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HOLIDAY 2 016

THE BIG
HOLIDAY
WISH LIST
The Most
Influential
Menswear
Shows of
All Time

The New
Status
Symbols
THE LIVING
LEGENDS
OF JAZZ

Dressed to the
Nines & Still
Making Noise

KING
KENDRICK
LAMAR
Rick Rubin
Interviews
Raps
Fearless
Genius

32
Pages of Fashion,
Watches, Scents,
And Ceramics

SIX EPIC
DESIGN
ESCAPES

TA B L E O F C O N T E N T S

VO LU M E 1

ISSUE 3

GQ STYLE Holiday 2016


PAO L A KUDACKI

THE BIG
HOLIDAY
WISH LIST
142 Dynamite
Gift Ideas for
Your Home,
Office & Closet

coat $2,995
Michael Kors
sweater $1,135
The Elder
Statesman
P .48

P .42

P .34

P .62

P .64

P .54

P .36

P .58

P .40

SEE ADDITIONAL CREDITS.

P .50

20

TA B L E O F C O N T E N T S

VO LU M E 1

QUICK READS

F E AT U R E S

JA ZZ GIANTS

66 5 Labels on Fire
Missoni, Acne Studios,
Noah, and more

90 Kendrick Lamar
in conversation
with rick rubin

74 Buying for Value:


Travel Tech
by michael williams

100 Spend the Night


in a Design Shrine
by brad dunning

136 The Explorers Club


A jazz portfolio starring
Herbie Hancock, Wayne
Shorter, Pharoah Sanders,
Roy Ayers, and more
photographed by
christian weber

76 The Little Shop of Wonders


a q&a with erykah badu

112 Bubble Coats


An alpine look book
featuring Rose Bertram
and Gregory van der Wiel

80 The Most Influential


Runway Shows of All Time
by noah johnson

22

156 Speaker Melters:


11 Crucial Jazz LPs
by hank shteamer

ISSUE 3

For Kendrick Lamar,


every beat is an
opportunity for intense
and relentless selfreflection. So who better
to plumb his musical
mind than the great
Rick Rubin? Read their
interview on page 90.

jacket $3,840
Prada

124 The New Status Symbols


photographed by
arnaud pyvka

HOLIDAY 2016

GQStyle

LET TER FROM THE EDITOR


3

This August, I found myself standing in snow


in the Swiss Alps, waiting for a helicopter.
A glacier was our photo set for the day, and
soon I heard the thwack thwack of distant blades.
Seconds later, a chopper touched down, and
the model Rose Bertram and her soccer-star
boyfriend, Gregory van der Wiel, hopped out.
It was a sci-fi arrival, and, to me, Rose
and Greg represent the couple of the future.
Each is singularly beautiful, enviably talented,
effortlessly cosmopolitan, and unceasingly
digital. The previous night, Greg had played a
match in Istanbul, so the couple had chartered
a jet, then jumped in the helicopter. What a life.
At one point during our shoot, Rose kissed
the King Tut tattoo on Gregs throat. Thats
how I cheat on him, she said, giggling, and
gave the pharaoh another smooch.
Man, sometimes I feel like the pharaohs
are following me. I went to Egypt last year on
vacation, and what I remember most vividly
is standing with my wife between the paws of
the Sphinx at sunrise. The most powerful thing
about Egypt is the mysteryhow little we
know about the sites. Who built them, and why.
Yet there they stand, like theyve got nothing
to hide. Its nuts! All that not-knowing freaked
me out at first, but soon my fear turned into
acceptancethen joy. It reminded me that the
world is infinite, and my understanding of it
is as small as a grain of sand in the vast desert.
Since that trip, Ive been trying to embrace
the unknown, and in some ways, this issue is a
tribute to people whove done that beautifully.

24

Pharoah Sanders, who kicks off


our big jazz portfolio, isnt Egyptian,
yet his 32-minute odyssey, The
Creator Has a Master Plan, captures
how I felt in Giza. Faced with a
complex universe, Pharoah takes
up his sax and goes exploring.
For me, the closest thing to the
truth is the sound of Pharoah using
his horn to go looking for it. His
playing is an act of faith.
The same can be said about
Kendrick Lamars music. Kendricks
genius, beyond his astounding
technical proficiency, is his love of
complexity and contradiction.
The long American election cycle

and the culture wars surrounding


it have made it clear that we are
addicted to dualities: good-bad,
right-wrong, black-white. We
take sides, and dig in. Kendrick,
however, is addicted to ruthless
self-examination. Im the biggest
hypocrite of 2015, he once rapped.
That cant be true, but I think the
world would be a better place if
we all looked at ourselves and at
least considered the possibility. At
the end of Kendricks masterpiece,
To Pimp a Butterfly, theres a
song called Mortal Man. In my
opinion, he says, only hope that
we have left is music and vibrations.
That feels right to me.
This is the holiday issue of
GQ Style, but before we gather
our families, well hit the voting
booths to cast our lots in the
big battle over the Truth. I think
its a perfect opportunity to
acknowledge that we cant know
the Truthand to re-dedicate
ourselves to searching like hell
for it anyway. In other words,
its time for humility and action.
Then we celebrate.

1.
We met up with Rose
Bertram and Greg van
der Wiel in the Alps.
I like to call them the
couple of the future.
2.
Pharoah Sanderss
1969 LP Karma. My
favorite jazz album
of all time (right now, at
least). Having Pharoah
in our jazz portfolio
makes my soul soar. So
does his music.
3.
Ive spent 19 months
listening to Kendrick
Lamars To Pimp
a Butterfly, and Im
still uncovering new
layers of meaning
and lightning bolts of
genius with every listen.
4.
Me on location in
the mountains above
Zermatt, Switzerland.

Will Welch
editor-in-chief
HOLIDAY 2016

GQStyle

C L O C K W I S E F R O M B O T T O M : D A R I A K O B AYA S H I R I T C H ( 2 ) ;
C O U R T E S Y O F I M P U L S E ! R E C O R D S ; PA O L A K U D A C K I . T O P R I G H T, N E C K L A C E : M A R T I N E A L I .

The Girl Who


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M A G A Z

CONTRIBUTORS
Erykah Badu with
her mother, sister,
and daughtersall
wearing clothes from
one of the best-kept
secrets in American
style: the L. A. shop
called RTH.

Erykah Badu
INTERVIEWEE

The Little Shop of Wonders, p.76


Hey, Erykah, how do you
know when a holiday gift is
a good one?
Objects are just an extension
of the person who gives them.
Its not the gift I feel close to,
its the giver.

Christian Weber

Paola Kudacki

PHOTOGRAPHER

PHOTOGRAPHER

Jazz Giants, p.136

Kendrick Lamar, p.90

Hey, Christian, whats your favorite music


to listen to during the holidays?
Id have to say Elvis. My folks would play his
Christmas album. In fact, all year was Elvis, Elvis,
Elvis. Theyd wake us up at 6:30 on Saturday by
playing Aloha from Hawaii Via Satellite. As kids,
it was annoying, but now I appreciate his music
and voice because it reminds me of my parents.

Yo, Paola, whats your favorite holiday


travel destination?
French Polynesia is paradise. Especially
Bora Bora. The water is like a crystalline pool,
with colorful fish swimming around you.
At sunset, the women dip themselves in the
water like a Gauguin painting. And the
food is like being in Paris.

Rick Rubin
Kendrick Lamar, p.90
Hey, Rick, whats the best holiday gift
youve ever received?
Spending time with friends and loved
ones in a beautiful place, enjoying nature.
Nothing competes.

30

HOLIDAY 2016

GQStyle

SEE ADDITIONAL CREDITS.

INTERVIEWER

32

HOLIDAY 2016

GQStyle

THE

142 Dynamite Git


Ideas for Your Home,
Office & Closet

HOLIDAY WISH LIST

T H E B I G H O L I D AY W I S H L I S T

FROM LEFT

Patek Philippe
$22,000
Hublot x Berluti
$29,400
Rolex $37,550
Audemars Piguet
$44,100

34

JOSS McKINLEY

HOLIDAY 2016

GQStyle

1.
The New
Standard in
Gold Watches
Men are like raccoons: Were
attracted to ashy objects.
But if youre the kind of guy who
doesnt just want a gold watch
you want the gold watchsitting
boldly at the top of your wish
list, you no longer have to choose
from 50 dierent options.
You only have to choose from four.

T H E B I G H O L I D AY W I S H L I S T

2.
Killer Croc

Ralph provides a
miniature padlock
in case you dont want
strangers stealing
whats inside your
bag. As for someone
stealing the bag
itselfnot much he
can do for you there.
FROM LEFT

Santoni $8,900
Ralph Lauren
$25,000

36

JOSS McKINLEY

HOLIDAY 2016

GQStyle

With their glossy nishes and scaly


textures, crocodile and alligator
goods have a funny way of reminding
the world that youre on top of the
food chain. Turn the page to see a
briefcase with silver ligree corners.
Dirty Harry would squeal like a
schoolgirl if he pulled that out from
under the Christmas tree.

With this one portfolio,


Herms has found a
way to replace: your
briefcase, your
wallet, your laptop
caseyou basically
dont even need
pockets anymore.
FROM LEFT

Herms $22,000
Brioni by Justin
OShea $27,850

38

HOLIDAY 2016

GQStyle

T H E B I G H O L I D AY W I S H L I S T

no..

3.
Dynamic
Turtlenecks
The turtleneck used to be seen as the
dressiest, dandiest, most louche piece
of knitwear. But right now the coolest
way to wear one, whether layered or on
its own, is with nonchalance.

A turtleneck
is already a more
advanced sweater.
To take it up another
level, find one with
a surprising sartorial
detail (like those
elbow patches) or a
busy pattern (like
this floral jacquard).
Dior Homme $920
+
pants Dior Homme

T H E B I G H O L I D AY W I S H L I S T

Marc Jacobs $475 + pants and boots Daniel Cremieux


bracelet Pandora

Tomorrowland $425 + pants Salvatore Ferragamo


boots Dolce & Gabbana

Daniel Cremieux $695 + pants Daniel Cremieux

Etro $1,500 + coat Belvest

GQStyle

HOLIDAY 2016

BJA R N E J O N A SSO N

41

T H E B I G H O L I D AY W I S H L I S T

4.
Sublime
Ceramics

Willy Guhl Planters


AN T I Q UE

The influence of this


Swiss designer is as
mighty as his designs.
These indoor-outdoor
planters are instant
game changers for
any room or patio and
only get better with
the patina of time.
$975$1,200
Elizabeth Pash
Antiques and
Decoration via
1stdibs.com

Thanks to a culture thats skewed


a little too digital and a little too
corporate, theres a much needed
arts-and-crafts revival under way.
And its created a boom in pottery.
Ceramicists are nding new ways
to make practical objects like
mugs, pitchers, and planters into
gallery-level sculpture. Here, we
kick things off with two vintage
pieces by the late, legendary
Willy Guhlbefore giving it over
to our favorite contemporary
makers from around the globe.

Architectural Pottery
SA N DIEGO

Made by hand in
the U.S. since 1950,
these strikingly
simple geometric
planters were
favorites among
midcentury architects
and have been
exhibited at MoMA.
$270$1,150
architectural
pottery.com

GQStyle

HOLIDAY 2016

J O SS Mc K I N LE Y

43

no.

T H E B I G H O L I D AY W I S H L I S T

1. Settlewell

2. Shino Takeda

3. K&R

L ONG BEACH, CA

BROOKLYN

L O S AN G EL ES

Tie-dyed concrete,
anyone? Laura
Cornman uses
handmade molds
and pigment
blends to ensure
that each piece
transcends
the ordinary.
$50$70
settlewell.com

Originally from
Kyushu in southern
Japan, an area
known for its pottery,
Takeda playfully
blends traditional
Japanese forms with
the vibrant energy
of her new home in
New York.
$280
shinotakeda.com

Husband-and-wife
artists Kat Hutter
and Roger Lee make
high-fired stoneware
that looks good
enough to display,
but is meant to
be used on the daily.
$60$250
katandroger.com

4. Akio Nukaga

5. Suzanne Sullivan

K A SA M A , JA PA N

B RO O KLY N

The Japanese
master potter throws
clay pots that look
like they could be
from ancient times.
Theyve been sold
and exhibited around
the world at places
like Heath Ceramics
in San Francisco
and Merci in Paris.
$130$580
akio-nukaga.com

Sullivans handbuilt porcelain


pieces truly blur the
line between art
and craftlet her
gilded, wonky
teacups take your
morning breakfast
routine to a whole
other dimension.
$60$70
suzannesullivan
ceramics.com

GQStyle

HOLIDAY 2016

45

no.

T H E B I G H O L I D AY W I S H L I S T

6. Derek Wilson
Ceramics

7. Clam Lab

B EL FAS T

By using unique
glaze and re-firing
pieces several
times, ceramicist
Clair Catillaz creates
primitive designs
that look like ancient
unearthed artifacts.
$60$350
clamlab.com

Made on his wheel


or hand-slabbed,
Wilsons celadonglazed porcelain and
stoneware designs
are deceptively simple,
with inventive color
and geometry that
upends expected shapes.
$182$468
derekwilson
ceramics.com

C ATSK ILL, NY

8. Robert Hessler

9. Heath Ceramics

K IN G STO N, N Y

SAUSAL I T O, C A

The freaky shapes


of Hesslers handthrown pieces are
striking enough,
but its the special
glazing technique
he uses to crystallize
the surface that
really makes them
come alive.
$275$695
roberthessler.com

One of Californias
original potteries
and still in the
game, Heath makes
simple, modern
pieces that serve as
an ideal entry point
for any burgeoning
ceramics-head.
$26$122
heathceramics.com

GQStyle

HOLIDAY 2016

47

T H E B I G H O L I D AY W I S H L I S T

5.
Gloves with
Punch
Yep, theres a chance that if
you buy nice gloves youll
leave them at coat check or
in the back of an Uber. But
its also true that timidity in
style is never rewarded. So
strap on your positive mental
attitude and buy a legit pair
of gloves. Wear them with
pride and make them part of
your regular winter routine
and youll nd that theyre as
easy to keep track of as your
keys, wallet, and iPhone
but they pack way more style.

J O S S M C KINLE Y

If youre not ready


to wear a full-blown
fur coat like cover
guy Kendrick Lamar,
pull on some foxlined glovesslightly
more subtle but
no less decadent.
Kiton $1,060
+
jacket by Berluti

Hestra $144

Ermenegildo Zegna $695

Moncler Gamme Bleu $430

Loro Piana $4,875

Dsquared2 $465

Prada $345

Tods $445

PS by Paul Smith $225

SEE ADDITIONAL CREDITS.

Louis Vuitton $810

GQStyle

HOLIDAY 2016

49

Mad et Len
Terre Noire
If there is a more
tasteful, distinctive
way to enhance the
smell of your living
space than with
scented amber rocks
in a blackenediron tin, we arent
aware of it.
$145

50

JOSS McKINLEY

Tom Ford Oud


Wood Candle
Still think candles
are girlie? Meet
Tom Fords superpremium line of
musky wax packed
in heavy burnished
containers.
$250

HOLIDAY 2016

GQStyle

T H E B I G H O L I D AY W I S H L I S T
High Lonesome
by Mondo Mondo
for Land
Fragrance-andjewelry maker Mondo
Mondo teamed with
the Texas-based
design house Land on
this scent fit for a
cowboy. (See: notes of
mesquite, leather,
dirt, and desert rain.)
$175

Cinnamon Projects
Incense sticks from
this New York City
based creative agency
come marked with
the time of day that
inspired them. Burn
the 7 a.m., infused
with black tea and
marigold, before work,
and the 2 a.m., infused
with cedarwood,
cinnamon, and honey,
after a night out.
$30 for 25 sticks
$240 for burner

Ex Nihilo Amber Sky


If the classic amber
scent isnt rich enough
for you on its own,
Bergdorf Goodman
in N.Y.C. lets you
laser-engrave the
glass container
with your initials.
$525 for 100 ml.

6.
Glorious Smell-Goods
The dawn of the artisanal-everything era has brought with it a fresh, fragrant
universe of unique colognes, candles, incense, and more. From mystical
room-cleansing wood to a new scent from an Italian luxury juggernaut, these
are the gifts of good smell to give (and receive) this season.

1. Santa Maria
Novella Acqua di
S.M. Novella-Parfum
You want old-school
pedigree? This fresh,
citrusy scent was first
made by Dominican
monks for Catherine
de Medici in 1533.
$125

2. LHomme Prada
The latest from
Prada is a mix of iris
and amber. Plus, the
bottle looks as nice
on top of your dresser
as Miuccia Pradas
shoes do on your feet.
$98
3. Byredo Unnamed
Perfume
To celebrate ten years
in the business,
these Swedes released
a perfume (smells
like pink pepper and
gin) that comes
with a letter transfer
sheet so you can
name it yourself.
$230 for 100 ml.

4. Rgime des
Fleurs Water/Wood
All of RdFs scents
are made by hand in
Los Angeles. This
one, our favorite, has
been said to smell like
an underwater forest.
$165

SEE ADDITIONAL CREDITS.

5. Frdric Malle
Traveling with your
favorite fragrance?
Luxury luggage
brand Valextra has
got you covered with
leather cases made
just for Frdric Malle.
50-ml. case $280

52

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GQStyle

T H E B I G H O L I D AY W I S H L I S T

no.

6. Land by Land
The N.Y.C. fragrance
atelier produces a
variety of incense and
candles made with
natural ingredients,
including ingenious
one-ounce travel
candles and these sixouncers for home.
FROM LEFT

incense $34
candle $42
7. Norden Goods
Two things we
lovesmell-goods
and ceramicswere
combined for these
hand-poured candles
that come in reusable
stoneware containers.
FROM LEFT

candle $55
hand soap $25
incense $20
8. Astier de Villatte
Its no wonder
that these bottles of
fragrance from a
Parisian ceramics
maker look as
good as whats
inside them smells.
-

FROM LEFT

incense $52
cologne $110
cologne $165
cologne $165
candle $94
9. Incausa
The company sources
Fair Trade artisanal
goods from around
the world, including
incense made using
breu resin and palo
santoa mystical
South American holy
wood used to cleanse
the energy in spaces
from Brazil and Peru.
$18 for nine sticks

The pride of Canada


since 1931, Viberg
makes these boots
waterproof, but just
in case, the company
stashes a polishing
cloth and bottle of
leather conditioner
in every shoebox.
Viberg $640

T H E B I G H O L I DAY W I S H L I S T

7.
Snow-Melting Boots
Whether youre asking Fashion Santa for a pair
or buying them for yourself, you need boots
thatll get you through the slushy season. The best
ones out there hit right at your ankle and work
everywhere from the woods beside your country house
to the puddle-pocked crosswalks back in town.

Moncler $670

Off-White c/o Virgil Abloh $870

GQStyle

HOLIDAY 2016

Missoni $760
JOSH D I C K I N SO N

ZOH A R L A Z A R

55

no.

T H E B I G H O L I DAY W I S H L I S T

Giorgio Armani $1,195

OKeeffe $955

Kiton $1,835

John Varvatos $798

56

HOLIDAY 2016

GQStyle

The boots on this


page are more
for snowy city streets
than muddy forest
floors, but they still
have serious tiretread soles that will
keep your feet dry.
Louis Vuitton $1,480

T H I S PAG E , C LO C K W I S E
FROM TOP LEFT

hudson glass $2,590


John Hogan
hourglass timers
$13 to $29 Hay
paperweight $117
Carl Aubck
cuff links $150
Paul Smith
bottle opener $55
Futagami

58

JOSS McK I NLE Y

HOLIDAY 2016

GQStyle

T H E B I G H O L I DAY W I S H L I S T

8.
Desk Toys for
Grown-ups
Ever noticed how all the coolest
stu at all your favorite mens stores
is on the table up by the register?
We have, so we surveyed all the highend knickknacks out there till we
found the best of the best. And
now were presenting them here as
stocking stuers for men of taste
and style. The idea is to surround
yourself with objects that are
inspiring, entertainingand, in
some cases, actually useful.

T H I S PAG E , C LO C K W I S E
FROM TOP LEFT

tape dispenser $117


Beyond Object
antique lighter $1,150
Cartier
diamond box $15
Areaware
fountain pen $1,565
Montblanc

T H I S PAG E ,
C LO C K W I S E F RO M TO P

miniature
barcelona chair
$384
Vitra Design
Museum
english horn
clothes brush $100
The Butlers Closet
pocketknife $1,815
Chrome Hearts
pocket squares
$60 each Drakes
copper flask $299
Jacob Bromwell
quartz cluster $40
Rock Star Crystals

T H E B I G H O L I DAY W I S H L I S T

no.

T H I S PAG E ,
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT

silver feather
pendant $460
First Arrows
shoehorn $85
The Butlers Closet
silver feather ring
$430 First Arrows
matches $16 for 60
Skeem Design

GQStyle

HOLIDAY 2016

61

9.
Suits That
Never Leave
the House
Every time we go out, we
try to look our bestso why,
at home, do we resort to
souvenir T-shirts and mesh
Phoenix Suns shorts? A
proper pajama set, expressly
made for leisure time, looks as
suave as it feels. You deserve
the upgrade, and so does
whoever youre sleeping with.

Back in the mid-1970s,


when the answer to
Do ya think Im sexy? still
couldve conceivably
been Yes, Rod Stewart
posted up in his pajamas
at Londons posh
Royal Garden Hotel.

PA G E S 3 4 3 9 , 4 2 4 8 , 5 0 5 1 , 5 8 6 1 , 6 4 6 5 , P R O P S T Y L I S T: B R I A N P R I M E A U X A T M A R E K A S S O C I A T E S .
PA G E S 4 0 4 1 , 6 3 , G R O O M I N G : S C O T T M C M A H A N F O R K A T E R YA N I N C . PA G E S 5 5 5 6 , P R O P S T Y L I S T: T R I N A O N G A T H A L L E Y R E S O U R C E S .

T H E B I G H O L I DAY W I S H L I S T

Dolce & Gabbana $995


Thom Browne New York $1,780

Emporio Armani Underwear $210 (shirt) | $135 (pants)


bracelets Tateossian

Burberry $795 (shirt) + bracelet Pandora

GQStyle

HOLIDAY 2016

BJARNE JONASSON

63

T H E B I G H O L I D AY W I S H L I S T

10.
The Complete Home Bar Cart
The holidays call for a cocktail, and drinking cocktails at home
calls for a cool vintage bar cart. As far as how to trick yours out, heres
the deal: Strike the perfect balance between classic and next wave
with your booze. That means keeping inalienable standards like
Beefeater and Wild Turkey on hand at all times while maintaining
a steady rotation of new spirits like Greenhook Ginsmiths and
W. L. Weller (the bourbon to get when you cant get Pappy Van Winkle).
There are only two essential mixing glasses (a Boston shaker with a
strainer and a Yarai glass with a nice weighted bar spoon) and two
essential bitters (Angostura and Peychauds). And when it comes
to glassware, theres only one name that matters: Baccarat.

Bottles

Tools

CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP LEFT

old tom gin $46


Greenhook
Ginsmiths
mezcal joven $47
Ilegal
vermouth $13
Cocchi Vermouth
di Torino
tequila $125
Don Julio 1942
gin $25
Beefeater
japanese whisky $85
Suntory Hakushu
12 Year

GQStyle

HOLIDAY 2016

CLOCKWISE FROM

rum $30
Smith & Cross
bourbon
Wild Turkey 101 $25
W. L. Weller
12 Year $25

Glassware
CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP LEFT

tumblers (2) $270


and old-fashioned
glasses (2) $430
Baccarat

scotch $260
The Macallan 18

boston-style
shaker $125
Alessi

tequila $45
Patrn Silver

mixing glass $45


Cocktail Kingdom

bitters
Peychauds $6
Angostura $8

champagne
coupe $180
Baccarat

JOSS McKINLEY

TOP LEFT

antique
mechanical
jigger $375
Sir Jacks
bowl $330
Christofle
bar spoon $23
and fine strainer $7
Cocktail Kingdom
coaster set $175
Ralph Lauren
ice bucket $1,100
and tongs $355
Christofle

Bar Cart
circa-1950
antique $2,950
Area iD via
1stdibs.com

65

L ABELS ON FIRE

5 FASHION BRANDS THAT


NOAH

All eyes are on a storied Italian house, an upstart


Scandinavian studio, and a little spot in downtown
N.Y.C. Add a couple of special projects so cool
were practically throwing cash at the folks
behind them, and youve got a lineup that will give
your wardrobe just the right amount of buzz.
MISSONI

66

SEE ADDITIONAL CREDITS.

ARE HEATING UP WINTER

ACNE
ST U D I O S

GQStyle

HOLIDAY 2016

67

L ABELS ON FIRE

MISSONI

A Royal Family of
Italian Fashion
Seizes Its Moment

With its special looms


and long tradition
of complex knits,
missoni is perfectly
poised for this rare
moment in menswear:
when theres nothing
we want more than
color, pattern, and
just the right dose
of psychedelia.

ttavio Missoni was an Olympic hurdler, a remarkable colorist,


and one of the best-dressed men in the world. (Dont just take our
word for it: He made the International Best-Dressed List in 1982.)
He and his wife, Rosita, ran the business they started together in
1953 until 1997, when they passed it on to their children, making
daughter Angela the creative director.
Now, at a time when many major European fashion labels join
conglomerations and hire celebrity designers to remain relevant,
Missoni thrives by keeping the brain trust in the family and constantly referencing its history. What was very inspiring was my
fathers personality, Angela says. He always had this laid-back
attitude. Dressing his own way. Totally different.
An athletic vibe remains a key part of Missoni today, and for
fall 16 it went outdoorsy, releasing a collection ready for the glorious natural landscape of woods, lake, and mountains that can be
seen from the companys home base in Varese, Italy. We live and
work in a beautiful place, Angela says. It takes your life to another
level. My parents built the factory in a place where they would love
to live, in the middle of woods with a beautiful view. This is the bigger gift that my parents really gave us. N O A H J O H N S O N

68

HOLIDAY 2016

GQStyle

THE ELDER STATESMAN


SCORES THE MOTHER OF
ALL COLLABORATIONS

SEE ADDITIONAL CREDITS.

THE NBA

TAKE IT
FROM A
MENSWEAR
PRO

Im all about new brands. But


theres always something particularly
intriguing about a historic brand
that is all of a sudden super relevant.
Even though its an Italian brand,
Missoni feels very West Coast
American. For the past few years,
theres been a huge focus in
menswear on the West Coast, and
Missonis making collections

all about mountaineering in


the Pacific Northwest or hippiesurf counterculture. Brands in
menswear focus on black, navy,
and gray, but Missoni has always
been about color and pattern,
and I think the rest of the world
is catching up.Josh Peskowitz,
co-founder of Los Angeless
new menswear haven Magasin

Theres no shortage of
wearable hoops memorabilia
out there, but not much
of it is designed for fans who
care whether their Warriors
tees are cashmereand
hand-tie-dyed in Los Angeles.
So Greg Chait, founder of
Cali-based luxury-cashmeregoods purveyor The Elder
Statesman, dreamed up
this collection of team merch
made in partnership with
the NBA. Expect drops of
new gear throughout the
seasonand to see Jay, Bey,
Drake, and other courtside
types buying in early. N . J .

Innovation is in
Missonis DNA: Ottavio
and Rosita developed
their signature zigzag
pattern by adapting
a machine traditionally
used for shawls
and then adding their
own wild colors.

69

L ABELS ON FIRE

ACNE STUDIOS

The High-Fashion
Brand of
the Future
after nearly 20 years of making the official jeans
of global cool kids, this boundary-pushing swedish
brand is evolving along with its obsessive fan base.
Time to refile acne as a major player in high fashion.

isit any Acne Studios store


you pick: Could be any one of the
Swedish labels locations in 22
cities around the world, including Paris, New York, L.A., Seoul,
and Hong Kongand youll likely
find the most perfectly cut nylon
bomber jacket hanging on a rack
next to a sweater covered in hot
dogs, or a crazy pair of pleated
high-gloss polyurethane trousers beside some simple, elegant
wool suit pants. Point is: No other
brand in menswear has more perfectly balanced the eccentric with
the essential. Makes sense, then,
that Acne, founded by creative
director Jonny Johansson in 1997,
started out with something that
can be equal parts both: jeans.
Today, the brand is a rising player
in global fashion, capable of hanging with the most avant-garde
and mass-market designers alike.
That duality is why the seemingly
anonymous brand with the funny
pink shopping bags is so compelling right now. We sat down with
Johansson to figure out what
makes him tickand whats making Acne grow. N O A H J O H N S O N

70

HOLIDAY 2016

GQStyle

SEE ADDITIONAL CREDITS.

I think you always


have to consider
what space youre in,
where you are, what
your opinion is about
that, says Johansson,
whose personal love
for art and architecture
informs the interiors
of Acne Studios stores
around the world.

INSIDE
THE MIND
OF ACNE
STUDIOS
CREATIVE
DIRECTOR
JONNY
JOHANSSON

  'R\RXIHHOWKDW\RXU
FROOHFWLRQVKDYHEHFRPHPRUH
SHUVRQDOZLWKHDFKVHDVRQ"
  Im really
into the word honest in fashion.
Im trying to stay contemporary,
you know, and also personal at the
same time. I find that sometimes
fashion becomes about exoticism.
I think everyday life is more
interesting, in a way.

Johansson booked
two fellow surfers,
board shaper Robin
Kegel (to model) and
David Sims (to shoot
photos), for Acnes
spring 16 campaign.

3RSFXOWXUHDQGIDVKLRQDUH
VRFRQQHFWHGQRZ'RHVWKDW
LQWHUHVW\RX"
Theres always this need for
companies to promote themselves
via celebrities, but I think its a
double-edged sword. I like Drake,
for instance. I think hes an amazing

songwriter, but Id like it to stay


that way. Im not the person that
needs to dress him in my clothing.
You would like somebody to ask
for your clothing rather than forcing
them to wear your clothing.
2WKHUZLVHLWVHHPVPDQXIDFWXUHG
I meet a lot of young designers
who want to be part of the fashion
circus, and actually, you know,
its not a circus. Its really about
expression. Creative expression.
Its not about whos wearing it,
really. I like the democratic point
of view rather than the exclusive.
I think theres something else
going on at the moment, in these
last ten years. Its been more
about branding than anything else.
Like, if I see Rihanna, for instance,
you know, its just the latest
brand. Theres no expression. She
expresses amazingly with her
voice, but the other communication
is soulless. Branded.
:KDWVWKHVWRU\EHKLQG$FQHV
LQVWDQWO\UHFRJQL]DEOHSLQN
VKRSSLQJEDJV"
People considered pink ugly. They
didnt want the pink bag. And
thats like when we did the first pair
of jeansI gave them to a lot of
my friends, and most of my friends
said, Yes, thank you, but didnt
use the clothing and thought it was
pretty weird. The same with the

pink bag. If everybody thinks its


beautiful, its wrong in a way. I dont
want it to be sort of blah, you
know, like soulless. I want it to have
some sort of energy.
7KHVWRUHLQWHULRUVDUHLQVWDQWO\
UHFRJQL]DEOHWRR
I always said that I dont want
the McDonalds concept, or like
a Gucci sort of store, where
its all looking the same. Not that
I dont like Gucci, but theyre
always very, very similar everywhere.
They create the format, and
then they mass-distribute. And
that becomes a bit disconnected
from time, disconnected from
the area or the place theyre in.
'R\RXIHHOFRQQHFWHGWRWKH
KLVWRU\RI6FDQGLQDYLDQGHVLJQ"
When we got our first press
recognition, I was asked in every
interview if we were doing
Scandinavian design, and I never
really understood how to answer
the question. I did a big project
on a Scandinavian architectit
took, like, one yearto see if I have
some relationship to Scandinavian
design, trying to figure out what
it is. My big conclusion was that Im
a maximalist, unfortunately. And
the thing is, I think maximalism
is more important and democratic
than minimalism. Minimalism is
very restricted.

71

LABELS ON FIRE

NOAH

New Yorks
Underground
Street King
CLOTHES THIS CHILL ARENT SO EASY TO MAKE

Brendon Babenziens growing fashion


cult thrives on retro sportswear,
dgaf punk attitude, and a
dedication to making clothes with
real conscience and soul.

ou dont have to wear wacky clothes to be an interesting


person, says Noah designer Brendon Babenzien. Andy
Warhol, Basquiat, David Byrnethese guys all knew how to
take something really normal and turn it on its head and make it
look fresh. Having spent more than a decade as design director at Supreme, Babenzien knows a thing or two about making
fresh (and incredibly covetable) menswear. But even without
a box logo on the clothes, Babenzien has quickly turned Noah
into one of the most buzzed-about brands in New York. While
it would be easy to repeat a wildly successful Supreme-like
formula, Babenzien aims to do more with Noah. I want to
layer on top of my past 20 years a few new important components: I want the clothes to be cool and interesting, sure, but I
also want to work with the best suppliers in the world and be
concerned for the things around me, bring information to people, establish a new relationship with the public. His goals are
more punk than capitalist. We dont have massive, projected
plans. The best thing that could happen to us is if we feel better about the stuff we make season to season. S A M U E L H I N E

72

The ribbed cashmere sweater is milled and knit in Scotland at one of the worlds premier
knitting mills. Theyre dealing with the best luxury brands in the world, says Babenzien.
Then we come along, and for whatever reason, theyve been very open to working with us
and very excited to see us do something a little dierent with their things.

HOLIDAY 2016

GQStyle

PLEASE TAKE
OUR MONEY NOW

SEE ADDITIONAL CREDITS.

N OA H S N O L I TA
C LU B H O U S E
When it opened in
2015, the Noah store in
Manhattans Nolita
neighborhood quickly
became a go-to hangout
spot for the citys styleminded dudes. Weve
done our best to make
this a home away from
home, in the same way
that a family that owns a
pizzeria spends their
whole lives there. The
store stocks items from a
select few other brands,
including Paraboot shoes,
sunglasses from Vuarnet
and Etnia Barcelona, and
Smathers & Branson belts.

I like the mix of athleticism and style, Babenzien says. Its


a very traditional mentality. Maybe Im just nostalgic,
but I dont particularly care for the contemporary version
of that, with the spandex tights and weird neon tops.

DRAKES
THROWBACK
PRINT
SCARVES
We make things the oldfashioned way, says
Michael Hill, creative director
of Drakes, not just for
the sake of the story, but
because it makes the
products more beautiful.
Case in point: this seasons
exotic-animal prints,
Egyptian motifs, and archival
patterns on the finest wool
and silk fabrics out there.
Drakes started in 1977, but
these are easily the flyest
neck warmers of 2017. S . H .

The overshirt is made of Italian Casentino wool, which


is traditionally used in overcoats and even monks robes.
Its also extremely durable: I expect to see this shirt in
20 years not looking very dierent from how it does today.

73

B U Y I N G F O R VA L U E

After getting raked over


the coals one too many times
by his wireless provider,
our well-traveled chief value
correspondent, Michael
Williams, assembled the
ultimate money-saving,
stress-obliterating, vacationelevating travel kit.

This summer Dwyane Wade, Chris Paul, LeBron James,


and their wives rented a yacht together in Spain. Soon
after the trip, D-Wade told Kelly Ripa that LeBron refused to
turn on his data roaming when out of range of the yachts
Wi-Fi. Now, this makes you think, if a bazillionaire doesnt want
to pay for data, no one does.
Anyone who regularly travels internationally has to ask
himself the question: Why does mobile data cost so
freaking much? If youre not vigilant about living in airplane
mode, it can be very easy to get skewered by the phone
company. And it happens to the best of uslike the time
I went to Tahiti and racked up $1,000 in data charges within
15 minutes of hitting French Polynesia.
After that trip, I vowed to take charge of my travel tech
and quickly found a bunch of simple work-arounds that will
keep you gramming, snapping, tweeting, and Google
Mappingeven when youre thousands of miles from home.
Because prepaid mobile 4G costs a fraction of what you
would pay for your U.S. data-roaming plan, the first thing
you need is the mobile Wi-Fi unit known as a Huawei 4G mini
device. (Make sure you get the unlocked version.) Then
buy a pre-paid SIM card when you arrive in whatever far-flung
destination you find yourself in. Huawei is not a well-known
brand in the Statesand apparently the U.S. government has
security concerns about using the Chinese manufacturer

74

ANDREW B. MYERS

but it doesnt really bother me if Beijing knows Im deep


into streaming season two of Narcos on my vacation.
I do this every summer when Im in Italy. I swing by
the local TIM shop, flash my passport, load up, and get the
Wi-Fi flowing. This past summer in Florence, I got a deal on
30 gigabytes worth of data for 50 euros, which meant I could
wake up every night at 3 a.m. and stream the NBA Finals
without fear of bankruptcy. If you dont want to buy the MiFi
device, there are also services that rent mobile Wi-Fi all over
the globe. In Japan, you can take delivery via Japan Post right
at your hotel. In Iceland, for an extra ten euros a day, a mobile
Wi-Fi machine was included with the Land Rover we rented
and came with unlimited data. That noise you hear is the sweet
sound of the phone companys accounting department crying.
The next challenge when it comes to being outward-bound
is battery life. My favorite power-charger brand is Anker.
Its smart-charger ports automatically know what current to
deliver to all my various devices, so along with an outlet
converter from the simplicity masters at Muji, thats my charging
hub back at the hotel. But its also crucial to have an extra
mobile-battery backup to keep that Wi-Fi pumping out the
Spotify and navigation. And Anker makes simple power
bricks that work really well. The version I like has multiple USB
ports for different devices, and it packs a big punch of power,
giving me something crazy like five iPhone recharges. Take
this thing to Burning Man and everyone in your commune
can power their mindfulness appsand still have enough juice
to call for a ride out of there when it all becomes too much.
Gone is the stress of always searching for a place to recharge.
Gone is the desperation of sitting on the airport floor,
wheezing juice from a wall outlet.
Because I travel with a camera and lens that have to be
carried on, my focus is always on simplifying my kiteliminating
extras and getting ever lighter. Being able to do more with less
led me to switch to the Apple iPad Pro (with the Apple keyboard
cover) as a laptop replacement. Its smaller and lighter, and
the TSA says it doesnt need to come out of my bag at security.
It also means I dont need to haul around a laptop charger.
I dont know about you, but when I travel, the thing I value
the most is feeling like a localand having a poweredup and dialed-in smartphone with a slew of apps chewing
through data is the first step. From there, I just have to
remember to look up from my phone every now and then
to take in the epic views.
is the founder of the blog A Continuous
Leanand many other stellar menswear-related projects.
MICHAEL WILLIAMS

HOLIDAY 2016

C LO C K W I S E F R O M TO P L E F T

utility bag $19


Topo Designs
converter $25 Muji
mobile wi-fi unit $173
Huawei
portable charger $22
Anker
camera from $1,500
Leica
wall charger $26
Anker
ipad pro from $599
ipad pro keyboard
$169 Apple

GQStyle

P R O P S T Y L I S T: G R A C E H A R T N E T T. I L L U S T R A T I O N : L A U R E N T A M A K I .

THE TRAVEL-TECH GO-BAG YOUR


GREEDY PHONE COMPANY DOESNT
WANT YOU TO HAVE

To walk through the doors of


RTH is to fall right o the
grid. You are not in Los Angeles
anymore. This is not the year
2016. You have entered an
insanely stylish wrinkle in time
filled with hand-thrown
ceramics, reworked
vintage jeans, and all sorts
of sublime curios curated by
a man named Ren Holguin.
As Erykah Badu explains,
theres something ancient about
RTHs two side-by-side shops
but they also feel like the future.
76

JONATHAN SNYDER

TKTKTK SEE ADDITIONAL CREDITS.

THE LITTLE
SHOP OF
WONDERS

T E M P L E S O F A D VA N C E D S T Y L E

GQStyle

HOLIDAY 2016

T E M P L E S O F A D VA N C E D S T Y L E

Ceramics and pottery


are a global truth,
Holguin says. Theres
not a culture that doesnt
work in the forms. A
bowl can serve as art or
serve a meal or hold
your mail. Its like a white
shirt: What you choose
to do with it is where
your style comes from.

The ever changing walls


of RTH are dense with
Holguins art finds and
style inspirations. And the
presentation of the clothes
is just as heavily layered.

  +RZGLG\RXILUVWGLVFRYHU57+"
  About six years ago, I was walking down
the street in L.A. and I saw this small little shop. I was attracted
to it; it was the pots, I guess. When I went in, I felt like I was in
heaven. It smelled gloriousthe incense. The color palette at
the time was tan, navy, and red. Everything looked so dreamy.
,WWDNHVDERXWPLQXWHVWRDFFOLPDWHWRWKHVKRS8QWLO\RX
WDNHLWDOOLQLWVKDUGWRIRFXVRQDQ\RQHWKLQJ
Before Ren got the second shop, it was just the one. The first
shop is so small. You walk around it one or two timesthen
you just want to do it again. You want to stay in that world, you
want to see whats at the back door. You want to know Ren.
+RZGLG\RXWZRFRQQHFW"
We just kind of fell in love! We exchanged numbers and started
to text each other: photos of stuff wed seen, beautiful things
we love. A cloud, a sky, something blue, something beautiful.
We have so much in common. We both feel connected to
nature, and yet we also try to face society. We both gravitate
toward the aesthetics of tribe-based societies.

GROOMING: HEE SOO KWON USING DAVINES

:KDWLVLWDERXWWULEHV"
I dont know how to describe itI just feel very close to
tribe-based cultures, the indigenous people of the land
that we walk on. Before colonization, before industrialization,
there was this beautiful art conceived just from our minds.
Shoes, jewelry, clothes, the way we wore our hair. The dance,
the aroma, the food. When I see Rens art, thats what I see.
Its a mixture of Asian and Native American and Mexican and
South Americanso many different things. And its combined
with comfort. The clothes are very, very comfortable.
<RXDQG5HQERWKORYHWREUHDNWKHWUDGLWLRQDO$PHULFDQ
VLOKRXHWWH:K\LVWKDW"
I dont know. Ive been called a nonconformist, Ive been
called avant-garde. I dont think it stops with my clothing. Its
the way I sing, the way I write, the way I tweet, the way I talk,
the way I dance, the way I move. I dont know where it comes
from, but what Im attracted to aesthetically is what Im
trying to communicate. Theres so much in my brain, I dont
even know how Im going to get it all out. But when I met
Ren, I felt a very kindred kinship. A friend, a brother, a twin,
you know. Hes ancient-futuristic.

78

HOLIDAY 2016

GQStyle

This is my RTH tribe,


says Holguin (center).
The new collection has
leopard and python
prints. I was in Japan with
the clothes, and I asked
how to say Its all a little
fucked-up. They said
the closest thing is Its all
a little psycho. Perfect.

Ive been cropping and


tapering my pants forever;
I started slouching them
when I moved to L.A.,
Holguin says. To get the
RTH slouch, he adds a
panel of found fabric to the
crotch of vintage jeans.

'R\RXWKLQNREMHFWVOLNHWKHRQHV5HQFROOHFWVLQ
WKHVKRSKDYHHQHUJ\"
I dont know, but I feel them. When someone gives me a
gift, I feel the energy and the love and the intent of the thing.
And photos of peoplewhen I put them up in my house,
Im reminded daily of that persons energy and love, their
encouragement. When I take the photos down, its a little
weirdI dont hear from that person for a while. So I know
which ones I need to take down. [laughs] Everything that
fans give me, I keep. My partner calls me a hoarder. Ive
made altars of the jewelry, and the paintings line the floors
to the ceilings in my home. It means a lot that theyd do
thatits really their heart. Same thing with clothes. Everything
I wear means something.
6RGR\RXJHWDWWDFKHGWREHDXWLIXOWKLQJV"
When I lose something, I just feel like: Its supposed to
belong to somebody else now.
,WVHHPVOLNHWKHSHRSOHZLWKWKHEHVWWDVWHDOOWKHJUHDW
FROOHFWRUVZKRDUHOLNHPDJQHWVIRUVWUDQJHZRQGHUIXO
LQWHUHVWLQJREMHFWVDUHDOVRWKHPRVWZLOOLQJWROHWVWXIIJR

Or to give things away. When Ren and I see each other, we


are always giving one another something off of our bodies,
or hes putting extra stuff in my bag. We really want to exchange
energy in any way possible.
+RZGLG\RXUSKRWRFROODERUDWLRQZLWK57+FRPHDERXW"
'LG5HQVW\OH\RXLQ57+FORWKHV"
Yeah. You know, I style myself. I dont really have a stylist. But
with Ren, it was different. I wanted to be what he saw in his
mind, and I was totally honored to be the muse for him. And my
family was in the shoot as well. My mother, my sister, and my
children were all in the shoot. So it became the tribe of us. [For a
first look at RTHs shoot with Erykah and her family, see page 30.]
+RZGR\RXXVXDOO\PL[57+FORWKHVLQZLWK
RWKHUVWXII\RXZHDU"
I have on a piece of his every day. Theyre so comfortable
and exchangeable and easygoing. And they always smell
like the shop. Its just part of the everyday fabric of my life.
It sounds like a commercial, doesnt it? [singing] The fabric
of my life And walking into the shop is like walking
into Rens heart. Just without all the blood, you know?

79

FAS H I ON SC H OO L

When the right designer puts the Zeitgeist in a choke hold with an
inspired collection, 12 minutes of loud music, bright lights, and runway
catwalking can send the culture careening in wild new directions.
Here, we break down 16 fashion shows that changed the way we dress.
by Noah Johnson

THE MOST
INFLUENTIAL
RUNWAY
SHOWS OF
ALL TIME
PRADA

Fall-Winter 2012

Miuccia Prada wasnt


the first designer
to send celebrities
striding down the
catwalk as models,
but she did it biggest
and best. In fact, the
wattage she pulled
still hasnt been
outshined. In a show
thats gone down
as one of fashions
greatest flexes, she
turned her runway
into a red carpet for
seven Hollywood
leading menamong
them Gary Oldman,
Adrien Brody, and
Willem Dafoeand
expanded the size
of menswears circus
tent forever.

80

HOLIDAY 2016

GQStyle

GQStyle

DIOR HOMME

Spring-Summer 2002

Before he stormed
the gates at Yves Saint
Laurent, Hedi Slimane
made his mark with
an influential stint as
the creative head of
Dior Homme from
2000 to 2007. Among
his contributions to
the menswear canon:
skinny jeans, skinny
ties, and skinny
models, many cast
from the street by
Slimane himself.
Perhaps his most
indelible legacy from
those years is the
skinny black suit, with
high armholes, narrow
sleeves, and lowrise trousers, that
became the uniform
for rockers (both
real and imagined)
throughout the aughts.

There came
this new
line from Hedi
Slimane at
Dior that you
needed to be
slim to wear.
It said: You
want this?
Go back to
your bones.
And so I lost
it all. I lost
88 pounds
and never got
them back.
KARL
L AGERFELD,
2010

82

HOLIDAY 2016

D O L C E & G A B B A N A | Fall 1996

According to the labels


co-founder Domenico Dolce,
absolute elegance was the
inspiration for his then ten-yearold brands famous Rat Pack
collection, which channeled the
masculine swagger of the
SinatrainPalm Springs era. That
meant retro polo shirts, velvety
smoking jackets, coats with
massive fur lapels, and a raft of
swanky accessories: Models wore
felt fedoras, chomped on long
cigarette holders, draped their
necks with silk ascots, and even
cradled live exotic cats in
their arms. (Hey, a show doesnt
become legendary without
a few truly wild, unforgettable
moments.) To quote GQ creative
director Jim Moore, who was
seated front row at the show in
Milan, Every piece was perfect.

GQStyle

FAS H I ON SC H OO L

R I C K O W E N S | Fall-Winter 2006

Few designers can match Owenss uncanny knack for jaw-dropping runway
high jinks. (His recent collections included penis-exposing tunics and
models backpack-strapped to other models in the 69 position.) Ten years
ago, at Pitti Uomo, he installed a wax statue that depicted him urinating
on the floor. But even that wasnt enough to eclipse the sports-inspired
clothes, which were so far ahead of their time they are still influencing
collections a decade later. The truly groundbreaking moment came with
the introduction of his iconic high-top Geobasket sneakers, the first-ever
high-fashion basketball shoes (there have been about, oh, a thousand trillion
variations since), that came to be known, simply, as the Rick Dunks.

I wanted
monster trucks
on my feet.

S T Y L I S T: J O C E LY N E B E A U D O I N . T H E S E PA G E S : S E E A D D I T I O N A L C R E D I T S .

RICK OWENS

H E N RY L E U T W Y L E R

FAS H I ON SC H OO L

S T E P H E N S P R O U S E | Fall 1984

Back when the East


Village concert
venue Webster Hall
was known as the
Ritz, punk-design
legend Stephen
Sprouse packed the
house for a show
of graffiti-inspired
prints and Pop
colors that brought
street culture to high
fashion. Among the
1,500 in attendance
were the most
glamorous downtown
personalities of
the time, including
Andy Warhol
and Debbie Harry.
It was near
pandemonium,
wrote Roger Padilha,
co-author of The
Stephen Sprouse
Book. Transgender
model Teri Toye
led the show, which
ended with a video

84

of a NASA shuttle
launching into
spacethe perfect
metaphor for
Sprouses trajectory.
In 2001, fellow
punk-influenced
designer Marc
Jacobs would
collaborate with
Sprouse on graffitiprint bags for
Louis Vuitton (and
siphon off untold
sums of cash from
fanboy Kanye West
as a result).

HOLIDAY 2016

H E L M U T L A N G | Autumn-Winter 1998

For arguably the single most influential runway


event ever, the minimalist (and now highly
collectible) designer, a man famous for pioneering
distressed denim and making military outerwear
chic, embraced technology in fashion like no
one had before him. The show was initially held
in a raw space with concrete floors, where he
presented his mens and womens collections not
for a seated audience but to be recorded and
broadcast over the fledgling Internet and later
distributed to the press via CD-ROM.

J E A N PA U L G A U L T I E R

Spring-Summer 1990

Whether they know it or not,


the labels leading the next wave
of sporty, gender-indifferent
fashionGivenchy, Hood by Air,
Public School, Off-Whiteowe
a major debt to Gaultier. His
spring-summer 1990 collection
had a rather esoteric inspiration
(The Invisible Man, the 1933 film
of the H. G. Wells novel), but the
clothes, which combined boxing
attire with tailoringthink ringready boots, hoodies under suits,
blazers with shorts and leggings
set the precedent for integrating
luxury fashion and athletic gear.

85

FAS H I ON SC H OO L

I sought comfortable
clothes that gave ease
to movement, comfort,
and nonchalance.
GIORGIO ARMANI

GIORGIO ARMANI

Fall 1990

As early as the
mid-1970s, Giorgio
Armani was gutting
jackets of the lining
and padding that
give them their
structure, redefining
Italian tailoring
along the way.
Around me, I only
saw men who wore
rigid jackets that
concealed the body,
imprisoning it, in
a sense, Armani tells
us today. I sought
the exact opposite:
comfortable clothes
that gave ease to
movement, comfort,
and nonchalance.
Gradually, I also
changed the layout
of the buttons
and changed its
proportions: It was a
process that radically
transformed this
garment. Since then,
my jackets have
been comfortable,
lightweight, and
even sensual in their
construction. His
fall 1990 collection
was the ultimate
expression of his
mission, one that
still resonates today.
The excessive
volume of the 90s
now seems outdated,
Armani says, but
the insistence on
softness is still seen.

86

HOLIDAY 2016

J U N Y A WA T A N A B E

Spring-Summer 2006

Fashion is still collaboration-crazy


(see recent collections from Gosha
Rubchinskiy and Vetements), and
nobody did it earlier, better, or more
obsessively than Junya Watanabe.
The Tokyo-based visionary
combined tailoring with rugged
workwear, bringing new life and a
fashion edge to tough fabrics like
canvas and denim by partnering
with eight iconic brandsincluding
Levis, Pointer, Dickies, Lacoste,
and Conversein one collection.

GQStyle

THOM BROWNE

Fall-Winter 2009

Thom Browne doesnt just


make beautifully constructed,
instantly recognizable suits
he creates an entire world
around them in the form of
fashion shows that are more
like performance art or theater.
His fall-winter 2009 show
was a proper clinic on the
Thom Browne aesthetic:
Models dressed as office
workers wore the designers
signature gray cardigan
and trousers in a 1960s
workplace (complete with
individual desks and coat
racks on which they hung
their identical trench coats).
They typed up assignments
on typewriters and even
brought apples to the desk
of their model boss.

D R I E S VA N N O T E N

Spring-Summer 1996

Thumbing his nose at self-serious


fashion shows where models
are instructed not to make eye
contact or smile, Van Noten
hung a disco ball over the statue
of David in Florences Piazzale
Michelangelo and turned his show
into a raucous free-for-all party
where the models bounded in
gangs through the crowd. It felt like
exactly what fashion should be
something you want to participate
in, not watch from the sidelines.

RAF SIMONS

Spring-Summer 1998
Spring-Summer 1999
Fall-Winter 2001

Of his many
contributions to
fashion, Rafs
first few collections,
particularly springsummer 98 (Black
Palms), springsummer 99 (Kinetic
Youth), and fall-winter
01 (Riot Riot Riot),
remain touchstones
for their mastery of
proportion, graphic
imagery, and bristling
energythe kind
Rihanna, Travis Scott,
and Kanye West
channel when they
wear archival pieces
from those collections
today. Simons also
stays far ahead
of the curve with his
locations: Kinetic
Youth was held in front
of an enormous mirror
ball in La Villettes
Cit des Sciences et
de lIndustrie.

88

For Kinetic Youth,


I wanted a space (or,
maybe better, a nonspace)an environment
that felt like a record
cover from Pink
Floyd. A space where
technique and surrealism
come together.
RAF SIMONS

HOLIDAY 2016

GQStyle

FAS H I ON SC H OO L

GUCCI BY TOM FORD

Autumn-Winter 1995 & 2004

When Tom Ford


took the reins at
Gucci, his impact
was immediate.
He slimmed the
suits, cranked up
the sex appeal
(jewel-toned velvet,
anyone?), and
introduced chic
styling touches (like
loafers sans socks)
that still resonate in
menswear. His sense
of showmanship
carried right through

his last Gucci show,


which featured
pole dancers (both
male and female)
flanking the runway.
Instead of coming
out for a quick bow,
Ford capped off
his game-changing
Gucci tenure by
swaggering down
the runway as only
he could: shirt
unbuttoned to midsternum, highball
glass in hand.

COVER STORY
We always knew Kendrick Lamar
could rap. But nobody expected his
album to pimp a butterfly to be a
staggering musical masterwork that
galvanized Grammy voters and protest
marchers alike. The big question
now is: what will k.dot do next?
We got Rick Rubin to ask him.

TOP 5
DEAD
OR
ALIVE
PAOL A
KUDACKI

91

Heres where Kendrick Lamar stands as


2016 comes to a close:
He is currently the best rapper alive.
He has busted his way into the conversation
about the top five MCs of all time, dead or alive.
He is eliciting comparisons to musicians
beyond the borders of rap. Marvin Gaye, Stevie
Wonder: strident artists who shook up the culture
and awakened the consciousness of their day.
Kendricks kept a pretty low profile in 2016.
Yet his 2015 album, To Pimp a Butterflya
multi-layered LP that unfurls slowly over many,
many listensis still percolating, especially as
the single Alright continues to be the unofficial
anthem of nationwide police-brutality protests.
In March of this year, Kendrick also dropped
a surprise album called Untitled Unmastered.
Its really a compilationa loose gathering of
perfectly unpolished songs, death-defying rap
verses, and improvised vamps from the sessions
that birthed Butterfly. (Side note: We might
have LeBron James to thank, at least in part, for
the album. After Kendrick performed an untitled
track at the Grammys, James tweeted at the
CEO of Kendricks label, Anthony Top Dawg
Tiffith, imploring him to release the music.)
Untitled held fans over for a while, but
were starting to get antsy. So the real question
right now isnt where Kendrick belongs in
the firmamentits where hes taking us next.
To tease that out, we asked venerable
producer and noted genius-whisperer Rick Rubin
to interview Kendrick at Rubins own Shangri La
studios in Malibu. The two had never previously
met. They spoke on the lawn of Shangri La
for an hour. Then they walked directly into the
studio and started recording new music.
What follows are excerpts from their
conversation. W I L L W E L C H

RICK R U BIN: What were the inspirations


along the way for youmusically, lyrically, or
philosophicallythat got you to this stage?
K ENDR I C K L A M A R : Oh, man. First off would
have to be how I was raised. The environment.
My father being a complete realist, just in
the streets. And my mother being a dreamer.
It starts there first, before I even heard any
type of melody or lyric. Thats just DNA. Its always
the yin and the yang, the good versus the evil.
And that pushed me toward the music that I love
to listen to. You know, Tupac, Biggie, Jay. Your
usual suspects. These were the people that was
played in my household.

Was the music playing in your house


your choice of music, or was it the music
your parents were listening to?
Definitely my parents. My parents were fairly
young in the city of Compton. So the things that
they playedyou know, that was the hip crowd.
So I was being exposed to all these ideas, from
Big Daddy Kane to Eazy-E to the Bay Area
Too Short, E-40you know, back to Marvin Gaye

92

T H I S PAG E

coat (at Dover Street


Market New York)
$1,140
MP Massimo
Piombo
+
shirt $225
Levis Vintage
Clothing
his own jeans Levis

O P E N I N G PAG E S

coat $8,150
Berluti
+
cardigan $2,930
(for similar style)
Berluti
shirt $310
AMI Alexandre
Mattiussi

and the Isley Brothers. This field of music just


broadened my ideas to come. We never wouldve
thought in a million years that Id be doing it.

So when was that moment?


About three months into my
second LP, To Pimp a Butterfly.

When did jazz find its way into your world?


Its a trip, because I was in the studio one day,
and my guy Terrace Martin noticed something
about the type of sounds that I was picking.
He was like, Man, a lot of the chords that you
pick are jazz-influenced. You dont understand:
You a jazz musician by default. And that just
opened me up. And he just started breaking
down everything, the science, going back to
Miles, Herbie Hancock.

After hearing the first album, when the


second album came, it was completely
unexpected. Like, nobody was expecting
you to make that.
Yeah, definitely. I knew from the jump that
it was gonna be a challenge for my
listeners ear. But if Im challenging myself
in the studio, I want to challenge you
as well. I just went full-fledged with it,
man. We built everything from scratch.

HOLIDAY 2016

GQStyle

This is kind of a funny thing, because Im


going to ask you to project into the
future here. But do you feel like Butterfly
what do you refer to it as?
Butterfly, To Pimp a Butterfly. Its a few things.
Okay, I thought maybe To Pimp. But
lets say the second album. Do you feel
like thats more indicative of where
things will be in the future? Or is it more
like, based on the difference between
the first album and the second album, we
should continue to expect it to change?
Thats a great question.

It may not even be possible to answer,


but tell me your best thoughts.
My best thoughts The best answer I can
give you, um That was me then.
Yeah.
Not to say that it wouldnt be continuous. Itll
always have some type of DNA in my music.
But me, as a person, I grow. Im like a chameleon.
You know? That is a gift and a curse for me.
But more so a gift, because it never puts me in
a box. And my ability to express and still make
the connection wherever I go, that is my high
point. Thats something I pride myself off of.

I think that whats infectious about


your musicthe reason other
people connectis they feel your
connection to it. Probably a lot
of your fans might not have been
into jazz. But they feel your connection
to it, and it inspires them to open
themselves to hear new music that
they might not have heard.
Weve been told to call the consumers
dumb, but theyre not. They know
when its real. And thats something that
I always understoodjust from being
a fan myself.

93

coat $2,295
Burberry
+
denim jacket $840
Tom Ford
silk shirt (right) $550
and loafers $640
Salvatore
Ferragamo
his own jeans Levis
ring David Yurman

When making music, do you ever consider the


audience at all, or is it more just self-expression?
I used to consider the listener. But now Im
in a space where if Im not inspired, I cant really
do the music. I cant feel it. I put in enough
hours to be able to pen a hundred-bar verse on
the spot at any given moment. But for me
to actually feel an idea, it has to come from me.
And a lot of times, I have to block out different
needs and wants just for my own selfish reasons.
But at the end of the day, it comes out where,
whether you like it or not, you know it comes
from a real place. Its gonna feel unapologetic,
uncompromising, and its gonna feel me.
When you say unapologetic, has there ever
been anything that comes up that you
feel like, I dont want to say that on a record?
Thats a great question. I always said to myself,
if I said it on a record, I never retract my
statements. Because its my self-expression,
and you can have your opinions on it, you
can feel a certain type of way, but its how I feel.
And I cant contradict that at all.
Beautiful. And do you ever look back on
anything and feel like youd like to change
any of the things that youve written?
It would be me saying, I want to go deeper.
I shoulda went deeper.
Content-wise, do you feel like you could talk
about anything?
I could talk about anything. That is the challenge
for me. Being able to talk about anything and
make it connect to a listener. Where a listener can
either feel like you or feel like they understand
you. Talking to a little kid and making that feel like
something. Or saying the most brutal, harsh things
on a record, where, you know, society may not
want to hear it. Thats what music is about for me.

Lets talk about Alright for a second.


It has become our generations protest song.
Yeah, yeah.
When you wrote it, did you have that in mind?
Did you think of it as a protest song?
No. You know what? I was sitting on that record
for about six months. The beats Pharrell. And
between my guy Sam Taylor and Pharrell, they
would always be like, Did you do it? When you
gonna do it? I knew it was a great recordI just
was trying to find the space to approach it.
I mean, the beat sounds fun, but theres something
else inside of them chords that Pharrell put
down that feels likeit can be more of a statement
rather than a tune. So with Pharrell and Sam asking
meAm I gonna rock on it? When Im gonna
rock on it?it put the pressure on me to challenge
myself. To actually think and focus on something
that could be a staple in hip-hop. And eventually,
I came across it. Eventually, I found the right
words. You know, it was a lot going on, and still,
to this day, its a lot going on. And I wanted to

96

coat $4,950
Gucci

approach it as more upliftingbut aggressive.


Not playing the victim, but still having that
We strong, you know?
So you had the beat for six months, but you
didnt have any words?
I didnt have any words. P knew that that record
was special. Sam knew that the record was
special. They probably knew it before I even had
a clue. So Im glad that they put that pressure
on me to challenge myself. Cause sometimes,
as a writer, you can have that writers block. And
when you like a sound or an instrumental, you
want to approach it the right way. So you sit on it.
Yeah, the timing is not really in our control. You
cant say, I got this track I like, so Im gonna
write to it now. It comes when its supposed to
come. You just have to be open to it and ready
for it when it comes.
Exactly. I remember hitting P on a text like,
Man, I got the lyrics. And typing the lyrics to
him. Hes like, Thats it.
And did you have a scat over it before?
Yeah, I had a scat.
Did it have that phrasing?
Different cadences. You know?
Hook or not yet?
P had the hook.
Oh, cool. Its a good hook.
Yeah, P had the alright. Thats him on the hook.
And just saying the alright phrasewhat does
We are gonna be alright represent? Im glad
that sparked the idea, cause that song coulda
went a thousand other ways.

Do you consider yourself first and foremost


a rapper?
Yeah, definitely.
Could you imagine making an album in the
future where youre not rapping?
Yeah, I think I got the confidence for it. If I can
master the idea and make the time to approach
it the right way, I think I can push it out.

Its really interesting now, with whats going on


in hip-hop. Its almost like youre a throwback
to when lyrics mattered. So much of hip-hop
today is about vibe and swag and personality,
and less about words. And it sometimes
sounds like even the MC doesnt know what
hes saying on a lot of todays records. So
its interesting to hear the sort of clarity and
depth that you go into lyrically.
The clarity, I got my clarity just studying Eminem
when I was a kid. How I got in the studio was
all just curiosity. I had a love for the music, but it
was curiosity. The day I heard The Marshall
Mathers LP, I was just like, How does that work?
What is he doing? How is he putting his words
together like that? Whats the track under
that? An ad-lib? What is that? And then, Why
dont you go in the studio and see? So I do
that. Then it became, Hows his words cutting
through the beat like that? What is he doing
that Im not doing, now that Im into it? His
time is impeccable. When he wants to fall off
the beat, its impeccable. These are things that,
through experience and time, I had to learn.
Its lucky that you got to learn it so young. It
gave you time to grow so much.
Yeah, definitely13, 14 years old.
Crazy. In one of your lyrics, you mention
meditation. Do you have a meditation practice?
Yeah, man. I have to have at least 30 minutes
to myself. If its not on the daily, every other
day, to just sit back, close my eyes, and absorb
whats going on. You know, the space that
Im in. When you in musicand everybody
knows thisthe years are always cut in half,
because you always have something to do. We
in the studio for four months, that go by.
Now you gotta go on the road for five months,
that go by. Next thing you know, five years
going by and you 29 years old. You know? So
I have to find a way to understand the space
that Im in and how Im feeling at the moment.
Cause if I dont, its gonna zoom. I know. I feel
it. And Im sure you know what Im talking
about. It just goes and then you miss out on
your moment because youre so in the
moment you didnt know the moment was
going on, if that makes sense.

SOMEONE BROUGHT IT TO MY ATTENTION


MUSIC IS ALL I THINK ABOUT. IT BECOMES
ME, IT BECOMES MY LIFE. I BREATHE
IT. I CANT THINK ABOUT NOTHING ELSE.

98

Absolutely. You can get lost. I know some


artists get lost in touring. They become
less relatable. All they know is being onstage
and accolades and hotels. Their reality is
so different from everybody elses reality that
its not so interesting.
I like to call it a cartoon world. And you
know, you can really get lost in it so fast. Its
scary out there.
Howd you get the idea to do the 30 minutes
every day or every other day?
Well, just knowing my schedule and how much
I think about music. Someone brought it
to my attentionits all I think about. And its
nothing wrong with that. It becomes me, it
becomes my life. I breathe it. I cant think
about nothing else. And once I started realizing
that, I know that I have to give it some time
and space every now and then. And that
30 minutes helps. That 30 minutes helps me
to totally zone out and not think about my next
lyric. You know? It gives me a re-start, a
jump start, a refresh. It lets me know why Im
here, doing what Im doing.

Do you have anyone around you who tells


you if somethings not good?
For sure. Man, Id be head over heels right
now if I didnt have a certain type of grounding.
Family, a team that has my best interests
not only in music but as a person. Everyone
thats around me has been with me since
I was 15 years old. I know well all grow as people,
and Ill outgrow some people and different
natures, but I hope that these same people will
continue to grow with me. Cause I cant stop.
You know? I cant stop.
Do you have any idea of the direction
thats coming next, as far as writing goes,
or is it too soon?
Its soon. I have ideas, though. I have ideas
and I have a certain approach. But I wanna see
what it manifests. I wanna put all the paint
on the wall and see where that goes. Maybe
you can help me with that.
Im down. Cool. For Butterfly, did you record
more songs than the ones on the album?
Yeah, definitely. I have so many floating
around24 bars, 16 bars, hooks and choruses
and bridges and ideas. References that
I had in mind for people to sing.
Beautiful.... Anything else you want to
talk about?
Lets check out this space, man! Im in
a creative zone! [laughs]
Should we go inside and record?
Exactly.
For video of Kendrick Lamars summit with
Rick Rubin in Malibu, go to G Q S T Y L E . C O M .

HOLIDAY 2016

GQStyle

coat $11,500
(made-to-order)
Dolce & Gabbana
styled by mobolaji dawodu.
hair by whitney alford.
grooming by hee soo kwon
for malin+goetz. set design
by ward robinson for
wooden ladder. produced
by portfolio one.

THE EXPERIENTIAL GIFT

SPEND THE NIGHT IN

architecturally significant homes arent just for coee-table books. Theyre meant
to be lived in. By you. Even if just for a few inspiring nights. Here are six design escapes
that will stimulate your mind and change the way you vacation. by Brad Dunning

A DESIGN SHRINE
101

few years ago I rethought the whole


idea of a vacation. And I realized that, for me, a holiday should be about more than a break
from workaday responsibilities. It should make my fantasies come true.
If youre a Morrissey fan and you go see him play in Manchester, youll remember it for the
rest of your life. Every baseball fan worth his salted peanuts has been to Wrigley Field. Me, I like
design and architecture. Sure, I can beeline to the third floor of the Museum of Modern Art or
trek through the woods to Fallingwater with all the other tourists, but those are relatively fleeting
and crushingly communal experiences. I want to be singularly immersed in my own poetic and
inspirational visitation. I want to see and study architecture from every angle, at every time of the
day: sleep in it, eat in it, draw it, and photograph it. Cosset it. Have sex in it. Have it all to myself
and experience the theories of legendary architects in 3-D. Thats my kind of vacation.
Perhaps you are the same. If so, we hereby present legendary design you can rent and inhabit
for as long as your AmEx limit allows. The majority of these listings hardly cost more than a decent
big-city hotel room, and some quite less. Every one will enlarge your world.

YOU CANT GO WRONG


WITH FRANK LLOYD WRIGHT
Wright is architectures Picasso,
a genius and an original. His custom
houses were sometimes quixotic
yet always shockingly inventive and
hugely influentialvisit them all
when you can. More than a dozen
can now be rented through websites
like Airbnb and VRBO or their own
private sites. The living room of
the Penfield House in Ohio (seen on
our opening pages and rentable at
penfieldhouse.com) is one of Wrights
most transparent and dramatic
designs, essentially a glass box, and
is highlighted with a stunning
suspended staircase. (From $275 a night)

102

HOLIDAY 2016

You dont often


think of Cape Cod
as a bastion of
modern architecture,
but lovely and
inviting examples
dot the rugged,
secluded landscape.
Three houses
owned by the
Cape Cod Modern
House Trust are now
available for rental,
and my favorite
is the Hatch Cottage
(Jack Hall, 1962,
pictured at right).
Built for an editor
of The Nation,
its quite smalljust
three rooms and
one bathbut it
has an unparalleled
setting perched a
little off the ground,
affording a bay
view and access to
a mostly vacant beach
and numerous trails.
Crisp, modest, warm,
and sophisticated, it
embodies modernism
at its most lifeaffirming and is a
beacon for those who
aspire to a Thoreaulike experience.
There are two
other houses for rent
in the trust, the Kugel/
Gips House (Charlie
Zehnder, 1970) and
the Paul Weidlinger
House (1953), both
enviable statements
of midcentury ideas
cradled in nature.
Youll have little
to do in any of them
except enjoy the
scenery and relax,
so bring a pile
of books. If you
truly must get out,
the big cultural
attraction might be
the Wellfleet DriveIn movie theater.
(From $2,750 a week)

GQStyle

T H E S E PA G E S : S E E A D D I T I O N A L C R E D I T S .

CAPE COD
FOR MODERN
LOVERS

104

HOLIDAY 2016

GQStyle

THE WORLDS MOST


STYLISH DORMITORY
Responsible for so much of the
modern furniture, typography,
and architecture we love today,
the Bauhaus school in Germany
was as influential on the world
of design as the Beatles were on
20th-century music.
From 1925 to 1931, students
there were educated in architecture,
industrial design, metalworking,
painting, photography, and
even color theory and weaving.
And then, in 1933, the school was
closed under pressure from the
Nazi regime, which considered
it a threat due to its emphasis
on individualism, creativity, and
intellectualism.
There were three campuses
during its lifetime, but founder
Walter Gropius designed the
largest one, in Dessau, where
you can now spend the night
in a dorm room. Its an easy 90minute train ride from Berlins
Zoologischer stationand upon
arrival in Dessau, a pleasant
15-minute walk through the quiet
little town over to the campus.
The restored Bauhaus Building
is one of the greatest and most
faithful architectural restorations
I have ever seen, absolutely
perfect. I swear to God, the
canteen looks like an Apple Store.
The rooms are ridiculously
affordable and spotlessly clean,
with bare walls and hard floors,
yet each also has a beautifully
designed (of course) bed and
furniture by Bauhaus designers
and illustrious alumni. Communal
bathrooms are down the hall.
(From $39 a night)

105

TIME-TRAVEL TO
70s CALIFORNIA AT
ITS MOST DRAMATIC
No place on earth finds itself more squarely
in the crosshairs of our cultural Zeitgeist
than Sea Ranch on Californias SonomaMendocino Coast. The Golden State seems
to be having more influence in popular
culture than ever before, and ditto for the
1970s. Sea Ranch epitomizes both.
This planned community, with a hotel,
condos, and freestanding homes, was started
in the mid-1960s, but for me the Sea Ranch
lookweathered wood-plank exteriors, angular
profiles, cane-seat Breuer chairs, chromeframed Equus posters, and Sheila Hicks textile
wall hangingsis decidedly rooted in the
70s. Sea Ranch is post-hippie, academically
approved, moneyed-up, groovy NorCal style.
And the big extra ingredient is that Sea
Ranch is located, duh, right on the rugged
Pacific coastline, all windswept and lonely,
dramatic and Rod McKuenly lovely. Almost
every house has an enviable view, and most
have the requisite period-perfect hot tub.
Squint and Steve McQueen and Ali MacGraw
are tearing up the beach in an orange dune
buggy and their Persols.
Its about 100 miles north of San Francisco,
with famed vineyards and breweries nearby.
Bring your own cable-knit turtleneck.
(From under $200 a night)

106

GQStyle

HOLIDAY 2016

107

GQStyle

WORSHIP AT
THE ALTAR OF
LE CORBUSIER
Gaze at any modern
building and youll
see breadcrumbs
leading back to
Le Corbusiers desk.
His continuing
oracular authority
verges on the
sacred, so why
not stay in a
Corbusier-designed
convent? Rooms
at the Convent at
La Tourette (Lyon,
France) are small
and monastic, but
the structure remains
a masterpiece
of inspiration,
introspection, and
rejuvenation. Its
your chance to
get closer to God
and Le Corbusier.
Or are they one
and the same?
Alternatively,
you can stay in
Htel Le Corbusier
(Marseille, France),
arguably Le
Corbusiers most
famous creation.
Its part of La Cit
Radieuse (The
Radiant City),
which was to be
the prototype for
a new wave of
postwar housing
a nine-story
building (pictured
at right and top
left), with one floor
of shops and a
rooftop garden, that
is one of the most
famous and most
photographed
modern architectural
spaces in the world.
Cradle yourself
in a monument; its
an erection of the
senses. (Convent
at La Tourette, from
$57 a night; Htel
Le Corbusier,
from $89 a night)

The phoenix-like revival of Palm Springs


has been well documented and lovingly
appreciated. The houses and architecture
that were abandoned like bones at a
barbecue during the 1980s and 90s roared
back into vogue (and Vogue) as the world
re-discovered midcentury modernism.
As one of the key players in the Palm Springs
School, architect Donald Wexler created
sublimely simple pavilions of glass and often
steel. One of his most luxurious commissions
was the Dinah Shore Estate (1964), smackdab in the middle of what could be called the
Beverly Hills of Palm Springsthe neighborhood
of Old Las Palmas, a setting of flat labyrinthine
streets and high-walled estates. Quiet and
peaceful, perfect for bicycling and projectileweeping house envy.
Did Leonardo DiCaprio buy this important
home simply to have a party pad during
Coachella? Maybe. It seems to be about the only
time he is seen around town. Still, its hard to
separate the DiCaprio pussy mojo from your
experience here. Its sexy as hell being in that hot
sun and tranquil pool, and under those stars at
night. If you cant get laid in this house, my friend,
something is truly amiss. (From $3,750 a night)

110

TKTKTK SEE ADDITIONAL CREDITS.

CHANNEL YOUR INNER DI CAPRIO


(WHILE PARTYING AT HIS HOUSE)

GQStyle

HOLIDAY 2016

111

LOOK BOOK

DARIA KOBAYASHI RITCH

B U B
B L I
Up
N G
Thankfully, the coolest coats of the season are also the warmest: bubble coats.
Thats because designers have transformed them from giant arctic sleeping bags to
oversize statements of style. To prove it, we took model rose bertram and her soccerstar boyfriend, gregory van der wiel, to a peak above zermatt, switzerland.
112

HOLIDAY 2016

GQStyle

Introducing
the Peak-Lapel
Bubble Topcoat
coat $1,095 Z Zegna
+
pants
Brunello Cucinelli
boots Rag & Bone
beanie Michael Kors

A Coat That
Will Elevate
Your Commute
coat $1,260 Herno
+
shirt Missoni
leggings
Calvin Klein
Collection
boots Dsquared2
beanie
Brunello Cucinelli
ON HER

coat (mens) $3,005


Visvim
+
leggings Aether
boots Moncler
helicopter
Air Zermatt

O P E N I N G PAG E S

coat $2,395
Maison Margiela
+
tank top
Calvin Klein
Underwear
leggings
Calvin Klein
Collection
beanie Michael Kors
sunglasses Ray-Ban
his necklaces
Miansai (top)
Renvi
ON HER

coat (mens)
Dsquared2
bathing suit
Stella McCartney
boots Rag & Bone
socks throughout
Brunello Cucinelli
sunglasses Dior
115

Guaranteed
Collectors Item:
The Raf Simons
Bubble Coat
ON HER

coat (mens) $2,554


Raf Simons
+
bikini Missoni
boots
Off-White c/o
Virgil Abloh
her necklaces
Cartier (on top)
Louis Vuitton
bracelets and
silver ring
Cartier
watch
Rolex
ON HIM

pants
Brunello
Cucinelli
beanie
The Elder
Statesman
sunglasses
Ray-Ban
necklaces,
from top
Miansai
Renvi

117

THE TOM BRADY


& GISELE OF
THE SOCIAL-MEDIA
GENERATION
Rose Bertram and her
soccer-star boyfriend,
Gregory van der Wiel, didnt
invent the model-athlete
super-couple, but they
are revolutionizing it. They
are the quintessential
multi-hyphenate hustlers,
harnessing the powers
of social media to turn
themselves into the global
#brands of the future.
On Instagram alone, they
have more than 1.5 million
combined followers, and they
freely share snapshots from
their daily grinds, much of
which is spent in humdrum
places like private jets, epic
cliffside retreats, and, of
course, the gym. Were a
couple, and every couple
thats in love wants to show
that, Bertram says of their
capacity for sharing, although
she admits that one downside
is that guys are constantly
trying to slide into her DMs.
(Good luck with that, dudes.)
Being the global couple
of the future also means
that both Bertram and Van
der Wiel have side hustles
shes currently launching
an eponymous label;
hes a founder of the threeyear-old lifestyle brand
Balrsomething to help
grow their profiles and
keep them busy when theyre
not occupied with soccer
games and photo shoots.
Bertram is Belgian, and
Van der Wiel is Dutch, but to
keep things interesting, the
two moved to Istanbul over
the summer, where Van der
Wiel is a defender for a local
team, Fenerbahe. Its
cool to be here in a new city
with new people, Bertram
says. But with her profile on
the rise and projects lined
up into next year, its safe to
assume shell mostly be
on the go. Want to go with
her? Just give her a follow.
MAX BERLINGER

ROSE BERTRAM

@rose_bertram

GREGORY VAN DER WIEL

@gregoryvanderwiel

This Ones a
Bubble Coat
Bomber Jacket
Hybrid
coat $3,995
Ralph Lauren
+
pants and boots
Ralph Lauren
beanie
The Elder Statesman
sunglasses
(opposite page)
Bottega Veneta

119

Add a Fur
Hood for More
Warmthand
Baller Bonus
Points
coat $6,745
Brunello Cucinelli
+
cardigan
Brunello Cucinelli

If Your Girl
Wants to Steal
Your Cool New
Bubble Coat
Let Her
coat (mens) $6,295
Bally
+
bathing suit Etro
boots
Brunello Cucinelli
beanie
Moncler Grenoble

121

This One Will


Get You Extra
Attention
(the Good Kind)
coat $4,800
Dior Homme
+
pants Michael Kors
boots
Maison Margiela
hat Stetson
ON HER

bodysuit
Off-White c/o
Virgil Abloh
boots
Stella McCartney
styled by mobolaji
dawodu. hair and makeup
by susana sanchez for
balmain hair couture and
dior makeup. produced
by kiku xicoira for bcn
skies productions.

122

PARADISE
AT 12,000 FEET
Our location for this
shoot? The peak at
Matterhorn Glacier
Paradise, a breathtaking
mountaintop located
a few steep gondola rides
above the postcardperfect town of Zermatt,
Switzerland. Down in
Zermatt, there are no
gas engines allowed,
which keeps the smog
down and the views
crystal clear. Up top,
you feel like you can
reach out and touch the
dizzying Matterhorn,
just one peak over. And
best of all, theres
skiing all year around
here. (Believe it or
not, we took these
photographs in August.)
123

Louis Vuitton
Zigzag Scarf
This oversize scarf by
designer Kim Jones
will be identifiable as
Louis Vuitton only to
people who really know.
To everyone else, its
just the biggest, coolest,
warmest, and most
impressive statement
scarf money can buy.

$2,860

FASHION
Its not about labels and
logos. These 11 designer
pieces have the right
mix of hype, cred, and
design to make them
proud staples of your
wardrobeand to make
people think Damn!
when you walk into a
room. And since tearing
into the packaging is
half the fun, we threw in
the boxes and bags as well.
ARNAUD PY VKA

125

Brunello Cucinelli
Topcoat
The winter piece youll
get the most wear out
of (your topcoat). Designed
by one of Italys finest
and noblest suitmakers
(Mr. Cucinelli). Made
with the worlds most
luxurious winter-tailoring
fabric (cashmere).

$4,745

126

Missoni Knit
Sweater
The genius of Missonis
kaleidoscopic knit
sweaters is that they dont
need a logobecause
no other brand on earth
has the means to make
them. Let your drunk
uncle wear the Rudolph
the Red-Nosed Reindeer
sweater. You wear this.

$1,275

Bottega Veneta
Crepe-Soled
Chelsea Boots in
Barolo Suede
Crepe-soled Chelseas
have been in heavy
rotation among stylish
dudes for a few seasons
now. Bottega makes
the Platonic version, and
this unique shade of
suede will keep you from
getting confused with
the guys in knockos.

$820

128

Cartier Love
Bracelet
Every time we see a
celebrity with actually
dope styleor any
other man of wealth
and tasteguess which
bracelet hes wearing.
Note that it comes with
the screwdriver you
need to put it on and take
it o. (When we get ours,
were never taking it o.)

$6,300 (at the Cartier


Fifth Avenue Mansion)

Herms Playing Cards


Herms is deservedly famous for its leather pieces,
but were nerds for its ridiculously luxurious home
goods. Like ashtrays with hand-painted tigers. Or
these silver-tipped playing cards. For best results, use
them. If your cards are too sti, you might be, too.

$100 (single deck)


$140 (double deck)

Rick Owens
Calfskin Jacket
When Rick Owens started
making leather jackets
in the 90s, they quickly
became essential to
the fashion-obsessed. And
soon a cult developed
around the guy, one to rival
any rock stars following.
Try this jacket on once and
youll either buy it on the
spot or start saving up for it.

$2,343

131

Gucci Horsebit
Loafers
Frankly, horsebits have
always been a status
symbol. Whats new here
is the slightly pointier,
more elegant and fashiony
silhouette that Guccis
white-hot designer,
Alessandro Michele, gave
to his houses most
iconic piece of menswear.
(While he was at it,
he made the packaging
more glorious, too.)

$695

Goyard Duel Bag


These days it takes more
than cash to distance
yourself from the pack.
Which explains why
Goyard is the luxury
trunkmaker with all the
heat right now. You cant
buy this duffel online, so
track it down at one of
the brands boutiques in
Paris, London, Milan,
or New York City. Sit it on
top of your roller bag at
the airport. Feel like a king.

$4,990

132

The Elder Statesman Cashmere Blanket


Thanks to social media, we are now in the era of
status symbols for the home. And while this hand-dyed
cashmere blanket will light up your likes, its the
cotton-candy softness that makes it so sweet. Watching
Monday Night Football will never be the same.

$5,995

134

Vetements Sexual
Fantasies Hoodie
There are rare occasions
when hype is deserved
and resistance is futile.
Maybe it was the frenzy
over designer Demna
Gvasalias high-concept
streetwear. Maybe it
was seeing Frank Ocean
wearing it. Either
way, our desire to own
this hoodie is as raw
and direct as the words
printed across the front.

$770 (at Dover Street


Market New York)
styled by emilie meinadier.
prop styling by sinan
sigic. produced by johanna
scher at workingirl.

135

JAZZ GIANTS
Using nothing more than simple instruments and an audacious
will to improvise, these ten giants of jazz have taken us
places no man has gone before. And theyre still here, still playing
and always dressed to kill. What a time to be alive.

The
Explorers
Club
by
Nick Marino

CHRISTIAN WEBER
136

HOLIDAY 2016

GQStyle

Ron Carter
AGE :

79

LIFE ON A STRING:

A graduate of the
Miles Davis Sideman
University, Carter
still tours and gigs
around the world,
leading his bands on
the same upright
bass hes been using
since 1960. Its on
all these records, he
says. I maintain it. Its
like having a Bentley.
THAT HERRINGBONE SUIT:

It was designed by
his wife, the former
model Quintell
Williams-Carter.
suit (both pages),
his own
+
shirt $345
Ermenegildo Zegna
hat $275
JJ Hat Center
scarf Kiton
pocket square
Polo Ralph Lauren
shoes, his own
Fratelli Rossetti

Pharoah
Sanders
AGE :

76

M U S I CA L L A N E :

A freethinking astral
traveler and spiritual
gangster, hes the
ocial saxophonist of
your souls awakening.
His definitive song
may be The Creator
Has a Master Plan, a
32-minute vision quest
that journeys from
moments of pastoral
beauty to demonpurging squalljust
like life itself.
THE LOOK: I got tired of
wearing suits and ties,
he says. I decided
I would look another
kind of way.
coat $2,490
Ermenegildo
Zegna Couture
+
sweater $345
Sandro
sunglasses Krewe
fez from Nigeria

138

bracelet and ring,


vintage

I WOULDNT GO
TO WORK WITHOUT
A SUIT. IT SETS THE
WHOLE TONE FOR ME.
Ron Carter

I THINK STYLE IS AN INNATE THING.


SOME PEOPLE HAVE ITOR NOT.
Charles Lloyd

140

Charles Lloyd
AGE :

78

Between
1989 and 2015, Lloyd
recorded his beautiful
and painterly playing
for art-music label
ECM. But hell always
be best known as one of
the first jazz artists
to sell a million copies,
with the 1967 live set
Forest Flower.

HIS SOUND:

M O D E L I N G S I D E H U ST L E :

Yohji Yamamoto has


made a lot of clothes
for me and invited me
to model in Paris and
in Tokyo. We share an
aesthetic sensibility.
blazer $2,395
shirt $1,045
pants $2,095
Giorgio Armani
+
vintage beret
Herms
sunglasses
Melissa Eyewear
rings, vintage

Wayne
Shorter
AGE : 83
The sax he
played in his mid1960s prime was
as elegant and cutting
as a samurai sword.
The work included a
torrent of solo material
(Shorter recorded
at least six albums
between 1964 and 65)
and a coveted position
in Miles Daviss blockrocking second great
quintet (with his buddy
Herbie on piano).
O N S I G H T: Miles used
to say, I can tell
whether somebody
can play or not by
what they wear and
how they move in it.
shirt and pants,
vintage
+
necklace
Loree Rodkin
LEG ACY:

ring and top bracelet


David Yurman
bottom bracelet
Bottega Veneta
watch Zenith

Herbie
Hancock
AG E :

76

GREATEST HITS:

He was a key figure


in jazzs midcentury
heyday, then went
platinum with the 1973
fusion record Head
Hunters, then embraced
hip-hop on the smash
1983 single Rockit, and
then won the Album
of the Year Grammy in
2008 for a set of Joni
Mitchell covers (with his
buddy Wayne on sax).
SHOP HARD: I dont go
shopping that often, he
says. When I go out,
I will get a lot of stuff
cause I know Im not
gonna do this again for
another year and a half.
So I will just get
everything that I could
conceivably want.
Spend that fortune!
coat $2,400
Jeffrey Rdes
+
shirt $245 Sandro
vintage pants Etro
hat (on knee) $120
Stetson Cloth
Hats & Caps
shoes, his own
Emporio Armani
watch Chopard
ring David Yurman
sunglasses L.G.R

143

Chick Corea
AG E :

75

A LITTLE BIT OF EVERYTHING:

Nominated for a
staggering 64
Grammys, Corea has
embraced the
possibilities of both
acoustic and electric
piano, dabbled in
childrens and Latin
and classical music,
and even recorded a
Christmas song with
John Travolta and
Olivia Newton-John.
FIT TER, HAPPIER:

About five years


ago I went on a
plant-based diet, and
I took off a hundred
pounds. You can
probably find pictures
on the Internet of
me when I was 250
Im now down to 140.
I came down from
a 44 waist to a 33 waist.
None of my clothes
fit me anymore;
I had to get rid of them
all. It felt so good.
jacket $2,495
Ralph Lauren
+
scarf $175
Paul Smith

144

Roy Ayers
AGE :

76

Credit Ayers
with putting the vibes
in vibraphone. Mashing
together jazz, funk,
and disco boogie, hes
the master of 1970sbachelor-pad grooviness
that holds its edge.

M R . S M O OT H :

CA R E E R H I G H L I G H T:

Ayers still believes his


slinky hit Everybody
Loves the Sunshine
is the best thing hes
ever doneand
Dr. Dre apparently
agrees. The song
made the soundtrack
to last years Straight
Outta Compton biopic.
coat $3,528
Louis Vuitton
+
sweater $2,895
pants $1,025
Giorgio Armani
fedora $240
Worth & Worth by
Orlando Palacios
necklaces
Degs & Sal (top)
Renvi
ring David Yurman
bracelet
John Hardy

146

IM JUST
A TRAVELING
MUSICIAN
ENJOYING THE
GOOD ROAD.
Roy Ayers

JAZZ IS ONE BIG BAND


An abridged guide to the many stellar collaborations
between the giants in this portfolioand beyond

PH

FR

ART DAVIS
ELVIN JONES

PH
SA A R O
ND AH
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Karma

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AV

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Featuring

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Featuring

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Featuring

MIROSLAV VITOUS

JOHN McLAUGHLIN
AIRTO MOREIRA
SONNY SHARROCK
MIROSLAV VITOUS

I CK C O R E A

Featuring
JACK DeJOHNET TE
EDDIE GOMEZ
TONY WILLIAMS

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Sin

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Featuring

CHICK COREA

COY TYNE

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TONY WILLIAMS

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JOHN McLAUGHLIN, JOE Z AWINUL

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Featuring

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Featuring

HERBIE
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FREDDIE HUBBARD

Featuring
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SONNY SHARROCK

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Featuring
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Featuring

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TONY WILLIAMS

l t ra n e Ti me

HOLIDAY 2016

GQStyle

McCoy
Tyner
AGE :

77

LEGACY:

A heartbreaking
balladeer who
defines sophistication
on the piano, he
also spent years as
a sideman to the
adventurous John
Coltrane, playing
on My Favorite
Things and Tranes
transcendent
masterpiece,
A Love Supreme.
suit $6,395
sweater $595
Ermenegildo Zegna
+
watch Chopard
ring and link bracelet
John Hardy
cuff bracelet
Le Gramme
NE X T PAGE

sunglasses
Dita Eyewear
socks Pantherella
loafers, vintage

150

Cecil Taylor
AGE :

87

P L AY I N G ST Y L E :

Taylor approaches
the piano the way
Jackson Pollock
approached a canvas:
with a wild sense
of improvisational
abandon that
borders on violence.
MUSIC (AND FASHION)

Never mind
that hes pushing
90. When Taylor
performed this year
at the Whitney
Museum, he wore
a chocolate beanie,
ivory shoes, and a
satin jacket printed
with swirls of regal
purple and gold.
suit jacket $1,198
vest $598
pants $398
John Varvatos
+
shirt $195
PS by Paul Smith
AS ART:

necklaces, from top


Tiffany & Co.
Miansai
rings Cartier
vintage cap
Burberry

TKTKTK SEE ADDITIONAL CREDITS.

bracelet and
glasses, vintage

152

Roy Haynes
AG E :

91

PL AYED WITH:

Everyone youve ever


heard of. For starters:
Sonny Rollins, Stan
Getz, Thelonious
Monk, Eric Dolphy,
and Sarah Vaughan.
O N E O F O N E : I was
having my clothes
made at a young age,
says Haynes, who
also drummed with
saxophone godhead
Charlie Parker back
in the 1940s. Even
before I had a good
gig, I was having stu
made. Some people
would come to my
gig to see what I was
wearingto see
what the little M.F.
was wearing.
blazer $2,150
Caruso
+
turtleneck $375
Boglioli
sunglasses Krewe
pants and ring,
vintage
styled by mobolaji
dawodu. for additional
credits, see page 163.

154

WINTER MUSIC

SPEAKER
MELTERS
Ten Crucial LPs from the Giants
in These Pages (and One from the
Greatest Bandleader of All)
by Hank Shteamer

C E C I L T A Y L OR

Silent Tongues, 1975

Cecil Taylors reputation as the


granddaddy of free jazz can
make you think hes out to scare
audiences away. But as this jawdropping live solo set proves,
on a good night, he was actually
one of the great crowd-pleasers
in American music. On the two
marathon tracks that open the
album (the first one alone exceeds
18 minutes), he sounds like a
player piano gone rogue, zipping
madly between low-register
thuds and lightning-fast highend runs. Take a cue from
the hooting, hollering Montreux
audience on Silent Tongues:
This is avant-garde party music.

156

HOLIDAY 2016

GQStyle

CH A R L E S L LOY D

Forest Flower, 1967

Forest Flower changed everything


for Charles Lloyd. Before this live
album became a surprise millionselling hit, he was a soulful jazz saxist
following in Coltranes footsteps;
afterward, he was sharing bills with
Janis and Jimi and turning up on
Doors and Beach Boys records. But
theres no pandering to pop here:
On several lengthy tracks, Lloyd and
his band of fellow future stars
including pianist Keith Jarrett and
drummer Jack DeJohnetteuse
breezy themes as launchpads into
sky-kissing post-bop ecstasy.

ROY H AY N E S

Out of the Afternoon, 1962

Every single track on this album kicks off with a brief,


impeccably cool drum intro, a not-so-subtle reminder
that Haynes is the man in charge. Yet Out of the Afternoon
offers way more than just cocky shot callingwhat
makes the album endure is its hip eccentricity. From its
mesmerizingly weird cover (was it really necessary to
lug all that gear into the woods?) to its inspired choice of
personnel (especially the blind multi-instrumental virtuoso
Roland Kirk, who could play two horns at once), Afternoon
reaches for a sound just beyond the hard-bop norm.

P H A ROA H S A N D E R S

Karma, 1969

The pinnacle of the dashiki era in jazz, and the blueprint for new-school
revivalists like Kamasi Washington, Karma is a heady blend of soothing
and searing sounds. It seems somehow designed not to be heard
so much as felt. On the half-hour album centerpiece The Creator Has
a Master Plan, Sanders juxtaposes New Age atmosphericsthink
flutes, shakers, and gospel-ish lead vocals from the yodel-prone Leon
Thomaswith volcanic climaxes that hark back to his time spent
scandalizing the squares as a member of John Coltranes legendarily
gritty late-period bands. Karma is where jazz went full Woodstock.

HERBIE
H A N COCK

Head Hunters, 1973

I was tired of
everything being
heavy, Herbie
Hancock once
explained of Head
Hunters. He may
have lifted the mood
on this milestone,
but the albums
fierce grooves are
anything but soft.
From the buttmoving synth strut
of Chameleon
to the remake of
Hancocks early-60s
track Watermelon
Man (featuring
an unforgettable
whistle-like hook that
percussionist Bill
Summers achieved
by blowing into a
beer bottle), the
platinum smash made
jazz as danceable
as mainstream funk.

158

I WAS TIRED OF EVERYTHING


BEING HEAVY. I WANTED
TO PLAY SOMETHING LIGHTER.
Herbie Hancock

HOLIDAY 2016

GQStyle

WAY N E S HO R T E R

Footprints Live!, 2002

T H E S E PA G E S : S E E A D D I T I O N A L C R E D I T S .

Wayne Shorter cut a string of classic


solo albums in the mid-60s while
he was still working with Miles Davis.
But for our money, his greatest
chapter as a bandleader didnt begin
until 2000, when he recorded an
electrifying live set that infused key
tunes from his back catalog with
an almost punk energy. On tracks
like Masqualero, Shorter sounds
like hes holding on for dear life
and loving every second of it.

MCCOY T Y N E R

The Real McCoy, 1967

By the time the great pianist McCoy Tyner


left John Coltranes famed quartet in 1965, he
was getting obscured by the saxophonists
increasingly wild and furious sound. So its not
surprising that Tyner had something to prove
on The Real McCoy, the next record he made
as a leader. With help from Ron Carter, Trane
drummer Elvin Jones, and edgy tenor giant Joe
Henderson, Tyner tears into five dramatic
originalsperfect tracks to reach for when you
need an early-morning rush of aural adrenaline.

159

M I L E S DAV I S

Miles Smiles, 1967

If the ultimate bandleader was smiling during the


recording of this mid-career masterpiece, its
because he was leading a crew staffed with young
radicals, three of whom are in this magazine
Carter, Hancock, and Shorterplus the late drum
prodigy Tony Williams, whose job description
was to knock their boxing-obsessed middleaged boss on his ass every chance they got. The
otherworldly calm of 1959s Kind of Blue is
nowhere to be found here; on Shorter originals
like Orbits and Dolores, the band sounds
hungry, wired, and hell-bent on musical liberation.

C H I CK COR E A

Now He Sings,
Now He Sobs, 1968

Chick Corea had


plenty of sideman
experience with
Herbie Mann and
Stan Getz (and one
solo record to his
name) when he
recorded Now He
Sings, Now He Sobs,
but nothing in his
prior work couldve
prepped listeners for
this wide-ranging
monster. The album
takes Bill Evanss
idea of the fully
democratic piano
trio and turbocharges
it: Corea, bassist
Miroslav Vitous, and
drummer Roy Haynes
are three hyperconfident all-stars
pushing one
another to the brink.

NOTHING IN COREAS
PRIOR WORK COULDVE
PREPPED LISTENERS
FOR THIS WIDER ANGING MONSTER.

ROY AYERS

Stoned Soul Picnic, 1968

Before he was playing full-on


funk, providing mountains of
raw material for sample-hungry
beatmakers, Roy Ayers was
making supremely fly chill-jazz
soundtracks for the blissed-out
and baked. Look past Stoned
Soul Picnics poppy title track and
youll find a gently trippy set,
filled with fluttering flute, heavenly
horn arrangements, and the leaders
sparkling vibraphone. When the
party is in full swing, youll want
later Ayers like Red, Black & Green.
When its time for the comedown,
have yourself a Picnic.

R O N CA R T E R

Where?, 1961
PLUS: Alone Together
with Jim Hall, 1973
The Low End Theory
with A Tribe Called Quest, 1991

Ready to
start listening?
In collaboration with our friends at
Amoeba Music, weve bundled
an exclusive set of LPs representing
every artist in our Jazz Giants
portfolio. Its 11 albums in total, all on
high-fidelity vinyl, and available at
amoeba.com/gqstyle. At checkout,
enter the code GQSTYLE15
to receive 15 percent off the
retail price of $305.78.

GQStyle

HOLIDAY 2016

Ron Carter has played bass on so


many classics by other artists that
his own recordsdozens of them,
stretching back more than five
decadescan be easy to overlook.
If youre just diving in, start at the
beginning: Carters outside-the-box
1961 debut, on which he doubles
on cello, duets with fellow bassist
George Duvivier, and trades licks
with multi-instrumental radical
Eric Dolphy. Beyond his era-defining
60s work with Miles Davis, the best
place to sample Carters collaborative
side might be on 1973s Alone
Together, the first of several duet LPs
he made with late guitar legend
Jim Hall. The albums got a low-key

veneer but tons of swagger below


the surface. And dont forget
A Tribe Called Quests 1991 track
Verses from the Abstract, off
the groups aptly titled landmark
The Low End Theory, which pairs
Q-Tips unflappable rhymes with
the bass masters sinfully funky
support: Yeah yeah yeah, this one
goes out to my man, thanks a
lot, Ron Carter on the bass, yes, my
man Ron Carter is on the bass

161

162

AL AN GWIZDOWSKI

HOLIDAY 2016

GQStyle

Additional Credits
Page 20. Clockwise from top left:
Stuart Tyson; Joss McKinley (2);
Josh Dickinson; Bjarne Jonasson;
Joss McKinley; Josh Dickinson;
Joss McKinley (2); Ian Dickson/
Redferns/Getty Images
Page 30. Clockwise from top:
courtesy of Patrizia Montanari
and RTH Shop; Alan Gwizdowski;
courtesy of Paola Kudacki;
courtesy of Adolfo Doring
Page 49. Tods and PS by Paul
Smith: Stuart Tyson/prop stylist:
Jill Edwards at Halley Resources.
All other photographs: Josh
Dickinson/prop stylist: Trina Ong
at Halley Resources.
Page 52. LHomme Prada and
Rgime des Fleurs Water/Wood:
Stuart Tyson/prop stylist:
Jill Edwards at Halley Resources.
All other photographs: Josh
Dickinson/prop stylist: Trina Ong
at Halley Resources.
Page 62. Ian Dickson/Redferns/
Getty Images
Pages 6667. From left: courtesy
of NOAH; Chris Barham/ANL/
REX/Shutterstock; courtesy of
Acne Studios
Page 68. From left: Adriano
Alecchi/Mondadori Portfolio/
Getty Images; Sergio del
Grande/Mondadori Portfolio/
Getty Images
Page 69. Top and bottom:
courtesy of Missoni (5).
Right: courtesy of The Elder
Statesman (3).
Page 70. Clockwise from top
left: courtesy of Acne Studios (4)
Page 71. Clockwise from top left:
courtesy of Acne Studios; Jorge
Monedero/Camera Press/Redux;
courtesy of Acne Studios (2)
Page 72. Courtesy of NOAH (3)
Page 73. Top and bottom:
courtesy of NOAH (3). Right:
courtesy of Drakes (3).
Pages 8081. Courtesy of
Prada (3)
Page 82. Clockwise from top:
Bertrand Rindoff Petroff/Getty
Images; Maria Valentino/MCV
Photo; Pascal Rossignol/Reuters
Page 83. Top: courtesy of
Owenscorp (3)
Page 84. Left: Roxanne Lowit
Page 85. Top: courtesy of hl-art.
Bottom: courtesy of Jean Paul
Gaultier (3).
Page 86. Clockwise from top
left: courtesy of Armani;
firstVIEW (2)
Page 87. Bottom: firstVIEW (3)
Page 88. Clockwise from top
right: courtesy of Dries Van
Noten (3); Maria Valentino/MCV
Photo; courtesy of Raf Simons (2)

Page 89. Top left: firstVIEW.


Bottom: courtesy of Dan
Lecca/Cond Nast Archive (3).
Pages 100101. Courtesy of
Eric Hanson and the Louis
Penfield House
Page 102. Richard Brine/
VIEW
Page 103. Courtesy of
Antoine Lorgnier and Cape
Cod Modern House Trust (2)
Pages 104105. From left:
courtesy of The Bauhaus
Dessau Foundation;
Marcus Hoehn/Laif/Redux
Pages 106107.
Courtesy of Jim Alinder
from the book The Sea Ranch:
Fifty Years of Architecture,
Landscape, Place, and
Community on the Northern
California Coast, Revised
Edition, by Donlyn Lyndon
and Jim Alinder, published
by Princeton Architectural
Press, 2013; Saxon Holt
Page 108. From top: courtesy
of Htel Le Corbusier; Fred
Marvaux/REA/Redux (2)
Page 109. Iain Masterton
Pages 110111. Courtesy
of 432 Hermosa (3)
Pages 136155. For Sanders,
Lloyd, and Corea, producer:
Joy Asbury. Set design:
Keith Evans. Grooming:
Carissa Ferreri using
Lancme. For Shorter and
Hancock, grooming: Tracy
Moyer using Suavecito.
For Carter, Ayers, Taylor,
Tyner, and Haynes,
set design: John Robinson.
Hair: Barry White for www
.barrywhitemensgrooming
.com. Grooming: Kumi
Craig at The Wall Group.
Page 156. Deborah Feingold/
Corbis via Getty Images
Page 157. From left: AF
Archive/Alamy; Michael Ochs
Archives/Getty Images
Page 158. From left: Mosaic
Images/Corbis/Corbis via
Getty Images; Roger
Ressmeyer/Corbis/VCG
via Getty Images
Page 159. From top:
Michael Ochs Archives/Getty
Images; David Redfern/
Redferns/Getty Images
Page 160. From top: Globe
Photos/ZumaPress/Alamy;
Tom Copi/Michael Ochs
Archives/Getty Images
Page 161. From left: David
Redfern/Redferns/Getty
Images; Ed Perlstein/
Redferns/Getty Images

gq style is a registered trademark of advance magazine


publishers inc. copyright 2016 cond nast.
all rights reserved. printed in the u.s.a.

WHEN K.DOT MET


DOUBLE R

Our cover-story interview


between Kendrick Lamar
and Rick Rubin took place
on September 28, 2016,
at Shangri La, Rubins
legendary Malibu studio
(where the Band once
lived). To see video footage
of the conversation,
go to GQStyle.com.

VOLUME 1, NO. 3. GQ Style (ISSN 2471-5393) is published quarterly by Cond Nast,


which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE:
Cond Nast, One World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007. S. I. Newhouse, Jr.,
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163

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