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and cuts.
Additive is a skin protector used in amounts of 0.5% - 2.0% of your formulation. For example, if you had a 100 gram recipe, you would use only0.5 - 2
grams.
Allantoin (pronounced: [uh-lan-toh-in] is a fluffy, white, crystalline powder with no odor. It is a crystal created by the oxidation of uric acid. The product is
100% synthetic with respect to source, manufacture and treatment.
Allantoin's purpose is to protect the skin. Commonly, it is found in creams, lotions, lipsticks, lip balms, sunscreens.
MMU (Mineral Make Up) crafters also like to use it in their loose powder because it is so soothing and beneficial to the skin. For example, the FDA
considers it a great product for minor cuts, sunburn, diaper rash and chapped lips. It also stimulates the growth of new skin.
Bismuth Oxychloride: This ingredient offers luminosity and sheen, maximum coverage and adds a smooth texture to minerals.
It is a known skin irritant, and people with a sensitivity may suffer breakouts, itching or skin irritations.
Bismuth Oxychloride is an inorganic white pigment commonly used in foundations, blushes and other color cosmetics.
Additionally, this product has been UV treated. This doesn't mean that it gives added UV protection to your skin, but it does mean that the product itself
will have a longer shelf life in terms of its color. Bismuth has a tendency to go grey over time, and this extra UV protection insures that it will stay a true
white.
Boron Nitride: This mineral is commonly used in cosmetic companies line of glows and veils for its light and silky texture. It has average
coverage but high adhesion qualities. Boron nitride also has anti-bacterial properties. It is oil- absorbing and glides on smoothly to the skin. Due to
these last two qualities it is often included in makeup for acne sufferers. Our Boron Nitride is a soft, silky white mineral powder. It is used as an additive
to improve the "slip" of a product (how smoothly the product applies) as well as "adhesion" (how long it stays on the skin).
Boron Nitride is a natural, inert mineral and itis a useful additive to foundations, concealers, eye shadows, and lipsticks, skin creams and face and body
powders.
Calcium Carbonate
Calcium Carbonate is found in chalk, limestone, marble and travertine. Even eggshells are 95% calcium carbonate!
Calcium Carbonate has a gazillion uses that are not related to cosmetics. It is a filler in plastics, in paint, a whitening agent in ceramics, in toothpaste,
to make chalk, it is used as a dietary supplement . . . and on and on.
Calcium Carbonate absorbs moisture. So, it is often added to face powders to increase the ability of the makeup to absorb moisture. In cosmetics,
Calcium Carbonate makes a great absorber in foundations, primers and finishing powders. Use in a percentage of about 2-5% of the formula to start.
Carmine: Provides red pigmentation to mineral cosmetics. Although natural, this is an animal by- product - made from boiled and ground
beetle carcasses.
Cornstarch (Zea Mays): Cornstarch is a vegetable starch. It is a safe alternative to talc and is highly absorbent. There are many
downsides to using cornstarch as a basis in mineral makeup. It does not offer good adhesion and does not protect you from UV rays. Since
cornstarch is a vegetable-based ingredient, any product containing cornstarch will have a definite shelf-life of about 3 months.
C-SMAX
Sericite Mica surface treated with Carnauba Wax.
Sericite Mica is a popular base powder in mineral makeup formulations. It is wonderful by itself but even more wonderful when tweaked by various
additives or surface treatments.
In addition to our plain Sericite Mica and Silk Mica, we currently carry MM (Magnesium Myristrate) Sericite, Methicone Sericite, and SMAX (Sericite
treated with petro-based wax).
"Carnauba treated Sericite is natural and vegan. The wax coating helps bind the particles so the formulas are less 'flyaway'. The wax also keeps the
mica from changing color as it absorbs oil and helps eliminate the typical shine on the surface of the mica particles. After blending it feels amazingly
smooth, light and doesn't leave an ashen look on dark brown skin."
Use at 2 - 5% by weight in creams, lotions, shampoos, conditioners, bubble baths, shower gels and other skin and hair care products.
Iron Oxides: Are all-natural mineral pigments, giving mineral makeup its color.
Kaolin Clay: Also known as China clay, this cosmetic ingredient has been used for centuries for its absorbent
properties and astringent effect. It is often used in facial masks. It has average coverage and high adhesion and used in small
amounts to increase oil absorption, reducing shine on oily skin. Generally safe, those with dry skin types should avoid using
products with kaolin clay to avoid further dehydration
Sericite mica Treated with Carnauba Wax: Carnauba Wax treated Sericite has water resistant properties and has no
luster. It feels creamy and glides well onto skin, and creates a long-wearing foundation that keeps your color consistent throughout the day.
Carnauba wax is vegan and natural. This sericite is used in our House Blend, Oil-Control and UltraCover formulas
It is similar to our other uncolored mica, Sericite, except that it is silkier, whiter, and somewhat more expensive.
Silk mica is recommended as a filler/extender in loose mineral eyeshadow and face powder at a concentration of 10 - 40% because it offers up a
soft, smooth texture and it is "mattifying".
For the same reasons, it is also a good choice for cream and pressed powder.
Formulas.
Silica/Silicone Microspheres: Seen as "silica" on your ingredients list. Because of their size and shape, silica microspheres are
able to scatter light to diminish the look of fine lines on the skin, effect also known as optical blurring or soft focus. It also provides an elegant silky
texture, enhanced slip and better blendability for a more natural finish. Silica is also absorbent and often used in greater concentrations for oil control.
It has successfully been used in hypoallergenic and allergy tested formulations.
Silk Powder: Silk offers moisturizing properties, entraps oil, and offers relief for skin burns. It is not a mineral and may clog pores,
causing skin irritations or breakouts.
Nylon 12
Synthetic (vegan) base powder with exceptional skin feel.
Nylon-12 Powder is white base powder with a good price point, used in making all kinds of cosmetics. It is a great substitute for Talc, and has a
similar soft skin feel. It is also shown to not block skin pores the way that mica and talc can. It has great slip, moderate oil absorption. The micron
size is an average of 6-9 microns and it rolls across the skin because it is formed into spherical beads (as opposed to Mica's plate like shape, as an
example).
These spherical beads allows the loose powder to expand and contract along the fine lines of the skin without filling them in, giving a nice, smooth
appearance.
It is also hypo-allergenic. The product is made in Korea.
This feedback from Sylvia, who asked us to bring this in: "Thanks for getting in nylon 12. Not only do cosmetics look finer when it is added, it's really
hard to press mattes without it. The light ones are easier, but the really dark ones need the nylon 12 to keep the darkness."
Pashmica
Mica paired with natural silica.
Named after super soft and silky Pashmina Fleece, Pashmica Mica is the perfect paring of natural mineral mica with silky smooth silica (also a
natural mineral) which rolls and glides over the skin.The result is a soft, cushiony powder which imparts a soft-focus, dewy finish.
SMAX Mica
Wax coated Sericite Mica.
SMAX is Sericite Mica coated with synthetic paraffin wax. The advantage of this surface treatment is that the mica has a nice silky feeling going on
and it also stays on longer! (Improved slip and adhesion). By using a synthetic rather than a natural wax, the melting point is higher, making for a
product which is more stable under all conditions.
The wax surface coating also gives it a better "press ability" making it a superior choice for pressed powder cosmetics.
Silica Microspheres
Silica is a mineral found all over the planet -- in sandstone, clay, granite, even in plants and animals! It is the main ingredient in glass.
It is an oil absorbent, It improves "slip" (how the product feels going on) Because of their spherical shape silica also scatter light and blur the look of
fine lines and wrinkles.
Median particle size is 5 microns. It is an amorphous hydrated silica.
We would suggest experimenting with Silica at 1% - 15% by weight of the formula for a powdered product. It improves the performance and feel of
the product and it is a very natural addition to the ingredients list.
Iron Oxides
Coloring Agents/Pigments
Compounds of iron that are used as coloring agents in some cosmetics. They also are used as a metal polish called jewelers rouge, and are well-
known in their crude form as rust. Although iron oxides occur naturally, the forms used in cosmetics are synthetic. Iron oxides are closely regulated by
the U.S. Food and Drug Administration. According to the website CosmeticsInfo.org (which links to the FDAs Code of Federal Regulations for iron
oxides), Synthetic iron oxides are produced in various ways, including thermal decomposition of iron salts, such as ferrous sulfate, to produce reds;
precipitation to produce yellows, reds, browns, and blacks; and reduction of organic compounds by iron to produce yellows and blacks.
The starting raw material used in the production of Magnesium Stearate is Stearic Acid and is of vegetable-base origin (palm oil).
Titanium Dioxide is a very common mineral used to whiten cosmetics, soaps, toiletries, etc.
There are two basic types: water dispersible and oil dispersible. As you might guess, the first type blends easily into water and the second into oil.
What makes Titanium Dioxide one type or the other? The difference lies in the amount of salts and minerals in the product. More salt makes the
pigment work better in the water phase of a product. Less salt makes it more tolerant of oil phases. When choosing which to use, here are some
things to consider:
For loose powders, you may prefer oil dispersible (if the skin is not oily) as it will not take water out of the air like water dispersible, and therefore it
will keep your product flowing better. If you are formulating for oily skin, however, consider using the water-dispersible type Titanium Dioxide.
Ultramarines
Coloring Agents/Pigments
Inorganic, synthetic pigments (of various colors) permanently listed by the FDA for external use only, including deemed safe for use around the eye
area. Some sources of ultramarines are mineral, but the process of turning the raw mineral into various ultramarine pigments means it's no longer a
natural ingredient. That's actually a good thing, because raw minerals extracted from the earth can contain heavy metals that pose a health risk.
We had a price increase from the manufacturer and were forced to raise our prices on the bulk product.
Lo Micron and Z-cote are relatively translucent. High Micron is a larger particle size (passing through 325 mesh) and is a better option for cosmetics
which require more coverage and density. Zinc Oxide's purpose is to protect the skin from UV and other damage. Commonly, it is found in ointments,
creams, and lotion. Zinc oxide is a natural mineral.
Zinc Stearate
Now available, natural and essential raw material for making your own pressed powders!
Try this as a starting experiment: Take 1.8 grams of your favorite premade cosmetic, add 0.2 grams of zinc stearate (this is 10%), put it in a 3x4 zip
lock bag. Zip and rub together between your hands. Squeeze in 6 drops of jojoba oil, zip shut and rub some more. Run through sieve and press into
the small round 26 mm pan in three layers. Videos, photos and more specifics to follow, but this will get you started.