Parts and Functions of Sewing Machine Feed

Mechanism
Different Parts and Functions of Sewing Machine Feed Mechanism
Sewing Machine Feed Mechanism:
Sewing machine feed mechanism is that which is used for moving the fabrics being stitched
from onestitch position to the next. It is one of the most important parts of the sewing
machine.
Sewing machine feed mechanism

Functions of Sewing Machine Feed Mechanism:

The following are the function of a sewing machine, which is totally depends on the feed
mechanism.
1.
Proper seam appearance,
2.
Proper stitching as required,
3.
Controlling of SPI ( Stitch per inch),
4.
Moving forward and backward of sewn fabric,
5.
Sometimes crease effect is formed according to the design.
Different Parts of Sewing Machine Feed Mechanism:
There are so many types of feed mechanisms are available according to the desired function
and machine. But, common three parts are must whatever the type of feed mechanism is.
The following are the three parts of a sewing machine feed mechanism, which are pointed out
in the below:
1.
Throat plate or needle plate or feed plate,
2.
Feed dog,
3.
Pressure foot.

All the above parts of a sewing machine feed mechanism have explained in
the following:

1. Throat plate or needle plate or feed plate:

The part of the bed of the sewing machine which has opening for the needle and for feed dog
penetrations and which provides localized support to the material. Here, the opening varies in
size and shape which is depending on the sewing requirements. This is made of steel and its
surface is very smooth. Due to the smooth surface fabrics can be feed easily. It is also called
needle plate or feed plate.
It has one or more slots through which feed dog can move forward and backward. It has a hole
through which needle can move up and down with the thread. Size of this hole should not
exceed more than 30% of needle size.

2. Feed dog:
A toothed element which acts on the surface of material is being sewn to move it in a controlled
way during stitching. The actions in normally on the lower surface of the material but
mechanisms which acts on the upper surfaces are also in use. For most of the time, the
operative motion is forwards but in specific cases the motion is reversed. It is the most important
part of the feed mechanism. The main function of this part is to move sewn fabric after making
individual stitch as predetermined length.
To prevent the slippage of fabric, the upper parts of the feed do are made toothed. The
movement of the feed dog is lateral. Feed dog moves backward and comes upward through the
slot of the throat plate which contacting with lower surface of the fabric and moves the fabric
forward a step and then descends from the fabric and moves down again below the throat plate.
In this way, its lateral movement is completed.
3. Pressure foot:
This is an element which is used to constrain the movement of the material during stitch
formation by applying to it an adjustable downward pressure. Pressure foot works in
conjunctions with the throat plate and feed dog to achieve controlled movement of the material
and correct stitch formation.
Different designs of pressure foot are in use. The most common have a solid or hinged surface
which controls the material. It is used to give an adjustable downward pressure on the fabric
with spring pressure. So that fabric cannot move up and down with needle. Lower surface of the
pressure foot is very smooth to prevent less friction between fabric and pressure foot.
-Witten by

S M Hossen Uzzal
Planning Executive at Modele De Capital Ind. Ltd.
Narayanganj, Dhaka, Bangladesh.
Email: uhossen@gmail.com

9 Key Factors of Seam Puckering

9 Key Factors of Seam Puckering
Mayedul Islam
Merchandiser at Fashion Xpress Buying House.
Badda, Dhaka, Bangladesh.
Email: mayedul.islam66@gmail.com

Introduction:

Seam puckering is a most common problem in garments sewing department. These kinds of
problems affects on the total quality of garments during garments manufacturing. There are
some factors which help to produce seam puckering problems in the garments. Those factors
have discussed in this article.
Factors Affecting on Seam Puckering:
There are different key factors which are directly affected on seam puckering, those are
mentioned in the below:
1.
Excessive sewing thread tension,
2.
Stretch applied on the fabric,
3.
Shrinkage of sewing thread and fabric,
4.
Feeding mechanism,
5.
Construction of fabric,
6.
Types of fabric,
7.
Types of sewing thread,
8.
Sewing machine types,
9.
Sewing thread behavior.
All the above factors have discussed in the following:
1. Excessive sewing thread tension:
Sewing thread tension has a great impact for producing seam puckering problem in the
garments. If sewing thread tension is higher then probability of producing puckering problem in
the garments will be higher.
2. Stretch applied on the fabric:
Sometimes extra stretch applied in the fabric during sewing which can produce seam puckering
problem in the garments. So, during sewing it should be followed carefully.
3. Shrinkage of sewing thread and fabric:
Shrinkage of both sewing thread and fabric has direct impact for producing seam puckering
problem in the garments. So, to get right quality garments, these key points should be followed
perfectly.
4. Feeding mechanism:
Feeding mechanism variation can help to produce seam puckering problem in the garments. So,
during sewing it should be maintained. Otherwise garments may fail to pass the required quality
level
5. Construction of fabric:
Fabric construction has a direct impact on seam puckering. Heavy weighted woven fabrics have
most probability for producing puckering problem than light weighted woven fabric.

6. Types of fabric:
Seam puckering problem can be produced in both woven and knitted fabric.
7. Types of sewing thread:
Sewing thread types has a great impact for producing seam puckering problem in the garments.
8. Sewing machine types:
Seam puckering problem can be produced in the garments depending on the types of sewing
machine used in the garments.
9. Sewing thread behavior:
Sewing thread behavior is not a minor task for producing seam puckering problem in the
garments. Sometimes it helps to produce puckering problem in the garments.

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Important Terms Related to Garment Buying House

Important Terms Related to Garment Buying House
Mayedul Islam
Merchandiser at Fashion Xpress Buying House.
Badda, Dhaka, Bangladesh.
Email: mayedul07@gmail.com

Buying House:
Garment buying house is the working place of apparel merchandisers. Basically garment
buying house tries to communicate with buyers of other countries who want to buy garment
products. RMG sector of Bangladesh can produce higher quality product with lower price
compared to the others countries. As a result foreign buyers are highly interested to place their
order here. But they have no enough idea oforder placement and execution here; as a result
they come through the buying house. At present, buying house plays an important role
in garments manufacturing sector. Some important terms which are normally used in garment
buying house are discussed in this article.
Garment Buying House

Important terms related to Buying House:

Some garment buying house related terms are mentioned in the following:
1.
Importers,
2.
Satellite office,
3.
Customer or End buyer,
4.
Third party buyer or trading house,
5.
Consumer,
6.
Buyer,
7.
Whole Seller,
8.
Retailer,
9.
Manufacturer,
10. Seller,
11. Exporter,
12. Trader,
13. Woven garments industry,
14. Knit garments industry,
15. Full fashion garments industry.
Those points are explained in the below:
1.
Importers:
Importers are those who buy or import the product from foreign or overseas country in large
quantities are called importers.
2.
Satellite
office:
Satellite office is the country office of the actual buyer. Importers set-up their own office in
respective country to lace order & execute directly.
3.
Customer
or
End
buyer:
Importer is known as customer or end buyer. Sometimes they place order directly to the foreign
factory or by their satellite office or by the trading house. Customer or end buyer may be whole
seller or retailer.
4.
Third
party
buyer
or
Trading
house:
Third party buyer or trading house is not the actual buyer. They just act as a buyer to the factory
on behalf of the importer/end buyer/customer. They place order and execute that by maintaining
actual buyers instruction and get their commission from the importer. They are also known as
buying agent.
5.
Consumer:
Consumers are those who buy the ultimate product are called customers. Customers of a
product may be the consumer of this product or not.
6.
Buyer:
Buyers are those who buy the product from others in large quantities are called buyers.
7.
Whole
Seller:
Whole Sellers are those who sell the product to the retailer are called whole sellers.

8.
Retailer:
Retailers are those who sell the product directly to the customer are called retailers.
9.
Manufacturer:
Manufacturers are those who manufacturer the product are called manufacturer.
10.
Seller:
Sellers are those who sell the product to the others are called seller.
11.
Exporter:
Exporters are those who sell or export the product to the buyer of foreign country are called
exporter.
12.
Trader:
Traders are those who establish liaison between buyer and manufacturer are called trader.
13.
Woven
garments
industry:
The industry which is manufactured woven garments such as- Shirt, Trouser, Pant, Jacket etc.
14.
Knit
garments
industry:
The industry which is manufactured knitted garments such as- T-shirt, Polo-shirt, Tank top etc.
15.
Full
fashion
garments
industry:
The industry which is manufactured knitted garments by using yarn as main materials instead of
fabric is called it. Here, the main products are Sweater, Pullover and Cardigan etc.