Académique Documents
Professionnel Documents
Culture Documents
Dubrovnik
Spring 2017
Easter celebrations
Past and present
Local art
Discover Lenas
colourful canvases
N21 - complimentary copy
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
Contents
E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S
City Basics 10
Making your stay stress free
Easter 11
Bunnies, eggs and lambs
Whats On 15
Lena Kramaris Interview
Restaurants 20
We give you the bread n butter of where to eat
Local Flavour 31
Flavoursome dishes
Nightlife 36
Are you ready to party
Sightseeing 38
All those things you musnt miss
Dubrovnik Surroundings 46
Natures gift to uplift
Leisure 55
Recreational pleasure
Shopping 57
Take home the best memories and souvenirs
Hotels 60
Places to stay for every pocket
ARRIVING BY PLANE
The airport is located 20 km southeast of Dubrovnik. Its
The Tourist Information Centres enlisted below are the
small, clean, and functional. There is a restaurant and caf,
official centres of the Dubrovnik Tourist Board. All the in-
plus information, exchange offices, and ATMs. A car hire
formation and materials made available are free and you
facilities are to be found in the arrivals hall.
are more than welcome to visit them.
Getting to town: scheduled flights are met by an Atlas
bus which trundles into town (40 kn one-way), dropping
PILE
off at Pile Gate (main entrance to the Old Town) before
QC2, Brsalje 5, tel. (+385-20) 31 20 11, www.
proceeding to the ferry port and the bus station. Munici-
tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. June Open
pal buses no. 11, 27 and 38 also connect the airport to the
08:00 - 21:00.
town centre (28 kn one way), but only run a few times a
GRU day. A taxi ride into town will cost 200 250 kn.
QH1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 1, tel. (+385-20) 41
79 83, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. DUBROVNIK AIRPORT (ZRANA LUKA DU-
Sat, Sun Open 08:00 - 14:00. May Open 08:00 - BROVNIK)
20:00. From June Open 08:00 - 21:00. Qilipi, Konavle, tel. (+385-20) 77 31 00/(+385-20) 77
33 33, www.airport-dubrovnik.hr.
LAPAD
QG2, Masarykov put 2, Dvori Lapad, tel. (+385-20)
43 74 60, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 09:00 - 16:00, CAR RENTAL
Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. May 1 - 15 Open 08:00 AVIS - BUDGET
- 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. QDubrovnik Airport, ilipi, tel. (+385-) 091 314 30 19,
May 16 - 31 Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - www.avis.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. A
12:00, 17:00 - 20:00. From June Open 08:00 -20:00.
DOLLAR&THRIFTY
LOPUD
QDubrovnik Airport, ilipi, tel. (+385-20) 77 35 88/
QObala I. Kuljevana 12, tel. (+385-20) 32 23 22,
(+385-) 098 42 49 03, www.carrentalsubrosa.com.
www.tzdubrovnik.hr. Open from May.
Open 07:00 - 21:00, andro.sukno@subrosa.hr. A
IPAN
QLuka bb, Luka ipanska, tel. (+385-20) 75 80 84, HERTZ
www.tzdubrovnik.hr. Open from June. Also at Dubrovnik Airport, ilipi 08:00 - 20:00 every day,
tel: (+385-20) 77 15 68, (+385-) 091 425 11 11.QL2, Frana
ZATON Supila 9, tel. (+385-20) 42 50 00/(+385-) 091 425 00 01,
QZaton Veliki 2, tel. (+385-20) 89 12 30, www. www.hertz.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00,
tzdubrovnik.hr. Open From May 15. Sun on request. A
UNI RENT
Also at Dubrovnik Airport, ilipi, tel. (+385-20) 77 34 80,
dubrovnik-airport@uni-rent.hr, Open 08:00 - 20:00.QF/
G3, Masarykov put 9, tel. (+385-20) 33 36 64/(+385-)
099 219 55 15, www.uni-rent.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00,
Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A
PARKING
Central Dubrovnik can be a nightmare when it comes to
parking, and its not uncommon to see visitors driving
around in circles for hours in the hope of finding a free
space. Your best bet is to head for the multi-storey car
park at Ilijina Glavica (Zagrebaka ulica, K-2), well-placed
for people entering the city from the west. A bus shuttles
passengers from the car park to the Old Towns Pile Gate,
although with Pile sitting a mere ten minutes downhill on
foot, you might not need it. Parking costs 5 - 40kn per hour
depending on which zone youre in, and the season.
SANITAT DUBROVNIK
QMarka Marojice 5, tel. (+385-20) 64 01 40, www.
sanitat.hr/en/.
RADIO TAXI DUBROVNIK
PUBLIC TRANSPORT Qtel. (+385-20) 41 14 11, www.radiotaxidubrovnik.
com.
The orange city buses are run by Libertas (hooray, free-
dom!). Youll be amazed how efficient and clean they are. TAXI RAGUSA DUBROVNIK
They connect the coach station and Gru harbour with the Qtel. (+385-) 800 14 41, www.taxidubrovnik.eu.
Old Town and hotels on Lapad, and take you to Cavtat in
the south of the county, and Peljeac in the north. See the
companys website or any number of placards or fliers in TRAVEL AGENCIES
the city for a route map. Tickets for journeys within the city GULLIVER TRAVEL
cost 12 kn from news kiosks (15 kn from the driver) and Excursions, unique Croatia cruises, tours, transfers... www.
must be validated in the ticket-stamping machines imme- croatia-excursions.hrQI2, Obala Stjepana Radia 25,
diately upon boarding. Out-of-town routes cost a little bit tel. (+385-20) 41 08 88, www.gulliver.hr. Open 08:00 -
more (the journey to Cavtat for example costs 25 kn each 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A
way) and tickets are bought from the driver.
KORKYRA
LIBERTAS QE1, Hvarska 42, tel. (+385-20) 42 16 89, www.korkyra-
QI2, Vukovarska 42, tel. (+385-) 099 407 32 74/(+385- dubrovnik.com. Open 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
20) 35 70 20, www.libertasdubrovnik.hr. From May Open 09:00 - 21:00. A
VIVADO
TAXI Boat excursions, accommodation, B&B, airport transfer,
There are multiple taxi companies in Dubrovnik, so there tourist information...Qetalite Marka Marojice 16, Mlini,
should be no shortage of transport to get you from A to B. tel. (+385-) 098 166 31 61, www.vivado.hr. Open 09:00
Rates appear to be uniform throughout the city, with prices - 20:00. N
starting at 29kn, and each kilometre costing you 9kn.
TOILETS
There are four public toilets in Dubrovnik Old City which
will cost you 5 kn. Two of them are in Pile, one in Ploe,
and one is at the Fishmarket (Peskarija). All are open 07:00
- 23:00, Peskarija 07:00 - 02:00.
WATER
Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.
good. The popularity of the Easter Bunny then grew in the WHAT THE LOCALS SAY
English-speaking world. This custom is also still alive in the DR JASNA APO from the Institute for Ethnology and
Srijem region of eastern Croatia possibly bequeathed by Folklore, author of Croatian Easter Customs - Lenten and
ethnic Germans who lived in that culturally diverse region. Easter Customs of the Croatian People in the First Half of
GENTLE LAMBS the 20th Century: Daily Life, Popular Piety and Community
A lamb is also a popular motif decorating Easter cards. The (1997)
lamb is of great significance in Christianity since Christ, the DIYP: Have any Easter customs in Croatia already
Lamb of God, sacrificed his life to save humanity, and thus disappeared, and if so which ones?
the Easter story was born. This is why in the religious calen- Dr apo: Customs which are related to Easter, like other
dar Easter is even more significant than Christmas since at customs and traditions related to other dates in the Catho-
this time we celebrate the life and deeds of Jesus, not just lic calendar, are in constant flux: some traditions disap-
his birth. pear while others change, adapting to the contemporary
EASTER IN DUBROVNIK moment. There are scarcely any traditions which havent
In the Dubrovnik region decorating eggs using the wax re- changed either in their shape, content or the meaning
lief method is a cultural activity that is taken very seriously. which people ascribe to them. However, in Croatia those
The technique of drawing designs in molten beeswax and processes were unusual because following the atheisation
dipping the eggs in water coloured with natural dyes such that occurred in socialist Yugoslavia (1945-1990) traditions
as onion skins or pine needles is passed down through the related to the Catholic Church were suppressed or pushed
generations and is known locally as penganje. A great many out of the public sphere. The process of modernisation, par-
eggs are prepared by each family since eggs are given as ticularly industrialisation and urbanisation, also contributed
gifts to family members, friends, neighbours and respected to their gradual disappearance. However, with the founda-
members of the community. tion of the modern Croatian state traditions and customs
related to Easter and other Catholic feasts are very much be-
An art form unique to Dubrovnik is the poma, a particularly ing renewed and are gaining a new impetus, and through
decorative ornament made from plaited palm leaves, usu- presentation in the media local customs are becoming part
ally featuring a cross. These, or olive branches, are taken to of the overall Croatian cultural heritage.
Mass on Palm Sunday to be blessed, much as in other parts
of the world people take branches of palm, olive or pussy DIYP: To what extent do customs vary throughout
willow. The blessed branches are taken home and kept Croatia?
as decorations to ensure good health in the coming year. Dr apo: Despite their shared Christian foundations in the
Workshops are held today for young people helping keep Easter context of customs, in the narrower sense focused on
alive the skill of plaiting palm leaves. Holy Week, Easter Sunday and Easter Monday, and despite
the mainly Slavic basis of Croatian traditional culture, there
12 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
Easter
are significant differences in local practices. This happened
due to the way the Croatian regions are incorporated into
different cultural spheres: Mediterranean in the south and
central European in the north. One outstanding difference
which results from these facts is evident in the processions
related to Holy Week and Easter. On the coast, especially in
Dalmatia, during Holy Week local Brotherhoods organise
processions grieving Christs suffering and the Crucifixion.
Exceptionally subdued in character they are similar to the
processions in, for example, Spain and southern Italy. The
procession that takes place in Hvar from the night of Maun-
dy Thursday and into Good Friday has become an interna-
Dr. Jasna apo
tionally renowned tourist attraction. Meanwhile, the pro-
cessions in northern Croatian regions are oriented towards
celebrating the Resurrection and are held on Easter Sunday. DIYP: How does your Easter Sunday look?
Dubravka: In recent years after Mass on Easter Sunday we
DIYP: Could you tell us about some of the most take a pinca and eggs to be blessed and go out for a family
interesting customs in the Zagreb and Dubrovnik lunch.
regions?
Dr apo: Decorating eggs and baking special sweet bread DIYP: What do you eat for Easter Sunday lunch?
are two widespread Easter traditions in Croatia. In the Du- Dubravka: We like soup with homemade noodles; lamb,
brovnik region, unlike other coastal areas, Easter eggs are kid goat and veal cooked in sauce with potatoes is a real
decorated using wax resist to create ornaments (the Du- treat, with cake and pinca for dessert.
brovnik coast, Konavle and Mljet). Before colouring, most
often using a red colour, plant motifs are drawn onto the
eggs in molten wax, and after the wax is melted away the
eggshell retains its natural colour. Eggs are decorated in this
THE UDIJE FESTIVAL
way along the Dubrovnik coastline and in Konavle but not
in the City itself. However, the whole area is familiar with a The udije Festival celebrates a Holy Week tradition in
fragrant sweet bread known as pinca. In the Dubrovnik area Dalmatia of re-enacting the story of the Resurrection.
I would also highlight the beautifully plaited palm fronds Twelve men dressed as Roman soldiers and a thirteenth,
which are taken to be blessed on Palm Sunday. Recently their commander, are charged with the duty of guard-
you have been able to get hold of these in Zagreb although ing a replica of Christs tomb. In some places the Roman
in the capital it is still more usual to take olive branches to outfits are replaced by sailors costumes or folk costume.
be blessed. That tradition is also a more recent one since in
the Zagreb region olive doesnt thrive. For that reason in The re-enactment begins the day before Easter Friday.
the capital the traditional branches which were taken to be In groups of four, the men take it in turns to guard the
blessed were Cornelian cherry or willow. In the capital, more tomb until midnight on Easter Saturday, when the Holy
so than elsewhere, some old traditions died out earlier. Vigil is held. In the Bible story, the Roman guards sent
to prevent Jesuss body being removed from its tomb
DIYP: Which part of the Easter tradition is your and the women who had come to anoint his body were
personal favourite and is included in your Easter terrified when a strong earthquake struck and an angel
celebrations today? appeared, after which they found the door to the tomb
Dr apo: These days, more so than in the past, Easter is a open and the body no longer inside. This scene is shown
family holiday. Apart from an Easter breakfast in the fam- in the dramatisation.
ily circle, with traditional ingredients such as cooked ham,
eggs, horseradish and spring onions, and which lost its The udije is a tradition widespread in Dalmatia since
charm after the death of my parents, I still today go for the late 19th century, with every parish developing its
an outing into the countryside either on Easter Sunday or own variation. This festival started in the coastal town of
Easter Monday. In the past for the people of Zagreb a trip, Vodice in 2001 as a way of celebrating and preserving
on foot, to Remete, which was then on the perimeters of the those traditions. udije groups from all over Dalmatia
city but today is a city neighbourhood, was an unmissable gather in a different parish every year, but every sixth
part of celebrating Easter. year they return to Vodice where the festival began. This
year the udije Festival will be held in Komin, 10km from
DUBRAVKA KURLA owner of Konoba Jezuite
Ploe in Dubrovnik-Neretva County on Easter Mon-
DIYP: Which part of Easter do you like best? day, April 17th.
Dubravka: I most enjoy preparing for the celebrations.
Decorating eggs is still the best in our house because my
children love it and I do too as it reminds me of the time
when they were small.
www.inyourpocket.com
EASTER EVENTS
Easter events in and around Dubrovnik in which
visitors can take part and feel how locals celebrate this
Holy Week Traditions in Korula; Photo by Neven Fazini holiday
Lena Kramari
LENA KRAMARI The personal component here has an important role here
since this always: a little me.
Lena Kramari is an artist and teacher of art history who
lives in Dubrovnik with her husband and two daughters. DIYP: Could you tell us a little about the colours
She grew up in Zagreb where she gained a PhD from the and techniques of your work which make them so
Academy of Fine Arts. You can see Lenas work in many gal- sensitive and alive, so real?
leries in Dubrovnik and elsewhere. If you are interested in Lena: I think while I paint. The preparation for the work
her work you are welcome to contact her at lenakramaric@ is sketches which are formed round the clock in my head.
gmail.com. Once my hand gets hold of my work tools I work quickly
and spontaneously, often working on more than one pic-
DIYP: Lena, you were born and grew up in Zagreb. ture at once since I am best able to express myself in that
Has moving to Dubrovnik influenced your art, and way. I build the pictures in layers, in that way they become
in what way? similar to my thoughts, the pictures in my head which I
Lena: I think that the moment that I moved was key. At cannot describe in words. I give a part of myself in trying
that time many of the characteristics which today describe to convey the atmosphere which I feel. In my works there
me and my work were forming, although they are still are both legible places, symbols, elements from the real
changing. The effect of surprise, of boundless possibilities environment but also ones that are less easy to understand.
and constant change is what makes daily life interesting All of these create a collage of emotions, states and words.
and challenging. Collage is an artistic technique which is part of my work,
as is drawing which is the starting and finishing point of
DIYP: Tell us something about the motif of female everything.
characters on all of your pictures. Is that from your
daily life and what surrounds you or do they help DIYP: You have held many exhibitions in Du-
you to express your inner world? brovnik. Do you have a favourite space which
Lena: All of the above Female characters have been pre- your art works best in?
sent from the very beginning and convey the whole picture Lena: Ideas and possibilities for exhibitions occur to me to-
at first glance. On closer inspection, they are only a work- gether with the creation of my works. The whole process is
ing material, creating the atmosphere, carrying information somehow natural and spontaneous, so that a part of a pe-
and stimuli from the outside world onto the canvas. They riod of my life is reciprocated with a cycle of pictures from
are the projection of my desires, fears and trials. I see them that time which always fits into the exhibition space in a
as characters without age or gender. Little girls, women new way. All the spaces I have exhibited in have a special
and elderly ladies are present in one and the same char- story and meaning for me; but each of them would have a
acter as if they reject or celebrate time and the circle of life. new and different meaning today.
Lena Kramari
Lena Kramari
DIYP: You have two little girls. Where in Dubrovnik www.lenakramaric.com, www.lenakramaric.tumblr.com,
do you most like to spend time with them? www.smallena.tumblr.com
KAVANA TEATAR
Located in Lapad, off of the typical tourist track, this simple
and laid-back restaurant serves all your basic meals. Not
only a restaurant but a cafe as well, stop by for a drink or
grab a bite to eat. They offer something for everyone from
pizza and evapii to carbonara spaghetti and omeletts.
This simple, but delicious food will hit the spot and best
of all, for a reasonable price.QH2, Iva Vojnovia 72, tel.
(+385-20) 43 62 20. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 -
01:00. (35 - 90kn). PTA6GBXSW
KOMIN
The fireplace, adorned with ironwork and ancient
weaponry, has as its centrepiece a real hearth where
your meal is cooked before your very eyes try meat
or fish ispod peke. A good choice in the Babin kuk area.
QG2, Iva Dulia 136, tel. (+385-20) 43 56 36, www.
restaurant-komin.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (80 - 130kn).
PTA6LGBXW
KOPUN
Situated at the top of a long flight of steps, next to the
Barba Restaurant Archives Jesuit Church, this restaurant features food from all across
Croatia, and when we say all over, we mean all over; every
CROATIAN notable region is represented on the menu. As their name
suggests their specialty is the kopun, or capon to you and
BISTRO GLORIJET me, and they also have local beer on tap. Service is deliv-
Close to the city market in Gru harbour youll find this ered with smiles in abundance, and this is a great spot for a
lovely old summer residence which has been turned into a romantic meal, far from any loud pubs or cafes.QC4, Pol
bistro where you can enjoy good cooking at sensible pric- jana Ruera Bokovia 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 39 69/(+385-)
es. Glorijet has earned a reputation among the locals as 099 212 98 80, 098 42 73 82, www.restaurantkopun.
a good lunch spot.QH2, Obala Stjepana Radia 16, tel. com. Open 11:00 - 22:30. June Open 11:00 - 24:00. (80 -
(+385-20) 41 97 88/(+385-) 098 28 51 80. Open 10:00 - 250kn). PTJAGBXW
24:00. Closed Sun. (60 - 170kn). PTA6UGW
MIMOZA
BISTRO TAVULIN In a courtyard across from the Hilton Imperial Hotel, 100
Located behind St. Blaise Church, this restaurant offers a meters from the Pile Gate, Mimoza is big enough to handle
shady spot to rest during a hot summer day. They offer your tour group and several others simultaneously, seem-
some special dishes not found in other restaurants, such ingly without a blink. Theres a dining room, but the ter-
as Creamy Barley with Adriatic Shrimp, Octopus Ragout race, shaded partly with a grape arbour, is a pleasant place
and Beef Cheeks. For dessert, St. Blaise Soil is a must-try. As to dine on meats and fish, pizzas and pasta and vegetarian
an additional plus, they offer free wi-fi so you can catch up dishes. Delivery is available.QJ3, Branitelja Dubrovnika
with your family and friends as you enjoy a delicious meal 9, tel. (+385-20) 41 11 57, www.restaurant-mimoza-
in this ancient setting.QC3, Cvijete Zuzori 1, tel. (+385- dubrovnik.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (80 - 120kn).
20) 32 39 77, www.tavulin.com. Open 09:00 - 23:00. PTAEGBXW
(100 - 170kn). PJGBXW
ORHAN
DUBRAVKA 1836 RESTAURANT & CAF Definitely check out the tiny harbour at Pile its like
Located on Pile, this restaurant overlooks Lovrijenac For- something out of a pirate movie set in an intimate huddle
tress and the Old City Walls. They offer delicious Mediterra- of houses beneath sheer cliffs. Orhans terrace is, therefore,
nean dishes in a romantic and peaceful setting. Their vast a great spot. Decent quality, classic Croatian cooking at
menu includes enough choices to suit everyones taste, reasonable prices.QK3, Od Tabakarije 1, tel. (+385-20)
such as a variety of pizzas, risottos and pastas, fish dishes, 41 41 83, www.restaurant-orhan.com. Open 11:00 -
such as Grilled Squid or Salmon Fillet and meat dishes, 23:30. (80 - 200kn). PTJA6GBXW
TAJ MAHAL
ETHNIC First things first, the food isnt Indian but Bosnian though
CANTINA MEXICANA CHIHUAHUA the immaculate dcor has an Eastern influence. Back to
This rather pleasant Mexican serves up all the usuals: siz- whats important, the cuisine. Expect a cross-cultural fu-
zling fajitas, burritos, tacos and chimichangas, plus ribs, sion of East meets West with fresh ingredients priority
wings and steaks. Open all year round it provides an ideal one. Homemade flatbread is a must; top sellers include
alternative for anyone looking for a satisfying meal, be evapii, meat platters, lamb stew, shish-kebabs, soups,
they a local looking to shy away from the traditional Med- house wine and more. Their authentic Turkish coffee is
iteranean fare, or a tourist simply craving something a bit the best way to winddown.QC3, Nikole Guetia 2,
different.QG2, etalite kralja Zvonimira 2b, tel. (+385- tel. (+385-20) 32 32 21/(+385-) 098 983 26 20, www.
20) 42 44 45/(+385-) 098 58 28 46. Open 12:00 - 24:00. tajmahal-dubrovnik.com. Open 09:00 - 01:00. (90 -
(55 - 130kn). PVNBSW 200kn). TA6GBSW
MAGELLAN
The first beautiful thing about this restaurant is the nat-
ural light that floods through huge windows on all four
sides. The second is the magenta-coloured wall covered
in modern paintings by artists from Dubrovnik. Third,
and most important, is the food. Bread and pasta are
home-made; everything is fresh and perfectly prepared,
and the service is first-class.QI3, Iva Vojnovia 7a, tel.
(+385-20) 33 35 94. Open 08:00 -00:00. (100 - 300kn).
PAULEGBXSW
for an evening out with your friends and family.QH1, meet specialty cuts of beef from around the world. The
Obala Stjepana Radia 30, tel. (+385-20) 33 35 52, www. selection of local wines is extensiveas it should be. Cool
porat-dubrovnik.com. Open 07:30 24:00. (25 - 500kn). off with a refreshing Mint Julep or Gin Rickey.QB3, Od
PTA6UGBXSW Domina 1, tel. (+385 - 20) 32 16 37. Open 11:00 - 24:00.
(100 - 400kn). BW
RESTAURANT 360
If this review were to merely say WOW! then it would be
doing this restaurant a great injustice. 360 is designed for KONOBA
couples, not for larger groups, so it maintains a wonderful KONOBA DALMATINO
air of serenity even when full. From the main room which Tucked inside the narrow side streets of the Old City, Ko-
is set deep into the City walls, to the outdoor terraces noba Dalmatino has added a unique twist to traditional
which look out over the harbour. Their wine cellar alone Dalmatian cuisine. Try some Mussels in a Cream Wine
is worth in excess of 1 million Euros, and that alone should Sauce, John Dory Fillet or Seared Tuna Steak with pan
be all you need to know about 360.QE2, Sv.Dominika fried vegetables from the appetizing menu, in this warm
bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 22 22, www.360dubrovnik. environment of orange and brown hues, resembling rus-
com. Open 18:30 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (190 - 350kn). tic Tuscany. Old photos of Dubrovnik line the walls, along
PTJA6GBXW with wine bottles that are displayed around the restau-
rant, for decoration. To satisfy your palate, there is an ex-
TAVERNA OTTO tensive list of wines to choose from to sip along with your
This charming little taverna has an atmosphere remi- meal. For dessert, dont miss out on trying the Chocolate
niscent of a French bistro. Its attracting more and more Fondant, for a small taste of heaven.QC3, Miha Pracata
admirers thanks to its attractive dcor, great terrace and 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 70/(+385-) 098 32 74 04, www.
excellent food. We especially recommend the spicy pork dalmatino-dubrovnik.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (80 -
ribs, grilled tuna steak and chocolate fondant. But what- 180kn). PTJA6GBXW
ever you choose, you cant go wrong.QI2, Nikole Tesle
8, tel. (+385-20) 35 86 33, www.tavernaotto.com. Open KONOBA JEZUITE
12:00 - 16:00, 19:00 - 23:00. Closed Tue. From May Open Tucked away from the big crowds where serenity reigns
12:00 - 16:00, 19:00 - 23:00, Tue 19:00 - 23:00. (80 - and positioned in front of the Saint Ignatius Church.
200kn). PTA6GBXW Choose from a balanced choice of fish and meat dishes
or platters with excellent wines to dabble. It is typical
THE GATSBY WINE & FOOD BAR Dalmatia and we recommend the mussels.QC4, Poljana
Located in a quaint street in the old town, The Gatsby Wine Ruera Bokovia 5, tel. (+385-) 098 74 00 73, www.
& Food Bar caters to a modern clientele with a nod to the restaurantjezuitedubrovnik.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00.
roaring 20s. Locally sourced ingredients and Adriatic fish (60 - 150kn). JABW
RESTAURANT HORIZONT
Dubrovnik Food Story Archives This appetizing new restaurant is located up a timeworn
stone staircase just outside of the Old Town and has an
BREAKFAST amazing view overlooking Porporela and the Old Harbour.
They offer seasonal meat and fish menus, as well as tra-
ORLANDO ditional cuisine from not only the Dalmatian region, but
A perfect spot for breakfast on a warm day: this place also Istria, such as Fresh Dalmatian Tuna Tartar and Beef
has just three tables inside but a wonderful terrace Tenderloin in a Truffle Sauce. For dessert, try a delicious
right on Stradun. Apart from home-baked rolls and slice of Chocolate Souffle or Carrot Cake and experi-
croissants, you can treat yourself to dalmatian cured ence a small taste of paradise in this romantic setting.
ham, scrambled eggs, fresh juice, tea and coffee. A bit QE1, Put od Bosanke 8, tel. (+385-), www.restaurant-
on the pricey side due to the prime location.QC,D2, horizont.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (110 - 150kn).
Placa bb, www.esculaprestaurants.com. Open 07:30 PTALGBXSW
- 01:00. (60 - 120kn). JABW
SALVATORE
PUPICA This is the perfect place to grab some of your favourite
Charming patisserie in the stunning Old city which Croatian snacks, like cheese and prosciutto-style ham or
could suit almost any European town, city, or vil- shrimp, while taking a break from exploring the city walls.
lage. Their slogan states that life without breakfast, is And not to mention the breathtaking view that will feed
like a day without morning. So before you get ready your soul.QE4, Old City Walls, tel. (+385-20) 63 69 39.
to head out on your daily adventure, omelettes, Open 08:00 - 18:30.
toasts, as well as cakes can only do you good!QC3,
Cvijete Zuzori 5, tel. (+385-) 099 216 54 54, VAPOR
www.pupodubrovnik.com. Open 07:00 - 22:00. A Michelin guide restaurant, Bellevue Hotel restaurant is
PTJA6UGBXW perfectly located near the city centre and commands an
SALVATORE amazing view of its nearby surroundings. Food includes
Call it the perfect pit stop right on the old city walls Dalmatian cuisine with an international twist, this viva-
especially in 30 plus degree heat. Their breakfast menu cious diversity together with an excellent wine list is sure
is simple and easy, ranging from omelettes to sand- to satisfy the more refined tongue.QI3, Pera ingrije 7,
wiches. But best of all, the view overlooking the sea tel. (+385-20) 33 08 88, www.adriaticluxuryhotels.com/
and smoothies and juices made fresh on site make this en/hotel-bellevue-dubrovnik/restaurants-and-bars/
time-out, a true breather!QE4, Old City Walls, tel. vapor-restaurant. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (105 - 320kn).
(+385-20) 63 69 39. Open 08:00 - 18:30. PTAULEGBXW
LOCAL DISHES
Despite Dubrovnik having centuries-old trading connec-
tions across the globe, the cuisine of this region is very
much based on the gifts of nature in this part of the world.
Classic Dubrovnik cuisine is seasoned with parsley, garlic,
olive oil and lemon, and perhaps a touch of rosemary or
bay leaf if the chef is on the adventurous side. A true Medi-
terranean experience, you might say.
This tendency to eschew more exotic ingredients can be a
double-edged sword. On the one hand, the citys menus
can seem somewhat repetitive. On the other hand, what
you eat is fresh, natural and, in the better restaurants, local.
The simplicity of the preparation lets the flavours of high
quality ingredients do the work. Its hard to beat a good
piece of meat or fish grilled over charcoal with a salad
freshly picked from a hinterland garden.
In defence of simple cooking, experiments with imagina-
tive cuisine can be like playing Russian roulette. In anything
but the most skilled hands and pedantic husbandry the
result can be disappointing. For example, in Provence, as
Financial Times food columnist Rowley Leigh complained
bitterly in summer 2012, its hard find an authentic bouilla-
baisse or ratatouille these days. Peasant food gains elevated
status and loses its guts. Croatian food is still unfashionably
plentiful and full of flavour, and all the better for it.
So, what can you eat in Dubrovnik if youd like to escape the
grilled fish - grilled meat - pasta trinity? The best answer is
the same as anywhere: the same as the local people eat
at home.
Lets start with the basics. porke makarule is the local
version of everyones favourite: spaghetti bolognaise.
DUBROVNIK FOOD STORY hearty hosts whip up some immaculate traditional dish-
es. The Hop on hiccup food and wine tour - Peljeac
Your Food Guide in Dubrovnik Gourmet tour takes you to the best wine region this
side of the Adriatic as you visit charming family run wine
For the complete food and wine experience, this com- cellars, steep slopes covered with vineyards, and oyster
pany has it all! Pick and select from their selective tours farms.So no matter your choice, each tour is made for
which embrace a fusion of history and gastronomy, tradi- lasting impressions as your job is to toast, drink and eat.
tion and local ambience. Choose from their Dubrovnik Regular tours are in English but for bigger groups they
on a Plate Eat and Walk tour, visiting four culinary offer private tours in French, German, Spanish and Italian.
gems in the heart of town whilst hearing some funny Bookings in advance are essential and starting times vary
stories of historical sites in between. There is the Pick. for each tour. For further details, visit www.dubrovnik-
Cook.Eat- Traditional Cooking Class tour, where foodstory.com and as they say WARNING; an empty
youre taken to a typical family country home, pick your glass is strictly forbidden.Qtel. (+385-20) 29 51 44, www.
ingredients straight from the garden and along with your dubrovnikfoodstory.com.
LOCAL RECIPES
Orancini
Peel an orange, preferably unwaxed, organically grown
(you dont want pesticides on the skin). Cut the peel into
strips about 3-5cm long and 0.5cm wide. Pop the peel into
a dish and cover with water. Leave to stand for two days.
Put the strips and water in a pan, bring to the boil then
drain off the water. Add sugar in an amount equal to the
weight of the orange strips. Stir in the pan with just a drop
of water until the water evaporates. Again, leave to drain,
then roll the strips in sugar. Leave to dry.
Brutulane mjendule
Sugared almonds to you and me. Weigh out some almonds,
pop them in a pan with an equal amount of sugar. For every
50g of almonds add a dessert spoon of water. Warm the Dubrovnik Food Story Archives
pan on a medium heat, constantly stirring until all the sugar
melts, then solidifies and sticks to the almonds. Shake onto
a plate and leave to cool before attacking.
Kotonjata
From Dubrovnik in the south, its a strongly flavoured des-
sert that looks like a jelly. No friends, its not a jelly at all
but is instead the wiggly product of a sweet and bitter fruit
called dunja. Wise old grandmas often place a number of
these yellow guys all around the house to ward off the
raunchier stenches that can build up from time to time.
Mantala
A purple - coloured cake served with sweet black syrup,
almonds and cinnamon. Sun Gardens Dubrovnik Food Story Archives
IRISH PUB KARAKA to enjoy the sights and sounds of the most popular street,
This popular meeting spot is a must during your trip to Stradun, by day.QD3, Luarica 1, tel. (+385-) 099 462 95
Dubrovnik. Its a delightful and lively place to enjoy a drink 55, www.labodega.hr. Open 08:00 - 02:00. PJA
with your friends while youre out visiting the Old Town. 6BXW
Big screen TVs show the latest sporting events, while this
fun-filled pub is always filled with people pouring out MATUKO
into the stone streets of Dubrovnik.QC2, Izmeu polaa This local family, known for producing some of the finest
5, tel. (+385-20) 32 39 70, www.irishpubkaraka.com. wines from Potomje, a village located in the Peljaac re-
Open 09:00 - 02:00. PTJAUGBXW gion, goes by the motto, Svi smo mi Mato Matuko samo
je Dundo Bobo. Their wine bar, located in the Old City
is a a great spot to unwind from a busy day. Sit back and
WINE BARS relax in this cozy brick and stone environment with a glass
DVINO of Royal Dinga or Poip. They also are currently the only
In a narrow street just off the Stradun, this is a great place place in Dubrovnik where you can smoke shisha.QC2, Pri
for sampling local tipple by the glass, with good advice on jeko 6, tel. (+385-) 099 807 08 02, www.matusko-vina.
what to try from the friendly staff. Attracts a good mix of hr. Open 10:00 - 02:00. PTJA6EGBXW
locals and tourists, most of whom end up engaged in half-
sozzled conversation on the stone steps outside. Along RAZONODA WINE BAR
with wine, you can enjoy the home made delicacies such This wine and Croatian tapas bar is one of the newest ad-
as prosciutto, cheese, kulen, olives, and a bit of this to a ditions to the Old Town. Its part of the Puci Palace Hotel
bit of that for a Dalmatian sensation.Breakfast is served and has a refined and gentlemens club feel. They offer the
from 8:00.QC2, Palmotieva 4a, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 30, finest Croatian wines, from the Peljeac region in south-
www.dvino.net. Open 10:00 - 02:00. JAGBW ern Croatia, to Istra in the northwest and Slavonia in the
northeast. As a snack, munch on some prut, cheese or
LA BODEGA DUBROVNIK marinated anchovies. Theres also plenty of unique drink
Conveniently located in the heart of the Old City, right options for all non-wine lovers to try, such as craft beer
next to the St. Blaise church, this is a great spot for drinking from Croatian Garden brewery, cocktails and an array of
some superb wine. This chic and trendy wine bar at night, domestic liquors brands.QC3, Od pua 1, tel. (+385-)
also offers a breakfast and brunch menu for the early birds 091 332 41 04. Open 12:00 - 24:00. PAGW
well worth visiting. It was for some time used as a prison, THE RECTORS PALACE (KNEEV DVOR)
and is surrounded by delightful parkland with some of the One of the loveliest buildings in the city and the seat of the
best views of the city, a great picnic spot. The Mineta fort, Rector, the figurehead of the Republic elected within the
just north of the Pile gate, with its stylized battlements, is nobility, whose term lasted for just one month confining
one of the symbols of the city, and St Johns fortress hous- him to these quarters which he could only leave on official
es the Maritime Museum and Aquarium. Apart from the occasions and religious holidays. The building changed
fortresses, each of which has its own story and character, its appearance after two explosions of gunpowder stored
the Pile and Ploe gates are also masterpieces. From these here, and its current appearance is mainly thanks to the
gates, you now access the Old Town over stone bridges renaissance designs of Juraj Dalmatinac of Zadar and Mi-
ending in drawbridges spanning the moat, now filled with chelozzo Mihelozzi of Florence in the 1460s. Alterations
park benches and orange trees. Above the gates youll see were added in baroque style in the 17th century following
reliefs of St Blaise, protector of the city.Qtel. +385 (0)20 63 the earthquake, and since the original building by Onofrio
88 00/+385 (0)20 63 88 01, www.citywallsdubrovnik.hr. della Cava, creator of the city aqueduct and fountains, was
Open 08:00-18:30. From May Open 07:00 - 18:30. Ad in gothic style, the result is a blend of styles which is time-
mission 150/50 kn. lessly romantic. The palaces frontage has a delightful col-
onnade with choir style decorative stone benches. Inside,
THE FRANCISCAN MONASTERY OF THE a beautiful courtyard is the venue for recitals and concerts.
FRIARS MINOR AND THE OLD PHARMACY The palace is now a Cultural History Museum where you
(FRANJEVAKI SAMOSTAN I STARA APOTEKA can view the richly appointed offices and quarters of the
MALE BRAE) Rector, plus the arsenal, courtroom and prison cells. Art-
The Romanesque cloister of the Franciscan monastery is works, costumes and domestic objects of the period are
an absolute delight, decorated with the remnants of old all on display.QD3, Pred Dvorom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32
frescoes, and with delicate pillars surrounding a garden 14 97, www.dumus.hr. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Open from
where orange trees grow. The monastery is most famous June 1 due to renovation. Unified ticket costing 120kn
for its pharmacy, among the oldest in Europe and the old- for adults, 100kn for groups (10+ persons) and 25kn for
est one still working. The monastery houses a museum students and pupils includes entry to Rectors Palace,
where you can see original items from the pharmacy, Maritime Museum, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Rev
plus an extensive library with precious incunabula, manu- elin Fortress archaeological exhibit, House of Marin
scripts, a large collection of musical notations and a trea- Dri, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Natural History Museum
sury of artworks. Outside the Church of the Little Brothers and Duli, Masle, Pulitika Gallery. J
on Stradun youll see a lovely relief of the Pieta, and, on
a lighter note, a gargoyle below knee height. The trick is
to stand on it facing the wall its the test of a real man! GALLERIES
Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sun 07:00, 09:30, 11:00 and 19:00. DUBROVNIK ART GALLERY (UMJETNIKA
QD2, Placa 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 10, www.malabraca. GALERIJA DUBROVNIK)
wix.com/malabraca. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Admission This 1930s mansion just outside the Old Town at Ploe
30/15 kn. is the place to see an extensive collection of Croatian
40 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
Sightseeing
modern paintings and sculpture which encompasses al- THE DULI, MASLE, PULITIKA GALLERY/RON-
most all important artists since the beginning of the 20th ALD BROWN MEMORIAL HOUSE (GALERIJA
century.QL5, Put Frana Supila 23, tel. (+385-20) 42 65 DULI, MASLE, PULITIKA/MEMORIJALNA
90, www.ugdubrovnik.hr. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed KUA RONALD BROWN)
Mon. Unified ticket costing 120kn for adults,100kn for This fine house next to the Rectors Palace is home to a
groups (10+ persons) and 25kn for students and pupils gallery with some of the finest views in Europe the win-
includes entry to Rectors Palace, Maritime Museum, dows look out onto the Cathedral, rivalling the artworks
Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Revelin Fortress archaeo inside. The three painters that make up the gallerys title
logical exhibit, House of Marin Dri, Dubrovnik Art are famous for painting local themes in eye-poppingly
Gallery, Natural History Museum and Duli, Masle, vivid style. uro Pulitikas swirly, candy-coloured land-
Pulitika Gallery. scapes are a particular joy, and its a wonder that this
little-frequented attraction doesnt get a whole lot more
OTOK GALLERY, ARL (GALERIJA OTOK, ARL) visitors. The building was repaired and renovated by the
A gallery in the Dubrovnik Lazaret the former quarantine US Government and serves as a memorial to Secretary
houses which now houses an artists community, includ- of Commerce Ronald Brown who in 1996 died in a plane
ing workshops and this gallery. Contemporary local art of crash flying to Dubrovnik.QD3, Poljana Marina Dria
an excellent standard.QL2, Frana Supila 8, tel. (+385-20) 1, tel. (+385-20) 61 26 45, www.ugdubrovnik.hr. Open
32 46 33. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admis 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Unified ticket costing 120kn
sion free. for adults, 100kn for groups (10+ persons) and 25kn for
students and pupils includes entry to Rectors Palace,
THE ATELIER OF DUBRAVKA LOI Maritime Museum, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Rev
The Atelier of Dubravka Loi provides art lovers with a elin Fortress archaeological exhibit, House of Marin
peak into the mind and soul of one of Dubrovniks premier Dri, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Natural History Museum
modern artists. Ms. Loi combines several mediums and and Duli, Masle, Pulitika Gallery.
artistic genres: painting, installation pieces and costume
design. The Atelier is housed in an industrial space and THE SPONZA PALACE (PALAA SPONZA)
features some of her ongoing projects. Visits are available For many, the most romantic of Dubrovniks buildings,
by appointment only.QObala Stjepana Radia 2, tel. with its gallery on Stradun and its mix of gothic and renais-
(+385-) 91 439 13 53, www.dubravkalosic.com/. sance detail, this was always a public building. Directly fac-
trading fabric a Ragusan cubit or lakat (elbow) you can dating back to 1444 was destroyed and rebuilt in 1928. The
see the rather more convenient measure near the bottom bell weighs two tonnes and was cast by a master crafts-
of the sculpture.QD2, Pred Dvorom. man famed far and wide for casting bells and cannons:
Ivan Krstitelj Rabljanin - or John the Baptist of Rab Island.
ORSULA PARK The towers clock with its sunburst centerpoint is rather
There is a gorgeous view overlooking the Old Town, all lovely in its simplicity.QD3, Pred Dvorom.
the way to Cavtat and the island of Lokrum, from this
phenomenal location next to the remains of the 14th THE CITY HALL AND MARIN DRI THEATRE
century St Orsulas Church. There is an amphitheatre here (VIJENICA I KAZALITE MARINA DRIA)
that seats 350 and is set on a cliff, 200 metres above the South of the clock tower on the eastern end of Stradun
sea. It is a 25 minute walk from the Old Town or a short begins a remarkable chain of buildings. The first is the old
ride by the No.10 bus. After the Ambient Croatia Associa- Arsenal, with three (originally four) huge arches facing
tion saved and renovated this location, Dubrovnik has also seawards. Here, galleons would be brought into dry dock
gained a new summer stage for concerts of various do- for repair. (Now, its a place to bring hungry stomachs for
mestic and international musical performers, who will play refilling, and for lubricating throats). The city coffee house
here throughout the summer.QMagistralni put 2, www. is a grand caf with seating overlooking St Blaises Church.
parkorsula.du-hr.net. Next door are the chambers of the city council, followed
by the Marin Dri Theatre. The buildings are fronted by
THE CITY BELLTOWER (GRADSKI ZVONIK, LUA steps and balustrades its a fine sight to see the theatre-
ZVONARA) goers and orchestras musicians gathered there on a warm
Look carefully at the bell in the tower that crowns the evening.QD3, Pred Dvorom 1. Open 9:00 - 12:00, 18:00
east end of Stradun, and youll notice the figures of two - 20:00.
men, poised to strike with hammers. If your zoom isnt up
to the task of making them out clearly, you can see their THE CITY HARBOUR (GRADSKA LUKA)
two older brothers in the Sponza palace next door. Their Dubrovnik owes its very existence to shipping. There is
green colour is a result of their copper composition rather evidence that the lands here were first colonised by Illyrian
than their roots on Mars. They are affectionately known as tribes in the 4th century, probably attracted by the secu-
zelenci the green ones or, individually, Maro and Baro, rity offered by the island which lay where the southern half
the descendents of the two original wooden figures. The of the Old Town now stands, and by the natural lie of the
bell is the only original part of the tower an older one land with Mount Sr standing guard. It lay at a natural rest-
students and pupils includes entry to Rectors Palace, THE CROATIAN WAR OF INDEPENDENCE
Maritime Museum, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Rev MUSEUM
elin Fortress archaeological exhibit, House of Marin The Fort Imperial on Mount Sr is the site of a permanent
Dri, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Natural History Museum exhibition dedicated toDubrovnik during the Homeland
and Duli, Masle, Pulitika Gallery. War 1991-1995. Displays include the fall of the Republic of
Dubrovnik, the Serbian aggression in 1991, the victory of
THE BIRTHPLACE OF MARIN DRI (DOM MA- the Croatian forces in 1995 and the devastating toll it took
RINA DRIA) on the local population and the citys rich cultural heritage.
This picturesque gothic town house is the place where QK2, Imperial Fort, Sr Hill. Open 09:00 - 18:00. From
Marin Dri was born. Dri only became accepted as one June Open 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 30kn.
of the greats of Croatian literature after his death, as he was
a bit too much of a wild card. His many exploits included THE SYNAGOGUE AND JEWISH MUSEUM (SINA-
sending a series of letters to the Medici family in Florence, GOGA I IDOVSKI MUZEJ)
seeking their help in overthrowing the Dubrovnik govern- The Synagogue (1352, the second oldest in Europe after
ment, convinced that it was run by elitist autocrats. He is Prague) and Jewish museum are set in a building which
best loved for his satirical plays, and he is regarded as one could be reached from within the surrounding houses in
of the greats of European renaissance literature. His birth- what was once the Jewish ghetto. A permanent Jewish
place has been transformed into an in situ exhibition of community here was founded at the end of the 15th cen-
the playwright, whose comedies are regularly performed tury following the exodus from Portugal and Spain. The
at the Dubrovnik Summer Festival.QB3, iroka 7, tel. community flourished and included respected doctors,
(+385-20) 32 32 42/(+385-20) 32 32 96, www.muzej- merchants and state representatives. Jews in Dubrovnik
marindrzic.eu. Open 09:00 - 20:30. From June Open enjoyed relative freedom, but there were some restric-
09:00 - 22:00. Unified ticket costing 120kn for adults, tions on their activities at certain points in history. The
100kn for groups (10+ persons) and 25kn for students Synagogue is tiny and delightful, with heavy velvet drapes
and pupils includes entry to Rectors Palace, Maritime and a richly painted, midnight blue ceiling. The museum
Museum, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Revelin For contains valuable menorahs and Torah scrolls, alongside
tress archaeological exhibit, House of Marin Dri, information on the history of the Jewish community in
Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Natural History Museum and Dubrovnik.QD2, udioska 5, tel. (+385-20) 32 12 04.
Duli, Masle, Pulitika Gallery. J Open 09:00 - 19:00. Admission 40kn.
MLJET
Mljet gets a growing share of tourists, but as one of the
more remote and less developed islands, with a limited fer-
ry service, it lacks the kind of mass tourism of much of the
Dalmatian coast and some other more accessible islands.
This isnt the place to come for late night bars, concerts or
discos. One might hope it never will be.
Be prepared to fall in love with nature all over again, for this
island has a stunning quality waiting for you to discover.
Croatias 8th largest island is approximately 3km wide
and 37km long making attractive to explore for a short or
Photo by Boris Kaan, Orebi Tourist Board Archives lengthier stop. It has an area of roughly 100 square km with
131km of coastline and many little niches and coves to What to See
discover, so youd be forgiven for wanting to stay. With five Mljet National Park (Nacionalni Park Mljet) Pristanite
distinct forest tree varieties, abundant fauna and lush veg- 2, Goveari, tel. (+385-20) 74 40 41, np-mljet@np-
etation, its easy to see why Mljet is called the Green Island. mljet.hr, www.np-mljet.hr. Established in 1960, the park
Mljet offers a panorama of coastline, cliffs, reefs and numer- is Mljets top attraction. The park, encompasses 54 square
ous islets as well as the rich topography of the hills that rise kilometres at the western end of the island, with an aston-
steeply above the sea and plummet back into deep valleys ishing interior and coastline beauty. Veliko Jezero and Malo
sheltering ancient stone villages. The submarine world in- Jezero (Big Lake and Small Lake), and the villages of Soline,
cludes quite an array of fish and several types of corals. With Babine Kue, Pomena, Polae and Goveari all lie within the
fantastic weather, sailing, recreational sports, swimming, park boundaries. Of interest, this park represents the first
scuba diving, hiking and bicycle paths are only a fraction institutionalised attempt to protect the native eco-system
of the pleasures that you can enjoy here. The western end in the Adriatic.
of Mljet has been protected as a National Park since 1960.
Benedictine Monastery on the islet of St Mary (Samo-
Getting there and around stan Sv Marija) This tiny island, in a lake on the island of
Two ferry types are available to/from Dubrovnik, a car Mljet, is at the islands cultural and spiritual heart.
ferry and a catamaran mostly provided by Jadrolinija fer-
Polae The village is named for the ruin of a significant
ries. Mljet is only 8km away from the peninsula of Peljeac,
Roman palace and fortifications - one tower is 20m high
18km from Korula and 30km from Dubrovnik. There are
- built between the 2nd and the 5th century. Second in
a number of harbour ports in Mljet. Polae is its largest
size to the Palace of Diocletian in Split, you cant miss it: The
and main port of call in the north, however, you can also
road to Pomena slips right between its high walls.
access the island from Sobra which is best used to reach
Maranovii and Babino Polje. Other harbours include Pom- Pomena Located on the western coast of Mljet in the
ena which has daily connections to Dubrovnik (watch out National Park, about 200 m from Malo Jezero. This village,
for reefs and shallow water), and Lokve or Gonoturska port built after World War II, has only about 50 inhabitants living
where you can throw anchor just before the entry canal among charming thick forests and working in agriculture,
toward the Big Lake. fishing and tourism. The bay of Pomena is perfect for small
yachts, which can pull up to the pier while you enjoy the
www.inyourpocket.com hotels amenities.
Photo by Marin Veraja, Narona Archaelogical Museum, Metkovi Tourist Board Archives
Goveari Settlement began here in the late 18th Century Proura This medieval village was used by Ragusan nobles
when two families of land workers and fishermen from who - a bit like yourself - were looking for relaxing geta-
Babino Polje were given permission to settle by the Ben- way. Perched on a hill over a Blato (an intermittent lake)
edictines to work as cattle-breeders (goveda means cattle and the sea, Proura has a 17th Century watch tower and
in Croatian). Located in the national park, 5km inland, this three beautiful churches: the Church of the Holy Trinity, the
ethnologically interesting site is a great place to be sur- Church of St Martin and the Church of St Rocco.
rounded by peace, serenity and lush vegetation.
Maranovii The 18th Century Baroque house of the Pe
Babine Kue This picturesque little fishing village is locat- family is in the middle of the town. The 19th Century par-
ed on the shores of the Veliko jezero just beneath Goveari. ish church of St Anton rests on the foundations of an older
It offers a splendid view of the islet of St Mary. There are a church and features Gothic architectural elements. In near-
number of private rentals here, too. by Korita, the ruined 14th Century Church of St Mary of
the Hill mixes Gothic and Renaissance elements, and dem-
Babino Polje The central and largest inhabited area with onstrates features typical of the islands churches. A roughly
around 350 people, Babino Polje is the administrative square plan with a deep porch extending to the front, and
centre of the island. Stretched along a ridge above a by- a picturesque belfry na preslicu (on a distaff, that is, the
pass road and a field (the name means Grandmas Field), belfry has a split where the bell hangs, the way a distaffs
Babino Polje is surrounded with pine woods, groves of old, end is cleft to hold wool). Some of the manor houses have
twisted olive trees and vineyards, and 514m Veliki Grad, the Renaissance-Baroque elements. The town has its own 17th
highest hill on the island. Century defence tower with loopholes for firing. Korita is
Odysseuss Cave (Odisejeva pilja) Technically that named for the stone troughs, common on the island, that
would be Calypsos cave; Odysseus, shipwrecked on his are used to capture rainwater.
way home from the Trojan War, only stayed with the nymph MLJET TOURIST BOARD
seven years, and most of the time he was pining for his wife Around the side of the cafe at the ferry pier.QSobra bb,
and his home. After walking along a path lined with rock
Sobra, tel. (+385-20) 74 60 25, www.mljet.hr. Open
walls and wildflowers, which takes you out above a deep 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. June Open 08:00 - 19:00,
grotto and the crashing waves, you may wonder why he Sun 08:00 - 13:00.
was in such a hurry to leave. You can pick your way down
into the cave; come back another day by boat to squeeze
into it through a 30m tunnel. Local fishermen use the grot- youtube.com/inyourpocket
to as a harbour.
A highlight of a trip to Cavtat is the Bukovac house (Open tume (see our Where to eat pages). If you come in spring,
10.00 - 18.00. Admission 30kn), where one of the best- you can try dishes made with wild asparagus and see al-
loved Croatian artists, Vlaho Bukovac (1855-1922) grew up. mond orchards in bloom. The upland section borders with
As a child, he painted murals on the interior walls of the Herzegovina, for centuries the dividing line with the Otto-
lovely old villa, bringing them alive with colourful paintings man Empire. Its highest point is the Snjenica (snowy)
featuring semi-naive animal themes. Although subsequent peak, 1234m high. The village cemetery at Brotnice has
owners saw fit to paint over his works, they have been unusual gravestones (steci) of the Bogomil sect, featuring
restored with some success, and the delightful exhibition vivid primitive carvings and lettering in the ancient lan-
space upstairs features paintings and sketches surrounded guage of Bosnia. There are well-marked hiking trails, and
by original furniture from Bukovacs day. Bukovacs portraits organised trips include a hearty meal as part of the deal.
are especially personal and full of emotion. An exhibition The coastal part of Konavle is unusual for Croatia in that it
space on the ground floor is given over to the work of is characterised by limestone cliffs. At the village of Moii
young artists, and the shows feature contemporary works, there is a second century stone carving of the pagan god
a refreshing contrast with the antique mood of the rest of Mitreus, and scattered around are old houses with unusual
the house. Theres an idyllic garden at the back, and the conical chimneys. Molunat, the most southern coastal set-
whole experience is a rather uplifting one. tlement, is a quiet fishing village in a pretty cove.
TOURIST BOARD OF KONAVLE
QZidine 6, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 90 25, www.visit. SOKOL TOWER
cavtat-konavle.com. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 -
14:00. Closed Sun. May Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sun 08:00 Kids these days will say hey, this reminds me of a for-
- 14:00. June Open 08:00 - 20:00. tress in World of Warcraft, and they are not far off. Enter
an ancient fort located in Konavle and up on a 25 me-
ter high cliff, it dates back to 1420 and was most likely
KONAVLE used for military purposes. After long renovations, its
The Konavle region stretches from Cavtat to the border with open to the public and also maintains some archaeo-
Montenegro. The village of ilipi close to the airport is one logical items including Bronze Age weapons for the
of the cultural centres of Konavle, and on Sunday morn- feisty!QDunave, Konavle, www.citywallsdubrovnik.
ings you can witness the traditional songs and dances of hr. Open 10:00 - 16:00. May Open 10:00 - 17:00. Tick
Konavle and performers dressed in colourful folk costume. ets 50/35kn. June Open 09:00 - 18:00.
Konavle consists of a fertile valley plus upland and coastal
parts, all with stone villages. In the central valley, youll find
traditional rural restaurants where you can enjoy delicious
home grown food - locally reared meat and trout, some- instagram.com/croatiaiyp
times served by waiters and waitresses in traditional cos-
UPA DUBROVAKA
The road south from Dubrovnik snakes alongside a broad
bay dotted with some of the loveliest beaches to be found
on the Mediterranean.Their white pebbles are probably the
reason why the village of Srebreno was given its name,
which means Silver. The water here is that perfect aqua-
marine colour so beloved of the holiday brochures. The
town of Mlini is named after the water mills that you can
still see here, driven by streams that race down the moun-
tainside and emerge right on the beach, bringing the sea
to a temperature that could be named refreshing or freez-
ing depending on the hardiness of the swimmer in ques-
tion.
These resorts are not fashionable, one of the reasons be-
ing that this part of the coast was occupied by the Yugo-
slav army during the early 90s. The village of Kupari is all
Konavle Tourist Board Archives but devastated, as it was a military base. Clearly a dismal
situation for the local people, with a once thriving industry
lying dormant and some fine old buildings on the water-
AGRITOURISM front empty and pockmarked by bullets, but renovation
AGROTURIZAM LAPTALO is presently going on and things will get better. We highly
Not far from Dubrovnik in a village named Gromaa recommend these resorts for the following reasons. The
youll find this family smallholding. Throughout the bathing is superb (tingly refreshing, mmm!) There is plenty
year, if you call ahead, you can visit and enjoy home- of excellent accommodation in private apartments, and
made dishes cooked in the traditional way, and sample prices are more than reasonable. With Dubrovnik just 20
the familys liqueurs, wines and olive oil. Try the local minutes away by bus, this is a great place to stay if youre
sweet specialities arancine (orange), kontonjata on a budget and appreciate a quieter environment and
(quince) and mantala (grape, orange, nuts and spic- clean beaches.
es).QGromaa 56, Zaton, tel. (+385-20) 88 11 86/ Srebreno is the centre of this little region, and here youll
(+385-) 099 218 36 12, 098 72 51 02, www. find necessities such as the tourist information centre,
laptalo-agro.hr. Open by prior arrangement. banks, the post office and a large supermarket. Mlinis wa-
PILNKW terfront is possibly the most unusual weve ever seen: a pic-
KONOBA VINICA - MONKOVI FAMILY turesque village aspect is created by a stream, a watermill
Excellent option in the Konavle region south of Cavtat. and a massive plane tree dating back to 1752 right on the
If you ask nicely, the Monkovi family who run the beach. Nearby Plat has a pleasant hotel complex with little
place may show you their collection of folk costumes villas nestled in leafy shade.
as you digest your home made prosciutto, cheese, UPA DUBROVAKA TOURIST BOARD
roast meat, trout and garden salad. A drop of home Qetalite Dr.F.Tumana 7, Srebreno, Mlini, tel. (+385-
made rakija would go down a treat tooQPridvorje, 20) 48 62 54, www.dubrovnik-riviera.hr. Open 07:00
Ljuta, tel. (+385-20) 79 12 44/(+385-) 099 215 24 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. May Open 07:00 - 15:00, Sat
59, www.konobavinica.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00. 8:00 - 12:00. From June Open 7:00 - 20:00, Sat and Sun
PA6LBW 08:00 - 12:00.
TENNIS
DUBROVNIK TENNIS CLUB
QH2, etalite kralja Zvonimira 7, tel. (+385-20) 43
73 55. Open 07:00 - 21:00. From May Open 07:00 -
22:00. 80kn/h during the day, after the lights are on
youll pay 100kn/h.
2 STARS
ADRIATICQG3, Masarykov put 9, tel. (+385-20) 43 35
20, www.hotelimaestral.com. 107Total rooms. PA
FLEGBKW hh
HOSTELS
DUBROVNIK YOUTH HOSTELQI3, Vinka Sagres
tana 3 (Bana Josipa Jelaia 15-17), tel. (+385-20) 42 32
41, www.hfhs.hr. ARGBKW
HOSTEL 365 FOR UQI2, Vukovarska 14, tel. (+385-
20) 64 23 21, www.365foru.com/.
VILA MICIKAQG/H2, Mata Vodopia 10, tel. (+385-
20) 43 73 32, www.vilamicika.hr. 8 Total rooms.
PA6LW
ISLANDS
BON REPOSQDubrovaka cesta 19, Korula, tel.
(+385-20) 72 68 00, www.korcula-hotels.com. 150Total
rooms. ALKCW hhh
HOTEL GLAVOVIQObala Ivana Kuljevana 15,
Lopud, tel. (+385-20) 75 93 59, www.hotel-glavovic.hr.
12Total rooms. PABKW hhh
HOTEL KORULA DE LA VILLEQObala Franje
Tumana 4, Korula, tel. (+385-20) 72 69 00, www.
korcula-hotels.com. 22 Total rooms. PA6B
KW hhhh
HOTEL ODISEJ MLJETQPomena bb, Mljet, tel.
(+385-20) 36 21 11, www.adriaticluxuryhotels.com.
157 Total rooms. PTA6FGB KDCW
hhh
OUT OF TOWN
HOTEL CROATIA CAVTATQFrankopanska 10, Cavtat,
tel. (+385-20) 47 55 55, www.adriaticluxuryhotels.com.
487 Total rooms. PHAUFLGBKD
CW hhhhh
HOTEL OSTREAQMali Ston bb, tel. (+385-20) 75 45
55, www.ostrea.hr. 14 Total rooms. PA6GB
KW hhh
HOTEL SUPETAR CAVTATQObala Ante
Starevia 27, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 98 33, www.
adriaticluxuryhotels.com. 28 Total rooms. PJA
FLGBKDCW hhh
SUNGARDENS DUBROVNIKQNa moru 1, Oraac,
tel. (+385-20) 36 15 00, www.sungardensdubrovnik.
com. 408 Total rooms. PZTHAUFLG
KDCW hhhhh
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