ON SURFACTANTS AND

FORMULATION (FACE WASH,

SHAMPOO AND SHOWER GELS)
23/04/2013

So now we know how to combine (and why to combine) the different

surfactants but how to calculate the Active Surfactant Matter we
want in our product? (which also mean: how much surfactant we have to
add to our product to have the surfactant concentration we want to obtain?).
As I already explained the Surfactant Matter of a liquid surfactant which we
buy is not 100%: the surfactant is made of the Surfactant Matter and Water
(and probably other ingredients like glycerin, for example); therefore every
surfactant we buy has a Active Surfactant Matter percentage which is what
we have to consider.

As I wrote in the previous posts about formulation of detergents (shampoo,

bubble bath, shower gel, face wash), the amount of the TOTAL Active Matter
of surfactants has to vary according to the purpose of our detergent.
Generally this is the scheme:
face wash: <10%
detergent for intimate use: <10%
shampoo: 10%-15%
shower gel: 15%-20%
bubble bath: 20%-25% (in case you really use it only to make bubbles in
the bath tub and you never use it directly on your skin, you could even reach
35% but I dont suggest it).
Now lets learn how to formulate the detergent.
Lets say we want to make a shower gel, with an Active Matter (once again,
the effective concentration of surfactants) around 18%.
We have also already decided which surfactants we want to use:
Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate (Concentration 29%)
Cocamidopropyl Betaine (Concentration 36%)
Lauryl Glucoside (Concentration 52%)

There are two different approaches in the formulation to obtain 18%

Active Surfactant Matter:
Approach n.1:
We can choose which share/quota of the total ASM (active surfactant matter)
we want to give to each surfactant.
For example this is my choice:
Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate 10
Cocamidopropyl Betaine 5
Lauryl Glucoside 3
Total ASM = 18 (as decided)
Now we need to calculate the effective grams of each surfactant that we
need to add to our shower gel formula:
We divide the quota of each surfactant by the ASM of the surfactant (in
decimals: the ASM of each surfactant is a percentage so if it is 29% we divide
per 0.29 OR we divide per 29 and multiply the result for 100 up to you).
Anyway it is easier done than said:
Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate (29%) = 10/29*100 = 34,44 (you can add 34.50
gr)
Cocamidopropyl Betaine (36%) = 5/36*100 = 13.88 (you can add 13.50 gr or
14 gr)
Lauryl Glucoside (52%) = 3/52*100 = 5.76 (you can add 5.5 gr)
Approach n.2:
You can also reason the other way around: you try to guess approximately
how much grams of surfactants you want to add to the detergent and then
calculate the effective total ASM; if the result is not close to 18% total, you
change the grams and calculate again until you are satisfied.
For example this is my initial choice:
Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate 40 gr
Cocamidopropyl Betaine 15 gr
Lauryl Glucoside 5 gr
Now I calculate the total ASM of the detergent:
Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate (29%) = 40*0.29 = 11.6
Cocamidopropyl Betaine (36%) = 15*0.36 = 5.4
Lauryl Glucoside (52%) = 5*0.52 = 2.6
Total ASM = 11.6+5.4+2.6 = 19.6

I can either decide that 19.6 is fine for me or I can decide to lower a little bit
the grams or one or all of them and recalculate the Total ASM.
I decide to calculate again changing the value of grams:
SLS (29%) = 35*0.29 = 10.15
Betaine (36%) = 14.5*0.36 = 5.22
Lauryl Glucoside (52%) = 4*0.52 = 2.08
Total ASM = 10.15+5.22+2.08 = 17.45

Now I decide it is fine and I can proceed in the formulation of the Shower
Gel!

Here I post a list of the most common surfactants you can purchase
online, with their average Concentration (ASM) and for the most
common I will add also few words on how to use them:
(Notice that the value may vary of few points % so the best thing would
always be to ask the supplier which is the precise percentage for the exact
batch of surfactant you are purchasing: suppliers always have this
information, so you are not asking for something impossible; however you
can also use these data ).

IMPORTANT: surfactants may have different commercial names from the

substance they are, therefore always check the ingredients list when you
purchase

Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate anionic (29%)

One of the most commonly used eco-friendly surfactants. Improves the foam
of other surfactants (specially betaines) making it more smooth and soft. It
becomes viscous at pH 5, but only if used in high percentage in the
detergent (so remember to acidify your detergent with drops of lactic acid or
citric acid). It becomes liquid if in contact with oils (perfume oils included) so
synthetic thickening agents or xanthan gum have to be used (you have to
consider this in the formulation because the xanthan gum goes in the water
phase). Not good in shampoos.
SLES Sodium Laureth Sulfate anionic (27%)
It becomes very dense once combined with betaine and salt (betaine can be
enough). It is very good in shampoos because it has high wetting properties.
It is not eco-friendly.
SLSA Sodium Lauroyl Sulfoacetate anionic
It is not aggressive (this term of course is relative) and it is a powder. It is
good if used in the making of Bubble Bars (recipe soon ok ?)

Sodium Lauryl Glutamate anionic (36%-40%)

Very delicate and used in products for kids. Unfortunately it tends to melt
down the viscosity of many other surfactants (therefore formulate
accordingly).
Sodium Comopolyglucoside Tartrate/Citrate anionic (30%)
Delicate and eco-friendly. Used in products for kids and for people who have
very sensitive skin. Very low viscosity.
Cocamidopropyl Betaine amphoteric (30%-38%)
Alone it is not delicate but it makes other surfactants more delicate (specially
anionic surfactants) in a ratio of 1:3 or 1:4 with the primary surfactant of the
recipe. It is eco-friendly. Combined with SLES it is a viscosity builder.
Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate amphoteric (36%-40%)
Delicate. It is used in shampoo because it has conditioning properties to the
hair (however for thin hair it might be too much). It doesnt burn the eyes
(therefore it would be good in a shampoo for kids or in a face wash). Usually
it is used around 5%.
Lauryl Glucoside non-ionic (50%-53%)
It is a thick, white paste so it needs to be heated a bit to be combined with
other surfactants; the good news is that it helps the viscosity of the final
product. It is quite delicate and it reduces the harshness of the primary
surfactants. Usually added in low percentage.
Decyl Glucoside non-ionic (63%-63%)
Good foam booster. Unfortunately it tends to liquefy the other surfactants.
Usually added in low percentage.
Coco Glucoside & Glyceryl Oleate non-ionic (50%-55%)
This is a combination of the surfactant Coco Glucoside with Glyceryl Oleate
(Glyceryl Oleate is the ester of glycerin and oleic acid. It is produced from oils
that contain high concentrations of oleic acid, such as olive oil, peanut oil,
teaseed oil or pecan oil. Source Here), which limits already the harshness of
the first. It is added in low percentages (3%-4%)
Lauryl Glucoside and Cocamidopropyl Betaine (43%)
This is made of already two combined surfactants
Coco Betaine (29%-33%)
Coco Glucoside (51%-53%)
Disodium Laureth Sulfoccinate anionic (35%)
Hope this was clear enough

Next time I will show a full recipe of a detergent (I still have to choose
between a shampoo and a face wash but anyway sooner or later I will post
both).

If you want more posts about how to formulate Shampoos check HERE
Let me know if you have any questions