For modern-day explorers,


theres no place like The Florida Keys.

Holidays should be incredible, breathtaking, exciting, surprising, relaxing, inspiring and so much more.
We understand this; we appreciate the value of time, the ability to re-energise and re-connect
with your friends and family, the opportunity to be calm and for a period in time, truly relax.
The next time you are thinking like this, think of us.

INDULGE IN LUXURY
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T RAVELLER PROM OT ION

THE LAST WORD


in

LUXURY

If youre looking for a unique villa to create an unforgettable holiday,


James Villa Holidays has some spectacular new properties for 2014
he concept of a luxury villa means different
things to different people. For some, its a
beautifully converted farmhouse with acres
of space, for others a beachfront escape with
all the mod-cons, from the latest high-tech toys to
keep everyone amused, to a state-of-the-art kitchen.
Whatever your denition, James Villa Holidays has
a property to suit, with an extensive programme of
over 2,700 villas across more than 50 destinations.

For the last word in luxury, James Villas has a collection


of over 100 unique villas that represent the epitome of

style and gracious living,


Clockwise from
some with in-house cinemas
above: The pool
or private beaches, others
at Monte Mare in
with saunas and steam
Cyprus; Bedroom at
rooms. Voted Favourite
Kyma in Crete,
Villa Rental Company at
a new addition to
the Cond Nast Traveller
the portfolio; The
Readers' Travel Awards in
sitting room at
2012, James Villas is the
Monte Mare
countrys leading villa
specialist and can arrange some outstanding
extras to make a holiday truly unforgettable.
At some of the most spectacular villas in the
collection, a private chef or nanny can be
arranged.

NEW FOR 2014


James Villas is always on the lookout for new properties
to add to its exclusive luxury collection, and new for
2014 is the stunning villa Monte Mare in Coral Bay in
Cyprus. The all-white villa oozes style, with every
imaginable luxury; a games room with air-hockey and
Nintendo Wii, wonderful outdoor innity pool and
jacuzzi, private gym, tennis and squash court and
spectacular views across the ocean. The ve chic
bedrooms mix brilliant white dcor with splashes of
colour, while outside the different terraced areas are
perfect for alfresco evenings by the pool.

In Crete, villa Kyma is also a new addition for 2014;


a spectacularly designed four-bedroom, ve-bathroom
villa, which steps down the rocky hillside overlooking
the Bay of Chania. The mix of exposed brick and
clean white walls gives the living area a delightfully
contemporary feel, with a glass wall along one side of
the room making the most of the spectacular sea views.
Bedrooms are cool and chic,
while the wide terrace around
the sparkling innity pool is
the perfect place to sit and
watch the spectacular sunsets.

For more information visit,


jamesvillas.co.uk

Co mpetition

Where are you?


This may appear to be a miracle, but the
boy racer in the picture is not actually
speeding across a lake like a go-carting
Messiah. The water is only millimetres
deep, the result of a recent downpour on
what is normally an expanse of arid salt
ats. You would have seen a lake here if you
happened to be passing 15,000 years ago,
but it has long since receded (a part of it
that remains gives its name to a city about
120 miles from here); and the illusion of
its reappearance will quickly vanish as the
water evaporates in the sun.
For the past 100 years, the salt ats have
been used as a suitably hard, obstacle-free
space in which to attempt land-speed records,

148 Cond Nast Traveller January 2014

with ve major contests now taking place


annually. A 2005 lm tells the story of one
particular racer who found fame here.
The two nearest settlements look like a
single town (theres no gap between them),
but they are in fact under very different
jurisdictions. One has liberal gambling and
alcohol laws; the other allows no gambling
at all and enforces strict rules about the sale
of booze. How they manage to get along,
cheek by jowl, is pretty miraculous in itself.
Where are you? CHRISTY WARD
To enter, identify the salt ats where the photograph
was taken. Correct answers will be placed in
a random prize-draw. For competition rules and
prize details, please turn the page

PHOTOGRAPH: RYAN HEFFERNAN

Co mpetition prize

Reader offer

WIN a 4,000
break in Thailand
All is beautifully serene at
this super-smart escape on a hill
overlooking Tri Trang and Patong
beaches in southern Phuket. At
Avista Hideaway Resort and Spa
you can kick back and be
pampered with Ayurvedic treatments and a 24-hour butler
service, and watch the sunset from the roof-top bar, which
offers creative cocktails and sensational views of the Andaman
Sea. Enter this months Where Are You? competition and
you could win a holiday for two here. The prize, worth more
than 4,000, includes seven nights accommodation for two in
a Buena Vista room, breakfast, transfers and Thai Airways
ights from London to Phuket via Bangkok. The holiday
cannot be taken in the peak season from December 2013
to February 2014. For more details, visit www.hideaway.
avistahotelsandresorts.com or call +662 661 8141

SOAK UP THE SUN IN

WHERE ARE YOU?

INDIA

Identify the location, right,


and send in your entry to
arrive by 31 January. All
correct entries will also be
included in the Grand Prize
draw at the end of the current
competition period (1 October
201330 September 2014).

Save 15 per cent on a stay at the super-smart


Taj Coromandel hotel in bustling Chennai

OCTOBERS WINNER
The winner of Octobers Where Are
You? competition is William Fowler of
Hull, who identied the picture as
Boumalne du Dades, Morocco. He wins
a weeks holiday for two at the
Viceroy Maldives.

18 or older on the date of entry,


except for employees of Cond
Nast Publications, participating
promotional agencies, contributors
to Cond Nast Traveller, and
the families of any of the above.
Entries by post should be
sent to: Where Are You?
competition, Cond Nast
Traveller, Vogue House, 1
Hanover Square, London
W1S 1JU. Email entries should
be sent to: compcntraveller@
condenast.co.uk

To enter online and for full terms & conditions, visit


www.cntraveller.com/competitions
150 Cond Nast Traveller January 2014

PHOTOGRAPHS: NICOLAS BRITO; RYAN HEFFERNAN

COMPETITION RULES
1. Entries for Cond Nast
Travellers Where Are You?
competition can be sent on a
postcard, by email or online
(stating your full name, address
and telephone number), and
must correctly identify the place
described according to the
instructions given. 2. Entries
must arrive no later than the last
day of the month on this issues
cover. 3. The Where Are You?
competition is open to readers
of Cond Nast Traveller who are

he city of Chennai is a gateway to the charms


of Indias colourful south-east coast. Known
for its supreme service and plush design, the
Taj Coromandel is an elegant base from which to explore
the culture of Chennai and beyond.
The ve-star hotel offers Captivating Chennai: city
experiences which include a modern-art tour with leading
artists, a visit to collectors homes to get a glimpse of rare
South Indian artefacts, and a personal shopper to help guests
seek out the best jewellery and textiles. Although you may nd
it difcult to venture out of the Taj Coromandels front door
with ve bars and restaurants avour-packed dishes range
from crispy soft-shell crab at Southern Spice to classic biryani
at Anise a beauty salon, swimming pool, tness centre, games
room, homeware and fashion boutique, and butler service.
Cond Nast Traveller readers have the exclusive
opportunity to save 15 per cent on a stay in a Luxury
Room here. The special price of Rs11,796 (about 120)
per room per night is based on double occupancy and
includes breakfast. The offer is valid until 28 February
2014, excluding 27 December 20134 January 2014. A
minimum two-night stay is required.

FOR MORE DETAILS OR TO BOOK


Email coromandel.chennai@tajhotels.com, quoting
Cond Nast Traveller offer

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PROMOTIONS

STROLLING BARE FOOT AMONG THE


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SONG SAA PRIVATE ISLAND, CAMBODIA'S
ISLANDS, GULF OF THAILAND

T RAVELLER PROM OT ION

honeymoon

ll eyes are on the Roman spa town


of Bath this spring for the opening
of Malaysian group YTL Hotels
eagerly anticipated new property,
The Gainsborough Bath Spa.
This 99-room, ve-star hotel on
Beau Street occupies three listed and
historic buildings from the Georgian
and Elizabethan eras and is the only
UK hotel to house a natural thermal
spa, tapping directly into the thermal
waters. Three Deluxe bedrooms are linked to the
Spa Village Bath with its three therapeutic pools
and have thermal waters coming into the bath tub
via their own special tap. Perfect for spa loving
honeymooners. The hotel is also licensed for
weddings with The Chapel Room its most
playful venue. Deluxe rooms from 289 per
night including breakfast and thermal water
spa access. THEGAINSBOROUGHBATHSPA.CO.UK;

0060 3 2783 1000

Ian Schrager, the founding father of lifestyle


hotels not to mention New Yorks coolest

her POP-UP WARDROBE

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP:


LOFT SUITE AT THE
LONDON EDITION; SPA
VILLAGE POOL AT THE
GAINSBOROUGH BATH SPA

FIRST
NIGHTS

nightclub of all time, Studio 54 is back in


London 15 years after he opened The Sanderson
and St Martins Lane with The London
Edition. Probably the sexiest rst night in the
capital, it is styled as a fusion of old and new,

4.

6.

1.
5.

2.

7.
3.

1 . L I N D A FA R R O W L U X E S U N G L A S S E S , 4 4 9 , M Y- WA R D R O B E . C O M ; 2 . S O P H I A
H U L M E T O T E , 5 9 0 , M Y- WA R D R O B E . C O M ; 3 . B I K I N I , 1 8 5 , R I G B YA N D P E L L E R . C O . U K ;
4. IPHONE 5S IN GOLD, FROM 549, APPLE.COM; 5. K JACQUES SANDALS, 199,
M Y- WA R D R O B E . C O M ; 6 . B O U T O N R I N G S , 1 , 9 9 0 E U R O S , TA M A R A C O M O L L I . C O M ;
7 . M P 3 P L AY E R , 1 3 0 , A D I D A S . C O . U K / P O R S C H E _ D E S I G N _ S P O RT

inspired by English aristocratic country piles


and an urban gentlemans club. The philosophy
is to dine, imbibe and party hard in the Punch
Room bar, Berners Tavern restaurant, headed up
by star chef Jason Atherton, and the Basement
nightclub. Then retire to your sophisticated
walnut or oak-clad suite for intimate calm. Giltframed Dutch masters remind you that Schrager
is at work here. Take a double look and they
are actually irreverent photographs by Hendrik
Kerstens. As Schrager says, Were all human
beings. We all want to dance. And especially
on your rst night. Doubles from 295. EDITIONHOTELS.MARRIOTT.COM/LONDON; 020 7781 0000
Elmore Court, a Grade 2 listed estate in
Gloucestershire overlooking the Cotswold
Hills, has been in the Guise family for over 750
years. Current heir Anselm Guise, following a
multi-million pound renovation, has now opened
it as a wedding venue. Think state-of-the-art
sound and lighting combined with regal Teniers
tapestries in the Main Hall. The Gillyower, a
spectacular new ballroom, has rammed earth
walls and a at meadow roof. Newlyweds can
party the night away and then just head up
the grand staircase to the oak-panelled Master
Bridal Suite with its eight-foot wide Caesar
bed. There are seven other newly-refurbished
double bedrooms with en-suites, from 120-300
per night. For a quick getaway in the morning,
Bristol Airport is just 30 minutes away or
one hour 45 minutes to London Heathrow.
Wedding hire starts at 2,650. ELMORECOURT.COM;
01452 720 293

JAMAICA

SAINT LUCIA

ANTIGUA

BAHAMAS

GRENADA

BARBADOS

MORE QUALITY INCLUSIONS


THAN

ANY

Love Nest Suites with Personal Butler Service

OTHER

The Caribbeans Best Beaches

RESORTS

Unlimited Scuba Diving for certied divers

ON

THE

Check into a Sandals Resort and you will be treated to our


Discovery Dining programme, where anytime dining in up
to 15 restaurants per resort awaits you. We pride ourselves
in our European and International cuisines using fresh and
local ingredients, each of which comes with its own Head
Chef that specialises in their area. Unlimited snacks, white
glove service and exclusive Butler Service are also available.
We even offer Private Candlelit Dinners^ on the beach or
on your terrace if you prefer. These are just a few of the
personal dining touches that come with your next Sandals
holiday, the rest we call Luxury Included.

TO BOOK THE WORLDS LEADING ALL - INCLUSIVE RESORTS

Call 0800 742 742 | Visit sandals.co.uk


See your local travel agent
*Restaurants vary per resort. ^At cost.

PLANET

FOLLOW US ON

T RAVELLER PROM OT ION

honeymoon

aldivian resorts are falling


over themselves to please
honeymooners with ever
more lavish villas and curated
experiences. Four of the latest
openings have romance at
their core

Maalifushi by Como opens


in March exclusively on Thaa
Atoll. A choice of just 17 stilted
bungalows on their own jetty are in pole position
for searing Maldivian sunsets. Each comes with
direct access to the lagoon, private pool and
sundeck. The coral here is unblemished, so the
snorkelling is iridescent with an on-site dive
centre and resident marine biologist. Alternatively
head off for a romantic picnic with a discreet
butler at your beck and call. Seven-nights from

2,875 per person with flights, sea plane transfers


and breakfast. BAILEYROBINSON.COM; 01488 689 700

From Courchevel to the Maldives, Cheval Blanc


now brings honeymooners luxury barefoot
living in the tropics at the new Cheval Blanc
Randheli. After being given a dab of Island Chic
scented rose water on the seaplane ight, and a
pair of espadrilles on arrival, a team of alchemists
are on hand 24/7 to cater to all your wishes. Each
of the 45 villas is decorated with sculptural colour
spots by artist Vincent Beaurin and is looked
after by its own majordome (butler). Expect
bespoke experiences such as a nocturnal dhoni
cruise across the lagoon, enjoying the incredible
Maldivian night sky, before a Guerlain treatment
in the Cheval Blanc Spa and an intimate candlelit dinner on the spa terrace. Seven-nights from

his POP-UP WARDROBE


2.

1.

3.

7,250 per person in a one-bedroom island villa


with breakfast. CAZLOYD.COM; 020 7384 2332

Set in a constellation of islands known as the


Noonu Atoll, north of Mal, Velaa Private
Island Maldives brings a dash of drama to

4.

5.
1. UNIFORM WARES 300 SERIES CHRONOGRAPH
WRISTWATCH, 620; 2. BORSALINO WOVEN-PAPER
T R I L B Y H AT, 1 2 0 ; 3 . V A L E N T I N O L E AT H E R - T R I M M E D
SNEAKERS, 345, 4. BAXTER OF CALIFORNIA TRAVEL
KIT WITH WASH BAG, 50; ALL MRPORTER.COM
5 . A N C H O R B R A C E L E T, $ 1 9 , T H R E A D E T I Q U E T T E . C O M

CLOCKWISE FROM THIS


IMAGE: THE BRIDGE TO
KOH BONG AT SONG SAA
IN CAMBODIA; MASTER
BEDROOM AT CHEVAL
BLANC RANDHELI; PRIVATE
DINING AT SONEVA FUSHI;
JUNGLE TOWER AT VELAA
PRIVATE ISLAND, ALL
IN THE MALDIVES

CASTAWAY
fantasy

the Maldives. At its heart is a striking ivory


tower, home to Michelin star chef Adeline
Grattards teppanyaki restaurant, Tavaru, where
live cooking shows are standard. Of the 43
private villas, 18 are over water, and one, the
Romantic Pool Residence, is reached only by
boat. Suspended above the lagoon, it has its own
spa treatment room and jetty with dining terrace.
Their M Blend by Clarins spa has the rst snow
room in the Maldives and theres a Troon Short
Game Golf Academy if you feel the need to
putt. Seven-nights in a Beach Pool Villa
with breakfast from 7,664 per person.
CAZLOYD.COM;

020 7384 2332

And the best of the rest for


Maldivian romance
Soneva Fushi remains the no news, no shoes
blueprint for all barefoot luxury hideaways.

Honeymoons are all about slow life experiences


here. Rise early when the gentle sunrise near
the equator turns the sky lilac or crimson, and
savour a beach picnic breakfast with a glass
of organic champagne. Dine at Fresh in the
Garden, followed by stargazing in the only cutting

dining areas. Sensuous experiences for couples


include Buddhist love blessings, sunrise yoga,
bioluminescence night swims, massages in the
rainforest, a champagne sunset cruise, full-moon
picnics under the stars, in-villa screenings and
scented baths with Champagne and trufes. Sevennights in a Jungle Villa all-inclusive from 11,513
per couple including daily bespoke wellness
programme, flights, transfers and excursions.
ORIGINALTRAVEL.CO.UK; 020 3582 4990

The iconic Hayman Island in the Whitsunday


Islands on Australias Great Barrier Reef is
undergoing a multi-million rebirth by One&Only
Resorts and will open in April. New experiences
are key. Have an ocean massage oating in the
calm waters of the Coral Sea or a romantic escape
to famous Whitehaven Beach. Experiences
will be able to be purchased on the One&Only
Honeymoon Registry so friends and family can
give memorable experiences as wedding gifts.

RELAXING AT SONG SAA


I N C A M B O D I A . R I G H T:
GARDEN SUITE
AT MAALIFUSHI
BY COMO IN THE
MALDIVES

Four-nights at One&Only Hayman Island in


a Hayman Lagoon Room with breakfast and
three nights at the Sheraton Sydney from 2,099
per person. TRAILFINDERS.COM; 020 7368 1200

edge Observatory in the Maldives (so cutting


edge even Buzz Aldrin visits). For US$100,
honeymooners can ofcially name a star after
their loved one. From August, the new Soneva
in Aqua will offer a oating villa experience
with all the exclusivity of a private yacht charter.
The master suite has a sunken glass bath and
the couples spa treatments are heavenly. Sevennights from 2,854 per person in a Crusoe Villa,
half board. ONLYEXCLUSIVETRAVEL.COM; 0161 233 0110

Whilst young pretenders jostle for attention,


the family-owned Baros Maldives has been
welcoming honeymooners for 40 years to its
natural lush habitat. Thats not to say it hasnt
kept pace. From its thatch hut and coconut palm
beginnings, couples can now check into lavish
villas tucked away at the end of the boardwalk

jetty, sporting private swimming pools in generous


timber veranda decks suspended above the
lagoon. What has remained constant is the resorts
pristine house reef; this was the rst resort to
develop a dive and marine centre with a serious
eye on reef preservation. Seven-nights in a Baros
Pool Villa from 3,040. Honeymooners receive a
bottle of wine and chocolates, framed photo and
candlelit dinner for two.
AUDLEYTRAVEL.COM;

01993 838 300

Castaway in the rest of the world


Two pristine islands in Cambodias untouched
Koh Rong Archipelago, known locally as Song
Saa (Khmer for the sweethearts), have become
the ultimate castaway private island resort with
over-water, beach and jungle villas, all with
private pools, outdoor showers and private

Sandals LaSource Grenada is one of the


latest to open with an emphasis on wellness.
New Skypool Suites are recommended for
Caribbean honeymooners with their innity
edge plunge pools on the balcony and sunset
ocean views,as is Island Routes Snorkelling
Champagne Lobster Cruise with its stop at an
underwater sculpture park. Seven-nights in
a Skypool Suite from 3,098 per person allinclusive. SANDALS.CO.UK; 0800 597 0002

St Regis Mauritius lies between the UNESCO


World Heritage site of Le Morne mountain
and the Indian Ocean. Here you have all the
hallmarks of a top resort fused with the spirit of
a castaway honeymoon with 172 generous suites,
six ne dining venues including Simply India,
helmedby twice Michelin-starred Indian chef,
Atul Kochhar. Book the Iridium Spa for a side-byside hot guava and coconut milk body ritual
or go kite surng on the lagoon. Seven-nights
from 2,029 per person, half board.
BA.COM/MAURITIUS;

0844 493 0758

T RAVELLER PROM OT ION

honeymoon

C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T:
TIGER BLUE SAILING IN
THE RAJA AMPAT ISLANDS,
INDONESIA; TERRAIN PARK AT
CANYONS IN UTAH

SOFT
ADVENTURE

Mantis, renowned for its boutique hotels, eco


lodges, game reserves and boutique cruises
has launched Mantis Extreme, a collection of
authentic, once-in-a-lifetime encounters picked
out with the help of adventurer Bear Grylls. True
grit honeymooners can choose between snow
leopard encounters in Nepal, Galapagos diving,
safari-style Arctic expeditions or shark cage
diving in South Africa. Top of many audacious
honeymooners lists will be the sensational
walking safaris, y camping and canoeing of the
wild Lugenda River at Lugenda Wilderness Camp
in Northern Mozambique Africa at its wildest.
Seven-night Wildly Romantic Honeymoon in the
Niassa Reserve, Northern Mozambique from
3,800 per person (excludes international flights
to Pemba). MANTISEXTREME.COM; 020 7594 4790

xploring untouched Indonesian islands


on board Tiger Blue, a traditional
timber phinisi (sailing boat), is the
ultimate in chic bohemian adventure.
The camaraderie of a shared boat holds
true with 10 boutique en-suite cabins,
though most prefer to sleep on deck
for the balmy breezes and starry night
skies. Honeymooners can sneak off to
uninhabited islands for Champagne
lunches deux (Padar Bay on Padar
Island in Komodo is super romantic). Or enjoy
a private snorkelling or diving excursion to
see the Manta rays in both Komodo and Raja
Ampat, where there are literally hundreds of
castaway islands. A trip to a village at early
dawn to see Birds of Paradise in Raja Ampat is
also memorable. Seven-night Komodo Islands

charter on Tiger Blue from 3,365 per person


including all food and soft drinks, flights and
two nights in Bali at Alila Villas Uluwatu.
AMPERSANDTRAVEL.COM;

020 7819 9770

Retreat package with bubbly on arrival, a couples


massage and a US$50 (31) daily resort credit.
Share a fondue for two at the Lookout Cabin.
Come evening, head to The Farm for a hearty,
locally-sourced dinner. The Exclusive Couples
Retreat package at the Waldorf Astoria Park
City costs from 377 per night: WALDORFASTORIA.
COM; 00 1 385 647 5500

If winter sports is your nirvana, wed in winter and


head to Canyons, Utahs glam ski resort with
nine mountains and 182 trails, just 35 minutes
from Salt Lake International Airport. Waldorf
Astoria Park City has a dedicated gondola for
mountain access and an Exclusive Couples

Oman still exudes all the romance of Arabia.


Pioneering honeymooners can be among the rst

her POP-UP WARDROBE

5.

2.
1.

4.
6.
3.

1. BIKINI, 230, ORLEBARBROWN.CO.UK; 2.SOLEIL DE LA MER COLLECTION, FROM 65,


CREMEDELAMER.CO.UK; 3. BALLET PUMPS, 95, FRENCHSOLE.COM; 4. THELA HALO
B A C K B A G , 5 5 0 , M E L I M E L O . C O . U K ; 5 . B E S P O K E WA LT O N B A G , 8 5 0 , A N YA H I N D M A R C H .
COM; 6. BOUTON RINGS, FROM 1,690 EUROS, TAMARACOMOLLI.COM

T RAVELLER PROM OT ION

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP


L E F T: T E N T E D S U I T E AT
JAWAI LEOPARD CAMP IN
RAJASTHAN, INDIA; AERIAL
VIEW OF ALILA JABAL
AKHDAR IN OMAN

honeymoon

local Rabari herdsmen, a semi-nomadic pastoral


community who have lived here for centuries.
Private breakfasts in the bush, sundowners on a
hill-top and wellness therapies in the Sujan
Spa are all joyous occasions. An eight-night
tour of Rajasthan including three nights at
Jawai Leopard Camp from 2,449 per person.
GREAVESINDIA.CO.UK;

020 487 9111

Mauritius is well known for its romantic


hotels, but wanes when it comes to adventure.
Heritage Le Telfair is about to change all that
with its Create Your Own (CYO) adventurous
honeymoon, encouraging couples to explore
the Domain de Bel Ombre nature reserve
in the south of the island. Couples are given
a personal navigator to compile an active
honeymoon itinerary around the elements
of earth, air and water; for example, you
can mountain bike through the Frederica
Nature Reserve, take a helicopter tour of the
reserve or paddle a boat down the Citronnier
River. Seven-nights from 1,427 half board.
TURQUOISEHOLIDAYS.CO.UK; 01494 678 400

his POP-UP WARDROBE

2.

1.

3.

private pool, jacuzzi and steam room. Come in


spring when the highlands are blanketed in roses.
The local rose water is the perfect honeymoon
keepsake. Jabal terrace rooms cost from 294
per night. ALILAHOTELS.COM; 01932 220 908

to experience the new Alila Jabal Akhdar in the


largely unexplored Al Hajar mountains when it
opens in March. Sustainable architecture, inspired
by Omani craftsmanship, lies at the heart of the
resort. Arrive at your cliff-top location by four
wheel drive and then take tailored mountain bike
treks or desert driving tours from Muscat to Jabal
Akhdar, before relaxing with a couples treatment
in the spa. Picnics on remote wadis under the
shadow of date palms are romantic for newlyweds,
as are 1001 starry night-inspired dinners for
two on the cliff edge. For ultimate honeymoon
indulgence, book the Royal Omani Villa with

Rajasthan has long been seducing honeymooners


with its riches. Now theres added adventure
with the opening of Jawai Leopard Camp.
Located between the towns of Jodhpur and
Udaipur, and enclosed by the ancient Aravalli
hill range, the camp has eight luxurious tented
suites kitted out in canvas, leather and stainless
steel, all with private bathrooms and rain showers.
Decorative artefacts have been handcrafted in
metal by renowned artist Michael Aram and
wildlife photographs adorn the walls from owners
Anjali and Jaisal Singhs private collection.
Honeymooners have spectacular vistas of the
dramatic granite rock formations from their private
viewing decks and are given cameras and his and
hers binoculars for their stay. The probability of
spotting an elusive leopard is 75 percent when out
in the sleek open-topped 4x4 jeeps. But theres
a 100 percent chance of meeting the charismatic

4.

7.
6.

5.

1. ALBURY V-NECK IN CAMEL, 81, ALANPAINE.CO.UK;


2 . M I A N S A I T R I C E W O V E N - L E AT H E R B R A C E L E T, 8 0 ,
MRPORTER.COM; 3. CHERCHBI X MARWOOD TRAVEL
CASE (INC.BOWTIE &TIE), 375, CHERCHBI.COM;
4 . M A R AT H O N A S N E A K E R , 6 9 . 5 0 E U R O S , H U M M E L . N E T;
5 . B R E M O N T A LT 1 - W T / B L W O R L D T I M E R WAT C H ,
4,195, MRPORTER.COM; 6. BOTTEGA VENETA
S U N G L A S S E S , 2 8 0 , M R P O R T E R . C O M ; 7 . J A C K E T,
475, ORLEBARBROWN.CO.UK

T RAVELLER PROM OT ION

honeymoon

C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T: P O O L A R E A AT
KIKILI BEACH IN SRI LANKA; MAIN POOL AT SIX
SENSES YAO NOI IN THAILAND; THE VIEW FROM
THE HELICOPTER WHEN ARRIVING AT AZURA IN
MOZAMBIQUE; INTERIOR OF KIKILI BEACH

rrive by helicopter from Pemba


island and look out over some
of Africas clearest waters when
you honeymoon at Azura in
Mozambique. Beautiful Villa
Quilalea is set aside from the
main lodge perched up high on a
cliff, and is where honeymooners
have their own private butler.
You can scuba dive straight from
the villa as it has ocean access
from a cliff-top stepladder. Take a romantic
sailing trip by dhow to Quissiva Island, with its
beautiful sandbank, for a private lunch where
beanbags and cushions are perfect for lazing
around before a snorkelling adventure just
for two. From 6,990 per person full board.
BLACKTOMATO.COM; 020 7426 9888
Six Senses Yao Noiin Thailand has
rustic-meets-ve-star honeymoons down to
a tee. Its jungly beach setting is the perfect
antidote to wedding stress with inspiring views
over dramatic limestone cliffs. Youll feel
invigorated by nature and by the pampering
of the Six Senses staff. From your beachfront
pool villa, you can skip hand in hand through
your garden onto the beach or upgrade to the
Hideaway Pool Villa with its double spa sala
on the pool deck for side-by-side treatments.
Seven-nights from 1,369 in a private pool
villa with breakfast. Honeymooners receive a
complimentary candlelit dinner, a 50-minute
massage and a bottle of sparkling wine.
TRAILFINDERS.COM;

HIDEAWAYS
JUST FOR
two

the rustic thatched pavilion next to the pool with


its cosy day bed close to gently crashing waves
just over the garden wall. The villa comes with a
housekeeper who prepares delicious breakfasts.
Cooking lessons are available at the local school,
mountain bike tracks to Leopard Rock are
plentiful and surng and whale watching make
the most of the stunning Indian Ocean.
From 1,465 per person with breakfast.
ABERCOMBIEKENT.CO.UK;

local trinkets, patterned fabrics and paintings,


all just ten minutes away from the UNESCO
World Heritage site of Galle Fort. Weathered
white gates lead to the beachfront. Best of all is

her POP-UP WARDROBE

0845 485 1142

The white, Victorian style bungalows for two at


Banyan Tree Seychelles are as private as youll
nd at a resort. With views of the Indian Ocean,
each villa comes with its own pool, pavilion and
sprawling veranda. Impress your loved one with
a gourmet beach picnic with wines from the

3.

1.

5.

2.
4.

020 7368 1200

For an opulently boho bolthole for two on the


Sri Lankan coast, Kikili Beach villa is a real
nd. Couples can make believe this is their
very own home with its reclaimed furniture,

1. BIKINI, 210, ORLEBARBROWN.CO.UK; 2. CHRISTOPHER KANE


D R E S S , 7 9 5 , N E T- A - P O RT E R . C O M ; 3 . J B R A N D D E N I M S H O RT S ,
1 9 5 , M Y- WA R D R O B E . C O M ; 4 . PA N A M A I P H O N E B A G , 2 9 5 ,
S M Y T H S O N . C O M ; 5 . C H R I S T O P H E R K A N E L A C E J A C K E T, 1 , 2 9 5 ,
N E T- A - P O RT E R . C O M ; 6 . H E E L S , 1 , 6 9 5 , N E T- A - P O RT E R . C O M

6.

precious

Time is so
,
smart couples steal it

Rendezvous allows you to nd time, time to be together, time to


relax, time to talk. It gives you time to reconnect and to reect.
It gives you time to concentrate on each other, to refocus.
It gives you time to rediscover what matters most you.

Rediscover lifes pleasures together.

Visit www.theromanticholiday.com or call 0203 096 1608

T RAVELLER PROM OT ION

honeymoon
his POP-UP WARDROBE
2.
1.

3.

5.

4.
6.
C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T: P R I VAT E
DINING AT BANYAN TREE SEYCHELLES;
BEDROOM AT DORMY HOUSE IN THE
COTSWOLDS; EXTERIOR OF DORMY
HOUSE; L'ILE AUX OISEAUX SUITE AT
LES SOURCES DE CAUDALIE IN BORDEAUX

cellar, Champagne served by your private butler


on a cliff top as the sun sets, dinner in a candlelit
pavilion on Intendence Beach or poolside at the
Presidential Villa, with an overnight there
too. Seven-nights from 3,140 per person in a
Hillside Pool Villa. CARRIER.CO.UK; 0161 492 1358

Barely a dot on the map, the private island


of Little Thatch is ve minutes by boat from
the western tip of Tortola in the British Virgin
Islands. Sea Grape Cottage is the perfect
beachfront escape for honeymooners who
want to laze away the days in a king-sized
hammock on the balcony, op on their four
poster bed, feel the sand in their toes and take
the complimentary sail across to Sopers Hole
for provisions and a meal out. A chef can be
arranged and ice is delivered daily. From
3,275 per person. CVTRAVEL.CO.UK;
020 7401 1099
A summerhouse on stilts over a lake, the
appropriately named LIle aux Oiseaux suite
at Les Sources de Caudalie is a magical
hideaway in the heart of the family owned
Chteau Smith Haut Latte vineyard near
Bordeaux. As well as producing some of the
nest wines in France, it is also home to a
Michelin starred restaurant and the original
Caudalie Vinothrapie spa. Young French
fashion designer Maxime Simons, mentored
by Sidney Toledano, CEO of Christian Dior,
was briefed to use the exclusive suite as a
creative workshop. The result is characterised
by contrast: black against white, matt against
gloss, plain against print all united by greens
and blues throughout. From 430 per person
per night with breakfast and a five-course
tasting menu for two at restaurant La
GrandVigne. SOURCES-CAUDALIE.COM;

00 33 55783 8383

1. TARPAULIN LUGGAGE, 139.99, HIDEO


WAKAMATSU.CO.UK; 2. TROUBADOUR CHERRY
WOOD HEADPHONES, 150, LSTNHEADPHONES.CO.UK;
3 . P O L O S H I R T, 6 9 , A N D 4 . C L A S S I C S H O R T S ,
129, BOTH LOVEBRAND.COM; 5. CAR SHOE
DRIVING SHOES, 250, MRPORTER.COM;
6 . S T R AW T R I L B Y H AT, 7 9 , P A U L S M I T H . C O . U K

Escape civilisation at Little Toms Cottage


on idyllic Hawkes Bay overlooking Tuki Tuki
Valley in New Zealand. This bijou self-catering
hideaway has everything you need to set up
honeymoon home. Lie in bed and gaze out over
the rolling hills through the French doors or
soak in the alfresco woodre bathtub together.
Black Barn is the place to shop with its fantastic
farmers market, and then splash out at Le
Terroir restaurant at Craggy Range winery, the
insiders place to go for a sublime lunch. Hook
up with local cycling company On Your Bike and
cycle around the pristine beaches of Waimarama
and Ocean Beach, plentiful vineyards and
orchards, and enjoy a boozy lunch. If lunch
ends up dragging on a bit, you can call your
hosts and they will come and get you. Sevennights from 1,999 per person with car hire.
TURQUOISEHOLIDAYS.CO.UK;

01494 678 400

For romantic British hideaways, Rose Cottage


at the recently-refurbished Dormy House near
Broadway in the tranquil Cotswolds has its own
private garden and a quintessentially English air.
With its oral interiors by Todhunter Earle, this
is just the ticket for stress free honeymoons.
Their House Spa opens in February. From
300 per night including breakfast.
DORMYHOUSE.CO.UK;

01386 852 711

T RAVELLER PROM OT ION

twice

as nice
Two world-class resorts, one
unforgettable destination;
experience the Caribbean with
Viceroy Hotels and Resorts

owder-white sands framed by a rainforest


backdrop; your very own butler proffering
chilled Champagne; a private plunge pool with
views across the sparkling Caribbean Sea
such things dreams are made of. At Sugar Beach,
a Viceroy Resort in St Lucia, however, you can
actually live the dream.

Clockwise from
top: View from
Beachfront Villa
at Viceroy Riviera
Maya; Luxury Villa
bathroom at Sugar
Beach in St Lucia;
Pool area at Sugar
Beach; Interior of
an Ocean View
Villa at Viceroy
Riviera Maya

The resort is enviably set in more than 100 acres


of pristine rainforest within the UNESCO World
Heritage Site of the Pitons, the famed volcanic peaks
that give St Lucia its distinctive outline. Whether you
like to keep active or switch off completely, theres
plenty of space at Sugar Beach in which to spend
quality time with loved ones amidst the natural
beauty of St Lucia.

POWDER-WHITE SANDS
You can soak up the spectacular scenery while dining
at one of the waterfront restaurants, over cocktails at
sunset with your toes in the sand or as you relax
poolside. The supervised kids club and wide range of
activities, from scuba diving to volcano tours, will keep
the whole family happy, while couples enjoying a
romantic break are sure to fall for the resorts colonial
charms.
Romance is also in the air over at Viceroy Riviera
Maya on the Mexican coast. Hidden away in the
jungle and bordered by pristine beach, its no wonder
that this is one of the worlds nest places in which to
honeymoon. Its an all-villa resort, with no children
under 16 allowed, so privacy and peace are
paramount. Enjoy dinner deux anywhere, anytime
alfresco on the pier, perhaps, or on the beach

surrounded by candles with the gentle splash of the


ocean as your soundtrack. The indulgent spa offers a
variety of treatments just for two, from a Mayan
fertility ritual to a traditional blessing ceremony for
newlyweds. Or, of course, you could simply hide away
in your villa, with its private outdoor terrace and
plunge pool. What better way to start your

married life? From the rainforest of St Lucia


to the jungle of Mexico, whether with family
or that one special someone, the Viceroy
experience is world class.
For more information visit,
viceroyhotelsandresorts.com

T RAVELLER PROM OT ION

honeymoon

CLOCKWISE FROM THIS IMAGE:


SUITE AT SANTA MARINA RESORT
& VILLAS ON MYKONOS; POOL AT
CRILLON LE BRAVE IN PROVENCE;
SPA AT TERRE BLANCHE HOTEL,
ALSO IN PROVENCE

inimoons are a growing trend


with cash rich, time poor couples
tying the knot. They also
come in handy when you want
to take a longer honeymoon
later in the year. Provence has
all the elements of an exotic
honeymoon long balmy
summer days, a rich culture and
superb cuisine. Twenty-ve
miles northeast of Avignon,
Crillon Le Braves 32 rooms are woven through
the medieval buildings of a tiny village surrounded
by vineyards and olive groves. Delightful Room
33 has side-by-side, roll-top baths whilst Room 27
has a private terrace looking up to the sunset over
Mont Ventoux. Tandem bikes and Champagne
picnic hampers make for serene days out.
Doubles from 245 with breakfast.
CRILLONLEBRAVE.COM; 00 33 49065 6161

MINi
moons

TERRE-BLANCHE.COM; 00 33 49439 9600

City slicker couples will love the new Oberoi


Dubai for a winter sun stopover en route to
its sister resort in Mauritius. Right in the heart
of tax free shopping in Downtown Dubai, it
looks up to the Burj Khalifa, the worlds tallest
building. Each of the 252 rooms (thats boutique
size for Dubai) has a personal butler. Presidential
Suites have private plunge pools with outdoor
terraces for amazing city views. Ditto the views
from the vast outdoor innity pool. Indulge in
couples treatments in the spa and rare culinary
experiences at Umai, the Pan Asian restaurant,
with the UAEs only Fugu chef licensed to
prepare the legendary Japanese blowsh.
Doubles from 488 per night. OBEROIHOTELS.
COM; 00800 1234 0101

The celeb-magnet Greek Island of Mykonos is


a natty honeymoon escape these days. Santa
Marina Resort & Villas is a hot choice this
year. After a major renovation, 75 new rooms
and suites will be ready for honeymooners in
the summer. Deluxe suites will have panoramic
views of the sparkling Aegean, Ornos Bay and
neighbouring islands. Four-poster beds and extra
large bathrooms with round jacuzzi baths will

The new Viceroy New York rocks a downtown


vibe in a grown up location on West 57th Street
between 6th and 7th Avenues. Film noir was the
inspiration for guest rooms (many with Central
Park views) while in-room beats come courtesy
of Dr. Dre, and a smart phone app will even order
Champagne on your way back from a carriage
ride round Central Park. Doubles from 270.
VICEROYHOTELSANDRESORTS.COM; 00 1 212 830 8000

If you fancy a larger hotel, Terre Blanche Hotel


Spa Golf Resort is quite large with two golf
courses and an impressive spa, yet it still manages
to focus on the Provenal way of life; things
like nougat at bedtime and a boules-playing
concierge. Villa Mditerrane here is the perfect
one-bedroom villa with private pool. Borrow the
coccinelle (convertible) vintage car for romantic
drives through lavender elds and vineyards
to Verdon Canyon and the Esterel Mountains.

her POP-UP WARDROBE


1.

2.

Doubles from 250 including breakfast.

4.

3.
1 . S T R AW H AT, 1 8 5 , P A U L S M I T H . C O . U K ; 2 . G L I T T E R
BALLET PUMPS, 180, FRENCHSOLE.COM; 3.CLEVER
CANVAS TOTE BAG, 149, LOVEBRAND.COM;
4. SARONG, 99, PAULSMITH.CO.UK

be ready and waiting. For seaside pampering,


the Lotus Spa has a new spa cabin right on
the private sandy beach. The Bayview Beach
Restaurant & Bar is the place to dine on seafood
and Mediterranean creations with a fusion of
Japanese cuisine and sushi, or get the staff to set
you up a candlelit dinner on the moonlit beach.
Seven-nights from 795 per person with
breakfast. CARRIER.CO.UK; 0161 492 1357

T RAVELLER PROM OT ION

ISLAND idyll

Love is all you need at Soneva Fushi, Maldives;


theyll make sure the rest is taken care of

Clockwise from main


image: Wedding
ceremony at Soneva
Fushi; Honeymoon
dhow cruise; Cuisine
from Fresh in the Garden

ong swathes of white sandy beaches to walk


along hand in hand, unrivalled spectacular
sunsets on which to gaze whilst sipping
sundowners, and the calming rhythmic sound
of waves lapping. There are few places as romantic
as a desert island, but even fewer that cater for
loved-up couples needs quite like Soneva Fushi.
From proposal to honeymoon, this Maldivian gem
will help you create memories that last a lifetime.

As the original desert island hideaway, Soneva Fushi


is the archetypal barefoot luxury resort. Providing the
perfect backdrop for any romantic holiday, Soneva
Fushi, makes the most of its uniquely beautiful
surroundings. The colourful coral reef encircling the
island (a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve), makes a
superb spot for a proposal; it is not unheard of for
the resort to arrange for the engagement ring to be
tethered to the seaoor for an impromptu underwater
proposal, and you may even bump into the odd
bottlenose dolphin whilst you are down there.

BAREFOOT LUXURY
Always dreamed of a beach wedding? Then it
couldnt get better than starting your life together on
one of the worlds nest beaches looking out to the
endless ocean beyond. And you can rest assured that
your big day will be taken care of by your own
dedicated wedding planner. And afterwards, celebrate
with dinner deux under a canopy of Maldivian stars.
Then spend the rest of your time relaxing in your
villa. Want your friends and family there? Worry not,
as Soneva Fushi has some of the largest villas in the
Indian Ocean with up to eight bedrooms.

And thats not all. Newlyweds can enjoy


couples massages, private dolphin
cruises at sunset, wine and chocolate
tasting, and you can even name a star
after your loved one in the Observatory.
If youre drawn to even more exotic
settings then Soneva Fushis sister resort,
Soneva Kiri, is where Thailands jungle canopy opens
onto pristine sun-drenched beaches, a place that feels
remote even though its just one hour by private plane
from Bangkok. And no visit would be complete here
without an intimate meal in the resorts tree-top dining
pod.
No matter where you decide to go, all of the Soneva
Groups resorts incorporate their important SLOW
LIFE philosophy (Sustainable, Local, Organic,
Wellness - Learning, Inspiring, Fun, Experiences);
an extraordinary example of how luxury and
sustainability go hand in hand, allowing for
memorable experiences that dont cost the
earth. And whats not to love about that?
For more information visit soneva.com

reader offer
Readers can stay in a Crusoe Villa from
$1,050 per night or a Crusoe Villa with
Pool with prices start from $1,175 for a
minimum stay of 4 nights. This price
also includes daily breakfast for two,
Champagne on arrival, one candlelit
dinner during stay, one sunrise breakfast
at the sandbank during stay. Just quote
'CNTH1' when booking. Valid from
1 February 30 June 2014. Subject
to availability, terms and conditions
and black-out dates apply. Contact
reservations-fushi@soneva.com
to book. Terms and conditions apply.

T RAVELLER PROM OT ION

honeymoon

QKuoni
KUONI.CO.UK

QOnly Exclusive Travel


ONLYEXCLUSIVETRAVEL.COM

QThe Turquoise
Holiday Company
TURQUOISEHOLIDAYS.CO.UK

QOriginal Travel
ORIGINALTRAVEL.CO.UK

QAbercombie & Kent


ABERCROMBIEKENT.CO.UK
QTrailnders
TRAILFINDERS.COM
QITC Classics
ITCCLASSICS.CO.UK

DIRECTORY

QAmpersand

AMPERSANDTRAVEL.COM

QScott Dunn
SCOTTDUNN.COM
QGreaves India
GREAVESINDIA.CO.UK

QCarrier
CARRIER.CO.UK

QHayes and Jarvis


HAYESANDJARVIS.CO.UK

QBlack Tomato
BLACKTOMATO.COM

QCox and Kings


COXANDKINGS.CO.UK

QBeach Tomato
BEACHTOMATO.COM

QAfrica Travel
AFRICATRAVEL.CO.UK

QExsus
EXSUS.COM

QRed Savannah
REDSAVANNAH.COM

QCazenove and Loyd


CAZLOYD.COM

QElegant Resorts
ELEGANTRESORTS.CO.UK

QBailey Robinson
BAILEYROBINSON.COM

QFrontier Travel
FRONTIER-TRAVEL.CO.UK

QAudley Travel
AUDLEYTRAVEL.COM

Q101 Honeymoons
101HONEYMOONS.CO.UK

MAALIFUSHI BY COMO
IS THE FIRST LUXURY
MALDIVES BOUTIQUE
HOTEL ON THE THAA
ATOLL. THE ISLAND
IS REACHED BY A
50-MINUTE SEAPLANE
FLIGHT FROM MAL,
THE ISLANDS CAPITAL

BEFORE YOU GO ANYWHERE, VISIT CNTRAVELLER.COM

WHERE TO GO IN 2014

PHOTOGRAPH: DAVID CROOKES

+THE HOTTEST DESTINATION PICKS OF THE YEAR


+HOW TO PLAN YOUR HOLIDAY DATES
+FITNESS BREAKS TO MAKE A RESOLUTION FOR

NEWS AND FEATURES EVERY DAY + GUIDES AND INSPIRATION


ASK THE EXPERTS +TRAVEL ADVICE AND ITINERARIES + SECRET DEALS

Like us at www.facebook.com/cntraveller

Follow us at www.twitter.com/cntraveller

W
OST
WANTED
W

loves
THE

THEA DARRICOTTE uncovers your world

LUXURY

Theo Fennell's latest collection


of jewels is inspired by wildlife
and artfully uses stones such
as morganite, aquamarine and
diamonds to form delicate
hummingbirds and tropical sh.
Theofennell.com

TOP OF THE TREE


This Festive Collection of 10
miniature-sized therapeutic
blends (including my current
favourite, the Inner Strength
Bath and Shower oil) from
Aromatherapy Associates
not only smell divine,
they also come in ightfriendly 3ml bottles. 35,
aromatherapyassociates.com

Frank Sinatras
tipple of choice was
Jack Daniels: you
can now toast this
relationship with
Sinatra Select, a
special-edition
Tennessee whiskey
with a silky smooth
vanilla nish. 150,
jackdaniels.com

Bulgaris Diva
Collection is inspired
by Elizabeth Taylors
make-up in Cleopatra;
each piece is just
as playful and
showstopping as the
actress was in the role.
Bulgari.com

Groom for improvement


Thanks to MRPORTER.COM and its new ber-cool
grooming range, it has never been easier for men to look
perfectly polished wherever they are in the world.
MR PORTER has picked the essential items a man needs
to look after himself from brands such as Aesop, Baxter of
California and D.R. Harris items can be purchased
individually or in carefully curated sets to make life even
easier. mrporter.com

Going nuts In need of hydration? Jax Cocos new edition is the


world's rst 100% pure sparkling coconut water even better,
it's fat-free and naturally isotonic with essential electrolytes to
support rapid hydration. Jaxcocoshop.com
FOOD & DRINK

EXPERIENCE

THE NEW IPHONE5C IS BRIGHT IN MORE WAYS


THAN ONE. TAKING ITS COLOURFUL CASE
ASIDE, THE A6 CHIP POWERING IT DELIVERS A
FANTASTICALLY FAST PERFORMANCE WHILE
THE ISIGHT CAMERA ORGANISES PHOTOGRAPHS
INTO YEARS, COLLECTIONS AND MOMENTS. THE
PANORAMA FEATURE LETS YOU CAPTURE EPIC
SHOTS LIKE THAT TRIP TO THE GRAND CANYON
WITH ONE SWEEPING MOTION OF THE PHONE.
FROM 469, APPLE.COM/UK

Mark 30 years of Ralph Lauren


Home by lighting this leopardprint candle: the fruity, festive
scent has notes of redcurrant,
juniper and evergreen.
60, ralphlaurenhome.com

WRAPPED AROUND YOUR FINGER


The latest creations from Tamara Comolli are these sinuous Lace Rings which are as
beautiful as they are tactile. LACE Rings, 18K gold with 0.50cts white diamonds,
each 8,690, tamaracomolli.com

W
W
TRAVEL

With a global array of villas


hand-picked for their wow factor,
CV Travel is an essential addition
to any little black book. To pick
one? Try the Monte do Cacador
in the Algarve, which has a heated
pool and ample space for yoga
sessions, not to mention a tennis
court (and a tennis coach on
request). Cvtravel.co.uk

In New York this winter? Make sure to stop


by THE STANDARD HIGH LINE's
3,000sq ft ice-skating rink in the heart of the
Meatpacking district. There's a rather handy
Skate Haus in case you need to rent skates
or indulge in wafes, crpes and a multitude
of heartwarming drinks including (for some
Dutch courage) Glhwein. Standardhotels.
com/new-york-city

LIP SERVICE
Festivities are in full swing at
Brown's Hotel in London where
Lulu Guinness has designed the
Christmas tree. The designer was
inspired by her recent collections
and will also be adding signature
touches such as Dali-esque lips for
a surrealist twist. Brownshotel.com

GROOMING

If your little princess is in need of


a party dress this season, Harrods
has the answer. The new collection
from MISCHKA AOKI is exclusive
to Harrods: amongst its exquisite
designs are this limited-edition
Royal Highness Dress which is
embellished with over 1,000 Swarovski
crystals and guaranteed to make any
little diva smile on Christmas Day.
Harrods.com

LUXURY

Travelling with a bottle of KRUG Grand


Cuve has never been more elegant or
secure now that the Champagne house has
collaborated with Moynat, known for its
luxury luggage and travel accessories, to
create this beautiful, discreet leather case.
Krug Grand Cuve bottle and leather cover
by Moynat 1,700, +44 20 7808 4473

IT HAD TO BE YUYU Feeling the chill this winter? The


YUYU Bottle uses softer rubber than traditional hot-water bottles,
and has a high quality cashmere or merino-wool nish with motherof-pearl buttons. From 69, YUYUbottle.com

NO MORE (PYJAMA) DRAMAS


Laurence Tavernier is famed for
its sumptuous fabrics and these
jim-jams are no exception. Exclusive
to the Monogrammed Linen Shop,
they are irresistibly soft and can be
personalised with your initials.
Monogrammedlinenshop.com

FASHION

SW1: WHERE IT'S AT


Looking for a new camera?
The new Nikon 1, SW1 camera
is not only beautiful but
shockproof, freeze-proof
and waterproof, so can take
pictures in whatever climate
you throw at it. 749.99

Dream Destinations

EUROPE-UK
LA SABLONNERIE HOTEL. A convivial
corner of a beautiful island. Gorgeous
gardens, peace and tranquillity, birds,
butteries, owers, horses and carriages
no cars how could one not enjoy this
amazing paradise? You will nd this hotel
to have a great joie de vivre as well as
terric food. La Sablonnerie has recently
received the highly coveted award from
Cond Nast Johansen - Small Hotel of
the Year. Visit www.sablonneriesark.com
or call 01481 832 061.

MELDRUM HOUSE. Set amidst beautiful


countryside, The 4 Gold Star Meldrum
House Country Hotel & Golf Course offers
unrivalled quality. For a weekend break,
Scottish wedding reception, conference or
luxury golf vacation, you can enjoy great
hospitality, ne dining and the tranquillity of
the magnicent Meldrum Estate. T: 01651
872294. Web: www.meldrumhouse.com

OSEA ISLAND Charming


Accommodation 45 miles from central
London. Enjoy The Manor House (sleeps
20), The Captains House (sleeps 16), an
array of period cottages or contemporary
apartments. Find yourself captivated by its
natural beauty. Facilities include a Tennis
court, swimming pool, sauna, and gym.
For more information please contact us on
01621 788593,
reception@oseaisland.co.uk
www.oseaisland.co.uk

THE BULL HOTEL. Easy-going and


bursting with life this 16th century
coaching inn oozes eclectic style and
contemporary rustic charm with two
award-winning restaurants, cider house
and cocktail bar in the heart of Bridport
near the Jurassic Coast in West Dorset.
Call 01308 422878 or visit
thebullhotel.co.uk
A Room With A View is in a prime spot
on Brighton seafront. All rooms have
views over the beach, each beautifully
finished to a high spec with crme dcor,
oak floors, blond wood furniture and local
art. Book direct for free parking or
complimentary locally made chocolates.
Call 01273 682 885, or visit
www.aroomwithaviewbrighton.com
Ffynnon Boutique Accommodation.
Perfect for a chic country escape or
luxurious retreat, this sumptuous
accommodation in Wales has all the modcons and lavish treats of the best
boutique hotels and adds personal
hospitality, an intimate atmosphere and
stunning Snowdonia scenery. Tel: 01341
421774. www.ffynnontownhouse.com

Dream Destinations

EUROPE
La Baronnie Hotel & Spa*** proposes
some exceptional packages to give you
the opportunity to discover the charming
Ile de R. In October: for 3 nights stay, 1
night is offered and we offer
complimentary breakfast during
weekdays Private parking / No smoking.
Tel:+33 546 092 129;
www.hotel-labaronnie.com

HERITAGE LISBON HOTELS


Live the Portuguese Charm and Tradition
in the Historic Centre of Lisbon. Stay in
one of the 5 Heritage Lisbon Hotels
Collection As Janelas Verdes, Heritage
Avenida Liberdade Hotel, Hotel Britania,
Hotel Lisboa Plaza and Solar Do Castelo
Tel: +351 213 218 200
heritage.hotels@heritage.pt
www.heritage.pt
VILLA ROSA HOTEL 4* LAKE GARDA in
Desenzano will amaze you with a unique
style, luxurious, informal atmosphere,
combining the touch of an old
neoclassical lakeside villa with a sparkling
modernity. It offers lake-facing rooms,
outdoor pool and the Rose & Sapori
Restaurant, winner of numerous awards.
www.villarosahotel.eu
Tel +39 0309141974

Waltz through period rooms and centuries


of history in this noble Italian villa an
enchanting hotel by the Venetian village of
Arcade. The Count and Countess still relish
holidays in their family home, lapped by
lush parkland on the vine-clothed fringes of
the Montello hills. Mirela will explain its
history, from gatherings by Italy's nobles
and artists to the ravages of WWI. Explore
exquisite rooms of family treasures, ornate
mirrors, open res, coffee tables on dainty
tiptoes, studded leather seats, candles
ickering and tall clocks chiming. Roam
beautiful landscaped grounds before a
breakfast of freshly baked goodies by
Mirela's mother. Or take breakfast in bed
and digest the tree-lined avenues and 18th
century statues, fancy topiary and wroughtiron gates topped by family coats of arms.
Numerous cosy bedrooms are classically
dressed in shades of olive, khaki and wood.
A stylish pizzeria in the old wine cellar
offers organic pizzas; the honesty bar a
range of tipples to sip in the conservatory.
Strike out to Cornuda and Asolo, Treviso,
Venice... or stay and indulge. Call +39
0422.720078 or visit
www.relaisbarcozonca.com.
CASA MONTANI is a luxury guesthouse in
the heart of Rome, overlooking the
prestigious Porta del Popolo. Its ve rooms
and exclusive new apartment are beautifully
furnished with the best Italian and French
brands. The atmosphere is very personal
with breakfast served in your room the
perfect haven to stay in while you explore
the city. www.casamontani.com Tel: +39
063 260 0421.

ZURICH
HOTEL RESTAURANT HELVETIA
The boutique hotel Helvetia with its 16
individually furnished rooms is a real jewel
among the citys hotels. The family-run
and individual hotel and restaurant offer a
home from home to business travellers,
city explorers and Zurich lovers alike.
Phone: 0041 (0)44 297 99 98
Web: www.hotel-helvetia.ch

HOTEL CLAUDE MARBELLA is a


luxurious boutique hotel, set inside a
meticulously restored 17th-century
townhouse. Perfectly placed in the heart
of Marbellas Old Town. Experience this
former artists club with its 7 uniquely
styled rooms, restaurant, patios and roof
terraces. www.hotelclaudemarbella.com
Email: info@hotelclaudemarbella.com
Tel.: +34 952 900 840.

Dream Destinations

NORTH AMERICA

The Baker House 1650s luxurious and


relaxing environment makes it the ideal
home away from home in East Hampton,
New York. On offer is a range of amenities
including breakfast daily, local beach
access, spa treatments, and concierge
services to cater to every guests needs.
T: 631.324.4081 or email
info@bakerhouse1650.com.

Dream Destinations

AFRICA & INDIAN OCEAN


RIAD KHEIRREDINE. Charming riad in
the heart of the Medina of Marrakech.
Italian management, attention to detail,
all that a traveller can wish in terms of
comfort, style and hospitality with
attention to each guest.
www.riadkheirredine.com, 00212 524
386 364, infos@riadkheirredine.com

TOMTOM SUITES. A lovingly restored


former convent, Tomtom Suites The Old
Franciscan House is a small luxury hotel
with 20 suites hidden in the central district
of Istanbul. The contemporary interiors
include original artwork and a rooftop
restaurant with views of the Bosphorus
within easy access of the Blue Mosque and
Taksim Square. www.tomtomsuites.com
+90 212 292 49 49

Amsterdam Boutique Apartments are


self catering design apartments located in
a monumental canal house (1790).
Theyre a minutes walk from the oating
ower market and around the corner from
Spui you couldnt be more in the center
of the historical city. Visit
www.amsterdamboutiqueapartments.com
or call +31 20 7077954.

Set in Andalucias largest natural park,


MOLINO RIO ALAJAR offers freedom in
a rural paradise. Choose from 6 houses
on the estate and walk, swim, play tennis,
taste the local gourmet cuisine or enjoy
the sun. Visit www.molinorioalajar.com or
call +34 959 501282.

BUONANOTTE GARIBALDI is a
charming B&B in Rome that embraces
you from the moment you step through
the gate to a patio of Orange trees and
Magnolia. Owner and Fiber Artist Luisa
Longo has a sophisticated touch in dcor;
visitors can buy her silks and hand
painted screens. Tel +39 06 58330733.
www.buonanottegaribaldi.com

CASA LA CONCHA, a beautiful finca


situated in the stunning Marbella
countryside just minutes from Puerto
Banus. An Old Andalusian residence, it
has been exquisitely renovated into a large
main house and 5 luxury cottages. Relax
in the living room with a drink, enjoy a
good book from their library or go explore
the hidden treasures of Marbella. Visit
www.casalaconcha.com or call +34 646
520 883.

THE ZANZIBAR COLLECTION


Exotic, Luxurious, Zanzibar!
The Zanzibar Collection is a privately
owned collection of beautiful boutique
hotels inspired by the magic of Zanzibar,
lying on one of the Top 30 Island beaches
in the world. Offering a range of water
sports, stunning spas and East Africas
only National Geographic afliated PADI 5
star Dive Centre. Baraza Resort and Spa
was chosen as one of the Worlds 60
Best New Hotels on the Conde Nast
Hotlist 2012.
www.thezanzibarcollection.com

WINCHESTER MANSIONS is an iconic


building on the seafront in Cape Town
within close proximity to the V&A
Waterfront and Cape Town International
Airport. This landmark hotel offers
classically elegant rooms boasting sea or
mountain views. Facilities include a pool,
Ginkgo Spa, signature dishes from
Harveys restaurant and full service
conferencing.
Tel: +27 (0)21 434 2351
Fax: +27 (0)21 434 0215
Email: traveller@winchester.co.za
Web: www.winchester.co.za
Now from only 99 per room B&B

Dream Destinations

AUSTRALASIA & OCEANIA


THE HUKA RETREATS
www.hukaretreats.com
Three sister properties in South Africa, Fiji
and New Zealand chic and understated
statements of exclusivity and seclusion, all
offering an exceptional hospitality experience
to the worlds most discerning travellers.
GRANDE PROVENCE ESTATE, South
Africa, is located within a one-hour drive
from Cape Town. This 300-year old heritage
estate offers award-winning wines, cuisine
and art gallery with superb accommodation
at The Owners Cottage and La Provenale.
T +27 (0)21 876 8600
E reservations@grandeprovence.co.za
DOLPHIN ISLAND, Fiji offers 14-acres of
Pacific private island beauty, romance and
luxury castaway time for a max. of 8
guests, on an exclusive-use basis.
HUKA LODGE, New Zealand, is famed for
its natural beauty, legendary hospitality and
absolute style since the 1920s. With just
25 rooms within 17-acres of manicured
grounds.
Contact: T +64 7 378 5791
E reservations@hukalodge.co.nz
for both Huka Lodge & Dolphin Island
reservations.

CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING FEATURE

The Luxury Gift Guide


1

3
4

6
7

1. COUNTRY ATTIRE is the home of British style online, offering hand-picked brands, heritage and contemporary, paired with
quintessentially British service. Now launching their resort collections with luxury brands such as Heidi Klein (featured above
Caicos One Piece Swimsuit 199.95), Zimmermann, Melissa Odabash and Hoss Intropia. Visit their website
www.countryattire.com to view the collections or call on 08435 077 007.
2. METAXA 12 Stars is the superior expression of the METAXA Stars Range. It embraces precious wine distillates, aged patiently
in French Limousin oak casks, and exquisite Muscat wines exclusively from the Aegean island of Samos, where grapes grow on
garden-sized, terrace vineyards and are picked only by hand. A secret bouquet of May roses and Mediterranean herbs tops off this blend, created by the Metaxa Master Constantinos
Raptis. METAXA 12 Stars is extraordinarily complex in aromas and rewarding on the palate, while it features elegant notes of toffee, chocolate and orange peel. Enjoy METAXA 12 Stars
neat or on a single rock. Visit www.metaxa.com or call +32 2 209 0825 for more information. Available at Amathus: www.amathusdrinks.com113-117 Wardour Street London and 17-19
Leadenhall Market London, Hedonism: www.hedonism.co.uk 3-7 Davies St, London, 020 7290 7870 and Mazi: www.mazi.co.uk 12-14 Hillgate Street, London 020 7229 3794.
3. Essential nail care tool by MONT BLEU is a high-quality crystal nail file made from Czech tempered glass. Their brand provides finest GLASS NAIL FILES decorated with Luxurious
Swarovski Elements. Unique production technology along with chic decoration comes as one glamorous nail care tool. Enjoy special 15% off with promo code TRAVEL. Available at
www.design-glassware.com or call 00 42 0241 405 918 for more information. (valid until 28.02.2014).
4. TRU VIRTU presents the BELUGA and OYSTER. The first of their kind and both offer a modern and intelligent alternative to the outdated leather version. They are the only
aluminium wallets worldwide for a safe storage of credit and business cards, receipts, coins and a large amount of banknotes. This intelligent product allows men and women to carry all
their daily essentials well protected in an aluminium shell that combines resistance and lightness. TRU VIRTU protects against nasty RFID-scanning an illegal detection of personal data
and information saved on your credit card one of the leading causes of identity theft. Enter promo code TVCNT10 to receive 10% off all Tru Virtu products (expires 30th December
2013). Visit www.stonemarketing.com or call 01732 771 771.
5. BLUE VELVET the home of contemporary and classic footwear direct from the heart of Europe. Always one step ahead, they have established themselves on their quality and first-rate
service. Visit them at: 174 Kings Road, SW3 4UP or call 020 7376 7442. Visit them online: www.bluevelvetshoes.com
6. HIDEO WAKAMATSU Luggage for the sophisticated and discerning jetsetter. Introducing the Muscular Range so-called because of its amazing strength and durability. This
remarkable range is made of high-tech Panlite, a patented material that offers high impact resistance. This case will easily withstand the stresses and strains of travel. While the case is
tough, once you lift it, youll be amazed at how lightweight it is. The frame and matching telescopic handle are anodised, satin-finish aluminium. Pictured is the Small (279.99) and
Medium (319.99) Visit www.hideowakamatsu.co.uk for more information and to view the full range.
7. GITZO OCEAN TRAVELLER The ultimate photographic travelling companion, the Ocean range is built for professional performance, maintenance-free durability and resistance against
seawater, humidity and other aggressive natural environments. Precision-tooled aluminium parts have a corrosion-resistance finishing, while specially redesigned G-Lock leg collars
protect each single section of 6X carbon fibre leg tube against sand, dust and mud. GK1582OT, 999. www.gitzo.co.uk
8. New fashion accessories brand SNOODYDO has launched its debut collection of hats, scarves, gloves and snoods for Winter 13. Ranges available for Men, Ladies, Girls & Boys.
Pictured are the Tyler hat (RRP 19.99) and Tyler Scarf (RRP 24.99). Visit www.snoodydo.com and enter code CONDESD01 to receive a 10% discount.
9. Bespoke, beautiful, hand-made pieces are all created within the UK but XANTHE MARINA also takes inspiration from her travels, especially the delights of the Caribbean. These
designs are reflected in her collection: Seashells & Water for more information please call 07768 263198 or visit www.xanthemarina.com

CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING FEATURE

The Luxury Gift Guide


10

13

12

11

14

10. This selection box of handmade 100% natural artisan soaps from SOAK YOURSELF are the perfect gift for that
someone special. Using only the highest quality ingredients (organic where possible), this British brand takes extra
special care to ensure that each soap and selection box is packed with love and attention. Available online at
www.soakyourself.co.uk Tel: 01494 415710.
11. NEW LEICA X VARIO Made in Germany, and machined from the finest materials, it features a wide-angle to
telephoto zoom lens making it ideal for high performance travel photography. Now available with a leather camera protector and carrying strap, from Leicas
Flagship Store in Mayfair or their new Company Store in Burlington Arcade. Tel 020 7629 1351 or www.leica-storemayfair.co.uk
12. HUGS & CO footwear bring you the finest suede mens driving shoes made in Portugal with hand stitched toes and soft leather linings. A range of fantastic
colours and different styles are available from the online store www.hugsandco.com The perfect footwear for relaxing on your winter break in the sunshine.
Dont forget free first class signed for shipping is available on all UK orders.
13. BON VOYAGE KIDS is a one stop holiday shop for children stocking everything from stylish swimwear to sun cream. Items are stocked all year round so
you can pick up those holiday essentials no matter when you travel www.bonvoyagekids.co.uk
14. HARLETTE presents its first SWIM collection, launched in Paris. Featuring made with Swarovski Elements, the collection gives a truly luxurious swim
experience. Whether poolside at the Burj Al Arab in Dubai or the Chateau Marmont in Hollywood, beachside in Bermuda, Bondi, Cannes, Ibiza or Positano,
no one will have a one piece or bikini as fashion forward as your SWIM by Harlette. Visit www.harlette.com to view the full collection.

To advertise within On The Move... please call 020 7499 9080 ext 3705

CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING FEATURE

On The Move...
Snow Adventure

Cond Nast January Special


Receive a bottle of sparkling
wine in your room at arrival
as well as a free lunch on our
sun terrace or in our cosy
restaurant

6580 ST. CHRISTOPH AM ARLBERG


AUSTRIA
+43(0) 5446 2804
STAY@MAIENSEE.COM

WWW.MAIENSEE.COM

CHALET

******

OBERLECH

Oberlech50 , A-6764Le cha m Arlberg


Phone: +43 (0) 55 83 / 37 900

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On The Move...
To A Culinary
Experience

Combine delicious Italian food and culture with luxury 5* Masseria


accommodation on this 7 night cookery holiday, where you will learn to
cook traditional Italian dishes using organic produce from the farm.
For more information please call
0044 (0)7748960818
or visit www.italiancookeryholiday.com

On The Move...
To a Villa
Retreat

CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING FEATURE

CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING FEATURE

To advertise within On The Move... please call 020 7499 9080 ext 3705

On The Move...
To a Villa Retreat

The most desirable villas


in Sicily

The most desirable villas


in Lefkada & Meganissi

www.ThinkSicily.com | 020 7377 8518


Brought to you by The Thinking Traveller

www.ThinkIonianIslands.com | 020 7377 8518


Brought to you by The Thinking Traveller

Islands

Some of the finest villa


rentals in Tuscany
by Tuscany Now

HAND-PICKED VILLAS
SOUGHT-AFTER LOCATIONS
TAILOR MADE SERVICE

To book your luxury villa holiday call us


now on 020 7563 7993 or view our full
portfolio at www.cvtravel.co.uk

+44 207 684 8884


tuscanynow.com

CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING FEATURE

On The Move...
To a Villa Retreat

A COLLECTION OF THE FINEST VILLAS IN GREECE

www.WhiteKeyVillas.com

We have the nest villas in


the Algarve and Tuscany

Tel: 01522 889450

www.sun-hat-villas.com

CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING FEATURE

On The Move...
To a Villa Retreat
HOLIDAYS COLLECTION

Over 300 hand-picked holiday villas, cottages


and apartments throughout the UK and Europe

To advertise within On The Move... please call 020 7499 9080 ext 3705

www.signatureholidays.uk.com I 0800 111 6106

TUSCANY
MONTE ARGENTARIO
Luxury Villa Rentals

Property Sales

For further information, please call 020 8246 6123


www.isolarossa.co.uk

Handpicked &
personally inspected
villas in the Caribbean

The experts on every property

Toll Free UK: 0845 528 0209


info@exceptionalvillas.com

www.exceptionalvillas.com

CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING FEATURE

On The Move...
To a Villa Retreat
INCREDIBLE VILLAS

Private Luxury
Mediterranean Villa
Sleeps 12 people
www.privatevillaspollensa.com
ref VP90

Distinctive
Holiday Rentals
in Europe,
Morocco and
Thailand
PRIVATE PROPERTIES ABROAD
enquiries@ppaproperties.com
Tel: +44 (0) 1423 330533
www.ppaproperties.com

FRANCE N ITALY N SPAIN N CARIBBEAN


01242 787 800 N  www.redsavannah.com

WELCOME TO THE
ULTIMATE LUXURY
VILLA COLLECTION
YOUR GREAT ESCAPE
STARTS HERE

www.oliverstravels.com
CALL US ON 0845 389 9582

ABTA No. P1463

CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING FEATURE

On The Move...
To Africa and the Indian Ocean

Chilax
To advertise within On The Move... please call 020 7499 9080 ext 3705

Treat yourself to a beach holiday in Africa


4EL s+44 1865591097
info@pulseafrica.com s www.pulseafrica.com

WILDLIFE ADVENTURES AWAIT

www.simonsays.co.za / 5783

Award-winning wildlife reserves with 5-star lodges in South Africa Free-roaming


Big 5, bird watching & flora experiences Game drives &
photographic safaris Family-friendly facilities with
Kids on Safari 3 Explorer Camps 2 day walking
safaris in Big 5 territory, sleeping in mobile
tents Gap year, field guide training
& Shamwari conservation
courses

www.shamwarigroup.com
T: +27 (0)41 509 3000
reservations@shamwarigroup.com

Kasbah Bab Ourika

Bab Ourika perches majestically on a hilltop at the apex of


the Ourika Valley, guarding the gateway to the snow-capped
Atlas Mountains yet it is only 45 minutes from Marrakechs
International airport. With 360 degree panoramic views, this
innovative new hotel receives warm sunlight all day, ending in
spectacular sunsets. From its unique eyrie-like position it
offers a birds eye view of the Atlas, of traditional Berber
villages and of the lush river valley below.

t. +27 (0) 42 246 1539


e. marketing@ibamba.co.za
w. www.ibamba.co.za

www.kasbahbabourika.com
Tel: 00 212 661 634 234
bookings@kasbahbabourika.com

CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING FEATURE

On The Move...
To Africa and the Indian Ocean

Discover the
smiling coast

For a free brochure call

0845 330 2052


Gambia.co.uk

M A ASAI M AR A, K EN YA

SER ENGETI, TA NZ A NI A

reservations.mara@bushtopscamps.com
reservations.serengeti@bushtopscamps.com
www.orion-hotels.net
https://www.facebook.com/bushtops

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On The Move...
To the Caribbean

To advertise within On The Move... please call 020 7499 9080 ext 3705

Embrace the Surreal

The Dream, Barbados

Tortola, British Virgin Islands

mangomanor.com

mangol for 10% off


BARBADOS

LITTLE ARCHES BOUTIQUE HOTEL


This award-winning boutique hotel is nestled
on a hideaway bay adjacent to a flawless
white sand beach. The adult-only property
features intimate, al fresco dining in our
rooftop restaurant Cafe Luna. Personalized
service, understated style and romance will
define your stay at Little Arches.
Tel: 1-(246) 420 4689 Fax: 1-(246) 418 0207
Email: paradise@littlearches.com
Web: www.littlearches.com

Some of the worlds most luxurious private


rental Villas, Yachts and Real Estate at your
nger tips.

Telephone 0845 017 6707


www.worldwidedreamvillas.com

CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING FEATURE

On The Move...
Blue Poppy
Tours & Treks

Specialising in trips to Bhutan


Experience the beauty and culture of Bhutan, the last
Shangri-La, with Blue Poppy Tours and Treks based in
London and Bhutan
www.bluepoppybhutan.com
choki@bluepoppybhutan.com
020 7609 2029

A one of a kind museum of marble in Vila Viosa (Alentejo) a monumental


village of Portugal, with breath taking natural landscapes. All 45 rooms and
suites have individually designed marble bathrooms. The restaurant is a must
and one cannot miss the Spa.
Contact:
Largo Gago Coutinho, N11, 7160-214 Vila Viosa, Portugal
Email: reservas@alentejomarmoris.com
Phone: +351 268 887 010

CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING FEATURE

On The Move...

Stunning Sardinia
Villas, apartments & hotels
Order a free brochure

0844 248 1914

Sardinianplaces.co.uk

To advertise within On The Move... please call 020 7499 9080 ext 3705

ATOL 1866 | ABTA V5963

Enjoy the best


of Puglia
bestofpuglia.co.uk

Discover Corsica

BEAUTIFUL HOLIDAY VILLAS, COTTAGES


AND APARTMENTS THROUGHOUT EUROPE

Order a free brochure

Villas, apartments & hotels

0845 330 2060


Corsica.co.uk

ATOL 1866 | ABTA V5963

The Cleveland Tontine


An Historic Yorkshire Inn and Restaurant

Come and experience fine dining in warm and friendly surroundings


Stay in one of our seven luxury individually decorated bedrooms
w. www.theclevelandtontine.co.uk T: +44 (0)1609 882671
E: bookings@theclevelandtontine.co.uk

CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING FEATURE

On The Move...

info@alamandas.com
Tel +(52)322 285 5500

COTSWOLDS
COUNTRY PUB

LUXURY ROOMS

FINE BRITISH
SEASONAL CUISINE
Ilmington Road | Armscote | Stratford-upon-Avon | Warwickshire | CV37 8DD
twitter.com/fuzzyduckpub | facebook.com/fuzzyduckarmscote | 01608 682 635
www.fuzzyduckarmscote.com
www.fuzzyduckarmscote.com

www.alamandus.com
Skype: res.alamandas

CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING FEATURE

Award-winning
Holidays
Spain

CHILE TOURS
www.CasaAzulHotel.com
Tel: +52 (999) 925.50.16
Mrida, Yucatn

France

SOUTH AMERICA

Madeira

Travel

Mallorca

Portugal

A wonderful choice of
luxury and character hotels
across nine diversified
European countries; by air, sea,
rail or accommodation only.
Visit our website for
fantastic special offers
and holiday inspiration.

Tailor-made holidays in Chile,


Argentina, Peru, Brazil and Bolivia
Tel: 020 7730 5959
www.chiletours.org
Email: London.chiletours@btinternet.com

INDIA

Magical Mauritius...
are you ready to fall under its spell?

Guaranteed Sighting

Romance with the Taj

Bespoke tours on India, Burma, Vietnam and China.


GOA/KERALA 14 nights from 897 inc ights.
To travel in style call 020 7258 7800 or visit www.goaway.co.uk

Switzerland Germany

Italy

Cond Nast Traveller reminds you to ensure that when


booking a package holiday to check that the travel
company has arranged a bond, in order to provide
nancial security through a trade association
(eg ABTA), insurance, or a trust account.

Capri

To advertise within On The Move... please call 020 7499 9080 ext 3705

On The Move...

PARIS

A HIPSTERS GUIDE
TO THE CITY

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194 November 2013


South Africa  Berlin  Rome
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195 December 2013


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Restaurant with a view


WHERE ARE WE? VINH HY BAY, VIETNAM

TAKEN FROM THE CENTRAL PAVILION AT AMANOI


Because Aman Resorts new hotel, and rst in Vietnam, is set in the most unspoilt
pocket of the countrys east coast. There are a couple of hotel heavyweights
hooked up to the scene near Nha Trang (Six Senses and Evason) but until now there wasnt even a whisper about
gorgeous, under-the-radar Vinh Hy Bay, a two-hour drive further south. The road to get here is still being built
thats how remote it is which is exactly the joy of the place. Protective mountains on either side are covered in a
carpet of trees, like a complicated jigsaw puzzle of emerald glades and forest green, only broken up by a scattering of
villas peeking over the top. Designer Jean-Michel Gathy has perked up Amans grey-on-grey aesthetic with lots of
Asian touches in keeping with the surroundings (red Chinese lanterns hanging outside your villa, lacquered vintage
furniture in the main bar). Theres a Beach Club caf, with a proper-sized, slate-lined innity pool, curl of pale
yellow sand and views of glinting sea, just a winding buggy ride down the hill. But its up here at the restaurant in
the Central Pavilion that you get the knockout view. Sit right on the edge in the open air and feast on fresh shrimp
rice-paper rolls and the sweetest mango sorbet for pudding. Nothing much happens, in a good way. Crickets
chirp noisily in the background. A white buttery hovers over tiny purple wildowers. And every now and then a
sherman from the nearby village slowly rows past and out towards the horizon in search of squid.
Kick-start your morning with a before-breakfast yoga session in the
INSIDE TIP spas open-air pavilion, looking out onto the peaceful, lotus-ower-lled lake.
Amanoi (00800 2255 2626; www.amanresorts.com); pavilions from 538 per night. Vietnam Airlines
(www.vietnamairlines.com) offers the only direct ights from the UK to Vietnam, from 515 per person

WHY WE LOVE IT

188 Cond Nast Traveller January 2014

A Private Bank Account


with no hidden charges
Its what we do
Voyage by Investec is a current account with many features including travel and lifestyle
benets. Expect the highest standards of service and a healthy 1.51% AER* variable
interest rate paid monthly, whatever your balance. Giving you more. Its what we do.
500 annual fee applies.
Visit investec.co.uk/voyage

*Gross means the interest rate payable before the deduction of tax. AER stands for the Annual Equivalent Rate and illustrates what the interest rate would be if interest was paid and compounded
once a year. The AER is intended to be an indicative rate to help you compare the return on different savings products. Rates correct as at 15/05/13. Investec Specialist Bank is a part of
Investec Bank plc of 2 Gresham Street, London EC2V 7QP, which is registered in England under company number 489604. Investec Bank plc is authorised by the Prudential Regulation Authority and
regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority and the Prudential Regulation Authority and is a member of the London Stock Exchange.