University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign

College of Medicine
Community Medical School

Skin Cosmeceuticals
and Rejuvenation

Dr. Ellen Jacobsen, M.D.

College of Medicine, Internal Medicine
Jacobsen Dermatology Center

What is a cosmeceutical?
A term coined from

COSMETIC - a product meant to beautify

or improve appearance, AND

DRUG a product meant to mitigate or

prevent disease

A DRUG IS FDA REGULATED

IT CAN BE MARKETED AS
ANTI-AGING
A cosmeceutical is not regulated and even
if it contains the same active ingredient as
a drug RE: RETINOL, it may only say in
the marketing that it may
improve the appearance of wrinkles

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 SO WHAT HAPPENS TO THE
SKIN IN AGING?
Nothing good
We make less collagen so more wrinkles
Our DNA is damaged so we cant control cell
turnover
Elastic tissue is destroyed
Mitochondrial damage, protein oxidation,
substandard telomere-based DNA damage
responses, bad-boy thymine dimers ruining
repair mechanisms, etc. etc.

CULPRIT NUMBER ONE

SUN!!! ULTRAVIOLET A AND B
damage from all the innocent exposure of
the skin through the life cycle

CHECK OUT THE DIFFERENCE IT

MAKES IN 80 YEARS

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 SO WHAT HAVE WE SEEN?
SUN EXPOSURE CAUSES:
Brown Spots, Red Spots
White Spots, Dry Skin
Crusty Spots
WRINKLES
Precancers and Skin Cancers
Sagging
Big Pores etc.
Loss of volume (deflated beach ball idea)

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 DEFENCE NUMBER ONE
Be sun smart
Stay in the shade or use an umbrella
Stay inside from 10-3
Wear sun glasses or sun protective
clothing
Wear Sun Block of SPF 30 or more
Take Vitamin D 1000 IU if you dont get
enough in your diet

Sunblock

These are some great products that we

recommend for good sun protection.

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 These are example of different types of sunblock.
They come in many different forms. So, you have
a choice about what type you like on your skin.

Sunforgettable SPF 30
-Loose Powder Form
-Is very water resistant
-Great for kids, mens scalp
and ears.
-Comes in 3 shades to
match skin tone
-Is very easy to reapply

Multi Protection Cream

-Light weight moisturizer
- Provides UVA?UVB
-Decreases the appearance
of fine lines and wrinkles
- Has a complex of five anti-
oxidants needed to boost
the skins own natural
defense system
- Great for every day use
and under make-up

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Minu-Sol Elta MD
- A very light sun block - Light
- Goes on like silk - Non-greasy moisturizer
- Dries clear and weightless - SPF 40
- Doesnt look or feel greasy - Great used alone or under
- Great for both men and women make-up
- Good for every day use.

Neostrata Lip Conditioner SPF 15

A moisturizing lip balm with glycolic acid and a sun block

LipTect SPF
A very soothing sunscreen for lips with the highest rated
protection.

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 Cleansers

Toleriane Facial Cleanser

A lovely cleanser for those with dry, sensitive skin.
Makes nice suds and leaves your skin feeling clean,
not dried out. Good for people who have rosacea and
atopic eczema.

Alpha Cleanser
A great all purpose cleanser with an orange scent and a
softening super cleansing salicylic acid. Good for acne in all
age groups.

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 Antioxidants for
Rejuvenation

OXIDATIVE STRESS
This is the problem that sun and tanning
beds cause
It is the problem already discussed with
thymine dimers that lead to abnormal cell
turn-over
There are thymine dimer mutations found
in sun-damaged skin and certainly in skin-
cancer tumors

OXIDATIVE STRESS LEADS TO:

INFLAMMATION and the formation of

FREE RADICALS (from the 1960s)

UV light induces all the bad skin effects

and ruins cells at the level of lipids,
proteins and DNA

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 SO WHAT HAVE WE SEEN?
SUN EXPOSURE CAUSES:
Brown Spots, Red Spots
White Spots, Dry Skin
Crusty Spots
WRINKLES
Precancers and Skin Cancers
Sagging
Big Pores etc.
Loss of volume (deflated beach ball idea)

Retinol
Proven to decrease fine lines and improve texture. A fine
economical product. Easy to tolerate if you start with 15 and
gradually increase to 30, and then to 60.

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 10% Ultra Smoothing Lotion
This light lotion with the deep moisturizing benefits of a glycolic
acid that helps with the appearance of fine lines, skin tone and
texture. The 2% citric acid is an added benefit to help reduce
brown spots.

15% Lotion Plus

The strongest lotion available for fine lines and pigment. A
great moisturizer for use on dry arms, legs and torso and to
use on face and neck for those who tolerate it. May sting
when applied. Active ingredient is glycolic acid.

Active C
An elegant facial cream with antioxidant and
sun protection benefits. Helps in the AM or
PM with twice daily use to decrease fine lines
and pigment. Great with make-up.

CE Ferulic
A top of the line
mixture of
antioxidant
ingredients that
provides 8 times
the skins natural
photo-aging
protection. Serum
goes on smooth,
and a little goes a
long way.

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Phyto Plus
A top of the line antioxidant that is great for decreasing
pigmentation. Works well in conjunction with the PPX and facial
rejuvenation treatments. Helps to smooth red, irritated skin
following cosmetic procedures.

Nia24
Proven to help heal badly sun damaged skin. Improves
all over tone and texture. Builds stronger, more resilient
skin that is more resistant to further damage.

There are several hundred

products available and it is very
difficult to tell what works at all
and what works best for any
individual.
More money spent does not
necessarily correlate with more
effectiveness.

SUNBLOCK FIRST AND THEN

Antioxidants to help stop damage as much
as possible- they all help but none are
magic
COMBO TREATMENT botanical, vitamin,
enzymatic - switch with seasons as the
research is limited on efficacy
Moisture, gentle cleansing

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 THE BIG (and expensive) GUNS
BOTOX
FILLERS like Juvederm, Radiesse,
Restylane, Perlane, Sculptra
Lasers and Intense Pulsed Light or IPL
treatments
Liposuction/ plastic surgery
Peels and Microdermabrasion

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 FILLERS
These products help to fill in the volume
that we lose as we age
They are used in the marionette lines but
can also be used in the cheeks, lips, under
the eyes, along the jaw.
They last for about a year

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 The Tools of the Little-to-No
Downtime Rejuvenation Trade
Sunblock, hats, umbrellas
Topical creams to improve color, texture, some
wrinkles
Botox for wrinkles (upper face mostly)
Fillers to give volume (may bruise briefly)
Lasers and IPLs to improve texture, color, some
wrinkles (Fraxel, Thermage, Needling, etc)
Glycolic and other peels and microdermabrasion
to improve color and texture slightly

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 Antioxidants for
Rejuvenation

Thanks for your attention

Please hand your questions in

during the break.

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