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04-24-2013, 07:39 PM
seven
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crazy electrical problems help please lol!! - Page 4 - Jeep Cherokee Forum
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04-26-2013, 07:34 AM
seven
#47
Member
Well I have tried about everything so the only thing I can figure out
is that their is a break some where in the harness.. communication
to the scanner is still a problem so what I was going to do is run a
"pair" of wire from the gray plug on the pcm to the obd connector
My Photos
because I believe I am still not getting the proper ground signal
their.. I am going to follow the path of the white /bk stripe and the
1990 , 1997 ,1997, 2000 Cherokee
vilet/ brown stripe and see if their is any change ?? don`t know
what else to do ,if this doesn`t work gonna sell it as a parts truck..
it is pretty clean has a set of 31 on it and a brush bar lol at the end
of my rope , Thanks to all for the input and advice can`t win them
all but you can try... 7
04-26-2013, 09:51 AM
#48
CCKen
CF Veteran
Maybe you should hold up on jumping wires between the PCM and
the DLC.
Here's a schematic and a diagram of the CCD Data Bus DLC and the
modules connected to the Bus.
THe DLC is just a portal to the CCD Data Bus and really does have
anything to do with "running" the Bus.
If you are having problems with the scanner "Communicating" with
the PCM, note on the schematic that the SCI (Serial
Communications Interface) pin cavities 6 and 7 at the DLC are the
ports for the scanner to communicate with the Bus. These SCI
circuits are connected to the PCM, TCM and ABS Module (if you
have it). Pin cavities 3 and 11 at the DLC are the CCD Data Bus
ports. Pin cavity 16 is used to power the scanner; it gets its power
from fuse 17 in the PDC. Pin cavities 4 and 5 are the grounds for
the scanner; they terminate at the oil dipstick tube mount stud.
You should make sure the pin cavities on the DLC are not corroded
(Gray or Black appearance) and that the pin cavities are not
enlarged by someone shoving meter probes in them.
You can check for power at pin cavity 16 using you Voltmeter (+)
probe to 16 and the (-) probe to 4 and/or 5. You should see battery
voltage.
Edit: The PCM and all modules shown in the schematic must be
connected before doing the followin tests.
You can check the heath of your CCD Data Bus by using your
Voltmeter (+) probe to pin cavity 3 and (-) probe to 4 or 5, and the
ignition switch to ON (RUN), without cranking the engine. You
should see around 2.49 volts. Repeat by going from cavity 11 to 4
or 5. You should see around 2.51 volts.
If these voltages are lower than 1.8 volts or higher than 2.8 volts,
there's a problem on the BUS.
There is a set of resistors in the PCM that control these voltages. If
the voltages are off, check the resistor pack in the PCM by using an
Ohmmeter. Disconnect the battery negative cable, touch pin cavity
3 with the meter (+) probe and cavity 11 with the (-) probe. You
should see 120 Ohms.
If the resistance is lower than 120 Ohms or the voltages are not
within min/max limits, the PCM is bad, a module on the bus is
corrupting the Bus, or there is bad wiring somewhere in the CCD
crazy electrical problems help please lol!! - Page 4 - Jeep Cherokee Forum
Data Bus.
__________________
If we have data, lets look at data. If all we have are
crazy electrical problems help please lol!! - Page 4 - Jeep Cherokee Forum
04-26-2013, 10:28 AM
seven
#49
last try
Member
Ok I weill give that a try but if I remember right the black and
brown stripe wire ground from the pcm I dont think I am getting a
ground from that pin # 5?? I know I have power their and at the
ground next to it #4 the black with brown stripe #5 I have tried
My Photos
three different computers in their so far all with the same results..??
Thanks Bill
1990 , 1997 ,1997, 2000 Cherokee
04-26-2013, 10:42 AM
#50
CCKen
CF Veteran
If all the tests described in the previous post are okay, continue.
Concernng the ASD relay clicking and the E-Fan running; the relay
control coils for these two relays are activated by the PCM providing
a ground path for each relay when conditions are met.
You can check the relay control coil circuits to the PCM in the
following manner:
All PCM connectors attached and the battery connected.
Remove the Fan relay and the ASD relay.
Refer to the relay socket diagram. You're interested in pin cavity 85.
You are checking to see if the relay control ground circuit wires
between the relay (cavity 85) to the PCM are intact.
Using a Voltmeter touch pin cavity 85 with the (+) probe and the () probe to battery (-) post or to the chassis.
With the ignition switch OFF (LOCK) you should see between .02
and .150 volts.
Repeat with the ignition switch to ON (RUN), without cranking the
engine. You should see approximately the same voltages.
At each check wiggle the wires coming out of the PDC, along the
firewall, and at PCM. There should be no change in the voltage
readings.
~~~~~~~~~~~~
Check for relay control wires from relay socket pin cavity 85 to the
PCM for short to ground:
Refer to the relay socket diagram above and PCM connector C3
pinout below.
crazy electrical problems help please lol!! - Page 4 - Jeep Cherokee Forum
__________________
If we have data, lets look at data. If all we have are
opinions, lets go with mine.
04-26-2013, 01:27 PM
seven
#51
Member
04-26-2013, 02:50 PM
PUNISHER
#52
crazy electrical problems help please lol!! - Page 4 - Jeep Cherokee Forum
Senior Member
WOW!! This is sounding like myself right here and the issues that I
am having. Well, not exactly but, everything that CCKen has sent
you he has sent me. Everything that you are seeing as far as
voltage and Ohms is the same thing that I am seeing. When he
referred to one the 5 JBs going bad and one of them went for a
swim...well mine is the one that went for a swim..
04-26-2013, 03:21 PM
#53
CCKen
CF Veteran
Quote:
04-26-2013, 10:11 PM
seven
#54
voltage checks
Member
Sorry got distracted ,anyway no the ign was off.. I rechecked same
results.. going to do the rest of the test tom afternoon a buddie is
stopping by he has a much better scanner and a fluke meter and a
better set of eye`s back, knees ,etc you get the point., lol maybe
My Photos
we are onto something?? it was defitnetly in the off pos key out of
ign.. Bill
1990 , 1997 ,1997, 2000 Cherokee
04-27-2013, 06:52 AM
seven
Member
#55
jb box blues..
Quote:
crazy electrical problems help please lol!! - Page 4 - Jeep Cherokee Forum
04-27-2013, 08:03 PM
seven
#56
Member
Hey everybody just trying to keep everybody that has been helping/
advice updated with latest finds..Today a friend of mine came over
and as CCKEN suggested we started following the ccd bus circuit
with basically the same results,. I took his advice and did not jump
My Photos
it out.. The fan turned on like clockwork and a/c relay clicking away
as soon as the key was turned to the on position which is what we
1990 , 1997 ,1997, 2000 Cherokee
are really trying to get rid of., anyway out of frustration I started
moving any wire I could when I got to the gray plug on the pcm I
noticed if I pushed it in real tight against the pcm the fan shut off
and no relay`s Clicking ?? I think we might have found the problem
as soon as the fan shut off no bus displayed on the cluster, which
my buddy believes is the crank sensor, as it will not start.. when the
fan shut off by pushing gray plug which is now zip tied to pcm,. it
seems like it was before all of this started.. One of the guys that
was helping made the mistake of opening the gray plug and we are
really haveing a difficult time getting it back into the housing.. ?not
sure what to do about that?? Anyway just wanted everybody to
know I think we are makeing progress,, and yes we had cleaned
and checked that plug before but never really pushed it in tight
against the pcm like that.. ?? Pretty sure we are going in the right
direction.. at least I hope?? lol, 7
04-29-2013, 02:18 PM
seven
#57
Member
Just to update it was not the gray plug now that I have repaired
that issue as soon as the key is turned to the on position the fan
and asd relay start clicking and fan running almost thought we had
something?? And now it is a no start issue also.. I see the punisher
My Photos
is going through what looks like the same thing?? I really hope not I
spent a lot of hours and burned a few favors with this issue with
1990 , 1997 ,1997, 2000 Cherokee
04-29-2013, 07:42 PM
#58
scoobyxj
Junior Member
You mentioned in your first post that it would start and run, but you
had to hold the throttle open to make it run. Have you replace, or
swapped out the TPS? Having to hold the throttle open is usually a
dead give away that it's bad. It is one of the 5v sensors and if it is
shorted you would have the "No Buss", and could possibility cause
the coolant temp sender to read wrong (they share the same PCM
ground along with the IATS) causing the PCM to think the motor is
grossly overheated shutting everything down by dropping the ADS
relay.
Also to clarify you are no longer having the A/C issue after repairing
the PCM plug right?
All these sensors, and relay control circuits in question are on your
grey connector. I would double check your work on it, and do a
continuity test on all the wiring associated with the sensors, and
relay control circuits on it.
Last edited by scoobyxj; 04-29-2013 at 07:56 PM.
04-29-2013, 09:28 PM
seven
#59
tps sensor
Member
Hi thanks for the reply, yes I did try switching the tps sensor same
exact response., And when I did repair the gray plug the fan came
right back on as soon as key was turned to the on position, along
with the asd relay clicking..as it has been doing from the start.,
My Photos
Originally it did start and run but the fan would not turn on when it
would hit temperture ,only before it would start even with a cold
1990 , 1997 ,1997, 2000 Cherokee
engine now it will not start it will crank but pretty sure I lost
spark?? .. I am only guessing the crank pos sensor is bad?/ not sure
it was raining here today so didn`t really get to look at it
again..Also kind of running out of patience with it ?? So far I have
changed the alternator, two pcm`s one tcm, ign switch, tps, iac,
crazy electrical problems help please lol!! - Page 4 - Jeep Cherokee Forum
04-29-2013, 10:23 PM
#60
scoobyxj
Junior Member
There is a ohms reference value to use on the CPS to test it, but I
can't remember what it is. However if it's shorted out unplugging it
should cure all the other symptoms. It won't start, but all the
wankyness should be gone.
How close are you to me? If you do decide to give up on it I might
be interested in it it the price it right, and you are close.
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