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Amarones
BY ALISON NAPJUS
PHOTOGRAPHS BY COLIN DUTTON
Great Divide
69
HEART OF THE
VENETO
La
ke
Ga
rd
a
Brother and sister Franco and Marilisa Allegrini manage their historic estate, which is a founding member of the Amarone Families trade group.
70
TASTING REPORT
AMARONE
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thinks that they too find the balance between modernity and tradition in the wines.I have to say, with technology, with machines,
the oxygenation in our wines decreased some; it used to be more
evident, says Grigoli Quintarelli. With more recent bottlings,
with more measures in the cellar, we preserve the integrity and
freshness a bit more. But otherwise, we keep a traditional path.
y recent retrospective tasting of three vintages
of Amarone provided insight into the regions
history and the changes it has undergone. The
tasting included two vintages considered to be
outstanding, 1990 and 1997, as well as a more average vintage,
2006, which showcased Amarone with short-term aging and in its
more modern format. (For my notes on this tasting, see Aging
Amarone, page 74.)
If the growing market interest in Amarone is any indication,
it seems clear that producers in Valpolicella are largely adapting
to their changing circumstances with success, whatever the ongo-
SCORE
PRICE
95
$450
$170
94
$100
$150
Silky, with black cherry, date, candied orange zest and cocoa flavors.
The seamless knit and fine balance impart grace, with flavors of baked
currant and cherry that glide over the dense tannins.
$350
$75
92
$64
91
$60
91
$80
91
$60
90
$64
90
$40
90
$60
90
$91
90
$85
90
$50
Offers black cherry and spice flavors, with earth and tobacco notes.
ZENATOAmarone della Valpolicella Classico 2012
94
$170
Balanced, with notes of black cherry puree, lavender, date and mineral.
BRIGALDARAAmarone della Valpolicella Classico 2010
Bright and lively, with flavors of cherry, raspberry and grilled herb.
93
$65
Rich and well-integrated, with date, mandarin orange peel, dried cherry
and espresso flavors, fine-grained tannins and spicy minerality.
93
$90
Sleek, offering a profile of cherry, orange zest, tar and forest floor.
A dense red, offering finely sculpted tannins and rich cherry compote,
forest floor, baking spice, date and singed orange peel flavors.
Features ripe, juicy black cherry fruit and tarry mineral character.
LE SALETTEAmarone della Valpolicella Classico
93
$85
La Marega 2012
Bright and tangy, with ripe cherry, anise and marjoram hints.
92
72
$59
Classico 2006
92
Savory hints of cured tobacco and smoke meet wild strawberry and
crushed black cherry fruit in this burly red, with a lasting finish.
$130
92
Shows notes of black cherry pte de fruit, dried marjoram and clove.
$85
This has dried cherry, fig fruit, dried marjoram and hot stone flavors.
Offers a mix of dried cherry, raspberry and Earl Grey tea flavors.
92
PRICE
TB 2009
SCORE
Features notes of crushed black cherry, dried thyme, mocha and spice.
WINE
Elegant, with flavors of black cherry, orange peel and wild herb.
93
$70
Creamy and aromatic, with dried currant, fig cake and smoke notes.
TASTING REPORT
AMARONE
resulting wine drier and richer in taste, darker in color and silkier in texture. But the
Veneto region, located about an hour and a half west of Venice and just
The idea is to dry gradually until January, says Francesco Grigoli Quintarelli
five parallel valleys, bordered by the Adige River to the west and the town of
of the Giuseppe Quintarelli estate. The difficult part is the first three weeks, when
the grape is humid from the field. Once the stem is dried its much safer.
The grapes are susceptible to the development of mold, most often botrytis.
A limited amount of cleaner, drier botrytis is sometimes considered beneficial for
eties. Almost all producers bottling Amarone also offer Valpolicella, with versions
Amarone: It imparts flavor and textural complexity for silkier wines, with interest-
ranging from a light, easy-drinking red to serve with pizza to the rich, sappy Val-
ing oxidative notes of nuts and dried fruit. Historically, this was often considered
What separates Amarone from the areas Valpolicella bottlings is its distinctive
But botrytis can easily present as the more common gray rota blanket of mold
Left: Workers harvest Corvina, Corvinone and Molinara grapes at Masi. Right: Michele Dal Forno in Dal Fornos drying rooms, where appassimento takes place.
production process and resulting character. This is largely attributable to a drying
covering the entire surface of the grape rather than limited botrytis on individual
berries. Gray rot spells disaster, making the production of a drinkable Amarone
virtually impossible.
ing can now legally take place as early as Dec. 1, but many producers wait until the
The appellation allows the inclusion of other varieties (up to 25 percent), and the
historic time frame of late January or early February. A shorter drying period cre-
ates wines that are rounder and more fruit-forward and generous in their youth,
All of the grapes [for Amarone] are late-harvesters, says Franco Allegrini of
while traditionalists prefer the more structured versions that result from additional
the Allegrini estate. So you run a risk. Rain later in the growing season can take
drying time. Once the grapes are pressed, fermentation begins, typically long and
a long time to dry out in the vineyard, increasing the possibility of fungal develop-
ment. Growers in the area prize well-ventilated sites, particularly those on hillsides,
In the past, stuck fermentations were a problem: When it was too cold the
and only the healthiest grapes are selected for Amaroneideally, loose bunches
chemical reaction would stop and start, often leading to the creation of volatile
that allow for airflow and that will dry evenly during appassimento.
acidity in the wine. As with the development of botrytis and the oxidative charac-
After harvest, the grapes are dried for up to four months prior to pressing.
teristic it promotes, some find that a limited amount of volatile acidity adds a posi-
Traditionally, grapes for Amarone were placed on straw mats in fruttaios, drying
tive note of complexity. But for others, its a flaw, and rampant volatile aciditya
buildings located on windy hillside areas, and Amarone was only produced in the
pervasive acetone noteruins a wine. To avoid these pitfalls, producers today rely
best years, when the quality of the fruit at harvest was partnered with naturally
moderated, beneficial conditions in the fruttaio (cooler fall and winter tempera-
tures and consistent humidity levels). Today, most producers have replaced the
After appassimento, the grapes are pressed and fermented as red wine. Press-
inara grapes are grown, with harvest typically taking place in early to mid-October.
After the fermentation and winemaking process, the finished wine is aged
straw mats with more sanitary plastic crates, and drying facilities incorporate
for at least two years prior to release, or four years if the Amarone is labeled as a
riserva. Many of the regions best producers will age their Amarone for additional
time, anywhere from five to 10 years in total. Few wineries still use the large cherry
they lose about 30 percent to 40 percent of their weight via water evaporation,
casks that were once the norm for aging Amarone; most today opt for oak. De-
significantly changing the ratio of grape skin, seed and pulp. Chemically, acidity
pending on the preference of the winemaker and the desired end wine, everything
decreases and sugar content increases, with a change in the ratio of fructose to
from small, new French oak barriques to large Slavonian tonneaux are commonly
glucose. This typically raises levels of polyphenols as well as glycerin, making the
A.N.
73
Aging Amarone
ery with his sisters Antonietta and Sabrina, calls 1990 a perfect
vintage. He describes the growing season and harvest as generally very warm and dry, but punctuated by rain at exactly the
right moments. These conditions allowed the areas producers to
harvest incredibly healthy fruitexactly what they seek in grapes
for Amarones drying process.
Of 1997, Tedeschi notes, Conditions were very similar to 1990,
and there was lovely acidity in 1997. Both vintages are considered outstanding examples for the regiondream years in which
it was hard for winemakers to go wrong, both in the vineyards
and in the cellar.
In contrast, the 2006 growing season was a challenge. Abundant rainfall through the spring and summer months meant a lot
of work in the vineyards, necessitating canopy management and
green harvesting to keep vines healthy. But for those who persevered in these efforts, 2006 was saved by excellent conditions
during the final month of the growing season and into harvest.
Warm, sunny days allowed the vineyards to dry out as the grapes
completed their physiological maturity.
2006s. Because of their youth, I expected to encounter burly versions that would
general, I dont think these wines will develop greatly or benefit significantly from
additional aging. Of particular interest was the stylistic range of this group: Busso-
were the most harmonious and elegant of the tasting, offering a fine marriage of
las Vigneto Alto TB (92 points) clearly showed a throwback, oxidative style; Mi-
chele Castellanis I Castei (91) was a more traditional version, with still-dense tan-
Despite the fine quality of the 2006s in the tasting, no bottling in the flight
nins and savory cured tobacco and tarry smoke notes; and Allegrinis 1990 (94)
received a classic rating (95 to 100 points), exactly because of the drinkability of
was a forerunner of a more modern format, rich and layered, but with fine-grained
these wines. I felt they lacked a certain tension that might allow them to cruise in
the cellar even longer, and as a result, I would recommend drinking 2006 Ama-
The 1997s hit a sweet spot between the 1990swines with considerable age
and the 2006s, which still have more to show. Vibrant and well-structured, with a
It was an intriguing tasting, with some fascinating examples from older vin-
notable aromatic presence, the 1997s offer herb and spice notes accompanied by
These are wines that are still delicious and drinkable now, yet they represent a
The biggest surprise of the tasting was the across-the-board strength of the
style not likely to be repeated or found again in todays wine world. Its unlikely the
2006s will mirror the 1997s or the 1990s when they have aged for 19 or 26 years,
W I N E S P E C TATO R .CO M
BONUS VIDEO Learn about the Venetos top-quality reds with winemaker
Marilisa Allegrini. Watch her at www.winespectator.com/121516.
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but its hard to deny the qualitative success of Amarone dressed in its modern
clothing. It suggests a future well worth watching.
A.N.
TASTING REPORT
AMARONE
1990
94 AllegriniAmarone della Valpolicella Classico Superiore$31
Rich and layered, with toffee pudding, balsamico and dried strawberry
flavors and fine-grained tannins accented by smoky minerality, grilled herb
and spice box. A still vibrant red that puts all the pieces together, with a
lasting finish of raspberry ganache and spice that shows an overall sense
of finesse. Drink now through 2025.
92 Tommaso BussolaAmarone della Valpolicella Classico Vigneto
Alto TB$NANot a powerhouse, and in an oxidative style, but lovely for
its delicate and distinctive bouquet of dried cherry, almond skin, iodine
and dark chocolate shavings layered with citrusy acidity and a zesty base
of spicy mineral, with a long, lingering sherry-tinged finish. Drink now.
92 CesariAmarone della Valpolicella Classico$NAThis tarry
version, with accents of bay leaf and Asian five spice lacing dried currant
and treacle notes. Supple tannins lightly firm the finish, and the aromatic
flavor range and overall harmony brings you back for another sip. Drink
now through 2021.
2006
1997
94 Michele CastellaniAmarone della Valpolicella Classico I Castei
$NAA deep garnet hue, this is fresh and focused, with savory leather,
smoke and fresh earth notes meshed with hints of ripe, sundried cherry, fig
cake and orange pte de fruit. The tannins are supple but still very much
present in this spiced red, and mineral accents of iron and iodine gain
momentum and linger on the finish. Drink now through 2026.
94 ZenatoAmarone della Valpolicella Classico Sergio Zenato
Riserva$NADried sage and thyme notes are underscored by a ferrous
minerality in this elegant, finely-knit red, which is maturing gracefully
silky and seamlesswith date and preserved strawberry fruit, followed by
abundant ground clove and anise, espresso and citrus peel notes lingering
on the finish. Drink now through 2024.
93 AllegriniAmarone della Valpolicella Classico$67Richly tarry
on the nose and palate, with grippy tannins and flavors of baked raspberry,
singed orange peel, espresso, dried marjoram and crushed clove and pink
peppercorn. A vibrant version thats still tightly-knit with a lasting finish of
spice and wild strawberry. Drink now through 2024.
93 Tommaso BussolaAmarone della Valpolicella Classico Vigneto
Alto TB$95Ripe and borderline bombastic, with candied strawberry,
dried orange and red licorice notes and spicy accents of star anise,
medicinal herb and fig cake. This is round and creamy, a juicy red showing
savory hints of salumi and olive along with the fruit and spice on the zesty
finish. A lot of personality still. Drink now through 2021.
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