7 LIFE-CHANGING TRIPS

(START IN SAINT LUCIA, P. 34)

E n thusia st Travel Since 1981

FIJI

JAPAN

GRENADA

WHY ARE THESE PEOPLE

ALWAYS SMILING?

EAT, DRINK, SLEEP AND LIVE

(A LOT) LONGER

WALK WITH THE HEALTHIEST

MAN WEVE EVER MET

P. 36

P. 48

P. 55

OR
JUST DISAPPEAR HERE
P. 67

THE

you LOOK
AT WHAT WE INCLUDE
THE

WE LOOK

UP TO 15 RESTAURANTS INCLUDED

Only at Sandals Resorts can you dine around

the world without leaving the resort, with up to
15 specialty restaurants per resort. Theyre all
included, all unlimitedand all delicious.

MORE QUALITY
INCLUSIONS THAN
A N Y OT H E R R E S O R T S
ON THE PLANET
CALL 1-800-SANDALS SANDALS.COM
*Greens fees included in Jamaica and Saint Lucia. Caddies are mandatory but not included.
At Sandals Emerald Bay, greens fees may be at an additional cost. For certified divers.
PADI dive courses and night dives additional. Sandals is a registered trademark.
Unique Vacations, Inc. is the affiliate of the worldwide representative of Sandals Resorts.

SCUBA DIVING
Only Sandals includes
unlimited scuba diving, with
two 1-tank dives, or one 2-tank
dive every day of your stay.

Sandals Grande St. Lucian

UNLIMITED GOLF

BEST BEACHES

BARS

Others may claim to offer golf, but

Sandals includes unlimited golf with
complimentary greens fees and roundtrip
transfers in Jamaica and Saint Lucia*.

ENTERTAINMENT

At Sandals, premium brand liquors are

always included, always unlimited, 24/7,
at up to nine bars per resort.

Nobody throws a party or puts on

a show like Sandals, with authentic
island shows and sizzling soirees.

Sandals knows the Caribbean

better than anyone. Thats
why our resorts are always
located on the calm side
of the island, protected by
offshore reefs. And that
means that our beaches are
always picture-perfect.

BUTLER ELITE
Sandals elevates personal
service, with butlers trained
by the Guild of Professional
English Butlers included in
top-tier suites.

WATERSPORTS
Sandals Resorts has the largest watersports
operation in the Caribbean. We even include
unlimited motorized watersports, top-of the-line
equipment, and complimentary instruction.

ROOMS & SUITES

Sandals offers the most unique suites in the
Caribbeanthey are so exotic, so luxurious and so
romantic, we had to call them Love Nest Dream Suites.

CONTENTS
DOMINICAN
REPUBLIC P. 18

JAPAN P. 48

Eat pork. Enjoy

whiskey. Dont think
too much. Writer
Joe Yogerst lives by
these words, having
visited the Ryukyus,
home to the oldest
humans on Earth.

Four staffers tested

20 all-inclusive
resorts in Punta
Cana. Now all they
talk about is how
TripAdvisor gets
them wrong.

GRENADA P. 55

Editor Robert Stephens lay in a fetal

position for days
after his last profile
on an island health
nut. So this time he
wrote about a spry
geezer and ... uh-oh.

MAUI P. 22

I know Hawaiian
Josh Stone from
when I lived on
Maui. I asked for
his top 5 Maui
to-dos for rookies.
I hadnt done
any of them.

mind forever. Inside Maui,

like wed never seen it.
Brace for the cost of bread
in St. John, and for the impact of rain in Nicaragua.

10

G ET H E RE
We doubt youll find this
Caribbean bay without our
help. Why Aruba is one
of our go-to islands for fall.
The truth about Punta
Canas all-inclusives.

20

L I F E H E RE
Think your daily chores are
tough? This will change your

32

WHERE TO FIND ...

A life full of pure happiness
in Fiji ... The intestinal fortitude youve been missing in
the Philippines ... Secrets
to a longer, better life in
Japan ... The healthiest man
weve ever met in Grenada
... Beach chairs, baths and our
ultimate travel lessons
from all over the world.

FIJI P. 36

Who is happier on
Fiji, a resorts guests
or its employees?
Contributor
Amanda Jones
knew the answer,
but whats behind it
still shocked her.

74
60

BEST PHOTOS
OF T H E Y E A R
Throw this magazine across
the room, all you owners
of Nikons with underwater
housings. From nearly 4,000
entries in our 25th annual
photo contest, the winner
is... ? Take a deep breath
before reading the story
behind this shot.

EDDY PATRICELLI

Islands brand director

shares his take on the
issue. P.S. This shot
wasnt his idea, but hes
traveling. Doh!

W H AT NOBODY
T E L L S YOU A BOU T
We learn some priceless
lessons during an overwater
bungalow stay in Tahiti.

67

ISL A N DS HOW TO
Disappear, almost literally,
into the trees, underwater
and into Hawaiis most covert spot. Live on a remote
isle within driving distance
to the mainland. Escape the
worlds bloodiest sport.

P. 70

ON THE COVER So m e wh e re i n th e Ma l d i ves ( exa c tl y wh e re i s a s ec ret ) . Ph o to b y Yu r i Arc u rs

ISLANDS.COM
4 ISLANDS

OCTOBER

TAKE YOUR DREAM

TRIP WITH US

(and shoot aMazing photos

to keep forever)

on aSSignment

2015

A 7-day cruise with Islands staff photographers and

Sail Windjammer to remote Caribbean outposts

M ay 10 -M ay 1 6 , 2 0 1 5
Special Offer: A limited number of passengers can sign up
for $2,479+ (your guest gets a rock-bottom discount).
C l a i m a S p o t: i S l a n d S .C o m / i o a

WEST INDIES

brand director

Eddy Patricelli

group publisher

executive editor

Laura Walker

Laura.Walker@bonniercorp.com

Eddy.Patricelli@bonniercorp.com

Robert Stephens

Robert.Stephens@bonniercorp.com

managing editor
digital content director
digital editor
copy editor
intern
contributing writers & photographers

art director
photo editor / social media editor
senior staff photographers

caribbean /mexico / europe

united states
caribbean
hawaii
hotels / vacation rentals
senior online producer
sales coordinator

vp, director of brand strategies

vp, digital operations
editorial director
creative director
consumer marketing director
group marketing director
marketing manager

corporate production director

Your next
great discovery

production director
production manager
design services director
graphic artists
human resources director

Welcome to St. Kitts, an enchanted

island of expansive rainforests,
stately Great Houses and remnants
of sugar plantations when
Sugar was King. This is St. Kitts.
Unspoiled Sanctuary of Inner
Beauty All yours to discover.

editorial
Audrey St. Clair
Steve Spears
Cami Webb
Kathleen M. Kiely
Bronwyn Knight
Jad Davenport, David LaHuta, Mathew Miller, Nathan Myers,
Amanda Jones, Jen Judge, R. Ian Lloyd, Alison Wright, Joe Yogerst
art
Jennifer Pileggi
Lori Barbely
Zach Stovall, Jon Whitle
advertising
Paula Iwanski, Advertising Director 407-571-4605; paula.iwanski@bonniercorp.com
Kelly Freygang, 407-571-4743; kelly.freygang@bonniercorp.com
Julie Kitredge, 813-877-6959; julie.kittredge@bonniercorp.com
Debbie Anderson, 808-739-2200; debbieanderson@dmhawaii.com
Leslie Parker, 407-571-4985; leslie.parker@bonniercorp.com
Jef Williams, 407-571-4787; jefrey.williams@bonniercorp.com
Tracey Voorhees, 407-571-4986; tracey.voorhees@bonniercorp.com

Mat Hickman
David Butler
Shawn Bean
David Weaver
Leigh Bingham
Haley Bischof
Lindsay Gigler
Jef Cassell
Michelle Doster
Alison Klein
Suzanne Oberholtzer
Julia Arana, Jennifer Remias
Sheri Bass

i s l a nds i s a d i v i s i o n o f

Jonas Bonnier
Dave Freygang
Eric Zinczenko
David Ritchie
Nancy Coalter
Lisa Earlywine
Elizabeth Burnham Murphy
Leslie Glenn
Sean Holzman
John Graney
John Reese
Perri Dorset
Jeremy Thompson

Chairman
Chief executive Ofcer
executive Vice president
Chief Content Ofcer
Chief Financial Ofcer
Chief Operating Ofcer
Chief Marketing Ofcer
Chief Human Resource Ofcer
Chief Brand Development Ofcer
Vice president, integrated sales
Vice president, Consumer Marketing
Vice president, public Relations
General Counsel

Only 3 hrs from MIA &

less than 5 hrs from JFK
b u s i n e s s a n d e d i to r i a l o ffi ce s

JFK

For content reprints, reuse and permissions, e-mail reprints@bonniercorp.com.

Occasionally, we make portions of our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that
ofer products and services we think may be of interest to you.
if you do not want to receive these ofers, please advise us at 800-250-1523.
We cannot be responsible for the care or return of unsolicited materials.

MIA

Basseterre

This product is from

sustainably managed forests
and controlled sources.

Visit www.StKittsTourism.kn for details

/StKittsTourism

460 N. Orlando Ave., Suite 200, Winter Park, FL 32789

@StKittsTourism

/MyStKitts

Lithography RR Donnelley
pRinTeD in usa

fo r cu s to m e r s e r v i c e a n d s u b s c r i p t i o n q u e s t i o n s ,
such as renewals, address changes, e-mail preferences, billing and account status, go to: islands.com/cs.
You can also e-mail isMcustserv@cdsfulfllment.com, in the u.s., call toll-free 800-250-1523, outside
the u.s., call 515-237-3697, or write to islands, p.O. Box 6364, Harlan, ia 51593.

THE FREEDOM TO

PLAY
YOUR WAY
Enjoy an ultimate family vacation
at Palladium Hotels & Resorts. Ideal
beach locations, kids clubs, a wide
selection of restaurant choices and
entertainment for all ages. Well
provide whatever your need to
experience the vacation of a lifetime.

KIDS STAY
FREE*
www.palladiumhotelgroup.com

Feel Free Its included

*Please contact your preferred tour operator for full details.
Some restrictions apply.

SPAIN | ITALY | MEXICO | DOMINICAN

/PalladiumHotelGroup

REPUBLIC | JAMAICA | BRAZIL

@PalladiumHG

ISLANDS NOW
WARMING YOU UP
DISPATCHES

ANGUILLA I belly up to a picnic

table on Sandy Island, a tiny cay
just a mile off the sugar shore, and
order a rum punch but receive a
Carib beer instead. Oh, well, bottoms up. Theres plenty of time for
rum punches later the only items
on my to-do list right now are: 1)
Eat an entire Caribbean lobster
and 2) Work on my sunburn.
Contributor Erika Hueneke
COOK ISLANDS After 18
hours en route to Aitutaki plane,
boat, bus, car Im craving a
shower. But wait. The South Pacific
is at my doorstep, so I climb down
the ladder from the dock below my
first-ever overwater bungalow.
Schools of snapper dart in a frenzy.
Waves roar in the distance, breaking a mile away from the lagoon.
Forget the shower. Its bathtime.
Contributor Holly V. Kapherr

A leisurely swim in sparkling

azure waters. A soothing massage
on your own private balcony.
An afternoon spent gazing at the
sun-splashed Atlantic with not
a cruise ship or a care in sight.
The Sands at Grace Bay offers
a soul-satisfying tranquility along
with inspired cuisine, considerate
service and as much or as little
activity as you choose.
U N S P O I L E D. U N C O M M O N.
U N P R E T E N T I O U S.

TAHITI Its the middle of the

night on the private Tahitian island
of Motu Teta (it took a 90-minute
boat ride from the remote Rangiroa
Airport to deliver me, just me, to
this distant speck, where a Motu
Teta host greeted me). Im standing
in waist-deep water with nothing
but a small headlamp to light my
way around the lagoon, hunting
lobster by hand, searching for their
iridescent orange eyes reflecting in
the shallows. Sharks cut through
the water around me. Albino eels
languish under the eerie silhouettes of the coral mounds. Its quiet
on this side of a petrified reef. My
adrenaline is pumping. Im alone
and very much alive. This is why I
travel. Photographer Jon Whittle

INSTAGRAM

follow us: islandsmag

#sunsetbarbados
I hear giggles. A sunset
here is never silent.

#thestruggleisreal
Plunge pool or ocean in
Jamaica? Both, please.

#betterthanshaveice
Shaka pops on Maui
are the real Hawaii.

Our Best Islands to

Live On issue and the
accompanying galleries
at Islands.com got you
talking on Facebook, to
us and to each other.
Mamie Lazarus
Moffett: I will
pass on retiring
in Roatan. A lot
going on there
now, especially
crime. Would
have to pick Cancun or
Cozumel instead.
Cyndi Warren responds:
Unless you live under a
rock on a deserted island,
youll have crime. I dont
know where you live, but
I bet you have a higher
murder rate. Roatan and
Belize have become expat
retirement dreams.
Tamara Tanner:
I have a bone to pick with
you, Islands editors. Well,
perhaps its only a grain of
sand. Your current issue
is filled with stunning stories of islands to move to,
but did you bother to look
at the real-estate prices
for each of those places?
Erin Silvering-Grey
responds: Ive seen homes
on the southern coast of
Belize listed from $80K
to $200K. For $250K
to $300K, you can get a
house on the water, and
yearly taxes are about $25.
Jan Myers: I raised
three kids on St. Thomas.
Wouldnt change it.

#happiness
Not just the name of a
boat here on Anguilla.

Providenciales Turks & Caicos

BRING BACK

an exceptional all suite

beachfront resort

After getting schooled on natural cures

during a walk in Grenadas wild (page 55),
I take a walk into an outdoor spice market.
For $15 I load up on medicine: nutmeg
(for bruises), curry (vision), cinnamon
(travelers breath). Much cheaper
than a co-pay. Robert Stephens

For reservations,
see your travel professional or call
1.877.77.SANDS (72637)
thesandstc.com
8 ISLANDS

OCTOBER

$895
GIVE BACK

COST TO BUY A $3.58 T-SHIRT

FOR THE WHOLE POPULATION OF MAYREAU, 35 MILES
BY BOAT FROM GRENADA

jon whittle (2)

Get
Here

From the beach its a

4-mile hike to the bakery
and fruit stands in Clifton.
Tip: Stay here, in bare feet.
10 islands

october

Grenadines

BY JON WHITTLE

CHAtHAM
BAY
IF YOURE CURIOUS
Weve arrived in the
Grenadines under sail,
but the 2,500 residents
of Union Island have no
idea were here. Theyre
on the other side of
the hills, except for the
owner of the tiny beach
bar. Boy, is he glad to
see us step off the boat.
It gets lonely here.

24 HOUrS

INTO A WEEKLONG CRUISE

IF YOURE SERIOUS

Welcome to a sample of
the week ahead, where
hard-to-reach Caribbean outposts come
to life. Find them with
44 passengers and two
Islands photographers
on an exclusive Sail
Windjammer cruise. We
leave Grenada on May
10, 2015. Be among the
few on board by signing
up at islands.com/IOA.

SNORKEL WITH
SEA TURTLE
FAMILIES AT
UNINHABITED
TOBAGO CAYS
ON DAY FIVE.

october

is

Get here

Trip Planner
WheRe aRe YOu
GOinG neXT?
12%

Hawaii

11%

Europe

13%

9%

Asia

South
Pacific

To the island in
my kitchen. My
kid is hungry.
MJ Racine

55%

Caribbean

We asked Facebook
followers which matters more, a resorts
cofee or its Wi-Fi?

59%

Said:

Where WeD Go ...

NoW

ARUBA Hurricanes rarely venture this

far south, and its nonstop flights save
costly domestic connections. Room rates
can fall by 40 percent in late summer.
traVeLer BeWare Storms elsewhere in the
Caribbean can steal cooling trade winds
here. Think steam room. aLso ConsIDer
A Caribbean cruise in September. Ships
steer around storms. Savings peak now.

iN oCtoBer

HAWAII This is
the month to miss
the crowds, and
score great weather
and deals across
the island chain.
traVeLer BeWare

Avoid late October

travel. November
is a rainy month.
aLso ConsIDer

Venice
Hawaii

Hong Kong
Aruba

12 ISLANDS

OCTOBER

Hong Kong. Locals

consider October
summer as humidity levels drop.
Fantastic hikes
surround the city.

iN FeBrUAry

VENICE Valentines in Venice

sounds right. So do
fewer people and
low prices. traVeLer
BeWare It will be
cool, maybe cold,
but the citys allure
defies temps.

Ive taken 22 trips to the Caribbean during hurricane season.

Thats two decades of empty
beaches and absurdly affordable
fun. Today in St. Kitts it ends. Ive
been grounded by a mild tropical
storm. Statistically, Im unlucky. I
should be flying home, not stuck
in a hotel. But my room was easy
to secure. The storm closed the
airport. No new guests are arriving. The hotels power is backed
by a generator. So its me, a big
bed, room service and wow,
movies on demand. Im a new
dad. When was the last time
I watched a movie ... or two?
Today, let it rain. Tomorrow I will
fly home. I will nod as my wife
consoles me for my misfortune. Yes, honey, it was such a
tough trip. Eddy Patricelli

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: ZACH STOVALL; ISTOCK (2)

OFF-SEASON TRAVEL

Take care of yourself by letting us

take care of you
What better place to nurture your body and nourish your
mind than on our small luxury ship? Follow the sun ... wrap
yourself in these warm Technicolor waters take a nap
breathe. Luxurious onboard amenities such as our Deep
Nature spa and tness center enrich your experience. And our
all-inclusive pricing oers an exceptional value, with 50% o
standard cruise fares plus included airfare from Los Angeles.

m/s Paul Gauguin

TAHITI | FRENCH POLYNESIA | FIJI | SOUTH PACIFIC

For more information,

contact your Travel Professional,
call 877-440-6119, or visit
www.pgcruises.com/islands

Get here

Easy & Exotic

Marthas Vineyard
Florida Keys
Hawaii
Montego Bay

Punta Cana
USVI
Saint Lucia

Byodo-In Temple on Oahu, Hawaii

CLOSE TO HOME? YES.

FEELS LIKE HOME?
NO WAY. FOR THE
PRICE OF ONE VACATION DAY, YOURE IN
PARADISE BY LUNCH.

14 ISLANDS

OCTOBER

1.

OAHU, HAWAII

WHY Its easY Nonstop flights from

San Fran, LA and Oakland make it possible to go tropical for a long weekend.
Even better? No currency swaps or
Customs. WHY Its eXotIC This is a side of
Oahu few know exist. At the Byodo-In
Temple, peacocks roam and koi swim in a
setting so foreign its been used as a Korea
stand-in on Lost. The replica of a Japanese
Buddhist temple was built at the base of
the Koolau Mountains to honor the 100year anniversary of the first Japanese
immigrants to Hawaii. And the Japanese

influence doesnt stop there. A 30-minute

drive to Waikiki leads to Asian travelers
queuing up at Marukame Udon for a taste
of home. One slurp of the fresh noodles
and the next stop may as well be Mount
Fuji. traVeLer BeWare Byodo-In rests inside a memorial park, so road delays from
funeral processions can happen. Also,
Oahu has about six times the population
of Maui on a smaller landmass, so dig
deeper to find the real Hawaii, like plate
lunches at Rainbow Drive-In and canoe
paddling at Ala Wai Park. Lori Barbely
staY: sHeraton-WAiKiKi.CoM rAtes: $325+

LORI BARBELY

three-DAy GetAWAys

Best

to Live on

Quit your job.

Move to an island.
Be happy.

We show you how on islands.com/BITLO.

Easy & Exotic

4.

2.
MONTEGO BAY,
JAMAICA
WHY It s easY Its no surprise
all the major East Coast hubs
offer nonstop flights to Mo Bay,
but from Denver? Actually, yes.
Thanks, Frontier. Fly nonstop
from Indy, Dallas and Minneapolis too. The Jamaican
dollar is the official currency,
but the U.S. dollar is widely
accepted, especially at resorts
and for tourist taxis (different
from route taxis, which are
mostly used by locals and make
more stops). WHY Its eXotIC
Outside the all-incs and beyond
the overpriced tchotchkes on
Gloucester Avenue is Doctors
Cave Beach, the best nonresort
option for a day at the beach.
Six bucks and one step inside
the beach club later, its like being on a private island. traVeLer
BeWare That $6 just mentioned
is needed to get onto the beach
itself, not just into the club, so
bring cash. Audrey St. Clair

staY: HaLFMoon.CoM rAtes: $289+

16 ISLANDS

OCTOBER

easiesT
caRiBBean
aiRPORTs
GET PRE-CLEARANCE

3.

JADE MOUNTAIN,
SAINT LUCIA
WHY Its easY Book three
nights, period. No more, no
less. Having a butler is easy too.
WHY Its eXotIC Where else do
you have a private infinity pool
and living art instead of a wall?
(Nearby Ladera Resort has this
too.) It means sleeping, showering, brushing teeth and ...
doing whatever else you do in
private, in fresh Caribbean air.
traVeLer BeWare Little birds fly
in and out. Theyre cute for 72
hours. The novelty fades just
in time for checkout. Robert
Stephens staY: JaDeMoUntaIn

.CoM rAtes: $1,025+

In Aruba and the

Bahamas (Freeport
and Nassau), clear
customs before
boarding instead of
after landing.
PICK AN ALTERNATIVE

ST. JOHN, USVI

Daily
nonstop flights from 10 U.S. cities travel to St. Thomas. From
there, its a breezy (literally and
figuratively) 20-minute ferry
ride from the Red Hook dock to
St. John. WHY It s eXotIC This
Virgin isle is small
on development
(only four
hotels) and
big on nature:
Its national
parkland covers
two-thirds of the
island. Jungle trails wend past
petroglyphs and hermit crabs
unfazed by curious guests. The
park even extends underwater
for 5,600 acres see 225 yards
of it on Trunk Bays snorkeling trail, where damselfish
slide through sea fans and
parrotfish glow almost neon.
Afterward, nearby Cruz Bay
awaits with coconut shrimp
and mango coladas (made
with local Cruzan rum) at
Morgans Mango. traVeLer
BeWare Topside, the rangerguided Reef Bay Trail is the
way to do the park, but the
3-mile hike fills up fast, so call
far in advance to reserve a spot.
Crowds of cruisers also swarm
Trunk Bay; visit vinow.com for
up-to-date cruise schedules to
plan around port days. Erika
Hueneke stAy: WestInresort
WHY It s easY

stJoHn.CoM rates: $229+

FACEBOOK POLL

Puerto Rico doesnt

have to entail San
Juans big-city
hassles. Flying into
Aguadilla on the
west coast lands
you in a world of
quiet coastlines.

What are your least

favorite airports?
Chicago (bad),
Atlanta (really bad),
Miami (worst, 45%).
Id rather take a
beating than go
through there.

KEEP IT SMALL

Jef Thompson

Regional airports on
Anguilla, St. Barth,
Nevis, etc. make
island-hopping easy.
No waiting around
for checked bags.

ZACH STOVALL (2); SIDEBAR: ISTOCK (2)

Get here

WHEN WE ALL
COME TOGETHER
CANCER DOESNT STAND
A CHANCE

FRIDAY, SEPT 5th

8PM / 7 CENTRAL

GO TO STANDUP2CANCER.ORG
CANADIAN BREAST CANCER FOUNDATION, CANADIAN CANCER SOCIETY, CANADIAN INSTITUTES OF HEALTH RESEARCH, CANCER RESEARCH INSTITUTE,
CANCER STEM CELL CONSORTIUM, FARRAH FAWCETT FOUNDATION, FIFTH THIRD BANK, FOX FAMILY CANCER RESEARCH FUNDING TRUST, GENOME CANADA,
LAURA ZISKIN FAMILY TRUST, LUSTGARTEN FOUNDATION, MELANOMA RESEARCH ALLIANCE, NATIONAL OVARIAN CANCER COALITION,
ONTARIO INSTITUTE FOR CANCER RESEARCH, OVARIAN CANCER NATIONAL ALLIANCE, OVARIAN CANCER RESEARCH FUND,ROOMKEY.COM,
SEAN PARKER FOUNDATION, SIEMENS, ST. BALDRICKS FOUNDATION

Get here

Easy & Exotic

6. FLORIDA
KEYS
WHY Its easY No

boat required. Do
42 bridges in a droptop. WHY Its eXotIC
Take three hours
or three days. Find
stone crabs off the
virgin beach. Overnight in a bungalow.
Be steps from a Key
deer. BeWare Get off
Duval Street in Key
West for cheaper
beer and quicker
liquor. staY: CHeeCa
.CoM rAtes: $179+

Sanctuary Cap Cana

Barcelo Bavaro

50K
people visit
Punta Cana
weekly. Only
100K live here.

7. MARTHAS
VINEYARD

Excellence Punta Cana

Sanctuary Cap Cana

5.

the prooF
After 20 resorts, our
forearms were covered
in all-inc bracelets.
Theyre not stylish,
but unlimited drinks,
desserts and all-inc
street cred were worth
the funky tan lines.

18 ISLANDS

TOBER

PUNTA CANA,
DOMINICAN
REPUBLIC tHe sCoop
Does TripAdvisor lie? We sent
four editors to Punta Cana
all-inclusives for two weeks to
find out. Theyll tell all in our
ultimate all-inclusive guide
(coming soon to Islands.com).
For now, heres a glimpse of
what they found. WHY aLL tHe
FUss For starters, a weeklong
trip, flights included, can ring
in for less than $1,000 at resorts
like The Level at Melia Caribe
Tropical. And with over 35,000
rooms, this all-inc mecca has
thousands of options for those
with a taste for convenience
and bottomless cocktails. Low
maintenance? Definitely. But
predictable? Not a chance. WHY
Its eXotIC These megaresorts

are growing up: Hand-pressed

tortillas at Barcelo Bavaro and
Paradisus mixologist-crafted
drinks have us nodding in unexpected approval (so does Barcelos less-than-$100-a-night
per-person room rate). A personal butler on speed dial has
us halfway to a fist pump. And
trapeze lessons? Thanks for the
offer, Club Med, but well stick
to a seat at the swim-up bar.
Do Bring your own insulated
mug. Dont Assume everything
is included. Premium alcohol,
Wi-Fi, private beach areas and
spa treatments arent always
covered in the upfront price.
BooKInG tIp Use a travel agent
to get as much as a third off.
FaVorItes Sanctuary Cap Cana
for its boutique feel; Excellence
for its standout service.

minutes from Providence by air. WHY Its

eXotIC Different season, different scene:
Autumn calls for
pumpkin ale at Black
Dog and riding the
countrys oldest carousel. BeWare Booze
sold in Edgartown
and Oak Bluffs only.
staY: HarBor-VIeW
.CoM rAtes: $109+

eAsy MADe eAsier

Its the end of

a travel day.
Wheres the closest beach bar?
This app offers
answers, even
without Internet. Look up
City Maps 2Go
Pro. $2.99

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: ZACH STOVALL (3); JON WHITTLE; BRACELETS: JON WHITTLE; OPPOSITE: ZACH STOVALL

WHY Its easY 25

Try Not Having Fun at...

the
slippery
slope
BY roBert stephens

spot :

near :

Dunns RiveR Falls

OchO RiOs, jamaica

The buses are lined up like dominoes in

the parking lot. People in groups of 25
make like ducklings and follow their tour
leaders to the water. I wouldnt be here,
renting a pair of size-13 jellies for the
climb up Dunns River Falls, were it not
for the wishes of my 9-year-old daughter.
And so, she and I fall in line and follow
Jamars voice and his dreadlocks.
Anywhere else in the world, water
rolling in haphazard directions over
boulders would demand fences, and offer
a 30-second photo op. But there are no barriers here. Hundreds of fingers and toes are
all over the falls. Noelle and I lock hands for

Anguilla: . . . . . . . . . . . . .+264-497-2656
Antigua: . . . . . . . . . . . . .+268-462-9532
Argentina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4816-8001
Aruba: . . . . . . . . . . . . . .+297-583-4832
Bahamas: . . . . . . . . . . . .+242-377-8300
Barbados: . . . . . . . . . . . .+246-416-4456
Belize: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .+501-207-1271
Brazil: . . . . . . . . . . . .+55-92-3584-1293
Chile: . . . . . . . . . . . . .+56-2-2232-5892
Costa Rica: . . . . . . . . . .+506-2257-3434
Curacao: . . . . . . . . . . . .+599-9461-3089

the wet 600-foot climb upward. One of us

(OK, me) stops to cannonball into a small
lagoon, whooping and posing for pictures
with strangers in swimsuits. To my daughters horror, the rushing water has pulled
someones shorts down a bit (OK, mine).
Goodbye, travel vanity. Hello, freedom.

Dominican Republic: . . .+809-333-4000

Ecuador . . . . . . . . . . . .+5932-2-228-688
El Salvador: . . . . . . . . .+503-2263-7799
French Guiana . . . . . . . . . .0590-892803
Grand Cayman: . . . . . . .1-866-478-3421
Guadeloupe . . . . . . . . . . . .0590-892803
Guatemala: . . . . . . . . . .+502-2277-9070
Honduras: . . . . . . . . . . . .+504-234-3183
Jamaica: . . . . . . . . . . . . .+876-952-1126
Martinique . . . . . . . . . . . . .0590-892803
Mexico: . . . . . . . . . . .+52-33-3122-5551

Thrifty features a wide selection of quality vehicles. 2014 A licensee of DTG Operations, Inc., or its affiliates.

Do Rent jelly shoes

for traction. The
Caribbeans healthiest man wears them
(p. 55). $7+, dunns
riverfallsja.com

Nicaragua: . . . . . . . . . .+505-2255-7981
Panama: . . . . . . . . . . . . .+507-204-9555
Paraguay . . . . . . . . . . .(595)-21-5197310
Peru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .(1) 447-7118
Puerto Rico: . . . . . . . . . .+787-253-2525
St. Barts . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0590 52 34 06
St. Kitts: . . . . . . . . . . . . .+869-465-2991
St. Lucia: . . . . . . . . . . . . .+758-451-6150
St. Maarten: . . . . . . . . . .+599-545-2393

DoNt Ignore
vendors on the walk
back to the bus.
Smiles cost nothing,
and you might find a
deal on a wind chime.

St. Thomas: . . . . . . . . . . .+340-776-1500

Tobago: . . . . . . . . . . . . .+868-639-8507
Trinidad: . . . . . . . . . . . . .+868-669-0602
Turks & Caicos: . . . . . . .+649-946-4475
Uruguay: . . . . . . . . . . . .+598-2481-8170
Worldwide Reservations: 1-800-367-2277

To book online, please visit:

life
here
Had a tough day at work?
These villagers start at dawn to
seize cooler air, and fnish at 3
p.m. to avoid afternoon heat.

20 islands

october

Flores, Indonesia

BY BROWN W. CANNON III

flores,
indonesia
IF YOURE CURIOUS
This is a sweltering
scene from Waturaka
village, where residents
eat only what they
grow. The hand plow is
used to shape the mud
boundary of this rice
paddy, which is on a hill.
The woman on the left
is working the berm to
keep water in.

1968
L AST ERUPTION
OF KELIMUTU
IF YOURE SERIOUS

I felt vulnerable to
Kelimutu volcano up
here. Waturaka village is
on the way to its threecratered summit. Local
tour guides can arrange
for a home stay in the
village (florestourism
.com). Legend has
it that long ago this
village angered the
gods, which made the
mountain explode.

LOCALS LIVE
ON THE
MOUNTAIN
WITH A SENSE
OF RESPECT,
NOT FEAR.

october

islands 21

My Island

Honolua Bay
Kahakuloa
Village

FAR-OUT PIZZA
Flatbread
Company

Lahaina

Paia

Mamas Fish
House

Kahului
1-hour ferry
ride to Lanai

Makawao

Launiupoko
Beach Park

Kula

Grandmas
Coffee House
Haleakala National Park
Ulupalakua
Ranch

Kaupo

MAUI FOR EXPERTS

WHEN A HAWAIIAN
WATERMAN SHARES
HIS ISLAND HOME,
YOUD BETTER
BUCKLE UP.

Ive lived on Maui for 22

years. The one place I cant
believe isnt more visited is
Lanai. Just 3,100 people live

on the island. The ferry runs

fives times a day and takes
just an hour each way. On
weekdays, I take my family to
Hulopoe Beach. Well have it
to ourselves except for a pod of
dolphins we snorkel with.
Everybody who drives to
Hana gets there, scratches
their head and says what the
hell. Ask around about Red

JOSH STONE
AGE

41

OCCUPATION

Owner, Big Wave

Realty; co-owner,
Flatbread Co., Paia
FORMER LIFE

World-champion
windsurfer

22 ISLANDS

OCTOBER

Sand Beach. Its a short hike,

and its stunning. So is Homoa
Beach, Mauis most beautiful
shoreline, in my opinion. You
drive to it over a potholed asphalt road. Just be sure to pull
off when locals need to pass.
To complete the Hana loop,
I tell people to ignore their
rental-car policy. Ask the park

rangers at Oheo Gulch if the

road along the south coast back
to Kula is passable. If so, head
past Kaupo and into upcountry. Stop at Bullys Burgers, a

roadside stand near a ranch,

right where the landscape
turns to desert. Insane burgers.

The Mopsy, a
Hawaiian pizza
named after a Maui
matriarch, was born
in the kitchen of
Flatbread Co., Paia,
in 2006. Slowroasted Kalua pork,
Red Sand
mango barbecue
Beach
sauce, Hawaiian
goat cheese, Maui
pineapples the
pizza
became such
Hana
a hit its now a top
seller across the
Flatbread Co. chain,
Hamoa
Beach
from Portland to
Providence.

Dont try to learn how to surf

on the North Shore. Go to Lau-

Locals love to
resort it
too. Its
tough to beat
The Grand
Waileas
poolside
drink
service.

niupoko Beach Park, just south

of Lahaina. Its a Waikiki-style
wave that offers a 20-second
window to stand up.

Cycling has become huge

on the island. My No. 1 ride is

from Grandmas Coffee House

to the Ulupalakua Ranch/winery. Its a fast downhill. Turn
around for the 6-mile schlog
back, with coffeecake waiting.

The best place to watch surfing is Honolua Bay. A cliff

MOVING TO
MAUI?

overlooks the bay, creating a

perfect amphitheater. Keep
heading north for a sign that
reads Best Banana Bread in
the World. Try a slice and get a
glimpse of old Hawaii.

If you want to
live here, dont try
to change Maui
into your idealized
paradise. Not long
ago, a homeowners association
tried to ban carport
barbecue gatherings.
Thats like banning
Hawaiians from being Hawaiian. JS

Mamas Fish House is

expensive ... and worth it.

They catch their own fish. The

drinks are phenomenal. If
were going out to rock it, well
start at the bar at Mamas.

MAP: OLIVER WINWARD; MARGARITA: ISTOCK

LIFE HERE

Do you have the

App?

With the Islands Magazine app,

you can access all the latest issues and subscribe to Islands.
Search Islands Magazine in the App Store.

life here

Live the Life

Q: You have to be one of the original
expats on St. John. Howd you fnd it?
A: It was a post-college funk. My father,

who was a dentist, said I should visit one

of his patients who had a place in the Virgin Islands. As soon as I got off that plane
and took my first breath of tropical air? It
was like a drug and I wanted more.

B Y d av i d l a h u t a

Gerald Singer doesnt know what

he wants to be when he grows up. He

hasnt known since he moved to St.
John, USVI, from Buffalo 45 years ago.
Now 68, the serial entrepreneur is knee
deep in his latest project, a smartphone
app based on his guidebook St. John:
Off the Beaten Track. Gerald still takes
hikes in the woods. He also putters
around on his 15-foot rigid inflatable
boat, the one hes tying up to a sunny
dock at Caneel Bay right now.

Q: Do you always travel by sea?

A: No, but for me its by far the easiest

way to get around the island.

Q: But the guidebook app you created
it isnt about traveling by boat.
A: Not everyone who comes here has

a boat. But everyone drives, walks and

carries a phone. Theres so much to see
here, if the app really were a book, itd
be about a thousand pages. Who wants
to carry that around?

But the way of life has changed. When I

came to St. John, there were 800 people
living here. Now its about 4,200. Back
then, there were two restaurants, a market, a liquor store and a pharmacy. None
of them were well stocked.
Q: As a college grad, you probably knew
how to live cheaply anyway.
A: Most of my food came from the sea. Id

dive for lobster and conch every day.

Q: And you stayed.
A: The biggest hurdle was coping with

some form of scarcity. If you ran out of

water, youd have to wait for the barge to
arrive from Puerto Rico, which could take

david lahuta

an app for this?

Q: The drug has changed, I imagine.

A: Physically, it's as beautiful as ever.

All suite, ocean front Royal West Indies Resort

is nestled on beautiful Grace Bay beach.
This amazing resort offers studio,
1 & 2 bedroom suites. With exciting activities
and sights nearby to enjoy its the perfect
place for a wonderful vacation!
Welcome to Royal West Indies Resort.

reservations@royalwestindies.com
1-800-332-4203
www.royalwestindies.com

two weeks or longer. To conserve water

we all hung these signs in our bathrooms
that read: On this island in the sun, we
never flush for number one.

bask in warm sun, dive & snorkel the coral reefs, wake up to sunrise,
swim in the clear blue waters of the Caribbean, explore the caves,
discover maya ruins, zip line through the rainforest

Q: Theres something fun about that.

A: It was the same for everyone. Most of

us didnt have phones. When my parents

wanted to get in touch with me, theyd call
the police station and send an officer to
my house. Someone would knock on my
door and say, Hey, your mother called!
Q: The simple life at its best. But you
still have to fnd work.
A: Yeah, well, you have to take what you

can get on an island. Ive been a commercial fisherman, a charter captain, I even
used to deliver milk from St. Thomas to
Tortola by boat.

Theres a
clinic here but
no hospital.
If you need a
specialist, you have to go to
St. Thomas or farther, like
Puerto Rico or the States.
Its best to stay healthy.
But then a loaf of organic
wheat bread costs $16.
Q: Then came the guidebook. How successful has it been?
A: The concept of success is different on

an island. Its more difficult to earn what

you would call a good living. But Im my
own boss and make my own hours.
Q: And you live on a tropical island.
That counts for something.
A: The sad part is that most expats come

to the Virgin Islands for the beauty, the

beaches, the hiking, everything you see
in front of us. But then they become
bogged down in everyday life and they
dont take time to look up and enjoy
what attracted them here in the first
place. I think its a shame.
Q: So, do you still enjoy what you came
to St. John for back in 1969?
A: I wouldnt have it any other way. What

I came for is right there in the app.

usvi moving tips: islands.com/bitlo

Feel the charm of this multi-cultural Island, San Pedro Ambergris Caye,
with the comfort and conveniences of SunBreeze Hotel or SunBreeze Suites.
Both properties are conveniently located in town and offer modern amenities
combined with Caribbean charm. Choose from the self-catering, seafront
SunBreeze Suites boasting 20 fully equipped units with living, dining room,
kitchen and private balcony, or SunBreeze Hotel with 43 rooms featuring
partial ocean and garden views.

www.sunbreeze.net | email: sunbreeze@btl.net | toll free: 1-800-688-0191

www.sunbreezesuites.com | email: sunbreezesuites@btl.net | toll free: 1-800-820-1631

life here

Taste

rain BaKed
BY MatthEW MillER

WHERE: CORN ISLAND, NICARAGUA

THE FIND: PAN DE COCO

The weather isn't always

this perfect for the beach,
and bread, in Nicaragua.

Doa Patrona got pan? I dont know

that, and I born here.
Doa Patronas place is a steel-roofed
roadside shack. Come back at 5, well
have pan, says the counter lady, maybe
Doa Patrona herself. Man cannot live by
bread alone, but it would be better than
no bread at all in wet jeans. I walk to El

RECIPES 1-2-3 The chef carefully kneels in his white coat and lifts a watermelon from a garden near Isabela, Puerto Rico. It isnt on his menu tonight. Ill
just play around with it, he says. Heres how his game goes. Robert Stephens

WATERMELON CHUNKS

FETA AND OLIVE OIL

BASIL AND SALT

THE RESULT

I dont have a plan

really. Maybe we can
make a salad.

Im just experimenting here. Its hard to go

wrong with feta.

The basil is fresh.

Thats my secret you
cant mess up fresh.

Sweet. Salty. Juicy.

Not just a watermelon
and not just a salad.

26 islands

october

Paa, a pulpera, or Nicaraguan catchall store selling used clothes, hubcaps

to match any car but yours, tools and
today, pan de coco. Triumph! The dough
rose just fine. I buy several round loaves
the color of a suntan and still warm.
In the taxi home, theres a family from
Managua stacked two deep. I show them
the bread. Pan, I say, even in the rain.
Everyone nods, impressed, I think.
At the hotel I give the driver a loaf.
He seems amused gringo tipping with
bread. The Clevelanders are gone, maybe
swimming in the downpour.
Alone in my room, I break bread. Coconut steam curls up. My first bite of rare
baked-in-the-rain pan de coco tastes like
bread. It would be great with butter and
guava jam. Worth a trip to Corn Island?
Maybe, because you also get to meet
people and, legend has it, bask in the sun.
Today it was worth a walk in the rain.
puerto ricos top 10: islands.com

JON WhittlE; BREad: iStOCK: WatERMElON: JON WhittlE (4)

The family from Cleveland

mom, dad, two daughters, all
in colorful swimsuits stand
under an eave and face a wall of
rain where a sunny curve of sand
should be. One little girl holds a
pink plastic pail. Its the saddest vacation
Ive ever seen. Fortunately, I didnt come
from Nicaraguas mainland to Great
Corn Island to play on the beach today. I
came to try pan de coco, traditional coconut bread baked by local ladies at home.
True comfort food. Theres one problem.
They dont bake in the rain, says
Enrique at Arenas Beach Hotels reception area. The dough wont rise. I must
look forlorn because Enrique adds, Try
down at the Comisariato.
I set out on foot, rain whipping
around me. A lady at the Comisariato
says no, she doesnt have pan. On account
of the rain? I offer. No, we never have
pan, she says. Try Doa Patronas.
Taxi please. I climb in with three
other passengers. Like little buses, taxis
here pick up as many folks as will fit and
take everyone wherever theyre going.
Theres only one road, and its a loop, so
every place is on the way. And its always
the same fare, less than a dollar.
Oh, yeah, Doa Patrona has pan,
says the taxi driver, Don Miguel. Jason,
with me in back, says, How you know

S P E C I A L P R O M O T I O N A L F E AT U R E

4. ADVENTURE HUB Because St.

Thomas is a cruise ship mecca, it
offers more activities than many other
Caribbean islands combined. Choose
from sky diving, helicopter tours,
personal-watercraft riding, scuba diving,
kiteboarding, wakeboarding, kayaking,
zip-lining, gambling, whale-watching,
deep-sea shing, snorkeling, jet-packing
you get the idea.

Insider
Travel Deals

U.S. VIRGIN
ISLANDS
Score free nights, free
sailing trips, added
adventure and more with
this Caribbean getaway.

2. NO PASSPORT REQUIRED
Even if you dont mind coughing up $110 for a rst or
renewal passport, often
its the waiting that stinks.
Turnaround time is six weeks,
or three if you pay another
$60 for expedited service.
Travel to the USVI and youll
need only a drivers license
and birth certicate.

1. Sails opportunity
Usually the ne print
is a buzz kill. In the
case of all-inclusives, it
announces that if you want
a boat ride, youll likely be
powering that kayak or
paddleboard yourself. Not
so with Bolongo Bay Beach
Resort on St. Thomas.
Stay a week and youll hop
aboard a catamaran for two
guided sailing trips one
at sunset, and the other a
daytime snorkel with turtles.
Bolongobay.com

5. Free nights
It takes a few days to nd
the holiday groove, and
The Westin St. John Resort
knows that which is why
theyre letting you stay an
extra night for free. With the
Westin Weekends promotion,
stay two weekend nights
and get a third free. Until
December 16, stay longer
and your fourth night is
free plus youll earn
food and beverage credits.
Westinresortstjohn.com
3. SHOPPING ALLOWANCE Its hard
to leave a destination without a few
souvenirs and in the USVI, those
souvenirs might be luxury ones.
These islands give shoppers the
highest duty-free shopping allowance
in the Caribbean: Its $1,600, and
its twice the amount that neighbor
islands allow. So say hello to Chanel,
Louis Vuitton, Rolex and more.

HAWAII ISNT JUST A PLACE,

ITS A WAY OF LIFE.

Aston at the Waikiki Banyan

Aston Kaanapali Shores

ASTON CONDOMINIUM RESORT COLLECTION

Explore Hawaiis breathtaking beauty and feel each islands playful spirit. Stay at an Aston
condominium resort and enjoy perfect locations, spacious suites with full kitchens, and true
Aston hospitality.

866.774.2924 | AstonHotels.com

Aston Waikiki Sunset

The Hawaiian Islands are

Incomparably Delicious

n island communities, ingredients, favors and cooking

techniques of indigenous peoples and visitors mingle to

form a local food culture unique to the locale. In Hawaii,

early Polynesians, European whalers, American missionaries,

East Asian sugar-plantation workers and recent immigrants

from throughout the world have left their mark on a vibrant

and delicious food scene.

Seeds from many lands have produced an eclectic mix of

fruits and vegetables in a tropical climate. The Pacifc Ocean

provides a cornucopia of fresh fsh and seafood. Farmers and

ranchers continue a rich tradition of food production. Add
some creative contemporary chefs, out comes a cuisine, rich

in culinary traditions, that is no longer just Chinese, French,

Japanese, American, Korean or Portuguese, but rather a

melding that is uniquely Hawaiian.

SPECIAL PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

try fresH fisH aNd POke

Fish is Hawaiis premier protein, freshly
caught in surrounding Pacifc waters and
expertly handled by fshermen and purveyors. Yellowfn and big-eye ahi (tuna)
1

are prized, especially in raw preparations,

but equally important in island cuisine are

mahimahi, monchong, pakapaka, onaga,

swordfsh and marlin. Steamed, grilled or

sauted, sauced with beurre blanc, or drizzled with soy sauce and ginger, Hawaiis
fsh is unrivaled.
Especially cherished is poke, the ubiqui-

tous pp (appetizer) frequently nibbled

plate lunch: two scoops of rice (steamed,

white and sticky), mac salad (a mayonnaiseladen macaroni concoction) and a hefty
portion of protein thats either teriyaki beef
or chicken; pork or chicken katsu (breaded
and fried); furikake (seasoned seaweed)
fsh; kalbi (Korean short ribs), beef curry;
or stew. Home-style island cooking defnes
the plate lunch.
Upscale plate lunches at Honolulus
Diamond Head Market & Grill are also popular. Hawaii Islands Hawaiian Style Cafe (one
in Waimea, one in Hilo) gets high marks,
as do Sam Satos, Wailuku, Maui and Ono
Family Restaurant in Kapaa, Kauai.

on with a cold beer or glass of wine. Fresh

In Honolulu, on the last Friday of each

bite-size morsels of raw fsh primarily ahi

month, is Eat the Street, a rally of food trucks

are seasoned with inamona (ground can-

ofering an international array of plate lunches

dlenut), soy sauce, kochu jang (Korean chili

during the dinner hour. Go to eatthestreetha-

paste) or countless other ways. Its avail-

waii.com for location and schedule.

able everywhere fsh is sold and served; fnd

Eating local also means eating from

top-notch versions at Fish Express in Lihue,

the ina (land), a top-of-mind attitude in

Kauai; Fort Ruger Market and Tamashiro

Hawaii. Theres no better place than Village

in Honolulu, Oahu; Lanai Ohana Poke

Burger in Waimea on Hawaii Island, where

Market in Lanai; and Sam Choys Kai Lanai

beef is freshly ground and sourced from

in Keauhou, Hawaii Island, where fried poke

island ranchers, and mushrooms, taro, veg-

is a signature dish.

etables, milk and ice cream are sourced

eat Like a LOCaL iN tHe isLaNds

Local food, also known as local grindz, is
Hawaiis everyday food. Served at mom-andpop venues, food trucks and fast-food joints,
its not fancy or elegant. Most notable is the

from local farms. The farm-to-table concept is taken literally here.

LOCaL GriNdZ at its fiNest

Top Hawaii chefs recognize the tasty,
bold favors of local grindz and enhance

AUGUST 29-SEPTEMBER 7, 2014

Fourth Annual Hawaii Food and Wine Festival

An epicurean feast with internationally renowned master chefs and wine and spirits
professionals. Events include foodie excursions, cooking demonstrations, wine tastings

and dining extravaganzas on Oahu, Maui and Hawaii Island, all focused on the food
bounty and tasty cuisine of the Hawaiian Islands.
For more information on events and tickets, go to hawaiifoodandwinefestival.com.

1. At Hawaii Islands Moon and Turtle, sashimi

salad of fresh ahi is served with baby greens
and signature tetsuyaki dressing.
2. At farmers markets in Hawaii, tropical fruit
is mouthwatering and exotic.
3. Kula strawberry cheesecake with a strawberry yuzu sorbet and house-made graham
cracker is a sweet ending at MW restaurant,
Oahu.
4. Vibrant anthuriums and orchids are plentiful at island farmers markets.

Whole wok-fried fresh market sh

with a ginger-garlic black-bean sauce, tomatoes and snap peas, a specialty at Mala, Maui.
NEXT PAGE:

Signature events include:

Aloha ina, Aloha Kai

(Love of the Land, Love
of the Sea) A six-course
gala with six outstanding chefs at the Waikoloa
Beach Resort. Hawaii
Island, Aug. 29

Under a Maui Moon Six

chefs showcase Mauis
bounty at Kaanapali Beach
Resort. Maui, Aug. 31

A Lucky MODERN Buddha

Belly 14 chefs create dishes
inspired by the Lucky
Buddha. Oahu, Sept. 4

Fourth Annual Halekulani

Master Chefs Gala Series
C hefs who cook to compete, featuring six top
chefs preparing an impress i ve s i x- co u r s e fe a st .
Oahu, Sept. 5

Corks and Forks Sink your

fork into the dishes of 20
master chefs while 20 fabulous Napa Valley wines are
uncorked. Oahu, Sept. 6

Its a Food World After

All 16 chefs will wow your
taste buds on the beach
at the Ko Olina Resort.
Oahu, Sept. 7

pipinola, hearts of palm, mesclun, tomatoes,

sea asparagus, breadfruit, taro and purple
sweet potato.

Farmers markets are the best place to fnd

edibles to take home: fresh roasted maca-

Color so
intense you
can taste it.

damia nuts, honey, dehydrated fruit and

preserves, and Hawaii-grown vanilla, cofee

and chocolates.
It goes without saying that farmers mar-

kets are a community event where residents

shop for fresh ingredients while trading
cooking tips with each other and farmers
too. And you should go to a farmers market
hungry tasty prepared foods will give you

a taste of the local food culture. For a listing

of farmers markets, go to hdoa.hawaii.gov/

them with haute cooking techniques and

the freshest of locally grown ingredients,
a style known as Hawaii regional cuisine.
The venerable James Beard-award-winning
restaurants Roys, Alan Wongs and Chef
Mavro are still among the best, and
notable venues 3660 on the Rise, Hokus,
Sansei, Orchids, Haliimaile General Store,
Merrimans and Town rarely disappoint.

add/md/farmers-market-listings.

As a string of islands in the middle of

the Pacifc, Hawaii has an incomparable
food scene refecting the many ethnicities

that have come to its shores. The states

artisanal farmers, ranchers, chefs, bakers
and food specialists contribute to a cuisine

thats simply ono (delicious).

New ingredients, chefs, restaurants

and ideas constantly fuel the food buzz
throughout the state. MW in Honolulu is
racking up winning reviews for its riff on

classic savory and sweet dishes from small

kid time Hawaii. Also on Oahu, 12th Avenue
Grill, The Pig and the Lady, and Monkeypod

are favored for their home-style, wellexecuted comfort foods in casual settings.

The Moon and Turtle in Hilo is a bright spot

Kona Coffee
Country

on Hawaii Island, with a daily menu based

on farmers-market finds. On Maui, Mala
(locations in Lahaina and Wailea) offers
exceptionally fresh and simple preparations

that will delight the taste buds.

Hawaiis farmers markets are

a saturday affair
Hawaiis farmers markets are booming, and
youll fnd one every Saturday morning on

Kauai, Oahu, Maui, Lanai, Molokai and

Hawaii Island. Expect to see exotic tropical fruit like mangosteen, durian, carambola,
lychee, dragon fruit, guava, poh, lilikoi,
rambutan and cherimoya. Papaya, pineapple, apple bananas, avocados and mangoes
(in season) are always on hand, picked at
the peak of favor. Amazing too is the wide
assortment of herbs and vegetables: wing
beans, long eggplant, choy sum, bok choy,

CULINARY ALOHA
Experience Top Chef cuisine, seed
to table programs, award-winning
ne dining, local faire, and the
freshest ingredients on the planet
at our Marriott Hawaii Resorts.

Oahu | Maui | Kauai | Hawaiis Big Island

www.MarriottHawaii.com
1-800-228-9290

With award-winning coffee, vanilla, cacao,

and rainbow shave ice too variety is truly
the spice of life on Hawaii, the Big Island.
For details, visit gohawaii.com/hawaii-island.

WHERE TO FIND:
HAPPINESS
W h y d o F i j i a n s a l wa y s s m i l e? S i t s t i l l a n d f i n d o u t .

LONGEVIT Y
O n t h es e Ja pa n es e i s l a n d s , 8 0 i s yo u n g.

GUTS

One Philippines spa changes lives inside and out.

STRENGTH
T r y t o k e e p u p w i t h G r e n a d a s h e a l t h i e s t m a n .

COMFORT
Grab a chair and turn the page ...

32 ISLANDS

OCTOBER

What else we found: Hawaii is the healthiest state, eating pork slowly is good for you, water is good medicine, wine
makes good bathwater, Icelands Blue Lagoon isnt natural (but it sure feels good), one iPhone can serve a village
of 200, Woody Harrelson had a total body cleansing in the Philippines, theres no word for boredom in Fiji,
toothbrushes grow wild in Grenada, we all need more naps, you might need a tongue scraper, watching sumo
on TV might lengthen your life, chocolate and bare feet and bamboo tickle, what comes next is good for the eyes.

page 46

page 58

COMFORT

page 48

LONGEVITY

STRENGTH

COMFORT
page 55

GUTS
page 41

page 36

HAPPINESS

zach stovall

34 islands

october

where to find

comfort
Saint Lucia

the lands of ahhs ...

Excuse me, beach lounger, but youre just a distraction. The path to real health leads to
mountaintops like the one over there Gros Piton on Saint Lucia. As I stand on this emasculating soft sand at Sugar Beach, a voice inside keeps hounding me. Hike up there. Hustle
up there. Get your burning lungs up the mountain! Up and down its 4 miles round trip, with
heart-stopping views if you care enough to actually pause. (Petit Piton, behind me, is smaller
but far more technical.) I book the earliest available guided hike, 90 minutes from now. Then
I take of my shoes and sit on the very edge of the lounger. No one is watching, so I lean back.
Oooh, this is nice. Health studies say one of the best things we should, but rarely, do is nap. If
only we could fnd the time and the place to lie down and ... zzzzzz. Robert Stephens

rest assured

The hike is best done with a guide through Island

Routes (islandroutes.com). The nap happens outside a beach bungalow at Sugar Beach, a Viceroy
Resort (formerly Jalousie Plantation, $385+).

where TO find

haPPiness
Fiji

whY sMiLe
STORY BY AMANDA JONES

re you a happy person? George, the Fijian

boatman, asks, removing his sunglasses
and looking into my eyes. Does he mean
right now? Does he mean in life? Does he
mean with his boat or with the island? Was
this an existential question or just an odd
way to ask how I was doing today? Is it
weird that I have to analyze the question?
Yes, Im happy, I reply. Im being served
champagne on a boat belonging to one of
the worlds most beautiful and remote
Pacifc resorts, so it would be churlish to
reply otherwise. Are you happy, George?
He looks at me as if Ive just asked him
if hes ever seen a coconut. Of couuurse,
he fnally says, still smiling. Fijians are
always happy.
Wow, George
We have our families and our villages,
he continues. We have very healthy brains.
And we live in paradise.
George works for Laucala Island, Fijis
most luxurious and costly resort. Laucala
is where people with private jets escape
the paparazzi. Its on a lush 3,200-acre
island with only 25 villas and a maximum
of 80 guests. The cheapest room costs
$4,200 a night, though you can have the
entire place for $150,000 a night, as model
Elle McPherson happily did for her wedding in 2013. The service is impeccable,
and you can drink as much champagne as
it takes to feel somewhat happier.
By contrast, George lives in a small
house on a neighboring island with his
extended family. He takes a staf boat to
work, where he fulfills the recreational
desires of the worlds wealthiest people.
One might think this gives him reason to
be either envious or bitter. He is neither.

36 islands

october

PHOTOS BY JON WHITTLE

It does put him in an excellent position to

comment on what being happy really takes.
We either dont know what we dont
have or we dont care. Like I said, Fijians
are always happy.
Its true. And Im about to fnd out why.

he science of happiness is a
hot topic in the medical world.
According to the Centers for
Disease Control, 10 percent
of Americans sought medical
attention for depression in 2012. In that
same year, Fijians were considered the
happiest people on Earth (by a Gallup
poll), and although Im skeptical of this
metric (Nigeria came in second? Really?),
I believe what I see. These people are
loving and respectful. They laugh easily
and are natural-born pleasers. By world
standards they are considered poor, the
median household income being around
$7,000 and their main source of food

being from land and sea. Most have never

seen a shopping mall or been waited on,
yet they appear to be the most irrationally
happy people Ive ever met.
At the chic, uber-private Tadrai Resort
on Mana Island, I meet an elderly woman
named Duri Jiuwa. Shes a basket weaver
and a kind of Fijian Emily Post a stickler
for proper Fijian etiquette.
Duri, I say as she weaves a basket
from a palm frond, you seem so content.
We dont need much to survive, she
says. Our families, even the whole village, we provide for each other. And look
at our island; we are born retired. We
live in the same place that people have
on their wall calendars.
It might sound like bliss, but Im also
aware of how impatient I can be just sitting in bliss. Does it ever get ... boring?
Her smile grows. We dont understand boredom. There is always someone
to visit, someone to talk to. We feel no

T h e Ha p p i es t Tr i p
if YOure
CuriOus
Knowing a trip to
Fiji is coming up will
pretty much make
you purr. It isnt just
Fiji, though. According to a study
at Breda University
in the Netherlands,
people anticipating an upcoming
trip, anywhere, rate

themselves as hapboardvacations
pier than people who .com). Starting with
are not. Fiji is least
the ight from Los
likely to disappoint.
Angeles to Nadi
Islands globe-trotting ($1,029+, jiairways
photographer Jon
.com). And then on
Whittle calls Fijians
to three cant-miss
the warmest people in resorts: 1 Laucala
the world. Said with
Island (for pampera giant smile.
ing) 2 Tadrai (isolation) and 3 Yasawa
(natural wonders).
if YOure

seriOus

Springboard Vacations can plan every

step and make you
very happy (spring

FIJI

TraveLer
beware
Want to experience
joy? Eat the airline
meal knowing it is not
resort fare and give
leftover Fijian dollars
to Fiji Airs Wings of
Hope program to help
island communities.

VA N UA L E V U

1
silo: istocK

On Fiji, health isnt about being thin and keeping pace. Its about being happy. Really, truly happy.

Optimistic attitudes extend beyond the resort

welcome. Theyre the result of a recipe that
fijians have perfected, even if by accident.

Ha p p y
I n g red i e n t s

being OuTside

When Fijians do something, we do it from within our

Pound your chest,
Hawaii. The United hearts, he says. Anywhere
Health Foundation else in the world, that line
says youre the
would sound as if it were
healthiest state,
rehearsed by a tour guide for
thanks to sunshine
a travel writer. But here, I
brightening your
mood. Think about believe it.
In order to visit the chief
it. How healthy do
you feel inside a
we bring a kava root, from
windowless bowlwhich Fijians make the
ing alley?
famously intoxicating beverage
that is shared in a comThanks
munal
bowl and never drunk
Philippines
People on the out alone. We walk through the
islands have little
concrete houses, dodging
to show of except chickens and skinny dogs.
their teeth (an
There is a small school overInstagram smile
flowing with grinning chilanalysis ranks
the Philippines as
dren (who literally burst into
the third happiest song on my approach). I enter
country). Islands
the grandfatherly headmans
contributor David
once met the exception- Haldane moved to bure, leaving my shoes at the
ally chipper Shawn Achor, Siargao for the
door and sitting cross-legged
happiness researcher, for- dirty feet and
on the woven mat. Family
happy children.
photos plaster a bright blue
mer Harvard teacher and
wall behind the chief. After
social-science guru, at a
nO sTress
discussing last nights pig
dinner several years ago. His
Jamaica
feast, I ask him about village
TED talk on happiness has 8 mil- The T-shirt reads:
No worries. Yeah
lion views online and counting.
harmony in what I would conmon. Jamaica
I have some shocking news
sider great poverty.
ranks No. 6 on
for you, he told me, before tellFijians, we are born into
the Happy Planet
communal
living, he says.
ing me the unshocking clinical
Index, and it isnt
When
anyone
passes your
truth. Material wealth doesnt
because of money
or a certain herb in house, you ofer them water
buy happiness. The irony here
the brownies. They or food. We take care of the
is that in my wealthy American
just do Caribbean
culture everyone wants a recipe
poor, the elderly, the sick. We
culture as purely
do
it because we want to.
that the poor Fijians already
as anyone. Slow?
have. Its a simple one. Too sim- We prefer to call
What about the young
it patient.
ple for most of us.
people? I ask.
At the Yasawa Island Resort
When our youths go to the
in Fijis idyllic, palm-fringed, talcum- city on the mainland [Nadi or Suva], they
sand Yasawa chain of islands, I befriend sometimes forget our ways. They go to
Manasa Ragigia, an elder who has been nightclubs and drink. They buy the best
working at the resort since the first cellphone and want more and more things.
stone was cleared. He walks me to his It is never enough. This is a sickness.
village, which lies just over the hill from
I dont tell him that my teenagers make
the resorts luxurious bures. The resort fun of me for still having an iPhone 4.
employs 70 of the villages 200 residents.
So long as there is one cellphone in
Be honest, Manasa, is it faked? I the village that can make calls, we are all
fnally ask. I mean, all these happy resort fne, he says. We dont care what kind
employees? Is it for real?
of phone it is or who owns it.

38 islands

october

Maui

Contentment at Laucala island resort works

from the outside in. everyone learns at an
early age to be grateful in all circumstances.

o, are these people proof that

the lack of stuff, or more to
the point, not desiring stuff,
can make us happier? And
could that also make people
healthier? A study that Shawn Achor did
with Yale researchers would indicate yes.
They found a positive outlook was associated with a decrease in negative health
symptoms of 23 percent.
Social connection and optimism,
Shawn told me, are as predictive of how
long you will live as obesity, high blood
pressure or smoking. Some communities foster positive conversations; others
foster gossip, high stress and ungrateful
striving for more. Guess which ones have
the healthier populations?
But it might be too late for the Fijian
mode of village living to translate into
urban America. Which is unfortunate
because several studies on lottery winners
(done at the University of California at

inset: lori barbely; opposite: courtesy lacaula

guilt just sitting and talking. One

time I was in America to demonstrate basket weaving. No one
sat around! People were always
in a rush to get somewhere else,
to acquire something they didnt
have at that exact moment.
I sit next to her on the ground,
watching her slowly fold the
frond. Its called the Puritan
work ethic, Duri, I say, and its
a very bad disease.
We talk about disharmony in
my culture, and the lack of it in
hers. She explains how village
elders and chiefs handle disputes in Fiji, and how the worst
punishment of all (being banned
from a village) almost never happens. When I next look down,
Duris basket is fnished.

we dont
know
boredom.
we feel
no guilt
sitting
and
talking.

Ha p p y
I n g red i e n t s
more [personal] choice in our
culture, and that can make us
miserable. Villagers dont have
that much choice, so they dont
crave the things that they dont,
or cant, have.
Fijians put their trust in
views
their
community and in their
Tahiti
On the islands of
faith. Christianity is a hugely
Tahiti, locals pep- important part of village life. On
per conversations
Sundays I notice the bures are
with When you
empty
as people walk to church.
live in paradise
The
only
thing that breaks the
The number-one
reason travelers
peace is singing from deep
visit is to stay in
within the sanctuaries.
an overwater bunIts proven that people who
galow. And why
have
a strong belief in a higher
is that? Because
power
tend to be happier, Chip
the porch has a
perfect view of
told me. Theyre able to surparadise.
render to the things that happen to them, positive or not, as
gOLden ruLe
the
actions of an outside force.
Vanuatu
When
good things happen, they
Do to others as
you would have
feel gratitude toward the higher
them do to you.
power. Perhaps its this gratitude
This Bible passage
that makes them happier.
sums up everyday
life on these 83
nd then there is
islands between
Fiji and Australia.
the obsession with
Wealth is meatime, or at least my
sured, they say
obsession with it.
in Vanuatu, not
An unusual thing
by what you have,
happens
with
time as I sit with
but by what you
give away.
Duri or stroll with George. It
totally escapes me. This is called
with voices telling them they need better Fiji time, which translates to never, ever
homes, new cars and perhaps a law frm moving frantically. Its spending whole
to open the money faucet. Theres no con- days gardening or picnicking or sitting.
cern about keeping up with the Joneses. To rush is to be rude. I reflect on how
They never see a neighbor cruise past in often the frst thing out of many peoples
a Tesla. The concept of a stock-market mouths at home is, Im so crazy busy
crash is foreign. Terrorist threats and as if being hectic is a badge of honor.
preparing for retirement arent on the
Unfortunately, I lose all sense of Fiji
radar either. Stress? Whats that?
time on the day Im supposed to leave. Im
Chip Conley, entrepreneur, happi- late, and a bit frantic. The agitation sticks
ness researcher, and a man who has spent to me as I sit down at the airport, pull out
plenty of time on tropical islands, has an my iPhone and try to connect back to what
interesting observation. In island com- Ive been missing. The Wi-Fi fails, so I
munities, individual happiness tends shove the phone back into my bag and sit
to come second. People spend less time there. A Fijian lady across from me smiles.
dwelling on what pleases them and more This is what Ive been missing all along.
on their contribution to society. We have * 11 Best Things to Do in Fiji islands.com

fijian women like duri could weave baskets at

a lightning pace, but the real art is that they
do everything with care and without hurrying.

Santa Barbara and Harvard to name two)

have given us a petri dish for the relationship between money and happiness. One
year after winning huge sums of money,
most people were either less happy or
at the same level of happiness as before.
Many became socially isolated because of
fear that people would ask them to share
their winnings. Think about that. The very
thought of sharing became horrifc.
And then there are Fijians, the most
generous people Ive ever met. It helps
that their minds have not been infltrated

40 islands

october

inset: jon whittle

on
THe
FarM

WHere To FinD

Philippines

Its the vacation Ive never had. A detox

retreat, to be exact. Fun, right?

STORY BY NATHAN MYERS

JeN JuDge

m nding that a trip to The Farm at San Benito is like going to the
dentist for your whole body. Right away this sweet Filipino nurse
(hygienist, if you will) says, Take of all your clothes. I close my
mouth and oblige. This place is about to change the way I look at
vacations. It might even change the way I look at life.
Im guessing youve never had a colonic. Trust me, youd
know it if you ever had. Most Americans havent. Wont. Dont.
Are turning the page this instant at the very mention of it. But
hold on the nurse just told me that I, like most people my age,
am walking around with 8 to 10 pounds of undigested bile in my
stomach. And shes here to clean it out. She says she wont tell a
soul (so why am I writing this story again?).

october

islands 41

CHoCoLaTe
BoDY Wrap
Secrets Resort,
Jamaica
Sure, you could
sign up for a seaweed body wrap.
But wed choose
the private room
where they turn
bodies into Junior
Mints. Really, is
anything beter
than being slathered in chocolate,
cocoa and mint?
Only if you could
possibly lick
yourself clean.

42 islands

october

Did you know the large intestine is

big enough to cover the surface of a tennis court? she asks. No, I did not. This is
truly a most enlightening vacation.
And hello! Here comes the water! Its
really a mild tickle of pressure in a highly
unfamiliar direction. Water goes in. Water
goes out. You wash your hair, right? Your
ears. Your car. Your dog. But never back up
in there. Too busy, right? Work and family
and life. Me too. Even on vacation Im too
busy getting sunburned and bloated, crawling back home fatter, more exhausted and
totally in need of a vacation.
This trip is the opposite of that one.
Its the solution to it.

ummy bears and Scotch.

It was a full panic move,
really. I was wandering
through the Manila airport
worrying over a text when
Duty Free just gobbled me up. It was my

last chance to eat, drink and be gummy

before arriving at The Farm.
Dont be afraid of the word detox, The
Farms newsletter told me as I read it in a cab.
Whenever someone tells me not to be afraid,
I get scared. Why would they say that?
Leaving Manila, the car wound through
the urban sprawl lining the tiny mountain
roads leading to rural Lipa City. I stared
out the window at strange street foods and
familiar fast foods. Nothing for me.
My vacation has begun.
The Farm is a giant garden with large
modern villas and an embracing air of
space and calm. Before I can ask for the
Wi-Fi password, I am given a schedule with color-coded hours dictating
my every activity for the next five days.
Doctors. Treatments. Juices. I am given
pills. Probiotics. Blue-green algae. Bioneutralizer. All sorted by day, hour and
dosage. I am given an exercise schedule.
I am given organic toothpaste, a tongue

BaMBoo
MaSSage
Sugar Beach (Viceroy), Saint Lucia
Everything is
made of bamboo
in this spa. The
walls. The lampshades. And the
club in the hands
of the masseuse.
Prepare for welts
on the back. But
then she rolls the
stick across the
fesh. Back and
forth. Side to side.
Prepare to giggle.
Oh, that tickles!

Yoga sessions, hikes, scrubs and everything but solid food is diligently
scheduled. Then, right at the breaking point, a green drink appears.

NathaN myers; opposite: courtesy: the farm; silos: istock (3)

PhiLiPPines

scraper, lip balm and organic soaps. I am

given a journal and cozy slippers.
Finally, I am given The Menu.
The Menu features what they
serve on The Farm in lieu of food.
Brain Biofeedback. Digital Meridian
Diagnostics. Ozone Therapy. Magnetic
Clay Footbath. Life Force Nourishment.
Art Therapy. My eyes fxate on a full page
of colonic hydrotherapy options: cofee,
chlorophyll, sea salt. I pucker.
My worries turn to the Scotch. Did I
bring enough? Will they take it away? I
still havent checked my e-mail yet, but
its already time to meet with Dr. Ron, a
young, soothing Filipino physician who
put aside his ER post to foster holistic
ideologies here at The Farm. The pharma
industry does not want a healthy population, he says. Our goal here is to educate
people how to help themselves.
He takes a drop of my blood and illuminates it on a computer monitor. We
can tell a lot about you from your blood.
I wonder if he can see fear in there.
Actually, yes. Dr. Ron says my blood
looks nervous and tired. Too much computers and cellphones, he says. We see
that a lot. Our clients are generally people
who put their careers before their health.

You should try lying on the grass for a few

minutes to ground yourself.
Im reminded of a quote Ive seen attributed to the Dalai Lama: What surprises
me most about mankind is that he sacrifices his health in order to make money,
then sacrifces his money in order to recuperate his health. They could put it on a
T-shirt here and give it to us at check-in.
Mine would have grass stains already.

fter three days with no solid

food, I can smell a cheeseburger three villages away.
Now I know how primitive
man managed to kill sabertoothed tigers with pointy sticks. Hunger
is a powerful force.
I walk the grounds. This meticulous
Eden of massive trees and secret gardens.
I do yoga and free weights until my body
aches, then I sit beneath this huge mango
tree and scribble in my notebook with
uncommon clarity.
This tree is an energy vortex, a groundskeeper told me. If you sit here for 45 minutes you will feel completely recharged.
Thirty-eight minutes later, a green veggie
juice materializes before me. These drinks
have been my breakfast, lunch and dinner
since arrival. They magically appear at the
appropriate moment, as though tracking
me via satellite. And I like it.

if youRe
CuRious
You dont have to go
without food on The
Farm. Or Wi-Fi. The
extent of cold turkey
depends on which of
the eight programs
a guest signs up for.
Among the menu
options: stress reduction, longevity or
environmental detox.
Yoga mats and (brace
for it, but dont tense
up too tight) colon
hydrotherapy are
part of every package.
The on-site restaurants are called Raw!
and Alive! and the
exclamation points
are not gimmicks. Do
not expect nachos.

$560+
per day for a
full detox

if youRe
seRious
Direct ights from
San Francisco and
Los Angeles to
Manila run $1,400
on the low end. Rent
a car for $50 a day in
Manila and head 90
minutes south to The
Farm at San Benito,
just outside Lipa City.
The drive doesnt turn
jungly until the last
10 minutes. At that
point youll know
youre entering a
healthy place fnish
the Wavy Lays and
stuf the bag under
your seat. Villas run
from $143 (billed
as a modern tree
house) to $1,350+
(for four people).
Retreats of 21 nights
are available if you
need the deep clean.
Go to thefarmatsan
benito.com.

october

islands 43

Drink iT Up Spa
Yunessun Resort,
Japan
Dont worry if you
happen to spill
sake in the tub
youre soaking
in it. Yes, thats
a sake bath. Just
dont spill it in
the resorts cofee
spa (for morning soaks), the
green-tea spa (we
hear its always
fresh), or the wine
spa (this is the
royal treatment).
We arent so sure
about using the
charcoal spa.

44 islands

october

he general manager of The Farm

wants to show me a potato. Mr.
Michael, as the staf call him, left
New Jersey in his 20s to manage
hotels around the world. His residence on The Farm suits him like a welcome mat, and our conversation spans a
wide range of holistic health topics. But
frst, potatoes. There are four of them, suspended by toothpicks in glasses of water,
like youd fnd in a biology class.
Its just a silly little science project, he
says. Two of the potatoes were bought at
the local market and appear withered. The
other two were grown here on The Farm
and have shoots of green swirling out of
them. This is the problem with the food
in the stores. It has no life. In the future,
instead of celebrity chefs were going to
start seeing celebrity farmers. Im serious.
He tells me the story of The Farms
German founder, Eckard Rempe, a successful tobacco-quality supervisor before
he established this resort. This is the
future of tourism, Mr. Michael says. And
this guy saw it decades ago. Genius.
Rempe is called a raw-volutionary,
and The Farm has been winning wellness awards since before such a thing as
wellness existed. Despite the accolades,

foot
massage
(not what
you think)
Manafaru Resort,
Maldives

Rempe insists the experience should speak

for itself. Believe nothing you are being
told at The Farm, he writes. Simply live
it, experience it ... and fnd the truth.
Im nodding along like a bobblehead.
Its day five and I am floating 3 inches
above the ground. I feel as if my actual
thoughts have changed, I tell Mr. Michael.
We hear that all the time, he says.
You clear that old matter from your body
and your thoughts can fow more freely.
My hunger is gone, but the clarity
remains. I almost refuse my parting gourmet meal of beetroot salad, mushroom
soup and mixed greens for fear of soiling
the pristine canvas of my guts. Almost.
Ive been scrubbed with avocado,
soaked in aloe and had wheatgrass piped
up my keister. Ive stretched, pumped,
meditated and soaked. Ive learned. Ive
cleansed. And I am ready to leave this
Eden for whatever life I left behind.
Im also a little afraid. Five days is no
match for an entire life of slippery habits.
Who will bring me juices after Im gone?
We are only planting seeds, Mr.
Michael says. The rest is up to you. When
youre feeling stressed, take a moment to
meditate or exercise. Ground yourself. You
are the architect of your own health.
Returning to the airport, I stare out
at the same street foods I was craving on
the way in, and I cant imagine eating that
stuf. Im diferent. No vacation has ever
been so personal. So moving. So alive.
Theres one more cleansing to be done
before I leave: There in the airport terminal, I give my unopened gummy bears to
an unruly child. Dont ask about the Scotch.
* 100 Dream Trips islands.com/wishlist

It sounds so cozy,
so exotic, so
Maldivian. Im not
sure exactly what it
means: The Marma
Ayurvedic massage.
I point to it on the
menu of spa treatments at Manafaru
Island Resort. That
one, please. The
masseuse tells me
to lie facedown on
a mattress. Great. I
feel her frm grip on
my shoulders. Nice.
Opening one eye
slightly, I see shes
holding two ropes
that dangle from
the ceiling. That grip
on my back is from
her feet. This type of
massage targets 107
points in the body.
Its usually done with
hands, but on this
island, feet are so
exotic, so ... Maldivian.
Amanda Jones

private gardens and

outdoor baths turn
Wi-Fi and Sat TV into
modern distractions.

sally tagg; opposite: courtesy the farm; silos: istock (2)

Mango Skin
TreaTMenT
Westin Resort,
St. John
The fruit of the
USVI isnt just for
smoothies. Here
they use it in 1)
a scrub to get rid
of dry skin, and
2) a nectar-laden
lotion to emulsify
the next layer of
fesh. The whole
process is said to
make the skin
glow and to feel,
you guessed it,
silky sweet.

How do you feel? my juice angel asks.

Great, I say. Clearheaded. A bit slow.
Dont you have a treatment soon? he
asks. Ah, yes, Im late for my Revitalizing
Coffee Body Scrub. Im always late for
something: being dipped in aloe or
wrapped in rose petals. Or the upstream
hydrotherapy. Hello again!
Were on our third date (the nurses
word) and past the sweaty palms stage.
At the risk of over-sharing, lets just say
the state-of-the-art colonic machines at
The Farm are designed with clever mirror systems and see-through hoses, so
you can witness exactly whats coming
out of your body. The harvest (another
one of her words) is a revelation. Like a
closet I neglected to clean for 40 years. We
talk about our kids and politics while she
scrubs my guts cleaner than theyve ever
been (did I just see a penny?).

superstock

46 islands

october

where to find

comfort
Iceland

the lands of ahhs ...

Roll a snowball around a burning ember and youve got Iceland. Look what happens when one
of the worlds most active volcanic regions is also one of the frostiest: Its steaming innards
spew and bubble out of thousands of geothermal vents, sometimes forming mystical hot
springs. Oddly, the most famous one (shown here), the Blue Lagoon, was formed in conjunction with a power plant in the 1970s and didnt open for public use until 1987. Travelers like
me have recently caught on to what Icelanders have known for generations, that soaking in
these heitur pottur, or hot pots, turns the entire body into pudding proof that stress really
can melt away. Men in Iceland have the worlds longest life expectancy among males (81 years),
and many attribute the ranking to these earthy soaks. Melanie Radzicki McManus

rest assured

There are about 2,000 hot pots within two hours

of Reykjavik. Visit from May to September for
long days. See the northern lights from August to
April at Hotel Ranga (hotelranga.is, $250+).

where to find

longevity
Ry u k y u I s l a n d s , Ja pa n

ive for the moment. Act like

theres no tomorrow. I have
traveled by this credo for
decades, but not like this. In
Japans Ryukyu archipelago,
Im thinking how many tomorrows are in my future? How do
I want to live them?
This string of islands in the
southernmost part of Japan
is where more centenarians
exist than anywhere else on
Earth. And here on Okinawa,
an island of 1.3 million within
the Ryukyu chain, Ive tracked
down one man who knows the
islands secrets to long life.
Dr. Makoto Suzuki sits
across from me in his cluttered
ofce. He was raised in Tokyo,
and came to the island in the
1970s as a cardiologist. His
research led to two New York
Times bestsellers on longevity. He mentions the islanders
diets and exercise, but adds
intangibles. He calls them
self-help and mutual help.
A person must have a reason to live being a member
of your family or community.
Im distracted by a stack of
folders on the foor. Dr. Suzuki
says theyre fles on the centenarians who live in Okinawa.
How many? I ask.
Last count, about 900.
At nirai Beach, on okinawa, a
serene tropical climate may
explain why locals live so long. But
there are other factors at play.

48 islands

october

seeing

Japans Ryukyu Islands are home to the worlds

oldest human beings. But to ask them, the
secret to long life isnt where you live, but how.
story by joe yogerst

photos by r. ian lloyd

100

october

islands 49

tsue Akama, 101, makes kimonos on

a hand loom every day; Mr. Matsuda,
82, dives for octopus. their long-life
tips arent about activities, so much
as staying upright and in motion.

the oldest people are

said to live on the island of
Tokunoshima. Getting to it
requires a long layover on
this is Mashu-Ya, a restaurant on
tokunoshima, near where two of
our planets oldest humans lived.

52 islands

october

long life nuggets

Collie Lovell walks miles
of Barbados shoreline every
day. She forgoes imported
food in favor of local produce,
like breadfruit and cassava. And she never misses
her practices for the 50-,
100- and 200-meter dashes.
Yes, at 91, Collie can still
out-sprint people half her
age. Shes a poster girl for
Barbados, which according
to the United Nations has a
centenarian rate not far of
Japans. Public health care is
free in Barbados, but Bajans
take care of their own health
frst. Ramona Flume
Life Expectancy
Macau, China

Mega-casinos pay for most of the

public health-care costs.
84
Japan

An obesity rate of 3 percent (its

34 percent in the U.S.).
84
Jersey (the island, not the state)

Maybe its the grass of Frances

coast. Even the cows live longer.
81
Source: CIA World Factbook

Amami Oshima island, second largest of the Ryukyus.

Its about as remote as it gets
in Japan. With only 76,000
people, the island is largely
untamed, mountains covered in old forest and so wild
it served as a backdrop for an
early Godzilla flm.
But as on the other Ryukyus,
there are plenty of old people
too. I find 101-year-old Tsue
Akama in a small seaside village near the airport.

breadfruit: istock

it takes one meal at

Ura-Niwa, a traditional
izakaya tavern that blends
food, sake and song, to realize that the Ryukyu version
of a Japanese meal isnt like
the sushi at bars back home.
Theres the expected seafood
and seaweed. But rather than
heaps of rice, the islanders get
their starch from purple sweet
potatoes (imo) that grow all
over the islands. There are
also loads of tofu and indigenous favorites like pickled or
stir-fried melon (goya).
And then appearing on the
plate is a huge surprise: pork.
Loads of it. Ryukyuans, like me,
love their pig. Here, its slowbroiled over a charcoal fre, the
protein-packed collagen that
could possibly aid longevity
left intact. My problem, apparently, is that Ive been eating it
entirely wrong.
Slow down, translator
Miho Onishi tells me.
You eat a little and drink
a little, eat a little more and
dance a little, Miho adds.
Thats the Okinawan way. Sure
enough, halfway through dinner, a small folk band launches
into a set of familiar island
tunes. Patrons push back their
chairs and dance between
tables, hands and hips swaying with heavy hula reminders. After six cups of sake, I
fall in line with pork juice on
my chin. If this is the island
secret to long life, Im in.

AFTER SIX CUPS OF

SAKE, I FALL INTO
STEP WITH PORK
JUICE STILL ON MY
CHIN. IF THIS IS THE
SECRET TO LONG
LIFE, IM IN.
When I was a girl, there
Before rushing to catch my
were no cars or roads, she fight, I ask Tsue if she has any
tells me as we sip green tea. guilty pleasures. She blushes.
Her house is a throwback to I love to watch sumo on TV.
bygone days: tatami mats, low
furniture, sliding rice-paper Whats mind-bloWing
doors. To get to school I had as I stare into the eyes of
to walk two hours in each 106-year-old Tama Mine is the
direction six days a week.
thought that she was 9 when
Tsue tells me that shes World War I began. During
been to the hospital only her youth the British Empire
twice the first time when ruled a quarter of the globe.
she was 84 and neither was The Wright Brothers had only
for anything serious. She is recently taken their frst fight.
convinced exercise is why she
She is one of three centehas lived more than a century. narians who live in a group
Not just walking every day, but home in the town of Isen.
also working in her garden and Shes hard of hearing and
making kimonos on a hand moves around with the aid
loom arms moving back of a walker, but she lets out a
and forth for hours. Thats belly laugh when I ask for her
tips to living a long life.
my secret, she says, smiling.
She also employs one of the
Dont think too much. It
long-life factors outlined by Dr. hurts your brain. As if to
Suzuki: She is a devotee of the prove her point, she shows
ancestor worship that prevails me a manga shes reading, a
in these islands over Shinto, Japanese comic-book version
Buddhism and other religions. of Pippi Longstocking. Then
she breaks into song, a
I do it every day, mornditty about saving money
ing and night, she says,
motioning to mementos,
shed frst learned over a
offerings of old blackcentury ago.
and-white photos that
constitute her own
tokunoshima
personal shrine. I
island is where
two legendary
dont really consider
long-lifers were
it worship. Its just to
born and raised.
say hi to my husband,
Kamato Hongo
my parents and
(1887-2003), who
other relatives.

october

islands 53

him (see page 53) looms over

the village square, even though
he died 28 years ago.
He was a real ladys man,
one villager tells me. Someone
once asked him about his
favorite kind of woman and he
said Anyone older than me.
Whenever you went to visit,
he would serve a small portion of shochu and say Please
live like me!
I get my frst sip of shochu
with Seiji and Maru Masano,
the islands oldest living couple, both of them in their late
90s. A party is in full swing on
their porch. A blend of friends
and neighbors down shochu
shots with beer chasers. Its
like a bizarre parallel universe
to spring break, with geezers
rather than college kids. Were
out here every day, says Seiji,
pouring me a glassful.
A former schoolteacher,
Seiji launches into a homily
on the Russo-Japanese War
(1904-05 for those of you who
arent history buffs) before
turning to the subject of aging.
All I know is that I dont like
the reef ofshore from okuma Beach on okinawa is said to have more
to stay still. I want to finish
marine life than the great Barrier reef. the life is older too, we bet.
my life being active, not tired
in a bed. Cultivating the felds
lived to be 116, attributed her I meet 82-year-old Mieko is my joy, harvesting sweet
long life to what she called a Mizumoto at Mashu-Ya res- potatoes. Drinking beer in the
double day staying awake taurant (see page 52). Clad in afternoon and shochu at night.
for 24 hours and then sleep- a silk kimono, Mieko knows of And dancing! Never stop dancing thats my advice.
ing for 24. Sugar-cane farmer Hongos sleeping habit.
Shigechiyo Izumi, who locals
Oh, yes. She swore by her
Its advice I take with me
say reached an incredible 120 48-hour day and always said back to the States. For the
(later research suggests he that was the reason she lived first time in years I go out
may have been 105), claimed so long. But shes the only one dancing with friends and fama daily dose of a brown-sugar I know who did that. Everyone ily. And while shochu is hard
spirit called shochu was his else around here has a normal to find in California, a shot
secret. Ive heard about the day. I saw the people she of Jack goes down just fine,
benefts of pork, dancing and referred to on the way into thank you. This merriment
not thinking too much. And town, cutting sugar cane and may not extend my life past
100, but Im certainly going
now, homemade hooch.
tending bonsai trees.
In Inutabu village, where
Up the road is the village to have a good time trying.
Hongo spent much of her life, where Izumi lived. A statue of * Start Over ISLANDS.COM/BITLO

54 islands

october

IF YOURE CURIOUS
A visit to the Ryukyu Islands wont
lengthen life, but the trips life
lessons may. So will a bottle of
shochu liquor (above). Its considered healthy as it encourages
the production of enzymes that
break down blood clots. Perhaps
the drinks popularity explains why
a study determined Okinawans
are eight times less likely to die
from coronary heart disease than
Americans of the same age.

1OO+

Islands in the Ryukyu

archipelago

IF YOURE SERIOUS
For starters, utilize our trip planner at islands.com/ryukyu. Japan
Airlines ofers service to Naha,
Okinawa, from major U.S. hubs.
Flights (from $1,460) include a
layover in Tokyo. Total travel time
from LA is 17 hours, 20 minutes.
Recover at the swank Nikko Alivila
resort (alivila.co.jp/en), and get
your rst taste of Ryukyu culture
at Suitenrou restaurant. Brace for
the pork, sake, and song and dance.
Longer life requires commitment.

RY U K Y U
ISLANDS

AMAMI
TOKUNOSHIMA

Na h a

OKINAWA

WHERE TO FIND

STRENGTH
Grenada

STORY BY ROBERT STEPHENS

PHOTOS BY JON WHITTLE

A WALK
WITH
TELFOR

He has the most

famous feet in Grenada.
By constantly moving
forward, theyve made
time move backward.

OCTOBER

ISLANDS 55

The smells of spices

dominate Grenadas
interior. The sight of
Telfor changes lives.

Hes 74. Im not 74. He carries a machete over his

shoulder, daring anything to get in his way. I carry a
backpack over my shoulder, a bottle of Advil ready
to soothe a lingering sinus infection. He celebrates
birthdays by rowing or kayaking 54 miles around
the island of Grenada (the only person to do it). I celebrate age by reading about guys like him.
I dont do this for attention, Telfor Bedeau says. I
do it because I enjoy it. It just happens to be healthy.
It for Telfor is walking. He used to cover 30 to 40
miles a day. I dont do long walks now, he admits.
Hey, we all slow down a little.
I only walk 15 miles a day. I row more than I walk.
I cannot comprehend.
He wakes up at 4 a.m. to go walk or paddle. I wake
up about that same time to go to the bathroom. But on
this morning, I am right on Telfors heels. Me in Nikes,
him in orange jellies with two broken straps. Were
walking through natures pain-relief aisle smack in the
middle of the Spice Isle. Ive been told Telfor can nd
cures for anything (arthritis, halitosis, perhaps sinusitis) on the trail, without taking me to a Walgreens.
I dont remember the last time I took a pill, he
says. Pills just complicate your body. I soften my
steps so the Advil stops rattling in my backpack.
He stops and picks up a stem with blue leaves on it.
I stop and pick up his advice. This is vervain. People

56 islands

october

WE SWEAR BY

dark Beer
Ireland

Dont blame
heart disease
on Guinness
(we call blood
sausage to
the witness stand).
Compared to light
beer, a thick stout
has similar calories
but more antioxidants, iron and hops.

CoConUt
All Tropics

Use the milk in

moderation (one
cup has 50 grams of
saturated fat) and go
nuts with the water
(a better source of
electrolytes and b
vitamins than drinks
called bull and
Monster). telfor, the
74-year-old package
of energy in this
story, says coconut
is his staple. one a
day. every day.

mix it with soda water when theyre toasty [feverish].

He speaks with a thick French accent, understandable for a guy with a surname of Bedeau and
who walks to beaches called Grand Anse and Morne
Rouge. I dont really speak French, he says.
There is nothing predictable about this guy.
We take ve more steps before he plucks another
leaf. I try to inhale the aroma through a stufy nose.
Called Santa Maria. Its used for headaches.
For the next hour, he dismantles the medicine
cabinet, pointing out leaves, roots and sticks said to
cure stomachaches, malaria and bruises (or knocks
as Grenadians call them). He whacks a sugar-cane
stalk and teaches me to bite of chunks the way a
lion would rip meat from a carcass. Dont be polite
with it, he says with stalk shards sticking out of his
mouth. The juice is natural energy. I gnaw away,
thinking momentarily that the clock might be ticking backward. Really, Im not tired at all.
We have walked a total of 400 yards.
Are you ready to walk? Telfor asks.
He has on swim trunks because after our hike he
might decide to walk another 5 miles to the ocean for
a swim. I have on jean shorts because I need at least
one deep pocket to hold a stful of Kleenex.
Catch! I look up from my tissue and see the
74-year-old man high in a guava tree. Ive learned

G R E NA DA

INSETS (3): ISTOCK

CATCH!
I LOOK
UP FROM
MY TISSUE AND
SEE THE
74-YEAROLD MAN
HIGH IN
A FRUIT
TREE.
not to be concerned about Telfors hip or his decisionmaking. Hes a boyhood pal, climbing trees and stealing fruit. Good for digestion.
He has no TV, no wife, no vehicle, no refrigerator
and no leftovers. I eat whatever I buy or pick, fresh.
But he does have visible veins percolating from strong
arms on a body slightly taller than 5 feet. Me? I have a
frappe of sweat dripping from my upper lip.
Honestly, Telfor, you do get sick, right? I ask.
I had dengue fever about 25 years ago.
Whatd you take for it? Im thinking ... Advil?
Snorkel ns. I went diving and got better.
Thats it?
I had a hernia surgery in 2012. It slowed me down
for almost a month.
Without trying, Telfors feet have made a positive
impact on his homeland. In the past decade, more of
his countrymen are exercising and fewer are being
diagnosed with diabetes. Everyone sees Telfor walking around the island, says Grenada Tourisms marketing executive Roger Augustine. Then you look at
yourself and say, I need to get out of the house.
Telfor bends down to pick the stem of a black sage
plant. He skins it with his ngers and chews one end
until it frays. This is what I use to brush my teeth.
What do you call it?
A toothbrush. Even his sense of humor is natural.

sUgar Cane
Dom . Republic

the Dr has no commercial sugar-cane

plantations left,
but cane can still
be found growing
wild. Dont let the
word sugar mislead
you. Cane juice is as
natural and potent
as wheatgrass. Chew
the stalk for a sweet
way to reduce fevers
and to hydrate.
Peas and
Porridge
Car riacou

this Caribbean island

has a hospital with
32 beds. there are
rarely more than
six of them in use.
locals credit their
health to eating
homegrown peas
and cornmeal from
infant to adult. And
we only use animal
poop to help it grow,
says a cab driver
named Ceepee.

In the former village of Windsor (two homes

remain among the trees), we become encased in lowhanging fruit. There are plums, sugar apples, noni,
avocados, French cashews. Here you go! This
time hes up in someones star fruit tree.
After four hours and a dozen sneezing ts, I nally
ask Telfor, What do you suggest for this sinus mess?
Go for a swim in the sea, he says with the condence of an allergy specialist. Submerge your head
and snif the salt water into your nose.
It isnt the answer Im looking for. Were in the
pharmaceutical jungle. There must be an instant x
out here. What about all these plants were talking
about? Which ones do you use?
Besides the fruit? I dont use any of them.
He doesnt wheres the hidden camera? Hes sold
me on 23 remedies and he he doesnt use any of them?
Some people believe in this stuf. Im not saying it
doesnt work. But it isnt for me.
When Telfor and I nally part ways at a gas station,
I ask what he carries besides his machete. Water, he
says. Thats my only medicine. And then comes the
return volley. What do you carry in your backpack?
Uh-oh. Has he heard the clattering of Advil?
Theres no telling with him. I take a sip from a water
bottle. Oh, nothing. Its time to go for a swim.
* See Grenada, Take a Cruise with Us: ISLANDS.COM/IOA

october

islands 57

jon whittle

58 islands

october

where to find

comfort
Pete r Is l a n d , BV I

the lands of ahhs ...

Its been a tough day full of even tougher decisions on Peter Island in the BVI. Namely,
upon which beach will I waste away? Im strolling to White Bay Beach when resort general
manager Wilbert Mason phones. Youre all set for our triathlon tomorrow. Triath-what?
Wilbert wants me to experience another side of healthy travel, Peter Island style. So the next
morning I straddle a bicycle seat that could double as a suppository. The birds stop singing,
the clouds part, and with a Looney Tunes cloud of dust, my opponents disappear. Sooo Im
not coming in frst. Chris Ghiorse, the creator of this event, motivates me up the mountain
on the bike. He coaxes me forward on the 2-mile jog. He kayaks next to me until I reach the
fnish line. There, I collapse on the beach, where I wanted to be all along. Jon Whittle

rest assured

Although Peter Island feels like a world away,

its only 70 miles east of Puerto Rico. Fly into
St. Thomas and take a scenic 90-minute ferry
ride to luxury (peterisland.com, $400+).

25

th

annual
photo
conteSt

yo u r
t op
shots

These winning images rose to the

surface, and lef us wanting more.

grand PrIZE

Katie Sheppard
Maui, Hawaii
Its very rare to fnd a curious humpback. This was a special
day. We were 2 miles of Lahaina on my boyfriends boat when
we spotted this whale near a Zodiac raft. It circled our boats
and was spy hopping for 30 to 45 minutes, as if begging for a
picture. Youre not allowed to swim with humpbacks in Hawaii,
so I had my GoPro attached to a 4-foot stick. I set the cameras
timer to shoot at one-second intervals, put it over the side of
the boat and hoped for the best. Shot wIth: GoPro Hero 3
PrIZE: Five-night stay at Aston at The Whaler on Kaanapali
Beach, plus airfare from Alaska Airlines.

60 islands

october

Expert tip:
Embrace the
over-under shot. A
topside image of
this whale wouldve
revealed its nose,
and nothing else.
october

islands 61

Expert tip:
Get centered. This
buildings graphic
nature and symmetry are enhanced by
a head-on approach.

62 islands

october

Expert tip:
Go black and white.
Colors inside this
structure wouldve
distracted from the
shots hero, the boy.

SEcond PrIZE

thIrd PrIZE

Ken Smith, Old San Juan, Puerto Rico

paul ZiZKa, Tanna, Vanuatu

This building seemed to stand out from the others. What

I liked about it were the lines. The doors aligned with the
balconies, and all the diferent rectangles seemed to have repeating lines. I shot this with my 35 mm lens with a panoramic
head, which was a challenge. This image is actually nine
HDR images stitched together. It took a great deal of postproduction work to get all the lines parallel and perpendicular.
Shot wIth: Sony Alpha7R PrIZE: Seven-day cruise for two in
St. Vincent and the Grenadines with Sail Windjammer.

No words were exchanged between this boy and me in Sulfur

Bay. He was staring at me out this window, so I made a gesture
to ask if I could take a photograph. The boy nodded, and that
was the extent of our interaction. I couldnt tell if this structure was his home. Everyone seems to live everywhere, and
children appear to be raised by the village as a whole. I love the
boys quiet confdence. It makes me wish I were back on Vanuatu. Shot wIth: Canon 5D Mark II, 17-40 mm lens PrIZE:
Two-night stay at Little Palm Island in the Florida Keys.

october

islands 63

artIStIc mErIt

matt anderSon
Middle Caicos, Turks
and Caicos

Expert tip:
Lie down. Starting
from a low position
and shooting up
can ofer a better
perspective.

I stumbled upon images of the Conch Bar

Caves while researching the region for
an upcoming trip. Getting to the caves
involved a ferry from Providenciales to
North Caicos, a rental car (options are
limited), lots of biting no-see-ums, and
a drive across a hurricane-weathered
bridge to Middle Caicos. From there,
the caves are of the main road. Beware
of a pack of wild dogs. This image is the
ceiling of Indian Cave. The holes in the
eroded limestone formations reveal the
jungle above, and yeah, the view is worth
the trek. Shot wIth: Canon 5D Mark
II, 24 mm lens PrIZE: One-week photo
workshop at Maine Media Workshops.

Expert tip:
Frame the shot to
show of a spectacular sky. Use
natural elements to
lead your eyes.

rEadErS choIcE wInnEr

alicia BeSinger
Bora Bora, Tahiti
One of my favorite parts of traveling
is sunrise. Its my special time. On this
morning, the sunlight over Mount Otemanu turned the clouds golden. It was
quiet, just the sound of the sea lapping
the sand. I sat next to the palm without
thinking of my camera, but I love how
the tree frames the scene. Shot wIth:
Canon SX40 HS, 24-840 mm lens PrIZE:
A four-day Luxury Included vacation for
two at Beaches Turks & Caicos Resort
Villages & Spa in Providenciales.

64 islands

october

rEadErS choIcE nomInEES

erneSt manewal Borneo

See them all at iSlandS.com/photoconteSt

david honl Moorea, Tahiti

ana martin Sulawesi, Indonesia

jim magerS Kauai, Hawaii

nicole anderSen Ibo, Mozambique

october

islands 65

FreeTravel
Information!

CarIbbean&bahamas
1.

Free brochures, catalogs and other advertiser information. Simply mail the attached
Reader Response Card, FAX toll-free to 888.847.6035, or visit islands.com/freeinfo
for direct access to each Advertisers website and free information.

6.

St. Kitts Ministry Tourism

Follow your heart to St. Kitts

Bolongo Bay Beach Resort

and discover an island of rich

U.S.V.I. - Page 27

history, lush natural beauty

and vibrant cultural traditions.
2.

Cayman Islands Depart-

Page 6

ment of Tourism Experience

FlorIda

mexICo

12. Little Palm Island Exclusive

16. Palace Resorts Offering

Private Island resort. The

all-inclusive resorts in Mexico.

Florida Keys most romantic

Page 76

weddings and honeymoon

destination. Page 9

Caymankind, everything and

everyone that makes a Cayman

17.

Palladium Hotels &

Resorts Five-Star all-inclusive

7.

Westin St. John Resort

hawaII

U.S.V.I. Page 27

Islands vacation so unique.

the worlds finest beaches.

13. aston Hotels & Resorts 26

Page 75
CenTralamerICa

accommodations on some of

hotels and resorts on 4 Hawai-

Perfect for a honeymoon or

family vacation. Page 7

ian islands to fit any lifestyle,

3.

Ocean Club Resorts Our

8.

guests say of all the things to

Barefoot Cay Resort Bay

do here - tennis, water sports

Page 71

and nearby golf - their favorite

mIsCellaneous
14. Big Island Visitors Bureau

From natural wonders to

is doing nothing at all. Page 25

9.
4.

taste or budget. Page 28

Islands, Western Caribbean -

Ports of Call Turks & Caicos

- Exciting, modern and afford-

SunBreeze Suites A perfect

uncommon luxuries, discover

vacation getaway conveniently

more of what you come to

located within a stroll from the

Hawaii for. Page 31

lize on Amergris Caye, Belize.

for a Caribbean vacation.

Page 25

Page 24

15. Marriott Hawaii Resorts

Two thousand years ago, the

Polynesians found the earths

10. Utopia Village Utila Utila Bay

5.

Royal West Indies Turks &

Islands of Honduras. Page 71

Caicos A luxurious beachfront

shores of world famous Grace

Bay Beach in the Turks and
Caicos Islands. Page 24

most sacred refuge. Now Mar-

CruIse/YaChTVaCaTIons
11.

Paul gaugin Cruises Comfort

mulTIpleIslands

Antigua, St. Lucia & the Bahamas - Voted the worlds best
all-inclusive resorts for over a
decade. Page 2-3

riott Hawaii invites you to make

Eden your own. Welcome to the

hotel resort nestled on the

and have some fun! Page 19

19. Sandals Resorts Jamaica,

quaint town of San Pedro Be-

able - the perfect combination

18. Thrifty Car Rental Get out

VaCaTIonrenTals

Hawaiian islands. Page 31

20. antigua Village Beach Resort

Antigua - Page 72

and luxury, with spacious suites

and staterooms, water sports
and an atmosphere of warmth

21. Catered To...Vacation Homes

St. John, USVI - Page 72

and informality. Page 13

22. Cayo espanto

Belize - Page 72

66 islands

october

This is the Maldives, but we

cant say exactly where.

LIVE OFF THE GRID

HAWAIIS PUNATICS
Be careful wandering off into
the woods on the hill, Kemo
tells me. There are some weird
people who come here to drop
out. I should probably mention
that Im on the Big Island of Hawaii, and that Kemo is naked.
Here in Puna, on the black
sand of Kehena Beach, Im surrounded by Rastafarians and
hippies. The air is thick with
marijuana smoke, and I seem to
be the only one wearing clothes.
This particular beach is
southeast of Hilo. An unaware
driver could blow past without

ISLANDS
HOW TO

People come here to

start over ... or to fee
from the law. Puna is the
last of the Wild West.

FROM TOP: YURI/GETTY IMAGES; COURTESY CONRAD MALDIVES RESORT & SPA

REALLY DISAPPEAR

Privacy is
the ultimate
perk especially when it
means
vanishing
into a world
all your own.
These resorts
let you bask
and blend in.

1 IN THE TREES

DOMINICA The
Zing-Zing villa at
Secret Bay, Dominica, is actually a
luxury treehouse
that lands visitors
in the canopy of
the islands rainforest. Its hot tub
offers jungle and
ocean views (from
$723; secretbay
.dm). TRAVELER
BEWARE Two of
Secret Bays three
beaches require
kayaks to access.
ALSO CONSIDER

The treehouses
at Kanopi House,
Jamaica (kanopi
house.com).

2 IN THE SNOW

JAPAN You
wont find a hotel
made from ice in
Iceland. Instead,
try Hokkaido,
Japan, where Ice
Hills Hotel opened
last year. Ice walls,
ice furniture and
an ice bed (covered
with fur) target
extreme snugglers,
and hope to change
perceptions about
winter. TRAVELER
BEWARE The hotel
sprang up in Tobetsu for two months
(Feb.-Mar.). Will
it again? ALSO
CONSIDER Ice fishing in Minnesota.

3 IN THE WATER

MALDIVES A
private island picnic in the Maldives
is hardly news, but
the Soneva Fushi
Resorts take on
it can include a
sleepover on a
sandbank (rooms
from $739; soneva
.com). ALSO CONSIDER
An underwater
picnic at the
Conrad Maldives
Resort & Spa.

realizing it. And thats intentional. The residents here on the edge
of the lava flow commonly refer
to themselves as the Punatics,
and maybe it does take just a
little bit of crazy to live under the
shadow of an active volcano with
no water or electricity.
People come here to start
over, Kemo continues, or to
flee from the law. Puna is the last
of the Wild West.
Im trying not to look down as
I ponder his words. Even under
the reign of King Kamehameha,
this region was a defiant hub of
counterculture, and today I can
see the Punatics are upholding
their biogeographical legacy.
This could be an easy place for
someone looking to leave a life
behind to be reborn anew. Someone who likes to be naked. And a
little bit strange. Jon Whittle
SAMPLE PUNACRACY

Kalani Resort is the spiritual hub of

the Puna community, and offers
work-stay programs. Pack light.
From $95, kalani.com

LESSONS LEARNED RUN FROM THE L AW IN BERMUDA, CAYMAN ISL ANDS, ST. KITTS NO EXTRADITION TREAT Y.

OCTOBER

ISLANDS 67

ISLANDS HOW TO
NORTH
CAROLINA
Southern
Outer Banks

Stay a week or for good:

emeraldislerealty.com

CAPT. GEORGE ASWAD

YEARS ON ISLAND

10

MOVED FROM

Brooklyn, NY
MY TAKES
1. I made better

money up North,
but my wife and I
wanted a safer and
cleaner environment
to raise our daughter. Moving here is
the smartest thing
weve done, by far.
but this is like any
remote island where
it takes time to
blend in. Still, these
are the friendliest
people Ive ever met.

LIVE ON

THE SOUTHERN OUTER BANKS

BEST FOR :

BEACH-LOVING FAMILIES WITHOUT MAUI-TYPE CASH

Our family found this faraway escape in a place known as North Car-o-li-na. We knew about
Asheville, but nothing about Emerald Isle, a sandy dot across a 1-mile bridge from the Carolina
coast. DAILY SNAPSHOT: The coffeepot has been emptied by 7 a.m. Two deer graze in the front yard.
A dog rides a paddle board in the ocean. Wild horses gallop on a neighboring island. And three
kids trot to the water with surfboards. Were seeing a pattern of younger families moving here,
says Mike Crews, owner of Hot Wax Surf Shop. Theyre looking for fresh air, no traffic and good
schools that you dont need to pay tuition for. Also, apparently, a place where no one sleeps in.
MOVER BEWARE: What makes the Crystal Coast appealing is also its biggest challenge only a few
mom-and-pop businesses interrupt the forests and dunes. Its nothing like the touristy northern
Outer Banks (nearly 200 miles by car), and most jobs are outside the island cocoon, meaning back
over the bridge. Which actually points to an advantage, because when we need gas or groceries, we
drive 10 minutes to the mainland and save a bundle. Cant do that on Maui. Robert Stephens

3. Look at the shells

on the beach (points
out perfect conchs
and sand dollars).
Thats how you know
its still quiet here.
Nobodys picked
through them.
TO BUY OR TRY

A SAND CASTLE
(GIANT HOME
ON THE BEACH)
IS $1.8 MILLION
TO BUY, $3,600+
A MONTH TO
RENT. HOMES
OFF WATER ARE
$350,000+ OR
$700 WEEKLY.

LESSONS LEARNED BEST ISL ANDS FOR ORGANIC FARMING: HAWAII, NEW ZEAL AND, SAN JUAN ISL ANDS

68 ISLANDS

OCTOBER

RUSSELL KORD/ALAMY;ROBERT STEPHENS; MAP OF NORTH CAROLINA BY FREEVECTORMAPS.COM

2. It sounds strange,

SPECIAL PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

Blissfully

AFFORDABLE

THE TURKS
& CAICOS
ISLANDS

Travel in style on the T&C island of Providenciales, where upscale accommodations offer many amenities.

ROYAL WEST INDIES RESORT

SANDS AT GRACE BAY

PORTS OF CALL

amenities appeal to all ages, including three

Grace Bay Beach is No. 2 in the world, according

refreshing suites congregate in and around the

to TripAdvisors 2014 Travelers Choice Awards.

pool and hot tub, enjoy complimentary break-

swimming pools, bicycles and water-sports

Pair this stretch of sand and sea with roomy

fast, and have access to the tness room, and

equipment. Youll also be invited to a weekly

accommodations, a variety of restaurants, and

billiards and ping-pong tables.

managers cocktail party.

extras like shopping, golf and activities such

The beach is a quick three-minute walk

Use the promo code 4NF2014 to receive

as visiting a conch farm, and you have a top

or shuttle ride away, and Ports of Call has a

the resorts current fourth-night-free offer.

vacation destination.

designated area there with lounge chairs and

thesandstc.com

Grace Bay Beach is on Providenciales, known

as Provo, the largest of the Turks and Caicos

umbrellas (fee-based).

Royal West Indies Resort, an all-suite getaway

The resort is adjacent to the Ports of Call

on Grace Bay Beach, offers surprisingly afford-

Islands. Its an idyllic place to relax in the

shopping complex with a day-care operation,

able luxury. Guests return year after year, in

sunshine, with soft sands, gentle waters and a

a dive center, restaurants, bars and stores.

part because they nd the staff friendly and the

range of amenities. Plus, its the perfect home

portsofcallresort.com

base for touring its sister islands, each one with

its own personality.

Lodging on Provo is upscale and packed with

value. Read on to learn about three choices.

Provo may be known for its top-of-the-line

nicely appointed suites to be spacious indooroutdoor living areas at a great price.

lodging, but that doesnt mean top-dollar rates.

You might spend your vacation relaxing by the

Especially in the off season, luxury resorts such

quiet pool or making new friends at the pool bar.

as The Sands at Grace Bay appeal to all travelers

Royal West Indies also has the open-air Pelican Bay

Imagine having a Provo sun-and-surf vacation

by providing affordable accommodations and

Restaurant and Bar, en-suite spa services, botani-

within a reasonable budget. Thats what the

an array of guest freebies. The Sands also offers

cal gardens lining the walkways and a tour desk.

Ports of Call Resort is all about.

When Dale Papke recently bought Ports

a fourth-night-free deal for stays booked now

through Dec. 20.

Guests can freely use the house bicycles as

well as the Hobie Cats and kayaks. Lounge chairs

of Call, he gave the property a $3.5 million

Alongside Provos world-famous Grace Bay

overhaul. Today the islands most affordable

Beach, the resorts spacious studios and suites

boutique hotel is a snazzy all-suite escape

are ideal for families, equipped with living/din-

Affordable luxury is a big draw. No doubt, youll

with a sharp, mod dcor. Guests staying in the

ing areas and modern kitchens. A variety of free

be back after your rst visit. royalwestindies.com

and beach umbrellas are available at the beach

and by the pools. Wi-Fi is free.

ISLANDS HOW TO

BY NATHAN MYERS

WHERE :
WHAT :

SUMBA, INDONESIA
PASOLA FESTIVAL

Spears fy. Warriors shriek. Hooves

pound. And Im just trying to keep the

blood out of my eyes. The annual Pasola
Festival on the island of Sumba is an all-out
battle between two clans, and being in the
audience hardly makes us less susceptible
to injury. The saying goes that its not a Pasola until theres blood on the field. Human
blood, that is. Doesnt much matter whose
blood it is, so long as the offering is made.
Last year, our guide, Dato, explains,
a photographer caught one spear in the
eye. He mimes the rest of the story, with
gushing motions from the back of his
head, then hanging limp with a dangling
tongue. Mati, he says. Dead.
The Sumbanese people, called Marapu,
take their tribal feuding seriously. Earlier Id asked Dato, a village chief and local liaison to the luxury resort Nihiwatu,
why all men on the island still carry

swords in their belts. They are useful

for opening coconuts, he says, or when
you have to cut off someones head.
There are no T-shirt or beer concessions at a Pasola. No reasonable tourist
would want to witness this brutal spectacle. Which is exactly why were here. I first
learned of this event years ago while writing about the islands only luxury resort,
Nihiwatu. I knew that someday I would
return. In theory, Pasola is an annual fertility ritual, blessing the coming years crops.
But in practice, its a brutal spectator sport
where neighboring tribes of hot-headed
warriors air out lingering feuds. I recently
founded a small travel-film crew, and the
excuse to document such a primitive ritual

The batle is supposed to

be symbolic, but theres
nothing metaphoric about
the way these men fre their
javelins. If you kill someone
at Pasola, you dont go to jail.

was too good to ignore. Assuming we didnt

get our heads chopped off.
The atmosphere is not celebratory.
Its combustible. From the time we arrive Im asking Dato, Is it time to go yet?
How bout now? No? You sure?
Dato was very clear during our predawn pep talk that our exit might need to
be quick. When its time to go, he told us,
its time to go. No questions.
Pasola begins with a ceremony. As
first light rises upon the prehistorically
epic West Sumba coast, the local shamans
(called ratus) assemble along the cobblestone beach to inspect the quality of the
rare nyale sea worms, which appear in
massive quantities just once a year, marking the day of the festival. The worms are
an omen of the years harvest, and the festival is an offering of blood to the fertility of
the fields. Its as necessary as water.
While the ratus chew betel nut, smoke
clove cigarettes and discuss the worms,

Festival sounds fun, but the blood is no

joke. See the video at islands.com/pasola.

LESSONS LEARNED DANGER? THE CHEESE-ROLLING RACE IN GLOUCESTER, ENGLAND, RESULTED IN 33 INJURIES IN 1997.

70 ISLANDS

OCTOBER

JASON CHILDS; OPPOSITE: LAWRENCE MILLMAN (3)

THE BLOODIEST SPORT

armed horsemen begin

SAFE
The crowd forms the
SUMBA
to assemble nearby. They
perimeter of the field, ducking
A bloodless
ride bareback and barefoot,
errant missiles from either
stay is found at
carrying quivers of spears.
side. I stand back, my head
Nihiwatu ReTheir small and wildpanning side to side, my feet
sort. Bareback
looking horses are ornately
stuck in mud and fear. There
horse rides and
adorned. The riders carry
are no points or referees. No
farm visits are
themselves as true warriors,
winner or loser. A Pasola ends
balanced with
looking their enemy in the
when the whole event erupts
infinity pools
eye. This is their day.
into an all-out riot. Also
and warm cookWe set up our cameras
known as time to go.
ies. $495+,
and try to film the gatherI have no idea where my
nihiwatu.com
ing storm without triggerfilm crew has gone. The crowd
ing any cultural tripwires.
has multiplied and intensified,
Villagers on the beach fill
and when I attempt to change
their pockets with fist-size
camera angles, I discover I can
stones. Ready for the inevitable mutinies.
barely move in the mass of hot flesh and
After sunrise, the two village clans
surging angst. Rocks are in pockets. Swords
one from the mountains, the other from
are on belts. I push past a crew of policethe sea assemble across from each
men in full riot gear. Like me, they have
other on a nearby soccer field. From my
sweat on their faces. Unlike me, they have
perspective, its just a bunch of neighloaded shotguns. One of them catches my
boring Marapu people about to engage
eye, and the exchange of glances is enough
in some crude tribal polo match. But
to persuade me to change direction. Hes
if you know anything about the small
afraid. And if hes afraid it must be time.
island politics and local capacity to hold
Dato and the others are already back
a grudge, they might as well be Crips
at the car, loading up their gear while
and Bloods. The riders circle each other,
recounting war stories. Spears fly past
hurling their spears with deadly intent.
and horses spin out in the slippery mud. I
The battle is supposed to be symbolic, but hear the first rock shatter glass sometheres nothing metaphoric about the way where behind us, back toward the field.
these men fire their javelins. If you kill
Theres a shriek from the crowd. Blood is
someone at Pasola, you dont go to jail.
on the field. Yes, its time to go.

BAY ISLANDS
of honduras

Barefoot Cay Resort

Roatan

Luxury boutique resort on Roatan.

Private beachfront bungalows and villas,
spa, gourmet dining, pool. Valet diving
with 5-star dive center, Barefoot Divers.

866-246-3706
Info@BarefootCay.com
www.BarefootCay.com

Utopia Village Dive & Spa Resort

Utila

DINNER IN THE AZORES This island chain off Portugal

is a real place, with bullfighting in real volcanic craters, where milkmen make
deliveries on real dwarf donkeys. The meals can be surreal. Lawrence Millman

APPETIZER: LIMPETS
Looks like oysters, but no.
After these barnacle-like
mollusks have been pried
loose from their tide-pool
rocks, theyre placed on a
grill. A saut of onions, red
peppers, garlic, parsley and
white wine is dripped onto
each one. Without the sauce,
the limpets taste like rocks.

ENTREE: COZIDO NAS CALDEIRAS

DESSERT: GREEN TEA PUDDING

The truest of stews is cooked

in a volcanic caldera. Cabbage, pork, potatoes and
blood sausage steam for six
hours in the volcanos heat.
How they get it right, I dont
know. The dish does have a
slight sulfur flavor, but its
pleasant. No volcano available? A pot and stove will do.

To say your pudding is made

from dried leaves seems to
suck the sweet life out of
dessert. But these leaves
are special, coming from
Europes only tea plantation.
The flanlike dish is made in
a caramelized pot. No caramelized pot available?
A volcano will do.

Discover Utopias secluded island retreat.

Weekly oceanfront room packages
range from adventurous to romantic and
relaxing -Diving, Yoga and private island
picnics for two!

US 512-333-1684
Reservations@utopiautila.com
www.utopiautila.com

LuxuryVILLAS

GET IT

BeLIze

on the iPad

CAyo eSpAnto A prIVAte ISLAnd

Our fve-star, world-class Belize resort is for the discriminating

few who demand the best life has to offer. 888-666-4282 aprivateisland.com

AntIgUA

Save 62%
when you
purchase
a one year
subscription.

St. JoHn, USVI

Our new digital

version of Islands
is now available in
the App Store, ready
to download.

APP FEATURES:
Free Sample
Issue
Social Sharing
Email Articles
Save Images
And More
AntIgUA VILLAge Personally styled, luxury
beachfront villas and condos set in lush tropical
gardens on one of the most beautiful and famous
beaches on Antigua. antiguavillage.net

CAtered to VACAtIon HomeS

Our private homes are beautifully furnished and
landscaped, all with spectacular deck views and
most with pools or spas. cateredto.com

Apple, the Apple Logo, and iTunes are trademarks of Apple Inc.,
registered in the U.S. and other countries. iPad is a trademark
of Apple Inc. App Store is a service mark of Apple Inc.

W h at N o b o d y t e l l s y o u a b o u t . . .
Le Tahaa Reso rt, Tahiti

last legs

snorkeling

the escape plan

The 8-hour flight from LA

to Papeete on Air Tahiti Nui
held few surprises. Same
with the interisland flight
to Raiatea. But during the
lagoon crossing on the
resorts boat and the walk
down this dock, my eyes
register 100 changes in
water color, roughly.

The coRAL
gARdeN LuReS
The eyeS ANd
huRTS The feeT.
doNT kIck.
JuST fLoAT ANd
gAwk.

Behind me is my bungalow,
with a floor window that
opens like an aquarium top
so I can feed fish. Some
guests have tried to use the
window as an exit, only to
get stuck. They must have
been men because, well, I
think I could totally make it.
Go: letahaa.com

SToRy ANd PhoTo By zAch STovALL

Islands, Vol. 34, No. 6, september/october 2014 (ISSN 0745-7847), is published 8 times a year (Jan./Feb., March, April/May, June, July/Aug., Sept./Oct., Nov., Dec.) by Bonnier Corporation, P.O. Box 8500, Winter Park, FL 32790; 407-628-4802. One year (8 issues) $24
in the U.S. For Canada, add $9 for postage per year. All other countries add $18. Copyright 2014 by Bonnier Corporation. All rights reserved. No part of this periodical may be reproduced without the written consent of Bonnier Corporation. Periodicals postage paid at
Winter Park, FL, and at additional offices. postmAster: Send address changes to ISLANDS, P.O. Box 6364, Harlan, IA 51593. Printed in USA. PUBLICATION MAIL AGREEMENT NUMBER 40612608 CANADA RETURN MAIL: IMEX, P.O. Box 25542, London, Ontario N6C 6B2

74 islands

october

GOING OUT OF THE WAY

TO GIVE YOU OUT OF THE WAY.
THATS CAYMANKIND.

A WORLD AWAY. JUST ONE HOUR FROM MIAMI.

WWW.CAYMANISLANDS.KY

MERE INCHES
ABOVE SEA LEVEL.
HEAD AND SHOULDERS
ABOVE THE
COMPE TITION.
A D U LT S - O N LY

A L L- I N C LU S I V E

1-888-494-1184

L E B L A N C S PA R E S O RT. C O M