Difference Between Sewing Method and Alternative

Method
Difference Between Sewing Method and Alternative Method
Mayedul Islam
Merchandiser at Fashion Xpress Buying House.
Badda, Dhaka, Bangladesh.
Email: mayedul.islam66@gmail.com

Introduction:
In readymade garments industry, fabrics are joined by using two methods for making the
garments where one is sewing method and another is alternative method. Both methods
contain some features which shown in this article by using table.

Fabric joining method followed in apparel industry

Sewing Method:
It is the most used sewing method in garments manufacturing industry. Sewing method is
done by usingneedle and thread. One of the important advantage of this method is
that, fabrics can be sewn again by opening defective stitch.

Sewing method

Alternative Method:
This method is not used as sewing method. Here, fabrics are joined by using adhesive, fusion
glueing, stapling and moulding. Here, fabrics cannot be joined again by opening defective
stitch.

Alternative fabric joining method

Comparison Between Sewing Method and Alternative Method:

SL No.
01
02
03
04
05
06
07
08

09

Sewing Method
Garments are joined here by
using needle and thread.
Garments
become
soft
to
thesewing line.
It is comfortable during the end
use.
The production of seam by using
this method contains higher
strength.
Fabrics can be joined here by
sewing at the higher speed.

Alternative Method
Two or more fabrics are joined here by using
fusion glueing, stapling, moulding and adhesive.
The fabrics becomes stiff and rough to the sewing line
(Which is not appropriate for moulding).
It is not comfortable during the end use (Not perfect for
moulding).

Here, the seam strength is comparatively less

thansewing method.
Fabrics are joined here comparatively at lower speed
than sewing method.
All the fabrics cannot be joined by using this method.
Most of the fabrics are joined by The fabrics must contain 65% thermoplastic fibre for
using sewing method.
using this method.
It is most useful and universal
method.
The using of this method is rare.
Here, the fabrics can be sewn Here, the fabrics cannot be joined again by opening
defective or faulty stitch.
again by opening faulty stitch.
The bondings of stitches are not
water resistant due to the hole
made by needle at the sewing Here, the bondings of stitches are water resistant at
line.
the sewing line.

10

The probability of seam slippage

is
higher
in
case The probability of seam slippage is comparatively
ofsynthetic fabric.
lower than sewing method.

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Comparison Between Chain Stitch and Lock Stitch

By Mayedul Islam | March 14, 2016
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Comparison Between Chain Stitch and Lock Stitch
Mayedul Islam
Merchandiser at Fashion Xpress Buying House.
Badda, Dhaka, Bangladesh.
Email: mayedul.islam66@gmail.com

Chain Stitch:
The stitch which is formed by two or more sets of sewing thread (needle thread and looper
thread) is called chain stitch. Here, threads are bound together by interlacing and looping. It
should be noted here that, chain stitch strength is greater than lock stitch and back tacking is not
needed at finishing side of stitch as security.

Chain stitch

Lock Stitch:
The stitch which is formed by two sets of sewing thread (needle thread and bobbin thread) is
called lock stitch. Back tacking is needed here as security at the starting and finishing side of
stitch.

Lock stitch

Difference Between Chain Stitch and Lock Stitch:

SL No.
01

Chain Stitch
Lock Stitch
Chain stitch is formed by two or more sets Lock stitches are formed by two sets
of threads named needle thread and ofthread named needle thread and bobbin

02
03
04
05
06
07
08
09

looper thread.
Thread consumption of chain stitch is
higher than lock stitch.
In case of chain stitch, sewing threadsare
bound together by interloping and
interlacing.

thread.
Thread consumption of lock stitch is less
than chain stitch.

Here, sewing threads are bound together by

interlacing.
Here seam puckering possibility is less
Seam puckering possibility is more here. than chain stitch.
Strength of chain stitch is greater than lock
Strength of lock stitch is less than chain
stitch.
stitch.
In case of chain stitch, extensibility stands
normally at 30%.
Here, extensibility is less than 30%.
Chain stitch machine speed normally kept Here, machine speed normally kept at
at 8000spm.
6000spm.
Here, appearance of stitch is looked like
lock stitch at top side and double chain at Here, appearance of stitch is same in both
under side.
side.
Here, back tacking is not needed at Here, back tacking is needed in starting
and finishing end of stitch.
finishing end of stitch.

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Types of Stitch Used in Garments

By Mayedul Islam | October 22, 2015
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Types of Stitch Used in Garments
Mayedul Islam
Merchandiser at Fashion Xpress Buying House.
Badda, Dhaka, Bangladesh.
Email: mayedul.islam66@gmail.com

Stitch:
Stitch is very important during manufacturing a garment. Stitch can be defined as, one unit
of conformation resulting from one or more strands or loops of thread by intra-looping, inter-

looping and interlacing. Stitch quality is measured with stitch size, stitch length, width, depth,
tension, sequence, elongation, elasticity, resilience, fabric distortion, yarn severance and
abrasive strength. There are six types of stitch, which are deeply discussed in this article.
Types of Stitch Used in Garments:
There are different types of stitch used in garments; those are mentioned in the following:
1.
Class-100 (Chain Stitch),
2.
Class-200 (Hand Stitch),
3.
Class-300 (Lock Stitch),
4.
Class-400 (Multi Thread Stitch),
5.
Class-500 (Over Edge Stitch),
6.
Class-600 (Covering Chain Stitch).
All the above types of stitch have discussed in the below:
1. Class-100 (Chain Stitch):
Class-100 named as chain stitch, which is produced by one or more needle threads and are
characterized by interloping. In chain stitch, one needle thread is passed through the fabric, form
needle loop and is secured by the next loop formed by the same thread. It should be noted that,
chain stitch is elastic and thicker than lock stitch and can easily be raveled, where particular
care is required to prevent run back from the last stitch.

Class-100 (Chain Stitch)

Class-100 (Chain Stitch) has three types- 101, 103 and 104. These types of stitch is used in
hemming, belt loops, padding operations and felling.
2. Class-200 (Hand Stitch):
Class-200 named as hand stitch which is produced from a single thread. This single thread is
passed through the fabric from one side to another and the stitch is secured by the single line of
thread passing in and out of the garment.

Class-200 (Hand Stitch)

Class-200 (Hand Stitch) has four types- running basting, back stitch, diagonal basting and
buttonholestitch. These types of stitch is used for stitching costly dresses, jackets and sample
dresses.
3.Class-300 (Lock Stitch):
Class-300 named as lock stitch which is produced with two or more groups of threads and two
threads are joined by interlacing. Here, loops of one group are passed through the fabric and
are secured by the thread of second group, where one group is referred as needle thread and
other as bobbin thread. Class-300 (Lock Stitch) has enough strength and same appearance on
both sides.

Class-300 (Lock Stitch)

Class-300 (Lock Stitch) has four types- 301. 304, 308 and 309. These types of stitch is used for
stitching underwear, most types and apparels and decorative purposes.
4.Class-400 (Multi Thread Stitch):
Class-400 named as multi thread stitch which is formed with two or more groups of threads.
Here, loops of one group of thread are passed through the fabric and are secured by interlacing
and interloping with loops of another group. Among two groups, one group is called needle
thread and another group is called looper thread.

Class-400 (Multi Thread Stitch)

Class-400 (Multi Thread Stitch) has an appearance of lock stitch on the top but has a double
chain effect formed by a looper thread on the under-side.
Class-400 (Multi Thread Stitch) has three types- 401, 404 and 406. These types of stitch is used
for setting elastic in waist bands and decorative stitching on belts.
5.Class-500 (Over Edge Stitch):
Class-500 named as over edge stitch which is formed with one or more groups of threads. In
Class-500 (Over Edge Stitch), one group of thread passes around the edge of fabric so that no
thread from the fabric can come out. The most used stitch of this type have one or two needle
threads and one or two looper threads and thus forms a narrow band of stitching along the edge
of the fabric.

Class-500 (Over Edge Stitch)

Class-500 (Over Edge Stitch) has three types- 503, 504 and 512. This type of stitch is used for
edge neatening of knitted fabrics, where extensibility of stitches is important, also used for
sportswear and dance wear garments.
6. Class-600 (Covering Chain Stitch):
Class-600 named as covering chain stitch which is produced with three groups of threads. Here,
threads of two groups can be seen from either side. In class-600 (Covering Chain Stitch), the
first group of thread is called needle thread, second group is called top cover thread and the
third group is called bottom cover thread.

Covering Chain Stitch

Class-600 (Covering Chain Stitch) is very complex and up to 9 threads can be used in producing
this types of stitch.
Class-600 (Covering Chain Stitch) has three types- 602, 605 and 607. These types of stitch is
used for knits, lingerie, binding elastics, decoration, etc.

Speech from the writer:

If you read this article with full concentration then you can answer the following questions in the
interview:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.

Describe various types of stitch used in garments.

Mention the list of sewing stitches.
Describe the types of stitch used in garments.
Describe different types of stitch.
Describe different types of garment stitches.
Describe the classification of stitches.

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Principle of Chain Stitch Formation Technique

By Mayedul Islam | March 20, 2016
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Principle of Chain Stitch Formation Technique
Mayedul Islam
Merchandiser at Fashion Xpress Buying House.
Badda, Dhaka, Bangladesh.
Email: mayedul.islam66@gmail.com

Introduction:
Chain stitch is one of the most used stitches in garments. There are so many who still dont
know thestitch formation technique of chain stitch. As a person from the readymade
garments industry, everybody should know about it. As its importance, this article has shown
an easy explanation for the principle of chain stitch formation technique.
Chain Stitch:
Chain stitch is made by using one or more group of sewing threads. The stitch which is formed
by using two or more groups of sewing thread is called multi thread chain stitch. Here, the loop
of one group sewing threads is bounded by interloping with the loop of another group of sewing
threads. Stitch type-401 is called multi thread chain stitch and following are the steps referred
as the principle of stitch type-401 formation.

Chain stitch formation technique

Chain Stitch Formation Technique Followed in Apparel Industry:

Chain stitch is produced by following the below steps.
Step-01:
1.
Needle is entered through the fabric with the sewing thread and reaches into its lower
position.
2.
Needle contains the old loop around its blade.
3.
A new loop is formed when needle moves upward a little.
Step-02:
1.
New loop is caught by the looper (above the needle eye below the old loop).
2.
Needle moves upward.
3.
The old loop is cast off from the needle blade and slides on base of the new loop that is
still held by the looper.
4.
Interlacement is occurred under the fabric (between the new loop and old loop).

5.

In the same time, fabric is also moved one stitch forward due to the feed dog
mechanism.
Step-03:
1.
The looper enlarges the new loop.
2.
So that when needle again entered through the fabric, it passes through the loop.
3.
The looper leaves the loop which is held on the needle blade.
4.
This loop now becomes the old loop.

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Alternative Methods of Fabric Joining Applied in

Apparel Industry
By Mayedul Islam | May 27, 2016
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Alternative Methods of Fabric Joining Applied in Apparel Industry
Alternative Methods of Joining Fabric:
To join the fabric, sewing process is done by using needle and sewing thread. It is the oldest
and widely used method in readymade garments industry. But there are some fabric joining
process comes by researching with a long time though those have some limitations such
as seam appearance, joining speed, seam performance etc. In case of some special cases,
those alternative methods have to apply for fabric joining in lieu of normal sewing method.
Those methods have discussed in this article.
Alternative Methods of Fabric Joining Applied in Garment Industry:
There are four methods which are normally applied for fabric joining in lieu of
normal sewing methods. Those ares1.
Fusing,
2.
Welding,
3.
Adhesive,
4.
Molding.

All the above processes or methods have explained in the below:

1. Fusing:
It is the most used method among the four alternative fabric joining methods. Normally it is used
to attachinterlining. Here, firstly the part of apparel which is to be fused spread and then the

resonated interlining surface is placed on it. Finally required pressure and temperature applied
here smoothly. Resin on coating of interlining is melt by heat into the fabric under pressure.
When it becomes cool and hard both thefabric and interlining are attached.

Fusing fabric joining method

2. Welding:
In this method, fabrics are joined in a limited quantity. By using this types of methods, two or
more fabric plies which have made by at least 65% thermoplastic fibres can be attached by
providing heat and pressure along the seam line.

Welding fabric joining method

Here, heat is generated by ultrasonic process. By generating heat, the thermoplastic fibres in
the fabrics are melted and the melted polymers are joined by applying required pressure. In this
method, transducer is used to transfer electricity into vibration which is about 20000 Hz per
second.
3. Adhesive:
Adhesive means a substance which causes fibres, yarns, fabrics or other materials to adhere or
stick together. There are two types of adhesive available for joining the fabrics. Those ares
By using a silicon paper, containing a thin layer of adhesive in which fabrics are joined
after placing.

By using a solid adhesive, this will be melted under heat. As a result fabrics are joined
together.

Adhesive fabric joining method

Adhesive threads can be used as looper thread for neatening the edge of fabrics. Normally
adhesivethread is melted by applying heat and pressure by folding the neaten edge and joined
with the fabrics during making of hem.
4. Molding:
By using this method, one or more plies of fabrics cannot be joined though it is placed as an
alternative method of fabric joining. Molding helps to give specific shape to
the garments without creating any seam. The shape is given to the fabrics by stretching or
shrinking and the entered thermoplastic fibres are softening by applying heat. After that
temperature is decreased to be normal. As a result, the new shape or area of fabrics are made.
It is done in case of knitted fabrics because it is easy to stretch or shrink the fabrics.
-Written by

Mayedul Islam

Merchandiser at Fashion Xpress Buying House.

Badda, Dhaka, Bangladesh.
Email: mayedul.islam66@gmail.com

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Important Difference Between Lining and

Interlining
By Mayedul Islam | January 19, 2016
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Difference Between Lining and Interlining
Mayedul Islam
Merchandiser at Fashion Xpress Buying House.
Badda, Dhaka, Bangladesh.
Email: mayedul.islam66@gmail.com

Introduction:
Lining and interlining is one of the most important factors in readymadee garments sector.
Both of those have to complete perfectly during garments manufacturing. Lining and interlining
has some basic differences which are discussed in this article perfectly.

Interlining and Lining

Lining:
Lining is a generic term used to cover the inner surfaces of garments specially when inner face
employs different materials from the outer surface. Generally smooth and lustrous fabrics made
of silk or manufactured fibre or cotton is used in lining. Lining is used to feel comfort and to
prevent wear on a side. This is generally applied in jackets and coats.
Interlining:
Interning is one kind of accessories which is used between two layers of fabrics in
the garments. Generally, the fabrics made from polyester, cotton, nylon are used in interlining.
Interlining is normally used in cuffs, collar etc.
Comparison Between Lining and Interlining:

SL No.

01
02
03
04

Differential
Maters

Lining
Interlining
It is a generic term which is used
to cover the inner surface of
the garments, specially when It is one kind of accessorieswhich
inner face employs different is used between two layers
of fabrics in a garment.
Definition
materials from the outer surface.
It is used to support, reinforce,
It is used to fell comfort and to control area of garments and to
Objects
prevent wear on a side.
retain actual shape.
Smooth and lustrous fabrics made The fabrics made of nylon, cotton,
of cotton or silk is used in case of polyester; wool and viscose are
Raw material used lining.
used in case of interlining.
It can be used lustrous wool fabric It can be used canvas, flannel and
Fabric type
or silk filling.
non-woven fabrics.

05

Joining method

06

Application

It is joined by sewing.

It is joined by sewing and fusing.

It is generally used in collar, cuffs
It is generally applied in jackets and the front part of the jackets
and coats.
and coats.

Different Types of Fusible Interlining Used in

Garment Industry
By Mayedul Islam | March 24, 2016
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Different Types of Fusible Interlining Used in Apparel Industry
Mayedul Islam
Merchandiser at Fashion Xpress Buying House.
Badda, Dhaka, Bangladesh.
Email: mayedul.islam66@gmail.com

Fusible Interlining:
Fusible interlining is one kinds of interlining which is fixed with the garment components by
applying heat and pressure for certain period of time. Various types of fusible interlining which
are significantly used in apparel manufacturing industry has mentioned in this article.
Classification of Fusible Interlining:
Fusible interning is classified into six types. Those are1.

PVC coated interlining,

2.

PVA coated interlining,

3.

Polyethylene coated interlining,

4.

Polyester coated interlining,

5.

Poly amide coated interlining,

6.

Poly propylene coated interlining.

All the above types of fusible interlining have explained in the below:

1. PVC coated fusible interning:

PVC (poly vinyl) coated is used as resin coating.

PVC coated is suitable for both dry cleaning and washable garments.

It is significantly used for making the coat type garments.

PVC coated interlining

2. PVA coated fusible interlining:

PVC (polyvinyl acetate) is used as resin coating.

Polyvinyl acetate coated interlining is not dry cleanable and it has limited wash ability.

Low pressure and temperature is required here which is used between the leather and
far materials.

Here, the resin is normally in the form of a continuous plasticizing coating on the base
fabric.

PVA coated fusible interlining is rarely used in garments manufacturing industry.

PVA coated interlining

3. Polyethylene coated fusible interlining:

Here, polyethylene is used as resin coating.

The impact of varying the density of the resin is to give a greater resistance to
dry cleaningsolvents and a higher softening point with increasing elasticity.

Polyethylene coated fusible interlining is used in collar, cuff of shirt.

The fabric which is attached with this type of interlining can be washed in water.

Polyethylene coated interlining

4. Polyester coated fusible interlining:

In case of polyester coated fusible interlining, polyester is used as resin coating.

Here, polyester resins are used in washable dry cleanable garments. Because polyester
is less water absorbent than poly amide.

Polyester coated fusible interlining can be used in all types of garments.

This is termed as ideal interlining.

It is available in market though costly in price.

Polyester coated interlining

5. Poly amide coated fusible interlining:

In case of Poly amide coated fusible interlining, poly amide is used as resin coating.

Poly amide coated interlining is widely used in dry cleaning solvents.

Higher temperature fusing is done for the garments which are washed at 60 degree
temperature.

Poly amide coated interlining

6. Polypropylene coated fusible interlining:

Polypropylene coated fusible interlining is similar to the properties of polyethylene coated

interlining.

Comparatively higher temperature fusing is done here.

The fabric which is attached with this interlining can be washed with the water.

Polypropylene coated interlining

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Properties of Fusible Interlining

Fusible Interlining | Properties of Fusible Interlining
Mayedul Islam
Merchandiser at Fashion Xpress Buying House.
Badda, Dhaka, Bangladesh.
Email: mayedul.islam66@gmail.com

Introduction:
There are two types of interlining used in readymade garments sector. Fusible interlining is
one of those. It has great importance during sewing the garments in apparel manufacturing
industry. Fusible interning follows some properties which has mentioned in this article.

Fusible Interlining

Fusible Interlining:
The interlining which can be fixed with the garments components by applying heat and
pressure for certain period of time is called fusible interlining. During fusing, recommended
temperature needed 165-170C where fusing time needed 2-20sec and pressure depends on
fusing technique.
Characteristics of Fusible Interlining:
Fusible interlining contains the below properties:
1.
2.
3.
4.

5.

Here, the fusing is done by using perfect temperature so that there is no hampering
of fabric color.
The maximum temperature of fusing should not be more than 175
The minimum temperature of this interlining should not be less than 110
The minimum temperature should be applied during fusing otherwise it will create
problem in the bonding between garments fabric and interlining during washing or end
using of garments.
The bond of fusible interlining should not be opened or hampered due to washing or
dry cleaning.

6.

After completing this type of interlining it should contain the stiffness and drape
properties ofgarments.
7.
The color of fusible interlining must be white or transparent, but it can be different in color
according to the fusing requirements.
8.
This type of interlining should be done as that the color of garment cannot be changed
due to the color of interlining.
9.
The interlining should not be toxic to the human body during the end use of garments.

Speech

from

the

writer:

If you read this article with full concentration then you can easily answer the below questions in
the interview:
1.
What do you understand by fusible interlining?
2.
Point out various features of fusible interlining.
3.
Mention some prominence of fusible interlining.

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Types of Interlining Used in Apparel Industry

By Mayedul Islam | February 7, 2016
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Types of Interlining Used in Apparel Industry
Mayedul Islam
Merchandiser at Fashion Xpress Buying House.
Badda, Dhaka, Bangladesh.
Email: mayedul.islam66@gmail.com

Introduction:
Interlining is one of the most important accessories in readymade garments sector. During
apparel manufacturing, interlining is used between two layers of fabric to support, re-enforce
and control areas of apparel. There are two types of interlining is used in apparel
manufacturing industry which are explained in this article.
Classification of Interlining:
There are two types of interlining used in apparel industry. Those are1.
2.

Non fusible interlining or sewn interlining,

Fusible interlining.

All the above two types have discussed in the below:

1. Non fusible interlining or sewn interlining:

The interlining which could be fixed with the apparel components by sewing that is known as
non fusible or sewn interlining. A piece of fabric is treated with starch and allowed to dry for the
preparation of sewn interlining and finally sewn with the main fabric.

Non fusible or sewn interlining

Advantage of Non fusible interlining or sewn interlining:

Various advantages of Non fusible interlining or sewn interlining are mentioned in the below:
1.
2.

It is used to make flame retardant garments or apparel.

Here, no elaborate m/c is needed.

3.
It has probability of using in steel or re-rolling or highly heated industry.
4.
It is easy and simple technique.
Disadvantages of non fusible interlining or sewn interlining:
Different disadvantages of non fusible interlining or sewn interlining are1.
It is not available in market, needed to prepare.
2.
It is not suitable for large apparel production.
3.
Quality is not good enough here.
4.
It has needed more time.
5.
Higher work load and labor cost here.
2. Fusible Interlining:
Fusible interlining is that which could be fixed with the apparel components by applying heat
and pressure for certain period of time. Fusing temperature is needed here 165-170C and time
needed 2-20sec.

Fusible interlining

Advantage of fusible interlining:

Various advantages of fusible interlining have mentioned in the following:
1.

It is available in local market.

2.
It is cheap than others.
3.
It has needed less fusing time.
4.
Production is higher than sewn interlining.
5.
Labor cost is low here.
6.
Not needed skilled operator here.
Disadvantages of fusible interlining:
Several disadvantages of fusible interlining have pointed out in the following:
1.
2.

During attaching the fusible interlining special care is needed.

High temperature is required here.

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Properties of Fusible Interlining

By Mayedul Islam | February 2, 2016
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Fusible Interlining | Properties of Fusible Interlining
Mayedul Islam
Merchandiser at Fashion Xpress Buying House.
Badda, Dhaka, Bangladesh.
Email: mayedul.islam66@gmail.com

Introduction:
There are two types of interlining used in readymade garments sector. Fusible interlining is
one of those. It has great importance during sewing the garments in apparel manufacturing
industry. Fusible interning follows some properties which has mentioned in this article.

Fusible Interlining

Fusible Interlining:
The interlining which can be fixed with the garments components by applying heat and
pressure for certain period of time is called fusible interlining. During fusing, recommended
temperature needed 165-170C where fusing time needed 2-20sec and pressure depends on
fusing technique.
Characteristics of Fusible Interlining:
Fusible interlining contains the below properties:
1.
2.
3.
4.

5.

Here, the fusing is done by using perfect temperature so that there is no hampering
of fabric color.
The maximum temperature of fusing should not be more than 175
The minimum temperature of this interlining should not be less than 110
The minimum temperature should be applied during fusing otherwise it will create
problem in the bonding between garments fabric and interlining during washing or end
using of garments.
The bond of fusible interlining should not be opened or hampered due to washing or
dry cleaning.

6.

After completing this type of interlining it should contain the stiffness and drape
properties ofgarments.
7.
The color of fusible interlining must be white or transparent, but it can be different in color
according to the fusing requirements.
8.
This type of interlining should be done as that the color of garment cannot be changed
due to the color of interlining.
9.
The interlining should not be toxic to the human body during the end use of garments.

Speech

from

the

writer:

If you read this article with full concentration then you can easily answer the below questions in
the interview:
1.
What do you understand by fusible interlining?
2.
Point out various features of fusible interlining.
3.
Mention some prominence of fusible interlining.

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Fusing Process Applied in Apparel Industry

By Mayedul Islam | June 8, 2016
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Fusing Technology in Garment Industry

Fusing Process in Garments:

Fusing process is one kinds of alternative method of fabric joining which is vastly used to
attach theinterlining. At present, apparel manufacturing cannot be imagined without fusing
process. As its importance, this article has presented a details discussion on fusing process with
its classification anddefects.

Fusing process applied in garments

Types of Fusing in Garments:

There are three types of fusing process used in garments which are mentioned in the below:
1.
Reverse fusing,
2.
Sandwich fusing,
3.
Double fusing.

All the above processes have explained in the following:

1. Reverse fusing:
In this process, the fabric of interlining is spread on the fusing bed and the part consists of
resin is directed upward. Then the fabric of garments is spread on the resonated part of fabric
and fusing is done there. This is called reverse fusing. In this process, the area of interlining is
comparatively small than the fabric of apparel, as a result proper spreading is difficult here.
2. Sandwich fusing:
Generally, fusing is done by continuous fusing machine where the heat is applied from both
sides offabric. In this process, two pairs of fabrics are fused i.e. the two interlinings are placed
between or in the middle of two fabrics of apparel. If the heat and pressure are not applied

properly then four layers may be joined due to the effect of striking back during fusing. By using
this process, the production can be increased but needs more time. It may have unsatisfactory
in fused garments.
3. Double fusing:
In this process, two types of interlining are joined with the garment fabrics in a step during
fusing. There is needed to control the temperature during fusing and it must be able to set the
interlinings parts and garment parts properly. This type of fusing is generally done in collar and
the front part of jacket.
Defects of Fusing Process:
There are mainly two types of faults found during fusing. Those are explained in the below:
1. Striking back:
When two parts of fabrics are joined by pressure and heat during fusing, it must have the
control to the temperature and pressure. Sometimes the pressure and heat are not controlled
properly during fusing so that the resin is passed through the lower part of fabric. It is called
striking back.
2. Striking through:
When two parts of fabrics are joined by pressure and heat during fusing, it must have the control
to the temperature and pressure. Sometimes the pressure and heat are not controlled properly
during fusing so that the resin is passed through the upper part of fabric. It is called striking
through.
-Written by

S M Hossen Uzzal
Planning Executive at Modele De Capital Ind. Ltd.
Narayanganj, Dhaka, Bangladesh.
Email: uhossen@gmail.com

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11 Properties of Sewing Thread

By Mayedul Islam | February 8, 2016

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11 Properties of Sewing Thread

Mayedul Islam
Merchandiser at Fashion Xpress Buying House.
Badda, Dhaka, Bangladesh.
Email: mayedul.islam66@gmail.com

Introduction:
Sewing thread is an important trimming which are vastly used in readymade garments sector.
Sewing thread contains some properties. In the past I have presented here the relation
between sewing thread, needle and material but today I have explained here different
properties of sewing thread.

Sewing Thread

Characteristics of Sewing Thread:

There are different key properties of sewing thread which are mentioned in the following:
1.
Tensile strength,
2.
Tenacity,
3.
Loop strength,
4.
Loop strength ratio,
5.
Minimum loop strength,
6.
Elongation at break,

7.
8.
9.
10.
11.

Stress strain curve,

Elasticity,
Shrinkage,
Abrasion resistance,
Color fastness.

All the above properties have explained in the below:

1. Tensile strength:
The minimum load which is needed to break the sewing thread is termed as tensile strength of
thatthread. It is expressed by gm, kg or lbs which may vary according to the temperature and
humidity. It is used to determine the difference of tensile strength of sewing threads of same size
or ticket number.
2. Tenacity:
The ratio of tensile strength and thickness or count of sewing thread is known as tenacity.
Strength andquality of various count thread are verifies by tenacity. Tenacity is denoted by gm
per tex or gm per denier.
3. Loop strength:
Thread has minimum strength in its loop position and the minimum load needed to break the
loop is termed as loop strength. It is deeply related with stitch strength of a thread.
4. Loop strength ratio:
The ratio of sewing thread tenacity and loop strength of that thread is termed as loop strength
ratio. It should be noted here that, the maximum value of loop strength ratio may be 2. Loop
strength ratio is used to find out the efficiency of sewing thread in the stitch.
5. Minimum loop strength:
The loop strength of weaker loop is termed as minimum loop strength. It is used to determine
the performance of sewing thread in the stitch.
6. Elongation at break:
Elongation at break is the extension of sewing thread at breaking point. It is expressed in
percentage. It is too much important for extensibility of seam.
7. Stress strain curve:
Stress strain curve is the drawing curve of tenacity which opposes the elongation of sewing
thread. It has great importance to compare the values of two threads.
8. Elasticity:
Elasticity is the property by means of which the sewing thread returns back to its original
position when deforming force is released. It should be noted here that when sewing thread
back to its original position after extension is calked plastic. But if dont back to its original
position is called plastic. Most of the sewing threads are lies in the middle position of the elastic
and plastic.

9. Shrinkage:
The dimensional change of sewing thread after washing with water or heat is called
shrinkage.Shrinkage is expressed as percentage. Due to the shrinkage of
threads, seam pucker is occurred.
10. Abrasion resistance:
Abrasion resistance is the frictional resistance of one sewing thread to another. It has great
importance to determine the sewing performance of thread which is measured by using
special machine and method.
11. Color fastness:
Color fastness is very important factor for the sewing thread. The color durability of sewing
thread against sunlight and wash must be as like as garments.

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