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Industrial Attachment
PARTEX DENIM LTD.
Banglabazar, Gazipur, Bangladesh
PARTEX DENIM LTD.
Banglabazar, Gazipur
Prepared by:
Industrial Supervisor:
Table of Contents
Acknowledgement ...............................................................................................................................................10
Introduction ...........................................................................................................................................................11
Company Profile ...................................................................................................................................................12
1.1 PARTEX HOLDINGS: ....................................................................................................................................13
1.2 Enterprises of Partex Holdings: ..................................................................................................................14
1.3 PARTEX DENIM LTD: ...................................................................................................................................15
1.4 Work-Time Schedule of the Factory:..........................................................................................................15
1.5 Satellite View: ............................................................................................................................................17
1.6 Factory Layout:...........................................................................................................................................18
1.7 Company Organogram: ..............................................................................................................................21
Process Flow ..........................................................................................................................................................22
2.1 Process Flow Chart .....................................................................................................................................23
Yarn Store ...............................................................................................................................................................24
3.1 Types of yarn used: ....................................................................................................................................25
3.2 Yarn count used: ........................................................................................................................................25
3.3 Supplier of the Yarn: ..................................................................................................................................25
3.4 Yarn Store Layout: ......................................................................................................................................26
Warping ...................................................................................................................................................................27
4.1 Definition: ..................................................................................................................................................28
4.2 Objects of Warping: ...................................................................................................................................28
4.3 Importance of Warping: .............................................................................................................................28
4.4 Types of Warping: ......................................................................................................................................28
4.4.1 Direct Warping: .................................................................................................................................29
4.4.2 Indirect or Sectional Warping: ...........................................................................................................29
4.4.3 Ball Warping: .....................................................................................................................................30
4.4.4 Draw Warping: ..................................................................................................................................30
4.5 Difference between High speed warping and Sectional warping: .............................................................30
4.6 Warping in Partex Denim: ..........................................................................................................................31
4.6.1 Machine Specifications: .....................................................................................................................31
4.6.2 Warping Section Layout: ...................................................................................................................32
4.6.3 Machine Main Parts: .........................................................................................................................33
4.6.4 Functions of Different Parts: .............................................................................................................33
4.7 Briefly Description of Different Parts: ........................................................................................................34
4.7.1 Creel: .................................................................................................................................................34
4.7.2 Comparison between H creel & V creel: ...........................................................................................34
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PARTEX DENIM
Acknowledgement
Firstly I would like to thank the Almighty Allah for giving me patience to conclude my internship program
& finally this industrial attachment.
Preparing the internship report based on Fabric Manufacturing Technology (Denim), I have
understood that it is very difficult to find out the basic and fundamental aspects of fabric manufacturing
are largely distant from the theoretical bookish knowledge.
I express my heartfelt gratitude to Mr. M. S. Hasan, General Manager, Partex Denim Ltd. for giving me
permission for industrial training in his mill.
I am also thankful to Mr. Zainul Abedin Bhuyan, A. G. M. (Weaving), for his cordial support during the
period of internship.
After him I would like to thank Mr. Rafat Bin Hasan for his guideline and endless help. My gathered
knowledge about denim washing will not successful without his help.
From Preparatory Section I would like to thank Mr. Alamgir (Warping), Mr. Akash (Warping), Mr. Aziz
(Dyeing) for their guideline about Warping, Dyeing & Sizing process.
From Weaving Section I would like to thank Mr. Radhakanta Paul (Manager) & Mr. Sukanta Kumar (Asst.
manager) for their support. They helped me a lot about learning weaving process both airjet and rapier
loom.
I would like to thank Mr. Mahfuzur Rahman (Manager) from finishing section, Mr. Masud & Mr. Kaium
from R&D department. I have learned so many things form R&D department. Without their help it will
difficult for me to understanding the whole process. Special Thanks to Mr. Mogh (A.G.M) from utility
section. I have learned so many things in this section specially ETP.
I am very grateful and deeply indebted to our respected teacher Professor Syed Fakhrul Hassan,
Chairman, Department of Textile Engineering, Southeast University for his continuous support,
encouragement, suggestion, guidance and constructive criticism to get through the industrial training.
I thank to the management of Partex Denim Ltd. for giving me the opportunity to undergo Industrial
Training there.
Thus all in all it can be said that without their help it would not be possible for me to prepare this
internship report. So I would like to convey thanks notation to all who directly or indirectly contributed
and inspired me to time to time in preparing the report.
My gratitude also goes to all the employees of Partex Denim Ltd. for their sincere co-operation, support
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and valuable advice which they have provided me during the training period.
Introduction
If the theoretical knowledge is a glass of water then the practical knowledge would be drinking of water.
It is always very easy to make a man understand about a firebox by showing and lighting practically
rather than describing theoretically who has not ever seen a firebox. So, for any technical education the
practical experience is the most important as well as the theoretical knowledge.
As we are studying in a technical line, it is always important for us to gather the practical knowledge.
Through our study life the only biggest chance for us to combine the theoretical knowledge with the
practical knowledge is the Industrial Attachment Period that comes only once in the education life
when completing under graduate education. So we can easily realize the importance of Industrial
Attachment. And in addition the knowledge we gathered from the industrial training reflects in the
report of industrial attachment note book.
So industrial attachment is the process where a trainee can blend his theoretical knowledge with
practical knowledge which increased the ability of work, skills, performance and attitude and so on. It
also provides sufficient knowledge about production management, productivity evaluation, work study
& efficiency, industrial management, production planning and control, production cost analysis,
inventory management, utility, maintenance and so on. Industrial attachment makes us reliable to be
accustomed with the industrial atmosphere and also improve courage and inspiration to take self-
responsibility.
I have tried to my best to prepare this note book applying our best efforts. I have tried to gather all the
necessary information to make it a valuable for me as well as for everyone. I think it will help me a lot in
future practical life.
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Chapter One
Company Profile
Page12
Founded by Mr. M.A. Hashem in 1959, the mother ship PARTEXS early years were inspired by the spirit
of nationalism. Initially a major importer of consumer products and materials, fast transition to import
substitution made it possible to become pioneer in several industries of national importance in newly
independent Bangladesh. In more recent times, its pioneering spirit has been showcased by PARTEX
HOLDINGS, with direction from the competent next family generation comprising Mr. Aziz Al-Kaiser, Mr.
Aziz Al-Mahmood, Mr. Aziz Al-Masud, Mr. Showkat Aziz Russell & Mr. Rubel Aziz.
PARTEX HOLDINGS companies now operate in business sectors like communications and information
technology, energy, materials, services and consumer products. The major Partex Holdings companies
are Partex Plastics, Partex Denim, Partex Beverage, Amber Pulp, Amber Cotton, Partex Foundry Ltd.,
Partex Rotor Spinning Mills, Partex Spinning Mills, Dhakacom Limited, Partex Sugar Mills Ltd., Partex
Paper Mills Ltd.
We are, by and large, based in Bangladesh and have significant international clients. In tandem with the
increasing international footprint of PARTEX HOLDINGS companies, the Partex flagship is also gaining
international recognition.
In a short span of time, PARTEX HOLDINGS concerns have shown incomparable success. Partex
Beverage Ltd. has positioned at the 2nd position in the local beverage market being the sole official
bottler of Royal Crown Cola Co. To cater international demand, Partex Denim has been supplying 3
million yards per month with minimum lead time, superior quality at the best price, color consistency
and meticulous packaging. Our IT services are to cover all 64 districts by end of 2010 through Dhaka
com, which is also connected to all major Telecom Carriers in the country.
Going forward, Partex Holdings is focusing on new technologies and innovation to drive its business in
Bangladesh and internationally. Anchored in Bangladesh and wedded to traditional values and strong
ethics, Partex Holdings companies are building multinational businesses that will achieve growth
through excellence and innovation, while balancing the interests of shareholders, employees and civil
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society.
Plastics
uPVC Pipes & Fittings
PP-R Pipes & Fittings
Plastic Furniture
Superware
Accessories
Paper
Amber Paper & Pulp Mills Limited
Real Estate
Partex Real Estate Limited
ICT
DhakaCom Limited
BEPS
Radio Dhaka
Trading
Partex Trading & Shipping Limited
Agro Business
Fisheries
Agriculture
Partex Foundry Limited
Page14
Company Profile
.
L TD h
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D EN ns
EX e
Bangla Bazar ART ym ay
P -M
a ka ighw
Dh H
Rajendrapur
Chourasta
Chandra
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s ia
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-To
Page16
a
ak ad
Dh Ro Joydebpur
Railway Station
WTP
ETP
Humidification Plant
Weaving
Utility
Finishing
Entrance Gate
Admin Office
Main Gate
Desizing
Resin Finishing
Mercerizing
340 feet
Dyeing Lab
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Creeling Dyeing & Sizing
Partex Denim is a Premium Denim producer. It commenced its production in 2005 with the best and
latest machinery available in the world. The current capacity is two Million yards of Fabric per month.
On the fabric side, our product range includes weights from 4.5 ozs up to 14.5 ozs using multi-count/
multi twist ring/open-end yarn using CAIPO technology. We have two worlds best Benninger Slasher
Indigo dye range from Switzerland and Germany, which are capable of doing colored bottoming/topping
reactive colored denim/Sandwich/plus very deep indigo shades. Weaving is done on machines from
Picanol Belgium.
Most modern Weaving machines both in rapier and airjet version to get good productivity and to make
trouble free fabric even if it is made with coarser slub or spandex. Picanol Omniplus 800 and GamMax
rapier from Belgium where used some special device as per our requirement which can help to produce
better fabric than others mill though they used also same machine. The loom shed is totally humidified
and temperature controlled with enough air circulation and sufficient pressure to help machine and yarn
to make better fabric and always make the shed clean.
On the finishing side, we have Cibitex which is the most modern finishing range introduced in
Bangladesh for the first time by Partex. It has mini Stenter to keep fabric width same without any
variation. Sufficient brushing, singeing in both side, high quality skew device, bigger padder, sanforizer
and compacting device to make the fabric more clean and maintain shrinkage properly. Partex was the
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pioneer of starting Flat finish fabric commercially in Bangladesh and is capable of doing a variation in the
flat quality as per the buyers requirement. They can make Soft Finish, Flat Finish and Super Flat as well.
This machine was specially designed as per Partexs requirement. Partex gives importance to inspection
machines also. To control proper tension and easy handling. Partex uses most modern machines with
conveyer belt with auto wrapping and packing.
On the quality side, Partex uses most modern and efficient lab instruments from Atlas UK which is
operated by trained technicians. The variable light box, Spectrophotometer, Rubbing tester, Washing
Fastness, Tensile strength tester etc. gives accurate results and helps to keep quality good and more
consistent.
On the development side, the R&D department is independent and equipped to promptly invent new
designs for new fashion and develop buyers requirements timely. This department keeps all documents
from dyeing recipe to fabric construction and keeps master roll to keep shade in same consistent even
over a longer discontinuity. Partex always researches to develop new fashion as per the world
requirement as well as to maintain comfort & durability.
Partex is manufacturing all kinds of denim fabrics in rigid and stretch in the following versions: Non flat,
Flat Super flat, Resin coated, Pigment coated, Over Dyed, PU coated, ECRU denim, RFD denim, Ash
colored denim, Reactive colored denim, Color denim. Partex is manufacturing bi-stretch commercially
for the first time in Bangladesh and coming soon with Organic denim fabric. There is no end in fashion.
They are also in the process of making Linen denim, viscose denim and so on.
On the environment side, Partex maintains a state of the art Water and Effluent Treatment Plant
meeting toughest international standards and always looks to make the working environment greener.
It has plenty of lush trees surrounding the plant premises. Partex maintains labour laws, gives all
facilities like medical, housing, leave, festival bonus etc to their employees.
Pacific Jeans, IDS Group, Kenpark Bangladesh Ltd., Liberty Fashion, Standard Group, M&J Group, Tusuka
Trousers, Shanta Denims, ABA Fashions Ltd., Regency Bangladesh Ltd., Jeacon Garments Ltd., Tanaj
Fashion, Windy Apparels Ltd., Swan Garments Ltd., Birds Garments, EPIC Designers, Brandix Srilanka and
many more.
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Managing Director
General Manager
Coordinator
Manager Manager Production Manager Manager
&
Preparatory Dyeing Marketing Maintenance
Finishing Weaving
Sr. Production Officer Chemist Sr. Production Officer Sr. Production Officer
Asst. Production Officer Trainee Chemist Asst. Production Officer Asst. Production Officer
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Trainee Officer Trainee Officer Trainee Officer
Chapter Two
Process Flow
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Warping
Pre-treatment
Preparatory
Indigo Dyeing
Drying
Sizing
Drying
Beaming
Weaving
Singeing
Softening
Skewness
Sanforizing
Calendaring
Mercerizing
Finishing
Stentering
Desizing
Resin Finishing
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Chapter Three
Yarn Store
Page24
Page25
Gate
114 ft
Gate
Page26
Md. Israfil Alam Rana, israfil_tex@yahoo.com, cell: 01717123339
PARTEX DENIM
Chapter Four
Warping
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4.1 Definition:
In general terms, warping is transferring many yarns from a creel of single-end packages forming a
parallel sheet of yarns wound onto a beam or a section beam.
The warp beam that is installed on weaving machine is called the weavers beam. A weavers beam can
contain several thousand ends and for different reasons it is rarely produced in one operation.
1. Direct Warping
2. Indirect or Sectional Warping
3. Ball Warping
4. Draw Warping
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Direct warping can be used to directly produce the weavers beam in a single operation. This is suitable
for strong yarns that do not require sizing and when the number of warps on the warp beam is relatively
small. This is also called direct beaming. It can also be used to make smaller, intermediate beams called
warpers beams. These smaller beams are combined later at the slashing stage to produce the weavers
beam. This process is called beaming.
Dust Chamber
Winding m/c
Creel
Creel
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Gate Gate
Motor
Control Board
Beam clamping & De-clamping Zone
Machine Section Pressure Roller
Accumulating zone
Comb
Cleanvac Section
Beam Clamping
By motor
& De -clamping
At the creel, the yarn packages are placed. The machine has travelling package V-creels. The max creel
capacity is 520 cones on one end and 560 cones on the other. When one end is on working then the
cones for next lot are installed on inner ends. After the one ends stock ends then the creel is moved to
other side. Capstan tensioners are installed at the creel. Guide rods are installed at the creel.
4.7.3 Rods:
Steel rods in creel frame for yarn support and guidance also important for yarn tension. Due to their
structure, rotor yarns have special balloon dynamics. Ballooning is three times greater with rotor yarns
than with ring spun yarns and has its maximum elongation in the spaces between package and
tensioner. Two round metal rods with a smooth and friction-resistant surface achieve effective balloon
reduction.
Warp yarns are threaded through capstan tensioners and stop motions at the creel. These tensioners
are provided in order to provide necessary tension. When the machine starts running it remain closed
for a little time in order to straightening of yarns. After the machine comes in running they open
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4.7.6 Headstock:
Figure: Headstock
At the headstock, the warpers beam is installed for winding. The beam width is 1800mm. A guide roller
guides the yarns to the warpers beam. A pressing roller presses the warp sheet on the warpers beam
for winding with proper tension.
The yarn build-up is determined by the tension of the warp threads and the press roller force. Uniform
thread tension from the middle of the beam to the outside, i.e. from the front to the rear ends in the
creel, must be assured. The press roller must ensure compact winding and absolute cylindricity.
The first requirement for non-crossed ends is precision thread guidance with minimal free thread
lengths from zigzag comb to beam. It must be possible to match the width of the thread sheet exactly to
the beam width to avoid errors at the flanges.
The presser roll is of hard paper and has strong end rings to prevent damage. The increasing yarn
diameter on the beam forces the press roller back against the resistance of the pre-set pressing force.
Thanks to this indirect pressing action the winding is always perfectly cylindrical. Upon braking, the press
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roller is immediately swung away hydraulically. All friction between roll and yarn is avoided.
The standard equipment is intended for back beams with 40 toothed internal taper. The teeth ensure
exact centering as well as non-slip drive and braking. The machine can also be configured to
accommodate journal beams. To avoid rolled-in threads, in the event of a thread break the direct
warper must be able to be stopped in a short distance, even at the highest speeds and with a fully
wound beam. This is performed by hydraulically operated disc brakes mounted to the both sides.
Figure: V-reed
From the creel, the yarns are passed through the expandable zigzag comb. The required warpers beam
width required can be set with the help of this comb.
Simple insertion of the threads into the comb. The stepped comb is moved apart to simplify laying in the
ends. The lateral alignment of the comb on the beam and the setting to the exact warp width are motor-
driven. The horizontal comb movement guarantees uniform yarn build-up on the beam. The traverse
can be set steplessly. Due to the vertical movement, the life of the comb is increased.
4.8 Calculations:
Some examples are given below to show the concept of warping plans.
Problem: 01
If Weight of Bag: 50 Kg
Total Number of Cone: 18
Count: 7 OE
Then find out the length of yarn in one cone.
Solution:
= 32926 m
Problem: 02
12 7 9 12
Average Yarn Count =
4 9 12 + 4 7 12 + 4 7 9
= 8.89
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Problem: 03
= 790 Kg
Page40
Chapter Five
Page41
5.1 Definition:
The process by which a textile material is to be changed physically or chemically, so that it looks mono
uniform colored is called dyeing. All commercial textile dyeing processes take place by the application of
a solution or a dispersion of the dyes to the textile material followed by some type of fixation process.
The dye solution or dispersion is almost always in an aqueous medium. A major objective of the fixation
step is normally to ensure that the coloured textile exhibits satisfactory fastness to subsequent
treatment in aqueous wash liquors. Dyeing is mainly depends on the type of fabric, structure of fabric
and the properties of dyes.
1. Dye molecules come to the fabric surface from the dye bath.
2. Fibre absorbs the dye molecule from the outer surface of the fibre to the internal surface of the
cellulose.
3. Migrates the dye molecules everywhere of the fibre molecules.
4. Anchoring or fixing the dye molecules to the fibre molecules by hydrogen or covalent bond.
Indigo, sulphur and indanthrene are mainly used in the dyeing process. Two methods are applicable for
continuous dyeing with indanthrene dyes: rapid dyeing and vat dyeing. While processing the basic
colored denim, reactive dyes are used and fixed with hot caustic soda solution. The dyeing process is
mainly influenced by the dyestuff characteristics, dyeing temperature and necessary chemicals used in
the process. Indigo dye is the most popular choice as it has good depth of shade and suitable rubbing
and washing fastness.
When cotton yarn is dyed with indigo, it leaves a ring-dyeing effect, because of which the outer layer of
warp yarn is coated with indigo, and the core of the yarn remains undyed. This gives the denim garment
a unique faded look and a rich blue shade after repeated use and wash. Originally, the warp yarns or
ends were put through the dye bath side by side to form a sheet of yarn, which passed continuously
through several dye baths, squeeze rollers or airing sequences. Specially two types of dyes are
commonly used in factory. Vat dye and sulphur dye. These two types of dyes are described below.
Aqueous Dispersion:
Page43
Vatting:
This step involves the chemical reduction of the vat dye to produce the soluble, reduced or leuco form
of the dye. This is achieved by Sodium Hydrosulphite, Sodium Hydroxide and water. The sodium
hydrosulphite chemically reduces the vat dye in the alkaline conditions created by the presence of
sodium hydroxide.
fibres, and by poor rinsing and soaping after dyeing. The dyeing can then be subsequently treated to
produce the faded worn look by removing the surface colour. Although cellulosic goods dyed with
sulphur dyes usually have good washing fastness, it can be further improved by resin finishing. The light
fastness varies from moderate to good in heavy shades. A major characteristic of sulphur dyes is the
poor fastness to chlorine, which distinguishes them from most quinone vat dyes. Dyeings with sulphur
dyes cannot be bleached with hypochlorite. In fact, these dyes are readily distinguished from other
cotton dyes by their dark, dull colours and the bleaching that occurs when a dyeing is spotted with
hypochlorite and allowed to dry. Cotton dyed with some sulphur blacks becomes tendered on storing
under warm humid conditions. This is a consequence of the formation of sulphuric acid from oxidation
of the sulphur dye in the fibres. It can be minimized by thorough washing after dyeing before the
oxidation of the leuco dye, by a final alkaline rinsing with soda ash solution, and by resin finishing. Such
tendering is avoided by dichromate oxidation of the leuco dye.
Sulphur dyes usually have acceptable substantivity, particularly in the presence of salts, so that stripping
in a fresh reducing bath is not easy. Dyeing is often conducted at the boil but this decreases the degree
of exhaustion. Sulphur dyes require less salt than reactive dyes and usually have reasonable exhaustion.
Low sulphide leuco dyes require more salt and no polysulphide. They do not give good exhaustion in
heavy shades and the use of a low liquor ratio is recommended. For popular shades such as black, it has
long been common practice to use a standing bath. This is a dye bath that is re-used for subsequent
dyeings after addition of more reduced dye. Any free sulphur that tends to accumulate is dissolved by
addition of sodium sulphite to give thiosulphate. This prevents it sticking to the goods. The actual dyeing
temperature can vary. At higher temperatures around the boil, the bath exhaustion is less but
penetration of the leuco dye into the fibres is better than at lower temperatures.
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1. Rope Dyeing
2. Slasher or Sheet Dyeing
3. Loop Dyeing
Indigo rope dyeing was started in USA. Today rope dyeing accounts for a large percentage of warp yarn dyed for denim production. The system
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offers highest production, due to continuous process, as there is no stoppage for set changes. In this dyeing method, maximum continuity of
shades and minimum danger of center to selvedge shade variation can be achieved. Flow diagram of rope dyeing is shown in figure. During
dyeing process, it forms a coating in the outer layers of the cotton yarn and fiber. This produces a ring of color around the cotton yarn, with the
core remains white core. This dyeing effect is known as ring dyeing.
Figure: Rope dyeing and subsequent sizing, Step 1: Ball Warper, Step 2: Rope Dyeing, Step 3: Long Chain Beamer, Step 4: Sizing
Indigo Rope Dyeing when dyeing according to the rope dyeing or cable dyeing method. 350 - 400 warp threads are bound on the ball warper to
very thick cables of 10000 - 15000 m length. On the continuous dyeing installation, 12 to 36 cables are led side by side, wetted, dyed and dried
after the dyeing process on cylinders and put into cans. Then the cables are dissolved to warps on the long chain beamer. The warps are added
to the sizing machine, sized and then led together to warp depending on the total numbers of threads. In practice, this method has proven to be
very good through obtaining an optimum indigo dyeing. However it is important that the cables have a constant tension in order to avoid warp
stripes. The disadvantage compared to other methods is that yarn breakages do occur more often.
Page48
Md. Israfil Alam Rana, israfil_tex@yahoo.com, cell: 01717123339
PARTEX DENIM
Moreover, each yarn wets much faster and in this way reduces the dipping and wetting times during dyeing. All in all, each thread has a larger
surface compared to a dyeing cable and this requires somewhat more hydrosulphite to prevent a premature oxidation of the indigo.
Page49
Md. Israfil Alam Rana, israfil_tex@yahoo.com, cell: 01717123339
PARTEX DENIM
5.8 Sizing:
5.8.1 Definition:
The process of applying a protective adhesive coating upon the yarn surface is called sizing. This is the
most important operation to attain maximum weaving efficiency specially for blended and filament
yarns.
Function:
To improve the strength
To increase smoothness
To increase elasticity
To increase stiffness
To impart adhesion
Function:
To make the yarn soft and slippery
To smoothen the yarn
To reduce the stiffness
To reduce flexibility and friction
Page53
Function:
Function:
Functions:
Function:
Function:
Function:
Page55
Sewing section
Accumulator BL
Pre-drying cylinder
Accumulator TA
Size bath
Accumulator BN
Some other assisting areas in the dyeing and sizing process are-
Skying zone
Dye kitchen
Size kitchen
Blower
Reserves tank
Size cooker
Beam crane
Yarn sheet spreader roller
Reactor (K-910):
The dyestuff is prepared in stock solution tank, it may happen some times that the dyestuff may get
coagulate and the function of Reactor is to break the coagulated dyestuff.
There is a separate arrangement of- Hydrogen peroxide Tank, Acetic Acid Tank, D Black Tank, Reducing
agent Tank, Tenside, Caustic Soda, Normal water & Also Hot water (50o C) tank respectively.
The beams can be controlled in groups or individually. The let-off can be individual let-off, single group
let-off or warp- round let-off. There are two creels present on the machine in order to replace the used
creel quickly with a creel on which beams are already installed.
The back beams are mounted in the back beam unit with insert able journals. The Unwinding tension is
imparted by pneumatically loaded and automatically regulated band brakes and break shoes. The upper
beam supports can be shifted pneumatically making it easier to mount the bottom beam.
Most important part of creel section is Benlink or yarn sewing section. Benlink is the process of joining
the previous warp sheet with next warp sheet.
5.10.2 Benlink:
Benlink tape is used for this process. It is costly. Benlink tape heated for almost 46 min. Before Belting
Separating, rods are removed to pass through tape before entering warpers beam.
In case of ring Denim higher count is set at front side of creel section for example. If we use 7 S, 9S, 12S
then first 4 pre beams contain yarn of 12S.
In case of slub; if we use 4 pre beam for slub then first 2 slub, then regulary again 2 slub at middle.
5.10.3 Accumulator:
Here pairs of Roller moving ups-down to maintain proper tension on yarn. It also performs the storage
of yarn. There are 3 accumulators used, one is after creeling before dyeing next is after dyeing before
sizing and final one is after sizing before weavers beam. Dyeing & sizing is a continuous process.
Accumulator stored extra yarn by going up pair of R/r, during this time necessary work such
replacement of weavers beam is done, then again Accumulator come s its original position. Remember
that, for linear yarn tension of accumulator is low & for coarse Yarn, tension is high. Load cell Roller used
here for maintaining yarn tension.
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In some cases, if well penetration of the dye is required, the yarns are treated with strong caustic soda
solution followed by hot wash and cold wash treatment prior to dyeing. The pH of the bath is 11.8-12.
Safety device
Window
Yarn sheet
Immersion roller
Clod washing is done after hot washing in order to reduce the temperature of the warp sheet. Before
dying, washing is important for better penetration of dye molecules in the fibre.
Yarn sheet
Immersion roller
5.10.6 Dyeing:
As discussed above denim warp sheet is dyed with Indigo (Vat) dyes and sulfur dyes. There are some
options in dyeing of warp sheet.
Indigo (Regular): In this case we use indigo in all tanks. According to shade.
Bottoming: In this case another dye is applied before dyeing with indigo. First the warp sheet is
dyed with sulfur dye (black color) and then it is washed and then dyed with indigo.
Topping: In this case the warp sheet is dyed with indigo in start and then it is washed and then it
is dyed with another dye (normally with sulfur).
Pure Black: In this case the warp sheet is dyed with sulphur dye (black color) with high
concentration of color.
Squeeze roller
Window
Immersion roller
Washing is done after dyeing bath in order to remove unfixed dye. There are three wash box in this
machine. The wash boxes are similar as pre wash box.
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Step 1 Pre-wetting:
Step 2 Pre-washing:
Step 3 Dyeing:
Step 4 Post-washing:
Step 1 Pre-wetting:
Step 2 Pre-washing:
Step 3 Dyeing:
Step 4 Post-washing:
Step 1 Pre-wetting:
Step 3 Dyeing:
Step 4 Post-washing:
Step 1 Pre-wetting:
Bath Components Quantity
Caustic Soda As required
Wetting Agent As required
D - 100 Temperature (80-90) o C
Squeezing Pressure (40-50) kN
Water As required
Step 2 Pre-washing:
Bath Components Quantity
D 200 Normal water As required
D 220 Squeezing Pressure 70-80 kN
D 240 Temperature Room temp.
Step 3 Dyeing:
Step 4 Post-washing:
Dyeing Procedure:
At first necessary chemicals and water is given according to recipe in preparation tank. Then dyestuff is
prepared. K- 915 & K-920 are used for the preparation of Indigo& Black dyestuff respectively. For Indigo,
reducing agent is Sodium Hydrosulphite and for black, Reducing agent either Sodium Sulphide or
Glucose (only for Liquid Black). A good monitoring near preparation tank is necessary. Then both
preparation is taken to mixing tank from where goes to dye bath. Level is maintained between mixing
tank and dye bath. Sensor is attached with every bath which helps to maintain pH. Dye take up
happened form Dye bath due to continues yarn passing. Flow meter used to show reading of every
component like sulphur black, Reducing agent, Tensid, NaOH, Water.
There are some reserver tanks, known as buffer tank. Two buffer tank for dye, one for pre dyeing and
other for mercerizing. Then it is necessary to blank the mixing tank. At this moment, mixture goes to
buffer tank to storage.
To maintain recipe standard it needs continuous dozing. Dozing motor used for this purpose. It
maintained systematically, any shortage shown at flow meter, also shown at computer screen.
Necessary steps then taken.
N2 used at dye bath to prevent Indigo or black dyestuff fixation .There is a arrangement of sky roller
used for dye fixation & squeezing roller for removing excess dye. Before entering into the sizing box the
warp yams are dried out. This is known as pre-drying.
The computer-controlled dosing system for dyestuff and chemicals is the heart of the machine. Indigo
vat, hydrosulphite and caustic soda are continuously added according to calculated quantity indications
and depending upon speed. Color Unlevelness owing to fluctuations in bath concentrations does no
longer occur. Owing to the high circulation rate of the dye liquor in two circuits, local bath concentration
differences are avoided. The metering control stores the required adjustment parameters and
guarantees a high level of process reliability and reproducibility.
The used dyes can also be preserved with the help of two storage tanks on the machine. Useless dye is
drained easily from the tanks with the pipes connected at their bottom.
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5.10.8 Accumulator:
Accumulator is also known as compensators. After drying an accumulator is provided on the machine.
Whose function is to minimize chance of stoppage of machine because of the change of beam on the
head stock and insertion of rods in the leasing zone they accumulate the extra warp when the speed is
reduced from the headstock by moving assembly to upward direction. When the head stock is moved
with a greater speed the excess warp is removes from the accumulator.
5.10.9 Sizing:
Although the quality and characteristics of the warp yarns coming out of the winding, warping and
dyeing processes are quite good, they are still not good enough for the weaving process for most of the
yarns. The weaving process requires the warp yarns to be strong, smooth and elastic or extensible to
certain degree. To achieve these properties on the warp yarns, a protective coating of polymeric film
forming agent (size) is applied to the warp yarns prior to weaving. This process is called slashing or
sizing.
One sizing tank is provided after the drying zone. The capacity of the size box is about 500 liters. Sizing
material is provided automatically by dosing system or it can be manually added.
Feed roller
Size liquor
Size bath
Unsized yarn
The size liquor level in the size box has to maintain. The liquor in the size box is measured with a sensor
to regulate the specified level. There is a regulating Valve, it works on PLC (programmable logic circuit)
method. Generally size level is maintained by passing 180mm size liquor .when this level comes down
to 120-130 mm then regulating valve is open ,pass the size liquor & maintain the level. The temperature
of the size box is maintained by the steam. Simultaneously the application of the pneumatic squeeze
presser with air cushion cylinder to regulate the squeeze presser & achieve the uniform size pickup.
Refractometer:
A refractometer is a laboratory or field device for the measurement of an index of refraction. This meter
is used in sizing to measure the reflection of light in size liquor. Page71
Figure: Refractometer
5.10.12 Accumulator:
After drying another accumulator is provided on the machine. Its function is same as previous.
5.10.15 Beaming:
The yarns are wound on to weavers beam at the headstock. A pressing roller is pressing the warp yarn
for uniform tension winding. A guide roller guides the yarns to the weavers beam.
Acetic acid:
Acetic acid is used to neutralize the pH.
Reducing Agent:
Reducing agent is used in reduction reaction of water insoluble dye as like vat dye. Insoluble dye particle
is covered on the surface by another insoluble layer, the reduction is restricted to the available external
surface of the Vat dye particles. When the dye is treated with a solution of reducing agent (Na2S2O4)
surface of dye particles coming into contact with the solution and gets reduced & produced insoluble
Leuco Vat acid.
Wetting Agent:
Wetting agent helps to increase the uptake of the dye by the fiber. Here Tenside is used as wetting
agent. A continuous flow of Nitrogen is supplied to the dye bath in order to prevent oxidation.
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Sizing Chemicals
Commercial Name Manufacturer Country
Acrylic Size PCB PD PENTA CHEMICAL Pakistan
Ben Tex K-2000 BENTEX Thailand
Size Ben Tex B-120 BENTEX Thailand
Size Ben Tex B-99 BENTEX Thailand
Size Ben Tex B-60 BENTEX Thailand
Native Tapioca Starch UGA Thailand
Emsize E20 EMSLAND GROUP Germany
Emsize E60 EMSLAND GROUP Germany
Page75
5.14 Calculation:
Problem: 01
Given,
Shade: 1.7%
Count: 7 OE
Total Ends: 4464
Set Length: 16400 m
Find required amount of dye.
Solution:
590.5
We know, Tex = = 84.36
7
84.36 4464
Weight of 4464 ends = = 376.58 g/m
1000
1.7
1 gm yarn contain gm dye
100
1.7 6175912
6175912 gm yarn contain gm dye
100
= 104990.504 gm dye
= 105 Kg dye
Answer: 105 Kg dye required to dye 16400 meter yarn of 4464 ends.
Page76
Chapter Six
Weaving
Page77
6.1 Definition:
The process of producing a fabric by interlacing warp and weft threads is known as weaving.
The machine used for weaving is known as weaving machine or loom. Weaving is an art that has been
practiced for thousands of years. The earliest application of weaving dates back to the Egyptian
civilization. Over the years, both the process as well as the machine has undergone phenomenal
changes. As of today, there is a wide range of looms being used, right from the simplest handloom to
the most sophisticated loom.
Most of the other weaves are derived from these basic weaves. The immediate derivatives of these
structures are warp rib, filling rib, and basket weave.
The sum of the digits in the formula determines the unit cell of the design, which also gives the
minimum number of harnesses, requires weaving the design; at least three harnesses are required for a
twill weave.
Common twill, Steep twill, Reclining twill and broken twill are the different variations of the twill weave.
Figure: 3/1 Right Hand Twill (RHT) Figure: 3/1 Left Hand Twill (LHT)
Rapier
Projectile
Air-Jet
Water-Jet
Page79
Yarn is drawn from a filing supply package by the filing feeder and each pick is measured for the filling
insertion by means of a stopper. Upon release of the filling yarn by the stopper, the filling is fed into the
reed tunnel via tandem and main nozzles, which provide the initial acceleration. The relay nozzles
provide the high air velocity across the weave shed. Profiled reed provides guidance for the air and
separates the filling yarn from the warp yarn.
Single Rapier Machines: A single, rigid rapier is used in these machines. The rigid rapier is a metal or
composite bar usually with a circular cross section. The rapier enters the shed from one side, picks up
the tip of the filling yarn on the other side and passes it across the loom width while retracting.
Therefore, a single rapier carries the yarn in one way only and half of the rapier movement is wasted.
Also there is no yarn transfer since there is only one rapier. The single rapiers length is equal to the
width of the loom.
Double Rapier Machines: Two rapiers are used in these machines. One rapier, called the giver, takes the
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filling yarn from the yarn accumulator on one side of the loom, brings it to the center of the machine
and transfers it to the second rapier which is called the taker. The taker retards and brings the filling
yarn to the other side. Similar to the single rapier machines, only half of the rapier movements is used
for filling insertion.
6.5 Looming:
Looming covers the process involved in warp preparation after sizing up to setting them to loom. The
process can be shown as follows:
During slashing, the exact number of warp yarns required in fabric is wound on to the loom (or
weaver's) beam. The warp ends are then passed through the drop wires of the warp stop motion, the
heddles of the harness frames and the dents at the reed. This can be achieved by drawing -in or tying -
in, the choice depending upon whether or not the new warp is different form the warp already on the
loom.
6.6 Drawing-In:
The process of drawing every warp end through its drop wire, heddle eye and reed dent can be
performed manually or by means of automatic machines. In both case, a length of warp yarn, just
enough to reach to the other side of the frame, is unwound. Leasing (i.e. selecting warp) of the warp at
this stage simplifies the separation of the yarns. Then they are threaded through drop wires heddle eyes
and reed dents. The automatic drawing machine can handle the leasing-in and drawing -in process in
one single operation.
6.7 Tying-In:
When fabric of a particular type is being mass-produced, the new warp beams will be identical with the
exhausted beams on the looms. Therefore, if every end on the new beam is tied to its corresponding
end on the old beam, the drawing-in process can be omitted. Tying-in may be done by means of a small
portable machine on the loom or as a separate operation away from the loom.
Primary motions
Secondary motions
Tertiary motions
Page83
Primary Motion
Page84
Md. Israfil Alam Rana, israfil_tex@yahoo.com, cell: 01717123339
PARTEX DENIM
Shedding Components:
Heald frame
Cam
Alternate vertical movements according to the evolution of the warp yarn and the passage of the picks
drive the heddles. Healed frame or heddles consists of a wooden frame, which consist of healed wires.
To provide straight path for the passing of the warp. These are twisted and metallic wires, which slides
on flat bars within the frame.
Cam / Tappet:
The purpose of the cam is to control the motion of harness frames, the lift of reed and the weave
pattern. Possible weave patterns of fabric are 1/1, 2/1, 3/1 and 4/1. There are 4 cams in the air jet loom
and a single cam is double plated. The cam acquires special curved shape. Different cam setting can be
used for different weave pattern. It is the required condition that the machine revolution should match
with gear system gear ratio is adjusted according to the weave pattern.
Healed Shaft:
A healed shaft consists of a wooden or metal frame carrying healed wires. The width of a healed shaft is
slightly greater than that of the warp sheet and is usually 36 to 48 cm deep.
To carry healed wires and maintain warp yarns in their correct positions
To form a shed line.
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Cone Stand:
The purpose of this stand is to hold the cones. The main components of cone stand are:
Cone holder
Disc
Tensioner
Cone Holder:
The shape of the cone holder is a little bit like an aero plane. It contains two propeller shape rubber
stopper so as to stop the forward and backward slippage of the cone during running condition and to
provide grip.
Plastic Disc:
The weft yarn from the cones passes through a plastic disc provided with the hole in the center the
purpose of this hole is to allow the weft yarn to pass through the disc setting of the disc is in such that at
a time of weft yarn from the first and fourth or the last weft yarn passes through the first and second
disc respectively. The distance between the discs can be adjusted with the help of the spring provided
with the nut. From the disc the weft yarn is delivered to the Tensioner.
Tensioner:
The use of tensioner is to give tension to the weft yarn otherwise the weft yarn coils within its self. This
tensioner consists of two small discs or plates. A spring is also provided at the side of one disc so that
the discs can adjust themselves according to the count of the weft yarn. If count is fine then low tension
is required whereas coarser count needed relatively higher tension. The alignment of the disc and the
cone is in such a way that a free path is provided to the weft yarn.
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Package
Yarn
Movable Main
FD1 FD2
PFT Nozzle
Fixed Main
Balloon Filling Selvedge
Pre winder Balloon Nozzle Relay Relay
Breaker Cutter Cutter
Breaker Valve Nozzle
Package stand
Back Rest
Drop Wires
Reed Fabric Roll
Heald Frames
Stand
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Weavers Beam Batcher
Disk
Back Rest
Drop Wires
Reed Fabric Roll
Heald Frames
Stand
Page88
Weavers Beam Batcher
Cone break detector detects filling yarn breaks that occur between the cone and prewinder. The cone
break detector stops the weaving machine before the prewinder is empty. Cone break detector
between the cone and the prewinder prevents starts up marks.
Filling tensioner are necessary to ensure a most uniform yarn tension between the cones and prewinder
drum, therefore ensuring an absolute uniform tension under filling yarn winding without any loop
formation.
The prewinder draw filling yarn from a cone, winding it on the winder drum which in turn, makes for
gentle pick insertion. The weft yarn is drawn off the package and wound on to measuring bands and
fingers by the rotating motion of thread guiding tube. The diameter of the measuring band can be
adjusted according to the width of the loom. Adjusting the measuring bands and the number of coils
sets the pick length. The electro magnetically controlled stopper pin releases the weft yarn at the
machine angle set.
Storage Control:
As it takes time to rise the motor rpm to the standard rpm at starting required weft yarn for next
insertion is wound in advance to secure smooth weft insertion. While the loom is running,
corresponding length weft yarn to one insertion is supplied to the prewinder, and storage is controlled
in the prewinder.
Measuring Control:
One pick length of weft yarn is measured by releasing or hooking solenoid FDP pin electrically. There are
two timings; one is for the first pick at starting and the other is preceding pick at normal operation.
These timings secure accurate measuring, storage, measuring and weft insertion are controlled by
output of signal command.
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Balloon Breaker:
The balloon breaker reduces the balloon dimensions when drawing yarn from the prewinder. The closer
the prewinder to the balloon breaker, the smaller the yarn balloons. When weaving heavy filling yarns,
there is the potential to increase the rate of insertion when using a balloon breaker.
Main Nozzle:
Nozzle is a duct of smooth varying cross section in which air is used to accelerate weft yarn through the
shed across the width of fabric. On air jet weaving machines in each channel there are two main nozzles,
one is fixed and other is movable.
Relay Nozzles:
Relay nozzle mounted in sley are connected in groups to electromagnetic valves. The electromagnetic
relay nozzle valve starts the air jet. The length of time the valve is opened depends on the reed width
and relay valve spacing as well as on the yarn. The compressed air is distributed from the compressed air
tank via the valves to the nozzles.
Relay nozzles are arranged over the entire length of the reed, the relay nozzles assists the movable main
nozzle in blowing the pick through the reed guiding channel. These relay nozzles are divided up into
groups, in that each group of nozzle is served independently by a relay nozzle valve. These valves are
driven such that the rate of insertion is correct and that yarn flow is uniform.
Filling Cutter:
The function of cutter cuts the filling at the left hand and right hand side of an insertion. The cutter is
driven by the motor and is completely independent of the machine drive. The position, the movement
of cutting and the condition of the filling cutter are very important for the insertion. Cutter is mounted
on both ends of the fabric. On yarn supply side, yarn is securely cut every time reed is beaten. On driving
side preceding yarn is cut between the temple and the space roll. The motion of the cutter cam attached
to the main shaft is transmitted through cutter cam lever and cutter rod to cutter edge.
Filling Detectors:
The filling detectors or sometimes called feelers mounted at the reed holder on the loom and the end of
Page90
the driving side photo electrically monitors whether there is weft yarn arrive or not.
Beating Components:
Sley:
The sley is a metal frame. In case of air jet contains profile reed, relay nozzles, filling detector, stretch
nozzle and side detector. At its forward motion the last pick is beaten up to the fell of the cloth, and at
its forward motion the weft is allowed to insert through relay nozzles through the open shed. The heavy
reciprocating sley with the help of a reed firmly beats up the last pick to the fell with the sufficient
velocity.
Reed:
The reed is an arrangement if vertical steel wires spaced a given distance apart a securely fastened at
the top and bottom by the bindings. The spaced between two wires is known as "dent". Reeds are made
with any desire number of dents per inch, according to the requirements of the cloth that is to be
woven. A reed contains a definite number of dents on a given length; this is termed as the count, the
pitch, or the number of reed. The reeds are named differently. Reeds are named from the number of
dents contained in one inch. The shape and thickness of the metal wires used in the reed is important.
Reed selection depends on several considerations including fabric appearance, fabric weight (ends per
unit width), beat up force, air space requirements and weave design.
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Take-up motion
Let-off motion.
Secondary
Motion
Positive Positive
Negative Negative
Page92
Tertiary Motion
6.8.3.3 Brake:
The brake stops the loom immediately whenever required. The weaver uses it to stop the loom to repair
broken ends and picks.
The speed of the motor is controlled electronically, without a frequency converter, thus reducing power
consumption and permitting greater flexibility. The shed crossing time is set entirely from the display.
This combination of the Sumo motor with electronic settings makes it easy to obtain the highest
possible industrial speeds taking into account the yarn quality, number of harnesses and weaving
pattern, and considerably reduces the set-up times.
6.9.6 Easy fitting and removal of warp beam and cloth roll:
The warp beam is driven by an electronically controlled let-off system via a separate gearwheel that
remains on the machine. Fitting the warp beam and changing the cloth roll are done by means of quick
connections - no tools are required.
The Electronically-controlled Low Continuous Airflow (ELCA) system holds the filling yarn in the ideal
position during the non-insertion period. The digital setting for each channel prevents the yarn
unraveling.
The new D-type relay nozzle has 16 holes instead of 19, which makes it more efficient for the same air
pressure. Air consumption can be reduced with up to 15%.
The new Diamond-Like Coating (DLC) on the relay nozzles ensures a significantly longer lifetime when
weaving abrasive yarns. The electro-magnetic valves on the relay nozzles have been redesigned and are
easy to reach, so that changing the width can be done quickly and easily. The airlines between valve and
relay nozzle have been made as short as possible, thus further reducing air consumption.
Name Brand
Heald Frame Heddle Frames
Dobby Stubli
Reed Burckle, Blue
Take Up Grob, Picanol
Drop Wire Grob
Air Blower Sohler, Electrojet
Winding m/c Brandt
Knotting m/c Fischer Poege
Electric Cable BBI Electronic
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6.11 Selvedge:
Selvedge is an important role for further processing of a fabric. Air-jet weaving machine can be equipped
with various types of selvedge formation devices. Several machinery manufacturers incorporate
different types of selvedge formation devices as per requirement of the end products.
Types of Selvedge:
(Rapier, Airjet)
Fringed Selvedge
Tucked-in Selvedge
(Projectile, Rapier, Airjet)
Dummy Selvedge
(Rapier, Airjet)
Twisted Selvedge
Stitched Selvedge
Page99
6.12 Calculation:
Problem: 01
Given:
Solution:
Problem: 02
Given,
Actual Production = 188773 pick
Calculated Production = 192000 pick
Find out efficiency?
Solution:
Actual Production
We know, Efficiency = 100 %
Calculated Production
188773
= 100 %
192000
= 98.32 %
Problem: 03
Given,
99
Fabric construction = 64"
66 47
Weave = 3/1
R.P.M = 600
Efficiency = 80 %
Find out production per hour in yards?
Solution:
rpm time x efficiency
We know production/hr=
PPI 36
600 60 .80
=
47 36
= 15.64 yds/hr
Problem: 04
Given,
99
Fabric construction = 64"
66 47
Weave = 3/1
R.P.M = 600
Efficiency = 90 %
Find out weft yarn consumption in cone?
Solution:
Length of a pick = 72
Length of 600 pick = 600 x 72 = 43200 inch = 1097 meter
42300
Answer: Total cone required = 12
Chapter Seven
Finishing
Page102
7.1 Definition:
In general, before marketing, all the process which are applied on the fabric after weaving is called
finishing.
In short sense, finishing is the process by which the fibers, yarns and fabrics are made as presentable to
the customer and these processes are implemented after coloration.
The term finishing covers all those treatments that serve to impart to the textile the desired end-use
properties. These can include properties relating to visual effect, handle and special characteristics such
as waterproofing and non-flammability.
Example: Starching, Mercerizing, resin finishing, Desizing, Water Repellent Treatment, Flame Retardant
Treatment, etc.
Page103
Denim Finishing:
Finishing of grey denim fabric normally carried out after weaving. It takes an important role in fabric
properties, appearance, softness and residual fabric shrinkage. The finishing of denim fabric is carried
out for several purposes. Finishing of denim fabric can be varied according to the specific requirement of
customer. The finishing process may vary from harsh hand (loom state), soft hand (desizing) and sulphur
over dyeing.
Proper finishing process is necessary otherwise the fabric will be rejected by the buyer. In case of denim
mainly controlling of the shrinkage and the skew of the fabric is done. Besides, finishing process finishing
section of Partex Denim have to do a lot of others job like fabric storing, inspection, sample processing
etc. So a finishing section in a denim industry plays a vital role. Finishing section of Partex Denim Ltd is
responsible for the following:
Finishing process
Quality control
Inspection
Sample processing and preservation
Finished fabric storing and delivery
The following types of finishes are applied to the denim fabric at Partex Denim.
Singeing
Softening
Skew control
Sanforizing
Calendering
Desizing
Mercerizing
Resin finishing
Page104
Machine Specification:
Brand Cibitex
Origin : Italy
Model : CBDENIM
Total machine : 02
Year of Manufacture : 2005
Roller width : 200 cm
Working width : 180 cm
Steaming cylinder dia : 64 cm
Shirking bench cylinder dia : 61.2 cm
Felt calendar cylinder dia : 200 cm
Felt calender drying cylinder dia : 80 cm
Mechanical speed : Up to 80m/min
Shrinkage value : Up to 18%
Average steam consumption at 6 bar : 1000 kg/hr
Average soft water consumption at 2-3 bar : 5-6 m3/hr
Power consumption : 106 Kw
7.5.1 Brushing:
In the brushing stage, the grey fabric is brushed to remove the loose lint and loose fluff from the fabric
surface. It also raised the protruding fibers on the fabric surface which are removed in the next stage of
singeing process.
7.5.2 J-Box:
Store the fabric for some while during the process. This unit is important when change of batcher.
Stored fabric supports the continuous operation.
7.5.3 Singeing:
The fabric is then singed in both or only face side which burn off the protruding fibers from the fabric
surface. Normally denim fabric is singed twice in a single passage of a singeing machine. The denim
finished fabric must have soft and pleasant handle.
Page106
Types of Singeing:
Singeing can be classified into two types:
1. Direct singeing
2. Indirect singeing
1. Direct singeing is the most popular procedure. The fabric passes either glowing metal with contact
(mainly for pile fabric) or a direct gas flame. Important for both techniques: when the machine
stops, the fabric is moved from the metal and the flame stops, too.
2. The indirect singeing works with highly heated ceramic modules. Infrared beams are burning the
Page107
Singeing Parameters:
Fabric speed (m/min)
Flame intensity (mbar)
Fabric temperature (oC)
Singeing positions
Burner fabric distance (mm)
7.5.4 Softening:
After the singing range, the fabric is subjected to a chemical pad treatment. Softeners are often used in
the chemical treatment in order to impart soft feeling of the fabric.
Ideally warp and weft should be at right angle to each other in normal fabric. Skew in the fabric occurs
when the warps are displaced from their vertical position or when the weft is displaced from their
horizontal position.
The leg twist is created due to tensions in the fabrics. It is related to the twill direction. Normally a right-
hand twill fabric twists in the counter clockwise direction. Similarly a left-hand twill fabric twists in the
clockwise direction. These leg twist problem can be eliminated through compensating the tensions by
deliberately skewing the fabric in the counter clockwise direction for right-hand twills (RHT) and in the
clockwise direction for left-hand twill (LHT).
Hence the RHT denim fabric should be skewed by advancing the right selvage with respect to the left
selvage in the fabric of face up. This results in counterclockwise skew. Similarly a LHT fabric should be
Page109
skewed by advancing the left selvage when run face up. The amount of the skew to be applied depends
upon many factors, such as the type of twill weave, the weight of the fabric, the yarn sizes, and the twist
of the yarns. The twill angle is also an important factor.
Normally the fabric straightness has only a single skew roller or a pair of rollers offset the same amount.
A single skew roller is not able to give a full 8% skew in a single passage in heavy weight denim fabric.
However, minimum two skew rollers, and preferably three or four skew rollers give better results.
In general, Z- twist cotton yarns generate right-handed skew. All S-twist yarns exhibit left hand skew. In
general open-end yarns result in less skew than the ring spun yarns.
When any woven fabrics are removed from looms, the warps and wefts start to contract each other in
order to undergo equilibrium condition. Hence the warp and weft yarn become closed to each other and
the free spaces between them reduced. It has observed that the type of deformation of fabric depends
upon many factors, among which the weave of the fabric (either plane or twill) is most important. The
forces acting on the yarns after removing the fabric from the weaving loom is shown in Figure.
Forces acting on the yarns after releasing the fabric from the weaving loom
The movement of yarn in a plain fabric The movement of yarn in a twill fabric
In case of plain weave fabric, the free spaces in warp and weft direction are equal. Hence the forces
acting on all sides of each float are equal, which makes the fabric more stable. However in case of twill
weave fabric, at the portion of a float; there is a gap or free space equal to the actual diameter of the
yarn. Due to this free space, there may be possible that the floating yarn push away the crossing yarn.
The floating yarn to push away the crossing yarn at the interlacing point
The two forces acting opposite to each other in the floats makes them like an in-plain lever (Fig. A). The
position of the free spaces on either side of the float determine the direction in which the float to be
skewed. For a right hand 2/2 twill fabric, the location of the free spaces, as shown in Fig. A will skewed
clockwise shown in Fig. B. For a left-hand 2/2 twill fabric, as shown in Fig. C, the floats will be skewed
anticlockwise.
Herringbone or any other types of zigzag twill, there is no risk of the fabric becoming skewed, as in such
Page111
weaves, floats (in-plane levers) act oppose to each other. The degree of skew movement depends upon
yarn characteristics, weaving tensions, and the fabric structures.
7.5.6 Dryer:
Wet fabric is dried in this section. Steam produced by boiler heating the cylinder drum. It increase the
inside temperature of the drum. The temperature can be adjusted by changing steam pressure. There
are 20 drums for drying.
7.5.7 Stenter:
Stenter is used for control the width of fabric by fixing a definite width.
7.5.8 Sanforizing:
Sanforizing is a mechanical finishing process of treating textile fabrics to prevent the normal dimensional
alternation of warp & weft. After sanforizing the residual shrinkage of woven fabric may be zero.
The sole objective of sanforizing is to control the length wise shrinkage of fabric. The maximum
percentage of shrinkage depends on fabric construction and quality but controlled according to the
customer specifications.
Shrinkage phenomenon:
During spinning, weaving, bleaching, dyeing and the various finishing processes, yarns and cloth are
under a continuous tension.
Yarns and/or fabrics are not fixed materials. They consist of separate, stretchable fibres which submit to
the tension. In other words, fabrics do stretch in length and width. The tension within the yarns, which is
caused by this stretching, can be eliminated when the friction within the fabric is reduced. This
reduction in friction occurs during laundering where both water and soap act as a lubricant. The
lubricant, along with the mechanical action of the washer, helps the fibres relax and contract to their
original length before the elongation takes place. This means that the fabric shrinks and recaptures its
original equilibrium.
chemicals.
The purpose of the process is to shrink fabrics in such a way that textiles made up of these fabrics do not
shrink during washing.
The amount of potential wash shrinkage must be determined prior to shrinking. A full width sample is
wash-tested according to the test method. After the lengthwise and widthwise shrinkage has been
determined, the compressive shrinkage machine can be adjusted accordingly.
The shrinking process takes place between the rubber belt and the heated shrinking drum. The pressure
roller presses the rubber belt against the shrinking drum and the belt is stretched. When the pressure of
the roller is relieved the belt shrinks again. The fabric inserted between the rubber belt and the drum
has to follow the shrinking of the belt and is itself shrunk. The fabric shrinkage can be varied by varying
the pressure of the roller on the rubber belt. The greater the roller pressure, the greater the shrinking.
The fabric is fed on the convex part of a drying cylinder and when the blanket retracts to the concave
section of the blanket, the cloth is physically forced to comply with the curvature and shrinks according
to the thickness of the blanket. The cylinder serves to hold the fabric on to the blanket and does not let
it slip back.
The excessive heat of the shrinking cylinder can cause damage to rubber belt. In order to prevent this,
perforated water pipes spray water on the belt as it leaves the fabric. This has two advantages;
The rubber belt is cooled down and prevented from surface hardening.
Very little water remains on the grainy surface of the rubber belt and absorbed by the fabric.
This results in good and easy shrinking process.
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7.5.9 Calendaring:
After grey fabric is subjected to singeing, softening, skewness, sanforizing etc. it is finally dried to retain
its true shape and dimensions. But in this state the fabric becomes least lustrous. Because for those
operations the threads in fabric become weavy and crimped. But if a fabric is to appear highly lustrous
then its surface should be parallel to each other and all should lie in the length direction.
Objects of Calendaring:
To cause a closing together of the threads of the fabric by flattening them and thus tending to
fill up the interstices between warp and weft.
To produce a smooth, glossy and highly lustrous appearance on the surface of the cloth.
To reduce fabric thickness.
To reduce air permeability and water permeability of fabric by changing its porosity.
High pressure
High temperature
Suitable degree of dampness
Besides these the number, composition & arrangements of pressure bowls and speed of running cloth
are also should be controlled carefully.
7.6 Mercerization:
Mercerization is a physio-chemical process where yarn (cotton) is treated with 15-25% caustic soda
solution at a temperature of 200-300C. It is necessary to hold the fabric under tension and wash
thoroughly.
Bath-8 pH control
The cellulose of the wall sweels inwards until the lumen is practically eliminated.
When the fibre is transferred to water and well washed. Shrinkage begins and on drying at room
temperature a further and final shrinkage occurs. During the last three shrinkage proceeds uniformly
towards the centre and the lumen does not recover its original size.
Percent stretch
Yarn construction
Yarn twist
Doubling of yarn
Degree of singeing
Application of tension
Rate of dyring
7.7 Desizing:
Desizing is the process of removing size materials from fabric. This is done simply passing the fabric
through some hot water bath for several times. Sometimes softener can be used for better removing of
size materials and also for better soft hand feeling.
Fabric Unwinding
Fabric Unwinding
J-box
Roller Printing
Coating
Stenter/Heat setting
Rolling
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Chapter Eight
Inspection
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The inspection department is working under the supervision of Mr. Mahfuz, Manager, Finishing. Ten
inspection frames of Taiwan are used. Input is finished fabric & output is inspected fabric roll.
Faults are scored with penalty points of 1, 2, 3 and 4 according to their size and significance.
Wrapping Machine:
Shrinking machine:
The defects which can remove when inspection is called removable defects.
The defects which cannot remove when inspection is called non removable defects.
Reed mark:
Snarl:
Double pick:
Warp breakage:
Causes: knotting is given, when yarn breaks, the yarn tension does not match with other yarn as
a result Loose or tight occurs.
Filling Stop:
Contamination:
Patti:
Crease Mark:
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Md. Israfil Alam Rana, israfil_tex@yahoo.com, cell: 01717123339
PARTEX DENIM
When 100 yards fabric inspections is completed then stop the operation & fabric is cut by scissor. Next,
types & no. of fault is converted into point system as mentioned below. This point is expressed as
percentage by using the following formula:
After calculation, the operator place the Identification sticker on the fabric roll with mentioning details
of the fabric as Order no, Usable width, Fault grade, Roll length, Total point, set, style etc.
Finally, Fabric roll goes to packing section & then Stored or delivery.
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Chapter Nine
Research & Development
(R&D)
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Partex Denim Ltd. has also a Research & Development (R&D) department with modern amenities which
correlates very well with the upcoming new product. Continuous research programmed is carried-on
here, which is completed by product development. The R&D department is independent and equipped
to promptly invent new designs for new fashion and develop buyers requirements timely. This
department keeps all documents from dyeing recipe to fabric construction and keeps master roll to keep
shade in same consistent even over a longer discontinuity. Partex always researches to develop new
fashion as per the world requirement as well as to maintain comfort & durability.
Most often this department creates new product on the basis of new design & structure by their own
creativity according to the current market demand and then give it to the buyer. If this design is
approved by the buyer then it is stored. They already developed over 5000 samples.
When an order comes from buyer in form of washed sample. The technical person determines the
shade percentage, amount and type of washing to that fabric to get the appearance like the sample. So
it is very important to wash the sample fabric to justify his assumption. For this purpose a small washing
unit is established in the factory.
Every order firstly comes into R&D department via marketing peoples by mail or swatch. The R&D
experts analyze these samples and match it with their developed samples. If they find similar samples
then this is sent to buyers for approve. If buyers approve it then the R&D section goes for production.
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Coated Denim
Samples according to Finish Printed Denim
The R&D department also performs different testing solutions. Most modern and efficient lab
instruments from Atlas, UK which is operated by trained technicians. The variable light box,
Spectrophotometer, Rubbing tester, Washing Fastness, Tensile strength tester etc. gives accurate results
and helps to keep quality good and more consistent.
Lab reports of a running lot are constantly maintained. After each process a sample for testing is sent by
the production staff usually after many meters of run. Lab reports contain information about various
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tests performed according to buyer requirements and their results with remarks of responsible staff
about the fabric.
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VF Asia-lee Gap
Kappahl
USA USA
Charles
Ralph Lauren Tema
Vogele
H&M Wal-Mart
Nautica
Sweden USA
Zara
Wrangler Lindex
UK
Reef C&A
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Md. Israfil Alam Rana, israfil_tex@yahoo.com, cell: 01717123339
PARTEX DENIM
Chapter Ten
Denim Wash
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Basic Concept:
Denim has been used as clothing material for centuries due to its high durability. But todays
fashion arena likes denim jeans due to its attractive shades, designs, attractive styles and
various types of wash appeal, rather than for its robustness. Denim jeans in the past were worn
in a raw, rigid and starch-finished form. But todays fashion requires various types of washing
treatments, such as desizing, enzymatic washing with or without stones, decolorization,
neutralization, brightening and finishing.
Normally denim washing is carried out in sewn garments. The denim jeans are subjected with
different washing techniques, such as rinse wash, bleach, enzyme wash, acid wash, stonewash,
moon wash, sand wash, sun wash, over dyed/ tinted look, whiskering, damaged, used look. In
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denim washing, enzymes played an important role to get clean, smooth, fuzz free fabric surface
with reduced tendency of pill formation and improved fabric handle. Traditionally, indigo denim
fabric is deep blue in shade. Denim finish may be of two types, such as raw denim and pre-
washed denim. In raw denim, the denim is not washed after weaving. Raw denim jeans shows
natural shade of indigo which is faded during wear and subsequent washes at home. However
in some cases it is believed that, raw denim is not practical as it creates some problems of rubs
off on other materials which come into contact with it. The unfixed dye on the surface of the
fabric may cause stains to other fabric.
In order to overcome this problems, denim jeans is washed after sewn. The main plus point of
pre-washing of denim jeans is that the colour is not transferred to other fabrics or surfaces
during wear.
1. Mechanical wash
2. Chemical wash
Denim Bleaching
Enzyme washing
Acid washing
Rinse wash
Cellulose wash
Ozone fading
Snow wash
Salt water denim
Flat finish
Over dye
Sun washing
Super dark stone
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Mechanical denim washes are stone washing and micro sanding. During stone washing, stones
are used in order to achieve typical wash down effect. There are three types of micro sanding,
such as:
Sand blasting
Machine sanding
Hand sanding
Whiskering
Shot gun denim
Water jet fading
Super stone wash
Ice wash
Thermo denim
Laser technology finish
Pre treatment:
This is very first & basic step but most important step of washing. Here the fate of denim
garment is decided that its going to appear good or bad. Good Pre treatments avoid streaking,
stiffness & color loss. This process removes impurities, starch & stains during handling of fabric.
This step is also called desizing (Removal of Size applied during denim fabric making in weft
yarn). All the woven fabric contains size on them due to reasons to strengthen the yarn for
weaving. There are many types of sizes available in the market but they can be divided in two
major groups.
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2. Dissolvable sizes in water (Starch based). Starch based sizes are most commonly used
due to cheap prices & readily availability.
10.2.1 Desizing:
The sized denim fabric consists of cellulose fiber coated with a film of starch. Cellulose and
starch are chemically related. During weaving the warp yarns are subjected to considerable
stress and strain due to fast moving reed and other machine parts. In order to prevent the end
breakages, the warp yarns are sized. Although several other substances have been developed,
still sizing is still based upon starch. The starch makes the cloth less absorbent which impairs
the uptake of bleaches, dyes, and other chemicals. Hence complete removal of the size is
extremely essential.
There are various methods of desizing. Traditional desizing is carried out with acid, alkali or
oxidative desizing agents. However, these chemicals having some limitations and
disadvantages. The cellulose material may be damaged and loses strength with these chemical
treatments.
With the introduction of desizing with enzymes (amylases), the limitation and drawbacks of
traditional desizing process has been removed. The enzymatic desizing is considered to be the
best and safest. Conventional desizing degrades the cellulose which is not occur in case of
enzymatic desizing. Enzymes are very specific in their action and act only on the starch without
reacting on cellulose.
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The enzymatic desizing process is performed by using alpha amylase enzyme which hydrolyses
the cellulose. The enzyme desizing process offers high efficiency and specific action. Amylases
completely remove the size. These enzymes are harmless to the fabric and are environment
friendly.
10.2.2 Bleaching:
Denim bleaching normally carried out with a strong oxidative bleaching agent such as sodium
hypochlorite or KMnO4. Bleaching may be carried out with or without the addition of stone. The
bleaching washing effect and de-coloration usually depends on strength of the bleach liquor,
liquor quantity, temperature and treatment time. The bleached fabric materials should be
properly antichlored or after washed with peroxide to reduced the subsequent yellowing or
tendering of the bleached denim fabric.
Limitations of bleaching:
There are some limitations of bleaching, such as:
machine parts.
In order to get the desired washed effect, the stone should be of proper hardness, shape, and
size. For heavy weight denim fabric large and hard stones are suitable and also last longer.
Similarly, smaller and softer stones are suitable for light weight denim fabrics.
The degree of colour fading during stone washing depends on several factors, such as, garment
to stone ratio, washing time, size of stones, material to liquor ratio and load of garments. The
washing time may varies from 40 - 120 min. Stones may be reused until they disintegrate
completely.
Pumice is a natural volcanic stone used for stone washing garments. It is crystallized with
substantive pores. Pumice is mostly used for stone washing due to its durability to chemicals
treatment, its strength and light weight.
Stone washing of denim fabric with pumice stones has some disadvantages and limitations,
such as:
Stones may cause wear and tear of the fabric and may damage to washing machine due
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It may also create the problem of environmental disposition of waste of the grit
produced by the stones.
Increase the labor cost to remove stone dusts from finished garments. The denim
garments is required to wash several times for complete removal of the stones.
The stone washing process may cause back staining and re-deposition.
The process is non-selective.
Metal buttons and rivets in the denim garments as well as the drum of the washing
machine sometimes get abraded which substantially reduces the quality of the garment
and the life of the equipment.
Enzymes are proteins, found in all living organisms, plants, as well as animals and
microorganism. All organisms produce a wide range of enzymes. Enzyme washing is ecologically
friendly due to the natural origins of enzymes. Enzymes basically catalyse specific chemical
reactions and are known as bio-catalysts. Enzymes act on living cells and can be work at
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During sand blasting process the garment are first subjected to stone wash to the desired
degree of washing. It is then sand blasted.
color and makes a white surface while the color remained in the lower layers of the material,
giving it a faded look. Acid was first launched in 1980s as a new innovative finish on denim
garments. This wash was being carried out by soaking stones in bleach and then followed by
neutralization.
Acid was of denim garment normally carried out by tumbling the garments with pumice stones
presoaked in a solution which contains sodium hypochlorite (5 to 10%) or potassium
permanganate (3 to 6%). This cause localized bleaching which produce non uniform sharp
blue/white contrast.
In this wash addition of water is not required. The color contrast can be increased by optical
brightening treatment. Acid washed denim fabric sometimes become yellowish after washing.
This is due to incomplete neutralization, washing or rinsing, so that manganese not removed
from the garment. However the manganese can be removed by washing with addition of
ethelene-diamine-tetra-acetic acid as chelating agent.
The process of acid washing jeans involves soaking of porous pumice stones and chlorine or
potassium permanganate (PP) bleach. Sodium-bisulfate is used for neutralization. It is
recommended to use two separate washing machines for Acid Washing & Neutralization etc.
Precautions:
During acid washing, the workers should wear mask & aprons. The operator should use
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Partex denim only gives washed sample receipe so that buyer can get his desired design but
does not run mass production.
1. Enzyme wash
2. Bleach wash
3. Stone wash
Desizing
Chemicals Temperature Time Rinse Extracting Drying
Anti-stain ET-2550
60-70 0C 20 minutes 2 Times 1 Time 60-800C
Superzyme ultra plus
Enzyme wash
Chemicals Temperature Time Rinse Extracting Drying
Anti-stain ET-2550
45 0C 20-30
Eurozyme-1100L 2 Times 1 Time 60-800C
pH: 4.5-5 minutes
Acetic Acid
Bleach Wash
Chemicals Temperature Time Rinse Extracting Drying
Bleaching
50-60 0C As required 3 Times 1 Time 60-800C
powder
Peroxide Wash
Chemicals Temperature Time Rinse Extracting Drying
Anti-stain ET-2550
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Neutralization
Chemicals Temperature Time Rinse Extracting Drying
Sodium
Room 5 minutes 2 Times 1 Time 60-800C
Thiosulphate
Softening
Chemicals Temperature Time Rinse Extracting Drying
Euro N5 soft
50 0C 5 minutes 2 Times 1 Time 60-800C
Euro Silk -2660
Sand wash:
Denim sand wash is carried out with pumice stones,
enzymes and sand in combination. This gives a aged
look in denim jeans.
Rinse wash:
Rinse wash denim is washed at about 500C in a hot
bath. Sometimes softener is used to soften the
fabric. Page147
Torn Jeans:
Some jeans are teared at some places in order to
get natural tearing look. The fabrics have actual rips,
holes, tears and/or lacerations.
Vintage Denim:
Flat Finish:
Flat finish of denim fabric involves mercerization
plus calendaring processes to achieve the flat
surface. It imparts an even wash down effect and
clean surface. The mercerization process swells up
the cotton fibers which is pressed in calendaring to
achieved a flat surface.
Ozone Fading:
In this technique of denim washing, the garment is
bleached with ozone dissolved in water in a washing
machine. However this technique can also be
carried out in a closed chamber by using ozone gas.
The advantages of these methods are:
There is minimum loss of strength
It is a simple method and environmentally friendly.
The ozonized water after laundering can easily be
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deozonized by UV radiation.
Dirty wash:
In this washing process, after stone-washing
treatment, the denim garments are dyed with
special chemicals. This shows a dirty looks to the
garments.
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Water-jet fading:
In this method of water jet fading, one or both surfaces of the denim garment are exposed
through hydro jet nozzles. This hydro jet treatment gives a patterning effect to the garments and
/or improves the surface finish, texture and durability of denim garment.
This process is not involved with any chemical, hence it is environmental friendly and more
economical. The required colour fading is achieved without affecting the fabric strength or
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Snow Wash:
This type of washing treatment for denim is a variation of acid wash. It gives bright white
highlights.
Sun Washing:
Sub washing of denim fabric imparts a sun faded appearance to denim garments. It is carried out
by bleaching and stoning of the denim garments.
Soft feel denim:
Soft feel denim can be made with the addition of softener at the garment stage.
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Chapter Eleven
Utilities
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11.1 Definition:
The definition of utilities can be expressed in many ways.
A company that generates, transmits and/or distributes electricity, water and/or gas from
facilities that it owns and/or operates.
An economic term referring to the total satisfaction received from consuming a good or service.
Production and profit are closely related. In order to get a quality final product, it needed fresh raw
materials as well as effective manpower and machinery in good working condition. Utility plays a vital
role to maximize the production as well as the profit.
A utility system used in industrial facilities. This area includes boilers, chillers, cooling towers, air
compressors, and their associated fluid distribution systems.
11.1.2 Boiler:
A steam generator or boiler is usually a closed vessel made of steel for supplying steam. Boiler function
is to therefore the heat produced by the combustion of fuel (here gas is used) to water and ultimately to
generate steam. The steam produced in the boiler section supplied to different section of mill.
Sizing
Finishing
Dyeing unit
Washing unit
Chiller
Figure: Boiler
Specification of Boiler:
Brand : MechMar
Country of Origin : Malaysia + England
Year of manufacture : 2005
Model : AS 2400/150 (24000 PPH)
Fuel used : Natural Gas
Power consumed : 25 kWh
Maximum steam output : 10.8 ton/hour
Water content : 15.45 m3
Fire tube : 130
Maximum heat capacity : 6.5 MW
Maximum working pressure : 10 bar
Gas pressure : 1.3 bar
Total tube : 130
Air: Fuel 4:1
Sparking input power : 240 V (AC)
Sparking output power : 1000 V (DC)
Key Features:
Designed and manufactured to the latest international standards.
Full wetback design thus minimizing radiation heat loss and refractory maintenance.
Large furnace volume assures high combustion efficiency and for a wide variety of fuels to be
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burnt efficiently.
Compact in construction yet designed for easy access, important for internal inspection,
cleaning and maintenance.
Full automated operation provided for control for burner system, steam pressure and for
failsafe operation.
11.1.3 Generator:
An electrical generator is a machine, which converts mechanical energy into electrical energy. The
energy conversion is based on the principle of the production of dynamically induced e.m.f. When a
conductor cuts magnetic flux, dynamically induced e.m.f. is produced in it according to flow if the
conductor circuit is closed.
Features:
12 cylinders turbocharged and intercooled
Fully integrated engine diagnostic and control system including:
Spark timing control
Turbocharger control
Speed governing
Individual cylinder knock detection
Air/Fuel ratio control
Fuel tolerance
High altitude capability
Low Btu option
Rich burn combustion
Page156
Figure: Generator
Machine Specification:
Brand : Waukesha
Total machine : 04
Country of Origin : USA
Year of manufacture : 2005
Fuel : Natural Gas
No. of inline cylinder :6
Firing Order : 1R-6L-5R-2L-3R-4L-6R-1L-2R-5L-4R-3L
Capacity : 900 kWh
Volt : 50 H.Z & 400 Volts
Speed : 1000 rpm
Machine Specification:
Brand : Kaeser
Country of origin : USA
Year of manufacture : 2005
Total machine : 08
Compressor Output : 20.5 m3/min/mc
Dryer Output : 52.5 m3/min/mc
Output Pressure : 9-9.5 bar
Power Consumption : 132 kWh/mc
Control Unit
Cooling section
Inlet Filter
Airends
Motor
Figure: Compressor
Features:
With one-to-one drive, the air end is directly connected to the motor via a maintenance-free
coupling that eliminates transmission losses.
Direct drive screw compressors deliver outstanding performance and increase energy savings.
It uses oversized air ends specifically selected to produce the required output in flow and
pressure.
Compared to compressors using small, high-speed, gear-driven air ends, the one-to-one drive
provides significant savings.
No-loss power transmission.
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Dryer:
The atmospheric air drawn into a compressor is a mixture of gases that always contains water vapors.
However, the amount of water vapor that air can carry depends on the temperature. As air temperature
rises which occurs during compression the air's ability to hold moisture increases also. When the air
is cooled its capacity to hold moisture reduces which causes the water vapor to condense. Removing the
moisture from the compressed air not only prevents costly breakdowns and production downtime, but
also keeps maintenance and repair costs to a minimum. Refrigeration drying is usually the most efficient
solution for the majority of compressed air applications.
Figure: Dryer
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Features:
Low pressure drop, non-fouling heat exchanger.
Low pressure drop filtered separator with microprocessor controlled filter monitor removes
liquids and particulates to 3 microns.
"No-loss" electronic Eco-Drain for reliable condensate removal.
On/off load digital scroll refrigeration compressor (Dual Control models only).
Hot gas bypass control (Demand Manager models only).
State-of-the-art control system with timed auto-start and stop.
Optional cold coalescing oil removal filter eliminates oil aerosols to 0.008 ppm.
11.1.5 Chiller:
A chiller can be generally classified as a refrigeration system that cools water. Similar to an air
conditioner, a chiller uses either a vapor compression or absorption cycle to cool. Once cooled, chilled
water has a verity of application from space cooling to process use.
Vaporisation Chiller
Absorption Chiller
Brand : LS
Model : LSH-W036S
Origin : Korea
Year of manufacture : 2005
Cooling capacity : 300 usRT
Chilled water flow rate : 181.4 m3/h
Chilled water temp. : 7-12OC
Cooling water flow rate : 334.7 m3/h
Cooling water temp. : 32-37OC
Heating source : Steam
Steam consumption : 1357 Kg/h
Steam pressure : 8 Kg/cm2G
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Brand : Spacco
Model : SPC 600 RT
Year of manufacture : 2005
Capacity : 2060 m3/h
Water in : 37OC
Water out : 32OC
Fan motor power : 20 HP
Air Capacity : 132400 m3/min
Absorption chillers use heat instead of mechanical energy to provide cooling. A thermal compressor
consists of an absorber, a generator, a pump, and a throttling device, and replaces the mechanical vapor
compressor.
The basic cooling cycle is the same for the absorption and electric chillers. Both systems use a low-
temperature liquid refrigerant that absorbs heat from the water to be cooled and converts to a vapor
phase (in the evaporator section). The refrigerant vapors are then compressed to a higher pressure (by a
compressor or a generator), converted back into a liquid by rejecting heat to the external surroundings
(in the condenser section), and then expanded to a low- pressure mixture of liquid and vapor (in the
expander section) that goes back to the evaporator section and the cycle is repeated.
The basic absorption cycle employs two fluids, the absorbate or refrigerant, and the absorbent. The
most commonly fluids are water as the refrigerant and lithium bromide as the absorbent. These fluids
are separated and recombined in the absorption cycle. In the absorption cycle the low-pressure
refrigerant vapor is absorbed into the absorbent releasing a large amount of heat. The liquid
refrigerant/absorbent solution is pumped to a high-operating pressure generator using significantly less
electricity than that for compressing the refrigerant for an electric chiller. Heat is added at the high-
pressure generator from a gas burner, steam, hot water or hot gases. The added heat causes the
refrigerant to desorb from the absorbent and vaporize. The vapors flow to a condenser, where heat is
rejected and condense to a high-pressure liquid. The liquid is then throttled though an expansion valve
to the lower pressure in the evaporator where it evaporates by absorbing heat and provides useful
cooling. The remaining liquid absorbent, in the generator passes through a valve, where its pressure is
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reduced, and then is recombined with the low-pressure refrigerant vapors returning from the
evaporator so the cycle can be repeated.
Working Principle:
There are three dampers in the humidification plant. By two damper airs from outside into the plant
and. by another one re circulated air again supplied to the plant. There is a passage to a cooled water
sprayed area. Here the cooled water (6-7OC) is sprayed to the air. The cooled water is supplied from the
chiller. Then this cooled air pass in the weaving section by duct line. The air from the conditioned space
(weaving section) again sucked by the underground duct. This air is full of dust, lint, fibre etc. Then a
filter a part of this air again re circulated in the plant filters this air and rest of the air is leave to the
outside.
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Introduction:
In this industrialized age, environmental pollution is a matter of great concern. Surface water
pollution is one of the elements of environmental pollution. Chemical processing industries
especially textile processing industries are claimed to produce huge effluent to discharge in our
rivers. A complex mixture of hazardous chemicals both organic and inorganic is discharged into
the water bodies from all these industries, usually without treatment.
It is well known that textile mills consume large volume of water for various processes such as
sizing, desizing, scouring, bleaching, mercerizing, dyeing, printing, finishing and washing. Due to
the nature of various chemical processing of textiles, large volumes of wastewater with
numerous pollutants are discharged everyday.
In Bangladesh most of the industrial units are located along the banks of the rivers and they do
not use Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP) for wastewater. As a consequence, industrial units drain
effluent directly into the rivers without consideration of the environment.
Setup an effluent treatment plant is mandatory for a factory today. Authority gives no
permission of electricity and gas connection to a new factory without ETP.
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Quantity:
The quantity of effluent to be treated shall be of the order of = 720 m3/day.
Screening
Pre-Treatment
Equalization
&
Skimming
Coagulation
Flocculation
Primary-Treatment
Neutralization
Sedimentation
11.2 Pre-Treatment
Screening:
The raw waste water (Raw Effluent) from the process of the plant would be first screened
through a manual bar screen strainer channel, where all particles with dia. > 5mm as well as
small pieces of the fibre and floating suspended matters like polythene paper, polythene bags,
rags and others materials removed by bar screen net. The bar screen consists of parallel rods or
bars and is also called a bar rack. These devices are used to protect downstream equipment
such as pumps, lines, valves etc. from damage and clogging by rags and other large objects. The
bar screen is cleaned manually by means of rakes. The screening is disposed off suitably after
they are de-watering. The screened clean effluent flows by gravity to an equalization tank.
11.3 Primary-Treatment
coagulation mechanism. Adequate quantity of poly electrolyte polymer solution are dosed to
enhance the process of color removal by the flocculation process.
pH Correction:
The overflow effluent from tube settler-1 tank is than taken by gravity in to the pH correction
channel for neutralization. 33% HCl acid is dosed for neutralizing the pH from around 10 to 7.
The pH correction channel is designed for hydraulic retention time of around 10 minutes and is
provided with slow speed agitator for thoroughly mixing of waste with acid. A pH indicator is
installed in the tank for measuring the pH (optional).
11.4 Secondary-Treatment
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Tube Sattler- 2:
After aerobically treatment effluent flows by gravity to the tube settler 2, the biological solids
generated are removed from the tube settler 2 by the help of tube settler media.
Sludge Treatment:
The sludge generated in tube settler-1, tube settler-2 and biological reactor is taken to a sludge
sump and pumped to a sludge thickener where sludge is concentrated. The thickened sludge
from the thickener shall be pumped to sludge drying bed for de-watering. The de-watered
sludge is formed into cake by natural dry or a centrifuge. The dried cake will be disposed in a
tank. The overflow from the sludge thickener will be flow back to equalization tank for further
treatment.
pH measurement experiment:
Due to our training period we performed an experience to measure the pH value before
treatment and after treatment and we found exact result from it. We measured the pH by using
pH paper and for the sake of clarity we instantly taken a picture of pH paper by a 14.1
megapixel digital camera. We cannot measure the others parameters due to unavailability of
instruments.
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Chapter Twelve
Maintenance
Page171
12.1 Introduction:
Maintenance of machineries is very important for any type of industries and it is a must for all textile
mills. All machines and machine parts of spinning, weaving, knitting, dyeing and garments are
maintained with extreme care. Because production quality and quantity both are depends on the
maintenance with regularity.
Definition of Maintenance:
Maintenance is the action taken to prevent a device or component from failing or to repair normal
equipment degradation experienced with the operation of the device to keep it in proper working order.
Objectives/Advantages of Maintenance:
To keep the factory plants, equipment, machine tool etc. in optimum working condition.
To ensures accuracy of product & time schedule to delivery customers.
To minimize downtime of machine.
To prolong the useful life of factory plant & machine.
To modify or improve productivity of existing machine to meet the need for production & thus
avoid sinking of additional capital.
To improve the factory environment.
Advantages:
Low cost
Less staff
Disadvantages:
We are spending more dollars associated with capital cost because, while waiting for the
equipment to break, we are shortening the life of the equipment resulting in more frequent
replacement or repair.
If it is a critical piece of equipment that needs to be back on line quickly, we will have to pay
maintenance overtime cost.
Possible secondary equipment or process damage from equipment failure.
Advantages:
Disadvantages:
Labor intensive
Includes performance of unneeded maintenance.
Potential for incidental damage to components in conducting unneeded maintenance.
Basically, predictive maintenance differs from preventive maintenance by basing maintenance need on
the actual condition of the machine rather than on some preset schedule.
Advantages:
Disadvantages:
Maintenance Procedure:
1. For there is any mechanical fault of machine which is responsible for production hamper,
operator informs mechanical fitters in duty. Mechanical fitters come and observe the problem
firstly, and then they begin to fix it.
2. If mechanical fitters be unable to fix it, then they inform technical in-charge, he then comes in
spot and fix it.
3. For there is any electrical problem of machine or serious founding mechanical problem,
mechanical and electrical department are informed, they come and fix the problem. They
commence at work after informing of production manager.
4. For restore active maintenance, senior production officer orders mechanical fitters to fit
required machine.
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Cleaning Types:
Section Cleaning
Warping Every day (by air)
Dyeing Every shade change ( by water)
Weaving Every day (by air)
Finishing In a week/month (by water)
Inspection or check-ups:
Lubrication:
Systematic lubrication means the application of right type of lubricant at right time at right place
& in right quantity.
It is done to minimize friction & reduce decay of machine parts.
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Operational manual
Maintenance instruction manual
History cards & history register
Inspection register
Log books
Defects register etc.
The technicians & supervisors of maintenance department should be well trained in a systematic way.
In is essential to store some essential spare parts which are needed every now & to keep the machine
running & reduce stoppage time for machine defects.
Chapter Thirteen
Store & Inventory Control
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There are two (one is small & other huge) room for storing and inventory control.
Amount of yarns which are required for the production of several months as prerequisite.
The amounts of yarn, which are loaded in the store, room concern with the production section
for continuous speed of production.
The spare parts of different section such as preparatory & dyeing, weaving section, finishing
section are stored. If a machine is innovated its slightly effected parts will be stored as spare
after repairing needed. In addition, these parts are used in conjunction with new parts.
After the completion of finishing, the finished fabric is stored from where the finished fabric is
delivered to the buyer.
Other Inventories:
Other inventories like empty packages or packages with few yarns & cartoons are stored in
wastage room. From this, packages with few yarns are used for sample production. Mechanical
equipments for maintenance are stored in mechanical room, lubricants are stored in lubricant
room & a drum is kept in the shed as stand by requirement.
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Chapter Fourteen
Marketing Activities
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Marketing Activities:
The commercial section of Partex Denim Limited performs the following functions:
To get order:
Like any other factory, Partex do not need to any kind of product marketing to get order. It is so
much renowned denim factory in Bangladesh that they do not knock the buyer's door for order.
Buyers come here with query for definite sample or style for their own interest.
Sample preparation:
Partex denim already prepared over five thousand types of fabric sample. So they have huge
number of fabric sample collection. If buyer's requirement match with any of earlier fabric then
a sample from stock is send to them, otherwise a new sample is prepared and sends to buyer.
If the buyer approves the sample, then Partex issues Performa invoice to the buyer.
Performa invoice is a paper where all the terms and condition of that business dealing is write
down. Partex mainly notice the following points in their PI:
Date of delivery
Date for bill payment after delivery
If the buyer agrees with the terms and condition on the P.I then the buyer open L.C against that
order.
L/C (Letter of Credit) is credit contract whereby the buyer's bank is committed (on behalf of
buyer) to place an agreed amount of money at solicits disposal under some agreed condition.
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Chapter Fifteen
Security
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Security Section:
The main objective of the security is to safe handling of the goods from/to the mill premises. For the
achievement of such objective a team of security guards has been employed by the Company. All the
keys relating to the mills office, labor colony, (quarters) are lying into the responsibility of the security
officer.
No outside visitor can come into the mills premises without the permission of the security guards or
administration department. Whenever any visitor wants to enter the mills, security guard firstly contact
with the authority in the mills to grant the permission to enter into the mills premises.
Security guards check each and every person before coming in or going out of the Company gate for the
security purposes. They have certain uniform of brown shirt and brown pent. They are the guardian of
everything of the Company.
For 24 hours close attention to the production floor and also the outside, there are several close circuit
camera all over the factory. This operation is done by the administration department from
administration office.
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Security Post:
This image taken from goole earth showing direct sallellite picture of the factory to understanding the secutiry post all over the factory. Black
circle shows security post and Red circle is the main gate of the factory.
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Md. Israfil Alam Rana, israfil_tex@yahoo.com, cell: 01717123339
PARTEX DENIM
Chapter Sixteen
Quality Assurance
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As Denim is a competitive market product, there will always be pressure on price and quality. One can
gain upper hand in pricing if their manufacturing cost is low. One of the ways of reducing the
manufacturing cost is reducing the raw material cost, reducing the production losses and reducing the
second's generation.
Quality Assurance in Denim mill can thus significantly help in achieving the above objectives.
Academically, Quality Assurance may be defined as "the planned and systematic activities implemented
in a system for fulfilling the quality requirements of a product or service." The current paper highlights in
brief various check points employed in Denim mill for arresting the non-conformities so as to reduce the
production losses and quality down gradations.
Technical Specifications:
The following guidelines can be followed at each stage starting from raw material selection to dispatch
of denim fabrics:
Basic raw material for denim fabric is yarn. The same is either produced internally or is procured from
outside. Following care should be taken for avoiding the damage of packages in go down:
In case of yarns purchased from outside, yarn should be unloaded from truck gently and location
of godown should be as near to warping. This will ensure minimum yarn damage due to impact
and significantly improve the warping performance due to reduction in cut ends.
In case of In-house yarn, plastic packages are used generally. Car needs to be taken to use
undamaged plastic packages only so as to minimize breaks at warping due to worn out
packages.
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The raw material for composite Denim mill is fibre while for non composite mill it is yarn only. The raw
material should be approved first before consuming for production. Following raw material parameters
effect the yarn properties and running performance.
For any new supplier/yarn sample it is always better to test the same by running the yarn as weft in the
running looms for assessing its performance.
Slub yarn approval should be given only after assessing the appearance either on yarn appearance board
or by producing the fabric by running the same on the loom along with standard Slub yarn.
3. Warping:
Warping serves as the acid test for the assessing the yarn quality. Warping performance is considered to
be satisfactory if breaks/million metre at 1200 mpm is as under:
Following points should be taken care while warping for getting the lower end breakage rate:
The breakages should be recorded along with the reason like cut ends, breakage from Slub,
opening of splice portion so as to take corrective action for next supply.
It has been found that yarn performing very good at warping sometimes create problem at dyeing range
due to greater liveliness leading to grouping of yarn. Sometimes yarn performing poorly at warping leads
to good running at dyeing. This may be due to elimination of all weak points at warping itself. In addition
to performance concerns, shade consistency and centre side variation is also one of the challenges for
mills having sheet dyeing ranges. These challenges make dyeing and sizing as very important operations
in the Denim manufacturing. Following points should be taken care while dyeing & sizing:
5. Weaving:
Weaving is an operation where first image of denim fabric is realized. On getting perfect beams, the
weaving efficiencies generally reaches Y6 to 98% per shift. In general the performance is considered
satisfactory till Warp and Weft break level is less than 1.5 breaks/ cmpx. Following points should be
taken care while weaving so as to supply defect free material to the next operation.
Weft yarn should be kept covered with plastics / cardboards so that no fly gets deposited on the
packages.
Care should be taken while beam knotting so as to avoid any crossed ends.
High speed air jet looms are commonly used for weaving denim fabrics. Air pressure should be
adjusted perfectly depending on the weft so that weft passes smoothly through the shed
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6. Singeing:
Singeing is an important operation as it burns the protruding fibres from the fabric surface. Following
care needs to be taken while singeing:
Flame quality should be perfect (singeing should be done in blue flame only).
Flame height should be uniform (4 to 5 inches) and should not vary throughout the width else it
will lead to bands in the fabric.
Speed should be optimum (around 70 to 80 mpm) so that effective singeing action is performed.
7. Finishing:
In denims two types of finishing machines (Foam finish/Wet finish) are found. Both have it's own
advantages and disadvantages. Irrespective of the type of finishing machines, following points should be
taken care while finishing operation:
The greige fabric must be tested for knowing the shrinkage & skew potential.
Based on the shrinkage & skew potential, shrinkage & skew is applied so that residual shrinkage
in fabric is less than 3.0% and skew movement less than 2.0%.
The fabric entering Sanforiser should be moist (around 12 to 1 5%) in order to get good body. I n
absence of moist fabric, the fabric feel is very limpy. Nowadays online moisture meter are also
installed in the region for monitoring of same.
The draft between sanforiser and palmer cylinder should be less than 1.0% so that shrinkage
applied is not lost due to stretching.
The finished fabric should be checked for all properties like weight, shrinkage, skew, stiffness,
tensile and tear strength before releasing to inspection department.
Inspection provides the true picture of the fabric quality by informing the main defects for down
gradation. Action can be taken in particular department for reducing the value losses. Following steps to
be taken in inspection and packing department for getting the right quality product:
Inspection to be done for 100% fabric by any accepted inspection system. In general 4 point
inspection system is commonly followed.
Full width fabric sample of 10" length from every roll is collected for pick checking and shade
grouping.
Full width sample after every 4000m should be sent to laboratory for parameter testing like
weight, shrinkage, skew, stiffness, tensile and tear strength.
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Paper tube length & quality should be perfect so that fabric doesn't hang from the edges and
paper tube doesn't get collapsed during storage or transit.
Each fabric roll is weighed and packed using HOPE woven cloth, shrink wrapping or stretch
wrapping Fabric weight (OSY) should be checked from length and weight of the roll before
dispatching so as to segregate lower weight rolls if any.
Washing and shade grouping is very important activity in Denim mill. Export buyers or very reputed
domestic buyers ask for the taper/sequencing report along with the dispatches. Generally buyers ask for
the washed swatches along with taper/sequencing reports. The important point is as under:
The collected 10" sample from every roll is cut into five equal pieces. One piece from all the rolls
of the particular order are stitched as blanket along with standard swatch and washed as per the
customer recipe or own developed recipe. After washing the swatches are measured on
spectrophotometer for shade values and off shade rolls are removed from the dispatches. In
case of major shade off, recipe of washing can be changed (if acceptable to customer) and same
should be communicated to customer for getting the desired shade as required.
10 Storing of Rolls Storing in godown is all together a specialized activity. If not done properly all
the good work done so far will be no use. In general, care should be taken for following points;
Rolls should be stacked horizontally and not vertically. Vertical stacking lead to waviness
problem on opening.
Rolls should be stacked in such a way that it is easy to locate any roll at the time of
dispatch.
10. Dispatch:
Dispatch is last activity but certainly but very important. Following care needs to be taken during
dispatch operation:
Care should be taken the approved roll list given by QA is only loaded Loading should be gentle
enough so that there are no damage to the packing
Conclusion:
From the above it is clear that each and every operation is important and contributes significantly to the
quality of the product. One should arrest the non-conformity where it happened so that further
operation is not affected. This way production loss is minimized and product produced is of superior
quality.
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Discussion
Partex Denim Ltd. is the largest and most versatile business conglomerate in the private denim
sector in Bangladesh. Partex Denim Ltd. is committed to the best human workplace practices.
Their goal is to continuously improve their Human resource policies and procedures
through education, training, communication and employees involvement. Right from inception
the policy of the company has been to provide total customer satisfaction by offering quality
denim fabric in time. To meet the manufacturing to quality and promote delivery Partex Denim
Ltd. decided to integrate the manufacturing process in a planned manner. Over the year the
entire process has been integrated by importing sophisticated machinery from world renowned
manufacturers. According to their capacity they have an enriched production team which is
very rare in other factories of Bangladesh. The working environment of Partex Denim Ltd. is
very cordially & friendly. All of the executives & employees of Partex Denim Ltd. are very much
cordial & they always appreciate the learners.
The goal of Partex Denim Ltd. is to get high production & to maintain the quality of the product
at a minimum cost.
Some suggestions:
The warping floor is dirty most of the time though it is cleaning every day. Fly dust removed
from yarn surface create this problem. Necessary steps should be taken for keep better
cleaning condition all the time because warping section situated at the front side of Main gate.
Cleaning environment will increase better satisfaction to buyers.
The upper shed of the factory floor is a little bit broken/leakage in some places which
causes water fall when raining.
The temperature of the sizing shed is higher than others though it has ventilation
system. We think blower fans speed should increase for better suction of hot air.
There is no overhauling maintenance for few machines. We think overhauling
maintenance should carry on by maintenance department for continuous production of
machines.
Unnecessary lighting should remove for less power consumption.
There is no conference room for workers training. We think workers training can
improve the total production system and also the profit. So a conference room should
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establish.
There is no identity card for officers. I think this is very important for security system
and also for advertising.
Conclusion
During my training period, talking with the clients of this mill I knew that the mill is fulfilling the
countrys best export oriented finished fabric as well as very good quality fabric due to its
modern machinery & good management system.
Mill is settled with utility to give all convenient supports to the productions for twenty-
four hours. It had self-power generator system to satisfy total power consumptions of the mill.
I am enough fortunate that I have got an opportunity of having a training in this mill. During the
training period I have received co-operation and association from the authority full & found all
man, machines & materials on appreciable working condition. All stuffs & officers were very
sincere & devoted their duties to achieve their goal.
Finally I would like to wish Partex Denim Ltd. to have a blast & thanks to administration of
Partex Denim Ltd. for their cordial attitude to me.
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References:
1. http://www.partexholdings.com/index.html
2. http://www.partexdenim.com/
3. http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&tab=wl
4. http://morrisontexmach.com/welcome.cfm
5. http://www.denimsandjeans.com/
6. http://articles.fibre2fashion.com/
7. http://www.picanol.be/PICBESITE/EN/
8. http://www.cibitex.it/_eng/home.asp
9. http://www.sttm.com.tw/e_index2.html
10. http://www.ngaishinghk.com/english/products/industrialWashing.htm
11. http://www.mechmar.com.my/products_as.htm
12. http://www.dresserwaukesha.com/index.cfm/go/list-prodsubline/productline/gas-
compression-engine/
13. http://us.kaeser.com/Products_and_Solutions/Compressed-air-treatment/default.asp
14. http://www.lsaircondition.com/lsgonjo_eng/default.asp
15. http://spacco.com/documents/25.html
16. http://www.aesa-ae.com/en/textile-air-engineering/
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