Future Trends > A/W 17/18 > The Vision

NOCTURNE A/W 17/18

Stephanie Jung

CONTEXT

In a n a ge of optimis m, a re we mis s ing out

on the be ne fits of he a lthy pe s s imis m?
Nocturne explores positive outcomes and creative
solutions that emerge from embracing darkness,
working through problems, and accepting
melancholy. It's a direction of bittersweet beauty,
where night becomes a place of activity, sleep
provides a gateway to mysterious dream states,
and death is no longer taboo. It's also a theme of
blurred boundaries between night and day,
offering a dramatically different viewpoint for the
season.
Future Trends > A/W 17/18 > The Vision

Fernando Orellana
E Wha Lim

NOCTURNE A/W 17/18

KEY TAKEAWAYS
Consumers and corporations will face their fears
and look at the darker issues they have been
avoiding, shunning a false sense of optimism and
exploring the empowerment that a healthy degree
of pessimism can bring
Moments of solitude and melancholy will gradually
be seen in a positive light, recognised for their
ability to bring about new ideas and deeply felt
sensations
As we live longer lives, both physically and digitally,
we will also be able to discuss and even design the
process around death in a more humane and more
beautiful way
Night will increasingly be seen as an active
moment, whether a time to be physically active,
such as in sports, or mentally active in deep dreams
and altered states of consciousness
Design will focus on fluid transitions, blurring the
boundaries between night and day, relaxed and
formal, and enhancing the exchanges between all
five senses

Brigitte Niedermair

Future Trends > A/W 17/18 > The Vision

NOCTURNE A/W 17/18

L et us s ee that
na tura l da rknes s is
one half of a human
l ife, one ha l f of l ife
on Ea r th, one ha l f
of ea ch of us .
Paul B ogard, author of The End of N ight:
Se arching f or N atural D arkne s s in an Age
of Artif icial Light

Gabriel Isak

Future Trends > A/W 17/18 > The Vision

CONSUMER

NOCTURNE A / W 17 / 18

FA C E YO UR FE E LIN G S
Optimism has become almost like a
cult, says social psychologist Aaron
Sackett. There is an overwhelming
amount shared virally, from cat videos
(there are more than two million on
YouTube) to invented holidays (National
Cupcake Day), and Instagrams rise of
thinkfluencers, who only post
motivational quotes. Recent studies,
however, find this may create a false
sense of optimism, which is deterring
people from processing darker emotions.
It has gotten to the point where people
feel pressure to think and talk in an
optimistic way, says B. Cade Massey, a
professor at the University of
Pennsylvania.

The antidote is a strategic-balance

approach, where people face their fears.
Amy Rees Anderson, founder of
entrepreneurial support organisation
REES Capital, says: By going t hrough the
exercise of dealing in our minds with the
worst-case scenario, it allows us to
mentally shift our thinking from I cant
handle it to I will get through it.

Volkswagen offers an interesting case in

point, following the global fallout from its
diesel emissions tests scandal. There is
a real chance for VW to extract something
positive from the diesel fiasco, says
Stefan Bratzel, director of Germanys
Center of Automotive Management.
Funnelling more resources into electric
mobility gives them a credible future
perspective to try to overcome this
crisis.
While positivity shouldnt be shunned,
researchers are advocating a more
blended approach. The University of
Michigans Optimism-Pessimism Lab
suggests that a reasonable amount of
pessimism is good for businesses.
When we've been successful before and
have a realistic expectation of being
successful again, we may be lulled into
laziness and overconfidence, says the
labs director, Edward Chang. Pessimism
can give us the push that we need to try
our best.

Erwin Olaf

18+

Future Trends > A/W 17/18 > The Vision

CONSUMER

NOCTURNE A/W 17/18

T HE E N D O F A BSE N C E
We are living longer, and for the first time
in history, we are redefining the last great
taboo: death. Globally, scientists and
technologists are on a mission to 'hack
the life code', and extend human lifespan
beyond 120years. Some are even
attempting to make humans immortal
through technology. ETER9 is a social
media network that claims to learn a
users personality through artificial
intelligence (AI), and post updates on
their behalf after they have died,
transforming users into "eternal beings".
Similarly, Bina 48 is a conscious, sentient
robot, modelled on the mind of a living
human being. Currently in the
development stage, the inventors claim
Bina 48 speaks and is learning to make
cognitive decisions.
Digital afterlives arent for everyone, but
modernising traditional burials and
openly discussing death is happening
globally. Mass urbanisation is creating
premium prices for burial plots in cities
such as So Paulo, Tel Aviv and Tokyo,
where the price of a plot can reach
$100,000.

Hi-t ech, high-rise cemeteries, (featuring

digital memory banks and LED glass
cineraria) in Japan are cost- effective and
mindful alternatives. Other emerging
forms of remembrance include ashes
being pressed into vinyl records or used
to restore coral reefs, and burial pods that
transform into trees over time.
As the issue of Right to Die laws
becomes more prominent throughout
America and Europe, people are openly
discussing death like never before. One
example is the Death Cafe movement,
which aims to increase awareness of
death, in order to encourage people to
make the most of their lives. There are
more than 2,000 Death Cafes globally,
but they are not support groups or
macabre gatherings. According to
Londons Death Cafe founder, Jon
Underwood, th ey are "simply
environments where mentioning death
and the deceased or fears about personal
mortality and means of dying are openly
welcomed, and not unsaid, sanitised or
ignored.

Noriko Hayashi

Death Caf, Brooklyn

Black Mirror

Future Trends > A/W 17/18 > The Vision

CONSUMER

NOCTURNE A/W 17/18

S O LO SO JO UR N E R
Here in the Faroes, we live close to
nature. Up in the mountains, in the fog,
nothing can harm you, says Eydun DalChristiansen, Faroe Island artist and
stonecutter.

As highlighted in the Vision S/S 17

Encounter Culture, the global travel
boom is having an impact on how we see
the world, and how we are influenced by
it, and this is expected to shift gears from
fast- paced immersive holidays to more
contemplative, slower trips. Consumers
want to be alone with their thoughts and
clear their minds, and will seek countries
where time seemingly stands still. The
beautiful moodiness of the Faroe Islands
and the extreme north (Finnish Lapland,
Alaska, Northern Canada and Norway)
provide the perfect backdrop for such
solitude, which will be a key consumer
priority in 2018.
The number of solo travellers is steadily
rising. The 2015 Visa Global Travel
Intentions Study found 24% of people
travelled alone on their most recent

overseas leisure vacation, up from 15% in

2013. Additionally, for first- time
international travellers, solo travel is even
more popular, jumping to 37%, from 16%
in 2013. Analysts believe the rise of the
solo traveller is partially responsible for
the expected increase in mobile travel
bookings in 2018, as people wont have
to consult groups of friends, family and/or
spouses to book. Mobiles share of the
booking market is expected to reach 37%
in 2018, driving global online sales totals
to $180bn for APAC, $26.14bn in the US
and $17.72bn in Brazil.

Morten Germund

Cruise companies including Holland

America and The Majestic Line are
starting to invest in this consumer group,
cutting single-supplement charges and
adding more ocean-view cabins
dedicated to single travellers, instead of
the standard below-deck rooms. Its likely
that by 2018, other travel sectors will also
offer services catering to the solo
sojourner, including an increase in solo
tour guides, single restaurant bookings,
and a rise of solo adventure packages.

Kinfolk

Future Trends > A/W 17/18 > The Vision

Teresa Freitas

CONSUMER

NOCTURNE A/W 17/18

N IG HT A C T IV E

Skateboarders, surfers and mountain

bikers are no strangers to overcoming
fear each trick, wave, and slope comes
with an element of danger but throw in
darkness and the experience becomes
more challenging. For skateboarders,
night rides allow them to explore back
streets, ducking into alleys and onto
properties to test new tricks (rail grinds
and slides). However a rise in skaters hit
by cars at night is prompting some cities
to open night parks, including Liverpool
in England, which has a glow-in-t he-dark
structure. The hybrid art/active
installation is a permanent structure
designed by artist Koo Jeong A, who was
oddly inspired by Korean death culture. I
consider the work as something like
dressing the deceased in brightness,"
she says. "It is a kind of idea from my
native country, where when people die
they dress the corpse, but we dress the
deceased in brightness.

and thrill- seekers. Globally, there is a rise

in surfing, bicycling and motocross at
night, and some early adopters are
adding another level of danger: extreme
weather. Night surfing in frigid
temperatures without a body suit,
midnight mountain-bike rides in rainy
conditions and snow skating
(skateboarding during storms) are
unlikely to go mainstream, but they do
indicate a new breed of adrenalineseekers poised for future growth.

Koo Jeong A

Skateboarding isnt the only sport that is

growing increasingly extreme for athletes

Moonriders

Future Trends > A/W 17/18 > The Vision

Night Surfing at Wavegarden

CREATIVE

NOCTURNE A/W 17/18

M A G N IFIC E N T M E LA N C HO LY
Negative connotations associated with
melancholy are waning as designers
recognise the need to explore this
pensive state, and its ability to bring
about positive change. Nel Verbekes
project, Embrace Melancholy,
proposes that melancholy has as much
place in our lives as positivity and
mindfulness, and can be equally as
helpful for self- exploration. The
conceptual project aims to give
melancholy a role within the home, and
includes a mirror fitted with memento
mori and a metallic disc for moments of
active contemplation. As Verbeke
explains: Melancholy is an old complex
theme, inherent to our human being. For
most of Western history it was a desirable
condition sought for bitter sweetness ...
Nowadays ... in an overemphasis on
happiness, the theme seems to be the
opposite of what we expect from
ourselves. And in the midst of this,
something fundamentally human gets
lost along the way.

professional who discovered the

strengths of melancholy during a period
of depression, and offers relaxation at
your fingertips, with an aim to induce
positive mental change.
Outside of the home, in urban
surroundings, focus shifts to solitude
space. Photographer Lynn Saville
captures the dark, poetic romanticism of
exploring a place at night, alone, with her
series Dark City. Documenting urban
America as it sleeps, she evokes the
lonelier moments available to us at night.

Night And The Soul

PauseAble

The new mobile app by PauseAble is also

designed to help users de-stress and
refocus. It was created by a t alented
Lynn Saville

Future Trends > A/W 17/18 > The Vision

Nel Verbeke

CREATIVE

NOCTURNE A/W 17/18

D E SIG N IN G T R A N SIT IO N S
Design is increasingly focusing on
transitions between senses, between
spaces, between planets, between times,
and even between life and death.
Starting with the senses, Tate Britain this
year worked with sound engineers,
chocolatiers and perfumists to create an
exhibition where visitors could smell,
taste, touch and listen to the paintings. It
offers a new approach to experiencing
art, and explores the transitions felt when
all five senses are stimulated at once.
Designer Arnout Meijer experiments with
spatial transition, and created a corridor
during Dutch Design Week where visitors
physically moved from orange to blue,
pushing the sensory aspects of space.

Artist Amy Friend examines the transition

between past and present in Dare Alla
Luce (Italian for to bring to the light),
where she pierces vintage photographs
with pin-pricks of light, exploring the
relationship between presence
and absence.
As for the transition between life and
death, physician BJ Miller and design firm
Ideo are redesigning how we die with
Zen Hospice. They want to usher in grief
and death with warmth and beauty, to
help create a better experience for
everyone. As Miller explains: Aging and
dying can become a process of
crescendo through to the end.

Tate Sensorium

Arnout Meijer | DDW 2015

Designers are also starting to address the

transition between life on Earth and,
potentially, on Mars. Made of frozen
water, the Ice House was recently named
the winner of Nasas 3D- printed habitat
challenge. It proposes what home
could look like for us on Mars.

Amy Friend

Future Trends > A/W 17/18 > The Vision

Mars Ice House

CREATIVE

NOCTURNE A/W 17/18

SLUM BE R LA N D
Sleep is a place of wonder, and creatives
are becoming increasingly drawn to
exploring this dreamy, unknown realm.
German- born British composer Max
Richter is fascinated by the magical state
of sleep, and has written an eight-h our
sleep album. Intended to be played
through the night, while were asleep, it
aims to explore what happens when
music and our sleeping, sub-conscious
minds connect.

images in the midst of the busy and

bustling energy of the city remind us of
the deep, restorative virtues of sleep.

Max Richter

The magazine Sand & Such is another

creative venture exploring the state of
sleep. It focuses on slumber, and
everything around it. It also talks about
travelling to other realms during sleep,
and describes people in terms of how
they sleep, and the sort of dream life they
lead.
Art collective Dawn of Man also
addresses the concept of sleep with
Projection Napping, which brought largescale footage of people napping to New
York the city that never sleeps.
Projected on the exterior of buildings,
these peaceful

Dawn of Man

Future Trends > A/W 17/18 > The Vision

Sand and Such

CREATIVE

NOCTURNE A/W 17/18

DE E P DR E A M

With more US states leaning towards

easing laws around marijuana use, expect
to see a piqued interest in mind- altering
ways of being, and creatives who are
looking to simulate the effects.

way we think: it is designed to stimulate

creativity when tucked behind the ear, or
deepen meditation or bring about lucid
dreaming when placed on the forehead.

Hungarian designer Bence Agoston has

created glasses that simulate the effect of
LSD. The lenses are interchangeable to
create optical illusions, similar to
psychedelic hallucinations. Best paired
with psychedelic music, the glasses
make for a rich, intense experience.

Google Deep Dream

Googles Deep Dream also creates

dream-like, hallucinogenic effects. The
software finds and enhances patterns in
images via algorithms, resulting in
images with deeply mesmerising, and
strangely surreal distortions. From a
visual point of view, it represents a new
form of digital psychedelia.
Designer Lucas Teixeira is also looking to
probe our mental ability and induce
mind- altering states of consciousness
with a wearable concept that can
enhance the

Bence Agoston

Future Trends > A/W 17/18 > The Vision

Lucas Teixeira

STYLE

NOCTURNE A/W 17/18

N IG HT T O DA Y

Design becomes more adaptive to transitions and

boundaries blur between night and day, creating
a 'midnight at noon' style for fashion and interiors.
Products and settings with a nighttime ambience
are transformed for daytime use. Materials set the
scene for sensory experience, with objects and
surfaces emitting atmospheric, light- filtered
colour, exploring new levels of opacity and
reflection. For apparel, a relaxed formal style
brings refined but fluid silhouettes, enhanced by
discreetly sensuous after-dark fabrics.

Daan Spanjers

3.1 Phillip Lim

Eugenia Antoniou

Future Trends > A/W 17/18 > The Vision

Natalie Olenheim

STYLE

NOCTURNE A/W 17/18

DR E A M N O IR

Unsettling romanticism prevails for this poetic and

mysterious style direction, with a dreamlike
quality underpinned by a sharp, dramatic edge.
Textural and visual depth is key, with colour,
surface and pattern merging together through
layered styling, sculpted dimensional fabrics,
ghosted prints and encapsulated textures.
Decoration takes a more divine path with tumbled
semi- precious stones and heady midnight florals,
providing an intoxicating blend of glamour and
deep twilight colour.

Tessa Koot

Future Trends > A/W 17/18 > The Vision

Pink Diamond

E Wha Lim

Paolo Roversi

STYLE

NOCTURNE A/W 17/18

N IG HT WA T C H

The dark mysterious corners of built-up cities

provide space and solace, with an opportunity to
own the night. This anonymity and freedom offer
an opportunity for positive forms of selfexpression. A practical 'utility noir' styling
direction emerges from the dark, combining the
casual with the sleek and high performance,
underpinned by a cool sport and street ethos.
High visibility products, garments and textiles
appear to be bathed in a nocturnal glow or reflect
a dark iridescence.
Vito Fernicola for NSS

Jordan Sderberg Mills

Future Trends > A/W 17/18 > The Vision

Ciril Jazbec

Wenxin Zhang

NOCTURNE A/W 17/18

RESEARCH & REFERENCES

CO NS U MER

18+, Frieze Music and The Vinyl Factory

Evertro, Koo Jeong A and Wheelscape Parks

Japanese cemeteries, Noriko Hayashi

Moonriders, Chris Mlhauser

And Vinyly

Eydun Dal-Christiansen

Eternal Reefs

Britons travel solo

Burial Pods

2018 US mobile travel sales statistics

Death Caf, Jon Underwood

2015 Visa Global Travel Intentions Study

Optimism- Pessimism Lab

2018 Brazil mobile travel sales statistics

MEDIA & T ECH NO L O GY

Hos, Lucas Teixeira

Pause App, PauseAble

DeepDream, Google

Artificial Night Surfing, Wavegarden

Mars Ice House, SEArch & Clouds AO

Future Trends > A/W 17/18 > The Vision

NOCTURNE A/W 17/18

RESEARCH & REFERENCES

AR T & M USI C

Projection Napping, Dawn Of Man

Wenxin Zhang

Tate Sensorium, Joe Humphrys/Tate Photography

Tessa Koot

Night and the Soul, Jonayd Cherifi/Marin Troude

Sleep, Max Richter

Berlin photography, Stephanie Jung

Blues No. 4, Loren Connors

Dark City, Lynn Saville

Sullen Fables, Monsoonsiren

Shadows, Fernando Orellana

Twilight Window, Olafur Eliasson

FA S H IO N & DES IGN

Eclipse of Rainbow, Eu genia Antoniou

MOOD, Bence Agoston

Flora Table, Marcin Rusak

Dutch Invertuals, Arnout Meijer

Elsa, Natalie Olenheim

Redesigning Death

Save the Dream, Vito Fernicola

Distant Shores, Morten Germund

Sderberg Mills

Embrace Melancholy, Nel Verbeke

Atmosphere, Daan Spanjers

Future Trends > A/W 17/18 > The Vision

THE VISION VIDEOS

A/W 17/18

T HE GREAT RESET

D ESIGN MATTERS

N OC TURNE
Future Trends > A/W 17/18 > The Vision

E ARTHED

INFUSION

FUTURE TRENDS CRITICAL PATH A/W 17/18

T he Vision

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To help with your A/W 17/18 planning, we are mapping WGSNs four Vision trends across six key seasonal drops. This provides clear insight into which Vision
trend is be most relevant for which part of the season, so you can plan your product development more effectively.

Future Trends > A/W 17/18 > The Vision

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