W

2010 Top Ten

Bread Bakers
in America
presented by

For the first time, Dessert Professional has delved deeply

into the world of artisan bread to name the Top Ten Bread
Bakers in America. This group of distinguished bakers has
mastered the art and technique of creating the perfect loaf
that elusive combination of flavor, texture and appearance.
Though their backgrounds and approaches to baking may
differ, one characteristic was common to all the bakers on our
list: their willingness to share recipes and information and
to teach others about their craft, with the goal of improving
the quality of bread in America. Following is a short profile
of each of our Top Ten Bread Bakers in America, as well as
recipes. We also include a profile of Tom McMahon, our first
honoree for the Bread Bakers Hall of Fame.

37

pastry
Tom Gumpel
Panera Bread
Owner: Publicly held
6710 Clayton Road,
Richmond Heights, MO
845.264.1564
www.panerabread.com

Business profile: Panera Bread is a

bakery caf concept that is deeply rooted
in the passion for great bread.
How it all began: I began baking bread
informally at home at my mothers side
and professionally when I was 17 in a
bakery.

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What are you trying to do differently?

We are committed to staying grounded
in the fundamentals of quality bread
making. In a world where new
technologies and ingredient additives
promises better quality and time-saving
measures, sticking to the fundamentals
is different.

How many types

of bread do you
make? Nearly 40
different varieties,
shapes and sizes.
Favorite type of
bread to make:
Whole grain loaves
with starters and
soakers.
Favorite bread to
eat: The perfect
baguette.

Bread philosophy:
Making bread is
the best medium
for
learning,
not only due to the fermentation and
ingredient complexities, but because
you will always have tomorrow to make
it better.
Signature products: The Asiago Bread
and Bagels are examples of trend setting
and lustful breads. Our French baguette
(when executed well) is awesome!
Best compliment youve ever received
about your bread: An empty bread
basket.
Best part of the bread business: The
most fascinating part of the business
(and often most frustrating), is figuring

out the delicate balance between what

I like in a bread and what the customer
will put their money down for. Those
two entities often conflict.
If you werent making bread, what
would you be doing? Fishing, even if it
didnt pay.
If you had to characterize yourself as
a type of bread, what would you be?
A straight, lean dough with minimal
complexity, properly proofed and well
baked. Because, simplicity in life and
bread yields the best results.
Whats next? Getting a loaf of bread in
every arm.
What direction do you see the bread
baking industry heading? Clearly,
new technologies and high quality are
beginning to connect for many bread
makers. The realities are that we are
a long way off from excellence. With
mounting pressures around labor and
ingredients, more creative solutions will
percolate up. Having great bakers in
leadership positions will ensure a future
for quality breads and baked goods.

Poolish:

.07 oz/1.7 g dry yeast (.1% bp)

4 lb/1.814 kg bread flour (100% bp)
4 lb/1.814 kg water (100% bp)
Combine dry yeast with flour; add
water and mix by hand until well
blended. Allow to ferment 12-16 hours
at 70F. Poolish is ready when it has
domed slightly on top and it just begins
to recede.

Final dough:

8 lb/3.630 kg Poolish (124.8% bp)

8 lb/3.629 kg bread flour (100% bp)
4 lb/1.814 kg water (50% bp)
.9 oz/25.4 g dry yeast (red) (.7% bp)
3.8 oz/108 g salt (2.96% bp)
1. Combine Poolish with remaining
ingredients. Mix at first speed for
6 minutes, then second speed for 2
minutes.
2. Allow to ferment for 25 minutes.
Fold over and allow to ferment for 35
minutes more.
3. Divide dough into 15 oz/425 g pieces.
Gently pre-shape into cylinders. Rest
for 30 minutes.
4. Shape into baguettes with pointed
ends.
5. Preheat oven to 440F. Score three
times, overlapping, down center of
baguette. Pre-steam oven for 10 seconds.
Place baguettes in oven. Use extra
steam, if needed. Vent oven after 15
minutes. Bake for 20-22 minutes in total.

2010 Top Ten Bread Bakers in America

French Baguette
with Poolish

39

pastry

Bread philosophy: Bread creates a

space for sharing, and although it no
longer contributes the same caloric and
nutritive value that it formerly did (since
people eat less bread now than in years
past), bread remains an immensely
important part of our collective diet. I
believe that bread bakers are true public
servants, and as such are important
members of their community and of
society as a whole.
Signature products: Nougat Montlimar
and Panforte, made with honey from my
honeybees, have been well-received at
holiday times for many years.
Best compliment you ever got about
your bread: Years ago when I owned
a bakery in Brattleboro, Vermont, a
woman left me a crumpled note that said
Mr. Hamelman, your bread has saved
my life. Thank you. It was anonymous
and I never knew who wrote it.

Jeffrey Hamelman
The King Arthur Flour Bakery
Owners: The employees of the
King Arthur Flour Company
135 US Route 5 South, Norwich,
Vermont 05055
802-526-1870
www.kingarthurflour.com

Business profile: We are a big little

bakery, with eight full time bakers, one
part-time baker, and one extern, and we
make a full array of breads and pastries
from scratch. About two-thirds of our
production sells at the King Arthur retail
store, and the rest goes to our wholesale
customers. We have intentionally kept
our wholesale deliveries very local for
environmental reasons, and we are
fortunate that we can generate one-third
of our gross sales with a 12 mile daily
delivery route.
When did you first start making bread?
My first baking job began at 6 AM
Wednesday morning, September 1, 1976.

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What are you trying to do differently?

Im still trying each day to perfect the
products and techniques that were
developed hundreds of years ago by our
baking forbearers.

How many types of bread do you

make? Over the course of the week, we
make about 24 different kinds of breads,
some each day, and others once or twice
each week. We are certified organic,
and about one-third of our breads are
organic.
Favorite type of bread to make: I
enjoy the individual characteristics of
different breads, and the fact that each
has subtle needs that differentiate it
from other breads. I dont really have
one favorite type of bread that I make.
I dont believe I will ever tire of the
wonderful act of making bread.
Favorite bread to eat: I enjoy breads
made with 100% rye flour, 100% white
flour, and most everything in between.
My favorite breads to eat are those that
are made with skill and care.

Best part of the bread business:

Providing nourishment and pleasure to
people of all ages.
If you werent making bread, what
would you be doing? I am a baker. Its
what I am. When the shoe fits, the foot
is forgotten.
If you had to characterize yourself as
a type of bread, what would you be? I
was invited to a Halloween party once,
where you had to dress up as your
ultimate fantasy. I came dressed as a loaf
of rye bread!
Whats next? Id like to develop a
program that enables young bakers
to work at different bakeries in North
America and overseas, so that our
collective baking expertise increases.
What direction do you see the bread
baking industry heading? Todays
baking world is filled with many positive
signs. There are so many more competent
bakers now than there were when I
began. Bakers tend to be very open and
generous with their knowledge, and
this is helping the overall evolution of
our trade. And initiatives to bake with
locally-grown grains are becoming a
national phenomenon, which is quite a
significant and positive change.

Make the soaker by pouring the water over the old bread and
flax seeds. Cover the soaker with plastic to prevent evaporation.

Dough Yield: 20.161 kg

Final dough:

Sourdough:

8.8 lb/4 kg whole rye flour (100% bp)

7.3 lb/3.320 kg water (83% bp)
14.1 oz/400 g culture (10% bp)
Approximately 16 hours before the mix, disperse the sourdough
culture into the water, add the rye flour and mix till smooth.
Cover with plastic and leave at room temperature to ripen.

Soaker:

2.2 lb/1 kg flax seed (100% bp)

28.2 oz/800 g old bread (79.8% bp)*
6.6 lb/3 kg water (300% bp)
*Note: Any hearty whole grain loaf can be used.

13.2 lb/6 kg Sir Galahad flour

3.76 lb/1.71 kg water
7 oz/200 g salt
4.6 oz/130 g yeast
16.1 lb/7.32 kg sourdough
10.56 lb/4.8 kg soaker
1. Mix the final dough by adding all the ingredients to the mixer
(first remove a portion of the rye to perpetuate the culture).
If using a spiral mixer, mix on first speed for 3 minutes to
incorporate ingredients. Check the hydration and correct as
necessary: the dough should have a moderate looseness. Mix
on second speed for about 4 minutes. Gluten development
will be moderate. Desired dough temperature: 76-78F. Bulk
fermentation: 1 hour.
2. Divide and shape round or oval loaves of desired weight.
Final proof: 50-60 minutes. Bake in a steamed oven at 450F for
about 36-40 minutes (for a .68 kg loaf).

2010 Top Ten Bread Bakers in America

Flax Seed Rye

41

pastry

Business profile: Breadhitz strives

to inform and educate both amateur
and professional artisan bread bakers
through our instructional DVDs, books,
workshops, and consulting.
How it all began: My first memories of
bread baking are from grade school. Our
class grew a small plot of wheat which
was then harvested and brought to a
local miller to have it ground into flour.
From that flour we made our own loaves
of bread and I suppose that moment
marked the start of my bread education.
However, it was many years later
that I began baking in a professional
setting during my apprenticeship in
Switzerland in 1991.
What are you trying to do differently?
I am constantly concerned that my
bread looks as good as it tastes, so I like
to experiment with decorative shaping
and other bread techniques that can set
my loaves apart.

Ciril Hitz

Breadhitz
Owner: Ciril Hitz
www.breadhitz.com

How many types of bread do you

make? Since my work does not revolve
around a production schedule, I am free
to bake a wide range of artisan breads
and breakfast pastries, from whole
grain breads to sourdoughs to laminated
products and everything in between.
Too many to count!
Favorite type of bread to make: It might
not actually be my favorite to make, but
the bread which I respect the most and
keeps me humble is the classic French
baguette. It takes a lot of experience and
skill for a baker to combine the simplest
of ingredients and turn them into
perfectly shaped baguettes that are full
of flavor. In my opinion, its the ultimate
test of a baker a test that I am constantly
taking as I strive for the perfect bake.
Favorite bread to eat: That depends
on my mood and the time of day. I like
to eat baguette with some good cheese,
European butter, and a glass of red
wine. I like to eat most any type of rye
bread, either with cured meats or butter
and raspberry jam (childhood calling
again). For breakfast, I like to enjoy a
true morning classic: a bagel with cream
cheese (and lox!).
Bread philosophy: To sum it up into
one phrase: nothing beats long, slow
fermentation.
Signature products: I suppose most
people would say that my decorative

42

bread work initially helped me to gain

recognition in the field and industry.
Along the way I have become very
comfortable with the artisan side of
baking and I truly enjoy the challenge of
working with long and slow fermented
doughs. In a perfect bread, I try to marry
beauty with taste.
Best compliment youve ever received
about your bread: While its nice to
hear that people love a bread you make,
I think the ultimate compliment as an
educator is when a former student
comes to me with stories about how
well their bread is received by their own
customers. Of course it always feels
good when your own family loves your
bread!
Best part of the bread business: The
bread business has been around for
thousands of years, so job security might
be one of them. All kidding aside, I think
that bakers are generally a very relaxed
and generous group of people who
enjoy their craft and like to share their
knowledge. I learn so much from my
fellow bakers and I am lucky to have so
many great colleagues.
If you werent making bread, what
would you be doing? I think I would
either be a pastry chef or a ceramic artist.
If you had to characterize yourself as
a type of bread, what would you be?
I make a multi-grain rustic loaf with
hazelnuts (I call it Totally Toasted
Hazelnut Bread). I think that would be
me: a little nutty with a twist of Swiss
flavor.
Whats next? I might write another
book in the future (to follow up the first
two). My wife and I are also hoping to
set up a small classroom on our farm
to teach baking workshops. Other than
that, I like the fact that life has a way of
keeping things fresh. I cant wait to see
whats around the bend!
What direction do you see the bread
baking industry heading? Good bread
in America is here to stay. Every quality
artisan bakery not only serves as an
ambassador of good bread, but also fills
an educational role, too. People are
learning more about the qualities of
good bread and as this trend continues
(which I believe it will), the need for
skilled artisan bakers will grow.

Final weight: 15 lb, 6.9 oz/7 kg

2.64 kg/5 lb, 13.1oz bread flour (90.1% bp)
10.4 oz/295 g medium rye or whole rye flour (.9% bp)
4 lb, 13.6 oz/2.2-2.4 kg water (96F) (74.9% bp)
2.3 oz/66 g salt (2.2% bp)
.14 oz/4 g SAF yeast (13% bp)
3 lb, 11 oz/1.675 kg white starter 60% (57% bp)
1.4 oz/40 g fresh chopped rosemary (optional) (1.3% bp)
1. Mix all of the above ingredients on first speed for 4 minutes.
2. Mix on second speed for 1 minute.
3. Bulk ferment for 45 minutes, then give one stretch and fold.
4. Bulk ferment for an additional 45 minutes.
5. Divide into 500 g increments and work like a baguette as a
pre-shape. Let rest for 20-30 minutes.
6. Rework into very long baguette and roll into opposite
directions creating an S and place on a couche that has
been floured.
7. Proof for 60 to 75 minutes.
8. Bake at 480 F for 30-35 minutes.
9. Open the door with 5 minutes to go to build a crust.

2010 Top Ten Bread Bakers in America

Country Sour

43

pastry

Jim Lahey

Sullivan Street Bakery

Owner: Jim Lahey
533 W 47th St
New York, NY 10036
212-265-5580
www.sullivanstreetbakery.com

Business profile: Trying to give meaning to bread.

How it all began: When I was 16 I made bagels and
fried cannoli shells in Long Island.
What are you trying to do differently? Show how
bread is important by distinguishing ourselves
through carefully executed culinary activity.
Favorite type of bread to make: Hands down, the
Bianca or anything naturally leavened.
Bread philosophy: Less is best.
Signature products: Pizza Bianca or filone, for
sure, or almost anything that looks almost burnt.
Best compliment youve ever received about
your bread: Ive received so many that theyve
blended into some meaningless blob of goodness.
Best part of the bread business: Making it all
work.
If you werent making bread, what would you be
doing? Playing with my kids.
If you had to characterize yourself as a type of
bread, what would you be? A really burnt filone.
Rough and crusty on the outside and moist and
chewy on the inside. But, somehow, when you
chew me up it all makes sense malty, bitter, moist,
chewy, warm, pleasant, flaky, crunchy as well as
satisfying and nourishing.
Whats next? A new book on baking.

44

What direction do you see the bread baking

industry heading? Its still rather industrial, I
suppose. I think that artisan bread as a concept or
selling point is bland and useless and ultimately
defeatist if the bread that one makes sucks, and the
vast majority does. Id like to see micro-bakeries
succeed, where industry falls short; quality.

Yield: One 10-inch round loaf; 1 pounds

Equipment: A 4 to 5 quart heavy pot
10.6 oz/300 g bread flour
3.5 oz/100 g whole wheat flour
1 tsp/8 g table salt
tsp/2 g instant or other active yeast
10.6 oz/300 g cool water (55-65F)
Wheat bran, cornmeal or flour for dusting
1. In a medium bowl, stir together the flours, salt, and yeast. Add
the water and using a wooden spoon or your hand, mix until
you have a wet, sticky dough, about 30 seconds. Cover the bowl
and let sit at room temperature until the surface is dotted with
bubbles and the dough is more than doubled in size, 12 to 18
hours.
2. When the first rise is complete, generously dust a work
surface with flour. Use a bowl scraper or rubber spatula to
scrape the dough out of the bowl in one piece. Using lightly

floured hands or a bowl scrapper or spatula, lift the edges of

the dough in towards the center. Nudge and tuck in the edges
of the dough to make it round.
3. Place a tea towel on your work surface and generously dust
it with wheat bran, cornmeal, or flour. Gently place the dough
on the towel, seam side down. If the dough is tacky, dust the
top lightly with wheat bran, cornmeal, or flour. Fold the ends
of the tea towel loosely over the dough to cover it and place it
in a warm, draft-free spot to rise for 1 to 2 hours. The dough is
ready when it is almost doubled. If you gently poke it with your
finger, it should hold the impression. If it springs back, let it rise
for another 15 minutes.
4. Half an hour before the end of the second rise, preheat the
oven to 475 degrees F, with a rack positioned in the lower third,
and place a covered 4 to 5 quart heavy pot in the center of
the rack.
5. Using pot holders, carefully remove the preheated pot from
the oven and uncover it. Unfold the tea towel and quickly but
gently invert the dough into the pot, seam side up. (Use cautionthe pot will be very hot.) Cover the pot and bake for 30 minutes.
Remove the lid and continue baking until the bread is a deep
chestnut color but not burnt, 15 to 30 minutes more. Use a
heatproof spatula or pot holders to carefully lift the bread out
of the pot and place it on a rack to cool thoroughly.

2010 Top Ten Bread Bakers in America

Pane Integrale:
Whole Wheat Bread

45

pastry

Daniel Leader
Bread Alone Bakery
Owners: Daniel Leader and
Sharon Burns-Leader
3962 Route 28, Boiceville,
NY 12412
845-657-3328
www.breadalone.com

Business profile: Bread Alone is a dynamic and interesting

business where our primary goal is baking organic whole grain
breads that are shipped to hundreds of people and places in the
New York Metropolitan area. But, Bread Alone is also a diverse
business; in addition to our hearth-baked breads, we also make
cookies and cakes using locally grown fruits as well as flaky
croissants and rich chocolate tortes that we serve in our cafes,
located in Woodstock, Rhinebeck and at the main bakery in
Boiceville. We are also a central figure in the many farmers
markets that we attend in the Hudson Valley and New York
City area, and over the past several years, we have published
three baking books; Bread Alone, Local Breads, Panini Express
and the upcoming Simply Breads.
How it all began: In college, I was devoted to the Tassahara
Bread Book and I wowed my friends with fresh, hot bread that
was probably overbaked and underproofed, but made with the
passion of youth and thus what may have been an ordinary loaf
was elevated to the makings of a counter cultural movement
towards all things natural.
What are you trying to do differently? After so many years
of baking, I have found that it is very important to keep things
fresh! That is not a silly bakers joke, I really have found that
I need to remember every day to approach the dough, the
production, the staff and the caf with a new eye and not get
caught up in old, bad habits. I am constantly looking out for a
more efficient way of doing each task and for baked items that
I didnt think to include in the long line of breads that we bake.
How many types of bread do you make? We are currently
baking 23 different types.
Favorite type of bread to make: I continue to be intrigued
by levain. The whole wheat sourdough seems to maintain
its woodsy seduction throughout the entire baking process,
leaving a loaf of bread that is impossibly light and moist.
Sometimes, as I walk around the back of the bakery, I can just
get a whiff of the levain coming out of the oven and it remains
distinct among all the familiar smells. It never fails to bring a
smile.

46

Favorite bread to eat: Same. Oh, Ive had my dalliances with

the baguette, its crisp crust and holey interior being amongst
the superior experiences of the world. But when it comes down
to it, and I get home from a long day of baking, or traveling, Im
always happy to cut a slice of levain, spread some grainy mustard
and a sharp piece of New York cheddar on it and sit by the
garden enjoying life!

Bread philosophy: Bread should be enjoyed. For a while we

used the tagline Break Bread Make Peace, and people really
liked the message. It really speaks to the reason that I began
baking and why I continue to enjoy what I do. Everyone can
relate to bread and nearly everyone who comes to my shop
has a story to tell about why they like a particular loaf or how
this loaf is the same as or different from the loaf that their
German/Polish/Jewish/Irish/French/Italian or South African
mother/grandmother used to make! I listen with interest and
amusement and wonder to myself how many variations of this
have I heard? How many variations are there? Its endless and
always fascinating.
Signature products: Our French Sourdough (levain) and our
Whole Wheat Sourdough (miche).
Best compliment youve ever received about your bread: By
far the most wonderful compliment is also one of the saddest,
This is better than my grandmothers, or My grandmother
would have loved this bread.
Best part of the bread business: After a long trip away, pulling
up to the bakery, opening the car door and being able to smell
the bread baking. Like all thing familiar, you stop noticing the
smell when you are around it day after day.
Whats next? I am focusing ever increasingly on the quality of
each loaf. In a busy artisan bakery it is easy to let your attention
to each loaf slip a little bit each day. I am always on the lookout
for ways to help my staff stay attentive to the details.
What direction do you see the bread baking industry
heading? Perhaps there will be growth both in the industrial
baking industry with some of the new technology that I see
at the international baking shows and yet also I believe there
will be growth in the owner-operated artisan bakeries. Buying
local has become more than a buzz word, it has become an
important decision making tool for many communities. We
are servicing many public schools in our area and that was
something unheard of only a few years ago. But the parents
have pressured their school boards to attend to the cafeteria
menu and so the kitchen managers have created bid-lists
that make it possible for an artisan bakery to compete with
institutional bakeries whose items are shipped interstate and
frozen.

Apple cider levain (mix 8-12 hours before final dough):

3.56 oz/101 g organic bread flour
3.2 oz/91 g water
1.48 oz/42 g apple cider
.7 oz/20 g liquid levain (52%)
Combine all ingredients and mix on low speed until smooth
dough forms. Place the dough in a clean 1-quart container and
cover it. Let the apple cider levain stand to ferment at room
temperature for 8 to 12 hours. It may have already risen and
begun to deflate and it will be riddled with air pockets.

Cutting mixed grain loaves.

Final dough:

17.6 oz/500 g organic bread flour

6.6 oz/188 g water
6.6 oz/188 g apple cider
8.9 oz/254 g Apple Cider Levain (from
above)
.45 oz/13 g sea salt
1.9 oz/55 g cranberries

reaching the masking-tape mark, 2 to 3 hours. It will feel firm

but springy and less sticky.
5. Heavily dust a banneton or a colander lined with kitchen
towel with flour. Turn the dough onto a lightly floured
countertop. Flour your hands and shape it into a round by
tucking the edges of the dough underneath the bulk, as if you
are making a bed, to shape a rough round. Place your hands on
either side of the round and move them in tight circles as you
pull the dough toward you. If the dough sticks to the counter,
lightly dust the counter with flour again. These simultaneous
movements will pull any rough bits under the ball and create
a taut skin around it. Dont worry about making it perfectly
round, but be sure to pinch the bottom edges to seal. Place the
round, pinched side up, in the banneton or colander, dust it
with flour and cover loosely with plastic
wrap.
6. Let the dough stand at room
temperature until it is pillowy and has
doubled in size, 2-3 hours. When you
press your fingertip into the dough, the
indentations will spring back slowly.
7. About 1 hour before baking, place a
baking stone on the middle rack of the
oven and a cast-iron skillet on the lower
rack. Preheat the oven to 470F.
8. Line a bakers peel or rimless baking
sheet with parchment paper. Uncover
the loaf and tip it out onto the peel or
sheet, guiding it with one hand for a soft
landing. With a single-edged razor blade
or serrated knife, make 4 straight slashes
about 1 inch from the edge to form a
square-shaped frame. Do not connect
the score marks or the crust will rupture
where they intersect.
9. Slide the loaf onto a baking stone. Place
cup of ice cubes in the skillet to produce
steam. Bake until the crust is walnut brown, 40 50 minutes.
A large loaf like this needs to be fully baked, especially if you

1. Mix together the flour, water and cider

and until a smooth dough forms. Allow to
sit 20 minutes (autolyse).
2. Add Apple Cider Levain and salt. Mix
on low 2 minutes to incorporate levain.
Increase the speed to medium and knead
for 7 to 8 minutes, until the dough is smooth
and very elastic. Add the cranberries and
blend until fully incorporated.
3. Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled,
clear 2-quart container with a lid. With
masking tape, mark the container at the
level the dough will reach when it has
Levain loaves with ovens being fired.
doubled in volume. Cover and leave it to
rise at room temperature (70 75F) for 1
hour. It will inflate only slightly.
want a good crust, so dont hesitate to add an extra few minutes
4. Scrape the dough out onto a lightly floured counter. With of baking time if necessary.
floured hands, lift the top edge of the dough and fold it so that 10. Slide the peel or the rimless baking sheet under the
it lands in the center of the mass. Lift the bottom edge and fold parchment paper to remove the loaf from the oven slide the
it so that it meets the top. In one fluid motion, slide both hands loaf, still on the parchment, onto a wire rack. Cool the loaf
underneath the dough, turn it over so the fold is underneath, completely, about 2 hours, before slicing. To serve, halve the
and slip it back into the container. Cover the dough and let loaf, then cut slices from each half. Store it cut side down on a
it rise until it expands into a dome twice its original size, plate or cutting board.

2010 Top Ten Bread Bakers in America

Apple Cider Bread

47

pastry

Busniess profile: Uptown Bakers is a wholesale bakery

specialized in the production of artisan breads and traditional
breakfast pastries delivering products to the Mid-Atlantic
region. Red Brick Consulting is a consulting company that helps
bakeries of any size around the world in all aspects of baking.
Red Brick Consulting also assists baking schools worldwide in
teaching artisan bread baking knowledge to students.
When did you first start making bread? I started baking
bread 25 years ago in France. I apprenticed in the Southwest
of France (Toulouse area), then went to work for Club Med in
several hotels around the world. After a few years, I went back
to France to get a Master Bakers degree at the Institut National
de la Boulangerie Ptisserie. I then came to the U.S. and worked
successively for Bay State Milling Company, the National
Baking Center, the San Francisco Baking Institute and Uptown
Bakers.
What are you trying to do differently? Set up processes that
respect the integrity of the dough and that can be applied to
large production without penalizing the final product. This
involves ingredients and equipment selection, but also the
training of the bakers.
How many types of bread do you make? Currently we are
mixing about 30 different types of daily. Each dough is then
used to produce different products of different shapes and
weights.
Favorite type of bread to make: Baguette, because it is the
most simple, traditional, but yet the most challenging bread to
make. Everything must be right, from the type of flour, to the
mixing and fermentation of the dough, the shaping, and finally
the baking.
Favorite bread to eat: Baguette and ciabatta, because their
subtle and complex flavor can accommodate and be combined
with any type of food.
Bread philosophy: Keep it simple and genuine. Respect the
quality of the product.
Signature products: Miches. It is baked with respect to the
tradition, using a combination of flours and several preferments.
Best compliment youve ever received about your bread: It is
like it used to be in the good old days.
Best part of the bread business: Working with so very little
and such simple ingredients and creating such a complex final
product in conditions that can change daily.
If you werent making bread, what would you be doing?
Probably traveling and discovering new cultures and their
culinary traditions.
If you had to characterize yourself as a type of bread, what
would you be? Probably a baguette, very simple, authentic and
that can go along with a lot of things.
What direction do you see the bread baking industry heading?
Going back to more traditional breads, but also getting more
and more into the technicality of the nutritional functions of
bread.

48

Whats next? To keep on enjoying baking, teaching and

consulting around the world.

Didier Rosada
Uptown Bakers/Red Brick
Consulting
Owners: Mike Mc Cloud
and Didier Rosada
5335 Kilmer Place,
Hyattsville, MD, 20781
301-864-1500
www.uptownbakers.com

Note: percentage following amount is the bakers percentage.

Yield: 65 baguettes
Sponge:

6.366 lb/2.888 kg bread flour (80%)

25.46 oz/722 g fine whole wheat (20%)
4.2 lb/1.906 kg water (66%)
.1 oz/3 g salt (.1%)
.1 oz/3 g dry instant yeast (.1%)
Total = 6 kg (166.2%)
Mix until all the ingredients are combined. Do not overmix.
Allow to ferment 10 to 12 hours at room temperature (70-75F).

Dough:

20.94 lb/9.5 kg bread flour (95%)

17.6 oz/500 g fine whole wheat (5%)

15.432 lb/7 kg water (70%)
9.5 oz/270 g salt (2.7%)
.88 oz/25 g dry instant yeast (.3%)
17.6 oz/500 g toasted wheat germ (5%)
1.76 oz/50 g malt (.05%)
13.2 lb/6 kg sponge (60%)
Total = 23.845 kg (238.45%)
1. Using spiral mixer, mix ingredients for 5 minutes to mediumsoft consitency. For second mixing, mix to improved mix.
Ferment for 2 hours (73F).
2. Divide into 350 g portions. Roll portions into rectangles and
let rest for 30 minutes.
3. Shape each portion into baguette and let proof for 1 hour
seam-up on a flour-dusted linen.
4. Score baguettes with criss-cross. Bake with steam at 460F
for 22 minutes.

2010 Top Ten Bread Bakers in America

Baguette with Wheat Germ

49

pastry

Amy Scherber

Amys Bread
Owner: Amy Scherber
75 Ninth Avenue, New York, NY 10011
(and multiple locations)
212-977-2670
www.amysbread.com
Busniess profile: Amys Bread is a neighborhood bakery in the
middle of a big city. Although our staff and production have
grown, we still feel like a small, local gathering place. You can
come in and enjoy great bread, delicious morning pastries,
sandwiches, cakes and other sweets, but were still a bread
bakery at heart.
How it all began: I made my first loaf when I was 13, but didnt
bake a substantial amount of bread until 1989 when I started to
study bread baking.
What are you trying to do differently? I am really focused on
making sure we have a great workplace for our employees. We
take good care of our staff, and at last count, 24 our bakers have
stayed for between 9 and 18 years! These long-term bakers help
supervise the daily production and ensure that the quality of
the bread is the best it can be every day. They take great pride
in their work and (mostly) enjoy working behind the large glass
windows in Chelsea Market where everyone can watch us
making our products. The glass storefront keeps us on our toes!
How many types of bread do you make? We mix 25 different
kinds of dough each day, and each one is made into 2-5 different
products, so our selection is vast!
Favorite type of bread to make: I usually like to make wet,
sticky dough like Rustic Italian because it looks like it will
never come together, and then, voila! It finally takes shape and
becomes gorgeous, holey bread.
Favorite bread to eat: I love grainy breads. My current
favorite (this changes regularly) is my new Peasant Wheat with
Toasted Seeds Roll, a mild whole wheat bread with pumpkin,
sunflower, flax and sesame seeds inside, and a toasty coating of
the same seeds and a bit of sea salt on the outside. Its crunchy,
chewy, nutty, toasty, and delicious.
Bread philosophy: From simple to complex, good bread starts
with well chosen flour, a perfectly fermented starter, plenty
of water, and the right balance of salt and other ingredients.
Given ample floor time at a moderate temperature, the bread
dough develops the complex aromas and flavors ready to be
released from this fermenting mixture. An intuitive baker and
a good oven are the other ingredients that make good bread.

50

Signature products: The bread we are best known for is

Semolina with Golden Raisins and Fennel. Our Black Olive
Twists and Chocolate Sourdough Twists are also very unique
and have many fans.

Best compliment youve ever received about your bread:

French people telling me that my bread is better than their
favorite bread in France. (French tourists flock to my bakery
because we are raved about in their guide books!)
Best part of the bread business: Bread bakers are interesting
characters. They are hard working, a bit crazy, and usually
quite willing to share ideas and secrets with their colleagues
and competitors. I really love the camaraderie among bakers
and their openness with each other. Its a very unique business
that allows this kind of connection and admiration among
people that compete with each other in the industry.
If you werent making bread, what would you be doing?
Lately I have had a chance to do some gardening and have
really enjoyed it, so I think I would be a vegetable and flower
gardener if I werent baking. Gardening reminds me of bread
baking: Its hard work, it takes lots of endurance to get all the
work done, you need to work with your hands and stand on
your feet for long periods of time, there is a lot of heavy lifting,
its hot work on a summer day (like standing in front of the
bread oven), and the end result is very gratifying.
If you had to characterize yourself as a type of bread, what
would you be? I would be a Whole Wheat Walnut loaf. I am
glossy deep brown (thats the dark hair), crunchy (thats the
protective exterior that helps me run a bakery), grainy and
healthy (interested in healthful eating), slightly sweet (from a
dab of honey) and a little nutty.
Whats next? We need more space. So I guess that means
growing into a bigger bakery one of these days! Where and
when is still to be seen.
What direction do you see the bread baking industry
heading? These are some trends that I have seen recently:
People still love bread, but they also love sugar. Bakeries today
must provide customers with more than bread. If they have
retail stores, they are expected to offer sweets, sandwiches,
beveragesa full range of products besides bread. As much
as people talk about whole grain breads, white breads like the
baguette still outsell all others by a large margin. We get lots of
requests for breads for special diets like gluten free, wheat free,
etc. Restaurants have cut back on their bread baskets or have
stopped offering bread in the more casual concepts. Bread is
here to stay, but expect to see fewer or simpler bread baskets
in restaurants, and bakeries with 5 or 6 kinds of bread to offer,
and a huge case full of sweets to keep their customers happy!

Made with Biga Starter

Makes three 1-pound

round loaves
Equipment: baking stone and wooden
peel, one 17 x 12-inch sheet pan
This lovely golden bread is both sweet
and savory. Apricots sweeten the loaves
and chopped fresh sage adds an earthy,
grassy flavor. It is similar to our Semolina
with Golden Raisins and Fennel in
shape, color, and texture. We form and
cut the bread into a sunflowera special
shape we make for all the holidays. It
also makes a unique gift because it looks
so pretty. We like to serve this Semolina
with Apricots and Sage with fish or
poultry, and weve even diced it to add
to Thanksgiving turkey stuffing. With
its crunchy cornmeal crust and dense,
almost cakelike interior, this bread is
sure to please.
8 oz/227 g dried apricots, diced
2 oz/57 g very warm water (105 to 115F)
1 tsp active dry yeast
12.5 oz/355 g cool water (75F)
10 oz/284 g Biga (see below)
18.35 oz/520 g patent durum flour
6 oz/170 g medium yellow cornmeal
.56 oz/16 g kosher salt
.25 oz/7g fresh sage leaves, chopped
Extra cornmeal, for sprinkling
1. Place the apricots in a large measuring
cup, and add warm water to come just
below the top of the fruit. Set aside to
soak.
2. Combine the very warm water and
yeast in a medium bowl and stir with a
fork to dissolve the yeast. Let the mixture
stand for 3 minutes.
3. Add the cool water and biga to the
yeast mixture and mix with your fingers
for about 2 minutes, breaking up the
starter. The mixture should look milky
and slightly foamy.
4. Whisk the flour, cup of the cornmeal,
and the salt together in a large bowl. Pour
in the yeast mixture and mix with your
fingers until the dough forms a sticky
mass. If the dough feels too stiff, add cool
water 1 tablespoon at a time.
5. Move the dough to a very lightly floured
surface and knead for 5 to 8 minutes,
until it is smooth, elastic, supple, and

somewhat resilient. The dough will still

be somewhat firm. Put the dough back
into the mixing bowl, cover with oiled
plastic wrap, and let rest for 20 minutes
to smooth out and develop elasticity.
6. Drain the apricots. Spread out the
dough in the mixing bowl and evenly
sprinkle on the chopped sage and diced
apricots. Press them into the dough, then
pull the dough from the edges of the bowl
and fold it in toward the middle. Knead
the dough in the bowl until the fruit and
sage are incorporated, 1 to 2 minutes.
7. Gather the dough into a loose ball, lift it
up and oil the bowl, then place it back in
the bowl, along with any loose apricots.
Turn the dough to coat with oil, cover
the bowl with oiled plastic wrap, and let
it rise at room temperature (75 to 77F)
for 1 hour.
8. After 1 hour, turn the dough while it is
still in the mixing bowl. Gently deflate

the dough in the middle of the bowl with

your fingertips, then fold the left side
over the middle, and the right side over
the middle. Fold the dough in half, gently
pat it down, and then turn it over so the
seam is underneath. Let it rise again for
40 minutes to 1 hour, until it doubles in
volume. When the dough is fully risen,
an indentation made by poking your
finger deep into the dough should not
spring back.
9. Divide the dough into three equal
pieces, about 510 grams/18 ounces each.
Shape each piece into a boule.
10. Place the remaining cup cornmeal
in a bowl. Using a plant mister, spray
each loaf generously with water, then
roll the loaves in the cornmeal, coating
them completely. Place the loaves on the
work surface and press down gently to
flatten them into disks about 8 inches in
diameter.

2010 Top Ten Bread Bakers in America

Semolina Bread
with Apricots
and Sage

51

pastry
52

11. Line a peel and cover a baking sheet

with parchment paper and sprinkle with
cornmeal. Place one disk on the peel and
the others on the baking sheet, leaving
at least 4 inches between each loaf. If
you dont have a baking stone, place one
loaf on one baking sheet, and two on the
other to rise. Let the loaves rise for 45
minutes to 1 hour.
12. Thirty minutes before baking, preheat
the oven to 425F. Prepare the oven by
placing a cast-iron skillet and a smaller
pan (a mini loaf pan) on the floor of the
oven or on the lowest possible rack in
an electric oven. Place an oven rack
two rungs above the cast-iron pan, and
if you have one, put a baking stone on
the rack. Place another oven rack on the
rung just below the stone. Fill a plastic
spray bottle with water. Fill a teakettle
with water to be boiled later, and have a
metal 1-cup measure
with a straight handle
available near the
kettle.
13. Five to 10 minutes
before the loaves are
ready to bake, turn the
water on to boil, and
carefully place two or
three ice cubes in the
small loaf pan in the
bottom of the oven.
This helps to create
moisture in the oven
prior to baking.
14. Place an inverted
mug or glass with a 3to 4-inch opening in
the center of one disk.
Press it gently into
the dough, and use a
dough cutter to cut the
dough into 4 wedges,
starting at the edge of
the glass. Cut those wedges in half, then in
half again, so you have 16 segments. Give
each cut segment a quarter-turn so a cut
side is facing upward. If the dough feels
too sticky, dont twist the segmentsjust
leave them fl at and separate each one
slightly from the one next to it. Remove
the glass, leaving an uncut area in the
center of the loaf. Repeat the procedure
with the other 2 disks. Let the loaves rest
for 10 minutes before baking.
15. Make sure the parchment is not
sticking to the peel, open the oven door,
and gently slide the bread onto the stone.
Place the pan of bread on the rack below.
Or if using two baking sheets, place one
on the upper rack and one on the rack
below that. Quickly mist the loaves with
water 6 to 8 times, pour 1 cup of boiling
water into the skillet, and immediately
shut the oven door. After 1 minute,

quickly mist the loaves with water again,

then shut the oven door.
16. Bake for 10 minutes, then reduce the
oven temperature to 375F and bake for
15 to 18 minutes longer, until the loaves
are a golden yellow-brown and sound
hollow when tapped on the bottom. The
crust should be firm but not too dark;
watch the bread carefullyit will brown
quickly during the last few minutes of
baking. Place the loaves on wire racks
and cool completely before serving.

TIPS AND TECHNIQUES

Unbleached all-purpose flour with a

protein content of 11.7% was used in
the biga. We recommend using medium
cornmeal for this dough. Fine cornmeal
does not produce a contrasting texture,
and coarse cornmeal is too rough and
makes the bottom crust very tough. Bobs

with plastic wrap, for up to 24 hours. We

like breads made with biga because they
have a moist, chewy texture with more
flavor, a nicer crust, and a longer shelf
life than straight yeasted breads. These
are many of the same qualities that make
sourdough breads so appealing, but you
can achieve them without the extended
process of making a sourdough starter.

Small Batch

Makes 400 grams / 14 ounces / 1 cups

7 oz/200 g very warm water (105 to 115F)
1/8 tsp active dry yeast
8 oz/227 g unbleached all-purpose flour

Large Batch

Makes 800 grams / 28 ounces / 3 cups

Equipment: one 2-quart clear plastic or
glass container with high sides
14 oz/397 g very warm
water (105 to 115F)
tsp active dry yeast
16
oz/454
g
unbleached
allpurpose flour

Red Mill produces medium cornmeal

and corn grits (polenta). Both work well
for this dough.

Biga Starter
Many of our recipes use a biga starter
made from flour, water, and a small
amount of yeast. Biga, which is the Italian
word for starter, was called Sponge
Starter in the first version of Amys
Bread, but today the word biga is well
known by bread bakers so we decided to
use it here as well. Biga usually refers to
a starter made with yeast, not sourdough,
although sourdough biga (biga naturale)
can be found in some Italian recipes.
This starter, which is thicker than
poolish, is allowed to ferment for at least
8 hours. It can then be used immediately
or stored in the refrigerator, covered

1. In a medium bowl,
mix the warm water
and yeast together
and stir to dissolve the
yeast. Add the flour
and stir vigorously
with a wooden spoon
for 1 to 2 minutes, until
a smooth, somewhat
elastic batter has
formed. The batter
will be fairly thick and
stretchy; it gets softer
and more elastic after
it has risen. Scrape
the biga into the
container, mark the height of the starter
and the time on a piece of tape on the
side of the container so you can see how
much it rises, and cover the container
with plastic wrap.
2. Let it rise at room temperature (75 to
78F) for 6 to 8 hours. Or let it rise for 1
hour at room temperature, then chill it in
the refrigerator for 8 hours or overnight.
Remove it from the refrigerator and let it
sit at room temperature for 3 to 4 hours
to warm up and become active before
use. Biga should more than double in
volume. If you use the starter while its
still cold from the refrigerator, be sure
to compensate for the cold temperature
by using warm water (85F to 90F) in
your dough, instead of the cool water
specified in the recipe. Use the starter
while it is still bubbling up, but before it
starts to deflate.

C
a
o

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Edible

53

pastry

What are you trying to do differently? We are

always working on expanding our artisan bread
footprint to offer consumers a wide variety of high
quality breads to meet their daily needs. For example,
we now offer a line of Artisan Sliced Breads which
are great for making everyday sandwiches. Our Bake
at Home and Take n Bake lines allow consumers the
benefit of baking our bread in their own ovens, for
hot bread at the table at any time. For the last several
years we have been offering seasonal items based on
the best of the seasons ingredients.
How many types of bread do you make? Now its
over 100 varieties of bread.
Favorite type of bread to make: Focaccia. I am
working on teaching my chefs at Mozza 2 Go, our
take-out concept, how to make it. You can top your
focacce with just about anything you want, olives
and garlic, tomato and anchovies, grapes and goat
cheese.
Favorite bread to eat: White Table Bread is my
classic favorite, or Sourdough Batard.
Bread philosophy: Great bread, in my opinion,
takes time. It takes patience and care. You have to
be dedicated to the baking process. But the rewards
are great. Using high-quality, all natural ingredients
is very important, but minimally as not to get in the
way of the essential flavors of sourdough or wheat.

Nancy Silverton
La Brea Bakery
Owner: Aryzta, AG Founder,
Nancy Silverton
15963 Strathern Street, Van Nuys,
CA 91406
818-742-4242
www.labreabakery.com

Business profile: I founded La Brea Bakery in 1989. La

Brea Bakery is now the leading U.S. producer of par-baked
artisan breads distributed to foodservice and grocery
retail businesses.

54

How it all began: I first started making bread in the early

1980s while I was the pastry chef at Spago. Unfortunately
at that time I did not have any bread making skills, just a
recipe to follow. It wasnt until I undertook the challenge
of creating a full line of breads for La Brea Bakery that I
really began my education as a bread maker.

Signature products: Rosemary Olive Oil, Country

White, Olive Bread. Our Whole Grain breads
because of their healthful benefits.
Best compliment youve ever received about
your bread: In the mid-90s our Sourdough Loaf
was part of a blind taste test by the San Francisco
Chronicle. It went up against some of the premier
bakeries in the west, and won. Twice. Even though
it is a common misconception that sourdough
bread is a San Francisco invention, it is definitely
well known there. It was quite a surprise to
everyone that a bakery from Los Angeles won.
Best part of the bread business: Hearing the
personal stories from our customers about their
own traditions and how they love our breads. I
guess its knowing that we are bringing more than
just bread to their tables.
If you werent making bread, what would you be
doing? I would still be cooking in some way. This is
what I love to do, and all I really know how to do.
Whats next? We will continue to listen to our customers
and what they want, and then expand our selection of
offerings from here.
What direction do you see the bread baking industry
heading? The rest of the industry is following suit of what
we have been doing for over 20 years; all-natural artisan
breads. Breads have cleaner labels with less artificial
ingredients. Flavor profiles are becoming more diverse.
Whole grain offerings are being expanded. And we are
starting to see whole milled grains and flours.

1 lb, 2 oz/510 g cool water, 70F

12 oz/340 g White Starter (see recipe in: Nancy Silvertons
Breads From the La Brea Bakery)
2 lb, 2 oz/964 g unbleached white bread flour, plus extra for
dusting
cup raw wheat germ
4 tsp sea salt
Vegetable oil
1. Place water, White Starter, flour, and wheat germ in the
bowl of a mixer fitted with a dough hook. Mix on low speed
for 4 minutes. The dough should be sticky and pliable. (The
dough may also be mixed by hand). Cover the dough with a
proofing cloth and allow it to rest in the mixing bowl for 20
minutes.
2. Add salt and continue mixing on medium speed, scraping
the dough down the sides of the bowl as necessary with
a rubber spatula, until the dough reaches an internal
temperature of 78F, and feels soft and resilient. Knead the
dough for a few minutes by hand on a lightly floured work
surface.
3. Clean the mixing bowl and lightly coat it with vegetable oil.
Returned the dough to the oiled bowl, cover it tightly with
plastic wrap, and let it ferment at room temperature until it
doubles in volume, 3-4 hours.
4. Uncover the dough and turn it out onto a lightly floured
work surface. Using a dough cutter, cut the dough into two
equal pieces. Slap each piece against the work surface a few
times to deflate. Tuck under the edges of each piece, cover the
dough with a cloth, and let rest for 15 minutes.
5. Uncover the dough and round each piece into a boule.
Place the boules, smooth side down, into floured proofing
baskets. Cover each basket with a cloth and let the dough
proof at room temperature until it begins to show signs of
movement (it should rise about 1 inch), 1 -2 hours.
6. Remove the cloth and sprinkle the surface of the dough with
flour. Wrap each basket tightly in plastic wrap. Refrigerate
8-12 hours.
7. Remove the boules from the refrigerator, take off the plastic
wrap, and cover each basket with a cloth. Let the dough
continue proofing at room temperature until it reaches an
internal temperature of 58F, about 2-2 hours.
8. Preheat the oven to 500F, one hour before baking. Remove
the cloth and lightly dust the boules with flour. Carefully run
your hand around one boule to loosen it and gently invert it
onto a lightly floured bakers peel. With a single-edged razor
blade held perpendicular to the boule, slash a backward C
on top of the boule. Each cut should be deep and begin about
1 from the top of the boule, curving down to the bottom edge.
Open the oven door, spritz the oven heavily with water from
a spray bottle, and quickly close the door. Open the oven door
again, slide the boule onto the baking tiles, and quickly close
the door. Cut, spritz, and load the second boule in the same
manner.
9. Reduce the oven temperature to 450F. Spritz the oven two
more times during the next 5 minutes. Refrain from opening
the oven door for the next 20 minutes.
10. After 20 minutes, check the boules and rotate them if
necessary to ensure even baking. Continue baking for 15 to 20
more minutes, for a total of 40 to 45 minutes.
11. Remove the boules to a cooling rack. The finished boules
will have a burnished brown crust.

2010 Top Ten Bread Bakers in America

The Basic Loaf:

Country White

55

pastry

Business profile: We bake

and deliver the best bread
that we can make every day
to people who ask us for it.

That
doesnt
really answer the
question but I just
thought Id put it
out there.

How it all began: I first

started baking bread as a
hobby when I was working
at Chez Panisse restaurant
during my first stint as a
student at UC Berkeley.
Eventually the bread I
was making was better
than what the restaurant
could find, so Alice asked
if I would bake bread for
the restaurant. Soon other
shops and restaurants were
asking if they could get better bread as well, so my wife
and I opened Acme Bread as a way of filling a void in the
food community that
we were part of.

S i g n a t u r e
products: I guess
our Pain au Levain
and
baguettes
are the most wellknown of our
breads. But we
dont sign them.

Best compliment
youve
ever
received
about
your bread: The fact that people
still want it and keep buying it is
the most gratifying
compliment
I
could
imagine.
Compliments
that
had the most impact
on me, personally,
were probably those
The Acme Bread Company
that came while I
was baking bread at
Owners: Steven and Susan Sullivan,
Chez Panisse and
Doug Volkmer, Rick Kirkby, Drew
would fill in for a sick
busboy. So I would
Westcott, & Claudio de Rezende
end up serving bread
2730 Ninth Street, Berkeley;
that I had baked to the
customers and then I
1601 San Pablo Ave, Berkeley;
would see them eat it
The Ferry Building, San Francisco;
and then they would
ask me where it came
846 Independence Avenue,
from. The looks on
Mountain View
peoples faces when
they heard that the
510-843-2978
busboy had baked
their bread were
priceless.

What are you trying

to do differently?
Since
our
goals
revolve
around
baking
the
best
bread that we can,
we expand only in
response do actual
demand and typically
only by allowing
existing employees to
buy into the company
as owners. We do not
advertise or market
our bread. Since we
think of bakeries
as serving actual
communities, when
we have expanded
into a new area and
required additional
production
we
have
built
a
fully functioning bakery in that location, rather than
centralizing production in an ever-larger facility.

Steven Sullivan

How many types of bread do you make? A couple of

dozen.
Favorite type of bread to make: Naturally-leavened
breads (sourdoughs).
Favorite bread to eat: In our area there are too many
good bakeries making too many good breads to name just
one. But our Pain au Levain is an old friend and a great
all-around bread.
Bread philosophy: I love bread and I love making things.

56

Best part of the

bread business: The fact that you can make the very
best possible bread and that virtually anyone can afford
it. Also, that somehow our niche of the bread business
seems to allow a lot of great bakeries to succeed and
coexist without having to become vicious, greedy, and
exploitative.
If you werent making bread, what would you be doing?
Maybe I would be an architect or an archeologist.
What direction do you see the bread baking industry
heading? I see a continuation of the trend away from
industrial, factory-made bread and towards carefullymade breads, made by skilled bakers for their own
communities.

57

2010 Top Ten Bread Bakers in America

pastry

How many types of bread do you

make? We mix about 25-30 different
doughs on an average day. Within
each type there are numerous shapes
and sizes. During the farmers market
season I try to add a few different
varieties each week as specials to
keep the regulars interested and
excited.
Favorite type of bread to make: I
think my all-time favorite bread to
make is the classic French baguette.
When something is so simple, there
is no opportunity to hide any faults
in the final product. It is one of the
hardest breads to make consistently. I
like the challenge, and no matter how
many I make, I always want to make
the next one better than the last.

Jeff Yankellow
Simply Bread
Owner: Basic Food Group, LLC
2117 N. 24th Street,
Phoenix, AZ 85008
602-244-1778
www.simplybread.com

Photos by Joe Burns

Business profile: Simply Bread is a wholesale bakery with an

artisan bread line serving the Phoenix metropolitan area. The
customer base is made up of supermarkets, restaurants, resorts,
and specialty markets.
How it all began: I have been in the food business since I was 14
years old. I always had a passion for baking bread, but pursued
a career in cooking first with dreams of owning a restaurant
one day. About 11 years ago, I made the switch and have been
baking bread ever since.
What are you trying to do differently? I am motivated by
something once said by one of my mentors, Charlie Trotter. Its
not my priority to be the best at what I do but more important
to be the only one doing what I do. Basically what that means
to me is that my bread and the bakery is a reflection of me and
my style, which has developed over time and been influenced
by what I have learned from the people around me throughout
my career. Within that style I try to do everything I can to
make bread to the highest standards I know. This idea goes
throughout the whole business. It is reflected in our customer
service, the professionalism of our drivers, how we answer the
phone, and how we treat our employees. No job is too small and
every person in the organization is important to the success of
the business.

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Favorite bread to eat: The bread I like most is

ciabatta. I love the flavor, the texture, and the
versatility. It is compatible with any food.

Bread philosophy: My philosophy on bread is

simple. I have always loved bread because in
my mind it is one of the few foods that exist in
every part of the world and culture regardless
of socioeconomic factors. I have always been
fascinated with the idea that a few basic
ingredients can be transformed into something
so different than the original ingredients. I
appreciate all types of bread from plain and
simple to complex. The one thing that is a must
for me is that regardless of what is added to the
bread such as seeds, or nut, or fruit, the actual
base bread has to be able to stand on its own
even without those ingredients. We are using the word artisan
to describe a process that at one time was the only way bread
was made. It had to be made that way because of the lack of
technology and ingredients. I want to make bread in a way that
uses modern technology and processes but pays respect to the
techniques and traditions of the past.
Signature products: Just like most chefs, my signature item
was not something I planned. We make a cranberry walnut
bread that has white and whole wheat flour, rye sourdough,
organic walnuts, organic jumbo raisins, cranberries, cracked
wheat, and cracked rye. My intentions were to create a bread
that was full bodied and substantial but also appealed to the
indulgent side of people. Just like all of my breads it is made
from a well fermented dough that is complemented with the
addition of high quality ingredients. I havent met anyone
that hasnt liked it. My Challah and Raisin Challah have also
become a signature. It may not be what most people think of
when they think of artisan bread, but it is made in the same
style as our other breads. It has a lot of prefermented flour in
the formula resulting in complexity of flavor and aroma. Its
sweetened primarily with a desert wildflower honey from
Flagstaff, Arizona, about two hours north of the bakery. The
final bread is very moist and has a lot of body to it; its not just
fluff. We use an organic jumbo Thompson raisin for the Raisin
Challah which is something a lot of people have never seen
before.

Best part of the bread business: The

people. Bakers are a humble breed, in
my opinion. I get to work with so many
great people every day. My best friends
are bakers and they are the most sharing
group of people I know.

Cranberry walnut raisin.

If you werent making bread, what

would you be doing? I would probably be
cooking. I spent 10 years
cooking before I turned to
baking. I still love to cook
but as a profession I enjoy
making bread.
If you had to characterize
yourself as a type of
bread, what would you
be? Ciabatta it displays
the key characteristics
of humility, pride, and
respect.
The
humble
appearance
doesnt
scream for attention,
but once you tear it
open, the crust reveals a
complex web of texture
and flavors that has
developed over a long
Challah roll.
period of fermentation.
It pays respect to the
tradition of artisan baking
in that it uses long fermentation to achieve a result that would

otherwise not be possible.

From four to five simple
ingredients a mass of flour
and water becomes a fully
developed bread. This is the
same as my career path. I have
gotten to the place where I am
today as a result of hard work,
education and nurturing from
a lot of people. Over time all
of these ingredients have
culminated in the development
of me as a baker and a person.
Whats next? I dont know
what the future holds for
sure other than growing the
business and focusing on the
details, so that with growth,
quality continues to improve
and not decline. Currently my
bakery is primarily wholesale
with a very small retail outlet.
One day down the line I may like to open a small neighborhood
bakery.

2010 Top Ten Bread Bakers in America

Best compliment youve ever received

about your bread: I think the best
compliment came from a woman who
walked into our retail store and by her own
admission was almost brought to tears
when she tasted a loaf that reminded her
of the bread she ate as a child. It doesnt
say much about the bread actually but it
means that the bread made an emotional
connection with her which is a very good
feeling to see.

What direction do you see the bread

baking industry heading? I think that
smaller local bakeries will continue to
establish themselves in neighborhoods
around the country. Artisan bread is only
a small part of the overall bread market in
this country, and I dont think that is going
to change drastically any time soon. But I
do think the appreciation for artisan bread
and other artisan foods will continue to
grow, as the appreciation for local and
pristine ingredients continues to grow. I
think this demand will influence the larger
operations and force the more commercial
bread producers to change for the better.

Green olive bread.

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pastry

Sesame Flame

29.38 oz/833 g Whole Wheat Sponge (34.8% bp)

30.8 oz/876 g Liquid Levain (36.7% bp)
63.73 oz/1.807 kg water (75.6% bp)
21 oz/597 g natural brown sesame seeds (25% bp)

Dough yield: 10 kg
This is a bread that I made for the Coupe du Monde de la
Boulangerie in Paris in 2005. The hydration level is very high
resulting in a thin crisp crust and a very irregular crumb
structure. The whole grains in the bread, combined with the
flavor of the seeds will result in a very nutty flavor. The shape
was unique for me because typically doughs of this hydration
are simply cut as a square or rectangle because it is difficult to
handle such soft dough.

Spelt poolish:

42.15 oz/1.195 kg bread flour, winter wheat 14.5% protein (70.6% bp)
17.56 oz/498 g whole spelt flour
(29.4% bp)
59.7 oz/1.693 kg water (100% bp)
.07 oz/2 g instant yeast (.1% bp)
Adjust the temperature of the
water so that the final temperature
of the poolish is 72-74F. Place the
water in the bowl with the flour
and yeast and mix in slow speed
until the ingredients are well
blended. Place the mixed poolish
in a bowl and allow it to rest
covered at 73F for approximately
12 hours. Be sure to allow room for
the poolish to grow 2 to 3 times in
volume.

Whole wheat sponge:

17.56 oz/498 g whole wheat flour

(100% bp)
11.78 oz/334 g water (67% bp)
.035 oz/1 g instant yeast (.1% bp)

Sesame flame crumb.

Adjust the temperature of the water so that the final temperature

of the sponge is 72-74F. Place the water in the bowl with the
flour and yeast and mix in slow speed until the ingredients are
well blended. Place the mixed sponge in a bowl and allow it
to rest covered at 73F for approximately 12 hours. The sponge
will grow 2 to 3 times in volume.

Liquid levain:

14 oz/398 g bread flour, winter wheat 14.5% protein (100% bp)

14 oz/398 g water (100% bp)
2.8 oz/80 g white starter (20% bp)
Adjust the temperature of the water so that the final temperature
of the levain is 72-74F. Place the water in the bowl with the
flour and starter and mix in slow speed until the ingredients are
well blended. The starter is a mature white starter fed the same
way as the levain. Place the mixed levain in a bowl and allow
it to rest covered at 73F for approximately 12 hours. The levain
will double in volume.

Final dough:

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84.3 oz/2.39 kg bread flour, winter wheat 14.5% protein (100% bp)
.35 oz/10 g instant yeast (.4% bp)
3.5 oz/100 g salt (4.2% bp)
7.47 lb/3.388 kg Spelt Poolish (141.7%)

1. In the bowl of a spiral mixer or a vertical planetary mixer

with the hook attachment place all of the preferments and the
final dough ingredients, with the exception of the sesame seeds
and water. Adjust the water temperature so the final dough
temperature is 73F-76F.
2. Add 85-90% of the total water to the bowl and begin mixing
in first speed for 3-5 minutes or until the ingredients are
incorporated. Turn the mixer off and allow the dough to rest
for 15 minutes. Turn the mixer to low speed for 1 minute. The
dough should have a soft but firm consistency. Turn the mixer to
high speed for 2 minutes or until the dough begins to pull away
from the sides
of
the
bowl.
As soon as this
begins to happen
start
adding
the
remaining
water while the
mixer is running
in high speed.
When the water
is
incorporated,
stop the mixer and
check for gluten
development. The
gluten should be
at a medium stage
of development.
Adding the water
in two stages will
allow this dough
to develop more
efficiently. Turn the
mixer back to slow speed and add the sesame seeds. Mix until
the seeds are well distributed.
3. Place the dough in a covered container and leave at room
temperature, approximately 74 F for a total of 2 hours. After 30
minutes punch and fold the dough and return to the container.
Repeat this step after another 30 minutes, and again 30 minutes
after that.
4. At the end of the 2 hours divide the dough in1 lb, 4 oz/550g
pieces and preshape as a loose ball. Cover and allow the dough
pieces to rest for 20 minutes.
5. Shape the rested balls of dough into a tight batard, being
gentle not to damage the cell structure of the dough too much.
To finish, using a bench knife cut the dough pieces along the
center, lengthwise, leaving 1 inch on each end uncut so that the
final piece resembles an eye when pulled gently apart. Place
the cut sides of dough into a pan of sesame seeds and place the
piece of dough onto linen to proof with the sesame seeds facing
down. Place the loaves in a draft free place at approximately
74 F for 20-30 minutes to proof. Alternately, the dough can be
cut simply as would be done for a ciabatta. The proofing is very
short due to the high water content and weak structure of the
dough.
6. Turn the loaves over onto the oven loading device, and
arrange so that the piece looks like a flame, by positioning the
opposite ends of the bread in opposing directions. Bake with
steam at 475 F for approximately 30 minutes. Vent the steam
from the oven and continue to bake for an additional 5 minutes.
Remove the bread from the oven and allow to cool.

Tom McMahon

Left to right:
the late Lionel
Poilne, Melinda
McMahon and Tom
McMahon.

2010 Top Ten Bread Bakers in America

2010 Bread Bakers

Hall of Fame Honoree:

Baking was a second career for Pittsburgh lawyer Tom McMahon. In 1979 he co-founded Breadworks, the first artisan
bread bakery in Pittsburgh. He attended the first Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie, the World Cup of Baking, in Paris
in 1992, and was inspired by the idea that an American team might someday compete in the international event.
In 1993 McMahon founded the non-profit Bread Bakers Guild of America and served as The Guilds first director.
Under his direction, the Guild community, which began with 458 members, more than doubled in its first ten years.
He was responsible for bringing legendary French bakers Lionel Poilne, Christian Vabret, and Raymond Calvel to the
United States to share their knowledge with American bakers, and he persuaded master baker Didier Rosada to move
from France to pursue a teaching career in the U.S.
In 1994 the first American team competed in the Coupe du Monde, and in 1996 Bread Bakers Guild Team U.S.A. won a
gold medal in the Coupe -- accomplishments which were the direct result of McMahons vision and efforts.
In 1997, McMahon stepped down as Executive Director of The Guild to become Project Director at the National Baking
Center. In honor of his many achievements in the field of artisan baking, The Guild presented McMahon with the
Lionel Poilne Award in 2003.
McMahon served as President of the Jury at the 2005 Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie and now lives with his wife
Melinda in Italy, where he bakes bread in a wood-fired brick oven for his family and guests.

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