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By Noorilhuda
The snow over thy peaks has endowed thee with the turban of honour
The turban which mocks at the cap of the world illuminating sun
Antiquity is only a moment of thine age gone by
Dark clouds are encamped in thine valleys.
O Himalayas poem by Allama Iqbal (Bang-i-Dara)
Those dark clouds enveloped a far graver reality midnight Saturday, 22nd June when the western
face of Nanga Parbat, a base camp at 4,000 metres (13,125 feet), at Kutgali in Diamer Valley,
was colored with bullets. Reports suggested that sixteen gunmen dressed in Gilgit Scouts
fatigues ordered mountaineers out of the tents, blindfolded them, told them to kneel and then
showered their heads with bullets. Resulting death toll stood at 11. Most had families with young
children:
China: 2
Rao Jianfeng
Yang Chunfeng
Lithuania: 1
Ernestas Marksaitis
Nepal: 1
Sona Sherpa, 35
Slovakia: 2
Anton Dobes
Peter Sperka
Ukraine: 3
Igor Svergun, 47
US-China citizen: 1
Honglu Chen
Dead Pakistani: 1
Ali Hussain, 28, porter and cook at base camp from Hushe Valley, Skardu, leaves behind
a young wife, 2 daughters- one of whom is of eight months- and a son. Eldest in family of
two brothers and 4 sisters, as reported by BBC.
Killer Mountain lived up to its name.
Four Sunni Pakistani staff were spared by the assailants (BBC, 25th June). Injured included one
Chinese climber, and a Pakistani guide who was recovered from a hostage-like situation from the
assailants; There were even unconfirmed reports that 2 climbers managed to escape (a Latvian;
and a Chinese Jhang Jingchuan who hid at a ravine to escape firing).
Right after the massacre, Jundullah group claimed responsibility for the attack to Reuters,
followed closely by TTP to AFP. The modus operandi of the assailants lining up victims before
shooting them dead - is something the Shia community of Gilgit-Baltistan have become
accustomed to in the last few years with bus attacks in Lolosar, Kohistan and Chilas. There is
also the angle of terrorists sending out a message to supporters of War against Terror and U.S.
allies in Afghanistan. Ukraine, Lithuania and Slovakia are members of ISAF force. Slovakia has
238 peacekeeping members in Afghanistan; Lithuania has 240 and Ukraine has 26 personnel
working as military doctors, advisers, engineers and specialists in logistics and avionics. Ukraine
also is the only partner nation that is taking part in all 4 of the NATO-led operations. Coupled
with the fact that Pakistan is a major non-NATO ally of the U.S. and that China is a non-NATO/
ISAF contributor in Afghanistan, providing mine clearing and police training to Afghan Security
Force but has not sent troops fearing its casualty toll will anger citizens back home (who abide
by One Child Policy). There were even whispers of the assailants being from across the border
or done by locals under the tutelage of Pak enemies. After all, China and Pakistan just inked a
trade route agreement through Gilgit-Baltistan during the visit of Chinese PM, and Nawaz
Sharifs first foreign visit is scheduled to be to China, a country helping out Pakistan with
$1billion for our budget 2013-14 and heavily invested in Gwadar and energy projects around
Pakistan.
Putting all theories to rest, the sixteen gunmen have now been identified by Giglit-Baltistan
police chief Usman Zakaria as belonging to Diamer (10), Kohistan (3), and Mansehra (3). They
are all locals, said IG Usman Zakaria at a hurriedly called press conference in Gilgit. An
announcement that raises more questions and sets an already beleaguered nation up for further
embarrassment: How could the locals do it to themselves?
After all, Tourism is the backbone of Gilgit-Baltistan economy. Every person, every sector is
involved in it in one way or another, whether transport, embroidery, wood, porters, the
communities of mountain area. 70-80% terrain is mountainous. City-area is small, says a highranking G-B Tourism official, on the condition of anonymity since he was not authorized to
speak to the press. Money is made by hotels, guides, cooks, food providers (whether it is an egg
or meat or fresh vegetable). The official was quick to reassure: Even now, only one route to
Nanga Parbat has been closed. The other two are open as are all districts in G-B.
Himalayan Mountains is a range (divided into Greater Himaylayas, Lesser Himalayas, Outer
Himalayas), parts of which are in Pakistan, India, Nepal, Bhutan, Afghanistan, China, even
Myanmar. Famous peaks include:
recent years, especially after 9/11 when mountaineering tourism started declining in Pakistan.
Matters went bad after 2007. Lal Masjid, counter-terrorism effort, Swat Valley Operation,
Marriott Hotel bombing all are responsible for declining tourism, says Tayyab Ali, Ali, publicity
manager at Pakistan Tourism Development Corporation, from his office in F-6, Islamabad. Swat
is near Kaghan, Hunza, Gilgit-Baltistan and these are all mountainous areas. The G-B Tourism
official blames the bus attacks on Shias for low tourist turnout. In 2011 we had 85,000 domestic
tourists coming into G-B, by 2012 the number had reduced to 30,000, he says.
In recent years, the World Economic Forums Travel and Tourism Competitiveness Report.
placed Pakistan at 103 of 124 countries. This June, Indian Tourism Minister announced 777
days of the Indian Himalayas to promote tourists, a campaign which will kick-off on 27th Sept.
World Tourism Day.
We are the only part of tourist economy that brings foreign currency (dollar) into Pakistan. Haj
tour operators and Haj-travelers send money abroad, says Asghar Ali Porik, the middle-aged
owner and managing director of Jasmine Tour Company. Ernestas Marksaitis, the Lithuanian
national killed in Nanga Parbat was on his first expedition to Pakistan, in a group of 31 whose
tour itinerary was being handled by Jasmine Tour Company. The International Expedition landed
on 3-7th June and had plans to stay in Pakistan till 30th July. Originally three expedition teams
had booked with Jasmine Tours for this summer season. One got cancelled before the start of the
season. Second was at Nanga Parbat and the third, still on-going, is at Broad Peak (Baltoro
region). There were a few climbers who had to arrive on the 24th June, and have now changed
their plans. In all, 43 people came. 31 went to Nanga Parbat. 10 went to Broad Peak.
Ernestas was the only member of the International Expedition at the base camp. The rest were
above 6,000 metres where two camps (Camp 1 and Camp 2) were established. Romanian
expedition had even established Camp 3 before news of the tragedy arrived. After the massacre,
the largest evacuations from Nanga Parbat were of the International Expedition adding to the
pile of bills for Jasmine Tours apart from long-term business uncertainty.
Married with 2 children, Jasmines owner Porik runs a small establishment with five employees
since 1995, while the rest are hired on seasonal basis. This year ten were hired on contract
thaika basis in Nanga Parbat and 15-20 people for Baltistan, whose duty was simply to take
tourists to base camps. Eight jeeps were hired to take the team to Nanga Parbat. Then it
happened. Now everyone is staying at Envoy Continental, which is added financial pressure on
us since it goes beyond the tourist package. Government took thousands of dollars of royalty and
fees, but the climbers were unable to climb the mountain. Government has to make amends,
either by telling these climbers to come again, where no new royalty fee will be asked.
Foreigners may even ask for compensation. The climbers next year will ask us what the security
is like, and we will have to convince them profusely. They will ask for explanations.
The total foreign arrival in 2011-12 was a million people (ten lac), those coming for mountain
climbing were merely 4-4.1% (4000-4100), says Tayyab. And for those coming in, the main
focus is Baltistan (where K-2, 8,000metres-plus mountains reside). Nanga Parbat gets only 5% of
tourists. Even smaller portion goes to KPKs Chitral area.
There are three types of payments that are made on behalf of the coming tourists by tour
operators: Mountain Royalty (depending on mountain height), License fee for different
mountains (depending on open and security zones), and Environmental Fee.
Mountain Royalty:
$6000-$11,000 (Nanga Parbat costs $7,200 for a 7-member expedition, one-off payment, which
is a 40% discount to attract mountaineers; The sum increases by $1200 for each additionally
added person.)
Trekkers Permit Fee:
means that the cost can rise to $3000-$3500 per person. Some ask for supplies of fresh vegetable,
meat, so you have to make provision for that. But the major chunk of cost is taken up by the
porters, says Ayub. Nanga Parbat short version route can cost $1000-$1500, while long
version route (that takes climbers around the mountain) can cost $3000-$3500.
Rough estimates of cost of porters is Rs. 500-800. In a 10-12 day normal expedition, 200-250
porters may be employed at three-stage rule i.e. one stage is 8 hours. Four porters are allotted to
one climber, sometimes 7-8 per person. A single porter carries 25kilo weight. His food lodgings
cost is borne by the tour operator. A Rs.10 roti costs Rs. 300-350 at K-2 base camp, says Ayub.
The khachar/donkey providers charge the same rate. This year just in Skardu, the porter
payment rounded up to Rs.5-6 crores. Total season expense usually goes to Rs.12 crores.
The government-owned and private transport providers are milking money as well. Northern
Areas Transport Cooperation, which is a joint venture between the government and Daewoo
takes hundreds of tourists and locals back and forth.
Food can cost Rs. 2-3 lakhs ($2000-$3000) for 20-day trip. BBC reported (25th June) that about
$80 a month is earned as hotel cook, and about $570 as porter during season. The entourage
accompanying a team can include cooks, assistant cooks, guides, assistant guides. Guides take
Rs. 1000 /day ($10). There is even a Liaison Officer usually an army employee or member of
Alpine Club, whose cost is also taken up by the tour operator his responsibility is to arrange
and coordinate security, which area climbers can go to etc.
The schedule of each expedition and trekker is with PID, ISI, local and federal governments, that
a team will be here from this date to the next. And yet none of the people spoken to for this piece
showed any concern for security of the climbers. All contacted were of the view that no one had
ever thought of such a thing happening, and also that a check post with FC/police was deputed at
every 10km range of Karakoram Highway, hence the existing security was good.
Mountaineering is a niche activity and attracts an eclectic group. This summer Pakistan is
playing host to a couple who want to scale every 8,000-er in the world; There is a female who is
attempting to be the first Newzealander female to scale Gasherbaum I and II without oxygen;
Climbing team from Taiwan attempting to be the first from their country to complete G-II; A
Spanish team wants to complete their 8000-er Oscar. Major expedition teams have put camp to
scale K-2. And then there are those who were killed at the base camp: professional accomplished
climbers now all lost to terror.
This is a major disaster for Pakistan, says Tayyab. It was the only thing remaining. Just like
cricket (attack on Sri Lankan team in 2009), now foreigners will not come to Pakistan in this area
either. We will have to do extra effort. And yet, we have still not been able to convince the
foreign cricket teams to tour Pakistan. We will run into problem with the governments whose
nationals were killed.
Hence one of the last functioning tourist attractions and breadwinner for Pak families is now at
cross-roads. Pakistan has bit itself in the hand again. Ironically, it could have all been prevented,
had tougher measures been taken against the extremist locals and more informed and welldeveloped security measures had been done by federal and provincial governments. The human
and financial costs of the massacre have yet to unfold to the fullest.
Recollection is short, fantasy long!
A place where I'd never been born,
must never be born
the Himalayas.
On whose behalf
did I go there?
I went with all ten fingers trembling.
I had but one hope:
to stay as far from the Himalayas as humanly possible,
and from the world of troublesome questions.
Yes, that was it.
Himalaya poem by Ko Un
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------TABLE 1:
Foreign Tourist Inflow in Adventure Mountaineering (i.e. trekkers, expedition teams,
educationists, researchers) Pakistan (source: G-B Tourism Department):
2007: 10,500
2008: 8,500
2009: 7,800
2010: 7,862
2011: 5,242
2012: 4,360
TABLE 2:
Tourism Revenue Figures (source: PTDC):