Astra All PDF

How To..
Fit
Fitting
ting 6x9
x9 Speakers to the Rear Quarters (3dr)
Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra-Sport take NO responsibility for
any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do
something leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this
modification is done.
Inroduction/Summary:
This How To will explain how to fit 6 x 9 speakers into the rear quarters of a 3 door Astra G/MK4 in
place of the standard 17cm speakers. I would estimate the entire job taking about 3 hours.
The reasons for me choosing to fit these speakers in this way are:
I had the speakers already, and didnt want to purchase new ones.
I wanted a permanent solution to the upgrade of rear speakers.
I regularly use all of my boot space so I cannot afford the space for a subwoofer. Therefore I
needed more mid bass from my rear speakers than components could offer. Also, did not want
the hassle of removing an MDF rear parcel shelf every time I loaded up the car.
There are two things that you need to know before reading any further:
1. For those interested in a temporary solution (i.e. no permanent alterations to your vehicle)
please fit youre 6 x 9s to a stealth shelf or similar.
2. You WILL need to cut part of the car away to fit these speakers, so unless you are confident
enough to do this, please do not continue.
Now thats all cleared up on with the how-to!
Parts and Tools Needed:
Pair of 6 x 9 speakers
Cutting template suitable for your speakers (usually come with your speakers, but I will
instruct upon how to make your own)
Angle grinder / dremel (or similar) cutting tool
Cross headed screwdriver
Torx head screwdrivers
Self tapping screws
Drill and metal drill bit just smaller than your self tapping screws
Large dust sheet to cover interior with
Speaker adaptor leads (Autoleads part number: PC2-805 3.99)
Firstly, remove the rear seats and quarter panels as described in the How To on AstraSport:
Thanks to DanSport16v for the How To

Making a template
template:
te:
If you have cutting templates with your speakers please go straight to Step1 (below). If you dont
try the manufacturers website or your local car audio shop. If you need to make your own this is how
I made mine:
1. Firstly, place your speaker face down on cloth. Then identify the area that will need to be
removed to fit it. It is difficult to explain see photo (below).
2. Next, take a sheet of A4 paper and hold it over the bottom of the speaker magnet. Using your
finger, rub around the edge of the magnet to make a circle (or the shape of your magnet). Cut
out this shape. Move the paper down over the magnet, so that the magnet is coming through
the paper towards you.
3. Move the paper down little by little, trimming it as necessary until your speaker fits into it as if
you were going to mount it on the paper. You should be left with a piece of paper that has an
ellipse cut into it.
4. Place this over another A4 sheet, and trace the shape onto the second sheet.
5. Cut out the shape and voila - you have the template for your speakers.
If possible, you can use the grill that fits over your speaker, and rub the paper into the shape on the
speaker side of the grill, then cut around the shape. You can only do this if you can see that the grill
has the same shape as the rear mounting of the speaker.

Step One:
After removing the rear seats and door

cards you should have something looking
like this:
Remove the existing speaker by undoing

the four torx screws. Unplug the wiring
loom from the rear of the speaker, by
depressing the small catch on the side of
the plug.
Using a tape measure, ensure that the

depth of your new 6x9 is not greater then
the distance between the rear quarter
inner chassis and outer skin. There is a lot
of room, so I would expect no problems.
Trim the sound proofing from around the existing speaker cutout to make room for you to cut for
and fit the new speaker. Line up your template with the forward (facing front of the car) edge of the
17cm hole, and secure it with blu-tack as shown below. I placed it in this way this because I could feel
there was something on the inside of the forward side of the existing speaker cutout that I did not
want to cut through.
Step Two:
Trace around the template with a black pen.

Then remove the template. Now you will
need to cut around the pen mark. You can
use a dremel cutting tool, but it is important
to remember that real men use an angle
grinder!
WARNINGS:
Cover up the surrounding area with
the cloth to avoid spark damage.
Make sure all seat belts; wires and
any other possible obstructions are
safely tucked away.
Dampen the soundproofing to avoid
it burning.
Keep a steady hand and check your
progress frequently.
Take regular breaks tiredness means lack of concentration and you are cutting less then 15cm
from the outside skin of the car!

After cutting you should have something
looking a little like this photo right:
Step Three:
You may need an extra pair of hands to hold

the speaker for this and the next step.
Offer up the speaker to the hole. I needed to

make a few alterations to my hole (ooh-err!)
to get the speaker to sit in flush. Make sure
to inspect around the entire edge of the
speaker to make sure the speaker is sitting
flat against the rear quarter. When you are
happy, keep the speaker in place and mark
the holes for the screws using a black pen,
and then put the speaker to one side.
Step Four:
Drill the holes for the speaker screws. Using a manual screwdriver, carefully thread the holes with the
screws (do this by screwing the self-tapping screw in, and then out again). This will help when fitting
the screwing the speaker in, especially if you have to hold the speaker with your free hand.
Step Five:
Plug your Autoleads adaptor onto the existing wiring in the car, and then slip on the other ends to
your new 6x9 speaker. You can cut the wires and crimp on connectors instead, but I feel that for not
much more money it is worthwhile using the adaptors.

Step 6:
Fit the speaker onto the rear quarter using the

screws and holes you drilled earlier.
Switch on the head unit and check that the

speaker works. When you are happy, re-fit the
door card, and make sure that it fits over the top
of your new 6x9. I had no problem, even with the
grill on the speaker.
Smile , make a cup of tea, and then repeat all

above steps to fit the speaker to the other side.
When finished, refit the rear seats and enjoy the

new higher quality sounds.

How To.. Replace the Aerial Base (MK4)
Tools needed.
No.20 Torx screwdriver

17mm Open ended spanner
Washing-up liquid
A small flat bladed screwdriver
There are many different bases fitted to

Astra G's. - To get the correct one, you'll
have to quote your VIN number at your
Vauxhall dealers parts department.
This How to was done on a 3-door

hatchback - The panels will be different
on a 5-door, but it will be the same
principle.
If your aerial base looks like this -->,

--
its in need of changing before water
leaks onto your headlining.
Basically all that needs doing is to drop

the rear of the headlining and remove
the old base and refit a new one.
Thanks to Keif for the How To

Drop the headlining.
Step 1
You need to remove all the trim at each side of
the headlining up to the drivers door shut, after
first removing your parcel shelf.
Undo the three Torx screws (marked ) in the

panel in the boot.
You don't need to remove the panel, just pull it

off the clips so it hangs clear.
Step 2
You'll then need to remove the rear grab
handle. Using a flat bladed screwdriver remove
both retaining clips these just slide out.
Then the handle will come out leaving the

base/light fitting in place.
Step 3
Carefully pull the light out and let it hang on
the wires.

Step 4
To be on the safe side I unclipped the B-pillar
cover. This just pulls off the clips.
Step 5
The main trim should now be free to unclip and
remove.
Remember this needs doing for BOTH side of

the car.
When all the trim is out, you can carefully get

behind the rubber boot seal and get to the
edge of the headlining.
It's held up with 3 Velcro pads. Pull it down

carefully (you don't want to crease it), you
should see the base of the aerial.

Removing the Aerial Base
Step 1
It's not that clear from the previous photo, but there are three connections to be undone - Radio
antenna lead, amplifier lead and water pipe.
Remove the foam insulation from around the Radio antenna, then unscrew and pull the connector
apart.
Then unclip the washer connection.
Step 2
The water pipe does just pull out, but it's a long male pipe so can be a bit fiddly. Water pressure stops
the water leaking once the pipes removed.
Step 3
Using a 17mm open ended spanner (a socket can't get in) undo the retaining nut. Only takes a small
turn to get it started and then it's possible to undo it with your fingers
Step 4
Once the nut is removed then you'll be able to carefully lift the old base from the car.
Preparing the New

New Base
Step 1
You'll need to remove the washer jet from the
old base and fir it into the new. To remove it from
the old unit a small screwdriver and a push from
the bottom of the jet will loosen it. It's a tight fit!
Step 2
Then just push the jet into the new unit, making
sure the groove is lined up with the tenon on the
jet. Washing up liquid may be needed to help it
slip in.
Your new base is now ready to be fitted.

Fitting is basically the reverse of the above, you
shouldn't have to tighten the aerial nut up much
as it just needs to grab the underside of the roof.
Plus you wont need to adjust the jet.
Fitting the water pipe back is a pain and a good

dollop of washing up liquid will be needed.
I wrapped insulation tape around the aerial

connection once Id screwed it back up as I
destroyed the foam on removal.
The only thing to watch re-fitting the interior

panels is lining the seatbelt adjuster up; if you
misaligned the clip on the rear of the panel you'll
break it and have to replace the whole panel.

How To.. Fit a K
K--MAC Rear Anti
Anti--Roll Bar (MK4)
The Mk4 Astra is not fitted with a rear Anti-

Anti-Roll Bar (ARB) as standard, so fitting one will
handling.
tighten up the back end and greatly improve han dling.
Step 1
First of all you will need to get the car up on a 4 poster ramp as the anti roll bar needs to be fitted
with the car level, as if it was on the road.
Once up in the air you need to fit the first bracket that goes on the pivot point of the rear suspension.
Undo the nut (circled red) so you can fit the bracket - dont remove the bolt! Once the bracket is
fitted, refit and tighten the nut to following torque
Stage 1 190nm or 66lbf ft

Stage 2 angle tighten 60
Stage 3 angle tighten 15
Before After
Repeat for the other side
Thanks to lee gsi for the How To

Step 2
Fit the T-shaped nut (indicated in photo) to the hole in the bottom of
the swinging arm. When you look at the nut, you need to insert it into
the hole and turn it 90 degrees so the stepped bit is sitting down in
through the hole.
Before T-shaped nut fitted After (ready to accept bracket)
Step 3
Place the 2 bolts in the bracket with the head of

the bolt on the top of the bracket, so the thread
of the bolt is facing down.
Now bolt the bracket up to the T-shaped nut

thats in the hole of the bottom arm so that the
bracket and 2 bolts are parallel with the bumper
(As the roll bar will go through the middle of the
bracket).
Do the other side!

Step 4
Now you need to bolt on the anti roll bar

to the trailing arm brackets.
Place the bolts with the square ends

through the bracket so the thread is facing
down.
Then place the rubber bush around the roll

bar and then put the second part of the
bracket over the bush. Its best to put some
copper grease on the bush before fitting
the bar/bracket.
When fitting the U-clamps, just do up the

nuts hand tight, so it still allows for some
final adjustment of the bar in the brackets.
Step 5
Next bolt the anti roll bar to the other

brackets on the trailing arm.
The roll bar is under a bit of tension so you

might have to push and hold the roll bar
up against the bracket to enable you to fit
the U-clamp. Again, you need to place the
rubber bush over the roll bar and put the
clamp over the top of the bush. Use
copper grease again.
The bracket that you had already fitted to

the car will have the bolts facing down so
you can push the U-clamp over the threads
and do the nuts up.
Again, dont do them up tight so you have

a bit (You dont get much) of movement so
you can align it easier on the other side.

Step 6
Once youre 100% happy that everything is lined up and sitting centrally, go round the brackets and
do up all the nuts on brackets so its all nice and tight.
Thats it.
it You now have a K-MAC rear anti roll bar fitted to your car which looks like this:

How To.. Dismantle & Reassemble the Ashtray ( Mk4)
Astra Owners Club Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra Owners Club take NO
responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how
to do anything, leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this
Tools required:
Small Thin Screwdriver
Medium size flat bladed screwdriver
Step 1
Remove the ashtray from the centre console. If you
can't do that please stop reading now and pay
someone to do the next steps.
The ashtray comes apart really easily as long as you

follow the steps in order, do not get frustrated and
force anything or it will break.
Locate the gear which controls the speed of the

ashtray as it flicks open.
To remove the gear insert a small screwdriver in

the hole near the catch and lever upwards, it comes
out quite easily.
If your ashtray is sticking whilst opening remove this gear and see how it performs without it. It will fly open
very rapidly, but you can listen for any scraping etc as it opens, which indicates the problem lies elsewhere
it the ashtray.
Step 2
You now need to remove the catch which holds the
ashtray shut.
There is a central clip on it, I've inserted the thin

screwdriver to highlight where it is, hold this up
whilst allowing the ashtray to open, when fully open
you can push the catch further upwards and then
remove it.
Thanks to Oddjob for the How To

Step 3
Now you can remove the tray itself
without bits flying off all over the car.
Insert the medium screwdriver

between the surround and the tray
as in photo. You must keep the top of
the tray closed, and you need to get
the bottom to detach whilst the top
stays in place, it's really easy
Start on the cigar lighter side and

separate the tray and surround from
this side - there is a pivot point inside
which you need to loosen off.
When you've got that side loose do

the same with the other but as it
comes loose cover the spring with your finger - don't forget to keep the top in place, swing the bottom part
out. The spring isn't that strong and won't hurt you.
Step 4.
Now you should have the ashtray
loose at the bottom but still
connected at the top, like this.
To remove this, all you need to do is

pull out one side and detach the peg
which is located in the inner ashtray
runner: again this is very easy.
Once one side is loose the other will

come off without any bother.

Step 5
If you want you can remove the light
shutter from the inner part of the
outer frame.
All this does is block light from the

cigar lighter bulb until the ashtray
opens when it allows light to flow
down the ashtray light bar.
I've highlighted this because

sometimes it just falls out and at
least you'll know where it goes back.
Step 6
To remove the inner ashtray from
flap insert a screwdriver like in the
photo - keep pressure on the flap
whilst sliding the inner ashtray
outwards.
You need to get the tray to slide over

the 2 clamps highlighted. It will then
just slide off.
A lot of troubles with ashtrays

sticking can be traced to these 2
pieces - they must slide together very
freely.
Lubricate the sliding surfaces with

Vaseline or similar and check
operation when the 2 pieces are
reassembled.

Step 7
By now the ashtray should be almost fully dismantled. You can remove the inner tray from the inner
ashtray if you want to clean it. It also helps if it's removed whilst assembling as the view is clearer and it
can be reinserted when the ashtray is fully assembled.
Parts
1. Catch 8
2. Speed gear 6
7
3. Light shutter
4. Spring
5. Inner tray
6. Flap
7. Inner Ashtray
8. Frame 1 2 3 4
Step 8
Now's the time to lubricate all the moving parts: the easier they move the better the ashtray will operate.
To reassemble
1. First assemble the Inner Ashtray to the flap, it just slides in place.
2. Reattach the light shutter if removed.
3. Keep the inner ashtray in the fully up position and locate onto one of the pegs on the frame, pull the
frame outward slightly to locate the second peg.

4. The inner ashtray and flap are now swinging on the pegs. Keep the top edge firmly against top of
the frame so the bottom sticks out.
5. Put the spring into place as shown

in the photo.
Swing the inner ashtray

downwards whilst still keeping the
top edge against the frame, and
take the hooked end of the spring
and swing it into the frame whilst
you swing the inner ashtray down.
Ideally get the hooked end of the

spring to protrude through the
square hole in the back of the
frame,
Spread the frame slightly in order

to get the pivot points located, one
at a time - best to do the spring
end first but doesn't really matter.
6. Mount the catch, keeping slight pressure on it so it tries to follow the guide slot. Open and shut the
ashtray and the catch should just self locate.
7. Press the speed gear back into place. If your ashtray is still very slow in opening and you don't think
anything is catching you can dismantle the speed gear by pressing a really thin screwdriver
between the housing and the gear plate
Inside it will be full of heavy oil, try thinning it out with a little WD40 and see how easy the gear
moves after. Be aware though that if you remove the oil completely and substitute even heavy oil
like gearbox oil the tray will still flick open very fast. As yet I haven't found anything like VX used.
Once you've taken the ashtray apart a few times, you'll wonder how it caused so many problems in the
past. Don't force anything and have patience.

How To.. Remove the Instrument Binnacle (MK4)
Tools needed
T20 Torx bit,
Small flat blade Screwdriver or penknife
Step 1
If fitted, extend and lower the adjustable steering
column to give yourself more room to work
Then using a small flatblade screwdriver or penknife

carefully prise out the two D shaped covers to
either side of the steering column shroud, and
remove the 2 T20 Torx screws underneath
Step 2
Remove the other 2 T20 Torx screws in the roof of
the binnacle shroud
Thanks to adamduk for the How To

Step 3
Then remove the shroud (you will have to squeeze it
downwards a bit).
Make sure you lift the bottom part up over the

column first.
Step 4
Remove the 2 T20 Torx Screws in the bottom
corner on each side of the instrument binnacle...
Step 5
Unlatch the binnacle by moving the yellow lever, at
the top, to the left. You need to lift it slightly before
you move it across

Step 6
Lift the binnacle off the mounting, and manoeuvre it
out of the dash. It will only come out one way so you
need to
Twist it backwards, so its almost flat

Move the RHS into the dash
Pull the LHS towards you
Rotate and remove the binnacle through the gap
in the steering wheel.
Now you can get at the bulbs in the back, if you

need to replace blown ones, or fit LEDS
Only twist them to turn - remove turning

anticlockwise, and replace turning clockwise
Refit the instruments, lock with the yellow lever, and

check all the bulbs light up.
Once youre happy that all is OK, refitting is the reverse of removal

How To.. Fit B
Bonnet
onnet Lifters
Step 1
Check all the parts are included in the package, and then screw the sockets to the end of the struts.
Step 2
Note:
Note one lifter is not strong enough to support the
bonnet on its own, so you must keep the original
stay in place until both sides are completed
Undo the top (front) bolt on the bonnet hinge
and fit the top mounting to the bonnet on the MK3, the
mount simply replaces the original bolt (below), whereas on
the MK4 youll need to use the supplied bracket (as shown
right), and then replace the bolt.
Thanks to Nrj and Ffoeg for the How To

Step 3
MK3s - remove the wing bolt, immediately before
the hole in the wing (working back from the
headlights).
MK4s - there is no need to remove any bolt from

the wing as the lower mounting uses the existing
hole.
Step 4
Fit the lower mount to the wing
MK3s Simply screw the new mounting into the

wing bolt hole, remembering to use the supplied
washer to spread the load (photo right)
MK4s - Fix the mounting to the hole in the front wing and
tighten up the nut from underneath. As the hole is quite
large it is wise to add some support to the mounting with
some cut-down repair washers, top and bottom as shown
left. These can be painted to hide them.

Step 5
Push the struts onto the mountings, with the
thicker part towards the top this way they will
self lubricate and help to stop the seals from
drying out.
Its also a god idea to put a small amount of

grease in the socket before fitting.
Step 6
Fit the retaining clips to each joint they slide in through the
small hole in the socket and then clip into the groove.
Once both sides are done, carefully lower the bonnet and
check the clearance to ensure that they are not catching
anywhere.

How To.. Modify the Bonnet Pull on the Astra Mk4.
(for Aftermarket Grills)
Why do this Mod?

Fitting an aftermarket grill will sometimes leave the bonnet tab sticking proud of the grill when
closed. This easy mod will move the tab backwards just enough so that it becomes unnoticeable
when shut, yet still enables the bonnet to be opened easily.
Step 1
Open the bonnet and remove the pull tab,
by gently easing off the spring washer with
a small screwdriver.
Carefully cut off the plastic spring so the

tab resembles that shown in the photo.
If fitting an Irmscher Grill, it helps the

alignment of the tab if the left hand side
wing is removed to prevent fouling of the
slats on the grill, again as shown in the
photo
Step 2
Now you can see the hole that the tab was
removed from on the bracket (on the right).
Drill a new hole, the same size (approx 4mm

diameter), in line with original hole approx
10-12mm towards the rear of the catch
shown on the left in the photo.
On the other side of the bracket there are 2

plastic dimples that need to be made flush
by cutting them off with a sharp Stanley
knife or rubbed down with sandpaper
Now you can reassemble the tab to the

bracket using the new hole.
Job Done!!
Thanks to Oddjob & lee gsi for the How To

The bonnet will now look similar to this when closed.
And this when released.
Thanks to Oddjob & lee gsi for the How To

How To.. Fit a Boo
Boosst Gauge
Step 1
Loosen the highlighted jubilee clips
(7mm spanner or socket) and remove
the inlet pipe to the left of the engine
bay.
There should be enough slack in the

wires, so there is no need to
disconnect the AFM
Step 2
You will see my setup and the arrow
indicates the boost pressure pipe to
the gauge.
I fed mine from inside the car, through

the spare grommet, which is situated
just above the accelerator pedal this
is accessible from under the dash, by
removing the cover panel above the
footwell (undo the 2 turn clips).
Thanks to Lord Nikon for the How To

Step 3
This shows the T piece layout.
Note the pressure crimps on the

weaker points of the
installation.
The pipe to the gauge is 4mm

internal bore. Note the black
pipe running down behind the
engine. This is the one that
started off connected to the
small right angle tube.
Thanks to Lord Nikon for the How To

How To.. To change the F17/F18 gearbox oil on the Astra Mk4
Tools required:
11mm socket and ratchet, 13mm ring spanner, 19mm open ended spanner.
Torque wrench.
Loctite thread lock or similar.
Container to catch oil.
Stanley knife or similar (optional)
New sump plate gasket, No.90345227 on F17, No.90523143 on F18
Hylomar gasket paste or similar (optional)
Gearbox oil 1.6L in F17
All photos show F17 gearbox, F18 is very similar so shouldn't cause a problem following this How-To.
Step 1
To get the best results it's preferable to have the gearbox oil warm, take the car for a short run, 5-6
miles to get it nice and warm. I used ramps but axle stands can be used if preferred. Ramp up car or
place on axle stands, allow at least 10mins for the exhaust to cool down as it will be red hot and
could give you a very nasty burn.
Step 2
This is the sump plate you
need to remove to drain
the gearbox oil.
The F17 has 10 bolts

holding it on, the F18 has
11 so it's easy to check
which you have. The F17 is
used on the 1.8 engines,
both X18XE1 and Z18XE.
The F18 was used on early
2.0 Astras.
It's most important that

you check the gasket you
have is correct BEFORE
you remove the sump
plate, hold it against the
plate to check it's correct.
To
Thanks to Oddjob for the How T o
Step 3
Using the 11mm socket and ratchet, undo the bolts holding the sump plate: work in a cross wise
fashion to relieve the pressure evenly. Have a suitable container under the gearbox to catch the old
oil. The bolts have been fitted using thread lock, they will be hard to undo initially. However, if when
you are undoing them, they tighten up do not force them - you will strip the thread out of the
gearbox if you aren't careful.
Best method is to retighten the bolt as this tends to cut the thread lock off the threads, the bolt
should then come out easier, repeat the process if need be until the bolt feels looser.
Step 4
Leave at least one of the bolts in place but loose. Tap the sump plate with a rubber hammer or piece
of wood, when it starts to give off a hollow sound the plate is due to come off. Allow all the oil to
drain and remove the sump plate, check inside the bottom of the sump plate for any undue residue,
small pieces of metal etc.
There should be very little on the plate if the box is in decent nick. Anything other than this and
consider having the box checked. Clean the sump plate until it looks like this
Step 5
You can see in the photos (below) that small pieces of the old gasket remain, it's vital you remove
them from both the plate and the box; I use a sharp Stanley knife edge on for this.
Check the differential gear for any missing teeth etc if you want.
To
Step 6
After cleaning the sump plate
and box surfaces apply some
non setting gasket paste like
Hylomar, this is optional but I
prefer this method in case any
of the surfaces are not totally
flat. Fit the gasket and refit the
plate back onto the box, putting
thread lock on the bolts.
Tighten the bolts in a cross wise

method and tighten up to the
required torque, see below.
Looks like this, nice and clean
Step 7
Lower the car. Park the car on level ground. Remove the reverse light switch, shown in photo
(below), and also the gearbox oil level plug, also pictured but on my spare box for clarity. Reverse
light switch is 19mm and level plug is 13mm but you need a proper ring spanner due to its location.
Make sure you clean the area around the reverse light switch before removing it, I used some carb
cleaner which did the job a treat.
Reverse Light Switch Oil Level Plug
To
Step 8
Fill the gearbox through the reverse light switch - the F17 takes approx 1.6L. When the oil starts to
drip through the level plug stop filling and wait for it to stop dripping. Refit and connect the reverse
light switch and refit and tighten the level plug.
Take the car for a drive and check for leaks, and then wait a couple of days and recheck the level
again by removing the level plug.
Torque Wrench settings

Never over tighten bolts in alloy components you may strip the thread or crack the component
Lower cover bolts

F18 gear box 40Nm /30lbf ft
F17 (alloy plate) 12Nm /12lbf ft
F17 (steel plate) 30Nm /22lbf ft
To
How To.. Remove the Centre Console
Tools Required
Head unit removal tools
T20 torx bit/screw driver
Small flat blade Screwdriver
Step 1
Remove the head unit and cage from the console, using the appropriate removal tools for your
particular type/make.
Note:
Note: Removing the glove box enables you to get to the wiring at the rear of the head unit if
required this is easy enough to do, by removing the six T20 screws: 3 along the top edge
edge and 3
along the bottom, and lift
lift out the glove box, taking care to disconnect the glove box light whilst
doing so.
loodge for the How To

Thanks to Sploodge
Next remove the lower storage compartment,
photo right, which is retained by four flaps (2 top
& 2 bottom).
If youve got the 4 slot CD holder, its easier to

leave that in place and remove it once the
console is out, if needed.
Step 2
Open the ashtray and remove the plastic

surround on the cigarette lighter
it just levers off with a small screwdriver
Then pull down the metal pop up flap, and

remove the 2 outermost torx screws now visible
along the top edge of the ashtray

Thanks to Sploodge
Then remove the two remaining torx screws to
either side of the head unit slot (photo below
right).
With all the screws out the centre console, all

that remains is to release the clip right at the top
centre of the console (it just pulls off) and the
console can now be moved outwards by a couple
of inches.
Step 3
Next step is to remove the heater control box from the console panel
its held on by 4 spring clips (2 on the top face and 2 on the bottom).
They are quite strong and youll need to lever them up with a small
screwdriver, just enough to be able to push the control back with your
thumb, and then wedge the clip open with a nail or similar.
Its best to concentrate on one side first, and once thats released, do
the other side. Once youve done all 4, the box will just push out.
Note: Be careful not to put too much strain the heater box, as it can
dislodge the control cables from the rear.
Step 4
With the heater control box released, disconnect the loom from
the MFD. Theres a mouse trap type locking clip on it, and all you
need to do is push down on the red arrowed area, and move the
hinged part down so it lies flat along the back of the MFD the
connector can now be removed.
And then slide off the connector from the rear of the hazard
warning switch.
The centre console can now be removed from the dashboard.
If you are
are swapping over consoles, you
youll
ll need to undo the two torx screws on the MFD and unclip
the central air vents from the back of the console.
Refitting is simply a reverse of the removal procedure.

Thanks to Sploodge
How To.. Fit Cruise Control (MK4)
Can you fit Cruise Control?
You need a drive-by-wire throttle control, if the accelerator pedal is connected to a big black box then
you have fly-by-wire, if its a cable then its cable-actuated throttle and this guide is useless to you.
Check 1 The ECU
Before buying the parts for this mod, you'll must

check that you car is pre-wired. Some 2000 & 01
cars don't have the loom in the engine bay, so
this mod wont be possible.
Read through this How To carefully and check all

connections are present before ordering any
parts.
To check if the wiring is there, you need to check

your ECU plug - The wire from the Clutch switch
should go to pin 10.
Disconnect your ECU plug - It's located at the rear

right hand side of your engine block. You need
to push the plastic clip down and flip the metal
lever over to plug. (It can be quite stiff).
You then need to release the tubing and remove

the boot off the back off the plug.
Once you've done that, count 10 holes back from

the front of the plug. Pin 10 should be in
between a Brown wire (pin9) and a Black Wire
(pin11).
If you have a wire there, carry on with the How

too......
If it looks like the photo (left). Replace the plug

and leave alone.
Check 2 - The stalk loom
Remove the highlighted part in the photo (right)

and use a Philips screwdriver to remove the
screw beneath, then turn the steering wheel the
other way and do the same on the other side.
Once both screws are out, carefully lift off the top
cover.
This determines if you have the wiring loom in the

steering column housing - youre looking for a
loose 4 pin connector on the indicator loom.
*NOTE* - Some models do NOT have this

connector but have the Clutch switch already
fitted. If this is the case CC can't be fitted.
Check 3 The clutch and brake pedals
Remove the drivers side cubby hole by undoing

the 4 x turn screws.
If you have the correct brake switch it will have 4

wires going into it as below, if it only has 2 youll
need a new switch.
The photo (right) is the connector plug for the
clutch switch, its located around the clutch
coming from the loom that goes over the foot
heaters.
Assuming that all the wires and connecters

have been found, you can now order the parts
and commence fitting.
Parts required
Screwdrivers Philips &, small flathead

Stalk Part No.13142073 (26.75 + VAT = 31.41)
Clutch Switch Part No.90590574 or 9185907 or 55701396 depending on your car (16.45 + VAT =
19.32).
The clutch switch can be pot luck you'll have to ask your dealer which one is correct for your car (VIN
number)
Total cost - 50.73 (plus any cost for enabling the CC on the Tech2 if required)
Step 1
Remove the steering column cover as described

above.
Remove the stalk by depressing the clip as

shown, theres a similar one on the other side, it
then just slides out.
Remove the stalk from the connector by lift the 2

clips as shown - theres one on the other side too.
Fit the new stalk, to the connector and remember to fit the
small 4 pin cruise control loom to the stalk as well.
Once done, refit the stalk to the steering column, and refit
the top cover. It should then look like the photo below
Step 2
Remove the cover over the pedals by

undoing the 2 turn screws on the front
edge and pull it out of the plastic clips at the
back.
Then remove the air ducting. To do this, pull

out the clip (as shown) on the edge of the
dashboard trim. And then remove the
ducting (with a bit of wiggling)
Youll then be able to get a better view of the

top of the clutch pedal.
Next to the clutch (at the top) therell be a metal
plate with a square hole in it, with a notch on
one corner. You have to be a contortionist for
this part, but try to get something to hold the
clutch pedal down to make things easier.
Connect the clutch switch loom to the switch; itll

only fit 1 way.
Pull the red part out so that the clips on the

plunger can move freely.
Push the switch into the hole with the notch on,
and then push the red part back into the clutch
switch - this will secure it.
This is how the switch should look fitted; when

the clutch is released it should press on the
switch.
Now the clutch switch is in place, put you foot UNDER the clutch pedal and pull it towards you. You'll
hear a series of clicks this is the self adjuster on the switch to make sure the switch is active as soon as
you press the clutch pedal.
Refit the air duct and under dash panel
Now go try it out!! If it doesnt work you may need to go on tech2.

How To.. Debadge the Boot
Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra Owners Club take NO responsibility
for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do anything,
leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done.
This is the same process for any Astra, except that the MK4 has 2 holes under the Griffin badge, so dont
attempt to remove it unless you have an alternative plan to deal with the exposed holes
Tools required:
Hairdryer White spirit

Old credit card or similar plastic card Polish of you choice
Step 1
Place the hairdryer at an angle to the badge and
gently apply the heat. Then using the corner of a
credit card, slowly start prise the badge away from
the car, taking care not to scratch the paintwork
It will look the photo (right) as the badge starts to

come away.
Important note: dont get to close to the badge with

the hairdryer as it will auto switch off when it gets to
hot.
Carry on heating the badge, working your way around

the edge and in towards the middle. Eventually the
badge will come off and the car will look like this
Thanks to john for the How To

Step 2
Next wash the accumulated dirt from the area
around the badge, so it is clean and looks like this .
Using the hairdryer again, warm up the remaining

tape and use the edge of the credit card to carefully
scrape away the remaining thick pieces of tape and
glue residue.
With the best of the old tape out the way, remove any
remaining old glue with some white spirit and a soft
clean cloth
Step 3
Finally give the area a good polish and the final look is
achieved.
Step4
Repeat the process for the other two badges on the
chrome strip

When all three are done, step
back and admire your new
smooth back end

How To.. De-
De-lock the Drivers Door
Why Do this Mod?
The drivers side lock on an Astra G is a reasonably well known security weak point. Anyone
with knowledge of this can easily get round the deadlocking system and open the door. This
modification remedies that buy removing the weak point altogether.
It looks better
Parts needed
Rear Drivers Side Handle (no lock hole) and Backing Plate.
Step 1
Firstly remove drivers door card as detailed in
another Astra-Sport How To
Once the cards are off and safely out of the

way, carefully peel back the plastic liner from
the top rear edge. Take a look inside and youll
see the view as in the picture to the right
Undo the two fastenings (one nut and one Torx

screw in the red squares) that hold on the
yellow plastic cover.
Carefully waggle the yellow cover off and

remove.
Remove the 2nd nut on the back of handle.
Thanks to Ffoeg for the How To

Step 2
Now you can get at the lock

mechanism (shown removed from
the car for clarity)
Carefully lift the mechanism off the

two mounting studs and tease the
end of the push rod out of the lower
mounting (yellow square), and
remove.
Step 3
You should now be able to see the

back of the handle mechanism,
which looks like this
Carefully pop the retaining clip (red

square) off the push rod, tease the
rod out of the hole in the white lever
and remove from car keep the rod
handy as youll need this again.
Now depress the three clips around

the edge of the handle (yellow
squares) and carefully remove the
handle push the bottom edge out
first. The handle should now lift
away from the car

Step 4
Refit the de-lock handle in the reverse of the above making sure the 3 clips engage securely on the
bodywork.
Next refit the pushrod, saved from Step 3 checking the handle operates correctly. There is an
adjuster on the bottom end off the pushrod to adjust the length if needed, but it should be OK as it is.
Once all is well, refit the clip to the rod on the end of the white lever.
Fit the new backing plate do up both retaining nuts do not over tighten the nuts on the rear of the
handle or they will 'spin' in the plastic handle and youll never get it off again.
Do not refit the yellow plastic cover as it will catch on the larger counter weight of the new handle.
Check all is working OK.
Refit door card job done.

How To.. Derestricted the Airb
Airbox
ox
Why do This Mod?

Inside the standard airbox there are two pipes that restrict airflow within the box. Removing these
pipes will make the engine more responsive, and may liberate a few BHP in the process especially
when done in conjunction with an aftermarket panel filter, and the Vectra C Inlet Pipe mod (see
other Astra-Sport How Tos for further information)
Note the example shown is a 1.6 MK4 Astra, but the process is similar for all models
Step 1
Remove the top of the airbox by releasing the clips

(circled blue) as shown, and the hose clip (circled
green) holding the intake feed pipe to the airbox.
Remove any other pipes that may be attached to

the lid they just unclip and lift off.
Once done, remove the airbox lid for the car.
Step2
On the underside of the lid you will see a cone

shaped pipe - It is held in place by the two lugs
(circled blue).
Push these inwards whilst applying pressure to

push the pipe out of the lid
Thats the first pipe removed.
Thanks to M40 COO for the How To

Step 3
Its easier to take the base of the airbox off the car
for the next pipe.
Remove the panel filter, and place it somewhere

clean and out of the way.
Now pull the base of the airbox towards the front of

the car, until the pins come clear of the mounting
bracket. Lift the rear of the box over the bracket, and
slide the lower half backwards and out of the car.
Step 4
The lower pipe is held in place

by two lugs; however you can
only get to one from the
outside of the box (circled
blue).
Put a large screwdriver in the hole and push firmly to release

the lug, pushing it into the airbox.
Then pull and wiggle the

pipe from the inside to
remove it completely.
Step 5
Refit the lower section,

remembering to locate the
intake feed correctly.
Finally replace the filter, and

then refit the lid, outlet pipe
and any other hoses disturbed
during removal.
Thanks to M40 COO for the How To
How To.. Detail You Car
This is a short guide to help anyone detail their car. The good thing is that the all materials and tools
used are easy to source.
These are the stages to keep a car looking its best. Whether on new or old paint-work, this system
works. On certain colours, different polishes and waxes may look better/worse than others. The
polishing stages can be done with a PC or rotary and hand.
Stage 1 Washing
Firstly you must have a clean car to start with, so washing properly is a valuable first step; you also
need the correct tools to work with
Two buckets
Two or more mitts
A good waffle weave towel to dry
Some car wash clear coat safe stuff too!
Just now many good washes are available, personally I opt for.
Meguiars Soft wash gel

Meguiars NXT (removes more protection than soft wash)
1Z Perls Monthly/Weekly depending on dirt build up.
Poorboys slick suds
Fill one bucket with carwash and water solution and the other with warm water. The carwash
solution is to be used with a clean mitt only, and the other bucket is to dunk the used mitt to clean off
any particles that may scratch the paint. Start by washing from roof down (equally) - dont do roof to
skirt on passenger side then move onto roof to skirt on driver. Use one mitt for the roof to door and
the other for door to skirt.
Then just hose down and dry thoroughly with a Waffle Weave (WW)
Step 2 Claying
Once you have cleaned the car, you want to clay it, using some new carwash and water solution for
lubrication just put some on the area with the mitt; make sure the clay has some solution on it too
and rub back and forth, check your work and dont lean too heavily. Turn the clay when you see it
getting dirty.
Next you may want to wash again or just rinse depending on your personal preference.
Thanks to JJ for the How To
Step 3 Surface Analysis
Look around the car looking for any deep scratches, swirls etc. Evaluate what polish you would want
to attack the car with to get it ready for some sealant.
Apply your choice of polish to the terry towel or applicator pad (terry towel has more of a bite and is
better for oxidisation) then rub north-south, east-west and diagonals, never in a circle.
For this step I use, and have access to, a range of polishes, but the ones I would recommend are.
Poorboys SSR2.5
1Z Intensive Polish
Meguiars Deep Crystal Stage 1 paint cleaner
Dual Action Cleaner Polish
Optimum Polish
Once you have worked in the product, remove with a micro fibre polishing towel - make sure it is
plush and is of high quality.
Step 4 Perfecting
Now you have a nice looking base for some perfecting. The previous step is to flatten out the
clear/single stage and make sure it is as scratch free and swirl free as possible.
So you now want to perfect that finish with a finer polish such as;
SSR1 (Metallic)
Autoglym Super Resin Polish (Dark Colours)
1Z Paint Polish (Dark Colours)
3M Machine Polish (Dark Colours)
Meguiars Deep Crystal Polish (Dark Colours)
Meguiars new car glaze #7 (Dark colours)
Meguiars #80 speed glaze (Red, black etc)
Step 5 Sealing
Once you have polished the car now, its ready to be sealed. This is just a simple wipe over with your
favourite sealant; some favourites of mine just now are
Ex-P (Reflective)
EX (Depth)
NXT (has slight cleaners so may remove some glaze) (Metallic)
Autoglym Gloss (Shine)
Menzerna FMJ (Flake, Reflective)
4 star UPP (Flake, Reflective)

After sealing its best to wait 24 hours before applying another coat or adding a wax.
24 hours have elapsed and your car has some dust on it - you can wash or quick detail. With Quick
detail, you just simply spray and wipe to expose your sealed surface. Make sure you have enough
lubrication or you will scratch the surface.
Now here is the choice, many of todays sealants are rumoured to be layerable, although there are
only a few that have been proved to be. In my opinion, I would add one more layer and thats it
(unless you are working with an acrylic or layerable product), as it gives a more even coverage. If it
did not cure or bite properly the last time, chances are it will this time.
Step 6 Waxing
Wait another 24 hours and apply your favourite wax. Dont ruin it now by reaching for the turtle wax
extreme. Invest in a good wax e.g;
P21s (Flake)
Clearkote Carnauba Moose (Dark Colours)
S100 (Flake)
Souveran Paste Wax (Gloss, depth)
Poorboys Nattys (Gloss and depth)
Meguiars #16 (Depth, Flake, Gloss)
Step 7 Wheels & Trim
The wheels and trim were left out as everyone has their own choice of what they do. Although a
good wheel cleaner like Meguiars/Poorboys etc is a must as some of the other brands (acid based)
can destroy the finish if not compatible with the wheels.
A good idea is to mix twice the normal washing strength of shampoo to test first on delicate
alloys/chrome wheels etc.
A handy tip is to polish and seal the wheels after they are completely clean to help with future
washing.
Trim can be dressed in many finishes from satin to gloss. The protectants normally state what finish is
left on the container.

Further Help and information
For help on choosing the correct product for your needs, go to the experts
http://reviews.autopia.org/
While you are there sign up too, for excellent advice and lots of information.
http://autopia.org
All products can be bought from various website based companies, here are just a few.
www.seriousperformance.co.uk
www.cleanandshiny.co.uk
www.erazer.co.uk
www.thepolishingcompany.co.uk
http://www.autopia-carcare.com
Finally an excellent step by step video to ultimate paint protection and preparation.
http://www.guidetodetailing.com/articles.php?articleId=31&page=3

How To.. Fit Speedo Dial Rings (MK4)
Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra-Sport take NO responsibility for any
damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do something leave
it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done.
Tools required
T20 torx bit/screwdriver
Small flat bladed screwdriver
Step 1
Locate and remove the four screws holding the instrument shroud to the dash board there are two
at the top and one each side of the steering column shroud behind plastic covers, that need to be
gently prised out.
Once these 4 are out, simply pull the shroud forwards and ease it out sideways from behind the
steering wheel.
Step 2
Next feel along the top edge of the binnacle and

locate the ends of the clips that hold the Perspex
cover on there are 4 along the top edge
(about1 inch back) and two along the bottom.
Press these in one at a time whilst carefully

levering the cover forward. Once all are released
lift the cover out.
Thanks to Buster Sri for the How To

Step 3
Give the rings a clean to remove any grease or

dirt and fit them to the dials.
Depending on the make/fit these may either

just push in, or require some form of adhesive
to hold them in.
Once all are fitted (and any glue has dried) refit
all the part in reverse order making sure to
clean the perspex of any fingerprints and dust
before refitting.
When all is done in its place, sit back and admire your results of your work..
Thanks to Buster Sri for the How To

How To.. Fit a Mk2 DigiDash to a Mk1
Parts Required
DigiDash from a Mk2, with both connecter plus and plenty of spare loom attached
Gearbox Transducer, with plug and plenty of loom attached
Mk2 instrument surround panel
When you remove the DigiDash from the Mk2, make sure you get both connector plugs with plenty of wire
to make connecting it up easier. The same goes for the Transducer and the plug this is located on the
gearbox where the Mk1 speedo cable would go.
The plastic surround is needed because the DigiDash slopes the opposite way to the Mk1 analogue clocks
and without this youll have a gap.
Procedure
Remove the clocks and speedo cable, then cut your loom close to the plugs and wire in the DigiDash as
follows:-
Mk1 Loom Function DigiDash Plugs
Blue/Black (fuel gauge) Blue/Black
Grey/Green (hazard light flasher) White/Yellow
Blue (temperature gauge) Blue
Blue/Green (oil light) Blue/Green
Brown/White (handbrake warning lamp) Brown/White
Green (rev counter) Green
White (Main beam warning lamp) White
Blue/White (battery voltage reader) Blue/White
Brown Join all Brown wires to the single one on the Mk1 loom
Black Join all Black wires to the single one on the Mk1 loom
Black/White/Green Not used - this is the feed for the single tell tale indicator light
Thanks to Raz for the How To

Left and Right Indicator Tickers
DigiDash Plugs Function MK1 loom

Black/White (indicator left ticker) Join to the top wire
on your indicator stalk
Black/Green (indicator right ticker) Join to the bottom wire
on your indicator stalk
To wire these in, remove the indicator stalk and cut the appropriate wire, then join it to the one from the
DigiDash loom: i.e. on a block connector, there will be two wires in one end and one wire in the other.
The wire from the DigiDash will need to be extended to reach your indicator stalk, but the wires will be
Black/White and Black/Green - the same on your Mk1 indicator stalk. These must work as not having
these flashing is an MOT failure!
Transducer
There are 3 wires on the transducer, wire these as follows:
Red/Blue goes to Red/Blue wire on the DigiDash loom

Black goes to the positive terminal on your battery
Brown goes to the negative terminal on your battery
The black plastic part of the transducer simply screws into the Mk1 speedo spindle and to my knowledge,
fits all Vauxhall MK1 and Mk2 gearboxs whether 1.2 or F20!
Rev Counter
If you are fitting the Digital Dash to a Mk1 that does not have a Rev counter on the original clock, run a
wire to a spare terminal on your coil then connect this to the green wire on the DigiDash plug.
Fitting in
The two locating lugs on the bottom of the DigiDash will need trimming down to fit the Mk1 holes.
You will also need to cut a section from the Mk2 surround: cut this as close as possible to the fold in the
plastic to ensure this fits snugly, and then bond that part to your Mk1 surround. This is needed because
without it you would be able see behind the dash, and thats not good!
Choke Light
As the Mk2 16v had an auto choke, you will need to trim down your existing light holder and fit this into the
second slot from the right in the dash so when you pull on your choke, it illuminates on the dash.
When all fitted back together, and admire!

How To.. Remove Door Cards (3dr)
Tools required
1 Small electricians screwdriver

1 Philips No.2 screwdriver
Step 1
Using the electricians screwdriver, remove
the door pins by prising out the orange
tab on one side.
Once the side has lifted, you'll see a recess

on the top of the tab - insert the
screwdriver in there and gently lever out
the other side. Once both sides are out, lift
away door pin.
Step 2
Now remove the inside mirror trim/
tweeter housing by grasping it on the
widow frame edge and pull sharply. The
panel should pop off easily (if not, use the
small screwdriver as a lever - but be careful
not to scratch the paintwork).
Usually one or two plastic retaining clips

are left attached to the door - prise these
out and refit to the trim panel. There's no
need to disconnect the tweeter - just leave
it dangling

Step3
Using the small screwdriver again, insert it
into the gap between the grab handle and
the arm rest and lever the grab handle off.
Once this has lifted, carefully remove the

cover on the grab handle by lifting the cover
away from the door card, working towards
the front top corner of the door.
Pull the door catch out and lift the cover

away.
Disconnect the electric window switch (and

mirror switch if doing the drivers side).
Step4
Step4
Now using the Philips screwdriver - undo the
four screws under the grab handle
(arrowed).....
.....and the three along the bottom edge of

the door

Step 4
With all screws removed; lift the bottom rear
corner of the door card away from the door.
Pull sharply outwards to release the two
plastic trim clips on the rear edge - these just
pop out. Then work along the bottom edge to
release the single centre clip, and finally
repeat the 'sharp pull' on the leading edge to
release the final two clips.
Step 5
Next use the Philips screwdriver to prise the top of the door card (weather-strip) off the inner door
skin, door by inserting it into the gap on the top edge of the card, near the tweeter housing.
Once one end is lifted, work towards the back of the card, prising it upwards and lift the door card
away from the door slightly.
Step 6
Finally prise out the blue clip that locates the
door catch cable to the inside of the door card
and release the nipple on the end of the cable
- pull the door catch whilst manoeuvring the
cable and it comes straight out
Lift away the door card.
Refit in reverse order and remember to

connect everything back up.

How To.. Remove/
Remove/Replace
Replace the EGR Valve (X18XE1)
(X18XE1)
This How To describes the method to remove/replace the EGR from the X18XE1 engine the process
is similar for other engines fitted with an EGR, but the actual location and tools needed may vary
accordingly.
Tools Needed
Torx Bit T30

Torx Socket E12
And required drivers/Ratchets
Cups of tea if its as cold as it is now!!!
Step 1
Open bonnet and remove the two small Torx
bolts at the top of the engine cover (T30) and
then remove the oil filler cap. Also remove the
positive lead on the battery to prevent any
accidents from occurring.
Remove the engine cover by lifting it from the

back
NOTE : Remove the keys from the ignition and

DO NOT replace until the work is complete
Step 2
You can now see the EGR valve in the above
picture, on the left, (FYI the long plastic type
object across the engine rocker cover is the
coilpack.)
Remove the wiring harness plug on top of the

EGR valve it simply unclips.
Thanks to pardoe16v for the How To

Step 3
Remove the EGR valve using an E12 Torx socket on the two bolts holding it down.
Once these two bolts are out, the EGR valve will simply lift away.
Either clean out the EGR valve with carb cleaner or replace it (which is recommended). Always use a
new gasket when refitting.
Step 4
To refit the new one, simply bolt it back down making sure the metal gasket is the right way around
and correctly fitted, then plug it back in.
Torque wrench setting - 20Nm or 15lbf ft
Replace the engine cover and battery cable.
Thanks to pardoe16v for the How To

How To.. Fit Electric Door Mirrors
Parts Required.
Electric door mirrors (near side and off-side)

Mirror switch (Part #9226863)
Gusset x2 (Part #9100286/9100285)
Relay (Part #24432680)
Fuse 10A (Part # 91153942)
Note: Most Astra Gs will have the wiring in the door ready for you to fit the Electric mirror. However earlier
cars dont and to fit them will mean replacing the whole wiring loom in both doors. This is possible, but a big
job.!! Therefore this How To assumes you have the wiring already in place.
Step 1 - Removing the Tweeter Gusset

To remove the Tweeter gusset, squeeze your fingers between the front window and trim and
carefully pull. They are held on with three small plastic push studs. They can easily break, but are
pence to replace from Vauxhall (90560163). Remove the wire from the tweeter.
(You may be able to see a wire, just below the tweeter wire. This will be for your Electric Mirror and
you may not need to take your door car off in that case go straight to Step 3)
3

Step 2 - Removing Door Card
Prise off the cover on the door handle, its
tight but will come off with a little force.
Then undo the four screws you can now see
under the handle.
(If you can see a grey L-shaped plug and can

get to it, you wont have to remove the door
card. - this plug needs to be fed through the
blank just in front of the release handle)
Undo the three screws at the bottom of the

door. Once the screws are removed, pull
the door card from the bottom rear corner,
popping off the larger Plastic Push studs
(90321122).
Using a flat blade screw driver and a bit of

wood to protect your door card, carefully prise up the weather seal from the door frame, its easier if
youve lowered your window first.
Remove the cable from the back of the door release handle and unplug the Electric window switch.
You should then be able to see the Electric Window wires - One black Square plug for the mirror and
one grey L-shaped plug for the switch.
Step 3 - Replacing the mirrors.

With the front door open, unscrew the
three crosshead screws holding the mirror
in place. Then lift away the mirror from
under the rubber strip.
Clean off any dirt thats found its way under

the plastic trim.
Fit the new mirror ensuring the plastic tag

sits under the rubber seal.
Connect the black square plug into the back

of your Electric mirror.

Step 4 - Refit the door card
Ensure the blanking plate for the mirror switch, and electric window switch has been removed and
check all the plastic trim studs are O.K.
Refit the lock release handle to the cable.
Offer up the door card and pull the relevant wiring through the correct switch holes.
Refit the weather-strip on the door card to the door just lower it on and push downwards
Sharply tap the push studs back in place.
Plug in the Electric window/mirror switches and fit them to the door card.
Refit all the screws and interior handle cover.
Step 5 - Fitting the new gusset.
Unclip the tweeter from your old interior

gusset and fit it to the new one.
Swap the three small push stud over too.
Then just press the gusset back on the door
frame.
Fitting the Passenger side mirror is exactly

the same.
Step 6 - Fuse and relay fitting
Remove the fuse box cover and push the

10A fuse into slot 41. (This will allow the
electric mirrors to move.)

Fit the relay into the shown position. - This
will enable the heating elements to work
(when you turn on the rear screen de-mist)
Finally switch on the ignition, check

everything is working and adjust the
mirrors.
Job Done.

How To.. Fit a Powerflex Front Engine Mount (MK4 F23 only
only))
Why do this Mod?

The standard front engine mount is of a voided design, meaning its got holes in it. This limits the
amount of engine vibration transmitted to the shell, which is all well and good in a standard car.
However the rubber weakens with age/power increases and can cause the engine to flex too much
making gear changes difficult. Too much engine flexing can also damage radiator and intercooler
mountings on Turbo cars fitted with powerpipes. An essential mod for those with short shifters.
shifters.
Tools required:
required
T20 Torx bit (male) 16mm socket

16mm spanner Trolley jack and axel stands
Lump of wood E18 Torx socket (female)
WD40 Thread lock
Torque Wrench
Time required: 1-2 hours.
Step 1
Remove the front bumper (see How To section) to make access a lot easier. It also means you dont
have to jack the car up so high off the ground, making things a little a safer.
Step 2:
Spray WD40 or similar on the bolts and
let it soak in. In the meantime, raise
the front passenger side of the car: I
did this by placing the jack under the
sub frame mounting and lifting the car
high enough to get the axel stand
underneath. Repeat for the other side.
Next, position the jack with a block of

wood on the head, under where the
gearbox joins the engine and jack it up
just enough to take the weight of the
engine, and no more!!.
The photo shows the WD40 going to

work on the mount:
DarrylB
Thanks to Darryl B for the How To
Step 3
Using the 16mm spanner and socket, undo the sub frame-to-mount nut, remove the bolt. Then using
the E18 female torx socket, undo the 2 mount-to-gearbox bolts. The mount should be easy to remov
then.
Step 4
Give the mount and rubber a good clean to remove all dirt and grit and then insert the two poly
bushes on either side of the mount. Note: the Powerflex bushes are handed and so must be fitted
to the correct side, so that they sit flush in the mount.
Step 5
Offer up the mount back up to the car and
loosely fit the mount-to-gearbox bolts first,
REMEMBER to put a good squeeze of thread lock
on the bolts first!
Align the bolt up with hole and attach the nut on

the mount-to-sub frame side, again using plenty
of thread lock to be sure.
Go round and tighten each of the bolts to the
specified torque.
Mount-Gearbox - 60Nm (44 lbf ft)

Mount-Sub frame - 55Nm (41 lbf ft)
Step 6
Lower the jack from the engine, and then lower the car to the ground.
Finally, refit the bumper and the job is done!
DarrylB
Thanks to Darryl B for the How To
How To.. Remove the Front Bumper ((Astra
Astra G)
Tools Required
No.20 Torx bit (star shaped).
Small flat bladed screw-driver.
A pair of long nose pliers.
Step 1
Turn your front wheels to full right lock;
this will enable you to get to the screw in
the left wheel arch.
Using the No20 Torx bit, undo both

screws around the wheel arch.
Then turn your wheel to full left lock and

repeat for the other side.
Note This bumper is fitted with an

Irmscher lip.
Step 2
Working under the car you need to locate
the three clips holding the bottom of the
bumper to the car.
To remove these clips, you have to extract

the pin in the centre, and then pull the
outer away. I found it easier to lever out
the pin with a flat bladed screwdriver and
pull it out with some long nose pliers.

Step 3
Before removing any more clips, release the brackets
at each wheel arch - To do this, carefully prise out
the tab at the top of the arch.
The bumper is also slightly held in under the wing

but it should release quite easily.
Step 4
All that is now holding the bumper on is the
two clips at the top.
To access these clips, open your bonnet and

remove then in the same way as clip B
If you rest your knees against the bumper it

wont fall as you remove the last clip.
Your bumper should then just lift away from

the car and rest on the blanket

Step 5
Youll need to unclip the air temperature sensor (right)
And the front fog lights, if fitted (below)
Then your bumper

should be off the car.
ReFitting.
To refit your bumper it is,
in true Haynes manual
style, exactly the
opposite of removal. But
things to watch out for
are.
When refitting the

brackets in behind the
arch, the bumper may
not sit correctly under
the wing. A soft tap on
the bumper with the
palm of your hand will
help it back in place.
When fitting Clip B it is

easier to fit the outer
part of in position then
push the pin into place.

How To.. Change the Fuel Filter (Petrol Engines)
Part Nos
25320277 - Fuel filter
The fuel filter is located just in front of the rear nearside wheel you should be able to get to it with
the car on the ground, but jacking it up at the back and supporting on axel stands makes the job a lot
easier.
Step 1
Firstly, depressurise the fuel rail
somewhere near the injector
rail is the depressurisation point:
it looks like a big tyre valve cap
(shown circled on the photo of
a 2.2 engine).
You may have to remove the

engine cover to find it!!!
Unscrew the cap carefully as the

rubber seal inside can
sometimes fall out and
disappear into the depths of the
engine!!
Then depress the centre pin on

the valve to release the
pressure. Some petrol will come
out, so use a clean absorbent
cloth to catch it and prevent it
going all over the engine.
You will need to press the pin a few times to ensure the fuel system is fully depressurised.
When done, refit the cap (making sure the rubber seal is located correctly)

Step 2
With the fuel system depressurised,
locate the fuel filter and undo the small
Torx screw (circled red) which holds
the filter to the underside of the car.
Then gently prise the filter from the

bracket this should then give to
enough slack to get at the pipe clips.
Doing one side at a time, push the filter

into the pipe a bit to relieve the tension
on the clips (blue square), and depress
the 2 wings - one on each side of the
clip - to release them. And the pull the
filter from the pipe. Be prepared for
some petrol running down your arm!!
If youve got strong fingers you should

be able to do this quite easily, but
failing that use two small screw drivers
to push in the wings nearest to the
filter. Repeat for the other side.
Step 3
Now, using a small screw driver,

carefully swap the clips from the old
filter to the new one making sure you
refit them the correct way round.
Then simply refit the new filter to the

fuel lines (making sure that it is fitted
the correct way round) - it simply
pushes in to the pipe until it clicks.
There is a flow direction arrow on the
filter to help you.
Finally, refit the filter to the bracket

and tighten the Torx screw.
Then turn the ignition on for 5-10

seconds to re-pressurise the fuel system
Job done!!

How To.. Replace the Gear Knob
Knob
Tools
Tools required
Stanley knife
Junior Hacksaw
Small Flat Blade Screwdrivers
Small Allen Key (usually provided)
Step 1
Using a small flat blade screwdriver, prise

out the cap from the top of the gear knob.
Step 2
Carefully score the rubber gear knob with

the Stanley knife, as shown, and then
proceed to cut a along the lines until the
rubber portion can be peeled away.
Take care not to slip and gouge the centre

console or seats!!!
Thanks to Kinsella for the How To

Step 3
With the rubber removed, use the junior

hacksaw to remove the underlying plastic
part.
Note one some models this part is soft

aluminium alloy, but the process is
identical.
Its advisable to lay an old cloth around

the base of the gear stick to catch the
debris, whilst you are sawing.
Step 4
With the old gear knob removed, take a

few minutes to clean up every last bit of
debris before proceeding to installing the
new knob
Dont loose the spring!!
Step 5
Some aftermarket knobs fit directly to the

stalk, but Irmscher ones require a collar to
be clamped to the stalk before the knob
can be fitted.
Please refer to the manufacturers

instructions on the correct fitting
procedure to ensure its a good tight fit,
(and that you can still get reverse!).
If any bonding agents are required, give it

ample time to fully set before using the car

The final product...

How To.. Install a Lockable Glovebox Lid.
Parts Needed
9199416 - Glovebox Handle Cover (with lock hole).

You will also need your V5 and your key code from your CAR PASS CARD - Normally a letter and 3
numbers (example D123), so that you get the correct lock for your car
Some cars already have a latch that will accomodate the lock mechanism without the need to buy a
new one, so check first. If you dont, then you will need to get the appropriate latch Part
No.90437502
Step 1
Using a Torx T-20 Screwdriver remove the glovebox by removing all six Torx screws (3 along the top
and 3 along the bottom). When all the screws are out, youll need to pull the box forward slightly
and disconnect the light connector on the right hand side before you can fully withdraw the box.
It is advisable to remove the

glovebox lid by removing the
two hinges pins at the base of
the glove box lid. This will
make removing the latch
mechanism much easier. Use a
thin screwdriver or punch to
push out the hinges as shown
on the right
Once the hinges have been

removed, and the lid
separated, the process of
removing the old latch
mechanism from the lid can
commence.
Thanks to BasilD & Keif for the How To

Step 2
Line up the glovebox lid as shown

right:
Next you need a fairly large flat

blade screwdriver to pry out the
latch mechanism.
NOTE: Ensure that you do not use

too small a screwdriver, as this
will damage the glove box lid.
Position the Screwdriver as

shown below and push it under
the base of the latch mechanism.
Some force may be required as

the latch mechanism is clipped in
quite firmly. It will pop out
making quite a noise - this is
normal.
NOTE:
NOTE It is advisable to place a cloth between the glovebox lid and the screwdriver to protect the lid
from damage.
Step 3
Assemble the Lockable Latch by inserting the lock and the outer cover of the latch onto the latch
mechanism. This will leave you with this: If you have the correct latch on your car, the old cover
simply unclips.

Once the latch mechanism is assembled as shown above, the process of clipping in the new lock latch
mechanism can commence.
Step 4
Position the new lockable latch mechanism

(as per photo right) and push firmly on the
lower edge it until it clips into place as shown
below.
Note: The angle of the latch mechanism, as

this is the angle that you will need to position
the latch mechanism in order to clip it back
into place.
Step 5
Re-attach the lid to the glovebox, and re-
insert the glovebox back into the car.
NOTE:
OTE dont forget to reconnect the light!!
Congratulations you now have a lockable

glovebox!

How To.. Fit an Aftermarket Head Unit (Astra H)
Parts Required:
Fascia adaptor and Canbus to ISO adaptor (Vauxhall part no. for matt chrome effect 93165013
Head unit Release keys (Double Din size)
Torx head screwdriver set
Wire strippers
Wire snips
Before beginning you should disconnect the negative terminal from the battery to be on the safe
side.
You should also be aware before carrying out this mod, that while you will still have access
access to the trip
computer via the steering wheel controls, you WONT have access to the settings menu which means
you cant adjust the clock or date without reattaching your old head unit. So in my case this meant
removing the glove box and reconnecting the old one to change the date. Doesnt bother me but it
may bother some of you.
Step one
First thing to do is remove the old head unit, this

is simply a case of inserting the release keys into
the 4 holes on the Head unit (no grub screws to
remove first in the Mk5) and then pull them back
bringing the head unit with it.
This can be a bit of a pig for some people. Just

make sure you insert the pins in as far as theyll
go and then gently splay them out to the sides
while pulling back gently, be patient and itll
come out.
Once its out, disconnect the wiring from the back

of the head unit.
Thanks to Stu Sxi For the How To

When the Head unit has been successfully
removed you will see a black cage, which the
head unit sat in - remove this also.
Step Two
The next step is to remove the heater control panel: this is simply done by levering up two clips on
the top right and left of the heater control unit with a flat head screwdriver. The unit will then pull
away from the centre console it needs a little force, but it will come out.
Disconnect the two electrical connectors from the back of the unit.
Once you have removed the heater control panel, you will see two torx head screws in the bottom
right and left corners of the centre console which are the only two screws holding the centre console
in place, remove these two torx head screws.
Step Three
We can now remove the centre console trim

- there are two retaining clips in the top right
and left hand corners (circled) that hold the
trim panel on.
Some force will be required to pull the trim

out of these clips; dont try levering it off
with a screwdriver as this isnt necessary.
Simply pull the trim in a quick sharp motion
at the top and itll come away.
Unclip the connector for the hazard lights,

etc, at this point.

Step Four
There should be a clip included in the fascia adaptor kit (below left): this attaches to the circled hole.
This is needed to attach the fascia support, which is attached as per this picture:
Step Five
You can now attach the wiring adaptor thats

included in the set to the Head unit connector
in the car. The adaptor should also include an
adaptor for the aerial - this also needs to be
connected.
You will notice that the wiring adaptor has two

loose wires which are not connected to
anything - one is Black and one is Grey/Yellow
These two wires need to be run through the red
circled hole, up behind the recess, and back out
through the yellow circled hole.
Removing the glove box makes this much easier

- undo the 4 Torx screws on the glove box and
give the box a sharp pull to release the clips,
and out it comes. Dont forget to unclip the
light connector at the back.

Step six
You now need to splice the two wires into the hazard light (etc) loom
The Black wire needs connecting to the Black wire in the hazard light loom and the Grey/Yellow wire
needs connecting to you guessed it the Grey/Yellow wire in the hazard light connector.
The easiest way to do this is to simply trim of sort section of the

plastic sheathing back to expose the wire itself (taking care not
to cut the wire itself) and then separate the wires evenly in two:
this will then allow you to weave the black wire from the
adaptor through the wire in the hazard light connector, thus
ensuring a good strong connection. Repeat this process for the
Grey/Yellow wire.
These can then be insulated with electrical tape, but soldering is

recommended to make a permanent joint. Alternatively you
could do this process with electrical connectors
Step seven
Once you have connected the wires, the

centre console trim can be reconnected to
its electrical connector and clipped back into
place and the two torx head retaining
screws can also be screwed back in.
The heater control unit can also be

reconnected and pushed back into its
housing till the clips engage.
The fascia plate can now be pushed into its

home and secured by inserting the supplied
screw into the back of the storage area and
tightening.
So thats it all done, now simply connect

your head unit up as per the manufacturers
instructions.
Once the new head unit is all installed you can reconnect the battery, but you will find that the date
and time on the MFD will need resetting: do this as mentioned on the first page.

How To.. Fit HID lights
Tools Needed
Junior Hacksaw
Drill
T20 Torx Screwdriver & Flathead Screwdriver (if removing front bumper)
Cable Ties (If not supplied with HID kit)
Step 1
Remove bulb holders from back of headlight
(dipped beam) and remove H7 bulb.
Step 2
Take the bulb holder and cut off the L-Shaped back section using a
hacksaw (have plenty of spare blades!). Cut from all sides until you feel
you are hitting metal
After doing this, pull the cut piece away

from the part with the lugs on. This will
bring out all of the bulb contacts.
Thanks to jcastraDTi for the How To

Step 3
Using a drill, drill out the rest of the plastic from the back of the
bulb holder - this will allow the wires connected to the back of the
HID bulb to pass through the holder and be connected to the
ballast.
Drill out as much as possible, and then tidy up the edges with a
file and/or sandpaper.
Step 4
Take the protective plastic covers off the
HID bulbs and then thread the two wires
through the back of the bulb holder.
You may find your HID kit has 4 wires: the

two wires with spade connectors on the end
are not needed, so cut these off and pull the
wires through the rubber seal
WARNING Do not touch the bulbs with

your fingers, it will damage them
Step 5
Now squeeze the
rubber seal through to
the back of the bulb
holder. This is quite
tight but it will go
through with patience
and a bit if effort.
Then push the rubber

seal right up to the
back of the bulb holder
so it holds the bulb
firmly in place

Step 6
Now the delicate part carefully fit the bulb and
holder into the headlight.
Step 6
Connect the wires from the bulb to the
wires on the ballast box.
Then plug the ballast box into the original

bulb socket from the car - it will only go in
one way round. Once done, test to see if
the bulb lights.
If it does not (as I have found), the socket

from the car needs to be adjusted as
follows
The clip which holds the plug onto the

original bulb holders needs to be removed
as it prevents the plug from being fitted to
the ballast the other way round. This can
be done but just snipping either side of
the clip with side cutters to remove it.

Step 7
Securing the ballast boxes can be done in a variety of
ways depending on what engine you have and how you
want to do it.
The best way is to take the front bumper off (see How
To on removing front bumper) and secure the ballast
using the bracket provided with the kit to the bottom
headlight bracket (photo right)
or like I have done, just find somewhere to cable tie

the ballast box to, so it is secure and will not come
loose. (Photos below)
Enjoy your new

lights!!

How To.. Clean the Idle Control Valve (early Ecotec Engines)
Why do this job?

The Ecotec Idle Valves (ICV) are well known for getting gummed up with oily deposits which causes
them to stick, resulting in stalling or high revving at idle. However its an easy task to sort the
problem out. An X20XEV is used in this How-To, but the process is the same for other engines.
Tools required
Flat blade screwdriver
Allen keys
Silicon grease spray (or clean engine oil)
Carb Cleaner (aerosol)
Step1
Unscrew the 2 jubilee clips marked in red in the
picture below and lift off the inlet pipe.
Then unclip the plug to the Solenoid, marked in

yellow.
Place the inlet pipe out of the way - there is no

need to disconnect the breather hose.
However is it wise to take the opportunity to
remove the intake hose completely and clean
out any oily residue from the inside this will
necessitate the removal of the small jubilee clip
seen on the elbow.
Step
Step 2
Remove the two Allen screws from the ICV,
marked in red and remove the idle valve
assembly from the throttle body.
With the Idle Valve off the car, remove the two
screws from the solenoid mounting, marked in
blue.
Carefully remove solenoid from the valve,

taking care to retain the rubber O-Ring.
Thanks to Townshend Systems and Software Development for the How To

Step 3
Liberally spray carb cleaner inside the Valve body,
through each of the holes two on the throttle
body side and one on the solenoid end.
With fingers covering the holes give the assembly

a good shaking.
Repeat this procedure for a number of times

(5-10 times), until the valve spindle moves freely
against the spring and the carb cleaner drains
clear.
Step 4
Shake out remaining cleaner and allow to dry, then lubricate with a small amount of spray silicon
grease (but some light oil or clean engine oil will suffice) on the contact areas and reassemble.
Use the remainder of the carb cleaner to clean the throttle body and intake pipe (following
instructions on the can) whilst the parts are disassembled.
Reassemble all parts, remembering to refit the O ring, and connect up the cable to the solenoid.
Thanks to Townshend Systems and Software Development for the How To

How To.. Fit Irmscher Door Sill Covers
This guide covers fitting to a 3dr Mk4, but the process will be similar with other body stiles and makes
of sills
Items needed
Your Irmscher Sill Covers
Some Cleaning Wipes ( I used Glass wipes )
A Cloth
Step 1
Firstly; remove the bottom door seal to fit any sill
cover that has a curve (like the Irmscher ones).
It comes off very easily, so start at one end and lift

gently upwards.
Step 2
Next you will need to thoroughly clean the area
where the sill cover will be fitted.
For this, I used a few glass cleaning wipes and

then wiped of with a clean dry cloth.
Make sure this is done thoroughly and all dirt is

removed, before continuing as the sill cover
might not stick.
Thanks to Sloodge for the How To

Step 3
Next step is to locate where you want to put
the sill cover.
On my car I had the following grooves and used

them to align the sill cover.
You might need to mark the area with a pencil

or tape (on both door sills) if you dont have
these grooves.
Step 4
Put the sill in place to see how it looks (do not
remove the film over the sticky strips yet).
Once youre happy go to step 5.
Step 5
Remove the red backing film from the adhesive
strips.

Step 6
When putting the sill covers in place, align the
back edge first (1) and when its in the correct
place, lower it onto the sill (2)
Cover the sill cover with the clean cloth and press
down firmly, along the entire length, to make
sure it is fully in place.
Step 7
Once the cover is in place, refit the door seal -
make sure it goes back properly, starting from the
back to the front of the door. There is a small cut-
out on the sill that lines up with a bump, in the
rubber strip
Step 8
Admire the work and maybe have a cuppa, then
get starting on the other side
The entire job took me 20 minutes (this included

drinking a cup of tea, as well as taking the
photos).

How To.. Remove the Orange Diffuser from the Multi Function Display
(MK4 MY02 onwards)
NOTE:
NOTE This mod is for all Astra Gs built post-Oct 2001 inclusively (i.e. MY02 onwards). You will need
the white diffuser from a pre MY02 Astra to be able to do this modification. Otherwise this will be a
useless exercise.
This "how to" assumes you have your MFD (Multi Function Display) removed from the car. Also this is
a cheaper way than using LEDs as a form of changing the colour of the MFD by using plastic sleeves
over the 2x12V/2W bulb which lights this unit up.
Step1
Lift the three plastic tabs on the top and bottom of the display unit, and withdraw the rear cover.
Thanks to SmellyTofu for the How To

Step 2
Depress the four clips (arrowed) that hold the fascia cover to the inner frame and the remove fascia
plate
Step 3
VERY CAREFULLY lift up the tab (arrowed) which holds down the LCD screen. Damage to the
connections will result in missing letters from the screen!!!
The rubber seal may also stick to the LCD, so be careful and slowly pry that off the LCD screen.

Step 4
Now you can see the orange diffuser. There are tabs on both ends that you need to lift up ...
and also in the middle of the top edge.
Note: that the bulbs & white diffuser itself are not
shown in the picture, but is exactly the same as
the orange diffuser in the picture, only it is white.
Installation is the reversal of this procedure.

How To.. Fit LEDs to Door Switches (Mk5)
Astra Owners Club disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra Owners Club take NO
Tools Required
Soldering Iron with small tip.

Fine Solder
T8 Torx Head Driver
Solder Sucker (Optional)
Tweezers (or borrow the wifes/girlfriends)
And a small and rather expensive pile of LEDS :-)

available from http:/www.ledconversions.co.uk
Step 1
Firstly you need to disassemble the switch, to be honest if you can't do this without a set of instructions
then youre wasting your time, although a few pointers wont hurt.
You will firstly need to remove the 6 x T10 Torx screws from the rear of the switch
Thanks to Darwin for the How To

The switch shown opposite is from an
Astra Mk5 with electric rear windows, but
whatever Astra you have, yours will be
similar.
The screwdriver is pointing to one of the

lugs, which you need to gently lever apart
to open up the switch
Step 2
Once done, you will be left with 2 parts -
one is the plastic housing the other is the
PCB containing the LED's (highlighted with
RED dots)
You now need to remove the existing

LEDs, Just de-solder one side at a time
and bend the LED away from the PCB.
Please Note: on each LED there is a

small green mark; the orientation needs
to be noted for when you solder the new
ones in place.

Step 3
Solder in the new LEDs, one at a time,
taking care to ensure they are the correct
way round
Step4
When all are done, test fit the switch in
the car before you reassemble it, to check
that they all work OK.,
If any dont light up, then you have soldered

them the wrong way round.
If you find any that arent working then you

need to remove that particular LED, and
throw it away and solder a new one on the
correct way round.

And all back together again

How To.. Fit LEDs to the Heater Controls (Mk5)
Tools Required

Fine Solder
A small and rather expensive pile of LEDS :-)

Step 1
Firstly you need to disassemble the Heater Panel: There are 8 little tabs around the outside you need to
insert a small screwdriver and lever the tabs gently, gently prise the back cover off.

Step2
After you have gently levered them apart you will be left with 2 parts, one being a PCB in a plastic housing
this will need to be unclipped and GENTLY levered out.
That leaves you with this.
DONT TURN THE DIALS - if you do its

an absolute bugger to get you controls
to work properly.

Step3
Firstly you need to remove the little black rubbers
then unsolder the existing LEDs.
Unsolder one side at a time and bend the LED

away from the PCB.
Please Note: on each LED there is a small green

mark , or a corner missing - this needs to be
noted down for when you solder the new item in
place.
Step4
The first 3 LEDS illuminate the dials; the
RED arrows indicate the direction of the
cut-out.
There are 4 soldered connections for

each LED and its quite small.
Dont hurry, take your time and you will

be fine.
There are 6 other LEDS on that circuit

board: they are even smaller but to be
honest easier, the LED positions are
highlighted by BLUE arrows.
If you cannot find the small green mark

(it can be difficult) look for a little circle to
one end of the LED, and as long as the
new one you attach is the same way round everything will work correctly.
If any do not light up, then you have soldered them the wrong way round.
If you find one (I did) then you need to remove that particular led, throw it away and solder a new one on
the correct way round. If you still make a mistake go to www.ledconversions.co.uk and email me.
Reassemble the unit, re-fit and test.

All back together again

How To.. Fit LEDs to the Headlight Switch (Mk5)
Tools Required

Fine Solder
T8 Torx Head Driver

Step 1
Firstly you need to disassemble the switch, to be honest this is probably more difficult that actually
soldering the new LEDs into position.
Firstly you need to GENTLY prize apart the 6 lugs that hold the switch together.

Step
2
After
removi
ng the
top
cover,
remov
e the
small
plastic
clip
that
surrounds the switches on the right hand side.
Step3
Unclip the two switch covers on the right hand side
to allow access to the PCB and then unscrew the 6
Torx screws that hold the bottom piece of the
switch together.
ONCE UNSCREWED DO NOT TURN THE DIALS !!
You can now gently lever off the top cover of the
switch to reveal the PCB below and peel off the little
rubber bungs.
Step4
Once the PCB is removed, you will notice the little
arrows in the corner of the LEDs, this denotes the

direction of the cut-out in the corner of the new LEDs.
Unsolder one LED at a time (and be careful), good soldering takes time and will make the end result look
better.
Reassembly is basically the reverse, things to watch out for are making sure the screws are tight on
assembly and making sure the connector is properly fastened to the loom once reconnected.

How To.. Fit LEDs to the Roof Console (Mk5)
Tools Required
1 x pair of Small Pliers or side cutters

1 x pair of tweezers
3 x 3mm LEDs 13,000mcd
.
Leds are available from

http:/www.ledconversions.co.uk
Step 1
With the roof console removed
from the car, identify the three
LEDs that are to be changed
(circled in red).

Step2
Take one of the new LEDs, and looking closely, you
will notice that it has a corner cut off the round
surface.
Turn the LED so that the flat is facing upwards

and bend the closest leg upwards, bend the other
leg at right angles as in the picture.
Warning : Bend the leg approx 6mm away for the

led so it looks similar to the ones already in
position.
Step 3
You now have to remove the old orange LEDs from the circuit board,
Just cut the wires and wiggle them free. you may find it easier to lift the copper track slightly.
Step 4
When you have done this, lay the new LED roughly
in the position it needs to be in, and cut off the
excess wire from the legs of the LED.
(Sorry about the low quality of the picture, I think it

gives you the right idea)
When happy with the position, simple fit the legs

under the copper tracks
Repeat for the other two, which should take about

5 mins in total.

When all are done it should look like the panel you started off with
Finally, refit the panel back in the car

How To.. Fit LEDs to the Instruments (Mk5)
Tools Required

Fine Solder
T10 Torx Head Driver
Tank Tape

Step 1
The 2 pictures you see below are the front and back views of set of Astra H, (Mk5) Clocks , these are are
from an automatic, but it makes little difference except the automatic has 2 more LEDs (They will be
missing if you have a manual).

Start by removing the 8 x T10 screws from the rear
cover of the clocks, and lift off the cover
Step 2
There is one small clip at each side that needs
unclipping, when you have done so the clock face and
PCB separate as shown
Step 3
The easiest way to remove the 3 needles without
damaging them is to insert a fork under them and
gently lever, If you dont have a Thomas the Tank
Engine fork handy, feel free to use Postman Pat or
similar.

After you remove the needles remove the black
fascia and you will be left with this
Step 4
Now, this one is a bit of bugger so BE GENTLE!!
Lever the 2 parts apart slightly after, releasing

the clip. The point of this is to remove the black
display holder as shown below this unclips with 4
lugs, the problem is there is a fragile ribbon cable
connected to it that you REALLY dont want to
break.
So separate the opposite side to where the

screen is located by approx 3cm , this should be
enough to get your fingers in and unclip the black
part , sorry I couldnt get a better picture but I
only have 2 hands.

Step 5
Ok now a backward step re-assemble the unit
together without the black LCD holder as shown
in the photo above.
You then need to gently fold over the LCD panel

as shown in the picture (right) without putting too
much stress on the ribbon cable.
Step 6
Safety first , cut a piece of tank tape and stick the
ribbon cable to the PCB , you can leave it in place
and dont need to remove it , I dont want you to
brake your clocks !
Step 7
Ok now to the solder part...
The little RED arrows are next to the LEDs you

need to change, the direction of the arrow
corresponds with a small cut out on the edge of
the LEDs.
There are 17 LEDs on an automatic and 15 on a

manual. If you have a manual the top two in the
central group of six are missing
You need to remove the LEDs one at a time and

solder in the replacement. Its recommended that
you print out the above picture and cross off when
you have completed each LED.
Its not as difficult as it looks, and the main things to remember is take your time and remember to check
on the above picture which way round the LEDs fit.
When you have completed the above, re-assemble and refit.

How To.. Nova Mirrors to a Mk1
Parts Required
One pair of Nova Door mirrors its worth colour coding the shells before you start
Step 1
On the back of the Nova mirror you will notice a roundish moulding that goes through the door which the
screws go in to this will need to be trimmed slightly to fit a Mk1. If you offer it up against the Mk1 door
you'll be able to see exactly the area that needs cut back with a hacksaw.
Step2
Once this is done put the mirror flush against the door and mark on the black alloy window trim where you
need to cut to make the mirror flush with the door. You only need to trim a very small piece off.
Step3
Now youll notice that only two of the original Mk1 mirror mounting holes will line up, the other won't as
that was part of the plastic base plate that you've just cut away.
Step4
When everything lines up perfectly and youre happy, put some threadlock on the two remaining screws
and fasten the mirror securely to the door
Step5
Next you'll need to cut a small hole in the passenger side trim to allow the remote adjuster arm to poke
through; the driver's side fits fine.
It took me about half an hour and its well worth it!

How To.. Change the Engine Oil
Parts required
Correct oil filter for your Engine
Correct oil for your Engine
New Sealing Ring for the sump plug metal or rubber depending on engine
Check which you need before purchasing any parts
Step 1
Run the engine for a few minutes to make sure that the oil is warm, so that it flows better 10 minutes
should do it. You want it warm, not hot. Then switch off the engine
Look under the car and locate the sump plug it will be at the lowest point on the sump. On some
engines it will be towards the gearbox, and on others it will towards the crankshaft pulley end.
Once located, jack up (and support on an axel stand) the front wheel on the opposite side of the car to the
sump plug, to help with the drainage, eg
Z18XE Z22SE
The plug is located on the bottom front corner of The plug is located on the back of the sump at the
the sump, next to the bell housing so jack up the crank pulley end so jack up the passenger side
drivers side front wheel front wheel
Thanks to Smelly Tofu and Ffoeg for the How To

Step 2
Note the engine will be hot!! So be careful
especially when working near the exhaust
Undo the oil filler cap, but do not remove it just

leave it loose in the hole so that dirt cant get fall
in. Its also a good idea to remove the engine
cover (if fitted), so that spills can be easily cleaned
up when you come to refill it.
Step 3
Undo the sump plug a few turns and then place a
bucket/bowl underneath the sump. Then continue
to undo the sump bolt and let the oil drain fully
Don't worry too much if you drop the sump plug in

the bucket - You can retrieve it later with some
pliers but try not to drop it in the first place.
Be careful that the oil is not too hot as scalding

can occur.
Also have a rag handy so you want wipe your

hands and any spills ASAP. Avoid prolonged
contact with engine oil. (You'd know this if you
read the warning on the side of the oil container.)
Step 4
Whilst the oil is draining, you can turn your attention to the oil filter. There are two types fitted to Astra
engines canister and cartridge and both are dealt with differently.
Canisters are mounted horizontally and can be either on the front or back of the engine depending on
which one youve got.
Cartridges fit vertically inside a holder which is covered by a plastic (or metal) cap, and are found on the
front of the engine.

Canister Cartridge
Locate and remove the oil filter. Locate the filter cap and using a 32mm socket,
unscrew the cap and lift it clear of the engine the
If the filter is too tight, then there are various tools filter will be attached to the cap.
that can help remove. Otherwise a big screwdriver
stuck through the side of the filter will help lever
the filter out. Be prepared for some oil running
out so have a rag handy
Remove the old filter, and insert the new one

making sure it fitted the correct way round it will
click into place.
WARNING: Be careful of the exhaust that is to the Refit to the engine and tighten the cap to
left of the picture. Severe scalding can occur if the 15nm/11lbf ft and wipe any spilt oil from the
exhaust manifold is not cool enough. block

Before putting the oil filter on, wipe some new
engine oil over the rubber seal and thread of the
new filter.
Refit the new filter and do not over tighten

(15nm/11lbf ft), or it will be difficult to remove
next time hand tight will suffice
Finally wipe any spilt oil from the block, sump and
exhaust.
Step 5
Remove the old sealing ring from the sump plug and
fit a new one. Then give it a wipe with clean engine
oil to lubricate it.
Wipe down the sump drain hole, refit the plug and
tighten to..
8v engines
steel sump 55nm or 41 lbf ft
alloy sump 45nm or 33 lbf ft
16v engines
1.4, 1.6 & 1.8 engines
rubber seal 14nm or 10lbf ft
metal seal 45nm or 33lbf ft
2.0 engine 10nm or 7lbf ft
2.2 engine 25nm or 18lbf ft
The above are for Mk4 petrol engine so check the setting if you have a different Mk and/or engine
Step 6
Refill the engine with new oil using a funnel makes it
much easier and lessens the chance of spills
Generally stop at around 4 litres and then check the

levels using the dipstick. Make sure you give it time for
the oil to get to the sump.
This picture shows that it isn't quite enough yet.
After it is up to the max mark, run the engine for

about 5 seconds so that the oil filter fills up.
Pour more oil if necessary so that the oil is at the max

mark on the dipstick.

Finally
Please dispose of the old oil responsibly - Your Local Council will be able to advise you of recycling centres
that will accept it from you free of charge
It's advisable to degrease the areas that have spilt oil on them such as the sump and block
Otherwise you'll just get this burning oil smell as well as smoke for a day or two as the oil burns off.
Go for a short drive and check the levels again after letting the oil run back down to the sump. Do this on
level ground
Do a final check on oil leaks.
If it's still at the full mark, then you are done. Pack up and enjoy!

How To.. Paint Plastic Trim
Things you'll need
White Spirit
Wet & dry abrasive paper (240 & 600 for flatting the plastic, 800 for smoothing the primer and
1200/1600 for flatting the lacquer.)
Paint - Halfords primer/filler, plastic primer, colour coat, and clear lacquer.
NOTE: You must make sure that you DO NOT touch any part of the cleaned, primed, or painted
surfaces with your fingers, as the grease from you fingers will cause the paint to react and peel. Its a
good idea to wipe over the part with white spirit, at the beginning of every stage to make sure that it
is completely grease and dust free.
Step 1
Remove the part(s) that you want to paint.
Step 2
Wipe over the whole area with white spirit before you start using the wet & dry.
You need to key the surface with the 600 & 240 W&D, use warm soapy water, and work all of the
area that needs painting with the W&D. This will get rid of any silicone residue and key the surface so
the primer will adhere to the plastic. You will know when its right as the plastic wont have the grain
left and it will feel really smooth.
Step 3
Next you need to ensure that the panel is completely dry, or the primer will not stick. Use paper towel
or something similar to wipe over the whole panel. Leave the part(s) it in a warm room for a while,
just to make sure its completely dry.
Step 4
Get your primer and shake it well for a couple of minutes. Then apply the primer to the part, using
light coats only. Don't do like I did and cover it in one go as you'll muck it up and have to start again.
Apply lots of thin coats every 10 - 15 minutes - don't be tempted to save time by putting thick coats
on.
Step 5
Continue spraying until the whole panel is evenly covered. You should have a few coats of primer on
by now. Wait for it to completely dry preferably by placing it a room with a heater on.
Thanks to T520 SRI for the How To

Step 6
Using the 800 W&D, and soapy water, very lightly smooth out the primer, don't rub too hard, as you
will take the primer off the plastic and you will have to reapply it again. All you need to do is smooth
out the primer.
Look for any pin holes in the primer. This is the basic foundation to getting the paint looking
professional, so its worth spending time making sure its right. Make sure everything is wiped dry and
dust free when its smooth.
Step 7
Grab your selected colour, and shake it for a couple of minutes. Then apply the paint slowly in thin
coats. Its best to build up the colour gradually. It wont look much for the first couple of coats but
then it will start looking good. Allow 10 minutes between coats.
Step 8
With the final coats of colour applied, leave to dry for at least an hour, preferably in the sun outside
(once the surface is touch dry).
Once its completely dry, carefully check over it to make sure you have covered it all with paint. Make
sure you check carefully as you don't want to get it in the car to find you have missed a small area. So
take time make sure everything is covered thoroughly.
Step 9
Once you are happy with the coverage of the paint, the next step is the lacquer. Same as with the
painting: shake well, thin layers, building it up so that it covers the whole panel. The more you apply
the better the final finish will be, but don't drown it though!!
Step 10
Leave to dry completely; preferably overnight. It takes a lot longer than the paint to dry as its a lot
thicker. Make sure its rock hard before the next step.
Step 11
Use the 1200/1600 grit W&D to smooth the lacquer using copious soapy water. But I found that it
scratched the lacquer - although its not supposed to. So whether you do this is up to you, I didn't and
mine looks fine. Instead of rubbing the lacquer with the 1200 W&D I got a bottle of T-Cut and
polished up all the bits. If everything has gone to plan then you can put a big smile on your face as
you look forward to putting the bits back into you car.
Footnote - The only problem I can say I had was with the main centre console as the paint and primer
kept bubbling this is due to a very thin rubberised coating over the panel reacting with the solvent
in the paint. This happens where the sanding has perforated the coating and the solvent has gotten
underneath. So in this case the best option is to only very lightly sand the panel, degrease
thoroughly and apply primer/filler build up a several coats and then using (wet) 800W&D sand the
surface until it is perfectly smooth. Dont worry if it goes back to bare plastic, just let it dry and do a
few more coats. Once perfectly smooth continue from no.4 (above) with the primer coat.
Thanks to T520 SRI for the How To

How To.. Change Spark Plugs
Note - This How To uses a Z22SE, but the process is similar for all other petrol engines.
Step 1
Remove the engine cover its simply

held on by a few screws or just pulls
off, (you might need to remove the oil
filler cap first).
Step 2
Unclip the loom from the coil pack

you might need to use a small screw
driver to depress the retaining clip.
Keep the clip somewhere safe, until

you need to refit it!!

Step 3
Now remove the securing bolts on the

coil pack (circled red).
Step 4
Then working from both ends at the

same time, carefully waggle and pull the
coil pack out of the cylinder head and
away from the engine.
Once removed, place the coil pack

somewhere safe.

Step 5
Using a plug socket and extension

bar, unscrew and remove all 4 spark
plugs.
Note - A plug socket will have a

rubber retainer to grip the plug so it
can be withdrawn easily, whereas a
deep socket will not so its best to
use the right one!
Step 6
Push the new spark plug into the

socket, so that its gripped by the
retainer, and then carefully lower it
into the cylinder head.
Then screw it up hand tight do not

use a ratchet handle.
Note - Be very careful not to cross-

thread the plugs when you screw it
in, as aluminium heads can be easily
damaged.
Finally, using a torque wrench,

tighten to 25Nm (18 lbf ft) no
tighter!!
With all 4 plugs replaced (and tightened), refit the coil pack tightening the retaining bolts to 8Nm
(6 lbf ft)
Then refit the electrical connector (and retaining clip), and finally the engine cover and oil cap

How To.. Change the Pollen filter
Excessive misting of the front windscreen, and/or a musty stench is normally due to a clogged pollen
filter however its a simple job to replace it
Parts
Parts Required
Astra Mk4 Pollen Filter Part No: 13175553 (previously 90520689)
Tools required
T20 Torx bit/Screw driver

6mm Socket
Time taken:
30 minutes.
Step 1
To start with you will need to

remove your glovebox: there
are six T20 Torx screws to be
removed: 3 along the top edge
and 3 along the bottom
The 6th Torx screw is in the

centre of bottom edge of the
glovebox - its easier to undo
the bottom 3 screws with the
glovebox lid closed.
With all the screws removed,

pull the glovebox out slightly
and disconnect the interior light
and CD changer (if you have
one) - remember to have the
code handy for the CD, for
when you come to refit it
Thanks to Alfa GTV for the How To

Step 2
With the glovebox out of the

way, look into the glovebox
area and you will see two gold
coloured bolts on the right
hand side: these will both have
to be removed using a 6mm
socket to gain access to the
pollen filter.
Once the bolts have been

removed the area in yellow lifts
up almost like a cat flap (or it
can be unclipped) and remove
the old filter noting which
way round it is fitted.

Step 3
Then re-fit the new filter - the

correct way round!!
Once the new pollen filter is

installed, close/refit the flap put
the both bolts back in their
position
Then refit the glovebox

remembering to re-connect the
interior light, and recode the CD
changer (if fitted)
Job done!

How To.. Replace the Power Sounder
The power sounder can either be replaced or repaired the choice is down to the individual.
Repair instructions are given at the end of this How To
Step 1
Jack up the front near side, support on axle stands and
remove the road wheel.
Step 2
Remove the three plastic rivets on the rear of the wheel arch
liner (circled red on photo to right) you do this buy pushing
the center pin inwards using a small screwdriver, until they
pass right through. Be sure to retrieve the pins as these will
need to be replaced when refitting the rivets
Step 3
Fold back the arch liner and tuck it over the brake
disc (as shown) to allow easier access.
From this point onwards you must have you

ignition TURNED ON.
Thanks to coupe-turbo for the How To

Step 4
Inside the wheel are you will now see two T20 Torx
screws removed these and withdraw the plate from the
wheel arch.
Step 4
Disconnect and remove the old unit and install and
connect the new one - as you do this you should hear a
single beep.
Step 5
Refit the panel and replace the 2 torx screws,
Refit the inner arch, followed by the 3 plastic clips: which

look like this when you put the middle back in
Refit wheel, lower the car off of the jack and tighten the
wheel nuts to 110Nm (81lbf ft).

Repairing the power sounder
Parts Needed
2 x NC-M120 (3.6v) batteries for approx 11 delivered, from www.cellpacksolutions.com
Step a
Follow steps 1 to 4 above to remove the unit
Step b
The power sounder has a joint line all the way round it, use a thin-bladed knife to score this deeper
and hey-presto, it opens up.
Step c
Get some sandpaper to remove corrosion etc from the terminals. Fit in new batteries and then simply
re-seal power sounder with insulation tape, a glue gun or adhesive. Making sure it is fully watertight
Step d
Refit as per steps 4-5.

How To.. Remove the Pre
Pre--cat on a 2.2 (Z22SE)
Why do this Mod?

The pre-cat is only there to control emissions on start-up from cold, until the main cat gets up to
working temperature, after which time the main cat does all the emission control work and the pre-
cat just becomes a needless restriction. The MOT emission test must be done with the car at normal
operating temperature so removal of the pre-cat will not cause the car to fail the test, nor will it
render it illegal
Step 1 - Removing the heat shield
Working from inside the engine bay, remove the

engine cover to gain access to the back of the
engine (exhaust manifold).
Using a 10mm spanner, undo the three bolts that

hold the lower heat shield onto the manifold as
shown in the diagram (circled blue). Once all
three are out, gently remove the heat shield from
the retaining clip (circled red).
Step 2 - Jack the front of the car up and place

securely on axle stands or ramps. Remove
ignition key
UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES RE-INSERT THE

IGNITION KEY UNTIL THE JOB IS FINISHED.

Step 3 - Removing the cat assembly
Working under the car and using a

socket and extension bars undo the
three nuts securing the down-pipe to
the manifold.
Using an open ended spanner,

carefully remove the 2 oxygen
sensors one in front of the main cat
and one behind. These will probably
be rusted tight, but with a soaking in
WD40 and gentle persuasion with a
mallet on the end of the spanner
they should come undone. Once out,
just let them dangle, but be careful
not to damage them.
Remove bolt on the clamp between

the cat and centre section (shown
below) this will probably be rusted
tight, so again use plenty of WD40
and a bit of force. You may be lucky
and it will come undone relatively
easily, but if not, either cut or grind
off the bolt and replace with a new
one on reassembly. Once off, use a
large screw driver to lever open the
clamp slightly.
Give the exhaust joint a good

dousing with WD40, and remove the
two rubber hangers on the front of
the centre section to allow the cat
will now drop down slightly. The cat
assembly will be a tight (rusted) fit in
the centre section, so a lot a lot of
twisting and pulling is required to
separate the two parts. Keep
dousing, twisting back and forth and
pulling and it will eventually come
off.

Step 4 Removing the pre-cat
Lay the cat assembly down with the pre-cat on

the right this is the best position to minimise
any debris falling down the pipe and entering
(clogging) the main cat.
Drill a series of closely spaced 4-6mm holes

around the edge of the pre-cat (as shown
below). Use the drill on a low speed and it goes
through quite easily whereas a fast speed just
overheats the bit and blunts it very quickly.
Periodically inspect the drill and remove any
accumulated debris from the tip with a
screwdriver the drill will be very hot,
hot so be
careful and patient.
Once youve completed a full circuit of holes, change to a large drill (6-8mm) bit and re-drill alternate
holes, once again ensuring you go straight through the pre-cat - this should break through the sides
of the small holes and enable the pre-cat matrix to be removed. However some teasing out of
material with long-nose pliers/screwdrivers/chisels may be required
Using an old inch wood chisel or similar,

carefully scrape away any remaining material
from the edge of the pipe, and then finally give
it a quick once over with some coarse emery
cloth to remove the last of the material (a
Dremel and small grinding wheel will speed this
stage up). The finished article should look like
the photo below clean and smooth.
Once all trace of the pre-cat is removed from

the end of the pipe, upend the cat assembly
and tap/shake firmly to dislodge any material
from the pipe.
Finally, cover up the front oxygen sensor holes

and give the pipe a good vacuuming out to
remove all traces of dust and debris repeat
the shaking, tapping and vacuuming process
until all debris is clear.
Step 5 Reassembly is a reverse of the removal process but use some copper grease on the
manifold, pipe nuts and cat assembly pipe where it enters the centre section. Check alignment of the
exhaust before finally tightening up any of the nuts/bolts.
Thats it go for a test drive and feel the difference!!

How To.. Remove Rear Seats (All) & Panels (3dr & Coupe)
Tools needed
T40 Torx bit
T50 Torx bit
Torque wrench
Flat blade screwdriver
Step 1
Start by sliding both front seats as far forward as they will go,
and then either tilt (3dr/Coupe) or recline the backrest
forward (5dr), to give yourself room to operate in the back.
Lift the lower rear cushion so it stands vertically.
Locate the two metal hoops that hold the seat base to the
floor. Doing one side at a time, firmly push the lower edge of
the seat towards the rear of the car in the direction of the
arrow (shown right). It might take a few goes to get the
knack, but once youve mastered it, its a doddle.
Unclip the other side and remove the cushion form the car.
Step Two
Woking in the rear passenger compartment,

unbolt the bracket for the seat belt buckles
(T50).
The remove the two other bolts holding the

brackets down (all T40 & arrowed in red)
one locates the bracket to the body shell
and the other joins them both together.
Autosparks
Thanks to Autos parks for the How To
Step 3
Working from inside the boot, use a flat blade

screwdriver to prise out the plastic button bottom
outside corner of the seat back.
Then carefully fold back the felt trim to reveal two T40
Torx bolts remove both of these.
And then lift the bracket up and out of the slot on the
inner wheel arch a screwdriver might be useful here to
relieve the spring tension on the collar.
Do the same on the other side, if youre taking the entire

back seat out.
Step
tep 4
Finally remove the three T40 Torx

bolts from the rear of the centre
bracket and carefully lift the
backrests from the car.
Note: refit in the reverse of the above

- but it is best to fit the two outer
brackets to the seat backs prior to
installation. This way the whole
assembly will just drop back into the
slots.
Re-Torque the seatbelt bracket to

35nm/26lbf ft
Autosparks
Removing the Rear Panels
With the rear seat removed, simple grab the back

edge of the storage bin (as shown) and sharply pull
the panel away from the body shell.
The panel is held on with standard trim clips (as per

doorcards) and simply pops off.
Once one edge is lifted, work your way around the

panel until all the clips are out and lift the panel
away.
With the panel off the car, you may find that some
clips are still fastened to the body work just
carefully prise them out with a screwdriver (taking
care not to scratch the paint) and refit the to the
panel
When re-fitting the panels start with the edge along

the door frame (as shown left), taking care to line up
the clips correctly, and then firmly push the card on
to the body shell.
Work round the panel making sure that all clips are
pushed full home.
Autosparks
How To.. Refurbi
Refurbish damage
sh Painted Alloy Wheels (minor d only))
amage only
Note: The method used in this how to is for minor kerb damage and poor paint work only
1, Remove tyres from rim, cut of old valve

and remove any stick-on or tap-on wheel
weights.
2, Clean wheels thoroughly. I used Mr

Muscle Oven Cleaner because its cheap.
Then wash with really hot soapy water,
then rinse thoroughly. Before giving them
a quick wipe over with a j-cloth and some
clean water.
3. Attack the rim lip with 300grit, rub

away any corrosion and feather out using
a lighter grade paper. Finish off with 1000
grit. Use filler on any small
defects/damage, and sand off smooth
when cured
Clean again with clear non soapy water

and leave to dry. And finally wipe
thoroughly with degreaser wipes of white
spirit to remove any traces of silicone/oily
residue.
4. Spray wheel with 3 or 4 coats of primer.

Leave sufficient drying time between coats
and leave to dry.
Lightly sand the wheel with 1000 grit

W&D used wet. Feather it back to leave a
smooth surface. Clean and re-apply primer
if necessary. Then rub back with 1000 grit.
Thanks to SimonP for the How To

5, Once the wheels are clean once again,
you can apply first coat of base coat silver.
Spray even light coats as metallic particles
weigh paint down, so if you spray it too
heavily, it can give the appearance of
looking darker in patches.
Give around 3 or 4 good coats, making

sure all area are evenly covered.
6, Leave to dry for about 30 minutes

before going over with the lacquer again
using light even strokes. Doesnt matter if
its fine and doesnt give a shiny finish as
you achieve finish when cutting back.
Give it plenty of light coats again with

good drying intervals.
Leave for about 12 - 24 hours to semi cure

before prepping for finishing.
Get 1000 or even 1200grit (again, best

done wet) and rub very lightly and evenly
over the new paintwork in a swirly
motion. Dont press too hard, but then
again, dont press too lightly.
7, After covering the whole wheel, youre now ready to cut it back using a cutting paste. I used G3
and applied in a similar action to the sanding. Be a bit firmer with the pressure and you can feel the
paste working away to smooth off the lacquer even more.
Wipe off with clean dry cloth. The paintwork although very flat and matt in appearance is now
smooth and flatted back.
8, You can now start with the polish. I just used Autoglym super resin polish. I polished each wheel
twice used in quite an abrasive action, but not too much. Buff up and it should leave the

paintwork with a glassy finish. If it still looks a little dull, then keep polishing and you'll get a great
shine.
9, Leave the wheel for at least 24 hours (from final coat) before having the tyre refitted.

Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra-Sport take NO
responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you
are unsure how to do something leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty
might be invalidated if this modification is done.
Thanks To Alan Mk4 for the 'How-To' :
Replacing dash and centre console bulbs for LEDS?

Time needed; allow 4 hours.
Tools needed; 8 x LEDs in Osram holders 1 x Single LED without holder,
Long nosed pliers, Star head screwdriver, large and small headed screwdriver, and
Patience!!
1. Use the small headed screwdriver to remove the small panel in between the gear gaiter
and the ashtry.Slide the screwdriver down the side and just lift it out.
2. Open the ashtry, take out the inside sleeve. Remove the lighter surround. It (just clicks
out) Next pull down the flap at the top to reveal the 4 screws. Remove these and putt in a
safe place. The whole ashtray and surround will now pull out, be careful!! It is attached on
the left of the lighter surround and should ease out. It should now be hanging out with the
wires attached to the back of the lighter.
3. Disconect both wires. The smaller connection holds the Bulb for the lighter surround,
pull it out and replace with the single LED. Make sure you turn on your lights to make sure
it works before you continue.
4. Next you must take out any head unit and the cage its in. You will see 2 screws inside
the opening that are holding on the centre console, remove these carefully. Make sure
they dont drop down!
5. Now is the time to remove the console. Hold on to the bottom and slightly pull it
towards you. Get the large headed screwdriver and slide it between the console and the
dash just above and to the left of the MFD display.DONT force it in, just try and make a
small gap and get it in. As you ease the console upwards try and prise the console away
using the screwdriver it should give way and release itself.
6. Disconect the large connector behind the MFD display. It is a held in place with a clip
that looks like a mouse trap. You will understand when you come to it : )
7. You will now see all the wires for the Heater controls and the Hazard light. There is not
much room to work here so just take your time.Dissconect the large yellow connector first,
press down the small clip on the top and it should release it. Next you will have to remove
the wires from there plastic holes in the heater control arms. Use your long nose pliers to
un-hook them out of the holes. The wires are inside rubber sleeves which have plastic clips
on them, these are clipped into small holders on the console(you will see what I mean
when you get there).Take the plastic clips out of there holders and all you should have
now is the last small connector and the hazard switch.
8. Disconect the small black connector. The front of the hazard switch should
Pop out using the small headed screwdriver. Switch the lights on and prise it off from
underneath. Turn it off, the whole connector should now come out with a bit of
encouragement.
9. Now you have access the the back of the Centre console!! First you can change the
bulbs in the MFD display using the long nose pliers. Take it easy and try not to rush.
REMEMBER THE LEDS ONLY WORK ONE WAY!! It is a 50/50 chance of them working the
first time. After you put them in reconnect the clock and turn on your lights to make sure
they work. If they dont remove the connector tw ist the holder 180 degrees and try
again.Taadaaa!!!! This is what all the work is for. Trick lights: )
10. Now change the 2 bulbs in the heater controls. Same as before, plug in the large
yellow connector and see if they work. If not twist and they will work.PLEASE make sure
you know they are all working before you start putting it all back together.
11. Now is the hard part! Putting it all back together again. First reconnect the MFD display
and the Hazard switch. Then the large yellow connector for the Heater controls. This is the
tricky bit. Try putting the car into 1st gear and take off the Handbrake
, this will help you lie down so you can see the underneath of the console better. Have you
long nose pliers ready. Start by the end wires farthest away from you. Using the pliers
grab the wires about 1 inch from the end and hook them back into there holes in the
plastic arms. You will know which wire goes into which hole as there is not much give in
them. One is a wire and one has a barrel shape on the end that just sits in a holder. When
you have the wires in the holes the rubber sleeves need to go back in the clips. Put the
barrel one into the clip first by sliding it in. Then the other sleeve clips in on top of it. Both
clips in the one holder. Next do the other wire and clip its sleeve into the holder.
12. The rest is now a reversal of the removal. Just put the screws, headunit and ashtray
back in.
To..
How T Re--trim Door Cards
o.. Re
Parts Required.
Material (alcantara in this case),

Scissors,
Spray glue,
Newspaper/Brown paper,
Old credit cards
And lots of patience!!!
Step 1
Cut a template using brown paper or newspaper allowing at least 1 inch around (2.5cm) the edges.
Once template has been cut out, lay it on top of your chosen material (alcantara) and cut the material
out, see below.
Thanks to Darren SXi 1.8 for the How To

Step 2
Now lay the cut out alcantara on top of the door card and roughly feel around the edges allowing
you to centre it up as best as possible, (see below). Note - I have left loads of spare material at the
end.
Step 3
Now slowly start to tuck the
edges in using a credit/debit
card, starting from the top and
working down (I found it easier
that way - but I would also try
from the centre working
outwards). Do not use the glue
at this stage.
stage
The main area you should

concentrate on is by the grab
handle (front door cards the
rears are much easier). You will,
at this stage, need to remove/
cut away surplus material
around the handle area - take
your time over this.
Once you have a rough idea as

to where the material tucks you
can start to glue. The advantage
of spray glue is that it spreads evenly - you will need to mask all areas where glue is not needed using
newspaper. Spray the glue on the door card first, and then a small amount on the material, this
allows a good solid bond between the two when they meet.
Once glue is applied, start from the middle of the area and rub towards the edges making sure no
creases or folds have been made! The glue is extremely strong and difficult to remove!
Step 4
Once all is glued and tucked, look at the door card in natural light and around for any mistakes (you'll
get some, don't you worry!), check around edges and by the grab handles.
Hopefully it should look something like this

How To.. Remove the Front Strut (MK4)
Step 1
Apply handbrake, jack the car up, support
on axel stands and remove the road wheel.
Unclip the brake hose and any electrical

connectors from the bracket on the front
side of the strut.
Remove the nut holding the roll bar link to

the strut use an open ended spanner on
the flats on the ball joint to stop it rotating
whilst you undo the nut.
Remove the two bolts attaching the strut to

the hub and note which way the bolts go.
Support the hub on an axle stand, bricks or

similar.
Step2
With someone holding the strut from
underneath, pull the black cap off the top
mounting and undo the nut visible
underneath. You may need to use a small
spanner on the central rod to stop it
rotating as you undo the main nut
Once the nut is off, the strut will simply lift

out from inside the wheel arch.
Thanks to SmellyTofu for the How-To

Replacing the spring
Warning - if you don't know what you are doing - STOP. Springs contain a lot of potential energy
even in a partially compressed state and can easily injure the unwary.
Hold the strut in a vice or similar, just so it is secure not too tight though as it may damage the
shock absorber
Attach the spring compressors to opposite sides of the spring try to get the hooks as near to the
ends of the spring as possible.
Slowly compress each side, a bit at a time (try to keep them even) until the spring becomes loose in
the strut - i.e. you can jiggle it freely).
Using a deep socket 18mm (or spanner), undo the nut that holds the top hat again you may have to
resort to a spanner on the piston rod end to stop it rotating. The bolt is reasonably tight, so it may
take some persuading.
Remove the top hat and all the rubbers on the existing strut noting the relative positions of all the
parts and then carefully lift away the spring.
Remove the old strut off the vice.
Place the new strut in the vice and replace all rubbers and spring (still in the compressors) onto the
new strut. If replacing the spring, this will need to be compressed before fitting, and ensure it is
fitted the correct way round.
Replace the top mount and tighten the nut to the specified torque (see below)
Make sure the spring is in correct position by checking that the base of the spring fits against the
marking on the strut, and that the top mount aligns correctly.
Carefully undo the spring compressors little by little on each side to keep it even.
Reverse the removal instruction to refit the strut to the car.
Torque Wrench Settings

Anti- roll bar link to strut 65Nm 48lbf ft
Strut upper mountings 55Nm 41lbf ft
Strut to hub carrier
Stage1 50Nm 37lbf ft
Stage2 90Nm 66lbf ft
Stage3 angle-tighten 45
Stage4 angle-tighten 15
Road wheels 110Nm 81lbf ft
How To.. Replace Rear Shock absorbers
Step 1
Note: Because of the design of the

rear suspension, you should ONLY do
one side at a time
Loosen wheels bolts with the car on a

firm level surface
Chock the front wheels, jack the car

up and support on axle stands.
Remove the wheels.
Step 2
Notice the 2 nuts that need to be removed -The top nut is

15mm and the bottom nut is 17mm, however on some
cars these bolts are E18 and E20 male Torx blots
respectively.
Place a small jack under the trailing arm and raise it

slightly (10-20mm is enough) to avoid any undue strain in
the trailing arm
Undo the bottom nut holding the shocks first, and then
undo the top nut.
Refitting is reversal of removal - but ensure the nuts are

tightened to the correct torque
Top Nut 90Nm 66lbf ft

Bottom Nut 110Nm 81lbf ft
Wheel Bolts 110Nm 81lbf ft
Repeat the procedure for the other side.

How To.. Change Side Repeater Lights
Step 1
Carefully ease a small pick/screwdriver
between the indicator and the
bodywork - insert from the front on a
MK4 and the rear on a MK3. (You can
unclip it from behind by removing the
inner arch liner but that takes too long
and is a dirty job).
At the rear of the indicator is a clip: you

will need to push this in slightly for the
indicator lens to pop out.
Once the unit it out, it is a good time to

clean and polish the area under the old
indicator lens.
Thanks to NRJ for the How To

Step 2
On some indicator lenses you will need to change the standard white bulb to an orange emitting
bulb, this is because some lenses do not come with the orange diffuser built into the unit. Note: An
orange emitting light is required for an MOT pass.
Some of the bulb holders pull out of the lens, and some twist out standard VX ones twist out. The
standard bulb is a push in type (501) in the holder itself. Once the bulbs are fitted test everything
works & progressing to Step 3
Step3
Push/Twist the bulb holder back in the new unit and then clip the unit back into the wing
Make sure the lens clicks securely into place. Job done!!
Thanks to NRJ for the How To
How To.. Fit OE Side Sills
Tools needed
Hammer
Small punch or Screwdriver
Pliers
A mate for an extra pair of hands (not essential)
Parts Needed
10 x Skirts clips 9174457* or 90560744*
12 x push pin rivets - 90087290
2 x small push pin rivets - 90262367
2 x white clips 90481595 - (For coupe/GSi skirts)
*Note - there are two types of Skirt Clips clip on or bolt on respectively, and its impossible to tell which
ones youll have until you remove the original skirts. So check first before you buy the wrong ones, as they
are not interchangeable.
Also all the clips will most probably be destroyed removing the sills so youll need a full set of the above to
fit news ones
Step 1
I personally jacked the car up as its low
and I couldnt see the pins underneath.
I put the jack on the jacking point used on

the 4-poster lifts so it didnt get in the way
of the skirts.
Have a look underneath the car and youll

notice 6 push pin rivets on the underside
of the sill.
Push the middle pin up through the sill: you

will lose the centre but itll drop out sooner
or later when driving.
Open the doors to get the lip underneath.
Grab the underside edge of the sill, and

you can then just pull the skirts off.
Thanks to norm29 for the How To
Step 2
Take the broken clips off noting which way round
they are fitted there are little arrows on them to
help you.
Recover the small white clip from the front end (if
fitted)
Whilst the sills are off its a good idea to clean all
the accumulated dirt off and give the paintwork a
wax and polish
Step 3
Refit the plastic clips onto the sill, making sure they
are the correct way round.
Remove the rubber drip strip from the top edge of

old sill (if fitted) and fit it to the new still
Step 4
With the door open, line up the skirt and starting
from one end, simply push it on, making sure it
clicks into all the clips.
Once done, refit all the push pin rivets to the

underside (not forgetting the small one in the rear
wheel arch)
Note - If fitting coupe sills to a hatch, all the push pin

rivets are in the same place except for the front
cap shown here. You will need to use some araldite
or tigerseal glue (or similar) to hold it in place as
well as the two small white clips.
Easy, will take no more than 30mins both sides :)
Thanks to norm29 for the How To

How To.. Fit Mk3 Stalks to a Mk1
Parts Needed
Firstly you need the indicator stalks and plugs from the Mk3 Astra, and make sure you have plenty of wire
spare on the wiper stalk as this will be need to be wired it in.
Procedure
The plugs have code numbers and letters on the back so fitting is simply a case of matching wire to code.
These are as follows: -
The wiper stalk

N.B. Where * appears see below.
Code Mk3 stalk Mk1 Loom

31 Brown wire - this wire is not used (tape out of the way)
WH Black/Grey Black/Red
53h Black/Yellow Blue*
53b White White
W Black/Red Black/Red*
53 Yellow Yellow
53a Black/Yellow Black/Yellow
53e Blue Blue
J Black/Yellow Black/Yellow
*In the case of 53h and W on your Mk1 loom, you have two Blue wires and two Black/Red ones as
well. Before joining in these wires, check the corresponding code number on your mk1 stalk to make
sure the right wire goes to the correct terminal
The Indicator Stalk
This will just plug straight in! You can even use the original Mk1 plug.
The rubber gaiters on the end of the stalks will fit if you modify your lower steering column cowling. Cut
at least a 4cm gap out and this will ensure the rubber fits snugly and doesnt cause the cowling to
spring open under the pressure of the rubber.
Refit the new stalks and put your steering cowling back together and admire!

How To.. C
Change
hange the O
Original Wheel
riginal Vauxhall Steering Wheel on the Astra Mk4.
Tools required:
Set of male Torx keys or T15 & T30 torx sockets.

E20 female torx socket and ratchet or T-Bar.
Torque wrench, not totally necessary but safer if used.
Loctite thread lock or similar.
Step 1 - Park the car with the steering wheel centred. Leave the key out of the ignition and leave for
at least 1 min but to be really safe 15mins. I left mine parked up overnight in the correct position just
in case.
UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES RE-

RE-INSERT THE IGNITION KEY UNTIL THE JOB IS FINISHED.
Step 2 - Use the

T30 Torx key and
remove the 2 Torx
screws located
under the wheel,
at the base of the
side spokes.
See photo for

location.
Thanks to Oddjob for the How-To

Step 3 - Lift up the airbag and disconnect the airbag wiring. There's a little yellow pull on the
connector, just pull this out & down and the connector will pull away from the airbag. Remove the
airbag; take great care when handling the airbag and keep the badge facing away from you at all
times if possible. Put the airbag in a SAFE place with the badge uppermost.
Step 4 - Using the E20

socket remove the torx
bolt holding the wheel
onto the steering column.
It's not very tight so little
real force is needed.
Disconnect the lower
multi-plug connector, see
photo. Grab wheel and
jiggle from side to side
whilst pulling upward. It's
not usually on very hard
and comes off fairly easily.
Thread the 2 wiring blocks
through the upper square
hole as the wheel comes
off.
Step 5 - Using the T15 Torx

socket remove the 4
screws holding the remote
radio controls onto the
wheel. Take a second to
study the wiring routing
before removing the RRC
buttons and horn buttons.
Assuming you'll either be
using an Irmscher wheel or
another Vauxhall wheel
replace the RRC controls
and horn buttons on the
new wheel and route the
wires so they are as in next
photo.

Step 6 - Refit the new
wheel feeding the 2 wiring
blocks through the square
hole and also ensuring
that the indicator
cancelling disc, see photo,
locates in the square hole
above the steering column
hole. In photo you can see
a small white arrow on the
disc which should be
pointing at the pip on the
steering column shroud.
Also make sure the mark
on the steering column
and the new steering
wheel align.
Step 7 - Coat the steering

column Torx bolt with
thread lock and refit and
tighten bolt to 18ft/lbs
using a torque wrench. If
no wrench is available just
make sure it's nice and
tight. You may need
someone to hold the
wheel whilst your
tightening the bolt but you
can do it single handed if
needed. Reconnect the
lower multi-plug
connector.

Step 8 - Re-connect the
airbag wiring and ensure
the locking tag is re-
inserted in the wiring
block. Locate in position
and re-insert and tighten
the 2 T30 Torx screws
located underneath.
Provided you've connected
all the wiring blocks it
should now be safe to re-
insert the ignition key. Just
in case it's advisable to do
this from outside the car
Step back and admire your

new pride and joy.

How To.. Fit a Strut Brace (MK4)
Step 1
First, unclip the fuse box from the retaining brackets and carefully cut off the lug thats on the side
facing you, this has to done to allow the fuse box to fit properly.
Then gently ease the fuse box forward, (you might have to loosen the positive lead connection on
the battery as the cable is quite stiff) so that the rear clip fits into the front of the bracket on the car.
Depending on the make of brace some modification the relay box may be needed to make it fit
correctly. However there are numerous ways to do this, and none are applicable in all cases.
Step 2
Remove the black plastic caps on the top of the
both shock absorbers, undo the nuts and remove
the top cups from the suspension struts.
the
Thanks to Pete for th e How To
Step 3
Position the strut brace on the car and refit the
black cups and tighten up the nuts
Make sure that the front wheels are pointing

dead ahead and then mark and carefully drill
through the lugs with an 8.5mm drill.
Its then best to paint over the bare metal on the

inner wing to prevent corrosion.
Step4
Now comes the tricky bit: fitting the bolts. You
may be lucky and only have to jack the car up,
and remove the wheels to be able to secure the
nuts inside the wheel arch.
However, if this proves impossible - with the car

still jacked up, youll need to remove the top cups
again and let the whole suspension drop a few
inches. This will give you plenty of room to get a
spanner in the gap, from the wheel arch. Once
both bolts are tight refit the top cups (and wheel)
and lower the car. Do the other side.
Torque Wrench settings

Strut upper mounting 55Nm/41lbf ft
Road wheels 110Nm/81lbf ft
the
Thanks to Pete for th e How To
How To.. Clean a Throttle Body
Note this how to was written for an

an X18XE1 engine, but the process is similar for all other engines
Why clean it?

If your car has trouble idling when pulling up to junction etc then most of the time a dirty/clogged
throttle body will be the cause.
When to clean it?

It is good practice to do this every time you service your car, especially if you do a lot of miles or drive
in traffic a lot.
Tools:
Flat bladed Screw Driver or 7mm Socket (depending on jubilee clip type)
10mm spanner
T30 Torx bit
Clean Cloth
Carb Cleaner or similar product
Step 1
With the engine cold, start by removing

the negative lead from the battery using
the 10mm spanner, (this is good practice
for all car engine and electrical work),
and remember to remove the ignition
key first and do not replace it until the
work is finished.
Next, remove the engine cover by

removing the two T30 Torx Screws
holding the top of the engine cover
down. Then remove the oil filler cap and
pull the engine cover from the rear
towards you. Replace the oil filler cap
immediately.
This gives good access to the throttle

body.
Thanks to Pardoe16v for the How To

Step 2
Use the flat bladed screw driver, or 7mm

socket, undo the jubilee clip securing the air
feed hose to the throttle body.
Step 3
Then remove the air hose from the Throttle

body and move it out the way, taking care
not to damage the hose or put any strain on
the harness to the AFM. If in doubt, unplug
the AFM!!
Now you can get at the inside of the

throttle body - As you can see they get very
messy!!!
When the engine is on tick over, air is

drawn in through a small gap at the edge of
the butterfly valve (the brass circle). If the
small gap becomes blocked by build up of
carbon and dirt etc then the engine cant
breathe on tick over, so it tries to stall!

Step 4
Using the carb cleaner and a clean lint-free

rag, carefully clean all the mess out, pull
open the butterfly very gently - especially
ones which are drive-by -wire as this works
via an electric motor.
Press down the side nearest to you and

pull up the side furthest from you as
shown below.
Clean in and around the throttle body and

the rim of the butterfly. MAKE SURE YOU
DO NOT PUSH ANY DIRT DOWN INTO
THE MANIFOLD!
If the Throttle Body is particularly dirty, it

is advisable to remove it and clean it off
the car
When youve finished it should look nice

and clean like this!
Reassemble the air hose feed and engine

cover. Reconnect the battery, and
reprogram any radio codes/clock etc
You should notice straight away the

throttle response.

How To.. Fit a Traction Control Switch
You must have Traction Control fitted as standard to undertake this mod It will not add it to a car
that does no
nott already have TC.
TC.
Parts Required
Traction Control Switch - 90437527
Traction Control Switch Loom - 9270597
Trim Panel (Black) - 90437593 (single hole) or 90437561 (three hole)
Trim Panel (Gun Metal Grey) -13129777 (single hole) or 13129779 (three hole)
Step one
Remove the ashtray - will need to use torx bits and remove the 2 screws holding ashtray in. Then
remove small cover around cigarette lighter (it just pulls off). The ashtray isnt the easiest thing to get
out, but do it carefully and youll be fine. Disconnect the wires on the rear of the lighter.
With the ashtray out of the way, you can now get your fingers round the back of the blank TC panel
and pop it out.
Now remove the panel above the pedals there are two -turn clips on the front edge and two
white lever down clips on the rear.
Step 2
Open the bonnet.
Position yourself so that you can look

up inside the back of the dash and
locate the spare grommet that the TC
loom feeds through. (See photo right).
When youve found it - remove it using

your finger or a screw driver.
Now route the loom from the back of

the TC panel area, through the back of
the centre console, through the area
above the pedals and feed it out
through the grommet hole and into
the engine bay. making sure its tidy
and doesnt catch on anything.
Thanks to Smelly Tofu, Lightning Coupe & gazza1591 for the How To
Its easier to carefully pull the loom through from the engine bay side. When its pulled through
sufficiently, fit the grommet into the hole, ensuring it seals correctly all the way round.
Step 3
Remove the cover from the relay box, and using a screwdriver to depress the clips (see below),
carefully unfasten all the relays and lift the loom out and tuck it safely out of the way.
From this point onwards remove the keys from the ignition and do not attempt to switch on any
electrics or start the car or you will need a trip to a dealer!!!
Next, you need to remove the relay box to gain

access to the multi-connector underneath. There
one clip to depress on each side of the box. The
photo (right) show the box removed from the car to
aid in finding their location.
Just use a screwdriver against the bump on each

side and carefully lever the box out of the bracket.
Step 4
Locate the ABS multi-connector under the relay
box bracket, and using a flat blade screwdriver
push inwards on the purple lines you see on
the drivers side of the ABS plug itself. You
dont have to force it, as it moves fairly easy: but
do both sides evenly.
Once it is pushed through a little, feel for the

handle on the plug, sticking out under the
wiring - slide it out and then plug will lift off
easily
Remove the weather cover from the top of the

plug; its also best to remove the cable tie from
the loom at this point.
Step 4
Locate the correct pin, depending on your car.
Traction control only use Pin 31 or Traction control and EPS use in 25
Pin 31 is located at the

back corner (drivers
side) if there is a wire
there already, youll
have to splice the TC
loom into that wire. Its
best to use a soldered
connection and protect
it with heat shrink
tubing and insulation
tape.
Assuming there is no
wire there already (the
majority of cases), use a
stout pin or similar to
carefully ease out the
white blanking plug.
Step 4
Route the TC loom across the back of the
engine bay, using zip ties to attach it to the
bonnet release cable.
Then push the pin connector on the loom into

the relevant hole on the multi-connector. It
requires quite a bit of force to push it home so
be careful not to damage it.
Once thats secure, refit the weather cover, and

zip tie to the ABS loom, and refit the multi-
connector, by sliding the purple catch back in.
Refit the relay box to the bracket, reinstall the
relays and refit the lid.
Step 5
Now take the other wire on the loom (ring
connector) and attach it to the earth point on
the passenger side inner wing. Its best to give
all mating surfaces a quick clean up with some
fine wet & dry (used dry) to make sure you get a
good connection.
When thats done, you can close the bonnet

and move back inside the car.
Step 6
Splice the short grey wire (on the TC loom) into
the grey/yellow wire on the cigarette lighter
loom, using a connector of your choice be it
crimp, solder or chocolate block (as in the
photo). This will light the switch up with the
headlights/dash lights.
Once thats done, fit the switch to the TC panel,

and connect the loom plug to the back.
You can now test it all works switch the ignition on and wait for the lights on the dash to go out.
Press the TC switch When the warning light comes ON under the trip meter reset button, then
traction control is now switched OFF. Pressing the button again will switch TC back ON (and the
light OFF).
Assuming all is OK refit the TC panel to the centre console, and then put back the ashtray
(remembering to connect up the cigarette lighter in the process), and the under-dash panel.
How To.. Fit 5 Screen in a Sat Nav Console
Parts Required
Any of the following Sat Nav centre Consoles. I used the matt chrome one.
Sat Nav centre console in matt chrome - 13117931 - 13.10
Sat Nav centre console in black - 9229371 - 45.47
Sat Nav centre console in gunmetal - 9196588 - 98.11
5 TFT Colour Portable TV (Maplins) - code L69AU - 79.99
Step 1 - Preparing the console

Remove the bracket from the back of the
console - I used a soldering iron to melt the
4 spot welds whilst lifting the bracket.
Thanks to Pecky for the How To

Once removed, file down the fixings so that they
are level.
Remove the 2 foam pads as they will stop the

screen fitting flush.
Cut the bracket which has been removed as it

will be re-fixed in the next step.
It doesnt need to be too neat.
Re-fix the bracket to the centre console using

superglue or hot glue.
The 2 cut-outs in the centre of the bracket will

act as a guide. This will act as a support to the
screen when it is fixed later.

Step 2 - Preparing the TFT Screen
Remove all the screws from the back of the
screen and pull the aerial out.
Carefully remove the rear of the case.
Remove the 2 wires which are connected to

the back.
Lift the green circuit board slightly. Remove

the following
Unplug the connector from the buttons

to the circuit board.
Unplug the connector from the screen
to the circuit board.
Remove the ribbon connector between
the screen & circuit board. Push the
brown retaining bar up to do this.
De-solder the black earth cable
between the screen & circuit board.
Cut the black & red cables which go to
the speaker.
Remove the 2 brackets which hold the screen

into the case. The screen module can now be
removed from the case.

The IR receiver needs to be moved so that the
screen can be used with the remote control.
This is critical as I will not be using the original
buttons.
Step 3 - Fitting the TFT Screen

You need to decide where you want to place
your IR receiver. I located mine to the top left
of the screen as in the photo below.
Place a cardboard packer on the support

frame; this will help align the screen at the
bottom.
With this in place the screen can be lined up

horizontally with the hole at the front of the
console.
Once happy, glue the screen into place.

Glue the IR receiver into place using some hot
glue.
The circuit board can now be plugged back in.

Plug in the cables in the following order:
1. The ribbon cable - Push the brown bar up so

the ribbon can fit in easily, and then pull the
bar down to hold it.
2. The white & pink cables with the white plug

on the left hand side.
3. Re-solder the short black earth cable which

was removed earlier.
It should now look like this.
The outer case needs trimming down to

enable it to fit at the back of the console.

Fit the case over the circuit board and glue
into place.
It's now ready for fitting into the car.

How To.. Fit Total Closure to an Astra G
Parts/tools needed
Total Closure Module

Screwdrivers T20 Torx & Small Flathead
Soldering Iron & Solder
Wire Strippers
Insulating Tape
Sharp Knife
10mm spanner/socket
Cost: Approx 10 unit available off eBay (various sellers)
Can you fit Total Closure?
These units can only be fitted if, when locking the car turn the key towards the back of the car then
hold the key in that position for approximately five seconds and the windows go up. If not then this
kit cant be fitted.
Step 1:
To remove the kick panel, prise out the cap

as shown (right) and remove the screw by
using a T20 Torx driver, and gently pull back
the door seal in the area of the panel.
The next bit requires patience, as the kick

panel is quite fiddly to remove - some
people remove the bonnet release catch to
make things easier: however I managed to
remove the panel without.
Thanks to dodger for the How To

Once the panel is removed you should see the Central Locking and Electric Window Module.
Step 2
Looking at the Central Locking module there is a 24pin connector on the left and a 12pin on the
right. Within the 24pin connector there should be a BLUE wire with a BLACK Stripe - this the
Deadlocking activation wire. Connect the BLUE to this wire.
BLUE Wire
with BLACK
24pin
Plug 12pin
Plug
Step 3
On the same connector there should be a BROWN wire

with a BLACK stripe or a YELLOW wire with a RED Stripe,
depending on what model and year you car is. This is the
wire that when activated closes the electric windows.
The position of the appropriate wire is shown in the photo

(right).
Brown wire
connects
here

Step 4
Connect the RED power lead to the large RED

Wire that goes to the 12pin plug as shown in the
diagram below.
As with all the connections I opted not to use the

Scotch Blocks as this type of connection can be
unreliable, so I striped the sheath on the wire and
soldered the closure wires to them. As shown
with the power lead (right). Red Power
Lead
Cover all joints with insulating tape.
Step 5
Connect the Black earth lead to the earth stud

(Shown right)
Earth Stud
Step 6
Now open the windows, step out of the car and shut the door, press the remote control to lock and
alarm then within 10 seconds press the lock button to deadlock and after 2 seconds the windows
should start to close.
If it all works, give every thing a final once over, tuck the total closure module safely out of the way,
then replace the kick panel and drivers door seal.
Job Done.

How To.. Fit a Vectra C Inlet Pipe
Why do This Mod?

The standard inlet cross section is quite small and restrictive to airflow entering the air box. This mod
replaces the pipe with a larger one off a Vectra C diesel, which will increase airflow and make the
engine more responsive, and may liberate a few BHP in the process especially when done in
conjunction with an aftermarket panel filter, and a de-restricted airbox (see other Astra-Sport How
Tos for further information)
Part numbers.
Main Pipe 9177099
Adaptor to Airbox 9177104
Tools required
An adjustable spanner.
Junior Hacksaw.
No.20 Torx bit (star shaped)
Flat bladed screwdriver.
A couple of small self tapping
screws (plus a small drill)
Step 1
Before removing anything off of your car, remove
both mounting brackets from the top of the
Vectra C inlet, using a junior hacksaw. Try and cut
as close as possible to the pipe, without
damaging it leave a stub of a few millimeters,
parallel to the top surface of the pipe
Step 2
Unbolt one of the jubilee clips holding the air
pipe and un-clip all the clips/screws holding the
air box together.
Then unclip the sensor at the back of the air box,

and any pipes attached to the side. This allows
you to lift off the top of the air box up, out of the
way.
Then by pulling forward the lower half of the air box it comes away from its mountings. Remove from
car.

Step 3
Remove both torx screws from the slam panel and unclip the 2 clips holding in your standard inlet
pipe
Using a large flat bladed screw driver, inserted between the underside of the slam panel and the top
of the standard pipe, prise the mounting clips off the original inlet pipe. This can be a bit fiddle, but
with a bit of force the will come off.
Remove the standard pipe from the car. This can be difficult, especially on the 2.2, as there is very
little room behind the radiator. Removing the offside headlight greatly improves the available space.
Step 4
Offer up the Vectra C pipe into the correct
position. Then slide it over towards your
battery.
Fit the adaptor tubing to the inlet pipe and

twist it (just under 90degs) towards you so
that the "lug" is nearer the front of the car.
This is necessary due to the difference in
layout between the Vectra and Astra. It is
wise but not essential to secure the two
parts together with a zip tie, once the
installation is complete
Step 5
Refit the lower half of your air box, and
locating the inlet pipe the inlet hole. This is
very fiddly but with patience it will fit!
Hold the pipe in the correct position under

the slam panel and drill a small hole into the
pipe using the original hole as a guide and
fit a self tapping screw. Then repeat for the
other small hole.
Give everything a check over to ensure

everything is secure, and refit the top of the
air box, remembering to refit any hoses or
sensors.

How To.. Remove Side Heater Vents and Headlight Switch
Tools needed:
T15 Torx screwdriver

3 small flat-blade screwdrivers.
The Nearside vent.
1. Adjust the vent so its facing at its lowest point
2. Using a thin screwdriver, inserted down the

side of the vent, carefully prise the vent from the
sides to help free it
3. You will see it come loose and should be able

to pull it out of the housing.
Thanks to d dave for the How To

4. Now you will be able to see 2 torx screws:
undo them - being careful not to drop them
down the heater duct.
5. Once theyre undone, you need to remove

the glove box by undoing the 6 torx screws (3
on the top edge and 3 on the bottom) or you
could just undo the top 3 and angle it forward
so you could get to the final torx screw for the
vent surround.
6. Once all three are undone, the vent

surround will lift out easily.
The Offside Vent

Vent and Headlight Switch
1. Follow steps 1-3 from above to remove the

vent.
2. Turn the light switch on to the 1st notch

(sidelights) then pull it out so the interior light
comes on.

3. Using a thin screwdriver, insert it in the hole
at the bottom of the switch and push up on it to
release the knob
4. Now that the switch is out of the way, you

should see a metal prong on either side of
where the knob was.
5. Using 2 small flat ended screwdrivers, insert

them into the prongs to release the control
unit. At this stage use another screwdriver to
carefully help persuade the unit to slide out

13. Once the unit is out you can undo the 3 torx
screws holding the surround in place.
14. Carefully remove this surround and release

the wiring from the rear of the surround for the
lighting control unit: it should just slide off.
Refitting is just the reverse.

How To.. WhiteLine Anti-Roll Bar (MK4)
Tools needed
13mm (long Reach) 14mm & 18mm sockets
15mm & 18mm spanner
10mm drill
Torque Wrench
Grease
Step 1 - Installing rear brackets

The brackets fit on to the bolt that holds
the trailing arm on to the chassis. You'll
probably need to soak the nut with WD40
or penetrating oil, as it'll be seized up solid.
Remove nut and install bracket as per

picture. These should be as level as
possible.
When happy, re-torque the nut to 90nm

(66lbf ft), then a further 60, then finally a
further 15
Note: only ever tighten the axel nuts with the car at normal ride height doing so with the car jacked
up (i.e. suspension hanging) will alter the relationship between the body shell and axel and put
unnecessary strain in the rubber bush!!
Thanks to ZS and Oddjob for the How To

Step 2 - Install Spring Brackets
This is where you're supposed to remove
wheels, dampers and springs. You might
not need to do this, depending on the tools
to hand
Drill out the holes in the spring turret from

below. I used an 8mm drill, then a 9mm
drill, then a 10mm drill, only due to the
10mm drill bit being blunter than a blunt
thing. I prefer drilling in small stages
anyway, as it makes a neater hole.
At this point you may need to jack the car

up one side at a time using either a trolley jack or standard jack using the standard rear jacking point.
Otherwise the long 10mm bolt won't fit down through the hole as the rubber bump stop is in the way.
Jacking one side at a time allows the bolt to drop in freely.
Bolt bottom bracket on as shown - it'll only go on one way. Use one of the two massive washers on top of
the spring turret, as shown.
Step3. Fit the ARB to rear brackets

Grease the polybush, and while a willing
(willingness optional) helper holds the bar
up, bolt on to the rear brackets. It's not
important to line things up at this point, as
the grease will allow easy sideways
movement.
Ensure the bend of the bar follows the

contour of the trailing arm; otherwise you'll
have to turn the bar around (on mine the
Whiteline label on the bar ended up upside
down). Don't tighten the brackets at this
point - it's best to finish the other end first.

Step 4 - Attach the Figure-of-8 Hangars
This bit is dead simple - just align the bar
so it's centred, and loosely attach one end
as shown in the photo.
If youve got the adjustable version: the

rearmost hole will make the bar is softer in
operation, and foremost hole makes the
bar even stiffer.
Don't tighten the first end! Attach the

other side, and tighten both sides evenly so
everything settles in centred. Finally,
grease the bushes so they don't creak.
Step5 - Tighten Rear Brackets

Tighten rear brackets, and make sure nothing fouls any parts below the car.
Be especially wary of the driver's side bracket in relation to the fuel tank!
Step6 - Check Everything is Tight

Go round again and make sure everything is torqued up nice and tight.
Finally, take for a test drive - I used a suitably twisty back road round the back of nearby government
buildings. The car now corners flat, doesn't jitter about at the rear as it did, and doesn't rock and roll as it
would tend to do on straight roads before.
Well worth the money spent.

How To.. Fit a Z22SE Airbox on a Z20LET
Why do this mod?
More direct route to the turbo,

thus decreasing pressure loss in
the inlet and theoretically
increasing power.
The shorter route increases
noise from the turbo making the
dump valve more audible. (This
is possibly why Vauxhall did not
choose this arrangement as
standard). The extra noise may
or may not be desirable.
Less heat soak due to removal
of the metal crossover pipe.
Theoretically increasing power.
Easier to change spark plugs as
they are no long obstructed.
Tidies up the engine bay.
This mod can be done by either using

Samco silicone hoses or standard Z20 LET pipes
Procedure - Using Samco Hoses
Parts required
2.2 Airbox Part Number 9129077, this comes complete with everything you need to fit
including a new standard air filter. Retail 48.95 + VAT
Silicon hose - AFM to Turbo. 70mm reducing to 63mm through 90 degrees. Samco pt no.
RE90.70.63. 19.50+vat.
Silicon hose - Airbox to AFM. 70mm to 70mm through 45 degrees. Samco pt no. E45.70.
22.50+vat.
Pipercross crank case breather filter pt no. C9025. 19.23+vat.
1m 20mm ID crank case breather pipe.
(Samco hoses can be ordered from Merlin Motorsport on 01249 782101). Prices are correct at time of
writing.
Thanks to MattS & Mike Warner for the How To

Note - Both silicone pipes will need cutting down to suit. The easiest way is by eye, i.e. holding them
over the components and marking them up. To cut a straight line, fit a jubilee clip over the pipe and
cut along the edge of the clip.
1. Remove the following parts - 2.0 Air Box, Cross over pipe, AMM and all hoses as far as the turbo
inlet. Cover the turbo inlet with a cloth to stop anything from falling into it.
2. Fit the 2.2 Airbox - it sits directly onto your existing mountings, taking no more than 5 minutes.
However it is worthwhile de-restricting the airbox before it is fitted.
3. Loosely fit the 45 degree hose

between the airbox and the AFM,
making sure that the AFM is fitted
the correct way round and aligned
as in the photograph (right).
4. Loosely fit the 90 degree hose

between the AFM and airbox
5. Using the other 90degree hose,

place the thinner end onto the
turbo inlet and the other to the
AFM
6. Once youre happy that everything

is lined up correctly, refit your
existing jubilee clips and tighten.
7. The AFM wiring will no longer

reach the AFM, so this will need to be extended.
If you are lucky, your loom may have excess wiring inside the loom tray at the rear of the engine.
To check, remove the top of the loom tray along the rear of the cam cover and locate the AFM
part of the loom. If there is enough slack to reach the AFM, make a new exit from the loom tray
approx 1" from the end and make the existing loom exit here. This should give you enough length
of cable to plug straight in.
Alternatively, you can simply cut the loom and extend it. Make sure you do one wire at a time so
that you eliminate the risk of connecting the wrong wires together, cover all new wiring in black
insulating tape. Try and route the wires away from moving and hot parts.

8. From the back of the cam cover, fit the new
breather hose to the breather outlet and at
the other end of the hose, fit the Pipercross
crankcase filter. This can be positioned
wherever you wish the photo right shows a
neat suggested location.
Once complete, give the car a test drive. You

should notice an increased in induction, turbo
spool and dump valve noise. You may also notice
that turbo spool-up is quicker and an increase of
power.
Please note:
note: that at the time of writing, we are
unsure if venting the crank case fumes to
atmosphere would be an MOT failure. If it is, it
may be necessary to revert back to standard for
your MOT. This is not a problem as it would take
no more than 10mins to revert back just keep
all the old bits somewhere safe.
Procedure
Procedure using standard Z20let pipes
Parts Required
2.2 Airbox Part Number 9129077, this comes complete with everything you need to fit
including a new standard air filter. Retail 48.95 + VAT
Pipercross crank case breather filter pt no. C9025. 19.23+vat.
1m 20mm ID crank case breather pipe
1. Remove the following parts - 2.0

Airbox, Cross-over pipe, AFM all
hoses as far as the turbo.
2. Fit the 2.2 Airbox, as detailed above.
3. Locate the 45 hose, (originally fitted

between the 2.0 airbox and AFM)
onto the new airbox. As the outlet of
the new air box is slight smaller than
the old one, you will need to make a
small V shaped cut on the bottom lip
of the pipe to ensure it clamps up
correctly.

4. Insert the AFM - making sure that it is fitted the correct way round and aligned as in the
photograph (page1).
5. Using the other 90 hose, place the longer section on the turbo inlet and the other to the AFM
6. Once youre satisfied that it is all lined up correctly, tighten the jubilee clips.
7. Refer to step 7 above for details of modify in the AFM harness.
8. Refer to step 8 above for details of routing the new breather pipe.

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How To..

Now thats all cleared up on with the how-to!

Parts and Tools Needed:

Thanks to DanSport16v for the How To

Thanks to DanSport16v for the How To

After removing the rear seats and door

Remove the existing speaker by undoing

Using a tape measure, ensure that the

Trace around the template with a black pen.

Thanks to DanSport16v for the How To

You may need an extra pair of hands to hold

Offer up the speaker to the hole. I needed to

Thanks to DanSport16v for the How To

Fit the speaker onto the rear quarter using the

Switch on the head unit and check that the

Smile , make a cup of tea, and then repeat all

When finished, refit the rear seats and enjoy the

Thanks to DanSport16v for the How To

No.20 Torx screwdriver

There are many different bases fitted to

This How to was done on a 3-door

If your aerial base looks like this -->,

Basically all that needs doing is to drop

Thanks to Keif for the How To

Undo the three Torx screws (marked ) in the

You don't need to remove the panel, just pull it

Then the handle will come out leaving the

Thanks to Keif for the How To

Remember this needs doing for BOTH side of

When all the trim is out, you can carefully get

It's held up with 3 Velcro pads. Pull it down

Thanks to Keif for the How To

Then unclip the washer connection.

Preparing the New

Your new base is now ready to be fitted.

Plus you wont need to adjust the jet.

Fitting the water pipe back is a pain and a good

I wrapped insulation tape around the aerial

The only thing to watch re-fitting the interior

Thanks to Keif for the How To

The Mk4 Astra is not fitted with a rear Anti-

Stage 1 190nm or 66lbf ft

Repeat for the other side

Thanks to lee gsi for the How To

Before T-shaped nut fitted After (ready to accept bracket)

Place the 2 bolts in the bracket with the head of

Now bolt the bracket up to the T-shaped nut

Do the other side!

Thanks to lee gsi for the How To

Now you need to bolt on the anti roll bar

Place the bolts with the square ends

Then place the rubber bush around the roll

When fitting the U-clamps, just do up the

Next bolt the anti roll bar to the other

The roll bar is under a bit of tension so you

The bracket that you had already fitted to

Again, dont do them up tight so you have

Thanks to lee gsi for the How To

Thanks to lee gsi for the How To

The ashtray comes apart really easily as long as you

Locate the gear which controls the speed of the

To remove the gear insert a small screwdriver in

There is a central clip on it, I've inserted the thin