Breathtaking Somaliland: A Travelers Perspective

By: Stefan Williams

I have had the pleasure of traveling throughout much of East Africa and the Middle East. Given
my familiarity with this vast and differentiated region with its wealth of cultures, climates and
food, I must say that one of my favorite places to visit is Somaliland. While Somaliland is still off
the beaten path for most travelers on account its southerly neighbors dangerous reputation,
traveling to Somaliland is a safe and simple matter these days and provides the traveler with
some memorable experiences. I generally catch a flight to Somaliland from other parts of the
region, Europe or North America on Ethiopian Airlines, with a short connection in Addis Ababa.
Arrival in Hargeisa, the bustling and burgeoning capital city of Somaliland is straightforward,
though travelers hailing from countries outside East Africa should get a visa prior to arrival. The
road from the airport into town offers spectacular views of Hargeisa and its famous natural
landmark: the twin hills of Naasa Hablood, sometimes referred to as the Virgins Breast
Mountains on account of their distinctive shape side-by-side.
More famous than Naasa Hablood is Laas Geel, a series of caves in Somaliland covered in
ancient Neolithic paintings and located conveniently within easy reach of Hargeisa. The rock art
in these caves is stunning. They rival the great cave paintings found at Lascaux, in France, and
are arguably some of the best-preserved anywhere in the world. They are also very old and
estimated to date back anywhere from 3000 to 9000 BCE. The paintings are so vivid it baffles
the mind to consider their age. Laas Geel alone makes the trip to Somaliland worth it. But it is
just one of many sights that mystify and enchant visitors to this beautiful land.
Hargeisa is the capital of the self-declared Republic of Somaliland. Its growth over the past
decade is a testament to the stability and peace that characterizes Somaliland and puts it at
odds with its neighbor to the south, Somalia. Hargeisa is now a thriving metropolis of over 1
million inhabitants. Competitive, local businesses vie for a growing market share and the sense
of security fostered by successive governments has translated into the presence of multiple
international organizations and businesses. Hargeisa is a vibrant and rather cosmopolitan city
where visitors from China, Kenya, the UK, Ethiopia, Turkey and the Gulf may share tables at
various restaurants and hotels with local Somalilanders. I enjoy sampling delicious Somali tea
brewed with milk and spices or strong, black coffee often made with beans from the Harar
region of Ethiopia, three hours to the east by car.
For a taste of Italy in Hargeisa, made possible by an imported, state-of-the-art Italian espresso
machine, head to Cup of Art Italian Coffee House. Cup of Art offers Italian espresso, cappuccino,
and lattes made with fair-trade Ethiopian beans from the Dumerso region. Order one of their
tasty cakes or sweet pastries to accompany your brew of choice. Opened recently by Saara, a
Somalilander by way of the UK, Cup of Arts funky yellow and purple walls and steaming jolts of
caffeine will satisfy your urge in Hargeisa for a world-class coffee shop and the accompanying,
friendly coffee klatsch. Cup or Art is located on the main road heading west from downtown
Hargeisa. If you pass Gollis University a private university rated as the best higher education
institution in Somaliland - you have gone too far.
Somalis love their camels, to include drinking camel milk and feasting on stewed camel meat.
However, it is the lowly goat that is most often served. You can immediately see why. Hargeisa
is full of goats and they have the run of the place similar to cows in India, minus any sacredness
attached to them. When eating goat meat, be sure to order shigni, a spicy sauce often referred
to as Somali chutney or Somali salsa. Shigni is most often made in Somaliland from a
combination of fresh green chilies, potatoes, onions, tomatoes, garlic and cilantro and is
delectable accompaniment with any meat dish, be that goat, fish, chicken, camel or beef.
Though there are many regional variations - to include shigni made with tamarind - the
Somaliland version on offer at Lake Assal Restaurant in Hargeisa is superb. Every time I travel to
Hargeisa I am sure to dine at Lake Assal. Named after a lake in Djibouti, Lake Assal offers classic
local and continental cuisine in the pleasant surroundings of a bungalow house, complete with
airy balconies, gardens and fountains. It is the perfect way to beat Somalilands daytime heat or
enjoy its cool evenings. The owner, Mr. Adbi Kinsi, is always there and warmly welcomes you to
his establishment in either Somali or French, thus displaying his Djiboutian roots. Order pasta
alfredo, burgers and soup or Somali specialties such as haniid (stewed goat) or suqaar (diced,
spicy beef cubes) along with fresh juice and, of course, spicy shigni. But it is not just local fare
that is on offer in Hargeisa. Given the amount of foreigners doing business and coming as
tourists, both locals and the casual visitor have the option of sampling Ethiopian, Turkish or
Arabian specialties in Hargeisa.
To gain an understanding of the history of Somaliland and the events that forged a strong
Somaliland identity, be sure to visit the Hargeisa Provincial Museum (currently housed within
the Ministry of Culture). The museum opened in 1977 when Somaliland was still part of a
unified Somalia It chronicles the ethnographic and cultural history unique to this part of the
Horn of Africa and the development of the Somali people, identity, culture and language
paying particular emphasis to the people and clans who inhabit what is now the Republic of
Somaliland.
The Horn of Africa is renowned for having one of the longest, best preserved and unspoiled
coastlines in the world. The pristine sand beaches are like a thin string of beautiful pearls
bordering the turquoise waters of the Gulf of Aden and Red Sea. It is hard to say which of these
beaches is the most stunning, but the seaside near Berbera in the Sahil region of Somaliland
may take the cake. The beaches here boast the softest sand and warm, turquoise waters. They
are unspoiled by mass tourism and overdevelopment. Luckily there are comfortable places to
stay so the traveler can take advantage of the regions fantastic scuba diving, fishing,
snorkeling, and surfing. For divers such as myself, the waters of Somaliland offer some of the
worlds most beautiful coral reefs. They are a continuation of the famous Red Sea reefs to the
north without the crowds, hype and expense of Hurghada or Sharm el-Sheikh in Egypt.
Approximately 60 km east of Berbera is Dhambalin, another stunning cave site covered in
Neolithic rock art. Located in the northwestern Togdheer province of Somaliland, Dhambalin
boasts rock art depicting cattle, goats and giraffes. It was discovered in 2007 by the famous
Somaliland archeologist Sada Mire, and the freshness and vivid colors of the ancient art work
rivals that of Laas Geel. The remoteness of Dhambalin makes the experience of visiting all the
more unique and reminds one of our shared ancestry with these ancient, now nameless beings
who left behind such depictions of beauty and the world as they knew it.
While the beaches of Berbera are exquisite, equally impressive and further to the west are the
unspoiled, undeveloped beaches of Ceel Sheikh (El Sheikh). Here the sand is glistening white,
the water is crystal clear, and the coral reefs are untouched, impressive and healthy. Snorkeling
is a pleasure in the bathtub temperature water and the now sand-covered city of Bulhaar is
nearby beckoning the traveler to explore.
For adventurous types and those who love hiking, Somaliland offers some world-class mountain
climbing that offers breathtaking vistas without the headache of a more technical climb no
ropes and harnesses are needed. Gacan Libaax (Gaan Libaah) is an approximately 1,999 metre
mountain peak near Oodweyne, and is the highest mountain in the Togdheer mountain range
in Somaliland. While strenuous at times, summiting the mountain provides unparalleled views
across Somaliland. If you go after it has recently rained, the greenery is magnificent. An added
bonus to any travel to the Gacan Libaax region is the chance to see native Somali horses (equus
africanus somalicus). These horses are found only in the Somali territories and eastern Ethiopia.
One of my favorite events during a recent stay in Somaliland was a day trip that lasted into the
late evening. I traveled with a small tour group to one of the local farms and orchards - known
as bustans in Somali - in the vicinity of Abaarso and Gabilay, towns about 20 minutes to the
west of Hargeisa. The weather was sublime and quickly cooled off as the sun sank in the west
over Ethiopia. We sat under the mango trees sampling the locally grown, organic fruits and
vegetables. But the piece de resistance was the roasted, young goat provided as part of our tour
and meal. It was cooked to succulent perfection with herbs and spices and sloughed off the
bone, melting in our mouths. No need for a knife to slice this tasty meat.
I encourage my friends, family and colleagues to visit Somaliland, this wonder of nature and
culture situated at the crossroads of East Africa, Asia and the Middle East. While this may
appear daunting to outsiders, I have a recommendation that will facilitate your travel and ease
your mind: Almis Real Estate & Travel Agency. Located in Hargeisa, they offer convenience, a
wealth of information and consistently demonstrate international standards of customer
service. Their staff are fluent in English and take the time necessary to provide would-be
tourists and visitors with the information, accommodations and travel needs they may require
in Somaliland. They booked my airline tickets to and from Europe to Somaliland via Addis
Ababa. They also booked my hotel rooms, procured my Somaliland visa hassle-free, and
arranged for a rental car and driver throughout my stay. Almis Real Estate & Travel Agency
arranged my travel to and from Laas Geel as well as Berbera, Dhambalin and all other locations
in Somaliland and ensured quality, safety and comfort of transportation and accommodations
throughout my stay. They are truly the first of their kind in this region and I highly recommend
them.
Given the ease of making travel arrangements and traveling to Somaliland, it is amazing more
people have not taken the time to discover this gem. You may feel like an intrepid traveler, but
the reality is that travel to and within Somaliland is safe, convenient and spectacularly
memorable. More than the natural beauty and food on offer however, it is the people of
Somaliland and their hospitality and welcoming nature who make a visit to Somaliland feel like
the trip of a lifetime. Once you have been you will come back.
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For ticketing, transfers, visas, accommodation, tours and vehicle arrangements during your stay
in Somaliland contact:
Almis Real Estate & Travel Agency
Imaan Center, Suite 204
Sh. Ibrahim Sh. Yusuf Sh. Madar Road Jig-Jiga Yar,
Hargeisa, Somaliland

Landline: +252 2 572077

Mobile: +252 63 4488327/ +252 63 4787364

Website: www.almis.co

E-mail: info@almis.co

For a great cup of coffee in pleasant surroundings visit:

Cup of Art Italian Coffee House

Road Number One.

Hargeisa, Somaliland

Mobile: +252 63 4729122

Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/pages/A-Cup-of-Art-Italian-Coffee-House-

Hargeisa/609588295835109?sk=timeline

For tasty, local Somali and continental fare in bucolic surroundings visit:

Lake Assal Restaurant

Shaab Area

Guled Park Square, North Street

300 metres off Road Number One.

Hargeisa, Somaliland

Mobile: +252 63 4841865

No website

Email: lakeassal@gmail.com