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Maps Events Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Dubrovnik
Spring 2017

Easter celebrations
Past and present

Local art
Discover Lenas
colourful canvases
N21 - complimentary copy
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
Contents

E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S

Arrival & Getting Around 7


Lost? Help is at hand

City Basics 10
Making your stay stress free

Easter 11
Bunnies, eggs and lambs

Whats On 15
Lena Kramaris Interview

Restaurants 20
We give you the bread n butter of where to eat

Local Flavour 31
Flavoursome dishes

Coffee & Cakes 34


What better way to relax

Nightlife 36
Are you ready to party

Sightseeing 38
All those things you musnt miss

Dubrovnik Surroundings 46
Natures gift to uplift

Leisure 55
Recreational pleasure

Shopping 57
Take home the best memories and souvenirs

Hotels 60
Places to stay for every pocket

Maps & Street Register


Street Register 62
City Centre Map 63 Pengana jaja - specially decorated eggs, unique to the Dubrovnik area,
made by using the wax relief method; and pome - a decorative orna-
City Map 64
ment made from plaited palm leaves, usually featuring a cross that
Dubrovnik County Map 66 is taken to Mass on Palm Sunday to be blessed. Photo by Margarita
Biskup.

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Foreword
Youve made a great decision coming to Dubrovnik in
the spring! Though Dubrovnik is always a good decision
:) While the popularity of this jewel of a city continues to
grow rapidly, it still hasnt reached its peak. Sometimes
there are so many people on its street you cant actually
see the streets! Thats why its good to be here in the spring. Publisher
Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb
And not to mention the amazing weather which may even ISSN 1846-0852
allow you to take a swim but you wont burn in the sun
nor be stifled by the heat. This time of the year will also Company Office & Accounts
give you the possibility to mingle among locals as they are Vinja Arambai
still not too occupied by the peak season. The special occa- Dubrovnik In Your Pocket, Drakovieva 66, Zagreb, Croatia
Tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 557 38 27, fax (+385-1) 492 39 24
sion this season is Easter, which falls in mid April. Its a very croatia@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com
traditional and family oriented time of year. Youll get the Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.
chance to see the special traditions from this part of Croatia Printed by Radin print, Sveta Nedjelja
and enjoy its culinary treats and delicacies. In our feature
you can learn about Easters symbols and traditions and Editorial
Editor Vinja Arambai
see how you can join the fun. And if you get the chance, Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinovi, Frank Jelini, Nikola
dont miss the surrounding area. Your experience just wont Badovinac, Jenna Parish, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedi
be complete without visiting Konavle or the Elafiti islands, Senior Assistant Editor Kristina timac
the Neretva River, Korula, Mljet and Peljeac. They all offer Assistant Editor Blanka Vali
something specific, different and unique. Enjoy! Research Tea Biki
Design Ivana Mihokovi
Photography Dubrovnik In Your Pocket team unless otherwise
COVER STORY stated
Cover Dario Bandur
Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukievi
An amazing aerial shot of Dubrovniks Support Sales Blanka Vali, Kristina timac
Old City by young Dubrovnik photog- croatia@inyourpocket.com
rapher Dario Bandur. See his FB page
and website to find more Dubrovnik Copyright notice
pics. Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps
copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this pub-
lication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts
for the purpose of review, without written permission from the
publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket
instagram.com/croatiaiyp is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4,
Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

6 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com


Arrival & Getting Around
ARRIVING BY BOAT book one month in advance (maximum) and no later than
There are two harbours in Dubrovnik: the centuries-old 24 hours prior to travelling.QI2, Obala S. Radia 40, tel.
harbour snug against the walls of the Old Town, and the (+385-20) 41 80 00/(+385-20) 41 83 80, www.jadrolinija.
commercial port at Gru. The Jadrolinija ferry office and hr. Open 08:00 - 16:30; 19:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 09:30;
quay are at Gru, a ten minute bus ride from the Old Town. 19:00 - 20:00. From April 10 Open 08:00 - 16:30; 19:00 -
The port looks onto the Lapad peninsula, where many of 20:00. Mon, Wed Open 08:00 -16:30; 19:00 - 22:00. Sun
Dubrovniks hotels are located. Getting to town: hop onto Open 08:00 - 09:30; 19:00 - 20:00. From May 19 Open
an orange bus numbered 1A, 1B, 1C or 3. A ticket for a sin- 08:00 - 16:30; 19:00 - 20:00. Mon, Wed, Fri Open 08:00
gle trip costs 12 kn if you buy it from a news kiosk, 15 kn if -16:30; 19:00 - 22:00. Sun Open 08:00 - 09:30; 19:00 -
you buy it from the driver. Tickets must be validated using 20:00.
the machine next to the driver immediately upon boarding.
KAPETAN LUKA, KRILO
G&V LINE Krilo catamaran is running to Dubrovnik from Split and
Catamaran (Nona Ana) line from Dubrovnik to Mljet via back, via Milna, Hvar, Korula and Mljet April 24 - October
ipan, sails to Korula and Lastovo in July and August. Tick- 28. Check the sailing schedule here. Tickets can be bought
ets can be bought in Gru Harbour in front of the boat at at Avansa Travel (Open 09:00 - 20:00. Sun 09:00 - 16:00.)
least half an hour before departure (one hour in July and and Elite Travel (Open 08:00 - 16:00.) agencies in port at
August). As changes to time-table are possible, check it by Gru. During the summer season, tickets get sold out up
calling the phone number mentioned above 8:00 - 16:00. to 5 days before the departure.QI2, Port Gru, www.
Catamaran cannot board any vehicles.QG1, Vukovarska krilo.hr. 80 - 190kn one way, depending on your final
36, tel. (+385-20) 31 31 19, www.gv-line.hr. 25 - 95kn destination.
one way per person depending on time of the year and
your final destination. ARRIVING BY BUS
JADROLINIJA The coach station is a short walk from the ferry terminal at
Jadrolinja ferries operate to Elafiti islands, Mljet island, be- Gru with all its amenities. T here are frequent services to
tween Mljet and Peljeac, and to the Italian port of Bari. almost all Croatian destinations, while international lines
Tickets for local catamarans and international ferries can mostly head for Bosnia and Herzegovina, with a handful
be purchased online. For local catamarans it is possible to of buses for cities in Italy and Montenegro. Coach travel is

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Arrival & Getting Around
the quickest and cheapest choice for those on a budget, COACH STATION (AUTOBUSNI KOLODVOR)
but if youre heading for Zagreb, check prices with Croatia QH1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II bb, tel. (+385-) 060 30
Airlines first. You may save yourself some money and a 14 50 70, www.libertasdubrovnik.hr. Open 05:30 - 22:30.
hour journey! Ticket office: open 05:30 - 21:30, tel. 060
30 50 70 for information. Changing money: head east for
Gru harbour, where there are ATMs and exchange offices. ARRIVING BY CAR
Toilets: inside the terminal, costing 3kn. Left luggage: For the time being, there is a motorway to Ploe (exit
the cloakroom (garderoba) works 04:30 - 22:00, 5kn for the Karamatii), 100 km away from Dubrovnik. After the exit
first hour, and 1.50kn per hour thereafter. Public phones just follow signs for Dubrovnik. Just south of Metkovi you
are on the platform. Getting to town: buses to town stop pass through a corridor belonging to Bosnia and Herzego-
right outside the station; take line 1A, 1B, or 3. Tickets cost vina, so keep your passport or ID card handy. Check Visa
15kn from the driver or 12kn if you buy them in a kiosk or under City Basics.
in a ticket office. Taxis wait by the platform. Via Bosnia and Herzegovina: You can enter BiH from
the A3 (E70) heading east from Zagreb, or via one of the
TOURIST INFORMATION roads heading south from Hungary. Of the possible routes,
CENTRES Bosanska Gradika Banja Luka Jajce Mostar is prob-
ably quickest, but you may wish to take a detour through
the fair city of Sarajevo. When you get into Dubrovnik, a one
way system leads east and west of the Old Town try to
have a map handy!

ARRIVING BY PLANE
The airport is located 20 km southeast of Dubrovnik. Its
The Tourist Information Centres enlisted below are the
small, clean, and functional. There is a restaurant and caf,
official centres of the Dubrovnik Tourist Board. All the in-
plus information, exchange offices, and ATMs. A car hire
formation and materials made available are free and you
facilities are to be found in the arrivals hall.
are more than welcome to visit them.
Getting to town: scheduled flights are met by an Atlas
bus which trundles into town (40 kn one-way), dropping
PILE
off at Pile Gate (main entrance to the Old Town) before
QC2, Brsalje 5, tel. (+385-20) 31 20 11, www.
proceeding to the ferry port and the bus station. Munici-
tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. June Open
pal buses no. 11, 27 and 38 also connect the airport to the
08:00 - 21:00.
town centre (28 kn one way), but only run a few times a
GRU day. A taxi ride into town will cost 200 250 kn.
QH1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 1, tel. (+385-20) 41
79 83, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. DUBROVNIK AIRPORT (ZRANA LUKA DU-
Sat, Sun Open 08:00 - 14:00. May Open 08:00 - BROVNIK)
20:00. From June Open 08:00 - 21:00. Qilipi, Konavle, tel. (+385-20) 77 31 00/(+385-20) 77
33 33, www.airport-dubrovnik.hr.
LAPAD
QG2, Masarykov put 2, Dvori Lapad, tel. (+385-20)
43 74 60, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 09:00 - 16:00, CAR RENTAL
Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. May 1 - 15 Open 08:00 AVIS - BUDGET
- 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. QDubrovnik Airport, ilipi, tel. (+385-) 091 314 30 19,
May 16 - 31 Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - www.avis.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. A
12:00, 17:00 - 20:00. From June Open 08:00 -20:00.
DOLLAR&THRIFTY
LOPUD
QDubrovnik Airport, ilipi, tel. (+385-20) 77 35 88/
QObala I. Kuljevana 12, tel. (+385-20) 32 23 22,
(+385-) 098 42 49 03, www.carrentalsubrosa.com.
www.tzdubrovnik.hr. Open from May.
Open 07:00 - 21:00, andro.sukno@subrosa.hr. A
IPAN
QLuka bb, Luka ipanska, tel. (+385-20) 75 80 84, HERTZ
www.tzdubrovnik.hr. Open from June. Also at Dubrovnik Airport, ilipi 08:00 - 20:00 every day,
tel: (+385-20) 77 15 68, (+385-) 091 425 11 11.QL2, Frana
ZATON Supila 9, tel. (+385-20) 42 50 00/(+385-) 091 425 00 01,
QZaton Veliki 2, tel. (+385-20) 89 12 30, www. www.hertz.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00,
tzdubrovnik.hr. Open From May 15. Sun on request. A

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Arrival & Getting Around
MACK
Also at Dubrovnik Airport, ilipi, tel. (+385-) 098 32 09 15,
098 42 21 92, Open 08:00 - 20:00.QL2, Frana Supila 3, tel.
(+385-20) 42 37 47/(+385-) 098 32 09 15, www.rent-a-
car.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. A

UNI RENT
Also at Dubrovnik Airport, ilipi, tel. (+385-20) 77 34 80,
dubrovnik-airport@uni-rent.hr, Open 08:00 - 20:00.QF/
G3, Masarykov put 9, tel. (+385-20) 33 36 64/(+385-)
099 219 55 15, www.uni-rent.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00,
Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A

PARKING
Central Dubrovnik can be a nightmare when it comes to
parking, and its not uncommon to see visitors driving
around in circles for hours in the hope of finding a free
space. Your best bet is to head for the multi-storey car
park at Ilijina Glavica (Zagrebaka ulica, K-2), well-placed
for people entering the city from the west. A bus shuttles
passengers from the car park to the Old Towns Pile Gate,
although with Pile sitting a mere ten minutes downhill on
foot, you might not need it. Parking costs 5 - 40kn per hour
depending on which zone youre in, and the season.

SANITAT DUBROVNIK
QMarka Marojice 5, tel. (+385-20) 64 01 40, www.
sanitat.hr/en/.
RADIO TAXI DUBROVNIK
PUBLIC TRANSPORT Qtel. (+385-20) 41 14 11, www.radiotaxidubrovnik.
com.
The orange city buses are run by Libertas (hooray, free-
dom!). Youll be amazed how efficient and clean they are. TAXI RAGUSA DUBROVNIK
They connect the coach station and Gru harbour with the Qtel. (+385-) 800 14 41, www.taxidubrovnik.eu.
Old Town and hotels on Lapad, and take you to Cavtat in
the south of the county, and Peljeac in the north. See the
companys website or any number of placards or fliers in TRAVEL AGENCIES
the city for a route map. Tickets for journeys within the city GULLIVER TRAVEL
cost 12 kn from news kiosks (15 kn from the driver) and Excursions, unique Croatia cruises, tours, transfers... www.
must be validated in the ticket-stamping machines imme- croatia-excursions.hrQI2, Obala Stjepana Radia 25,
diately upon boarding. Out-of-town routes cost a little bit tel. (+385-20) 41 08 88, www.gulliver.hr. Open 08:00 -
more (the journey to Cavtat for example costs 25 kn each 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A
way) and tickets are bought from the driver.
KORKYRA
LIBERTAS QE1, Hvarska 42, tel. (+385-20) 42 16 89, www.korkyra-
QI2, Vukovarska 42, tel. (+385-) 099 407 32 74/(+385- dubrovnik.com. Open 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
20) 35 70 20, www.libertasdubrovnik.hr. From May Open 09:00 - 21:00. A

VIVADO
TAXI Boat excursions, accommodation, B&B, airport transfer,
There are multiple taxi companies in Dubrovnik, so there tourist information...Qetalite Marka Marojice 16, Mlini,
should be no shortage of transport to get you from A to B. tel. (+385-) 098 166 31 61, www.vivado.hr. Open 09:00
Rates appear to be uniform throughout the city, with prices - 20:00. N
starting at 29kn, and each kilometre costing you 9kn.

PLAVI TAXI DUBROVNIK facebook.com/


Qtel. (+385-20) 33 22 22. dubrovnikinyourpocket

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City Basics
ELECTRICITY NATIONAL HOLIDAYS
The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the
United States will need to use a transformer to run electri- January 1 New Years Day
cal appliances. January 6 Epiphany
April 16 Easter
April 17 Easter Monday
MONEY May 1 International Workers Day
There are plenty of exchange offices around Dubrovnik, as June 15 Corpus Christi
well as abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours June 22 Anti-Fascist Resistance Day
a day. Many restaurants and bars accept credit cards, but June 25 Statehood Day
not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on August 5 Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day
you. If youre planning a trip to one of the islands in the area, August 15 Feast of the Assumption
you should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount of October 8 Independence Day
cash you think youll need for the trip, as finding places that November 1 All Saints Day
let you put it on plastic could be a problem. December 25 Christmas
December 26 Saint Stephens Day
ROADS
When behind the wheel drivers must always have their
driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them. SMOKING
Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt Bearing in mind that Croatia is very much a pavement-caf
and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alco- culture in which people tend to socialise outdoors, it does
hol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in mean that outdoor tables at eating and drinking establish-
urban areas is 50 km/h unless otherwise marked, 80 km/h ments are more packed than usual. Recent law amend-
on secondary roads and 130 km/h on highways. As they ments give cafes the choice in opting for smoking permits
say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer. or not, yet it is forbidden in all other enclosed public spaces
including restaurants where it has never been easy to find
www.inyourpocket.com a spare seat at even the most popular eateries if youre pre-
pared to move inside.

TOILETS
There are four public toilets in Dubrovnik Old City which
will cost you 5 kn. Two of them are in Pile, one in Ploe,
and one is at the Fishmarket (Peskarija). All are open 07:00
- 23:00, Peskarija 07:00 - 02:00.

WATER
Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.

WHEN THINGS GO WRONG


Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Dubrovnik signifi-
cantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should
keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an
emergency, Croatia has implemented Europes wide Emer-
gency Number (+385-) 112 which then transfers you to
police, ER or the fire department. Depending on the city
district, in case you were involved in an accident or were
arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In
that case, contact your embassy or consulate.
The main building for ER is located in General Hospital in
Roka Mietia bb (H-3) where everything necessary will
be done. In case of an car accident call HAK road help
24/7 (+385-) 1987, and as for accidents on the sea call
(+385-) 195.

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Easter
One of the lovely things about Croatia is that you very much
feel the cycle of the seasons, each bringing its particular
joys. Christmas and New Year come and go, the snow falls
and melts. Young and old prepare their costumes for Car-
nival on Shove Tuesday, the last day to enjoy rich food and
riotous fun before Lent. Then follow 40 days of abstinence
and prayer.
Towards the end of Lent comes Holy Week, a time of sol-
emnness since the Thursday before Easter marks the day
Christ was crucified. After Mass on this day in Catholic
churches flowers are removed from the altar and the bells
may be tied up so they go silent. Legend has it that the bells
go to Rome to mark Easter.
Good Friday for Catholics is a fast no meat and nothing
fatty should be eaten, and the amount of food eaten should
be just enough to stave off hunger. Interestingly though,
drinking red wine is encouraged to strengthen the blood.

During Holy Week in households across the country spring


cleaning takes place to mirror the spiritual and bodily
cleanses and to make homes bright as a pin for the Easter
celebrations to come.
Everyone can understand why we celebrate the departure
of winter and the coming of spring. But if we know a little
bit more about life in rural communities it becomes clearer
what all the symbols of Easter are about.
Still today many peoples livelihoods depend directly on a
good harvest and the wellbeing of their livestock not to
mention their own health and strength of themselves and Photo by Vinja Arambai
that of their family. On Easter Sunday in Croatia, in towns,
cities and villages alike, a very popular custom to this day
The decorated eggs are called pisanice, and while the word
is taking a basket of food to Mass to be blessed. At Easter,
seems to be related to pisati (to write) the word stems
the blessed food is the first thing to be eaten. This is to help
from an old Slavonic word meaning to paint. However in
bestow health on the family. The eggshells left after peeling
some parts of Croatia the designs also include written mes-
the blessed eggs were to be kept and buried in the garden
sages, and often the eggs are exchanged as tokens of love
to help the fertility of the land. Other rituals less often seen
or friendship.
today include the housewife running home from church
early to sow the corn to guarantee a good harvest. There is also a game called tucanje in which children knock
their coloured eggs together. The first to break drops out,
DECORATED EGGS
and the winner of the game is the egg which stays intact
The significance of eggs as a symbol of Easter is clear as
through all the rounds.
eggs give new life they are a symbol of fertility. It is thought
that eggs have been seen in this way since prehistoric EASTER BUNNIES
times since clay eggs have been found at archaeological The significance of the Easter Bunny is a little more dis-
sites in this part of the world. puted. Some say that the rabbit is a symbol of spring and
therefore Easter because rabbits breed particularly rapidly.
In many countries of central and eastern Europe decorating
Not only do rabbits and hares tend to have large litters,
Easter eggs is a very important cultural activity. Tradition-
the females can also conceive a second litter before they
ally, every household would colour eggs using natural dyes
have given birth to the first. This is called superfetation,
such as onion skins or berries, creating designs either by
and when you know this its hardly surprising rabbits are a
wrapping leaves around the egg before dyeing; by drawing
symbol of fertility!
designs in molten wax prior to colouring (wax resist) or by
engraving the already coloured egg. However, this activity However there are also folk legends connected with our be-
can be taken to a whole new level achieving astonishingly loved Easter Bunny. German settlers in the USA are believed
rich and intricate designs. This is why decorating Easter eggs to have imported an Easter custom whereby children made
is listed as part of Croatias intangible cultural heritage. nests for a rabbit to put coloured eggs into if they had been

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Easter

Photo by Vinja Arambai

good. The popularity of the Easter Bunny then grew in the WHAT THE LOCALS SAY
English-speaking world. This custom is also still alive in the DR JASNA APO from the Institute for Ethnology and
Srijem region of eastern Croatia possibly bequeathed by Folklore, author of Croatian Easter Customs - Lenten and
ethnic Germans who lived in that culturally diverse region. Easter Customs of the Croatian People in the First Half of
GENTLE LAMBS the 20th Century: Daily Life, Popular Piety and Community
A lamb is also a popular motif decorating Easter cards. The (1997)
lamb is of great significance in Christianity since Christ, the DIYP: Have any Easter customs in Croatia already
Lamb of God, sacrificed his life to save humanity, and thus disappeared, and if so which ones?
the Easter story was born. This is why in the religious calen- Dr apo: Customs which are related to Easter, like other
dar Easter is even more significant than Christmas since at customs and traditions related to other dates in the Catho-
this time we celebrate the life and deeds of Jesus, not just lic calendar, are in constant flux: some traditions disap-
his birth. pear while others change, adapting to the contemporary
EASTER IN DUBROVNIK moment. There are scarcely any traditions which havent
In the Dubrovnik region decorating eggs using the wax re- changed either in their shape, content or the meaning
lief method is a cultural activity that is taken very seriously. which people ascribe to them. However, in Croatia those
The technique of drawing designs in molten beeswax and processes were unusual because following the atheisation
dipping the eggs in water coloured with natural dyes such that occurred in socialist Yugoslavia (1945-1990) traditions
as onion skins or pine needles is passed down through the related to the Catholic Church were suppressed or pushed
generations and is known locally as penganje. A great many out of the public sphere. The process of modernisation, par-
eggs are prepared by each family since eggs are given as ticularly industrialisation and urbanisation, also contributed
gifts to family members, friends, neighbours and respected to their gradual disappearance. However, with the founda-
members of the community. tion of the modern Croatian state traditions and customs
related to Easter and other Catholic feasts are very much be-
An art form unique to Dubrovnik is the poma, a particularly ing renewed and are gaining a new impetus, and through
decorative ornament made from plaited palm leaves, usu- presentation in the media local customs are becoming part
ally featuring a cross. These, or olive branches, are taken to of the overall Croatian cultural heritage.
Mass on Palm Sunday to be blessed, much as in other parts
of the world people take branches of palm, olive or pussy DIYP: To what extent do customs vary throughout
willow. The blessed branches are taken home and kept Croatia?
as decorations to ensure good health in the coming year. Dr apo: Despite their shared Christian foundations in the
Workshops are held today for young people helping keep Easter context of customs, in the narrower sense focused on
alive the skill of plaiting palm leaves. Holy Week, Easter Sunday and Easter Monday, and despite
the mainly Slavic basis of Croatian traditional culture, there
12 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
Easter
are significant differences in local practices. This happened
due to the way the Croatian regions are incorporated into
different cultural spheres: Mediterranean in the south and
central European in the north. One outstanding difference
which results from these facts is evident in the processions
related to Holy Week and Easter. On the coast, especially in
Dalmatia, during Holy Week local Brotherhoods organise
processions grieving Christs suffering and the Crucifixion.
Exceptionally subdued in character they are similar to the
processions in, for example, Spain and southern Italy. The
procession that takes place in Hvar from the night of Maun-
dy Thursday and into Good Friday has become an interna-
Dr. Jasna apo
tionally renowned tourist attraction. Meanwhile, the pro-
cessions in northern Croatian regions are oriented towards
celebrating the Resurrection and are held on Easter Sunday. DIYP: How does your Easter Sunday look?
Dubravka: In recent years after Mass on Easter Sunday we
DIYP: Could you tell us about some of the most take a pinca and eggs to be blessed and go out for a family
interesting customs in the Zagreb and Dubrovnik lunch.
regions?
Dr apo: Decorating eggs and baking special sweet bread DIYP: What do you eat for Easter Sunday lunch?
are two widespread Easter traditions in Croatia. In the Du- Dubravka: We like soup with homemade noodles; lamb,
brovnik region, unlike other coastal areas, Easter eggs are kid goat and veal cooked in sauce with potatoes is a real
decorated using wax resist to create ornaments (the Du- treat, with cake and pinca for dessert.
brovnik coast, Konavle and Mljet). Before colouring, most
often using a red colour, plant motifs are drawn onto the
eggs in molten wax, and after the wax is melted away the
eggshell retains its natural colour. Eggs are decorated in this
THE UDIJE FESTIVAL
way along the Dubrovnik coastline and in Konavle but not
in the City itself. However, the whole area is familiar with a The udije Festival celebrates a Holy Week tradition in
fragrant sweet bread known as pinca. In the Dubrovnik area Dalmatia of re-enacting the story of the Resurrection.
I would also highlight the beautifully plaited palm fronds Twelve men dressed as Roman soldiers and a thirteenth,
which are taken to be blessed on Palm Sunday. Recently their commander, are charged with the duty of guard-
you have been able to get hold of these in Zagreb although ing a replica of Christs tomb. In some places the Roman
in the capital it is still more usual to take olive branches to outfits are replaced by sailors costumes or folk costume.
be blessed. That tradition is also a more recent one since in
the Zagreb region olive doesnt thrive. For that reason in The re-enactment begins the day before Easter Friday.
the capital the traditional branches which were taken to be In groups of four, the men take it in turns to guard the
blessed were Cornelian cherry or willow. In the capital, more tomb until midnight on Easter Saturday, when the Holy
so than elsewhere, some old traditions died out earlier. Vigil is held. In the Bible story, the Roman guards sent
to prevent Jesuss body being removed from its tomb
DIYP: Which part of the Easter tradition is your and the women who had come to anoint his body were
personal favourite and is included in your Easter terrified when a strong earthquake struck and an angel
celebrations today? appeared, after which they found the door to the tomb
Dr apo: These days, more so than in the past, Easter is a open and the body no longer inside. This scene is shown
family holiday. Apart from an Easter breakfast in the fam- in the dramatisation.
ily circle, with traditional ingredients such as cooked ham,
eggs, horseradish and spring onions, and which lost its The udije is a tradition widespread in Dalmatia since
charm after the death of my parents, I still today go for the late 19th century, with every parish developing its
an outing into the countryside either on Easter Sunday or own variation. This festival started in the coastal town of
Easter Monday. In the past for the people of Zagreb a trip, Vodice in 2001 as a way of celebrating and preserving
on foot, to Remete, which was then on the perimeters of the those traditions. udije groups from all over Dalmatia
city but today is a city neighbourhood, was an unmissable gather in a different parish every year, but every sixth
part of celebrating Easter. year they return to Vodice where the festival began. This
year the udije Festival will be held in Komin, 10km from
DUBRAVKA KURLA owner of Konoba Jezuite
Ploe in Dubrovnik-Neretva County on Easter Mon-
DIYP: Which part of Easter do you like best? day, April 17th.
Dubravka: I most enjoy preparing for the celebrations.
Decorating eggs is still the best in our house because my
children love it and I do too as it reminds me of the time
when they were small.
www.inyourpocket.com

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Spring 2017 13


Easter
small family, paining eggs with my brother and father was
really fun. Here in Croatia I go over to my aunts house for
lunch. She introduced me to the religious side of the holi-
day, but shes also an amazing cook, so lunch is still my fa-
vourite part.
DIYP: Whats your favourite food from the Easter
menu? Desserts/cakes?
Nikola: My favourite Easter food is francuska salata (po-
tato salad). I dont really eat sweets, so not sure about des-
serts or cakes.
DIYP: How will your Easter day look like this year?
Nikola: My Easter this year will be a little different from
past years. My parents recently moved to Croatia so not sure
exactly what will happen. We will probably go for a walk
or something. I really hope we all fit at my aunts place for
lunch because I like spending time with her. Oh, and she
makes really good potato salad.

EASTER EVENTS
Easter events in and around Dubrovnik in which
visitors can take part and feel how locals celebrate this
Holy Week Traditions in Korula; Photo by Neven Fazini holiday

DIYP: Do you colour eggs, and if so how? Easter workshops at Dea:


Dubravka: We used to colour eggs using onions and vin- 04.04 & 06.04 PLAITING PALM FRONDS
egar with parsley or celery leaves or wax resist to decorate; AND OLIVE BRANCHESQL-2, Frana Supila
today there are so many colours and decorations that we 8, Dea.
pick something new every year and colour about 30 eggs.
11.04 - 12.04 TRADITIONAL EASTER
DIYP: What is your favourite Easter dessert? EGG COLOURING
Dubravka: My favourite Easter cake is of course pinca in Using wax resist and decorating using decoupage.
all its possible variants and sometimes we have Panettone. QDea.
Sometimes I make a homemade pinca.
09.04 - 17.04 HOLY WEEK TRADITIONS
NIKOLA BADOVINAC writer and translator Processions along the streets of Korula town every
DIYP: After being in Croatia for 5 years now, what day during Holy Week.QKorula.
do you see as the biggest difference in celebrating
Easter back in Canada and Croatia? 17.04 EASTER BREAKFAST
Nikola: Religious holidays, besides maybe Christmas, arent On Easter Monday enjoy a presentation by local res-
celebrated as such in Canada. Im not saying it doesnt hap- taurant owners and winemakers along with Dalmatian
pen, but on the whole, religious holidays are only observed acapella singing. QOrebi.
in individual ethnic communities. Easter in Canada is about
chocolate, not much else.
In our house we painted eggs and had Easter egg hunts
when we were young. Those were some fun memories.
Here in Croatia the biggest difference is the strong connec-
tion with religion. People actually know and respect the
religious significance of Easter and the story behind what
happened to Jesus. There are also chocolates but I feel
theres less of a commercial element to the day than back
in Canada.
DIYP: What are your favourite elements in both of
them? Which things do you like the most in each?
Nikola: My favourite part of Easter in Canada and here is
having lunch with the family. Even though I have a very Dubrava National Adult Education Centre Archives

14 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com


Whats On

Lena Kramari

LENA KRAMARI The personal component here has an important role here
since this always: a little me.
Lena Kramari is an artist and teacher of art history who
lives in Dubrovnik with her husband and two daughters. DIYP: Could you tell us a little about the colours
She grew up in Zagreb where she gained a PhD from the and techniques of your work which make them so
Academy of Fine Arts. You can see Lenas work in many gal- sensitive and alive, so real?
leries in Dubrovnik and elsewhere. If you are interested in Lena: I think while I paint. The preparation for the work
her work you are welcome to contact her at lenakramaric@ is sketches which are formed round the clock in my head.
gmail.com. Once my hand gets hold of my work tools I work quickly
and spontaneously, often working on more than one pic-
DIYP: Lena, you were born and grew up in Zagreb. ture at once since I am best able to express myself in that
Has moving to Dubrovnik influenced your art, and way. I build the pictures in layers, in that way they become
in what way? similar to my thoughts, the pictures in my head which I
Lena: I think that the moment that I moved was key. At cannot describe in words. I give a part of myself in trying
that time many of the characteristics which today describe to convey the atmosphere which I feel. In my works there
me and my work were forming, although they are still are both legible places, symbols, elements from the real
changing. The effect of surprise, of boundless possibilities environment but also ones that are less easy to understand.
and constant change is what makes daily life interesting All of these create a collage of emotions, states and words.
and challenging. Collage is an artistic technique which is part of my work,
as is drawing which is the starting and finishing point of
DIYP: Tell us something about the motif of female everything.
characters on all of your pictures. Is that from your
daily life and what surrounds you or do they help DIYP: You have held many exhibitions in Du-
you to express your inner world? brovnik. Do you have a favourite space which
Lena: All of the above Female characters have been pre- your art works best in?
sent from the very beginning and convey the whole picture Lena: Ideas and possibilities for exhibitions occur to me to-
at first glance. On closer inspection, they are only a work- gether with the creation of my works. The whole process is
ing material, creating the atmosphere, carrying information somehow natural and spontaneous, so that a part of a pe-
and stimuli from the outside world onto the canvas. They riod of my life is reciprocated with a cycle of pictures from
are the projection of my desires, fears and trials. I see them that time which always fits into the exhibition space in a
as characters without age or gender. Little girls, women new way. All the spaces I have exhibited in have a special
and elderly ladies are present in one and the same char- story and meaning for me; but each of them would have a
acter as if they reject or celebrate time and the circle of life. new and different meaning today.

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Spring 2017 15


Whats On
Lena: We enjoy our everyday lives in the heart of the Old
City. We like to spend days off in nature: in the summer
swimming or on the islands, and for the rest of the year
walking or taking trips outside of the city in all directions.

DIYP: What would you say a tourist in the city


must try or take home as a souvenir?
Lena: Oh, where should I start? The first thing that occurs
to me are the various delicacies which are unique to this
region, for example home-made rakijas and wine. Many
people and families have started to make authentic local
souvenirs, and at last lovely shops are opening up which
can compete with the ones selling tourist tat. Sometimes a
seemingly meaningless object can tell a very personal story
and become an invaluable souvenir from your travels.

DIYP: Is it possible to buy your work somewhere in


Dubrovnik? If so, where and how?
Lena: I would mention first and foremost the Sveti Luka
gallery and its manager Boris Kurili, who has been sup-
porting me and my work from my very first day in Du-
brovnik. You can also buy my works in other galleries (for
example Klarisa, Talir, Luna+sol/Heritage Gallery). You can
also view my paintings in the Prijeko Palace; I used to have
an atelier there before the palace was renovated.

Anyone who is interested can call me personally; that al-


ways makes me happy. Its personal confirmation of the
value of my work, and its always a particular pleasure to
Lena Kramari
get to know someone who likes and supports my work.
In those conversations which I find invaluably stimulating
I hear new, individual interpretations of my pictures, and
through my story which is created as people seek interpre-
tation of some of my work I often discover something new
about myself and my environment without which my work
would not be possible.

Lena Kramari

Lena Kramari

DIYP: Is there a place in Dubrovnik which particu-


larly inspires you, where you like to go to gather
and renew your energy?
Lena: The whole of Dubrovnik is inspiring. I especially love
the Old City where I am currently working and living with
my family. If I need to gather more energy still there are
many places in Dubrovnik and its surroundings, but my fa-
vourite, and the closest, is the island of Lokrum because of
all the greenery.

DIYP: You have two little girls. Where in Dubrovnik www.lenakramaric.com, www.lenakramaric.tumblr.com,
do you most like to spend time with them? www.smallena.tumblr.com

16 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com


Whats On
Dubrovnik FestiWine Archives

CLASSICAL CONCERTS 09.03 - 09.04 DUBROVNIK ART MOMENT 3


Dubrovnik Art Gallery presents an intersection of contem-
01.04 - 01.11 SORKOEVI QUARTET - porary fine arts in painting, sculpture and print of various
CANDLELIGHT CONCERTS artists whose lives and work has been connected to Du-
What could be a more pleasurable treat than a candle-lit brovnik.QL5, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Put Frana Supila
classical concert in the atmospheric surroundings of the St 23, tel. (+385-20) 42 65 90, www.ugdubrovnik.hr/. Open
Saviors Church right on the Stradun?QB2, Church of St 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.
Saviour, Placa bb. 21:00 Every Monday.
01.04 - 30.10 THE END OF YUGOSLAVIA
08.04 - 13.06 DUBROVNIK SYMPHONIC T he expression every picture tells a story has its merit.
ORCHESTRA This permanent collection of images presents some of the
Dubrovniks affiliation with music dates back to the 16th worlds leading photojournalists that covered the breakup
century. In saying that, the citys iconic symphonic orches- of the former Yugoslavia - from Croatia, through to Bosnia
tra was established in 1924 and today continues that hon- and Kosovo. Photographs by Ron Haviv, Alexandra Boulat,
ourable tradition with an amazing programme consisting Darko Bandi, Jan Grarup, Claus Bjorn Larsen, Yannis Beh-
of concerts with world renowed classical music artists rakis, Chris Morris, Emmanuel Ortiz, Peter Northall, Tarik
who join them on stage at breath-taking venues. Keep an Samarah, Wade Goddard, Ziyah Gafic and Jon Jones are
eye out on dates as there are some exceptions.QD2, The included. Multimedia video included.QC2, War Photo
Franciscan Monastery of the Friars Minor and the Old Limited, Antuninska 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 21 66. Open
Pharmacy, Placa 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 10, www.dso.hr. 10:00 - 22:00.

EXHIBITIONS 01.04 - 15.07 ALESSIO ROMENZI - PROTEC-


TIVE EDGE: GAZA 2014
27.01 - 01.06 LEPIDOPTERA Renowned Italian photographer comes for a display of his
Dubrovniks Natural History Museum got a much needed stunningly tragic work from the 2014 Israel-Gaza conflict.
boost earlier this year with a rich butterfly exhibition as QC2, War Photo Limited, Antuninska 6, tel. (+385-20)
part of the international The Night of Museums.Visitors are 32 21 66. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
encouraged to visit the museum and see the hundreds of
samples of butterflies from the whole Dubrovnik-Neretva
county.QC4, Dubrovnik Natural History Museum,
Androvieva 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 88. youtube.com/inyourpocket

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Spring 2017 17


Whats On
FOOD & DRINK
17.04 - 23.04 DUBROVNIK FESTIWINE
Martin Luther once said, Beer is made by men, wine by
God. The message here is clear and the message in Du-
brovnik is truly clear. In order to get that fulfilling local
experience, tourists must try at least some local wine.
14th century anecdotes vindicate the making of wine here
and this event brings wine from the cellar to the table.
Its an all-round experience with over 100 regional wine-
makers presenting their vino to experts; workshops are
about wine in tourism with topics from cork and pack-
aging to making it on the market. Art exhibits, excursions
to vineyards, local restaurants offering local wines with
Lepidoptera Exhibition; Dubrovnik Natural History Museum Archives matching dishes. What can you say, a divine wine expe-
rience waits!QL2, The Lazaret, Frana Supila bb, www.
dubrovnikfestiwine.com.
FESTIVALS
15.06 - 18.06 LE PETIT FESTIVAL DU THE-
ATRE SPECIAL/MISCELLANEOUS
Beauty motivates, nature heals, love saves! The splen- 01.04 - 10.04 DAYS OF CHRISTIAN
dour of this small festival lies in the exquisiteness of very CULTURE
unique art forms which are nurtured at this cultural event; As Easter is approaching, this event brings to light Christi-
whether through poetry, acting or dancing, Le Petit Fes- anity and its impact on European and Croatian culture. The
tival du Theatre will never leave you uninspired nor does event encompasses various exhibits, concerts, discussion
it disappoint.QL2, The Lazaret, Frana Supila bb, www. boards, theatre shows and projections with a major link to
lepetitfestival.com. the great artworks inspired by our Christian cultural heri-
tage.Qwww.danikrscanskekulture.info.

05.04 - 15.05 SPRING


IN KONAVLE
Spring in Konavle is a series of active and recreational
activities designed to promote the Konavle region as the
ideal destination for rural tourism. Events range from races
through nature and educational wine tours to traditional
folklore festivals and art workshops. Its also a wonderful
opportunity for the whole family to try foods unique to
the region.Qvisit.cavtat-konavle.com.

28.04 - 30.04 AKLAPELA


Picture a group of men, lined-up, dressed to a tea, singing
without instruments but ranging their voices from bari-
Mediterannean Festival of Healthy Food 2016 by Dario Kova - Festivus tone to bass, and all in harmony that even the angels from
above would applaud. This is klapa music, authentic a ca-
pella music from Croatia. This annual three day fest draws
THE LINO FOLK ENSEMBLE the finest male/female klape performers which you sim-
02.05 - 31.10 ply need to hear, to believe!QD2, Dominican Church, Sv.
The Lino folk ensemble, one of Croatias finest cultural Dominika 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 22 00, www.aklapela.hr.
exports, is ready to dance its socks off for you every
Tuesday and Friday during the tourist season, when 11.05 - 14.05 FOLKLORE FESTIVAL MOON-
high-spirited energetic performances with amazing LIGHT ON THE NERETVA
costumes and haunting songs will echo through Laza- This traditional folklore festival takes place at the Neretva
reti. The Dubrovnik Summer Festival (July 10 - August River delta in the town of Metkovi. The four-day event
25) is an exception, when their performances are as brings together performers of traditional song and dance
per the festivals schedule. To reserve your ticket call from across Dalmatia, other areas of Croatia and even
(+385-20) 32 40 23, (+385-) 099 833 06 79.QL2, The around Europe.Visitors get the chance to see performanc-
Lazaret, Frana Supila bb, www.lindjo.hr/. 21:30 Every es featuring traditional costumes that breathe new life into
Tuesday & Friday. the areas rich cultural heritage.Qwww.tzmetkovic.hr.

18 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com


Whats On
01.06 - 15.06 MOREKA SWORD DANCE
A touch of chivalry returns annually to the island of Korula
with its most famous attraction, the traditional 16th cen-
tury sword battle dance (Moreka) which depicts the bat-
tle between the Moors and Christians. The Moreka was
common across Mediterranean countries long ago and
Korula still proudly holds on to this 400 year old dance
that is both mesmerising and seeks the skilful handling of
swords.QKorula, www.visitkorcula.en. Every Thursday.
16.06 - 05.10 SWORD DANCE FESTIVAL
This event presents and preserves a rich heritage of sword
dancing on the island of Korula. Set in original ambience,
several of Korulas sword dance societies (moreka, kum-
panija and motra) perform their type of chain dance
with swards dating back as early as the 12th century. Come
and see this amazing battle dance that carries the univer-
DuMotion Archives
sal message of good overcoming bad. This years opening
will host guests from England, Sallyport Sword Dancers.Q
Korula, www.visitkorcula.en. FILM
24.04 - 30.04 QUIET PLEASE EVENT - FILM
SPORT & THE CITY SINCE 1919
29.04 - 30.04 DU MOTION Tiina, Molim is a celebration of the century-long con-
Four fantastic running events to be held over two days. nection between Dubrovnik and film industries from
Turn sporty and choose from the Half marathon, a 21 around the world. Dubrovnik continues to serve as both
km long race which starts and ends on Stradun. Run the the star and backdrop for countless films and theatrical
wall is a 2km race which follows the entire lenght of the performances. The aim of this festival is to shine a light on
ancient walls.The 5 km fun run also starts and ends at the human element of this unique relationship. Organizers
Stradun and goes through to the Gru harbour. Finally, we have many surprises in store for the whole family.Qwww.
cant forget our juniors with their Kids Day run from the facebook.com/Tisina.Molim.Dubrovnik/.
Onofrio Fountain to Lua. All in all, a great atmosphere is
truly felt around the place with this perfect combination
of sports, culture and beauty. Log onto www.du-motion. REVELIN FORTRESS
com to reserve your entry!QB/C2, Stradun, Placa, www.
du-motion.com. Not only is the Revelin Fortress a landmark of
Dubrovnik, it is now home to some intriguing
29.04 TRIATHLON THE MARCO POLO exhibitions. The ground floor caters to two ar-
CHALLENGE 2016 chaeological exhibits whilst the first floor is a
Swimming, cycling and running are part of any triathlon, high-tech centrepiece with a virtual museum.
but when it happens to be on the island of Korula with its The exhibit Early Medieval Sculpture of Dubrovnik
pine forests, pristine beaches and natural flora and fauna, and Environs is linked to the material stone, for stone
it gives the word triathlon a whole new meaning. All are is what gives this Medieval City its charm. Even furni-
welcomed from professionals to amateurs, pre and post ture in churches was made from stone and this exhibit
events leading to the day will be held as well as the hu- presents stone altars, fences, pulpits, windows and im-
manitarian aspect as well. Fitness, mingling and jingling, posts in a pre-Romanic and early Romanic style. These
it will make Marco Polo himself quite proud!QKorula, artefacts have been gathered from the Benedictine or-
www.tksplit.hr/2016/korcula/00_korc_onatjecanju. der in Dubrovnik and its surroundings; they date from
php. the 8th and 12th century. The second exhibit Archaeo-
logical research, Spatial Development and Found-
INTO THE BLUE ry presents how the very building you are standing in,
(U PLAVETNILO) was built. Visuals depict its 15th and 16th century con-
struction as well as findings such as ovens for casting
A short film Into the Blue , made by Antoneta cannons and bells, and the houses of different stone
Kusijanovi, a young and ambitious filmmaker from masons and foundry men. Any public-construction in
Dubrovnik was premiered earlier this year at the 67th the city at the time was put on halt to accelerate the
Berlinare Film Festival. The story follows a young girl building of the fortress due to potential Venetian dan-
who seeks solace on the small island she grew up on, gerQE-1, dumus.hr/en/. Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed
only to find things arent the way they used to be. Wed. Unified ticket.

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Spring 2017 19


Restaurants
such as Dalmatia Style Steak or Lamb Fillet. As an addition-
al bonus, if youre a Game of Thrones fan, this restaurant
overlooks one of the scenes from the show.QA2, Brsalje
1, tel. (+385-20) 42 63 19, www.nautikarestaurants.com.
Open 08:00 - 24:00. (50 - 160kn). PAUGBW

KAVANA TEATAR
Located in Lapad, off of the typical tourist track, this simple
and laid-back restaurant serves all your basic meals. Not
only a restaurant but a cafe as well, stop by for a drink or
grab a bite to eat. They offer something for everyone from
pizza and evapii to carbonara spaghetti and omeletts.
This simple, but delicious food will hit the spot and best
of all, for a reasonable price.QH2, Iva Vojnovia 72, tel.
(+385-20) 43 62 20. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 -
01:00. (35 - 90kn). PTA6GBXSW

KOMIN
The fireplace, adorned with ironwork and ancient
weaponry, has as its centrepiece a real hearth where
your meal is cooked before your very eyes try meat
or fish ispod peke. A good choice in the Babin kuk area.
QG2, Iva Dulia 136, tel. (+385-20) 43 56 36, www.
restaurant-komin.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (80 - 130kn).
PTA6LGBXW

KOPUN
Situated at the top of a long flight of steps, next to the
Barba Restaurant Archives Jesuit Church, this restaurant features food from all across
Croatia, and when we say all over, we mean all over; every
CROATIAN notable region is represented on the menu. As their name
suggests their specialty is the kopun, or capon to you and
BISTRO GLORIJET me, and they also have local beer on tap. Service is deliv-
Close to the city market in Gru harbour youll find this ered with smiles in abundance, and this is a great spot for a
lovely old summer residence which has been turned into a romantic meal, far from any loud pubs or cafes.QC4, Pol
bistro where you can enjoy good cooking at sensible pric- jana Ruera Bokovia 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 39 69/(+385-)
es. Glorijet has earned a reputation among the locals as 099 212 98 80, 098 42 73 82, www.restaurantkopun.
a good lunch spot.QH2, Obala Stjepana Radia 16, tel. com. Open 11:00 - 22:30. June Open 11:00 - 24:00. (80 -
(+385-20) 41 97 88/(+385-) 098 28 51 80. Open 10:00 - 250kn). PTJAGBXW
24:00. Closed Sun. (60 - 170kn). PTA6UGW
MIMOZA
BISTRO TAVULIN In a courtyard across from the Hilton Imperial Hotel, 100
Located behind St. Blaise Church, this restaurant offers a meters from the Pile Gate, Mimoza is big enough to handle
shady spot to rest during a hot summer day. They offer your tour group and several others simultaneously, seem-
some special dishes not found in other restaurants, such ingly without a blink. Theres a dining room, but the ter-
as Creamy Barley with Adriatic Shrimp, Octopus Ragout race, shaded partly with a grape arbour, is a pleasant place
and Beef Cheeks. For dessert, St. Blaise Soil is a must-try. As to dine on meats and fish, pizzas and pasta and vegetarian
an additional plus, they offer free wi-fi so you can catch up dishes. Delivery is available.QJ3, Branitelja Dubrovnika
with your family and friends as you enjoy a delicious meal 9, tel. (+385-20) 41 11 57, www.restaurant-mimoza-
in this ancient setting.QC3, Cvijete Zuzori 1, tel. (+385- dubrovnik.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (80 - 120kn).
20) 32 39 77, www.tavulin.com. Open 09:00 - 23:00. PTAEGBXW
(100 - 170kn). PJGBXW
ORHAN
DUBRAVKA 1836 RESTAURANT & CAF Definitely check out the tiny harbour at Pile its like
Located on Pile, this restaurant overlooks Lovrijenac For- something out of a pirate movie set in an intimate huddle
tress and the Old City Walls. They offer delicious Mediterra- of houses beneath sheer cliffs. Orhans terrace is, therefore,
nean dishes in a romantic and peaceful setting. Their vast a great spot. Decent quality, classic Croatian cooking at
menu includes enough choices to suit everyones taste, reasonable prices.QK3, Od Tabakarije 1, tel. (+385-20)
such as a variety of pizzas, risottos and pastas, fish dishes, 41 41 83, www.restaurant-orhan.com. Open 11:00 -
such as Grilled Squid or Salmon Fillet and meat dishes, 23:30. (80 - 200kn). PTJA6GBXW

20 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com


Restaurants

ZOE INCREDIBLE INDIA


Located on the rocky south-western tip of the Babin kuk Authentic Indian cuisine has finally made its way to Du-
peninsula (and a pleasant 15-minute walk from Lapad bay brovnik! Located on a narrow side street off of Stradun,
along the coastal path), Zoe is an excellent place at which this restaurant offers a cozy atmosphere between the cool
to sample choice local food on a lovely sea-facing terrace. stone walls. The orange coloured walls, decorated with
As well as grilled fish pure-and-simple theres a healthy pictures of India, create a traditional Indian feel. They offer
sprinkling of traditional country recipes, such as roast duck dishes from all over the Indian subcontinent and use only
breast, or stewed frogfish with sage. Starters like breaded the freshest ingredients. Enjoy some chicken tandoori and
frogs legs or risotto with boletus mushrooms will prob- prawn masala with a side of saffron rice or garlic naan. To
ably suffice as a lunchtime main course. Prices are per drink, try some traditional Indian masala tea or sweet lassi.
evening menu.QF2, Kardinala Stepinca 31, tel. (+385- Reservations are recommended ahead of time as seats
20) 44 01 00, www.importanneresort.com. Open 12:00 fill up quickly.QC2, Vetranieva 6, tel. (+385-20) 31 27
- 23:00. (160 - 220kn). PALGBW 43, www.incredibleindiadubrovnik.com. Open 11:00 -
23:00. (75 - 150kn). PTJABSW

TAJ MAHAL
ETHNIC First things first, the food isnt Indian but Bosnian though
CANTINA MEXICANA CHIHUAHUA the immaculate dcor has an Eastern influence. Back to
This rather pleasant Mexican serves up all the usuals: siz- whats important, the cuisine. Expect a cross-cultural fu-
zling fajitas, burritos, tacos and chimichangas, plus ribs, sion of East meets West with fresh ingredients priority
wings and steaks. Open all year round it provides an ideal one. Homemade flatbread is a must; top sellers include
alternative for anyone looking for a satisfying meal, be evapii, meat platters, lamb stew, shish-kebabs, soups,
they a local looking to shy away from the traditional Med- house wine and more. Their authentic Turkish coffee is
iteranean fare, or a tourist simply craving something a bit the best way to winddown.QC3, Nikole Guetia 2,
different.QG2, etalite kralja Zvonimira 2b, tel. (+385- tel. (+385-20) 32 32 21/(+385-) 098 983 26 20, www.
20) 42 44 45/(+385-) 098 58 28 46. Open 12:00 - 24:00. tajmahal-dubrovnik.com. Open 09:00 - 01:00. (90 -
(55 - 130kn). PVNBSW 200kn). TA6GBSW

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Spring 2017 21


Restaurants
TAKENOKO QF2, Kardinala Stepinca 31, tel. (+385-20) 44 01 00,
Takenoko is Croatias oldest and most well-known Japa- www.importanneresort.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (170
nese fusion restaurant. Located just outside Dubrovniks - 260kn). PAGBW
stunning Pile Gate, the food aims to give the view a run for
its money. The luxury menu and extensive wine list are not LUCIN KANTUN
for those on a shoestringbut the sushi and the ambi- One can expect the best of Mediterranean dishes and they
ance are beyond reproach.QE1, Hvarska 2, tel. (+385 - also do tapas. Their open kitchen style of cooking is almost
20) 69 46 09, www.takenoko.hr/en/. Open 18:00 - 23:30. like sitting back and watching a scene from the MasterChef
(87 - 185kn). series. Presentation is personified; service is impeccable,
interior is charming! With little to fault, this hidden trea-
sure is located in a back alley just off Stradun and is the
perfect escape.QB2, Od Sigurate bb, tel. (+385-20) 32
10 03. Open 11:00 - 23:00. From May Open 11:00 - 01:00.
(38 - 160kn). PTJA6UGBXW

MAGELLAN
The first beautiful thing about this restaurant is the nat-
ural light that floods through huge windows on all four
sides. The second is the magenta-coloured wall covered
in modern paintings by artists from Dubrovnik. Third,
and most important, is the food. Bread and pasta are
home-made; everything is fresh and perfectly prepared,
and the service is first-class.QI3, Iva Vojnovia 7a, tel.
(+385-20) 33 35 94. Open 08:00 -00:00. (100 - 300kn).
PAULEGBXSW

MEX CANTINA BONA FIDE


Dont let the name fool you, they dont just offer Mexi-
can dishes, but Italian, as well. The outdoor terrace is
snuggled into a narrow side street, with colourful pastel
tables creating a vibrant contrast to the grey stone walls.
They offer tacos, enchiladas, fajitas and nachos, as well as
a wide variety of pizzas and pastas. When you cant decide
between Mexican and Italian, its the perfect spot to suit
Leut - Cavtat Restaurant Archives either mood.QB2/3, ubranovieva 8, tel. (+385-) 095
885 27 92. Open 10:00 - 23:00. From May 08:00 - 01:00.
. PTJA6UGBSW
INTERNATIONAL
AZUR PANTARUL
Looking for something a little different from the traditional A popular spot for the locals to frequent, you must try this
mediterranean dishes found everywhere? Then Azur is delectable restaurant during your visit. They offer deli-
your answer! The outdoor seating is playfully decorated cious appetizers like spring rolls, quiches or steak tartare.
with bright and vibrant colours and goes along with the As well, delightful risottos and homemade pasta dishes
food, which is just as colourful as the atmosphere. Featur- are just a few of the choices for a main course. As an ad-
ing a unique blend of asian and mediterranean dishes, a ditional bonus, theyre always adding new and fun meals
mix of curry and chili with basil and rosemary spices, its to the menu. Tastefully decorated, the friendly staff and
known as mediterranean cuisine with an asian twist and warm environment will leave you with a satisfied experi-
will add a delectable bang to your trip!QD4, Pobijana ence. The tables fill up quickly, so make sure you reserve a
10, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 06, www.azurvision.com. Open spot ahead of time.QH2, Kralja Tomislava 1, tel. (+385-
12:30 - 23:00. (28 - 150kn). PTJA6GBXW 20) 33 34 86, www.pantarul.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00.
Closed Mon. From May Open 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 -
LA CASTILE 24:00. Closed Mon. (60 - 140kn). PTALGSW
This restaurant is part of the Royal Princess Hotel and
offers a variety of top-quality local seafood and meat PORAT RESTAURANT & BAR
dishes. Each classy and sophisticated dish is made us- Located in the Gru Harbour, this classy and modern
ing the freshest ingredients and can be savoured with restaurant has a variety of delicious dishes to choose
a local or foreign wine. Enjoy this delicious meal while from on their menu. They offer various soups and salads,
overlooking the amazing Adriatic Sea. At this restaurant, gourmet burgers, grilled steaks, as well as fresh Catch of
youre in for a real treat! Prices are per evening menu. the Day fish, all artfully presented. Its the perfect spot
22 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants

Kopun Restaurant Archives

for an evening out with your friends and family.QH1, meet specialty cuts of beef from around the world. The
Obala Stjepana Radia 30, tel. (+385-20) 33 35 52, www. selection of local wines is extensiveas it should be. Cool
porat-dubrovnik.com. Open 07:30 24:00. (25 - 500kn). off with a refreshing Mint Julep or Gin Rickey.QB3, Od
PTA6UGBXSW Domina 1, tel. (+385 - 20) 32 16 37. Open 11:00 - 24:00.
(100 - 400kn). BW
RESTAURANT 360
If this review were to merely say WOW! then it would be
doing this restaurant a great injustice. 360 is designed for KONOBA
couples, not for larger groups, so it maintains a wonderful KONOBA DALMATINO
air of serenity even when full. From the main room which Tucked inside the narrow side streets of the Old City, Ko-
is set deep into the City walls, to the outdoor terraces noba Dalmatino has added a unique twist to traditional
which look out over the harbour. Their wine cellar alone Dalmatian cuisine. Try some Mussels in a Cream Wine
is worth in excess of 1 million Euros, and that alone should Sauce, John Dory Fillet or Seared Tuna Steak with pan
be all you need to know about 360.QE2, Sv.Dominika fried vegetables from the appetizing menu, in this warm
bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 22 22, www.360dubrovnik. environment of orange and brown hues, resembling rus-
com. Open 18:30 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (190 - 350kn). tic Tuscany. Old photos of Dubrovnik line the walls, along
PTJA6GBXW with wine bottles that are displayed around the restau-
rant, for decoration. To satisfy your palate, there is an ex-
TAVERNA OTTO tensive list of wines to choose from to sip along with your
This charming little taverna has an atmosphere remi- meal. For dessert, dont miss out on trying the Chocolate
niscent of a French bistro. Its attracting more and more Fondant, for a small taste of heaven.QC3, Miha Pracata
admirers thanks to its attractive dcor, great terrace and 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 70/(+385-) 098 32 74 04, www.
excellent food. We especially recommend the spicy pork dalmatino-dubrovnik.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (80 -
ribs, grilled tuna steak and chocolate fondant. But what- 180kn). PTJA6GBXW
ever you choose, you cant go wrong.QI2, Nikole Tesle
8, tel. (+385-20) 35 86 33, www.tavernaotto.com. Open KONOBA JEZUITE
12:00 - 16:00, 19:00 - 23:00. Closed Tue. From May Open Tucked away from the big crowds where serenity reigns
12:00 - 16:00, 19:00 - 23:00, Tue 19:00 - 23:00. (80 - and positioned in front of the Saint Ignatius Church.
200kn). PTA6GBXW Choose from a balanced choice of fish and meat dishes
or platters with excellent wines to dabble. It is typical
THE GATSBY WINE & FOOD BAR Dalmatia and we recommend the mussels.QC4, Poljana
Located in a quaint street in the old town, The Gatsby Wine Ruera Bokovia 5, tel. (+385-) 098 74 00 73, www.
& Food Bar caters to a modern clientele with a nod to the restaurantjezuitedubrovnik.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00.
roaring 20s. Locally sourced ingredients and Adriatic fish (60 - 150kn). JABW

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Spring 2017 23


Restaurants
PUPO row street between the cool stone walls. Its the perfect
Compact and bijou, this small tavern offers a variety of spot for a quick meal while youre seeing the sites or after a
well-prepared seafood dishes and steaks as well as a walk night out on the town when you get the munchies.QC2,
on a wok side as a good choice for a light lunch. Outdoor Vetranieva 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 63, www.fastfood-
seating immersed in the Old city, local ingredients, wines dubrovnik.com/. Open 10:00 - 02:00. (20 - 75kn).
and tempting homemade cakes make this value for mon- PTJAUGBXSW
ey - worth visiting.QC2, Miha Pracata 8, tel. (+385-20)
32 35 55/(+385-) 099 216 54 54, www.pupodubrovnik. MR. FRESH
com. Open 10:00 - 22:00. From May Open 08:00 - 24:00. Looking for a spot to enjoy a healthy, yet tasty treat in the
(65 - 190kn). TJAUGBKXSW heart of Dubrovnik? Look no further. At Mr. Fresh you can
get a savoury smoothie to raise your energy levels as you
ROZARIO explore this beautiful city. To satisfy your hunger they offer
On the extreme east of the Prijeko strip, this little restau- salads, tortillas and sandwiches. As well, to cool off, they
rant stands out from its neighbours for its family-run at- offer four flavours of ice cream, which include wild berries,
mosphere and homestyle cooking thats why youll often jaffa, stracciatella and chocolate. As a special treat, they
find the locals lunching here.QD2, Prijeko 1, tel. (+385- also serve cocktails-on-the-go, such as a Mojito, Malibu
20) 32 20 15/(+385-) 098 89 38 54, 099 315 65 50, www. Breeze or Gin-Gin.QB3, Od Pua 14, tel. (+385-) 095
konoba-rozario.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00. From May Open 936 30 07. Open 09:00 - 21:00. From June Open 09:00 -
09:00 - 23:00. (70 - 168kn). PTJAGBXS 24:00. (20 - 45kn). TJABS

LIGHT BITES MEDITERRANEAN


BUFFET KOLA ABOVE 5 RESTAURANT
A tiny spot just off Stradun where you can nibble some Elegant restaurant with a spectacular 360 degree view
tasty local specialities such as prut, marinated cheese and overlooking the ancient red roofs and stone streets of the
sardines at fast food prices. Sandwiches are freshly made Old City. Along with a captivating view, they offer deli-
with home baked bread.QC2, Antuninska 1, tel. (+385- cious Mediterranean dishes made with a unique twist.
20) 32 10 96/(+385-) 098 909 40 18. Open 09:00 - 22:00. Their wine list consists mainly of great local Croatian wines
(14 - 30kn). PJNGBW and they are constantly rotating their selections. They
also offer breakfast, such as house smoked salmon and
BURGER TIGER avocado, eggs Benedict or Royale, served on beautiful
This American-style fast food joint is a unique addition homemade brioche. Reservations are preferred to ensure
to the Old Town Dubrovnik. They offer a variety of tasty a seat, as they fill up quickly and space is limited.QB2, Od
hamburgers, hot dogs, tortillas and chicken wings, as Sigurate 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 22 44, www.hotelstarigrad.
well as yummy fries and onion rings. Sit back and relax in com/restaurant-2/. Open 07:00 - 23:00. (200 - 250kn).
one of their bright red booths or take a seat in the nar- TJABXW

Fish Restaurant Proto Archives

24 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com


Restaurants

AMFORA terrace, which is excellently sheltered so that bad weather


While this restaurant appears at first to be quite modern need not force you indoors. The menu has a strong selec-
the alcoves and walls are very much adorned with items of tion of Croatian wines and their food would suit a vegan
a distinct Mediterranean feel very Roman indeed. Prices as well as any carnivore. Some of the dishes vary from that
here are definitely cheaper than other similar eateries, ei- which you might see elsewhere and seem a delight for
ther New or Old City, but the quality remains just as high. anyone looking for something a little bit different.QE1,
You will be well fed here, have no doubt. If youre based Hvarska bb, tel. (+385-20) 42 00 13, www.gustame-
in or near the Old City then you should not think twice dubrovnik.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (50 - 200kn).
about jumping on the bus and crossing the city just to eat PTA6UGBXSW
here.QH1, Obala Stjepana Radia 26, tel. (+385-20) 41
94 19, www.amforadubrovnik.com. Open 11:30 - 23:00. KLARISA
Closed Sun. From June - August Open 11:00 - 16:00, Since theyve been operating in Dubrovnik for only a few
18:00 - 23:00. (115 - 250 kn). PAGBXW years, you can be forgiven for thinking that this restaurant
has always been here. All their food, as you would expect,
CULTO is sourced locally, and during the summer months youll
Looking for something out of the Old Town, head towards be pleased to note that much of the fish is off-menu,
the port for a menu to suit everyones needy taste buds. because they never know what the catch of the day will
Culto offers scrumptious risotto, pizza, salads, pasta, fish, be thats how fresh their fish is. Their brand new Renais-
sandwiches, and burgers. Their soups change almost daily sance kitchen offers delicious meals, such as homemade
and are a great appetiser. The outdoor terrace is dandy for fish soup, porki makaruli (Dirty Macaroni a traditional
some outdoor fresh air under cover.QI2, Vukovarska 17, pasta dish from Dubrovnik) and tasty stewed octopus,
tel. (+385-) 099 321 61 41. Open 07:00 - 23:00. Closed as well as delicious Carob Cake or a homemade cake
Sun. (70 - 130kn). PTALBW with cheese and dried figs, for dessert. Theres a tavern
attached, so if youre waiting for a table you can always
GUSTA ME grab yourself a cool, tall, glass of pivo.QB2, Poljana
This small restaurant sits just above the Ploe Gate and has Paska Milievia 4, tel. (+385-20) 41 31 00, www.klarisa-
a pleasant, if somewhat muted, view of the City walls at dubrovnik.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (30 - 220kn).
night. Like most restaurants here it has a sizeable outdoor PTJA6UIEGBXW

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Spring 2017 25


Restaurants
MEZZANAVE RESTAURANT & BAR NAUTIKA
If youre looking for a restaurant to eat at while youre out- The place to splash out in style a wonderful terrace
side of the old city walls, Mezzanave is the perfect place overlooking the bay by the Pile gate, and a rather grand
to check out. Their shopping mall atmosphere brings a interior - your smelly trainers may raise an eyebrow or two.
bit of America to this ancient European city. They offer Imaginative cuisine inspired by your maritime surround-
tasty meals at a much lower price than in the Old City. ings. Expensive, but definitely in a class of its own in Du-
Their menu includes something to suit everyones taste, brovnik dining.QA2, Brsalje 3, tel. (+385-20) 44 25 26,
from salads and pizza to pasta and grilled steaks. Find www.nautikarestaurants.com. Open 18:00 - 24:00. (257
menu on their Facebook page: Mezzanave.QI2, Dr. Ante - 398kn). PJAGBXW
Starevia 24, tel. (+385-20) 61 01 19, www.mezzanave.
com. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. (42 - 142kn). PANORAMA RESTAURANT & BAR
PTA6ULVGBXSW Its hard to find a more breathtaking view of Dubrovnik
than from this restaurant. Drive up a narrow road to the
top of Mount Sr or take the cable car up and enjoy a tasty
meal or simply a drink while you look out over the birds-
eye view of Dubrovnik and Lokrum. The amazing view is
to die for! Enjoy the sunshine on your face on a bright and
sunny day or come up right before sunset for a spectacular
scene of the sun setting over this gorgeous city.QK1, Sr
Hill (upper station), tel. (+385-20) 31 26 64/(+385-) 091
486 00 47, www.nautikarestaurants.com. Open 09:00 -
20:00. May Open 09:00 - 21:00. From June Open 09:00
- 24:00. (70 - 250kn). PAGBXW

RESTAURANT HORIZONT
Dubrovnik Food Story Archives This appetizing new restaurant is located up a timeworn
stone staircase just outside of the Old Town and has an
BREAKFAST amazing view overlooking Porporela and the Old Harbour.
They offer seasonal meat and fish menus, as well as tra-
ORLANDO ditional cuisine from not only the Dalmatian region, but
A perfect spot for breakfast on a warm day: this place also Istria, such as Fresh Dalmatian Tuna Tartar and Beef
has just three tables inside but a wonderful terrace Tenderloin in a Truffle Sauce. For dessert, try a delicious
right on Stradun. Apart from home-baked rolls and slice of Chocolate Souffle or Carrot Cake and experi-
croissants, you can treat yourself to dalmatian cured ence a small taste of paradise in this romantic setting.
ham, scrambled eggs, fresh juice, tea and coffee. A bit QE1, Put od Bosanke 8, tel. (+385-), www.restaurant-
on the pricey side due to the prime location.QC,D2, horizont.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (110 - 150kn).
Placa bb, www.esculaprestaurants.com. Open 07:30 PTALGBXSW
- 01:00. (60 - 120kn). JABW
SALVATORE
PUPICA This is the perfect place to grab some of your favourite
Charming patisserie in the stunning Old city which Croatian snacks, like cheese and prosciutto-style ham or
could suit almost any European town, city, or vil- shrimp, while taking a break from exploring the city walls.
lage. Their slogan states that life without breakfast, is And not to mention the breathtaking view that will feed
like a day without morning. So before you get ready your soul.QE4, Old City Walls, tel. (+385-20) 63 69 39.
to head out on your daily adventure, omelettes, Open 08:00 - 18:30.
toasts, as well as cakes can only do you good!QC3,
Cvijete Zuzori 5, tel. (+385-) 099 216 54 54, VAPOR
www.pupodubrovnik.com. Open 07:00 - 22:00. A Michelin guide restaurant, Bellevue Hotel restaurant is
PTJA6UGBXW perfectly located near the city centre and commands an
SALVATORE amazing view of its nearby surroundings. Food includes
Call it the perfect pit stop right on the old city walls Dalmatian cuisine with an international twist, this viva-
especially in 30 plus degree heat. Their breakfast menu cious diversity together with an excellent wine list is sure
is simple and easy, ranging from omelettes to sand- to satisfy the more refined tongue.QI3, Pera ingrije 7,
wiches. But best of all, the view overlooking the sea tel. (+385-20) 33 08 88, www.adriaticluxuryhotels.com/
and smoothies and juices made fresh on site make this en/hotel-bellevue-dubrovnik/restaurants-and-bars/
time-out, a true breather!QE4, Old City Walls, tel. vapor-restaurant. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (105 - 320kn).
(+385-20) 63 69 39. Open 08:00 - 18:30. PTAULEGBXW

26 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com


Restaurants

MEET THE MEAT TABASCO


The menu catches the eye, if only for the prices. Its cer-
DOMINO STEAK HOUSE tainly cheaper than other similar establishments in the im-
A serious convention centre for carnivores of varying mediate area (Tabasco is just outside the walls, between
tastes, offering steaks, fish and seafood in a multitude the Ploe and Bua Gates). Here you can get takeaway, de-
of styles. The outside seating in a sheltered courtyard livery, or simply eat in. The restaurant has a great shaded
just south of Stradun is especially lovely in hot weather. terrace, from which one can relax, and watch the tourists
QB3, Od Domina 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 31 03, www. pass by in their hundreds. Both local and tourist opinion
dominorestaurant-dubrovnik.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00. has it that this is the best pizza in all of Dubrovnik. The
(80 - 200kn). PTJA6UGBW beer is also some of the cheapest in price.QE1, Hvarska
48a, tel. (+385-20) 42 95 95, www.pizzeriatabasco.hr/.
PAPARAZZO STEAKHOUSE Open 09:30 - 23:00. From May Open 09:30 - 24:00. (32 -
One of the newest editions to the Old City, they offer an 120kn). PTAVGBXSW
array of delicious grilled meats, such as Croatian Beef Fillet
Steak, Croatian Veal T-bone and USA Black Angus Striploin
in a charming and cozy environment. Located away from SEAFOOD
the main hustle and bustle of the town, enjoy a tasty meal BARBA
in this peaceful setting.QD4, Pobijana 2, tel. (+385-20) Interested in tasting an octopus hamburger? Now is your
48 49 78, www.paparazzo.hr/. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (100 chance! Barba offers delicious octopus hamburgers for a
- 250kn). PTJA6GBXW unique street food experience. As well, try some fried oys-
ters, tuna calzone or seafood pizza slices. A great spot for
PIZZA all seafood lovers to eat a quick bite on-the-go or to sit and
relax on a cozy bar stool indoors.QC2, Bokovieva 5, tel.
BARACUDA (+385-) 091 205 34 88. Open 10:00 - 24:00. From June 15
Claims to be the first pizzeria in town, serving hot pizza pie Open 10:00 - 02:00. (35 - 59kn). PTJAGSW
as big as your tummy surrounded by religious landmarks
in the heart of the Old Town!QB/C3, Nikole Boidarevia
10, tel. (+385-20) 32 31 60/(+385-) 091 572 62 65. Open youtube.com/inyourpocket
09:30 - 23:30. (35 - 120kn). PAGBXSW

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Spring 2017 27


Restaurants
FISH RESTAURANT PROTO
Proto has a hundred-year tradition and is the hallmark Out of town
of Dubrovniks culinary scene. Top local chefs expertly
blend old world charms with contemporary trends. The CAVTAT
menu adapts to the availability of the best local produce BUGENVILA IN CAVTAT
and freshest fish; providing guests with only the finest A romantic and picturesque restaurant located along the
Mediterranean cuisine. Proto is not just a holdover from waterfront in Cavtat, tasteful pieces of artwork decorating
a bygone era, its an integral part of Dubrovniks tourism the walls and flowers adorning each wooden table, give
renaissance.QC2, iroka 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 34, this restaurant an artsy and creative feel. Their menu is
www.esculaprestaurants.com. Open 10:00 - 23:00. (150 decided based on the fresh ingredients available, as they
- 250kn). PAGBXW use only fresh fish from the Adriatic and seasonal home-
grown vegetables from Mljet and Konavle to create their
KAMENICE spectacular dishes, so the menu is constantly changing.
Kamenice has legions of fans around the world for its huge An additional plus is the extremely friendly staff.QObala
portions of tasty seafood and cheap, cheap prices. Its a Ante Starevia 9, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 99 49, www.
simple place on the market square, near the statue of Mr bugenvila.eu/. Open 12:00 - 16:00, 18:30 - 22:00. From
Gunduli.QC3, Gundulieva poljana 8, tel. (+385-20) June 14 Open 12:00 - 16:00, 18:30 - 22:45. (70 - 280kn).
32 36 82. Open 08:00 - 22:00. May Open 08:00 - 23:00. TALB
From June Open 08:00 - 24:00. (58 - 123kn). JAB
GALIJA
ORSAN A strong selection of charcoal grilled meats including
The restaurant of Dubrovniks yacht club has a reputation excellent steaks, plus unusual seafood specialities includ-
as one of the evergreen reliable spots for good quality ing shrimps in honey and sea urchins have a go, if you
food. The emphasis is, appropriately enough, on seafood. think youre hard enough! This pleasantly casual stone
Plenty of terrace seating overlooks the yachts and house has great terraces and is right on the Cavtat wa-
assorted marine traffic in the Gru harbour.QH2, Ivana terfront.QVulievieva 1, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 85
Zajca 2, tel. (+385-20) 43 68 22, www.restaurant-orsan- 66, www.galija.hr. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (80 - 180kn).
dubrovnik.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (80 - 200kn). PTA6UEGBXSW
PTA6GBXW
LEUT
OYSTER & SUSHI BAR BOTA One of the best places to try quality local cooking in
This is one of a number of locations around Croatia and its Cavtat, this little gem on the waterfront in the very cen-
very much fair to say that the Dubrovnik branch is every tre of this beautiful little town is renowned among locals
bit as good as that in Zagreb or in Split. The restaurant for its risottos. They dont mess around when it comes to
staff was exceptionally courteous, and were very helpful steaks and seafood either.QTrumbiev put 11, Cavtat,
in explaining the items on the menu. The restaurant itself tel. (+385-20) 47 84 77/(+385-) 098 24 42 25, www.
is entirely outdoors, on a secluded terrace, but there is a restaurant-leut.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (70 - 250kn).
nice view of the hustle and bustle just below. Although PAUGBW
situated at the centre of the Old City it is flanked by the
quieter streets. Ideally suited to a place for a quick bite, TORANJ
or a relaxing afternoon repast.QD4, Od Pustijerne bb, Situated beside a busy seafront square and with outdoor
tel. (+385-20) 32 40 34, www.bota-sare.hr. Open 09:00 seating on a first-floor terrace, Toranj does a consistently
- 23:00. From June Open 11:00 - 24:00. (28 - 135kn). grand job of dishing out the best in Dalmatian cuisine.
PJA6GBXW Grilled fish and shellfish as usual take up most pages in
the menu, although theres a solid choice of seafood pasta
dishes which - despite being listed as starters - constitute
VEGETARIAN a satisfying main course in their own right. Leave room for
NISHTA the tasty desserts.QObala A. Starevia 18, Cavtat, tel.
Jam packed into a street filled with restaurants is this small (+385-20) 47 95 77/(+385-) 099 434 12 03. Open 11:00 -
haven for non-meaty lovers. Youll find a fusion vegetarian 24:00. (80 - 130kn). PA6UGBXW
cuisine from all over the world. Choose from falafel, curry,
soups, salad bar and much more. The menu also contains
vegan and gluten-free dishes for those more in tune with KOLOEP
Mother Nature. Enjoy the local wines, beers, and home- VILLA RUA
made juices that Nishta has to offer. A lot of thought has The sunset from the terrace is unforgettable as the
gone into the design of the toilets, so make sure you Mediterranean Sea reflects in front of you. Add to that
arrive with a full bladder otherwise you will miss out on local Mediterranean specialties served amidst landscaped
the joke.QC2, Prijeko bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 88, www. stone, olive and pine trees surroundings, Villa Rua is
nishtarestaurant.com. Open 11:30 - 22:00. Closed Sun. a haven. Chock a block selection of wines. Means of
(77 - 95kn). JAGBXSW transport include regular ferry lines from the Gru Port
28 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
Local Flavour

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Spring 2017 29


Restaurants
or via private transfer.QDonje elo bb, Koloep Island, LOPUD
tel. (+385-20) 75 70 30/(+385-) 098 44 33 82, www. OBALA
villa-ruza.com. From May 15 Open 12:00 - 24:00. (155 - There can be few better places to relax over a leisurely
215kn). ABXW Adriatic meal than Obala, set right on Lopuds waterfront
with a trio of stately palm trees offering shade. The menu
KONAVLE covers familiar fish and seafood territory with the addition
of several chicken-based alternatives and a succulent
KONOBA KORAEVA KUA baked octopus with potatoes. Food prices are moderate;
Located on a sprawling property only a short drive from sunsets and the sound of lapping sea-water are on the
Dubrovnik, Koraeva kua offers stunning views, great house.QObala Ivana Kuljevana 18, Lopud, tel. (+385-20)
meals and rustic yet chic accommodation. The humble 75 91 70/(+385-) 098 51 27 25, www.obalalopud.com.
menu sources home-grown organic ingredients to create April Open 10:00 - 17:00. May - October Open 10:00 -
southern Dalmatian specialties favoured by locals and 24:00. (150 - 300kn). PAGBXW
visitors alike. Enjoy a glass of Croatian wine and soak in the
best the region has to offer.QGruda, tel. (+385-20) 79 15
57/(+385- ) 099 334 10 00. From April 15 Open 16:00 - MLINI
22:30. TA6LBW KONOBA MARINERO
NATIONAL RESTAURANT KONAVOSKI DVORI If you happen to be enjoying the fine beaches of upa
Tables are scattered in thick woods watered by the Ljuta Dubrovaka, be sure to pop into Konoba Marinero in
(angry) brook, whose force drives the millwheel and Mlini, where youll find colourful tables set in lush gardens
feeds the trout ponds. Fantastic meat dishes (and trout) overlooking the sea. Great seafood and local specialities
served by wait staff in traditional Konavle costume. You are carefully prepared by the lady owner a supremely
may be accompanied by several busloads of tourists. relaxing treat.Qetalite Marka Marojice 16, Mlini, tel.
QLjuta bb, Konavle, tel. (+385-20) 79 10 39/(+385-) 099 (+385-20) 48 72 57/(+385-) 098 69 96 13, www.vivado.
251 71 58, www.esculaprestaurants.com/. Open 12:00 - hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (70 - 180kn). A6LGBW
24:00. (80 - 110kn). ALGBXW
STON
KORULA VILA KORUNA
ADIO MARE The restaurant is known for its pristine oysters, local
Whether its the location next to the birthplace of Marco olives, cheese, hams and sensual wines. On offer are also
Polo, the great charcoal grilled food or the chef whos apt rooms and suites that have been refurbished with state
to burst into song, Adio Mare has been a Mecca for tourists of the art features. The surroundings are lush and neatly
for decades. Its the one with the queue waiting for a secluded. Friendly staff looks after every detail.QMali
table!QUlica Marca Pola 2, Korula town, tel. (+385-20) Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 49 99/(+385-) 098 34 42 33,
71 12 53/(+385-) 098 172 52 52, www.konobaadiomare. www.vila-koruna.hr. Open 07:00 - 23:00. (75 - 150kn).
hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. (90 - 180kn). PJAULGBXW
PJA6GBXW
ZURE ZATON
If you opt to enjoy the shallow, fine sand beaches at ANKORA
Lumbarda, dont miss a meal at this rather special place. The high point of this otherwise excellent fish restaurant is
The owners catch, rear and grow everything that lands on the terrace hovering so close to the sea that you could lean
your table. The food is excellent, and the pomegranate over the railing and draw your hand through the water.
rakija a unique experience!QLumbarda 239, Korula, tel. Great for a romantic meal at sundown, its worth the trip
(+385-20) 71 23 34/(+385-) 091 512 87 12, www.zure.hr. to this little village just north of Dubrovnik.QDr.Ante
Open 18:00 - 24:00. (70 - 180kn). A6UGBXW Starevia 2, Zaton Veliki, tel. (+385-20) 89 10 31, www.
restaurant-ankora-dubrovnik.com. From May Open
LASTOVO 11:00 - 24:00. (70 - 150kn). ABXW
TRITON BABILON
A frequent stop on yachting trips: theres a mooring When surrounded by the Mediterranean, then eat
right outside the house, and father / chef / fisherman Mediterranean. This casual restaurant offers an array
Toni has a very special way with island-grown capers. of fish and meat dishes of the local order and prepped
Fish carpaccio, marinated anchovy fillets, octopus salad, accordingly! With a terrace facing the sea in the Zaton Bay
home made Mediterranean herb rakija its all the stuff and only 12 km from the Old Town, its tip top for lunch
of dreams!QZaklopatica 15, Lastovo, tel. (+385-20) 80 11 and dinner.QBulet 1, Zaton Mali, tel. (+385-20) 89 12 82.
61/(+385-) 098 177 80 65, www.triton.hr. Open 08:00 - Open 08:00 - 24:00. (55 - 140kn). PA6LGBW
24:00. (60 - 200kn). NGBXW

30 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com


Local Flavour

Peljeac Varenik - Reduced most of plavac mali grape,


Slow Food Dubrovnik Archives

LOCAL DISHES
Despite Dubrovnik having centuries-old trading connec-
tions across the globe, the cuisine of this region is very
much based on the gifts of nature in this part of the world.
Classic Dubrovnik cuisine is seasoned with parsley, garlic,
olive oil and lemon, and perhaps a touch of rosemary or
bay leaf if the chef is on the adventurous side. A true Medi-
terranean experience, you might say.
This tendency to eschew more exotic ingredients can be a
double-edged sword. On the one hand, the citys menus
can seem somewhat repetitive. On the other hand, what
you eat is fresh, natural and, in the better restaurants, local.
The simplicity of the preparation lets the flavours of high
quality ingredients do the work. Its hard to beat a good
piece of meat or fish grilled over charcoal with a salad
freshly picked from a hinterland garden.
In defence of simple cooking, experiments with imagina-
tive cuisine can be like playing Russian roulette. In anything
but the most skilled hands and pedantic husbandry the
result can be disappointing. For example, in Provence, as
Financial Times food columnist Rowley Leigh complained
bitterly in summer 2012, its hard find an authentic bouilla-
baisse or ratatouille these days. Peasant food gains elevated
status and loses its guts. Croatian food is still unfashionably
plentiful and full of flavour, and all the better for it.
So, what can you eat in Dubrovnik if youd like to escape the
grilled fish - grilled meat - pasta trinity? The best answer is
the same as anywhere: the same as the local people eat
at home.
Lets start with the basics. porke makarule is the local
version of everyones favourite: spaghetti bolognaise.

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Spring 2017 31


Local Flavour
However, with hand-made pasta, small chunks of beef (pork, mutton, sausage) is cooked up with winter greens
(not mince) and fresh tomatoes, it becomes something and potato. When finished, the meat is served on a plate
special. Youll see big vats of the stuff served on the street at and the smokily scented veg dished up with a little of the
Carnival time in February. But even on the hottest day, add soupy liquid and lashings of olive oil. This dish dates from
a crisp green salad and youve the perfect lunch. the 16th century; for added historical effect substitute
A more special dish served throughout Dalmatia is barley for potato. Fast forward to springtime when broad
paticada. There are many variations, but generally a lean beans are ready for picking: try them cooked with smoked
piece of beef is studded with carrot, garlic and smoked ba- mutton, garlic, parsley and bacon fat.
con and marinated in wine, oil, vinegar with perhaps a little To get a little more exotic, consider an excursion north-
orange and lemon. Its cooked in a rich sauce, sometimes wards to the Peljeac peninsula, where you can treat your-
with prunes, and served with soft gnocci. self to Ostrea edulis, otherwise known as the finest oysters
A winter warmer that truly displays the spirit of the region in the world, prepared in a million different ways. While
is konavoska zelena menestra. A selection of cured meats youre there, look out also for butarga (dried flathead mul-

DUBROVNIK FOOD STORY hearty hosts whip up some immaculate traditional dish-
es. The Hop on hiccup food and wine tour - Peljeac
Your Food Guide in Dubrovnik Gourmet tour takes you to the best wine region this
side of the Adriatic as you visit charming family run wine
For the complete food and wine experience, this com- cellars, steep slopes covered with vineyards, and oyster
pany has it all! Pick and select from their selective tours farms.So no matter your choice, each tour is made for
which embrace a fusion of history and gastronomy, tradi- lasting impressions as your job is to toast, drink and eat.
tion and local ambience. Choose from their Dubrovnik Regular tours are in English but for bigger groups they
on a Plate Eat and Walk tour, visiting four culinary offer private tours in French, German, Spanish and Italian.
gems in the heart of town whilst hearing some funny Bookings in advance are essential and starting times vary
stories of historical sites in between. There is the Pick. for each tour. For further details, visit www.dubrovnik-
Cook.Eat- Traditional Cooking Class tour, where foodstory.com and as they say WARNING; an empty
youre taken to a typical family country home, pick your glass is strictly forbidden.Qtel. (+385-20) 29 51 44, www.
ingredients straight from the garden and along with your dubrovnikfoodstory.com.

32 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com


Local Flavour
let roe); there are a couple of families here who still pre-
pare this rare delicacy. Further north still, the Neretva river
estuary is home to all kinds of aquatic life and a magnet
for culinary adventurers. Fancy a plateful of snails cooked
over an open fire? Eel cooked in a rich brudet sauce? Frog
risotto, perhaps? Its the perfect end to a watery days safari.
To accompany your traditional-style meal youll want a
drop of the local grape. Where reds are concerned its easy.
The Peljeac peninsula is the home of some of the most
prized wines in Croatia: Dinga and Postup. Redolent Dubrovnik Food Story Archives
of the sun that warms the rocky vineyards, theyre high
in flavour and alcohol and a little bit pricey. Their cheaper
younger brother, Plavac peljeki, is a palatable alterna-
tive. For whites, look out for Dubrovnik Malvasia (not the
same thing as Istrian Malvazija). It might be white but its
pretty intense so can go with meats as well as fish.
And to finish off, youll see roata on many a menu: its the
local version of crme caramel. Not so frequently spotted
is stonska torta made with cooked macaroni. We think
theres no better way than to finish your meal than some
fragrant figs (fresh in season, dried at other times), a hand-
ful of almonds and a liquer made from oranges, man-
darins or rose petals.
And speaking of which, here are a couple of recipes you
might try to bring back sweet memories of your time in
Dubrovnik.

LOCAL RECIPES
Orancini
Peel an orange, preferably unwaxed, organically grown
(you dont want pesticides on the skin). Cut the peel into
strips about 3-5cm long and 0.5cm wide. Pop the peel into
a dish and cover with water. Leave to stand for two days.
Put the strips and water in a pan, bring to the boil then
drain off the water. Add sugar in an amount equal to the
weight of the orange strips. Stir in the pan with just a drop
of water until the water evaporates. Again, leave to drain,
then roll the strips in sugar. Leave to dry.

Brutulane mjendule
Sugared almonds to you and me. Weigh out some almonds,
pop them in a pan with an equal amount of sugar. For every
50g of almonds add a dessert spoon of water. Warm the Dubrovnik Food Story Archives
pan on a medium heat, constantly stirring until all the sugar
melts, then solidifies and sticks to the almonds. Shake onto
a plate and leave to cool before attacking.

Kotonjata
From Dubrovnik in the south, its a strongly flavoured des-
sert that looks like a jelly. No friends, its not a jelly at all
but is instead the wiggly product of a sweet and bitter fruit
called dunja. Wise old grandmas often place a number of
these yellow guys all around the house to ward off the
raunchier stenches that can build up from time to time.

Mantala
A purple - coloured cake served with sweet black syrup,
almonds and cinnamon. Sun Gardens Dubrovnik Food Story Archives

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Spring 2017 33


Coffee & Cakes
LIBERTINA (LUI)
COFFEE Cosy, snug, intimate all words to describe some place
BIKERS CAFE small, and indeed small it is, but it also the oldest caf
Perched up in a neighbourghood just above Ploe, this within the walls, and not even 35 years old at that. Opened
place is worth seeking out to meet up with bike fans from specifically for locals it would be fair to describe this place
around the world. The friendly staff will try their best to as Dubrovniks best kept secret. Opened by Lui, one of
sort you out with a place to stay.QL2, Petra Kreimira the famed Dubrovaki trubaduri it should really be on
IV 39, tel. (+385-) 098 68 07 11. Open 07:00 - 01:00. your list of places to enjoy a beer or two. Dont be sur-
PNBXW prised if you find youre sitting in someones seat though.
A thoroughly enjoyable experience.QD2, Zlatarska
CAVE BAR MORE 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 15 26. Open 10:00 - 14:00, 20:00 -
This natural cave, located under Hotel More, has, with a 24:00. 6GBXW
little help from the human hand, been transformed into
a delightfully relaxing bar. No music is played here: your SOUL CAFFE
thoughts and conversations are accompanied only by the This vintage chic cafe and rakija bar, hidden within the
sound of the sea. Enjoy a cocktail and give rein to your backstreets of the Old City, is the perfect spot to kick back
imagination!QF2, Kardinala Stepinca 33 (Hotel More), and relax with some friends. The musically inspired dim
tel. (+385-20) 49 42 00, www.cavebar-more.com. Open atmosphere offers a great environment for a low-key night
10:00 - 22:00. From June Open 10:00 - 24:00. AW out on the town. For some fresh air, theres additional seat-
ing outside, tucked in between the historic stone walls.
CELTIC BAR BELFAST QC3, Uska ulica 5, tel. (+385-) 095 199 85 07. Open
The Belfast is a caf situated near Kralj Tomislav, and 08:00 - 02:00. PTJA6EGBXW
while there is a lack of Irish beers it is certainly a welcom-
ing and relaxing place, in which to enjoy a kava or a small CAKES
beer during the warm Dubrovnik days. The interior is fes-
tooned with Celtic FC memorabilia, and the fittings and DOLCE VITA
fixtures are far from clichd bric-a-brac usually associated This colourful little spot does great cakes, muffins
with such places.QG2, Marka Marulia 21. Open 07:00 - and ice cream among the best in town just off
02:00. PT6NGBXW Stradun.QC2, Naljekovieva 1a, tel. (+385-20) 32
16 66/(+385-) 098 944 99 51. Open 09:00 - 24:00.
FASHION CAF PNB
In the heart of Lapad, this is a caf dedicated to those GOSSIP ICECREAM DUBROVNIK
who know their Bvlgari from their Balenciaga, with even If youre looking for a quick snack while exploring Du-
the occasional fashion show going on. Sunglasses the size brovnik then GosSip is the perfect spot to stop by. Lo-
of dinner plates are mandatory.QH2, Kralja Tomislava cated on Stradun, they offer tasty salads, sandwiches
7. Open 06:00 - 23:00. From June Open 06:00 - 02:00. and hotdogs, as well as various ice cream flavours and
P6NGBXW frozen yogurt to satisfy your sweet tooth. As well, they
even have mojitos-to-go, a refreshing drink to cool you
FESTIVAL off as you roam the ancient city. Also at Placa 3 un-
This coffee house right on Stradun is the place where lo- der the name Eat&Sweet!QC2, Bokovieva 1, tel.
cal bigwigs and intellectuals coagulate to chew the fat, (+385-) 098 950 67 22, www.icecream-dubrovnik.
literally and metaphorically. You can pick up a well-priced com. Open 08:00 - 22:00. From June Open 08:00 -
light lunch special here, and the terrace location couldnt 02:00. (10 - 50kn). TJNS
be better.QD2, Placa bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 48, www.
cafefestival.com. Open 08:00 - 23:00. From April 15 PUPICA
Open 07:30 - 02:00. PTA6GBXW Situated in the Old City, Pupica is the sort of patisser-
rie (slastiarnica) which would be right at home in
GLAM CAF almost any European city, town, or village, of charac-
If you fancy a healthy breakfast you might try here: as well ter. Teas, coffees, and juices are a given, but its the
as coffee, they do excellent fresh juices and smoothies. In wide selection of homemade cakes and confection-
the evening, this is a good place to get the night off to ary which offers a relaxing and refreshing change
a good start with one of their range of cocktails or craft from the cafe culture of Croatia. This should be a
beers.QC2, Palmotieva 5. Open 09:00 - 24:00. From definite on any list of places to visit, and youll likely
June Open 09:00 - 02:00. PJ6NGBXW find yourself making any excuse just to stop by and
sample yet another slice of whatever has taken your
fancy.QC3, Cvijete Zuzori 5, tel. (+385-) 099 216 54
facebook.com/ 54, www.pupodubrovnik.com. Open 07:00 - 22:00.
dubrovnikinyourpocket PTJA6UGBXW

34 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com


Coffee & Cakes

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Spring 2017 35


Nightlife
BARS CLUBS
ART CAFFE BANJE BEACH NIGHT CLUB
Unremarkable at first glance, step inside and youll dis- The Banje beach at Ploe is where posers come to perfect
cover a shabby-chic haven, with couches made from old- their tans, since Beach Club rents out funky loungers and
fashioned bathtubs and tables from re-cycled (ha ha) screens to protect ones privacy from the hoi polloi. This
washing machine drums. Cocktails, creativity and smooth- bar churns out cocktails and keeps em dancing til The
ies all in one small but perfect package.QK3, Branitelja Man says go home.QL5, Frana Supila 10b, tel. (+385-20)
Dubrovnika 25, tel. (+385-) 095 866 04 11. Open 09:00 41 22 20/(+385-) 099 211 96 66, www.banjebeach.com.
- 02:00. GBXW From May Open Sat 22:00 - 04:00. PABW

BUA CULTURE CLUB REVELIN


What a place to sit rocky terraces overlooking the open Back in the day, the 15th century Revelin Fortress used to
sea south of the Old Town. Theres no running water here protect the city from robust invaders, nowadays it is home
so bottled drinks only - which are pretty pricey - but the to the vivacious Revelin nightclub. Its two floors are often
laid back music and hedonistic mood make up for every- jam-packed with punters dancing to local and interna-
thing.QD4, Outside the city walls near St.Stephens tional music. The terrace is a great escape for some fresh
tower, tel. (+385-) 098 36 19 34. Open 08:00 - 02:00 or air and its seaside views.QE1, Sv. Dominika bb (Fort
according to weather conditions. B Revelin), tel. (+385-) 098 53 35 31, www.clubrevelin.
com. Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00. From Mid May Open
BUZZ BAR
23:00 - 06:00. PAW
Located parallel to Stradun, this lively bar offers an array of
drinks to enjoy with your friends during a night out on the
town. For those who like sweet drinks they have a long list LAZARETI
of various cocktails. They also offer a variety of local Croa- These superb stone spaces in the former quarantine house
tian beers, such as Zmajsko Pale Ale and Grika Vjetica, are given over to happenings of an arty/underground na-
an extra strong dark beer. As well, for a special treat, they ture, including quality DJs spinning electronica. An inter-
host live music nights.QC2, Prijeko 21, tel. (+385-20) 32 national multimedia festival is held here, which includes
10 25. Open 08:00 - 02:00. PJ6UEBXW independent, cutting-edge music, theatre, dance and
more. For info on programme check their FB.QL2, Frana
MIRAGE Supila bb, www.lazareti.com. Open Fri, Sat 22:00 -
Located in the Old City of Dubrovnik, just behind the Ca- 05:00. From June Open Thu - Sat 22:00 - 05:00.
thedral in the Bunic Square, Caffe Bar Mirage provides an
excellent service while creating a unique experience for
every guest. With an offer, ranging from warm beverages LOUNGE BARS
to the most famous cocktails in town, this vibrant bar is a
popular local and tourist hangout.QC3, Bunieva polja CULTO
na 3, tel. (+385-) 091 400 90 78. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat Escape the scorching summer heat and cool off at Culto!
and Sun 08:00 - 02:00. From May Open 08:00 - 02:00. What makes this bar unique is its exquisitely decorated in-
PJABXW terior and good atmosphere. Definitely worth a visit, it has
a vibe and attracts a bubbly crowd.QI4, Iva Vojnovia
NONE NINA 39a, tel. (+385-) 099 314 64 96. Open 08:00 - 04:00,
A perfect spot for people-watching on comfy loungers Open 08:00 - 00:00, Sat 08:00 - 04:00 , Sun 10:00 - 00:00.
right opposite the Rectors Palace you can see people PA6XW
climbing about on the city walls. This place does coffees
by day and shakes the cocktails by night. The toilets are
designed for the fairy people.QD3, Pred Dvorom 4, PUBS
tel. (+385-) 098 915 99 09, www.nonenina.com. Open GAFFE PUB
09:00 - 02:00. PAEBW For a low key night out on the town, slide down one of the
side streets off of Stradun and into this Irish inspired Pub.
ROCK CAFFE EXIT The dark green walls adorned with Irish paraphernalia and
Bar on the first floor of a small building, just off the Stradun, thick wooden tables give the place an Irish feel. Enjoy a
not visible but audible from the outside. It has very good sporting event on one of the many large screen TVs with
acoustics and friendly staff. Altogether a good atmosphere some friends as you savour a Guinness, Carling or Erdinger
to start the night out.QC2, Bokovieva 4, tel. (+385-) beer. They also offer a variety of dishes and snacks if you
095 914 54 62. Open 18:00 - 02:00. PJENXW get the munchies, such as Hummus, Caesar Salad Chicken
Wings or BBQ Ribs.QC3, Miha Pracata 4, tel. (+385-20)
64 01 52. Open 09:00 - 24:00. From May Open 09:00 -
youtube.com/inyourpocket 01:00. PJA6GBXW

36 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com


Nightlife

IRISH PUB KARAKA to enjoy the sights and sounds of the most popular street,
This popular meeting spot is a must during your trip to Stradun, by day.QD3, Luarica 1, tel. (+385-) 099 462 95
Dubrovnik. Its a delightful and lively place to enjoy a drink 55, www.labodega.hr. Open 08:00 - 02:00. PJA
with your friends while youre out visiting the Old Town. 6BXW
Big screen TVs show the latest sporting events, while this
fun-filled pub is always filled with people pouring out MATUKO
into the stone streets of Dubrovnik.QC2, Izmeu polaa This local family, known for producing some of the finest
5, tel. (+385-20) 32 39 70, www.irishpubkaraka.com. wines from Potomje, a village located in the Peljaac re-
Open 09:00 - 02:00. PTJAUGBXW gion, goes by the motto, Svi smo mi Mato Matuko samo
je Dundo Bobo. Their wine bar, located in the Old City
is a a great spot to unwind from a busy day. Sit back and
WINE BARS relax in this cozy brick and stone environment with a glass
DVINO of Royal Dinga or Poip. They also are currently the only
In a narrow street just off the Stradun, this is a great place place in Dubrovnik where you can smoke shisha.QC2, Pri
for sampling local tipple by the glass, with good advice on jeko 6, tel. (+385-) 099 807 08 02, www.matusko-vina.
what to try from the friendly staff. Attracts a good mix of hr. Open 10:00 - 02:00. PTJA6EGBXW
locals and tourists, most of whom end up engaged in half-
sozzled conversation on the stone steps outside. Along RAZONODA WINE BAR
with wine, you can enjoy the home made delicacies such This wine and Croatian tapas bar is one of the newest ad-
as prosciutto, cheese, kulen, olives, and a bit of this to a ditions to the Old Town. Its part of the Puci Palace Hotel
bit of that for a Dalmatian sensation.Breakfast is served and has a refined and gentlemens club feel. They offer the
from 8:00.QC2, Palmotieva 4a, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 30, finest Croatian wines, from the Peljeac region in south-
www.dvino.net. Open 10:00 - 02:00. JAGBW ern Croatia, to Istra in the northwest and Slavonia in the
northeast. As a snack, munch on some prut, cheese or
LA BODEGA DUBROVNIK marinated anchovies. Theres also plenty of unique drink
Conveniently located in the heart of the Old City, right options for all non-wine lovers to try, such as craft beer
next to the St. Blaise church, this is a great spot for drinking from Croatian Garden brewery, cocktails and an array of
some superb wine. This chic and trendy wine bar at night, domestic liquors brands.QC3, Od pua 1, tel. (+385-)
also offers a breakfast and brunch menu for the early birds 091 332 41 04. Open 12:00 - 24:00. PAGW

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Spring 2017 37


Sightseeing
Dubrovnik. Its the place people bump into and chat with
ESSENTIAL DUBROVNIK friends on their daily business, and dress up for a stroll in
DOMINICAN MONASTERY (DOMINIKANSKI the evening or at coffee time. Stradun marks the divid-
SAMOSTAN) ing line between the earliest settlement and the parts
The Dominican order was established in Dubrovnik in the of the city that followed. This first settlement was on the
13th century, and with the building of their monastery a land south of Stradun, and was then named Laus, Greek
century later, they became an important part of the citys for rock, since it was originally an island. From the name
defences the monastery is at a strategic corner of the Laus came Raus, Rausa and then Ragusa. Although Laus
Old Town, vulnerable to attack from land and sea. Graceful has probably been inhabited by Illyrian peoples since the
stone steps lead up to the complex notice that the balus- 4th century, it was colonised in the 7th century by Greco-
trades have been filled in to prevent rogues from looking Roman refugees from Cavtat fleeing Slav incursions. Later,
up devout ladies skirts! As befits the monasterys strate- Slavs settled the land across the narrow, marshy channel
gic position, from the outside it is fairly austere, but inside this settlement was called Dubrava, from the Slav word for
hides a jewel of a gothic and renaissance cloister (1456- oak tree. The channel was filled in during the 12th cen-
1469), with a thick carpet of grass in the centre. The in- tury, thus creating Stradun, and the two towns integrated
terior of the monastery church is delightfully simple, with and began to build the city walls.QB/C2.
a sweeping wooden roof and some fine stone furniture.
The Dominican monastery, like the Franciscan, holds an THE CHURCH OF ST BLAISE (CRKVA SV. VLAHA)
important library and collection of art including a painting Named after the saint protector of Dubrovnik, this is per-
of Dubrovnik before the great earthquake by local master haps the church most beloved of the citys people. Sitting
Nikola Boidarevi that has been invaluable to historians in four square on Stradun, its stained glass windows by lo-
reconstructing the look of the Old Town, as well as impor- cal artist Ivo Duli (1971) lit up at night make a wonder-
tant works by Titian, Paolo Veneziano and Vlaho Bukovac ful show. A church has stood on this spot since 1368, but
of neighbouring Cavtat. Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sun 08:30, following a fire, the present church (1717) was built in Ba-
11:00 and 19:00.QD2, Sv. Dominika 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 roque style by Venetian architect Marino Gropelli, who was
22 00. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 30/20 kn. also sculptor of the statue of St Blaise standing above the
entrance to the church, protectively holding a scale model
LOKRUM ISLAND of the Old Town in his hand. The churchs front steps are
You dont have to travel far to experience the tranquillity of the setting for some of the most important events of the
island life: The island of Lokrum is a mere 15 minute boat life of the city, including New Years Eve and the opening
cruise. Its one of the best spots for a swim. The islands night of the Dubrovnik Summer Festival, which always
shores are rocky, but the peace and the racket of crickets used to include a concert by legendary renaissance-pop
are something else, theres a tiny saltwater lake which is group and Eurovision contestants The Troubadours. Mass
perfect for kids, and theres a naturist beach to the east of in foreign languages can be arranged by appointment.
the jetty. Thick pine forests have been complemented by QD3, Lua 3. Open 07:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 18:00, Sunday
cultivated gardens first begun by Benedictine monks - the 07:00 - 13:00. August Open 07:00 - 24:00. No admission.
monastery here was founded in the 11th century, appar-
ently by grateful citizens after being spared from a great THE CITY WALLS, BASTIONS AND PILE & PLOE
fire in Dubrovnik. Austrian Archduke Ferdinand Maximil- GATES (GRADSKE ZIDINE, TVRAVE, GRADSKA
ian Joseph built a summer house and formal gardens here, VRATA PILE, VRATA OD PLOA)
and a botanical garden was founded in 1959 Lokrum is Almost two kilometres in length, Dubrovniks city walls
now a Nature Reserve. Lokrums hills are topped by a star are among the best preserved and most attractive on this
shaped fort built by the French in 1806, from which you planet, and a walk along them is an absolute must. The de-
have great views.QL3, tel. (+385-20) 31 17 38/(+385-) fences were built between the 8th and the 16th centuries.
099 254 67 77, www.lokrum.hr. Boats leave every 30 The fact that on the land side they are almost 6m thick in
or 60 minutes depending on the season, the amount of places shows their primary purpose as defence against at-
visitors and weather therefore we suggest you contact tack from the mountainous hinterland the Ottoman Em-
the office for further information. A return ticket costs pire, for example, lay just a few kilometers inland. The walls
120kn per person, for kids until the age of 15, 20kn. were strengthened by myriad towers and bastions, and
were never breached the Republic of Dubrovnik only
STRADUN, PLACA fell after Napoleons armies were invited in on condition
When talking about finding your way around town, youll that they would respect its independence. Two further
often hear people referring to Stradun, which you wont fortresses, Revelin to the east and Lovrijenac, on a head-
see on any street signs. Its the unofficial name for the land just west of the Old Town, provided additional stra-
main street Placa that joins the two main entrances to tegic defence. Revelin is a venue for concerts during the
the Old Town at Ploe in the east and Pile in the west. The Dubrovnik Summer Festival. Lovrijenac is one of the most
name comes from the Italian strada, meaning street. With atmospheric venues of the festival, with traditional perfor-
its shining limestone flags and the uniform baroque build- mances of Hamlet taking place under the stars. Your ticket
ings that line it, it is itself one of the best known sights of to the city walls includes entrance to Lovrijenac, and its

38 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com


Sightseeing

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Spring 2017 39


Sightseeing

Photo by Igor Brautovi, Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives

well worth visiting. It was for some time used as a prison, THE RECTORS PALACE (KNEEV DVOR)
and is surrounded by delightful parkland with some of the One of the loveliest buildings in the city and the seat of the
best views of the city, a great picnic spot. The Mineta fort, Rector, the figurehead of the Republic elected within the
just north of the Pile gate, with its stylized battlements, is nobility, whose term lasted for just one month confining
one of the symbols of the city, and St Johns fortress hous- him to these quarters which he could only leave on official
es the Maritime Museum and Aquarium. Apart from the occasions and religious holidays. The building changed
fortresses, each of which has its own story and character, its appearance after two explosions of gunpowder stored
the Pile and Ploe gates are also masterpieces. From these here, and its current appearance is mainly thanks to the
gates, you now access the Old Town over stone bridges renaissance designs of Juraj Dalmatinac of Zadar and Mi-
ending in drawbridges spanning the moat, now filled with chelozzo Mihelozzi of Florence in the 1460s. Alterations
park benches and orange trees. Above the gates youll see were added in baroque style in the 17th century following
reliefs of St Blaise, protector of the city.Qtel. +385 (0)20 63 the earthquake, and since the original building by Onofrio
88 00/+385 (0)20 63 88 01, www.citywallsdubrovnik.hr. della Cava, creator of the city aqueduct and fountains, was
Open 08:00-18:30. From May Open 07:00 - 18:30. Ad in gothic style, the result is a blend of styles which is time-
mission 150/50 kn. lessly romantic. The palaces frontage has a delightful col-
onnade with choir style decorative stone benches. Inside,
THE FRANCISCAN MONASTERY OF THE a beautiful courtyard is the venue for recitals and concerts.
FRIARS MINOR AND THE OLD PHARMACY The palace is now a Cultural History Museum where you
(FRANJEVAKI SAMOSTAN I STARA APOTEKA can view the richly appointed offices and quarters of the
MALE BRAE) Rector, plus the arsenal, courtroom and prison cells. Art-
The Romanesque cloister of the Franciscan monastery is works, costumes and domestic objects of the period are
an absolute delight, decorated with the remnants of old all on display.QD3, Pred Dvorom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32
frescoes, and with delicate pillars surrounding a garden 14 97, www.dumus.hr. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Open from
where orange trees grow. The monastery is most famous June 1 due to renovation. Unified ticket costing 120kn
for its pharmacy, among the oldest in Europe and the old- for adults, 100kn for groups (10+ persons) and 25kn for
est one still working. The monastery houses a museum students and pupils includes entry to Rectors Palace,
where you can see original items from the pharmacy, Maritime Museum, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Rev
plus an extensive library with precious incunabula, manu- elin Fortress archaeological exhibit, House of Marin
scripts, a large collection of musical notations and a trea- Dri, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Natural History Museum
sury of artworks. Outside the Church of the Little Brothers and Duli, Masle, Pulitika Gallery. J
on Stradun youll see a lovely relief of the Pieta, and, on
a lighter note, a gargoyle below knee height. The trick is
to stand on it facing the wall its the test of a real man! GALLERIES
Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sun 07:00, 09:30, 11:00 and 19:00. DUBROVNIK ART GALLERY (UMJETNIKA
QD2, Placa 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 10, www.malabraca. GALERIJA DUBROVNIK)
wix.com/malabraca. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Admission This 1930s mansion just outside the Old Town at Ploe
30/15 kn. is the place to see an extensive collection of Croatian
40 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
Sightseeing
modern paintings and sculpture which encompasses al- THE DULI, MASLE, PULITIKA GALLERY/RON-
most all important artists since the beginning of the 20th ALD BROWN MEMORIAL HOUSE (GALERIJA
century.QL5, Put Frana Supila 23, tel. (+385-20) 42 65 DULI, MASLE, PULITIKA/MEMORIJALNA
90, www.ugdubrovnik.hr. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed KUA RONALD BROWN)
Mon. Unified ticket costing 120kn for adults,100kn for This fine house next to the Rectors Palace is home to a
groups (10+ persons) and 25kn for students and pupils gallery with some of the finest views in Europe the win-
includes entry to Rectors Palace, Maritime Museum, dows look out onto the Cathedral, rivalling the artworks
Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Revelin Fortress archaeo inside. The three painters that make up the gallerys title
logical exhibit, House of Marin Dri, Dubrovnik Art are famous for painting local themes in eye-poppingly
Gallery, Natural History Museum and Duli, Masle, vivid style. uro Pulitikas swirly, candy-coloured land-
Pulitika Gallery. scapes are a particular joy, and its a wonder that this
little-frequented attraction doesnt get a whole lot more
OTOK GALLERY, ARL (GALERIJA OTOK, ARL) visitors. The building was repaired and renovated by the
A gallery in the Dubrovnik Lazaret the former quarantine US Government and serves as a memorial to Secretary
houses which now houses an artists community, includ- of Commerce Ronald Brown who in 1996 died in a plane
ing workshops and this gallery. Contemporary local art of crash flying to Dubrovnik.QD3, Poljana Marina Dria
an excellent standard.QL2, Frana Supila 8, tel. (+385-20) 1, tel. (+385-20) 61 26 45, www.ugdubrovnik.hr. Open
32 46 33. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admis 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Unified ticket costing 120kn
sion free. for adults, 100kn for groups (10+ persons) and 25kn for
students and pupils includes entry to Rectors Palace,
THE ATELIER OF DUBRAVKA LOI Maritime Museum, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Rev
The Atelier of Dubravka Loi provides art lovers with a elin Fortress archaeological exhibit, House of Marin
peak into the mind and soul of one of Dubrovniks premier Dri, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Natural History Museum
modern artists. Ms. Loi combines several mediums and and Duli, Masle, Pulitika Gallery.
artistic genres: painting, installation pieces and costume
design. The Atelier is housed in an industrial space and THE SPONZA PALACE (PALAA SPONZA)
features some of her ongoing projects. Visits are available For many, the most romantic of Dubrovniks buildings,
by appointment only.QObala Stjepana Radia 2, tel. with its gallery on Stradun and its mix of gothic and renais-
(+385-) 91 439 13 53, www.dubravkalosic.com/. sance detail, this was always a public building. Directly fac-

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Sightseeing
ing Orlandos column, the scene of all dramas of public life, DUBROVNIK CABLE CAR
Sponza housed the Republics mint and customs house The 778 meter journey gives you breathtaking views over
all the Republics trade passed through here. It was the Old City. The upper station has two panoramic ter-
built 1516-1522 according to designs by Paskoje Milievi. races equipped with binocular telescopes, a snack bar, a
Today, the graceful atrium is used as an exhibition space panoramic restaurant, a souvenir shop and more. The low-
and venue for recitals. A room to the left as you enter is er station is at the beginning of King Petar Kreimir Street
dedicated to the memory of fallen soldiers during the (opposite the fire station) where tickets can be bought,
siege of Dubrovnik 1991-92 (Open 10:00 - 22:00. Admis- also in Restaurant Panorama at the top of Mount Sr, or
sion free). The upper galleries were once the place where in Restaurant Dubravka close to the Pile Gates where you
the citys artists and intellectuals held salons. The build- can pay in kuna or by credit card. From other places (e.g.
ing also contains the Dubrovnik State Archives, a treasure travel agencies and souvenir shops) tickets are payable in
trove of documentation on the Republic. In the gift shop euro.QL2, Petra Kreimira IV bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 53
on the ground floor you can buy replicas of these historic 93, www.dubrovnikcablecar.com. Open 09:00 - 20:00.
documents; the archives themselves are mainly here for June - August Open 09:00 - 24:00. Round-trip ticket
research purposes.QD2, Svetog Dominika 1, tel. (+385- 130/60 kn.
20) 32 10 32, www.dad.hr. Open 10:00 - 16:00. From
May Open 10:00 - 22:00. Admission 25kn. GUNDULI SQUARE (GUNDULIEVA POLJANA)
This square is named after the long-haired chappie stand-
WAR PHOTO LIMITED ing in the centre one Ivan Gunduli, a Dubrovnik states-
A gallery dedicated to thought-provoking images of war man and Baroque poet whose verse set the standard for
by leading photographers essential for anyone inter- literary Croatian which is still accepted today. The statue to
ested in the nature of conflict or simply in stunning if him was erected in 1893. Gundulis poems were hymns to
sometimes disturbing images.QC2, Antuninska 6, his home city and the struggles of the Slav nations against
tel. (+385-20) 32 21 66, www.warphotoltd.com. Open rival powers. The square bordered by elegant shops, res-
10:00 - 16:00. Closed Tue. From May Open 10:00 - 22:00. taurants and homes is the Old Towns fruit market in the
Admission 50/40 kn. mornings.QC/D3.

ONOFRIOS FOUNTAINS GREAT AND SMALL


LANDMARKS (VELIKA I MALA ONOFRIJEVA FONTANA)
One of the first spectacular sights that greets you when
BONINOVO CLIFFS
you enter Stradun from the Pile Gate is the Great Onofrio
It might be considered somewhat morbid that such an
Fountain, with its huge central dome and sixteen wa-
infamous location is becoming more and more a tourist
ter taps all around. A ledge and steps around the water
attraction; the Boninovo Cliffs are known to the locals as
trough provide a perfect resting spot for tired sightseers.
a popular (though we are loathe to use such a word as
The fountain is the end point of the aqueduct that archi-
popular here) suicide spot. The fence, which guards pass-
tects Onofrio dell Cava and Andriuzzi de Bulbilo built from
ing pedestrians against unfortunate demise, is now popu-
a source near the river, almost 12km away, one of the first
lated by a myriad array of padlocks, left there by couples to
aqueducts to be built on the territories of todays Croatia.
commemorate their very-much-alive love for each other.
Completed in 1438, the fountain was once more ornate
The view from here, and from the nearby benches, is spec-
with a massive cupola, but was damaged in the great
tacular, and it is all too easy to while away an hour in the
earthquake and never repaired. Onofrios small fountain is
dying heat of the day. It is bit a ten minute brisk walk from
an elegant little masterpiece decorated with playful dol-
the Pile Gate of the Old City. It is at once both a place of
phins that stands near the tower at the other end of Stra-
reflection and sombre beauty. Its best appreciated either
dun.QB2, D3, Poljana Paska Milievia, Pred Dvorom.
at the height of the tourist influx (since theyre all in the
Old City), or during the evening sunset, as life winds down
along the coastline. ORLANDOS COLUMN (ORLANDOV STUP)
In front of the Church of St Blaise stands a column with a
carving of Orlando (or Roland), nephew of Charlemagne
DUBROVNIK AQUARIUM (AKVARIJ DU- and legend of minstrel ballads embodying freedom and
BROVNIK) nobility. The column was raised in 1418, and from that
Located in St. Johns Fortress, this underwater world is a date the flag of St Blaise flew here right until the end of
delight to visit. Wander around this tranquil atmosphere, the Republic. Today youll see the white Libertas flag sym-
as you view a variety of Adriatic Sea flora and fauna. The bolizing the citys enduring spirit of independence. This
sea animals include eels, starfish, scorpion fish, seahorses spot was once the marketplace and to some extent still
and many more.QE3, Kneza Damjana Jude 12, tel. is the political heart of the city: it was the place where
(+385-20) 32 39 78, www.imp-du.com. Open 09:00 - citizens were once summoned to hear state decrees and
16:00. May Open 09:00 - 20:00. June Open 09.00 - 21.00. to witness punishments. Orlandos right forearm was used
Admission 60/20 kn. as the standard for the traditional Dubrovnik measure for

42 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com


Sightseeing

trading fabric a Ragusan cubit or lakat (elbow) you can dating back to 1444 was destroyed and rebuilt in 1928. The
see the rather more convenient measure near the bottom bell weighs two tonnes and was cast by a master crafts-
of the sculpture.QD2, Pred Dvorom. man famed far and wide for casting bells and cannons:
Ivan Krstitelj Rabljanin - or John the Baptist of Rab Island.
ORSULA PARK The towers clock with its sunburst centerpoint is rather
There is a gorgeous view overlooking the Old Town, all lovely in its simplicity.QD3, Pred Dvorom.
the way to Cavtat and the island of Lokrum, from this
phenomenal location next to the remains of the 14th THE CITY HALL AND MARIN DRI THEATRE
century St Orsulas Church. There is an amphitheatre here (VIJENICA I KAZALITE MARINA DRIA)
that seats 350 and is set on a cliff, 200 metres above the South of the clock tower on the eastern end of Stradun
sea. It is a 25 minute walk from the Old Town or a short begins a remarkable chain of buildings. The first is the old
ride by the No.10 bus. After the Ambient Croatia Associa- Arsenal, with three (originally four) huge arches facing
tion saved and renovated this location, Dubrovnik has also seawards. Here, galleons would be brought into dry dock
gained a new summer stage for concerts of various do- for repair. (Now, its a place to bring hungry stomachs for
mestic and international musical performers, who will play refilling, and for lubricating throats). The city coffee house
here throughout the summer.QMagistralni put 2, www. is a grand caf with seating overlooking St Blaises Church.
parkorsula.du-hr.net. Next door are the chambers of the city council, followed
by the Marin Dri Theatre. The buildings are fronted by
THE CITY BELLTOWER (GRADSKI ZVONIK, LUA steps and balustrades its a fine sight to see the theatre-
ZVONARA) goers and orchestras musicians gathered there on a warm
Look carefully at the bell in the tower that crowns the evening.QD3, Pred Dvorom 1. Open 9:00 - 12:00, 18:00
east end of Stradun, and youll notice the figures of two - 20:00.
men, poised to strike with hammers. If your zoom isnt up
to the task of making them out clearly, you can see their THE CITY HARBOUR (GRADSKA LUKA)
two older brothers in the Sponza palace next door. Their Dubrovnik owes its very existence to shipping. There is
green colour is a result of their copper composition rather evidence that the lands here were first colonised by Illyrian
than their roots on Mars. They are affectionately known as tribes in the 4th century, probably attracted by the secu-
zelenci the green ones or, individually, Maro and Baro, rity offered by the island which lay where the southern half
the descendents of the two original wooden figures. The of the Old Town now stands, and by the natural lie of the
bell is the only original part of the tower an older one land with Mount Sr standing guard. It lay at a natural rest-

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Sightseeing
ing point on the maritime trade routes that existed even hours. Other rooms are used for temporary exhibitions.
before the Roman Empire. After the Slavs settled here QC4, Androvieva 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 88, www.
and began fortifying the city in the 13th century, owing pmd.hr. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed
to good diplomatic ties with powers such as Turkey and Sun, From June Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Unified
Venice, Dubrovnik began to establish a healthy shipping ticket costing 120kn for adults, 100kn for groups (10+
trade. Two harbours were built in rocky, protected coves: persons) and 25kn for students and pupils includes en
a main one near the Ploe gates and a smaller one on the try to Rectors Palace, Maritime Museum, Ethnographic
Pile side. Through trade, Dubrovnik grew wealthy and rose Museum Rupe, Revelin Fortress archaeological exhibit,
to rival that other maritime city state, Venice. During the House of Marin Dri, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Natural
citys golden age in the 16th century, the merchant navy History Museum and Duli, Masle, Pulitika Gallery.
numbered around 200 ships. Shipbuilding was a highly
important industry, and the Dubrovnik Karaka, a beautiful ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM RUPE (ETNOGRAF-
galleon, was well known as being of exceptional quality SKI MUZEJ RUPE)
as it was made of durable Lebanese Cedar. You can see a Rupe is named after the pits which were hewn out of
replica in Gru harbour in the evenings. The sheltered har- living rock in this granary, which was used for drying and
bour at Ploe has a wonderful atmosphere, and is now the storing imported grain for the citys people. Built in 1590,
spot for embarking on a boat tour, for buying local textiles this is a fascinating building in itself, and the exhibits show-
from the local ladies sewing in the shade, or for enjoying a case the economic, cultural and spiritual development of
good meal.QD/E2/3. Dubrovnik. The folk costumes and textiles give the best
flavour of the region where folk culture is still celebrated.
THE LAZARET (LAZARETI) QB3, Od Rupa 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 13, www.dumus.
Just past the Ploe gates is a row of adjoining stone build- hr. Open 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Tue. Unified ticket cost
ings with gates guarding the courtyards. This was the Du- ing 120kn for adults, 100kn for groups (10+ persons)
brovnik lazaret - quarantine houses for travellers in times and 25kn for students and pupils includes entry to Rec
of plague. Since these buildings were usually destroyed tors Palace, Maritime Museum, Ethnographic Museum
when the need for them passed, Dubrovniks lazaret is Rupe, Revelin Fortress archaeological exhibit, House of
one of the last remaining in Europe. The rather impres- Marin Dri, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Natural History Mu
sive stone buildings now house artists workshops and a seum and Duli, Masle, Pulitika Gallery.
humanitarian organisation, and are the venue for concerts
and DJ parties.QL2, Frana Supila bb. MARITIME MUSEUM (POMORSKI MUZEJ)
Considering how vital sailing and shipbuilding were to
the growth of the Dubrovnik Republic, this is one of the
MUSEUMS citys most important museums. The display of models of
DUBROVNIK NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM the fine galleons that were once built here is the stuff of
(PRIRODOSLOVNI MUZEJ DUBROVNIK) fairy tales they, along with blueprints from the archives,
The collection dates back to 1872 when the Museo Patrio were used for building the replicas that you might glimpse
(Native Musem) was founded with a donation from the in the Gru harbour today. Along with the Aquarium, the
Chamber of Trade and Crafts and the private collection of Museum is housed in the massive St Johns fortress on the
pharmacist and ship-owner Antun Drobac. The collection old harbour.QE4, St. Johns fortress (Tvrava sv. Ivana),
of 100 year-old taxidermy specimens may not appeal to tel. (+385-20) 32 39 04, www.dumus.hr. Open 09:00 -
everyone, but kids will probably love it and learn a lot too, 22:00. Closed Mon. Unified ticket costing 120kn for
and the museum is not so big as to keep you on foot for adults, 100kn for groups (10+ persons) and 25kn for

Dubravka Loi Atelier Archives

44 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com


Sightseeing

students and pupils includes entry to Rectors Palace, THE CROATIAN WAR OF INDEPENDENCE
Maritime Museum, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Rev MUSEUM
elin Fortress archaeological exhibit, House of Marin The Fort Imperial on Mount Sr is the site of a permanent
Dri, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Natural History Museum exhibition dedicated toDubrovnik during the Homeland
and Duli, Masle, Pulitika Gallery. War 1991-1995. Displays include the fall of the Republic of
Dubrovnik, the Serbian aggression in 1991, the victory of
THE BIRTHPLACE OF MARIN DRI (DOM MA- the Croatian forces in 1995 and the devastating toll it took
RINA DRIA) on the local population and the citys rich cultural heritage.
This picturesque gothic town house is the place where QK2, Imperial Fort, Sr Hill. Open 09:00 - 18:00. From
Marin Dri was born. Dri only became accepted as one June Open 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 30kn.
of the greats of Croatian literature after his death, as he was
a bit too much of a wild card. His many exploits included THE SYNAGOGUE AND JEWISH MUSEUM (SINA-
sending a series of letters to the Medici family in Florence, GOGA I IDOVSKI MUZEJ)
seeking their help in overthrowing the Dubrovnik govern- The Synagogue (1352, the second oldest in Europe after
ment, convinced that it was run by elitist autocrats. He is Prague) and Jewish museum are set in a building which
best loved for his satirical plays, and he is regarded as one could be reached from within the surrounding houses in
of the greats of European renaissance literature. His birth- what was once the Jewish ghetto. A permanent Jewish
place has been transformed into an in situ exhibition of community here was founded at the end of the 15th cen-
the playwright, whose comedies are regularly performed tury following the exodus from Portugal and Spain. The
at the Dubrovnik Summer Festival.QB3, iroka 7, tel. community flourished and included respected doctors,
(+385-20) 32 32 42/(+385-20) 32 32 96, www.muzej- merchants and state representatives. Jews in Dubrovnik
marindrzic.eu. Open 09:00 - 20:30. From June Open enjoyed relative freedom, but there were some restric-
09:00 - 22:00. Unified ticket costing 120kn for adults, tions on their activities at certain points in history. The
100kn for groups (10+ persons) and 25kn for students Synagogue is tiny and delightful, with heavy velvet drapes
and pupils includes entry to Rectors Palace, Maritime and a richly painted, midnight blue ceiling. The museum
Museum, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Revelin For contains valuable menorahs and Torah scrolls, alongside
tress archaeological exhibit, House of Marin Dri, information on the history of the Jewish community in
Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Natural History Museum and Dubrovnik.QD2, udioska 5, tel. (+385-20) 32 12 04.
Duli, Masle, Pulitika Gallery. J Open 09:00 - 19:00. Admission 40kn.

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Dubrovnik Surroundings

Photo by Boris Jovi, Soline, Mljet Tourist Board Archives

Islands tectural elegance of the Republic of Dubrovnik, as the citys


shipowners built their summer residences here. Thus you
The Elaphite archipelago consists of 13 islands and islets, have fine stone villas, some of which are now super family-
of which only three are inhabited. Robinson Crusoe will get run hotels. Lopud is perhaps the prettiest of the Elafiti is-
a run for his money here as the nature and culture on the lands, and during the golden age of Dubrovnik there were
islands are next to perfection; the peace and tranquillity, thirty churches on less than 5km2 of island. (Many church-
invaluable. The island sitting high north of the Dubrovnik/ es and palaces on all the islands now lie in ruins, but theyre
Neretva County is Korula which is filled with its rich cul- still interesting to chance across on your wanders). Lopud
ture, historical remains and natural surroundings. The town village has a well-planted old park with stone balustrades
of Korula is also known as Little Dubrovnik because of the and statuary framing the sea. Lopud and Koloep have true
walls that surround it. The island of Lastovo is the second sandy beaches, very shallow ones, perfect for children and
most forested island in the Adriatic earning it the title of a the popular local ball game picigin. Most of Lopuds unj
Nature Park. With a National Park on the western front to a beach is given up to sun loungers for hire, but there is a na-
reserve of natural assets on the eastern front, the island of turist section to one side, and, according to a local legend,if
Mljet is full of flora and fauna, fascinating history and wild you bathe with your loved one from unj, youll never part.
adventure offers. The islands in general have a completely
different atmosphere from mainland towns making their ipan is the largest of the Elafiti islands with two little
way of life all the more special. ports, Suura (soojooraj) and ipanska luka, plus a few
tiny hamlets in the interior. A bus connects the ports, tak-
ing a trip through a fertile depression where the islanders
THE ELAFITI ISLANDS - successfully grow a variety of produce including grapes,
olives, figs and carob. Both settlements boast fascinating
KOLOEP, LOPUD AND IPAN old palaces and the ruins in the interior include the former
These tiny islands - the first two car-free - are fantastic palace of the Dubrovnik bishops. Suura faces Lopud, and
places to stay: you have all the sights of Dubrovnik on your this is a place for a swim and a coffee; while ipanska luka
doorstep but get to enjoy the peace and cleanliness of is- has a couple of excellent restaurants.
land life, and accommodation is inexpensive. The journey
by boat costs just a couple of Euro so you can travel every Despite their tiny scale and the fact that you can still find
day and explore if you want, just like on a bus, but a million your own little Robinson Crusoe beach, these three islands
times more refreshing! arent really off the beaten track - there are several hotels
used by tour operators and youll find a healthy number of
Koloep and Lopud are tiny - you can walk all around tourists, particularly on Lopud. These islands are great if you
them quite comfortably. Their settlements (Koloep has need a relaxing break away from it all, and dont expect wild
two, Lopud just one) show in miniaturised form the archi- nightlife or a heap of facilities laid on.

46 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com


Dubrovnik Surroundings
KORULA
K orula, birthplace of the renowned traveller, Marco Polo,
is a compact jewel of Venetian architecture surrounded by
the clear blue waters of the Peljeac channel.
Korula town, alongside Dubrovnik, is one of the Adriatic
towns which hits the news from time to time with reports
of rich, famous and notable types who buy up old town
properties for heart-stopping sums. There is good reason
for this the tiny, almost circular old town occupying a
rocky promontory is one of the most perfectly preserved
and most romantic historic towns youll ever see with many
opportunities for shutterbugs. It doesnt take long to wan-
der through the atmospheric streets, where youll come
across gothic details and balconies that make you feel like
youve entered a Slavic version of Romeo and Juliet. Pay at-
tention to the hidden architectural delights, such as relief
figures on the Cathedral of St. Mark and, as rumor has it,
the interestingly sculpted menu of an old brothel near the
main entrance. Visit the town museum and the local galler-
ies within a casual morning stroll.
Many of the historical sights and landmarks are just a stone
throw from the main square and youll be bedazzled by the
amount of history and culture that surrounds you. Take for
instance the Tower of Marco Polo, believed to be the house
in which the great world traveller and writer was born,
whilst there head up to the tower for some breathtaking
panoramic views of the island. There is also a Marco Polo
Museum which reflects on his life through seven vast and
deep scenes which bring to life his amazing adventures.
The Abbey Treasury of St. Mark is in the heart of the main-
square and features reliquaries, artworks, liturgical vest-
ments and manuscripts with some dating as far back as the
12th century. The Icon Gallery features artworks of Byzan-
tine paintings on wood and most of which were brought
across by island sailors from the 13th to 17th century. Ahoy
to the naval ancestors! The Revelin Tower with its descend-
ing steps is a majestic site in itself whilst the Maximilian
Vanka Gallery hosts his astute paintings and portraits for
which he is most known for. And thats just a snapshot of
Korula with more to do and see. All in all, its well worth a
few days stay and is a perfect place to recharge your bat-
teries.
One of the other most prominent features of the island is
its folk tradition which includes the Moreka, a dance with
swords, which you can witness during the summer months
(Mondays and Thursdays in July and August, Thursdays in
June and September, starting at 21:00), heralded by drum-
beats as a parade of citizens in historical costume passes
through prior to the performance.
With such material, Korula has a long tradition of tour-
ism and is one of the more commercialised of Croatias
Adriatic towns, so the town itself gets pretty busy during
high season. But this is a relatively large island, there are
plenty of other places to explore and get away from it all.
As with any island, the perfect way to explore is to rent a
scooter or bicycle from any of the tourist agencies in town.
Head towards the village of Lumbarda where youll find
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Dubrovnik Surroundings
picturesque vineyards. You must try the Grk wine, only LASTOVO
produced in the surrounding area, and said to have been Lastovo is not furthest away from coast - that honour goes
brought from ancient Greece after the fall of Troy. Wander to Vis - but it takes the longest to get here, over four hours.
the stone streets of the old village and feel miles and centu- Maybe thats why the island culture is so different and well
ries away from everything else. Other destinations for wine preserved. Like Vis, Lastovo was a military base until 1989,
connoisseurs are the villages of ara and Smokvica, these so access to the island was restricted. With not a great deal
two island gems also add to the agricultural pallet as they to do, the island became depopulated. But Nature has been
are known for the top quality white wine known as Poip, left pretty much undisturbed, so you could say its an un-
considered to be one of the most prestigious wines of the touched ecological paradise.
Croatian south.
Many people sense in Lastovo a spirit unlike anything else,
KORULA CITY MUSEUM a sense of the breath of ages. Lastovo town sits uphill in
QTrg Sv. Marka, tel. (+385-20) 71 14 20, www.gm- a basin facing away from the sea to escape the attentions
korcula.com. Open 10:00 - 14:00, Sun by prior arrange of pirates. The mellow stone of the houses basking in the
ment. Admission 20/8kn per person. warm sunlight is captivating. Walking in the towns streets,
KORULA TOURIST BOARD those with a sense for the antique and the eccentric will
QObala dr. F.Tumana 4, tel. (+385-20) 71 57 01, www. wonder at a culture so very detached from modern urban
visitkorcula.eu. Open 08:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sun life.
08:00 - 12:00. Lastovo is a town of chimneys. In times past, a sign of the
wealth of a household was the size and ornateness of ones
chimney, and many unusual examples still stand. Another
vital aspect of Lastovos heritage is the Poklad - the tradi-
tional pre-Lent carnival celebrating the islands deliverance
from Catalan pirates. An effigy of the Catalan messenger
takes centre stage, spectacularly released from a hilltop to
slide on a rope to the town centre with firecrackers explod-
ing at its feet. Humiliating indeed. At this time, as well as
during summertime festivals, you can see the islands folk
costume, where the men wear scarlet and black with em-
broidered braces and hats decked with colourful flowers.
With so little (except carnivals) to disturb them, fish adore
Lastovo, and you can be sure of an excellent meal here.
Lastovo has poor transport connections, few shops, and
there is little accommodation apart from one hotel and a
few families offering private rooms. But if youre ready and
able to explore, and happy to adapt to the treacle-slow pas-
sage of time here, this could well be the start of an endur-
ing love affair.
LASTOVO TOURIST BOARD
QPjevor 7, tel. (+385-20) 80 10 18, www.tz-lastovo.hr.
Open 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. June Open 08:00
-14:00, 16:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

MLJET
Mljet gets a growing share of tourists, but as one of the
more remote and less developed islands, with a limited fer-
ry service, it lacks the kind of mass tourism of much of the
Dalmatian coast and some other more accessible islands.
This isnt the place to come for late night bars, concerts or
discos. One might hope it never will be.
Be prepared to fall in love with nature all over again, for this
island has a stunning quality waiting for you to discover.
Croatias 8th largest island is approximately 3km wide
and 37km long making attractive to explore for a short or
Photo by Boris Kaan, Orebi Tourist Board Archives lengthier stop. It has an area of roughly 100 square km with

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Dubrovnik Surroundings

131km of coastline and many little niches and coves to What to See
discover, so youd be forgiven for wanting to stay. With five Mljet National Park (Nacionalni Park Mljet) Pristanite
distinct forest tree varieties, abundant fauna and lush veg- 2, Goveari, tel. (+385-20) 74 40 41, np-mljet@np-
etation, its easy to see why Mljet is called the Green Island. mljet.hr, www.np-mljet.hr. Established in 1960, the park
Mljet offers a panorama of coastline, cliffs, reefs and numer- is Mljets top attraction. The park, encompasses 54 square
ous islets as well as the rich topography of the hills that rise kilometres at the western end of the island, with an aston-
steeply above the sea and plummet back into deep valleys ishing interior and coastline beauty. Veliko Jezero and Malo
sheltering ancient stone villages. The submarine world in- Jezero (Big Lake and Small Lake), and the villages of Soline,
cludes quite an array of fish and several types of corals. With Babine Kue, Pomena, Polae and Goveari all lie within the
fantastic weather, sailing, recreational sports, swimming, park boundaries. Of interest, this park represents the first
scuba diving, hiking and bicycle paths are only a fraction institutionalised attempt to protect the native eco-system
of the pleasures that you can enjoy here. The western end in the Adriatic.
of Mljet has been protected as a National Park since 1960.
Benedictine Monastery on the islet of St Mary (Samo-
Getting there and around stan Sv Marija) This tiny island, in a lake on the island of
Two ferry types are available to/from Dubrovnik, a car Mljet, is at the islands cultural and spiritual heart.
ferry and a catamaran mostly provided by Jadrolinija fer-
Polae The village is named for the ruin of a significant
ries. Mljet is only 8km away from the peninsula of Peljeac,
Roman palace and fortifications - one tower is 20m high
18km from Korula and 30km from Dubrovnik. There are
- built between the 2nd and the 5th century. Second in
a number of harbour ports in Mljet. Polae is its largest
size to the Palace of Diocletian in Split, you cant miss it: The
and main port of call in the north, however, you can also
road to Pomena slips right between its high walls.
access the island from Sobra which is best used to reach
Maranovii and Babino Polje. Other harbours include Pom- Pomena Located on the western coast of Mljet in the
ena which has daily connections to Dubrovnik (watch out National Park, about 200 m from Malo Jezero. This village,
for reefs and shallow water), and Lokve or Gonoturska port built after World War II, has only about 50 inhabitants living
where you can throw anchor just before the entry canal among charming thick forests and working in agriculture,
toward the Big Lake. fishing and tourism. The bay of Pomena is perfect for small
yachts, which can pull up to the pier while you enjoy the
www.inyourpocket.com hotels amenities.

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Dubrovnik Surroundings

Photo by Marin Veraja, Narona Archaelogical Museum, Metkovi Tourist Board Archives

Goveari Settlement began here in the late 18th Century Proura This medieval village was used by Ragusan nobles
when two families of land workers and fishermen from who - a bit like yourself - were looking for relaxing geta-
Babino Polje were given permission to settle by the Ben- way. Perched on a hill over a Blato (an intermittent lake)
edictines to work as cattle-breeders (goveda means cattle and the sea, Proura has a 17th Century watch tower and
in Croatian). Located in the national park, 5km inland, this three beautiful churches: the Church of the Holy Trinity, the
ethnologically interesting site is a great place to be sur- Church of St Martin and the Church of St Rocco.
rounded by peace, serenity and lush vegetation.
Maranovii The 18th Century Baroque house of the Pe
Babine Kue This picturesque little fishing village is locat- family is in the middle of the town. The 19th Century par-
ed on the shores of the Veliko jezero just beneath Goveari. ish church of St Anton rests on the foundations of an older
It offers a splendid view of the islet of St Mary. There are a church and features Gothic architectural elements. In near-
number of private rentals here, too. by Korita, the ruined 14th Century Church of St Mary of
the Hill mixes Gothic and Renaissance elements, and dem-
Babino Polje The central and largest inhabited area with onstrates features typical of the islands churches. A roughly
around 350 people, Babino Polje is the administrative square plan with a deep porch extending to the front, and
centre of the island. Stretched along a ridge above a by- a picturesque belfry na preslicu (on a distaff, that is, the
pass road and a field (the name means Grandmas Field), belfry has a split where the bell hangs, the way a distaffs
Babino Polje is surrounded with pine woods, groves of old, end is cleft to hold wool). Some of the manor houses have
twisted olive trees and vineyards, and 514m Veliki Grad, the Renaissance-Baroque elements. The town has its own 17th
highest hill on the island. Century defence tower with loopholes for firing. Korita is
Odysseuss Cave (Odisejeva pilja) Technically that named for the stone troughs, common on the island, that
would be Calypsos cave; Odysseus, shipwrecked on his are used to capture rainwater.
way home from the Trojan War, only stayed with the nymph MLJET TOURIST BOARD
seven years, and most of the time he was pining for his wife Around the side of the cafe at the ferry pier.QSobra bb,
and his home. After walking along a path lined with rock
Sobra, tel. (+385-20) 74 60 25, www.mljet.hr. Open
walls and wildflowers, which takes you out above a deep 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. June Open 08:00 - 19:00,
grotto and the crashing waves, you may wonder why he Sun 08:00 - 13:00.
was in such a hurry to leave. You can pick your way down
into the cave; come back another day by boat to squeeze
into it through a 30m tunnel. Local fishermen use the grot- youtube.com/inyourpocket
to as a harbour.

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Dubrovnik Surroundings
METKOVI TOURIST BOARD
North of Dubrovnik QAnte Starevia 3, Metkovi, tel. (+385-20) 68 18 99,
www.tzmetkovic.hr. Open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat,
The Dubrovnik/Neretva County consists of both continen-
Sun.
tal areas and islands. North of Dubrovnik, you can enjoy the
natural beauty and peace of Trsteno which is home to the
oldest arboretum in the world, dating back to 1498. The PELJEAC PENINSULA
Peljeac peninsula, the second largest peninsula in Croatia,
The Peljeac peninsula is so tenuously connected with the
is famous for many reasons especially for those associ-
mainland that it has the unique character of an island. The
ated with the sense of taste and smell. Therefore, when in
first delight that awaits you is the gastronomic haven of
the area, make sure you dont miss out on the infamous
Mali Ston. The narrow lagoon dividing Peljeac from the
Peljeac oysters and wines amidst the intense beauty of the
mainland is rich in premium quality oysters, and the village
peninsula.
restaurants offer some of the best cuisine in the country.
Nearby, the town of Ston is encircled by 14th century stone
NERETVA walls, 5.5km long and once including forty towers, which
If you visit Dubrovnik in the spring, you may be surprised with the backdrop of the mountainous countryside look
to see ripe oranges lying on the ground everywhere you scarily like the Great Wall of China. These walls were built
walk. Orange trees are so common that the fruit is often by the Republic of Dubrovnik due to valuable salt pans
ignored, inducing a twinge of regret in visitors who have and the towns strategic position, and Ston is often called
to part with good money for them back home. Obviously, little Dubrovnik as the streets have the same layout and
the warm climate gives the people of the Dubrovnik region the same names. The historic salt pans still produce salt for
these southern fruits. But there is one more life-giver - the industrial purposes. If youd like to have an active holiday
River Neretva. with a difference, you can join in salt harvesting, board and
It starts its life as a brazen young thing, rushing green and victuals provided. Check out www.solanaston.hr.
impetuous under the famous stone bridge at Mostar, up- The finest vineyards in Croatia bask on Peljeacs spectacu-
river in Herzegovina. In Croatia, it spreads out open arms lar conical hills. This is the home of the indigenous Plavac
to meet the sea, creating a swampy region. Generations of Mali grape, and on certain south facing slopes near the vil-
backbreaking work mean that this area today is a fertile re- lage of Dinga the vines yield grapes of awesome quality.
gion sometimes called Croatias California. Dinga is an atom bomb of a wine: rich, dark and strong,
As you drive north to Metkovi, you can stop at roadside and was the first Croatian wine to gain protected geo-
stalls and pick up sacks of mandarins, local honey and spir- graphic origin (1961). Itll cost you about 10 a bottle, but
its. It is also sometimes called Croatias Venice, as the life of to enjoy the Peljeac experience to the full, we recommend
the people is closely tied up with boats, used for transport- you try it. Postup is another Peljeac wine often called
ing pretty much everything around here. Dingas baby brother, while Plavac is softer, more afford-
able and very quaffable. On Peljeac you can find wonder-
The region has its own types of wooden boat; a smaller ful stone villages, untouched by modern times. Coastal
kind called a trupa, and a larger one called a laa. Al- hamlets are backed by steep slopes, their shores fringed by
though these traditional boats largely died out, in recent pine. Peljeac is famous for pristine shingle beaches, and on
years an annual race (Maraton laa, August 13 ) which at- the southern side a bracing wind makes this a favorite spot
tracts competing teams from around the world looks set to for windsurfers, especially at Viganj. Orebi is the largest
revive the picturesque tradition - the boats have a curiously resort, its architecture reflecting its links with the Republic
flattish construction which is very attractive but definitely of Dubrovnik, and has fantastic stretches of shingle to the
renders their navigation a challenge! east of town. A ferry connects Orebi with Korula town,
More curious still is the water life of the valley. The tradi- and Trstenik to Polae on Mljet - ideal for island hopping.
tional dishes of the area are often centered around two The best thing about Peljeac is its unspoilt character. Take
aquatic inhabitants, the frog and the eel. Both are made time to slowly discover and drink in its delights - a week will
into a tomato casserole called brudet - you can try it in the hardly be long enough.
popular restaurant Villa Neretva at the town of Metkovi,
where accommodation, tours by boat and photo safaris OREBI TOURIST BOARD
are also offered. The area is also rich in bird life, particularly QZrinsko Frankopanska 2, Orebi, tel. (+385-20) 71 37
storks and coots, the latter being traditional hunting game. 18, www.visitorebic-croatia.com. Open 08:00 - 13:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. May Open 08:00 - 18:00. Sat 08:00 -
Near the town of Ploe you can see the Baina lakes from 14:00. Closed Sun. June Open 08:00 - 20:00.
the main road - a spectacular chain of seven interconnect-
ing freshwater lakes, plus one separate one. They are beau- STON TOURIST BOARD
tifully clean and have beaches suitable for swimming. It is QPeljeki put bb, Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 44 52, www.
hoped that the region will be proclaimed a nature park in ston.hr. Open 08:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.
the near future. June - September Open 08:00 - 19:00.

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Dubrovnik Surroundings
In this part of the garden, you can also see the oldest tree
SLANO in the arboretum - a palm almost 500 years old looking
Slano, a small town located between Trsteno and the remarkably healthy. The arboretum includes the original
Peljeac peninsula, is among the most beautiful jewels in 15th century garden laid out in renaissance style, with a
the crown of the Dubrovnik Riviera. Set back 2 kilometres geometric pattern of paths, a chapel, the fountain and aq-
from the open blue waters of the Adriatic in a bay of the ueduct. There is also a newer garden (early 20th century)
same name, Slano offers protection from the elements for featuring formal and modern sections, with features typi-
wayward sailors, while the numerous tree-lined pristine cal of the southern Adriatic, plus a historic olive grove and
beaches are ideal for landlubbers. The strategic impor- natural woodland. Trsteno suffered quite badly both from
tance of Slano is firmly entrenched in history, as the site shelling and from a forest fire which broke out in 2000, but
has been continuously inhabited since prehistoric times. Mother Nature has taken over and its clearly business as
Ancient Greek and Roman ruins dot the heavily forested usual. A walk amid the beautiful, tall trees offers welcome
hills and centuries-old olive groves of the picturesque bay. dappled shade and the chance to enjoy the harmony of
The Dubrovnik Republic annexed Slano in the 14th century man and nature.
and shortly thereafter it became the seat of the Republics
The village of Trsteno is a modest little settlement with a
Rector and a summer retreat for the wealthy and influential
fine church, St Vitus, and two huge 500 year old Asiatic
citizens of the powerful city-state. The Franciscan church of
plane trees. By the waterside just east of the gardens is a
St. Jerome, overlooking the bay, is one of the finest exam-
remarkable but dilapidated fort, and a tiny harbour where a
ples of 15th century ecclesiastical architecture in Dalmatia.
stream cascades down rocks into the sea. Magical.
If we take our cues from the great civilizations which have
South of Dubrovnik and following the coastal road you will
called the bay home since ancient times, Slano enjoys not
only some of the most breathtaking sites in Dalmatia, but is
also a perfect place for a sightseeing getaway. Along with South of Dubrovnik
its unmistakable charms and proximity to Dubrovnik, the
vineyards and seafood of Peljeac, and the Elaphiti Islands, find yourself in upa Dubrovaka, where there are a hand-
Slano is a must-see. ful of bays that have a promenade which passes through
small romantic places such as Srebreno and Mlini. If you
SLANO TOURIST BOARD continue further south, you will find yourself in a vortex of
QTrg Ruera Bokovia 1, Slano, tel. (+385-20) 87 12 36, history. The small town of Cavtat will enchant you with its
www.visit-slano.com. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, architecture, nature and charm. Historically known as Epi-
Sun. May Open 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. June daurum, it used to be a key part of Dubrovniks history and
Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00. development of the city, which the citizens of Cavtat built
respectively. From Cavtat to the border with Montenegro
TRSTENO stretches the Konavle municipality which was named af-
ter the Latin word canalis, referring to water channels that
If youre on the edge of your nerves and even a stay in Du- used to bring water from water-wells across Konavle Fields
brovnik brings no respite to your soul, its time to go green, to the ancient city of Epidaurum (present-day Cavtat).
get back to nature and indulge in a spot of tree hugging
at Trsteno. Its not only the terminally overworked who will
be delighted by this historic arboretum - of course, for gar- CAVTAT
deners and plant lovers its unmissable. The centerpiece is The approach to this little gem of a Mediterranean town is
a summer villa first built by Dubrovnik nobleman Ivan Ma- one of the most breathtaking things about it, as the cam-
rinov Gueti in 1494. Rather than investing his wealth into paniles of its churches poke their way into view above a
a sprawling and luxurious home, he built a more modest canopy of lush trees. But thats not all - this was the ancient
abode and surrounded it with gardens in which his spirit settlement of Epidaurum whose inhabitants populated
could soar. More than one hundred years later, his descend- Dubrovnik. A pleasant promenade fringes the rambling old
ant Nikola Vitov Gueti composed humanist philosophical streets, edged by cafs, a couple of good places to drink, a
texts here. selection of good restaurants and a rather lovely two small
Trsteno was thus created by a man with a vision and aided hotels. The promenade leads to the pleasant town beach,
by local sea captains who came home from their travels a park and a cemetery with an imposing mausoleum by
bearing gifts of exotic specimens. Over the centuries, many sculptor Ivan Metrovi as its centrepiece. A little way out
people have invested their energy and soul into these gar- of town are several large hotels which are good choices for
dens. A sense of gratitude to nature and water permeates families, with good shingle beaches and occasionally all-
- dont miss the baroque fountain at the foot of the stone inclusive packages. But we certainly wouldnt recommend
aqueduct. East of the villa lie a grape and olive press, once imprisoning yourself in a modern hotel complex when
shared by the local community. A little path leads from the you can indulge in the delights of a meal in a traditional
villa to the sea where a pavilion overlooking the water of- konoba in the town, and the rural Konavle region, famous
fers a view encapsulating the true meaning of this place for its traditional style gastronomy and folklore is on your
- botanical splendour on the lush, island-strewn Adriatic. doorstep.

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Photo by Andrija Carli, An olive

A highlight of a trip to Cavtat is the Bukovac house (Open tume (see our Where to eat pages). If you come in spring,
10.00 - 18.00. Admission 30kn), where one of the best- you can try dishes made with wild asparagus and see al-
loved Croatian artists, Vlaho Bukovac (1855-1922) grew up. mond orchards in bloom. The upland section borders with
As a child, he painted murals on the interior walls of the Herzegovina, for centuries the dividing line with the Otto-
lovely old villa, bringing them alive with colourful paintings man Empire. Its highest point is the Snjenica (snowy)
featuring semi-naive animal themes. Although subsequent peak, 1234m high. The village cemetery at Brotnice has
owners saw fit to paint over his works, they have been unusual gravestones (steci) of the Bogomil sect, featuring
restored with some success, and the delightful exhibition vivid primitive carvings and lettering in the ancient lan-
space upstairs features paintings and sketches surrounded guage of Bosnia. There are well-marked hiking trails, and
by original furniture from Bukovacs day. Bukovacs portraits organised trips include a hearty meal as part of the deal.
are especially personal and full of emotion. An exhibition The coastal part of Konavle is unusual for Croatia in that it
space on the ground floor is given over to the work of is characterised by limestone cliffs. At the village of Moii
young artists, and the shows feature contemporary works, there is a second century stone carving of the pagan god
a refreshing contrast with the antique mood of the rest of Mitreus, and scattered around are old houses with unusual
the house. Theres an idyllic garden at the back, and the conical chimneys. Molunat, the most southern coastal set-
whole experience is a rather uplifting one. tlement, is a quiet fishing village in a pretty cove.
TOURIST BOARD OF KONAVLE
QZidine 6, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 90 25, www.visit. SOKOL TOWER
cavtat-konavle.com. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 -
14:00. Closed Sun. May Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sun 08:00 Kids these days will say hey, this reminds me of a for-
- 14:00. June Open 08:00 - 20:00. tress in World of Warcraft, and they are not far off. Enter
an ancient fort located in Konavle and up on a 25 me-
ter high cliff, it dates back to 1420 and was most likely
KONAVLE used for military purposes. After long renovations, its
The Konavle region stretches from Cavtat to the border with open to the public and also maintains some archaeo-
Montenegro. The village of ilipi close to the airport is one logical items including Bronze Age weapons for the
of the cultural centres of Konavle, and on Sunday morn- feisty!QDunave, Konavle, www.citywallsdubrovnik.
ings you can witness the traditional songs and dances of hr. Open 10:00 - 16:00. May Open 10:00 - 17:00. Tick
Konavle and performers dressed in colourful folk costume. ets 50/35kn. June Open 09:00 - 18:00.
Konavle consists of a fertile valley plus upland and coastal
parts, all with stone villages. In the central valley, youll find
traditional rural restaurants where you can enjoy delicious
home grown food - locally reared meat and trout, some- instagram.com/croatiaiyp
times served by waiters and waitresses in traditional cos-

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Dubrovnik Surroundings
Mills on the river Ljuta THE SIVI SOKO VIEWPOINT
The protected landscape surrounding the Ljuta is home to Return home by bragging to friends some of the best pho-
a watermill and stamp system, which consists of eight flour tos you had taken around Dubrovnik. Pick up your cam-
mills, two oil mills, and three stamp mills. Part of this system, era and GO GO GO! Jump onto the old road, the so called
called the lower mills, was built after 1550, when Konvale Jadranska magistrala towards the ilipi Airport and exit at
came to be under the control of the Republic of Dubrovnik. the town called Zvekovica, turning left onto a local road.
The lower mills have been preserved until today. The mills After 1km, turn left and head up the Snjenica Hill until
were built on a canal network, while some of them were you see the sign for Velji Do to the left. This is your last turn
driven by three aqueducts. Most of the mills were on the before the main post. A narrow path will then take you to
western bank of the river, apart from the ivanovi stamp the lookout itself from which you will have breathtaking
mill which was on the eastern bank. The mill system was views of Dubrovnik, Konavle, Cavtat and the neighboring
extremely important for the economy of Konavle and the islands. From here it is all yours; capture the photo and
Dubrovnik Republic as a whole. those special moments!

UPA DUBROVAKA
The road south from Dubrovnik snakes alongside a broad
bay dotted with some of the loveliest beaches to be found
on the Mediterranean.Their white pebbles are probably the
reason why the village of Srebreno was given its name,
which means Silver. The water here is that perfect aqua-
marine colour so beloved of the holiday brochures. The
town of Mlini is named after the water mills that you can
still see here, driven by streams that race down the moun-
tainside and emerge right on the beach, bringing the sea
to a temperature that could be named refreshing or freez-
ing depending on the hardiness of the swimmer in ques-
tion.
These resorts are not fashionable, one of the reasons be-
ing that this part of the coast was occupied by the Yugo-
slav army during the early 90s. The village of Kupari is all
Konavle Tourist Board Archives but devastated, as it was a military base. Clearly a dismal
situation for the local people, with a once thriving industry
lying dormant and some fine old buildings on the water-
AGRITOURISM front empty and pockmarked by bullets, but renovation
AGROTURIZAM LAPTALO is presently going on and things will get better. We highly
Not far from Dubrovnik in a village named Gromaa recommend these resorts for the following reasons. The
youll find this family smallholding. Throughout the bathing is superb (tingly refreshing, mmm!) There is plenty
year, if you call ahead, you can visit and enjoy home- of excellent accommodation in private apartments, and
made dishes cooked in the traditional way, and sample prices are more than reasonable. With Dubrovnik just 20
the familys liqueurs, wines and olive oil. Try the local minutes away by bus, this is a great place to stay if youre
sweet specialities arancine (orange), kontonjata on a budget and appreciate a quieter environment and
(quince) and mantala (grape, orange, nuts and spic- clean beaches.
es).QGromaa 56, Zaton, tel. (+385-20) 88 11 86/ Srebreno is the centre of this little region, and here youll
(+385-) 099 218 36 12, 098 72 51 02, www. find necessities such as the tourist information centre,
laptalo-agro.hr. Open by prior arrangement. banks, the post office and a large supermarket. Mlinis wa-
PILNKW terfront is possibly the most unusual weve ever seen: a pic-
KONOBA VINICA - MONKOVI FAMILY turesque village aspect is created by a stream, a watermill
Excellent option in the Konavle region south of Cavtat. and a massive plane tree dating back to 1752 right on the
If you ask nicely, the Monkovi family who run the beach. Nearby Plat has a pleasant hotel complex with little
place may show you their collection of folk costumes villas nestled in leafy shade.
as you digest your home made prosciutto, cheese, UPA DUBROVAKA TOURIST BOARD
roast meat, trout and garden salad. A drop of home Qetalite Dr.F.Tumana 7, Srebreno, Mlini, tel. (+385-
made rakija would go down a treat tooQPridvorje, 20) 48 62 54, www.dubrovnik-riviera.hr. Open 07:00
Ljuta, tel. (+385-20) 79 12 44/(+385-) 099 215 24 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. May Open 07:00 - 15:00, Sat
59, www.konobavinica.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00. 8:00 - 12:00. From June Open 7:00 - 20:00, Sat and Sun
PA6LBW 08:00 - 12:00.

54 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com


Leisure

Photo by I. Trojanovi, Orebi Tourist Board Archives

Dubrovnik is far from being just a walk-round museum of ADVENTURE DALMATIA


cultural treasures and churches. It also stands in the middle Sea kayaking around Dubrovnik, free climbing in the Ko-
of a spectacularly unspoiled natural landscape, and is ide- navle. More information on contacts below.QPile bay,
ally suited to an active holiday of paddling, peddling and tel. (+385-) 091 566 59 42/(+385-) 091 182 89 95, www.
generally pottering around. adventuredalmatia.com. Open 08:00 - 22:00.
The easiest way to stretch your legs is to embark on a mis-
sion to conquer Mount Sr, the stark 412m-high summit BLUE PLANET
that watches over Dubrovnik to the north. Otherwise catch Scuba diving, for info out of season call 091 899 09
a ferry to an offshore island such as Lopud, ipan or Mljet, 73.QF3, Masarykov put 20 (Hotel Dubrovnik Palace),
where numerous walking trails forge through untouched tel. (+385-) 091 899 09 73, www.blueplanet-diving.
Mediterranean landscapes. com. Open 09:00 - 19:00 and by prior arrangement.
Most popular of the organized activities in the Dubrovnik
region is sea kayaking, with several local agencies offering DIVING CLUB DUBROVNIK
half- or full-day paddles focusing on the nearby islands of Scuba diving, start on Babin Kuk facing the Gru harbour.
Lokrum, Koloep and Lopud. QG/H1, Solitudo Bay, tel. (+385-20) 43 57 37/(+385-)
Cycling is beginning to take off in the Konavle, the beauti- 098 42 79 63, www.du-diver.hr. Open by prior arrange
fully rustic coastal strip that runs southeast from Dubrovnik ment.
to the Montenegrin border. The Cavtat tourist office pub-
lishes a series of free mountain biking maps to the region, KOJAN KORAL
and guided bike tours can be booked at travel agents in Two hours of horse riding in the Konvale countryside,
both Dubrovnik and Cavtat. which even a total beginner can enjoy: helmets, insurance,
With the chance to go scuba diving or sailing in coastal and instructions are provided. They also offer ATV Quad
waters near Dubrovnik or Mljet, or try out free climbing or Safaris across four different off-road terrains of the Konavle
horse riding in the Konavle, theres no shortage of variety. mainland. Price 600-700kn for ATV-quad safari and 650kn
horseback riding (including the transport from/to Kojan
Koral).QPopovii, Kokoti 3, Gruda, tel. (+385-) 099 300
ADRENALINE 50 01, www.kojankoral.com. Open 08:00 - 12:00 and by
ABYSS - DIVING & WATER-SPORT CENTRE prior arrangement.
Diving center, diving school, water sports (jet ski, water-
ski, wakeboard, stand up paddle, snorkeling, parasailing).
QG2, Ive Dulia 142 (Hotel Dubrovnik President facebook.com/
beach), tel. (+385-) 099 256 12 56/(+385-) 099 445 56
95, www.dubrovnikdiving.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00 and dubrovnikinyourpocket
by prior arrangement. A
facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Spring 2017 55
Leisure
EXCURSIONS
DUBROVNIK ADVENTURES
A top tour operator company offering an assortment of
great escapes from one day and on as they promote ac-
tive, eco and adventure tourism. Choose from country
wine tours, cycling tours, island hopping on a bike, ex-
cursions, hiking and multi-sport tours just to name a few.
Top notch tour guides combine history and humour fused
with food and beverages in ready-made packages that
will leave you with lasting memories of Dubrovnik and its
natural surroundings.Qtel. (+385-) 099 667 77 00, www.
dubrovnikadventures.com. Open 08:00 - 22:00. A
DUBROVNIK BOAT EXCURSIONS
Visiting 3 islands is the ideal way to escape the hustle and
bustle of Dubrovnik and in getting to know the charm of
the Elaphite islands all in one day. With the boat depart-
ing at 10am and returning at 6pm, guests will visit the
islands of Lopud, ipan and Koloep; enjoying the natural
beauty of the islands, swimming in one of the most beau-
tiful beaches and dining to homemade food with (meat,
fish and vegetarian on the menu), not to mention some
fine local wine tasting. The tour is ideal for families, larger
groups, and for individuals who are happy to meet new
people and customs. The fleet consists of 4 old timer boats
that are fully equipped (umbrellas, chairs, music, toilets
and more), and very friendly and attentive staff who will
ensure that your day passes in the best possible fashion.
The price of 250kuna per person includes transportation
from your hotel or place of stay to the ship docking area
and back.QVrh sela 9, Veliki Zaton, tel. (+385-) 098 178
71 77, www.dubrovnikboatexcursions.com. Open by
prior arrangement.
DUBROVNIK BOATS
Seeking a trip or tour, but do not wish to be held up by
other tourists or deadlines. Would you like to go on a trip
tailored to your needs and wishes? Look no further, for pri-
vate or specifically prepared adventures or trips that meet
your every standard and expectation, with choice of full-
featured transport (boat, sailing boat, catamaran, speed
boat or yacht), simply contact Nika and his team. They
organise transport, crew, offer personal recommendations
on what to visit, where to eat, relax and most importantly
how better to experience and learn about Dubrovnik and
its surroundings. Your entire experience is professionally
looked after by the staff at Dubrovnik Boats, all you need
is to book, sit back and enjoy.QBartola Kaia 13, tel.
(+385-) 098 75 78 90, www.dubrovnikboats.com. Open
by prior arrangement.

TENNIS
DUBROVNIK TENNIS CLUB
QH2, etalite kralja Zvonimira 7, tel. (+385-20) 43
73 55. Open 07:00 - 21:00. From May Open 07:00 -
22:00. 80kn/h during the day, after the lights are on
youll pay 100kn/h.

56 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com


Shopping
HERITAGE GALLERY
ACCESSORIES A small store exquisitely decorated in the spirit of the old
ART GODEN Dubrovnik salon and inspired by rich local and Croatian
A classy and sophisticated Croatian accessories brand. culture. It has different goods to offer and you can choose
Your chance to take back home exquisite silk ties and from the wide range of art objects, antiquities and useful
scarves designed with Dubrovnik historical or marine items dedicated to Croatian history, the ancient times right
motifs or even the same leather bag that we heard Roger through to the present.For lovers of antiques and vintage
Moore bought for his wife during the Dubrovnik Sum- items, there is a collection of antique oil lamps and small
mer Festival! Also at Radisson Blue Resort&Spa, Valamar household items.QL2, Petra Kreimira IV 7, tel. (+385-)
Lacroma Resort, Rixos Libertas Dubrovnik Hotel, Valamar 098 20 91 50, www.heritagegallery.eu. Open 10:00 -
Dubrovnik President, Kompas and Sheraton.QK3, Mari 14:00, 17:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. A
jana Blaia 2 (Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik), tel. (+385-)
098 42 75 96, www.artgoden.com. Open 09:00 - 12:00, HOMA GALLERY
18:00 - 21:00. A A colorful richness of works made by Dubrovnik painter
Jadranka Mihajlovi Muniti just may impress and caress
BORZA GRUPA your artistic taste buds. The main motif of her paintings
The Dubrovnik established Borza Grupa Ltd. offers a wide is the city of Dubrovnik as its beauty is her endless inspi-
range of designer bags, shoes, watches, sunglasses and ration.QC2, Bokovieva 3, tel. (+385-) 099 834 05 73.
other accessories by top designers, such as Braccialini, Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. N
M Missoni, Armani and many more.QD3, Pred dvorom
2, tel. (+385-20) 35 89 84, www.borzagrupa.hr. Open KLARISA GALLERY
09:00 - 20:00. From June Open 09:00 - 24:00. A Hidden on the first floor of the old Dubrovnik house and
located in the true Dubrovnik saloa, this charming gallery
CROATA is filled with paintings by artists from all parts of Croatia,
Croatia, home to the cravat, and home too to Croata, a and in particular Dubrovnik. In addition, there are a great
store in which you will find a rich array of ties, scarves, and number of sculptures and jewelry as made by young Croa-
more, all made from the finest of silks. Croata boasts sev- tian fashion designers.QC2, Antuninska 1, tel. (+385-)
eral entirely unique designs so gifts from here can be that 099 243 59 44. Open 12:00 - 21:00. A
much more special. Croatas shops in Dubrovnik and Split
also contain a Shop Museum, a display intended to show- ROMANA ATELIER
case local heritage.QD3, Pred dvorom 2, tel. (+385-20) Colourful abstract pieces featuring Dubrovnik motifs.
64 10 66, www.croata.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. A QC3, Marojice Kaboge bb, tel. (+385-) 091 522 98
98/(+385-) 091 501 33 18, www.romana-milutin.com.
Open 11:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 19:00. From June Open 10:00
ANTIQUES - 15:00, 17:00 - 22:00. A
ANTIQUES TEZORO
TALIR
Take home a little reminder of renaissance Dubrovnik -
Exhibitions and works by famous and lesser known Croa-
jewellery, paintings, artworks, silverware...QC2, Izmeu
tian artists for sale.QB2, ubranovieva 7, tel. (+385-20)
Polaa 13, tel. (+385-20) 32 35 23, www.moje-tezoro.
32 32 93. Open 10:00 - 19:00. From May Open 10:00
hr. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.
- 22:00. A
Closed Sun. A
WORKSHOP BE CRAFT
ART GALLERIES This workshop oozesss craft with products made of glass,
stone and ceramics depicting sea designs and images of
AR BASTION the Mediterranean and Dubrovnik. The store is located
A rich offer of unique and authentic souvenirs such as close to the Old Town and you can even get items custom
items made of silk and ceramics, as well as objects with designed.QL2, Put Petra Kreimira IV 31, tel. (+385-20)
Konavle embroidery.QC2, Mrtvo zvono 8, Bastion 31 26 46, www.becraft.eu. Open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed
sv.Petra, tel. (+385-20) 32 34 94/(+385) 091 201 19 99, Sat, Sun. A
www.antoniaruskovic.com. Open 08:00-18:30. From
May Open 07:00 - 18:30. A
CHIC & CHEERFUL
ARTUR CVIJET BY KIKE
A fantastic selection of high quality local and Croatian art. For a beautiful flower arrangement for any occasion, from
They also have art workshops during whole year so if you weddings to holiday celebrations, this chic flower shop
are interested you know what to do...QB3, Od Domina will help you show your loved ones you care with a beau-
2, tel. (+385-20) 32 37 73/(+385-) 098 28 53 98, www. tiful gift. The tastefully decorated shop has tons of bou-
arturgallery.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00. A quets and holiday decorations to choose from that will suit

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Spring 2017 57


Shopping
any taste.QG2, Miljenka Bratoa 19, tel. (+385-20) 31 10 KRA
32, www.cvijetbykike.com. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed The confectionary company Croatians have known and
Sun, April Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00. Closed loved for years. Try Bajadera chocolate and hazelnut
Sun. From May Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A sweets, or a bag of Kraotice biscuits.QC2, Zamanjina
2, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 49, www.kras.hr. Open 08:00
LIFE ACCORDING TO KAWA - 20:00. May Open 08:00 - 21:00. June Open 08:00 -
Life According to Kawa is a concept unlike any other in 22:00. A
Dubrovnik. Set in a renovated garage, the layout is more
like a cutting-edge flat than a store. They offer exclusive OLEOTEKA UJE
artisan products and limited edition designs by Croatias HmmmThe first Croatian oil shop that offers a wide
most creative minds - - from t-shirts, handbags and ceram- range of Croatian olive oils from Istria, the island of Bra
ics to craft beer and wine. Also, its one of the only places and Zadar, whilst also offering an array of Mediterranean
in town where you can get great hand-roasted coffee to spices and dry fruits. Good nibbles!QC2, Od pua 2, tel.
go!QHvarska 2, tel. (+385 - ) 099 668 0145, www.kawa. (+385-20) 32 48 65, www.uje.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00.
life. Open 12:00 - 20:00. May Open 09:00 - 21:00. June Open 09:00 - 22:00. A
TURQWISE KAR WINERY
Did you know? The word turquoise comes from the name Ahoy, Mateys! This unique wine and souvenir shop is lo-
of a colour the French gave to a mineral from Turkey. The cated in an old shipyard in the citys stunning harbour.
Dubrovnik Republic was responsible for introducing this The small family-run business started selling its home-
colour to Europe. Products offered from this store are de- made Lekri wines four years ago. The grapes are grown
signed using this soothing colour. They offer unique plexi and picked in their vineyards on Peljeac and brought to
rings, each topped with a unique and modern shape, as the winery in Dubrovnik where the superb Plavac mali, a
well as graphic design modern art posters and photos, supreme dry red wine and Rukatac, a quality dry white
which represent the sea.QB2, Ulica Getaldieva 3, tel. wine are produced. The Krile family also makes liqueurs
(+385-) 095 905 42 40, www.turqwise.com. Open 09:00 with a diverse assortment of flavors- careb, cherry, lemon
- 23:00. J and many more. The souvenirs are all knickknacks made
by local Dubrovnik artists. This extraordinary wine tasting
CIGAR SHOP experience is not to be missed!QH2, Lapadska obala
17, tel. (+385-) 098 78 77 05, www.lekri.eu. From May
LA CASA DEL HABANO Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 22:00.
Wide selection of cigars from Cuba and Dominican Re-
public.QC3, Od Pua 1, tel. (+385-) 091 484 91 62,
www.camelot.hr. Open 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. From DESIGNER CLOTHING
June Open 12:00 - 24:00. A MARIA
If you forgot to pack your fancy designer frocks, Stella Mc-
DELICATESSEN Cartney shoes, or Celine handbag, then Maria is the place
to stock up on replacements. Gorgeous and expensive in
DUBROVAKA KUA equal measure, its the kind of shop that makes you feel
A treasure trove of local culture ready to take home: from glamorous just by looking through the window.QD2, Sv.
artworks to postcards, cosmetics, sweets, wines and spir- Dominika bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 13 30, www.mariastore.
its, all local or Croatian.QD2, Sv.Dominika bb, tel. (+385- hr. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
20) 32 20 92. Open 09:00 - 20:00. May Open 09:00 - May and June Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. A
21:00. June Open 09:00 - 22:00. A
MODNI KANTUN
GLIGORA WINE & CHEESE SHOP A little store in a street next to the Sponza palace, packed
Situated in the citys harbour, Gru, this shop offers a large with unusual accessories, clothes and jewellery. Most
selection of cheeses, wines, olive oils and jams. The vari- items are by famous Croatian fashion designers, so its a
ous delicious cheeses are produced by the Gligora family little pricey but definitely unique and stylish.QD2, Zlatar
in the town Kolan, located in the heart of the island Pag. ska 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 12 41. Open 09:00 - 21:00. A
The Gligora family has won numerous awards, includ-
ing the World Cheese Award, for its Dinarski sir, mixed XD XENIA DESIGN
cheese made from cow and sheeps milk. Other well- Designer who make custom clothing suited to your size
known cheeses they produce include, Kozlar made from and personality.QG4, Liechtensteinov put 3 (Rixos
goats milk and Paki sir, cheese from sheeps milk.QI2, Libertas Dubrovnik Hotel), tel. (+385-) 091 442 11 17/
Obala Stjepana Radia 13, tel. (+385-20) 32 41 00, www. (+385-20) 33 11 75, www.xenia-design.hr. Open 09:00
gligora.com/gdje-kupiti-sireve/trgovine/gligora- - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. From June Open
trgovina-dubrovnik. Open: 07:00 - 18:00, Sun 07:00 - 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00, Sun 9:00 - 12:00. AG
13:00. AGB

58 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com


Shopping
JEWELLERY
CLARA STONES
Handmade unique pieces of jewelry made from carefully
chosen Adriatic red corals, pearls, semiprecious and pre-
cious stones, which may leave some women breathless.
The uniqueness of this store is its presentation depart-
ment which shows how a coral branch is worked on and
the different phases of its lifecycle.QC2, Naljekovieva
8, tel. (+385-20) 32 17 06, www.clarastones.com. Open
09:30 - 20:00. JA
DUBROVNIK TREASURES
Dubrovnik Treasures offers a large selection of high-
quality jewellery for a great price. Along with authentic
and traditional Croatian jewellery, they also have many
pieces made with a unique or modern design. Each piece
of jewellery is handmade in Dubrovnik by local designers,
using a combination of Adriatic coral, freshwater pearls, as
well as semi precious stones with sterling silver or vermeil.
Also at Bokovieva 2 (C-2).QB2, Celestina Medovia 2,
tel. (+385-20) 32 10 98, www.dubrovniktreasures.com.
Open 09:00 - 21:00. A
KRIEK
This family-run chain of goldsmiths was established in
1935. They have an extensive collection of modern jewel-
lery created in precious metals, coral and pearl, and a wide
selection of wedding rings.QC2, Bokovieva 2, tel.
(+385-20) 32 20 27, www.krizek.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00,
Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. From June Open 09:00 -
21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. A IVO BIOINA - DECORATIVE SCULPTORS WORK-
SHOP
A small sculptors workshop with fascinating statues, fig-
SOUVENIRS ures, holy crosses, bowls, Croatian cross patterns, the Du-
BABOON brovnik coat of arms and more. See how this exceptional
Handmade jewellery, paper flowers and original gifts. combination of stone from Bra is carved in Dubrovnik
QI2, Dr. Vladka Maeka 30, tel. (+385-20) 33 17 50/ motifs. Truly original!QD2, Sv. Dominika bb, tel. (+385-)
(+385-) 098 85 72 79. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, 091 536 40 56. Open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JN
Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. W
MEDUSA
DEA PRO Wide-ranging souvenir shop that stocks more than just
Dea is an NGO created during the Homeland War to give the predictable tourist-trap nonsense that nobody actu-
support to women and families affected by the conflict of ally wants. Expect a solid choice of authentic Croatian
the 1990s. The organizations main goal is to build a strong gifts including olive oils, brandies, and sponges from
and sustainable society by helping to empower marginal- the sponge-fishing island of Krapanj.QB/C2, Prijeko 18,
ized women. Dea Pro, located just outside the Ploe gate, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 04/(+385-) 098 175 17 41, www.
sells authentic souvenirs, local delicacies and handicrafts. medusa.hr. Open 09:00 - 22:00. A
QL-2, Frane Supila 8. Open 10.00 - 16.00. May, June
09.00 - 18.00. A PALMA
DUTY FREE SHOP Unique ornaments made from palm wood, prices from
One of the perks of travelling is being able to buy duty 100kn.QC3, City Market, Gundulieva poljana, tel.
free. The Dubrovnik Duty Free Shop offers the expected (+385-) 091 553 96 08/(+385-) 091 514 20 18. Open
range of products you see at similar stores, the exception 09:00 - 16:00.
here is the traditional Croatian products and gift packages
which will exemplify your stay in our grand city. You wont TILDA
have to rush as the shop opens 1.5 hours prior to the first Original Konavle handicrafts: slippers, jewellery, greet-
international flight of the day and closes 1 hour after the ings cards and more.QD2, Zlatarska 1, tel. (+385-20) 32
last designated flight.QDubrovnik Airport, ilipi, Ko 15 54, www.tildadubrovnik.com. Open 10:00 - 17:00.
navle. Closed Sun. From May Open 09:00 - 20:00. A

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Spring 2017 59


Hotels
VILLA ORSULA DUBROVNIKQL2, Frana Supila 14,
SYMBOL KEY tel. (+385-20) 44 05 88, www.adriaticluxuryhotels.com.
13Total rooms. PAFLGKDCW hhhh
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted

O Casino H Conference facilities


4 STARS
HOTEL KOMPAS DUBROVNIK
T Child-friendly U Facilities for the disabled QF2, Kardinala Stepinca 21, tel. (+385-20) 29 90 00,
F Fitness centre L Guarded parking fax (+385-20) 30 03 10, www.adriaticluxuryhotels.com.
173 Total rooms Prices are available upon request.
R LAN connection 6 Pet-friendly PHAUFLGBKDCW hhhh
K Restaurant J Old town location HOTEL STARI GRADQB2, Od Sigurate 4, tel. (+385-
20) 32 22 44, www.hotelstarigrad.com. 8Total rooms.
D Sauna C Swimming pool PZJA6GBKW hhhh
I Fireplace W Wifi LAPADQH2, Lapadska obala 37, tel. (+385-20) 45 55
55, www.hotel-lapad.hr. 163 Total rooms. PHA
B Outside seating
ULGBKCW hhhh

5 STARS UVALAQG3, Masarykov put 6, tel. (+385-20) 43 36 08,


www.hotelimaestral.com. 51 Total rooms. PHA
GRAND VILLA ARGENTINAQL2, Frana Supila 14, IFLGBKDCW hhhh
tel. (+385-20) 44 05 55, www.adriaticluxuryhotels.com.
131 Total rooms. PHAUFLGBKD VALAMAR ARGOSYQF1, Iva Dulia 140, tel. (+385-
CW hhhhh 20) 44 61 00, www.valamar.com. 308 Total rooms.
PHAUFEGBKDCW hhhh
HILTON IMPERIAL DUBROVNIKQK3, Marijana
Blaia 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 03 20, www.dubrovnik. VALAMAR LACROMA DUBROVNIKQF2, Iva
hilton.com. 147 Total rooms. PTJHA6 Dulia 34, tel. (+385-20) 44 91 00, www.valamar.com.
UFLGBKDCW hhhhh 401 Total rooms. PHAUFGKDCW
hhhh
HOTEL BELLEVUE DUBROVNIKQJ4, Pera ingrije
7, tel. (+385-20) 33 00 00, www.adriaticluxuryhotels.
com. 91Total rooms. PHAUFLGBKD
3 STARS
CW hhhhh AQUARIUS DUBROVNIKQG/H2, Mata Vodopia 4a,
tel. (+385-20) 45 61 11, www.hotel-aquarius.net. 24To
HOTEL DUBROVNIK PALACEQF3, Masarykov put tal rooms. PALGBKCW hhh
20, tel. (+385-20) 43 00 00, www.adriaticluxuryhotels.
com. 308 Total rooms. PHAUFLEGB BERKELEY HOTEL & DAY SPAQJ2, Andrije Hebran
KDCW hhhhh ga 116a, tel. (+385-20) 49 41 60, www.berkeleyhotel.hr.
24Total rooms. PALGKCW hhh
IMPORTANNE HOTELS & RESORTQF2, Kar
dinala Stepinca 31, tel. (+385-20) 44 01 00, www. KOMODORQG3, Masarykov put 5, tel. (+385-20)
importanneresort.com. 290Total rooms. PZHA 43 35 00, www.hotelimaestral.com. 63 Total rooms.
UFLGBKDCW hhhhh PHALEBKCW hhh
KAZBEKQH2, Lapadska obala 25, tel. (+385-20) 36 LEROQI3, Iva Vojnovia 14, tel. (+385-20) 34
29 00, www.kazbekdubrovnik.com. 13 Total rooms. 13 33, www.hotel-lero.hr. 159 rooms (150 dou
PZHA6LGKDCW hhhhh bles 90 - 156, 9 apartments 138 - 248).
PHA6UFLGBKDCW hhh
RIXOS LIBERTAS DUBROVNIKQG4, Liechten
steinov put 3, tel. (+385-20) 20 00 00, www.rixos.com. PETKAQI2, Obala Stjepana Radia 38, Gru, tel.
254 Total rooms. PZTHAUFLGBK (+385-20) 41 05 00, www.hotelpetka.hr. 104 rooms
DCW hhhhh (8 singles 84 - 100, 96 doubles 110 - 140).
PHARLGBKW hhh
THE PUCI PALACE
QC3, Od Pua 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 62 22, fax (+385-20) TIRENA HOTELQF2, Iva Dulia 36, tel. (+385-20) 44
32 62 23, www.thepucicpalace.com. 19 Total rooms. 51 00, www.valamar.com/hr/hoteli-dubrovnik/tirena-
PZTJAR6GBKW hhhhh hotel. 208 Total rooms. PHAGBK CW
hhh
VALAMAR DUBROVNIK PRESIDENTQF1, Iva
Dulia 142, tel. (+385-20) 44 11 00, www.valamar.com. VALAMAR CLUB DUBROVNIKQF2, Iva Dulia 38,
292 Total rooms. PHAUFGBKDCW tel. (+385-20) 44 71 00, www.valamar.com. 338 Total
hhhhh rooms. PTA6UGBKCW hhh

60 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com


Hotels
VISQG3, Masarykov put 4, tel. (+385-20) 43 35
55, www.hotelimaestral.com. 142 Total rooms.
PALEGBKW hhh

2 STARS
ADRIATICQG3, Masarykov put 9, tel. (+385-20) 43 35
20, www.hotelimaestral.com. 107Total rooms. PA
FLEGBKW hh

HOSTELS
DUBROVNIK YOUTH HOSTELQI3, Vinka Sagres
tana 3 (Bana Josipa Jelaia 15-17), tel. (+385-20) 42 32
41, www.hfhs.hr. ARGBKW
HOSTEL 365 FOR UQI2, Vukovarska 14, tel. (+385-
20) 64 23 21, www.365foru.com/.
VILA MICIKAQG/H2, Mata Vodopia 10, tel. (+385-
20) 43 73 32, www.vilamicika.hr. 8 Total rooms.
PA6LW

ISLANDS
BON REPOSQDubrovaka cesta 19, Korula, tel.
(+385-20) 72 68 00, www.korcula-hotels.com. 150Total
rooms. ALKCW hhh
HOTEL GLAVOVIQObala Ivana Kuljevana 15,
Lopud, tel. (+385-20) 75 93 59, www.hotel-glavovic.hr.
12Total rooms. PABKW hhh
HOTEL KORULA DE LA VILLEQObala Franje
Tumana 4, Korula, tel. (+385-20) 72 69 00, www.
korcula-hotels.com. 22 Total rooms. PA6B
KW hhhh
HOTEL ODISEJ MLJETQPomena bb, Mljet, tel.
(+385-20) 36 21 11, www.adriaticluxuryhotels.com.
157 Total rooms. PTA6FGB KDCW
hhh

OUT OF TOWN
HOTEL CROATIA CAVTATQFrankopanska 10, Cavtat,
tel. (+385-20) 47 55 55, www.adriaticluxuryhotels.com.
487 Total rooms. PHAUFLGBKD
CW hhhhh
HOTEL OSTREAQMali Ston bb, tel. (+385-20) 75 45
55, www.ostrea.hr. 14 Total rooms. PA6GB
KW hhh
HOTEL SUPETAR CAVTATQObala Ante
Starevia 27, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 98 33, www.
adriaticluxuryhotels.com. 28 Total rooms. PJA
FLGBKDCW hhh
SUNGARDENS DUBROVNIKQNa moru 1, Oraac,
tel. (+385-20) 36 15 00, www.sungardensdubrovnik.
com. 408 Total rooms. PZTHAUFLG
KDCW hhhhh

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Spring 2017 61


Street register
A. Barca H-2/3 Brsalje A-2 G. Rajevia I-2/3 Izmeu polaa C-2
A. Bokovi J-2/3 Brseinska I-2 Garite B-2 Izvijaica A-1
A. Hallera I-2 Bunieva poljana C-3 Getaldieva B-2 J. Berse H-2
A. Hebranga H-1/I-2/J-2 Bua D-1 Gorica Sv. Vlaha H/I-3 J. Pupaia H-2
A. Kazali H-2 Cavtatska K-2 Gornji kono I/J/K-2 Jakljanska H-1
A. Mihanovia J-2 Celestina Medovia B-2 Gradac J-3 Janjinska H-2
A. enoe H-2 Crijevieva C-4 Gradieva D-4 Josipa Kosora I-3
A.G. Matoa I-2 Cvijete Zuzori C-3 Grbava C-4 Kantafig G-1
A.T. Mimare K-2 ubranovieva B-2 Grebenska H-2 Kardinala Stepinca F-2
Androvieva C-4 ilipska I-2 Grudska K-2 Kaznaieva C-3
Ante Starevia I-2 ira Caria G-2 Gruka obala H-1 Klievska G-2
Antuninska C-2 D. Pulia A-1 Gundulieva poljana C/D-3 Kneza Domagoja H-2
Aquarium E-3 Dalmatinska H-2 Hanibala Lucia C-1 Kneza Branimira I-2
Arhiv D-2 Dante Alighieria J-3 Hladnica H-3 Kneza Damjana Jude E-3
Asimon E-1 Dinka Ranjine C-3 Hliina B-3 Kneza Hrvaa C-4
B. Buia L-2 Dolska H-1 Hodiljska I-2 Kneev dvor D-3
Bernarda Shawa K-2 Dr. A. ercera H-2 Hvarska E-1 Koloepska L-2
Babin Kuk G-2 Dr. V. Maeka I-2 I. Matijaevia J-2 Komajska H-2
Bandureva D-4 Draasta K-2 I. Raia L-2 Komolaka G-1
Banjska I-3 Dropeva C-2 I. Vojnovia H-2, I-3 Konavoska L-2
Batahovina G-1 Dravna cesta D-8 Ilije Sarake D-4 Korulanska I-3
Batala H/I-2 Dubravkina G-2 Imotska I-1 Koritska H-1
Biokovska G-2 Dunavska G-2/3 Ispod Minete B-1 Kotorska I-3
Bokar A-3 Damija C-3 Ispod mira D-4 Kovaka D-2
Bokeljska G-1 orieva B-2 Ispod Petke G-2 Kralja Tomislava H-2
Boninovo J-3 ura Baljevia D-4 Istarska J-3 Kunieva C-2
Bosanka L-2 ura Basarieka I-1 Ive Dulia G-2 Kunska I-1
Bokovieva C-2 E. Kumiia H-2 Ivana Zajca G/H-1 L. Mataia H-1
Boatska I-2 F. Kolumbia H-2 Ivanska G-3 L. Rogovskog G/H-2
Brae Andrijia D-4 F. Preerna I-2 Iza Grada B-1, K-2 Lapad G-3
Branitelja Dubrovnika J-3 F. Supila L-2 Izmeu ribnjaka H-2 Lapadska obala H-2
Brdasta J-2 Ferieva B-3 Izmeu tri crkve J-2 Lazareti L-2
Brgatska L-2 Flore Jaki G-2 Izmeu vrta K-3 Lazarina L-2

62 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com


City Centre Map

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Spring 2017 63


City Map
Liechtensteinov put H/I-3 Metohijska I-1 Od Batale H-2 Od Tabakarije K-3
Lokrum L-3 Miha Pracata C-2 Od borova H-2 Oraka G-2
Lokrumska K-2 Mineta B/C-1 Od empresa J-2 P. Budmani K-2
Lopudska H-1 Mljetska H/I-1 Od Danaa J-3 P. ingrije I-3
Lovrijenac K-3 Mokoka I-1 Od Domina B-3 P. Kreimira IV L-2
Lovrina L-2 Moluntska G-1 Od gaja I-1/2, J-2 P. Preradovia H-2
Luarica D-3 Montovjerna I-2 Od Gale I/J-2 Padre Perice I-1
Luka Dubrovnik H-1 Mosorska G-2 Od Greba udioskih K-2 Palmotieva C-2
Luke Sorkoevia G-2 Most Dubrovnik G-1 Od Gradca J-3 Paska Baburice H-2
Ljubuka H-1 Mrtvo zvono B-4 Od Hladnice H-3 Pearica C-3
M. Blaia K-3 N. Ljubiia I-2 Od Katela B-4 Peline C-1
M. Budaka K-2 N. Nodila J-2 Od Kolorine K-3 Peljeka K-2
M. Dizdara I-1 Na Andriji B-3 Od Margarite C-4 Pera Bakia J-2
M. Gjaje J-2 Na Mihajlu H-2 Od maslinate L-2 Petilovrijenci C-2
M. Gupca K-2 Na Ponti D-2 Od Montovjerne I-2 Petra Svaia G-2
M. Hamzia I-2 Naljekovieva C-2 Od Nuncijate H-1 Pile J/K-3
M. Jarnovia G-2 Napice L-2 Od polaa C-2 Pionirska H-1
M. Mrnarevia I-2 Neumska H-1 Od pua C/B-3 Placa C/D-2
M. Vodopia G/H-2 Nikole Boidarevia B/C-3 Od pustijerne D-4 Placa Stradun C-2
Mala Petka G-3 Nikole Guetia C-3 Od Rupa B-3 Platska J-3
Mandaljenska G-3 Nikole Tesle H/I-2 Od Sigurate B-2 Ploe L-2
Marina Dria D-3 Nuncijata H-1 Od Sra K-2 Plovani skalini C-1
Marka Marojice H-2 Obala S. Radia I-2 Od Sv. Mihajla H-2 Pobijana D-4
Marojice Kaboge C-3 Obodska K-2 Od kara I-1 Pobreka H-1
Masarykov put F/G-3 Obuljenska J-2 Od orte B-3 Poljana Mrtvo zvono B-4

SPA at the B

H
Dubrovnik Sailing

64 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com


City Map
Poljana Marina Dria D-3 Solinska I-2 Sv.Dominika D-2 Vladimira Nazora J-2
Poljana Paska Milievia B-2 Solitudo G-1 Sv. Josipa B-3 Vatroslava Lisinskog G-2
Poljana Ruera Bokovia C-4 Sponza D-2 Sv.Nikole H-1 Velebitska G-2
Pomoraca H-1 Srebrenska J-2 etalite kralja Zvonimira G/H-2 Velika Petka G-3
Pomorski muzej E-4 Srednji kono K-2 etalite Nike i Meda Pucia F-2 Vetranieva C-2
Porat E-3 Stayeva E-4 ibenska G-2 Vicina K-2
Porporela E-3/4 Stonska G-2 ipanska H-1 Vika I-2
Posat E-2 Strossmayerova C-3 ipine I-2 Vlaha Paljetka H-1
Postranjska I-2 Stulina D-4 iroka C-2 Vukovarska I-2
Pred Dvorom D-3 Stradun B-2 Tivatska J-2 Za kapelicom K-2
Prelazna B-3 Sunana L-2 Tmuasta C-3 Za Kamenom E-4
Pridvorska J-2 Sustjepanska I-2 Topolska I-2 Za Rokom B-3
Prijeko B-2/3, C-2 Sv. Barbara C-1 Trg oruja E-2 Za rupama B-3
Primorska G-2 Sv. ura A-2, K-3 Trnovika I-2 Zadarska G-2
Privena J-2 Sv. Ivan E-3 Trpanjska G-1 Zagrebaka J/K-2
Puljizeva B-3 Sv. Jakov D-1 Trstenska G-2 Zamanjina C-2
Put od Bosanke L-2 Sv. Kria H-1 U pilama K-3 Zatonska G-2
Restieva D-4 Sv. Lucija C-1 Udarnika I-2 Zlatarieva B-2
Revelin E-1 Sv. Luka E-2 Uvala Gru H-1 Zlatarska D-2
Rijeka G-1 Sv. Petar B-4 Uvala Sumartin F-3 Zrinsko-Frankopanska K-2/3
Ribarnica D-2 Sv. Spasitelj E-4 Uz Giman H-2 Zvijezdieva B-3/4
Roka Mietia H-3 Sv. Stjepan D-4 Uz Glavicu H-2 eljezniarska H-1
S.S. Kranjevia I-2 Sv. imuna B-4 Uz Jezuite C-3/4 udioska D-2
Savska G-3 Sv. Vid C-1 Uz mline K-2 uljanska I-2
Sinjska I-2 Sv. Vlaha D-3 Uz posat B-1 upska L-2
Slanska G-2 Sv. Marije B-3 Uz tabor K-2

Barkley

Hotel Lero

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Traditional Dubrovnik renaissance recipes
inspired by the finest local ingredients in the
heart of the Old Town

b o ok on l i ne & s ave 5%

w w w. k l a r i s a - d u b r o v n i k . c o m

Klarisa d.o.o. Poljana Paska Milievia 4 OIB: 12053921736


+385 (0)20 413 100 info@klarisa.hr

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