Installation of Pumpkin Android Head Unit For Ford Mondeo

Installation of Pumpkin Android Head Unit for Ford Mondeo / Focus / S Max
This is my installation guide for the Pumpkin Android Head Unit. I installed it on my 2008 Ford
Mondeo Estate. Installation may be slightly different for Focus / S Max.
The head unit model that I purchased:
Pumpkin 7 inch Quad Core Android 5.1 Head Unit Double Din Car DVD Player Stereo for Ford Focus
Mondeo Galaxy S-max Support Mirror-link GPS SWC DVD 3G Wifi Cam-in OBD2 DAB+
http://amzn.to/2eWi6Sz
The optional DAB module that I purchased:
Pumpkin External DAB/DAB+ Digital Radio Box with Touch Control for Pumpkin Android Car DVD
Player
http://amzn.to/2f2sKow
For ease of use of this document, in most cases each image is on a new page. All pages are
numbered.
First of all, heres the tools I used to do the job, and what came in the box:
A telescopic magnet. Great for keeping screws secure as youre loosening them, so that they dont
fall into irretrievable places. Also great for retrieving screws that have fallen into irretrievable places
because you forgot to use the magnet in the first place
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A multi-bit ratchet tool specifically for Torx bits
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A thin piece of plastic this loyalty card was perfect for the job.
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All of the cables had slightly different shaped connectors although they were all square or
rectangle, they had grooves in them, making it easier to know where to plug them into the head
unit.
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This is the cable for the reverse camera. Its very long, but unfortunately, not quite long enough for
the Mondeo however, that could quite possibly have been due to the way that I installed it.
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The head unit comes with two cable harnesses. This one has the CANBUS unit attached I think
(although I could be wrong) this keeps the steering controls working (change track, volume, etc.) This
is the harness that I installed, and my steering controls still work. The second harness went back in
the box. In my experience, when I have purchased a new head unit, I have had to purchase the cable
harness separately.
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This is the second cable harness.
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This is the GPS antenna.
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This is the cable that the mic for the hands-free kit plugs in to.
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A USB B to normal USB expansion cable. This can plugs directly into the front of the head unit.
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A radio antenna adaptor (I didnt need it, the antenna on the Mondeo plugged straight into the head
unit)
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The hands free mic, with sticky tape. Very easy to place discretely in the car.
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More cables. I believe these are for individual speakers / subwoofers / TV in headrests. As I didnt
need any of these, and space is at a premium, I left these out.
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The reverse camera.
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Screws for the reverse camera! I had no idea what these were for, they werent marked up. I
thought it best to keep them just in case very happy that I did!
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The remote, complete with battery, even though the description says battery not included.
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The head unit! Comes with a protective film on the screen. Leave this on! So glad I did. The film got
scratched when I installed it the screen did not. I would have cursed myself if I had scratched the
screen!
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The DAB aerial. DO NOT chop off the yellow bits. They peel away, leaving a sticky strip around the
width of a normal piece of sellotape, to which the wire for the antenna is attached.
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The actual DAB receiver. This is bulky, but I was able to place this easily into the car.
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Pre installation. The old Sony 6000 6 CD head unit. If, like me, you had 6 CDs in the unit, you may
want to remove them prior to installation. I forgot to do so. Doesnt matter, the CDs were pretty naff
anyway
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Head Unit Installation

To begin, you need to remove the trim surrounding the cup holders in front of the gear knob and the
gaiter around the gear knob.
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I was able to simply grab the leather gaiter trim, and gently lift it out of place. Once you have done
that, the plastic surround also lifts out of place.
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Then, using the hard plastic tool, where the cup holders are, insert it between the soft trim of the
edge and the hard trim of the plastic, and gently prise it up. It will start to lift. Prise it up again along
the edge, until you can lift it out. If you have the heated/cooled controls, you will need to disconn ect
the connector so that you can completely remove the cup holder trim. Gently pull it way from the
heater controls. When you have done that, place it out of the way.
Trim removed. Notice red clip at centre bottom of screen this is heated seats connector.
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Now, using the thin plastic card, remove the triangle shaped blank plate on the left just insert it
and flex and It will pop out. Do the same for the right (even if your vehicle has the Ford Power
button, like mine).
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At this point, remove the Ford Power button connector. I didnt want to do this, but I had to in the
end, so just do it straight away. You may want to tie some string around the connector though
mine slipped away, and although I managed to get it back relatively easily, at the back of my mind
was some doubt as to whether Id ever be able to start my car again
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Now its time to start with the screws. Grab yourself a container of some kind to keep the screws in
I just used an empty yogurt pot. It keeps them all in the same place, and youll not lose any. Then
grab your driver and bit set. Youll need a Torx 20 bit and a magnet to remove six screws:
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Once youve removed those, you can gently remove the entire fascia. You will also need to
disconnect three cables at the top of the fascia (Parking Sensors / ESP; Hazard Lights; Front/Rear
Heated Screen) as well as two connectors at the bottom, for Climate Control Unit. You dont NEED to
disconnect the Climate Control, but if you DONT the fascia stays on top of the gear stick and gets in
the way. The top clips are highlighted below. As you can see, Ive also removed the Ford Power
button connection at this point, which made it easier to access the screws.
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Once that is out of the way, you have six screws to remove, which will loosen the head unit itself:
Incidentally, it was at this point of the installation that I realised that I had left CDs in the head unit.
Oh well, no going back now!
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Using the telescopic magnet means that the screws are easy to grab before falling into the black hole
of the back of the dash.
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Once the six screws are removed, there are two brackets that are holding the head unit it. Just press
to the side to release the head unit.
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The head unit should slide right out and you should be left with something looking like this:
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The head unit is still attached by the original cable harness. It took me a while to work out how to
unclip it, but it basically hooks in like a hinge, and comes out in the same manner. When that is
unclipped, the head unit is free, and your car should now look like this:
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Now it comes to the fitting of the actual unit. First of all, pl ug in all your secondary connectors USB
ports, Bluetooth speaker mic, DAB receiver (if you have one), GPS antenna.
For easier fitting of all the wires, I used a hacksaw and removed the small plastic ledge that you can
see here (red box):
The small black box that is the DAB module I fixed to the shelf (yellow box) where the three red
connectors are, making sure that it would not be in the way when the fascia was put back into place.
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Now that you have space, feed the wires in. There is a small gap to the left which is a passage to the
passenger foot well (highlighted below) through which I pass the USB extension, reverse camera
cable, hands free mic, GPS antenna and DAB antenna. I wish now that I had pass the hands free mic
through the same gap on the right hand side, so that the mic could be fixed under the steering
wheel, but this isnt a big deal to me.
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When you have threaded all your cables, connect the cable harness that came with the unit to the
head unit and the existing harness, and then gently slide the head unit back into place.
The installation can look quite messy!
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Once all your cables are connected, you may want to power up the head unit (if you have the Ford
Power button, you will need to reconnect it at this point) just to check that everything is working
before you put it all back (particularly functions you plan to use, i.e. radio, DAB radio, GPS, etc. Also,
put the vehicle into reverse, even if the camera is not fully connected you should see a yellow
exclamation mark which tells you that it detects that the wiring is in place but there is no camera
feed).
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Once you are satisfied that everything works as it should, slide the head unit back into place. It
should click in.
Replace the six screws to secure the head unit in place:
If you havent already done so, reconnect the Ford Power button.
Reconnect your Climate Control connectors, as well as your Heated Front/Rear Screens, Hazard
lights, ESP and Parking Sensor connectors as well as the main fascia.
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The fascia should click back into place.
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Replace the screws.
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Replace the triangular blanking plates / Ford Power button.
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Take your cup holder trim, and reconnect the heated / cooled seats if necessary. Then place it first of
all up near the cigar lighter, and then gently push it into place.
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Replace the gear knob gaiter surround.
Press it firmly in place.

Then press the leather gaiter into place.
Your head unit is now in place and working!
However, you probably have a plethora of wires in the passenger foot well:
A = USB Extension 1 B = USB Extension 2 C = Reverse Camera Wiring

D = Front camera wiring (this is not something that came with the head unit, this is something that I
bought separately and will be wiring up in the future)
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Heres what I did:

Hands free mic:
Feed the mic cable up the centre console towards the gear knob. There is a join in the console that,
if you gently separate, you can snugly fit the cable into. Trail the cable under the ashtray, and secure
the mic using the sticky tape just in front of the gear knob.
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DAB radio antenna:

Secure the cable under the rear of the glove box. Tuck it under the rubber door seal, and feed it up
the passenger door, all the way up to the roof. Remove the pillar casing, feed the cable down the
other side, and attach the antenna to the inside of the windscreen.
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Notice the clear tape still attached!
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GPS antenna:
Like the DAB cable, secure the cable under the rear of the glove box. Tuck it under the rubber door
seal, and feed it up the passenger door until you reach the top of the dash. Hide the wire between
the dash and the door pillar, and feed it to the windscreen. Then hide the cable between the
windscreen and the dash, and fix the GPS antenna to the windscreen. Unfortunately, this antenna
does not come with back to back tape, so you will need to work out how to stick it to the windscreen
or dash. I tried using bluetack on the dash, but it did not work. It is currently stuck to the windscreen
with bluetack, but I will probably change this to double sided tape and stick it to the dash.
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USB extensions:
These are just hanging down into the passenger foot well for ease of access. They are not in the way
and not likely to get caught up.
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Reverse Camera Installation:

My head unit came with the wired reverse camera. There is a wireless option. After installing this, I
would recommend getting the wireless camera!
First of all, feed the black cable along the passenger side, in the rubber sills of the front passenger
door and rear passenger door.
Due to the way that I installed this, I ran out of cable. I couldnt then feed it along the glovebox and
passenger sill, instead having to come this way, under the passenger seat. When you feed the
camera cable through, dont leave any slack behind the head unit, bring all the cable out. Its easier
to hide the slack in the tailgate than to wish you had an extra fe w inches!
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When you get to the rear passenger door, feed the cable up the rubber until you get to the boot
area. Then unclip the plastic trim. This is just clipped on, find some leverage and pull firmly.
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When it is pulled away, you can feed the cable into there and then under the long plastic boot trim,
without having the remove this piece of trim.
This trim doesnt need to be removed, the wire can just be fed under it by pulling gently at it from
the bottom.
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Feed it all the way along to the rubber seal of the boot, and then feed it up. Remove the plastic
vented panel again, this just unclips.
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Feed the black cable up into the roof so that it comes out where the rubber grommet is. I wasnt
able to feed the cable through the rubber housing that would be ideal, but I had to just have it
running around the outside. Feed it into the next grommet which means that the cable is now in the
tailgate.
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All the black plastic trim around the tailgate comes off by pulling it firmly.
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This is the entire black plastic trim from the boot.
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Now for some dodgy electrical work The red cable from the camera is going directly into the
connection for the reverse light. The black cable from the camera has been fixed to the metal
bodywork of the car. Its not a clean job, but Im no electrician and Im happy with it, so it stays!
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To remove the part of the tail gate where the boot release is, undo these two screws.
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Dont just pull on this like I did, youll scratch the paint
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What you need to do is release two nuts from the inside which corresponds to this hole
and one on the left:
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Once you have done that, the trim is loose but still attached, to the boot release switch and the
number plate light switches.
Now you just need to position the camera, make sure that it works (even a dodgy wiring job like
mine worked!) and then carefully drill into the plastic trim to connect the camera.
Secure it using the two screws that are provided, and replace all the plastic boot trim.
The camera is installed and should be working!
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Installation of Pumpkin Android Head Unit For Ford Mondeo

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Installation of Pumpkin Android Head Unit for Ford Mondeo / Focus / S Max

A multi-bit ratchet tool specifically for Torx bits

This is the second cable harness.

This is the GPS antenna.

The reverse camera.

Head Unit Installation

The installation can look quite messy!

The fascia should click back into place.

Replace the screws.

Replace the triangular blanking plates / Ford Power button.

Replace the gear knob gaiter surround.

Press it firmly in place.

A = USB Extension 1 B = USB Extension 2 C = Reverse Camera Wiring

Heres what I did:

DAB radio antenna:

Notice the clear tape still attached!

Reverse Camera Installation:

This is the entire black plastic trim from the boot.

and one on the left:

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