Flow Chart of Proto Sample Development in Apparel Industry

Flow Chart of Proto Sample Development in Apparel

Industry

Muhammad Rahat
Dept. of Knitwear Manufacturing Technology
BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology (BUFT)
Email: smrahatsaif@gmail.com

Proto sample:
Proto sample is the first sample in production development stage in apparel industry. It
is prepared according to the buyers specification. This type of sample is designed by
the designers. Fit and fabric detailing is not considered in this sample.

Fig: Proto Sample Development

Process Flow Chart of Proto Sample Development in

Garment Industry

Program Received from Buyer

Personal Study on Tech pack

Meeting with Internal Team

Advice for pattern making

Sourcing Raw materials

After Receiving Raw Materials Send to Sample Section

Cutting

Printing/Artwork

Sewing

Washing (If Needed)

Finishing and QC

Final Review

Tagging

Packing/Invoice

Send to Buyer
All of the above parameters are discussed shortly:

Program Received from Buyer:

First step of proto sample development is program receive from buyer. Buyer gives us a
tech pack to develop a proto sample. We collect all the details from buyer regarding
development program.
Personal Stud y on Tech Pack
After receiving program we have to study on it. Because of to check whether we are
capable to develop a proto sample, to check how much requirement of buyer and how
much we have.
Meeting with Internal Team
After case study on tech pack then arrange a meeting with internal team who involved in
this development program. In this meeting to discussed how much important this
program and what is the dead line also discussed we are capable or not for this
program.
Advice for pattern Making
After complete a meeting now advice a team to make a pattern for program.
Sourcing Raw materials
According to buyer requirement source raw materials from the supplier. For sourcing we
have to send mail to supplier with attaching all the details. Such as brand name, style
no, color, fabrication details, fabric description etc.
After Receiving Raw Materials Send to Sample Section
After receiving raw materials send to sample section for make a proto sample. It is
responsibility of merchandiser to keep communication with sample section. So that, the
sample make in time and better quality.
Cutting
Now fabric send to cutting section for cut the fabric according to pattern. Cutting is one
of the major process in proto sample development program.
Printing/Artwork
If buyer has any requirement of printing or artwork then its place on right place. This
process is called artwork placement.
Sewing
All the parts of a garment are joined here to make a complete garment. Sewing process
is done by manually.
Washing (If Needed)
If buyer wants any washing in sample we have to apply it.
Finishing and QC
After washing we will get a complete garment which is treated with steam ironing & also
several finishing processes are done for example extra loose thread cutting etc.

Tagging
Tagging is very important in proto sample development program because if we do not
keep tagging against each style it is possible to mix with other style.
Packing/Invoice
According to buyer requirement packing all the garments.
Send to Buyer
After complete all the process now send the sample to buyer and waiting for approval.

3Share
You might also like

Read more: http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2016/04/flow-chart-of-proto-sample-development.html#ixzz4RcYSLIQI

Characteristics of Silk Fabrics | Properties of Silk Fabrics

Silk:
Silk is one of the popular fabrics for apparel because of its unique properties. Silk is
most luxurious fabric, the most comfortable fabric, the most absorbent of fabrics (equal
to wool), the best fabric for drape, the best fabric for color, capable of the greatest
lustre, having the finest "hand" etc. These are some of the factors which make the fabric
more popular. The fabric is cool in summer and warm in winter.

Silk fabric

Characteristics of Silk Fabrics

Properties of silk fabrics are discussed below:

Composition: The silk fibre is chiefly composed of 80% of fibroin, which is

protein in nature and 20% of sericin, which is otherwise called as silk gum.

Strength: Silk as a fibre, has good tensile strength, which allows it to withstand
great pulling pressure. Silk is the strongest natural fibre and has moderate
abrasion resistance. The strength of the thrown yarns is mainly due to the
continuous length of the fibre. Spun silk yarn though strong is weaker than
thrown silk filament yarns.

Elasticity: Silk fibre is an elastic fibre and may be stretched from 1/7 to 1/5 of its
original length before breaking. It tends to return to its original size but gradually
loses little of its elasticity. This would mean that the fabric would be less sagging
and less binding resulting in the wearers comfort.

Resilience: Silk fabrics retain their shape and have moderate resistance to
wrinkling. Fabrics that are made from short staple spun silk have less
resilience.

Drapability: Silk has a liability and suppleness that, aided by its elasticity and
resilience, gives it excellent drapability.

Heat Conductivity: Silk is a protein fibre and is a non-conductor of heat similar

to that of wool. This makes silk suitable for winter apparel.

Absorbency: Silk fabrics being protein in nature have good absorbency. The
absorptive capacity of the silk fabric makes comfortable apparel even for warmer
atmosphere. Fabrics made from silk are comfortable in the summer and warm in
the winter. Silk fibre can generally absorb about 11 percent of its weight in
moisture, but the range varies from 10 percent to as much as 30 percent. This
property is also a major factor in silks ability to be printed and dyed easily.

Cleanliness and Washability: Silk fabric does not attract dirt because of its
smooth surface. The dirt, which gathers can be easily removed by washing or dry
cleaning. It is often recommended for the silk garments to be dry-cleaned. Silk
fabrics should always be washed with a mild soap and strong agitation in
washing machine should be avoided. Silk water spot easily, but subsequent
washing or dry cleaning will restore the appearance of the fabric.

Reaction to Bleaches: Silk, like wool, is deteriorated with chlorine bleaches like
sodium hypochlorite. However, mild bleach of hydrogen peroxide or sodium per
borate may be used for silk.

Shrinkage: Silk fabrics are subjected only to normal shrinkage which can be
restored by ironing. Crepe effect fabrics shrink considerably in washing, but
careful ironing with a moderately hot iron will restore the fabric to its original size.

Effect of Heat: Silk is sensitive to heat and begins to decompose at 330 F (165
C). The silk fabrics thus have to be ironed when damp.

Effect of Light: Silk fabric weakens on exposure to sun light. Raw silks are more
resistant to light than degummed silk.

Resistance to Mildew: Silks will not mildew unless left for sometime in a damp
state or under the extreme conditions of tropical dampness.

Resistance to Insects: Silk may be attacked by the larvae or clothe moths or

carpet beetles.

Reaction to Alkalis: Silk is not as sensitive as wool to alkalis, but it can be

damaged if the concentration and the temperature are high. A mild soap or
detergent in lukewarm water is thus advisable.

Reaction to Acids: Concentrated mineral acids will dissolve silk faster than
wool. Organic acids do not harm silk.

Affinity for Dyes: Silk has good absorbency and thus has good affinity for dyes.
Dyed silk is colourfast under most conditions, but its resistance to light is
unsatisfactory.

Resistance to Perspiration: Perspiration and sunlight weakens and yellows silk

fabrics. The silk itself deteriorates and the colour is affected causing staining.
Garments worn next to the skin should be washed or other wise cleaned after
each wearing.

Read more: http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2011/08/characteristics-of-silk-fabrics_

Types of Fabric Mostly Used for Garments

Types of Fabric Mostly Used for Garments

Md. Reazul Islam
B. Sc in Textile Engineering
Daffodil International University
Dhaka,Bangladesh.
Email: reaz.suzon@gmail.com

Cotton voile:
Voile is a light weight, semi-sheer fabric with a great drape. It is a soft, fabric, usually
made of 100% cotton or cotton blends including linen or polyester. The term comes from
French, and means veil. Because of its light weight, the fabric is mostly used in soft
furnishing. In hot countries, voile is used as window treatments and mosquito nets.
When used as curtain material, voile is similar to net curtains.

Cotton voile
Voiles are available in a range of patterns and colours (unlike net curtains, which are
generally white or off-white). Because of their semitransparent quality, voile curtains are
made using specially manufactured heading tape that is less easily noticeable through
the fabric. Voile fabric is also used in dress-making, either in multiple layers or laid over
a second material. Voile is very similar to chiffon, which is also used in dress-making.

Cotton lawn:
Lawn is very similar to cotton voile but is slightly crisper. Lawn cloth or lawn is a plain
weave textile, originally of linen but now chiefly cotton. Lawn is designed using fine, high
count yarns, which results in a silky, untextured feel. The fabric is made using either
combed or carded yarns. When lawn is made using combed yarns, with a soft feel and
slight luster, it is known as nainsook. The term lawn is also used in the textile industry
to refer to a type of starched crisp finish given to a cloth product. The finish can be
applied to a variety of fine fabrics, prints or plain.

Cotton lawn

Rayon challis:
Rayon challis is a smooth, lightweight fabric. It drapes well and is slightly heavier than
other lightweight fabrics, like cotton voile and cotton lawn.

Rayon challis

Chambray:
Chambray is another smooth, lightweight fabric. It doesnt drape as well as rayon
challis, cotton voile or cotton lawn. Cambric or batiste, one of the finest and most dense
kinds of cloth, is a lightweight plain-weave cloth, originally from the French commune of
Cambrai, woven in greige, then bleached, piece-dyed and often glazed or calendered.
Initially it was made of linen; later, the term came to be applied to cotton fabrics as well.
Cambric is used for linens, shirtings, handkerchieves and as fabric for lace and
needlework.

Chambray
Denim:
Denim is a heavy-weight fabric with very little drape or stretch. Denim is a sturdy cotton
warp-faced twill textile in which the weft passes under two or more warp threads. This
twill weaving produces the familiar diagonal ribbing of the denim that distinguishes it
from cotton duck.

Denim
It is a characteristic of most indigo denim that only the warp threads are dyed, whereas
the weft threads remain plain white. As a result of the warp-faced twill weaving, one side

of the textile then shows the blue warp threads and the other side shows the white weft
threads. This is why blue jeans are white on the inside. The indigo dyeing process, in
which the core of the warp threads remains white, creates denim's fading
characteristics,
which
are
unique
compared
to
every
other
textile.

Double gauze:
Double gauze is a unique fabric in that it is literally two layers of gauze woven together.
The double layer of fabric eradicates the main problem of sewing clothing from gauze
(the sheerness), while retaining the good qualities (extremely light and breathable).

Double gauze

Knit:
In the knit fabric category, there are several types of knit, varying from lightweight to
medium weight. Knit fabric is your go-to for any garment that needs to have a great deal
of stretch. Patterns are designed for either woven fabric or knit fabric, and patterns
sized for knit fabric will often specify the degree of stretch needed in the fabric.

Knit fabric

Silk:
Silk is a lightweight, delicate fabric that drapes well. It has a slightly shimmery
appearance. Silk can be slippery and more difficult to work with. It also makes a great
lining fabric.

Silk dress

Satin:
Satin can vary from lightweight to heavyweight, depending on the type of satin. Like silk,
it has a glossy appearance. Satin is a weave that typically has a glossy surface and a
dull back. The satin weave is characterized by four or more cool fill or weft yarns floating
over a warp yarn or vice versa, four warp yarns floating over a single weft yarn. Floats
are missed interfacings, where the warp yarn lies on top of the weft in a warp-faced
satin and where the weft yarn lies on top of the warp yarns in weft-faced satins. These
floats explain the even sheen, as unlike in other weaves, the light reflecting is not
scattered as much by the fibers, which have fewer tucks. Satin is usually a warp-faced
weaving technique in which warp yarns are "floated" over weft yarns, although there are
also weft-faced satins. If a fabric is formed with a satin weave using filament fibers such
as silk, nylon, or polyester, the corresponding fabric is termed a satin, although some
definitions insist that the fabric be made from silk. If the yarns used are short-staple
yarns such as cotton, the fabric formed is considered a sateen.

Satin

Linen:
Linen is a medium-weight fabric with little elasticity (hence the wrinkles). But it conducts
heat very well, which is why its a popular choice for warm-weather anything.
Linen is a textile made from the fibers of the flax plant, Linum usitatissimum. Linen is
laborious to manufacture, but the fiber is very absorbent and garments made of linen
are valued for their exceptional coolness and freshness in hot weather.

Linen shoe
Many products are made of linen: aprons, bags, towels (swimming, bath, beach, body
and wash towels), napkins, bed linens, tablecloths, runners, chair covers, and men's
and
women's
wear.
The word linen is of West Germanic origin and cognate to the Latin name for the flax
plant, linum, and the earlier Greek. This word history has given rise to a number of other
terms in English, most notably line, from the use of a linen (flax) thread to determine a
straight
line.
Textiles in a linen weave texture, even when made of cotton, hemp and other non-flax
fibers, are also loosely referred to as "linen". Such fabrics generally also have their own
specific names, for example fine cotton yarn in a linen-style weave is called
Madapolam.
The collective term "linens" is still often used generically to describe a class of woven or
knitted bed, bath, table and kitchen textiles traditionally made of linen. In the past,
"linens" also referred to lightweight undergarments such as shirts, chemises, waist
shirts, lingerie (a word also cognate with linen), and detachable shirt collars and cuffs,
all of which were historically made almost exclusively out of linen. The inner layer of fine
composite cloth garments (as for example jackets) was traditionally made of linen,
hence
the
word
lining.

Wool:
There are over 200 different types of wool, coming from 40 different breeds of sheep, so
the weight will vary depending on the type of wool. Wool is extremely hard-wearing and
versatile. Its also very warm and a good choice for colder weather garments.

Wool

Flannel:
Flannel is a soft, lightweight fabric. It works well for colder-temperature shirts, pants and
jackets. Flannel is a soft woven fabric, of various fineness. Flannel was originally made
from carded wool or worsted yarn, but is now often made from either wool, cotton, or
synthetic fiber. A textile made from Scots pine fiber is called vegetable flannel. Flannel
may be brushed to create extra softness or remain unbrushed. Brushing is a
mechanical process wherein a fine metal brush rubs the fabric to raise fine fibers from
the loosely spun yarns. Typically, flannel has either a single- or double-sided nap.
Double-napped flannel refers to a fabric that has been brushed on both sides. If the
flannel is not napped, it gains its softness through the loosely spun yarn in its woven

form. Flannel is commonly used to make tartan clothing, blankets, bed sheets, and
sleepwear."Flannel shirt" is often mistakenly used to mean any shirt with a plaid or
tartan pattern, rather than a shirt constructed of flannel fabric.

Flannel
10Share
You might also like

Read more: http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2015/05/types-of-fabric-mostly-used-for-garments.html#ixzz4RcZUKuPG5368.html#ixzz4RcYtENmx

Yarn Numbering System (Yarn Count) | Direct Count System | Indirect Count
System

Yarn

Count:

Count is a numerical value, which express the coarseness or fineness (diameter) of the
yarn and also indicate the relationship between length and weight(the mass per unit
length or the length per unit mass)of that yarn. Therefore, the concept of yarn
count has been introduced which specifies a certain ratio of length to weight.
The fineness of the yarn is usually expressed in terms of its linear density or count.
There are a number of systems and units for expressing yarn fineness. But they are

classified

as

follows

Types of Yarn Count:

1.

Direct Count System

2.

Indirect Count System

1.

Direct

Count

System:

The weight of a fixed length of yarn is determined. The weight per unit length is the yarn
count! The common features of aII direct count systems are the length of yarn is fixed
and
the
weight
of
yarn
varies
according
to
its
fineness.
The
N=

following

formula

is

used

to

(Wl)

calculate

the

yarn

count:
L

Where,
N
=Yarn
count
or
numbering
system
W =Weight of the sample at the official regain in the unit of the system
L=Length
of
the
sample
l=Unit of length of the sample

In brief, definition of the above Systems is as follows

1.

Tex system ..........................NO. of grams per 1000 meters

2.

Denier .................................No. of Grams per 9000 meters

3.

Deci Tex ..............................No. of grams per 10,000 metres

4.

Millitex ................................No. of milligrams per 1000 metres

5.

Kilotex............................... .No. of kilograms per 1000 metres.

6.

Jute count........................No. of lb per 14,400 yds

The Tex of a yarn indicates the weight in grammes of 1000 metres yarn. So that 40Tex
means
1000
meters
of
yarn
weigh
40gm.
From above discussion it is concluded that, higher the yarn number(count) coarser the
yarn
and
lower
the
number
finer
the
yarn.

2.

Indirect

Count

System:

The length of a fixed weight of yarn is measured. The length per unit weight is the yarn
count. The common features of all indirect count systems are the weight of yarn is fixed
and
the
Length
of
yarn
varies
according
to
its
fineness.
The
N

following

formula
=

is

used
to
(Lw)

calculate

they

are

count:
Wl

Where,
N
=Yarn
count
or
numbering
system
W =Weight of the sample at the official regain in the unit of the system
L=Length
of
the
sample
l=Unit
of
length
of
the
sample
w = Unit of weight of the sample.

1.

Ne: No

2.

Nm: No

of
of

840
one

yards

yarn

weighing

kilometer

yarn

weighing

in
in

One
One

pound
Kilogram

The Ne indicate show many hanks of 840 yards length weigh one English pound. So
that 32 Ne Means 32 hanks of 840yards i.e.32x840 yards length weigh one pound.
For the determination of the count of yarn, it is necessary to determine the weight of a
known length of the yarn. For taking out known lengths of yarns, a wrap-reel is used.
The length of yarn reeled off depends upon the count system used. One of the most
important requirements for a spinner is to maintain the average count and count
variation
within
control.

Yarn

Count

Variation:

The term count variation is generally used to express variation in the weight of a lea and
this is expressed as C.V.%. The number of samples and the length being considered for
count checking affects this. While assessing count variation, it is very important to test
adequate number of leas. After reeling the appropriate length of yarn, the yarn is
conditioned in the standard atmosphere for testing before it's weight is determined.
Read more: http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/05/yarn-numbering-system-yarn-count-direct.html#ixzz4RcaelilZ