your free copy

/GREEK

ISLANDS
FOR
VISITORS

GREEK ISLANDS FOR VISITORS

THE
GREEK
ISLANDS
FOR
VISITORS

2/GREEK ISLANDS

Contents
02-06
The Greek
Islands
08-10
Getting There
12-14
Off The Beaten
Track
16-49
Mykonos
50-77
Santorini
78-87
Paros
88-95
Antiparos
96-107
Naxos
108-123
Syros
124-131
Sifnos
133-135
Serifos
136-145
Koufonissia
146-153
Amorgos
154-159
Tinos
160
Useful tips

Publisher

Dyo Deka Ekdotiki

Editor in Chief
Michalis Michael

Articles Editor

Daphne Papadopoulou

Creative Director
Christos Tzovaras

Designers

Vanessa Ferle
Kostas Stanellos

Illustrations
Dreyk The Pirate

Photographers
Spyros Staveris
Shutterstock

Coordination

Markella Andrikaki
Xenia Stasinopoulou

Text Correction
Olga Kariotis

Sales

Demetra Passomenou
Ismini Vourdaha
Kostas Mantas
George Lykourgiotis
Akis Michalopoulos
Ioulia Valsami
Spiros Apostolopoulos
Nefeli Kitsiou
Voula Karavaggeli
Selja Ternova

Produced by

DYO DEKA
EKDOTIKI SA
22 Voulis st.
Syntagma Square
Athens 105 61,
Greece
www.lifo.gr
For queries or comments
email us at info@lifo.gr

The
Greek
islands
4/GREEK ISLANDS

Travelling towards the

Greek islands is an experience in itself. You
arrive at Piraeus port
by train, panting and
sweating, with a large
backpack pressing
persistently against
your spine. You walk
to the nearby kiosk to

buy a bottle of water

and some savoury
bites for the trip. The
sun is burning hot and
you see that the only
thing separating you
from your dream holiday is a busy, noisy
two- way street. On
the opposite side of

the street, is the quay

where all the ferry
boats dock. Yours is
right there, its name
is written on the side.
You cross the street in
a rush and find yourself right outside your
boat. The large metal
hatchway is wide

open, like a gapping

mouth, devouring the
small, slow-moving
figures of the tourists.
A young port official
is blowing a whistle
and gesturing wildly
to the car drivers to
move faster. Cars
roll up the hatch and

THE
GREEK
ISLANDS
FOR
VISITORS

disappear into the belly

of the beast. You check
the time, take out your
ticket and join the line
of hopefuls wishing to
escape the dreary city.
You slowly make your
way up the narrow
stairways of the boat
to reach the open
deck, because thats
where the best views
are and where you
avoid the TV screens
blasting Greek TV
dramas. This is the
important part: Your
eyes scan the deck like
a laser beam to find
an appropriate shelter
from the relentless sun
and a potential spot to
lay down for a nap, if
needed. You avoid any
groups of more than
four teenagers who feel
the need to share their
music and intimate
conversations with
others. You zero in on
a spot and make a run
for it. Once seated, you
inspect your mobile

6/GREEK ISLANDS

phone, drink some

water and try to cool
down. The deck of the
boat feels like a laid
back United Nations
conference room, with
non-stop chatter echoing in half a dozen languages. At one corner,
a couple of dogs are
sniffing the small pools
of water gathered from
earlier maintenance
work. Theres a lot
of noise coming from
below. Cars and trucks
are honking their
horns; port police are
shouting unintelligible
orders. Suddenly, it
seems theres a light
wind blowing, cooling your forehead.
The boat is moving.
Youre off to the Greek
islands.
As you watch the
city disappear in the
horizon, seagulls start
circling the boat, hoping to secure a morsel
of bread thrown by a
sympathizing traveller.
The small caf at the
back of the deck sells
bucket loads of the
ubiquitous frapp
coffee and cappuccino

freddo. A couple sitting next to the funnel

are chewing oily pastry
pies and two guys
in front of them are
taking selfies with their
mobiles.
Though popular
islands like Mykonos,
Paros, Naxos and
Santorini are served
with frequent flights
and boat services,
others require a good
deal of patience and
high spirits as you may
find yourself cruising
through the blue
waters of the Aegean
for eight or 14 hours.
If you ever wanted to
catch up on your reading, this is the time.
The uniqueness of the
Greek islands rests in
their privileged location, their sheer variety, their trademark
architecture with its
blue-and-white paint
and the unbeatable
combination of dazzling sunlight, glinting
blue sea and warm,
golden sand.
Inhabited since
antiquity, they offer
a variety of sights,

ranging from ancient

Greek and Roman
ruins to crumbling
Venetian fortresses and
darkened volcanoes.
Some are designated
for wild times; others
are as quiet as an
upscale city suburb;
some have beaches that
could feature in a sun
block commercial and
others take you back
in time.
This is not an exhaustive guide of the Greek
islands. With around
1,400 islands, 160-227
of which are said to be
inhabited, a complete
guide would look more
like Encyclopaedia
Britannica than this
cute, portable magazine. The guide focuses
on the Cyclades; a
wild mixture of light,
stone and dryness
which constitutes the
countrys most visited
region. Theres also
an entry from the
Saronic Gulf Aegina
- one from the islands
of the northeastern
Aegean Ikaria - and
one from the Sporades
- Skiathos.

8/GREEK ISLANDS

photos by spiros staveris

Getting to and from

the islands

There are three main

ports which serve the
islands included in this
guide; Piraeus, Rafina
and Lavrio.
Piraeus serves
Aegina, Amorgos
(both ports; Egiali
and Katapola), Anafi,
Donousa, Folegandros,
Fourni, Ikaria (both
ports; Agios Kirikos
and Evdilos), Ios,
Iraklia, Kimolos,
Koufonisi, Mykonos,
Naxos, Paros, Santorini, Shinousa.
Piraeus is Greeces
biggest port and is
separated in different
gates marked with the
letter E and numbered
from 1-12, depending
on your destination:
1 (Akti Vasssiliadi):
departures to the
Dodecanese islands
of Rhodes, Patmos,
Kalimnos, Kos, Leros,
Karpathos, Tilos and
Kassos.
E2 (Akti Hetiona):
departures to Crete,
the Dodecanese
Islands, Chios, Mytilini
(Lesvos).
3 (Agios Dionysios
and Akti Kondyli):
departures to Crete.
E4: only for exit of
vehicles.
E5: entrance for pedestrians.

6 (Akti Kallimasiotti Argosaronikos):

departures to the
Western CycladesSifnos, Kythnos, Milos,
Kimolos, Sikinos. This
gate is for pedestrians
only, with direct access
from the metro station
via a bridge.
7 (Karaiskaki
square, Akti Tzelepi):
departures to Eastern
Cyclades- Syros, Paros,
Tinos, Mykonos,
Naxos, Amorgos,
Santorini and Ios.
E8: departures to the
Saronic Islands: Aegina, Poros, Methana,
Hydra and Spetses.
9 (Akti Miaouli):
departures to Western
Cyclades
E10: only for exit of
vehicles.
E11 & E12: Cruise
terminal A & B.
Rafina serves
Amorgos (Katapola
only), Ios, Koufonisi,
Mykonos, Naxos,
Paros, Santorini.
Lavrio serves
Kimolos, Milos and
Paros.
Companies for ferry
boat, fast boat and
catamaran tickets: Blue
Star Ferries (www.
bluestarferries.com,
el: +30 210 8919
800), Hellenic Seaways

(www.hellenicseaways.gr, el: +30 210

4199 000, agency in
Piraeus Tel: +30 210
4121830), Aegean
Speed Lines (www.
aegeanspeedlines.gr,
agency in Piraeus Tel:
+30 210 4125200),
Sea Jets (www.seajets.
gr, agency in Piraeus
Tel: 210-4190233),
Nova Ferries (www.
novaferries.gr, Tel: +30
210 4126181, agency
in Piraeus Tel: +30 210
4126528).
A very useful website
is Book ferries (www.
bookferries.gr), where
you can book your
tickets for all the Greek
islands, as well as Italy
and Albania, which
also offers the latest
news in services (possible strikes, changes in
routes), weather conditions and even has a
Google map showing
live marine traffic in
the Aegean.
For live information on arrivals and
departures from all
three ports, call Piraeuss information line
at 14541 and wait for
the prompt to switch
to English. After that,
you will be put through
to a telephone operator
(service is charged).

THE
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ISLANDS
FOR
VISITORS

Island hopping is
the standard way of
visiting the islands and
most people opt for
the ferry option, but
theres a more stylish,
convenient and easy
way to travel around
the Aegean and explore
secluded caves and
beaches. Aegeotissa
Yachts is a family run
company specialising
in cruises around the
Aegean with traditional wooden yachts. The
company owns three
boats; Aegeotissa I, Aegeotissa II and Corsaro
Del Santa Maura. The
first two are a 34- and
a 40-metre-long yacht
respectively, which can
accommodate 20-24
passengers in separate
cabins, equipped with
air condition and their
own toilet. Aegeo-

tissa I travels to all the

islands (Cyclades,
Sporades, Dodecanese
and Ionian) and can
be hired for 7 or 14
days. Aegiotissa II
covers all the Greek
islands as well as the
coast of Turkey and
the Peloponnese. The
Corsaro is the newest
in the small fleet and
was built as a replica
of 17th century pirate
ships, causing many
heads to turn when it
appears at a harbour.
Its itinerary focuses on
the Ionian Islands and
specifically to places
where pirates used to
travel and hide.
The yachts (Aegiotissa I & II) cover
one island per day.
The day starts with
breakfast on one of the
decks and swimming
at a secluded beach
until the afternoon.

This is followed by
lunch on the boat and
then passengers are
shipped to the island
on a dinghy boat to
spend the rest of the
day there. The atmosphere on the boat is
relaxed and friendly,
guests have the opportunity to lie on a
sun lounger on one of
the decks, eat at the
dining room or have
a drink at the bar.
For more information
on specific departure
dates, cruises, cabin
charters and prices you
can email Stephanie
Areli at aegeotissa@
gmail.com, or call at
+30 26450 23983.
They also have a website (www.aegeotissa.
gr). Their Facebook
page is www.facebook.com/pages/
aegeotissa-yachts/
123861574303407.

photos by spiros staveris

For air tickets:

There are three daily
flights to/from Athens
with Aegean Airlines
(www.aegeanair.com)
and three to/from
Athens with Olympic
Air (www.olympicair.
com). Check the airlines websites as more
return flights are added
on Sundays.
For live information on
arrivals and departures, check Athens
International Airports
website (www.aia.gr)
Weather forecasts: Check the
National Meteorological Service (www.
hnms.gr) and click on
the English button at
the top right.

Cruising in
style

10/GREEK ISLANDS

Off
the
beaten
track
Apart from islands which feature every year
in travel and lifestyle magazines and attract
the bulk of visitors, the last couple of decades attention has shifted towards less visited
destinations, like Anafi, Ikaria, Kimolos and
Folegandros, to name but a few. These have become favourite destinations for people who are
tired of the usual tourist trail and are eager to
lay their towel on a secluded beach and explore
villages which offer a glimpse of traditional
life. Some of these islands may require three
days to discover, others can be criss-crossed in
24 hours. You do not need a guide for these
islands. All you need is reasonable shoes, plenty
of sunblock and an adventurous spirit.

12/GREEK ISLANDS

Anafi

Anafi is a small
gem of an island,
better known as the
next boat stop after
Santorini. Its proximity to its famous
neighbour (just an
hour on the ferry) has
rendered it increasingly popular, so go
there while its still
unspoiled from mass
tourism. The island is
perfect for relaxation and, to that end,
boasts some beautiful
beaches like Megalos
Roukounas, the
longest and busiest,
Klisidi a small cove
with a whitewashed
chapel overlooking the
beach as well as the
more secluded Flamorou and Katsouni.

Its main village, Hora,

is a 10-minute bus
ride away from the
port, Agios Nikolaos.
A whiff of oregano
floods your nostrils
all over Anafi and it
is said that the island
produces some of the
best thyme honey.
Make sure you buy
some, together with
a variety of Mediterranean herbs from
the tourist shops at
the main port. The
islands geological
highlight is a tall
monolithic rock jutting from the eastern
end of Anafi. The
420-metre formation
is Mt. Kalamos and
on its top sits an abandoned monastery with
indescribable views

photos by spiros staveris

Panigiria in Ikaria

of the Aegean. If you

like hiking it is well
worth the walk, but
start early in the day
to avoid the heat of
noon and bring water
and food. For more
information check
www.anafi.gr.

Ikaria

Ikaria is an oddball
of an island, mostly
preferred by laidback
youngsters. It belongs
to the northeastern
cluster of islands and,
with a size of 255
square km, is considered as medium sized.
Ikarians are known
for their longevity (the
island was added to
the Blue Zones of the
planet - places where
most locals live over

90) and their unique

sense of time, which
is a diplomatic way
of saying that shops
open and close at
irregular times: some
open at noon, others
at night and others
choose to close at
3am. Life is definitely
easy going and if
youre ok with that,
you will enjoy your
stay on the island.
There are two ports,
Evdilos and Agios
Kirikos - the quiet
capital of the island
and a good place to
start your walks. The
best time to visit is
during one of Ikarias
famous panigiria
(festivals held on
saints days). The
most famous is held at

the village of Hristos,

Rahes on 6th August,
when celebrations are
known to turn wild
with traditional music
and locals dancing
the famed Ikariotikos
dance. The island also
celebrates on 15th
August at Langada
village. Ikarias famed
hot mineral springs
are reputed to relieve
symptoms of arthritis
and rheumatism
and are located at
Therma, just outside
of Agios Kirikos. The
island's best beaches
are at Armenistis, Nas
preferred by nudists
and Prioni, formed
by a series of secluded
natural coves. Windsurfers prefer Mesakti
for its strong winds

and golden sand and

Seychelles, a beach
in southern Ikaria
whose nickname aptly
describes it. One point
to remember is that
sea currents in Ikaria
can be very strong
and a number of
drownings have been
reported. If youre
travelling with kids,
make sure theyre
not left unattended
and have a second
person watching you
while youre in the
water. Take a day trip
to nearby Fournoi
islands to complete
your experience. For
more information,
check
www.island-ikaria.
com.

THE
GREEK
ISLANDS
FOR
VISITORS

Folegandros

Kimolos

Time also seems to

have forgotten the
picturesque island of
Kimolos. Life here
moves slowly with
locals gathering in
quaint squares and
children playing
carelessly for hours.
Horio the main
village is a pleasant surprise, with
its winding streets,
picturesque squares
and flower-filled
yards with striking
fuchsia bougainvilleas growing against
white walls. Go there
by noon and the only
sound you will hear in
the village is the monotonous buzz of the
cicadas which seem
to disregard the quiet
hours. The rest of the
islands settlements
are inhabited mostly
during the summer
and include the small
port of Psathi, and
the sandy beaches of
Prasa, Goupa, Aliki,
Dekas and Bonatsa.
Sights of interest
include the fortress
of Paleokastro at the
centre of the island
14/GREEK ISLANDS

and further down you

will see the massive,
mushroom-shaped
stone formation called
Skiadi. In Horio, the
small Archaeological
Museum traces the
history of the island
through many artefacts and pictures,
while the 19th century
church of Panagia
Odigitria right across
the museum houses
the old Byzantine icon
of the Virgin Mary.
Along the coast of Kimolos you will often
find fishermen repairing their nets and
cleaning their boats.
Take a day trip to
uninhabited Poliegos
Island for a swim at
its beautiful beaches
and explore the abandoned monastery and
the lighthouse. Kimolos can be reached by
daily ferry services
from nearby Milos.
For more information,
check
www.kimolos.gr.

Folegandros

Folegandros is the
new hit of the Aegean,
with its rocky, dry

landscape and scenic

main village attracting
eclectic visitors. The
meandering alleys of
Hora, perched on a
high rock overlooking the Aegean, lead
the visitor through
three consecutive
small squares, flanked
by whitewashed
houses and colourful wooden doors.
Cars have thankfully
been banned from
entering the village,
so the only traffic
you will encounter
is locals going about
their business. Your
walk will bring you
to the medieval kastro
(=castle), whose walls
nowadays form part
of the surrounding
houses. There are
several small tavernas
and cafs scattered
around the village offering traditional food
(soft souroto cheese,
matsata spaghetti) and
desserts (sweet watermelon pie) to hungry
visitors. The second
settlement is the agricultural Ano Meria,
where you can visit
the Folk Art Museum.

Hikers will enjoy

the clearly marked
footpaths crisscrossing the dry land.
Folegandross beaches
are mostly rocky and
small but the waters
are crystal clear. Two
of them are reachable
by car: Karavostasi
the main port and the
beaches close to it and sandy Angali, but
for the rest you will
need to walk along
dirt paths for as long
as an hour or take
one of the small boats
which service them.
Remember to carry
plenty of water and
a few sandwiches as
none of those beaches
have shops nearby.
The island has rather
limited accommodation options which
raise prices, especially
in August, so remember to book ahead
of your arrival. The
island has only one
ATM, so remember
to bring cash. You
can rent a car or
motorcycle at the port
of Hora. For more
information, check
www.folegandros.gr.

16/MYKONOS

/THE

GREEK
ISLANDS
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VISITORS/

Mykonos
Probably one
of the most famous
places in the world.
Mykonos island
is the perfect spot
for everything!

18/MYKONOS

Welcome to Mykonos!
The most popular
of Greeces islands,
Mykonos, needs no
introductions unless
youve been living in
a cave. Its reputation as a cosmopolitan destination
began in the 1960s
when international
celebrities started
spending their days
and nights at the
islands restaurants
and bars. Locals
have endless stories
to share about this
or that jet setter
or movie star who
was seen shopping and partying
around Mykonos

20/MYKONOS

town. The island

is a destination for
party lovers, with
top international
DJs scheduling stints
at the mega clubs of
Paradise beach. The
clichs youve heard
about Mykonos are
true. Its cosmopolitan, picturesque and
pricey, its nightlife is
second to none and
every other dirt road
leads to a sandy
beach with sparkly
blue waters. It is
also together with
Ibiza - one of the
main gay friendly
destinations in the
Mediterranean.

This open mentality

means that people
who come here feel
free to express their
sexuality and enjoy
what the island has
to offer.
Having said this,
travelling to
Mykonos does not
necessarily mean
you have to forego
peace and quiet. In
fact, if you choose
June or September
for your holiday,
or stick to the
quieter parts of the
island, you could be
excused for thinking
youre in Amorgos
or any other low

profile destination. As a regular

visitor commented,
Mykonos combines
different lifestyles.
Depending where
you stay, swim,
shop, eat and drink,
you may collect
experiences worthy
of a Hangover
movie sequel, or a
National Geographic nature documentary. Its really up
to you.
The boat will bring
you at the new port,
Troulos, and from
there you can begin
your exploration.
The island has just

22/MYKONOS

/THE
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VISITORS/

two towns (the others are just seaside

resorts); its namesake and Ano Mera
with the main sights
scattered around
Mykonos town. The
labyrinth of alleys
and back streets are
confusing at first,
but once you get
the hang of it, you
will be able to stroll
down the street with
the confidence of a
local. Back-to-back
boutiques line the
main thoroughfares
and are open all day
for business. Four
small museums are
worth your visit:
The Archaeological Museum (near

24/MYKONOS

the northern bus

station, Tel: +30
22890 22325, open
daily 08:30-15:00
except Mondays)
houses items from
the prehistoric to
the late Hellenistic
period, like pottery,
vases and stelae dug
out in uninhabited
Rinia island. The
Folklore Museum
(close to Church of
Paraportiani, Tel:
+30 22890 22591,
open daily from
16:30-20:30 except
Sundays) has a
beautiful collection
of embroidery, old
wooden furniture,
maps, pictures and
more. Lenas House

(Tria Pygadia,
Mykonos town,
Tel: +30 22890
22390), an annexe
of the Folklrore
Museum, presents
the interior decoration of a typical
19th century middle
class house. Next to
Lenas House is the
Maritime Museum
(Tel: +30 22890
22700, open daily
10:30-13:00 and
18:30-21:00) which
houses nautical
instruments, vessels,
maps and coins
from antiquity until
recent times.
At the western edge
of the town stands
Panagia Parapor-

tiani (Kastro district,

Mykonos town), an
awkwardly shaped
Byzantine church
and the most photographed site on the
island. It is made
up of five smaller
churches - four on
the ground floor
and one on top. The
construction of the
first church started
in 1425 and the
whole building was
completed in the
17th century.
When it comes to
beaches, you will be
spoilt for choice. If
you crave attention
and want to flirt,
head to beaches like
Paradise (real name

/THE
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Mykonos
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VISITORS/

Kalamopodi), Super
Paradise (real name
Blidri) and Paraga,
all of which are
packed with half
naked people, sun
loungers and umbrellas. Parties here
start as early as 4pm
and alcohol runs
plentiful at the numerous beach bars.
The idea is to swim,
eat and drink your
cocktail without
moving more than
100 metres from
your lounger. Super
Paradise has its own
website for info on
upcoming events
and tell-tale pictures
(www.superparadise.com.gr).

26/MYKONOS

If dance music is
your thing, dont
leave Paradise beach
without joining
revellers at Cavo
Pradiso (300 metres
up the hill, Tel:
+30 22890 27205)
and Paradise Club
Mykonos (also
on the hill), two
open-air mega clubs
where you can
party until the sun
comes up. Super
star DJs like Tiesto,
David Morales, Paul
Oakenfold, David
Guetta, Armin Van
Buuren and Bob
Sinclar often appear
on the decks. At the
south, Psarou beach
is a meeting point

for Greek celebrities and people who

are there mainly to
show off their tan
rather than swim.
Women parade up
and down the beach
wearing little more
than lip gloss and
colourful Ray-Bans.
The beachs popularity is such that, at
high season, people
call from Athens to
book sun loungers
and umbrellas. If the
possibility of arguing with an over
tanned, half-drunk,
muscular man over
a sun lounger is not
your idea of fun,
head towards the
quieter beaches at

the north which

have been spared
the onslaught of
lined umbrellas and
blasting electronica
music.
Unspoiled Ftelia
beach is popular
with windsurfers as
its northern exposure ensures strong
winds almost all
year round. Every
year, the island
hosts the Wave
Tour, the international windsurfing
games which attract
all the big names
in the sport. The
seclusion you will
enjoy here means
its a good spot to
go skinny dipping

/THE
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Mykonos
ISLANDS
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VISITORS/

and bring your dog

(Greeks are not too
keen on seeing dogs
swim next to their
kids). Agios Sostis
is also popular with
nudists but cannot
be reached by bus,
so its best to rent a
car or motorcycle.
For even more privacy, head to Fokos
or Kapari (right
next to Fokos), two
beaches with no
facilities, which can
be reached using
your own transport.
Kalo Livadi is an
organised beach
but its quieter than
the others and is
thus preferred by
families. Agios Ioan-

28/MYKONOS

nis, more famous

as the backdrop for
the 1980s movie
Shirley Valentine,
is a relatively quiet
beach with facilities
for snorkelling and
a great tavern on
site.
Of course, no beach
is complete without
some sporting facilities and in Mykonos
you will find plenty
on most organised
beaches (Kalafatis,
Elia, Platis Yialos).
Theres skiing,
windsurfing, kitesurfing, jet-skiing,
parasailing, scuba
diving and any other
water sport you
can imagine. For

dry sports - until

you start sweating there are
several tennis courts
in Mykonos town
which can be rented
for a game, unless
your hotel has a
court.
Mykonos is a sartorialist heaven. This
is the only island for
which women pack
high heels. Any new
trend set abroad is
bound to be tried
out here, so all the
crazy shopping you
did back home will
pay off. Hipsters
and fashionistas
compete for attention at Matoyannia
in the afternoon,

the towns main

thoroughfare,
while middle-aged,
well-heeled couples
stroll around town
in search of the best
upscale restaurant.
If youre itching to
use your credit card,
you will have no
trouble doing so in
one of the big-name
luxury brands who
have set up shop
in town. There are
also shops selling
local delicacies,
Greek herbs, natural
cosmetics, leather
sandals and of
course beachwear.
You will be spoilt
for choice when it
comes to food as

/THE
GREEK
Mykonos
ISLANDS
FOR
VISITORS/

this is one of the few

islands which can
boast a variety of
restaurants with international cuisine.
Apart from the usual tavernas serving
traditional fare, you

30/MYKONOS

down, theres no
better place to
watch the sunset
than Little Venice,
whose scenic houses
and windmills featured in the movie
Bourne Identity.
All the bars there
are very touristy
and the quality of
service and drinks
will vary, so look at
what is being served
before you sit. Later
on, the fun moves
back to Hora, where
throngs of tanned
revellers show off
their dance skills
in stylish bars and
around the alleys.

may also try Italian,

Chinese, Japanese
and even Argentinian food while in
town. Many restaurants offer a fusion
of Greek cuisine
with international

favourites. Most restaurants are located

in Mykonos town
and the following
list is only indicative
of the type of food
you may find.
When the sun goes

Getting
there: There are
many daily ferry and
catamaran services
connecting Piraeus
and Rafina ports
with Mykonos.
Mykonos Airport is
also served by two
Greek carriers
Olympic Air and Aegean Air and many
international airlines
fly directly to the
island. The airport is
situated 4 km from
Mykonos Town and
you can reach it by
taxi. Check the Getting to and from the
islands section for
ferry websites.

Delos
Your sightseeing
wouldnt be complete without a day
trip to Delos, where
excavations have
uncovered the second most important
ancient sanctuary in
Greece after Delphi,
dedicated mainly to
God Apollo. The
uninhabited island
is 3.5 km off the

32/MYKONOS

coast of Mykonos
and is included in
UNESCOs World
Heritage list.
According to the
myth, the island is
the birthplace of
Apollo and Artemis, two of God
Zeuss many - illegitimate - children.
The site has five
focal points: the

maritime quarter,
the theatre, the
temples of Apollo,
the lion terrace
and the house of
Dionysos. Boats
leave daily at 9,
10 and 11am from
the pier at the west
side of the harbour,
right behind the little church of Agios
Nikolaos. The boat

trip takes about

30 minutes. Boats
return at 12:15,
13:30 and 3pm.
Boat trips to Delos
are also organized
from Platys Yalos
and Paranga beach
and you can book
a tour guide on the
spot. The site is
closed on Mondays.

LiFOce
i
cho
mykonos

Koursaros

Aneplora Restaurant

FOOD&DRINK
01

Koursaros

meletopoulou
sq., mykonos
town, tel: +30
22890 78140, www.
koursarosmykonos
.gr

The restaurant welcomes you in a setting

that will remind you of
pirates, in a beautiful
garden, where you will
taste many original
Greek and Mediterranean flavours. The

34/MYKONOS

Bar Lola

focus is on fish and

seafood which have
been chosen by the
chefs. The restaurant
has 20 years of experience in the northern
suburbs of Athens and
experienced staff who
guarantee an environment of Greek hospitality and gastronomic
simplicity.
02

Aneplora
Restaurant

kalafatis beach,
mykonos, tel: +30
22890 72480

A panorama of Asian
flavours and philosophy, right next to
Kalafatis beach. This
is the only Thai restaurant on the island,
offering dishes like Goi
Ga salad, Thai chicken
with spicy sauce and
Asian cocktails like
Aneplora Special. The
restaurant offers la
carte menu with 15
per person on Tuesdays, Thursdays and
Sundays, and theres a
happy hour (6pm-

9pm) with 2 cocktails

in the price of one.
03

Bar Lola

mykonos town,
tel: +30 22890 78391

For the past five years,

a small but amazing
bar has been offering
alternative fun to its
customers behind
Little Venice. As soon
as you enter, you see
Marlene Dietrich on
the wall who has been
a source of inspiration.
You will probably
head here every day,

LiFOce
i
cho
mykonos

Argo

Alefkandra Restaurant

before or after lunch

or dinner to enjoy the
great music, coffee or
a drink.
04

Appaloosa
Restaurant

mavrogeni street,
goumeniou square,
mykonos, tel: +30
22890 27086

A steady presence on
the island, Appaloosa
combines gastronomic
tastes. If one of you
wants spicier flavours
and the other more
traditional, here you

36/MYKONOS

Appaloosa Restaurant

will find both. The

restaurant serves
Greek specialties,
with a modern twist,
Mexican specialties,
Indian and Indonesian.
Theres also a vegan
menu. In Appaloosa
you may dine at a
table or at the bar with
a margarita or another
cocktail in your hand.
Happy Hour is from
19:30-21:00 and there
are also fix choices
for food and drink for
10-12.

05

Alefkandra
Restaurant

little venice,
mykonos, tel: +30
22890 22450

Famous traditional
restaurant located
under the windmills
of Little Venice. Here
you will find seafood
and lobsters swimming
in the aquarium. It
is considered one of
the best restaurants in
the Cyclades, not just
Mykonos.

06

Argo

mando square,
old port of mykonos,
tel: +30 695 714 9413

Legendary rock bar

which closed for a
few years and is now
back, fully refurbished,
with a wider variety of
services. It opens in the
morning for quality
coffee, selected small
snacks and tasty desserts while at night, it
turns into the famous
Argo, with parties and
rock nights.

LiFOce
i
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mykonos

Scarpa Bar

Ftelia Restaurant

07

Amades

mykonos hora,
close to agia kyriaki,
tel: +30 22890 78801

The underground
space with a kite logo
has something special:
it combines rock with
rebetika songs, but
also sees rebetika as
an early version of
rock. The raki served
is the best youll ever
find and its so famous
it is not even on the
menu. They know
whoever wants it will
ask for it. It is always

38/MYKONOS

Amades

accompanied by
several meze dishes,
with fava being the
favourite and those
who know will recommend it.
08

Scarpa Bar

little venice,
mykonos, tel: +30
22890 23294

The venue, situated

in one of the islands
hot spots, welcomes
you daily from 9am
for a cup of coffee, or
a juice if you do not
drink coffee. After

sunset, it offers strong

cocktails, which are
necessary to get the
party started with
the sounds chosen
by Greek and foreign
DJs.
09

Ftelia
Restaurant

ftelia, mykonos, tel:

+30 22890 72466

Three friends with

experience in the restaurant business from
Athens transferred
their knowledge at
Mykonoss Ftelia and

created the namesake

restaurant. The decoration is Mediterranean, mainly Moroccan.
The food is also Mediterranean, offering
tagliatelle with fresh
rocket, spinach salad
with chicken and
roasted almonds and
a perfect pizza thin
and crunchy made
the Italian style. After
you finish your food,
its time to order a
cocktail and complete
the experience.

LiFOce
i
cho
mykonos

The classic of Mykonos

10

Galleraki
Cocktail Bar

scarpa, mykonos,
tel: +30 22890 27188,
galleraki.gr

In the heart of Little

Venice and the Aegean
Sea, stretching in front
of your eyes, is Galleraki Bar, one of the
oldest on the island. It
is housed in a classic
Cycladic building and
this is where youll
find coffee in the
morning and drinks
and cocktails in the
evening.

The Classic of
11
Mykonos
evangelistraki,
circular road of
mykonos, tel: +30
22890 24500-10

From the heart of

Athens to the heart of
Mykonos, this traditional souvlaki grill

40/MYKONOS

is where you will find

what comes to your
mind when you think
of Greece. Rolled souvlaki, skewers, classic
appetizers, or for
those who are more
demanding, grilled
kefalograviera cheese,
its famous kebab or
soutzouki, grilled
meat and six versions
of yiaourtlou kebab.
12

Kalua

paraga beach,
tel: +30 22890 23397

Beach bar - restaurant.

13

Lounge
Paradise

paradise, tel: +30

22890 22852

Beach bar.
14

Pili

st. John's beach,

tel: +30 22890 26660

Bar - restaurant.
15

Bonatsa
platis gialos

beach, tel: +30 2289

028048

Bar - restaurant.
16

Alemagou

ftelia beach,
tel: +30 22890 71339

Bar - restaurant
17

Agrari Beach

agrari beach,
tel: +30 22890 71339

Bar - restaurant.
18

Epistrofi

st. stefano's
beach, tel: +30 22890
28628

Bar - restaurant.
19

Porto - rnos

ornos beach,
tel: +30 22890 25868

Restaurant.
20

Cavo Psarou

psarou beach,
tel: +30 22890 25822

Caf - restaurant.
21

1975

airport, tel: +30

22890 78888

Caf - restaurant.
22

n Plo

gialos, chora
mykonos, tel: +30
22890 23011

Caf - restaurant.
23

Rouvera

gialos, chora
mykonos, tel: +30
22890 28858

Caf - restaurant.
24

Music

gialos, chora
mykonos, tel: +30
22890 27625

Caf - restaurant.
25

Yummy

laka, chora
mykonos, tel: +30
22890 28823

Caf - snack bar.

26

L'Unico

matogianni
- st. kyriaki, chora
mykonos, tel: +30
22890 24190

Caf - snack bar.

LiFOce
i
cho
mykonos

The Jars of Brands

Rien

SHOPPING
The Jars
01
of Brands
41-43 kalogera street,
mykonos, tel: +30
22890 78955

For a third consecutive year, the boutique

awaits for you on
the popular Kalogera
Street in Mykonos,
with exclusive and top
brand names in womens clothing, men
and womens bathing

42/MYKONOS

Melivia

suits, jewellery,
sandals and mens
shirts. MI-RO, Ratt
by Rita Attala, Sophie
Deloudi Swimwears,
Pantones and Drink
Beer Save Water
t-shirts, LJewels jewellery, House of Angels
sandals and Don Universe Blue De Genes
mens swimwear are
some of the brands to
choose from.
02

Rien

14 florou
zouganeli street,

mykonos, tel: +30

22890 77230

This atelier opened

four years ago by
Peny, whos passionate about the art of
sewing and creates
clothes, swimwear,
jewellery, leather bags,
all of which aim at
making women feel
comfortable with
those items. The name
means Nothing
but signifies a lot. It
signifies that fashion
is not posing, is not

trends, is what every

person feels and each
person has a different
feeling to express.
This is what the
creator of this atelier
Penny Vomva, tries to
accomplish: to reflect
each persons feelings
on the clothes, swimwear and accessories.
03

Melivia

26 kalogera
street, mykonos,
tel: +30 22890 27827,
athens showroom,
tel: +30 210 3636439,

LiFOce
i
cho
mykonos

Ekaterini Jewellery Design

facebook.com/
melivia.boutique,
melivia.boutique@
gmail.com

Located in an old
mansion in one of
the busiest alleys of
Mykonos, MELIVIA
boutique remains a
destination for those
wanting a selected mix
of clothes and accessories. MELIVIA offers a
wide range ofinternational labels. The place
to find ERMANNO
SCERVINOamazing laces,FABIANA
FILIPPISsimple lines,
STEFANO MORTARIand many more
sandals decorated
with semi-precious
stones by CARUSO,
EUGENIA KIMdesigner hats, SPAZIO
MANASSEI GIOIELLI
jewels and a superb

collection of luxurious beachwear like

MARISA PADOVAN
Haute Couture, the
well-known French
brandERES, CHLOE
MARE, FLAVIA
PADOVAN and
KRISTINA-TI.

Ekaterini
Jewellery
Design
04

matoyianni, mykonos
town, tel: +30 22890
78876, facebook:
ekaterini jewellery
design

The shop sells clothes

from designer Ekaterini which are produced in Greece, but
also has a wide range
of foreign brands. The
youthful design and
great value for money
are present in the
hottest trends in accessories like earrings,

LiFOce
i
cho
mykonos

Optique Boutique

necklaces, colourful
watches etc.
05

Optique
Boutique

17 agiou gerasimou
street, mykonos,
tel: +30 22890 77231

The store in Piraeus

travels to Mykonos,
opens its doors and
is here to take care of
your eyes. With over
30 brands of eyewear, over 40 brands
of sunglasses and
contact lenses, it is
certain you will find
your ideal partner for
your eyes. This year,
the big arrival is the
bracelets of Italian
Independent which
you will love.

ACCOMMODATION
Florios Real
01
Estate
mykonos, tel: +30
6945 716650

Florios Asimomytis
grew up on the island
46/MYKONOS

and offers accommodation options

to visitors who are
looking for a quieter
place with more privacy. He can hire villas, condos, historic
windmills, regular
houses. If you like
the island and you
start considering buying a summer house
here, he can help
you buy it. Apart
from the above, he
may also arrange for
you to rent a boat,
limo transport, make
restaurant, beach and
beauty salon reservations, and also watch
over your summer
house when youre
away.
02

Mustang
Rent a Car

fabrica, mykonos,
tel: +30 22890 22792
& 26464

The agency has

been a safe choice
for renting means
of transport since

LiFOce
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cho
mykonos

Andronikos hotel

1990. With 11 cars

available for rent, we
guarantee safe driving and a good price.
The agency aims to
keep the prices at
low levels and has a
friendly and warm
approach towards its
clients. This is why
we deliver the car
to the port or your
hotel and pick it up
from any place you
choose. The staff is
available at all times
if any problems arise.
03

Andronikos
hotel

drafaki, mykonos,
tel: +30 22890 24231

Here you will stay in

design hotel rooms of
excellent taste with
plenty of services
available for and
outside the rooms.
You may choose
between the simple
room, the Blue or
Cocoon rooms, the
Superior rooms, or
48/MYKONOS

the suite. Traditional

Greek breakfast and
meals are served
either in bed or in the
pool area. At Lady
Finger Gree or Pure
All Day Restaurant
you will try grilled
dishes or burgers,
with various sauces
and side dishes, like
salads, French fries,
mashed potatoes
or rice, pasta and
pizzas and finally
the deserts, like
tsoureki, mille feuille,
Grek donuts and ice
cream. In Orange
Blue Bar you will
find your favourite
cocktails and drinks
or others you havent
tried like Mai Tai,
Caipirinha, Bloody
Mary etc. Finally, the
venue houses a gym
for those of you who
want to maintain
their figure as well as
a spa for moments of
relaxation.

/THE

GREEK
ISLANDS
FOR
VISITORS/

Santorini
Magic views,
exquisite hotels,
excellent sightseeing,
amazing nightlife.
What else?

50/SANTORINI

/THE
GREEK
ISLANDS SANTORINI
FOR
VISITORS/

In 1956, when
Greece was still
struggling to recover
from the devastation
of the Second World
War, a big earthquake hit the island.
Fifty - six people
were killed and hundreds were injured
in what was the
largest earthquake
to hit Europe in the
20th century. With
their houses and
livelihoods reduced
to rubble, locals
started abandoning
the island in waves
and travelling to
Athens or abroad to
start anew. At that
time, anyone with
moderate savings
could have bought
half the island as
people were eager to
be rid of any property, viewed then as
52/SANTORINI

worthless. A lot has

changed since then.
Santorini emerged
from oblivion in the
1970s with the advent of tourism and
the development of
modern transportation, to become one
of the hottest travel
destinations in the
world.
Athinios, the busy
port of Santorini, is
not much to look
at, but as soon as
you start ascending
the narrow winding
road that leads to
Fira, you are made
aware of the raw
beauty of the island
that has mesmerised
visitors for decades.
Santorini is an active volcano. It last
erupted in 1950 on
Nea Kameni, the
small island formed

from past eruptions. Dont worry

though; chances of
it erupting while
youre spending the
summer there are
extremely thin. The
name Santorini was
given to the island
by the Franks who
run the island in the
13th century in honour of Saint Irene
and it has stuck
until today, though
the official name is
Thira.
Fira, the main town,
is picturesque, but
has not escaped the
side effects of mass
tourism. Throngs of
tourists, right off the
cruise ships, fill up
the narrow paths,
cars are parked
everywhere, tacky
souvenir shops interchange with dated

jewellery stores,
signs pop up arrogantly like mushrooms in every street
corner and a couple
of unsightly buildings mess up the
picture-perfect town.
There are some
bright spots though.
Take a seat at one
of the cliff-hanging
cafs where you
have your first panoramic view of the
18 km long caldera,
stretching like a
crescent moon from
Akrotiri to Cape
Agios Nikolaos,
at the north. Right
and left Fira town
is spread out with
whitewashed houses
and churches with
brilliant blue cupolas. At the centre of
the lagoon is Nea
Kameni and further

/THE
GREEK
ISLANDS SANTORINI
FOR
VISITORS/

out the inhabited

island of Thirasia.
The caldera cafs are
the perfect places to
sip the first aperitif
of the evening and
contemplate on the
age-old popular
legend on whether
Santorini is indeed
the lost Atlantis.
Sightseeing should
begin at Akrotiri
(Tel: +30 22860
81366, open
Tue-Sun) where
excavations in 1967
brought to light the
best known Minoan
site outside of Crete.
The elaborate
complexes of multilevel buildings, the
streets, objects and
54/SANTORINI

walls have been

well preserved as
they were buried
under the ashes of
the huge eruption
which destroyed the
island in the 17th
century BC. The
impressive frescoes
from Akrotiri can
be found at the Museum of Prehistoric
Thira at Fira (Tel:
+30 22860 22217,
open Tue-Sun). The
Archaeological Museum (Fira, Tel:+30
22860 22217, open
Tue-Sun) exhibits
sculptures and
inscriptions from
the Roman times, as
well as some objects
from Akrotiri.

Naos Episkopis
Thiras (south of
village Mesa Gonia)
is an important
Byzantine church
built in the 11th
century by emperor
Alexios Komninos.
The small Folklore
Museum of Manolis
Lignos (Kontohori,
Fira, Tel: 22860
22792) houses an
old canava (wine
cellar) and tools of
the wine business.
Do not miss the
chance to walk on
dark solid lava and
swimming in hot
springs by joining
one of the daily boat
trips to Palia and
Nea Kameni, the

volcanic islands in
the middle of the
caldera, and bigger
Thirasia. Boats
leave from Yalos
Santorinis old port
- Athinios the new
port and Ammoudi.
Santorini also has
a thriving art scene
with Greek and
foreign artists exhibiting their work
in various venues
around the island.
Art Space in Exo
Gonia (open daily
from 11am to sunset, Tel: +30 22860
32774) exhibits in
its carved chambers
contemporary art
from new and estab-

/THE
GREEK
ISLANDS SANTORINI
FOR
VISITORS/

56/SANTORINI

lished artists. Mati

art gallery (Fira,
Orthodox Cathedral
plateau, Tel:+30
22860 23814) showcases the work of
visual artist Yorgos
Kypris.
Many people argue
Santorini doesnt
have any decent
beaches. Thats not
true. Because of its
unique geology, Santorini has unusual
beaches which are
completely different
from each other.
Most of them are
quite busy and the
best time to enjoy
them is to get there
before noon. Perissa
is a popular long
beach with fine,
black, volcanic sand
and lounge chairs
for everyone. There
are many water
sports on offer and
the village has plenty
of tavernas for an
afternoon snack.
Perivolos is the natural continuation of
Perissa and is similarly organised with
umbrellas, beach
bars and lots of celebrity viewings. The
beautiful limestone
formations found in
Vlihada beach create
a lunar landscape
where you are able
to escape the sun
loungers by simply
walking past them.
Kamari beach is
probably the most
famous beach and is
similarly geared towards pleasing tour-

/THE
GREEK
ISLANDS SANTORINI
FOR
VISITORS/

ists with beach bars

and water sports.
Lying on your sun
lounger, you will
probably see many
small airplanes flying really low over
the water; thats
because the airport
runway starts right
after the village.
Two more beaches
on the southwestern coast are really
worth a mention:
Kokkini paralia (red
beach), right next
to the archaeological site of Akrotiri,
is a narrow beach
spread at the base
58/SANTORINI

of steep brick red

rocks. It is reachable
by boat from Akrotiri. Aspri paralia
(white beach) has,
as you may guess,
white sand made of
pulverized limestone
and to get there
you must hop on a
boat. At the north,
Katharos beach
is blissfully quiet,
though this is slowly
changing. To get
there, drive towards
Ammoudi port and
follow the signs.
Theres an amazing
bar squeezed in the
rocks overlooking

the beach which is

an ideal location to
enjoy that famous
sunset without the
crowds of Oia and
Fira. Baxedes beach
at the northeast
is recommended
for families as the
waters are shallow
an exception in
Santorini. Driving
towards the east you
will find Monolithos
and Karterados,
both with black pebbles and sand, with
Monolithos being
more popular.
If you like gourmet
food, Santorini

will not disappoint

you. The island has
a long tradition
of cultivating and
consuming high
quality local produce. The volcanic
earth has helped
Santorini develop
unique agricultural
products which have
dominated the eclectic culinary scene
for many years.
The local waterless
small tomatoes (like
cherry tomatoes)
have an amazing full
flavour and colour
and the same goes
for the local white

/THE
GREEK
ISLANDS SANTORINI
FOR
VISITORS/

aubergine. Fava
beans from Santorini
are so good they
were assigned the
PDO tag (Protected
Designation of
Origin). The island
also has a sophisticated wine industry
which produces
local varieties like
Asyrtiko and the
sweet Vinsanto. The
strong winds have
forced producers
to cultivate vines
by coiling them up,
while the volcanic
soil gives the grapes
a unique flavour.
Wine tasting tours
are organised by
local wineries. Some
of them are Sigalas
(between Oia and
Vourvoulos, Tel:
+30 2286071644),
Santo Wines
(Pyrgos, Tel: +30
22860 22596), a
cooperative of wine
60/SANTORINI

producers, Antoniou
Winery (Megalohori, Tel: +30 22860
23557) and Canava
Roussos (Mesa Gonia, Episkopi, Tel:
+30 22860 31349).
Eating in Santorini
can really be hit or
miss. Many tavernas
on the caldera have
very poor quality of
food because they
rely on their location
to attract visitors
instead of working
on a decent menu.
Beware of venues
with too many signs
and waiters prodding you to go in.
Good restaurants do
not need that kind
of advertising.
Life on the volcano
passes in style and
expectation. After
spending a day at
the beach, the same
question is raised
in peoples minds:

where will they

watch the sunset
from? On this
contest, Fira, Oia,
Imerovigli and Firostefani win over the
other villages hands
down. If you want
to find a seat in one
of the restaurants
or bars lining the
cliff, you have to be
there at least two
hours before the sun
sets, as privileged
seats - inside and
outside the bars - fill
up early. Otherwise,
you can join the
dozens of people
who crouch on
white roofs, empty
yards and other
available surfaces
to watch the sun
disappear behind
the horizon. When
the sun goes down
and the oppressive
heat recedes, it is
the perfect time to

get a drink. Firas

nightlife is livelier,
while Oia is best for
a quiet night out.

Getting
there: All major
ferry companies
offer several daily
routes to Santorini.
Santorini Airport
is also served by
two Greek carriers Olympic Air
and Aegean Air and
many international
airlines fly directly
to the island. Having
said this, we believe
Santorini should be
approached by boat.
The experience of
cruising between the
volcanic islets as you
approach Santorini
and the impact of
that first view of the
caldera from below
is a must.

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santorini

Mattonella

Marmita

Skala Restaurant

Ferentini Restaurant

FOOD&DRINK
01

Mattonella

fira, santorini,
tel: +30 6944959341

Ingredients and
quality are the most
important elements
for this ice cream
store. Fresh fruits
are used in sorbets;
fresh milk and cream
from Koukakis Farm
are used to make ice
cream, real cocoa and
chocolate from Barry
Callebaut. Matonella
is passionate about
quality and first class
ingredients. Theres
a wide variety of ice
cream flavours, frozen
yogurt with a topping
of your choice, chocolate ice cream, fior di
latte and other fruity
62/SANTORINI

flavours for every moment of the day.

02

Marmita

megalohoriou
square, santorini,
tel: +30 22860 81603,
6933146501

It is located in a
traditional village
that offers a different
perspective on the island, warmer and less
cosmopolitan. Sitting
at the top of a hill,
the restaurant enjoys
a view to the east
and is surrounded by
vineyards. The cuisine
is inspired by Greek
and Mediterranean
specialties, uniting
local products of Santorini with gourmet
flavours and a menu
based both on meat
and fresh fish. Dishes

like octopus in fava

beans, Marmita salad,
veal with prunes and
pasta and shrimps in
melted cheese prove
how well the flavours
combine.
03

Skala
Restaurant

oia, santorini, tel:

+30 22860 71362

Located in one of
Santorinis most picturesque villages, on
the main cobblestone
pedestrian walkway
of Oia, the restaurant
has a yard full of
flowers and scents to
welcome you. Enjoy
Greek classics made
with local produce
like oven sfougato
with zucchini and dill,
traditional aubergine
salad, sardines in the

oven with fresh tomato and oregano, fresh

cod in the oven with
olive oil, tomato and
vegetables, spicy meatballs with sauce and a
traditional baklava for
dessert. Combine the
food with wine from
traditional local wine
varieties, asyrtiko
from the ancient grape
variety found on the
island and mavrotragano, the indigenous
red variety with the
rich aroma.
04

Ferentini
Restaurant

oia, santorini, tel:

+30 22860 71825

A sister restaurant to
Skala, also in Oia,
it expands on two
open-air levels and
offers Mediterranean

LiFOce
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santorini

Kapari mezedopolio

Blue Monday RockabillyBar

Cremeria Vienna

specials. The kitchen

combines local recipes
with creative additions like the famous
Santorinian fava with
capers, red wine and
tomato marmalade,
moussaka with asparagus and cured beef,
shrimps with spicy
feta and fresh tomatoes and more, with
12 wine labels of local
and foreign wines to
accompany your food
and enjoy the Aegean
view spread before
your eyes.
05

Cremeria
Vienna

perissa beach,
santorini, tel: +30
6937 130509

The ideal spot for ice

cream, where Mrs
Alexandra makes
handmade ice cream
64/SANTORINI

Skiza Pizzeria -Caf Homemade Food & Patisserie

daily with fresh milk

and seasonal fruit.
The house specialties are melon and
pistachios. You may
also choose to place
your ice cream scoops
on top of a waffle
which she also makes
herself.

Skiza Pizzeria
-Caf
Homemade Food
& Patisserie
06

nikolaou nomikou,
oia, santorini, tel:
+30 22860 71569

Skiza awaits you all

hours of the day, at its
small balcony or the
terrace, with delicious
snacks and drinks to
fuel your body. Pizzas,
pasta and homemade
ice cream are the
specialties.

07

Kapari
mezedopolio

fira, santorini, tel:

+30 22860 27086

The mezedopolio is inspired by capers (thus

the name kapari) and
creates original and
unique recipes which
you will not find
elsewhere in the Cyclades. Apetizers like
wine leaves stuffed
with yogurt, pepers
stuffed with cheese
dip, aubergine rolls
with feta and tomato
sauce and main dishes
like chicken with artichokes and mustard,
rooster with wine and
rosemary, or the spicy
sausage of Santorini
are sure to satisfy
your hunger. Ouzo,
raki, beer and house
wine will refresh your

palate.
08

Blue Monday
RockabillyBar

fira, santorini

Blue Monday
RockabillyBar is a
brand new hangout
in Firaexpected to be
much talked about.
While the name alone
gives a first taste of
the uniquenightlife
experienceon offer
here, its not enough.
One visit will have
youcoming back
again and again.
Theunderground
spaceis very atmospheric, while thedecor
draws inspiration
from the 50s and
60sand, combined
with therock n
roll musical selections,will draw you
in, transporting you

LiFOce
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santorini

Sabbia Nera

Yazz

Anemos Beach Bar Restaurant

Sea Side Notos Restaurant

to another era. If you

just want to relax and
enjoy your drinks
or cocktails, there is
anoutside area, separated from the interior
bar by a passage, ideal
forchillingout amid
the magnificent views.
One of the strengths
of Blue Monday
Rockabilly Bar is the
extensive and detailed
cocktail list, which
covers all tastes. For
the more hardcore,
we highly recommend
theshooters(any
drink or cocktail you
like served as a shot!)
09

Sabbia Nera

kamari beach,
santorini, tel: +30
22860 33007

The name means

Black Sand and is
the new trattoria on
66/SANTORINI

the island, located

in Kamari, near the
beach. Lying at the
specially made lounge
chairs, you will enjoy
your swim drinking
coffee, juices and fresh
cocktails and after you
finish, you will dine in
an ideal environment.
You will try Italian
flavours with a focus
on pasta and seafood,
made from experienced chefs and have a
glass of wine.
10

Yazz

perissa beach,
santorini, tel: +30
6940 570457

A beach bar-restaurant you can choose

for breakfast; you
may try the fresh fruit
juices and smoothies
made of tropical fruits
or some traditional

Greek recipes. In the

evening, it becomes
the absolute beach
bar. Sun loungers on
the beach, tropical
cocktails and music
nights with live bands
or DJs complete the
ideal scenery.

Anemos
Beach Bar
Restaurant
11

perivolos, santorini,
tel: +30 22860 82220
& 82540

We will bring you

your cocktail,
champagne or wine
while youre lying
on a lounge chair on
the beach of Agios
Georgios or Perivolos,
with the black sand
or you may go to the
bar and watch it being
made. If you want to
eat, you will enjoy

Modern Greek cuisine

either at the restaurant
or on the beach, at
a place which will
be set up by Anemos
staff for you and your
company.

Sea Side
Notos
Restaurant
12

agios georgios beach,

perivolos,
tel: +30 22860 82801

If youre looking for

a restaurant on the
beach with gourmet
cuisine and a lounge
bar, you will find it at
Perivolos in Santorini.
The chef has created
a menu based on the
Mediterranean cuisine
with a few tropical
elements. After your
dinner, visit the bar to
try the original cocktails and enjoy ethnic

LiFOce
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santorini

Smag Gallerie

Feggera

and lounge music.

13

Feggera

megalohori,
santorini, tel: +30
22860 82930

On the terrace of a
town house in the
beautiful village of
Magalohori, the
restaurant waits for
you to enjoy Aegean
flavours and watch
the moon rise slowly.
The people of Feggera
have combined the
pure flavours of organic Cretan products
with the traditional
recipes of Santorini
and the products of
its arid land. It also
offers cooking lessons
where you learn all its
culinary secrets so that
you will be able to
make the same recipes
for your friends and
68/SANTORINI

Ammos

enjoy them with a

bottle of wine from
Santorini.

SHOPPING
01

Smag Gallerie

messaria, thira
(atelier), tel: +30
22860 33269 /pyrgos,
thira (gallery), tel:
+30 22860 27134

A new arrival on the

island, as its been
only a year since the
artist and sculptor
of marble Grigoris
Kouskouris opened
his first personal space
where he presents his
work. Kouskouris has
been working with
marble for about 20
years. This year he
returns with a second
space, in an area
where marble sculp-

tures and old furniture

stand side by side. The
space is called Spira
Marble Art Gallery
(SMAG) and visitors
can be toured and
presented to the works
exhibited. Occasionally, Kouskouris offers
classes in marble
sculpture.
02

Ammos

fira, tel: +30

22860 28744, kamari,
tel: +30 22860 32801,
oia, tel: +30 22860
72272

The absolute fashion

point on Santorini that
keeps expanding every
year. The two stores
in Fira and Kamari are
now joined by another
one in Oia. Ammos
is the right choice
for stylish mens and
womens clothing,

accessories and shoes.

Well-known and less
known brands like
Wild Fox, Moncler,
Missoni, Dsquared,
Diane von Furstenberg, Hale Bob,
Mes Demoiselles,
Rivieras, Vilbrequin,
Sundek, Pantone,
Pedro Garcia, Ash,
One Tea Spoon, Fine
Collection, American
Vintage, but also
creations by Greek
designers await you to
make them an integral
part of your style.

Asimis
Kolaitou Art
Foundation
03

fira, santorini, tel:

+30 22860 23041

Two painters and

brothers, Christoforos
and Katonas Asimis,
along with the jewel-

LiFOce
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santorini

Art Shop

lery and sculptor artist

Eleni Kolaitou, united
their artistry and
experience to create
three venues for art
and creation. One
of them is found on
the island and houses
the creations of all
three artists. Paintings portraying the
light and scenery of

Magia Art Gallery

Santorini, photographic sculptures,

bronze sculptures,
ceramics and jewellery
will stimulate your
vision and excite your
imagination.
04

Art Shop

megalochori,
santorini, tel: +30
22860 85348

05

Magia Art
Gallery

megalohori,
santorini, tel: +30
6970458284

Maria Christina
Fungini is an art expert with 30 years
of experience in
Rome and London
through her art gallery, MAGIA. Maria

decided to transfer
this experience on the
island of Santorini,
at the traditional
village of Megalohori,
where she exhibits
in one space works
by local and foreign
artists, who are active
in various fields like
painting, sculpture
and jewellery making.

LiFOce
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santorini

Galini Hotel Villas Caf

Roberto Donatelli,
professor of painting in the School of
Fine Arts in Rome,
Matteo Peretti,
known sculptor and
performer and jewellery makers Princess
Lucia Odescalchi,
Ginevra Pancelti,
Panos Apergis and
Paolo Mangana, who
works with Italian
artists, are all showcasing their work in
Magia for locals and
tourists to enjoy.
06

Books & Style

fira, santorini,
tel: +30 22860 24510

This bookstore is
unique on the island,
possibly in the Cyclades too, because of
its architecture and
aesthetics, but mostly
because of its content. Those of you
who love to read and
enjoy sitting alone
with a favourite book
in your hands during
the holidays, this is
the place for you.
Theres a variety of
72/SANTORINI

titles provided by
Eleftheroudakis
bookstore.

ACCOMMODATION
01

Galini Hotel
Villas Caf

firostefani,
santorini, tel: +30
22860 22095

In Firostefani, next to
the famous and inactive island volcano,
hotel Galini offers
fully equipped rooms
and villas. You can
enjoy your coffee and
snack in the hotels
caf. Room amenities
include fridge, drier,
safe, digital TV, Wi
Fi and many more,
while in the two
villas there are panoramic verandas and
Jacuzzi. At the caf
you will be served
juices, coffee, tea,
yogurt, toast, marmalades, omelettes,
fruit, etc. The hotel
also arranges your
transportation at a
small cost.

LiFOce
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santorini

Caldera Yachting

02

Caldera
Yachting

fira, santorini, tel:

+30 22860 23000

By choosing a day
or half-day sail trip
with one of the fully
equipped boats of the

company, which abide

by the highest standards, you will have
the unique opportunity to live the islands
contrasts to the fullest,
getting to see amazing
places which are often

inaccessible with other

means of transportation. You will also
experience places
which exemplify the
unique scenery and
beauty of the island.
The experience and

professionalism of the
crew ensure a high
quality service, but
also that you are very
comfortable, so that
your trip around the
island is remembered
as a unique experience.
The main boat of the
fleet is Atlantis whose
captain, Manolis
Damigos, has been
traveling in the seas
for the last 30 years
and is accompanied by
a crew who is there
to satisfy your needs
and demands. It has a
capacity of 20 people,
4 cabins, 4 WC, two
living rooms, air
conditioner, TV, sound
system. On all the
boats, the cruise package includes transport
to and from the hotel,
lunch, unlimited drinks
and diving gear.

LiFOce
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santorini

Loizos Car Rental

Navys Waterworld

03

Loizos Car
Rental

kamari, santorini,
tel: +30 22860 31749

Here is where youll

rent your transportation to travel around
the island. The
agency will manage
your transportation
from the moment
you arrive at the port
until the moment you
leave. All you have to
do is choose among
the many models
of cars and you
may enjoy free theft
insurance, delivery
and receipt of the car
wherever you choose,
free and unlimited
kilometres, 24-hour
service wherever you
are, a map of the
island and, of course,
cars which have been
76/SANTORINI

checked and are

reliable.
04

Navys
Waterworld

kamari beach,
santorini, tel: +30
22860 28190

Its the only PADI 5

Star Dive Center on
the Cyclades and one
of the first Cousteau
Divers dive centers in
the world. Enjoy the
underwater beauty of
Santorini, daily snorkel safaris and two
tank dive trips. Its
diving and snorkeling
spots include lava
caverns, reefs, wall
diving, wrecks, volcanic shorelines and
the recently created
Marine Protected
Area. Nitrox and
night dives available.

/THE

GREEK
ISLANDS
FOR
VISITORS/

Paros

Buzzing with energy

and beautiful people,
this is the place to be
if you want to experience
the real Cyclades!

78/PAROS

/THE
GREEK
ISLANDS paros
FOR
VISITORS/

Right at the heart of

the Cyclades, Paros
beautifully combines aspects of all
the other Cycladic
islands; the striking white houses
of Folegandros,
the cosmopolitanism of Mykonos,
the spirituality of
Tinos, the variety
of Naxos and the
beaches of Ios.
Since antiquity,
Paros has been was
known for its white
marble, mined at
the area of Marathi,
five kilometres
away from Parikia.
The high quality

80/PAROS

marble proved very

profitable through
the centuries and
was used to make
three of the most
celebrated sculptures in the world;
the Venus de Milo
(also known as
Aphrodite of Milos,
displayed at the
Louvre), Hermes
and the Infant Dionysus (also known
as Hermes of Praxiteles, displayed at
the Archaeological
Museum of Olympia) and Nike of
Samothrace (also at
the Louvre). Mining
stopped during

the Byzantine era

but restarted when
the island was
conquered by the
Venetians. It continued uninterrupted
until the late 19th
century when the
mine was closed
down. The marble
quarries have for
the most part survived intact.
As the boat approaches to the
main port and
town, Parikia, you
are greeted by the
old white windmill, a favourite
meeting point for
tourists before they

/THE
GREEK
ISLANDS paros
FOR
VISITORS/

embark on their
nightly escapades. It
is the liveliest part
of the island, with
hotels, cafs, shops
and bars lining the
seafront and many
more scattered
around the back
streets. The islands
long history is exhibited in the small
Archaeological
Museum in Parikia
(Tel: +30 22840
21231, open TueSun 08:30-15:00).
The most important
find is a fragment of
the Parian Chronicle, a chronology of
key events in Greece
from 1,500 BC to
264 BC but you will
also see the torso of
Artemis in motion,
from the 4th century
BC. Just behind the
museum are the
remains of three
Hellenistic houses,
as well as beautiful mosaics from
the 3rd century
BC. At the heart of
82/PAROS

the old town lies

the Venetian castle
built by Marco
Sanudo, Venetian
Duke of Naxos,
in 1260 AD using
pieces of ancient
temples and other
buildings. Walking
around Parikia will
inevitably bring you
outside Panagia
Ekatontapiliani (Tel:
+30 22840 21243,
church open 07:3021:30, museum
open 09:30-14:00
& 18:00-21:00) the
4th century compound comprised
of three churches
Agios Nikolaos, the
Church of Our Lady
and the Baptistry
- and a Byzantine
museum.
Naoussa, on the
north coast, stands
out with its scenic
harbour and the
whitewashed houses
and shops. What
started as a small
fishing village has
transformed into a

lively town with its

own gastronomic
world and nightlife
which somehow
seems to attract
a more eclectic
(and older) crowd.
Close to Naoussa is
Kolimbithres, one of
the most impressive
beaches with light
blue waters and
smooth grey rocks.
On the east coast
are the tranquil villages of Piso Livadi
and Logaras. Both
villages have sandy
beaches, tavernas and cafs and
are popular with
families and those
who want to avoid
the crowded beaches
further south. Piso
Livadi has plenty of
small bars to enjoy
a cold beer in the
evening and watch
the sunset.
Taking the road
back to Parikia
from Piso Livadi,
you arrive at the
mountain village of

Lefkes, right in the

middle of Paros.
Picturesque Lefkes,
with its cubed
whitewashed houses
which resemble sugar lumps, have resisted the pressures
of package tourism,
maintaining its
slow paced life and
unspoilt architecture. The Church of
Agia Triada, made
entirely of Parian
white marble, is
visible from every
part of the village.
If youre in Paros at
the end of August,
do not miss the local
panigiri on the 29th
dedicated to Agios
Yannis Kaparos.
The celebrations
spill out in the vineyards and orchards
at the gardens of
the local monastery.
When you get hungry, find To Thasos
for a home-cooked
meal and a majestic
view.
Paros is home to
many sports, including water skiing,
diving, horse-back
riding, mountainbiking, Go-Karting,
bungee jumping,
beach volleyball and
hiking. However,
the most popular
sports on the island
are windsurfing
and kitesurfing. In
fact, the kite surfing
world cup is held
here regularly and
there are some top
notch kitesurfing
schools at Pounda

/THE
GREEK
ISLANDS paros
FOR
VISITORS/

beach for all aspiring athletes. Most

sports facilities
can be found at
Santa Maria, Kolimbithres, Farangas
and Monastiri. If
youre interested
in discovering the
underwater world
of Paros look no
further than the Aegean Diving College
(ADC) (Hrisi Akti,
Tel: +30 22840
43347, +30 6932
289649, www.
aegeandiving.gr)
which offers courses
and organises diving
trips. ADC is run
by Peter Nicolaides,
an experienced
diver, oceanographer, biologist and
offshore engineer
who has worked
on expeditions
with the National
Geographic Foundation and Jacques
Yves Cousteau. The
coastal area is full of
wrecks, interesting
84/PAROS

rock formations and

caves and ADC organises trips to all of
them, depending on
your diving skills.
A popular day trip
is crossing to Antiparos Island (1km
southwest of Paros
and the next island
in the guide), the
somewhat quieter
sibling of Paros. The
boats leave daily
from the ferry quay
of Pounta beach.
The hinterland has
several wetlands like
Santa Maria, Molos,
Hrisi Akti, Aliki
and Kambos which
serve as havens for
migrating birds like
cormorants and
eagles. Unfortunately, many birds
and other types of
wildlife fall prey
to hunters or are
otherwise injured.
In 1995, the Aegean
Wildlife Hospital
Alkioni (area of
Kamares, Tel: +30

22840 22931,
email: alkioniparos@yahoo.gr)
opened its doors to
treat wildlife from
all over Greece.
Since its opening
it has expanded
its facilities to deal
with the increasing
number of injured
birds, while at the
same time trying to
educate the public
on environmental
issues. You can organise a visit to the
hospital by calling
ahead or email. The
hospital is always in
need of volunteers
and donations, so
feel free to help any
way you can.
Just like Naxos, Paros has a significant
agricultural production, starting from
top quality olive oil,
vegetables, fruits,
gourmet cheeses like
graviera, touloumisio and ladotiri and
wine. Locals also

think highly of the

local caper added
in Greek salads
and the alcoholic
drink souma, which
resembles raki. The
vineyards produce
two local varieties of
grapes, manthilaria
(red) and monemvasia (white), which
have been assigned
the PDO tag (Protected Designation
of Origin).
Eating is a feast
in Paros, which,
like Mykonos and
Naxos, offers a wide
range of eateries and
cuisines.
The bar crawls
in Paros start at
the waterfront of
Parikia and continues where the music
is louder. There
are countless bars
and clubs to choose
from and sometimes
the insane number
of people gathering
outside their doors
means that the one
you choose may just
be the one which
you can actually
get in.
Getting
there: There are
many daily ferry and
catamaran services
connecting Piraeus
and Rafina ports with
Paros and Olympic
Air flies daily to the
island. For ferry
and airline websites
check the Getting to
and from the islands
section.

LiFOce
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paros

Yria hotel resort

Minas Closet

Yemeni Win Restaurant

Bit of Salt

01

Yria hotel
resort

yria hotel resort paros - tel. +30 22840

24154
email - info@yriahotel.gr - web site www.
yriahotel.gr

At the west of Paros,

at the Parasporos
cove, in a valley full
of vineyards, olive
trees, orchards and
more than 200 kinds
of trees and birds,
Yria Hotel Resort
promises quietness and
rest, but also plenty of
activities to do. The
Cycladic architecture
and the colours of the
Aegean are all around
the 22,000-sq-meter
area. There is a wide
variety of accommodation on offer: simple
rooms for two, slightly
larger rooms, small
suites, condos, large
suites and houses, each
with its own amenities. The resort has
a gym, a spa, a pool,
tennis court, Nefeli
restaurant, Nefeli bar,
a gallery where you can
buy souvenirs, a library
86/PAROS

to relax reading. It is
also very close to many
of Paros sites.
02

Minas Closet

palia agora,
parikia, paros, tel: +30
22840 25057

In spring 2010, Mina

Katratzaki decided
to open her own
girly shop, after
years of working in
fashion magazines,
participating in many
art exhibitions and
charity benefits for
handmade jewellery
and accessories. Mina
Katratzaki gives advice
on fashion trends and
helps create a style. Her
creations have been
worn by many Greek
actresses on stage.
Apart from her own
handmade jewellery
and accessories. In her
boutique she also has
vintage collections,
bohemian, casual, girly
and styles from
Greek designers like
Philosophy, Belleville
Clothing, Christina
Beautiful Life, Valia
Gabriel sandals, but

also foreign brands

like Tenki London,
Numph, Empathie and
Beck Sonder Gaard
bags.
03

Yemeni Win
Restaurant

naousa, paros, tel:

+30 22840-51445

Yemeni first opened

its doors to customers
in 2007 in Naoussa
of Paros, willing to
change the way we had
all got used to looking
at modern restaurants
today. In contrast to
the life of new where
everything speeds up
and gets modernized,
we created a place to
dine using ingredients
that respect the islands
produce and traditions.
Yemeni means see
through scarf which
local women used to
wear on their heads.
The word actually has
Turkish roots but has
been used for ages by
villagers and a word
we often hear in many
traditional Greek songs
and tales.
In our restaurant we

use fruit and vegetables

grown on our farm
or purchased from
local farmers. All the
ingredients used in
our restaurant are free
from chemicals and
pesticides. As our ingredients are not frozen,
some of our dishes are
seasonal and may not
be available. The bread
served in our restaurant
is made at home in a
traditional wood oven
and our family also
produces the olive oil.
Naoussa Paros
Tel:22840-51445.
04

Bit of Salt

naoussa,
tel: +30 22840 28625,
asteras,tel: +30 22840
42757, www.bitofsalt.
gr

Fashion & Watersports. 2 shops on the

island. Here you will
find equipment for
windsurf, kitesurf and
other water sports, but
also a wide variety of
beachwear, fashionwear & accessories for
adults and kids.

/THE
GREEK
ISLANDS antiparos
FOR
VISITORS/

Antiparos

Antiparos is a
small island off
the south-western
coast of Paros. The
island is one of the
first alongside
Mykonos which
allowed nudism in the 1970s.
What started as
an off-the-beatentrack destination
for rockers and
camping lovers
has in the last few
years turned into
a cosmopolitan,
mainstream land of
expensive property
and loud nightlife.
The whole island
has two main
streets, one leading
to Agios Yorgis, the
only other village
on the island, and
88/ANTIPAROS

the other leading to Sifneiko, a

beach to the north.
Life on the island
concentrates on the
main village, also
called Antiparos,
which is basically an extension
of the port. The
village has many
cafs, small grocery
stores, bars and
tavernas scattered
around. During
the day, you could
be excused for
thinking Antiparos
village is deserted,
as theres hardly
anyone walking
around. The village
comes to life in
the evening, when
sunburned tourists
amble along the

cobbled streets,
looking for a place
to eat. Thankfully,
cars are not allowed
in the village.
Walking past the
Church of Agios
Nikolaos at the
central square, you
will see the Kastro
(castle), the old
fortified settlement, built in the
13th century by
the usual suspect,
Marco Sanudo,
the Venetian Duke
of Naxos. The
flat roofed houses
inside the Kastro
have been well
preserved and they
are typically built in
a square. Watch for
the emblem of the
Venetian Democ-

racy which has

survived on a wall
over the balcony
of a house right
behind the Church
of Christ.
Atop the hill of
Agios Yannis at the
south-eastern part
of the island is the
Cave of Antiparos,
where the stalactite
and stalagmite formations make for
an extraordinary
sight. The staircase
will lead you down
the well-lit cave
where you will see
a flat formation
named altar after
a Christmas mass
that took place here
in 1673 by French
Ambassador Marquis de Nouantel.

To get there, take

the bus or a boat
from Antiparos
village.
History buffs will
love Despotiko
Island, found off the
southwestern tip of
Antiparos, where an
ancient sanctuary
of Apollo was discovered unharmed
in the 19th century.
The sanctuary was
used from the 7th
century until Roman times and its
most significant find
is a large female
figurine, probably a
goddess, as well as
a building complex
of five rooms. The
island was inhabited until the 17th
century, when

French pirates killed

all the inhabitants.
There are daily boat
trips from Antiparos
village. Back to Antiparos town, visit
the small Folklore
Museum (inside
Kastro, Tel: +30
22840 61005, open
daily 08:00-14:00,
except Sat, Sun) for
a look at traditional
everyday objects
and costumes, as
well as Cycladic
figurines.
The island may be
small, but there
is no shortage of
beaches to swim.
Agios Sostis and
Faneromeni are
the prettiest, with
turquoise waters.
Faneromeni is

divided in two very

small bays; the one
in the north is rocky
and the other one is
sandy. Close to the
main village, Agios
Spyridonas has shallow waters making
it ideal for families
with kids. The
same applies for 1st
Psaraliki, which has
sun loungers and
umbrellas. For those
who like crowded
beaches, head to
2nd Psaraliki, where
you can play volleyball or do some
people - watching
under the tamarisks.
Livadi beach has
sand but no shade,
while Apantima is
small with a rocky
sea bottom, making

it ideal for snorkelling.

Surfers will love
Sifneiko, but regular
swimmers usually
avoid it because of
the layer of seaweeds washed out
on the beach and
the constant winds.
For those who prefer nudism, head to
the east of the island
or the beach next to
the camping site at
Theologos (Camping Antiparos, Tel:
+30 22840 61221),
where it is officially
allowed. The calm
waters of the camping are filled with
nudists from all
walks of life from
old tanned hippies
to young couples

/THE
GREEK
ISLANDS antiparos
FOR
VISITORS/

and kids.
The sea bottom
around Antipaross
coastline is rocky,
making it ideal for
scuba diving. Blue
Island Divers (www.
blueisland-divers.
gr, Tel: +30 22840
61767) organise
diving expeditions
in several sites to
observe schools of
small colourful fish,
reefs, tunas, canyons
and shipwrecks. The
diving site depends
on the experience of
the participants and
is always headed by
qualified instructors
and dive masters.
Antiparos village
also has a beautiful
open air cinema,
Oliaros, showing a
different movie almost every night, at
90/ANTIPAROS

21:30. To complete
the experience, buy
something to munch
from the bar at the
back.
The tavernas and
bars are conveniently gathered at
the main square of
Antiparos village, so
you will not need to
do much walking.
The islands nightlife
is more intense than
you might expect.
Bars stay open usually until 3am. The
older bars in the
village still play classic rock tunes (Bob
Dylan, Doors etc.) to
an ever-diminishing
number of greyhaired customers.
Interestingly, the
other type of music
that never went out
of fashion here is

disco.
To relieve your aching body from all
the swimming and
boozing, surrender
yourself to the capable hands of Roula Papathanasiou, a
therapist practising
Reiki and Thai
massage. Roula is
in Antiparos in July
and August and
can be contacted
at: newenergyrp@
gmail.com and her
mobile: +30 6945
104810.
Before you leave,
make sure you try
the following delicious local foods:
xinomizithra cheese
(Sinioris restaurant
at Antiparos village
has the best), rabbit casserole and
mizithra cheese.

Getting
there: There
are no direct ferry
services from Athens
to Antiparos. You
take a ferry to Paros
and from there it is a
short boat ride to the
island. Boats leave
from the main port of
Paros (Parikia) every
half hour during high
season and are timed
to coincide with the
arrival of the large
ferries from Athens.
Alternatively, you
can take the bus from
Parikia to Pounta and
from there the open
ferry to Antiparos
which takes about
five minutes. During
high season, the open
ferry runs every half
hour until 15:00 and
afterwards every one
hour.

LiFOce
i
cho
antiparos

Anargyros

Antiparos Senses concept store

01

Anargyros

antiparos, tel:
+30 22840 61204

The oldest restaurant

and hotel establishment
in Antiparos (operating
since 1925) continues
to offer excellent hospitality to its customers.
Your taste buds will be
fully satisfied with the
exquisite Mediterra92/ANTIPAROS

nean cuisine, cooked

with ingredients mostly
produced by its owners. Anargyros is situated close to the beach
and other hot spots of
the island.

Antiparos
Senses
Concept Store
02

antiparos 84 007, tel:

+30 22840 28845

Let your senses travel

you in a world of appeal and luxury!
Enjoy the summer with
products from Molton
Brown, Crabtree and
Evelyn, Agema, Ahava
and the amazing mineral make up of Jane
Iridale.
Discover unique pieces
for your home from

the collections of Kare

design and Nordal
and create a special
environment in your
favourite space with
the scents Dr. Vranjes
Firenze and candles
Yankee candle and Durance. We wait for you
with many more ideas
for gifts you and your
loved ones will enjoy.

LiFOce
i
cho
antiparos

Despotiko caf-bar

03

Despotiko
Caf-Bar

agios georgios,
antiparos, tel: +30
6974 148276

With a view overlooking Despotiko cove,

which gave its name
to the caf, you will
admire the sunset and
watch the sailboats go
by every day. Relax

La luna

with a cup of coffee

and juice in the morning, switch to fresh
salads and beer in the
afternoon and in the
evening have a drink
or cocktail. Listening
to lounge melodies,
you will see everyone
in Antiparos go by.

04

La Luna
antiparos

A few kilometres out

of the village, where
most bars are, is the
only disco on the
island and one of
the few found in the
Cyclades. From 3am
onwards, the disco
throws after - parties,
which take you back

in time in the 80s

when having fun
resembled Dionysian
ceremonies. Here you
will drink mainly beer
and you will dance
under the disco ball
until you hear the
rooster crow. You do
not want to miss this
experience.

Camping Antiparos

05

Bali Cocktail
Bar

antiparos, tel: +30

698 051 1845

On the central
square, you will find
a yard with friendly
atmosphere and
Cycladic dcor which
fills up every day
with people, laughter
and voices, as it is
the islands meeting
point. With an exotic
cocktail with fruits in
your hand and music
set at a chat-friendly
volume, this yard
will make you feel relaxed and refreshed.

Bali cocktail bar

95/ANTIPAROS

06

Camping
Antiparos

tel: +30 22840 61221,

www.campingantiparos.gr

Comfortable, clean
camping site located
in an area of lush
vegetation right next
to one of the most
beautiful beaches
of Antiparos. The
camping site includes
a mini market and a
self-service restaurant
with Mediterranean
cuisine.

/THE

GREEK
ISLANDS
FOR
VISITORS/

Naxos
So many choices for everyone on this island. Not just
swimming and night life,
but also amazing places
to see, super food and
of course sighseeing.

96/NAXOS

/THE
GREEK
ISLANDS Naxos
FOR
VISITORS/

Naxos Island is the

biggest in the Cyclades and you will
definitely need a car
to get around. The
island thrived during the Byzantine
era and the numerous pretty churches
spread across
the inland are a
testament to this
heritage. Myth has
it that this is where
Zeus, the king of
ancient Greek gods,
was raised and
where he launched
his efforts to take
over the throne in
Mt. Olympus. Locals have given his
98/NAXOS

name to the islands

tallest mountain,
Zeus (also known
as Zas).
Even from the boat,
visitors to Naxos
can see the 6-metrehigh Portara (gate)
sticking out from
the dry land to the
left of the port.
It is part of the
unfinished temple
ofApollo, whose
construction began
in the middle of
the 6th century
BC but was never
completed. Just like
in other islands, the
capital and port is
called Hora, whose

historic centre
reveals a beautiful,
medieval town. The
town, also known
as Kastro (castle),
was built by the
Venetian Duke
of Naxos, Marco
Sanudo (who also
built the kastro of
Antiparos), in the
13th century. Wandering around the
old town with its
very well preserved
Venetian buildings
flanking the narrow
alleys, you feel like
youve stumbled
upon a film set,
half-expecting a
knight in shining

armour to appear
from a corner.
Inside the Kastro,
the Archaeological
Museum (Tel: +30
22850 22725, open
Tue-Sun 08:0015:00) housed in a
listed building that
used to be Sanudos
palace, has artefacts
dating from the
Late Neolithic
period to the Early
Christian times.
The highlights
are the amazing
mosaic representing the abduction
of Europe from
Zeus and the large
collection of marble

/THE
GREEK
ISLANDS Naxos
FOR
VISITORS/

figurines (Cycladic
among them), vessels and amphorae.
The palace itself was
built from 1600 to
1800 and is in itself
a highlight. The
islands Historical
Archives are now
housed in what
used to be a French
school, where writer
Nikos Kazantzakis,
Greeces greatest
modern writer, attended briefly.
Antico Veneziano
(Tel: +30 22850
22702) is a stunning 800-year-old
mansion which
has been restored
to its former glory
by the Dellaroka
family and operates
as an antique store.
The old ornately
carved wooden
100/NAXOS

furniture and the

porcelains and
silverware found
in the mansion are
displayed beautifully for the visitors.
Della Rocca-Barozzi
Venetian Museum(Tel: +30 22850
22386, open daily
10:00-23:00) inside
the castle showcases
medieval everyday
objects and, during
the summer, hosts
cultural activities,
such as concerts
of classical music
and art exhibitions.
Your medieval tour
is completed with
the Capuchins monastery and the 13th
century Catholic
Cathedral.
There is plenty of
walking and exploring to do inland, so

open your map and

take notes. Apiranthosis Naxo's most
beautifully preserved village. This
small village has set
up three museums:
the Archaeological
Museum (open TueSun, 08:30-15:00)
with interesting
rock paintings and
other artefacts, the
Museum of Natural
History (Tue-Sun,
08:30-15:00) exhibiting rocks and
dolphin skeletons
and the Geology
Museum (open TueSun, 08:30-15:00)
housing lots of rock
formations from the
island and abroad.
Your tour around
the island will inevitably bring you to
Tragaea, a large val-

ley at the centre of

Naxos, dotted with
half a dozen sleepy
villages. The quaint
village of Filoti, the
largest of the group,
is built amphitheatrically over the fertile valley cultivated
with olive trees and
orchards. Further
down towards
Hora, you encounter
Halki village, which
has more Venetian
tower houses, the
most famous of
which is Gratsia
Pyrgos. In the same
village, the family
Vallindras (Tel: +30
22850 31220) has
been making Kitron,
an alcoholic beverage made of citrus,
in the same distillery
since 1896. The
visitor is invited to

/THE
GREEK
ISLANDS Naxos
FOR
VISITORS/

observe the process

and try Kitron and
other products. Koronos is a mountainous village whose
inhabitants used to
work in the nearby
emery mines. Today
locals are involved
in farming and
agriculture. Your
next stop should be
Melanes, built on
the side of a gorge.
The highlight is a
tall Kouros statue
(male statue) situated in the countryside close the village,
dating to the 6th
century BC. Close
to the village, in
the area of Kalamitsa, is the old Jesuit
Palace, built in the
17th century, which
served as the residence of the Jesuit
monks. Another gi102/NAXOS

ant Kouros lies in an

ancient quarry close
to Apollonas village,
at the northern tip
of the island. There
are more antiquities to see towards
Sangri, at the area
Gyroulas; the Doric
Temple of Demeter,
built between 530520 BC which is
made entirely out of
white marble.
Another majestic tower is the
Hellenistic Pirgos
Himarrou (a tower)
situated in an area
beyond the mountain of Zeus (Zas).
Apart from sightseeing, Naxos is all
about swimming.
The coast north of
Hora is rocky and
is usually avoided,
but if you go south,
you will have a

lot of coves to
choose from. Agios
Prokopios andAgia
Annaoffer the
usual triptych of sun
loungers, umbrellas
and water sports
(diving included). At
the area of Marangas, below Agia
Anna, are a series of
small beaches which
you can explore
one by one. On the
west coast, the sand
dunes which form
Plaka beach attract
nudists. Agiasos is a
quiet beach overrun
by families, while
Apollonas at the
north is protected
from the winds.
Naxos, like Paros,
attracts windsurfers thanks to the
summer meltemia
winds that sweep
the island. Beaches

like Mikri Vigla are

dotted with colourful sails swooshing
up and down the
waves. Mikri Ammos to the west is
a beautiful sandy
beach but its a long
way out.
Unlike the rest of
the Cyclades, Naxos
has a fertile land
and agriculture is
widely developed.
The Naxiot potatoes
are considered the
best and are shipped
to the supermarkets
of mainland Greece.
As you travel
inland, you will discover the orchards
and vineyards which
produce wine, figs,
olive oil and citrus.
Another source of
income comes from
farming and islanders are proud to

LiFOce
i
cho

naxos

present their own

cheese at the table.
When eating out,
ask for arseniko
kefalotiri, graviera,
glikia mizithra
(all flavoursome
cheeses) and order
xinogalo to drink
(a type of goats
milk).
Since Naxiots eat
what they produce,
most tavernas
serve good quality
specialties from
ingredients growing in their back
garden. When the
sun has set, it is
time for a movie
and a drink. Naxos
is more family oriented, but you will
also come across
groups of teenagers
having their fun in
the sun and in the
104/NAXOS

bars. Most of the

action is centred
in Hora and the
villages south of
the main port.
Cine Astra (Tel:
+30 2285025381)
is close to Protodikiou Square and
shows new releases
at 21:00 and at
23:00.

Getting
there: There are
many daily ferry and
catamaran services
connecting Piraeus
and Rafina ports
with Naxos and
Olympic Air flies
daily to the island.
For ferry and airline
websites check the
Getting to and from
the islands section.

LiFOce
i
cho

naxos

Ippokampos Hotel & Restaurant

Porto Naxos

Ippokampos
Hotel &
Restaurant
01

agios georgios beach,

naxos, tel: +30 22850
24648

In an authentic Cycladic building where

everything is painted
white, you will find a
beautiful place to stay
or/and eat. The rooms
are equipped with TV,
air con, safe, beach
towels and of course
breakfast is served. In
the all-day lounge restaurant you will taste
food inspired from the
Mediterranean, looking at the view over
Agios Georgios beach
and listening to the
sound of the waves.
106/NAXOS

Citron

02

Porto Naxos

agios georgios
beach, naxos, tel: +30
22850 23970-71-72

Hospitality, comfort
and tranquillity. These
three words summarise the philosophy of
the people who created this hotel and its
guests. Porto Naxos
has a traditional
Cycladic architecture
and decoration and
an impressive garden
which will satisfy your
needs. The rooms
include air condition,
cable TV, mini bar,
wireless internet, a
safe and other common features. You
may enjoy your meals
at the hotel restaurant
and later go to the bar

or the pool bar for a

drink. In the hotel spa
you will achieve absolute relaxation. Ask
the staff to transport
you to and from the
hotel, give you bikes
to ride, inform you
about sights around
the island and sign
you up for group
tours or sports.
03

Citron

halki, naxos,
tel: +30 22850 31220

With an ancient tradition, the Vallindra

family has been distilling the leaves of citron
for 115 years, in its
neoclassical building,
to make the unique
Vallindra Citron of
Naxos. It is a process

the visitor has the

opportunity to watch
from its beginning,
from the distilling
phase, which happens
in the same distiller
used since 1896, until
the tasting of citron
Vallindra right at the
source, the House of
Citron. It is definitely
a unique experience,
but if you dont have
time, you may visit the
store in Hora, where
you will find all its
products and will be
able to taste and buy
them.
04

Stis Irinis

hora of naxos,
tel: +30 22850 26780

The authentic island

and Greek traditional

Mojo Bar

Ocean Dance Club

Stis Irinis

Girasole

cuisine has turned it

into one of the most
famous places on the
island and the Cyclades. The menu includes
salads, meze, casserole
dishes, grilled meat
and seafood, all made
of local ingredients
with traditional recipes. The plants and
flowers in the restaurant, which are taken
care of by Irini, create
a unique environment.
It is situated next to
the port.
05

Mojo Bar

paralia choras,
naxos, tel: +30 22850
27034

An impressive scenery
unfolds before your
eyes tuning you into

the absolute summer

mood. The immortal
Aegean sunset, the
elaborated Cycladic
architecture and our
high quality service
turn a simple night
out into a unique and
pleasurable experience.
Situated on the seafront at the paralia
of Naxos town, Mojo
Bar introduces you to
the relaxing atmosphere of the best open
air cocktail Bar in the
early sunset and continues till the sunrise
with funky, disco, soul
and house, rhythms.
The unique style, the
delightful cocktails
(reasonably priced),
the professional

bartenders along with

world known DJs,
famous events, parties
and acts complete
the absolute nightlife
experience Mojo Bar
wishes to provide to
its guests.

Ocean Dance
06
Club
paralia choras, tel:
+30 22850 27034

Since 1987, Ocean

Club is definitely the
place where the heart
of Dionysuss island
beats. Nightclubbing is at its best in a
unique environment
of modern Cycladic
architecture, amazing
atmosphere, famous
DJ, parties and events.
The place to see and

be seen. Easy to find.

Just ask anybody on
the island.
07

Girasole

portara, hora
of naxos, tel: +30
22850 23326

The first Italian trattoria in Naxos has

been around for 16
years on the island
and locals and tourists
alike have always told
us how pleased they
are with our food.
Girasole combines
Italian specials with
ingredients from Naxos, like the 40 types of
handmade pizzas and
the 25 types of pasta.
The trattoria also has
a good wine list.

108/SYROS

/THE

GREEK
ISLANDS
FOR
VISITORS/

Syros
The Capital of Cyclades
is a magical and buzzing
place with extraordinary
history.

/THE
GREEK
ISLANDS syros
FOR
VISITORS/

Elegant, busy and full

of history, Syros is unlike any other Cycladic
island. Inhabited since
antiquity, it linked
its fortune with the
Venetians, who took
control of the island in
1207 and stayed until
their defeat from the
Ottomans, leading it
to a period of great
economic development
and the forming of the
largest community of
Catholics in Greece.
Apart from tourism,
the local economy is
based on agriculture,
110/SYROS

ship-building and
services, giving Syros
a less touristy feel.
The capital and main
port, Ermoupoli, is the
administrative centre
of the South Aegean
region and is spread
out from the port to
the nearby hills. The
Catholic neighbourhood of Ano Syros is
nestled to the left of
the hill and the Orthodox neighbourhood
of Vrontado to the
right. The name means
the city of Hermes,
the ancient Greek

god who protected

commerce, travellers
and thieves. Platia
Miaouli, the central
square of Ermoupoli,
is surrounded by shops
and cafs, restored
neoclassical buildings,
trees and flocks of pigeons flying overhead.
At one side stands the
majestic Town Hall,
the work of German
architect Ernst Ziller,
who designed, among
others, the Presidential
Mansion in Athens.
The same building also
houses the small Ar-

chaeological Museum
(separate entrance on
the west side, Tel: +30
22810 88487, open
Tue-Sun 08:30-15:00)
which presents a collection of artefacts excavated in the area of
Halandriani, as well as
Roman and Hellenistic
sculptures and vases.
Walking around town
you will see Apollon Theatre (Vardaki
square), built in 18621864 on designs made
by French architect
Chabeau. At the edge
of Ermoupolis stand

/THE
GREEK
ISLANDS syros
FOR
VISITORS/

the chimneys and

cranes of the towns
old industrial centre
which housed the
old ship yards. Three
of these buildings
form the Industrial
Museum (Tel: +30
22810 81243, 84762)
housing a collection of
20 machines, components and other objects
that testify to the citys
industrial heritage.
Further up the hill
from Ermoupolis is
Vaporia, an affluent
part of the town where
the old mansions of
Greek ship magnates
dominate with their
huge doors and marble
floors.
The prettiest quarter is
Ano Syros which has
a completely different
architecture from
Ermoupoli. Built in the
13th century to protect
112/SYROS

the Venetian population, its houses form

a residential fortress
with the Catholic
Cathedral of Agios
Georgios dominating
the village. The majestic view of the port
from the Cathedral
is worth the huffing
and puffing you will
endure from the countless stairs leading to it.
The village is steeped
in its medieval past,
with narrow alleys
and archways leading
you to small squares,
pretty flowered yards
and meandering alleys
where kids play all
day. The highlights of
the village include the
Monastery of the Capuchins built in 1653
and, further up the
alley, the Monastery of
the Jesuits. Ano Syros
is also the home of

the prominent Greek

musician and rebetiko
composer, Markos
Vamvakaris, who
wrote Frangosyriani.
His museum (Tel: +30
22813 60914, open
daily 11:00-14:00 and
19:00-22:00) showcases pictures and personal objects donated
by his relatives, as well
as original manuscripts
of his songs.
The beaches of Syros
may not be as impressive as in other island,
but they are also less
noisy and are just
as clean. The most
popular are the long
sandy Galissas, the
fishing village of Kini,
busy Agathopes filled
with sun loungers and
thatched umbrellas,
the sheltered bay of
Vari and Azolimnos.
To enjoy more privacy

and reach beaches,

you have to take one
of the boats that leave
daily from Ermoupoli
or rent a car. Armeos
is a nudist beach found
in just a few minutes
walk from Galissas,
while one kilometre
from Agathopes is the
quiet beach of Komito.
On your way to Kini,
you will see a sign
leading you to Lotos
beach, filled with
tamarisks for ample
shade. Other crowdless options include
the mid-sized beaches
of Grammata in the
northwest, Varvarousa
and Aetos. Between
Azolimnos and Vari
are the hidden beaches
of Santorini and
Fabrica. At the southwestern part of the
island, Finikas beach
has a few umbrellas

/THE
GREEK
ISLANDS syros
FOR
VISITORS/

and trees to hide from

the sun, as well as a
cement platform on
one end which serves
as a playing ground
for teenagers. From
Finikas beach you
can also reach the
small, sandy Kokkini
Paralia.
The Italian influences
are evident in the
local gastronomy.
There are plenty of
Italian restaurants
and gelaterias around
the island and some
Italian elements have
been incorporated
in local recipes. For
a complete picture
of Syross culinary
world, try the local
loukoumia (Turkish
delights) and halvadopita (a flat type
of pie with nougat)
found in every bakery
114/SYROS

in town and also the

cheeses San Mihali
and kopanisti.
Nightlife in Syros is
centred on Miaouli
Square and the seafront of Ermoupoli,
but if you want
a quiet night out,
the beautiful Pallas
cinema (Tel: +30
22810 82313) plays
mainstream films
with Greek subtitles
every night.
Getting
there: There are
many direct, daily
ferry services connecting Piraeus and
Lavrio port with
Syros. Check the
Getting to and from
the islands section for
ferry websites.

LiFO
choice

syros

Kouzina
Lilas Guesthouse

01

Kouzina

5 androu street,
ermoupoli, tel: +30
2281 089150

Kouzina knows the

origin of the purest
ingredients and brings
them to your plate as
it co-operates with
local producers and
uses healthy produce
that makes all the
difference in flavour
and nutritional value.
The menu is always
seasonal, so we use
produce that has just
been harvested from
the earth making our
food tasty and clean.
116/SYROS

Filomilas Mezedopolio

We also cook them

properly to maintain
their benefits to our
health. We use organic
virgin olive oil in salads, using organic raw
ingredients is always a
priority.

Lilas
02
Guesthouse
ioannou kosma
& filikis eterias,
ermoupoli, syros,
tel: +30 22810 82738

An old mansion made

of stone, which was
restored in 2003, operates as a guest house
with three rooms and
three suites, which

are equipped with

anything you might
need. The rooms also
have an attic to fit a
third person, while
the suites are 50 sq.
meters. With two
bedrooms for 4-6 people, a coffee maker, a
fridge, a safe, air con
and hair drier. The
colour, the decoration
and the furniture are
aesthetically pleasing.
The location is ideal
as it is situated close
to the port in case you
need to take a trip to
nearby islands. It is
also close to historical

sites, the casino and

nightclubs.
03

Filomilas
Greek Tavern

azolimnou beach,
syros, tel: +30 22810
62088

Two friends from

Cephalonia set up a
mezedopolio in Syros
with a lot of flare.
Every day they cook in
the kitchen traditional
Cycladic dishes with
carefully chosen from
the island ingredients
but also recipes from
the East cooked with
care. Apart from the
regular dishes, there

LiFO
choice

syros

Jar

Greek Coffee Shop

are also specialties of

the day which change
depending on the produce they have picked
up at the market and
the same applies for
desserts. With a glass
or bottle of wine
from their selection of
brands, Greek or foreign music, Filomila is
the summer favourite
of tourists.
04

Jar

16 e. roidis
street, ermoupoli,
tel: +30 22810 79225

Since its creation in

2008, jar spreads its
118/SYROS

he Dream

positive energy &

sweet tales @ Syros
island. Always ready
to delight you with
exquisite, on-the spot
prepared pastries,
savories, beverages
and funky cocktails
for your soul!!

05

Greek Coffee
Shop

miaouli square,
ermoupoli, tel: +30
2281 089248

In a restored neoclassical building at the

center of Ermoupolis,
the Greek Coffee Shop

personifies Greek hospitality with an aura

of ancient Athens, of
Zeus and Hermes.
Those who visit enjoy
all the specialties of
the coffee shop as well
as savoury and sweet
dishes made with local
products which you
can also buy and cook
them yourself using
your own recipes.
06

he Dream

theatrou
square, ermoupoli,
tek: +30 22810 79416

The old Jardino reintroduces itself as a

new caf-resto-bar.
The beautiful yard
coloured in white
and green, invites you
to try the few and
well-made Mediterranean specials, like
moussakas with
Syrian sausage, all
created with local
produce. Different
fish is offered every
day, so ask the waiter
to tell you whats on
offer. For dessert, the
rose-flavoured Turkish delight ice cream is
ideal for your palate
and taste buds.

LiFO
choice

syros

lia bar restaurant

Athymaritis

07

lia bar
restaurant

32 chiou street,
ermoupoli, syros,
tel: +30 2281076301

Situated in one of
the oldest buildings
on the island, in a
quiet neighbourhood,
Elia is unique for
Syros. Apart from
serving breakfast
and coffee from
12.30 onwards, the
traditional meze and
dishes for lunch and
its 30 wine labels or
drinks and cocktails
in the evening, you
may also borrow a
book from its library
and lose yourself in
its pages. It also functions as an art center
120/SYROS

exhibiting photos
and organising live
gigs with underground bands. Extra
tip: During the entire
summer a menu with
great offers will be
available.
08

Athymaritis

2 keas street,
ermoupoli, syros,
tel: +30 22810 82261

Dozens of sweets
wait for you to try
them in one of the
best confectionary
shops on the island
which you will love.
Try the home-made
yogurt with honey
and nuts ice cream
and the meringues
which will delight
your palate.

LiFO
choice

syros

ylo Eyewear

Podilato

09

ylo Eyewear

langada
talanda, ermoupoli,
tel: +30 22810 71253

The waves of the

Mediterranean, the
golden sand, the
beaches and the
feeling left from the
summer breeze are
expressed through
ZYLO eyeglasses,
which are handmade
and made of wood.
With 10 brand names
for mens eyewear
(Serpico, Skate,
Blaze, Mensa, etc)
and 13 for women
(Fly, Sand, Twiggy,
Felis, etc) its certain
youll find what
youre looking for.
Pericles and Eleni
create eyewear that
is inspired from the
122/SYROS

Aegean, putting
emphasis on detail
and a sophisticated
end product.
10

Podilato

1 sperhiou &
milou, ermoupoli
beach, syros, tel:
+30 2810 89399

Come here for good

coffee or come for a
snack while youre
spending the day at
the beach. For drinks
and cocktails, Podilato is your choice
again. The music
played is classic rock,
reggae, new wave,
jazz, funk, ethnic,
etc, while on special
occasions we have
DJ sets. To find all of
the above, come to
Podilato.

124/SIFNOS

photos by spiros staveris

/THE
GREEK
ISLANDS
FOR
VISITORS/

Sifnos
Many people claim that
this is the most beautiful
island in Cyclades. Maybe
they are right!

photos by spiros staveris

If pirates roamed the

Aegean today and had
a treasure map with X
marking the spot, that
X would be Sifnos.
The treasures of Sifnos
are revealed to the
traveller one by one.
Its the quaint village
of Exabelos where
time has stopped, the
fresh seafood in Herronissos, the flat rock
formations from which
you dive in the clear
blue sea in Chrisopigi,
the eclectic stores in
Apollonia. The island
is the birthplace of
Greeces most famous
chef, Nikolaos Tselementes, who authored
the first complete
cookbook on Greek
and French classic
126/SIFNOS

recipes. The cookbook

became a huge success
and was reprinted at
least 15 times. Today,
an overused copy of it
is found in almost every Greek household.
Modern Sifnians have
embraced this heritage
and pay special attention to what is being
served on the table.
Try the island specialty, chickpea soup
or chickpea balls, fried
small shrimp, known
as simiako garidaki,
local cheese like
xinomizithra, capers
and casserole dishes,
the delicious sesame
bars made with local
honey, pies with white
halva, marzipans and
small pastries and you

will see why the island

is loved by gourmet
Greeks and foreigners
alike. Sifnoss success
has been its ability
to develop a healthy
local tourism industry
without altering the
character of the island
and its low-key charm.
So low key, that the
annual summer arrival of a former Greek
prime minister to the
island goes largely unnoticed. Sifnians seem
keen to keep things
running this way, by
focusing on quality
and not quantity.
Entering the rocky
harbour of the island,
the visitor has the first
view of Kamares, the
second busiest village

after the capital and

main town, Apollonia.
The village extends
from one end of the
harbour to the other
with several grocery
stores, bakeries and
tavernas lining its
sea shore. The sandy
beach in the middle of the harbour is
Agia Marina, which
gathers mostly families
and people playing
ferociously with their
wooden beach rackets.
The waters are clean
and shallow, making
them ideal for kids,
while adults can find
respite and a cold fruit
juice on the nearby
caf-restaurant. The
old bakery of Venios
(Kamares, Tel: +30

photos by spiros staveris

/THE
GREEK
ISLANDS sifnos
FOR
VISITORS/

22840 33650) sells the

cheese pies and sweet
cream pies (bougatsa) you will need
to carry with you on
your walks around the
island.
With a path network
of about 200 kilometres, Sifnos is perfect
for hiking. The best
season to hike is spring
and autumn when the
pastures are greener
and wildflowers are
in full bloom, but
even in the summer,
128/SIFNOS

Sifnos inland is still

enchanting. The area
which covers about
20 square kilometres
and stretches from
Profitis Ilias Mountain
- where the namesake
monastery stands all
the way to the western
shores of the island
was integrated into the
European Network
of Natural Protected
Areas Natura 2000.
Walking around the
area, the visitor sees
the dry stone walls

built by islanders to limit ground

erosion and define
property boundaries,
white dovecotes, olive
trees, herb bushes,
wells, monasteries
and churches, birds
and small animals.
The ancient citadel of
Agios Andreas (Tel:
+30 22840 31488,
open daily 08:3015:00, except
Mondays), the most
important archaeological site of Sifnos, was

first discovered at the

end of the 19th century
and proved the area
was inhabited from
Mycenaean times. The
well preserved 10-acre
citadel dominating
the top of the hill
shed light into the life,
activities and beliefs
of the people who
inhabited the area.
Apart from its historic
significance, the area
offers panoramic vistas
of the island and the
villages of Apollonia,
Ano Petali and Artemonas. At the edge of
the citadel stands the
small church of Agios
Andreas. The site is
situated on the way
to Vathi beach and
can be reached by car.
After you pass the 16th
century Monastery of
Firogia, turn right towards the hill of Agios
Andreas.
The most popular
beach is Platis Yalos,
a long populated
stretch of sand where
couples and families
spend their days and
evenings. The village
is fully organised with
cafs, grocery stores,
rooms to let and tourist agencies.
Apart from good
food, Sifnos is also
known for its high
quality of pottery
and there are several
workshops in Vathi,
the village where the
art originates. From
here you may also
buy the clay cooking
pot used throughout
the island to make
the famous revithatha
(chickpea soup). Many
workshops are open
to visitors who are in-

terested in seeing how

humble clay turns into
a beautiful and useful
object. Vathi is also
a popular beach with
quiet waters and small
sail boats anchored
around the cove.
The most impressive
location to swim is
Chrisopigi, named
after the small, whitewashed monastery
standing on the
rocky peninsula. This
peninsula separates
Chrisopigi in two
coves; the one on the
left - as you face the
monastery - forms
a small beach called
Apokofto with plenty
of tamarisks for shade
and two excellent
tavernas waiting for
you at the back. On
the cove on the right is

the very small, pebbled

Saoures, favoured by
those who want more
privacy. This is also
the only known beach
in Sifnos where you
might see nudists. The
third spot for swimming is the flat rocks
on the right side of the
peninsula, where you
will see people diving
off the smooth rocks
into the deep blue sea.
The picture perfect
location of the church
has made it an ideal
wedding location. All
too often swimmers
climbing up the rocks
and entering the yard
of Chrisopigi dazed
by the sun, find themselves next to elegantly
dressed guests who are
waiting for the bride.
To go off the beaten

path, drive 15 kilometres to Herronissos at

the northern part of
the island. Herronissos is a forgotten
fishing village, with a
few houses and some
anchored sailboats
seeking refuge from the
strong northern winds.
The beach is small
with colourful small
fishing boats bobbing
up and down the water
and good fish taverns
where you will lick
your fingers after the
aromatic fish soup
(made similar to bouillabaisse), fresh lobster
and seafood. Just
before you reach Herronissos is Vroulithia,
a beach with large pebbles, clear blue waters
and a few sun loungers
and umbrellas. The

rocks and green waters

of Poulati beach at the
eastern coast make it
ideal for snorkelling.
To reach it, you follow
the signs to Poulati,
then park by the small
church and walk down
the dirt path behind
it. Remember to
bring water and food
because there arent
any stores at the beach.
At the southeastern
part of the island, close
to Chrisopigi, are three
coves forming the area
and village of Faros.
The fishing village has
a small beach with
shallow waters and
sand. Fasolou is the
quiet cove right next
to it with plenty of
tamarisks to lie under.
If you like swimming
in deep waters, head

photos by spiros staveris

to the flat rocks of

Eptamartires found
below Kastro village.
To get there, theres a
paved path from Kastro which leads to the
mysterious church of
Eptamartires and from
there another path on
the left leads to the
diving area.
The picturesque main
town of Apollonia
wakes from its lethargic midday mode after
6pm, when the heat
subsides. The town is
comprised of a small
noisy main square
where buses from
Kamares stop and the
main narrow alley
on the right leading
into the heart of the
village. This alley is
called to steno (the
alley) and quickly fills
up with sun kissed
faces going in and out
of the jewellery shops.
Dont forget to try the
famous Greek-style
donuts called loukoumades with honey
and cinnamon, or
chocolate syrup, which
are served peeping hot
right out of the caul130/SIFNOS

dron. Cafs and restaurants in Apollonia fill

up very quickly so
you need to get there
7pm to find a table.
A few small shops in
the alley sell sarongs
and a canvas backpack
called drouvas, which
is made locally.
Locals call Apollonia
and the almost merged
quarter of Ano Petali,
Stavri (Stavros means
cross) because, when
seen from above, the
white square buildings
form a cross. Apollonia is home to a
Folklore museum, two
pharmacies and a few
banks.
The picturesque village
of Artemonas is a few
minutes walk from
Apollonia and is much
quieter than the main
town. Old mansions
are scattered around
the cobbled alleyways
with colourful blooms
in pottery pots, old
whitewashed churches,
traditional bakeries
and a few tavernas on
the main square. Walk
towards the windmills
at the eastern part of

the village, known

as Bella Vista, for a
spectacular view over
Kastro and the sea.
Every September,
the islands cultural
association organises
a three-day festival of
Cycladic gastronomy
in honour of Nikolaos
Tselementes. Visitors
to Artemonas have
the opportunity to
taste local specialties
and participate in the
celebrations.
The cluster of whitewashed houses and
walls which form the
medieval fortification of Kastro village
in the eastern coast
is all about location.
The sight of village
on the hill-top as you
approach it by car is
like a postcard. The
buildings inside the
settlement form two
circles, with the inner
one made up of the
houses of the rich and
the outer circle from
more simple constructions. Cars are not
allowed in, so you are
able to enjoy a quiet
walk through the arch-

ways and meandering

alleys. The cafs of
Kastro, strategically
located towards the
east, allow for sweeping views of the ocean
and the nearby islands.
To the west of Kastro
village, below the hill,
is the pebbled beach of
Seralia.
When the moon is up,
head back to the steno
(the main alleyway) of
Apollonia for the first
drink of the evening in
one of the many bars
lining the alley.
The riotous panigiria
(festivals held on
saints days) taking
place in Sifnos are for
locals the opportunity
to get together and
celebrate with plenty
of food and wine set
on long tables outside
the churches. During
the summer, theres
one on 20th July at the
Church of Profitis Ilias
(there are two Profitis
Ilias churches; the one
closer to Kamares is
really special) and
on 1st September at
the church of Agios
Simeon. The festival
on 15th August (on
Assumption Day) is
celebrated all around
Greece, but it is
more colourful in the
Cyclades.
Getting
there: There are
many daily ferry and
catamaran services
connecting Piraeus
port with Sifnos.
Check the Getting to
and from the islands
section for ferry
websites.

LiFO
choice

Sifnos

Verina Suites/ Verina Villa/Verina Astra

Argyris

Verina Suites/
Verina Villa/
Verina Astra
01

platis gialos, sifnos,

tel: +30 22840 71525

Verina is located inside an olive tree grove

and the sea is within
walking distance.
Guests have been arriving in Verina for a
few years and the staff
makes sure they have
a pleasant stay. Either
you book one of the
four apartments, the
two suites, or the
seven luxury suites
of Verina Astra, r the
even more luxurious
Verina Villa, you will
find all the amenities
you require and then

Veranda bar

some, like spa, air

con, hamam, safe, TV,
beach towels etc. Each
venue has its own
charm. The suites are
located near the hill of
the castle, where there
is an ancient fortress
in an open, cobblestone area. The view
iis the entire Aegean,
while in the villa you
can relax and exercise
in the pool, or at the
tennis court. The staff
at Verina take care of
everything, like your
excursions to nearby
islands, yoga classes,
or they can organise a specific event
(wedding, christening,
reunion) or a simple

meal among friends.

02

Argyris

agia marina
kamares, sifnos, tel:
+30 22840 32352

Situated right next

to the beach, with a
view over the port of
Kamares, Mr Argyris
satisfies your appetite
with oven-cooked
meals and grilled
meat, island specialties, local ingredients
and a large selection
of seafood and meze.
03

Veranda bar

apollonia,
sifnos, tel: +30 22840
33969

If youre looking for

a place to hang out

while youre on the

island where you
will feel like theyve
known you and youve
known them for
years, Veranda, at the
entrance to Apollonia,
is where you should
head to. The place e
has been a standard
meeting point since
2004. For coffee in
the morning for cold
snacks and waffles
after noon and until
sunset and for imaginative cocktails and
lounge music at night,
Veranda is one of the
most classic Cycladic
bar-restaurants, with a
great view.

/THE

GREEK
ISLANDS
FOR
VISITORS/

Serifos
mazing sandy beaches
will keep you by the sea
all day long,
in this beautifull
small island.

132/SERIFOS

Serifos is a very dry island, even by Cycladic

standards, but beautiful nonetheless. As the
ferry approaches to
the port, you see the
characteristic white,
sugar-lump-like houses
of Hora, the islands
main town, covering the hillside like
spilt milk. According
to the myth, Serifos
was first inhabited
by the Cyclopes, the
mythical one-eyed
monsters who built
and worked the local
iron mines, producing
wealth for the island

and which they later

passed on to humans.
On a more historical
note, archaeological
evidence shows the
island was inhabited
in turn by the Cretans,
Phoenicians and the
Mycenaeans.
Theres a fairly
organised bus service
connecting the port,
Livadi, to Hora, but
the best idea is to rent
a car so that you can
discover the villages
and beaches scattered
around the island.
Right next to Livadi
is the crescent-shaped

Avlomonas beach, one

of the busiest places
to lay your sea-towel.
Livadakia beach is
only a short walk
away from the port
and further south is
the wide, sandy Karavi
beach, preferred by
nudists. North of the
port is Lia beach, the
popular and noisy Psili
Ammos and the sandy,
long Agios Ioannis.
On the southwestern
coast is Megalo Livadi,
a seafront village next
to the abandoned iron
mines. Close to Megalo Livadi is another

secluded cove called

Malliathiko. North
of Megalo Livadi is
the quiet and pebbled
Avessalos beach.
South of Psili Ammos
is Agios Sostis beach
located on one side
of a small rocky peninsula. On the south
coast is the pebbled
and secluded Ganema
beach and right next
to it is the sandy Vaya,
where you have to
bring an umbrella as
there is not one green
leaf in site. On the
southeastern tip of the
coast is Kalo Ambeli,

/THE
GREEK
ISLANDS serifos
FOR
VISITORS/

a small cove formed

by two jutting rock
formations, where you
will probably be alone.
Bring water and food.
Driving to the northeast is the small Kendarhos beach (follow
the path from Kallitsos
village) with its few
tamarisks providing
much-needed shade.
Last but not least,
Sykamia beach on the
northwest is a popular
place dotted with the
colourful umbrellas of
tourists. For those who
seek a little action on
the beach, try Serifos
Scuba Divers (Livadi,
Tel: +30 22810 52005,
www.serifosscubadiv-

ers.gr), who organise

diving trips, walks
into the old mines of
Megalo Livadi and all
water sports, including the newest craze,
Flyboard.
Hora is a beautiful,
quiet village with archetypical Cycladic architecture and friendly
locals. The ruined 15th
century Venetian castle
towering the village
offers a great opportunity for a walk and
panoramic views of
the island and beyond.
Right on the top of the
steep hill is the church
of Agios Constantinos.
Back in the village, the
neoclassical Town Hall

LiFO
choice

01

Albatros Hotel

avlamonas
beach, livadi, serifos,
tel: +30 22810 51148

serifos

Albatros Hotel
134/SERIFOS

and the small Archaeological museum (Tel:

+30 22810 31022)
are worth a visit. A
nearby neoclassical
house houses the Folk
Art Museum (open
from 18:00-21:00),
where local costumes
and tolls are exhibited.
Behind the building
theres an open-air
theatre with 300 seats
which houses the annual music festival.
At the north of Hora is
the deserted settlement
of Pyrgos which comes
to life on the festival
(panigiri) held on Assumption Day (August
15th). In the village of
Megalo Livadi, the old

The hotel is situated

next to Avlamonas
beach at Livadi and
near the port of Serifos. It has 22 pleasant
rooms equipped with
air con, fridge, wifi,
TV etc. Close to the
hotel you will find the
Wildlife Sanctuary, the
Church of Kimiseos,
a mini-market and all

buildings and rails are

a testament to the once
lively community of
the miners who lived
and worked in the
area. You can still visit
the abandoned mines,
which closed in 1963,
and see the old loading
bridge rusting under
the hot sun.
Getting
there: There are
many direct, daily
ferry services connecting Piraeus port with
Serifos. Check the
Getting to and from
the islands section for
ferry websites.

the bars of the island,

where you can have a
drink.
02

Yacht club

livadi, serifos,
tel: +30 2810 51888

A traditional coffee
shop with a view over
the Aegean blue. It
first attracts you with
the smell of coffee mainly Greek - and
then, when you take a
seat, with the delicious
spoon sweets and
biscuits.

Koufonissia

Koufonissia are part

of the Small Cyclades,
a cluster of five small
islands southeast
of Naxos: Iraklia,
Schinousa, Donousa
and Koufonissia. Back
in the 1980s, the only
people who chose to
travel to this part of
the Aegean known as
agoni grammi (ferry
routes with very low
passenger and commercial traffic that
no shipping company
cared to service) were
the odd bearded backpacker and loners. The
trend started to change
in the mid-1990s, when
the appetite for popular
islands was saturated
and a new one emerged
for off-the-beatentrack destinations. The
biggest recipient of the
newly found interest
in remote islands was
Koufonissi, whose
tourist infrastructure
went from having
136/Koufonissia

one camping site, two

tavernas and two cafs
to dozens of rooms,
boutique hotels,
apartments and bars
spread all over the
island. The inhabitants
on all these islands
are mainly fishermen
who supply the local
tavernas with their
daily catch. The islands
are ideal for those who
are interested in resting
and swimming and not
so much in culture, as
there is not much sightseeing to be done.
Iraklia has remained
largely unchanged
and very quiet. The
main village is not particularly scenic but has
retained this old-times
charm. Livadi beach
is where most tourists
stop for a swim but
you can seek out more
lovely beaches if you
walk along the coastline. Shinousa is a prettier island and owes its

beauty to the simplicity

of the landscape and
the tranquil lifestyle. If
youre serious about escaping modernity, this
is the island for you,
as it has no nightlife,
no banks and no fuel
stations. It does have
many beaches with
emerald-green waters
along its coastline. The
biggest of the group
is Donousa, an island
chosen for its golden
beaches, quiet lifestyle
and ample free camping space at Kedros,
Kalotaritisa and Livadi.
Kedros beach the
only beach where nudism and free camping
is officially allowed
- attracts divers and
snorkelers who want
to explore what little is
left of the wreckage of
the Orion, a destroyer
boat which sunk in
WWII. Donousa has
four small villages; the
port - Stavros, the tiny,

almost uninhabited
Messaria, Mersini, with
panoramic views of the
island and Kalotaritisa
at the edge of the
island.
Koufonissia, consist
of three islands; Pano
(=Upper), Kato (=Lower) Koufonissi, and
Keros. Of the three,
only Pano Koufonissi
is inhabited. Koufonissi
was forgotten for years
by Gods and men,
until word-of-mouth
made it as popular as
Mykonos, but without
the variety of its restaurants and nightlife.
Koufonissi, along with
Donousa, are often
described as heaven
on earth, because of
the picture perfect
turquoise waters and
endless sandy beaches.
Tanned Italians with
tribal tattoos constitute
the bulk of tourists
but Greeks are a close
second. Most distances

/THE
GREEK
ISLANDS Koufonissia
FOR
VISITORS/

on the island can be

covered by foot or a
bicycle, but you can
also rent a motorcycle.
A small piece of trivia:
it seems every other
persons surname on
the island is Prasinos
(Green); therefore it is
very likely that a Mr
or Mrs Green will be
your local host, boat
captain, or taverna
owner.
The island is rather
flat and only has one
village, Hora, which is
in essence an extension
of the port. The first
beach to be found on
Koufonissi is the port
itself, Megali Ammos,
a favourite among
families. If you start
walking southwards
(towards your left
when facing the port)
you will soon reach
Harokopou, which
is also popular with
families. Continuing
138/Koufonissia

along the coastline, you

enter the clothes-free
zone on the beaches of
Fanos and its camping
site, busy Italida and
further out the somewhat quieter Pori. Keep
an eye for the small
coves hidden behind
rock formations. They
are usually only big
enough for you and
your significant other
or a party of six at the
most and offer privacy
and the amazing feeling of being the only
human on the planet.
The island is full of
caves and interesting
rock formations which
is why it was named
koufo, a variation of
the word koufio - hollow. A famous formation on the way to Pori
is the eye of the devil
which is essentially a
large, pool-like hole in
the rocks with a beautiful view of the sea. To

the northwest you will

find Parianos, a cove
with a wide sandy
beach well protected
from the wind.
Theres not much
variety in the culinary
world of Koufonissi, but you will find
delicious fresh fish,
lobsters and seafood
delivered daily from
fishermen in local tavernas, as well as goat
and lamb meat from
local herds.
For a change in your
swimming routine,
take the boat to Kato
Koufonissi and choose
between Nero, which

welcomes nudists,
Mastroyiorgis, Pezoulia
Fikio and Theti, four
beaches and coves
blessed with the same
crystal waters as the
Upper island. There
are a few fishing huts
scattered around, the
church of Panagia
and a taverna. There
are also daily services
from Hora to remote
beaches and uninhabited islets. Koufonissi
is crowded during July
and August so your
best chance of making
the most of it is to
arrive either in June or
September.

Getting there: There are many daily

ferry services connecting Piraeus port with Upper Koufonissi and daily services from Piraeus to
Naxos Island. From Naxos, there is a daily ferry
service connecting all the islands of the Small
Cyclades. Check the Getting to and from the
islands section for ferry websites.

LiFOce
i
cho issia
on
f
u
Ko

Sorocos Cocktail Bar

Milos

01

Sorocos
Cocktail Bar

ano koufonissi, tel:

+30 22850 71704

In this bar you will be

sitting right next to
the sea, with a view
of Keros Island. Here
you will have your
beer or a refreshing cocktail after
swimming, while in
the evening you will
return to dance and
enjoy a summer
140/Koufonissia

night that you only

experience in Sorocos.
You will also find an
art exhibition room
where ceramics, as
well as other art
forms, are exhibited.
02

Milos

ano koufinissi,
tel: +30 6978 693413,
22850 74403

A perfect coffee and

cocktail bar situated
right above the port

of the island. There is

nothing old in Mylos
despite the fact that is
housed in an old but
recently refurbished
mill. A magical spot
that offers its visitors
exquisite views to the
Aegean and Keros.
While you are at
Mylos you will have
the opportunity to
enjoy fine coffees in
the morning listening
to some chill out

music. As the night

begins to fall Mylos
changes int its blue
suit. The place comes
alive together with
the rest of the island.
There is a true feel of
what we call island
atmosphere at
Mylos, the ideal spot
for romancing while
you are on holidays
here! Dont forget to
try the cocktails!

LiFOce
i
cho issia
on
f
u
Ko

Gastronaftis

Ateriasti

04

Gastronaftis

ano koufonissi,
tel: +30 22850 71468

Its name signifies

someone who knows
about gastronomy and
travels in the Greek
seas to bring you fresh
fish and seafood daily.
The food is authentic Mediterranean
using good quality
ingredients to create
dishes which meet the
expectations you have
when you choose to
142/Koufonissia

visit the island and

Gastronaftis. The
food satisfies all your
senses, with first and
foremost your vision.
The friendly service
and cosy atmosphere
are some of its advantages.
05

Ateriasti

koufonissia, tel:
+30 22850 71834, 6944
244158

The traditional
kitchen of Mrs Anna
prepares on a daily

basis mezedes and

local specialties full of
fragrant herbs from
the Cycladic country.
Home-made filled
pastry, stuffed wine
leaves with lemon and
egg sauce, lamb with
potatoes in the oven,
sea urchin spaghetti,
mullets, moussakas by
Mrs Pothiti, aubergine
in pastry cooked in a
ceramic pot by Melenia are some of the
dishes you will find.

And if you like these,

you will definitely love
the dusky grouper in
red sauce and the rice
with scampi. Here you
will also taste their
famous rakomelo
or raki drink, along
with other beverages.
The music here is
traditional folk songs
as well as rebetika.
06

Koufohorio

kato koufonissi,
tel: +30 22850 74507

A cosy cafe-bar with

LiFOce
i
cho issia
on
f
u
Ko

Koufonissia Hotel & Resort

Kalamia caf bar

a playful and funny

atmosphere. Iit will
become your hangout
joint during your stay
on the island. Coffee,
homemade deserts
and rakomelo await
you to try them. In the
evenings, the chosen
music is swing, soul
and blues which signal
the beginning of your
night with drinks and
cocktails.
144/Koufonissia

Koufohorio

07

Kalamia caf
bar

ano koufonissi, tel:

+30 22850 74444

Whatever you may

want to eat or drink,
Kalamia is the place.
Do you just want to
have breakfast and
a cup of coffee? You
will come here. Do
you want to have a
dessert, ice cream or
a fruit juice? You will

come here. If you just

want to have a quiet
night out and listen to
some music, you will
again choose Kalamia.

Koufonissia
Hotel &
Resort
08

ano koufinisi, tel:

+30 2285074068

Just 150 meters from

the crystal blue beaches of Ano Koufonissi

is the only 4-star hotel

of the Small Cyclades.
In a 17,000 sqm
venue you will find a
fully refurbished stone
house with a beautiful garden featuring
rare Mediterranean
plants. Here you will
undoubtedly enjoy
one of its 50 rooms
and your dives into
the pool.

Amorgos
If you want to polish
your French or Italian, Amorgos is the
place to do it, because the island is
full of tourists from
these two countries
which proves their
good taste. The easternmost island of
the Cyclades is famous for its beautifully preserved main
village, Hora, and
its celebrated crystal clear waters, immortalised in Luc
Bessons movie The
Big Blue. The island is a quiet place
where you will enjoy
archetypical Cycladic architecture, tra146/AMORGOS

ditional customs and

reasonable prices.
The island has two
ports, Katapola and
Aegiali, and plenty of small settlements inland which
are worth a visit to
observe the lifestyle
of the islanders, especially if you visit at the time of a
panigiri (festivals
held on saints days,
the main one being on August 15th).
Amorgos is dry and
mountainous with
its three highest
peaks reaching between 630-890 metres high. Walking,
diving and climb-

ing are some of the

islanders favourite
pastimes and Amorgos Diving Centre
(Aegiali, Tel: +30
22850 73611, email:
scuba@amorgosdiving.com, www.
amorgos-diving.
com) plans all three.
The small company started with diving trips around
Amorgoss coast
line and soon added hiking and walking tours, all led by
experienced guides.
In recent years, local authorities have
mapped and marked
seven main footpaths which con-

nect the main villages. This initiative has

proved a great success, with groups of
islanders and tourists criss-crossing
hills and valleys all
year round. As you
hike through the arid land, you encounter small white
churches (ksoklisia), cisterns built to
retain much needed rain water and
herds of goats grazing between shrubs.
Between the mountains, the hinterland reveals the valley of Kolofana at
the west, the biggest
on the island and

/THE
GREEK
ISLANDS amorgos
FOR
VISITORS/

the small valley of

Katapola at the centre. Look up and you
see the windmills
standing proudly on
the mountain ridge.
All those adventurous souls out there,
youd be happy to
know that Amorgos has added itself in the geocaching community (an
elaborate treasure
hunt). If your mobile
phone has a GPS, log
in www.geocaching.
com, follow the instructions and youre
good to go. The
website www.amorgos-island-magazine.
148/AMORGOS

com has, among other island information, tips on geocaches stashed around
the island, as well as
a relevant map.
A walk around Hora reveals the slow
paced life of the islanders. People
leave their doors
open, whiffs of oven cooked beef escape from the green
and red shutters
and stray cats roam
around lazily, hoping
to find a little something to eat. Just like
the other Cycladic
villages, this one also was under Vene-

tian rule and has a

castle to prove it. It
was built by Jeremiah Gizis in the 13th
century to defend the
island against invaders who also built
the church of Agios Georgios (Saint
George). The mansion of Gavras houses the Archaeological
Museum (open TueSun 09:00-13:00 and
18:00-20:30) with its
impressive selection
of statues, parts of
columns and utensils
dug out from three
ancient settlements
on the island.
Tholaria is the most
picturesque village
inland from Aegiali and should be visited in the evening for
dinner and a view of
the sunset. Langada village, just before
Tholaria, is just as
charming and worth
a visit. Islanders
gather at the square
of the lower neighbourhood (kato gitonia) to play bocce
with old ladies looking on from their
house entrances.
Perched perilously on a rocky mountainside 300 metres
above sea level, the
Byzantine monastery
of Panagia Hozoviotisa, patron saint
of the island, has a
remarkable collection of rare icons
and manuscripts.
Climbing up the endless stone steps is a
feat in its own mer-

it, but the view from

the small plateau
which marks the entrance to the monastery is well worth
the effort. The monastery was built by
Byzantine Empreror
Alexios Komninos
in 1088. If youre in
Amorgos on November 21st, join locals
at the panigiri organised at the monastery
for a special treat of
free local specialties
and loads of dance.
Another interesting
sight on the island
is the villa of Iannis Xenakis - Greek
composer, theorist
and architect - built
for his daughter and
her husband between
1966 and 1977, close
to Lefkes village,
overlooking the gulf
of Tirokomos. Xenakis, who worked at
Le Corbusiers studios between 1947
and 1959, designed
a typical Cycladic
building with clear
modernist elements,
like the thunderboltlike openings on the
walls. Built between
1966 and 1977, it
consists of four white
separate buildings
forming a curve.
Amorgos has a few
beaches which are
easily accessible, but
for the rest you will
need to do some easy
or more serious hiking. Get a map, a
bottle of water and
walking shoes and
youre ready to go.

/THE
GREEK
ISLANDS amorgos
FOR
VISITORS/
A favoured option
is Agia Anna, whose
crystal clear blue waters featured in "The
Big Blue". If you
continue driving past
Agia Anna you will
find Kambi, a beach
popular with nudists. In southeastern Amorgos, close
to Vroutsi village is
Mouros beach which
can be reached by
car and then you descend a dirt path
for 10 minutes to
reach its rocky shore.
Psili Ammos beach
is a long stretch

of sand with pristine water which

can be reached either by boat, or by a
35-minute walk. After a 20-minute walk
from Ormos, you
will see Levrosos,
the perfect beach for
nudists. At the south,
there is sandy Perivolas, the small cove of
Kato Kambos, Paradisia and Kalotaritisa. From Kalotaritisa you can cross by
boat to the uninhabited island of Gramvousa for a swim.
The quiet beach of
Agios Pavlos is close
to the namesake village. At the tip of
the cove, a 10-metre long stretch of

white sand forms a

natural, picture perfect peninsula. If
the beach is full by
the time you reach it,
walk about 20 minutes south of Agios
Pavlos and you will
find small secluded beaches. From
the side of Katapola,
you will find in turn
the organised Maltezi beach, Agios Panteleimonas, Kato Akrotiri and Finikies.
Amorgian women
are known as excellent embroiders. The
linen and silk white
headscarves embroidered with floral patterns make for a gorgeous neck scarf.
Their level of artist-

ry and detailed work

has earned Amorgian
embroidery a place
in the Metropolitan Museum of Art,
which houses a finely embroidered linen
strip from the 18th
century.
Amorgos is not a
party island, but you
will find a few quiet
bars to sip your beer.
Getting
there: There are
many daily ferry and
catamaran services
connecting Piraeus
and Rafina ports with
Amorgos. For ferry
websites check the
Getting to and from
the islands section.

LiFOce
i
cho os
rg
o
m
a

Aegialis Hotel & Spa

arouso

01

Aegialis Hotel
& Spa

egiali, amorgos, tel:

+30 22850 73393

Staying at Aegialis
Hotel & Spa is something more than a
simple choice. It is
the place where youll
never be bored. It
may be a hotel but it
offers many different
activities. You will
either stay in one of
the six buildings of
Cycladic architecture
and decoration, in a
room or one of the
suites, all of which
are fully equipped. At
Corte Wet Caf you
152/AMORGOS

allisto

will drink your coffee

and have breakfast, at
Ambrosia restaurant
you will have lunch
or dinner, while if you
crave Italian you will
visit the new Nicks
Pizza. In the evening
you may go for a drink
and some dancing at
Fresh Bar. To relax,
all you have to do is
visit the spa or attend
the yoga classes being
offered.
02

arouso

arkesini,
amorgos, tel: +30
22850 72331

Traditional taverna,
one of those you only

find in Greece, with

rebetika music, good
quality alcohol, great
seafood. The house
specialty is the stuffed
calamari.
03

allisto

then eat your dessert:

Filo desserts with
syrup, ice cream, cakes
and tarts that will
make your day.
04

Evdokias Car
& Bike Rental

hora of
amorgos, tel: +30
22850 74094

aegiali village,
tel: +30 22850 73050,
www.askaspension.gr

As you stroll around

the alleyways of Hora,
you will be enticed by
the smells and you will
find yourself in front
of this pastry shopcaf where you will
enjoy a hearty breakfast made from local
produce, drink coffee,
tea or other drinks and

A car hiring company

which can cover all
your needs during
your holidays. The
company has a fleet of
new cars and scooters
(125 cc) available daily
to those who want to
explore the beautiful landscape of the
island. To better serve

Amorgos Diving Centre

Botilia Bar

you, the company

delivers and picks up
the car from any location on the island.
05

Amorgos
Diving Centre

aegiali, amorgos,
tel: +30 22850 73611,
www.amorgosdiving.com

For those of you

who enjoy extreme
sports and water
activities, Amorgos
Diving Centre is
there to teach you
how to explore the
underwater world of
the island. If youve
never tried diving before, the trained and

experienced staff will

show you the basic
principles and secrets
of diving. The Center
also organises group
hiking tours or climbing tours around the
island.
06

Botilia Bar

hora of
amorgos, tel: +30
6936 184321

Everyone comes here

to see the garden, to
try the different and
imaginative cocktails
and to sing/dance at
the mostly foreign
music, from all genres
and all decades.

Tinos

Enchanting yet still

unknown to the majority of tourists, this
Cycladic island mostly
attracts Greek pilgrims
travelling there twice
a year, on March 25
and August 15, to visit
the church of Panagia
Megalochari (the
Blessed Virgin Mary).
From all over the country, people come here
to fulfill their vows and
to seek comfort. Tinos
is the most important
Orthodox centre of
worship in Greece but,
in the same time, an
important Catholic
centre too; this so rare
in Greece mix of religious traditions gives to
the island a particular
character.
But a pilgrimage is
not the only reason
for getting to know
the amazing island of
Tinos, with the beautiful beaches and the 40
traditional villages, or,
154/TINOS

according to the philosopher Kastoriadis,

the hand-made Tinos.This island is the
homeland of renowned
great artists of marble
carving such as Gyzis,
Lytras, Chalepas,
Filippotis and Sochos,
who have been the last
famous names to have
held the baton of the
islands marble-carving
tradition. According to the legend, the
famous sculptor of the
ancient times, Fidias,
had taught the secrets
of his art to the locals.
Their admirable craft
is displayed in chapels,
fountains, arches and
pigeon lofts. In the
village of Pyrgos the
Marble Art Museum is
worth a visit as much
as the Gallery of Tinian
Artists right next to the
church of Virgin Mary.
Tinos is a very interesting place to visit. One
can enjoy its unspoiled

architecture, its
picturesque villages, its
beautiful beaches and
its traditional culture
and way of living that
has been going on
through the years.
The pan-hellenic festivities in honour of Virgin
Mary on August 15 are
accompanied by other
festivals like those in
Tsiknias and Exombourgo and the gastronomic feasts involving
artichoke and raki in
Falatados as well as
the festival of honey in
Kampos. Tinos is the
ideal place for nature
lovers, architecture, art
and tradition, and the
perfect answer to the
relative expectations.

The scenic villages of Tinos

Pyrgos, the village

of the marble artists:
Lying away from the
seashore and where a
Venetian castle used to

stand (the word pyrgos in Greek means

castle) Pyrgos is one
of the largest villages
of the island and, definitely, the centre of the
marble art of Tinos.
The fountain dedicated
to the Greek Revolution of 1821, the
marble work on the
churches, the houses
and the two museums make obvious
that sculpture enjoys
a long tradition in
Pyrgos.Since 1955
the Art School for
Marble Sculpture has
supported this long
tradition.
Agapi: The picturesque
settlement lies in the
shape of an amphitheatre on the edge of
a valley that adjoins
the plain of Komi.
One of Tinos most
abundant brooks winds
its way through the
valley, which is dotted
with well-preserved

/THE
GREEK
ISLANDS TINOS
FOR
VISITORS/

dovecotes. The arcades

and the houses with
the pretty lintels above
their doors and windows play their part
into making Agapi one
of the most traditional
villages of the island.
Arnados: Tinos highest
village is on the south
flank of the Kechrovouni Mountain, close
to the Church museum
where you can see
old icons, books and
other religious items. A
breathtaking panorama
is the backdrop to classical Tinos-style cooking with meat prepared
with locally grown
ingredients. Dont
leave the area before
visiting the monastery
of Kechrovouni (10th
century) a big edifice
looking like a fortified
village. There you
can see the cell of nun
Pelagia, and a museum
156/TINOS

where several remarkable icons from the18th

and 19th centuries, as
well as other important
heirlooms, are kept.
Volax: tiny village,
located in the interior
of the island, almost
hidden in the middle of
rounded, giant granite
blocks, with houses
that are built onto
the rocks. It is one of
the most interesting
villages to explore,
as its architecture is
unique on the island.
Many of its houses are
actually built on top of
the boulders! Although
tiny in size, the village
has two tavernas, a
gift shop, a folklore
museum, a small stone
open-air theater and a
few remaining basket
weavers still making
their sturdy artifacts.
You can also find local
honey, herbs, dried

figs and tomatoes,

capers and wine. Also
interesting to view is
the tiny Catholic village
church next door to
the folklore museum.
It is exactly what you
would expect a village
church to look like! A
footpath winds down
the valley to Agapi
village.
Agios Ioannis Porto,
Agios Sostis, Agios
Romanos, Agios Fokas
and Kionia are just
some of the beautiful
and calm beaches the
coastline of Tinos is
dotted with. Clear-watered and soft-sanded,
these beaches provide
perfect places for relax.
But when visitors have
to choose just one, they
tend to prefer Pachia
Ammos, a wonderful thus very popular
beach in the South.
Kolimbithra is a
natural seawater basin
with two sand-covered
beaches. The smaller
one has deckchairs and
umbrellas, a volleyball
net, freshwater showers
and WCs.
Once used by the
marble exporters, the
harbour of Panormos is
today a popular excursion destination. It is a
picturesque spot with
colorful fishing-boats
and sandy beaches. Out
in the bay, there is an
impressive rock called
the planet.
On the warm, south
side of Tinos, directly
under the spectacular
village of Kardiani
there is an elongated
pebbled stretch of
beach, called Ormos
Yannaki, with sunshades and wonderful

views of the neighbouring island of Syros.

Finally, Ormos
Ysternion is a small
scenic port with adjacent pebble seashore
and fishermens huts
along the waters edge.
A two-minute walk will
bring you to a sandy
beach well protected
from the wind.
Koumelas and Mali
are two beaches in
the North that, apart
from being gorgeous,
they are always wellprotected, even when
the winds are harsh. In
any case, ask the locals
which beach to swim
at should the winds be
strong.
cultural resources:
A walk through the
town of Tinos will give
you the chance to visit
its main sights. Do not
miss:
Panagia Evangelistria
(or Megalochari)
church: It was established in 1823 and built
on the spot where the
icon of Annunciation
had been found after a
vision nun Pelagia had.
It is a majestic building
made of white Tinian
and Parian (=from
Paros) marble. The
exhibition of icons and
heirlooms comprising
of old icons from local
churches and the ambry including works of
gold thread embroidery
and silverware are
worth seeing.
The memorial of Elli,
the Greek battle cruiser
which was torpedoed
by an Italian submarine
outside the port of
Tinos in August 1940.
Next to the Evresis
(=discovery) church

/THE
GREEK
ISLANDS TINOS
FOR
VISITORS/

(dedicated to the finding of the holy icon)

which is located at the
first floor of Evangelistria church, you will
find the memorial to
the soldiers who lost
their lives when Elli
was sunk.
The Art Gallery
exhibiting remarkable
works of Greek and
foreign painters.
The Small Park
where you can observe
the busts of major Tinian artists.
Agios Nikolaos
Katholikon Church.
Koimisis tis Theotokou church.
The fountain dating
back to the reign of
Otto, first King of
Greece (19th century).
The building of the
Foundation of Tinos
Civilization exhibiting
works made by the renowned Greek sculptor
Giannoulis Chalepas.
The location known
as Pallada near the
158/TINOS

port.
The church of the
Holy Cross where you
can see relics of the
harbor breakwaters
(1816).
The ruins of the wall
of the ancient city.
The memorial to the
Fallen (1912) offering
an amazing view of the
port.
The Archaeological
Museum exhibiting
findings from the sanctuaries of Demeter and
Poseidon (7th century)
and Amphitrite (dating
back to the Hellenistic
period).
The Tinian Artists
Museum.

Archaeological
sites on Tinos

Kionia: The sanctuary of Poseidon and

Amphitrite has been
discovered close to the
village of Kionia. It
used to be a Hellenistic
sanctuary of great
religious importance

with a two-faced long

stoa and a small Doric
peristyle temple of the
2nd century BC with
a sanctum altar and a
fountain. Roman baths
and imperial statues
of the period 1st-3rd
centuries AD have also
been found in the same
area.
Agia Thekla: Mycenaean tholos tombs of
the 13th century BC
with lots of pottery and
jewellery items have
been found.
Exombourgo: It
used to be the most
important ancient town
of the island, built in
the 8th century BC.
To remind the glory
days, there are now
remnants in the area,
comprising those of a
temple dedicated to the
goddesses Demeter and
Persephone. Geometric
and archaic vessels
have been found too.
The Peisistratos
Aqueduct: During the

years of the tyranny of

Peisistratos in Athens,
the island acquired an
aqueduct built between
549 and 542 BC. What
is amazing is that Tinos
stopped depending on
that aqueduct for its
water supplies only
in1934!
One can come across
other archaeological
finds in the area of
the villages Gastria,
Vryokastro, and Marla.
Churches and Monasteries on Tinos
Tinos is the island
of Virgin Mary, the
religious island of the
Cyclades par excellence. No wonder over
750 churches lie on its
land, with 220 of them
being Catholic ones.
Apart from the churches of Panagia (=Virgin
Mary) and Evresis, in
the town of Tinos there
are also the churches
of Agios Ioannis, the
Taxiarhes church with
the iconostasis of the

18th century, and the

Catholic churches of
Agios Nikolas and
Agios Antonios.
In Falatado, you can
visit the marble church
of Agios Ioannis and
the largest church on
Tinos, Agia Triada,
built in 1610.
In Steni, dont miss the
church of Agios Antonios, as it is decorated
by a wonderful wood
carved iconostasis of
the 17th century, as
well as by an impressive epitaph and some
old icons.
In Ksinara is situated
the Catholic church of
Panagia of the Rosario,
which happens to be
the seat of the Archbishop of Tinos.
In Kampos, some more
wonderful icons and

a wooden iconostasis
of 1775 await you at
the church of Agia
Aikaterini.
In Ysternia, you will
see the Katapoliani
Holy Convent of 1786,
the church of Agia
Paraskevi with the
fantastic iconostasis,
and one of the oldest
churches on the island,
Agios Athanasios.
On mount Tsiknias,
there is the church of
Faneromeni, providing services for both
the Catholic and the
Orthodox believers.
In the area of Kalloni,
there is the Catholic
church of Panagia
Vryssiotissa, with the
icon of Panagia (Virgin
Mary) that had been
found there in the 17th
century.

LiFO
choice

TINOS

Sivillaki

01

Sivillaki

afentouli & 1
taxiarhon street,
tinos, tel: +30 697
436 5110

A bar where ethnic

music meets jazz,
beautiful cocktails
made with fresh fruits
unite with homemade

syrups and juices. Locals say this is the best

place in town, with
reasonable prices, fair
amounts of alcohol,
impressive cocktails,
groovy, funk, blues,
soul, and ethnic
music and events with
known DJs.

THE
GREEK
ISLANDS
FOR
VISITORS

Useful tips

There are a few things you need to know before you embark
on your dream island holiday.
1. Items that will prove useful on your trip:
Apart from sunblock, sunglasses, walking
shoes and a broad-rimmed sun hat, you
should also bring plenty of mosquito repellents (creams, lotions, etc.), a universal plug
adapter and one or two good reads for the
beach or your longer or shorter boat trips to
and from the islands.
2. Ladies, I know your swimsuits are beautiful, but make sure you are wearing appropriate clothing when visiting a church or monastery. Trousers or skirt to cover your thighs
and a shirt will do the trick. Men should also
wear a T-shirt and long trousers. Excluding
religious sites, you are urged to be sartorially
adventurous.
3. Nudism is not illegal in Greece but there
is a law against breaching public morality.
The law is rather vague but essentially means
you cannot be naked in public. However, it
is widely tolerated, provided you abide to
the basic rule of choosing a secluded beach
(i.e. with no families around). In a handful of
islands you may find sign posts on the beach,
designating it as nudism-friendly. Generally,
the more isolated the beach, the more likely it
is to be populated by nudists. A good source
of information is the tourists who have been
on the island longer than you.
4. Free camping is forbidden. You are only
allowed to camp in official camping sites
which exist in all the above islands. Having
said this, you could perhaps camp out on a
remote beach, but remember that you run
160/USEFUL TIPS

the risk of being harassed by the police or a

local home/taverna owner. The best bet for
a safe camp is to choose a destination off the
mainstream tourists radar, like Anafi, Ikaria
and the small Cyclades. The unwritten rule
for campers is to leave the site exactly as you
found it or better. Take a last look around
before you leave, making sure you have not
forgotten any garbage, and discard any items
in the appropriate bins.
5. Tourists often look puzzled by signs or
announcements made by boat owners that
a trip to a certain beach is cancelled because
of bad weather, when in fact theres not
a single cloud in the sky and the sunlight
is glaring. Boat owners are referring to the
winds. In most islands during the summer
and especially in Cyclades northern winds
(known as meltemia) can be too strong for
small boats to navigate around rocky peninsulas, especially when theyre packed with
tourists. Boat owners choose to play it safe
so that you dont throw up in their caique.
Choose a beach at a walking distance for
the day and try again tomorrow. To avoid
disappointment, do not leave the best (and
furthest) beach for last. If the sea is calm on
your first day on the island, go to the one
which is only approached by boat. You never
know when the winds will pick up.
Was it helpful? Feel free to send your
feedback, comments, curses and anything
else to the editor: Daphne Papadopoulou at
daphnepa@gmail.com.

your free copy

/GREEK

ISLANDS
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VISITORS

GREEK ISLANDS FOR VISITORS