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PRESSING
Pressing is the application of heat, moisture, and pressure
to shape, mould, or crease fabrics, garments, or garment
parts into the geometric forms.
Pressing may be done:
ELEMENTS OF PRESSING
The three elements of pressing are:
(1) Heat
(2) Steam
(3) Pressure
HEAT
Heat is needed in most pressing processes to soften fibres
and stabilize and set the desired shape.
Temperatures must be selected to suit the fibres, yarns,
and fabrics used in a particular style.
STEAM
Higher the pressure, hotter and drier the steam.
PRESSURE
Too much pressure may distort fabric surfaces, flatten
textures, and create permanent garment and/or fabric
damage.
Pressure may be applied by a mechanical device or by
steam.
Mechanical pressure requires a combination of solid
surfaces such a tables, bucks, or irons to mould the
garment.
OBJECTIVE
1. To smooth away unwanted creases and crush marks
In garment manufacturing accidental creases from
mistakes in previous under pressing; crushes from
handling by no. of operators or from tightly tied bundles
2. To make crease where the design of the garment
requires them
Creases design features in garments (series of creases
pleating)
TYPES
There are two types of pressing1)- In-Process pressing
PRESSING EQUIPMENT
Solidsurface pressing equipment uses a firm surface to
apply pressure, while steam and heat mould the fabric,
garment, or garment, parts.
Pressure may be applied through rolling action, gliding
action, or compression.
Solidsurface pressing equipment consists of buck
presses, irons, blocks, dies, rollers, collapsible forms, and
creasing and folding blades.
2. Iron pressing.
3. Block or die pressing.
4. Form pressing.
5. Steamers.
6. Steam tunnels.
BUCK PRESSING
These are commonly used by manufactures of slacks,
skirts , and jackets.
Components1.
2.
3.
4.
Lower buck
Moveable head with a linkage system
Buck padding stem and vacuum system frame
Manual or automatic control for steams, vacuum, heat
and pressure.
IRON PRESSING
It is a manual molding operation in which pressure and
heat are applied with a flat contact surface.
Components of iron pressing1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Iron
Power line.
Bed buck.
Iron support system.
Steam and vacuum system.
BLOCK PRESSING
It is a molding process that establishes a products
conformance to a form.
It may change the surface characteristics and
dimension of a product.
The fabric is placed on a fixed form before pressure
heat and steam is applied.
It is used to crease patch pockets and pocket flaps.
FORM PRESSING
Form presses are made in the approximate shape of
the finished garments.
Steam is forced from the inside of the form through
garment while the form expands to fill all the space
inside the garment.
It is designed to reduce the amount of positioning
and re-positioning time.
Form Pressing
STEAMERS
These are the pressing machine that uses only steam to
mold and smooth the garment.
Types of steamers1.
2.
3.
4.
steam jets.
steam guns.
steam puffs.
steam tunnels.
Steamers
Steam Tunnels
These are used for final pressing.
Garments are de-wrinkled within a chamber by the
average pressure of circulating steam.
Garments are carried over the nozzle of a steam jet in
order for the garment to receive the full force of the
steam pressure.
It reduces labor costs and process garment at a rate of
1200 to 3600 units per hour.
TECHNOLOGICAL
ADVANCEMENTS IN PRESSING
Advancements in finishing technology focus on several areas Greater versatility.
More precision in determining exact pressing requirement of
fabrics and finishes.
Improved quality.
Energy saving
COMPRESSED AIR
It does work and this work energy must be related to air supply, its
volume and its pressure.
It is used mainly for operating:
Pressure
Normally air at atmospheric pressure
(1 Bar) is compressed mechanically to a
higher pressure of 5 to 13 Bar.
Factors causing excessive pressure
drops are improperly sized air pipes,
inefficient pipe layout, pipe scaling,
corrosion and material.
Pressure drop causes compressors to
work harder and thereby consume
more energy.
Distribution
When compressed air moves within a
pipe, losses are incurred due to friction
and turbulence. Rough surfaces cause
more turbulent air flow and higher
friction. These line losses in a particular
component are expressed as pressure
drop.
Steam line
Vacuum systems are used to remove the excess steam used in the
Equipments of finishing and pressing sub processes and for suction of waste
produced by cutting and sewing sub processes.
Over-consumption in this area is due to:
All or nothing utilization, i.e., even if only one production machine is in
use the suction is being applied to all machines;
Leakage in network;
Extracted hot air is wasted (of steam consumer machines)
Lack of electronic control and frequency variation.
Heat boiler
In the clothing industry thermal energy is used in air conditioning, in
finishing and preparation for sewing sub processes and, in some
companies, for treatment. This energy can either be supplied by direct
combustion of gas in the productive machines, or indirectly through
production of steam or hot water.
Misadjusted burner
Unmodulated burner control
Oversized ventilator or without control
Iron
Ironing is the use of a heated tool to remove
wrinkles from fabric.
Types Of Iron
A. Dry Iron
light weight irons weighing about 1.4 kgs with a heat range of between 70 and
240 degree C and electronic temperature controls that have a reliable accuracy of
+/- 3 degree C.
This type of iron is made in a variety of shapes and is mainly used for smoothing
or finishing operations where steam is unnecessary.
Types of iron
B. Electric Steam Irons
These are the most commonly used type of hand iron and
carry out a wide variety of operations, especially those
concerned with under pressing.
The iron has a heating element and steam is fed from a
central or independent boiler into the steam chamber in the
base of the iron.
The heat generated can be controlled by a thermostat,
and supplied with steam either from factorys main steam
supply or from a small boiler adjacent to the pressing unit.
The steam function of the iron is activated by the touch of
a button.
Components of iron
Sole plate
The sole plate is cast of molten aluminum. Part of the mold creates the holes that
are essential in a steam iron
The cooled sole plate is polished, coated with a non-stick PTFE(a thermoplastic
polymer ) material, or stainless steel.
To polish the plate, an automated belt sander uses bands of abrasive to polish and
buff the plate.
An automated spray-painting machine applies non-stick coating. After application,
the sole plate is baked in an automated industrial process.
Thermostat
Assembly
When all the parts are manufactured, the iron is assembled on an
automated assembly line.
Distinguishing Electric-steam
Iron from All-steam Iron
Steam is used to heat the iron and discharge a moist spray, whereas a steam electric
iron uses a heating element to keep the iron warm and a solenoid holds the steam
from the iron until called for
All steam irons have live steam circulating in the iron and the iron hoses can burst and
scald someone. The steam electric iron also has a hose but the electric solenoid holds
the steam out of the hose until the electric micro-switch is touched on the iron. Thus
there is no steam under pressure in the iron.
In all-steam irons, temperature depends on the pressure of the steam. This limits the
working temperature for the irons between 140 to 1500 C, whereas a steam electric
has a thermostat which will allow the temperature to be finely adjusted from 100 to
2000 C
Types of table
There are three types of iron tables
1. vacuum table
2. up steam table
3. Blow up table
Vacuum table
The vacuum is sucked through the table surface to lay the garment flat
on the surface as well as suck the residual moisture and heat from the
garment after ironing.
Up steam table
In this steam comes up from table surface through garments thus
moistening the garment.
All parts contacted by steam are made of stainless steel. which prevents
spots from corrosion and guarantees a long working life and trouble-free
operation.
Blow up table
In 1969, VEIT invented the blow up table that offers cushioning effect to
the garments due to the upward thrust of air from the table which
prevents ironing marks on the garments.
Air blowing is used in combination with vacuum to assist in finishing
the garment without leaving marks.
It could also use synthetic coarse fibre, which is slide resistant. It keeps
the garment as positioned, has a long life and short-term heatresistance up to 1900 C.
Adjusting Fibre
The Adjusting Fibre guarantees the complete splitting of the condensate
drops and reduces the humidity in the cover system.
Steam Brush
A steam brush is
indispensable to finish off
smoothening out creases and
undoing shrinkage.
It is very rational since it can be
used to finish a hanging
garment on a hanger.
With high quality and strong
steam, it is suitable for finishing
such clothes as light suits,
synthetic fibres and even
gathers and frills.
Parts
BIBLIOGRAPHY
Books referred:
1. Apparel Manufacturing Handbook: Analysis, Principles and Practice:
Jacob
Solinger
2.Carr and Latham's Technology of Clothing Manufacture
Sites Referred:
1.http://www.energymanagertraining.com/equipment_all/boiler/pdf/0507Coal
FiredBoilers.pdf
2.http://209.85.129.132/search?q=cache:WfqBQjs3ze8J:www.energymanagertr
aining.com/equipment_all/boiler/pdf/0507CoalFiredBoilers.pdf+coal+fired+boi
lers&cd=1&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=in&client=firefox-a