How to build a Freetronics Kit Ten Clone

This article describes how to construct an Arduino compatible clone of the Freetronics Kit Ten. The project came about in a moment
of madness, when
I decided to not wait for the release of the Kit Ten but to construct a clone from the Freetronic pre-release photos and the pdf
schematic.
A word of warning, this project, although relatively simple isnt for the faint hearted, as it requires a fair degree of precision during
construction, to
achieve a successful result. On the other hand I got it running first time! ... yes its true. Im pretty sure most people would be happy
to wait for the
release of the Kit Ten and go from there but if you feel like a challenge and need that rush from building something from scratch,
this could be for you.
As mentioned previously Freetronics have kindly provided a pdf schematic of the Kit Ten. I have only altered it marginally replacing
S1 with a miniature
single pole tactile switch and offering a couple of voltage regulator ( IC1 and IC3) options (fig i) Also for the power jack, I have used
a 2.5mm jack instead
of a 2.1mm jack. There is no protyping area on the clone, as not having access to plated through hole technology and the like, the
board real estate was
too limited. Anyway, in MHO, prototyping shields should be able to provide ample development options. Would also have liked Tx
and Rx LEDS but
once again, not enough real estate.
There is no way the clone can compare with the professional finish of the Freetronics Kit Ten board. I must admit that I found the
drilling and the
soldering of the clone board to be most challenging. So, if you do decide to proceed please be aware of this and only those with
good soldering
skills should attempt this project.

Page 1 of 5

(Fig i)
The first thing to do is to design and build a printed circuit board. I used the Toner Transfer method and a Creative/GBC A4
laminator. Hydrochloric acid
(28% v/v) and Hydrogen Peroxide (12% v/v) in a ratio of 2:1 was used as etchant. A word of warning, this mix is pretty reactive and
requires handling with
care. On the upside, this etchant will etch a copper board in under five minutes.

Page 2 of 5

(Fig ii)
Please note that this foil pattern is for the Kit Ten Clone Version 1.1(fig ii). If you look closely at the photos of the completed clone
(Version 1.0) (fig vii)
you will see that the board layout is slightly different. This just involved a few alterations to accommodate S1 better. No big deal
but its nice to be aware
of this!
Since we are constructing a single sided, through hole pcb and we dont have access to high tech pcb fabrication gear, we need to
use several wire
links on the top of the board. The following picture (fig iii) shows the bottom side of the board, pads (green) and the etched tracks
(blue). The wire
links on the top of the board are shown in red.

(fig iii)
Following is a picture(fig iv) of the wire links (red) on top of the board and the relevant connection pads (green), which they
span.

Page 3 of 5

(fig iv)
Next, a picture(fig v) shows the component layout on the top of the board and the relevant connection pads (green).

(fig v)
Lastly, to help with the layout are a couple of photos of the completed and operational Kit Ten clone Version 1.0. The first photo (fig
vi) shows the
pcb, not bad if I say so myself and the second (fig vii) shows the clone running the ubiquitous blink program as a test!

Page 4 of 5

(fig vi)

(fig vii)

I wish you luck, there should be enough information here to enable you to successfully produce your own Kit Ten clone, after all, I
did.
I have ordered a Freetronics Kit Ten kit, as I must admit Im blown away by the features it offers compared to much of its
competition. Just because
we live in the antipodies doesnt have to mean we cant produce good stuff.
If you do decide to take the plunge and have any questions concerning this project, please feel free to contact me by email at,
matthodge@iinet.net.au
and I will try to help you out. Good luck!

Page 5 of 5