Astro Mag Issue 5

Check out Mays Datasheet
Contest Winners on page 1.

Also Inside:
nn Speed Painting
nn Foam-core Fortifications
nn Apocalypse Fiction
nn More!
The Beginning of the End, Apocalypse!

Huzzah, issue 5 is finally released (and look, no Comic Sans)! Well doesnt this new layout look all
shiny? Thats all thanks to one of our new additions, Charles AgnosticGod Rasico. We finally have
a nice professional looking layout which makes me really happy! I really need to thank all the editors
for their outstanding work this issue. We are quickly becoming a well-oiled machine. Another big
thank you needs to go out to the Astronomican forums (our home away from home) for their huge
Editorial
support every issue, Bell of Lost Souls for their continued support and Warseer for really helping to
put us on the map. Before Wintermute so kindly placed our humble mag in the news feed we were
averaging a respectable 4,000 downloads an issue. With our last release in April (and the first release
on Warseer) we breached 10,000 downloads. A huge milestone for all of us here, especially since its
just a magazine we like to publish for fun to help out fellow wargamers!
EDITING STAFF
Chief Editor
Kevin Arkaedin Fronczak
Copy Editor
Andrew Deathboon Kocher
Hobby Editor
Randy Johnson
Tactics & Fiction Editor
Silver
Article Layout Editor
Morgan Consadine Rinehart
Layout Designer
Charles AgnosticGod Rasico
But enough with the rambling, eh? This issue is all about APOCALYPSE. Ok, well not all
about Apocalypse, but there are certainly some wonderful articles that could help you out in your
mega battles. Go see for yourself! Please send us feedback (or articles for next issue) at
theastromag@gmail.com because your opinions help us make this a better magazine for you guys.
Thank you to all of the DeviantArt

Warhammer 40,000 artisits for the awesome
artwork that made this issue work!
Dont forget to check our homepage for updates on issues and some cool live content we like to release
at random points. I hope you all enjoy the issue!
-Kevin Arkaedin Fronczak
Cover Image
Warlord Titan by Californias Dave Smith
taken from Bell of Lost Souls article here.
Astro Mag is published every three months in association with Astronomican.com. All text and layout
remains the copyright of Astro Mag. Astro Mag is a fully independent publication and its views are
not the views of any company mentioned herein. All characters and artwork shown in this magazine
remain the and trademark of their respective owners. No part of this magazine may be reproduced
without the express permission of the Editor. Astro Mag can accept no responsibility for inaccuracies
or complaints arising from editorial or advertising within this magazine. All letters and emails received
will be considered for publication, but we cannot always provide personal replies.
This fanzine is completely unofficial and in no way endorsed by Games Workshop Limited. Astro
Mag is a nonprofit making fanzine with the aim of promoting Games Workshop games, products and
hobby. For more see the disclaimer at the end of this fanzine.
mag.astronomican.com
Apocalypse - Issue 5 - July 2009
What's Inside
Apocalypse
Datasheet
Competition
Behind the Lines
Foam-core Fortifications for 40K
13 Waterslides (Decals)
Apocalypse
17 Speed Painting Tutorial
20 An Idiot Learns to Airbrush

23 Imperial Guard: Veterans
15
25
28 Rules Q & A
29 The Harlequins Dance
32 Next Issue
Khorne Demon Tactica
ii
Apocalypse Datasheet Contest

By: Kevin Arkaedin Fronczak
having four categories worth ten points each
The Datasheet competition was an incredibly fun
If you want to read on what each category was
competition to run and all the entries that came
in were pretty great. I know Ill use a few of the

sheets in my next friendly game of Apocalypse!
The idea for this competition came in passing
Contest
from Captain Kellen of Astronomican. Just a
simple idea, but it intrigued me so I made two
branches to it: one for The Astro Mag and one

for the Astronomican forums. As entries for
the mags version began pouring in, I realized

we were going to need some kick-ass prizes
to go with it which is the reason I set up the
Donations page on the Astro Mag blog. We
and two bonus categories worth five points each.

and what the descriptions were, just follow this
link to the original post on our blog. When we

started judging, the three winners immediately
jumped to the top as our favorites. They were
creative, original and had absolutely stunning
datasheets out (you can
click the link next to them
to download all the entries
or you can follow this link) I
just want to say thank you to all
who donated and especially to all of the people

who entered! You guys made this a wonderful
competition to hold and to judge and Im sure
it will liven up a few games of Apocalypse
somewhere (my house being one)!
rules. I believe some of my comments when I

first saw them were wow and Bad-ass
but thats irrelevant.

Before you
head on over and
check the winning
ended up raising enough money to give our first

prize winner, The_Frm4terer, a $50 voucher for
the Games Workshop store and our second prize

winner, Farskit, a $35 box set of his choice
(ended up being Khorne Beserkers). I
should mention that Farskit also won a

shiny new Drop Pod for winning the
Astronomican forums competition as

well. Lucky git!

Judging this competition was
certainly tough and even tougher was coming

up with a rubric on how to grade each entry.
After toying with a few ideas and talking to
many people to gather their input, I decided on
Click here to download Datasheet
#1 Lamachand Sonic Tank Formation

nn Creator: Teh_Frm4terer
nn Points Effectiveness: 29/30
nn Rules: 29/30
nn Fluff: 28/30
nn Originality: 27/30
nn Picture Quality: 13/15
nn Apocalyptic?: 13/15
nn Total: 139/150
Teh_Frm4terer: I came up with the idea of the Lamarchand Tank
Formation after reading the other vehicle datasheets available in the
Apocalypse book, and on the net. I realised that there was a distinct lack
of Slaaneshi forces present and decided that this had to be amended. I had
written a few datasheets before so it was reasonably easy to start a new one.
Personally I find that the easiest way to write a datasheet is to take a
great story and write rules for it rather than the other way round. With
this in mind I chose the Sonic Predators from my EC army because I had
already written some story for it back when I originally made the army
fluff. After that, it was simply a matter of looking at the current rules
for similar datasheets and creating mine around that. When it comes
to coming up with a points cost I find, as a rule of thumb, its better for
custom datasheets to cost a bit more than they should rather than a bit less
to balance any overpowered rules you may have missed.
After the rules were written, and playtested!, I used my own datasheet
template to make a mock-up. Once the mock-up was complete I took it to
my local store and played a few games with it. The general consensus was it
was actually too weak. No worries, just went home lowered the points cost
and added the Commanding Presence rule to fix a movement problem
with the formation. After this modification the datasheet worked well and
I made the final copy,
Since its debut, it has developed into a core part of my games of
apocalypse, and become a vital part of the Chaos Armada in the on-going
campaign at my local store!
Quintessential Apocalypse. I am
surprised GW has not made this yet,
perhaps for the legion codex. ~ Judge
#2 Tomb Stalker
nn Creator: Farskit
nn Points Efectiveness: 29/30

nn Rules: 25/30
nn Fluff: 28/30

nn Total: 137/150
Farskit: Apocalypse, since it came out, has done a good job at covering extensively
most races of the 40K universe, bestowing us with a flurry of legendary units,
formations and super-heavies to choose from and pit against each other in
gargantuan, epic battles. Three races, however, have been severely neglected the
Dark Eldar, the Necron, and the Inquisition.
I have not followed the Medusa V campaign, to be honest. The only thing I
ever remembered of it was the small piece of information reporting the sighting
of a giant Necron construct, that had finally been brought down by Titans.
The Tomb Stalker, as it was named, already existed in the fluff, I now had
to make the rules. The Stalker wouldnt really be a battle Titan. What if it was
similar in concept to the Tyranid Malanthrope? It would pass on battlefields
after the action and mend or retrieve whatever was left behind. I imagined that
the giant tomb-cities of the Necron needed equally huge guardians, the Stalkers
would be perfect for that role.
Now for the rules. I decided the Stalker would work like a Monolith, having
to choose which system to activate. The Gauss Disintegrator was born purely
because the picture I chose for the Titan had a dorsal gun! Then I decided to arm
it like a Tomb Spyder, because it was essentially a giant version. One close combat
weapon, one firing weapon, with the option to swap for more mano e mano
deadliness. Alright!
I decided it wasnt within the Stalkers fluff to teleport units, but it sure as
hell would repair them! Thus the Crystal Matrix rules were designed. The Stalker
would also excel at self-repair, being Necron. I hesitated to give it the option to
move more, and finally did so, but half-heartedly.
To adjust the point value, I gave it six Structure Points and tried to see what
it would take to bring it down. Two Warhounds seemed to fit the bill. Thus, I
decided 1500 points. I hope time will tell if that estimated value was correct!
All in all, I really had a blast designing this unit. By choosing an already
existing unit, I made sure I didnt stray from the spirit of the 40K universe, and
laying out the fluff, special rules and most of all the picture was really, really fun.
Fun to use, interesting rules which are

truly in character with the Necrons really
make this one stand out for me. ~ Judge
#3 Eldar Storm Serpent

nn Creator: Akenseth
nn Rules: 25/30
nn Fluff: 28/30
nn Total: 133/150
Akenseth: The reason I designed this datasheet was to bring into
40K something that nobody else had yet covered (from at least what
I could find after extensive searching). The Storm Serpent only
appears in Epic, and being the stickler I am for completeness, many
years ago I ran a Biel-Tan army and I had to have one unit of every
aspect, I knew that I could not go without one.
I came up with the initial idea for the rules based on the Eldar
Webway portal rules, back from the Eye of Terror campaign and
I added some little twists to keep it in line with the fluff. After
pitching the concept and working out the points with some friends
I took the time to convert the entire model from a Scorpion from
Forgeworld, I have even been fortunate enough to use it in some
games already!
It took several days to make the datasheet after that and have
other people read it over, I took my time to get it to match the
layout of the Imperial Armor Apocalypse datasheets.
From the Warp community members then helped me tune
in the rules and realize a few things that can be done with it;
they even suprised me with fixing the wording of the rules on
something which I had overlooked. Overall, the Storm Serpent is
what it is because of the community effort.
It really befits the Eldar to go to such

lengths as to create a fully mobile
Wraithgate carrier! ~ Judge
#4 Magnus the Red

nn Creator: Deathboon
nn Rules: 24/30
nn Fluff: 20/30
nn Total: 117/150
Deathboon: Why Magnus you ask?
I was trolling the Games Workshop website one day and saw
the Angron Datasheet. As a long time lover of Thousand Sons I
wanted to see their primarch in action as well, and since we know
from the fluff that he is one of the survivng traitor primarchs I was
inspired.
When the datasheet competition came along it was all the
motivation i needed to bring Magnus to life. I used Angrons
statline as my basis, as I figured all primarchs would be similarly
powerful, then I said to myself, What differences would the two
have? So I adjusted that statline accordingly, lowering his combat
abilities and increasing his balistic skill.
The next step was to give him powers, I wanted psychic
abilities on par with super-heavy tank and titan weaponry, so I
thought to myself, What would a psyker powerfull enough to
transport a legion across the known galaxy be capable of? I then
gave him powers accordingly.
Once that step was done I proceeded to the nerfing. Prior to
the nerfing he would have been completely unplayably broken.
This is how Magnus should be.

Really, gorgeous rules. ~ Judge
Behind the Lines

By: Mark Wafu_Vasco Barber
Ok, I got the target.
ETA on attack?
T-minus fifty-seconds.
Your laser is armed, sir.
Kurt activated the laser target designator, and a
computer generated red beam cut
across the varied shades of
green which formed his
night vision display. He
swept the red beam
slowly across the
hilltops, until it
came to rest on the target: an Eldar missile silo.

Thirty-seconds.
Every second seemed like an eternity. What the hell
were they doing? This was a job for marines. Yet here
they were, sat in a Reaver Class medium battle titan, in
the middle of enemy territory, stood still firing a lasertargeting beam. But there was no-one else for the job
- only titans carried targeting equipment sophisticated
enough to avoid detection, and as for the Warhounds...
all dead. The entire Warhound Class scout titan fleet
of the Morning Stars Orders was without pilots: a
Warhound Princeps was one of the most dangerous jobs
in the Imperial armed forces.
Twenty-five seconds.
Kurt prayed to the machine gods, and to the soul
of Vanquo, his titan. He wondered if time seemed to
slow down for his two crew, too. The audio input of
the Reaver began to track a contact moving quickly
behind them. IFF identified it as a friend. The
Ultramarines Thunderhawks.
Ten-seconds.
Kurt could sense more than a
little excitement in Master Sergeant
Kovalskis voice. Even that old dog
was a little nervous. The shadowy
outlines of the gunships drifted
lazily into Kurts line of sight. He
yawned and his eyes blurred, the
outlines of the craft becoming
even hazier.
Coming down?
Coming down, Kovalski
reported.
An immense
explosion lit up the night sky,
blinding Kurts night vision equipment
with a white flash.
Ok, were out of here.

Kurt killed the laser beam and powered up the
main drive shafts from the plasma reactor. Vanquos
knee joints juddered as the thigh plates raised, readying
the titan to move. Kurt opened the right throttle
slightly, powering the corresponding leg into turning
the war machine around on the spot.
Damage assessment, Kovalski, Kurt barked over
the comm.
He saw the plasma blastgun on the titans carapace
move to face backwards as the moderatus checked the
silo. Kurt powered both legs at 75% and moved the
titan into a jog. The lumbering war machine bounded
forwards, stepping over trees and rivers as it ran back
downhill towards the imperial lines. Night vision finally
compensating, Kurt switched from Instruments back to
visual to pilot the titan.
Its gone, Captain. Totally destroyed, Kovalski
reported over the comm.
Good. Take some pictures for Brass.
A warning klaxon began to blare on Kurts damage
VDU. He quickly punched in the key commands to
localise the damage, and groaned at what he saw.
Hunt?
Sir?
Ive got a locked stabiliser on your gatling cannon.
I told you to get it fixed.
I...I...it should be fine, Captain, gimme a
minute...
Kurt tutted and turned back to his HUD. Sergeant
Hunt was still new at the game, but he wasnt learning
quickly enough. He checked the navigation computer;
only fifteen miles to the imperial front line. Kurt could
already see the flashes of explosions and ordinance fire
on the horizon.
You see that? Sergeant Hunt shouted over the
comm.
Kurt quickly scanned his eyes across the horizon,
searching for anything out of the ordinary.
See what, Hunt? Be specific! Kovalski barked.
I thought I saw another titan. Check sensors at ohthree-five along to oh-three-seven.
Kurt assumed that the little sergeant was issuing a
request, and not an order, and scanned along the cone
6
he had requesting.
Nothing, Hunt, just some bombed out buildings...
wait...
One of the buildings disappeared from the scan,
and reappeared a fraction of a second later. Kurt had
been a Princeps for four years, and knew the signs well.
Holo-fields: Eldar titan.
Shut down all nonessential systems! Powering up
weapons! Good spot, Hunt, keep it up!
Kurt quickly killed the radar, navigation, and
external comms, and channelled more energy into the
weapons and void shields. The protective fields hummed
reassuringly. The enemy titan moved. It knew that it
had been identified.
Shes a Phantom Class, Kovalski reported, looks
like a power fist and a pulse laser.
Hold your fire, Kurt hissed, lets get closer.
Throwing both the throttles open, Kurt coaxed
Vanquo into a full sprint, ducking and weaving through
the bombed out buildings which showed the edge of
Fetoria Prime, the Imperial capital. Flashes appeared
just to the left of the Phantoms head.
Theyre firing, sir! Theyre firing! Hunt
shouted over the comm.
Easy, kid, its just a ranging shot, Kurt
reassured the young moderatus. He sighed and
shook his head. Twenty-two years old, and Kurt
was already so old in this game that he could call
others Kid.
A few small missiles streaked past the
Reaver and impacted in a wall off to its
left. The next salvo would be a little more
threatening.
Range is one...
Im in range! Hunt cut Kurt off.
Ok, Sergeant, give them a little to think about.
Servomotors whined as the gatling blasters
barrels struggled into motion. Two-seconds later the
thundering began sending a blinding flash of light and
a numbing recoil from the titans right arm. The salvo
of shells streaked towards the Phantom, exploding
against the buildings it was attempting to hide
within. A few lucky shots impacted off the
Eldar machines left leg, but nothing penetrated
its thick armour. The Phantom began to move, and

immediately it became three or four blurred titan
images as the holo-fields kicked in.
Range at five-zero, Kovalski reported, suggest I
hold fire.
I concur. Wait for my signal.
The Eldar titan lit up, flashes illuminating both
wings and its pulsar. Glowing white snakes of laser
energy darted towards the Reaver. Kurt thumbed the
left knee button to drop the shoulder, but knew
that the salvo was largely unavoidable.
Brace, brace, brace! he shouted.
The pulses of laser energy slammed
into the Reaver, knocking its
protective bubbles of void shield
down in quick succession.
A trio of
missiles
impacted against Vanquos chainfist, but to no avail.

Kurt breathed a sigh of relief.
Give her a squirt!
The Reaver jolted as the gatling gun burst into life
again, slightly spinning the torso. The deafening pophiss of the plasma blastgun erupted from the carapace,
lurching the Reaver back onto its heels momentarily.
Both shots flew wide of the mark; ploughing through
imaginary titans conjured up by the genuine foes
Art courtesy Addinarr from Deviant Art
disruptor fields. Kurt allowed himself a brief smile as a

single void shield glowed back into life.
Kovalski: Im putting you offline to get the shields
up, Kurt said calmly, reallocating the power from
the reactor. The silence from the carapace gunner
showed that this decision was not welcomed. Kurt kept
Vanquo bounding forth, smashing through the shells
of tall buildings. The two towering war machines were
drawing close now. Small arms fire from the darkness of
the ground swept lazily up into both titans, signalling
that they were over the front line. A second void shield
lit up. No sooner was it online when a duo of laser bolts
from the Phantoms pulsar knocked the shields back
down again.
A burst of fire from the Phantoms wing mounted
laser cannon punched into Hunts gatling gun, sending
explosions blossoming along the weapon. The young
moderatus screamed over the comm.
Hunt? You ok? Hunt?
Im ok, the gunner coughed, just a little cooked.
Ive got the bastard! Kovalski shouted, Give me
something to shoot with!
Kurt diverted power back to the plasma blastgun,
and the Reaver shook with its recoil again. The blue
stream of energy ran straight and true, slamming into
the Phantoms right wing. As if suddenly becoming
sober, Kurt saw all the Phantoms converge into one,
real titan. It was really close, too.
Have this! Kurt screamed, throwing both the
throttles fully forwards.
The Reaver sprinted forwards again, fire from the

Eldar infantry criss-crossing in its wake. The Phantom
gracefully turned to face the charging Reaver, but
too late: Kurt slammed Vanquos shoulder into the
Phantom, knocking it back reeling into a relatively
intact building. Taking advantage of the opening, Kurt
thumbed the Reavers chainfist into life and swept
it across the Phantoms legs, tearing off a knee cap.
Limping, stumbling, the Phantom lurched forwards
into combat.
With unerring speed, the Phantoms power fist
grabbed hold of Kurts whirring chainfist, stopping
it in mid attack. Roaring, dripping with sweat, Kurt
yanked on the chainfists control arm, feeling immense
pain in his own left arm through Mind Impulse Unit
feedback as the power fist yanked at the chainfist. He
looked forward through the HUD, straight up into the
head of the Eldar titan. He had never been this close to
one. Instead of having one pilot at the controls, directly
linked to the titan through an MIU, three Eldar sat
comfortably on a beige couch in the centre of the head,
eyes closed in trance, heads connected to a stone in the
ceiling through long wires.
Kurt grabbed the pilots heavy bolter, fixed in the
Reavers main view port on a pintle mount. He cocked
it and opened fire, sending explosive shells up into the
Phantoms head. Nothing penetrated the armour.
Drop the shields! Kovalski screamed, I need all
the power weve got!
Shields were no good now. Kurt felt tears well in
his eyes as he gritted his teeth: sparks began to appear

in the chainfists shoulder mount as it was pulled
out of its socket. Kurts left arm began to tremble
uncontrollably. The fingers of his right hand danced
over the command keypad as he quickly reallocated
more power. Three-seconds until Kovalski could fire
again.
Come on! Kurt screamed, Fire!
In answer, the blastgun roared. The Phantom
staggered back dizzily, lurching back and forth.
Suddenly, the Eldar war machines legs locked up,
and it fell back, almost comically. The smoke of the
initial explosion clearing, Kurt had time to see on its
way down that its head had been totally destroyed.
Vaporised.
Taking all weapons off line, Kurt powered up the
shields and nav systems again, fleeing back towards
home before some heavy weapons trooper got lucky.
Hunt? You still there?
Ill check on him, Kovalski answered.
The big Master Sergeant appeared behind Kurt,
having used the escape tunnel to get to his ejector seat
in the head. He quickly crawled down Hunts escape
tunnel, to the gunners position.
Hes out cold. Best get back quick. Hes burnt,
Kovalski reported.
Safely behind friendly lines, Kurt threw all power
into the main drive shafts and sprinted for home.
Foam-core Fortification for 40k
Modeling
By: Brian Fear the Psyker Thayer
With this issue of The Astro Mag I wanted to

give every 40k player a tutorial on how to make
an easy piece of foamcore terrain. Many players
spend their money on fancy models or operate on
a very limited budget and because of that, they
cannot or choose not to spend their money on the
plastic terrain kits produced by Games Workshop.
This article is for those of us who love playing the
game, but have no desire to spend hours upon
hours and loads of money building and painting
terrain. This building is functional, stable, and
very strong, nothing more. The piece I designed
for this article cost less than $5 in materials and
took just a few hours of time.
Step 1: Find a large

enough piece of black
foamcore. Make sure you use
the kind that has a matte,
slightly textured, finish on
the paper. The matte finish
is crucial, as it makes painting
without primer much easier. You could use the
glossy white foamcore sold just about everywhere,
but it adds time to the project; it may require
primer or extra coats of paint. Since the goal here
is to get this thing built as quickly as possible, I
recommend you avoid white foamcore.
1
Materials:
Black foamcore
Tacky glue
Toothpicks
Razor blade / X-acto
knife
Left: The pieces shown are

10 x 6.5 and 8 x 6.5.
Pin vise
Metal ruler
Pencil
Card stock / cereal box
Cutting mat or workbench
Craft paints
Step 2: Using your metal ruler and pencil,

mark out the four rectangular pieces carefully. I
use a clear ruler with grid lines to keep my edges
square, but so long as you measure carefully, you
should end up with clean 90-degree corners. Cut
them out using a new razor blade and your metal
ruler as a guide. As with all foamcore, make
multiple shallow cuts, instead of trying to hack
your way through in one pass.
Step 3: Mark out the angles for the buttresses and

cut off the excess foam. For this piece, simply measure
up 1 and in 1 and draw a line.
Step 4: Mark and cut slots into the four pieces

as shown (4A). For the front and back, cut up from the
bottom and for the sides, cut down from the top. The
slots should be cut to the exact center of each piece (4B).
These slots add strength to the building that glue alone
does not provide (4C).
To locate the slots, measure in 1 from the
bottom corners and draw them out onto the foamcore.
Test fit as you go. The slots are a pain to cut precisely, so
trim and shave them as needed.
4B
3
4A
Step 5: Measure and cut a piece for the roof.

Step 6: Cut out a template for the gun slits and door
from a piece of thin card stock (6A). Make one for each
side of the building, as they will eventually be glued on
to add a little detail. Before you glue them on, use them
as a template to mark out the gun slits on the foamcore.
Carefully, cut out the gun slits (6B). I chose to leave the
foamcore in place for the doors, but feel free to cut them
out if you would like.
5
4C
6B
6A
10
Step 7: Add battle damage to your building. I like

to add bullet holes and blast damage to the edges and
faces to suit my taste (7A). This is like salt, a little goes
a long way, so do not turn your intact building into a
ruin by cutting too much of it off with your razor blade.
To replicate the blast damage I have on the front of
the building just draw it out on the foamcore (7B) and
carefully cut off just the top layer of paper. Once you
have removed the paper, use your knife to scar and cut
the foam to resemble chipped concrete (7C).
7A
Step 8: Now it is time to assemble everything.

First, glue the four wall pieces together. Be generous
with the glue, the stuff is cheap and helps strengthen
the building.
I recommend using tacky glue because it does not
shrink when dry like normal PVA glue. If you have
to use PVA, just be aware that the building might be
a little warped when dry. In the U.S., Tacky Glue is
available at Wal-Mart or any craft store for less than a
couple dollars.
I recessed the roof panel down from the top of
the foamcore. This gives models a short wall to stand
behind and makes the building look just a little bit
better. Glue the roof panel in place, but do not stop,
yet. We want to be able to place heavy metal models
on this thing, so grab some toothpicks. Cut three or
four in half, drill holes through the face of the building
and into the foamcore roof panel. Drive the toothpicks
into the foam until they are flush with the face of the
building. Those buggers can be sharp, so use the flat
side of a tool when pushing them in.
7B
7C
11
Step 9: Once the building has been assembled,

glue on the card stock details you made earlier. You
can embellish the building with as much detail as you
like. Chaos players, just add spikes and Ork players
just need to slap on a glyph or two. I chose to keep this
building simple, so I only glued on the door templates
and another thin strip to represent a small overhang
above the door. Do not forget about roof access. I made
a simple hatch from a couple layers of card stock.
Step 10: Once all of the glue is dry, paint! (10A)

Since we have used materials with a slight texture, there
is no need to spray prime the building. Use cheap craft
paint in various hues of grey and slap on some paint. Be
sure to paint small details like a window and handles on
the door and call it done (10B).
Google Sketch rendering of

fortification Dimensions.
To demonstrate just how strong this building is,

here is an old metal dreadnought standing on the roof
(11).
I originally wanted to name this article Foam-core
Ruins for 40k in 40 minutes, but I needed an intact
building more than another ruin. The great thing about
this article, though, is that if all you need is a couple of
simple L-shaped corner ruins to use as cover, they can
be built in as little as 40 minutes. Simply take just two
sides of the building above, cut off as little or as much
as you would like from the edges where the other walls
would have been, and glue them together. Add a small
second story floor in the corner three inches off the
ground and support it with toothpicks. Add paint and
you are done.
10A
10B
12
11
Making Waterslides Easy!

By: Mark Darknight Emmerson
Hi guys, just a quick tutorial on how to put those
transfers on your minis.
You can use this method on all surfaces but i have
done this on a curved one as they are harder to do,
Obviously for flat surfaces you dont need to cut the
shape like i have here, but apart from that its the same.
You MUST curve the top the same way as the

curve on where it is to be placed.
Get your mini and brush on it a small amount of

your water/varnish mix where you want the transfer to
go, the transfer i left in the water, and pushed it under
with the brush, you will know when its ready as you can
move it off the backing paper with the brush, and use
that to apply it.
Next use warm water, not too much, as you want

also to add one drop of satin varnish to the water.
The more water you have the more varnish you
need, this is about a teaspoonful.
First, sort out the transfer you want, im doing an
eldar warp spider as its quite difficult, curved and small
so you can see how easy this works. cut the transfer off
the page, and carefully trim it as close to the edge as
possible trying to get a shape that will match the place
where it is to go on your mini.
13
DONT use your fingers, as this can leave oil on the

transfer and stop it from sticking properly.
Atlantis Gaming Group is a small group of friends who are devoted to

having fun and playing all kinds of games. We have over the years played
Position properly, using only the brush, as you can
see i put mine upside down to show how easy it is to
move to the correct position, when its there dab lightly
with the corner of a paper towel, to absorb all the water,
then brush a coat of neat varnish on over entire area and
let dry and voila.
many games, but currently are engrossed in the utter annihilation of each
other in the wonderfully fun world of Warhammer 40K. Come check out
our many adventures in gaming at AtlantisGG.BlogSpot.com.
One of the most important bits is to remember to

cut the transfer in an arc at the top, to correspond to the
arc of the mini.
14
Apocalypse
By: James Gareth Lorn Callow
The sky was falling.
Mangon Varvus, Warmaster of the world of Kirkon V
and instigator of the Great Rebellion, looked to the heavens

for an answer, but he could see nothing but death rain from
the dark clouds.
Mangon Varvus roared, angrily, a tentacled arm
armory, grabbing a mighty battle ax in each hand and
ordering his warriors out to meet the envoys of heaven, the
angels he saw, the falling balls of light. For the gods, he had
betrayed his one god, his Emperor. He had answered the
call of the heavens, and now the heavens had betrayed him.
Outside, the ground trembled as the first drop pod
slammed into the muddy dirt. The very earth seemed
to open up and quake, as larger ships landed, releasing
soldiers and tanks. Explosions lit up the night sky, and

entire villages were annihilated by the first salvos of
bombardment. Mangon Varvus checked again, but he saw

only the same.
Art courtesy Rado Javor from Deviant Art
slamming against the wall as he made his way to the
15
More drop pods connected with the land around Mangon Varvuss palace, and
already the first warriors made their way to take the Warmasters head for their own. The
door was kicked down, and Mangon Varvus set eyes on the angels sent to him by heaven.
They wore blood red armor and bristled with weaponry, their golden trimmings making
them shine in the dark light. Mangon Varvus knew he dealt with no ordinary angels.
These that he fought where the angels of death. He knew their insignia, knew them from
a time gone by: these were the Blood Angels. Mangon Varvus stumbled back and his eyes
checked the window again.
The Space Marines advanced into the room, cutting down Varvuss personal
guard. The mutated Warmaster knew there would be no victory this day. He
was alone, abandoned by his people, his heavens, his gods. Deep, within the
furthest reaches of his mind, he heard a throaty laughter, and the same word
- weak - thrown around, and around, and around. Mangon Varvus would
lead his world into glorious defeat. They would die, every last man,
woman and child, of that he had no doubt.
The bombardments continued. The war raged on as
the final pods hit the surface, the final ships delivered their
cargo. Within days, it would be over, and the horns of
victory would sound in every hall of the great battle
barges above. Great war machines opened fire on
the swirling masses of soldiers at their feet.
Craters decorated the land, and the oceans
turned red with blood. Mangon Varvus
knew he had failed. He knew what he had

wrought on his world, his people. He
had wanted peace, final peace in a grim,
dark galaxy of war. He would not have his
peace, his people would not know it, for the

Blood Angels were here.
Apocalypse had come to Kirkon V.

Art courtesy Nalro from Deviant Art
16
Speed Painting Tutorial

By: ChirsSpaceWolves
Painting
When I was a kid in the 80s I started playing

D&D. The group I ran with used miniatures to
do fights. They made it a rule that you had to have
your character painted in order to play. Does this
sound familiar?
My problem was that my characters always
died which led to the creation of a new one and
another Miniature. Sometimes Id go through 2
characters a night. This led to a love of painting.
In one of the booklets that came with a paint
set I bought was a short description of painting
process. I still use it to this day. There is no
real secret to painting a decent miniature in
a reasonable amount of time, so Ill work you
through my process step by step.
Priming
done with the 4th the first is dry allowing you

to take it off set it down and add another. It
sounds like a lot of work but when you get into a
rhythm you actually cut 10-15 minutes off your
priming time. I can do 40 miniatures in around
15 minutes and get complete coverage.
Brushes
Brush selection is as important as the quality of
the paint you use. If your constantly dipping your
brush to cover a part, your brush is too small.
Your brush should hold enough paint to cover
the part your working on without having to dip
multiple times unless its an overly large surface.
Some people dont realize that they are even
wasting time by doing this. The next time youre
painting think about how many times your brush
hits the pot. Youre going to surprise yourself!
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First, clean off your model. No mold lines! Give

it a good prime, a nice even coat is necessary
to a great paint job. Be sure to cover the whole
miniature but not all in one pass. Two to three
coats of light primer will give you a better finish
than one heavy coat. Too heavy on any coat
will pool the primer and remove any fine detail
sculpted into the model.The GW primer is
designed to dry super fast. I recommend it.
To prime I recommend going to your
hardware store and buying some electrical
alligator clips for some medium size wire. Id
say a 12 gauge wire. Then buy some wooden
dowel rod. Put the dowel into the alligator clip
as a handle. You now have a way to prime your
miniatures and get even coverage top to bottom.
The clips come in packs of 4 which is good
because you can prime 4 and by the time your
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17
Paint
Norks Minis is a miniature
commissioning service specializing in
28mm painting and conversions. It is
run by Kevin and Patrick of the Terran

Forge. Both Kevin and Patrick have
been converting and painting miniatures

for quite a long tme.
Their favorite hobby is Warhammer
40,000 and their comissioning service

was established for the sole purpose
of helping you, the gamer. If you head

on over to their site at NorksMinis.
BlogSpot.com, you will find that
the quality of their miniatures are
excellant and their prices cheap. If you

need conversions, painting or terrain
completed, the guys at Norks Minis are

who to turn to!
Your paint needs to be in decent condition. If your paint

is drying on your brush its too thick, add some water
directly to the batch.
Order
My next step is to paint the miniature in a specific order.
First I do the skin, the way I think of it is that
the miniature is getting dressed. Ive already done a
skin tutorial in my W.I.P. so give it a search and youll
find that.
Second, is to do the hair. If the model was naked
youd have it on and sometimes (on dwarfs in particular)
covers 90% of the model. I like getting these two things
done in that order because it defines who the model
is and lets me see a face.
Sometimes it is what dictates
what color the armor is going
to be, if the armor is well
kept or a bit dirty, or even
the clothing/armor color.
I know this sounds silly
and it cant possibly relate to painting fast but if youre
not trying to decide on a palette of colors then youre
moving along with the model.
Build your painting like youd put on clothes.
Start with undershirts, under armor, base clothing,
or whatever your model is dressed in. The Tau Fire
warriors are an excellent example of this as they have
a layer of cloth covered by a layer of armor plating. Do
your cloths first and dont worry about your plates.. if
you get em messy so what. I always do my boots last.
Hit your plates with their color and then give em a
wash. Look at is as free depth. I usually use the same
color wash for the color Im using unless Im going for
a dirty effect. Do your accessories and guns next and at
this point your table ready. A thing to remember about
the washes; let them dry completely before moving on
to another step. Not doing this will ruin the way the
wash puddles and flows detracting from the finish.
Most people reading this will go a step further and

highlight, so I have a FAST way to do that also. My
highlighting is done with a drybrush. I use a similar
technique to my faces except that I only hit the edge.
Any bleed into the rest of the armor is going to be slight
giving a blend effect. Make sure your brush is VERY
dry, you shouldnt see pigment on the actual brush when
you do this. I did 28 Necron warriors in around 35
minutes last night.
Multiply
Add all these steps to multiple miniatures and youre
FLYING, getting done full squads in 3-4 hours at a
time. If you dont have that, tackle fewer models at a
time. Motivation is key to painting. I like to see progress
and half painted miniatures make me sad! If you have
an hour to paint set 4 miniatures
aside for that time.
Remember something, a
good squad is defined by its
command in fantasy, or its
veteran in 40k. He or she is the
one that will make or break a
squad, so pay a small amount of extra attention to this
model. Dont spend 2 hours on it, just pay enough to set
it apart from the rest of the squad. He alone will set the
tone on the table.
My good friend Abe has a saying, In a 40 man
squad of goblins no one can see past the 2nd rank.
Dont spend an insane amount of time on the 37th
goblin your painting as no one cares what he looks
like... THEY CANT SEE HIM! People look at
command squads, not rank and file.
Build your painting like

youd put on clothes.
18
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An Idiot Learns to Airbrush

By: Captain Castus
This year I did something that Ive been meaning to do
for a while; finally get an airbrush and start using it!
The impetus for doing this mainly came from being fed
up of the time it takes to paint tanks by hand. With a
new Guard army on the horizon and Games Workshop
expanding their Super Heavy range it seemed like
a perfect time to take the jump. So, in this months
Apocalypse-themed Astro Mag I thought it would be
appropriate to do an article on the basics of airbrushing.
I will tell you what I learned whilst I started and, who
knows, perhaps inspire a few of you to give it a try too!
Alright, first things first.
What is an Airbrush?
An airbrush is simply a precision air driven paint sprayer.
However, unlike your typical spray can or paint gun,
the airbrush is designed to allow the spray pattern to be
changed from a pencil line to a broad swath. The paint
quantity can be varied from a fine mist to a one pass full
coverage coat.
No matter how careful you are with a conventional
brush, it is not possible to achieve the uniformity in a
thin coat that can easily be achieved with an airbrush.
The paint goes on nearly dry, so that the model can
be handled virtually immediately. The coating is thin
enough such that fine details are not obscured as they
would be by a thick layer of brushed on paint. The paint
never seems to seep under masking so much as brushed
paint does. Plus, a little paint can go a long way with
an airbrush.
This diagram shows the business end of a typical
internally mixed airbrush. Air is injected around a tip
which contains a very sharp needle valve. As the air
rushes past the tip, the pressure drop draws paint from
the tip in the amount regulated by the needle valve and
the flow of air. The paint is atomized by the air flow and
carried along to be deposited on the work piece. There
is another type of airbrush called an externally mixed

airbrush. In this configuration, the paint is ported out
right at the business end of the brush. For small scale
modelling purposes, an internally mixed brush
works better.
There are two common types of internally mixed
airbrush. They are called single action and double
action. The difference is how the needle valve is
controlled. Both types of brush have a button on the
top which admits the air when pressed. On a single
action brush, this is all the button does. The position
of the needle valve and therefore the paint flow is
controlled by a knob at the back of the brush. On a
double action brush, the button also controls the needle
position so that both air and paint flow is regulated by
the same button. Pressing the button admits air, pulling
it back pulls back the needle and admits more paint.
It should be noted that the air valve typically does
not allow the amount of air to be regulated to any great
degree. It is either on or off. Air flow can be regulated
by setting the pressure on the air line. More air will
create a bigger pressure differential and more paint will
be drawn out of the brush. Thicker paints require more
air to make them flow. If you are really interested in fine
work, then the pressure needs to be turned down.
The coverage of the airbrush is determined by the
amount of paint dispensed and the distance between
the brush and the work. The paint pattern expands in a
cone, so that to paint a very fine line, the brush must be
held right up to the work and the paint flow rate must
be low. To cover a larger area, the needle is pulled way
back to allow more paint to flow and the brush is held

back from the work. If the brush is held way back and
only a small amount of paint is allowed to flow, the
surface will just be dusted.
Airbrushes can have different tip sizes. They are
usually graded fine, medium and large. A medium tip is
fine for all but the most exacting work.
Paint is held in various airbrushes in different ways,
but there are three major methods; a top paint cup, a
bottom or side paint cup or a paint bottle. A top cup
model dispenses paint the easiest as the paint is gravity
fed and the paint feed tube doesnt have to be filled.
However, once you put some paint in the cup, you cant
set the brush down without spilling the paint!
Propellants
An airbrush is a compressed air driven device, so in
order to use it you need a source of air. All you really
need is a source of clean, reasonably dry air regulated
at around 20-40 psi. There are 2 conventional ways of
achieving this:
1 Cans of compressed air.
The main advantage of this method is cost. A single
can of air from GW for their spray gun, for example,
costing 5 ($8.25 US). The main disadvantages
of cans are:
They are prone to running out when you least
expect it (and dont last long...)
The pressure drops as the can gets cold and being
an aerosol this happens quite quickly (putting the
can in warm water while you spray keeps pressure
up)
Although individually cheap if you plan on
spraying a lot the cost still mounts up
2 An air compressor.
The most usual type used for this purpose is a single
piston air compressor. You need one with a regulator
and pressure gauge (so you can adjust the pressure)
20
and a water trap to take moisture out of the airline

(otherwise every so often the brush will burp and
splash water on your work!). The main disadvantage
of an air compressor is, of course, the initial cost,
which can be anything up to 200 ($325 US). Cheaper
and still sufficient quality alternatives are available
however I managed to pick one up complete with 2
air brushes 75 ($120 US) and it works great!
Health and Safety

When you use an airbrush (or any paint sprayer for that
matter) you expel solvents and paint particles into the
air. Unless you protect yourself in some way, you will
end up breathing this stuff in. None of it is any good
for you Trust me, Im a Doctor! All of the methods
that you can use to protect yourself are either expensive,
inconvenient or uncomfortable, but you should
do something. In any case, always work in a well
ventilated area.
Masks. You should invest some money to buy a

good quality dual filter mask. Any decent DIY store
should have them. These are somewhat uncomfortable
to wear, but you get used to them. They do an excellent
job in filtering out the paint particles and a good job in
filtering out the solvents. The masks filter solvents with
an activated charcoal layer in the filters. These filters
have limited life and they will load up by themselves on
moisture extracted from the air. Change the filters often
and keep the mask in a sealed freezer bag when it is not
in use. Generally speaking acrylic paints (which most of
us use I guess) are much less toxic than oil paints, but
the same principles apply still. You may be able to get
away with a cheap painters mask (to filter large paint
particles only) with good ventilation when using acrylic
paints But better safe than sorry!
Work Outdoors. You get real good ventilation out
of doors, but this usually limits your available painting
time to daylight and nice weather. Its cheap though!
Even outside you should wear a good mask anyway.
Paint
Well An airbrush is pretty useless without paint
There are two main types of paint that can be used
Acrylics and Oils
Oil based paints are a clear performance winner
(better coverage, consistency, adhesion and paint
control) but the acrylic paints are a clear safety winner
(no nasty solvents) and are far easier to clean. For most
applications, the acrylic based paints work fine, for the
most exacting work, professionals apparently prefer oils.
All Citadel paints are acrylics And the vast majority
of wargamers use acrylic paint for their minis
Therefore I shall only talk about acrylics in any detail
Acrylics require thinning to be used in an airbrush
which can cause difficulties for the beginner. As far as I
can make out there is no simple recipe for doing this
It is a matter of experience and depends on what you
plan to do with the paint. There are specific thinners
available on the market, which are simple to use but
cost money. A cheaper alternative is simply to use water
and a drop of washing-up liquid. Why the washing -up
liquid?! Well Im told that the detergent lowers the
surface tension of the droplets so that the paint/water
doesnt cling to itself and covers better without forming
droplets on the surface of the model That sounds
convincing enough for me to do the same!
The consistency to aim for is a milky consistency,
i.e. much thinner than you would usually use when
painting with a brush. I have found that when using
Vallejo Game Colour the following mix
has worked well:
75% paint
25% water
Plus a drop or two of washing-up liquid
E.g. for the Vallejo dropper bottles a small batch
would be:
60 drops of paint
20 drops of water
A drop of washing-up liquid
With a little experimentation and trial and
(the unfortunately inevitable!) error youll soon find
the right mix.
It is vitally important to thoroughly mix acrylics

prior to any use as the pigment settles very rapidly.
Most of you will recognise the fact that the bottom
of a pot is always thicker than the top which is a
combination of this effect and evaporation. Stirring is
the best method of mixing for airbrushes as shaking
can, Im told, introduce bubbles into the paint that
can cause spattering. That said, I mix by shaking in
empty GW paint pots and have had no problems. So
remember not to throw yours away They might be
useful!!
Which brand of paint to use?
Ive heard from more than one source that Citadel

paints clog airbrushes and are a nightmare to use. This
is, I think, the main reason GW went for an externally
mixed spray-gun rather than a proper airbrush Their
paints couldnt handle it!
What are the alternatives?
Well I use Vallejo. Ive heard them recommended

from various people. They produce two suitable ranges,
Game Colour and Model Air, and a specific thinner
too. There are other companies that sell suitable paints,
e.g. Tamiya and Testors. So the range of colours
available is huge! You should be able to find suitable
colour matches for the rest of your army. And if you find
a way of thinning GW paints so that they work then
please let us all know!!
But why do I need an airbrush?!
You may think that the use of an airbrush wont give you
much more than a way of painting large areas well and
quickly. In a sense this is the first (and for many people,
the main) reason to use one. And a good reason too
Would you want to paint a titan by hand?!! But it is not
the only reason There are several techniques that can
only be done well with an airbrush... Many camouflage
patterns, stippling/mottling, airbrushed blending, high
quality weathering etc... It can add to a range of skills
rather than being a complete replacement... For some
examples take a look at the excellent Forge World Model
Masterclass books.
An Example
As this was an Apocalypse themed edition I thought it

would be good to show how an airbrush can give you
quick, simple and effective results when painting a large
model Heres how I did a snow-themed tricolour
camouflage on a Shadowsword for my Macragge PDF
1 After priming the model (I used a grey primer)
apply the base colour. Apply the lightest colour first,
as itll be harder to cover a lighter colour over a prior
darker one. I masked the metal tracks and sponsons,
although this probably isnt necessary as these will be
hand painted later with metallic paint anyway.
2 Now apply the first camouflage mask. I just use

normal masking tape. It can be a little fiddly, but all
you need is some scissors to cut the desired shapes
and a little time/patience. I do it whilst watching TV!
Remember You are applying the tape where you want
the colour to remain. Sounds obvious, but its something
you need to remember!
3 Now simply spray with your second colour.
4 Then apply the second mask in the same manner as

the first.
5 Then spray you third colour.
6 And remove all the tape!
7 Simply painting the metalwork quickly makes it
look more like a tank
8 After detailing and weathering itll soon fit in with
the rest of the army
So, there you have it! I hope you enjoyed the article
and are inspired to have a try yourself. If you have any
questions or problems then just log-in to astronomican.
com and well do our best to help you out!
~ Many thanks go to Gareth for giving me advice whilst getting
started. You were a great help! Also thanks to many of the online
sources and references that I found very useful, particularly George
Schreyer. ~
22
8
TActica
Trooper Dale of the Cadian12th ducked low as the heavy bolter

opened fire, barely escaping being blown in half by the powerful
rounds. Corporal Zayger was not as lucky, the grim-faced man
being ripped apart in a hail of powerful rounds.
Plant the charges! Sergeant Gath cried out, breaking cover
from behind the smoking Chimera to break for the massive
renegade Baneblade, Blade Squad, prime your meltas!
The rest of Gaths team followed behind, and soon there
were seven charges planted on the hull of the Baneblade. They
exploded as one, hot magma seeping into the vehicle.
Its going nova! someone shouted, Critical reaction!
Confirmed! Trooper Dale responded, I got a six!
Roger, Sergeant Gath said through gritted teeth... Brace
for shrapnel!
Art courtesy Machine Gun Joe Joe from Deviant Art
Imperial Guard: Veterans

Ahem, yes. If youre an Imperial Guard player,
then the release of the new codex this past May
probably had you filled with joyous glee, the kind
you can only feel on Christmas morning, when
your eyes set on the array of presents under the
tree and you know theyre all for you. Or on the
day new rules and models come out!
With the arrival of the Imperial Guard:
Fifth Edition codex, Imperial Guard players
everywhere now have plenty of new tricks up
their sleeves. AP3 Hell-guns, more than a half
dozen new tanks and even death from above
from squadrons of Basilisks and Valkyries are all
lovely, to be sure. But nothing is as lovely as the
new troops choice in the Imperial Guard codex:
the Veterans.
Imperial Guard Veterans used to be an
Elites choice, and they were, in a word, meh.
They were good, yes, but not great, and they

could never hope to be as useful as a platoon of
regular Guardsmen, or a sturdy Leman Russ.
Thats all changed in the new edition, though.
With the new doctrines available to the Veterans,
they can perform
a variety of tasks
and maneuvers that
can prove infinitely
more helpful than
giving fancy orders
to a group of guys
hiding behind
sandbags. Whether
your Veterans are
taking Carapace
armor and plasma guns to rip apart the enemys
heavy infantry or camo-cloaks and sniper rifles
to pick apart the foes HQ from afar, they will
be sure to provide much-needed expertise to a
situation when BS3 Lasguns simply wont suffice.

Nothing, however, will prove to be more deadly
than Veterans with the third doctrine available
to them demolitions. This squad upgrade gives
every soldier in the team Melta-bombs, as well as
outfitting one with a demolition charge but the
charge is just a bonus!
Because in fifth edition all attacks in a melee
are counted against a
vehicles rear armor,
and Melta-bombs
count as a S8+2D6
attack in an assault,
no vehicle is ever
really safe! Even
Land Raiders have
something to fear
when you put your
Veterans down on the
table. Land Raiders, that is... and super-heavies.
The most common super-heavy vehicle is the
Baneblade, or one of its variants. They average
about 12 AV for their rear armor. That means a
Your opponent will curse

your Veterans and curse you for
bringing them along.
23
Veteran with Melta-bombs only needs a 2 and a 3 in an

assault to penetrate it! Of course, I know what youre
thinking: How am I going to get a handful of 5+ Sv
guys into base contact with a Baneblade? Yeah, Id be
wondering the same thing, but its not as challenging
as it looks. In an Apocalypse game, theres sure to be
plenty of terrain, and plenty of models. The trick is
giving your guys something to get to the enemy. This
can be done two ways: either by way of a deep-striking
Valkyrie, or a Chimera. I highly recommend the latter.
A single Chimera amidst your fleet of armor and bodies
isnt very intimidating, but dropping a Valkyrie next to
your opponents precious super-heavies is just ASKING
to get shot at.
Now, the trick is patience. Dont leave your
Chimera out in the open. Unless you have multiple
threats like it, your opponent wont hesitate to blow
apart your transport if they can see it, and in a game of
Apocalypse, they will have something to blow it apart
with. Advance through cover. Keep your vehicle safe.
When you get to the enemy, make every effort to reach
their vehicle as quickly as humanly possible. When you
do assault, you should have ten Melta-bombs to work

with. Assuming seven of these penetrate, you have an
almost guaranteed chance of killing the super-heavy
or at least rendering it useless. Once your guys are there,
dont hold out hopes of them surviving. The enemy
will react immediately to them, either to protect the
super-heavy from another round of Melta-bombs, or to
avenge his dead tank. If possible position the Chimera
in such a position that your disembarking troops get
cover; or better yet, position it so that it impedes the
advancement of enemy soldiers. If your soldiers manage
to survive killing the super-heavy, plunge them deeper
into enemy lines.
The odds of the Veterans getting back to your side
of the field safely to take up firing positions are slim to
none; but if they have killed a super-heavy then theyve
already made more than double their cost back to you.
They should still have their Demolition Charge, unless
you used it to get them to the super-heavy, so this
would be a good time to use it. For special weapons, I
recommend Meltaguns and Flamers; two Meltas and
one Flamer works well in my experience. Cut your
Art courtesy Lathander1987 from Deviant Art
way through enemy troops if those are nearby. The

Demolition Charge can take out an entire squad in one
go if youre lucky. If you have a reasonable amount of
soldiers left, however, (at least half the squad) ignore
the enemy soldiers and head for the next vehicle. You
still have Melta weaponry, and so no vehicle is truly
safe. If the squad is low in number dont go for another
super-heavy, unless its already dying as you probably
wont be able to finish it off, but instead go for normal
vehicles, things like camping basilisks or whirlwinds.
Your opponent will curse your Veterans and curse you
for bringing them along. Hopefully, by the time your
squad is done a super-heavy, along with many enemy
soldiers, will have been removed from the table; or at
least left on it as smoldering wrecks.
Cost of a fully-kitted out veterans squad? 135
points. Cost of an armored chimera to get them there?
70 points. Cost of blowing up a super-heavy with a
handful of Guardsmen? Priceless. There are some things
points cant buy. For everything else, there are Meltabombs.
Art courtesy linkingthat from Deviant Art
24
Art courtesy MeMyMine from Deviant Art
By: David Kharn the Betrayer Michie

It was finally time.
The gates to the throne room opened and the
supplicants filed in and took their places around the
empty throne.
They started to sweat as they all knew that one of
them would have to ask the question and this generally
meant that a sacrifice would be made to the Dark Gods
of Dessert.
Kharn the Betrayer, Avatar of the Custard Gods
appeared in the doorway to the inner chamber. His bulk
filled the space blocking out the light.
Striding to the empty throne he sat down heavily
and glared at the three Astro posters.
Well ask the question and then I shall kill one of
you, as is my due bellowed Kharn.
A squeaky voice replied Oh great and merciful
purveyor of the third course we want to understand the
use of Daemons in 40k
Kharn took off his helmet and treated them to his
best smile, in the warp a kitten died.
Sit back and listen for I am about to impart the
wisdom of the Dark Pudding Gods
Let us begin
25
Khorne Daemon Tactics for Fifth Edition 40k

By: David Kharn the Betrayer Michie
Now this is written from the point of view of Khorne, I
think you should write from experience but some of this
can be applied to other demonic troops as well. Its up to
you to filter out what you need and disregard what you
dont want.
First you dont start with anything on the table and
deepstrike the entire army. This can be a bonus but it
can also be a very, very bad thing.
Splitting your army means that you need to think
hard what and more importantly where you want your
troops to arrive.
Personally I take large units of twenty and split
them slightly unevenly over the two parts of the army.
Dont take anything fancy just take lots of it. There is
a saying that quantity has its own quality. Your stuff
is quite expensive so why be outnumbered more than
you should be. You can be quite sneaky and use smaller
units in your second wave as any player worth their salt
is not going to bother about the Daemons that cant
charge this turn.
I personally dont bother with icons as I like the
randomness and with the new rules on deepstrike it is
quite unlikely that you will loose any units. If you do
then just shrug and curse the fickle gods of Chaos.
I prefer to pick a flank and load it up with units,
try and bring at least 40 daemons in the first wave and
space them out when you run. I also bring in something
big like a Greater Daemon just to give them something
hard to fire at. Nothing says shoot me like a Greater
Daemon of Khorne. Only in larger games is this
viable. But remember to run hide it as well, make them
work for every shot they take.
Pick the point as far away from the multitude of
heavy weapons your opponent has fielded and then
remember to run them into cover. No point in giving
them the opportunity to open up with all those nice
heavy bolters they have bought just for you.
Even under fifth if they cant see you they cant

shoot you. So you are there lurking around and looking
red and menacing. Now you have to get into hand to
hand. There are a couple of ways of doing this but if you
have planned right you will be within charge distance of
something squishy.
Use the fast stuff like the Greater Daemon or
chariots (yes chariots in 40k) to tie up the dangerous
units and charge whatever you have left from into
anything close to you.
Three attacks on the charge with a strength five
power weapon will ruin anybodys day. This is just the
basic Bloodletter but that should be the main part
of you tactic. Get into hand to hand and slaughter
anything that comes close.
Even orks will suffer, you have to break a unit first
26
time as you really cant survive too many rounds of

combat. A five up save isnt much good unless they have
nothing left to hit you with.
A demonic army is all about patience and placing.
You can distract them with the big scary stuff but in the
end its the troops that are going to do the dirty work
and win you the battle. Always think of the mission and
not just killing stuff, although that is fun.
The Big stuff like Greater Daemons and Princes
should be used to kill vehicles and any hard as nails
characters that are wandering about in small retinues
or on their own. Remember thou are Mortal, actually
youre not but Thou can be pulled down and kicked
to death by large groups. Use the hordes to kill their
hordes and single out the big stuff to kill with your big
stuff. There, that is simple enough even for an Ork.
You wont find me discussing any lists here as I never do, this is just for tactics
but here is a run down of some of the other Daemons:
Nurgle, hard as nails but slow as slugs.
Slannash, fragile yet satisfying.
Tzeench, short range yet bad at close combat. (hmm big weakness here)
Khorne, limited shooting but brutal in combat.
Now I play a mono list, can you guess which?
But some people mix the gods, shame on you but if you have to look to the
strengths and cover the weaknesses keep it simple. Lots of one is better than many
of lots. I mean that take enough of one type to get the job done and dont get too
fancy. Err I think that makes sense. The more things you plan the more that can
go wrong.
So to summarise, pick your list and split it, being very sneaky, redundancy is
the key. Bring your units near cover and hopefully within charge range next turn.
Dont be afraid to give your opponent a threat to fire at. Just make sure its a big
scary hard as nails one. Dont spread out all over the board, this is a failing some
Daemon players do. You need local superiority to overwhelm their forces in an area.
Hide hide and hide some more. Then kill everything within reach paying
special attention to any heavy weapons. You will take losses but you need to get
close. You just have to remember you can lessen the blow by hiding.
Practice practice and more practice thats my tip for all players.
In my book there is no such thing as an advanced player as we should all be
learning and adapting so in a sense we are all new players.
The worst thing I have seen in my decades of playing is people who refuse to
learn anything new. I enjoy people pulling a new tactic on me as I can learn from it.
You may beat me but never the same way twice.
Master the little things and the big things will look after themselves....
The mission is what will win you the game, normally I dont advocate sacrificial
troops but their only daemons and Khorne does not care where the blood flows
from just that it does.
Force your opponent to react to you, this is always this is one of my main
tactics. Daemons are scary to play against as you never know where they will
turn up.
Now said Kharn as he licked his lips. Hands up for Custard.....
(Kharn proud owner of 101 Bloodletters, just like the film)
27
By: Kevin Arkaedin Fronczak
Rules Q&A
Games Workshop has always stated that

Warhammer 40k was never meant for tournament
play and occasionally (ok, very often) the rules
are not clear and cause some chaos in games. Of
course GWs coveted Golden Rule states that
you should just roll off for it, but many times it
isnt a good solution. More hardened players
want some closure as to why a rule is stated that
way and what it is intended to be. Plus, you will
always have two or more sides to an argument,
both believing they are correct (and both have
great evidence to support their claims). We
also know that GW cant exactly answer every
question we have, so thats why Im writing this
little FAQ: to help potentially make games run
much smoother.
This FAQ is totally unofficial and not
endorsed by Games Workshop at all. You may
not agree with the answers in here, thats fine,
but I have found questions all over the internet
and taken the best answers and placed them
in here. Best as in most popular and logical
answer I could find. If this helps make your
games go smoother then Im happy and did
my job correctly. If you think this is a load of
rubbish then thats cool too, I hate some of the
answers in here because I disagree with them,
but I know all the guys I play with will use these
answers because it speeds up a game that is
meant, at its core, to be fun. Enough with the
small talk, onto the questions!
Q: A drop pod, when the doors are opened, is
quite large. When measuring for either explosion

or disembarking, do you measure from the
extended doors or the base of the drop pod itself?
A: Disembarking and explosions are both

measured from the hull of the Drop Pod
Q: The new Imperial Guard codex says the
priests eviscerator counts as a powerfist that rolls

an extra die for armor penetration. Does this
mean he gets +1 attack from having it and his

laspistol?
A: Models with an Eviscerator do not gain
an extra attack for having two close combat

weapons.
Q: Can Lesser Demons hold objectives since
in the back of the CSM Codex it says: Units

of Summoned Lesser Demons do not use up
any force organization chart selection, but are
otherwise treated as a Troops unit.
A: A unit of Summoned Lesser Demons are a
Troops choice for a Chaos Space Marine army

but they take up zero out of the six available
slots instead of one like a typical Troops choice.
Therefore they count as scoring units and can
hold objectives, but do not take up a Force
Organizational slot.
Q: If a 5-man squad of snipers causes 5 un-saved

wounds on a unit, do they take 5 pinning checks
(one for each weapon that caused an unsaved
wound) or one pinning check for the whole unit
firing?
A: You take a pinning check for each weapon
that caused an unsaved wound. Therefore, in

this case, you would take 5 pinning checks total
(brutal!).
Q: If a Space Marine Librarian attached to a

unit uses the Gate of Infinity power and gets
a Delayed result on the mishap table, what
happens?
A: The unit and Librarian are placed in reserve
and will arrive again (on a reserves roll) using the

Deep Strike special rule.
Q: Can a unit move directly underneath a

skimmer or jetbike?
A: No. You have to be at least 1 away from
its base at all times, bar the assault phase. If

28
you were allowed to move

underneath a skimmer
or jetbike, it would be
impossible to assault (since
you wont ever be able to
come in contact with it)!
Q: A melta weapon with blast
(Devil Dog) shoots a vehicle. The target spot is

over the vehicle and under half range, but scatters
so the hole is still over the vehicle but outside
of half range. Is the range for the melta rule
determined from distance to target or distance to
where the shot lands?
A: It is determined by the distance to the target,

so you get that precious extra D6!
Q: A tank, tank shocks a unit that has a
Lascannon or similarly damaging weapon within

it. The model is granted an automatic hit per
the rules. Can the Tank be granted a cover save
through use of a Kustom Force Field or similar
piece of wargear?
A: Yes, the vehicle will get a cover save if the
attack is from a shooting weapon, but it will not

receive a cover save if it is from a close-combat
weapon.
Q: Can a vehicle and its occupants shoot at

different targets?
A: Yep!
All the questions and answers have been
taken from Terran Forge, DakkaDakka, and
Warseer and reproduced here with what we
considered the best answer. For more rules
queries, you can head on over to Terran Forge
and check out their Friday FAQ. They try to
answer every question they receive there as
accurately and concisely as they can so its worth
checking them out (and emailing your question
to!).
The Harlequin's Dance

I twist and turn, my slender body a pirouette of pinstripe
and cloth as I dance the dance of death.
My body moves faster than the human eye can
track, and I am untouched as I weave through the
grassy field to close in with my foes, the men and
women charged with fighting the futile fight. They
know that they will meet only death once we reach their
lines, that they and however many more it takes shall
fall before the day is done. What they do not know is
that we spare them from a fate worse than death, the
horrors they might awaken if their colony continues.
With their lives they pay for the continued existence of
the rest of the this planet, this living tomb. Marosk IV,
they call it.
A swirling blur of pink, yellow and blue is the only
thing visible to the soldiers, the setting sun a mass of
orange flame behind them, reflecting in their eyes and
blinding them. The wheat sways calmly in the evening
breeze, with streaks of las-fire cutting through it like a
farmers sickle. The wide-open fields of this world offer
us no cover, no comfort, but we fight in them regardless,
that our dance might be as wide as the stretching
plains permit. We are at home in the field, without the
confines of walls or structures. We are free.
My diamond-checkered costume is a wave, the blue
stripes lost to the pink shapes, which in turn are lost to
the yellow fabric. A one piece suit, the costume sports a
short skirt which flaps as I move, stockings covering the
entirety of my legs. My face is streaked with white and
black and red, the colors of the jester, and no skin on my
body is uncovered, be it by make up or cloth or hair. My
smile is key, most important. My character is blade, the
righteousness of death, and my smile is the symbol of
approaching demise, the symbol of mischievous malice,
fatal foolishness.
My black boots bob up and down, connecting
with dirt and air alike. Beside me, my brothers and
sisters are the same; a blur of motion, a jester of the
Laughing God. The troupe moves as one, rehearsed
and synchronized, our fatal march through the

wheat field a well-choreographed performance
for an audience of none. To my left I see Alain
contort like no other, his long stockings barely
visible as his nimble legs twist and leap into
the fray. He is the Troupe Master; he is mentor,
director, and our moves are in step with his. His
shimmering blade is our beacon, and as it cuts into
the first soldier with graceful precision, I feel my
heart thump excitedly, the closest human stumbling
back as I fall upon him.
Show time.
I sink my dagger into his heart. It pierces crimson
armor and draws crimson liquid, and the son of crimson
stutters as he looks into my eyes. A panicked shriek
reaches my ears as the man collapses, my blade
already ripped free and into the stomach of a
second. I spin and twist, flipping over my
second victim and into the midst of three
more. A graceful pirouette and I am
free, a head on the ground behind
me. My brothers and sisters
move in harmony
with me
Art courtesy R7ll from Deviant Art
29
as we dance through the soldiers, a dozen dead and a

human strikes him across the thigh. Kanens plight is
dozen more soon to be damned. We are perfection, we
my cue, and I weave to him, kicking out against the
are beauty of the art. There is an exquisite gracefulness
unfortunate Monkeigh.
to our every move that gives a sense of serenity to the
The toe of my boot connects with the soldiers
bloodshed, a feeling
forehead, the heel slamming
of calmed peace. It
into his nose, caving in
is just a show, just
the mans skull with
an act. A lethal,
a torrent of blood.
fatal, mindHe staggers back as
numbingly fast
I turn my attention
act.
elsewhere, cutting deep
I take center
into another soldier and
stage, shifting
feeling her warm blood
into the middle of
lap against my white face,
the crowd. By now
mixing with the paint and
the air is hot and
dripping down my cheek.
burnt, arid with the
Kanen is already gone,
scent of death. The
recovered from his wound,
remaining soldiers
and I know fortune smiles
begin to turn, but
on him this day.
all they achieve
Soon the dance of
is to shift the
death is over, and we
stage. The
five stand victoriously
show must
amongst piles of the
go on, and
dead, ever-moving as
the Troupe
the true dance begins
follows
under the Laughing
where its
Gods watching gaze.
victims go,
I step to the left,
meeting
Reaven steps to the
them with
right. We spin close
unrelenting
to one another, backferocity.
to-back, and then break
Down-left
away. She is Seer, and she
Reavens coil
plays Fate, but it is I who
of wire embeds
am honored this day, for I am
itself deep
the whole of the Eldar. A nimble
within a womans
actress, I play the lead and take
Art courtesy opticneuralinterface from Deviant Art
stomach, tearing
the center, matching the steely gaze of
out her entrails and
Death with unflinching resoluteness. Kanen
leaving her to sputter
moves closer, and Death and I touch, briefly, our
weakly before becoming
bodies brushing against each other, swaying through
swallowed by the ever-moving melee.
the wheat, but only for the briefest moment. I move
Up-center Kanen misses a step and gasps out as a lucky
away again, close towards Fate, my flirt with damnation
in the past. Fate takes my hands in hers and we twist

together, breaking apart as we move close to a twitching
soldier.
Fates blade slices through the soldiers back, cutting
a thin line all along his shirt. Blood begins to drip from
the wound, pouring out and bathing the beige wheat
red as our dance continues, the motion unnoticed.
Soon, Tesa and I meet. Tesa plays the Laughing God
himself, swift and cunning, and he loops towards me,
the Laughing God coming to meet his children, but
Fate intercepts and I am away once more. Death looms
behind me as I finish our dance, flipping through the air
gracefully and landing beside the Laughing God. I rise,
slowly, and Death stops a foot away from me, Fate at his
side. A foot away, Fate and Death stand together as one,
gazing down at the Laughing God and his Eldar. The
four of us slowly turn, as one, to our Troupe Master,
where he stands center-stage, eying us carefully. He
nods, slowly, and we break apart, elated, just in time to
hear the rumbling of footsteps and creaking of treads.
Our dance concluded, we turn as one to face the
Monkeigh. In their number, there are six of them to
every one of us, and astride them is a tank, bristling
with weaponry on each side and flattening the strands
of wheat it plows through as a fish of many unique fins
might appear in the ocean, pushing water aside with
each motion.
As one the Monkeigh open fire on us. Kanen is
struck in the chest, unable to move fast enough, his leg
still marred from combat. His lifeless body crumples
to the ground as the rest of us disperse. Smoke billows
from the holes in his body, wisping into the air, and
so it was that on a cool summers night in a white field
of wheat the black spirit of Death did meet its end.
Kanens body slumps beside a rock gracelessly, his act
concluded, his body stiff, and I realize the ominous
reality: Death is dead.
As my mind contemplates the ill omen of such
a thing, my hands contemplate another their next
target, their next victim, as they strike out, blades kept
close by slender fingers. Center stage, Alain rips into
the Monkeigh officer with a vicious thrust. Down right,
Tesas coil kisses a man on the cheek, ripping into his
skull and shearing apart his brains.
30
I dance gracefully, nimbly, towards the tank. It

is useless to the Monkeigh when the show comes to
them, and so it is that my dance step is unimpaired by
the vehicle. I perform perfectly and famously, claiming
the life of another of the humans with a sharp kick
to the chin, symbolic of the swift retaliation of our
strike to the mundane deliberations of the treacherous
Monkeigh. The human numbers dwindle until soon,
there are few left, and then none at all, our deadly act at
its penultimate, the finale before the curtain call.
She is the last one, and my blade rips into her heart.
We stand there, still, for a long moment. Her mouth is
open in pain as she leans against me, gasping for breath
she will not get. Around us, it begins to grow dark, the
breeze fading. The Monkeigh tries to say something,
attempts to purse her lips that I might hear
her dying words, but it is not my place to
console the enemy. I tear the blade free of
her breast and she topples, lifelessly, to the
ground.
Her body connects the grassy dirt with
a thud, and this thud is followed by many
more. Bewildered and confused, I cast a
look of skepticism to my Troupe Master,
only to be met by an equally baffled
expression from beneath his crescent mask.
The ground rumbles and thunders, and
stalks of wheat are thrown aside in clumps
as the very core of the world seems to give
way and collapse beneath the weight of the ugly death
that mars its beautiful surface. I hear Tesa shriek as she
falls, falls down to her death below, as the dirt beneath
her feet disintegrates, and I know soon that the stage
will change.
An eerie howling rushes past my ears, like the
whispers of all the Laughing God's children before
us moaning in an agonizing softness, their very souls
pounding on their crypts as their dead lungs gasp for
air, but I know that this howling is not the wail of the
dead, for I have heard this howling before, and it is
not the cry of the fallen. It is something much worse.
The very sky begins to darken as if with anger, and
a calming sense of dread befalls me as the moaning
grows louder, soon joined by metallic creaks and groans,
a clawing sound of metal on rock. The sun sets, the

curtain closes. Fade to black. And then the curtain
opens again, to reveal a new set; a new horror.
A metallic limb as black as the cold heart of the
Mon'keigh's corpse-god rises from a shallow, marshy
grave, popping out of the ground with a shocking
suddenness. It is followed by a dull, dark, metal skull,
its green eyes empty and merciless, the dank embrace of
mud and stone having done nothing to tarnish its hatred
over the last forty millennia. I reflexively take a step
back, closer to my troupe, further away from the steely,
uncaring audience emerging from the ground.
The thing pulls its legs out of the ashen ground
and rises to a full stand, a creaking, mechanical, very
much alive and awoken abomination. Its skeletal frame
metal on stone and dirt, and the abominations turn, as

one, to face us. They raise their rifles, their faces contort
into what could only have been the equivalent of the
grim reaper's own little smile. Then they advanced.
Back-to-back with my remaining troupe members,
I wait. I draw my breath, I ready my blade, and I wait.
I wait as the slow creaking draws closer, as the army
of the dead makes its way to us, as the hideous forms
dance under moonlit shadows, illuminated only be the
sickly green lightning that electrifies the unforgiving
sky.
In the distance, hundreds. A stone's throw away,
dozens.
Twisting contraptions of death are all that I can see,
as far as the eye can gather, the metallic beasts in their
various forms, come back from their eternal
slumber to wreak their pained vengeance on
the galaxy again, and I know that I shall put
on the dance of death once more this night.
I tense, as they draw near.
Apocalypse has come to Marosk IV.
I am ready. Tonight, I will bring
lethal beauty before the deathly march of
the Necrons. Tonight will be the greatest
performance of my life.
My name is Amanal Cosair, and I am a
Harlequin.
Kanens body slumps beside a rock

gracelessly, his act concluded, his body
stiff, and I realize the ominous reality:
Death is dead.
an incarnation of its burning loathing, its quest to end
life. Its own hollow death and encasement in such a
grotesque form. My eyes flicker about to see dozens
of the same thing, over and over. They rise from the
ground like blades of grass, popping up throughout
the wheat field, the crops and grasses withering and
dying as they came into contact with the rising doombringers. Massive rifles pulse green with energies
unbeknownst to my troupe, horrific technologies buried
deep within the darkest reaches of the Black Library.
The risen begin to creak and clack, stretching their
limbs with unfamiliar motions, the cracks of their metal
extremities like the cracks of bones in a dying thing.
Elsewhere, off in the distance, screams can be heard,
the sounds of combat, the sounds of marching feet,
31
ISSUE 6:
Next Issue
October 2009
Pre-Heresy/Heresy
If you are interested in submitting an

article, visit mag.astronomican.com for
detailed instructions. Remember, this is a
fanzine by hobbyists, for hobbyists so your
articles are more than welcome!
Disclaimer
This fanzine is completely unofficial and in no way endorsed by Games
Workshop Limited.
Adeptus Astartes, Blood Angels, Bloodquest, Cadian, Catachan,
the Chaos devices, Cityfight, the Chaos logo, Citadel, Citadel Device,
Codex, Daemonhunters, Dark Angels, Dark Eldar, Eavy Metal, Eldar,
Eldar symbol devices, Eye of Terror, Fire Warrior, Forge World, Games
Workshop, Games Workshop logo, Genestealer, Golden Demon,
Gorkamorka, Great Unclean One, Inquisitor, the Inquisitor logo, the
Inquisitor device, Inquisitor:Conspiracies, Keeper of Secrets, Khorne,
Kroot, Lord of Change, Necron, Nurgle, Ork, Ork skull devices, Sisters of
Battle, Slaanesh, Space Hulk, Space Marine, Space Marine chapters, Space
Marine chapter logos, Tau, the Tau caste designations, Tyranid, Tyrannid,
Tzeentch, Ultramarines, Warhammer, Warhammer 40k Device, White
Dwarf, the White Dwarf logo, and all associated marks, names, races, race
insignia, characters, vehicles, locations, units, illustrations and images from
the Warhammer 40,000 universe are either , TM and/or Copyright
Games Workshop Ltd 2000-2008, variably registered in the UK and other
countries around the world. Used without permission. No challenge to their
status intended. All Rights Reserved to their respective owners.
32
Art courtesy Raistlinuk from Deviant Art

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Check out Mays Datasheet

Contest Winners on page 1.

The Beginning of the End, Apocalypse!

Thank you to all of the DeviantArt

Apocalypse - Issue 5 - July 2009

Behind the Lines

Foam-core Fortifications for 40K

17 Speed Painting Tutorial

20 An Idiot Learns to Airbrush

Khorne Demon Tactica

Apocalypse - Issue 5 - July 2009

Apocalypse Datasheet Contest

having four categories worth ten points each

The Datasheet competition was an incredibly fun

If you want to read on what each category was

competition to run and all the entries that came

in were pretty great. I know Ill use a few of the

from Captain Kellen of Astronomican. Just a

simple idea, but it intrigued me so I made two

branches to it: one for The Astro Mag and one

the mags version began pouring in, I realized

to go with it which is the reason I set up the

Donations page on the Astro Mag blog. We

and two bonus categories worth five points each.

link to the original post on our blog. When we

creative, original and had absolutely stunning

datasheets out (you can

click the link next to them

to download all the entries

or you can follow this link) I

just want to say thank you to all

who donated and especially to all of the people

rules. I believe some of my comments when I

head on over and

check the winning

ended up raising enough money to give our first

the Games Workshop store and our second prize

should mention that Farskit also won a

Astronomican forums competition as

Judging this competition was

certainly tough and even tougher was coming

many people to gather their input, I decided on

Apocalypse - Issue 5 - July 2009

Click here to download Datasheet

#1 Lamachand Sonic Tank Formation

Apocalypse - Issue 5 - July 2009

Click here to download Datasheet

nn Points Efectiveness: 29/30

nn Picture Quality: 13/15

Fun to use, interesting rules which are

Apocalypse - Issue 5 - July 2009

Click here to download Datasheet

#3 Eldar Storm Serpent

It really befits the Eldar to go to such

Apocalypse - Issue 5 - July 2009

Click here to download Datasheet

#4 Magnus the Red

This is how Magnus should be.

Apocalypse - Issue 5 - July 2009

Behind the Lines

came to rest on the target: an Eldar missile silo.

Ok, were out of here.

its thick armour. The Phantom began to move, and

impacted against Vanquos chainfist, but to no avail.