M QB 250 Build Guide

MQB 250 Kit Build Guide
Mini Quad Bros

250 Kit Build Guide
www.miniquadbros.com
Table of contents
Introduction
Were happy to release this build guide to facilitate the build process for the MQB 250 kit. You
will learn the correct build methods, as well as extra tips in tricks that we have learned along the
way. Please do your due diligence and research the vast community resources before you send
an email with a question :)
Thank you!
Build of Materials
Depending on which variation and options you ordered with your kit, the list of materials will
vary. At the minimum, you will have the standard kit:
Acro Naze32 Pre-Soldered with Breakout Cable

4x Motors
4x ESCs
5v UBEC
Mini PDB
XT60 connector
Red and black silicone wire
4x 5x4.5 DAL Unbreakable Props
Piezo Buzzer
Velcro Strap for Lipo
ZMR250 Frame
Standoff packages for PDB and Naze32 (8x m3 6mm, 4x m3 screw, 4x m3 nut)
Required Tools and Accessories

1.5mm Hex Driver or Allen
2.0mm Hex Driver or Allen
5.5mm Socket Driver or wrench
Soldering Iron & 60/40 Solder(Pref Temperature Controlled)
Wire Strippers (strong finger nails)
Zip Ties
Double Stick Tape
2x Servo Cable or JST Cable
Various Heat Shrink
Blue Loctite
Zen Desk
Take time to clear your workspace, a cluttered workspace leads to missing pieces and extra
stress. Lets keep it zen :)
Step 1: Build the frame

Assemble the frame following the paper instructions. Remember to mount the red standoffs on
the top section of the bottom plate before you mount the arms. Then sandwich the arms
between the top and bottom plates. Sometimes the holes dont line up perfectly and you have a
few options to proceed. I choose to use a hex driver and manually screw the arm screws
through the frame and arms. You can also take the time to drill out each hole so a screw can be
placed by hand. Use the Nylock nuts and a 5.5mm socket driver or wrench to tighten down the
arm screws. You have most of the frame assembled now, all that is missing is the top plate, but
keep that off for now.
Step 2: Mount the motors

Now you can mount your motors and Mini PDB. Mount the motors in the same orientation as the
picture below. These motors are self tightening, and placing them in the wrong arms will take
away that effect. Use the provide m2 screws, a 1.5mm hex driver, and a dab of blue loctite, and
mount your motors. Without drilling modification, you should be able to fit three screws into each
motor. If you only want to fit two, that is fine, just make sure you use loctite. Mount the mini PDB
using four m3 nylon screws and four m3 6mm standoffs from your standoff packet.
Step 3: Attach the ESCs
Now that the motors are mounted, we can attach the ESCs
Depending on how you connect each ESC wire to the motor leads, that motor will spin a certain
way. The Naze32 is expecting each motor to spin in a specific direction depending where they
are located on the frame. Heres a diagram for your reference.
As you can see, we need the rear right, and front left motors to spin clockwise, and the rear left
and front right to spin counter clockwise. Youll also notice the numbers on the diagram. Those
are referring to the Naze32s ESC order. That is the order they are plugged into the Naze32
ESC port, but well touch on that later.
Motors 1&4 will plug into the ESC with one wire crossed. This makes those motors spin CW.
Motors 2&3 will plug directly into the ESCs straight on, making them spin CCW. Changing motor
direction can also be done regardless of wiring via BLHeliSuite using a USB Linker.
You can use the provided bullet connectors, or clip them off, desolder the ESC leads, and
solder the motor leads directly to the ESC. This will lead to a cleaner build with less points of
failure.
Refer to the photos below:
Step 4: Mount the ESCs with double stick tape.
Step 5: Prepare the ESCs power leads to be soldered to the PDB. If using
the Upgraded 12v/5v PDB, please skip to page 25 for a wiring diagram.
Note that your PDB has + and - connectors all over the board. We need to plug the r ed wires
into the + and black wires into the -. Failing to do so correctly will fry your ESCs or other
components!
Just insert them in for now, were going to flip the PDB and solder them next.
Flip the PDB so the connections are sticking through.
Trim each connection if youd like, or just keep the slack and solder them in. Make sure that +
and - connections never touch and they stay within their pods.
This is how it should look, note the solder is nice and shiny and one solid blob. This is where a
good temperature controlled soldering iron is handy. I set mine to 375-300 Celsius for these
connections.
Step 6: Solder the UBEC to the PDB

The 5v UBEC is what takes power from the PDB (whatever voltage your lipo is), filters it, and
steps it down to 5v to power the Naze32. The UBEC has an input side and output side. The 5v
output side has the servo connector on it.
I cut off the heat shrink, desolder the 5v side, trim it down, and resolder the shortened length
back to the UBEC and attach new heat shrink. I then trim the other leads as short as possible,
and mount the UBEC on the underside of the PDB using double stick tape. This is optional and
leads to a cleaner build.
Step 7: Prepare and attach the XT60 connector pigtail.
Note the + and - markings on the XT60 connector. Solder the r ed and black wires accordingly.
Slip on the heat shrink to cover the connections and use a lighter or heat gun to shrink it down.
Its advised to attach the XT60s counter connection to dissapate heat while soldering the silicon
wire.
Step 8: Solder the XT60 pigtail to the PDB

Just like you soldered the ESCs. Remember, red to +, black to -
Step 9: Get those pesky ESC signal leads out of the way.
I prefer to wire my signal leads through the frame to keep them out of the way. You can keep
everything out in the open if youd like. Its just preference :).
Step 10: Prepare the VBAT cable and solder to the PDB.
The VBAT cable allows the Naze32 to monitor the lipos voltage via the PDB. It will solder to the
PDB on one end, and plug into the Naze32 on the other. That way the Naze32 knows the exact
voltage of your lipo and will alarm the low voltage buzzer, indicating its time to land.
This can be done with a male servo cable by removing the white wire (or not, it doesnt matter)
or a JST cable.
Trimmed the cable to 1.5 and removed white wire.
Now solder the connector to the PDB. I chose the left side, because the Naze32 will be rotated
90 degrees, so the VBAT pins will be on the left side of this quad. This connector will look
similar to the UBEC connector.
Please note these two are NOT to be mixed up. If you plug the VBAT connector into the
Naze32s 5v rail(where the UBEC goes), you will fry the Naze32. The VBAT connector is only to
be plugged into the VBAT pins on the Naze32 to monitor voltage.
Step 11: Adding FPV Gear
PV200 Kit as it
There are many FPV setups possible these days. I will touch on setting up the F
is a common addition purchased with the kit.
This is a solder free FPV Kit, but I like to solder it to the PDB for simplicity. If you choose not to
solder it, you may power it with the balance lead of a 3s lipo.
The FPV200 Kit will draw its power into the VTX from the red and black wire. The VTX will
provide 5v to the camera on its own.
First clip off the Balance Port connection. You are left with a red and black wire. Shorten and
solder those wires to the PDB. Now once you plug your lipo in, your FPV system will also
receive power. NEVER power the VTX W ITHOUT an antenna attached! This will fry the VTX
If using the upgraded PDB, you may connect the FPV gear in the same away above, or, as
shown in the below diagram.
Step 12: Mounting and plugging in the Naze32
Screw on 4x more 6mm standoffs on top of the PDB, then, mount the Naze32 on those
standoffs so it clears the PDB. Mount as shown in the below pictures. Notice its rotated 90
degrees from its usual position. This makes it so the USB is accessible from the side of the
quadcopter, making connection to your computer easier.
Make sure to tighten down the m3 nuts on top of the Naze32 to secure it. If you dont apply
these, the Naze32 will be loose, and will move during flight. That will surely result in a sad
maiden flight!
Now that the Naze has been mounted, lets get everything plugged in correctly. Follow this
diagram. Remember to plug the ESCs into the corresponding ports on the Naze32. Signal
(white) is on top, ground on bottom. The UBEC plugs into the 5th slot, next to the ESC leads.
DO NOT PLUG THE VBAT CABLE IN HERE.
Alternative: Upgraded 12v/5v PDB Wiring Diagram
v UBEC b
This PDB eliminates the need for a 5 ecause it has a 5v output.
Step 13: Prepare the buzzer and attach to the Naze32
Were going to use the Piezo buzzer to make a low voltage alarm, so you will know when its
time to land. First, take a servo cable, and remove the white wire. Then solder the red and black
wires to the buzzers + and -. You can note the positive (+) on top of the buzzer, it is also the
longer pin. Once soldered, remove each wire from the servo connector, and place heat shrink
over. I also cut the servo connector down to remove the empty third slot.
Now attach it to the Naze32s buzzer port, with positive on top, ground on bottom like shown
Step 14: Attach your receiver to the Naze32

Now we need to attach the radios receiver. The receiver takes inputs from your radio
transmitter, and passes them onto the Naze32. There is no need to power the receiver
externally, it will receive power simply from plugging into the Naze32.
If youre using the Taranis and the D4R-II, this is done with one cable, rather than the full
breakout cable. The D4R-II will be using PPM protocol, meaning all eight channels will be
condensed and sent on one signal wire, rather than eight different wires.
Plug it in as shown, mismatching the polarities will result in the receiver or Naze32 frying. Also
note the black jumper on the 3&4 signal pins of the D4R. Applying the jumper puts the D4R into
PPM mode, which is required.
Step 15: Top plate
On the ZMR250, there is no SMA hole designed into the frame, so we have to make our own! I
chose this area to drill out. I started with a smaller bit, and worked my way up so as not to stress
fracture the carbon fiber from using a large bit first. Mounting your antenna this way will protect
the VTXs sma mount from stress during a crash.
This is how I normally mount my D4R receivers on the top plate. Use zip tie, double stick tape,
or both. I mount it with the button on the D4R facing up, so I can bind it to my radio, and set the
failsafe without taking it apart.
Step 16: Finishing touches of the build.
Now Im going to mount the D4R antennas (3D printed mount), attach the Mobious mount,
GoPro mount, a non slip material for the lipo to sit on, and my lipo strap. Ill also attach the VTX
antenna because next well be powering it up for configuration, and anytime you power the VTX,
the antenna needs to be on. Leave the props off for now, were going to be doing some motor
testing soon.
Step 17: Connect the Naze32 to your Computer, and flash Cleanflight
Firmware.
First, make sure the micro USB cable you are using, is a true data cable. Most standard phone
charging cables will work, but some dont have a data stream for connection, and simply charge.
Now, download the drivers
Once those are download, plug the Naze32 in and figure out which comport you are using.
Go into the Firmware Flasher tab.
Select the newest Naze32 stable version.
Click Load Firmware Online
Click Flash Firmware. It will begin to flash firmware onto the Naze32.
It will say successful and turn green when complete. If it fails it is because your Com Port is
incorrect, or your USB cable doesnt have a data stream. Once it is successful, press c onnect
at the top left.
alibrate Accelerometer.
Now youre in! Put your quad on the flattest surface possible, and hit C
Once your accelerometer is calibrated, go to the Configuration Tab. Note the settings I have
here. Specifically the highlighted ones.
Board Alignment: We input 90 into the Yaw Adjustment, because our Naze is turned 90
degrees from its native position on the quad.
ESC/Motor Features: Motor stop is enabled so that when you arm the quad, the motors will not
start spinning up automatically. I believe this is the safest way and should be enabled.
Enable OneShot125.
I also drop Minimum Throttle to 1050.
Receiver Mode: Select RX_PPM if youre using PPM on your radio system. The Taranis and
D4R-II uses this PPM mode.
If youre not using PPM, select the appropriate protocol.
Battery Voltage: Enable VBAT. This allows the Naze32 to measure the voltage of the PDB via
that cable we made. The minimum and maximum voltages determine when the buzzer will
alarm. Keep them at 4.3 and 3.5.
Voltage Scale may need to be adjusted by 1 or 2 numbers. Its typicaly 109-112. To find the
perfect value. use a multimeter on a battery, remember that voltage, that lipo into your
quadcopter, and go back to the Setup page. On the right side, you will see a voltage number. If
it isnt what the multimeter measured, you can adjust the Voltage Scale accordingly.
Failsafe: So depending on your radio, you will need to enable this. The D4R has its own
failsafe that you need to set, refer here to do that. I highly suggest you set it at 0 throttle so it
doesnt fly away on lost connection. If you have a receiver that doesnt have a built in failsafe,
you can set this value to a low number to represent 0 throttle.
PID Tuning: PID Tuning gets complicated, but luckily most of the default settings for each PID
Controller works well for most setups.
Were going to use PID Controller 1 as I prefer it. PID 2, Luxfloat, would be another good
choice.
For PID 1, the stock settings will work for the MQB Kit. But here are some tweaked settings that
I use. Make sure to Select PID Controller 1, hit save, then input these PIDS, then save again.
You can also mess with the different rates on the right side. These make the quad do things
faster and more responsive. It would be nearly impossible to do a single flip with the rates at 0,
but with them at .45, I can do 5 flips in a second. You may want reduce these to .20 or .30 if
youre new as they will be touchy.
Leave TPA at 0, it does nothing for this particular PID Controller.
Taranis Setup: Now we need to setup your Taranis channels and switches. First. make sure
your Taranis is whatever channel map you choose, in this case, we chose T AER1234. To add
these channels, go to your Channel Mixer page on your Taranis. Then add each channel like
the below image. You also need to add two extra channels for your Flight Mode Switch, and
Buzzer Alarm switch. To do this, click on C H5(Aux1). It will open a new menu where you can
ource. Once you click Source, you can flip any
select a name or leave it blank. Then click on S
switch on the radio that you would like to be your flight mode switch. I suggest using a 3 position
switch, such as SE. Now you have a flight mode switch to corresponds to the Angle, Horizon,
and Acro. Acro is enabled when no other mode is selected, so in this example, it will be when
the switch is pulled all the way towards you. Start with Angle mode and work your way down.
Now added another channel on CH6. This will be your buzzer switch. I like to use SH on the
right hand side of your radio. If you plug your quad in, turn your radio on, you can now flip these
switches and look at the modes in cleanflight, they will change and turn red/green. Green is
enabled, red is disabled. Flip the buzzer switch and your buzzer should alarm!
Receiver: This is where you setup your receiver settings. The most important thing to do, is to
set your Channel Map correctly. Look in your radio or receiver and see what channel order
AER1234
theyre using. In our example, we set our Taranis to T
Throttle
Aileron
Elevator
Rudder
AUX 1
AUX 2
ECT.
You can also plug in your quadcopter, turn on your radio, and move the sticks. They should
correspond to the channels at the top left. If its working, but the channels are not corresponding
to the right sticks, you must pick a different Channel Map a nd click Save. If when you plug your
lipo in, nothing happens, then you did not set your Receiver protocol on the first page correctly.
Go back and make sure its set on PPM or PWM, then try again. If nothing is working at all.
Make sure your receiver light is on. If its not on, then your receiver isnt getting power from the
Naze32.
Also note the RC Rates and RC Expo, these numbers will make your stick movements more
responsive. The higher the Rates, the more reaction each stick movement gets. The lower the
Expo, the less dampening your movements become. So if you want a less touchy quad, you
want to decrease your RC Rates, and increase Expo, and vise versa for a more responsive
quad.
Modes: This tab allows you to use radio switches to change flight modes on the quad. You can
also enable an active buzzer switch, just in case you cannot find your quad in tall grass or trees.
This is how mine is setup using the Taranis settings above.
Once again, make sure your Taranis has two additional channels on CH5 and CH6. These will
be your Aux channels for Flight Modes and Buzzer.
Motors: Now were getting close. We need to calibrate your ESCs, and spin up your motors to
test if they are spinning in the correct direction. If a motor is not spinning in the direction it
should. All you are going to do is swap any two of the ESC to motor connections. This will cause
the motor to spin in the opposite direction.

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M QB 250 Build Guide

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MQB 250 Kit Build Guide

Mini Quad Bros

Acro Naze32 Pre-Soldered with Breakout Cable

Required Tools and Accessories

Step 1: Build the frame

Step 2: Mount the motors

Step 3: Attach the ESCs

Refer to the photos below:

Step 4: Mount the ESCs with double stick tape.

Flip the PDB so the connections are sticking through.

Step 6: Solder the UBEC to the PDB

Step 7: Prepare and attach the XT60 connector pigtail.

Step 8: Solder the XT60 pigtail to the PDB

Trimmed the cable to 1.5 and removed white wire.

Step 11: Adding FPV Gear

Step 12: Mounting and plugging in the Naze32

Alternative: Upgraded 12v/5v PDB Wiring Diagram

Step 13: Prepare the buzzer and attach to the Naze32

Step 14: Attach your receiver to the Naze32

Step 15: Top plate

Step 16: Finishing touches of the build.

Now, download the drivers

Go into the Firmware Flasher tab.

Select the newest Naze32 stable version.

Click Load Firmware Online

Leave TPA at 0, it does nothing for this particular PID Controller.

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