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THE BIG
HOLIDAY
WISH LIST
The Most
Influential
Menswear
Shows of
All Time
The New
Status
Symbols
THE LIVING
LEGENDS
OF JAZZ
Dressed to the
Nines & Still
Making Noise
KING
KENDRICK
LAMAR
Rick Rubin
Interviews
Raps
Fearless
Genius
32
Pages of Fashion,
Watches, Scents,
And Ceramics
SIX EPIC
DESIGN
ESCAPES
TA B L E O F C O N T E N T S
VO LU M E 1
ISSUE 3
THE BIG
HOLIDAY
WISH LIST
142 Dynamite
Gift Ideas for
Your Home,
Office & Closet
coat $2,995
Michael Kors
sweater $1,135
The Elder
Statesman
P .48
P .42
P .34
P .62
P .64
P .54
P .36
P .58
P .40
P .50
20
TA B L E O F C O N T E N T S
VO LU M E 1
QUICK READS
F E AT U R E S
JA ZZ GIANTS
66 5 Labels on Fire
Missoni, Acne Studios,
Noah, and more
90 Kendrick Lamar
in conversation
with rick rubin
22
ISSUE 3
jacket $3,840
Prada
HOLIDAY 2016
GQStyle
24
1.
We met up with Rose
Bertram and Greg van
der Wiel in the Alps.
I like to call them the
couple of the future.
2.
Pharoah Sanderss
1969 LP Karma. My
favorite jazz album
of all time (right now, at
least). Having Pharoah
in our jazz portfolio
makes my soul soar. So
does his music.
3.
Ive spent 19 months
listening to Kendrick
Lamars To Pimp
a Butterfly, and Im
still uncovering new
layers of meaning
and lightning bolts of
genius with every listen.
4.
Me on location in
the mountains above
Zermatt, Switzerland.
Will Welch
editor-in-chief
HOLIDAY 2016
GQStyle
C L O C K W I S E F R O M B O T T O M : D A R I A K O B AYA S H I R I T C H ( 2 ) ;
C O U R T E S Y O F I M P U L S E ! R E C O R D S ; PA O L A K U D A C K I . T O P R I G H T, N E C K L A C E : M A R T I N E A L I .
editor-in- chief
Will Welch
DESIGN DIRECTOR
Fred Woodward
MANAGING EDITOR
DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY
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C R E AT I V E D I R E C T O R
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FA S H I O N E D I T O R
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Mark Anthony Green
Samuel Hine
Victoria Graham
John Muoz
Jim Gomez
Howard S. Mittman
A S S O C I AT E P U B L I S H E R , G Q S T Y L E
A S S O C I AT E P U B L I S H E R
A S S O C I AT E P U B L I S H E R , M A R K E T I N G
EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR,
F I N A N C E & B U S I N E S S O P E R AT I O N S
A D V E R T I S I N G D I R E C T O R , I N T E R N AT I O N A L FA S H I O N
EUROPEAN SALES DIRECTOR
E X E C U T I V E D I R E C T O R , LU X U RY & V I D E O
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ACCOUNT DIRECTOR
LU X U RY G O O D S D I R E C T O R
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E D I T O R I A L A S S I S TA N T S
A S S I S TA N T T O T H E E D I T O R - I N - C H I E F , G Q
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EXECUTIVE EDITORS
fashion
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photo
SENIOR PHOTO EDITOR
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E V P C O R P O R AT E C O M M U N I C AT I O N S
S V P B U S I N E S S O P E R AT I O N S
S V P C O R P O R AT E C O N T R O L L E R
S V P M A N A G I N G D I R E C T O R 23 S T O R I E S
SV P N E T WO R K S A L E S & PA R T N E R S H I P S , C O N D N A S T &
CHIEF REVENUE OFFICER, CN
S V P F I N A N C I A L P L A N N I N G & A N A LY S I S
S V P S T R AT E G Y 23 S T O R I E S
S V P A D P R O D U C T S & M O N E T I Z AT I O N
SVPLICENSING
S V P R E S E A R C H & A N A LY T I C S
S V P D I G I TA L O P E R AT I O N S
SVPHUMAN RESOURCES
G E N E R A L M A N A G E R D I G I TA L
Cameron R. Blanchard
David Orlin
David B. Chemidlin
Josh Stinchcomb
Lisa Valentino
Suzanne Reinhardt
Padraig Connolly
David Adams
Cathy Hoffman Glosser
Stephanie Fried
Larry Baach
Nicole Zussman
Matthew Starker
Dawn Ostroff
Joy Marcus
E V P C H I E F O P E R AT I N G O F F I C E R
Sahar Elhabashi
EVPMOTION PICTURES
Jeremy Steckler
E V P A LT E R N AT I V E T V
EVPCN STUDIOS
S V P M A R K E T I N G & PA R T N E R M A N A G E M E N T
Joe LaBracio
Al Edgington
Teal Newland
Jonathan Newhouse
Nicholas Coleridge
communications
Carly Holden
e d i t o r - i n - c h i e f, g q
P L
E
R E
C
L E
T
H
Anna Wintour
artistic director
Jim Nelson
IS
C O M M U N I C AT I O N S D I R E C T O R
M A G A Z
CONTRIBUTORS
Erykah Badu with
her mother, sister,
and daughtersall
wearing clothes from
one of the best-kept
secrets in American
style: the L. A. shop
called RTH.
Erykah Badu
INTERVIEWEE
Christian Weber
Paola Kudacki
PHOTOGRAPHER
PHOTOGRAPHER
Rick Rubin
Kendrick Lamar, p.90
Hey, Rick, whats the best holiday gift
youve ever received?
Spending time with friends and loved
ones in a beautiful place, enjoying nature.
Nothing competes.
30
HOLIDAY 2016
GQStyle
INTERVIEWER
32
HOLIDAY 2016
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THE
T H E B I G H O L I D AY W I S H L I S T
FROM LEFT
Patek Philippe
$22,000
Hublot x Berluti
$29,400
Rolex $37,550
Audemars Piguet
$44,100
34
JOSS McKINLEY
HOLIDAY 2016
GQStyle
1.
The New
Standard in
Gold Watches
Men are like raccoons: Were
attracted to ashy objects.
But if youre the kind of guy who
doesnt just want a gold watch
you want the gold watchsitting
boldly at the top of your wish
list, you no longer have to choose
from 50 dierent options.
You only have to choose from four.
T H E B I G H O L I D AY W I S H L I S T
2.
Killer Croc
Ralph provides a
miniature padlock
in case you dont want
strangers stealing
whats inside your
bag. As for someone
stealing the bag
itselfnot much he
can do for you there.
FROM LEFT
Santoni $8,900
Ralph Lauren
$25,000
36
JOSS McKINLEY
HOLIDAY 2016
GQStyle
Herms $22,000
Brioni by Justin
OShea $27,850
38
HOLIDAY 2016
GQStyle
T H E B I G H O L I D AY W I S H L I S T
no..
3.
Dynamic
Turtlenecks
The turtleneck used to be seen as the
dressiest, dandiest, most louche piece
of knitwear. But right now the coolest
way to wear one, whether layered or on
its own, is with nonchalance.
A turtleneck
is already a more
advanced sweater.
To take it up another
level, find one with
a surprising sartorial
detail (like those
elbow patches) or a
busy pattern (like
this floral jacquard).
Dior Homme $920
+
pants Dior Homme
T H E B I G H O L I D AY W I S H L I S T
GQStyle
HOLIDAY 2016
BJA R N E J O N A SSO N
41
T H E B I G H O L I D AY W I S H L I S T
4.
Sublime
Ceramics
Architectural Pottery
SA N DIEGO
Made by hand in
the U.S. since 1950,
these strikingly
simple geometric
planters were
favorites among
midcentury architects
and have been
exhibited at MoMA.
$270$1,150
architectural
pottery.com
GQStyle
HOLIDAY 2016
J O SS Mc K I N LE Y
43
no.
T H E B I G H O L I D AY W I S H L I S T
1. Settlewell
2. Shino Takeda
3. K&R
L ONG BEACH, CA
BROOKLYN
L O S AN G EL ES
Tie-dyed concrete,
anyone? Laura
Cornman uses
handmade molds
and pigment
blends to ensure
that each piece
transcends
the ordinary.
$50$70
settlewell.com
Originally from
Kyushu in southern
Japan, an area
known for its pottery,
Takeda playfully
blends traditional
Japanese forms with
the vibrant energy
of her new home in
New York.
$280
shinotakeda.com
Husband-and-wife
artists Kat Hutter
and Roger Lee make
high-fired stoneware
that looks good
enough to display,
but is meant to
be used on the daily.
$60$250
katandroger.com
4. Akio Nukaga
5. Suzanne Sullivan
K A SA M A , JA PA N
B RO O KLY N
The Japanese
master potter throws
clay pots that look
like they could be
from ancient times.
Theyve been sold
and exhibited around
the world at places
like Heath Ceramics
in San Francisco
and Merci in Paris.
$130$580
akio-nukaga.com
GQStyle
HOLIDAY 2016
45
no.
T H E B I G H O L I D AY W I S H L I S T
6. Derek Wilson
Ceramics
7. Clam Lab
B EL FAS T
By using unique
glaze and re-firing
pieces several
times, ceramicist
Clair Catillaz creates
primitive designs
that look like ancient
unearthed artifacts.
$60$350
clamlab.com
C ATSK ILL, NY
8. Robert Hessler
9. Heath Ceramics
K IN G STO N, N Y
SAUSAL I T O, C A
One of Californias
original potteries
and still in the
game, Heath makes
simple, modern
pieces that serve as
an ideal entry point
for any burgeoning
ceramics-head.
$26$122
heathceramics.com
GQStyle
HOLIDAY 2016
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T H E B I G H O L I D AY W I S H L I S T
5.
Gloves with
Punch
Yep, theres a chance that if
you buy nice gloves youll
leave them at coat check or
in the back of an Uber. But
its also true that timidity in
style is never rewarded. So
strap on your positive mental
attitude and buy a legit pair
of gloves. Wear them with
pride and make them part of
your regular winter routine
and youll nd that theyre as
easy to keep track of as your
keys, wallet, and iPhone
but they pack way more style.
J O S S M C KINLE Y
Hestra $144
Dsquared2 $465
Prada $345
Tods $445
GQStyle
HOLIDAY 2016
49
Mad et Len
Terre Noire
If there is a more
tasteful, distinctive
way to enhance the
smell of your living
space than with
scented amber rocks
in a blackenediron tin, we arent
aware of it.
$145
50
JOSS McKINLEY
HOLIDAY 2016
GQStyle
T H E B I G H O L I D AY W I S H L I S T
High Lonesome
by Mondo Mondo
for Land
Fragrance-andjewelry maker Mondo
Mondo teamed with
the Texas-based
design house Land on
this scent fit for a
cowboy. (See: notes of
mesquite, leather,
dirt, and desert rain.)
$175
Cinnamon Projects
Incense sticks from
this New York City
based creative agency
come marked with
the time of day that
inspired them. Burn
the 7 a.m., infused
with black tea and
marigold, before work,
and the 2 a.m., infused
with cedarwood,
cinnamon, and honey,
after a night out.
$30 for 25 sticks
$240 for burner
6.
Glorious Smell-Goods
The dawn of the artisanal-everything era has brought with it a fresh, fragrant
universe of unique colognes, candles, incense, and more. From mystical
room-cleansing wood to a new scent from an Italian luxury juggernaut, these
are the gifts of good smell to give (and receive) this season.
1. Santa Maria
Novella Acqua di
S.M. Novella-Parfum
You want old-school
pedigree? This fresh,
citrusy scent was first
made by Dominican
monks for Catherine
de Medici in 1533.
$125
2. LHomme Prada
The latest from
Prada is a mix of iris
and amber. Plus, the
bottle looks as nice
on top of your dresser
as Miuccia Pradas
shoes do on your feet.
$98
3. Byredo Unnamed
Perfume
To celebrate ten years
in the business,
these Swedes released
a perfume (smells
like pink pepper and
gin) that comes
with a letter transfer
sheet so you can
name it yourself.
$230 for 100 ml.
4. Rgime des
Fleurs Water/Wood
All of RdFs scents
are made by hand in
Los Angeles. This
one, our favorite, has
been said to smell like
an underwater forest.
$165
5. Frdric Malle
Traveling with your
favorite fragrance?
Luxury luggage
brand Valextra has
got you covered with
leather cases made
just for Frdric Malle.
50-ml. case $280
52
HOLIDAY 2016
GQStyle
T H E B I G H O L I D AY W I S H L I S T
no.
6. Land by Land
The N.Y.C. fragrance
atelier produces a
variety of incense and
candles made with
natural ingredients,
including ingenious
one-ounce travel
candles and these sixouncers for home.
FROM LEFT
incense $34
candle $42
7. Norden Goods
Two things we
lovesmell-goods
and ceramicswere
combined for these
hand-poured candles
that come in reusable
stoneware containers.
FROM LEFT
candle $55
hand soap $25
incense $20
8. Astier de Villatte
Its no wonder
that these bottles of
fragrance from a
Parisian ceramics
maker look as
good as whats
inside them smells.
-
FROM LEFT
incense $52
cologne $110
cologne $165
cologne $165
candle $94
9. Incausa
The company sources
Fair Trade artisanal
goods from around
the world, including
incense made using
breu resin and palo
santoa mystical
South American holy
wood used to cleanse
the energy in spaces
from Brazil and Peru.
$18 for nine sticks
T H E B I G H O L I DAY W I S H L I S T
7.
Snow-Melting Boots
Whether youre asking Fashion Santa for a pair
or buying them for yourself, you need boots
thatll get you through the slushy season. The best
ones out there hit right at your ankle and work
everywhere from the woods beside your country house
to the puddle-pocked crosswalks back in town.
Moncler $670
GQStyle
HOLIDAY 2016
Missoni $760
JOSH D I C K I N SO N
ZOH A R L A Z A R
55
no.
T H E B I G H O L I DAY W I S H L I S T
OKeeffe $955
Kiton $1,835
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T H I S PAG E , C LO C K W I S E
FROM TOP LEFT
58
HOLIDAY 2016
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T H E B I G H O L I DAY W I S H L I S T
8.
Desk Toys for
Grown-ups
Ever noticed how all the coolest
stu at all your favorite mens stores
is on the table up by the register?
We have, so we surveyed all the highend knickknacks out there till we
found the best of the best. And
now were presenting them here as
stocking stuers for men of taste
and style. The idea is to surround
yourself with objects that are
inspiring, entertainingand, in
some cases, actually useful.
T H I S PAG E , C LO C K W I S E
FROM TOP LEFT
T H I S PAG E ,
C LO C K W I S E F RO M TO P
miniature
barcelona chair
$384
Vitra Design
Museum
english horn
clothes brush $100
The Butlers Closet
pocketknife $1,815
Chrome Hearts
pocket squares
$60 each Drakes
copper flask $299
Jacob Bromwell
quartz cluster $40
Rock Star Crystals
T H E B I G H O L I DAY W I S H L I S T
no.
T H I S PAG E ,
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT
silver feather
pendant $460
First Arrows
shoehorn $85
The Butlers Closet
silver feather ring
$430 First Arrows
matches $16 for 60
Skeem Design
GQStyle
HOLIDAY 2016
61
9.
Suits That
Never Leave
the House
Every time we go out, we
try to look our bestso why,
at home, do we resort to
souvenir T-shirts and mesh
Phoenix Suns shorts? A
proper pajama set, expressly
made for leisure time, looks as
suave as it feels. You deserve
the upgrade, and so does
whoever youre sleeping with.
PA G E S 3 4 3 9 , 4 2 4 8 , 5 0 5 1 , 5 8 6 1 , 6 4 6 5 , P R O P S T Y L I S T: B R I A N P R I M E A U X A T M A R E K A S S O C I A T E S .
PA G E S 4 0 4 1 , 6 3 , G R O O M I N G : S C O T T M C M A H A N F O R K A T E R YA N I N C . PA G E S 5 5 5 6 , P R O P S T Y L I S T: T R I N A O N G A T H A L L E Y R E S O U R C E S .
T H E B I G H O L I DAY W I S H L I S T
GQStyle
HOLIDAY 2016
BJARNE JONASSON
63
T H E B I G H O L I D AY W I S H L I S T
10.
The Complete Home Bar Cart
The holidays call for a cocktail, and drinking cocktails at home
calls for a cool vintage bar cart. As far as how to trick yours out, heres
the deal: Strike the perfect balance between classic and next wave
with your booze. That means keeping inalienable standards like
Beefeater and Wild Turkey on hand at all times while maintaining
a steady rotation of new spirits like Greenhook Ginsmiths and
W. L. Weller (the bourbon to get when you cant get Pappy Van Winkle).
There are only two essential mixing glasses (a Boston shaker with a
strainer and a Yarai glass with a nice weighted bar spoon) and two
essential bitters (Angostura and Peychauds). And when it comes
to glassware, theres only one name that matters: Baccarat.
Bottles
Tools
CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP LEFT
GQStyle
HOLIDAY 2016
CLOCKWISE FROM
rum $30
Smith & Cross
bourbon
Wild Turkey 101 $25
W. L. Weller
12 Year $25
Glassware
CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP LEFT
scotch $260
The Macallan 18
boston-style
shaker $125
Alessi
tequila $45
Patrn Silver
bitters
Peychauds $6
Angostura $8
champagne
coupe $180
Baccarat
JOSS McKINLEY
TOP LEFT
antique
mechanical
jigger $375
Sir Jacks
bowl $330
Christofle
bar spoon $23
and fine strainer $7
Cocktail Kingdom
coaster set $175
Ralph Lauren
ice bucket $1,100
and tongs $355
Christofle
Bar Cart
circa-1950
antique $2,950
Area iD via
1stdibs.com
65
L ABELS ON FIRE
66
ACNE
ST U D I O S
GQStyle
HOLIDAY 2016
67
L ABELS ON FIRE
MISSONI
A Royal Family of
Italian Fashion
Seizes Its Moment
68
HOLIDAY 2016
GQStyle
THE NBA
TAKE IT
FROM A
MENSWEAR
PRO
Theres no shortage of
wearable hoops memorabilia
out there, but not much
of it is designed for fans who
care whether their Warriors
tees are cashmereand
hand-tie-dyed in Los Angeles.
So Greg Chait, founder of
Cali-based luxury-cashmeregoods purveyor The Elder
Statesman, dreamed up
this collection of team merch
made in partnership with
the NBA. Expect drops of
new gear throughout the
seasonand to see Jay, Bey,
Drake, and other courtside
types buying in early. N . J .
Innovation is in
Missonis DNA: Ottavio
and Rosita developed
their signature zigzag
pattern by adapting
a machine traditionally
used for shawls
and then adding their
own wild colors.
69
L ABELS ON FIRE
ACNE STUDIOS
The High-Fashion
Brand of
the Future
after nearly 20 years of making the official jeans
of global cool kids, this boundary-pushing swedish
brand is evolving along with its obsessive fan base.
Time to refile acne as a major player in high fashion.
70
HOLIDAY 2016
GQStyle
INSIDE
THE MIND
OF ACNE
STUDIOS
CREATIVE
DIRECTOR
JONNY
JOHANSSON
'R\RXIHHOWKDW\RXU
FROOHFWLRQVKDYHEHFRPHPRUH
SHUVRQDOZLWKHDFKVHDVRQ"
Im really
into the word honest in fashion.
Im trying to stay contemporary,
you know, and also personal at the
same time. I find that sometimes
fashion becomes about exoticism.
I think everyday life is more
interesting, in a way.
Johansson booked
two fellow surfers,
board shaper Robin
Kegel (to model) and
David Sims (to shoot
photos), for Acnes
spring 16 campaign.
3RSFXOWXUHDQGIDVKLRQDUH
VRFRQQHFWHGQRZ'RHVWKDW
LQWHUHVW\RX"
Theres always this need for
companies to promote themselves
via celebrities, but I think its a
double-edged sword. I like Drake,
for instance. I think hes an amazing
71
LABELS ON FIRE
NOAH
New Yorks
Underground
Street King
CLOTHES THIS CHILL ARENT SO EASY TO MAKE
72
The ribbed cashmere sweater is milled and knit in Scotland at one of the worlds premier
knitting mills. Theyre dealing with the best luxury brands in the world, says Babenzien.
Then we come along, and for whatever reason, theyve been very open to working with us
and very excited to see us do something a little dierent with their things.
HOLIDAY 2016
GQStyle
PLEASE TAKE
OUR MONEY NOW
N OA H S N O L I TA
C LU B H O U S E
When it opened in
2015, the Noah store in
Manhattans Nolita
neighborhood quickly
became a go-to hangout
spot for the citys styleminded dudes. Weve
done our best to make
this a home away from
home, in the same way
that a family that owns a
pizzeria spends their
whole lives there. The
store stocks items from a
select few other brands,
including Paraboot shoes,
sunglasses from Vuarnet
and Etnia Barcelona, and
Smathers & Branson belts.
DRAKES
THROWBACK
PRINT
SCARVES
We make things the oldfashioned way, says
Michael Hill, creative director
of Drakes, not just for
the sake of the story, but
because it makes the
products more beautiful.
Case in point: this seasons
exotic-animal prints,
Egyptian motifs, and archival
patterns on the finest wool
and silk fabrics out there.
Drakes started in 1977, but
these are easily the flyest
neck warmers of 2017. S . H .
73
B U Y I N G F O R VA L U E
74
ANDREW B. MYERS
HOLIDAY 2016
C LO C K W I S E F R O M TO P L E F T
GQStyle
P R O P S T Y L I S T: G R A C E H A R T N E T T. I L L U S T R A T I O N : L A U R E N T A M A K I .
JONATHAN SNYDER
THE LITTLE
SHOP OF
WONDERS
T E M P L E S O F A D VA N C E D S T Y L E
GQStyle
HOLIDAY 2016
T E M P L E S O F A D VA N C E D S T Y L E
+RZGLG\RXILUVWGLVFRYHU57+"
About six years ago, I was walking down
the street in L.A. and I saw this small little shop. I was attracted
to it; it was the pots, I guess. When I went in, I felt like I was in
heaven. It smelled gloriousthe incense. The color palette at
the time was tan, navy, and red. Everything looked so dreamy.
,WWDNHVDERXWPLQXWHVWRDFFOLPDWHWRWKHVKRS8QWLO\RX
WDNHLWDOOLQLWVKDUGWRIRFXVRQDQ\RQHWKLQJ
Before Ren got the second shop, it was just the one. The first
shop is so small. You walk around it one or two timesthen
you just want to do it again. You want to stay in that world, you
want to see whats at the back door. You want to know Ren.
+RZGLG\RXWZRFRQQHFW"
We just kind of fell in love! We exchanged numbers and started
to text each other: photos of stuff wed seen, beautiful things
we love. A cloud, a sky, something blue, something beautiful.
We have so much in common. We both feel connected to
nature, and yet we also try to face society. We both gravitate
toward the aesthetics of tribe-based societies.
:KDWLVLWDERXWWULEHV"
I dont know how to describe itI just feel very close to
tribe-based cultures, the indigenous people of the land
that we walk on. Before colonization, before industrialization,
there was this beautiful art conceived just from our minds.
Shoes, jewelry, clothes, the way we wore our hair. The dance,
the aroma, the food. When I see Rens art, thats what I see.
Its a mixture of Asian and Native American and Mexican and
South Americanso many different things. And its combined
with comfort. The clothes are very, very comfortable.
<RXDQG5HQERWKORYHWREUHDNWKHWUDGLWLRQDO$PHULFDQ
VLOKRXHWWH:K\LVWKDW"
I dont know. Ive been called a nonconformist, Ive been
called avant-garde. I dont think it stops with my clothing. Its
the way I sing, the way I write, the way I tweet, the way I talk,
the way I dance, the way I move. I dont know where it comes
from, but what Im attracted to aesthetically is what Im
trying to communicate. Theres so much in my brain, I dont
even know how Im going to get it all out. But when I met
Ren, I felt a very kindred kinship. A friend, a brother, a twin,
you know. Hes ancient-futuristic.
78
HOLIDAY 2016
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'R\RXWKLQNREMHFWVOLNHWKHRQHV5HQFROOHFWVLQ
WKHVKRSKDYHHQHUJ\"
I dont know, but I feel them. When someone gives me a
gift, I feel the energy and the love and the intent of the thing.
And photos of peoplewhen I put them up in my house,
Im reminded daily of that persons energy and love, their
encouragement. When I take the photos down, its a little
weirdI dont hear from that person for a while. So I know
which ones I need to take down. [laughs] Everything that
fans give me, I keep. My partner calls me a hoarder. Ive
made altars of the jewelry, and the paintings line the floors
to the ceilings in my home. It means a lot that theyd do
thatits really their heart. Same thing with clothes. Everything
I wear means something.
6RGR\RXJHWDWWDFKHGWREHDXWLIXOWKLQJV"
When I lose something, I just feel like: Its supposed to
belong to somebody else now.
,WVHHPVOLNHWKHSHRSOHZLWKWKHEHVWWDVWHDOOWKHJUHDW
FROOHFWRUVZKRDUHOLNHPDJQHWVIRUVWUDQJHZRQGHUIXO
LQWHUHVWLQJREMHFWVDUHDOVRWKHPRVWZLOOLQJWROHWVWXIIJR
79
FAS H I ON SC H OO L
When the right designer puts the Zeitgeist in a choke hold with an
inspired collection, 12 minutes of loud music, bright lights, and runway
catwalking can send the culture careening in wild new directions.
Here, we break down 16 fashion shows that changed the way we dress.
by Noah Johnson
THE MOST
INFLUENTIAL
RUNWAY
SHOWS OF
ALL TIME
PRADA
Fall-Winter 2012
80
HOLIDAY 2016
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GQStyle
DIOR HOMME
Spring-Summer 2002
Before he stormed
the gates at Yves Saint
Laurent, Hedi Slimane
made his mark with
an influential stint as
the creative head of
Dior Homme from
2000 to 2007. Among
his contributions to
the menswear canon:
skinny jeans, skinny
ties, and skinny
models, many cast
from the street by
Slimane himself.
Perhaps his most
indelible legacy from
those years is the
skinny black suit, with
high armholes, narrow
sleeves, and lowrise trousers, that
became the uniform
for rockers (both
real and imagined)
throughout the aughts.
There came
this new
line from Hedi
Slimane at
Dior that you
needed to be
slim to wear.
It said: You
want this?
Go back to
your bones.
And so I lost
it all. I lost
88 pounds
and never got
them back.
KARL
L AGERFELD,
2010
82
HOLIDAY 2016
GQStyle
FAS H I ON SC H OO L
R I C K O W E N S | Fall-Winter 2006
Few designers can match Owenss uncanny knack for jaw-dropping runway
high jinks. (His recent collections included penis-exposing tunics and
models backpack-strapped to other models in the 69 position.) Ten years
ago, at Pitti Uomo, he installed a wax statue that depicted him urinating
on the floor. But even that wasnt enough to eclipse the sports-inspired
clothes, which were so far ahead of their time they are still influencing
collections a decade later. The truly groundbreaking moment came with
the introduction of his iconic high-top Geobasket sneakers, the first-ever
high-fashion basketball shoes (there have been about, oh, a thousand trillion
variations since), that came to be known, simply, as the Rick Dunks.
I wanted
monster trucks
on my feet.
S T Y L I S T: J O C E LY N E B E A U D O I N . T H E S E PA G E S : S E E A D D I T I O N A L C R E D I T S .
RICK OWENS
H E N RY L E U T W Y L E R
FAS H I ON SC H OO L
S T E P H E N S P R O U S E | Fall 1984
84
of a NASA shuttle
launching into
spacethe perfect
metaphor for
Sprouses trajectory.
In 2001, fellow
punk-influenced
designer Marc
Jacobs would
collaborate with
Sprouse on graffitiprint bags for
Louis Vuitton (and
siphon off untold
sums of cash from
fanboy Kanye West
as a result).
HOLIDAY 2016
H E L M U T L A N G | Autumn-Winter 1998
J E A N PA U L G A U L T I E R
Spring-Summer 1990
85
FAS H I ON SC H OO L
I sought comfortable
clothes that gave ease
to movement, comfort,
and nonchalance.
GIORGIO ARMANI
GIORGIO ARMANI
Fall 1990
As early as the
mid-1970s, Giorgio
Armani was gutting
jackets of the lining
and padding that
give them their
structure, redefining
Italian tailoring
along the way.
Around me, I only
saw men who wore
rigid jackets that
concealed the body,
imprisoning it, in
a sense, Armani tells
us today. I sought
the exact opposite:
comfortable clothes
that gave ease to
movement, comfort,
and nonchalance.
Gradually, I also
changed the layout
of the buttons
and changed its
proportions: It was a
process that radically
transformed this
garment. Since then,
my jackets have
been comfortable,
lightweight, and
even sensual in their
construction. His
fall 1990 collection
was the ultimate
expression of his
mission, one that
still resonates today.
The excessive
volume of the 90s
now seems outdated,
Armani says, but
the insistence on
softness is still seen.
86
HOLIDAY 2016
J U N Y A WA T A N A B E
Spring-Summer 2006
GQStyle
THOM BROWNE
Fall-Winter 2009
D R I E S VA N N O T E N
Spring-Summer 1996
RAF SIMONS
Spring-Summer 1998
Spring-Summer 1999
Fall-Winter 2001
Of his many
contributions to
fashion, Rafs
first few collections,
particularly springsummer 98 (Black
Palms), springsummer 99 (Kinetic
Youth), and fall-winter
01 (Riot Riot Riot),
remain touchstones
for their mastery of
proportion, graphic
imagery, and bristling
energythe kind
Rihanna, Travis Scott,
and Kanye West
channel when they
wear archival pieces
from those collections
today. Simons also
stays far ahead
of the curve with his
locations: Kinetic
Youth was held in front
of an enormous mirror
ball in La Villettes
Cit des Sciences et
de lIndustrie.
88
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GQStyle
FAS H I ON SC H OO L
COVER STORY
We always knew Kendrick Lamar
could rap. But nobody expected his
album to pimp a butterfly to be a
staggering musical masterwork that
galvanized Grammy voters and protest
marchers alike. The big question
now is: what will k.dot do next?
We got Rick Rubin to ask him.
TOP 5
DEAD
OR
ALIVE
PAOL A
KUDACKI
91
92
T H I S PAG E
O P E N I N G PAG E S
coat $8,150
Berluti
+
cardigan $2,930
(for similar style)
Berluti
shirt $310
AMI Alexandre
Mattiussi
HOLIDAY 2016
GQStyle
93
coat $2,295
Burberry
+
denim jacket $840
Tom Ford
silk shirt (right) $550
and loafers $640
Salvatore
Ferragamo
his own jeans Levis
ring David Yurman
96
coat $4,950
Gucci
98
HOLIDAY 2016
GQStyle
coat $11,500
(made-to-order)
Dolce & Gabbana
styled by mobolaji dawodu.
hair by whitney alford.
grooming by hee soo kwon
for malin+goetz. set design
by ward robinson for
wooden ladder. produced
by portfolio one.
architecturally significant homes arent just for coee-table books. Theyre meant
to be lived in. By you. Even if just for a few inspiring nights. Here are six design escapes
that will stimulate your mind and change the way you vacation. by Brad Dunning
A DESIGN SHRINE
101
102
HOLIDAY 2016
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T H E S E PA G E S : S E E A D D I T I O N A L C R E D I T S .
CAPE COD
FOR MODERN
LOVERS
104
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105
TIME-TRAVEL TO
70s CALIFORNIA AT
ITS MOST DRAMATIC
No place on earth finds itself more squarely
in the crosshairs of our cultural Zeitgeist
than Sea Ranch on Californias SonomaMendocino Coast. The Golden State seems
to be having more influence in popular
culture than ever before, and ditto for the
1970s. Sea Ranch epitomizes both.
This planned community, with a hotel,
condos, and freestanding homes, was started
in the mid-1960s, but for me the Sea Ranch
lookweathered wood-plank exteriors, angular
profiles, cane-seat Breuer chairs, chromeframed Equus posters, and Sheila Hicks textile
wall hangingsis decidedly rooted in the
70s. Sea Ranch is post-hippie, academically
approved, moneyed-up, groovy NorCal style.
And the big extra ingredient is that Sea
Ranch is located, duh, right on the rugged
Pacific coastline, all windswept and lonely,
dramatic and Rod McKuenly lovely. Almost
every house has an enviable view, and most
have the requisite period-perfect hot tub.
Squint and Steve McQueen and Ali MacGraw
are tearing up the beach in an orange dune
buggy and their Persols.
Its about 100 miles north of San Francisco,
with famed vineyards and breweries nearby.
Bring your own cable-knit turtleneck.
(From under $200 a night)
106
GQStyle
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107
GQStyle
WORSHIP AT
THE ALTAR OF
LE CORBUSIER
Gaze at any modern
building and youll
see breadcrumbs
leading back to
Le Corbusiers desk.
His continuing
oracular authority
verges on the
sacred, so why
not stay in a
Corbusier-designed
convent? Rooms
at the Convent at
La Tourette (Lyon,
France) are small
and monastic, but
the structure remains
a masterpiece
of inspiration,
introspection, and
rejuvenation. Its
your chance to
get closer to God
and Le Corbusier.
Or are they one
and the same?
Alternatively,
you can stay in
Htel Le Corbusier
(Marseille, France),
arguably Le
Corbusiers most
famous creation.
Its part of La Cit
Radieuse (The
Radiant City),
which was to be
the prototype for
a new wave of
postwar housing
a nine-story
building (pictured
at right and top
left), with one floor
of shops and a
rooftop garden, that
is one of the most
famous and most
photographed
modern architectural
spaces in the world.
Cradle yourself
in a monument; its
an erection of the
senses. (Convent
at La Tourette, from
$57 a night; Htel
Le Corbusier,
from $89 a night)
110
GQStyle
HOLIDAY 2016
111
LOOK BOOK
B U B
B L I
Up
N G
Thankfully, the coolest coats of the season are also the warmest: bubble coats.
Thats because designers have transformed them from giant arctic sleeping bags to
oversize statements of style. To prove it, we took model rose bertram and her soccerstar boyfriend, gregory van der wiel, to a peak above zermatt, switzerland.
112
HOLIDAY 2016
GQStyle
Introducing
the Peak-Lapel
Bubble Topcoat
coat $1,095 Z Zegna
+
pants
Brunello Cucinelli
boots Rag & Bone
beanie Michael Kors
A Coat That
Will Elevate
Your Commute
coat $1,260 Herno
+
shirt Missoni
leggings
Calvin Klein
Collection
boots Dsquared2
beanie
Brunello Cucinelli
ON HER
O P E N I N G PAG E S
coat $2,395
Maison Margiela
+
tank top
Calvin Klein
Underwear
leggings
Calvin Klein
Collection
beanie Michael Kors
sunglasses Ray-Ban
his necklaces
Miansai (top)
Renvi
ON HER
coat (mens)
Dsquared2
bathing suit
Stella McCartney
boots Rag & Bone
socks throughout
Brunello Cucinelli
sunglasses Dior
115
Guaranteed
Collectors Item:
The Raf Simons
Bubble Coat
ON HER
pants
Brunello
Cucinelli
beanie
The Elder
Statesman
sunglasses
Ray-Ban
necklaces,
from top
Miansai
Renvi
117
ROSE BERTRAM
@rose_bertram
@gregoryvanderwiel
This Ones a
Bubble Coat
Bomber Jacket
Hybrid
coat $3,995
Ralph Lauren
+
pants and boots
Ralph Lauren
beanie
The Elder Statesman
sunglasses
(opposite page)
Bottega Veneta
119
Add a Fur
Hood for More
Warmthand
Baller Bonus
Points
coat $6,745
Brunello Cucinelli
+
cardigan
Brunello Cucinelli
If Your Girl
Wants to Steal
Your Cool New
Bubble Coat
Let Her
coat (mens) $6,295
Bally
+
bathing suit Etro
boots
Brunello Cucinelli
beanie
Moncler Grenoble
121
bodysuit
Off-White c/o
Virgil Abloh
boots
Stella McCartney
styled by mobolaji
dawodu. hair and makeup
by susana sanchez for
balmain hair couture and
dior makeup. produced
by kiku xicoira for bcn
skies productions.
122
PARADISE
AT 12,000 FEET
Our location for this
shoot? The peak at
Matterhorn Glacier
Paradise, a breathtaking
mountaintop located
a few steep gondola rides
above the postcardperfect town of Zermatt,
Switzerland. Down in
Zermatt, there are no
gas engines allowed,
which keeps the smog
down and the views
crystal clear. Up top,
you feel like you can
reach out and touch the
dizzying Matterhorn,
just one peak over. And
best of all, theres
skiing all year around
here. (Believe it or
not, we took these
photographs in August.)
123
Louis Vuitton
Zigzag Scarf
This oversize scarf by
designer Kim Jones
will be identifiable as
Louis Vuitton only to
people who really know.
To everyone else, its
just the biggest, coolest,
warmest, and most
impressive statement
scarf money can buy.
$2,860
FASHION
Its not about labels and
logos. These 11 designer
pieces have the right
mix of hype, cred, and
design to make them
proud staples of your
wardrobeand to make
people think Damn!
when you walk into a
room. And since tearing
into the packaging is
half the fun, we threw in
the boxes and bags as well.
ARNAUD PY VKA
125
Brunello Cucinelli
Topcoat
The winter piece youll
get the most wear out
of (your topcoat). Designed
by one of Italys finest
and noblest suitmakers
(Mr. Cucinelli). Made
with the worlds most
luxurious winter-tailoring
fabric (cashmere).
$4,745
126
Missoni Knit
Sweater
The genius of Missonis
kaleidoscopic knit
sweaters is that they dont
need a logobecause
no other brand on earth
has the means to make
them. Let your drunk
uncle wear the Rudolph
the Red-Nosed Reindeer
sweater. You wear this.
$1,275
Bottega Veneta
Crepe-Soled
Chelsea Boots in
Barolo Suede
Crepe-soled Chelseas
have been in heavy
rotation among stylish
dudes for a few seasons
now. Bottega makes
the Platonic version, and
this unique shade of
suede will keep you from
getting confused with
the guys in knockos.
$820
128
Cartier Love
Bracelet
Every time we see a
celebrity with actually
dope styleor any
other man of wealth
and tasteguess which
bracelet hes wearing.
Note that it comes with
the screwdriver you
need to put it on and take
it o. (When we get ours,
were never taking it o.)
Rick Owens
Calfskin Jacket
When Rick Owens started
making leather jackets
in the 90s, they quickly
became essential to
the fashion-obsessed. And
soon a cult developed
around the guy, one to rival
any rock stars following.
Try this jacket on once and
youll either buy it on the
spot or start saving up for it.
$2,343
131
Gucci Horsebit
Loafers
Frankly, horsebits have
always been a status
symbol. Whats new here
is the slightly pointier,
more elegant and fashiony
silhouette that Guccis
white-hot designer,
Alessandro Michele, gave
to his houses most
iconic piece of menswear.
(While he was at it,
he made the packaging
more glorious, too.)
$695
$4,990
132
$5,995
134
Vetements Sexual
Fantasies Hoodie
There are rare occasions
when hype is deserved
and resistance is futile.
Maybe it was the frenzy
over designer Demna
Gvasalias high-concept
streetwear. Maybe it
was seeing Frank Ocean
wearing it. Either
way, our desire to own
this hoodie is as raw
and direct as the words
printed across the front.
135
JAZZ GIANTS
Using nothing more than simple instruments and an audacious
will to improvise, these ten giants of jazz have taken us
places no man has gone before. And theyre still here, still playing
and always dressed to kill. What a time to be alive.
The
Explorers
Club
by
Nick Marino
CHRISTIAN WEBER
136
HOLIDAY 2016
GQStyle
Ron Carter
AGE :
79
LIFE ON A STRING:
A graduate of the
Miles Davis Sideman
University, Carter
still tours and gigs
around the world,
leading his bands on
the same upright
bass hes been using
since 1960. Its on
all these records, he
says. I maintain it. Its
like having a Bentley.
THAT HERRINGBONE SUIT:
It was designed by
his wife, the former
model Quintell
Williams-Carter.
suit (both pages),
his own
+
shirt $345
Ermenegildo Zegna
hat $275
JJ Hat Center
scarf Kiton
pocket square
Polo Ralph Lauren
shoes, his own
Fratelli Rossetti
Pharoah
Sanders
AGE :
76
M U S I CA L L A N E :
A freethinking astral
traveler and spiritual
gangster, hes the
ocial saxophonist of
your souls awakening.
His definitive song
may be The Creator
Has a Master Plan, a
32-minute vision quest
that journeys from
moments of pastoral
beauty to demonpurging squalljust
like life itself.
THE LOOK: I got tired of
wearing suits and ties,
he says. I decided
I would look another
kind of way.
coat $2,490
Ermenegildo
Zegna Couture
+
sweater $345
Sandro
sunglasses Krewe
fez from Nigeria
138
I WOULDNT GO
TO WORK WITHOUT
A SUIT. IT SETS THE
WHOLE TONE FOR ME.
Ron Carter
140
Charles Lloyd
AGE :
78
Between
1989 and 2015, Lloyd
recorded his beautiful
and painterly playing
for art-music label
ECM. But hell always
be best known as one of
the first jazz artists
to sell a million copies,
with the 1967 live set
Forest Flower.
HIS SOUND:
M O D E L I N G S I D E H U ST L E :
Wayne
Shorter
AGE : 83
The sax he
played in his mid1960s prime was
as elegant and cutting
as a samurai sword.
The work included a
torrent of solo material
(Shorter recorded
at least six albums
between 1964 and 65)
and a coveted position
in Miles Daviss blockrocking second great
quintet (with his buddy
Herbie on piano).
O N S I G H T: Miles used
to say, I can tell
whether somebody
can play or not by
what they wear and
how they move in it.
shirt and pants,
vintage
+
necklace
Loree Rodkin
LEG ACY:
Herbie
Hancock
AG E :
76
GREATEST HITS:
143
Chick Corea
AG E :
75
Nominated for a
staggering 64
Grammys, Corea has
embraced the
possibilities of both
acoustic and electric
piano, dabbled in
childrens and Latin
and classical music,
and even recorded a
Christmas song with
John Travolta and
Olivia Newton-John.
FIT TER, HAPPIER:
144
Roy Ayers
AGE :
76
Credit Ayers
with putting the vibes
in vibraphone. Mashing
together jazz, funk,
and disco boogie, hes
the master of 1970sbachelor-pad grooviness
that holds its edge.
M R . S M O OT H :
CA R E E R H I G H L I G H T:
146
IM JUST
A TRAVELING
MUSICIAN
ENJOYING THE
GOOD ROAD.
Roy Ayers
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HOLIDAY 2016
GQStyle
McCoy
Tyner
AGE :
77
LEGACY:
A heartbreaking
balladeer who
defines sophistication
on the piano, he
also spent years as
a sideman to the
adventurous John
Coltrane, playing
on My Favorite
Things and Tranes
transcendent
masterpiece,
A Love Supreme.
suit $6,395
sweater $595
Ermenegildo Zegna
+
watch Chopard
ring and link bracelet
John Hardy
cuff bracelet
Le Gramme
NE X T PAGE
sunglasses
Dita Eyewear
socks Pantherella
loafers, vintage
150
Cecil Taylor
AGE :
87
P L AY I N G ST Y L E :
Taylor approaches
the piano the way
Jackson Pollock
approached a canvas:
with a wild sense
of improvisational
abandon that
borders on violence.
MUSIC (AND FASHION)
Never mind
that hes pushing
90. When Taylor
performed this year
at the Whitney
Museum, he wore
a chocolate beanie,
ivory shoes, and a
satin jacket printed
with swirls of regal
purple and gold.
suit jacket $1,198
vest $598
pants $398
John Varvatos
+
shirt $195
PS by Paul Smith
AS ART:
bracelet and
glasses, vintage
152
Roy Haynes
AG E :
91
PL AYED WITH:
154
WINTER MUSIC
SPEAKER
MELTERS
Ten Crucial LPs from the Giants
in These Pages (and One from the
Greatest Bandleader of All)
by Hank Shteamer
C E C I L T A Y L OR
156
HOLIDAY 2016
GQStyle
CH A R L E S L LOY D
ROY H AY N E S
P H A ROA H S A N D E R S
Karma, 1969
The pinnacle of the dashiki era in jazz, and the blueprint for new-school
revivalists like Kamasi Washington, Karma is a heady blend of soothing
and searing sounds. It seems somehow designed not to be heard
so much as felt. On the half-hour album centerpiece The Creator Has
a Master Plan, Sanders juxtaposes New Age atmosphericsthink
flutes, shakers, and gospel-ish lead vocals from the yodel-prone Leon
Thomaswith volcanic climaxes that hark back to his time spent
scandalizing the squares as a member of John Coltranes legendarily
gritty late-period bands. Karma is where jazz went full Woodstock.
HERBIE
H A N COCK
I was tired of
everything being
heavy, Herbie
Hancock once
explained of Head
Hunters. He may
have lifted the mood
on this milestone,
but the albums
fierce grooves are
anything but soft.
From the buttmoving synth strut
of Chameleon
to the remake of
Hancocks early-60s
track Watermelon
Man (featuring
an unforgettable
whistle-like hook that
percussionist Bill
Summers achieved
by blowing into a
beer bottle), the
platinum smash made
jazz as danceable
as mainstream funk.
158
HOLIDAY 2016
GQStyle
WAY N E S HO R T E R
T H E S E PA G E S : S E E A D D I T I O N A L C R E D I T S .
MCCOY T Y N E R
159
M I L E S DAV I S
C H I CK COR E A
Now He Sings,
Now He Sobs, 1968
NOTHING IN COREAS
PRIOR WORK COULDVE
PREPPED LISTENERS
FOR THIS WIDER ANGING MONSTER.
ROY AYERS
R O N CA R T E R
Where?, 1961
PLUS: Alone Together
with Jim Hall, 1973
The Low End Theory
with A Tribe Called Quest, 1991
Ready to
start listening?
In collaboration with our friends at
Amoeba Music, weve bundled
an exclusive set of LPs representing
every artist in our Jazz Giants
portfolio. Its 11 albums in total, all on
high-fidelity vinyl, and available at
amoeba.com/gqstyle. At checkout,
enter the code GQSTYLE15
to receive 15 percent off the
retail price of $305.78.
GQStyle
HOLIDAY 2016
161
162
AL AN GWIZDOWSKI
HOLIDAY 2016
GQStyle
Additional Credits
Page 20. Clockwise from top left:
Stuart Tyson; Joss McKinley (2);
Josh Dickinson; Bjarne Jonasson;
Joss McKinley; Josh Dickinson;
Joss McKinley (2); Ian Dickson/
Redferns/Getty Images
Page 30. Clockwise from top:
courtesy of Patrizia Montanari
and RTH Shop; Alan Gwizdowski;
courtesy of Paola Kudacki;
courtesy of Adolfo Doring
Page 49. Tods and PS by Paul
Smith: Stuart Tyson/prop stylist:
Jill Edwards at Halley Resources.
All other photographs: Josh
Dickinson/prop stylist: Trina Ong
at Halley Resources.
Page 52. LHomme Prada and
Rgime des Fleurs Water/Wood:
Stuart Tyson/prop stylist:
Jill Edwards at Halley Resources.
All other photographs: Josh
Dickinson/prop stylist: Trina Ong
at Halley Resources.
Page 62. Ian Dickson/Redferns/
Getty Images
Pages 6667. From left: courtesy
of NOAH; Chris Barham/ANL/
REX/Shutterstock; courtesy of
Acne Studios
Page 68. From left: Adriano
Alecchi/Mondadori Portfolio/
Getty Images; Sergio del
Grande/Mondadori Portfolio/
Getty Images
Page 69. Top and bottom:
courtesy of Missoni (5).
Right: courtesy of The Elder
Statesman (3).
Page 70. Clockwise from top
left: courtesy of Acne Studios (4)
Page 71. Clockwise from top left:
courtesy of Acne Studios; Jorge
Monedero/Camera Press/Redux;
courtesy of Acne Studios (2)
Page 72. Courtesy of NOAH (3)
Page 73. Top and bottom:
courtesy of NOAH (3). Right:
courtesy of Drakes (3).
Pages 8081. Courtesy of
Prada (3)
Page 82. Clockwise from top:
Bertrand Rindoff Petroff/Getty
Images; Maria Valentino/MCV
Photo; Pascal Rossignol/Reuters
Page 83. Top: courtesy of
Owenscorp (3)
Page 84. Left: Roxanne Lowit
Page 85. Top: courtesy of hl-art.
Bottom: courtesy of Jean Paul
Gaultier (3).
Page 86. Clockwise from top
left: courtesy of Armani;
firstVIEW (2)
Page 87. Bottom: firstVIEW (3)
Page 88. Clockwise from top
right: courtesy of Dries Van
Noten (3); Maria Valentino/MCV
Photo; courtesy of Raf Simons (2)
163