DONT MISS...

JOS PIZARROS CHICKEN WITH CIDER AND APPLES CRME BRLE TART STEP-BY-STEP KOUIGN AMANN
ON SALE 1-31 MARCH 2016 4.20

Easter issue
YOUR

Hot cross bun loaf

Sunday lunch
Brunch eggs
Top roasts

Sexy
seafood
NATHAN OUTLAW
SIZZLES

THE TRUTH
ABOUT
GLUTEN

HEALTHY
GLORIOUS THE WOW-MOMENT
CHEESECAKE
RECIPES TO
SHAKE OFF
CHOCOLATE!
Vanilla with
blood oranges,

WINTER
caramel and
Hobnob crumb

16 pages of
outstanding WIN a two-day
recipes to River Cottage course
pull out & keep 0 3
9 771742 158151
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WELCOME TO
MARCH
The Easter break falls early this year,
at the end of this month, which means
those much-looked-forward-to days of
celebration are almost here Time to start
planning for a lazily long weekend of relaxing
and feasting, chocolate and joy. Its likely to
be chilly, though, so crank up the heating, get
good things cooking, ll your house with
bunches of sunny daffodils
and create the moments fond
memories are made of.
RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING: LOTTIE COVELL. PHOTOGRAPH: ALEX LUCK. STYLING: DAVINA PERKINS

The five-minute recipe:

quick apple rarebits
JUST THE THING TO TOP A WARMING
BOWL OF SOUP... SERVES 4
Set the grill to medium-high. In a food processor,
whizz 100g chopped mature cheddar, 50g chopped
gruyre cheese, 60ml good quality stout or porter,
1 tsp English mustard, 1 tsp Worcestershire
sauce and 2 medium free-range egg yolks. Season
well, then whizz once more to a smooth paste.
Trim 4 medium sourdough bread slices so they
each fit snugly inside the rim of a heatproof soup
bowl, then lightly toast. Divide 1 cored and very
thinly sliced eating apple among the toasts, then
top with the cheese sauce.
Warm through the soup of your choice (we like
butternut squash), then divide among the bowls.
Put the toasts on top of the soups and grill for
5-10 minutes until the cheese is golden and bubbling.
Serve straightaway while the topping is still gooey.

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 WorldMags.net
Special A word that sums up
this Easter issue, which has so many
new things to tell you about. First,
a tactile moment: feel the paper the
magazine is printed on Its thicker and
its glossier to show off the food
pictures in even more glory. Then, if you
turn to p74 youll nd an extra 16-page
Collectors Edition of glorious new chocolate recipes. The
beauty is, the section is printed on extra-thick paper and DANCES WITH
DAFFODILS
each page is perforated so you can tear out just one or tear They (spookily) opened
them all out. Big thanks to experts Richard Bertinet, Edd before Christmas as far
Kimber, John Whaite and Paul A Young whove created, north as Chester, but up on
the North York Moors, March
with the delicious. team, recipes so luscious I guarantee should still be a good time
youll want to speed-melt chocolate. My top choice is the for daffs. A renowned place
pretzel caramel shortbread salty, sweet and gooey, yet to walk and enjoy the cheery
trumpets is the Farndale
crisp. Look out for part two next month: brilliant bread.
Daffodil Walk. It runs along
And do tell me what you think, as this is about making your the River Dove and is a
chosen magazine something to treasure even more. 3.5km circular route just
far enough to work up an
Apart from that, have you heard of the Fridge of Dreams?
appetite for an aprs-walk
Every home should have one and you can! Behind the pub lunch by a crackling fire.
door lies magic... Every wonderful dish to tempt Download the route at
whoevers sharing your home over the long northyorkmoors.org.uk.

weekend. Thats just a small (but vital)

element of our 37-page Easter special.
I feel a pressing need to make a
batch of parmesan biscuits

THE MARTIAN DVD 2016 TWENTIETH CENTURY FOX HOME ENTERTAINMENT LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
side!

KAREN BARNES, EDITOR

WORDS: KAREN BARNES. PHOTOGRAPHS: MIKE NICHOLAS, RHAPSODY.

SPUDS ON FILM
PS Turn to
p100 for
this months special
Imagine being left behind on
Mars Thats the story behind
offer: subscribe to Ridley Scotts acclaimed movie
delicious. magazine The Martian. Astronaut Matt
and receive the
most beautiful blue
Damons struggle to survive
and white Habitat involves potatoes which is
platter worth 32 why spud supremo Albert
completely FREE! Bartlett has partnered with the
home entertainment release
Follow Karen on Twitter (on Digital HD, Blu-ray & DVD).
@deliciouseditor
and on Instagram For a chance to win a copy,
@editorkarenb visit deliciousmagazine.co.uk.

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 delicious. moments

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SLICE OF LIFE
A quarter of British adults
bake once a week, but why
exactly do we love it so
much? Alysa Levenes
rollicking good read looks
at how cake has become
so important to us. The

The best of
book leads us through
history from 2000 BC
(Before Cake), via King

MARCH
Alfred, slavery and the
spice route, Queen Victoria
and the rise of the cupcake.
Its anything but dry...
25, Headline

FOR A RAINY AFTERNOON

Keep children (and big kids) out of mischief
and have a marathon biscuit-making session
using cutters in sweet Easter shapes. Visit
deliciousmagazine.co.uk for recipe inspiration.
Meri Meri Easter cutters, 9.95 for 4, harrods.com

MONET, LUNCH AND FIZZ

Sounds like a great combination, yes? Its what the famous London
restaurant Le Caprice this year celebrating its 35th anniversary has
arranged as a lunch treat. Start by visiting the Impressionist exhibition,
Painting the Modern Garden, at the Royal Academy in Piccadilly (on
until 22 April). Afterwards, walk a few steps to the restaurant. If the
weathers fine you could have lunch on the garden terrace. The price
is a remarkably good-value 38 per person, including the lunch, RA
tickets, one glass of Perrier-Jout champagne and a free Floris rose
hand cream to take away. Le Caprice has two lunch packages to give
away to a delicious. reader. Visit deliciousmagazine.co.uk to enter.

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34
76
ON THE COVER
CHEESECAKE WITH BLOOD ORANGES,
CARAMEL AND HOBNOB CRUST, p65
Recipe and food styling Rebecca Woollard
Photograph Toby Scott
Styling Olivia Wardle
NEW! delicious.shop
Our online shop is now open!
Go to shop.deliciousmagazine.
co.uk. Look out for this
symbol for items being
sold in the shop
6 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
105 58
MARCH 2016
CONTENTS
YOUR E AS TER INSPIR ATION
34 HOW DO YOU LIKE YOUR EGGS? Possibly
the worlds best brunch recipes
42 ALWAYS A WINNER: COBBLER One topping,
three magical crowdpleasers
47 THE FRIDGE OF DREAMS If you fill it with
good things, they will come Every dish
you need, at the ready for the big weekend
58 EASTER LUNCH Elegant but relaxed is it
really possible? Of course it is
67 THE HERITAGE INGREDIENT: SAFFRON
Once youve tried hot cross bun loaf,
Easter will never be the same again
MORE GRE AT RECIPES
76 NATHAN OUTLAWS SEAFOOD SPECIAL
Spankingly fresh dishes from the
maestros restaurant in Cornwall
84 STAR OF THE SEASON Are you making the
most of spring onions? Heres how
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88 ROAST OF THE MONTH Remember rump
of beef? We reckon its due a revival
90 TASTES LIKE HOME When Dad got cooking,
the young Vivek Singh got excited
92 TREND INGREDIENT: POMEGRANATE MOLASSES
Whats all the fuss about it?
94 JOS PIZARROS FOOD FROM THE HEART
The Spanish chef cooks Basque Country
favourites from his hot new book
LIGHTER E ATING
105 GOOD-FOR-YOU MIDWEEK MEALS How
to make weekday dinners exciting
113 HEALTHY MAKEOVER Vanilla rice pudding
loses calories but stays creamy
V IS FOR VEGE TARIAN
114 THE VITALITY COLLECTION Alice Harts
dishes swap worthiness for flavour
 WorldMags.net T HE
delicious.
PROMISE
RECIPES THAT WORK Every
recipe is rigorously tested
by our food team, using
state-of-the-art Electrolux
47 ovens, so you can be
confident they work
every time.
INGREDIENTS We aim to use
easy-to-find seasonal
ingredients. Well tell you
where to find any unusual
ingredients and/or what to
substitute them with.
We use higher-welfare
meat for testing, supplied
by The Ginger Pig
(thegingerpig.co.uk).
This symbol next to an
ingredient means there
88 132 are more ideas for using
it on our Loose Ends page.
HONEST COOKING TIMES
Unlike many magazines,
our timings include
prep such as chopping.
Hands-on time is when
RE AD ALL ABOUT IT youre chopping, stirring

9 INBOX Whats on your mind this month?

GLORIOUS or frying. Oven/simmering
CHOCOLATE time is when you can
leave the dish in the oven
11 FOR STARTERS Events, trends and
Between p74-75 or on the hob.
interesting nibbles of news Indicates a vegetarian
youll find 16 pages recipe. Indicates a
17 MY LIFE ON A PLATE Chef Anthony of extra recipes to gluten-free recipe.
Demetres culinary inspiration
pull out and keep Whenever you
KNOW- see this symbol,
18 WISH LIST This months best buys, HOW
youll find useful
including top Easter treats extra information about
the recipe.
22 FOOD HERO Whats an American boy BE A BE T TER COOK
This symbol
doing making cheese in Sussex? MAKE means youll find
122 THIS MONTH IN OUR TEST KITCHEN Tips, AHEAD
an option to freeze
25 TEST REPORT An everyday cookbook, tricks and know-how from the team or chill part or all of the
a course for men, and simnel cakes recipe in advance.
128 THE CHALLENGE Its that Bake Off
28 WHAT HAS IMMIGRATION EVER DONE FOR US? Indicates you can freeze
mind-boggler, the kouign amann all or most of the recipe.
Quite a lot, says Guy Dimond, when it Unless stated, freeze the
comes to our dining-out choices finished dish for up to
OTHER GOOD THINGS 3 months. Defrost and
99 CHEERS! Susy Atkins finds the best buys heat until piping hot.
and suggests matches for Easter chocs
8 COOK THE COVER and win a Devon break NUTRITIONAL INFORMATION
75 READER EVENT Itll be a night to remember Recipes are analysed for
102 THE SANE VIEW: GLUTEN According to the nutritional content by an
experts, its had an unfairly bad press 100 SUBSCRIPTION OFFER Free Habitat platter expert nutritionist. Theyre
calculated with precision
132 HUNGRY TRAVELLER Climb into a tuk-tuk 120 LOOSE ENDS Use up those leftovers but may vary, depending
on the ingredients used.
and explore the hotspots of Bangkok 127 WIN! A two-day River Cottage course Calculations include only
138 GREAT ESCAPES A food lovers retreat in 137 RECIPE INDEX listed ingredients.

Spain, between sea and mountains 140 COMING NEXT MONTH PRICES are correct at
time of going to press.
146 RANT Flavoured water? Just no! 144 FOOD LOVERS CROSSWORD

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 WorldMags.net
COOK
THE
COVER
WIN a
foodie stay for
two in Devon
worth 520
I
ts the ultimate food lovers
prize: a weekend for two
overlooking beautiful JANUARYS
Dartmouth with a one-day COOK THE
cookery course at the Manna
COVER
WINNER
from Devon Cooking School. Elisa
As well as enjoying two nights Brandom
B&B accommodation, youll wins an
learn how to cook in a wood- Emma
Bridgewater
fired oven and have time to dinner set for
explore the areas natural her winning
beauty. mannafromdevon.com meatballs
(with a little
For a chance to win Make our help from
cover cheesecake, take a picture Bruce the
TO ENTER, GO TO deliciousmagazine.co.uk/cookthecover
and share it with us (see left). bulldog).

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FROM OUR INBOX...
Tell us what you think of
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or send your tips, pictures
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Or write to us at:
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See what other
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Follow us at twitter.com/
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Follow us at instagram.
com/deliciousmag
THIS MONTHS STAR PRIZE
18 bottles of Borgo Molino
Motivo Prosecco DOC Brut
Borgo Molino is a family
producer run by a trio of
brothers in Italy. Awarded
a silver in the Decanter
World Wine Awards
2015, Motivo Prosecco
is available from
Tesco online at 90
per six-bottle case.
It has delicate
lemon and pear
flavours and
*A FULL MAINLAND UK DELIVERY ADDRESS AND TELEPHONE NUMBER MUST BE SUPPLIED. ENTRANTS MUST BE OVER 18.
is presented in
a beautifully
distinctive bottle.
Serve it as an
aperitif or with
light seafood,
white meats
and salads.
tesco.com*
WIN! 50
FOR FULL TERMS & CONDITIONS, TURN TO P137. ILLUSTRATION: ISTOCK
SAINSBURYS
VOUCHERS
Great recipes need great
ingredients. For your chance
to win 50 Sainsburys
vouchers, solve the cryptic
clue on the magazine spine,
then email your answer, with
your name, full UK mainland
address and phone number,
to info@deliciousmagazine.
co.uk. Competition entry
closes 29 February. Entrants
must be in the Sainsburys
delivery area see p137 for
Ts&Cs. Solution to Januarys
cryptic clue: fortune cookies
have your say.
SUBJECT: Quality time SUBJECT: Dont change a thing
From: Liz Whishaw FROM : Kathryn Hankey
My husband and I run our Ive been buying delicious.
own business and have religiously since a friend of
three daughters aged mine recommended it to me in
seven, five and three. STAR 2010. Your magazine has helped
It can be difficult to EMAIL me raise my three food-loving
find family activities boys, feed friends and family
we all enjoy, but your and supply many presents.
magazine has provided Its supported me through
us with a way of spending Christmases, Easters, birthdays,
quality time together barbecues, Bonfire Nights,
talking, cooking, tasting sleepovers, breakfasts, lunches
and discussing. and dinners. So I want to say
Every month, when the new issue drops through the thank you. Please dont change
door, we all look through and see which recipes wed like a thing especially the index at
to try. Weve been doing this for a year now and its my the back!
favourite thing to do as a family. Not only are my girls delicious.
getting involved and learning to cook, but theyre also is (and
trying so many new foods. Thank you for providing us always has
with the starting point for something thats become been) my
precious to us. Who knew last years birthday-present best kitchen
subscription would prove so valuable friend.
SUBJECT:Banishing What YOUVE SUBJECT: Keep insects off the menu!
been making
the winter blues this month... FROM : Thelma Wood
FROM : Maura Connolly
In your food trends article [January, p26] you
Going through five years refer to the launch of Eat Grub: The Ultimate
of magazines to cut out Insect Cookbook. We cannot go down that road
the recipes I want to keep with a clear conscience. We have already
turned into a mammoth decimated rainforests and contaminated
yet pleasurable task. oceans, and to this we must add the slaughter
It took far longer than of innumerable animals. If we start attacking
Crumpizza!
anticipated as each issue @foodjournalist the insect world, we could be signing the death
needed careful perusal warrants of future generations by upsetting
old favourites were
rediscovered and exciting
the balance in the food chain necessary for
its survival. Please dont let delicious. be in
new choices have been the vanguard of such a movement.
added to m list of things Deputy editor Susan Low replies A caveat:
to m this piece was an observation of what may
wa happen, not a recommendation to readers.
Spatchcock chicken
d y That said, insects have been part of the diet
@doccmr
since humans have existed. Im pleased to say
we have no plans to publish insect recipes.
We will continue to provide information
on whether or not a recipe
is vegetarian and leave
it to our readers to
make up their own
Bacon and dill pasta minds about what
@jojobrosser78 they find palatable.
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maldonsalt.co.uk

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 in the know.

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FOR STARTERS
N E W S , N I B B L E S O F K N OW L E D G E A N D G O O D T H I N G S T O D O R I G H T N OW

IN THIS
MONTH...
HELP STAMP 1836 Isabella
OUT FOOD WASTE
At delicious. were always looking for ways
Beeton was born
in Marylebone on
12 March. She
published her
to use up leftovers, so were cheering for a new
first book, Mrs
United Nations initiative that aims to cut food Beetons Book of
waste despite its uncatchy name. Household
Its called Champions 12.3, which derives from Management,
aged 25. It had
a UN document setting out 17 sustainable development hundreds of
goals. Target 12.3 calls for the world to halve per capita recipes and sold 2 million
global food waste at the retail and consumer levels by copies in seven years.
2030. The initiative is led by 30 food industry CEOs,
government officials and food waste experts.
1897 Cornflakes were
Its good that the issue is being tackled on an industrial first served at The Battle
level but, according to campaign group Love Food Hate Creek Sanitarium in
Waste, half of all UK food waste comes from home Michigan by Dr John Kellogg,
who believed in a healthy
kitchens. So, while the CEOs are making targets, we diet. Later, he feuded
need to reduce our own waste too. For ideas, see with his brother
deliciousmagazine.co.uk/leftovers and Will, who
began selling
tweet us your own ideas using the
a sugar-
hashtag #nofoodwaste. added
version
under the
name Kellogg.

1904
Theodor
Seuss
Geisel was
y FOOD PSEUDS CORNER born on
2 March.
WORDS: RACHEL WALKER, DAISY MEAGER, KERRY FOWLER, SUSAN LOW.

He was
You still use dried best known
by his pen
pasta? I never eat name, Dr Seuss, author of
the classic childrens book
that stuff. I only eat
PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK, REX FEATURES, JASON BAILY

Green Eggs and Ham.

homemade spaghetti. 1965 Astronaut John

Did you know? I wouldnt give my kids Young made headlines
on 23 March by
The most expensive chocolate
Easter egg was sold in London in industrial pasta smuggling a two-day-
old corned beef
2012, as the grand finale of The
Faberg Big Egg Hunt. It was called sandwich onto
the golden speckled egg and This months winning piece of overheard a Nasa mission.
fetched 7,000 at auction. It weighed foodie twaddle is from @evainthekitchen
50kg and was over 1 metre high. via Twitter. Think you can top it? Send us
your own or overheard gems using the hashtag
#foodpseud. Well publish the best.

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TR ENDWAT CH
Quirky cocktails
JAMES RAMSDEN,
our man with his
finger on Londons
food pulse, takes
one for the team
and drinks his way around the
capitals bars in search of the
quirkiest cocktail lists
Theres a section of the menu
at White Lyan cocktail bar in
east London (whitelyan.com)
titled Heaps Mad Sh*t which
really tells you all you need to
know about Londons cocktail
scene. The cosmopolitan is
dead, thats for sure. Instead
we have a litany of drinks that
are certainly weird, and quite
often wonderful. That
A whole lot of H20
SOURCE: COOPERATIVE EXTENSION SERVICE, UNIVERSITY OF KENTUCKY
Its no surprise that fruit and veg contain a fair bit of water,
you know just how much?
CUCUMBER
96%
WATERMELON
92%
COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE
aforementioned list contains
a cocktail simply called ribs,
which contains bourbon,
smoked chilli, mint tea and
rosewood. Yep, tastes like ribs.
Mosey on a little west to
Islingtons 69 Colebrooke
Row (69colebrookerow.com),
where they make a bellini
with a honey and pollen
pure base instead of the
traditional peach (as you do).
At Kings Crosss Grain
Store (grainstore.com), whose
fondness for vegetables Ive
mentioned in the past, they
take the same classic cocktail
and give it a base of celeriac
pure. I suspect this ones
ater bbutt did
CABBAGE
93%
ORANGE
87%
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in the know.
quite, um, challenging.
Theres more plant life over
at Artesian (artesian-bar.co.
uk) near Oxford Circus, with
cocktails containing ingredients
such as seaweed, carrot, wheat,
yarrow and orange blossom, as
well as artichoke, yuzu, tonka
beans and coriander. Whatever
makes your garden grow imbibe before the liquid
Just up the road, the moody nitrogen has evaporated.
basement that is Purl (purl- Perhaps thats what
london.com) creates its martini happened to the cosmo
using liquid nitrogen you
wont complain its too warm. FROM LEFT Liquid nitrogen is all
Do read the instructions the rage at Purl, though they do
like a good old fashioned doily
though its served with a stern too; White Lyan in east London;
warning that theres a risk of at Grain Store the drinks are
death, should you attempt to appropriately vegetal
 THE MUSIC IM COOKING TO...
SANDIA CHANG
General manager and sommelier
ICEBERG
LETTUCE
96%
at Londons Bubbledogs and
Kitchen Table restaurants
True Faith NEW ORDER
Hooked on a Feeling
BLUE SWEDE
BLUEBERRIES
Tiny Bubbles DON HO
85%
Jump Around HOUSE
OF PAIN
Hey Ya OUTKAST
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 13
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M Y L O V E S & L O AT H E S
JIMMY DOHERTY
FARMER AND TV PRESENTER
JIMMYS FARM NOW HAS AN
ONLINE BUTCHERS SHOP. GO TO
JIMMYSFARM.COM/VISIT/BUTCHERY
HOT NEW COOKBOOKS
MY KITCHEN YEAR
20; Murdoch Books
(out 10 March) Ruth Reichl
was the editor of US food
magazine Gourmet, which
closed abruptly in autumn
2009. The subtitle, 136
recipes that saved my life,
sets the tone for the story
of what Ruth did next after
the shock of losing her job.
Shes a good writer, so
prepare to be pulled into
her narrative. Recipes are,
as youd expect, of the
contentment-giving kind.
FLORENTINE: THE TRUE
CUISINE OF FLORENCE
25; Hardie Grant (out
10 March) The debut book
from Aussie-born, Tuscany-
DATES FOR SPINACH You get that
sense of it doing you
good, the rush of iron.
SUNDAY ROAST We farm rare
breed animals. Im looking at
two of my dexter cattle and
thinking, Another 12 months
and they will taste amazing.
SHELLFISH Mussels and chips
with a pint of Adnams. Perfect.
FILMS AND FOOD Theres a place
near where I live in Suffolk that
serves good local food and has
a cinema. You have dinner,
then sit with your wine and
watch a movie. Worst film?
Les Misrables: Ill never get
those three hours back.
based food writer and
blogger Emiko Davies is
a beauty. The author
is a knowledgeable writer,
and she beautifully weaves
together the history of the
city with portraits of its
people, food markets and
restaurants. There are
recipes from the city and its
surrounds, too, such as
schiaccata alluva (focaccia
made with wine grapes).
One to immerse yourself
in and cook from.
MORE HOME COMFORTS
20; Quadrille James
Martin, host of Saturday
Kitchen and Home Comforts,
the series on which this
book is based, hardly needs
WorldMags.net
UNDERVALUING MILK
People forget the
dairy industry is the
backbone of the beef industry.
Theyre interlinked. We
undervalue milk at our peril.
DIPPING BREAD INTO OIL I get it
when its good oil but when
its not Im glad the practice
is disappearing.
CRITICISING THE FOOD INDUSTRY
The innovation has been
amazing and it gets us all fed
on time. We have to marvel at
that, whether its the good,
the bad or the ugly. Go to a
canning factory or mushroom
farm. Blow your mind!
an introduction. Many of
the 100 savoury and sweet
recipes are gleaned from
his show, and all live
up to the comfort-food
billing. Great photos too.
AMAZING MALAYSIAN
20; Square Peg A book
to inject some spice into
your life Malaysian-born
author Norman Musa,
who runs Ning restaurant
and cookery school in
Manchester, admits to
missing the cooking of his
home country. Just looking
at recipes in the book for
typical Malaysian dishes
such as prawn curry laksa,
beef rendang or eggs in chilli
sambal, its easy to see why.
in the know.
YOUR DIARY
MARCH & APRIL
19-22 MARCH
Food for Real Film Festival,
various locations, Liverpool
The foodie film fest will host
screenings, discussions
and workshops focusing on
all aspects of food. Therell
be documentaries, movies,
shorts and animations, with
Q&As and cookery sessions
tying in with the themes
explored. Put this one at the
top of your list.
Free; foodforreal.co.uk
2-3 APRIL
Springfest, Balloch, Loch
Lomond, Scotland
Browse your way around the
stalls of 100-plus food and
drink producers, then watch
a chef demonstration to find
out what to do with your swag.
There are food workshops
too, or you can fill your lungs
with fresh air on one of the
foraging walks.
Free; lochlomondspringfest.
co.uk
7-10 APRIL
The London Coffee Festival,
Old Truman Brewery,
London E1
A pop-up roastery, a barista
battle and latte art
masterclasses are a few of
the events taking place to
celebrate all things coffee.
Explore food and coffee
pairings in the pop-up
restaurant (tickets from 60)
or grab a coffee cocktail and
enjoy live bands and DJs.
One for the discerning
caffeine addict.
Tickets from 14.50 adults;
londoncoffeefestival.co.uk
16-17 APRIL
Porthleven Food and Music
Festival, Cornwall
The seaside town will be
buzzing, showcasing the best
of Cornish food, drink and
music over the weekend.
Whether youre watching
cookery demos in the chefs
theatre or local musical
talent, stalls lining the
harbour will keep you fed
and watered.
Free; porthlevenfoodfestival.
com
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 15
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FROM TOP Anthony,
man and boy; MY LIFE ON A PLATE
avgolemono soup
like his Greek

ANTHONY
gran used to
make; the lady
herself, with
Anthonys

DEMETRE
grandfather;
fresh herbs are
a favourite; he
grew up on baltis
in the Midlands;
a book he loves The London-based chef recalls
his grans soup, one-pot suppers
and childhood scents

MY INSPIRATION My love affair with food was sparked

at an early age by my Greek grandmothers simple,
earthy cooking. Tragically my grandparents were killed
in a car accident when I was 14, but I still remember her
avgolemono chicken soup, thickened with egg yolks and
flavoured with lemon and wild oregano. It was ambrosia.

SHARE AND ENJOY Mum was great at one-pot

roasts. She was a single mum bringing up
four children and I was the eldest, so Id
come home from school and help in the
kitchen. Now my cast-iron pot at home
is indispensable. I love having it in the
middle of the table and everybody
helping themselves. I think its important
my boys see that way of sharing.

SENSUAL MEMORIES The scents and

flavours from my youth are lemons, dill,
wild oregano. Really fresh and herbal.

KEEP IT SIMPLE Im not a fancy kind of

cook. You cant beat a Greek-style shoulder
of lamb, slowly braised for hours with
white wine, onion, oregano and garlic. Give me that
any day instead of a French-trimmed rack of lamb.

MY SORT OF FOOD Indian cooking is a big love of

mine. I come from the Midlands, where you cant move
for great baltis. I also love cooking outdoors. Not so
PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK, MIKE ENGLISH, LIS PARSONS

long ago I roasted a whole cauliflower in a Big Green

Egg barbecue and it was unbelievable.

FOOD WRITERS Im a fan of Simon Hopkinson and

Elizabeth David. Cooking at home is all about everyone
INTERVIEW: KERRY FOWLER.

sitting down and tucking into something plonked on the

table. Food is about enjoyment and warming the soul.

ANTHONY OWNS THE MICHELIN-STARRED RESTAURANTS WILD

HONEY AND ARBUTUS IN LONDON. HES ALSO COLLABORATED WITH
SEARCYS TO OPEN THE URBAN COTERIE AT THE M HOTEL IN
SHOREDITCH AND, MORE RECENTLY, OSTERIA IN THE BARBICAN.

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 WorldMags.net

These pages this month with lots

of special things for Easter are about
us doing the hard work so you dont
have to. Were sent anything from
40 to 100 new products a month, and we really
do try them all: tasting the chocolate, smelling the
aromas, testing gadgets. Only if theyre useful,
good-looking and value for money do they get
the delicious. seal of approval. KAREN BARNES, EDITOR

PORCELAIN dream
Ive been following Mud Australia on Instagram for a while
(@mudaustraliainstagram), so I was pleased to hear theyve
recently opened a store here in the UK (you can also buy
their stuff in Harrods). The colours are an artists palette of
off-white, pale grey and ice cream shades very calm, very cool.
Every piece of handmade porcelain comes in every colour, so
you can mix and match to your hearts desire. And they do mail
order, too. Prices start at 11 for a little salt pot.
Visit the store at 11 Porchester Place, London W2, or shop
online at mudaustralia.com

ORANGES ARE THE ONLY FRUIT

or almost the only fruit available in March, apart from exotics and
forced rhubarb. Whyy not cut out the middle man and order a boxful
of bright unwaxed fruit direct from Spain? GoodOranges.com
is a grower with four generation ns of expertise under its
belt. They only sell whats at
its beest, and you can order a
10-12kg box (never
refr igerated) for about 20,
d
delivered to your door
WHO SAID shippin ng is, Im glad to report,
WREATHS freee. Whether youre eating
WERE JUST FOR them as they are, making
CHRISTMAS? mar malade or juicing them,
Not us particularly when theyrre as they taaste just as oranges are
striking as this one, decorated wwith meant to taste: sweet with
little speckly eggs, feathers and twigs. jjust the right amount of
18, John Lewis stores or online accidity, and so juicy youll
at johnlewis.com neeed a plate and a napkin.

18 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
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 in the know.

C
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CELEBRATORY
DRINK
D
GIN AND TONIC
MARSHMALLOWS?
Im loving Castle Brook 2009 Yes, please. If, like me, youre not keen
C
Classic Cuve, a classic mix on marshmallows (Too sweet? Too
of
o chardonnay, pinot noir and bouncy? Not much flavour?) you might
p
pinot meunier grapes, made just be converted by these sharp,
using
u the traditional sweet, cloud-like squares by
champagne
c method. With its (appropriately) Katy Cloud. Theyd
lemony tang its a top aperitif. make a beautiful Mothering Sunday (or
The
T grapes are grown in anytime) gift because the packaging
Hereford
H by the Chinns, is as pretty as the taste is good. Top
whove
w farmed there for years choice flavours are Zingy Lemon
but
b planted the vines in 2004. (3.75) and, of course, that G&T (4.75).
26
from castlebrookvineyard. They lasted precisely five minutes in
co.uk
c and from next month you the delicious. office, which I took as a
can
c buy it in M&S, too unanimous thumbs-up. katycloud.co.uk

HOT CROSS
BUNS WITH
A TWIST
Sultanas infused with orange,
zesty lemon peel (but not too
much its subtle) and just
the right amount of spice.
Toasted and slathered with
butter, these ring-the-
changes hot cross buns
are very good indeed.
St Clements Hot Cross Buns, 1.50 for four, Marks BRING ON THE SOLDIERS!
& Spencer. Look out for the stem ginger ones, too Atten-shun! Pretty egg cups on parade: durable
terracotta with a glossy pastel-glazed rim. Pass
the Burford Browns and get the toast on
Eddingtons eggcups, 5.99 for two. You can order them
from kitchenmonger.co.uk or by calling 01488 682158

THE WELL
DRESSED
TABLE
With Easter on the
horizon, a beautifully
set table needs a fine
cloth to complete the
look. This Fog Linen Work
tablecloth from Home
Keep it NEAT Address is made from 100%
linen, which has the attribute
Swan has launched a range of retro storage containers for
the kitchen from caddies for sugar, flour and so on to of getting softer the
a bread bin big enough for more than one loaf (hurrah!). The more often its washed.
PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK

range comes in five colours and is made from gloss-coated Available now for 70 at
iron with chrome handles and fixtures, so its durable. shop.deliciousmagazine.co.uk
27 for three canisters; 25 for bread bin; very.co.uk

Turn the page for our top-pick Easter buys

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in the know.

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YOUR EASTER ARTY
TOUCH
A velvety milk chocolate

HOTLIST
egg made with Valrhona
chocolate and adorned
with yellow and white
buttons. Too pretty to
eat? Almost
Buying a sweet gift for someone special? The Chocolate Society
artisan milk chocolate
These are worth seeking out egg, 39.99 for 200g,
exclusively from
Selfridges
EVERYONE
LOVES BUTTONS
Chocolate buttons, that is,
making this years signature
eggs from Chococo a surefire
winner. The dark chocolate
is made from 67% Madagascan
cocoa solids. Theres a
milk chocolate version, too.
Both come in fetching colourss.
8.50 for 150g, CUTE COOKIES
chococo.co.uk To make a change from
chocolate, try these all-butter
Easter biscuits handmade in
the bakery at the renowned
Bettys in Harrogate. They
taste as good as they look.
FLOWER 8.25 for 160g, bettys.co.uk
POWER
French bakery and
patisserie Paul
celebrates Pques
(Easter) with this egg
made from smooth milk
chocolate and decorated WARNING: ADDICT
ADDICTIVE
with scattered white If you know a fan of Reeses Peanut Butter
chocolate flowers. Cups, one taste and their heart will be lost
Bon apptit! to these. Small milk chocolate eggs with
Oeuf Fleur Chocolat au a sweet, lightly salted peanut butter filling.
Lait, 9.95 for 225g, from Montezumas Peanut Butter Mini Eggs,
Paul shops nationwide 3.99 for 150g; montezumas.co.uk

SURPRISE,,
SURPRISE
Keep the hand-painted d
egg-shaped box for
trinkets long after thee
12 indulgent truffles
are gone theyre
dairy free but youd
never guess. You cant
choose the colour of
egg box you receive,
so you wont know GOING, GOING
GOING G
GOING,
G GONE
which pattern youre These praline-filled milk chocolate eggs wont hang around for
getting until it arrives. long. Theyre dyed blue with spirulina (thats a blue-green algae)
Booja Booja Hazelnut to look like eggs from Daylesford Legbar hens (now thats a use for
Crunch Truffles, the so-called health food powder that we can get on board with!).
24.99, ocado.com Three Gianduja Legbar Blue Eggs, 12 for 210g, daylesford.com

20 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
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nobody squeezes
more nuts in

More taste, more protein, more energy.

At our very own factory here in the UK, we can squeeze a lot more
nuts into our nut butters because we dont add palm oil or sugar.
Better for you, and better for the orangutans.

meridian: nuts about nuts

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Its about making the

best cheese we can
Whats a nice American guy doing making cheese on a grand estate
in deepest Sussex? Earning awards, for one thing. Rebecca Woollard
discovers how Bruce Rowan became a champion of British cheese

G
lorious Goodwood: its a name
associated with fast cars, galloping
horses and, these days, vintage
festivals that attract thousands of punters.
The 5,000 hectare estate in Sussex is much
more than the famous racecourse. It
encompasses the stately home Goodwood
House, a hotel, members club, two golf
courses, and cafs, restaurants and bars.
Much of the food served in these venues
comes from Goodwoods own organic
Home Farm, which is the sort of place
I wish all my food was produced in: the
South Downs rear up all around, the yard
is spotlessly clean and theres a discernible
feeling of pride in whats accomplished
here. It radiates from the gleaming
machinery and the shiny coats of the
200 dairy shorthorn cows grazing steps
away from the creamery. Inside, US-born
cheesemaker Bruce Rowan greets me with
a big smile. Its not surprising hes smiling.
Hes been at Goodwood for three years
and last year his cheddar-style charlton
won Best Organic Cheese at the annual
British Cheese Awards.
AN AMERICAN ABROAD
So how did an American with a degree in
restaurant management end up making
award-winning cheese in the middle of
Sussex? After college, I managed some
big restaurants in the States, but it wasnt
really what I wanted to do, Bruce explains.
Ten years ago my wife got a job in the
UK, so we moved to London and I began
working for Neals Yard Dairy. I was selling
the cheese and learning how to mature
it and meeting a lot of exciting
cheesemakers too.
Neals Yard, the groundbreaking Covent
Garden-based purveyor of handmade
British and Irish cheeses, has a policy of
sending its staff on work placements. Bruce
went to Nottinghamshire to work with
Joe Schneider, a fellow American making
stichelton (a raw milk version of stilton),
and with the respected cheesemaker Mary
Holbrook, based outside Bath and known
for her ash-coated goats cheese tymsboro.
I was inspired, says Bruce. So I sent
out CVs applying to be a cheesemaker and
got a reply from Quickes dairy in Devon.
I told them I had no experience and they
said theyd teach me. I learned pretty much
everything from them. He did well with
that one: there are few better places to learn

22 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
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the craft of making cheddar than from
the masters at Quickes dairy.
THE ROAD TO SUSSEX
How did Bruce make the move to
Goodwood? I came across an ad for the
cheesemaker position here. I sent my CV
and came in for a chat. They said theyd let
me know in a few weeks, so I headed back
to Devon. I got as far as Lyme Regis and my
phone rang It was them, offering me the
job. I played it cool, said Id think about it
Three years on, Goodwoods cheese
is getting kudos. Cloth-bound charlton is
aged for an optimum 12 months to
develop its creamy, gently crystalline
texture and citrussy flavour. Im not
going for a cheese that bites your head off,
like some farmhouse cheddars we want
charlton to be a pleasure to eat, not just an
acquired taste for cheese snobs.
Also on the Goodwood cheeseboard is
a bloomed-rind camembert-style cheese
called levin down and the mould-ripened
molecomb blue. Each cheese is named
PHOTOGRAPHS: STEPHEN HAYWARD
after somewhere on the estate, and theyre
made to complement each other when
served together. Its a neat touch.
KEEPING IT SMALL
Bruce counts himself lucky. There arent
many dairies where you can walk across
food hero.
the field to talk to the farmer about the CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT
Cheesemaker Bruce
herd I know what theyve been eating Rowan shows off his
and how it will affect their milk. I even award-winning cheese,
know what mood the cows are in! charlton; Goodwoods
Working in this kind of close-knit bijou hotel; shorthorn
cows on the 5,000 hectare
community ensures Goodwoods cheeses estate, whose milk
have consistency of quality, as well as supplies the Goodwood
genuine individuality of flavour a must dairy; the surrounding
South Downs; that cheese
when theyre supplying the Estates many
will be ready soon
restaurants and cafs. We also sell to
some outside shops and restaurants, but
were a small operation. Were happy with
that, though for us its about making the
best cheese we can. If we turn a small
profit on top, thats a bonus.
Buy Goodwood cheeses at the Goodwood
Farmshop; buy charlton at goodwood.com/
goodwoodhomefarm/goodwoodcheese
THE UKS NEWEST FOOD AWARDS
All the nominations are now in for the inaugural
delicious. Produce Awards, launched in association
with kitchen appliance specialists Fisher & Paykel
(fisherpaykel.com) to unearth the nations brightest
We asked you to tell us your favourite food produc t
you are, hundreds of you obliged. Were busy assessing your nominations for
the best bakers, butchers, cheesemakers, fishermen, dairy farmers and the
rest, and the grand judging will take place in July.
Shortlisted producers will be announced on the delicious. website at the end
of May and the winners will be announced in our October issue, so keep your
eyes peeled. Heres to the nations food heroes!
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 WorldMags.net

Zero-calorie Truvia.
Leaves help make it sweet.
Being honest, we cant take all the credit for our sweetener praise
is due in large part to those little sweethearts: the Stevia leaves.
Thanks to all their hard work, you are now able to enjoy Truvia
with its sugar-like texture and calorie-free sweetness.
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TEST
REPORT
THE COOKBOOK
A Simple Table: Fresh and
Fabulous Recipes for Every Day
by Michele Cranston (14.99;
Murdoch Books)
TESTED BY Susan Low
If youre after the kind
of cookbook that invites
armchair dreaming
about exotic locations
and ingredients, this is
not the book for you.
If, on the other hand,
youre fed up with chefs
waffling on about their
philosophies, or 20-year-olds enthusing
about strict, but transformative, health-
giving regimes, youll be relieved that this
book doesnt have a chia seed in sight.
Neither will you have to wade through
chapters of spurious health advice, or
swear off major food groups before getting
to the point: the recipes. This isnt a book
about clever food there are no culinary
gymnastics, no liquid nitrogen party tricks
and no mention of the word diet,
promises Michele. Hurrah to that.
So, want something nice and not too
tricksy to put together for a midweek dinner
for two? Head for the Two Bowls chapter.
Need some new ideas to liven up family
meals? See the Four Plates section. There
are also chapters for weekend platters,
one-pot meals, side dishes, tea-time treats
and some stunning-looking desserts.
QUALITY OF THE RECIPES The author has been
a cook and food stylist for more than
25 years. She is currently food-editor-at-
large at Australian Womens Weekly and has
written 12 cookbooks in the deservedly
popular Marie Claire series. She sure knows
how to write an appealing recipe, then
hone it down until its as concise as can be.
The recipe intros are in a script that
I found tricky to read so I looked at the
pictures and weighed up the yum factor
before settling on two veg-centric dishes:
ricotta and cavolo nero gnocchi with sage
butter (UK cooks would call it gnudi as
its not potato-based), and a nice-looking
buttery potato cake.
Once I got stuck into the first recipe,
I was a bit concerned that one large egg
yolk and 35g flour wouldnt be enough to
hold the gnocchi together when they hit
the boiling water. I neednt have worried
they emerged light, almost fluffy, before
being bathed in butter and sprinkled with
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in the know.
ITS ALL GOOD
Ricotta and cavolo
nero gnocchi
and, left, buttery
potato cake
crisp sage leaves. The dish was decidedly
generous for two and eagerly devoured.
Next I launched into the buttery potato
cake. It looked pretty fancy but, provided
you have a mandoline, its dead easy. As
with the previous recipe, the instructions
were clear. Mine took a bit longer to cook
than stated in the recipe, but I did use a
high-sided cake tin rather than the frying
pan called for so that was my own dumb
fault. It looked as good as the picture and
didnt take too long to disappear, courtesy
of my dinner guest.
PHOTOGRAPHY Beautifully lit pictures by
Aussie shooter Petrina Tinslay recall the
lightness and brightness of southern
hemisphere sunshine and give the reader
a definite idea about what to aim for. The
styling (by the author) is classy and clean,
and the clever line drawings (also by the
author) give the book individuality.
SUITABLE FOR You dont need to be a master
of technique, have piles of cooking kit or
masses of time to give these recipes a
whirl just a good appetite. Its a book for
confident cooks who like to feed people.
STAR RATING +++ ++
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 25
in the know.

THE COOKERY SCHOOL

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WHERE Ashburton Cookery
School, Devon
(ashburtoncookeryschool.co.uk)
THE COURSE Gentlemans Relish,
two-day weekend course, 315
(includes lunch and dinner with wine;
accommodation available separately)
TESTED BY Mark Taylor
WHAT ITS LIKE Apparently, theres more to
cooking than grilling a bit of meat or fish,
steaming a few veg and microwaving the
occasional baked potato. Who knew?
Certainly not me, but my ignorance was
swiftly addressed by my delicious.
colleagues soon after I joined the magazine.
They set about getting me to improve my
kitchen skills. Thats why, early one
Saturday, I arrived at the sleekly modern
Ashburton Cookery School in the pretty
Devonshire village of the same name.
As the course title, Gentlemans Relish,
would suggest, this was to be a blokeish
weekend. My fellow attendees were all
male and, like me, if not quite reluctant
cooks, definitely reticent cooks. Most
were of a certain age and had been given
the course as a gift by hopeful wives
and partners, willing a miraculous
transformation in their fellas kitchen
skills. We bonded quickly and, once wed
been introduced to our tutors, chef
director Darrin Hosegrove and chef
Tom Ewings, we were ready to get started.
WHAT I LEARNED The course is designed to
encourage the novice and, for each recipe,
Darrin and Tom demonstrated exactly
what was required. As well as cooking up
playful banter, they taught us no-nonsense
prep and knife skills, and impressed upon
us the value of using good, seasonal
ingredients. The school is proud of its
links with local suppliers.
Over the weekend, we created a varied
menu that utilised those local ingredients
pan-fried mackerel fillets, short-rib beef
and ale stew with dumplings, sticky date
pudding, venison cheese burger with
triple-cooked chips The theme was
well-made, hearty posh pub food, which
GUYS AND GRILLS
Brush up on kitchen skills with
chef Darrin Hosegrove at the
Ashburton Cookery School
we all enjoyed at lunch and dinner each
day feeling proud, if not amazed, that
wed concocted this feast ourselves.
THE VERDICT There was a palpable sense of
transformation by the end of the course.
I emerged far more confident as a cook
empowered, even with a good grounding
in cookery skills and an eagerness to put
them to use as soon as possible.
The atmosphere was fun and informal,
and Id enjoyed the company of my fellow
students. Although I hadnt come away
with a signature dish I could wheel out
for special occasions, I had been given
the ability to cook, and I had a new-found
desire to seek out recipes and not be
afraid to give them a try. A pretty
successful weekend, Id say.
Ashburton Cookery School is part of the
Independent Cookery Schools Association,
the only independent accrediting body
in the UK; independentcookeryschools.co.uk

THE TAS TE TES T SIMNEL CAKES

HOW WE TEST Our panel are taste
experts. We conduct our tests
without packaging, so our
tasters dont know who
produced each product or how
much it costs. And to prevent
one tester influencing another,
the panel arent allowed to SUPERMARKET WINNER BRAND WINNER JOINT BRANDD RUNNER
RUNNER-UP
UP JOINT BRAND RUNNER-UP
confer during the tests, so the Bertinet Bakery, 3.25 Fortnum & Mason,
Marks & Spencer, Peyton & Byrne,
results are unbiased.
12 for 940g per 290g slice, in-store 5.95 for 120g, in-store 19.50 for 950g,
WHAT WE LOOKED FOR The marzipan Overall we found most and online at bertinet. and online at in-store and online at
had to be of good quality (no of the supermarket com/bertinetbakery fortnumandmason.com peytonandbyrne.co.uk
TASTE TEST WORDS: DAISY MEAGER

twang of almond essence) and
the balls (traditionally 11 of
them, to represent the
apostles, except Judas) needed
to be in evidence. As for the
cake itself, a moist texture was
important, with lots of fruit and
balanced spice. The simnel
cake had to look good, too.
cakes way too sweet Unconventionally this The dense, rich sponge Its traditional look and
and lacking in spice, but simnel cake is sold as is packed full of fruit pretty fluted edge
not so our winner. The slices, with a marzipan with a pleasant hint of were popular with the
attractive design and apostle on each. It hits spice, but its a tad dry. panel. The cake itself,
burnished top entices, all the right citrussy- The marzipan is a little though a little dry,
while the cake is buttery spicy notes, and the thin but does have a is well flavoured not
and moist with thick, cake is moist with thick, good almondy flavour, too sweet and the
natural-flavoured great quality marzipan and the judges liked the marzipan got the seal
marzipan. Full marks. its addictive. sweet ducklings on top. of approval.

26 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
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DONE FOR US? in-out

Its early spring and Brexit is in the air. After the promised in
referendum, Britain may soon choose to turn its back on th he EU
or will it? Guy Dimond stops and thinks about what, food-wi wise,
European immigration has brought to our country and wonder ders
if there really is such a thing as British food anyway
ILLUSTRATION ALICE PATTULLO

I
grew up in Scotland, where the
monotony of the north European diet
was occasionally broken by rays of
sunlight brought by Italian immigrants.
They and their Scottish-born descendants
introduced us to multi-coloured gelati,
vibrant pizzas, and pasta dishes sprinkled
with herbs and lashings of olive oil.
We knew the forebears of our neighbours
and playmates had escaped poverty and
unemployment in Italy by moving north,
bringing their Mediterranean
diet with them, despite the
colder climate. Starting with fish
What happens in Europe informs
and chip shops and ice-cream
parlours, many migrants went
on to bigger and better things. Its small
wonder that, for decades, many of the
top-rated restaurants in Glasgow and
Edinburgh were Italian; some of them (such
as Valvona & Crolla in Edinburgh) still are.
The first Italians in Scotland, of course,
were the Romans we still use the tracks of
their roads today. Nearly 2,000 years later,
famines and two World Wars prompted
further waves of Italian immigration. The
experience of my grandparents and parents,
who were market gardeners, wasnt
unusual. Italian and German POWs in
World War II were put to work tilling
Scotlands fields, alongside local farmhands.
Some of these captives grew fond of the
country and decided to stay. Bruno, a
flaxen-haired German POW, perfected his
English with the help of a dictionary that
my (usually law-abiding) grandmother
smuggled to him. He stayed on after the
war, working with my grandfather before
marrying a local lass and settling nearby.
Further south and closer to continental
Europe, London has a more complex
pattern of immigration. Many European
immigrants worked in catering, often
what happens in Britain
purveying cuisines other than their own.
In the late Victorian era, German bakeries
brought continental-style fancy breads
and Viennoiserie to high streets. The
Maltese ran Sohos Italian restaurants for
a generation in the 20th century. And after
World War II, Czechs, Poles and Eastern
Europeans escaping poverty and
Communism at home were no strangers
to caterings low pay and long hours, and
took the work the British were less keen
on. Without the manpower provided by
those successive waves of European
immigration, the post-War dining-out
boom wouldnt have happened.
A poor but enterprising young Hungarian
called Egon Ronay arrived in Britaain in
1946. A few years later he opened a French
restaurant in Knightsbridge called the
Marquee, which sparked a trend for rustic
cuisine paysanne classic dishes served up
without fuss and ornamentation. (He later
famously became an influential
restaurant guidebook publisher.)
Overall though, dining out in rationing-
era Britain was fairly grim. In 1961, long
after rationing had ended and 10 years
after founding The Good Food
Guide, the socialist gastronome
Raymond Postgate described
British food of the preceding
decade thus: As for materials,
butter was never used in cooking, it was
always marge. Cream was never real cream;
it was a sort of sweetened white grease
offered under one of various fancy names.
THE FRENCH NEW WAVE
But by the late 1960s a French revolution
was sweeping away these ersatz
ingredients. Brothers Albert and Michel
Roux opened a fine-dining restaurant
called Le Gavroche near Sloane Square
in London, which was an instant hit
with society folk of the Swinging Sixties
and, give or take a Michelin star, it
has maintained the highest standards
to this day under the watchful eye of

28 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
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food for thought.

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Michel Roux Jr. Pierre Koffmann,
Raymond Blanc and other top cheefs of
the 1970s and 1980s were as Frencch as a HOW BRITISH IS BRITISH FOOD?
round of camembert, and helped promote British cooking has been incorporating ideas
the appreciation of quality ingred dients, from abroad since the Jutes, Saxons and
seasonality and a sense of place. But subsequent
q p
chefs and opinion- Normans settled on our shores. Take any
formers, either Michelin-starred or starring on TV, were generally British dish apart and its only as British
British. Did this mean the Brits had turned their backs on France? Non! as its precedents...
Arguably the most influential chef of the 1980s was Alastair Little,
whose unflashy style of cooking was described as modern British FISH A
AND CHIPS
by The Good Food Guide, a phrase that seemed to indicate a culinary Quinteessentially British,
move away from France. Yet only a few years later the same publication r ight? But the
had to rename this increasingly dominant style modern European, technique of
for there is no escaping continental Europes effect on British food; battering, then
what happens in Europe always informs what happens in Britain. deep-frying fish was
The editor of the current Michelin Guide to Great Britain and Ireland, probably perfected in
Rebecca Burr, sums it up this way: We [Michelin] have always had Portugal and Spain, then brought
this stigma attached to us as being too French-oriented. But back in to England by the Sephardic Jewish community
the 1970s, thats all youd find in London the French were the only who settled in the East End of London and
chefs who were cooking at star level. elsewhere more than 150 years ago.
In the 18th and 19th centuries,
France produced the chefs who Good chefs like LOBSCOUSE
catered for Europes royalty and to experiment. This meaty stew is so strongly associated with
aristocracy. Chef superstar Auguste port city of Liverpool that scouser is the
Escoffier came to London in 1890 to Theyre not bound by nickname for people with the local accent
run The Savoys kitchens and made national traditions but there are similar stews from Baltic ports
food fashionable. The French were in Germany and Denmark with remarkably
NUNO MENDES
also the first to codify the techniques similar names.
and terms of cookery the same ones
taught in the UKs catering colleges today. Culinary hegemony KETCHUP
especially for haute-cuisine was inevitable. Nowadays, Britain has its The fry-up essential is the anglicised
own brigades of Michelin-starred chefs, making their mark at top form of the Malay word, keecap, itself a
restaurants all over the UK, but theres still a strong French influence. style of condiment importe ed from
Five years ago there was a resurgence of French brasserie cooking in China (in Cantonese, gwai zap).
London, with big salons and grand cafs in the European style Early forms were fish-based;
places such as The Delaunay and Brasserie Zdel. the tomato version we kno ow
today is probably American in origin.
g
EUROPEAN INTEGRATION
Other nations cuisines are making their mark, MINCE PIES
too. At the moment the Nordic countries are These festive stalwarts have a history dating
a big influence. Their purity, clarity and back to the Crusades. Combinations of fruit,
fastidiousness in sourcing ingredients is second meat and spices were common in Middle
to none, says Burr. Meanwhile, Portuguese- Eastern cooking of the Middle Ages; by the
born Nuno Mendes is one of the new wave of time of the Tudors, the spicy mixtures were
European chefs making waves in the capital. The being put into pastry shells.
chef of Chiltern Firehouse Taberna do Mercado
says, At the moment its difficult in Portugal, with KEDGEREE
high unemployment. London is better for chefs because The Indian rice and lentil dish khichdi,
people are happy to experiment. You can see influences of which dates back millennia (its me entioned in
Spanish and Portuguese chefs everywhere small-plates Sanskrit texxts), probably
menus, Spanish ingredients. At Taberna, nearly half our chefs are inspiredd this Anglo-
Portuguese but the other half are British, or from other places. Good Indian dish. Smoked
PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK

chefs like to experiment. Theyre not bound by national traditions. fish and eggs were
The reasons for immigration are complex, but one things certain: added in the British
our dinner plates would be a lot less interesting if the Italians, the colonial vversions.
Poles, the French and a smrgasbord of other European cooks and
chefs hadnt brought their fresh ideas and flavours across La Manche.

30 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
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Something to NEW

CHERISH
this Ea ter

DISCOVER THE CHOCOLATE COMPANY WITH COCOA FARMERS AT ITS HEART

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Find Divine Easter Eggs in Waitrose, Oxfam, Asda, Liberty, independent stores & divinechocolate.com
 the easter weekend.

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38 62 68

The joy of the

long Easter break
STOP Plan at least one meal over the weekend
when everyone sits down together and you dont
eat in a rush, TV on, phone by your side. Weve
dreamed up 36 pages of Easter inspiration for
you to choose from.

COOK Make your chosen recipe(s) from

scratch, with care. Get in touch with the
physicality of cooking the way a sauce feels
as it reduces and thickens; the aromas when
onions or garlic are cooked just so. Let your
senses be your guide.

LISTEN Make the meal a catching-up

occasion that centres around the joy of food,
then take a few extra minutes at the end to chat
and relax rather than leaping up and clearing
the table. Its all about enjoying the moment

Turn the page for your Easter recipe inspiration

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 WorldMags.net
How do you like
your eggs?
RECIPES FROM AROUND THE WORLD
The egg: versatile, nutritious and avoursome, all wrapped up in
a beautiful package. Theyre emblematic of Eastertime, but equally
evocative of home comfort wherever home may be. We asked cooks
and food writers from different countries to share a favourite egg
recipe. If youre looking for a brunch dish this holiday weekend, the
tricky part will be choosing one from this dazzling half-dozen

New York
downtown
eggs, p36

PHOTOGRAPHS MAJA SMEND

FOOD STYLING CHARLIE CLAPP
STYLING OLIVIA WARDLE

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 the easter weekend.

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Aussie
egg in a
hole, p38

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UKRAINE
OLIA HERCULES, COOKBOOK
AUTHOR AND CHEF
Ukrainians dont do
breakfast by halves. When we
were shooting at my aunts
house for my book Mamushka,
my photographer Kris and
I were working non-stop for
four days. We felt that we
were going to faint from
exhaustion, so my aunt
whipped up this Ukrainian village
breakfast. We came straight back to life!
I distinctly remember she said she used a
chicken breast from a chicken shed killed
that morning. God I miss Ukraine...
Anything you fancy or thats in season
can go with these eggs, but the ingredient
that makes this dish quintessentially
Ukrainian is good quality lardo (pork fat).
I know a lot of people are into clean eating
these days, but we Ukrainians love our
lardo. It envelops everything with the most
wonderful porky flavour a flavour we
cant live without.
Ukrainian village
breakfast
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN
Lardo is an Italian cured
KNOW- pork fat from the back of
HOW
the animal. Its available
from Italian delis and online, but if
you cant find any, duck fat or beef
dripping work too.
50g lardo, chopped
(see Know-how)
1 shallot, thinly sliced
1 free-range chicken breast, thinly
sliced lengthways (optional)
100g kale
4 medium free-range eggs
1 Cook the lardo in a large frying
pan over a medium heat for about
5 minutes until most of the fat has
been rendered (melted). Add the
shallot and cook until it starts to
turn golden (about 4 minutes).
2 Add the chicken (if using) and cook
for 2 minutes, then add the kale and
cook for another 5 minutes.
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3 Finally, crack in the eggs, season
and cook. You can leave them whole
and cook until the whites have
set and the yolks are still runny, or
mix them in to scramble them it
will taste great either way.
PER SERVING 244kcals, 18.7g fat (8g
saturated), 17.6g protein, 0.8g carbs
(0.7g sugars), 0.3g salt, 1.2g fibre
USA
KATHLEEN
SILVERFIELD,
delicious.
DIGITAL
EXPERT AND KEEN COOK
When you miss your
motherland you have two
choices: go home or eat
like youre at home. I chose
the latter when my latest
bout of homesickness
struck and invented a
brunch dish reminiscent
of NYC. Theres no
sandwich more evocative
of the city than pastrami
on rye, and this recipe
uses those flavours. The
pastrami, coupled with
the caraway seeds in the
spicy bloody mary sauce,
takes me back to the
Jewish delis in Queens
and Manhattan.
New York downtown eggs
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 25 MIN
8 medium free-range eggs
8 pastrami slices
FOR THE SPICY BLOODY MARY SAUCE
400ml thick tomato juice
2 tbsp Worcestershire sauce
1 tbsp grated horseradish
2 tsp Tabasco sauce
tsp soy sauce
tsp caraway seeds
1 tbsp lemon juice
FOR THE LATKES
500g potatoes, such as rooster,
coarsely grated
1 onion, coarsely grated
2 large free-range eggs
2 tbsp flour
Sunflower oil for frying
1 For the spicy bloody mary sauce,
put the tomato juice in a pan and
bring to a simmer. Cook for around
15-20 minutes to reduce and
thicken. Stir in the remaining sauce
ingredients, then set the pan aside.
2 For the latkes, put the grated
potatoes and onion on a clean tea
towel, then wrap tightly. Wring the
towel out over the sink, squeezing
out as much moisture as possible.
This will take a few minutes but
its important for the potatoes to
be as dry as possible. Transfer the
mixture to a large bowl, then add
the eggs and flour and mix to
combine. Season well.
3 Pour 2cm sunflower oil into
a large frying pan. Heat over a
medium-high heat until the oil
sizzles when a small piece of latke
mixture is dropped in. Carefully
drop heaped spoonfuls of the
latke mixture into the oil without
overcrowding the pan (do this in
batches if necessary). Cook for 3-4
minutes on each side until golden.
If theyre getting too dark, turn the
heat down the latkes need to cook
all the way through before they
become too brown. Remove with
a slotted spoon onto kitchen paper
to drain. Keep warm. The recipe
should make 8 medium latkes.
4 Return the spicy bloody mary
sauce to a low heat. Meanwhile
bring a large pan of water to the
boil, then reduce to a simmer and
carefully crack in the eggs (in
batches if necessary). Poach for
4-5 minutes until the whites have
set. Remove with a slotted spoon
onto kitchen paper to drain.
5 To assemble the dish, put 2 latkes
on a plate, then top each with a slice
of pastrami and a poached egg.
Pour over the warm bloody mary
sauce and serve immediately.
PER SERVING 506kcals, 26.3g
fat (5.7g saturated), 28.3g protein,
36.8g carbs (7.7g sugars), 2g salt,
4.5g fibre
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Ukrainian
village
breakfast

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SCOTLAND
AGGIE MACKENZIE, delicious.
GADGET GURU AND AVID COOK
Ive no idea what makes
these soft rolls Scottish, but
north of the border theyre
everywhere. The combo of
savoury black pudding I buy
it online from Charles Macleod
in Stornoway creamy egg
yolk and soft bap is divinely
satisfying. It was the sort of
thing my mum would give us before we
embarked on the drive to my grannys. Our
baps came from The Co-op bakery, but with
that now long gone, Ive started making my
own. In the interests of healthier living you
could poach the egg, but fried tastes better.
Egg and black pudding on
a Scottish morning roll
SERVES 8. HANDS-ON TIME 25 MIN, OVEN
TIME 25 MIN, PLUS RISING AND PROVING
Vegetable oil for frying
250g black pudding, sliced into 8
(see Aggies introduction)
8 medium free-range eggs
Brown sauce to serve (optional)
FOR THE ROLLS
450g plain flour, plus extra for
dusting
1 tsp fast-action dried yeast
1 tsp salt
350ml lukewarm whole milk
1 To make the rolls, sift the flour
into a large bowl and stir in the
yeast and salt. Make a well in the
centre and add the milk. Mix well
with your hands to make a soft,
sticky dough. Put the dough in
a large bowl, cover with cling film
and leave to rise in a warm place
for about 40 minutes.
2 Tip out the risen dough onto a
lightly floured surface and divide
into 8 equal pieces. Roll each lightly
into a round, then put on a floured
baking sheet, leaving space for them
to expand as they bake. Sprinkle
with a little flour, cover with a clean
tea towel and leave to prove in
a warm place for 20 minutes.
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3 Heat the oven to 190C/170C fan/
gas 5. When the rolls have proved
(they will have puffed slightly), bake
for 25-30 minutes until theyre pale
golden and sound hollow when
tapped on the bottom. Leave to cool
a little on a wire rack.
4 While the rolls are still warm, heat
a little vegetable oil in a frying pan,
then add the black pudding slices.
Cook for a few minutes on each side,
then move to a plate and keep warm.
5 Add a little more oil to the pan,
then crack in the eggs and cook to
your liking (or see Aggies intro).
6 Split the rolls and top each base
with a slice of black pudding,
squashing it down a little with a fork,
then add a fried egg and season.
Put the top on the roll and serve with
a dollop of brown sauce, if you like.
PER SERVING 428kcals, 17g fat
(5.4g saturated), 17.9g protein,
49.7g carbs (2.3g sugars), 1.5g salt,
2.2g fibre
AUSTRALIA
MONIQUE
LANE, FOOD
WRITER
Theres
nothing glamorous or,
as far as Im aware,
quintessentially Aussie
about egg in a hole, but
for me its an immediate
return to childhood
summers in Sydney with
our family friends, the
Stevens. Mr and Mrs S
used to make this for the
kids as a treat. Wed stand
in a line waiting for our
eggy and snatch it
straight from the pan, hot
and dripping with butter.
I remember thinking the
fact egg and bread had
become a single entity was
the best thing imaginable.
Here Ive added bacon,
because bacon improves
everything as far as Im
concerned.
Aussie egg in a hole
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN,
OVEN TIME 10-15 MIN
8 British free-range streaky
bacon rashers
4 thick slices good white bread
Butter, softened
4 medium free-range eggs
2 ripe avocados
Juice 1 lime
Small handful fresh coriander,
roughly chopped, plus extra
leaves to garnish
Sriracha sauce (or, if you dont like
spice, ketchup) to serve
1 Heat the oven to 220C/200C fan/
gas 7 and lay the bacon in a single
layer on a foil-lined baking sheet
with a lip. Cook for 15-20 minutes,
turning once, until crisp.
2 Meanwhile, cut a square or stamp
a circle out of each slice of bread,
leaving about a third of the soft
white part as a border. Butter both
sides of the bread. (You can butter
the bread cut-outs, then add to the
bacon in the oven for the final 10-15
minutes if you like.) Once the bacon
is cooked, remove from the oven,
then turn down the heat to
180C/160C fan/gas 4.
3 Melt a knob of butter in a large
non-stick ovenproof frying pan over
a medium heat, moving it around to
coat the base. Add the bread slices
and cook until golden on one side
(about 2 minutes). Turn over the
bread and repeat until both sides are
golden. Remove the pan from the
heat, then cross 2 pieces of bacon
over the hole in each toast. Crack an
egg over each bacon-covered hole.
Transfer the pan to the oven and cook
for 8-10 minutes until the white is set
but the yolk still has a bit of wobble.
4 Meanwhile, mash the avocado with
the lime, coriander and a pinch of
sea salt. When the eggs are cooked
to your liking, serve the toasts with
the avocado on the side, a scattering
of coriander and a drizzle of sriracha.
PER SERVING 528kcals, 37.3g fat
(11.8g saturated), 21.6g protein,
23.8g carbs (1.7g sugars), 2.4g salt,
4.9g fibre
 the easter weekend.

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Egg and black

pudding on
a Scottish
morning roll

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IRAN
SABRINA GHAYOUR,
COOKBOOK AUTHOR
At first glance
this looks like a
meatloaf or
maybe even a giant
scotch egg?
Actually, Persian
cooks have been making
kooftehs (the Persian
word for kofte) like this
for centuries. The scotch
egg is believed to have
drawn influence from a
Mughal dish called
nargisi kofta, to which it
bears a striking
resemblance. Its not hard
to see why such recipes
have stood the test of
time. They rely on simple
ingredients but look
spectacular and taste
great. The traditional
Persian recipe uses lamb
or beef mince, whole eggs,
herbs and prunes, but Ive
added pistachios. A great
brunch-time feast.

Persian lamb, apricot and

pistachio koofteh
SERVES 4-6. HANDS-ON TIME 25 MIN,
OVEN TIME 45 MIN

SABRINAS TIP The word koofteh/

kofte means to pummel, so
remember that when making your
mixture and work it almost to a paste.

500g lamb mince (20% fat)

7 large free-range eggs (3 raw,
4 boiled for 6-7 min and peeled)
25g fresh dill, finely chopped
(stalks and all)
25g fresh chives, finely chopped
2 tsp ground turmeric
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1 tsp ground coriander
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp ground cinnamon
1 tsp nigella seeds
50g whole, shelled pistachios

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 the easter weekend.

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100g dried apricots, roughly
chopped

YOULL ALSO NEED

1.5 litre loaf tin

1 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/

gas 4. In a mixing bowl, combine
the lamb mince, raw eggs, herbs,
spices, pistachios, apricots and
a generous seasoning of salt and
black pepper. Mix together well (see
Sabrinas tip).
2 Press just less than half the
mixture into the base of the loaf tin,
then make an indent lengthways
down the centre, end to end. Lay
the boiled eggs in a row in the indent.
Pile the remaining mixture over the
eggs and smooth the surface into
a peak, ensuring the eggs are all
covered. Bake for 45 minutes.
3 Remove the tin from the oven,
then turn out the koofteh and cut
into slices. Serve with your favourite
sauce I like mine with a sweet
tamarind or chilli sauce, but brown
sauce works beautifully too.
PER SERVING (FOR 6) 357kcals,
22.8g fat (7.8g saturated), 29.5g
protein, 7.2g carbs (7g sugars),
0.5g salt, 2.4g fibre

over the other 2 bread slices, then

ENGLAND put them, mustard-side down,
DAN DOHERTY, EXECUTIVE CHEF AT on top of the ham and cheese
DUCK & WAFFLE RESTAURANT, LONDON slices to make a sandwich. Heat
Eggy bread is one of my most treasured childhood food the grill to high.
memories. My mum used to make it for me when I was ill. 3 Melt the butter in a large non-
Nostalgia plays a big part in planning dishes at the restaurant, stick frying pan until foaming,
so it was inevitable that Id play around with eggy bread at then add the sandwiches. (If
some point. This recipe is essentially a ham and cheese your pan is too small, cook the
sarnie using eggy bread. Its like a hug on a plate. sandwiches one by one, using
half the butter each time.) After
2 minutes or so they should be
nicely golden brown. Turn and cook
Eggy-bread grilled 1 Beat the eggs in a wide, shallow on the other side until golden.
cheese sandwich bowl and season with salt and 4 Transfer the sandwiches to
SERVES 2. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN pepper. Dunk the bread slices in a foil-lined baking tray, sprinkle the
the mixture one by one, pressing remaining cheese on top and grill
4 medium free-range eggs well so the bread absorbs as much for 2-3 minutes to melt the cheese.
4 slices good white bread egg as possible, then lay them out Serve straightaway.
2 free-range English ham slices on a baking sheet. PER SERVING 606kcals, 34.9g fat
NEXT
60g mature cheddar, grated 2 Put a slice of ham on 2 of the eggy (16.4g saturated), 34.3g protein, MONTH
1 tbsp English mustard bread slices, then sprinkle over half 37.5g carbs (3.1g sugars), 2.4g salt, Theres a new
25g butter the cheese. Spread the mustard 2.3g fibre gin in town

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 WorldMags.net
ALWAYS A WINNER

Cobbler
With golden-puffed dollops of scone-like topping crowning a bubbling lling,
a cobbler is a thing of wonder for the senses. Here, weve adapted an airily light
topping recipe for three different dishes, covering savoury and sweet. Cook any
of these for friends over the holiday weekend and you'll have a happy gathering
RECIPES REBECCA WOOLLARD AND ROSIE RAMSDEN PHOTOGRAPHS GARETH MORGANS AND ALEX LUCK
FOOD STYLING REBECCA WOOLLARD AND LOTTIE COVELL STYLING DAVINA PERKINS

Chicken, mushroom and garlic with a slotted spoon.

MASTER RECIPE
Cobbler topping
300g plain flour
2 tsp baking powder
1 tsp fine salt
75g unsalted butter, cubed
284ml buttermilk (270ml for the dough,
the remaining 14ml for brushing)
1 Put the flour, baking powder and salt into
a large mixing bowl and stir to combine.
Add the butter then, using your fingertips,
rub in the butter until you get a coarse,
sandy mixture.
2 Stir in the buttermilk and bring
everything together into a soft, sticky
dough. Use the dough as required in the
recipes that follow.
and riesling cobbler
SERVES 6-8. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN,
SIMMERING TIME 40 MIN, OVEN TIME 30 MIN
60g unsalted butter
6 banana shallots, halved
lengthways
2 fat garlic cloves, thinly sliced
12 bone-in British free-range
chicken thighs, skin removed
Plain flour seasoned with salt and
pepper to dust
200g button or chestnut
mushrooms, halved
750ml dry riesling wine
200ml fresh chicken stock
4 tbsp double cream
1 tbsp dijon mustard
Small bunch fresh tarragon,
leaves picked
FOR THE COBBLER TOPPING
1 quantity cobbler topping (left)
1 tbsp finely chopped fresh chives
1 tbsp finely chopped fresh
tarragon (from bunch above)
1 Heat the butter in a large shallow
casserole. When sizzling, add the
shallots, cut-side down, and cook
over a medium-high heat for a few
minutes until theyve taken on some
colour. Flip them and cook for 2
minutes more. Turn down the heat,
add the garlic and cook, stirring, for
1-2 minutes, then remove the shallots
2 Coat the chicken with the flour.
Turn the heat under the casserole
to high, add the chicken and fry for
a few minutes on both sides until
coloured. Put the shallots and garlic
back in the casserole along with the
mushrooms, then pour in the wine
and stock. Bring to a gentle simmer,
then turn down the heat and cook
for 40 minutes, stirring occasionally,
until the chicken is tender and cooked
through. Remove from the heat,
then stir in the cream, mustard and
most of the tarragon, reserving
some for the topping. Leave to cool.
3 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/
gas 6. Make the cobbler topping as
in the recipe (left), stirring in the
chives and tarragon with the
buttermilk in step 2. Dollop large
spoonfuls of the topping haphazardly
over the chicken. Brush the topping
with the reserved buttermilk from
the cobbler topping recipe.
4 Transfer to the oven and bake for
30 minutes until the sauce is
bubbling and the topping is golden
brown and puffed. Leave to stand
for 5 minutes, then serve.
PER SERVING (FOR 8) 529kcals,
22.1g fat (12.5g saturated), 30.1g
protein, 34.3g carbs (4.5g sugars),
1.5g salt, 2.3g fibre
WINE EDITORS CHOICE More
riesling, but make it a rich, dry
version from Alsace in France.

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 the easter weekend.

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Chicken,
mushroom
and riesling
cobbler

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 WorldMags.net FOR THE TOPPING
1 quantity cobbler topping
(see p42)
1 heaped tsp English mustard
powder
Dusting of plain flour
(optional)
100g extra-mature cheddar,
coarsely grated

1 Heat 3 tbsp olive oil in a large

shallow casserole (about 30cm).
Season the pork, then coat in the
seasoned flour and add to the hot
oil. Brown well all over, then remove
to a plate with a slotted spoon (you
may have to fry in batches). Add the
leeks and pancetta to the pan, with
a little more oil if necessary, and fry
gently for 10 minutes until soft.
2 Add the sage and return the pork
to the pan. Add the cider and stock,
covering the pork, season again and
bring to the boil. Reduce to a simmer
and cook, covered, for 1 hour.
Remove the lid and simmer for
another hour until the pork is tender
enough to pull apart with 2 forks.
Break up the pork a bit, stir in the
chopped parsley, then leave to cool
a little while you make the topping
(see Make Ahead).
3 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/
gas 6. For the topping, follow the
master topping recipe but stir the
mustard powder into the flour in
step 1. Shape the dough into a disc
slightly smaller than the casserole,
using a little extra flour if its too
Pork, leek and sticky, then score a cross in the top
cider cobbler
using a sharp knife. Scatter half the
grated cheese over the pork and
place the cobbler disc on top.
Pork, leek and 3-4 tbsp light olive oil 4 Glaze the top with the reserved
cider cobbler 1.5kg British free-range boneless buttermilk (from the cobbler topping
SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, pork shoulder cut into 3cm pieces, recipe), then scatter over the
SIMMERING TIME 2 HOURS, skin and excess fat removed rest of the cheese and bake for
TEAM OVEN TIME 40 MIN 1 tbsp plain flour, seasoned with 40 minutes or until the topping is
FAVOURITE salt and pepper golden and cooked through. Leave
Les Dunn, Cook the pork up to 2 days 6 leeks, sliced into rounds to stand for 5 minutes before serving.
managing editor MAKE ahead to the end of step 2, 5 thin pancetta slices, chopped PER SERVING 872kcals, 38.7g fat
The slow-cooked AHEAD
pork shoulder then cool and chill, covered. into 1cm lengths (17.2g saturated), 71.6g protein,
and cheesy Heat on the hob before topping with Small bunch sage leaves, chopped 51g carbs (7.8g sugars), 2.7g salt,
cobbler topping the cobbler. Or, once cool, freeze the 450ml dry cider 6.8g fibre
had me
pork in a freezerproof container for 525ml good quality chicken stock WINE EDITORS CHOICE A strong,
spoon-hogging
excessively in the up to 3 months, then defrost and Large bunch fresh flatleaf dry cider or an appley South African
test kitchen. warm through before continuing. parsley, leaves roughly chopped chenin blanc would go best here.

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 the easter weekend.

WorldMags.net Individual rhubarb, demerara

and almond cobblers
MAKES 8. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, OVEN TIME 20 MIN

1.2kg rhubarb, sliced into 4cm lengths

175g golden caster sugar
Finely grated zest 1 orange
30g fresh ginger, finely grated
Cream to serve

FOR THE TOPPING

1 quantity cobbler topping (see p42)
60g golden caster sugar
tsp vanilla bean paste
3 tbsp each demerara sugar and flaked
almonds to top

1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6.

Toss the rhubarb with the sugar, orange
zest and ginger in a large bowl and leave
for about 15 minutes to macerate. Butter
8 x 250ml ovenproof serving dishes.
2 Meanwhile make the cobbler. Follow
the master recipe but use only tsp salt
and add the golden caster sugar to the flour
(step 1). Stir in the vanilla paste with the
buttermilk (step 2). Bring the dough together,
then divide into 8 pieces (about 75g each).
Divide each into thirds and roll into 24 balls.
3 Divide the macerated rhubarb and any
juices equally among the buttered dishes
(about 160g each). Top each dish with
3 topping balls, brush with the reserved
buttermilk (from the cobbler topping
recipe), then sprinkle over the demerara
sugar and flaked almonds.
4 Put the dishes on a baking sheet and
bake for 20-25 minutes or until the topping
is golden and cake-like, and the rhubarb
is soft but still holds its shape. Serve
with lashings of cream.
PER SERVING 417kcals, 11.7g fat
(5.4g saturated), 7.9g protein, 67.8g carbs
(38.4g sugars), 0.7g salt, 4.4g fibre

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 WorldMags.net
The perfect place to
curl up with a classic.
On a classic.

Winston from 1,099

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 the easter weekend.

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The fridge of dreams
No matter how
old you are, opening
your fridge to find
the shelves full
of enticing snacks and
homemade meals is a sight
to behold. When I go to visit
my parents in Lincolnshire,
peeking in the fridge is one
of the things I look forward
to most (not forgetting the
dogs). My mum has a knack
for filling it with just the
right things for the weekend,
especially if its a holiday.
Here, Ive devised a mix of
recipes and suggested a list
of easy-to-find ingredients
that will give you all the
components you need for
an Easter weekend of
feasting whatever time
of day someone pulls open
the fridge door.
LOTTIE COVELL, DEPUTY FOOD EDITOR

RECIPES & FOOD STYLING LOTTIE COVELL

PHOTOGRAPHS YUKI SUGIURA
ILLUSTRATIONS EMMA DIBBEN
STYLING DAVINA PERKINS

WorldMags.net deliciousmagazine.co.uk 47
 WorldMags.net NO-FUSS CHILLED PUDDING
Lemon, lime and ginger
cheesecake
SERVES 8-10. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN,
PLUS CHILLING

Prepare the cheesecake

MAKE up to 48 hours in advance.
These little biscuits are AHEAD
The leftovers will keep for
perfect for when unexpected a few days longer in a sealed
guests drop by container in the fridge.
Its easy to change the
FOOD
TEAMS flavours here. Try swapping
TIP
the lemon and lime zests in
the filling for 1 tsp vanilla bean
paste, then swirl through a couple of
tablespoons of good quality rhubarb
jam. Keep the stem ginger syrup as
the flavour is great with rhubarb.

FOR THE BASE

200g gingernut biscuits
60g unsalted butter, melted
Grated zest 1 lime
Vegetable oil for greasing

FOR THE FILLING

THE BAKE-ANY-TIME BISCUIT In a food processor, pulse
Parmesan sabls 160g plain flour with tsp fine sea
MAKES ABOUT 16. HANDS-ON TIME 10 MIN, salt, tsp cayenne pepper and a pinch
OVEN TIME 12 MIN of English mustard powder to combine.
Add 150g chilled, cubed, unsalted
Its good to make a double batch butter, then pulse until you have a
MAKE
AHEAD of this dough, wrap it in cling mixture that looks like breadcrumbs.
film and put it in the fridge. It Add 150g grated parmesan and 1 tsp
will keep for a couple of days, ready to cold water, then pulse to form a dough.
slice and bake as needed. The dough Shape into a log, then wrap in cling film
also freezes well: wrap in a double and chill for at least 30 minutes or up
layer of cling film, then freeze for up to to 48 hours (see Make Ahead). Heat the
3 months. Defrost just enough until you oven to 180C/ 160C fan/gas 4. Slice the
can cut through it with dough into 5mm rounds and place on a
a sharp knife, lined baking sheet about 3cm apart
then slice off (the biscuits will spread a little in the
as many oven). Brush with beaten free-range
biscuits as egg, then sprinkle with extra sea salt
you want and and poppy seeds. Bake for 12 minutes
return the or until golden.
rest of the PER BISCUIT 156kcals, 11.4g fat
dough to the (6.9g saturated), 5.1g protein, 7.9g carbs
freezer. (0.2g sugars), 0.4g salt, 0.4g fibre
560g full-fat cream cheese (we
like Philadelphia)
397g tin condensed milk
3 tbsp stem ginger syrup (from
a jar of stem ginger in syrup)
Zest and juice 2 lemons
Zest and juice 2 limes, plus extra
zest to decorate
1 sachet Dr Oetker powdered
gelatine (widely available)
YOULL ALSO NEED
20cm diameter loose-bottomed
cake tin
1 In a food processor, whizz the
gingernut biscuits to fine crumbs,
then add the butter and lime zest.
Whizz again until everything is
mixed together thoroughly. Lightly
oil a 20cm diameter loose-bottomed
cake tin, then evenly press all but
2 tbsp of the biscuit crumbs into the
base. Chill while you make the filling.
2 Put all the filling ingredients
except the gelatine in a large mixing
bowl, then beat with an electric
mixer until very smooth.
3 Put the gelatine in a medium bowl
with 100ml cold water. Sit the

48 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
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 the easter weekend.

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Lemon, lime and ginger

cheesecake

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 WorldMags.net

Smoked salmon pt
with quick-pickled
radish and cucumber

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 the easter weekend.

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bowl on a saucepan half filled with
hot water from the kettle, then heat
gently over a low heat (make sure
the bowl doesnt touch the surface
of the water). Stir the gelatine until
it dissolves, then stir into the filling
mixture, ensuring there are no
lumps. Pour the filling on top
of the chilled biscuit base, then
cover the tin with cling film and
chill in the fridge for at least 5 hours
to firm up (see Make Ahead).
4 Remove the cheesecake from the
tin, then sprinkle over the reserved
biscuits and extra lime zest to serve.
PER SERVING (FOR 10) 410kcals,
25g fat (16.4g saturated), 7.4g
protein, 38.7g carbs (31.3g sugars),
0.7g salt, 0.4g fibre

THE QUICK-FIX PT
Smoked salmon pt
with quick-pickled radish
and cucumber
SERVES 6 AS A STARTER OR NIBBLE.
HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN

The pt will keep for up to
MAKE 4 days, chilled in a sealed
AHEAD
container.
In a large mixing bowl, put 200g
smoked salmon, 280g full-fat
cream cheese, the juice of 1 lemon,
a small handful of fresh flatleaf
parsley, 2 tsp hot horseradish
sauce, 100ml single cream and
a good few turns of black pepper
and salt. Use a stick blender to
blend until smooth. Alternatively,
whizz in a blender or mini chopper.
Set aside (see Make Ahead).
Finely slice a handful of radishes
and peel cucumber into ribbons,
then put in a mixing bowl. Pour
over 3 tbsp white wine vinegar
and add 2 tbsp caster sugar, then
season generously with salt
and toss. Stand for 5 minutes
Serve the pt and pickle with
blinis or toasted sourdough and
a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil.
PER SERVING 241kcals, 18.1g fat
(10.4g saturated), 11.5g protein,
7.6g carbs (7.3g sugars), 1.3g
salt, 0.7g fibre
You cant go wrong when youve got
a pot of fresh homemade pesto on
standby its brilliant for pepping
up snacks or main courses
THE MULTI-TASKING SAUCE
Punchy pesto
MAKES 200G (ENOUGH FOR 6 PORTIONS OF
PASTA). HANDS-ON TIME 10 MIN
Keep in a sealed container
MAKE in the fridge for up to a week,
AHEAD
or freeze for up to a month.
WHY ITS GREAT Homemade pesto is
a smart thing to have in your fridge
because of its versatility: stir it into
pasta or gnocchi, use it as a topping
for crostini with crumbled feta or dollop
it over steak.
In a mini chopper or food processor,
whizz a large handful of fresh basil
with a large handful of fresh flatleaf
parsley, 40g roughly chopped
parmesan, 2 anchovy fillets,
1 tbsp rinsed, drained capers and
1 garlic clove until you have a rough
paste. Add 1 tsp sea salt and 80ml
good quality extra-virgin olive oil.
Whizz again until combined. Taste,
season if it needs it and add lemon
juice to taste (we used lemon).
PER SERVING (FOR 6) 122kcals,
11.8g fat
(2.7g
saturated),
3g protein,
0.7g carbs
(0.2g
sugars),
1g salt,
0.5g fibre

WorldMags.net deliciousmagazine.co.uk 51
 WorldMags.net
8 hard-working
ingredients...
Even if you make all the recipes here, its
worth filling any gaps in your fridge with
extra provisions. That way youll have
a full food kit behind that fridge door, ready
to feed hungry mouths, day or night
FRESH EGG PASTA is the top choice for a fast
meal, tossed with crushed garlic, torn fresh
basil, grated parmesan, extra-virgin olive oil
and lemon juice. It cooks in 3 minutes.
CHARCUTERIE Great for impromptu antipasti
boards, sandwiches or snacking.
NOCELLARA ITALIAN OLIVES Big, bright green and
juicy a perfect nibble with cocktails.
CHEESES If you dont have a deli nearby,
thecheesesociety.co.uk has a good
selection. Or visit our online shop at
deliciousmagazine.co.uk for top quality buys
from The Courtyard Dairy. Wherever you
buy from, good choices include:
Lincolnshire poacher
Farmhouse cheddar
Gruyre (also for cooking)
Stichelton or other blue cheese
Ash-coated goats cheese or a zingy
goats cheese that works well in salads
Brie with truffles, or a brie de meaux
Parmesan for cooking
FULL-FAT NATURAL YOGURT Dollop on top of or
stir into curries, mix into a dip, swirl into
soup or eat for breakfast. The food team
like Yeo Valley Greek Style Natural Yogurt.
The Collective Dairy Straight Up
unsweetened yogurt is also a great choice
its sour, so it works well in rich savoury
and spicy dishes.
GOLD TOP JERSEY AND GUERNSEY WHOLE MILK
Cooking with gold top
tastes so much better. It
also makes luxuriously
creamy coffees a treat for
the Easter weekend.
FRESH HERBS AND SALAD LEAVES
Parsley, dill, coriander,
basil, rosemary, mint,
rocket and watercress.
LEMONS AND LIMES If youre a
regular delicious. reader,
youll know we see citrus
as an important seasoning.
If you balance it with other
elements, it helps bring out
the flavours of the dish.
52 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
THE WHENEVER SOUP
Warming sweet potato
and ginger soup
SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN,
OVEN TIME 40-45 MIN
You can prepare this soup
MAKE up to 1 week in advance,
AHEAD
then store in a sealed
container in the fridge. Or freeze for
up to 3 months; thaw to reheat.
Fresh stock makes a big
FOOD
TEAMS difference to soup. Buy the
TIP
best quality you can afford.
1kg sweet potato, skin on, roughly
chopped
2 eating apples, such as braeburn,
cored and cut into wedges
1 tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp coconut oil
1 onion, finely chopped
2 tsp coriander seeds, crushed
2 tsp cumin seeds, crushed
20g fresh ginger, grated
400ml full-fat coconut milk
750ml good quality vegetable 100g sourdough bread
stock (see tip)
1 tsp salt
Greek yogurt and fresh coriander
leaves to serve
1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C
fan/gas 6. Spread the sweet potato
pieces and apple wedges in a large
roasting tray, drizzle with olive oil
and season with salt and pepper.
Roast for 40-45 minutes until
softened and golden.
2 Meanwhile, in a large saucepan,
heat the coconut oil. Add the onion
and fry over a low-medium heat for
5 minutes. Add the coriander and
cumin seeds, then fry for a further
5-10 minutes until fragrant.
3 Add the ginger, coconut milk,
stock and salt, then bring to a gentle
simmer. Once the sweet potato and
apple are cooked, carefully add
them to the pan. Simmer for a
further 5 minutes, then remove
from the heat. Use a stick blender
to whizz the soup until smooth
wrap a tea towel around the pan
to prevent the soup from splashing
while you whizz it. (Or carefully
blend in batches in a jug blender.)
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4 Serve with a swirl of yogurt and
a sprinkling of coriander. Have some
crusty bread on hand for dunking.
PER SERVING 369kcals, 18.5g fat
(14.3g saturated), 4.1g protein,
43g carbs (17.2g sugars), 1.7g salt,
7.2g fibre
SPEEDY SALAD
Apple and fennel slaw
SERVES 8. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, OVEN
TIME 5-10 MIN
Have the veg ready sliced
MAKE in the fridge and the dressing
AHEAD
made up to 4 hours in
advance, but combine them no more
than 30 minutes before serving. If
youre leaving the veg in the fridge,
toss it with a little lemon juice and
cover with a damp piece of kitchen
paper to keep it from browning.
1 red onion, sliced into rings
2 tbsp caster sugar
2 tbsp red wine vinegar
Olive oil for drizzling
red cabbage, thinly sliced
1 fennel bulb, thinly sliced
2 granny smith apples, cored
and thinly sliced
FOR THE DRESSING
100ml full-fat Greek yogurt
1 tbsp wholegrain mustard
50ml mayonnaise
Juice lemon
Handful fresh flatleaf parsley
1 Put the onion, sugar and vinegar
in a small bowl and set aside for
10 minutes. Heat the oven to 220C/
200C fan/gas 7. Tear the bread into
bite-size pieces, then spread over
a baking tray. Drizzle with oil and
season, then bake for 5-10 minutes
until golden and crisp. Set aside.
2 Mix the cabbage, fennel, apple and
quick-pickled onion in a large bowl.
In another small bowl, combine all
the dressing ingredients, season,
then toss with the veg along with the
croutons. Serve.
PER SERVING 170kcals, 9.5g fat (1.6g
saturated), 3g protein, 16.6g carbs
(10.9g sugars), 0.3g salt, 2.7g fibre
 the easter weekend.

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Homemade soup in the fridge

is a proper treat, and the spices
in this recipe are both warming
and cheering

Sweet potato and

ginger soup with
a swirl of yogurt

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THE CENTREPIECE
Ham hock, sausage and
cider raised pie
SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 1 HOURS,
OVEN TIME 1 HOUR, PLUS CHILLING AND
STANDING
The pie will keep covered in
MAKE the fridge for up to 4 days.
AHEAD
Freeze for up to 1 month.
Hot water
FOOD
TEAMS crust pastry
TIP
is robust, so
you dont need to
handle it tentatively.
FOR THE FILLING
Olive oil for frying
3 shallots, sliced
3 leeks, finely sliced
54 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
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Apple and fennel
slaw, p52
200g small button mushrooms
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
4 British free-range sausages,
cut into 2cm pieces
6 tbsp plain flour
150ml dry cider
200ml fresh chicken stock
180g British shredded ham hock
50ml single cream
Juice lemon
Large handful each fresh flatleaf
parsley and sage, roughly chopped
FOR THE HOT WATER CRUST PASTRY
80g unsalted butter
80g lard
500g plain flour
1 tsp fine salt
1 medium free-range egg,
plus 1 beaten egg to glaze
YOULL ALSO NEED
23cm diameter, deep, loose-
bottomed cake tin
1 In a large, flameproof casserole,
heat a glug of oil over a medium heat.
Gently fry the shallots and leeks for
10 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Add the mushrooms and garlic, then
cook for a further 5 minutes and
lightly season. Transfer the
vegetables to a bowl and set aside.
2 Add another glug of oil to the
casserole and turn up the heat.
Add the sausages and fry for 5-10
minutes, shaking often, until they
start to colour. Return the veg to the
pan along with the flour and stir to
combine. Fry for 1-2 minutes. Add
the cider, bubble to reduce for
2 minutes, then add the stock, ham
hock and cream. Simmer for
10 minutes or until the sauce
thickens. Season, then stir in the
lemon juice and chopped herbs.
3 For the pastry, put the butter and
lard in a medium saucepan with
200ml cold water and bring to the
boil. Meanwhile, put the flour and
salt in a large heatproof bowl and
make a well in the centre. Crack in
the egg, then cover with the flour
mixture. Pour the hot water mixture
onto the flour, mixing with a table
knife to bring the dough together.
When its cool enough to handle, use
your hands to knead the dough until
smooth. Leave to cool, covered with
a tea towel, until just warm or at
room temperature
4 Wrap a third of the pastry in cling
film. Roll out the rest of the pastry
into a circle 30cm in diameter. Lift
into a deep, 23cm diameter, loose-
bottomed cake tin. Press the pastry
up the sides and over the rim,
making sure its even it should
overhang a little and have sharp
corners at the bottom (see tip). Chill,
uncovered, for 30 minutes. Heat the
oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6.
5 Pour the filling into the chilled pie
case. Tear off a fifth of the reserved
pastry and shape into a ring big
enough to fit around the top edge of
the cake tin (you can do it in 2 pieces
if its easier). Brush the lip of the
 the easter weekend.

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No fridge of dreams is complete
without a proper pie

Ham hock, sausage

and cider raised pie

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the easter weekend.
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pie case with beaten egg, then press
the pastry ring on top. This will
create a secure seal for the lid. Roll
out the remaining pastry to a circle
about 24-25cm in diameter. Brush
the lip of the pie case with more
beaten egg, then place the pastry
circle on top. Crimp the edges
together using your forefinger and
thumb to seal the pie, then snip off
any excess pastry with scissors.
6 Brush the top of the
pie with beaten egg
and pierce a hole in
the middle to let out
steam as it cooks.
Use the trimmings
to decorate the pie,
if you like dont forget
to glaze them as well.
7 Bake the pie for 20
56 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
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A trip to the
sweetshop in
one cake
minutes. Turn down the oven
to 180C/160C fan/ gas 4, then
continue to bake for 40 minutes.
Cover with foil if the pie starts
to brown too much. Wait at least
30 minutes before slicing into
the pie that way it will hold
its shape better. You can also
serve it at room temperature.
PER SERVING 814kcals, 40.8g fat
(18g saturated), 25.3g protein, 81.2g
carbs (4.4g sugars), 2g salt, 6.9g fibre
NO-BAKE EASTER TREATS
Sweetshop crispy cakes
MAKES 25. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN,
PLUS CHILLING
Make the cakes up to 4 days
MAKE ahead, then keep in a tin in
AHEAD
the fridge or in a cool place.
FOOD
Instead of Crunchies you
TEAMS could use roughly chopped
TIP
salted pretzels, Munchies
or shortbread pieces. Instead of
Mini Eggs, try white chocolate
buttons or dried cranberries.
50g unsalted butter, plus extra
for greasing
150g Rice Krispies
2 Crunchie bars, roughly chopped
2 x 100g bags Cadbury Mini Eggs
(or similar), plus extra to decorate
225g marshmallows
2 Curly Wurly bars, roughly
chopped
4 x 39g Mars bars, chopped
Flavourless oil, such as sunflower
or rapeseed
YOULL ALSO NEED
20cm square baking tin
1 Grease and line a 20cm square
baking tin with cling film. Put the
Rice Krispies in a large mixing
bowl with half the chopped Crunchie
bars and half the Mini Eggs, then
set aside.
2 Put the butter, marshmallows and
chopped Curly Wurly and Mars bars
in another medium, non-metallic,
heatproof mixing bowl. If you have a
microwave, melt the mixture on
a medium heat for 30-second bursts,
stirring after each one, until you
have a thick, gloopy, melted mixture.
Alternatively, sit the bowl over a
saucepan half-filled with simmering
water (make sure the water isnt
touching the bowl) and stir regularly
until the mixture melts.
3 Pour the melted mixture onto the
Rice Krispie mixture and quickly
stir. The mixture is very sticky,
so you need to work quickly. Spoon
into the prepared tin. Sprinkle the
remaining chopped Crunchie bars
and Mini Eggs over the top, then
rub a little flavourless oil onto your
hands and flatten the mixture into
the tin. Cover with cling film, then
chill for 2 hours or until ready to
serve. Slice into 25 squares.
PER CAKE 165kcals, 6.5g fat (3.8g
saturated), 1.8g protein, 24.6g carbs
(17.7g sugars), 0.1g salt, 0.4g fibre
 WorldMags.net

Fifty tiny ber ries in ever y jar

make it jam-packed with taste

We v e b e e n g r o w i n g L i t t l e S c a r l e t s t r a w b e r r i e s picked and sorted entirely by hand. I t s

h e r e a t T i p t r e e f o r o v e r 1 0 0 y e a r s . To d a y, estimated that each jar of Little Scarlet
o u r f o u n d e r s g r e a t g r a n d s o n s t i l l insists Conser ve contains over fifty tiny ber ries,
o n u s i n g f r u i t t h a t s f r e s h f r o m t h e f i e l d s , ensuring you can really taste the difference.

The preser ve of good taste

WILKIN & SONS LIMITED TIPTREE COLCHESTER ESSEX CO5 0RF W W W. T I P T R E E . C O M

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 WorldMags.net
EASTER
LUNCH
the way you always
hoped it would be...
RECIPES AND FOOD STYLING REBECCA WOOLLARD
PHOTOGRAPHS GARETH MORGANS STYLING TONY HUTCHINSON

Theres something special about people coming

together for the Easter weekend, without the hype
and pressure of Christmas. The food is more relaxed,
the company laid back, and theres (we hope) a
pleasant waft of spring in the air. This menu for
Easter Sunday reflects that mood. The flavours hint at warmer
days ahead, but are still properly comforting. Ive kept things
simple with a spectacular all-in-one roast, including some of
the best potatoes youll ever eat. Add a light and pretty starter,
some moreish nibbles and a magnificent make-ahead pudding,
and you have yourself a very pleasing Sunday lunch!
REBECCA WOOLLARD, FOOD EDITOR

58 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
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 the easter weekend.

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Smoked mackerel
and quick-pickled
shallot toasts, p61

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 WorldMags.net
EASTER MENU FOR 8
Demerara and lemon
champagne cocktail
Smoked mackerel and quick-
pickled shallot toasts
%
Purple sprouting broccoli
with soft-boiled egg and crisp
rosemary breadcrumbs
%
Almond and herb stuffed leg of
pork with cont potatoes, apples
and madeira
Fennel, rocket and herb salad
with dijon vinaigrette
%
Vanilla cheesecake with
blood oranges, caramel and
hazelnut Hobnob crust

CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE

Broccoli with soft-boiled
egg and breadcrumb
sprinkles; a demerara
champagne cocktail
to get things started;
the crispiest pork
and the best confit
potatoes, p62

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Demerara and lemon
champagne cocktail
Put tsp demerara sugar in a
champagne glass. Pour over
a few drops of Angostura bitters
and a small squeeze of lemon
juice. Top with champagne and
a strip of lemon zest and serve.
Smoked mackerel
and quick-pickled
shallot toasts
SERVES 8. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN,
PLUS UP TO 24 HOURS PICKLING
This is a take on the
KNOW- ridiculously great smoked
HOW
eel sandwich at Quo Vadis
restaurant in London. Weve used
smoked mackerel here, which is
easier to find, but if you can get
your hands on sustainable
smoked eel, use that instead.
Pickle the shallots and make
MAKE the dressing up to 24 hours
AHEAD
ahead and chill. Keep the
shallots in their pickling liquid, then
drain just before serving.
FOOD
Add any leftover shallots
TEAMS to salads, sprinkle them
TIPS
over grilled meat or fish,
or use in burgers.
2 small banana shallots, finely
sliced into rings
120ml red wine vinegar
3 tbsp caster sugar, plus extra
2 tsp salt
About 4 thin sourdough bread
slices, cut into 16-20 squares
250g smoked mackerel
fillets, skin removed
(see Know-how)
1 tbsp grated hot horseradish,
fresh or from a jar (we like
English Provender, from larger
supermarkets and good delis)
5 tbsp crme frache
garlic clove, crushed
1 Put the shallots in a small
heatproof bowl. Heat the vinegar,
caster sugar and salt in a saucepan
until the sugar has dissolved and the
mixture is steaming, then pour it
over the shallots in the bowl. Stir to
mix, then leave to pickle for at least
45 minutes or up to 24 hours.
2 Drain the shallots and set aside.
Lay the bread on a large baking sheet
along with the smoked mackerel
fillets. Put the baking sheet under a
medium-high grill for 3-4 minutes
until the bread is lightly toasted,
flip the bread and the fish fillets and
grill for 2-3 minutes more, then
leave to cool. Once you can handle
the mackerel, cut or flake into small
chunks to fit on the bread squares.
3 Combine the horseradish, crme
frache and garlic in a bowl and
season with salt and pepper. Spread
a little of the mixture over the slices
of toast, then top with a pieces of
smoked mackerel. Add a few rings
of shallot on top, grind over
a little black pepper, then serve
immediately while still warm.
PER SERVING 207kcals, 11.8g fat
(4.1g saturated), 9g protein,
15.9g carbs (7.2g sugars), 2g salt,
0.9g fibre
Purple sprouting
broccoli with soft-boiled
egg and crisp rosemary
breadcrumbs
SERVES 8. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN
Make the rosemary
MAKE
AHEAD breadcrumbs
24 hours ahead, then keep
covered somewhere cool and dry.
Blanch the broccoli up to
12 hours ahead, refresh under
cold water, then keep chilled.
Cook the broccoli in boiling water for
1-2 minutes before serving.
8 medium free-range eggs,
at room temperature
2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil,
plus extra
100g dried breadcrumbs
4 fresh rosemary sprigs,
leaves finely chopped
1kg purple sprouting broccoli
Lemon juice for squeezing
Chilli flakes (optional; we like
Aleppo chilli flakes, from good
delis and ottolenghi.co.uk)
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the easter weekend.
1 Put the eggs in a pan, cover with
boiling water, bring straight back to
the boil and cook for 6 minutes for
soft-boiled. Drain and run under TEAM
cold water for a minute or so to stop FAVOURITE
Susan Low,
them cooking further. Peel the eggs, deputy editor
leaving them whole, and set aside. The mackerel
2 To make the rosemary toasts taste
better than the
breadcrumbs, heat the oil in
sum of their
a frying pan over a medium heat. parts think
Add the breadcrumbs, rosemary fishfinger
and seasoning, then cook, stirring sandwiches but
really poshed up
often, for 5-6 minutes until the and youre
breadcrumbs are golden and the halfway there.
rosemary is fragrant. Remove from
the pan and set aside.
3 Trim the purple sprouting
broccoli and halve or quarter
any thick stems. Put in a large
saucepan, cover with boiling water
and simmer for 4-5 minutes until
tender. Drain and divide among
plates. Slice each egg in half
lengthways and put 2 halves on
each plate. Scatter with the
rosemary breadcrumbs, drizzle
with a little more olive oil and
squeeze over a little lemon
juice, with some salt and pepper
and the chilli flakes if using.
Serve immediately.
PER SERVING 204kcals, 9.3g fat
(2.1g saturated), 14.5g protein,
13.2g carbs (2.9g sugars), 0.4g salt,
5g fibre
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 61
 DRINKS
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Almond and herb stuffing ingredients, season well turn the oven back down to 170C/
Susy Atkins stufed leg of pork with and allow to cool completely. Heat 150C fan/gas 3 and put the
wine picks cont potatoes, apples the oven to 230C/210C fan/gas 8. potatoes and apples back in to warm
The mackerel
toasts need a and madeira 2 Put the pork leg on a chopping up. Carve the rested pork and serve
particular type of SERVES 8 WITH LEFTOVER PORK. HANDS-ON board with the thickest part facing with the confit potatoes and apples.
wine: one thats TIME 40 MIN, OVEN TIME 2 HOURS 10-45 MIN you. Although the meat is rolled, PER SERVING 706kcals, 27.1g fat
crisp, whistle- there should still be a gap through (12.3g saturated), 70.8g protein,
clean and dry.
A young French Stuff the pork with the the middle of it that you can put your 38.5g carbs (7.8g sugars), 0.5g salt,
sauvignon blanc, MAKE stuffing 24 hours ahead. For fingers into. Using a spoon to help, 4g fibre
AHEAD
and especially the best crackling, leave the ease the stuffing into the hole, then For clever ways to use madeira,
in the form of a
lemony sancerre
pork in the fridge overnight (away use your fingers to push it as far turn to Loose Ends
or pouilly-fum, from any raw food), skin-side up, down as you can. Keep going until
will segue uncovered, to dry out the skin. all the stuffing is used up if theres Fennel, rocket and herb
through neatly Slice the potatoes and apples up to any left over, you can roll it into balls salad with dijon
for the lovely
broccoli course. 2-3 hours in advance. Leave them and bake it on top of the potatoes. vinaigrette
For the leg of soaking in lightly salted water Season the pork well with SERVES 8. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN
pork, a premium, somewhere cool, but not the fridge. sea salt, put in a roasting tin and
ripe chenin blanc
Ask your butcher to bone, roast in the oven for 25 minutes, Make the dressing up to
from South Africa FOOD
MAKE 48 hours in advance and
makes a striking TEAMS roll and tie the pork leg but then turn the oven down to 170C/
TIPS AHEAD
match, or serve a to leave the knuckle bone in. 150C fan/gas 3. keep in an airtight container
very soft Aussie Leftover pork makes a wonderful 3 While the pork is in the oven, in the fridge until needed. Put the
merlot for a red.
And for dessert, sandwich the next day, with mustard toss the potatoes and apples undressed salad in the serving
chill a bottle and any leftover fennel or rocket. together and lay in your biggest bowl, cover with a damp piece of
of rich, sweet, roasting tin (we used one that kitchen paper and keep in the fridge
orangey muscat 3.5kg British free-range pork leg, spans the whole width of the oven). for 12 hours (any longer and the
such as beaumes
de venise for a boned, rolled and tied (see tips) Tuck in the thyme sprigs and garlic fennel will discolour).
luxurious flourish. 1.5kg red skinned potatoes, very cloves here and there. Heat the
finely sliced 100g butter with the 100ml madeira 2 fennel bulbs
4 British eating apples, finely sliced in a pan until it boils, boil for 100g rocket
A few fresh thyme sprigs a minute, then pour over the 2 handfuls fresh soft herb leaves
1 garlic bulb, cloves separated potatoes and apples. Season well. we used a mixture of basil, mint
100g unsalted butter 4 Once the pork has cooked for 25 and chives
100ml madeira minutes, remove from the oven and 2 tbsp dijon mustard
put it on top of the potatoes in the 1 very finely chopped shallot
FOR THE STUFFING middle of the roasting tin (reserve 2 tbsp white wine vinegar
50g unsalted butter the pork roasting tin for later). Put tsp caster sugar
1 red onion, finely chopped the tin with the pork, potatoes and 5 tbsp light olive oil
40g fresh or dried breadcrumbs apples on the middle rack of the Handful toasted flaked almonds
40g flaked toasted almonds, oven and roast for 1-2 hours until
quite finely chopped the pork reads 60-65C when tested 1 Trim and finely slice the fennel.
Good splash madeira (enough to in the thickest part with a digital Toss with the rocket and herbs in a
make the stuffing sticky) thermometer. Check how its getting bowl. In a small bowl or mug, mix
2 heaped tbsp finely chopped on after 1 hours depending on the the mustard, shallot, white wine
mixed fresh herbs we used a mix shape of the joint, it might be done. vinegar, sugar and a large pinch of
of rosemary, thyme and tarragon 5 Once the pork has reached its sea salt. Whisk with a fork to mix.
temperature, remove the tin from 2 Slowly pour in the olive oil, whisking
YOULL ALSO NEED the oven, transfer the joint back constantly, until it emulsifies into a
Digital probe thermometer to the original roasting tin and turn thick, smooth dressing. Taste and
up the oven to 240C/220C fan/ season, adding sugar/vinegar if you
1 To make the stuffing, heat a frying gas 8. Set the potatoes and apples think it needs it. Drizzle the dressing
pan and melt the 50g butter. Add the aside, uncovered. Put a piece of foil over the leaves, toss together, then
onion and cook over a medium heat over the meat of the pork, leaving scatter with the toasted almonds
for 8-9 minutes until the onion has the skin exposed, then return it and serve immediately.
softened and taken on a little colour. to the oven for 15-20 minutes to PER SERVING 102kcals, 9.1g fat
Dont worry if it catches and browns crackle the skin. Once its crackled, (1.1g saturated), 2.1g protein,
a bit. Once softened, remove to a remove the pork and set it aside to 2.1g carbs (1.5g sugars), 0.4g salt,
mixing bowl, stir in the rest of the rest for 15-20 minutes. Meanwhile, 1.5g fibre

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 the easter weekend.

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Almond and herb

stuffed leg of pork with
confit potatoes, apples
and madeira

WorldMags.net deliciousmagazine.co.uk 63
WorldMags.net

Fennel, rocket
and herb salad
with dijon
vinaigrette, p62

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 the easter weekend.

COV ER R ECI PE
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Vanilla cheesecake with
blood oranges, caramel &
hazelnut Hobnob crust
SERVES 12-16. HANDS-ON TIME 45 MIN, OVEN
TIME 60 MIN, PLUS OVERNIGHT CHILLING

The cheesecake will keep

MAKE for up to 48 hours, in its tin,
AHEAD
wrapped in cling film. Make
the caramel up to 48 hours ahead.
Keep covered, then warm to loosen.
Put the orange segments on
FOOD
TEAMS the cheesecake just before
TIP
serving, or theyll leak juice,
spoiling the look. If you cant get
blood oranges, use regular oranges.

Vegetable oil for greasing

200g Hobnob biscuits
50g roasted chopped hazelnuts
110g unsalted butter, melted
360g full-fat cream cheese
250g mascarpone
175g soured cream
1 tsp vanilla bean paste
175g caster sugar
3 large free-range eggs
50g plain flour

FOR THE TOPPING

8-10 blood oranges (see tip)
100g caster sugar
30g unsalted butter
Splash rum, Cointreau or brandy
Pinch sea salt flakes
75ml double cream
YOULL ALSO NEED
20cm loose-bottomed deep cake tin
1 Lightly oil the cake tin. Whizz the
biscuits and hazelnuts in a food
processor until very finely ground.
With the motor running, pour in the
butter with a pinch of salt, then whizz
until the mixture looks like wet sand.
2 Tip some of the mixture into the
oiled cake tin. Using your fingers
and a metal spoon, flatten the
biscuit mixture onto the base, then
start to build up the sides, adding
extra mixture and working it up the
tin to form thin walls. Once youve
used up all the mixture, chill the
base in the fridge. Heat the oven to
160C/140C fan/gas 3.
3 To make the filling, put the cream
cheese, mascarpone, soured cream,
vanilla paste and 175g sugar in
a mixing bowl and whisk with an
electric mixer until smooth and
runny. Whisk in the eggs, then sift
over the plain flour and whisk that
in. Pour the mixture into the chilled
biscuit case, then transfer to the
oven, on a baking sheet, and bake
for 50-60 minutes until set around
the edges with a good wobble in the
middle. Remove from the oven, cool
and chill overnight.
4 For the topping, cut off the orange
peel with a sharp knife, then cut out
the segments, reserving the juices
its best to do this over a sieve in a
bowl. Put the sugar in a heavy-based
pan and heat very gently until the
sugar has dissolved dont stir it. If it
starts to caramelise too quickly in
patches, use a fork to disperse the
patches and redistribute the sugar.
Once the sugars melted, turn up the
heat slightly and cook to a rich
golden-red caramel. Remove from
the heat quickly and stir in the butter
and liqueur. It will spit, so be careful.
Add the salt, then stir in the cream.
5 Transfer the caramel to a bowl,
add 3 tbsp reserved juice from the
oranges, then leave to cool (you can
add more juice if the caramel sets
too firmly as it cools). Tip the orange
wedges onto a few layers of kitchen
paper, then pat gently with more
kitchen paper to dry them slightly.
6 Remove the cheesecake from the
fridge 30 minutes before serving.
Ease it out of its tin if it resists,
either run a mini blow-torch round
the edge or put it very briefly into a
warm oven to soften the butter in the
crust. Transfer to a serving plate.
Just before serving, pile the orange
wedges on top, drizzle over the
caramel, then slice and serve. NEXT
PER SERVING (FOR 16) 469kcals, MONTH
Celebrate spring
30.3g fat (16.9g saturated), 6.7g
with a menu from
protein, 39.1g carbs (31.8g sugars), Felicity Cloakes
0.3g salt, 2.7g fibre new book.

WorldMags.net deliciousmagazine.co.uk 65
 WorldMags.net

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 the easter weekend.

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THE HERITAGE INGREDIENT

SAFFRON
Painstakingly harvested from crocus owers, saffron has a reputation for being
tricky to cook with. The avour imparted by the orange-red threads is both subtle
and powerful but seasoned cook Debbie Major knows how to make it shine

RECIPES AND FOOD STYLING DEBBIE MAJOR PHOTOGRAPHS ANDREW MONTGOMERY STYLING POLLY WEBB-WILSON

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 WorldMags.net
Saffron has been one
of the worlds most
prized spices for
millennia. It comes
from the gently dried
stigmas of a mauve
species of crocus ower
Crocus sativus and it
takes more than 1,000
owers to produce just 100g saffron. Little
wonder its more expensive per gram than
gold. Its revered in the kitchen for its subtle
yet distinctively earthy, hay-like avours, as
well as for the deep yellow colour it imparts to
food. You have to be careful how much you
use, though, or it can taste medicinal.
Iran produces 90-95 per cent of the worlds
harvest, but its also grown in India, China,
Spain, Greece and North Africa, and on a
small scale in the east of England, where it was
introduced by the Romans. The harvesters
work through the night to pick the owers,
then painstakingly remove two or three
stigmas from each ower head, all by hand.
Buy whole threads, rather than powdered
saffron, for the freshest avour. I like to soak
the saffron in warm water or milk before
using, as this draws out the colour and avour.
Alternatively, toast the strands for 2-3 seconds
in a dry pan, then grind to a powder to use.
Saffron is used in all sorts of dishes think
bouillabaisse from France, risotto Milanese
from Italy and paella from Spain. It works
magic in soups, sweet and savoury breads,
milky puddings and ice cream, sauces and
potato dishes, all of which show off the spices
vibrant colour and complex avour.
THE INGREDIENTS
SAFFRON LOVES
Milk and cream
Rice
Bread
Fish & seafood
Chicken
Potatoes
Cauliower
White chocolate
68 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
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Cornish saffron hot
cross bun loaf
SERVES 10-12. HANDS-ON TIME 40 MIN, OVEN
TIME 40 MIN, PLUS RISING AND PROVING
How the use of saffron in this
rich bread came about is a mystery.
It may have had something to do
with Phoenician sailors who
visited Cornwall to trade for tin
after visiting Lebanon, the Middle
East and North Africa, where the
spice was already a popular
ingredient in their cuisine. Here
Ive taken the idea of the
traditional sweetish, buttery
Cornish bread and turned it into
a hot cross bun loaf to serve over
Easter. Its also fantastic toasted
the next day.
Make the dough the day
MAKE before and let it prove
AHEAD
slowly in the fridge.
Or freeze the baked but unglazed
loaf up to one month in advance,
wrapped generously in cling film.
Warm through in a hot oven for
10 minutes before glazing and
serving as in the recipe.
1 tsp saffron strands (about 4g)
3 tbsp warm water, plus 1 tbsp
(optional)
500g strong plain flour, plus
extra to dust
Generous tsp salt
75g caster sugar
10g easy-blend yeast
175ml whole milk, warmed
2 medium free-range eggs,
beaten
75g salted butter, softened, plus
extra for greasing
Sunflower oil for greasing
75g each currants, raisins and
chopped candied peel, mixed
Clotted cream to serve
FOR THE DECORATION
25g plain flour
1 tsp sunflower oil
2-3 tbsp cold water
FOR THE GLAZE
75ml fresh orange juice
2 tbsp caster sugar or
clear honey
YOULL ALSO NEED
26cm x 12.5cm x 6cm deep (or
similar) 900g loaf tin it should
hold 2 litres water
1 Heat a small frying pan over
a medium-high heat. Add the saffron
and shake it around for a few
seconds until it darkens very slightly.
Tip into a mortar to cool, then grind
into a fine powder with a pestle. Add
the 3 tbsp warm water; leave to cool.
2 Sift the flour, salt, sugar and yeast
into a bowl and make a well in the
centre. Add the saffron water, warm
milk, eggs and 75g softened butter,
then mix lightly with your fingers
until everything comes together into
a slightly sticky (but not wet) dough.
Add the optional tablespoon of water
if the mixture seems a bit dry.
3 Turn the dough out onto a lightly
floured surface and knead for
10 minutes or until silky smooth.
Drop into a lightly oiled bowl, cover
with cling film and leave somewhere
warm to rise for 1-2 hours until
doubled in size. A rich dough such
as this takes a while to rise.
4 Turn the dough out of the bowl
onto a lightly floured surface and
knock out the excess air. Sprinkle
over some of the mixed dried fruit,
knead it in, then repeat until all the
fruit has been incorporated. Return
the dough to the oiled bowl,
re-cover and leave to rise for 1 hour
more or until doubled in size.
 the easter weekend.

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cream for the ultimate
Good Friday treat

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 WorldMags.net
5 Butter the loaf tin. Divide the
dough into 10 even pieces and knead
them into quite tall rounds. Arrange
side-by-side in the tin. Slide the tin
into a large plastic bag and seal,
then leave somewhere warm to
prove for 1 hour or until the dough
has risen to the top of the tin. When
it looks ready, heat the oven to
180C/160C fan/gas 4.
6 For the decoration, mix the flour,
oil and enough of the water to make
a smooth paste. Put the mix into a
plastic piping bag or small plastic
bag, then snip 4-5mm off the corner.
Take the loaf tin out of its bag, then
pipe a cross on top of each dough
ball. Put the loaf into the oven and
bake for 35-40 minutes until golden.
7 When the loaf is nearly ready,
simmer the orange juice and sugar/
honey in a small pan for a few
minutes until it has turned sticky.
8 Remove the loaf from the oven and
turn it out onto a cooling rack. Turn
it the right-side up and brush with the
sticky glaze. Leave to cool before
serving, cut into slices and spread
with clotted cream.
PER SERVING (FOR 12) 329kcals,
7.9g fat (4.2g saturated), 7g protein,
56.4g carbs (21.5g sugars),
0.4g salt, 2.4g fibre
Saffron crme brle tart
SERVES 8-10. HANDS-ON TIME 50 MIN,
OVEN TIME 40 MIN, PLUS CHILLING
The custard creaminess of a
crme brle is the perfect home
for the subtle avour of saffron.
Set in a butter-crisp pastry, this
is a great do-ahead dessert for the
big holiday weekend.
Wrap the pastry dough
MAKE in cling film and keep in
AHEAD
the fridge for up to 24 hours
or the freezer for up to 1 month.
Make the tart up to 24 hours
in advance but omit the brle
topping (step 6) until youre ready
to serve. Keep the tart covered
in the fridge, then let it come
up to room temperature before
sprinkling with the sugar and
brleing the top.
70 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
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FOOD
If you dont have a blow
TEAMS torch, either leave out the
TIPS
brle topping, or sprinkle
the tart with the sugar, then slide
under a hot grill. Youll need to cover
the pastry edges with strips of foil to
prevent them burning while the
sugar caramelises.
FOR THE PASTRY CASE
225g plain flour, plus extra to dust
Pinch salt
65g icing sugar
125g lightly salted butter, chilled,
cut into small pieces
1 large egg yolk
4-5 tsp cold water
FOR THE FILLING
1 tsp saffron strands
100ml whole creamy milk or
Jersey milk
500ml double cream
6 large free-range egg yolks
50g caster sugar, plus 4 tbsp for
the brle topping
YOULL ALSO NEED
23cm x 4cm deep, loose-bottomed
tart tin
1 For the pastry, sift the flour,
salt and icing sugar into a food
processor. Add the butter and
process briefly until the mixture baking sheet. Pour in the crme
looks like fine breadcrumbs. Beat
the egg yolk briefly with 4 tsp water.
Tip the crumbed mixture into a bowl
and stir in the egg yolk/water
mixture to bring the dough together slightly in the centre. Remove
into a ball (add the extra tsp cold
water if its too dry). Turn out onto
a lightly floured surface and knead
briefly until smooth. Chill for 15
minutes, then remove from the
fridge and roll out thinly on a lightly
floured surface. Use the pastry to
line the tart tin, then rest the pastry
case in the fridge for 20 minutes.
2 Put a baking sheet onto the middle
rack of the oven and heat it to
200C/180C fan/gas 6. Line the the caramel has cooled and set
pastry case with foil, fill with baking
beans/uncooked rice, then bake, on
the hot baking sheet, for 15-20
minutes until the edges are
biscuit-coloured. Remove the foil
and beans/rice, protect the edge of
the case with thin strips of foil, then
return it to the oven for another
5 minutes or until the base is crisp
and biscuit brown. Remove and
leave to cool (leave the baking sheet
in the oven). Turn the oven down to
140C/120C fan/gas 2.
3 For the filling, heat a small, clean
frying pan over a medium-high heat.
Add the saffron strands and toss
them around for just a few seconds
until they look very slightly darker.
Tip them into a mortar, leave to cool
and become brittle, then grind the
strands into a fine powder with the
pestle. Heat the milk in a small pan
to almost boiling point, then pour it
onto the saffron powder and stir
well. Leave to cool.
4 Pour the double cream into a clean
pan and bring almost to the boil.
Meanwhile, stir the egg yolks and
50g sugar in a bowl until just
combined. Pour the hot cream onto
the egg yolks, stirring gently with a
whisk, then gently stir in the saffron
milk (you dont want to whisk a lot of
air into the custard). Strain through
a fine sieve into a large jug, then
scrape off and discard any froth
from the top with a spoon.
5 Pull the rack out of the oven and
put the pastry case onto the hot
brle mixture, then carefully slide
the rack back in. Bake for 25-30
minutes until the custard mixture
is softly set it should still wobble
the tart from the oven and leave
it to cool, then chill for at least
2 hours (see Make Ahead).
6 To brle the top of the tart (see
tips), sprinkle the remaining 4 tbsp
caster sugar in a thick, even layer
over the top of the custard. Hold
the flame of a blow torch just
above the surface and caramelise
the sugar, moving it around until
its evenly browned. Leave until
before serving.
PER SERVING (FOR 10) 544kcals,
41.8g fat (24.7g saturated), 5.5g
protein, 36.2g carbs (18.9g sugars),
0.3g salt, 0.9g fibre
 the easter weekend.

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Saffron crme
brle tart

QUICK FIX
Sweet saffron lassi
SERVES 2-3. HANDS-ON TIME 10 MIN
Lightly toast a generous pinch of
saffron strands in a small, clean frying
pan. Cool, then grind to a powder in a
pestle and mortar. Stir in 1 tbsp hot milk
and leave to go cold. Tip into a liquidiser
and add 250ml ice-cold whole creamy
milk or Jersey milk, 500ml Greek-style
natural yogurt (I like Yeo Valley),
tsp cardamom powder (made from
grinding the seeds from 3-4 cardamom
pods in a pestle and mortar), and
3-4 tbsp caster sugar, according to taste.
Blend together in a processor until
slightly frothy. Pour into glasses over
a few ice cubes and garnish with 1 tbsp
finely chopped pistachio nuts.
PER SERVING (FOR 3) 363kcals, 22.5g fat
(13.6g saturated), 13.4g protein, 40g
carbs (39.2g sugars), 0.6g salt, no fibre

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the easter weekend.
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Saffron fish pie
SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 1 HOUR,
OVEN TIME 35-40 MIN
In the past Ive added lightly
cooked shelled mussels and
scallop slices to this pie. For
extra luxury you could use small
peeled langoustine or crayfish tails
in place of the prawns.
NEXT Prepare the filling (to the
MONTH MAKE end of step 4) 24 hours
Debbie cooks AHEAD
ahead. Cool, keep covered
with creamy
milk from the in the fridge, then continue with the
Channel Islands recipe when ready.
72 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
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tsp saffron strands
200ml double cream
300ml whole milk or Jersey milk
1 small onion, thickly sliced
4 fresh bay leaves
500g cod or haddock fillet, skin on
250g undyed smoked cod/haddock
250g salmon fillet, skin on
100g raw North Atlantic prawns,
peeled (from about 300g whole,
unpeeled prawns)
1 tbsp small capers, drained
and rinsed
50g butter
45g plain flour
2 tbsp chopped fresh parsley
FOR THE TOPPING
1.25kg floury potatoes (king
edward or maris piper)
50g butter
1 large free-range egg yolk
1-2 tbsp whole milk
1 Heat a small frying pan over a
medium-high heat. Add the saffron
and shake it around for a few
seconds until it darkens very slightly.
Tip into a mortar and cool, then grind
into a fine powder with the pestle.
2 Put the saffron powder, cream,
milk, onion, bay leaves, white fish,
smoked fish and salmon into a
saucepan. Bring just to the boil,
lower the heat, then simmer for
7-8 minutes until the fish is just
cooked through. Lift the fish onto
a plate and leave it to cool slightly.
Strain the cooking liquid into a jug.
3 Flake the cooked fish into a shallow
2-2.25 litre ovenproof dish, discarding
the skin and any bones. Scatter over
the peeled prawns and the capers.
4 Melt the butter in a clean pan,
add the flour and cook, stirring, for
1 minute. Remove the pan from the
heat, then gradually stir in the
reserved cooking liquid. Return the
pan to the heat and bring to the boil,
stirring, then simmer gently for
5 minutes to reduce slightly and cook
out the flour. Remove from the heat
and stir in the parsley. Season to
taste with salt and white pepper. Pour
the sauce over the fish and leave to
cool uncovered so it forms a skin.
5 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/
gas 6. To make the topping, put the
potatoes in a pan, cover with salted
water, put over a high heat, then bring
to the boil. Cook for 20 minutes or
until tender. Drain well, return to the
pan, then mash until smooth. Beat
in the butter, egg yolk and milk, then
season. Pipe or spoon the mash
over the filling, then bake for 35-40
minutes until browned and bubbling.
PER SERVING 734kcals, 39.9g fat
(22.5g saturated), 42.8g protein,
48.4g carbs (5.4g sugars), 1.2g salt,
5g fibre
WINE EDITORS CHOICE A white
bordeaux, ideally a premium
example from the Graves region.
WorldMags.net

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 WorldMags.net

Same great taste, same servings, now in a

F F E
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o the Facebook Camp

C

s drop in t C
For tasty bakes and drink eC
lub today C
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www.campcoffeeclub.co.uk
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Available from most major supermarkets
WorldMags.net
THE COLLECTORS EDITION

CHOCOLATE

10 OUTSTANDING RECIPES TO PULL OUT AND KEEP

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 WorldMags.net
Our favourite
chocolate
fondants,
page X

II deliciousmagazine.co.uk/chocolate WorldMags.net
 WorldMags.net

Sour cherry and

chocolate simnel
cake with hazelnut
marzipan, page X

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 WorldMags.net
Chocolate truffle
no-churn ice cream in
a banana, peanut and
caramel sundae, page IX

IV deliciousmagazine.co.uk/chocolate WorldMags.net
 WorldMags.net

Pecan and pretzel salted

caramel bars, page IX

WorldMags.net deliciousmagazine.co.uk/chocolate V
 WorldMags.net

Mini melting
chocolate
pastries, page VIII

VI deliciousmagazine.co.uk/chocolate WorldMags.net
 WorldMags.net
Chocolate mousse and
passion fruit tart, page VIII

WorldMags.net deliciousmagazine.co.uk/chocolate VII

 WorldMags.net
Mini melting
chocolate pastries
MAKES AROUND 30. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN,
OVEN TIME 15 MIN, PLUS CHILLING
Cover and chill the unglazed,
MAKE unbaked pastries for 24 hours,
AHEAD
or freeze for 1 month. Glaze,
then bake (if baking from frozen, cook
for an extra 2 minutes).
320g pack ready-rolled all-butter
puff pastry
100g bar dark chocolate (70% cocoa
solids)
1 medium free-range egg, beaten
Demerara sugar to sprinkle
Dark and white chocolate, melted
separately, to decorate
1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/
gas 6. Unroll the pastry onto a work
surface. Using a rolling pin, gently roll
it out to the thickness of a 1 coin. Cut
the pastry in half, widthways, then
break the chocolate into its individual
pieces and distribute evenly over 1 piece
of pastry, leaving a 1cm gap between
each piece of chocolate and at the edges.
2 Brush between the chocolate pieces
with beaten egg, then lay the other
piece of pastry over the top. Use your
fingers to press down the pastry around
the chocolate, pushing out the air.
3 Using a sharp knife, cut the pastry into
even pieces, leaving a border around
each chocolate piece. Put on a non-
stick baking sheet, brush with beaten
egg to glaze, press down the edges with
a fork to seal, then chill for 30 minutes.
4 Glaze again, then sprinkle with sugar
and bake for 15 minutes or until golden.
Cool for 2 minutes, drizzle with melted
chocolate, then serve warm.
PER PASTRY 81kcals, 5.1g fat (2.6g
saturated), 1.3g protein, 7.4g carbs
(3.3g sugars), 0.1g salt, 0.5g fibre
VIII deliciousmagazine.co.uk/chocolate
Chocolate mousse
and passion fruit tart
SERVES 12-16. HANDS-ON TIME 50 MIN,
PLUS CHILLING
This will happily sit in the
MAKE fridge overnight. Bring to room
AHEAD
temperature before serving.
Passion fruit are at their
KNOW- ripest when their skins
HOW
have turned wrinkly.
To prevent the mousse mixture
FOOD
TEAMS from splitting when you add
TIPS
the egg yolks and passion fruit
at the end of step 2, make sure the
melted chocolate mixture has cooled
completely. If it splits, whisk in some of
the cold, unwhipped cream. It may look
grainy but it will come good in the fridge.
If you have a blowtorch, you can briefly
run it over the top of the finished tart to
give it a professional-looking glaze.
FOR THE BASE
Sunflower oil for greasing
350g Oreo biscuits
2 tbsp cocoa powder
110g unsalted butter, melted
FOR THE MOUSSE
200g dark chocolate (at least 70%
cocoa solids), chopped into chunks
200g good quality milk chocolate,
chopped into chunks
60g light muscovado sugar
75g unsalted butter
2 medium free-range egg yolks
Pulp from 5 passion fruit, whizzed in
a food processor, then sieved and
seeds discarded, plus extra passion
fruit pulp to serve
300ml whipping cream, cold
FOR THE GANACHE TOPPING
200g dark chocolate, at least 70%
cocoa solids, broken into small pieces
65g unsalted butter
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60ml (4 tbsp) liquid glucose (available
in the baking aisle of supermarkets)
YOULL ALSO NEED
25cm loose-bottomed fluted
tart tin
1 To make the base, lightly oil the tart
tin. Put the Oreos and cocoa powder in
a food processor and whizz until finely
ground. With the motor running, pour
in the melted butter and whizz until the
mixture resembles wet sand. Press
the mixture over the base and up the
sides of the tin to form a compacted
crust (depending on the depth of your
tin you might have some mixture left
its great crumbled over ice cream).
Chill while you make the filling.
2 For the mousse, put the dark and milk
chocolates, sugar and butter in a large
heatproof bowl set over a pan of
steaming (not bubbling) water. Heat
gently, stirring once or twice, until
melted, smooth and thick. Take off the
heat, cool until at room temperature
(see tips), then whisk in the egg yolks
and passion fruit pulp.
3 In a separate mixing bowl, whisk the
cream until softly pillowy, then fold
2 spoonfuls into the chocolate mixture
using a balloon whisk. Fold in the
remaining cream in thirds, being
careful not to knock out the air. Spoon
the mixture into the tart case, then
chill for 3-4 hours or overnight until
completely set.
4 To make the ganache topping, put
the chocolate, butter and glucose in
a heatproof bowl set over a pan of
gently steaming water (dont let the
water touch the base of the bowl) and
melt gently, without stirring, until
smooth. Stir briefly to combine, then
leave for 5 minutes to cool a little.
5 Pour the ganache over the set
chocolate mousse, tipping the tart
to distribute it evenly dont stir or
spread it, or youll ruin the shine.
Chill the tart for 1 hour or overnight
(see Make Ahead). Take out of the
fridge 30 minutes before serving it with
the extra passion fruit pulp (see tips).
PER SERVING (FOR 16) 528kcals,
36.6g fat (21.6g saturated), 4.5g
protein, 44g carbs (34.7g sugars),
0.3g salt, 2g fibre
 WorldMags.net
Edd Kimbers pecan and
pretzel salted caramel bars
MAKES 12. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, OVEN TIME
30 MIN, PLUS AT LEAST 4 HOURS COOLING
FOR THE SHORTBREAD BASE
160g unsalted butter, diced and
chilled, plus extra to grease
160g plain flour
60g caster sugar
Pinch sea salt flakes
1 tsp vanilla bean paste
FOR THE PECAN SALTED CARAMEL
200g pecans
300g caster sugar
200ml double cream
100g unsalted butter, diced
1 tsp sea salt flakes
FOR THE TOPPING
50g dark chocolate
50g salted pretzels
YOULL ALSO NEED
Sugar thermometer or digital probe
thermometer
1 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/
gas 6. Lightly grease a 20cm square
cake tin and line crossways with 2 strips
of baking paper so the ends overhang.
2 For the shortbread base, put the flour,
sugar and salt in a food processor and
pulse to combine. Add the 160g butter
and the vanilla, then whizz until it
resembles coarse breadcrumbs. Tip
into the cake tin, then use your hands
to press into an even layer. Chill for
30 minutes, then prick the base with
a fork. Bake for 30 minutes or until
pale golden brown. Set aside to cool.
3 For the caramel, put the pecans in
a baking tray and toast in the oven for
about 10 minutes or until fragrant. Tip
onto a chopping board and roughly chop.
4 Put the sugar into a medium saucepan
and cook over a medium heat, without
stirring, until melted and caramelised.
Take off the heat and carefully add the
cream in 2 batches (it may spit), waiting
until the bubbling has subsided before
adding more. Stir in the butter and salt.
5 Return to the heat and cook, stirring
occasionally, until the caramel reaches
116C on a sugar thermometer or digital
probe thermometer. Immediately take
off the heat, add the chopped pecans,
mixing briefly to combine, then pour
over the shortbread and spread it
evenly with a spatula. Set aside for at
least 4 hours (or overnight) to cool.
6 For the topping, melt the chocolate
in a heatproof bowl set over a pan of
simmering water (dont let the water
touch the bowl), then drizzle or pipe it
over the bars. Press the pretzels into
the chocolate to finish. Let the chocolate
set before cutting into bars. Theyll
keep in a sealed container for 2 days.
PER BAR 590kcals, 41.1g fat (19.3g
saturated), 4.3g protein, 49.8g carbs
(36.1g sugars), 0.7g salt, 1.9g fibre
Edd (theboywhobakes.co.uk) regularly
appears in delicious. as a baking expert.
Chocolate truffle
no-churn ice cream
MAKES 1-1.2 LITRES. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN,
PLUS FREEZING
The ice cream will keep in the
MAKE freezer, in a sealed container,
AHEAD
for up to 1 month.
This easy chocolate ice cream
FOOD
TEAMS is essentially a frozen truffle
TIPS
mixture. If youre serving it
as a sundae (see right and above) or
with another pud we recommend
freezing it in balls (its easy to scoop
unfrozen) on trays. Its also great
unfrozen, served as a chilled mousse-
like dessert or eaten, frozen, straight
from the bowl as a late-night treat.
WorldMags.net
300g dark chocolate, preferably 70%
cocoa solids, chopped into chunks
397g tin condensed milk
500ml double cream
100g milk chocolate, chopped into
small chunks
1 Put the dark chocolate into a
heatproof bowl set over a pan of gently
steaming, not quite simmering water
(dont let the water touch the bowl).
Leave to melt for 8-10 minutes, stirring
only once or twice, until smooth. Leave
to cool to just above room temperature,
then stir in the condensed milk.
2 Put the double cream in a mixing bowl,
then softly whip until pillowy and just
holding its peaks. Drizzle with the
condensed milk mixture, folding it in
with a balloon whisk as you go. Once
combined, fold in the milk chocolate
chunks, transfer to a freezerproof
sealable container (try not to knock out
the air) and freeze for at least 8 hours
(see tips). Bring out of the freezer
10 minutes before serving, to soften.
PER SERVING (PER 65G SCOOP)
290kcals, 20.8g fat (12.8g saturated),
2.9g protein, 22.6g carbs (22.5g sugars),
0.1g salt, 0.6g fibre
Banana, peanut and caramel
chocolate ice cream sundae
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 25 MIN
Put a heavy-based frying pan over a
medium heat and add 200g caster
sugar and 100ml water. Heat gently
without stirring until the sugar
melts, then turn up the heat and boil
to a rich red caramel.
Add 3 just-ripe bananas, peeled
and diagonally sliced, along with 50g
butter, then cook until golden and
caramelised on one side. Turn and
cook on the other side. Stir a handful
of salted roasted peanuts into the
caramel, being careful not to nudge
the bananas too much. Once the
bananas are golden and cooked
through, lift them onto a plate, then
add 75g crme frache and a large
splash of rum, beer or brandy to the
caramel. Stir to combine.
Layer balls of chocolate ice cream
in sundae glasses with caramelised
bananas and warm peanut caramel,
adding a few extra dollops of crme
frache if you like. Serve immediately.
PER SERVING 524kcals, 24.5g fat
(12.8g saturated), 4.9g protein,
65.6g carbs (63.8g sugars), 0.4g salt,
2g fibre
deliciousmagazine.co.uk/chocolate IX
 WorldMags.net
Our favourite
chocolate fondants
SERVES 8. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN,
OVEN TIME 15 MIN
At the end of step 2, chill the
MAKE fondants overnight or freeze for
AHEAD
up to 1 month. If chilling, bring
to room temperature to bake. If freezing,
bake from frozen for 19-20 minutes.
225g lightly salted butter, plus 25g
melted butter for brushing
Cocoa powder for dusting
300g dark chocolate, at least 70%
cocoa solids, broken into pieces
400g caster sugar
tsp vanilla extract
5 large free-range eggs, beaten
220g plain flour
YOULL ALSO NEED
8 x 175ml metal pudding basins
1 Brush inside the basins with melted
butter, then add a spoon of cocoa
powder to one and shake gently to coat.
Tip any excess cocoa into the next basin
and repeat, adding extra cocoa as
needed, until all the moulds are coated.
2 Put the chocolate and 225g butter in a
heavy-based saucepan,then melt over
a low heat, stirring occasionally, until
smooth and glossy. Whisk in the sugar,
then the vanilla, then the eggs, one by
one. Gently fold in the flour, then divide
among the basins (see Make Ahead).
3 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/
gas 4. Put the basins in a baking tray and
bake for 17 minutes exactly. Remove
from the oven, leave for 30 seconds, then
run a knife around the edges and invert
onto serving plates. Serve with vanilla
ice cream, cream or crme frache.
PER FONDANT 789kcals, 40.6g fat (23.9g
saturated), 10.5g protein, 94.1g carbs
(72.7g sugars), 0.8g salt, 2.5g fibre
X deliciousmagazine.co.uk/chocolate
John Whaites sour cherry
and chocolate simnel cake
with hazelnut marzipan
SERVES 12-16. HANDS ON TIME 40 MIN,
OVEN TIME 1 HOUR, PLUS COOLING
Make the cake up to 48 hours in
MAKE advance, then keep in a sealed
AHEAD
container (not in the fridge).
PLEASE NOTE Contains raw egg
120g unsalted butter, softened, plus
extra to grease
100g caster sugar
300g dark brown muscovado sugar
135g (when drained) cherries in kirsch
100g full-fat Greek yogurt
4 large free-range eggs
320g self-raising flour
80g cocoa powder
1 tsp bicarbonate of soda
200ml cherry juice drink
(or pomegranate juice)
250g dried sour cherries
FOR THE MARZIPAN
1 large egg
75g caster sugar
80g icing sugar
15g liquid glucose (from the baking
section in supermarkets)
1 tbsp brandy, rum or vodka
200g blanched hazelnuts, finely
ground in a food processor
FOR THE GANACHE
100g Bournville chocolate
100ml double cream
50g Nutella
Cocoa powder for dusting
YOULL ALSO NEED
23cm x 8-10cm deep cake tin
1 Heat the oven to 170C/150C fan/
gas 3. Grease and line the base and
sides of a deep 23cm cake tin.
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2 For the marzipan, put the egg,
sugar, icing sugar and glucose into
a heatproof mixing bowl and set
over a pan of barely simmering water.
Beat with a handheld electric mixer
until very pale and fluffy about
5 minutes. Remove from the heat and
beat in the alcohol, then tip in the
ground hazelnuts and mix to a thick
paste using a wooden spoon. Using
your hands, knead the mixture
vigorously for 1-2 minutes until fairly
smooth. It wont be as smooth as regular
marzipan, but it will come together.
Wrap in cling film and set aside.
3 Put the butter, sugars, drained
cherries and yogurt in a food processor.
Whizz until mixed, then add the
remaining ingredients, except the sour
cherries, and whizz to a smooth batter.
Add the dried sour cherries and pulse
until just incorporated.
4 Tear off two thirds of the marzipan
and carefully roll between 2 pieces of
baking paper into a disc just smaller
than the cake tin (the hazelnut
marzipan is more fragile than regular
almond marzipan). Roll the remaining
marzipan into 11 equal balls.
5 Pour half the cake batter into the tin,
then top with the marzipan disc. Pour
in the remaining cake batter, then bake
for 90 minutes or until a skewer pushed
into the middle comes out clean.
6 To make the ganache, roughly chop
the chocolate and put it in a heatproof
bowl with the cream. Set the bowl over
a pan of barely simmering water (dont
let the water touch the bowl) and stir
together until you have a smooth,
glossy ganache. Remove from the heat
and beat in the Nutella. Leave to cool at
room temperature until spreadable.
7 When the cake comes out of the oven,
allow it to cool completely in the tin,
then invert onto a cake stand. Spread
the ganache over the top, then
arrange the 11 balls of marzipan
around the edge. Sift a little extra
cocoa powder over the top to finish.
PER SERVING (FOR 16) 552kcals,
24.5g fat (9.7g saturated), 9.6g protein,
70.6g carbs (53.7g sugars), 0.5g salt,
4.2g fibre
GBBO champ John (johnwhaite.com) has
opened a cookery school in Lancashire.
His third book is out next month.
 WorldMags.net
Chocolate porter
cake, page XV

WorldMags.net deliciousmagazine.co.uk/chocolate XI
 WorldMags.net

Chocolate and
hazelnut sharing
loaf, page XV

XII deliciousmagazine.co.uk/chocolate WorldMags.net

WorldMags.net Chocolate coffee
meringue roulade,
page XVI

WorldMags.net deliciousmagazine.co.uk/chocolate XIII

 WorldMags.net
Hot cross bun
brownies, page XVI

XIV deliciousmagazine.co.uk/chocolate WorldMags.net

 WorldMags.net
Chocolate porter cake
SERVES 12-16. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN,
OVEN TIME 1 HOUR, PLUS COOLING
The un-iced cake will keep for
MAKE up to 2 days in a container in
AHEAD
a cool place. It will keep frozen,
wrapped in cling film, for up to 1 month.
Sunflower oil for greasing
260ml porter (we like St Peters
Old-Style Porter)
250g unsalted butter
100g dark chocolate (70% cocoa
solids), chopped into chunks
50g cocoa powder
200g caster sugar
200g soft light brown sugar
2 large free-range eggs
150g full-fat Greek yogurt
2 tsp vanilla bean extract
280g plain flour
2 tsp bicarbonate of soda
FOR THE TOPPING
200g full-fat cream cheese (we like
Philadelphia)
80g icing sugar
200ml double cream
YOULL ALSO NEED
Deep 23cm loose-bottomed cake tin
1 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/
gas 4. Grease a deep 23cm loose-
bottomed cake tin and line with baking
paper. In a large pan, gently warm the
porter, butter and chocolate until the
butter and chocolate have melted.
2 Mix the cocoa powder and sugars
in a large bowl, rubbing away lumps.
Pour in the chocolate mixture gradually,
whisking well using a balloon whisk,
then add the eggs. Whisk until its thick
and smooth, then whisk in the yogurt,
vanilla, flour and bicarbonate of soda.
3 Pour the batter into the lined tin and
bake for 1 hour or until a skewer comes
out clean. Leave for 5 minutes, then
turn out onto a wire rack to cool.
4 Meanwhile, in a large bowl, beat the
topping ingredients with an electric
mixer until the mix just holds its shape.
Swirl the icing on top of the cooled cake.
PER SERVING (FOR 16) 464kcals,
26.6g fat (16.5g saturated), 5.8g
protein, 48.4g carbs (34.6g sugars),
0.5g salt, 1.4g fibre
Richard Bertinets
chocolate and hazelnut
sharing loaf
SERVES 12. HANDS-ON TIME 1 HOUR,
OVEN TIME 25 MIN, PLUS 1 HOUR 45 MIN RISING
AND 30 MIN PROVING
Prepare the dough up to the
MAKE end of step 3. Put in a lightly
AHEAD
greased bowl and cover with
cling film. Chill for up to 12 hours.
250g whole milk
15g fresh or 7g fast-action dried
yeast
70g unsalted butter, softened
500g strong bread flour, plus extra
10g salt
50g caster sugar
2 large free-range eggs
FOR THE FILLING
200g whole hazelnuts
80g mixed peel
Zest 1 orange
150g milk chocolate chips
FOR THE EGG WASH
1 free-range egg, beaten
1 Warm the milk in a small pan over
a low heat to blood temperature. In a
large mixing bowl, rub the fresh yeast
into the flour (or stir in if youre using
dried), rub in the butter, then stir
WorldMags.net
in the remaining ingredients.
2 On a lightly floured work surface,
knead the dough using the Bertinet
method [see deliciousmagazine.co.uk/
bertinet-kneads] until it starts to feel
elastic. Keep working it until it comes
cleanly away from the work surface and
is silky and smooth (10-15 minutes).
3 Dust the work surface again with
flour and shape the dough into a ball
by folding each edge in turn into the
centre and pressing down with your
thumb, rotating the ball as you go. Turn
the ball over and stretch and tuck the
edges under. Put into a bowl and cover
with a tea towel. Leave for 1 hour in
a draught-free place until roughly
doubled in size. (See Make Ahead.)
4 While the dough is rising, make the
filling. Gently toast the hazelnuts in a
dry frying pan. Tip out into a sturdy
bowl and allow to cool, then crush with
the end of a rolling pin. Add the mixed
peel, zest and chocolate chips to the
crushed hazelnuts and mix together.
5 Turn out the dough onto the work
surface with the smooth side facing
down and open it up gently so you can
add the filling. Push the filling into
the dough, then roll the dough onto
itself to mix in the filling so its evenly
distributed. Form the dough into a ball,
return to the bowl, cover with cling film
and leave to rise for 45 minutes.
6 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/
gas 6. Divide the dough into 12 roughly
equal pieces and shape into small
balls. Line a baking tray with baking
paper. Place 6 balls on the paper in
a circular, flower petal arrangement,
then surround with the remaining 6.
All the balls should be touching a couple
of the others so as they bake they meld
together into a tear-and-share loaf.
Cover loosely with cling film and leave
to prove for 30 minutes or until puffed.
7 For the egg wash, mix the beaten
egg with a pinch of salt, then brush a
thin layer over the loaf. Repeat, then
bake for 20-25 minutes. Remove and
allow to cool before sharing.
PER SERVING 450kcals, 22.1g fat (7.2g
saturated), 12g protein, 49.2g carbs
(15.9g sugars), 1.1g salt, 3.1g fibre
Richard is an authority on bread and pastry
and runs a world-renowned cookery
school in Bath (bertinetkitchen.com).
deliciousmagazine.co.uk/chocolate XV
 WorldMags.net
Chocolate cofee
meringue roulade
SERVES 8-10. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN,
OVEN TIME 28-32 MIN, PLUS CHILLING
Sunflower oil for greasing
6 medium free-range egg whites
330g golden caster sugar
2 tbsp plain flour
60g ground almonds
1 tbsp espresso coffee powder
dissolved in 1 tsp boiling water
Handful flaked almonds
Dark chocolate, melted,
to drizzle
FOR THE CHOCOLATE SPREAD
200g dark chocolate (70% cocoa
solids), chopped into chunks
50g salted butter
120ml double cream
tsp sea salt flakes
FOR THE CREAM FILLING
200ml double cream
40g icing sugar
1 tsp espresso coffee powder,
dissolved in 1 tsp boiling water
1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/
gas 6. Line a 23cm x 33cm lipped swiss
roll tin or baking tray with baking
paper, then lightly oil the paper.
2 In a large clean bowl, whisk the egg
whites with an electric mixer until thick,
glossy and holding medium peaks. On
a low speed, whisk in the sugar, a little
at a time, then add the flour, ground
almonds and coffee until just combined.
3 Spread the meringue evenly into the
tin, scatter over the flaked almonds,
then bake for 8 minutes. Lower the
oven temperature to 160C/140C fan/
gas 4 and cook for a further 20-25
RECIPES REBECCA WOOLLARD, LOTTIE COVELL, RICHARD BERTINET, PAUL A YOUNG, JOHN WHAITE, EDD KIMBER
PHOTOGRAPHS TOBY SCOTT FOOD STYLING REBECCA WOOLLARD STYLING OLIVIA WARDLE
XVI deliciousmagazine.co.uk/chocolate
minutes. Lift the meringue from the tin
on its paper and cool for 10 minutes on
a wire rack, then invert onto another
piece of baking paper to cool completely.
4 Meanwhile, make the chocolate
spread: melt the chocolate in a heatproof
bowl over a pan of simmering water
(dont let the water touch the bowl).
When melted, add the butter and stir
gently, then leave to cool for 15 minutes.
Add the cream gradually, beating
between additions with a balloon
whisk, then add the salt. Spread evenly
over the cooled meringue, then chill
the whole dessert for 15 minutes.
5 For the cream filling, put the cream,
icing sugar and coffee in a clean mixing
bowl. Whisk with an electric mixer until
it starts to thicken. Continue in bursts
until you get soft peaks (that fall over).
6 Spread the cream on top of the
chocolate spread. Starting with a short
edge, carefully roll up the meringue,
using the baking paper to help. Wrap
the paper tightly around and chill for at
least 3 hours. To serve, put on a plate,
drizzle with melted chocolate and slice.
PER SERVING (FOR 10) 529kcals, 31.9g
fat (17.4g saturated), 5.9g protein, 54g
carbs (51.2g sugars), 0.5g salt, 0.9g fibre
Paul A Youngs
hot cross bun brownies
MAKES 16-25, DEPENDING ON SIZE.
HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN, OVEN TIME 35-40 MIN,
PLUS COOLING AND CHILLING OVERNIGHT
These will keep for 2 weeks,
MAKE chilled in an airtight container.
AHEAD
Eat at room temperature.
If youre not making the
FOOD
TEAMS brownies for Easter, try
TIP
substituting the hot cross buns
with pieces of honeycomb, biscuit
WorldMags.net
or pretzel and leave out the spices.
You could pipe melted white chocolate
crosses over each brownie to create
a festive hot cross bun appearance.
175g salted butter
80g golden syrup
280g golden caster sugar
1 tbsp ground cinnamon
1 tbsp freshly grated nutmeg
320g dark chocolate (70% cocoa),
chopped into small pieces
4 medium free-range eggs, beaten
70g plain flour
2-3 hot cross buns, split, toasted
and cooled (see tip)
YOULL ALSO NEED
20cm square cake tin
1 Melt the butter and syrup in a large
saucepan over a medium heat. Add the
sugar and spices, then simmer for 3-4
minutes until dissolved. Take off the
heat, add the chocolate and mix with
a wooden spoon. Add the beaten egg
and mix in until smooth. Finally, add
the flour and beat until incorporated.
2 Line a 20cm square tin with baking
paper. Tear the toasted hot cross buns
into rough 2cm square pieces and
scatter them into the tin.
3 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/
gas 4. Spoon the brownie mix into the
tin and allow to stand for 15 minutes so
the mix settles over and into the buns.
4 Bake for 35-40 minutes until gently
set and wobbly in the middle. Dont be
tempted to leave the brownies in the
oven longer than the cooking time as
theyll become dry.
5 Allow to cool, then chill overnight.
The next day, turn out, remove the
baking paper and trim the edges (for
nibbling!). Turn the right way up and cut
into squares to serve. A knife dipped in
hot water will make this much easier.
PER BROWNIE (FOR 25) 212kcals,
10.7g fat (6.3g saturated), 2.6g
protein, 25.8g carbs (22.4g sugars),
0.2g salt, 1g fibre
What Paul doesnt know about chocolate
isnt worth knowing. His London shops
(paulayoung.co.uk) are sweet havens.
 reader event.

WorldMags.net A NIGHT TO
REMEMBER
Hang out with the
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in his flagship
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restaurant

JOIN US
FOR DINNER
WITH PETER
GORDON
This is going to be one special evening An exclusive night of innovative cooking by top chef
Peter Gordon, exclusively for delicious. readers, at his celebrated London restaurant

T
he king of fusion food is about to launch a new
book, and to celebrate, Peter Gordon is inviting
you to The Providores, his flagship restaurant in
Marylebone, for an intimate evening of food and chat.
The night will begin with fizz and canaps, followed by
a four-course dinner with expertly matched New Zealand
wines. Peter will explain the origin of each dish, and
there will be time for guests to talk to the gregarious
Kiwi chef over coffee and petits fours. Karen Barnes,
editor of delicious., will be on hand for a chat too. It will
be a night of great flavours and lasting memories.
Peters new book, Savour: Salads for all Seasons
(25; Jacqui Small), is out on 21 April.
WHERE The Providores,
109 Marylebone High Street, London W1
WHEN 710.30pm, Wednesday 4 May 2016
COST 95 (includes sparkling wine and
canaps, a four-course dinner with wine
and service, plus a signed cookbook and
a bag of goodies to take home)
HOW TO BOOK To snap up your tickets, visit
deliciousmagazine.co.uk/petergordon

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Nathan Outlaws guide to

THE BEST
SEAFOOD
Despite his name, hes one of the good guys especially when it comes
to giving fish the respect it deserves. The delicious. team travelled to his
adopted home, Cornwall, to sample the sublime cooking of the gentle giant

Megrim sole with grape

dressing and roast
garlic & potato pure, p82

PHOTOGRAPHS GARETH MORGANS FOOD STYLING LOTTIE COVELL STYLING OLIVIA WARDLE INTERVIEW FIONA BECKETT

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MEET THE CHEF
Nathan was born in Kent but
has been living and cooking
in Cornwall for years, where
he has a mini-empire of
restaurants. His flagship is
the two Michelin-starred
Restaurant Nathan Outlaw
in Port Isaac. He also has
more casual places to eat
in Rock and Port Isaac and
an outpost at the Capital
Hotel in London. Its
a business to rival that of
his mentor Rick Stein. Hes
written two cookbooks on
fish, with a third, Everyday
Seafood, out next month.

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N
athan Outlaw, all 6ft 5in of him, sits behind
his plate of fish beaming. The food stylist
beams, the photographer beams, we all
beam. Nathans known as one of the nicest chefs
in the business and his grin is infectious. Hes like
a real-life Captain Birds Eye.
Hearing his soft burr youd think he was a
Cornishman, but he was born in Kent and restaurants
are in his blood. His dad was a chef and Nathan started
working for him at 14 (hes still only 38). He left school
Crispy hake with
cauliflower at 16, went to catering college and did time with some
pure, apples of Londons top chefs before moving to Cornwall to
and walnuts, p80 work with Rick Stein in Padstow.
It was there he met his wife Rachel, a local girl. They
set up a restaurant together, where he was awarded a
Michelin star at the tender age of 25, and two Michelin
stars when he moved it to the St Enodoc hotel in nearby
Rock seven years later. Port Isaac became the couples
permanent base in late 2014. A fish restaurant has to be
some place where there is a fishing community. I moved
to secure my familys future. Its just me and my wife
no investors or anything,
he says proudly.
I taste all the Unusually, the restaurant
fish raw when has a no-choice menu
based entirely on seafood.
it comes in at Why limit himself in that
the back door way? Turns out he has an
almost geeky love of fish
before I decide the look, the preparation,
what Im going the satisfaction of working
to do with it with local produce
I love meat and vegetables
but they dont challenge
me like seafood. Prepping fish is therapeutic. Its
a craft skill but a dying one. And I do it very fast!
Nathan only
uses fish caught by Cue the boyish grin again.
small day boats Youve got to know your fish, he says. We only
buy off small day-boats that fish sustainably. I talk
to the fishermen and take advantage of the best of
whats available. For example, March is good for brill,
turbot and lemon sole. I taste all the fish raw when
it comes in at the back door before I decide what Im
going to do with it. In Cornwall we get 30 varieties
of fish that are good enough to go on the menu.
Nathan produces surprisingly delicate, elegant-
looking plates and it turns out he has an artistic
bent. Art has always been an interest. I was
forever drawing when I was a kid and it was
one of my possible career options at school.
Considering hes achieved almost everything he
wanted to achieve well before hes reached 40, does
he have any unfulfilled ambitions? He thinks for a
minute. Id like to go back and learn about animation.
Ive always loved the Disney cartoons Old Mickey
Mouse, Looney Tunes Watch out for the Nathan
Outlaw Cartoon Channel in 20 years time.

78 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
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Soused sardines
with red cabbage and
seaweed salad
cream, p82

NATHANS GUIDE TO BUYING

SUSTAINABLY CAUGHT FISH
O If you dont have a local fishmonger,
you can buy fresher fish online than
youll find in most supermarkets
try wingofstmawes.co.uk or fishfor
thought.co.uk.
O If your fishmonger cant tell you
where your fish was caught theyre
not a good person to buy from.
O Look out for fish from day boats
certified by the Responsible Fishing
Scheme (seafish.org/rfs).
O Go for fish identified as sustainable
by the Cornwall Good Seafood Guide
(cornwallgoodseafoodguide.org.uk)
or that carry the Marine Stewardship
Council (MSC) label. Download the
app at goodfishguide.org.

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Squid, fennel and
chorizo salad with
orange oil
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN,
PLUS OVERNIGHT INFUSING
This makes more orange
oil than you need, but its great
drizzled over all sorts of salads
or stirred into homemade
mayonnaise for shellfish.
For how to segment an
FOOD
TEAMS orange, see delicious
TIPS
magazine.co.uk/orange-
segments. Ask your fishmonger
to prepare the squid for you or
see deliciousmagazine.co.uk/
prep-squid.
2 fennel bulbs, trimmed
1 large or 2 medium oranges,
cut into segments (see tips)
Olive oil for cooking
200g cooking chorizo, sliced
200g squid, prepared into rings,
tentacles and wings (see tips)
2 tsp chopped fresh chives
FOR THE ORANGE OIL (MAKES ABOUT 200ML)
Thinly pared zest 2 oranges (use
the oranges above)
150ml light rapeseed oil
50ml light olive oil
1 For the orange oil, whizz all
the ingredients in a blender for
2 minutes. Pour into a jug and
leave to infuse for 24 hours. Strain
the oil through 2 layers of muslin or
a clean J-cloth, discarding the pulp.
Keep chilled in a sealed jar and use
within 1 month (see introduction).
2 Finely slice the fennel (use a
mandoline if you have one), then
soak in iced water for 20 minutes
to firm it up and make it crisp.
Drain, pat dry and put in a serving
bowl or on a serving platter with
the orange segments.
3 Heat a frying pan over a high
heat and drizzle in a little olive oil.
When hot, add the chorizo and fry
for 2-3 minutes or until crisp, then
add the squid and fry for a further
minute. Season with salt and
pepper. Tip the chorizo and squid
80 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
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into the bowl or onto the serving
platter with the fennel and orange
segments. Add the chives and
toss together. Taste and adjust
the seasoning if necessary,
then drizzle with 5 tbsp of the
orange oil and serve.
PER SERVING 407kcals, 34.3g fat
(6.8g saturated), 16.4g protein,
6.7g carbs (6.5g sugars), 1.4g salt,
3.1g fibre
WINE EDITORS CHOICE
Chill a modern, zesty Spanish white
for this a verdejo from the Rueda
region is especially good.
Crispy hake with
cauliflower pure,
apples and walnuts
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 45 MIN,
PLUS MARINATING
Make the cauliflower
MAKE pure up to 24 hours
AHEAD
in advance, keep chilled
and covered, then warm through
before serving.
This recipe makes more
FOOD
TEAMS dressing than youll need.
TIPS
Keep leftovers chilled for up
to 2 weeks in a sealed jar.
Using gluten-free flour and
pilsner (if you cant find Sharps,
any pilsner is fine) gives a light
batter that crisps beautifully and
wont go soggy out of the fryer.
Find gluten-free flour in all major
supermarkets (we used Doves
Farm, widely available).
1 medium cauliflower
4 sustainable hake fillets, about
150g each, skinned and pin-boned
(ask your fishmonger to do this if
youre not confident)
2 tbsp chopped fresh coriander
leaves, plus a few whole sprigs
Finely grated zest 1 lime
tsp ground cumin
tsp cayenne pepper
200g gluten-free flour
(see tips)
220ml Sharps Cornish pilsner
beer (see tips)
Light rapeseed oil for cooking
60g unsalted butter
2 crisp British eating apples
200g walnuts, toasted on a baking
sheet in a medium oven until
fragrant, then roughly chopped
2 tbsp chopped fresh chives
Around 1-2 litres sunflower oil for
deep-frying
FOR THE DIJON DRESSING
1 banana shallot, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
2 tsp dijon mustard
4 tsp white wine vinegar or cider
vinegar
150ml sunflower oil
YOULL ALSO NEED
Digital probe thermometer
1 For the dijon dressing, put the
shallot, garlic, mustard and vinegar
into a bowl. Whisk for 1 minute,
then trickle in the oil, whisking
continuously. Once all the oil has
been incorporated and the dressing
has emulsified (thickened), season
with salt and pepper and set aside.
2 Prepare the cauliflower by cutting
off and discarding the thick base,
then dividing it into florets. Thinly
slice a quarter of the florets
lengthways, then put them into
a bowl and reserve for the salad.
Roughly chop the remainder of
the florets for the pure.
3 Cut each hake fillet into 4 equal-
size pieces. Mix the chopped
coriander, lime zest, cumin, cayenne
and a good pinch of salt in a bowl.
Add the hake and toss to coat. Leave
to marinate for 30 minutes in the
fridge (covered) or somewhere cool.
4 To make the batter, put the flour
in a mixing bowl and pour in the
beer, mixing constantly with a balloon
whisk until smooth. Season with
salt, then keep covered in the fridge.
5 Heat a lidded saucepan over
a medium heat and add a drizzle
of oil and the butter. Once the butter
has melted, add the roughly
chopped cauliflower and cook for
2 minutes, stirring, so it doesnt
colour. Add just enough water to
cover the cauliflower, bring to a
simmer, then put the lid on. Cook
for 10 minutes or until tender,
checking the water level
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Squid, fennel
and chorizo
salad with
orange oil

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TEAM
FAVOURITE
Rebecca
Woollard,
food editor
Im not the
biggest fan of
sardines or
pickled fish,
so I wasnt
expecting to like
this, but wowzers
I was wrong! Its
amazing. We
devoured it in the
test kitchen in
minutes. Just occasionally to make sure it
make sure you doesnt go dry. Drain the
serve it with
bread for cauliflower, put in a blender,
mopping up all then whizz until smooth (or whizz
the juices. in the pan using a stick blender).
Put back in the pan if necessary,
then cover (see Make Ahead).
6 Peel, core and thinly slice the
apples. Add to the reserved thinly
sliced cauliflower, sprinkle in the
coriander sprigs, walnuts and
chopped chives, then toss together.
7 Heat the oil in a deep-fat fryer or
other suitable deep, heavy-based
pan to 180C when tested with a
digital thermometer. Dip each piece
of fish into the batter to coat, shaking
off any excess, then carefully lower
them into the hot oil and deep-fry
for 3-4 minutes until cooked and
crisp (you will need to do this in
batches). Carefully lift out the fish,
drain on kitchen paper, then season
all over with salt and pepper. Keep
the fish warm while you fry the rest.
8 To serve, reheat the cauliflower
pure, then spoon onto 4 warmed
plates. Dress the cauliflower and
apple salad with the mustard
dressing and place next to the
pure. Place 3-4 pieces of the
crispy hake per portion onto the
pure and serve immediately.
PER SERVING 841kcals, 51.4g fat
(12.4g saturated), 41.6g protein,
47.4g carbs (15.4g sugars),
0.5g salt, 7.9g fibre
NEXT
WINE EDITORS CHOICE
MONTH
Dry vouvray from Frances Loire
Celebrate the
first tender veg Valley is perfect here with its hints
of spring of crisp green apple and nuts.
82 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
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Megrim sole with grape
dressing and roast garlic
& potato pure
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 35 MIN,
OVEN TIME 1 HOUR 13 MIN
Make the potato pure up to
MAKE 24 hours in advance. Reheat
AHEAD
in a saucepan or microwave
add a splash of water if necessary.
Olive oil for drizzling
4 megrim sole fillets (from 2 large
fish, 600-800g each fish)
FOR THE ROAST GARLIC & POTATO PURE
800g medium potatoes, unpeeled
1 garlic bulb
Olive oil for drizzling
100ml milk
125ml double cream
4 tsp chopped fresh flatleaf parsley
FOR THE GRAPE DRESSING
120g unsalted butter
1 shallot, chopped
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
100ml dry vermouth
20 mixed red and green grapes,
halved and de-seeded
2 tsp chopped fresh chervil or
tarragon
1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/
gas 6. For the pure, put the potatoes
in a roasting tin and cook for
30 minutes, then turn over and cook
for 20 minutes more. Put the garlic
bulb on a sheet of foil, then drizzle
with olive oil and sprinkle with salt.
Wrap the garlic in the foil and add it
to the tin in the oven. Cook for 20
minutes more (the potatoes cook for
70 minutes in total and should be soft
when pierced with a sharp knife).
2 Once cooked, halve the potatoes
and scoop out the flesh into a bowl.
Unwrap the roasted garlic bulb,
separate the cloves and squeeze out
the flesh into the bowl. Pass the
potato and garlic through a ricer (or
a sieve using a spoon to press it
through), and into a bowl. Heat the
milk and cream together, then slowly
stir it into the potato mix until it has
the consistency you like. Season
well, add the chopped parsley, cover
and keep warm (or see Make Ahead).
3 For the grape dressing, melt the
butter in a pan over a medium heat
until it foams, turns nut brown and
smells biscuity. Transfer to a bowl.
Put the pan back on a medium heat
and add a drizzle of oil. When the oil
is hot, add the chopped shallot and
garlic, then cook for 1 minute without
colouring. Add the vermouth and
reduce to about 2 tbsp, then add the
grapes and remove from the heat.
4 To cook the fish, heat an ovenproof,
non-stick frying pan over a medium
heat. When hot, drizzle in the oil, then
add the fish, skin-side down. Season
with salt and cook for 2 minutes until
the edges turn golden, then put the
pan into the oven for 3 minutes.
Meanwhile, add the brown butter to
the grape mixture and warm through
but dont let it boil. Remove the fish
from the oven and carefully flip it
over. It will finish cooking in the
residual heat as you plate up.
5 Spoon the roast garlic and potato
pure onto 4 warmed plates. Place
the fish, skin-side down, on the
plates. Add the chopped herbs to the
dressing, season to taste, then divide
among the plates. Serve immediately.
PER SERVING 834kcals, 49.1g fat (27g
saturated), 43.1g protein, 46.1g carbs
(8.5g sugars), 0.6g salt, 5.5g fibre
WINE EDITORS CHOICE The crisp
citrus and rich depths of fine ch li
BE MORE ADVENTUROUS
ABOUT THE FISH YOU BUY
INSTEAD OF BUY
COD OR COLEY, HAKE
HADDOCK OR POLLOCK
PLAICE DAB OR
MEGRIM SOLE
SEA BASS GREY MULLET
TUNA MACKEREL
NATHAN SAYS: Theres no real
substitute for salmon but make
sure it comes from sustainable
sources, such as Loch Duart
(lochduart.com).
 whats good now.

Soused sardines with

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red cabbage and seaweed
salad cream
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN,
PLUS RESTING
Make the seaweed salad
MAKE cream up to 72 hours
AHEAD
ahead and keep in the
fridge. Use to dress salads or serve
with fish. Souse the sardines up to
24 hours ahead, cool completely and
chill. Bring them out of the fridge
45 minutes before serving.
Find nori sheets, and even
FOOD
TEAMS seaweed flakes, in the world
TIP
food aisle of supermarkets,
in good delis or on amazon.co.uk.
A few drizzles light rapeseed oil
4 large or 8 small sardines, scaled,
gutted, butterflied and pin-boned
(ask your fishmonger to do this)
1 red onion, finely sliced
red cabbage, cored and finely
shredded
200ml red wine vinegar
75g caster sugar
1 tbsp chopped fresh tarragon
FOR THE SEAWEED SALAD CREAM
2 medium free-range egg yolks
2 tsp English mustard
2 tsp caster sugar
2 tbsp lemon juice
100ml rapeseed oil
150ml double cream
2 tsp mixed seaweed flakes
(or nori sheets whizzed to
flakes); see tips
until the sugar has dissolved, then
bring it to a simmer. Pour over the
fish/veg, cover with cling film directly
touching the veg to keep everything
submerged, then leave for 30 minutes
at room temperature. (If serving the
next day, leave to cool, then chill.)
3 For the salad cream, whisk the
egg yolks, mustard, sugar and
lemon juice for 1 minute in a mixing
bowl using a balloon whisk/electric
mixer. Trickle in the rapeseed oil,
whisking until its all incorporated.
Slowly whisk in the double cream,
season with salt to taste, then stir
in the seaweed. It should be the
consistency of thin mayonnaise.
4 Carefully lift the sardines from the
liquid and put onto plates. Drain and
discard the liquid from the veg.
Season to taste and divide the veg
equally among the plates. Serve the
salad cream on the side.
PER SERVING 385kcals, 29.4g fat
(8.8g saturated), 16.3g protein,
11.4g carbs (10.9g sugars), 0.4g salt,
5g fibre
WINE EDITORS CHOICE
Pickled oily fish isnt easy to match,
but the cold lemon tang of a dry vinho
verde from Portugal works nicely.
FROM TOP
Nathan is anchored in the
community; Outlaws Fish
Kitchen; the wild Port
Isaac coastline

1 To souse the sardines, heat a non-

stick frying pan and add a drizzle of
rapeseed oil. When hot, add the fish
skin-side down and fry until golden
and cooked through (large fish
for 2-3 minutes, small ones for 1-2
minutes). Do this in 2 batches if
CORNWALL PHOTOGRAPHS: LAUREN MCLEAN

necessary dont overcrowd the

pan. Transfer the sardines, skin-
side up, to a glass or ceramic dish
large enough to hold them side by
side submerged in the sousing
liquid. Scatter the red onion and red
cabbage over the sardines.
2 Heat the red wine vinegar, sugar,
tarragon and 100ml water in a pan

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 WorldMags.net STAR OF THE SEASON

SPRING ONIONS
The green shoots of spring
These crunchy stalks are the most delicately avoured of the allium
family. Theyre actually young onions, plucked before the bulbs have had
a chance to swell and develop a strong, pungent avour. Thinly sliced and
served raw, they add a touch of sharpness and crunch to Far Eastern dishes.
When quickly cooked over a erce heat until the edges blacken and wilt,
their intensity softens and they take on a kind of creamy texture, akin to a slow-cooked
leek. Theyre more versatile than you may think Choose rm, tightly layered onions,
trim the base and cut off any dulled green tops. Use the whole thing, from the mild
white root all the way up to the more punchy green stems. ROSIE RAMSDEN, FOOD WRITER

RECIPES AND FOOD STYLING ROSIE RAMSDEN

PHOTOGRAPHS STUART WEST STYLING SARAH BIRKS

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 whats good now.

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FIVE QUICK
FIXES
1 Very finely chop half a bunch
of spring onions, setting aside
a couple, and mix them into a garlicky
aoli. Cook 2 small chorizo sausages,
halved lengthways, in a griddle pan
until golden, then remove with a
slotted spoon. Griddle the reserved
onions in the chorizo-flavoured oil
until just blackened. Spread 2 bread
rolls with the aoli, then pile in the
chorizo and blackened spring onions.

2 Whisk together equal parts

fish sauce, lime juice and rice
vinegar, then add palm sugar to
taste. Mix in a generous ratio of
finely sliced spring onions, then use
to top Asian noodle and rice dishes.

3 Very finely shred spring onions

and cucumber, then dress with
a whisked mixture of lemon juice,
sesame seeds, tahini and olive oil.
Serve as a salad on its own or
alongside Middle Eastern dishes.

4 Arrange 2 layers of long-

stemmed spring onions in
a roasting tin, placing garlic cloves
and sage leaves in among the
stems. Top with a roasting joint to
fully cover the spring onions. Roast
until the joint is cooked and the
onions are juicy and soft.

5 Whizz lightly blanched spring

onions with fresh basil and
parsley, grated parmesan, pine
nuts, a few anchovies and olive oil
to make a pesto. Add lemon juice
and salt to taste.

Turn the page for two recipes that

put spring onions centre stage

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Spring onion, herby
ricotta and nduja toasts
SERVES 2. HANDS-ON TIME 35 MIN
Nduja is a spreadable, spicy
KNOW- Calabrian sausage. Find it
HOW
in larger supermarkets or
Italian delis. If you cant get hold of
it, break up the insides of cooking
chorizo and fry with a little chilli.
Crumbled feta mixed with
FOOD
TEAMS yogurt would work instead
TIP
of ricotta and goats cheese.
125g ricotta (see tip)
50g soft goats cheese
Zest 1 lemon and juice , plus
extra zest to serve
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25g each chopped fresh
basil and parsley leaves
10g fresh mint, finely shredded
1 fresh rosemary sprig, leaves
finely chopped
6 pitted black olives, chopped
4 large spring onions, trimmed
1 tbsp nduja mixed with 1 tsp
olive oil (see Know-how)
Extra-virgin olive oil for
drizzling
2 large slices ciabatta
1 In a bowl, combine the ricotta,
goats cheese, lemon zest and juice,
herbs and olives. Season to taste.
2 Slice the spring onions part way
through lengthways, then open up.
Rub with oil and season well. Heat
a griddle pan until smoking, then
fry the onions until lightly charred
(about 20 minutes). In a small
pan, fry the nduja, breaking it up
with a wooden spoon, until browned.
3 Toast the ciabatta, then drizzle
with oil and top with the herby
ricotta, nduja and onions. Sprinkle
with extra lemon zest to serve.
PER SERVING 406kcals, 26.4g fat
(11g saturated), 16.9g protein,
23.8g carbs (4.5g sugars), 1.5g salt,
2.7g fibre
WINE EDITORS CHOICE A dry, pale
Provence-style ros is great here.
Find ways to use up leftover soft
goats cheese in Loose Ends
 whats good now.

Duck pancakes
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with quick-pickled
spring onions
SERVES 2. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN,
OVEN TIME 8 MIN
2 x 180g free-range duck breasts
4 large Chinese lettuce leaves
Hoisin sauce to serve
FOR THE QUICK-PICKLED SPRING ONIONS
75ml rice vinegar (or cider vinegar)
50g caster sugar
4 spring onions, finely shredded
cucumber, finely shredded
50g beansprouts
FOR THE PANCAKES
160ml milk
2 large free-range eggs
80g rice flour
4 spring onions, very finely
chopped
tsp toasted sesame oil
Sunflower oil for frying
ingredients (except the sunflower PER SERVING 831kcals, 42.9g fat NEXT
oil) in a mixing bowl, then season (11.3g saturated), 49.1g protein, MONTH
with salt and pepper. 60.9g carbs (30.4g sugars), Jersey royals
step into the
5 Heat a drizzle of sunflower oil in 0.8g salt, 2.2g fibre spotlight
a large frying pan over a medium WINE EDITORS CHOICE The sweet
heat. Ladle in quarter of the batter hints from the sugar and hoisin
and fry for 1 minute on each side call for a juicy, off-dry, fruity red
until golden. Transfer to a plate. such as Californian merlot.
Repeat with the remaining batter
to make 4 pancakes.
6 Slice the rested duck breasts. Lay
one large Chinese lettuce leaf in the
centre of each of the pancakes, then
top with the quick-pickled spring
onions and duck, pouring over any
resting juices. Serve with hoisin
sauce and the leftover pickle juice to
spoon over, then wrap up to eat.

1 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/

gas 4. For the quick-pickled spring
onions, put the vinegar and sugar
in a small pan over a low heat, then
stir to dissolve the sugar. Add
the shredded spring onions
and cucumber and the
beansprouts, then
take off the heat
and leave to cool.
2 Meanwhile, pat the
duck skin dry with
kitchen paper and
season well with salt
and pepper. Put a
dry frying pan over a
high heat and, when
hot, fry the duck
breast, skin-side
down, for 5 minutes or
until the skin crisps. Turn
and fry on the other side
for 30 seconds.
3 Transfer the duck breasts to
a baking tray, skin-side up, and
cover loosely with foil. Roast for
8 minutes for medium-rare
(11 if you prefer well done). Take
out of the oven and put the duck
on a board to rest.
4 For the pancakes, whisk all the

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The forgotten joint
PHOTOGRAPH ALEX LUCK FOOD STYLING LOTTIE COVELL STYLING DAVINA PERKINS

Rump is an underrated cut for roasting. Not only is it relatively heavy-based pan over a low-
inexpensive, its also a great choice if you like your beef with a bit medium heat. Gently cook the garlic
for 4-5 minutes until starting to
of substance. The rich avour needs something to cut through
soften but not coloured, then set
it, though, and my answer to that is a sharp salsa verde. The use aside to cool (or see Moniques
of raw garlic in this vivid green sauce puts off some people, so here introduction to the recipe).
Ive lightly cooked it in oil rst to take the sting out of its tail. If you prefer that 6 When the beef has been in the
ery, powerful garlicky hit, you can leave it raw. oven for 50 minutes, check the
MONIQUE LANE, FOOD WRITER internal temperature has reached
57C (for medium-rare) using a
Beef rump with salsa 4 anchovy fillets, roughly chopped digital probe thermometer. If not,
verde and sherry-roast 1 tsp capers, rinsed, drained and or if you prefer your meat more well
root vegetables roughly chopped done, return it to the oven for
SERVES 8-10. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, another 10 minutes, then test again.
OVEN TIME 1 HOUR 20 MIN YOULL ALSO NEED When ready, remove the beef and
Digital probe thermometer leave to rest on a lipped board (to
Grass-fed beef has retain the juices), loosely covered
KNOW- a deeper flavour than 1 Rub the meat all over with olive oil in foil, for 15 minutes.
HOW
grain-fed. Its also a more and season with salt and pepper. 7 At the same time, test the
natural diet for the animal, Heat the oven to 220C/200C fan/ vegetables: they should be crisp
so its a better choice ethically. gas 7. Heat a large frying pan over on the outside and soft inside when
a high heat. When very hot, add the pierced with the tip of a sharp knife.
2.3kg British grass-fed beef meat and sear for 3-5 minutes on all Leave the vegetables in the turned-
rump at room temperature sides until browned and caramelised. off oven to keep warm.
(see Know-how) 2 Meanwhile, boil the carrots and 8 Meanwhile, pound the garlic to a
Olive oil to rub potatoes together in a large pan of rough paste in a pestle and mortar
salted boiling water for 10-15 or whizz in a small food processor.
FOR THE VEGETABLES minutes until just tender. Drain in Add the rest of the salsa verde
800g carrots, chopped into chunks a colander to steam dry, then shake ingredients and pound/whizz until
800g red-skinned potatoes, such around in the colander to rough up the mixture forms a rough paste.
as rooster, chopped into chunks the edges. Put the beef dripping in Taste and adjust the seasoning: you
120g beef dripping a large roasting tin, then put in the may want to add more lemon zest
8 banana shallots, halved bottom of the oven to heat up. or sherry vinegar to taste.
lengthways 3 When the dripping is hot, remove 9 Once the beef has rested, stir the
A few fresh rosemary sprigs the tin from the oven and carefully resting juices through the salsa
Generous splash amontillado or add the carrots, potatoes, shallots verde. Pour a small splash of sherry
oloroso sherry and rosemary. Season with salt and over the veg, then stir and season
pepper, then return to the oven. again. Slice the beef, then serve
FOR THE SALSA VERDE 4 At the same time, put the beef in with the salsa verde and vegetables.
60ml extra-virgin olive oil another large roasting tin and put PER SERVING (FOR 10) 564kcals,
3 garlic cloves, sliced in the oven above the vegetables. 27.3g fat (10.9g saturated),
Small bunch fresh flatleaf Roast everything together for 53.1g protein, 22.6g carbs
parsley, leaves chopped 20 minutes, then lower the heat to (7.5g sugars), 0.5g salt, 5.4g fibre
NEXT Finely grated zest 1 lemon, plus 170C/150C fan/gas 3 and roast WINE EDITORS CHOICE The sharp
MONTH
extra (optional) for another 50-60 minutes. salsa verde and sherry call for a red
Roast chicken
with warming 1 tbsp sherry vinegar, plus an 5 Meanwhile, for the salsa verde, with a fresh edge, such as Italys
Pakistani spices extra splash gently heat the olive oil in a small, cherryish dolcetto or barbera.

88 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
WorldMags.net
 roast of the month.

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 TASTES LIKE HOME
WorldMags.net
Dad cooked
one meal a year
and Ive never
forgotten it
For chef Vivek Singh, his dads rare excursions to the kitchen back in
India created a lasting inheritance: these savoury stuffed dough balls.
Just spare a thought for the daily efforts of his overlooked mother
I hold many culinary
memories dear to me, but this
rather basic, rustic meal is
one that was my dads
signature dish, and I think of
it as my inheritance recipe.
The dish, originally from the
eastern part of Uttar Pradesh
state in northern India, was
often cooked for us by Dad
when we were growing up. Its funny my
mother cooked three meals a day for the ve
of us in the family, 364 days a year, and we
hardly noticed them; whereas Dad cooked
one meal a year and it has stuck with me!
The littis (little dough balls) are lled with
a spicy relish. Its extremely versatile if you
like, you can even make the relish on its own
and serve it as an accompaniment to a simple
meal of steamed rice and vegetables.
I cherish the memories of making this dish
with Dad, participating in the different stages
of lling, baking, then nally shaking the dough
balls in a closed pot with ghee to give them
a shiny nish. I make the littis from time to
time with my own kids now, hoping to make
this something of a family tradition one that
reminds us all of childhood and home.
VIVEK SINGH WAS BORN IN INDIA AND LIVES IN LONDON. HES
EXECUTIVE CHEF AND CEO OF THE CINNAMON CLUB, CINNAMON
KITCHEN AND CINNAMON SOHO. THE CINNAMON CLUB (CINNAMON
CLUB.COM) CELEBRATES ITS 15TH ANNIVERSARY THIS MONTH
90 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
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Litti chokha
SERVES 7-10 AS A SNACK. HANDS-ON TIME
45 MIN, OVEN TIME 15 MIN
The dough keeps well and
MAKE
AHEAD may be stored in an airtight
container for up to 3 days.
Although the dough will be
FOOD
TEAMS quite dry, it should hold
TIP
together. If necessary, add
a little extra oil or water in step 1
until the mixture just comes
together into a smooth dough.
FOR THE DOUGH
500g chapati flour (from larger
supermarkets and Asian grocers)
tsp salt for 15-18 minutes, turning once
tbsp dried thyme
35ml vegetable oil
250ml water
FOR THE SATTU KA MASALA (FILLING)
150g gram flour (from larger
supermarkets and Asian grocers)
125ml mustard oil (from Asian
grocers; or you can use the oil
from the top of a fresh jar of hot
mango pickle, combined with
sunflower oil)
2 red onions, finely chopped
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped white such as a juicy, citrus-scented
4 green chillies, deseeded and
finely chopped
3cm piece fresh ginger,
finely chopped
1 tbsp dried thyme
1 tsp nigella seeds
3 tsp salt
1 tbsp sugar
3 tbsp roughly chopped
fresh coriander
4 tbsp raisins
TO SERVE
3 tbsp ghee, melted, for soaking
the littis (dough balls)
Lime wedges for squeezing
Mint raita and hot mango pickle
1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/
gas 6. To make the dough, mix all
the ingredients together in a large
mixing bowl until it forms a stiff
dough (see tip). Cover with cling film
and chill while you make the filling.
2 To make the filling, combine all
the ingredients in a large mixing
bowl until well incorporated.
3 Divide the dough into about 15 x
50g balls. Flatten each dough ball
slightly, then roll out to the thickness
of a 1 coin. Spoon a heaped
tablespoon of the filling onto each
flattened ball, then pull the dough
from the sides to the centre and
pinch to enclose the filling.
FOOD PHOTOGRAPH: STUART WEST. FOOD STYLING: ROSIE RAMSDEN. STYLING: SARAH BIRKS
4 Lay the balls (littis) on a wire rack
in the centre of the oven and bake
halfway through. Some parts of the
dough may begin to blister and
crack, but thats fine. Remove the
littis from the oven and toss them
with ghee while theyre still warm.
Serve warm with lime wedges, mint
raita and hot mango pickle.
PER SERVING (FOR 10) 429kcals,
12.9g fat (2.7g saturated), 6.9g
protein, 39.3g carbs (5.8g sugars),
1.3g salt, 3.7g fibre
WINE EDITORS CHOICE Serve
these with a cold, refreshing
Chilean sauvignon blanc or a dry
Australian riesling.
 food memories.

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DISH FIT FOR

A SINGH Back
in India, Vivek
(right) would
eagerly anticipate
his dads yearly
cooking effort

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 WorldMags.net
THE TREND INGREDIENT
POMEGRANATE
MOLASSES
The Middle Eastern kitchen offers a cornucopia of exotic ingredients and none is more
sensational than this sweet-sharp syrup. The deep colour and complex avour add a wonderful
intensity to sweet and savoury dishes. Use it in this luscious cake and youll be hooked
WHAT YOU NEED
TO KNOW ABOUT IT
The best quality pomegranate molasses is
made with nothing other than pomegranate
juice from sour and semi-sweet varieties of
pomegranate, which is boiled to a dark, sticky,
sweet-sharp syrup. Less expensive versions
may be artificially thickened, with sweetening/
souring agents added. Its used widely in
Levantine cooking if youve been to Turkey
youve probably eaten it. Its used to cut
through rich, fatty dishes or to enhance
salads, cheese-based and vegetable dishes.
Its one of the delicious. teams desert island
ingredients, and were always dreaming up
new ways to include it in recipes.
AND HOW TO USE IT
Before you add it to anything, taste it to get the
full effect if youve never tried it before it
will knock your socks off. We love it paired
with herbs; sour cheese such as feta or fresh
goats cheese; nuts; grilled or barbecued
WorldMags.net
meat and fish; roast caramelised veg; rich or
fatty cuts such as chicken livers or thighs; and
griddled or fried halloumi. Marinate the meat/
fish/cheese in it and/or drizzle it over
whatever youre serving to taste. Use it in
salad dressings instead of balsamic vinegar.
Its also best friends with chilli. As with lots of
Levantine cooking, the other flavours need to
be bold too with pomegranate molasses, use
whole bunches of fresh herbs (not just a few
pinches) and lots of extra-virgin olive oil.
WHERE TO BUY
Find it in the world food or condiments aisle
of large supermarkets, in speciality food shops
or at souschef.co.uk, ottolenghi.co.uk or
thefoodmarket.com. We like Belazu or Al-Rabih
WORDS: REBECCA WOOLLARD
(from Sainsburys and Ottolenghi). The latter
has added sugar and citric acid, but we love its
flavour. If its good enough for Ottolenghi
HOW LONG DOES IT LAST?
Opened, it will keep for at least 3 months.
RECIPE ROSIE RAMSDEN
PHOTOGRAPHS MAJA SMEND
FOOD STYLING CHARLIE CLAPP
STYLING OLIVIA WARDLE

THE STAR RECIPE
WorldMags.net 3 medium free-range eggs,
Pomegranate cake
SERVES 8-10. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN,
OVEN TIME 30 MIN, PLUS COOLING
If you only have a loose-
FOOD
TEAMS bottomed cake tin, line
TIP
it first with foil, then
with baking paper. You could
use a 20cm square tin, although
the cake may sink in the middle.
150g unsalted butter, plus
extra to grease
50g dark brown muscovado
sugar
100g caster sugar
beaten
2 tbsp pomegranate
molasses, plus 75ml extra
150g plain flour
tsp bicarbonate of soda
tsp fine sea salt
50ml buttermilk
FOR THE TOPPING
100g mascarpone
15g icing sugar, sifted
tsp orange blossom water
Pomegranate seeds
1 Grease and line a 20cm cake
tin (without a loose bottom; see
WorldMags.net
tip). Heat the oven to 180C/
160C fan/gas 4. Melt the butter
and sugars in a saucepan, then
pour into a mixing bowl and
allow to cool. Beat in the eggs,
one by one, then stir in the
2 tbsp pomegranate molasses.
2 Sift the flour, bicarb and salt
into another large bowl, then
fold in the egg mixture until
combined. Stir in the buttermilk.
3 Spoon the batter into the tin,
then bake for 25-30 minutes
until a skewer pushed into the
cake comes out clean. Cool for
5 minutes in the tin, then invert
onto a cooling rack. Set a plate
in the know.
underneath the rack. Poke holes
in the top of the cake using a
skewer, then pour over the 75ml
pomegranate molasses. Cool.
4 To make the topping, whisk the
mascarpone with the icing sugar
and orange blossom water.
Spread over the cake, then
scatter with pomegranate
seeds. The cake will keep for up
to 5 days in an airtight container.
PER SERVING (FOR 10) 311kcals,
17g fat (10.8g saturated),
2.3g protein, 36.6g carbs (24.2g
sugars), 0.3g salt, 1.1g fibre
See Loose Ends for more
pomegranate molasses ideas
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 93
 WorldMags.net
Jos Pizarros
FOOD
FROM
THE
HEART

For the people from the Basque

Country of northern Spain, food
isnt just fuel, its a way of life.
Chef Jos Pizarros latest book
is a celebration of the regions
flavours, tastes and textures.
When we say these recipes
are irresistible, we mean it
PHOTOGRAPHS LAURA EDWARDS Spinach and
FOOD STYLING LIZZIE KAMENETZKY goats cheese
STYLING POLLY WEBB-WILSON croquetas

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Spinach and goats
WorldMags.net
cheese croquetas
MAKES 25 CROQUETAS. HANDS-ON TIME
45 MIN, PLUS CHILLING
Many people tell me they
make a beeline to my restaurants
for the croquetas and tortillas.
This is one of the most popular
flavour combinations for
croquetas in the Basque Country
theyre so creamy and moreish.
They freeze well, too.
At the end of step 5, put the
MAKE balls on a tray in the freezer,
AHEAD
not touching, until frozen,
then transfer to a freezer bag and
store for up to 3 months. Defrost
a little, then continue from step 6.
FOOD
The filling can take a lot of
TEAMS seasoning so taste as you
TIPS
season. We liked the
croquetas served with a squeeze of
lemon juice and more sea salt flakes.
500g baby leaf spinach
400ml full-cream whole milk
100ml strong fresh vegetable
stock
80g unsalted butter
125g plain flour
80g soft goats cheese, crumbled
Freshly grated nutmeg
2 large free-range eggs, beaten
125g dried breadcrumbs
Olive oil for deep-frying, plus
extra to coat your hands
YOULL ALSO NEED
Digital probe thermometer
1 Heat a large, deep frying pan over
a medium-high heat and add the
spinach with a tiny splash of water.
Cook for 3-4 minutes until completely
wilted, then run under cold water.
Once cold, squeeze out all the water.
Chop finely and set aside.
2 In a saucepan, heat the milk and
stock together. In another pan, melt
the butter over a medium heat, add
the flour and cook for 2-3 minutes
until nutty and golden brown. Start
adding the milk and stock very
slowly, stirring it in until you get a
really silky-smooth mix. This will
book of the month.
take approximately 15 minutes. Im from
3 Still on the heat, slowly add the Extremadura,
goats cheese to the mixture, a region that is
stirring constantly, then add the and always will
chopped spinach and stir until well be close to my
combined. Season with salt, pepper heart, but I
and a grating of nutmeg (see tips). love the Basque
4 Spread the mixture over a shallow Country. It has
tray, then cover with a sheet of cling a reputation
film, pressing it down so it touches for culinary
the surface. Let the mixture cool innovation
a little, then chill in the fridge for and modern
at least 2 hours. techniques, but
5 With oiled hands, roll the mixture its history, culture and traditions go back
into about 25 x 30g balls. If the a long way, and the celebration of these can
balls are a little soft, pop them on be seen every day on the streets of San
a tray and freeze to firm up for Sebastin and across the region. For people
30 minutes (see Make Ahead). from the Basque Country, food is the most
6 Put the beaten egg and the important thing. Its about sharing big plates
breadcrumbs into 2 separate bowls. of food around the table, celebrating happy
Dip the croquetas first into the occasions its a way of life.
beaten egg, then into the These recipes have been inspired by
breadcrumbs until evenly coated. what Ive seen and learned in this wonderful
7 Half fill a saucepan with olive oil, part of my country, the people Ive met and
then heat to 180C when tested with the respect they have for food. JOS PIZARRO
a digital thermometer. Fry the
croquetas, in batches, for around
2 minutes or until golden. Drain on
ABOUT JOS Modern Spanish cooking is a force to
be reckoned with in London and that reputation
kitchen paper and serve (see tips). has, in large part, been created by this inspiring
PER CROQUETA 111kcals, 7g fat chef, cookbook author and restaurateur
(3.1g saturated), 3.4g protein, through his three restaurants, Jos Tapas Bar,
Pizarro and Jos Pizarro Broadgate. These
8.4g carbs (1.1g sugars), 0.2g salt, recipes are from his third cookbook.
0.4g fibre
WINE EDITORS CHOICE Modern
Spanish white wines are inspiring
choose a godello or albario from
the northwest for these croquetas.
Chicken stewed in
cider and apples
SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 50 MIN,
OVEN TIME 1 HOUR 10 MINUTES
The Basque Country is feted
across Spain, and indeed the
world, for its culinary creativity.
It has more three-Michelin-star
restaurants than anywhere else
in the country and I understand
why there are so many local
products that inspire me when
I visit. My inspiration for this
dish, as with many of my recipes,
came from seeing the ingredients
(cider, apples, chicken)
together; then I just had to
create a plate of food
WorldMags.net deliciousmagazine.co.uk 95
 WorldMags.net the oven and cook for 1 hour.
4 Meanwhile, heat a little oil and the
butter in a frying pan and fry the
granny smith apples, sprinkled with
the sugar, until caramelised. Add the
sultanas and toss in the juices. Add
to the casserole after the chicken
has been cooking for 30 minutes.
5 Remove the lid of the casserole
and turn up the oven to 220C/
200C fan/gas 7. Cook for 10
minutes more to brown the top of
the chicken, then serve.
PER SERVING 385kcals, 13.1g fat
(4.4g saturated), 44g protein,
16.4g carbs (15.8g sugars), 0.6g salt,
1.6g fibre
WINE EDITORS CHOICE Pour good
quality dry cider, or chill a bottle of
unoaked, young white rioja.
Tortilla de bacalao
SERVES UP TO 8. HANDS-ON TIME 25 MIN,
Salt cod SIMMERING TIME 50 MIN, PLUS 24 HOURS
tortilla? S, SOAKING
por favor!
I couldnt write a book on
Basque Country food and not
Olive oil for browning and frying include a recipe for salt cod
1.8-2kg whole free-range chicken tortilla. Its a must-have dish
1 eating apple, peeled, halved and when youre in a sidrera (cider oil and pour in the egg mixture.
cored house). My interpretation is to
2 onions, finely sliced caramelise the onions to bring
2 bay leaves more sweetness to the tortilla.
6 fresh sage leaves I dont cook the bacalao before
1 small cinnamon stick adding it, so it stays juicy.
500ml dry cider Caramelise more onions than
400ml fresh chicken stock you need as you can keep them
25g unsalted butter in the fridge for at least a week
3 granny smith apples, peeled, they make a great addition to
cored and sliced into 8 any sandwich, or just on toast
1 tsp caster sugar with goats cheese. Heaven.
50g sultanas
Cook the onions up to 7 days
1 Heat the oven to 160C/140C fan/ MAKE
BOOK AHEAD ahead and keep covered
OFFER gas 3. Heat a layer of oil in a large in the fridge.
These recipes are casserole on the hob. Season the The tortilla is very juicy, so
from Basque: FOOD
chicken inside and out, then brown TEAMS flip it over the sink, just in
Spanish Recipes TIPS
from San all over. Set aside and put the halved case (step 5). Salt cod varies
Sebastin and apple in the cavity. in quality and saltiness. To get the
Beyond by Jos 2 Add the onion to the casserole and best out of your fish, change the
Pizarro (25;
Hardie Grant). To fry for 10 minutes to soften. Return water 2-3 times during soaking, then
order a copy for the chicken to the casserole and add give it a rinse before you flake it.
the special price of the herbs and cinnamon.
20 including P&P,
3 Pour in the cider and bubble for a 400g salt cod before soaking
please call 01256
302699 and quote few minutes, then add the stock and find it at fishmongers or at
the code GS1. bring to the boil. Cover, transfer to melburyandappleton.co.uk
96 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
WorldMags.net
125ml olive oil
3 large onions, finely sliced
Handful fresh thyme, leaves
stripped (about 2 tbsp leaves)
6 medium free-range eggs
Handful fresh flatleaf parsley,
finely chopped
1 Soak the salt cod in cold water,
skin-side up in the fridge, for 24
hours, changing the water a couple
of times (see tips). Drain and rinse.
2 Heat the oil in a large pan and
gently fry the onions for 2 minutes.
Cover with a lid and cook over a low
heat for 25 minutes or until really
soft. Remove the lid, add the thyme
and cook for a further 20-25 minutes
until caramelised and sticky. Scoop
out with a slotted spoon, reserving
the oil, and leave to cool.
3 Remove the skin from the cod and
check for bones, pulling them out
with tweezers if you find any, then
flake/cut into medium-large pieces.
In a medium bowl, beat the eggs with
plenty of black pepper and gently
mix in the onion, cod and parsley.
4 In a large (23cm) non-stick frying
pan, heat 2-3 tbsp of the reserved
Swirl the pan over a high heat
until the mixture starts to set
around the edges, then reduce the
heat and cook for 4-5 minutes until
it just starts to set, so the bottom
and sides are golden but its still
quite loose in the middle.
5 Cover the pan with a flat lid, plate
or board, carefully turn out the
tortilla onto it (see tips), then put
the pan back on a low heat. Slide the
tortilla back into the pan, cooked-
side up, and use a spatula to tuck
the edges of the tortilla under to
give its characteristic curved look.
Cook for a couple of minutes more,
then turn onto a board and serve.
The tortilla should be lovely and
juicy when you cut into it.
PER SERVING (FOR 8) 328kcals,
16.6g fat (3g saturated), 39g protein,
4.8g carbs (3.8g sugars), 1.2g salt,
1.6g fibre
WINE EDITORS CHOICE Bring out
a bright, lively Spanish ros (rosado)
from the Navarra region.
 book of the month.

WorldMags.net

Chicken stewed
in cider and
apples, p95

WorldMags.net
book of the month.

WorldMags.net Caramelised pears with

hazelnut praline ice cream
SERVES 6-8. HANDS-ON TIME 1 HOUR,
SIMMERING TIME 10-15 MIN, PLUS FREEZING

25g unsalted butter

25g caster sugar
4 ripe pears, peeled and cut into
wedges
1 vanilla pod, split, seeds scraped
50ml brandy

FOR THE HAZELNUT PRALINE ICE CREAM

80g shelled hazelnuts
250g caster sugar
600ml full-cream whole milk
6 medium free-range egg yolks
500ml double cream

1 For the hazelnut praline ice

cream, toast the nuts in a dry pan
until golden, then tip onto a baking
sheet lined with baking paper.
2 Put 100g of the 250g sugar in a pan
Introducing your with 1 tbsp water, then heat gently
new favourite
fruit and ice to melt the sugar. Increase the heat
cream combo and bubble to a dark golden
caramel. Pour onto the nuts, then
leave to cool and harden. Put in
a freezer bag and bash into small
pieces with a wooden rolling pin.
3 Heat the milk in a heavy-based pan
to almost boiling. Beat the egg yolks
in a bowl with the remaining 150g
sugar until light and fluffy, then add
the hot milk, stirring until combined.
Tip into a clean pan and cook very
gently to make a thick custard.
Strain into a bowl and cool. Once
cold, stir in the cream and praline.
Churn in an ice-cream maker until
set. (To make by hand, pour into a
lidded container, freeze for 1 hour,
then whisk with an electric mixer.
Freeze, then repeat twice or until
smooth.) Store for up to 3 months.
4 For the pears, melt the butter and
sugar in a pan, then add the pears,
vanilla seeds and pod. Cook, turning,
for 10-15 minutes until tender and
caramelised. Pour in the brandy and
NEXT bubble until smooth. Serve with the
MONTH hazelnut praline ice cream.
Afternoon tea PER SERVING (FOR 8) 680kcals,
recipes from 49.5g fat (25.8g saturated), 7.6g
queen of cakes
Mary Berry protein, 47.1g carbs (46.9g sugars),
0.21g salt, 2.7g fibre

98 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
WorldMags.net

WorldMags.net
CHEERS!
Susy Atkins picks the best of the bunch, plus wines for Easter
GRAB A BARGAIN
The Exquisite Collection red, loaded with fresh but
Gavi 2014, Italy (5.49, ripe cassis. Easy-going
Aldi) A superior gavi at with simple, flavourful
a knockdown price, its dry rag or sausages.
and elegant with a subtle Tilimuqui Single
yellow pear flavour. Pair
with delicate white fish.
Vineyard Torronts 2014,
Argentina (7.99, down
Silver Ghost Cabernet
Sauvignon 2014, Chile
to 6.39 until 15 March,
Waitrose) Young, modern
(5.99, or 4.99 when you white, fresh and zingy with
mix and match 6 bottles, a burst of grapefruit and
until 25 April, Majestic) passion fruit. Makes a cool
Likeable, medium-bodied aperitif on spring evenings.
FRIDAY SPECIAL
Terres de Moraines
Madiran 2012, South West
France (9, down to 7
until 7 March, Marks &
Spencer) Hurry to bag the
deal on this robust and
hearty but balanced red.
Packed with ripe damsons,
its one for beef braises.
Mont Gras Carmenre
Reserva Especial 2014,
Colchagua, Chile (8.99,
Waitrose) A star red with
TREAT YOURSELF
Aster Finca el Otero Marlborough, New
2010, Ribera del Duero, Zealand (11.99, or 9.99
Spain (sold as 6-bottle when you mix and match
case, 161.70 26.95 per 6 bottles until 25 April,
bottle from Armit Majestic) A premium,
Wines; armitwines.co.uk) smooth, cherry-scented
Award-winning Spanish red. Fab with duck.
red a top choice for Gosset Grand Ros
a lamb roast over the Champagne NV, France
holiday weekend. Finely (from 55, independents
including hedonism.co.uk
PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK
oaked, with gorgeous
liquoricey cassis fruit. and Selfridges) Delectable
Saint Clair Estate fizz with a pretty blush,
Selection Pinot Noir 2014, perfect for an Easter toast.
WorldMags.net
drinks.
FOOD MATCHING
Wines for
chocolate
T
he sweetness and
mouth-coating texture
of Easter chocolates can
make dry wines taste thin and
acidic, but there are blissful
marriages to be made with
luscious pudding wines and
spicy lamb curries or rich their weighty, syrupy texture.
tagines, with its soft clove Golden dessert wines such
and cinnamon notes. as sauternes and French
Roc Saint Vincent fortified muscat go well with
Sauvignon Blanc 2014, milk chocolate but, for the
Bordeaux, France darker stuff, go for a riper,
(8, down to 6 until apricot-scented Australian
15 March, Sainsburys) botrytis semillon. Dazzling
Youthful white bordeaux star buys here are Hermits
thats appealing, light and Hill Botrytis Semillon 2009,
lemony and only 11.5%. Australia (8.50/37.5cl,
Cracking with egg-based Marks & Spencer) and Finest
dishes such as souffls. Dessert Semillon 2009,
Australia (6/37.5cl, Tesco).
Both are heavenly with
a chunk of dark chocolate.
More adventurously,
a tawny port, madeira and
even Caribbean rum have
the intensity and richness to
complement fine-quality
chocolate. Or pick a rare red
dessert wine from the South
of France, such as Seriously
Plummy Grande Rserve
Maury, France (10.99/37.5cl,
Waitrose). This sweet grenache
oozes plump, sun-kissed red
berries, plums and raisins.
Serve with chocolate cakes,
mousses or gateaux.
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 99
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 WorldMags.net THE SANE VIEW

Is it healthier to go
GLUTEN FREE?
Fifteen per cent of adults in the UK are now avoiding gluten or wheat, and sales of gluten-free
products are soaring. Many are ditching gluten because they believe its a healthy option,
but most are doing so without a medical diagnosis. So whats going on here? Is going
gluten-free actually good for you or is it a pointless fad? Sue Quinn talks to the experts

N
ot so long ago, gluten-
free products were only
available on prescription
for people diagnosed
with coeliac disease. Now they
command their own section in the
free-from aisles of supermarkets.
A tidal wave of gluten-free food,
from bread and pasta to biscuits
and sweets, has caught millions of
consumers in its wash and not just
TRUE OR FALSE?
Gluten-free products are
healthier than standard
versions containing gluten
T TRUE T FALSE
Gluten-free products often
contain more fat, sugar and salt
T TRUE T FALSE
Its fine to eliminate gluten
from the diet without taking
medical advice
T TRUE T FALSE
Gluten-free products are
often more expensive than
standard ones
T TRUE T FALSE
Gluten sensitivity is likely to
be an intolerance to something
else for many people
T TRUE T FALSE
people with coeliac disease or
gluten sensitivity. Growing
numbers of shoppers are switching
to gluten-free products simply
because they believe theyre
healthier than standard versions.
But is this true?
Much of the food industry would
like us to think so, and its easy to
see why. Gluten-free versions often
cost more than the regular items.
According to consumer research
group Mintel, UK shoppers spent
184 million on gluten or wheat-
free products in 2014 up 15 per
cent on the year before, and sales
are expected to increase to 275
million by 2019. Mintel says
15 per cent of households were
avoiding gluten and wheat, and
nearly half were doing so because
they believed avoiding gluten was
part of a healthy lifestyle.
UNRAVELLING THE SCIENCE
Gluten is the general name for
proteins found in wheat, rye, barley
and other grains. Its what gives
bread dough its elasticity and ability
to rise, and allows cakes to rise and
keep their shape. You expect to find
gluten in bread and cakes, but wheat
as flour or starch has become di-, mono-saccharides and polyols)
a hidden ingredient in all kinds
of products: sauces, stock cubes,
processed meats and much more.
People with coeliac disease
about 1 per cent of the population
(most of whom have not yet been
diagnosed) have an autoimmune
condition and suffer damage to the
gut lining when they eat gluten. For
them, the consequences of eating
the wrong thing can be severe,
including osteoporosis, anaemia
and even bowel cancer if the
condition goes undiagnosed. Others
believe eating gluten causes
For someone
without coeliac
disease or gluten
sensitivity, cutting out
gluten has no health
benefit at all
symptoms similar to irritable bowel
syndrome (IBS).
Although theres no definitive test
for gluten sensitivity, its a genuine
clinical problem, according to
Marianne Williams, a specialist
gastroenterology dietitian. But she
says that for many people, gluten
isnt the culprit; in many cases,
types of carbohydrate known by the
acronym Fodmaps (fermentable olio-,
are now thought to be responsible.
Fodmaps are found in pulses,
grains, dairy, fruit, vegetables and,
confusingly, some foods that

102 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
WorldMags.net
 your health.

WorldMags.net
contain gluten, such as wheat-
based pasta and bread. Research is
suggesting that a Fodmap problem
can be mistaken for a gluten
intolerance, as the gut symptoms
appear identical, Williams says.
This means many people who self-
diagnose a gluten-intolerance might
be giving up a wide range of foods
unnecessarily. Their symptoms
might be cured, for example, by
simply eliminating wheat rather
than gluten, or a different food
altogether, such as onions, honey,
apples or milk. Only trained
dietitians can test to identify
a Fodmap sensitivity.

IS GLUTEN UNHEALTHY?
The growing number of people
who believe they have a gluten
sensitivity is now snowballing
into a community that
believes gluten-free simply
means healthy. Celebrities and
popular wellness bloggers
have made gluten-free
fashionable, with claims
that the protein causes
myriad ills, from gut
ache to eczema.
But is gluten actually
unhealthy? For someone
without coeliac disease or
gluten sensitivity, cutting
out gluten from the diet is
an unnecessary change that has no population actually benefiting from diet can be lower in fibre, thiamin,
health benefit at all except making a gluten-free diet, why are so many riboflavin, niacin, folate and iron,
life harder, says Anna Daniels, people buying these products? says Marianne Williams.
dietitian and spokeswoman for the The growth in gluten-free food
British Dietetic Association. Whats is not just due to (real or perceived) SEEK MEDICAL ADVICE
more, she says, needlessly doing so allergies or intolerances. Some Anyone suffering gut problems
can leave your diet lacking in key dietitians believe gluten-frees such as bloating or pain should seek
nutrients: The risk for someone popularity is also linked to the trend medical advice rather than self-
unnecessarily going gluten-free for low-carbohydrate weightloss diagnosing and cutting out gluten,
is that they are cutting out these diets. Carb-heavy foods such as say the experts. A doctor or
widely available healthy foods, bread and pasta contain gluten, dietitian can rule out IBS or more
and potentially eating less fibre, so giving it up can be a strategy serious bowel conditions where
vitamins and minerals. for trying to shift pounds. But the dietary recommendations might
according to dietitians, eating be different, says Anna Daniels.
NO WONDER SHOPS manufactured gluten-free products Marianne Williams agrees.
ARE CASHING IN can lead to weight gain, not weight A gluten-free diet is not necessarily NEXT
The gluten-free market is now so loss, as they often contain extra a healthier diet, and shouldnt be MONTH
ILLUSTRATION: GETTY

lucrative, even foods that dont
normally contain gluten are being
labelled naturally gluten-free. But
with only a tiny percentage of the
sugar, fat and salt to compensate used as a general healthy option or Sue Quinn
considers fat is
for the loss of flavour and texture. as a weightloss diet, she says. In
it good or bad for
Many gluten-free foods are high short dont equate gluten-free you? And does it
in fat and sugar, and the [resulting] with healthy. make you fat?

WorldMags.net deliciousmagazine.co.uk 103

 WorldMags.net
JOIN THE
COLOURING-iN
REVOLUTION

NEW
only
3.25

UNLEASH YOUR CREATIVE SPIRIT

ON SALE AT ALL GOOD RETAILERS

WorldMags.net
 WorldMags.net
GOOD-FOR-YOU
MIDWEEK MEALS
NEW
MIDWEEK
PROMISE
Your guarantee for every recipe
in this section: NO MORE THAN
10 ingredients
30 min hands-on time
650 calories per portion (but many
of the recipes have fewer)
10g sat fat per portion
PLUS
No unnecessary added sugar
Minimal washing up
RECIPES: LOTTIE COVELL AND MONIQUE LANE. PHOTOGRAPHS: MIKE ENGLISH. FOOD STYLING: ROSIE RAMSDEN. STYLING: TONY HUTCHINSON

HEALTHY RECIPES
to shake off winter
Flavourful, textural, colourful and packed with nutrients its no Turn the page
exaggeration to say these dishes are full of the joys of spring for the recipes

WorldMags.net deliciousmagazine.co.uk 105

WorldMags.net Thai prawn cakes
with dipping sauce
and rocket salad
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 25 MIN

To thaw frozen prawns

FOOD
TEAMS quickly, put them in a
TIP
bowl of freshly boiled
water for 5 minutes, drain,
rinse and use immediately.

400g sustainable king prawns,

fresh or frozen (see tip)
Large bunch fresh
coriander
Zest and juice 2 limes
15g fresh ginger, grated
4 tbsp Thai fish sauce
4 spring onions, finely sliced
1 medium free-range egg,
lightly beaten
100g fresh breadcrumbs
3 tbsp sweet chilli sauce
Vegetable oil for frying
Rocket to serve (optional)

1 Put 300g of the prawns in a

food processor with half the
coriander, the lime zest, ginger,
1 tbsp of the fish sauce, most of
the spring onions, the beaten
egg and breadcrumbs. Season
well, then pulse until the mix
comes together. Chop the rest
of the prawns quite finely, then
stir into the mixture. Shape into
12 patties, put on a plate and
chill for 15 minutes.
2 Meanwhile, mix the remaining
3 tbsp fish sauce with the lime
juice and sweet chilli sauce,
then add the remaining sliced
spring onion. Heat 1cm oil in
a large frying pan, then fry the
prawn cakes for 3-4 minutes
on each side until golden and
cooked through.
3 Toss the remaining coriander
with half the dressing (and, if
you like, rocket). Serve the cakes
and the leaves with the
remaining dressing for dipping.
PER SERVING 229kcals, 2.8g fat
(0.6g saturated), 23.9g protein,
26.2g carbs (8.1g sugars), 5.1g
salt, 1.3g fibre

WorldMags.net
 lighter eating.

UNDER 5 MEAL
WorldMags.net spaghetti and cook according
Broccoli, chilli and
lemon spaghetti
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 25-30 MIN
300g spaghetti
250g purple sprouting
broccoli, halved lengthways
3 tbsp olive oil, plus a drizzle
1 onion, chopped
3 garlic cloves, chopped
red chilli, deseeded and
finely chopped
Zest and juice -1 lemon
Large handful fresh flatleaf
parsley, roughly chopped
Handful almonds, toasted in
a dry frying pan, to serve
(optional)
1 Bring a large saucepan of
salted water to the boil. Add the
to the pack instructions. Add
the broccoli for the last 3
minutes of the cooking time.
Drain, then drizzle with olive oil
to stop the pasta sticking.
2 Meanwhile, heat the 3 tbsp oil
in a large non-stick frying pan,
then add the onion and cook for
6-8 minutes until starting to
soften. Add the garlic and chilli,
then cook for 3-4 minutes more.
3 Add the drained broccoli and
pasta to the onion mixture and
mix well. Season with salt and
pepper, adding lemon zest and
juice to taste. Stir in the
chopped parsley, then serve
immediately, scattered with the
toasted almonds if you like.
PER SERVING 444kcals, 15.1g
fat (2g saturated), 13.5g protein,
59.4g carbs (5.6g sugars),
no salt, 8g fibre

V IS FOR VEGETARIAN

Spring green, heat. Add a glug of oil, then

sweet potato and
chilli frittata
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN,
OVEN TIME 15 MIN
3 sweet potatoes, peeled
and sliced
Olive oil
1 onion, chopped
100g spring greens, finely
shredded
1 tsp chilli flakes
2 garlic cloves, chopped
6 large free-range eggs
50ml skimmed milk
100g frozen peas, thawed
100g soft goats cheese
1 Heat the oven to 180C/
160C fan/gas 4. Bring a large
pan of salted water to the boil,
then add the sweet potatoes
and cook for 10 minutes or
until nearly tender. Drain.
2 Heat a 23cm ovenproof
frying pan over a medium
fry the onion for a few minutes
or until it starts to colour. Add
the spring greens and fry for
3-4 minutes until they start to
soften. Add the drained sweet
potato along with the chilli
and garlic, then lower the
heat and cook for 5 minutes.
3 In a bowl, whisk the eggs
with the milk until combined,
then season with salt and
pepper. Add the peas and
goats cheese, then mix again.
Pour the egg mixture over the
vegetables in the frying pan
and stir a little to combine.
Transfer to the oven and cook
for 15 minutes or until set.
Turn out the frittata, slice
into wedges and serve with
a bitter leaf salad tossed
in a lemony dressing.
PER SERVING 503kcals,
22.8g fat (8.3g saturated),
24.2g protein, 45.4g carbs
(14.5g sugars), 1.1g salt,
9.8g fibre

WorldMags.net deliciousmagazine.co.uk 107

 ONE-PAN WONDER
WorldMags.net
Chicken noodle
soup
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN
20g butter
2 leeks, finely sliced
4 carrots, thinly sliced
2 celery sticks, finely
chopped
2 garlic cloves, crushed
10g grated fresh ginger
1.2 litres fresh chicken
stock
150g medium egg noodles
2 cooked skinless
free-range chicken
breasts, shredded
Juice 1 lemon
Fresh flatleaf parsley
leaves to garnish
(optional)
1 In a large, deep saucepan,
melt the butter over a
low-medium heat. Add the
leeks, carrots and celery,
then season with salt. Gently
fry for 10 minutes, stirring
regularly, until the veg has
coloured a little and softened
slightly. You may need to turn
down the heat a little if the
vegetables start to burn.
2 Add the garlic and ginger,
then cook for a minute before
pouring in the stock. Bring
the soup to a simmer and
gently bubble for 10 minutes
or until the vegetables are
nearly cooked.
3 Crumble the noodles into
the soup, then add the
shredded chicken and lemon
juice. Taste and season with
salt and pepper, then simmer
for 2-3 minutes more until
the noodles are tender.
Garnish with fresh flatleaf
parsley, if you like.
PER SERVING 378kcals,
9.2g fat (4g saturated),
30.6g protein, 38.3g carbs
(11.1g sugars), 1.6g salt,
10.1g fibre
Griddled chicken, burn (you may need to do
avocado and this in batches).
pumpernickel salad 2 When the chicken is cooked,
set aside in a large salad bowl,
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN brush a little oil over the
pumpernickel and put on the
3 tbsp olive oil griddle pan. Grill the bread for
4 free-range chicken thighs, 5 minutes, turning once, until
skinless and boneless, sliced toasted and crunchy. Take the
100g pumpernickel bread griddle pan off the heat, tear the
1 tbsp wholegrain mustard bread into small pieces and add
Zest and juice 1 lemons to the chicken in the bowl.
2 tsp clear honey 3 Mix the mustard with the
1 ripe avocado, finely sliced lemon zest and juice and the
cucumber, sliced honey, then slowly add the
100g radishes, finely sliced rest of the oil (about 2 tbsp),
100g watercress whisking until emulsified.
Season. Add the avocado,
1 Rub a little oil (about tbsp) cucumber, radishes and
over the chicken pieces, then watercress to the bowl, then
season with salt and pepper. toss with the dressing. Season
Heat a large griddle or frying to taste and serve straightaway.
pan over a medium-high heat, PER SERVING 321kcals, 19g fat
then fry the chicken pieces for (3.5g saturated), 20.3g protein,
10 minutes, turning regularly 15.1g carbs (4.1g sugars),
so they gain colour but dont 0.7g salt, 4.2g fibre
WorldMags.net

WorldMags.net
V IS FOR VEGETARIAN
Roasted
cauliflower and
pesto pasta
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN
1 large cauliflower (or
2 small cauliflowers),
broken into florets
Olive oil
250g short pasta (we used
fusilli)
2 red onions, chopped
WorldMags.net
3 garlic cloves, chopped
50g raisins, soaked in boiling
water for 10 minutes
200g young leaf spinach
Zest and juice 1 lemon
50ml shop-bought fresh
vegetarian pesto
1 Heat the oven to 200C/
180C fan/gas 6. Toss the
cauliflower in a little olive oil,
then roast for 25 minutes or
until golden and tender.
Meanwhile, cook the pasta in
boiling salted water for 8-10
minutes according to the pack
lighter eating.
instructions it should still
have some bite. Drain, drizzle
with olive oil and keep warm.
2 In a large frying pan, heat a
glug of oil over a medium heat.
Add the onions and garlic and
cook gently for 8 minutes or
until soft. Add the cooked pasta,
roasted cauliflower, drained
raisins, spinach, lemon zest and
juice, and pesto, then toss until
wilted. Season, then serve.
PER SERVING 473kcals, 13g fat
(2g saturated), 15.7g protein,
68.4g carbs (20g sugars),
0.4g salt, 9.5g fibre
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 109
WorldMags.net FRIDAY NIGHT DINNER

Pork tenderloin
with roasted feta,
rosemary, sage and
olive oil potatoes
SERVES 3-4. HANDS-ON TIME 25 MIN,
OVEN TIME 40 MIN

1kg maris piper potatoes, cut

into 2cm cubes
2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra
1 British free-range pork
tenderloin (around 420g)
150g feta, crumbled
A few fresh rosemary sprigs
Handful fresh sage
Zest and juice 1 lemon
260g spinach
1 tsp chilli flakes (optional)

1 Heat the oven to 200C/

180C fan/gas 6. Put the cubed
potatoes in a large roasting tray,
drizzle with the 2 tbsp oil, then
season with salt and pepper and
toss. Roast for 25 minutes.
2 Meanwhile, heat a large frying
pan over a high heat and add
a glug of olive oil. Season the
pork tenderloin, then add to the
pan and sear for 5-6 minutes
until evenly golden all over.
3 After 25 minutes, toss the
potatoes and nestle the pork in
among them. Crumble the feta
around the pork, then add the
herbs and lemon zest. Roast for
a further 15 minutes or until the
pork has cooked through. If you
have a digital thermometer the
meat should read 65-70C.
4 Wilt the spinach with a splash
of water in a large lidded pan
over a medium heat, then drain.
Toss the spinach with a good
squeeze of lemon juice, a little
olive oil and some salt and
pepper, then serve with the
pork and potatoes, sprinkled
with chilli flakes if using.
PER SERVING (FOR 4) 520kcals,
18.4g fat (7.7g saturated),
35.6g protein, 49.4g carbs (3.8g
sugars), 1.3g salt, 7.1g fibre

WorldMags.net
 lighter eating.

WorldMags.net

V IS FOR VEGETARIAN

Roasted shallot
and parsnip
lentil salad
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN,
OVEN TIME 40 MIN

4 tbsp olive oil

3 shallots, finely sliced
250g parsnips, chopped
3 tbsp red wine vinegar
1 tbsp clear honey
Juice 1 lemons
2 x 400g tins green lentils,
rinsed thoroughly and
drained
100g rocket
Large bunch fresh flatleaf
parsley
20g parmesan (or vegetarian
alternative), shaved with
a vegetable peeler

1 Heat the oven to 200C/

180C fan/gas 6. Put 2 tbsp oil
in a large roasting tray and add
the shallots, parsnips, red wine
vinegar and honey. Season
generously with salt and
pepper, then roast for 40
minutes until golden and crisp.
2 Meanwhile, mix the remaining
2 tbsp oil with the lemon juice
and season with salt and
pepper. Stir the dressing into
the lentils along with the rocket
and parsley. Mix in the roasted
vegetables, season to taste,
then top with the parmesan
shavings to serve.
PER SERVING 286kcals,
16.3g fat (3.1g saturated),
9.4g protein, 20.6g carbs (8.9g
sugars), 0.6g salt, 8.8g fibre
Pan-fried salmon 1 Heat 1 tbsp olive oil in a
medium frying pan over
with sweet-and- a low-medium heat. Add the
sour leeks leeks and cook, stirring, for
10-12 minutes until soft. Add
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME the sugar and vinegar and
30 MIN cook for 5 minutes or until
sweet and sticky. Set aside.
3 tbsp olive oil 2 Wipe the frying pan with
4 leeks, finely sliced kitchen paper, then add
1 tbsp brown sugar another 1 tbsp oil and heat
1 tbsp balsamic until almost smoking hot.
vinegar Add the salmon fillets and
4 sustainably sourced cook for 4 minutes, skin-side
salmon fillets down. Turn and cook for
200g kale 4 minutes more until golden
Juice 1 lemon and just cooked through. Boil
Steamed potatoes to serve a kettleful of water. Put the
(optional) kale in a colander, then pour
over the boiling water.
3 Put the salmon on a plate
and cover with foil to keep
warm. Add another 1 tbsp oil
to the frying pan and, over
a medium-high heat, stir-fry
the wilted kale for 2 minutes.
Add a good squeeze of lemon
juice, then season with salt
and pepper. Mix in the leeks
and taste it may need a little
more vinegar. Divide the leeks
and kale among plates and
top with the fish. Serve with
steamed potatoes if you like.
PER SERVING 409kcals, 22.2g
fat (4.2g saturated), 37.3g
protein, 11.7g carbs (10.7g
sugars), 0.2g salt, 6.5g fibre

WorldMags.net deliciousmagazine.co.uk 111

lighter eating.
SHORTCUT SUPPER
WorldMags.net
Beef stroganoff
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN
Olive oil for frying
3 x 150g free-range British
rump steaks
6 shallots, thinly sliced
200g chestnut mushrooms,
quartered
2 tbsp wholegrain
mustard
100ml beef stock
112 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
Juice lemon, plus an extra
squeeze
80ml half-fat crme frache
Large handful fresh flatleaf
parsley, finely chopped
2 x 250g steamed rice (we
like Tilda basmati rice)
1 Set a frying pan over a high
heat and add a glug of oil. When
the oil is shimmering, add the
steaks and fry for 2 minutes on
each side. The meat should be
very rare as it will cook in the
sauce, too. Set the steaks aside.
WorldMags.net
2 Turn the heat under the pan
to low, then add the shallots
and fry for 5 minutes. Add
the mushrooms and fry for
10 minutes more or until the
mushrooms start to soften
and brown.
3 Stir in the mustard, stock
and lemon juice. Season with
salt and pepper, then simmer
for 5 minutes. Stir in the crme
frache and turn the heat down
dont let it boil. Heat the rice
according to the pack
instructions. Slice the
beef into strips, then stir it
into the sauce, along with any
resting juices and the parsley.
Serve with the rice and an extra
squeeze of lemon juice.
PER SERVING 431kcals, 14.6g
fat (4.9g saturated), 32.8g
protein, 41g carbs (2.1g
sugars), 0.7g salt, 1.7g fibre
SHORTCUT INGREDIENTS ARE HIGHLIGHTED IN BLUE
NEXT
MONTH
Energy-boost
meals to
keep you
feeling fuller
for longer
 lighter eating.

HEALTHY MAKEOVER
WorldMags.net
RICE PUDDING
Properly creamy, sink-your-spoon-in rice pudding is
a wondrous thing. Weve gone heavy on the comfort
here, but eased up on the calorie and fat count
RECIPE LOTTIE COVELL PHOTOGRAPH MAJA SMEND
FOOD STYLING CHARLIE CLAPP STYLING OLIVIA WARDLE

Lighter vanilla TRADITIONAL MAKEOVER

rice pudding VERSION VERSION
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 50 MIN 785 kcals 197 kcals
67g fat 2.3g fat
Rice pudding is notoriously (41.8g saturated) (1.3g saturated)
HOW WE calorific, but simple to make 5.9g protein 7.2g protein
DID IT
healthier. Weve swapped 39.2g carbs 49g carbs
(23g sugars) (14.7g sugars)
the classic cream and full-fat milk
0.2g salt 0.2g salt
combination for semi-skimmed
0.2g fibre 0.2g fibre
milk, adding just enough Greek
yogurt at the end to give that
essential creamy texture.

100g pudding rice

750ml semi-skimmed milk
1 tsp vanilla bean paste
2-3 tbsp clear honey
to taste
4 tbsp full-fat Greek yogurt
to serve

1 Put the pudding rice, milk and

vanilla paste in a large saucepan
and bring to a gentle simmer over a
very low heat, stirring so it doesnt
stick to the base of the pan.
2 Simmer for 50 minutes, stirring
occasionally at the beginning and
more often as the rice swells, until
its tender and the consistency is
creamy. Stir in 1 tbsp of the honey.
3 Divide among 4 bowls, top each
with a tablespoonful of yogurt and
a drizzle of honey to taste, then
swirl through and serve.

WorldMags.net deliciousmagazine.co.uk 113

 WorldMags.net

V IS FOR VEGETARIAN

The vita
lit

co
y

llection
Sticky alliums
with lentils
and hazelnut
gremolata

WorldMags.net

WorldMags.net Sticky alliums with
lentils and hazelnut
gremolata
SERVES 6 AS A LIGHT MAIN COURSE.
HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, SIMMERING TIME
30 MIN, OVEN TIME 50 MIN
A zesty gremolata, more
commonly scattered over
Italian braises, lifts this
unpretentious dish based
on roast cauliflower, lentils
and mellow balsamic shallots
into sophisticated, main course
territory. If your bottle of
balsamic vinegar is a good
quality version, you could
drizzle a little extra over
each plate at the end.
Make the cauliflower
MAKE mash up to 2 days in
AHEAD
advance. To serve,
reheat on the hob (adding
a splash of water) until piping hot.
Rather than 200g french green or puy lentils
being relegated 4-5 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil,
to the sidelines, plus extra to drizzle
vegetarian Squeeze lemon juice
food is now 400g banana shallots, halved
celebrated for 1 onion, quartered
its diversity 4 tbsp balsamic vinegar
and myriad 1 large cauliflower, cut into
benefits, whether small florets
for health or in 2 garlic cloves
terms of cost to
the environment. FOR THE HAZELNUT GREMOLATA
Thoughtful 3 garlic cloves, finely
eating by which chopped
I mean healthy with a good dose of common Large bunch fresh flatleaf
sense shouldnt be tricky, and I hope the parsley, finely chopped
emphasis here on ebullient vegetables and Finely grated zest 2 lemons
bold flavours will inspire you. Theres an 75g shelled hazelnuts, toasted
interest in health and vitality threaded in a dry frying pan, then coarsely
through these dishes but its a measured crushed
and realistic strand.
Above all, my intention is that youll cook 1 Put the lentils in a medium pan
these recipes for yourself or your loved ones, and cover with plenty of cold water.
vegetarian or not, and they will bring joy. Bring to the boil, add a generous
ALICE HART, COOKBOOK AUTHOR AND VEG LOVER pinch of salt, then turn the heat
down and leave to simmer gently
for 20-30 minutes until tender. Drain
and dress with a splash of olive oil
PHOTOGRAPHS EMMA LEE and lemon juice.
FOOD STYLING LIZZIE KAMENETZKY 2 Meanwhile, heat the oven to
STYLING TABITHA HAWKINS 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Put the
WorldMags.net
meat-free inspiration.
shallots and onion in a small
roasting tin, season and drizzle
with 2 tbsp of the olive oil. Cover
tightly with foil and roast for
40 minutes or until very soft.
Uncover, drizzle with the balsamic
vinegar and return to the oven for
5-10 minutes, stirring once or twice,
until caramelised and sticky.
3 Meanwhile toss the cauliflower
and whole garlic cloves with
2-3 tbsp olive oil, as needed, to coat.
Spread out in another roasting tin
and roast for 20-25 minutes until the
cauliflower is very tender and just
beginning to brown. Transfer the
cauliflower and garlic to a food
processor with an extra drizzle of
olive oil. Whizz until smoothish you
may need a splash or two of water
to get it smooth. (Alternatively,
mash the cauliflower and garlic
by hand with a potato masher.)
Season with salt and pepper.
4 To make the hazelnut gremolata,
combine all the ingredients
in a bowl, cover and set aside in
a cool place.
5 Serve a generous spoonful
of warm cauliflower mash
with a spoonful of lentils on top,
followed by the sticky alliums.
Scatter with gremolata, then
drizzle lightly with olive oil to finish.
PER SERVING 373kcals, 18.5g fat
(2.1g saturated), 14.9g protein,
31.8g carbs (12.6g sugars), no salt,
9.9g fibre
WINE EDITORS CHOICE A white that
isnt too brightly fruity, such as
a nutty white rhne or southern
French marsanne, suits this.
Pumpkin and
sesame fritters
MAKES 16; SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME
1 HOUR
The pumpkin you choose
here is the key to success. Best
bet: the grey-blue crown prince
variety for its dense, sweet and
firm flesh. Butternut squash will
do, but the batter may need a
touch more flour. Hold your
nerve though too much will
make a gluey fritter: better
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 115
 WorldMags.net
sesame fritters, p115
instead to leave the fritters
alone when frying and to use
enough oil. A mild sesame and
yogurt sauce balances the
pumpkins sweetness.
Roast the pumpkin up to 24
MAKE hours ahead. Cool, chill and
AHEAD
mix in just before cooking.
900g dense pumpkin (see recipe
introduction), plus 2 tbsp pumpkin
seeds see step 1
2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for frying
225ml vegetable stock
100g wholegrain couscous
1 tbsp wholemeal plain flour or
Recipes from
The New spelt flour
Vegetarian 1 medium free-range egg, beaten
by Alice Hart, Small handful fresh basil leaves,
published
shredded
by Square
Peg on Finely grated zest 1 lemon, plus
17 March (25) lemon wedges to serve (optional)
116 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
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Pumpkin and
3 tbsp sesame seeds, toasted
in a dry frying pan until golden
Peppery salad leaves and lemon
wedges to serve
FOR THE SESAME YOGURT SAUCE
Juice 1 lemon
1 garlic clove, crushed
2 tbsp light tahini
4 tbsp natural yogurt
90ml hot water
1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/
gas 6. If the pumpkin seeds are
plump and shiny, scoop them out
and set aside 2 tbsp (if theyre flat
and wizened, use bought pumpkin
seeds instead). Slice the flesh into
slim wedges, skin and all, and toss
with 2 tbsp oil in a roasting tin. Roast
for 35 minutes or until soft and
browned. Take out and leave to cool.
Reduce the oven temperature to a
warming setting (as low as it will go).
2 Meanwhile bring the stock to the
boil in a small pan. Put the couscous
in a heatproof bowl and pour the hot
stock over to cover. Cover with a
plate, set aside for 5 minutes, then
fluff up with a fork and leave to cool.
3 To make the sesame yogurt sauce,
combine all the ingredients in
a small bowl and season to taste.
4 If they were worth saving, rinse
the reserved pumpkin seeds,
removing any orange fibres clinging
to them, then put in a heatproof
bowl. Boil a kettle and pour enough
water over the seeds to cover. Let
them steep for 15 minutes, then
drain. (If using bought pumpkin
seeds, skip this step.)
5 Pare the now-soft skin from the
pumpkin with a small knife (discard)
and put the flesh in a mixing bowl.
Mash it lightly. Add the cooked
couscous, flour, egg, basil, lemon
zest and half the toasted sesame
seeds. Mix well and season to taste.
6 Set a large frying pan over a
medium heat. Add enough olive oil
to form a thin film over the surface.
Add the drained (or bought) pumpkin
seeds and cook for a few minutes,
stirring, until golden. Remove to
a plate. Make sure theres still a
covering of oil in the pan and heap in
spoonfuls of batter to make patties,
being sure not to crowd the pan.
Cook for 5-8 minutes on each side
until golden and crisp-edged,
reducing the heat a little if they
colour too fast. Remove to a plate
and keep warm in the oven. Repeat
to cook all the fritters; you should
have about 16, depending on size.
7 Serve the hot fritters with the fried
pumpkin seeds, the remaining
sesame seeds and peppery salad
leaves, offering the sauce alongside
and lemon wedges, if you like.
PER SERVING 444kcals, 28.4g fat
(4.8g saturated), 14.8g protein,
29.2g carbs (6g sugars), 0.4g salt,
6.8g fibre
WINE EDITORS CHOICE A good
quality ginger beer or a simple,
young red Burgundy.
For more ways with wholegrain
couscous see Loose Ends
 meat-free inspiration.

Thai green
WorldMags.net
sweetcorn soup
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 35 MIN,
SIMMERING TIME 20 MIN

Considering its lively base,

loosely borrowed from a Thai
green curry paste, this is
a surprisingly soothing (vegan)
soup, thanks to the richness lent
by sweetcorn, coconut and
cashews. If you need to cut
corners here, use a couple of
spoons of a good quality bought
Thai green curry paste.

The soup will keep in the

MAKE fridge for up to 3 days
AHEAD
or in the freezer for up to
1 month. Reheat to serve.

100g cashew nuts, roughly

chopped
2 shallots, roughly chopped
1 large garlic clove, smashed
5cm fresh ginger, roughly
chopped
2 kaffir lime leaves, fresh or
frozen
2 lemongrass stalks, outer layers
removed, inner roughly chopped
1 green chilli, deseeded if you
prefer your food less spicy,
roughly chopped
Small bunch fresh coriander,
stalks and leaves separated
2 tbsp groundnut oil
250g frozen sweetcorn kernels
(or, when in season, the kernels
from 2 large corn cobs)
400ml tin coconut milk
400ml vegetable stock (refill
the emptied coconut can to
measure out) Creamy
sweetcorn soup
1-2 squeezes lime juice or gets a Thai twist
to taste
Small handful fresh Thai basil or
coriander leaves to serve

1 Put the chopped cashews in

a bowl, cover with water and set
aside to soften for 15 minutes.
Whizz the shallots, garlic, ginger,
kaffir lime leaves, lemongrass,
green chilli and coriander stalks
together in the bowl of a food
processor. Scrape the bowl down

WorldMags.net deliciousmagazine.co.uk 117

meat-free inspiration.
WorldMags.net
Cauli cheese
in a
wholesome
new guise
a couple of times between whizzes,
and process until the mixture is very
finely chopped.
2 Put the groundnut oil in a large
saucepan set over a low-medium
heat. Add the whizzed-up mixture
and fry gently for 10 minutes,
stirring often, until soft and fragrant
but not highly coloured.
3 Drain the cashews, add to
the pan and cook for a couple of
minutes. Tip in the sweetcorn and
cook for 5 minutes more, stirring
often. Pour in the coconut milk and
stock. Bring to the boil, then turn
the heat down and simmer gently
for 15-20 minutes. Stir in the
coriander leaves.
4 Blend in the pan until most of
the soup is smooth, using a stick
blender, or keep half a mugful
NEXT back and blend the rest in 2 batches
MONTH
in a food processor or blender.
Veggie dishes
that dont rely Either way, keeping a small
on cheese amount of the soup unblended
118 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
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adds welcome texture.
5 Taste and adjust the seasoning
as needed: a squeeze of lime juice
should perk up the flavours, so
add a little, then taste and see if
you want any more. Divide the
soup among warmed bowls and
scatter with Thai basil or coriander
leaves for extra fragrance.
PER SERVING 422kcals, 35.8g fat
(18.3g saturated), 9.8g protein,
13.4g carbs (4.9g sugars), 0.6g salt,
3.3g fibre
WINE EDITORS CHOICE The low
acidity and soft peachy/melon
flavour of a gewrztraminer work
well with this.
Cauliflower and
barley cheese
SERVES 4 AS A MAIN OR 6-8 AS A SIDE.
HANDS-ON TIME 40 MIN, OVEN TIME
1 HOUR 15 MIN
Whole, roast cauliflowers
sit in a sharp sauce, singing
with cheddar and rich in crme
frache. Nubbly barley grains
(or spelt, if thats what you have)
are stirred through before the
final bake, adding bolster and
texture. Diet food this most
certainly isnt, but then this
is a cookery book, not a diet
book, and sometimes a cold
day demands something proper.
A crisp salad of bitter leaves
or steamed greens both work
well alongside, if this is to be
a main course dish.
This is best eaten on the day
MAKE its cooked, but leftovers
AHEAD
reheated well in the
delicious. test kitchen and made
a great lunch for a couple of days.
Reheat in the oven at 180C/160C
fan/gas 4, covered with foil, until
heated through, then remove the foil
to re-crisp the top for 10 minutes.
100g pearl barley or spelt
4 small cauliflower heads,
trimmed (I used romanesco and
purple cauliflowers for dramatic
effect) or 2 large ones, halved
Olive oil for frying
1 banana shallot, finely
chopped
3 tbsp dry white wine
250g vintage or extra mature
cheddar, grated
1 tsp dijon mustard
150g crme frache
Handful stale breadcrumbs
Small handful fresh flatleaf
parsley, chopped (optional)
1 Cover the barley or spelt in a pan
with plenty of water and add a pinch
of salt. Bring to the boil on the hob,
then simmer for 20-25 minutes until
just tender. Drain well and set aside.
2 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/
gas 6. Cut a deep cross in the stalk
of each cauliflower and make sure
they sit flat. Toss them in a generous
amount of oil to coat and put in an
ovenproof dish (they should fit quite
snugly as the sauce needs to collect
around them later on). Cover loosely
with foil and roast for 40-45 minutes
until tender to the point of a knife.
3 To make the sauce, heat a splash
of oil in a heavy-based saucepan, add
the shallot and cook for 5 minutes
or so until translucent and softened.
Add the wine and bubble to reduce
to 1 tbsp. Turn down the heat to its
lowest setting and add the cheese,
mustard and crme frache. Stir
constantly until the cheese has
melted into a smooth sauce. Stir in
the barley/spelt and season to taste;
its a strong and sparky sauce so it
shouldnt need much salt, if any.
4 Spoon the sauce over and around
the cauliflowers, concentrating the
grains in the base of the dish where
they wont catch and burn. Toss
the breadcrumbs with a drizzle
of olive oil to moisten, then scatter
over the top. Return to the oven for
15-20 minutes until browned
and bubbling. Throw on the chopped
parsley before serving, if you like.
PER SERVING (FOR 8) 365kcals,
24.9g fat (12.8g saturated), 13.5g
protein, 19.3g carbs (4.9g sugars),
0.7g salt, 2.9g fibre
WINE EDITORS CHOICE A rich dish
calls for a rich wine, so make it
a ripe, buttery Australian semillon-
chardonnay.
WorldMags.net

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leftovers.

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LOOSE ENDS
Dont let this months special ingredients linger in your kitchen
make the most of them with these smart and easy ideas

GOATS CHEESE PUMPERNICKEL CHIPS

MARINATED
FROM GOATS CHEESE
SPRING ONION,
HERBY RICOTTA Put pieces of
AND NDUJA
TOASTS, P86 goats cheese
into a sterilised
glass jar, add a few peeled
cloves of garlic, fresh thyme
sprigs and whole peppercorns,
then pour over good quality
olive oil to cover. Marinate for
a week in the fridge. Use in
salads or on toast.
CHEESE CROUTONS
Tear up leftover day-old bread,
toss in olive oil and season.
Spread out on a baking sheet,
crumble over goats cheese,
then bake at 200C/180C fan/
gas 6 until golden. Use in soup.
LEEK AND GOATS
CHEESE PARCELS
Cook finely sliced leek and
onion until soft. Cool, put in
a bowl, beat in an egg yolk and
crumble in goats cheese,
Slice the pumpernickel thinly,
then cut into triangles. Drizzle
with olive oil and season. Bake
at 200C/180C fan/gas 6 until
crisp. Cool and serve with dip.
POMEGRANATE
MOLASSES
LAMB
MARINADE
FROM
POMEGRANATE Combine
CAKE, P93
pomegranate
molasses,
crushed garlic, dried sumac
and olive oil in a bowl, then
season well. Add lamb chops
and rub in well. Marinate for
30 minutes, then grill.
POMEGRANATE HOUMOUS
Whizz a tin of drained chickpeas
with tahini, pomegranate
molasses, crushed garlic,
lemon juice and seasoning in a
food processor. Pour in a few COUSCOUS SALAD triangles in an ovenproof dish,
tbsp of olive oil in a thin stream Combine cooked couscous, pour over the egg mixture and

lemon zest and chopped fresh
parsley. Cut 1 sheet of ready-
made, all-butter puff pastry into
triangles, top with the mixture,
brush the edges with beaten
egg, fold in half and seal. Brush
with beaten egg and bake at
180C/160C fan/gas 4 for
10-12 minutes until golden.
PUMPERNICKEL
BREAD
PUMPERNICKEL
FROM
GRIDDLED STUFFING
CHICKEN,
AVOCADO AND Fry chopped
PUMPERNICKEL
SALAD, P108 onion, garlic,
celery, apple
and bacon until golden. Add
cubes of pumpernickel bread,
fresh parsley, a free-range egg
and season. Use as a stuffing
for roast chicken or rolled pork.
until smooth and creamy. Top
with fresh pomegranate seeds.
SPARKLING COCKTAIL
Pour 1 tsp pomegranate
molasses into a champagne
flute and top with prosecco
or cava. Or use sparkling water
to make it a mocktail.
WHOLEGRAIN
COUSCOUS
STUFFED
FROM PEPPERS
PUMPKIN
AND SESAME Fry a chopped
FRITTERS,
P115 onion, add
minced beef
and brown well. Stir in cooked
couscous and some crumbled
feta. Use to stuff halved red
peppers and bake at 180C/
160C fan/gas 4 for 20 minutes
or until the peppers are soft.
raisins, chopped pistachios
(or any nuts you have handy),
fresh rocket leaves and
a handful of fresh parsley
leaves. Dress with lemon juice
and a good glug of olive oil,
then season well.
FRESH GINGER
MADEIRA
BOOZY CREAM
FROM STUFFED Stir leftover
LEG OF PORK
WITH CONFIT madeira into
POTATOES, P62
crme frache or
whipped cream
and dollop onto your favourite
cake or pudding.
BREAD PUDDING
Beat together 4 free-range
eggs, 240ml double cream and
240ml whole milk with 120ml
madeira in a bowl. Arrange
slices of white bread cut into
WORDS: LOTTIE COVELL. PHOTOGRAPH: TOBY SCOTT. FOOD STYLING: MONIQUE LANE. STYLING: OLIVIA WARDLE
sprinkle over a couple of
spoonfuls of brown sugar. Dot
with butter and bake at 160C/
140C fan/gas 3 for 20-25
minutes until just wobbly in the
centre. Best served warm.
LIVEN UP
FROM
WARMING A SMOOTHIE
SWEET POTATO
AND Add a 1cm piece
GINGER
SOUP, P52 of fresh, peeled
ginger to your
morning smoothie or juice for
an added kick.
SALAD DRESSING
Add a few fine slices of fresh
ginger to a bottle of white wine
vinegar, then seal. The ginger
will impart its flavour to the
vinegar, adding an interesting
twist to salad dressings.

120 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
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BE A BE T TER COOK

BE A BE T TER COOK
1 0 PA G E S O F K N OW - H OW T O G ET YO U C O O K I N G
S M A R T E R , FA S T E R A N D W I T H G R E AT E R C O N F I D E N C E
M E ET O U R
EXPERTS
THE CHALLENGE:
KOUIGN AMANN p128
These crunchy, buttery

M A RCH 2016
Breton pastries may
have foxed the
REBECCA Great British Bake Off
WOOLLARD contestants in 2014,
Food editor but our step-by-step
guide guarantees
success every time.
Get ready to be
crowned Star Baker

LOTTIE
COVELL
Deputy
food editor

ELLA TARN
Cookery
assistant

STEP BY STEP
SCOTCH EGGS p125
Everyone loves these
parcels of tender
LUCAS sausagemeat encasing
HOLLWEG
Chef, food writer
just-runny boiled
and delicious. eggs. Find out how
contributor easy it is to make this
pub staple at home

XANTHE CLAY
Chef, writer,
preserves and
freezing expert

TECHNIQUE: HOW LONG TO

BLIND BAKE A PASTRY CASE? p126
Weve got all the essential
information you need on how to
bake perfect tart cases now you
can do it with your eyes shut

WorldMags.net deliciousmagazine.co.uk 121

 WorldMags.net
THIS MONTH IN OUR TEST KITCHEN...
As the delicious. food team cook and test recipes, theres constant tinkering and fervent discussion:
timesaving ideas; new tricks weve heard of; some technique weve dreamed up and want to try
Then there are the questions and input we get from colleagues as they come to see whats cooking.
On these pages, our aim (with help from our regular experts) is to reproduce that test kitchen
atmosphere, sharing the most useful ideas and tips weve discovered. Its cookery gold!
IS IT OK TO...
SERVE PORK
MEDIUM-RARE?
Most people believe theres only one
way to cook pork: well done. The
argument for doing this was to kill
the trichinella parasite which can
cause disease. But the parasite is
now rare in modern farming.
Indeed, its so rare that, in the
US, official advice for cooking pork
is that it only has to reach 62C for
3 minutes. However, the UKs Food
Standards Agency tells us to cook
pork until steaming hot (possibly
even as high as 71C its not
clear) and until no longer pink.
Trichinellosis is no longer the
reason. Now, the worry is hepatitis
E, a virus that can be carried by
pigs and passed on to humans.
What to do? We advise buying
your meat from a reputable butcher
and cooking rolled joints, sausages,
burgers and other processed pork
products until 70C or slightly over.
However, whole pork cuts or joints
can be seared or browned on the
outside (which will kill any bacteria
and add flavour), then cooked to
RECIPE MATHS EVERY COOK NEEDS TO KNOW your liking inside we suggest
medium at 65C.

MAKING PASTA
Per person: 1 large egg + 100g pasta flour + pinch salt
There are many ways to make egg pasta,
but this is the simplest: whizz the pasta
flour (tipo 00) in a food processor with
the salt and eggs until the mixture comes
together in clumps of moist crumbs.
Tip out onto a floured work surface,
press into a ball using your hands, then
knead for about 10 minutes until smooth
and silky (if its dry, add 1 tsp olive oil;
if its too sticky, add a bit more flour).
Wrap in cling film, then chill for
30 minutes. Roll out and pass through
a pasta machine until its the correct
thickness. Cut into the required shape
on a work surface dusted with fine
semolina to prevent sticking.

122 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
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BE A BE T TER COOK
TECHNIQU E

How to roll a swiss roll

MAKE THE BOUNTY LAST

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES
These knobbly tubers have a wonderful nutty flavour,

T E S T K I T CHEN
so even though the fartichoke nickname may be
justified, theyre worth it! Anyway, slow-cooking or
fermenting helps make them less anti-social

FREEZE They dont freeze well whole, so peel, then

gently simmer 1kg jerusalem artichokes until
tender. Drain, then whizz in a food processor with
1 2
2 tbsp butter or olive oil into a pure. Cool, then
freeze in bags for up to 3 months. Use in veg soups
or mix with mashed potato to serve with roast beef.
PRESERVE You can make a vinegar-based pickle with
jerusalem artichokes, or ferment them sauerkraut-
style this reduces their windiness. Grate/spiralise
(ribbons rather than spaghetti) 500g jerusalem
artichokes. Mix with 1 tbsp sea salt and 1 tsp
ground turmeric, then pack tightly into a sterilised
1 litre glass jar. Add cold water to cover, keeping
them submerged with pebbles (sterilised first in
boiling water). Fix a tea towel over the top with a
rubber band and leave. Taste after 5 days to see if
its sour enough if not, leave a little longer. When 3 4
ready, pop a lid on and chill. Use within a month.

1 Turn out the warm,

cooked sponge onto
baking paper dusted
3 Start at either the
short or long edge
and, using the baking
the ends to help
make the first crease.
Lift the baking paper
PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK, GETTY, NASSIMA ROTHACKER, TOBY SCOTT, LAURA EDWARDS, STUART WEST

True or false? with cocoa powder or

icing sugar, then peel
paper to lift the edge
of the sponge, make
up and forward to roll
the sponge, using the
THE CLAIM COOKING GREEN off the top layer of a short fold over the paper to press gently
VEGETABLES IN SALTED WATER
WORDS: THE FOOD TEAM AND LUCAS HOLLWEG. ADDITIONAL WORDS: XANTHE CLAY.

baking paper and filling. Keep some down on it and keep

ADDS FLAVOUR AND KEEPS
leave it to cool. tension in the paper the roll tight.
THEIR COLOUR VIBRANT

FALSE
Green veg, such as beans or cabbage, dont absorb
2 Spread the filling
over the sponge,
leaving a border.
to support the roll
along its length and
use your fingers at
4 Sit the rolled cake
on its seam, then
remove the paper.
the water theyre cooked in, so any added salt or,
at least, most of it will be drained away. Nor does
salt in the water help fix the chlorophyll that
gives the veg its greenness. In fact it can do the
opposite as sea salt can contain elements KOUIGN AMANNS: THE MAKEOVER
that harden the water (see( below). W know its unlikely, but if you have any
Greens can lose theirr colour as they
cook because of acidic water, hard neaten kouign amanns (see p128), its
water (with a high calcium content) or g
good to know they can be revived, even
because theyve been o overcooked. a
after 1-2 days. Make a hole in the centre
Cook green vegetable es in plenty
with the end of a wooden spoon. Stuff with
of near-boiling unsalte ed water
until they still have somme bite marzipan, scatter with flaked almonds, then
to them. bake a
at 180C/160C fan/gas 4 for 10 minutes.
Way beetter than an almond croissant

WorldMags.net deliciousmagazine.co.uk 123

 WorldMags.net
THE KKNOWLEDGE
Its back on the good-for-you list but which kind to go for?
SALTED VS UNSALTED BUTTER
Salted butter is great on toast, but the unsalted stuff is better for
cakes, pastries and butter sauces, such as hollandaise, where
you want the pure flavour and you can control the salt content.
Its also better for shallow-frying, as it doesnt burn so easily.
Salt gives butter a longer shelf life but the quantities added
vary widely. In Britain, lightly salted butter is around 1.2% salt
and salted is upwards of 1.7%. French demi-sel (lightly salted)
butter can be 0.5-3% salt, while beurre sal (salted) is over 3%.
FAT CONTENT
British butter (and French salted butter) has a minimum fat
content of 80%. French unsalted butter has to be at least 82%.
The extra fat means the butter has a lower water content as well
as greater plasticity (according to pastry chefs). This means its
good for laminated pastries (with separated layers), such as puff
pastry, which have to survive repeated rolling and folding.
STYLES OF BUTTER
FRESH (OR SWEET) CREAM BUTTER Butter churned from fresh
(usually pasteurised) cream. Most British butter is made this way.
The source of the milk makes a big difference to the flavour. Butter
from certain breeds and grass-fed herds has a distinctive taste.
CULTURED BUTTER Thanks to its lactic cultures, this butter has
a fuller, slightly tangy flavour and a slight acidity that tenderises
pastry dough. Its usually made by adding cultures before or after
churning the butter. Most French and Italian butters are cultured.
RAW MILK BUTTER This is made from raw (unpasteurised) milk,
which has complex flavours that are often lost in pasteurisation.
Names to look out for: Fen Farm Dairy in Suffolk (fenfarmdairy.
co.uk) and Hook and Son in East Sussex (hookandson.co.uk).
WHEY BUTTER This is a by-product of cheesemaking and it tastes
nutty and sweet the cream comes from whey rather than milk.
Buy it from nealsyarddairy.co.uk and quickes.co.uk. For raw whey
butter try lincolnshirepoachercheese.co.uk or kappacasein.com.
FARMHOUSE BUTTER This term usually refers to butter made
on a farm using the farms cream, or butter traditionally churned
in small batches only using milk from local farms, such as
Netherend (netherendfarmbutter.co.uk). Its not a legal definition.
CLARIFIED BUTTER Made by melting butter so the milk solids
separate from the fat. The fat is strained off and the solids are
discarded. Clarified butter keeps much longer than unclarified
and has a higher smoke point, so doesnt burn as easily in frying.
ON CREAM
GHEE Indian-style clarified butter. Ghee is simmered until the
milk solids turn brown, then strained, giving a rich, nutty
flavour. Its used in all kinds of south
Asian cooking and can also be used in
place of clarified butter. Available
from larger supermarkets and
Asian grocers.
WorldMags.net
ROASTING KNOW-HOW
Q Why do you start off
meat in a hot oven, then
turn down the temperature?
The high heat crisps up the
exterior and browns it due to
the Maillard effect and other
reactions that add flavour.
However, if the interior reached
this temperature the meat
would dry out. Lowering the
temperature cooks the meat
more evenly throughout.
TIPS THE delicious. TEAM
LEARNED ON A DAY AT THE
RAYMOND BLANC COOKERY SCHOOL
By Mark Peregrine, head tutor
ON SHORTCRUST PASTRY
For easy handling and a less messy
kitchen: roll it out between 2 sheets of
cling film. Peel off and discard the top
sheet, then carefully flip the pastry
over your tart tin and use the cling film
(which will now be uppermost) to help
ease the pastry into the edges but
be gentle and dont stretch it.
Once youve rolled the pastry between the 2 sheets of cling film,
you can roll it up loosely, then freeze it for your own homemade
ready-rolled pastry. Thaw in the fridge before unrolling and using.
At Le Manoir, we use open rings, without bases, for tarts, and
cook them on baking paper on a baking sheet. It helps prevent
a soggy bottom because, as the cooked tart case cools on the wire
rack, the open base lets steam escape, so it doesnt soften the
pastry. You can buy 20cm tart rings at nisbets.co.uk.
If youre making sweet pastry, use icing sugar rather than caster
sugar as it dissolves more easily to give crisper pastry.
ON SELF-RAISING FLOUR
Dont bother buying it. Sift in 15g baking powder per 1kg plain flour.
We use whipping cream (38 per cent fat). Its full flavoured, wont
split when heated and has 10 per cent less fat than double cream.
ON CHOCOLATE
When melting chocolate, make sure whatever youre adding to it is
the same temperature not cold. Even 1 tsp cold water or booze
added to warm, melted chocolate will make it seize.
ON TASTING
Your taste buds work best at 43C a temperature at which most
of us would send our food back saying its not hot enough. When
tasting at the hob, let the food cool a little before you season it.
belmond.com/le-manoir-aux-quat-saisons-oxfordshire
 WorldMags.net
TECHNIQU E
How to make scotch eggs
1 2
4 5
1 Mix 500g good-quality sausagemeat
with 1 tsp ground allspice and the
leaves of 4-5 fresh thyme sprigs in a
medium bowl until well combined. Cover
with cling film, then chill for 30 minutes.
2 Put 6 medium free-range eggs (at
room temperature) in a large pan of
boiling water and cook for 6 minutes
exactly. Drain, cool under running water,
then shell. Divide the chilled meat into
6 equal portions, roll each into a ball with
DO I REALLY NEED TO
PEEL MUSHROOMS?
No. Commercial mushrooms need only a
quick wipe with damp kitchen paper if that.
Wild mushrooms, though, need brushing
to get rid of any soil, vegetation and small
creatures. You can get special brushes or
use a small, clean, fairly stiff paintbrush.
BE A BE T TER COOK
T E S T K I T CHEN
3
6
floured hands, then flatten into a disc.
3 Put a disc of meat in your palm, then
put an egg on top. Cup the meat
the breadcrumbs, shaking to remove the
excess at each step. Roll lightly in your
hands to press in the breadcrumbs. Set
around the egg, then use your other hand aside, then repeat with the other eggs.
to enclose the egg completely. Set aside.
Repeat with the eggs and meat. 5 Fill a deep pan three-quarters full
with sunflower oil, then heat to 170C
4 Put 100g plain flour, 3 lightly
beaten free-range eggs and 250g
dried breadcrumbs in 3 separate
(we recommend you use a digital probe
thermometer). Deep-fry the eggs in pairs
for 7-8 minutes until deep golden.
shallow bowls. Roll a scotch egg in the
flour. Dip it next into the egg, then into 6 Serve while still warm the yolk
should be firm but still runny.
CHARLIES PERFECT CHEESE MATCH
Montgomery cheddar & garlic roasted in chilli oil
Montys is a classic, robust cheddar. Slice off the
top of a garlic bulb, put it on a square of foil, drizzle
with spicy chilli oil, then bake for 25 minutes in a hot oven. Squeeze
the warm cloves from their papery casings onto crusty bread
and serve with the cheese. The sweet, earthy spiciness of the
garlic balances the deep, tangy, savoury taste of the cheddar.
Charlie Turnbull owns Turnbulls deli in Dorset (turnbulls-deli.co.uk)
WorldMags.net deliciousmagazine.co.uk 125
 WorldMags.net
BE A BE T TER COOK
MASTERING MERINGUES
T E S T K I T CHEN
THE BEST WAY TO
WHISK IN SUGAR
Most simple meringue recipes tell you to
whisk egg whites to soft or stiff peaks,
then gradually whisk in the sugar until glossy
and thick. Received wisdom is that adding
sugar at the beginning would reduce the
capacity of egg whites to form a foam. But
is this still the case in the age of powerful
electric mixers? Plus, some chefs advocate
whisking the sugar and whites together
from the beginning or whisking in heated
sugar. We put three methods to the test to
find out which works best
TRADITIONAL METHOD Sugar was slowly
incorporated into whisked egg whites and
quickly formed a thick, glossy mixture.
Baked for 25 minutes, the meringue was
gooey and sticky with a crisp, robust shell.
ALL-IN-ONE METHOD Egg whites and sugar
went into the mixer together right at the start,
then were whisked. This gave a softer
mixture that needed 30 minutes in the oven:
the meringue was light, broke easily and
dissolved quickly on the tongue.
HEATED SUGAR METHOD Sugar was
put onto a clean baking tray, warmed for
5 minutes in the oven, then slowly added
to whisked egg whites. This method formed
a soft whip that needed 50 minutes in the
oven. The meringue was sturdy, chewy and
caramelly our favourite.
NEW VIDEOS ONLINE NOW See delicious. expertise in action!
Want to improve your skills in the kitchen? Visit deliciousmagazine.co.uk
and find a collection of new videos to guide you through your cooking.
Discover how to: cook the perfect steak make meringues ice cakes
make pastry cook a perfect chicken and lots more
126 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
WorldMags.net
RECIPE RESCUE
SUNKEN CAKE
When a cake batter is heated,
bubbles in the mix expand or
are created, so it rises. During
cooking, the egg/flour proteins
around the bubbles firm up,
creating a sponge. But why do
cakes sometimes sink afterwards?
1 UNDERBAKING The proteins have
not set properly the cake needs
longer in the oven or to be cooked
at a higher temperature.
2 TEMPERATURE FLUCTUATION
Opening the oven door too early REMEMBER A flourless cake is
lowers the temperature before basically a souffl mix of whisked
the sponge has set in the middle. egg. When heated the trapped air
3 TOO MUCH BAKING POWDER More is expands so the cake rises. But egg
not always better if the cake rises alone doesnt set firm, so the cake,
more than its structure can like a souffl, slumps once out of
support, it will collapse as it cools. the oven. It tastes good, though.
HOW LONG DOES IT REALLY TAKE...
TO BLIND BAKE
A PASTRY CASE?
It depends on the kind of pastry and its
thickness but large shortcrust tart cases
take 25-30 minutes in total at 180C/160C/
gas 6. Bake for 15-20 minutes lined with
baking paper and filled with baking beans
to firm the pastry into a case. Then cook it
without the baking paper/beans for 10 minutes more to give it a bit of colour
and taste. Cooking the tart on a preheated baking sheet helps crisp up the
base. Check towards the end to make sure it isnt browning too much.
If youre going to fill it with a custard mixture to be baked afterwards
(such as for lemon tart), the case needs to be well cooked and crisp before
you add the filling or it will turn soggy.
If your filling is very runny, you might want to seal the pastry once
its been blind baked by brushing it liberally with beaten egg yolk, then
baking the case for 1-2 minutes more.
MERINGUE WORDS: VICTORIA BUSHNELL

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WORTH
945
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River Cottage cookery course
Hone your kitchen skills in an idyllic setting and take home the goodies
I
f you want the chance to brush up on your
breadmaking skills or have a hack at butchery, this
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*THIS COURSE IS NOT SUITABLE FOR PEOPLE WITH FOOD
River Cottages 10-year anniversary in its Devon HQ,
ALLERGIES OR SPECIFIC DIETARY REQUIREMENTS
home to Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstalls famous and
much-filmed farmhouse, weve teamed up with the
River Cottage Cookery School to offer you the chance
to perfect a wide range of kitchen skills.
The winner and a guest will take part in the Two
Days at River Cottage course, covering the basics of
breadmaking; meat, vegetable and fish cookery; and
creating great desserts. Against the stunning rural
backdrop of River Cottage HQ, youll start both days
with treats fresh from the kitchen, before getting
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just for you.
stuck into hands-on classes and demonstrations led by
the River Cottage chefs and tutors. Lunch is included
and, after a hard days cooking, youll relax and enjoy
the fruits of your labour with a three-course supper.
You should leave the course armed with new skills,
lots more confidence and heaps of cooking inspiration. CLOCKWISE FROM
Whats more, the winner will take home two River MAIN PICTURE
Cottage cookbooks and a years River Cottage On fine days,
course-goers
membership, giving discounts on future courses and eat together in
access to special offers. It will be a weekend to the River Cottage
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breadmaking
For terms and conditions, see p137. For more information is part of the
on River Cottage cookery courses, visit rivercottage.net two-day course
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 127
THE CHALLENGE
WorldMags.net
KOUIGN AMANN
PHOTOGRAPHS STUART WEST
FOOD STYLING ROSIE RAMSDEN
STYLING SARAH BIRKS

I first ate a kouign amann (pronounced queen amon

with a Breton accent) in a restaurant in Paris. I ordered
it because I was intrigued by the name. A small piece of
crisp, buttery sugared pastry arrived, hardly more than
a mouthful, but it was so good we had to order another, and
Ive been smitten ever since. The kouign amann had its big UK moment
on The Great British Bake Off in 2014, when it foxed the contestants.
Having worked to perfect this recipe,
I feel for anyone who tries to do it from
start to finish in three hours. Theres
no denying that making these pastries
is a labour of love, but most of the
time is taken up by the dough resting
in the fridge after rolling. I promise
you the rewards for your patience will
be rich. And if, like me, you think what
a croissant is really crying out for is
more butter, this is probably the
perfect pastry.
REBECCA WOOLLARD, FOOD EDITOR

WorldMags.net
 WorldMags.net
HOW WE CRACKED IT Common problems we addressed when perfecting the recipe, and how we

BE A BE T TER COOK
fixed them. As with all recipes, read it all the way through, including the tips, before you begin

Kouign amann
PROBLEM 1 PROBLEM 2 PROBLEM 3 MAKES 16. HANDS-ON TIME 1 HOUR, OVEN

The pastry is greasy The pastry is dense Not sweet enough TIME 25-30 MIN, PLUS CHILLING, RISING
AND PROVING
Most recipes Part of the
THE FIX tell you to THE FIX kouign Start these in the morning
sprinkle the sugar amanns attraction is MAKE to have them ready for
AHEAD
straight onto the butter that its a bit sweet and teatime. Or make the dough
in the dough, but we a bit savoury. To get the as in step 1, then leave in the fridge

T HE CH A LLENGE
found this made the balance right we to rise overnight. Remove from the
butter soggy and more sprinkled sugar at fridge 45 minutes before knocking
likely to leak through 3 strategic points: first back in step 2. The flavour will be
the dough layers, during the rolling and enhanced by this slow rise. The
making the pastry less folding of the dough; finished pastries will keep for 1-2
puffed and crisp. We then on both sides of days but are best on the day theyre
only incorporate the This recipe the rolled pastry baked. Warm them through if
sugar on the fourth THE FIX calls for the squares (to serving a while after baking.
roll-and-fold, which we dough to be rolled out, help them Weve measured the liquid
FOOD
found works better. And then folded, 6 times. crisp up and TEAMS by weight rather than volume
TIPS
if you notice the sugar Some recipes call for as caramelise); as its more accurate.
leaking out at any time, little as 3 roll-and- and a third time We used dried fast-action yeast
just scatter over folds, but to get the before baking, for ease but if you want to use fresh,
a light dusting of flour lightness and layering to give the crumble and rub 15g of it through the
and carry on. required, it really pastries flour before adding the salt (step 1).
needs 5-6. If any pastry a crunchy top.
is worth doing properly 500g strong white bread flour,
plus extra for dusting
7g sachet dried fast-action yeast
(see tips)
5g fine salt
300g warm water
60-80g semi-skimmed milk
300g Brittany butter (with salt
crystals in it), at a temperature
thats pliable without being soft,
plus 60g, softened, for greasing
150g caster sugar

YOULL ALSO NEED

1-2 large-hole muffin tins (youll
need 16 holes)

1 Put the flour in a mixing bowl, then

stir through the yeast and salt. Mix
the water with 60g of the milk in a
jug, then pour into the flour, stirring
with a palette knife until you get a
shaggy, but not wet, dough [A]. You
might need the extra 20g milk. Tip
out the dough onto a lightly floured
surface and knead for 10 minutes
or until smooth and elastic. Clean
the bowl and lightly grease with

WorldMags.net deliciousmagazine.co.uk 129

 WorldMags.net
A B
MORE TIPS FOR SUCCESS
Be patient! Rushing the rolling and folding of
the pastry will cause the layers to merge, forming
a dense, tough pastry. Give the dough the full
resting time in the fridge; it will make the rolling
easier, and ensure the best end results.
If you find that butter is breaking through the
layers, pat a generous amount of flour over the
exposed bit and carry on. Careful, rather than
heavy-handed, rolling will reduce the risk, as
will making sure that the underside of the dough
is well floured at all times. If necessary, brush
off the excess later.
Hold your nerve. If it doesnt look quite right,
dont assume its ruined chances are it will out the dough [E] until it has doubled
still look and taste gorgeous.
a little of the softened butter, then
return the dough to it [B]. Cover with
cling film or a plastic bag, then
leave somewhere warm to rise for
around 2 hours or overnight in the
fridge (see Make Ahead).
2 Once the dough is puffy and has
doubled in size, put the 300g butter
between 2 sheets of baking paper
and bash with a rolling pin [C] to
form a rectangle roughly 25cm x
35cm its easiest to bash it out
to a roughly correct shape, then
fold the baking paper around
it in a rectangle thats the right
size, before rolling the butter
NEXT MONTH to fit perfectly into the rectangle.
Fruit curd: start Tip the dough onto the lightly floured
with the classic
surface again, knead it briefly again
lemon spread,
then try other to knock out large air bubbles, then
fantastic flavours roll out to form a rectangle roughly
130 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
WorldMags.net
C
30cm x 45cm. It will spring back as
you roll; just be patient and try to
roll rather than stretch the dough.
3 Start with one of the short ends of
the pastry rectangle facing you.
Place the 300g butter in the bottom
two thirds of the dough [D] there
should be a small pastry border at
the sides. Fold the top third of the
dough over the middle third, dust
the flour off the exposed side, then
fold the bottom, butter-covered third
over that, as if youre folding a letter.
4 Turn the dough a quarter-turn to
the right, so one open edge is facing
you and the other is at the top. Roll
them over, brush and repeat,
in length, then repeat the rolling-
and-folding process the top third
comes down and the bottom third
goes up [F]. Neaten the edges to
keep them straight using a palette
knife or ruler (it doesnt have to be
perfect), then wrap tightly in cling
film and chill for 40-60 minutes.
Mark how many folds youve done on
the cling film (its 2 at this point).
5 Once the dough is chilled and firm,
repeat the rolling-and-folding twice
more as above. After the fourth roll,
sprinkle 100g of the sugar over the
dough, trying to leave a 1-2cm
border [G]. Fold the pastry like
a letter again, then wrap tightly in a
new piece of cling film and chill to
firm up again. Repeat the roll-and-
fold twice more (6 times in total),
still keeping the edges neat with
a palette knife, then wrap in a new
piece of cling film and chill again.
6 Once the dough is firm, roll it out
into a square, roughly 40cm x 40cm.
Use a large, heavy-bladed knife to
trim the edges into neat lines, then
cut into 16 x 9-10cm squares. Cut the
dough by pressing the blade straight
down [I], rather than sawing at it
you want to keep the layers intact.
You should be able to clearly see the
layers of butter in the dough [J].
7 Generously grease the muffin tins
with the remaining softened butter
(use it all). Brush any excess flour
from the tops of the dough squares
with a pastry brush, then sprinkle
half the remaining sugar over them,
patting gently to make it stick. Flip
reserving 2 tbsp sugar. Fold the 4
corners of each dough square into
the middle [K], then push the pastry
shapes into the muffin tins so the
folded corners are at the top [L].
Cover with a plastic bag or a loose
piece of cling film and leave to prove
somewhere cool for 45-60 minutes.
8 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/
gas 6. Once the kouign amanns
have puffed up, sprinkle with the
remaining sugar, then bake for
15 minutes. Turn the oven down
to 180C/160C fan/gas 4 and bake
for 10-15 minutes more until the
pastries are golden and crisp. Lift
them straight out of the tins onto
a wire rack, then allow to cool to
just warm or room temperature.
Enjoy with a coffee or a Breton cider.
PER KOUIGN AMANN 318kcals,
18.5g fat (11.6g saturated), 3.6g
protein, 33.8g carbs (9.9g sugars),
0.7g salt, 1.2g fibre
 WorldMags.net

BE A BE T TER COOK
T HE CH A LLENGE
D E F

G H I

J K L
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 WorldMags.net

BANGKOK
CITY OF SURPRISES
Thailand is famed for full-on flavours and spicy, tantalising food,
so it comes as a surprise that the favourite late-night snack of
its capital city is a watery rice gruel. Xanthe Clay visits
Bangkok to discover thats only half the story
PHOTOGRAPHS NAURARAT SUKSOMSTARN

WorldMags.net
 hungry traveller.

WorldMags.net It was midnight in

Bangkok, and we were
hungry. Very hungry.
We piled into the back
of a tinsel decorated
tuk-tuk, one of the thousands of
moped-powered taxis that buzz
around the city, and headed off to
find some khao tom kui, Bangkoks
favourite late-night snack.
Khao tom kui fulfils the same
role as the British post-pub kebab,
but as always with the Thais,
they arent settling for greasy,
substandard food. This is congee
(traditional rice porridge) with
bells on or, to be more specific,
with a topping of all sorts of
freshly prepared, flavour-packed
Thai goodies.

OLD-SCHOOL THAI
The stall we found under a
motorway flyover looked like
a surreal open-air squat The
Young Ones meets The Royle Family.
The television on the wall played
Thai soap operas, and there were
dogs sleeping under the table away
from the glare of the fluorescent
strip lighting. But the chef expertly
ladled out the pure white congee
into deep bowls, and tossed platter
after platter of toppings in his wok,
picking ingredients from the array
of 30-odd dishes around the gas
flame on his tiny workstation.
Onto the pink plastic plates he
tipped fried pork mince redolent of
ginger and sweet-salty fish sauce;
clams with chilli; slices of beef in
fermented bean sauce; duck with
five-spice; and wilted greens
with more ginger. And that wasnt
all: alongside were cold toppings of
spring onions, more ginger, basil,
crisp fried shallots, halved limes
and more chilli (the Thais cant get
enough ginger and chilli, and Im
not arguing with that). Once our
table was full, we perched on plastic
stools and piled the tidbits onto the
congee, turning it deep brown. As
LIGHTS IN THE DARK
we devoured the savoury, satisfying
Bangkok a city mix, the dogs, suddenly wide awake,
that never sleeps stared hopefully at us.
I was here in Thailands capital

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 WorldMags.net
CLOCKWISE FROM with Saiphin Moore, the ebullient
TOP Colourful owner of Rosas Thai Caf, which
fruit and veg
at Bangkoks Or has six branches in London with
Tor Kor market; more planned. Hailing from
London caf northern Thailand, she was my
owner and translator as well as my guide:
Thailand expert,
Saiphin Moore; by no means all the signs or menus
a night-market in the elegantly cursive but
in Bangkok, impenetrable (to me) Thai script
selling fresh
meat; maprang
were anglicised.
tiny mangoes;
a bowl of boat THE BOROUGH MARKET
noodles OF BANGKOK
Even if I had the lingo, Bangkok is
a place made for confusion, a place
of paradoxes, yin and yang, old and
new. To start with, the city is sliced
in half by the Chao Phraya river,
with the east bank housing the
modern districts and the western
side the ancient capital of Siam,
Thon Buri. But its the more modern
half that Saiphin wanted to
introduce me to, so we headed early
the next morning for the Or Tor
Kor market in the north of Bangkok,
on Kamphaengphet Road.
Inside the whitewashed building
the stalls were clean, bright and
colourful with produce. Red rose
apples, guava and maprang
tiny yellow mangoes that can
134 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
WorldMags.net
be eaten skin and all were
wrapped in smart cellophane bags.
Bundles of morning glory stems
and bags of three-month salted egg
yolks nestled alongside metre-high
mounds of garlic and deep pink
Thai shallots. There was plenty of
seafood: huge baskets of dried fish
and squid, mostly pressed paper
thin, and tiny dried shrimp. The
fresh stuff included prawns, some
as large as lobster; tuna and tilapia;
tanks of live mantis shrimps; and
piles of blue crabs, their claws
bound shut with green reeds.
I snaffled a bag of charcoal-
grilled peppercorns, smoky and
spicy, to stash in my suitcase, before
calling in at stall 9/25 for a plastic
tub of papaya salad, freshly made
by uniformed young women who
deftly scooped ingredients into
their mortars with one hand, while
pounding with the other.
Next we headed across the road
to Chatuchak Weekend Market
(chatuchak.org), a maze of tightly
packed stands selling clothes,
souvenirs and ingredients. But it
was lunchtime and we were after
kuai tiao ruea or boat noodles (the
best are found in lane 8 of the
market). Its a traditional dish of the
old capital, composed of a fiery
broth with pork or beef, often
garnished with crisp pork
scratchings. Add five-spice powder
and pigs blood as a thickener (think
of it as black pudding soup) and it
becomes namtok or waterfall
WHERE TO STAY
The Eugenia Hotel & Spa
Step back in time at this
colonial-style boutique
hotel, furnished with
antiques and interesting
paraphernalia, in the
upmarket Sukhumvit
district. theeugenia.
inetasiapreview.com
Hotel Muse
A high-rise tower near posh
Ratchadamri Road and
Lumpini Park. On the roof
is the Speakeasy bar,
popular with Bangkoks
bright young things.
hotelmusebangkok.com
 hungry traveller.

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MEET THE STREET FOOD GUYS BANGKOK IN A POT
The som tam seller Papaya salad that
tastes hot, sour,
Mr Chai (below) moved to Bangkok with sweet and salty
his family more than 10 years ago. He
used to be a rice farmer but couldnt
make ends meet after a drought ruined his
crops. Now he gets up at 1am every day to
buy ingredients at Klong Toey Market and
prepare the shreds of firm papaya that
form the base of som tam (papaya salad),
both the Laos style (with salted crab and
anchovy) and the simpler Bangkok style.
He sells 80 portions a day at 25baht (55p)
each from his cart. Theres no secret to
making great som tam I just follow my
wifes recipe. But you need good papaya.

noodles. Ask for sen yai if you like

the broad, papardelle noodles that
are satisfyingly satiny next to the
shreds of meat.

AFTER DARK
In the evening, Saiphin took me
to The Never Ending Summer,
a restaurant set in an industrial-
chic warehouse by the river
(41/5 Charoen Nakhon Rd, The Jam The coconut milk lady
Factory, Khlong San). Its popular Mauy Setio (left) set up as a coconut milk
with hip young Thais. Soigne seller in Or Tor Kor market 38 years ago
waitresses serve up traditional and she still has the callouses from
dishes such as betel leaf salad on grinding the coconuts by hand. But after
banana leaves and cool kao chae 10 years she bought a grinding machine,
(jasmine iced-water rice), exquisitely and on a busy weekend shell get through
presented and with perfectly mixed 400 coconuts to make 200kg coconut milk.
cocktails. Non-drinkers can sip Her assistants put the shelled coconut
fragrant purple glasses of water into a hopper and start up the grinder.
infused with dried flowers from the Next they scoop the snowy pulp into a
butterfly pea plant. cloth bag, then put it in a hydraulic press,
Going beyond the bounds of and rich, creamy milk gushes out. They
Thailand in its dishes is Opposite open the bag, add a scoop of water and
Mess Hall (oppositebangkok.com), press again this still counts as first
which is a hangout for local chefs press. Then they add more water, and
and serves Pan-Asian small plates re-press the coconut, for the thinner
as well as kick-ass cocktails. second pressing. Coconut milk costs
After dinner came after-dinner 60baht (1.30) whether its first or second
drinks. Saiphin recommended the press, but the first press is the best.
bars of Silom Road and Thong Lor.
We settled on the latter.

WorldMags.net deliciousmagazine.co.uk 135

hungry traveller.
WorldMags.net MIDNIGHT FEAST
Revellers never
need go hungry in
Bangkok, with its
late-night stalls
Thong Lor is a road running
perpendicular to the raised Skytrain
rails that snake futuristically
through Bangkok. We headed to the
northern end of it, to a joint
recommended by Saiphins friend,
actress, singer and girl-about-town
Bee Xoomsai.
A R Sutton & Co Engineers
Siam (Park Lane Ekkamai, G/F,
Sukhumvit Soi 63) is the only bar
still owned by Ashley Sutton, the
Australian miner-turned-designer
who revolutionised the Bangkok
bar scene with his whimsical
drinking dens. Its a steampunk
dream, complete with waistcoated
bartenders, medicine bottle
displays and a wrought-iron
spiral staircase, a world away from
the nightlife of old-school Bangkok.
By the end of the night, all we
had left to decide was whether
we had space for an after-hours
bowl of khao tom kui...
NEXT
MONTH
The insiders
guide to Nice
on the French
Riviera
136 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
WorldMags.net
TRY
THIS AT
HOME...
Saiphin Moores
Khao soi with chicken
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 25 MIN
This is best made fresh,
MAKE
AHEAD but it will keep for up to
2 days in the fridge. To
make it in advance, use boneless
chicken thighs they will stay
more tender than breasts.
Use ready-made red curry
FOOD
TEAMS paste if youre pushed for
TIPS
time, or visit delicious
magazine.co.uk/red-curry.
1 tbsp vegetable oil
3 tbsp Thai red curry paste (see
tips)
400ml coconut milk
500g skinless free-range
chicken breast, cut into
bite-size pieces
2 tbsp fish sauce
tsp dark soy sauce
1 tsp palm sugar (or brown
sugar)
4 nests dried egg noodles
TO GARNISH
Chopped pickled cabbage we
used red cabbage
Chopped shallots
Chilli sauce, such as sriracha
Fresh coriander leaves
Lime wedges
1 Heat the oil in a medium
saucepan over a high heat. Add
the curry paste and stir-fry for a
few seconds. Pour in the coconut
milk and bring to the boil, then
reduce the heat to medium and
cook, stirring occasionally, until
the red oil rises to the surface.
Add the chicken and cook for
10 minutes or until cooked through.
2 Add the fish sauce, dark soy
sauce and palm/brown sugar,
bring the mix to the boil, then turn
PHOTOGRAPH: ALEX LUCK. FOOD STYLING: LOTTIE COVELL. STYLING: DAVINA PERKINS
off the heat. Taste it it should be
slightly salty but balanced.
3 Cook the egg noodles until
tender, according to the packet
instructions, then drain and divide
among serving bowls.
4 Ladle the curry on top of the
noodles, then garnish with the
pickled cabbage, shallots, chilli
sauce and coriander. Serve with
lime wedges for squeezing.
PER SERVING 613kcals, 25.1g fat
(16.7g saturated), 40.6g protein,
54g carbs (3.9g sugars), 3.5g salt,
4.4g fibre
 for your iles.

WorldMags.net MARCH 2016

RECIPE INDEX
STARTERS, SIDES, NIBBLES
Apple and fennel slaw 52
Fennel, rocket and herb salad
with dijon vinaigrette 62
Litti chokha 90
Parmesan sabls 48
Purple sprouting broccoli with
soft-boiled egg and crisp rosemary
breadcrumbs 61
Quick apple rarebits 3
Smoked mackerel and quick-
pickled shallot toasts 61
Smoked salmon pt with
quick-pickled radish and
cucumber 51
Spinach and goats cheese
croquetas 95
56 111 40
Tortilla de bacalao 96
Chicken stewed in cider and Sticky alliums with lentils and
MAIN COURSES apples 95 hazelnut gremolata 115
BEEF Duck pancakes with quick-pickled Thai green sweetcorn soup 117 CHOCOLATE RECIPES
Beef rump with salsa verde and spring onions 87 Warming sweet potato and Banana, peanut and caramel
sherry-roast root vegetables 88 Griddled chicken, avocado and ginger soup 52 chocolate ice cream sundae IX
Beef stroganoff 112 pumpernickel salad 108 Chocolate and hazelnut
New York downtown eggs 36 Khao soi with chicken 136 SWEET THINGS sharing loaf XV
LAMB FISH AND SHELLFISH Caramelised pears with hazelnut Chocolate coffee meringue
Persian lamb, apricot and Crispy hake with cauliflower praline ice cream 98 roulade XVI
pistachio koofteh 40 pure, apples and walnuts 80 Cornish saffron hot cross Chocolate fondants X
PORK Megrim sole with grape dressing bun loaf 68 Chocolate mousse and
Almond and herb stuffed leg of and roast garlic & potato pure 82 Individual rhubarb, demerara passion fruit tart VIII
pork with confit potatoes, apples Pan-fried salmon with sweet-and- and almond cobblers 45 Chocolate porter cake XV
and madeira 62 sour leeks 111 Kouign amann 129 Chocolate truffle no-churn
Aussie egg in a hole 38 Saffron fish pie 72 Lemon, lime and ginger ice cream IX
Egg and black pudding on Soused sardines with red cabbage cheesecake 48 Hot cross bun brownies XVI
a Scottish morning roll 38 and seaweed salad cream 83 Lighter vanilla rice pudding 113 Mini melting chocolate
Eggy-bread grilled cheese Squid, fennel and chorizo salad Pomegranate cake 93 pastries VIII
sandwich 41 with orange oil 80 Saffron crme brle tart 70 Pecan and pretzel salted
Ham hock, sausage and cider Thai prawn cakes with dipping Sweetshop crispy cakes 56 caramel bars IX
raised pie 54 sauce and rocket salad 106 Vanilla cheesecake with blood Sour cherry and chocolate
Pork, leek and cider VEGETARIAN & MEAT-FREE oranges, caramel and hazelnut simnel cake with hazelnut
cobbler 44 Broccoli, chilli and lemon Hobnob crust 65 marzipan X
Pork tenderloin with roasted spaghetti 107
feta, rosemary, sage and olive oil Cauliflower and barley OTHER
potatoes 110 cheese 118 Cobbler topping 42
Scotch eggs 125 Pumpkin and sesame Demerara and lemon champagne
Spring onion, herby ricotta and fritters 115 cocktail 61 GET MORE AT THE
delicious. WEBSITE
nduja toasts 86 Roasted cauliflower and Pasta 122 Find 1,000s more tested
Ukrainian village breakfast 36 pesto pasta 109 Punchy pesto 51 recipes and techniques on
POULTRY Roasted shallot and parsnip Sweet saffron lassi 71 our website and join the
Chicken, mushroom and riesling lentil salad 111 delicious. online community.
cobbler 42 Spring green, sweet potato Visit deliciousmagazine.co.uk
Chicken noodle soup 108 and chilli frittata 107

TERMS AND CONDITIONS 1. All information forms part of the terms and conditions. 2. Open to UK residents aged 18 and over, except employees (and their families) of Eye to Eye Media Ltd
or any other associated company. 3. Prizes are as offered. No cash alternatives. Subject to availability. 4. To enter, visit deliciousmagazine.co.uk/promotions and follow the instructions.
No purchase necessary. One entry per household. 5. Emails will not be accepted and entries received after the closing date will not be considered. 6. No responsibility is taken for entries
lost or delayed. 7. Winners will be selected by an independent panel. The judges decision is final; no correspondence will be entered into. 8. Winners agree to take part in publicity.
9. Information given will not be supplied to a third party. 10. Eye to Eye Media Ltd reserves the right to amend these terms and conditions, or to cancel, alter or amend the promotion, if
deemed necessary in its opinion. RIVER COTTAGE COMPETITION 1. The Two Days at River Cottage cookery course is not suitable for those with allergies or dietary requirements. The
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WorldMags.net deliciousmagazine.co.uk 137

 WorldMags.net
GREAT ESCAPES
A magical weekend in Spain
FINCA CORTESIN, ANDALUSIA
U
CLOCKWISE FROM sually Im not a fan of large
ABOVE Relax
under the palms
hotels because their size
by the pool; makes them impersonal.
open-air sofas Finca Cortesin, near Estepona
invite relaxation; on the south coast of Spain, is an
sun, sea and sand
at the Beach exception. And, actually, it doesnt
Club; moreish have a huge number of rooms
food (at Kabuki (67, to be exact) its the grounds,
Raw) and
facilities and the generous amount
Moorish
architecture; of space given to covered terraces
sweet treats and shady corners that make the
from Ronda place seem as if it must play host
to hundreds of guests. Yet it never
feels busy, apart from just the right
amount of buzz at mealtimes,
because this is a destination known
for its food, so people come from far
and wide to eat in the restaurants.
The hotel is akin to a hacienda
138 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
WorldMags.net
clusters of two and three-storey
white buildings nestling in the
shade of gnarled olive trees, looking
out towards the Mediterranean.
FIRST IMPRESSIONS When you arrive,
the hotel is all tinkling fountains
and high-ceilinged white, dappled-
shade rooms and terraces, the
greeny-blue sea shimmering in the
distance. One word comes to mind:
peace. Everywhere you walk there
are flowers, huge terracotta pots
bursting with plants, and cushion-
strewn chairs and sofas begging
you to sink in and enjoy a couple of
hours in the company of a book.
There are so many ways to ease
yourself into relaxation mode: you
can be buffed in the spa, choose
from one of four restaurants dotted
around the grounds (all excellent),
swim in the two tranquil tree-lined
pools or head to the Beach Club
and soak up a few rays there. And
then theres the golf course, for
which Finca Cortesin is famous
Although If you have no interest
in whacking little balls around, its
surprisingly easy to forget the golf
course is there. Top of the billing,
of course, is the food.
FINE EATING First off, breakfast on the
terrace: enjoy the most delicate,
flaky, just-baked pastries and bread,
eggs any which way, freshly pressed
juice from Spanish oranges and
creamy homemade yogurt.
In the evening the sophisticated

WorldMags.net
choice is Michelin-starred Kabuki
Raw, renowned for its sashimi. The
fish is so fresh its almost jumping.
Try the sashimi, soft shell crab sushi
roll and the langoustine tempura.
Theres also a good fine-dining (yet
relaxed) Spanish restaurant called
El Jardn de Lutz, with a terrace
leading to the manicured lawns
a magical setting on a warm night.
In the Italian restaurant, Don
Giovanni, the pizzas are thin, crisp
and made with no-holds-barred
ingredients, from langoustines
to truffle shavings although
I preferred the simpler choices.
And although the food rates highly,
the atmosphere is slightly lacking.
All the wine lists have an
interesting mix of bottles, from
Spain and further afield. In the Blue
Bar you can have exotic teas, cakes,
small tapas plates and cocktails.
For a more intimate atmosphere,
take the courtesy shuttle bus (or
walk) the 1.5km to the Beach Club,
away from the hotel grounds. Its
a piece of paradise small, self-
contained and right on the waters
edge. Theres a caf serving vibrant
salads and light bites all day long.
THE ROOMS Most are in elegant muted
tones but some have bolder colours
in the cushions and throws. The beds
are massive and the bathrooms
smooth-tiled and softly lit. Every
room is a suite; every room has
a balcony or private terrace.
WorldMags.net
hungry traveller.
WHILE YOURE THERE...
You have to see
Ronda (left), about
45 minutes drive
away, up in the
mountains. Its an
outstanding hilltop
town with a rich
past dating back
to the sixth century. The views will stay in your
memory long after youve arrived home. While
youre there, go to La Casa del Dulce in Calle
Tenorio and try the mantecada almond biscuits,
made by nuns. Or, on Calle Arminan, just by the
arched bridge, there are shops selling similar
sweet treats, dredged with icing sugar, as well
as wine and cheese. Other top sights are the
Arab Baths, bullring and Mondragon Palace,
with its beautiful gardens.
Malaga, further afield (two or so hours
drive), is also well worth a day of exploring
especially the old town and the Picasso
Museum (Malaga was the artists home town).
GETTING THERE AND GETTING AROUND
Best bet is to fly to Malaga although
Gibraltar is an option, too. Skyscanner.com is
good for finding deals flights can cost under
120 return out of high season.
Car hire: its cheap if you shop around. Try
RentalCars.com to find the best prices (from
less than 17 per day out of high season).
WHEN TO GO Summer on the Costa del
Sol means full-on heat, although
theres invariably a breeze so the
climate isnt as punishing as inland
Seville, which can reach 50C in
mid July. Autumn and spring are
more temperate, but its rarely cold.
THE COST From 350 B&B per room,
per night, for two people in a junior
suite. But look out for packages on
the website (fincacortesin.com) for
around 640 for two nights B&B,
including car hire, use of the spa
and a free room upgrade. The hotel
also does Hike & Bike packages,
where you can cycle or walk (or a mix
of both) in the nearby mountains,
using the hotel as a base.
KAREN BARNES
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 139
 WorldMags.net
COMIN G N E XT M ON T H I N

ON
SALE
1-30 APRIL

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OWonderful ideas for all that new produce
OFelicity Cloakes fresh seasonal menu

OAfternoon tea and cake with Mary Berry

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COLLECTORS EDITION PART 2:
16 PAGES OF BRILLIANT BREAD
RECIPES TO PULL OUT AND KEEP
And dont miss
OCURRIES FROM AROUND THE WORLD OTHE PEOPLE WHO
USE FOOD TO DO GOOD OA FOOD LOVERS GUIDE TO NICE
WorldMags.net
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No. 27 EYE TO EYE MEDIA LTD, AXE & BOTTLE COURT,
70 NEWCOMEN STREET, LONDON SE1 1YT

Subscription enquiries 01795 414857 delicious@servicehelpline.co.uk

Editorial enquiries 020 7803 4100 Fax 020 7803 4101
Email info@deliciousmagazine.co.uk Web deliciousmagazine.co.uk

THIS MONTH WE ASKED Whats your favourite weird food combo?

Editor Karen Barnes Dijon mustard & grated cheddar stirred into pasta
Deputy editor Susan Low Sriracha sauce on spaghetti
Editorial assistant Daisy Meager Marmite and peanut butter on toast
Food editor Rebecca Woollard Peanut butter on toast under baked beans
Deputy food editor Lottie Covell Granulated sugar on buttered toast
Cookery assistant Ella Tarn Celery and peanut butter
Art director Jocelyn Bowerman Cream cheese and jam on toast
Art editor Martine Tinney Pie, mash and liquor
Managing editor Les Dunn Peas on toast
Deputy chief sub editor Hugh Thompson Celery and Marmite
Senior sub editor Rebecca Almond Poached eggs with balsamic glaze
Food consultants Matthew Drennan, Debbie Major
Wine editor Susy Atkins Gadget tester Aggie MacKenzie
Contributors James Ramsden, Lucas Hollweg
Web producer Rebecca Brett 020 7803 4130 Chinese noodles and mayo
Promotions and marketing executive
Hannah Sherwood 020 7803 4129 Salty chips dipped in milkshake
Digital and social media assistant
See how much you really know about the Kathleen Silverfield Toasted crumpets and houmous

world of food with Hugh Thompsons With thanks to: Victoria Bushnell, Ellie Davies, Megan Davies, Emelia Jackson
culinary conundrum. Answers next month
Advertising director Jason Elson 020 7150 5397
Head of print & partnerships Nicola Shubrook 020 7150 5037
ACROSS Group head, digital partnerships Roxane Rix 020 7150 5039
Senior sales, partnerships Emma Newman 020 7150 5038
1 Pungent sandwich spread, once popular, now less so (4,5) Project manager, partnerships Emily Griffin 020 7150 5036
6 Gastropod mollusc not eaten much this side of the channel (5) Group head, brand team Catherine Nicolson 020 7150 5044
7 The kind of pick-me-up that goes perfectly with gin (5) Senior sales executive, brand team Abigail Snelling 020 7150 5030
Group head, digital Anna Priest 020 7150 5191
9 High protein cultured dairy product from Iceland (4)
Senior sales executive, digital Carly Ancell 020 7150 5404
10 Area of western Scotland known for whisky and oysters (6) Sales planner, digital Sophia Chan 020 7150 5697
12 Spongy teff flatbread a national dish of Ethiopia (6) Sales executive, classified Tim Bennett 020 7150 5653
14 Starch made from palm trees, can be used to make a pudding (4)
Regional business development manager, digital and partnerships
17 Japanese name for orange salmon eggs used in sushi (5) David Hill 0161 209 3632
18 Jewish potato pancake (5) Regional business development manager
19 Room for communal meals, especially in a monastery (9) Nicola Rearden 0161 209 3629

DOWN Managing director Seamus Geoghegan

2 Ossau _____ : sheeps cheese from the Pyrenees (5)
3 To remove the calyx of berries (4)
4 Informal name for the sweet course (6)
5 Herb with yellow flowers once used to flavour puddings (5)
6 Sliced raw seafood served in Japan (7)
8 Semi-circular filled bread, resembles a pizza folded in half (7)
11 To coat a tin or dish with fat to prevent food sticking to it (6)
13 Vin _____ : golden yellow, oxidised wine from Jura (5)
15 Essential oil distilled from petals and blossom (5)
Reproduction in whole or part prohibited without permission. The publishers cannot accept responsibility
16 An overabundance, especially of seasonal fruit or veg (4)
data user whose entries in the Data Protection Register contain descriptions of sources and disclosures
Solution to no. 26 ACROSS: 1. Empanadas 6. Curds 7. Broth 9. Malt 10. Grner
12. Oxtail 14. Pass 17. Ergot 18. Aroma 19. Arrowroot DOWN: 2. Morel 3. Aush
4. Albert 5. Acorn 6. Compote 8. Harissa 11. Bistro 13. Tiger 15. Adobo 16. Parr
020 7803 4123 seamus.geoghegan@eyetoeyemedia.co.uk
Publishing director Adrienne Moyce
020 7803 4111 adrienne.moyce@eyetoeyemedia.co.uk
Consultant editorial director Jo Sandilands
Circulation director Owen Arnot 020 7803 4121
Production director Jake Hopkins 020 7803 4110
Finance director Gary Pickett gary.pickett@eyetoeyemedia.co.uk
Finance manager Adam Wright 01733 373135
adam.wright@eyetoeyemedia.co.uk
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144 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
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 WorldMags.net
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a good rant.
WorldMags.net
Down with
flavoured
water!
Add a splash of fruit avouring and a drop of antioxidant
and suddenly what looks like a plain old bottle of water
becomes a must-have superfood with a supercharged
price tag. What a wheeze, says this food writer
By SUE QUINN
Why are some of us crazy
enough to pay a kings
ransom for liquid that, in
the UK at least, comes free
and clean straight from the tap? Drinks
producers are having a laugh and
were lapping up the punch line. Just
wander down the drinks aisle of your
supermarket or health food shop and
youll see what I mean.
Now that coconut water is so last
year, health hipsters wanting a taste
of the latest trend are spoilt for
choice. As well as birch water,
maple water and cactus water made
from plant saps, there are a host of
bizarre new enhanced waters
flooding the shelves.
All kinds of stuff is being squeezed
into H2O, including a cornucopia of fruit
and vegetable flavourings and fortifying
vitamins and minerals. You can buy
vapour-distilled spring water with added
electrolytes, alkaline waters (alkaline trace
mineral-infused water) and, my favourite,
Antiwater (made with nano-filtered H2O,
The market for this
stuff is projected
to be worth almost
26 billion by 2019
146 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
coffee fruit extract and selenium the
antioxidant that gives it its name). So far
the latter is only available in the US or
online, but it will no doubt be whooshing
down the waterslide to the UK soon. After
all, the manufacturers predict the future is
clear you couldnt make it up.
Its this halo effect that drinks producers
are trying to conjure that really makes me
fume. Predictably, the majority of
WorldMags.net
functional (no, I dont know what that
means either) waters are being marketed
as though theyre life-giving liquids fresh
from the spring at Lourdes. The labels
display promises of health benefits that
range from curing your hangover to
improving your immune system and
detoxifying your liver. I dont know how
many bottles of artichoke water youd need
to guzzle to get the same health benefit as
eating a plateful of the real McCoy, but Id
wager it would be quite a few. And at
about 2 (its not available in the UK yet)
and 8g sugar a bottle, its clear your
wallet will be slimmer, if nothing else.
Then theres the cocktail of additives
many of the waters are bottled up with.
Drinks with images of juicy berries on
the label seem harmless enough because,
well, the liquid is pure, right? Well,
not exactly The truth is, many such
waters are pumped full of sugar, artificial
sweeteners and flavourings the other
vitamins and antioxidants theyre
fortified with seem, at least to me,
to be added as an afterthought simply
to justify the health claims that make
sales of the stuff soar.
Flavoured water is projected to be
worth almost 26 billion worldwide by
2019 a sad statistic, but we all know
why drinks producers are churning this
stuff out. Fizzy drinks are fast losing
their sparkle as consumers become
more sugar-savvy and look for healthier
options to quench their thirst.
Time to take stock: a nutritionist
I interviewed once for an article about
flavoured water pointed out that Coca-
Cola was just that flavoured water,
originally touted as a medicinal drink
that would cure a multitude of illnesses.
Something to bear that in mind next time
you reach for a bottle of infused clear stuff
with lots of health claims on the label.
Or better still, why dont we save our fruit
and veg for eating (and our money for
something worthwhile) and enjoy water
in its gloriously natural, good-for-you,
accessible form straight from the tap?
Do you think Sue has a valid point,
ILLUSTRATION: ISTOCK
or do you take a diferent view?
Email us at info@delicious
magazine.co.uk and well print
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