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= f (x)
(1)
If this wave shifts to the right with a velocity V, then it takes the form expressed as
= f ( x Vt )
(2)
where t is time.
2
Note: In high school, you must have studied that if a hyperbolic function y = x is
2
shifted to the right by 7, then it takes the form y = ( x 7) . In general, the position
therefore,
t = d d t = V d d
(4)
partial
differential equation:
= V
t
x
or
+V
=0
t
x
(5)
Equations (5) and (2) are mathematically equivalent to each other, and both equations
are expressions of a wave moving one dimensionally toward the right on the x-axis at a
velocity V without changing its form.
2.2 Wave Equation
Equation (2) (or (5)) is a formulation of a wave propagating in the positive x direction
(i. e., to the right). In general cases, there are two wave componentsone moving
toward the left and the other toward the right, which have the same wave velocity and
overlap. For such general cases, the equation of a wave is expressed as the sum of the
two wave components. Hence, in place of equation (2), we must introduce the following
form as a general wave with these two components:
= f ( x Vt ) + g ( x + Vt )
(6)
where f , g are arbitrary functions giving the wave form. By differentiating (6), first
14
with respect to x and then with t, and eliminating the arbitrary functions f , g , we
have the following second-order partial differential equation.
2
2
2
V
=
t 2
x 2
(7)
Equation (7) is mathematically equivalent to (6), and it is called the wave equation of
the one-dimensional case. The wave velocity is often written as c instead of V.
[Mathematical Note]
Solution of a partial differential equation of two independent variables:
We introduce D x and Dt as the operators of partial differentiation in x direction
and time t, that is,
D x = x, Dt = t
(8)
z = f ( x, t )
[Problem 1] Solve the following partial differential equation:
2z 2z
2z
6
=0
t 2
x 2 xt
(9)
( D x2 D x Dt 6 Dt2 ) z = 0
(10)
We can reduce (10) into the following form by using the method of resolution of
factors :
( D x + 2 Dt )( D x 3Dt ) z = 0
(11)
Here, the a table that shows the re-writing rule is prepared as follows:
D x t , Dt x,+ , +
Thus, we obtain the solution of (9) as follows:
z = f (t 2 x ) + g (t + 3x )
(12)
By using the result given in the mathematical note, we can obtain the solution of the
equation of wave (7) in the following form:
= f ( x Vt ) + g ( x + Vt )
(13)
15
2
2
2
2
V
=
+
x 2 y 2
t 2
(14)
=
+
V
x 2 y 2 + z 2
t 2
(15)
T = L /V
or
TV = L
(16-a,b)
k = 2 / L
and angular frequency defined as
= 2 / T
It is possible to rewrite (16-a,b)as
16
Earth. We assume that sea water is a perfect fluid (no viscosity) and has non-vortex
motion; then we can introduce the velocity potential function
2 2
+
=0
x 2 y 2
(17)
(18)
This express the motion pattern in the form of a sinusoidal wave with a wave number
k = 2 L
(19)
= 2 / T
(20)
= F ( y )e i ( kxt )
(21)
following formula
e ix = cos x + i sin x, e i ( x + y ) = e ix e iy , e ix = ie ix
( )
F k 2 F = 0
(22)
This is a second-order linear differential equation with constant coefficients, and its
solution has the following form:
F = C1e ky + C 2 e ky
(23)
= (C1e ky + C 2 e ky )e i ( kxt )
(24)
v=0
at
y = D
(25)
17
no vertical
kD
= C 2 e kD
y = 0
; hence, C1e
y= D
(26)
= C cosh k ( y + D )e i ( kx t )
(27)
e x + ex
. Similarly,
2
sinh, tanh refer to hyperbolic sine and hyperbolic tangent, and they are defined as
sinh x =
e x ex
2
and
The
differentiations are
given
by
boundary condition
v=
+u
,
t
x
at
y =
28
Here we introduce the order of small value. We define that the values (u , v, , )
< >, which are induced by the wave and are linearly correlated with each other are
1
small values of the order of O( ) . The product of any two elements of < > are the
2
values of the second-order small values O ( )
assume that we can neglect values that have a higher order than 2 on comparison with
the first-order ones.
Equation (28) is the condition on the surface y = , and the v -value on the left-hand
side is written in the form of a Taylor series as follows:
[v]y = = [v]y=0 + v
y y =0
+ (29)
Hence, keeping in mind the scope of the linear theory, we can neglect the second- and
higher-order terms.
The second term on the right-hand side of (28) is obviously a higher-order value of
the first term. Hence, (28) can be approximately re-written in the following form:
18
[v]y =0 =
(30)
we can
1 2
+ (u + v 2 ) + g + p / = F (t )
t 2
at
y =
(31)
We neglect second-order terms and assume that the water pressure is equal to the
atmospheric pressure; (31)then becomes
+ g + P0 / = F (t )
t
at
y=0
(32)
We partially differentiate (32) with respect to t, and substitute (31); then we have
=g
2
y
t
at
y=0
(33)
Note: There is an arbitrary function of time, F(t), in the right-hand side of (32), which
implies that it is permissible to change atmospheric pressure; however, this is neglected
in the present case
Substituting (27) in (33) gives the relationship between the wave number k and
angular frequency as
2 = gk tanh kD
Since
(34)
g
tanh kD
k
c=
2D
gL
tanh
2
L
(35)
or
(36)
Since the phase velocity changes with the wavelength, the wave shape cannot always
maintain its initial form, and we call such waves dispersive waves.
= a sin( kx t )
or
= iae i ( kx t ) (37)
where a denotes the amplitude, and 2a is the wave height measured from the
19
is,
C=
ac
sinh kD
(4-28)
Thus, the velocity potential function can be obtained in the following form:
ac
cosh k ( y + D)e i ( kx t )
sinh kD
(4-29)
2D
gL
tanh
(36)
2
L
Here the function tanh x can be approximated as tanh x 1 when x is larger
than 3. On the other hand, it can also be approximated as tanh x x when x is
c=
smaller than 0.3. Thus we can classify waves into three types, according to the value
x = 2D L .
1
When
c = gD
(40)
2 D < L < 20 D .
c=
gL
2
(41)
Naturally, a dispersive wave is present in this case, and the wave velocity does not
depend on the depth D .
[Orbit of water particles]
20
u = ia
v = a
cosh k ( y + D ) i ( kxt )
e
sinh kD
(42a)
sinh k ( y + D ) i ( kxt )
e
sinh kD
(42b)
i ; hence,
By comparing (42a) and (37), we note that both and u are multiplied by
they change in the same phase with each other. By integrating u, v with respect to
time t , we obtain the orbit of a water particle at the position ( x, y ) as follows:
x=a
cosh k ( y + D )
cos(kx t ) ,
sinh kD
y=a
sinh k ( y + D )
sin(kx t )
sinh kD
(43a,b)
This means that each water particle moves on the orbit of an ellipsoid with a center
(x, y) .
(x x )2
cosh k ( y + D)
a sinh kD
( y y )2
sinh k ( y + D )
a sinh kD
=1
(44)
(x x )2 + ( y y ) 2 = (ae ky ) 2
(45)
The Japan Meteorological Agency (Kishocho) has installed pressure gauges on the sea
bed in the sea off Tokai District and off Boso Peninsula. Now, let us consider whether
such pressure gauges can be used to detect tsunamis.
Neglecting the non-linear and constant terms in Bernoullis formula gives
p=
(46)
p = iak 1 2
1
e i ( kx t )
sinh kD
(47)
21
p = g
1
cosh kD
(48)
We expect the pressure gauge at the sea bed to reveal exact variations in depth
p = g in real time. However, in contrast of our expectations, (48) shows that there
1 cosh kD , which becomes multiplied on the pressure data.
is an attenuation factor
JMA set four tsunami sensors at depths D = 1912 4011 in the Tokai and Boso
regions. Okada (1991) proposed a diagram showing the relationship between the period
T (s) and the attenuation factor 1 cosh kD . We note that a wave component with a
period less than 2 min cannot be observed by such a type of sea bed pressure.
Since the period of a tsunami wave is generally 5 to 40 minutes, those pressure
gauges function as a detector of tsunamis, but not as a detector of wind waves and
swells.
dx
h
(A)
(B)
First, let us consider the potential energy difference between conditions (A) and (B)
shown in the figure. The potential energy is given by mgh , where
m is mass and
h is the height difference. In the present case, since m = hdx and h = h, the
2
potential energy dE of the unit cube is given by dT = gh dx.
a
dx
dx
x
L/2
T=
L 2
g 2 dx = g
sin 2 kxdx =
22
1
ga 2 L
4
(49)
(50)
2
x
+ y2 dS =
dl
n
(51)
III
II
The integral along II is obviously zero since n = y = [v ]y = D = 0 .
The integrated functions on I and III are identical and the direction of the integral
paths are opposite to each other; hence, the integrals along I and III cancel each other.
Thus, the kinematic energy in one wavelength is given by
V =
dl
2 IV y
(52)
= v = t Hence, we have
y
L
1
1
V = t dl = tdx
2 IV
2 0
(53)
23
1
1
V = g dx = ga 2 L
2 0
4
(54)
Thus, we have proved that the total energy E is divided equally between the potential
and kinematic energy components.
24