Vous êtes sur la page 1sur 104

Maps Events Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Ljubljana
March - April 2017

Pleniks Ljubljana
Tour the city and marvel
at the masterpieces of
Slovenias most famous
architect

inyourpocket.com Slovenia Highlights


Postojna and other
Issue N52

FREE COPY

attractions
I always book
GoOpti to get
to the airport.
Comfortable
and convenient
airport shuttle.

From:

Ljubljana
To:

Ljubljana from 7

Venice from 14

Bergamo from 28

Trieste from 9

GoOpti.com
www.argentino.si
+386 31 600 900
2017
Contents

E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S

Arrival & Transport 8


Planes, trains, buses, taxis and transfers

Culture & Events 11


Festivals, exhibitions, music and much more

Walking with Plenik 11


Walk with the famous architect

Old Town 21
Wander the cobbled streets of medieval Ljubljana

Where to Eat 26
Everything from A to V(egetarian)

Cafs 47
Coffee, tea, ice cream and cake in the capital

Nightlife 51
Dance and drink the night away Gourmet burger in the sun? Yes please, we cant wait for Open
Kitchen/Odprta Kuhinja on Pogaarjev trg to start up again. (Photo:
Sightseeing 57 Open Kitchen)
Bridges, museums, the castle and more
Leisure 67
Golf, paddle or escape

Families & Kids 69


What to do with the little ones

BTC City & Citypark 71


Ljubljanas shopping and entertainment Mecca

Shopping 76
Where to go and what to buy

Where To Stay 82
Business suites to hostel bunks

Gourmet Slovenia 84
A foodie destination par excellence

Highlights of Slovenia 87
The best of what to visit outside Ljubljana

directory 96
Embassies and real estate

No its not a painting from Renoir or Monet, thats just Ljubljana look- Maps 98
ing its usual beautiful self on a fine spring day.(Photo: Visit Ljubljana)

www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket March - April 2017 5


Foreword
Though the mornings may still be frosty in early March,
Ljubljanas temperature will slowly rise alerting Mother Na-
ture to the arrival of spring. Chances are youll come across
little white snowbells growing in clusters all over the city.
This is a good sign that warmer weather and longer days
Publisher E S S E N TI A L
are on their way. Ljubljana In Your Pocket
Dont let the chill in the air stop you though, as there is still C I TY G U I D E S
Slovenska 17, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia
much to see and do in our little city of wonders. If youre Tel. +386 (0)30 316 601
lucky enough to be in the city on March 11, the Welcoming ljubljana@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com
of Spring event is a must-see, recreating the tradition of the
Director Niko Slavnic M.Sc., niko.slavnic@inyourpocket.com
handicraftsmen who once released wooden clogs contain-
ing candles into the river to celebrate the lengthening of ISSN 1855-3486
the day. IQBATOR d.o.o.
As March rolls into April, it will admittedly rain more than Printed Evrografis d.o.o.
Published Published six times per year
most of us would like, so an umbrella is a fine thing to have
on hand. This doesnt mean, however, that there wont be Editorial
any sunny days to enjoy! Soon enough the cafes lining the Editor James Cosier
Ljubljanica River will be packed with locals out for a drink Writers James Cosier, John Bills, Will Dunn, Craig Turp,
and a sharp shot of Vitamin D. Paul Steed, Yuri Barron, Andrea Jadrzyk
Design Mateja truc
Saturday mornings in the center of the city will show the Photography T Mule, D Judge, D Wedam, Tourism Ljubljana,
respect the locals have for their fresh produce as the market- Flickr, Shutterstock, Iztok Medja/Postojnska jama d.d.
place comes back to life. Its array of fruits, vegetables, snacks, Cover Photo Dunja Wedam, Visit Ljubljana
and trinkets give families a place to convene, shop, and take
time for a meal or drink al fresco (weather permitting, of Sales & Circulation Irena Jamnikar, Stanka Parkelj Rozina, Tina
course). So keep your umbrella close, but dont let a few rain- Bortnik
drops spoil what is sure to be a colorful spring in Ljubljana. Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright IQBATOR d.o.o. Maps copyright
cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication
CoVer story may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for
the purpose of review, without written permission from the
Pleniks Arcades were built between publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket
1940 and 1942. Inspired by ancient Ath- is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardin 9-4,
ens and the Renaissance, they now stand Vilnius, Lithuania, tel. (+370) 5 212 29 76). 2008-15.
as a defining element of Ljubljanas mar- Maps
ketplace. Monolit d.o.o.

about iyP
In Your Pocket, the worlds leading
publisher of locally-produced city
ESTONIA
guides since 1992, recently laun-
LATVIA RUSSIA ched a brand new smartphone app:
NORTHERN
IRELAND
LITHUANIA
in Your Pocket City Essentials. Fea-
IRELAND BELARUS turing only hand-picked venues and
NETHERLANDS
POLAND sights alongside essential travel in-
BELGIUM
GERMANY
CZECH
UKRAINE
formation, these city guides have
REPUBLIC been carefully crafted by our lo- cal
AUSTRIA
HUNGARY editors and include only the places
SWITZERLAND ROMANIA
SLOVENIACROATIA
GEORGIA
they are happy to recommend. The
ITALY
BOSNIA SERBIA
BULGARIA
app - available on both iOS and An-
MONTENEGRO
FYR MACEDONIA
droid - is free, and works offline. Go
ALBANIA to iyp.me/app on your smartphone
GREECE
to download it.
DUTCH
CARIBBEAN
To keep up with all thats new at In
SOUTH
AFRICA
Your Pocket, follow us on Facebook
(facebook. com/inyourpocket) or
Twitter (twitter. com/inyourpocket).

6 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


Ljubljana Basics
Climate SYMBOL key
Temperature, C Rainfall, mm P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
30 150
B Outside seating H Conference facilities
20 120 T Child-friendly U Facilities for the disabled
10
F Fitness centre L Guarded parking
90
0 R LAN connection 6 Pet-friendly
-10 60 K Restaurant J Old town location
-20 J F M A M J J A S O N D 30 D Sauna C Swimming pool
I Fireplace W Wifi
Crime and safety ros, while banknotes come in 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500
Ljubljana is one of the safest capital cities in the world, euros. The Slovenian side of the euro coins are decorated
with the only prevalent crime being bicycle theft, which with among other things storks, Mount Triglav, Lippizaner
is unlikely to affect short-term visitors (which weve also horses and a Joe Plenik design.
avoided by adorning our bicycle with flowers). Nowhere in
the city is unsafe to walk at any hour, although common
sense says avoid going deep into Tivoli park in the middle Smoking
of the night. Out-of-control cyclists and negligent drivers Cigarettes can only be purchased by people over 18. Slov-
not paying attention to pedestrians are the only real threat enia recently banned smoking in public indoor places,
to safety, as well as slow-to-react automatic doors that except in special smoking areas in offices, hotels and bars.
seem to be installed in shops across Ljubljana, although
these only really cause embarrassment.
Toilets
Drinking Clean public toilets can be found at Dragon Bridge (07:00 -
15:00. Closed Sun), in the Plenik Passageway west of Zvez-
Alcohol can only be sold to people over 18, and sadly after da Park (07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun) under Butchers Bridge
21:00 it cannot be bought in stores. (07:00 - 23:00) and at Triple Bridge (07:00 - 21:00).

Money Exchange rates


Slovenia adopted the euro in January 2007. Euro coins come
in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 cents, 1 and 2 eu- 1 = US1.06 = GBP 0.84 = CHF 1.06 = CNY 7.24
= 118,86 = 123.84 = 72,49 = TRY 3.31
= W 1226.5 (24.2.2017)
basic data
Population Market Values
Slovenia 2,066,797 (2011 estimate)
Ljubljana 278,789 (2011 estimate) Product Price
Area McDonalds Big Mac Meal 5.70
20,273 square kilometres Slice of pizza 1.80
Ethnic composition Slice of burek 2.00
Slovenian 83%, Former Yugoslav minorities 5.3%, Hun- Cup of coffee 1.10
garian, Albanian, Roma, Italian and others 11.7% Bottle of name brand vodka 12.50
Official languages Decent bottle of local wine 3.50
Slovenian, Italian, Hungarian Bottle of local beer in a shop 1.10
Local time Pint of beer in a pub 2.70
Central European (GMT + 1hr) Pack of cigarettes 3.50
Single bus ride 1.20
Longest river Movie ticket 6.00
Sava (221km in Slovenia) Litre of petrol 1.24
Highest mountain Taxi ride across town 5.00
Triglav 2,864m.
Borders
Austria 318km, Italy 280km, Hungary 102km, Croatia More information available online
670km ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket March - April 2017 7


Arriving & Getting Around
Officially part of the Schengen zone since late 2007
and nearly completely surrounded by other Schengen- A Word From Our Mayor
agreement countries, entering Slovenia has never been
easier. With a well-developed system of buses, trains For me, Ljubljana is the
and highways throughout the country, getting around most beautiful city in the
is also fairly easy. The centre of Ljubljana is relatively world - a capital unique
small, meaning public transport is rarely, if ever, needed for its special position in
when in town. the heart of Slovenia. As a
city with rich history and
cultural heritage, it attracts
Arriving in Ljubljana more visitors every year
Arriving by plane from near and far. The most
Well connected to the Balkans and most major European important ambassadors for
destinations, Ljubljanas cosy little Joe Punik Airport is Ljubljana are undoubtedly
26km northwest of the city, near Brnik. With a buffet-style our residents, who immerse themselves in the mix of
restaurant, free Wi-Fi for internet addicts, a couple of cafes, cultures and always ensure a touch of comfort and
bank (with ATM), currency exchange (open 07:00 - 19:00) warmth with their openness, kindness and hospitality.
and post office (open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 07:00 - 12:00, Sun Welcome to Ljubljana!
closed), it is as small and efficient as Slovenia itself. Getting Zoran Jankovi
there takes about 30 minutes by taxi (35-45) or shuttle Mayor
(5-8, schedule is coordinated with flights) and roughly
twice as long by bus (4.10, up to 16 per day between
05:00 - 20:00). Check the airports website for a complete on tickets to all major tourist destinations in Slovenia. Full
schedule. Tickets can be bought from the driver when schedules and other tourist information can be found on
boarding the bus. QLetalie Joeta Punika, Zgornji the bus stations website.QD/E-1, Trg Osvobodilne Fronte
Brnik 130a, tel +386 (0)4 20 610 00, info@lju-airport.si, 4, tel. 1991 (from Slovene numbers only), +386 (0)1 234
www.lju-airport.si. Open 00:00-24:00 46 00, narocanje@ap-ljubljana.si, www.ap-ljubljana.si
Open 05:00 - 22:30, Sat 05:00 - 22:00, Sun 05:30 - 22:30.
Arriving by bus
Essentially a large caravan without any wheels, Ljubljanas Arriving by car
temporary central bus station could not be easier to use. Driving to Ljubljana is a joy due to the good roads and
Enter through one of the doors at either end, buy a ticket at excellent signposting. The city is circled by a ring road
one of the ticket offices and away you go. The bus station from where its easy to get to the centre. Simply follow
operates all major national routes as well as regular inter- the parking signs for convenient places to leave your car
national ones. Besides buying bus tickets and getting infor- near the city centre. Once in the city, its best to walk
mation about bus transport, you can also get special deals the short distances rather than drive through the heavy
traffic and narrow street. Also, if youre staying in Old
Urbana Card Ljubljana be aware that it is largely a pedestrian only
zone.
In order to use Ljubljanas extensive public bus net-
work, you must first purchase an Urbana Card. What is Arriving by train
an Urbana card, we hear you cry? Available from the Full of nice touches such as little conveyor belts for tak-
LPP office, tourist information centres and most of the ing heavy bags up to the platforms, Ljubljanas reason-
kiosks and post offices in town, this little yellow card ably central train station is just north of the main action.
costs 2 and can store up to 50 of credit on it at any The main building has everything you need, including an
time. In order to top it up, you can do so at any of the ATM and press stand selling top-up cards (but alas no SIM
spots mentioned above or at the excellently named cards) for prepaid SIM accounts. Left luggage is provided
Urbanomat machines, which are the green things courtesy of 80 coin-operated lockers with instructions in
next to most bus stops. These machines accept both English on platform N1, with the toilets conveniently
cash and credit and debit cards. Once youve topped located next door. The centre of town is safely within
up your card, using it couldnt be easier. Simply get on walking distances, but there are also taxis outside for the
the bus of your choice, touch the card to one of the weary.QE-1, Trg Osvobodilne Fronte, tel. +386 (0)1291
green card readers at the entrance and 1.20 will be 33 32, potnik.info@slo-zeleznice.si, www.slo-zeleznice.
deducted from your card, 1.20 which allows for up to si. Open 05:00 - 22:00.
90 minutes of travel including unlimited transfers. The
Urbana works in much the same way as Londons Oys- More information online at
ter Card and Paris Navigo Pass, at a fraction of the price
of course. ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

8 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


Most flights arriving at Ljubljanas airport in Brnik approach from the east, so try to request a window seat on the right side of the plane to
get some amazing views of the Alps whilst landing.

Public Transport headlights at all times and must have a spare wheel, warn-
Although most of Ljubljanas sights are within easy walking ing triangle, spare lightbulb, first aid kit and, in winter, ei-
distance for even the most unfit and/or laziest of people (and ther snow chains or winter tyres. The alcohol limit is 0.05%,
you can trust us as were proud card carrying members of and EU residents should be aware that any fines and/or
both groups), there is a far-reaching and fairly efficient bus driving license points incurred whilst in Slovenia will theo-
network for reaching attractions farther afield, such as the retically follow you home. The traffic information centre
Zoo, BTC shopping centre or even distant marna Gora, or has road webcams and maps of current traffic problems at
for those interested in seeing what the city looks like outside www.promet.si.
the city centre. Atet
QJ-2, Devova 6a, tel. +386 (0)1 320 82 30, sales@atet.si,
KAVALIR www.atet.si. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 13:00.
Primarily intended for use by the elderly and the Avant
mobility-impaired, these little green electric wizards QL1, Dunajska 140, tel. +386 (0)1 589 08 50, avantcar@
can be hailed for free transport anywhere within the avantcar.si, avantcar.si. Open 08:00-18:00, Sat, Sun
pedestrianized city centre. Carrying up to five pas- 08:00-14:00,
sengers, the little monsters reach terrifying speeds Budget
of up to 25km p/h, so strap in tight. In all seriousness QD-3 , Mikloieva 3 (Grand Hotel Union Executive), tel.
though, the electric free taxi is another example of +386 (0)14 21 73 40, info@budget.si, www.budget.si.
Ljubljanas commitment to its ecological future. Two
cars run in summer from 08:00 until 20:00.
A Ticket To Drive
AIRPORT TRANSFERS SSlovenia requires all motor
GoOpti vehicles travelling on Slove-
GoOpti, the Best Airport Shuttle of 2014 according to In Your nian highways to have a vinjeta
Pocket readers, offers comfortable and convenient transfers (veen-yeh-tah) sticker. This sys-
to and from a number of airports. Currently it operates in tem exists in lieu of tolls, and
more than 50 cities, including Ljubljana, Venice, Munich, the vinjeta can be easily ob-
Zagreb, Trieste and more, making airport transfers as stress- tained at nearly all gas stations
free as possible. You cant go wrong with GoOpti. With and kiosks. Yearly/monthly/
prices starting at 7.00, GoOptis main characteristics are weekly stickers are 110/30/15
professional drivers, an exemplary safety record and a smart for cars, 220/60/30 for larger
and easy online booking system. tel. +386 (0)1 320 45 30, vehicles (ie with a height of over 1.3m above the front
info@goopti.com, www.goopti.com. axis) and 55/30/7.50 for motorcycles, with 30 for half a
year . Note that border police are unlikely to remind you
to purchase a vinjeta when entering the country, but are
CAR RENTAL likely to issue a steep fine when leaving if youve failed to
The speed limit is 50km/hr in built-up areas, 90-100km/ do so. For more info check Qwww.dars.si.
hr on main roads, 130km/hr on highways. Cars must use
www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket March - April 2017 9
Arriving & Getting Around
Parking Garages Hopin Taxi
Catching a cab in Ljubljana has never been easier
PH Kapitelj thanks to Hopin Taxis free app bringing together tech
The garage is only 100m or so from the famous Drag- and taxis to provide a convenient and safe service.
on Bridge and Trnica market. While there are only 261 Hopins taxis are all registered, you can check fares,
spaces, you can normally find a free one.QE3, Poljan- which are among the cheapest in Ljubljana and driv-
ski Nasip 4, tel. +386 (0)1 400 60 70/+386 (0)51 366 ers ratings are listed making the service a great way
510, phkapitelj@parkiraj.si, www.parkiraj.si. to avoid unscrupulous drivers - unfortunately, yes Lju-
bljana does have a few. The easy to use app also gives
PH Meksiko users a ton of options, you can choose by car type,
A large modern facility situated adjacent to the Slove- pick a female driver or order a wheelchair friendly cab.
nias main medical facilities and just down the street Qhopintaxi.com/en
from the central bus and railway stations. There are a
total of 624 spaces, and the ground floor is home to
a popular German supermarket.QF2, Njegoova Ride like
the locals do
8, tel. +386 (0)1 600 40 38/+386 (0)51 366 510,
- Order a taxi in
phmeksiko@parkiraj.si, www.parkiraj.si. 16 different languages
- Get the eeimated
price in advance
PH entpeter - Don't ruggle with
Situated near the University of Ljubljana Medical your pick up location

Centre at the intersection of Zaloka and Njegoeva Use HOPIN,


the bee way
Streets, entpeter Parking House boasts some 500 to order a taxi
parking spaces.QF3, Zaloka 1, tel. +386 (0)1 400 in Ljubljana

60 24/+386 (0)51 366 510, phsentpeter@parkiraj.si,


www.parkiraj.si.
www.hopintaxi.com

PH Trdinova
Only a short walk from the Ljubljana Stock Exchange,
main courthouse and various corporate head offices, Laguna Taxi
the Trdinova Parking House has near 1200 spaces. Qtel. +386 (0)31 492 299, taxi.laguna@siol.net, www.
QD2, Trdinova 9, tel. +386 (0)1 600 40 67/+386 taxi-laguna.com.
(0)51 366 510, phtrdinova@parkiraj.si, www. Metro Taxi
parkiraj.si. Open 00:00 - 24:00. From 06:00-18:00 up Qtel. +386 (0)80 11 90, taxi@metroprevozi.net, www.
to 1.90 one metroprevozi.net/TaxiPrevozi.htm.

Open 00:00 - 24:00. From 06:00-18:00 up to 1.90 one


hour, every additional hour 2.40, from 18:00- 06:00
1.20 per hour. Daily rate 25, while monthly fees are bicike(LJ)
as low as 150-170.
Ljubljanas bike hire scheme, known as bicikeLJ, is a
great way to get around the city. Some 20 stations
with a total of 300 bikes are concentrated in centre of
Central Rent town, so dont try riding to marna Gora or elsewhere
QSlovenska cesta 36, tel. +386 (0)40 21 60 84, +386 on the outskirts. The trick is to make sure all your trips
(0)5 904 32 14, info@centralrent.si, www.centralrent. are under an hour, then all youll need to pay is the
si. Open - Available 24 hours. ridiculously cheap registration fee of 1/week or 3/
year. Registration must be done in advance with a
major credit card on very user-friendly official website
Taxis en.bicikelj.si, which is also conveniently in English.
Ljubljanas taxis are safe, clean and generally reliable.
The starting rate is usually between 0.80-1.50 with
a per kilometre rate of 0.70-1.70, depending on the
company, time of day and number of passenger. Order-
ing a taxi by phone will get you lower rates for longer
distance trips.
Taxi Rondo
Qtel. +386 (0)70 900 900, info@taxi-rondo.si, www.
taxi-rondo.si.
10 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Culture and Events

Explore the history of Slovenian industry, capital and labour, plus find out whats coming next at the City Museum. (Photo: Andrej Peunik,
MGML)

11.03 SATURDAY (17:00 20:00) for children, included guided tours and a multi-themed chil-
THE WELCOMING OF SPRING drens corner. Aside from the presentation of collections there
The welcoming of spring, a traditional event taking place in will also be various themed exhibitions, lectures and of course
Ljubljana before St Gregorys Day, revives the handicrafts- auctions. QLjubljana Exhibition and Convention Centre ,
mens tradition of lauching wooden clogs with burning Dunajska 10, tel. +386 (0)1 300 26 96, fax +386 (0)1 300
candles inside them into waters as a sign of rejoicing at no 26 48, info@collecta.si, www.collecta.si. Tickets 5, disa-
longer having to work by candlelight. According to folk tra- bled and children 14 and under free.
dition, St Gregory brings spring, and by the Julian calendar,
his name day (12 March) is the first day of spring. The fam- 24.03 - 27.10 Fridays
ily-and tourist-friendly event is held along the banks of the Odprta Kuhna
Gradaica Canal on Eipporova Ulica in Trnovo just south of Every Friday from late March to late October (weather per-
the city centre. mitting) Pogaarjev Trg in Ljubljanas old town transforms
into one big melting point of culinary and social excitement,
17. 03 friday - 18. 03. saturday as Odprta Kuhna (Open Kitchen) takes over. Featuring the
Collecta - Ljubljana International mouth-watering gastronomic creations of many of the fin-
Collectors Fair est restaurants throughout the country, as well as local beers,
Ljubljanas 11th annual Collectors Fair will take place in March wines and spirits, to call this Ljubljanas main event on a Fri-
at the Exhibition and Convention Centre. Bringing together phi- day would be something of an understatement, as the event
latelists, numismatists, deltiologists, as well as collectors of min- always attracts large crowds of hungry (but not for long)
erals, fossils, old books, antique, vinyl records and pretty much folk. A full list of participants can be found on the official
anything and everything else one could think of. Around a 150 website, although after viewing the names it will be impos-
collectors are expected to show the product of their labours to sible to stay away.QPogaarjev Trg, info@odprtakuhna.si,
over 10,000 visitors this year, and there will be special activities odprtakuhna.si, Mar - May 10:00 - 21:00. Free admission.
www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket March - April 2017 11
Culture and Events
16. 04. sunday
EASTER IN SLOVENIA Traditional Slovenian Evening
Although your average Slovene is not exactly a devout ad- The name says it all, experience a traditional Slovenian
herent to Catholicism, Easter (or Velika no in Slovene), is still evening in the city centre of Ljubljana. For the same
a major holiday in the country, and Easter Monday (falling price youd pay just for dinner at many other restaurants
on 17 April this year) is a work-free day. So if youre visiting around town, you can see how locals live it up in their
Ljubljana at this time you can expect it to be noticeably qui- home villages with lots of live music, a full folklore show
eter than usual although depending on the weather you with costumes from different regions, traditional dances
may still have to elbow your way into a seat at one of the and games, as well as a full meal. Guests are also encour-
countless cafs along the Ljubljanica river. aged to participate, and after a couple of courage-build-
If you have the honour of being invited to someones home dur- ing drinks it is definitely difficult to resist the temptation.
ing Easter weekend which is not incredibly likely given that its Every guest even receives a gift at the end of the night.
traditionally a time for family gatherings be prepared to eat In addition to their regular dinners the folks behind the
more or less continually for three days straight, as the weekend award-winning event organise other programmes and
is informally referred to by many as the Slovene eating holiday. activities on request anywhere in Slovenia. More info and
One Easter delicacy you have to try is potica, a rolled cake that lots of photos can be found on the official website, where
can come with any number of fillings, most commonly a wal- bookings can also conveniently be made directly.Qtel.
nut or poppy seed paste. If you cant get it homemade, its best +386 (0)40 363 272, www.slovenian-evening.com.
purchased from smaller bakeries or the central market.
2000m+ alpine peaks, it is the only kind of setting worthy of
14.05 sunday (20:00) such an internationally prestigious ski event. QRatee, tel.
Depeche Mode +386 (0) 51 610 944, planica@sloski.si, www.planica.si .
After more than 30 years in the business, Depeche Mode
have evolved from 80s pop kids through to elder states- 04.05 THURSDAY 07.05. SUNDAY
men of electronic music. With an impressive back cata- 22ND INTERNAUTICA INTERNATIONAL BOAT SHOW
logue and plenty of experience putting on live shows, you With over 20 years of tradition, the Internautica Adriatic Inter-
can expect an evening of devotion, violation, excitement national Boat Show has established itself as one Central Eu-
and celebration at the indoor Arena Stoice. ropes Major meeting points for marine business and nautical
tourism in the region. With its consistent search for quality
Outside Ljubljana and exciting content, it is the perfect lead-in to the summer
season for boating professionals and enthusiasts alike.
23.03 THURSDAY 26.03 SUNDAY Internautica showcases over 150 new vessels, with more than
PLANICA FIS WORLD CUP SKI JUMPING FINAL 200 exhibitors from all over the worls and over 500 major
Home to the annual FIS ski flying world cup event, the back- maritime brands presented annually. Well over 15,000 boating
drop of the Planica valley is magnificent. Awesome rugged enthusiasts and maritime experts attend the boat show every
peaks tower all around; formed by the Planica glacier some year. Visitors will be able to evaluate a wide range of new mod-
20,000 years ago. The jump itself comprises a fearsomely large els of power yachts, sailing boats and catamarans whilst enjoy-
and heart stoppingly steep slope, stuff only for professional ski ing the great outdoors. Internautica will, once again, confirm
fliers, or the clinically insane. The current world record (239m) the fact that there is no better place to shop for your boat than
is held by one of the former, Norwegian Bjrn Einar Romren, at our boat show, a show where you can experience a wide
and was contested by a Finn, Janne Ahonen, whose 240m range of boat types and styles all in one place. A full range of
flight ended with a fall - 2005 was apparently a great year for marine electronics, sport products and accessories will also be
breaking records here. Every year Planica is prepared for the on display. QPortoro Marina, tel. +386 (0)1 56 55 126, in-
onslaught of thousands spectators in March. Being amongst ternautica@internautica.net, www.internautica.net.

12 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


Culture and Events
EVENTS IN MARCH EVENTS IN APRIL
01 Helmet + guests @ Kino Siska
1 Gipsy Kings Live Latino @ Stoice Sports
2 - 3 Slovenian Philharmonic Orchestra. Con- Park Arena
ductor: Cristian Mcelaru @Cankarjev Dom
2 Budapest Festival Orchestra (Budapesti
8 - 11 Gibanica (Moving Cake) Festival of Fesztivlzenekar), Conductor: Ivn Fischer @
Slovenian Dance @ various locations Cankarjev Dom

9 Kromatika Astonishing Excellence, Con- 5 New Zealand String Quartet @ Cankarjev


ductor: Giedr lekyt @ Cankarjev Dom Dom

9 - 11 12th Slovenian Biennial Of Illustration @ 6 - 7 Slovenian Philharmonic Orchestra,


Cankarjev Dom Conductor: Hans Graf @ Cankarjev Dom

10 Asking Alexandria + special guests @ Kino Siska 7 Odprta kuhna @ Pogaarjev trg

11 The welcoming of spring 7 - 8 2Cellos - concert of fusion, pop and clas-


sical music @ Stoice Sports Park Arena
14 Frankfurt Radio Symphony Orchestra
(Hessischer Rundfunk Sinfonieorchester), Con- 12 Youth to Youth @ Cankarjev Dom
ductor: Andrs Orozco-Estrada @ Cankarjev Dom
13 Bassless (Slovenia) - pop, a capella @
15 - 22 19th Ljubljana International Docu- Ljubljana Castle
mentary film Festival @ Slovenska kinoteka,
Cankarjev dom, Kinodvor 13 Kromatika Karizna and the Russians,
Conductor: George Peh livanian @ Cankarjev
17 Georg Friedrich Hndel: Giulio Cesare in Dom
Egitto @ Cankarjev Dom
14 Odprta kuhna @ Pogaarjev trg
17 - 18 Collecta - Ljubljana International Col-
lectors Fair @ Ljubljana Exhibition and Convention 16 Easter in Slovenia
Centre

22 Youth to Youth @ Cankarjev Dom 21 Odprta kuhna @ Pogaarjev trg

23 mar - 27 aug Robert Capa, Retrospective 23 Gregory Porter @ Cankarjev Dom


photo exhibition @ Cankarjev dom
23 - 24 Slovenian Philharmonic Orchestra,
Conductor: Uro Lajovic @ Cankarjev Dom Buy Tickets
23 - 26 Planica FIS World Cup Ski Jumping Tickets for events can usually be purchased in advance at
Final @ Planica the venue, or from ticket agencies.
23 Slovene Octet (Slovenia) - choir music @
Ljubljana Castle Eventim
Online ticket sales for more than 3,000 events per year, in-
24 Odprta kuhna @ Pogaarjev trg cluding concerts, sports, and cultural events across Slove-
nia and Central Europe. Check the offer of events and buy
25 Michelle Gurevich (Chinawoman) @ Kino Siska tickets before you even arrive in Slovenia.QB1, Celovka
25, tel. +386 (0)14 30 24 05, www.eventim.si/portal/en.
27 Peter Lovin: Obmoje medveda @ Cankar-
jev Dom Tourist Information Centre
The helpful staff at Ljubljanas main tourist information
28 Indek: XIXABrian Lopez and Gabriel Sul- centre can answer pretty much any question you have
livan @ Kino Siska about the city, provide you with maps and countless other
30 - 31 Slovenian Philharmonic Orchestra brochures, and also sell tickets for concerts, shows and
Conductor: Uro Lajovic @ Cankarjev Dom various other events.QD3, Adami-Lundrovo Nabreje
2, tel. +386 (0)13 06 12 15, www.visitljubljana.si. Open
October-May 08:00-19:00.
www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket March - April 2017 13
Culture and Events

12. 7. 2017 / Krianke


predprodaja vstopnic: www.eventim.si

Ustanoviteljica

exhibition GALA HALA


27.10.2016 THURSDAY 21.05.2017 SUNDAY QF-1, Masarykova 24, tel. +386 (0)1 43 17 063, www.
A NEW AGE IS COMING! INdUSTRY LABOUR galahala.com.
CAPITAL OPERA & BALLET LjUBLjANA
Today it is golden shopping carts that are bringing us to QB/C-3, upanieva 1, tel. +386 (0)1 241 17 66/+386
the new age. In the past, privatisation vouchers, large home (0)31 69 66 00, www.opera.si.
appliances, self-management, games of military hide-and- SLOVENIAN PHILHARMONIC (SLOVENSKA FIL-
seek, the earliest trade fairs, the struggle for workers rights, HARMONIjA)
the first factories and factory-owners were likewise bring- QC-4, Kongresni Trg 10, tel. +386 (0)1 241 08 00, www.
ing us to new ages. Industry changing the image of cities; filharmonija.si.
cities changing the lives of workers; workers changing
capital; capital changing the rhythm of life. The same proc-
esses were going on across Europe, but in Ljubljana they Cinemas
occurred our way. Discover special aspects of how industry, Foreign films are screened in the original language with Slov-
labour and capital developed in Ljubljana! QCity Muse- enian subtitles, except for childrens films which are usually
um of Ljubljana, tel. +386 (0)1 24 12 500, info@mgml. dubbed. Aside from the largest blockbusters, films tend to
si, www.mgml.si. open with significant lag with respect to larger markets, so
dont be surprised to see posters advertising something re-
leased months earlier in you own country. Tickets cost 5-6.
ConferenCe Venues
CANKARjEV dOM KINO BEIGRAd
Located in the centre of town, Cankarjev Dom is Slovenias QL-3, Linhartova 11, tel. +386 (0)83 807 068, info@
largest purpose-built congress centre in terms of audito- kino-bezigrad.si, www.kino-bezigrad.si.
rium style seating. Of its 22 multi-purpose halls and func- KINOdVOR
tional spaces, the largest has a capacity of up to 2,000 del- QD-2, Kolodvorska 13, tel. +386 (0)1 239 22 17, info@
egates, and the entire venue can host up to 5,000 visitors kinodvor.org, www.kinodvor.org.
simultaneously.QB-3/4, Preernova 10, tel. +386 (0)12 41 KINO KOMUNA
71 22, www.cd-cc.si. QCankarjeva 1, tel. +386 (0)1 241 8400, www.kolosej.si.
KOLOSEj
LjUBLjANA ExHIBITION ANd CONVENTION QM-3, martinska 152, tel. +386 (0)15 20 55 00, www.
CENTRE (GOSPOdARSKO RAzSTAVIE) kolosej.si.
GR, as it is known in Slovene, is the largest convention centre SLOVENSKA KINOTEKA
in Slovenia, and is the location of nearly all of Ljubljanas major QD-2, Mikloieva 28, tel. +386 (0)1 43 42 524, www.
conventions, fairs and trade shows. With 20 multifunctional kinoteka.si.
halls and rooms it can accommodate thousands of visitors,
and also has 1,500 parking spaces within short walking dis-
tance. For those arriving by public transport, it is located only Cultural Centres
300 metres from the main train and bus stations.QD-1, Du- KINO IKA (URBAN CULTURAL CENTRE)
najska 18, tel. +386 (0)13 00 26 11, www.gr-sejem.si. After nearly a year of renovation, one the citys most iconic
cinemas reopened its doors in 2009 as an urban cultural cen-
tre featuring several state-of-the-art preformance halls and
ConCert halls exhibition spaces. Dedicated to promoting contemporary
CENTRE STOICE music, theatre, dance and experimental events, it already
QL-1, Vojkova Cesta. attracts big-name regional and international artists, and is
14 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Culture and Events
scheduled to hosts around 200 events per year. Most concerts
are held in its largest multi-purpose hall, dubbed the Cathe-
dral, which can fit over 932 people. Check out their English
language website for more info and a full schedule of events.
QK3, Trg Prekomorskih Brigad 3, tel. +386 (0)30 310 100,
info@kinosiska.si, www.kinosiska.si. PHLEB

Metelkova Mesto (Alternative Culture


Centre)
Ljubljanas famous artists colony hosts a number of clubs,
most of which play thrash style music to a dreadlocked
black-clad audience of all ages. Unfortunately little of the
website is in English so it would be a case of try it and see,
but what we can say for sure is that it provides a refresh-
ing and alternative alternative to the dance music found in
most other clubs and attracts a crowd who probably care
more that youre cool as in non-judgmental than cool as
in what youre wearing and how you sip your drink. Well
worth checking-out both for itself and for the philosophy
behind the whole set-up.QF1/2, Masarykova 24, www.
metelkovamesto.org.

Galleries
BeArtAngel
This little gallery on Gornji trg in Ljubljanas old town is the
peaceful sanctuary of local artist Boidar A. Koleric, who
paints under the moniker of BeArtAngel. Koleri has spent
his life exploring creativity and life energy, ideals conveyed
in this latest endeavours. These world-renowned paintings
are said to represent unseen energies and can give a help-
ing hand in achieving inner peace. Such lofty artistic ideals
might be a little confusing, but Boidar himself is on hand
to happily explain the meaning behind the project. Hand-
made crystal water bottles are also available to purchase
here, with a wide selection of crystals and other accessories
on offer. Check the website for more information.QD4,
Gornji Trg 19, tel. +386 (0)41 764 352, beartangel@gmail.
com, www.beartangel.si. Mon - Fri 11:00 13:00, 15:00
19:00, Sat 10:00 14:00, Sun closed.

DobraVaga
One of the most unique arts venues in the city, DobraVaga
is a combination exhibition and project space, sales gal-
lery, pen artists studio and lively caf, whose programme
is focussed the younger generation of local artists. Its
name, which is derived from an old Slovene expression
meaning add a little more [to the scales], as well as its
slogan art by the pound and even its logo of a fish swim-
ming into a picture frame, all cheekily allude to both the
the overall concept behind the project and the space itself
(in the beautiful Plenik-designed arcade next to the fish
market). While the art on display isnt literally sold by its
weight, the artists work and creative process are valued
more than their name, and there is always a wide variety
of different works on display, with prices starting at less
than 10. QD-3, Adami-Lundrovo Nabreje 5, +386
(0)30 310 106, info@dobravaga.si, dobravaga.si. Open
10:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun.
www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket March - April 2017 15
Culture and Events
call. The theatre also offers a stepping-stone to young
directors with professional working conditions, enabling
quick and effective personal artistic growth and providing
an entry point to a successful theatre career. Glejs team vi-
sion is to keep the institution a daring urban theatre, dedi-
cated to theatrical research and promoting the new and
marginal, while offering creators a space of uncensored
freedom of creation.QC4, Gregorieva 3, tel. +386 (0)1
251 66 79, www.glej.si.

Mladinsko Theatre (Mladinsko


Gledalie)
Often referred to as a laboratory for artists to develop and
create, Mladinsko Theatre has been active for well over
50 years and shows no sign of slowing down. Known for
working with stage directors who arent afraid to push
boundaries and explore the avant-garde, its current season
flies under the title of Who Are Our Heroes?, with pro-
ductions exploring the concept of heroism in the modern
Buy artisanal goods at the market and proper art nextdoor at age.QE1, Vilharjeva 11, tel. +386 (0)1 425 33 12, www.
DobraVaga . (Photo Kino ika) en.mladinsko.com. Main box office at Trg Francoske
Revolucije 5 is open Mon-Fri 12:00-17:30, Sat 10:00-13:00.
Aksioma Project Space
QD/E2, Komenskega 18, tel. +386 (0)590 54 360/+386 Puppet Theatre (Lutkovno Gledalie)
(0)590 17 010, projectspace@aksioma.org, www. Taking as its cue the origins of Slovenian puppet theatre
aksioma.org. Open 12:00-18:00. Closed Mon, Sat, Sun. in the 15th century, this puppet theatre, founded in 1948,
Jakopi Galerija provides over 500 performances annually, and is a hotbed
QC4, Slovenska 9, tel. +386 (0)1 24 12 500, info@ of creative music, design and other forms. Its responsible
mestnimuzej.si, www.mestnimuzej.si. Open 10:00- for keeping scores of children entertained and amused
18:00. Closed Mon. every week. Keep an eye out for the musical puppets that
Kapelica Gallery come out of the small tower on the roof of the building
QC2, Kersnikova 4, tel. +386 (0)40 21 22 92, www. on the hour.QD/E3, Krekov Trg 2, tel. +386 (0)1300 09
kapelica.org. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 70, www.lgl.si. The box office is open Monday to Friday
Mestna Galerija (City Gallery) from 16:00 to 18:00, Saturday from 10:00 to 12:00, and
QD3/4, Mestni Trg 5, tel. +386 (0)1 241 17 70, mestna. during the hour prior to each performance.
galerija-lj@siol.net, www.mestna-galerija.si. Open
11:00-19:00, Sun 11:00-15:00. Closed Mon. Stara Mestna Elektrarna - Elektro Ljub-
kuc Gallery jana
QD4, Stari Trg 21, tel./fax +386 (0)1421 31 40, galerija. Ljubljanas old power plant is one of the citys finest pieces
skuc@guest.arnes.si,www.galerija.skuc-drustvo.si. of industrial architecture. Constructed more than a centu-
Open 12:00-20:00. Closed Mon. ry ago, this historical and architectural landmark was given
Tobana 001 a new lease on life in the 80s and 90s, when local artists
QA4, Tobana 1, tel. +386 (0)1 24 12 500, info@mgml. turned it into a premier cultural space. The venue contin-
si, www.mgml.si. Open 11:00-19:00. Closed Mon, Sat, ues to be a hub of the local creative and intellectual scene
Sun. hosting radical and provocative performances, discussions
Vigalica Galerija and workshops, whilst there are several festivals held at
QC4, Trg Francoske Revolucije 7, www.mgml.si. Open the venue throughout the year - Ex Ponto and Mladi Levi
11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. are two well worth checking out. If youre catching a show,
or are just a fan industrial architecture, make sure to also
visit the small museum detailing the buildings technical
Theatres heritage.QE2, Slomskova 18, tel. +386 (0)51 269 906,
Gledalie Glej www.bunker.si.
Glej Theatre is Slovenias oldest independent theatre.
Founded back in 1970, this experimental venue and
production house has been led through the decades by
young theatre creators, many of whom are Slovenias most More events online at
well known theatre practitioners today.
Glej produces and hosts research theatre projects of up- ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
and-coming directors, who can apply to through an open
16 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Photo: B. Jakse/ Visit Ljubljana

Walking with Plenik


The main reading room of NUK, the National
and University Library, is one of Plecniks
masterpieces. Remember there is more to a
building than the facade, venture inside to
fully experience his architectural genius.

www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket March - April 2017 17


is worth visiting if only to see how form did not over-
whelm function in this building.

Turning away from the arcades you have the market


itself, which Plenik designed with both open and cov-
ered areas. The latter has some interesting stalls selling
meats, cheeses, dried fruits, nuts and other specialties.
The open market remains an important part of the city
centre, where local families and businesses shop for
supplies, and its well worth visiting in the mornings.

While walking through the arcades and market can let


you see Pleniks work close-up, a very good view can
be had from the other side of the river. Theres a short
and very pleasant walk along Petkovkovo nabreje,
which lets you see the arcades as a whole, revealing
how they follow the line of the mediaeval wall that en-
circled the old town. You should also note the uneven
stone blocks in the wall, something Plenik made use
of in other places on this walk, as well as the turret-like
structure that covers the spiral staircase to the fish mar-
ket. Theres a run of excellent cafes and bars, so youre
sure to find somewhere you like to sit down, relax, and
enjoy the view.

While Plenik made plans for a bridge connecting


both side of town here, the existing Butchers Bridge
was only built at this site in 2010, and is perhaps best-
known as the one covered in so-called lovers locks.
The church of St. Francis of Assisi in ika, or simply Pleniks
Well leave the utility of this for you to consider, but its
church to locals a good bridge to visit, both for the interesting and of-
ten amusing sculptures that it includes, and the views
it provides of the next Plenik structure on this walk,
A 60-minute Walk with the Triple Bridge.
Plenik On a fine day when Preeren Square and the Triple
While Pleniks influence extends well beyond the Bridge are full of people walking to and fro it may seem
sights seen on this route, theyll give you a good idea like this place has been unchanged for centuries, so
of his style, as well as how profoundly he changed the well does it blend into the old town, but in fact the area
shape of this city. It starts, however, with a one of the was only pedestrianised in 2007. Until then vehicles
few iconic structures in Ljubljana that Plenik had noth- went through the square and over the main bridge, as
ing to do with - Dragon Bridge itself. they had done since mediaeval times. This reveals one
of Ljubljanas secrets, one underlined by Pleniks cre-
Go there and take your pictures, then look at Pleniks ations - its ability to grow more beautiful over time, by
arcades and market, from either side of the river. If you reworking the past rather than erasing it.
go on the right bank - the same side as the castle - you
can stroll along the arcades and admire this work on a The Triple Bridge is another good example of this. The
more human scale. Plenik intended it as a monument 19th century stone bridge crossing the Ljubljanica
to Emona, Roman Ljubljana, which explains the simple eventually became too small for the amount of traffic
classicism of the columns and colonnades. it carried, and the new structure was Pleniks solution.
The outer bridges were built for pedestrians, while the
One oddity to note, the columns at the end nearest middle one was reserved for vehicles. A noted feature is
Dragon Bridge are longer than those by Triple Bridge, the use of balustrades, 648 in total, and its worth look-
and were designed this way to reduce the effects of ing out for echoes of these in other Plenik buildings
perspective when looking from the latter, an illusion around town, as he was a great believer in recycling and
that can be slightly unsettling when seen from either reusing materials.
end. The arcades are now occupied by cafs, delicates-
sens and butchers. Near the Triple Bridge end there also The Triple Bridge can be enjoyed from many angles,
a downstairs fish market that overlooks the river, and and we recommend you approach it from various sides
18 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Walking with Plenik
during your stay, perhaps even by boat, to enjoy the designed many of the details, from the horse-head
spaces it opens up as it connects the old and new parts door handle to much of the original furniture and fit-
of Ljubljana. Our favourite view, however, comes a little tings. The main staircase and reading room are espe-
further down the river, from the next, rather unassum- cially impressive, and there are regular tours of the
ing bridge. To get there you can walk along Cankarjevo building for visitors.
nabreje, past Lolita and other riverside cafs and bars,
or, to continue the Plenik theme, walk along the side Nearby youll see a tall column in another small square,
opposite the castle. called French Revolution Square (Trg Francoske Revolu-
cije), and this is Pleniks Napoleon Obelisk. There are
The next Plenik structure on this side of the river is some good cafs here, so its an excellent place to rest
the back-end of the Slovenian Philharmonic Concert your feet, get a drink and enjoy the view. Youre not far
Hall, which he designed with a rippled appearance to from the City Museum or the last Plenik building on
mimic the waves on the Ljubljanica. Now occupied by this walk, Krianke.
the Solist lounge bar, the structure is a good example
of the playfulness the architect was capable of, as well Krianke was Pleniks final major work in Ljubljana,
as his sensitivity to the environment, both natural and and makes a fitting end for this short journey through
built. Right next to the Philharmonic is a staircase that some his notable structures. For this project he was
Plenik also designed, and if youve been paying atten- tasked with turning an old monastery into a summer
tion then you might be able to spot it its the one theatre. The complex is a fascinating mix of elements
with a column. from different eras, giving the space its timeless feel,
and its hard to imagine it was only finished in 1956.
From whatever side of the river you approach it from,
Cobblers Bridge is our favourite in town. Its a striking Plenik made use of items from older buildings in the
work, with columns running along each side, and can city, recycling statues, window frames and other fea-
look especially beautiful at night. In mediaeval times it tures, and as you look around you should see much to
was known as Butchers Bridge, but the smell was so remind you of the other works seen on this walk. The
unpleasant those tradesmen were asked to leave and space is open to visitors and often hosts concerts, the
shoemakers took their place. Floods and fires then architecture providing a magical setting in which to ex-
meant numerous changes over the years, with Pleniks perience the right performance under the stars.
work finally taking shape in 1931. From here you can go
deeper into the old town, walk along the river into Breg,
or head off to the library and Krianke, the last two of
Pleniks monumental works in the city centre.

On this walk well assume you keep walking away from


the centre of town, stopping at New Square (Novi trg),
the one with a fountain, and then heading up to the
large, square building youll see after the end of the
square on the left, with a grey base of uneven stones,
red brick middle section and flat roof. Youll need to
walk along Turjaka ulica, passed the side of the build-
ing, and then turn left on Vegova ulica.

From the outside the National and University Library


can seem a little underwhelming, especially compared
to the nearby University of Ljubljana building, formerly
the Provincial Mansion, which can see by turning left
on Vegova. This faces Congress Square (Kongreski trg)
and runs for a whole block, with different designs on
each faade.

While at first glance the library may look like a rather


dull box, look closer and you should be able to see a
number of elements that mark this as a Plenik build-
ing. These include the three distinct levels to the outer
walls, and the mix of quarried stones with red bricks
and blocks recycled from older buildings, as well as the
column in the middle of the reading room windows. It
is inside, though, that the work reveals itself, as Plenik
www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket March - April 2017 19
Walking with Plenik
Ljubljana has a Plenik schtimmung.

Pleniks house has recently been renovated and won


an award for its new look. What are your thoughts?
Its beautifully done. Before, the house was charming but
there wasnt much of a museum to it, and you just took
a guided tour. Now there is a lot of extra didactic ma-
terialvisiting it is more of a meal. And you get a real
sense of the person who lived there. Plenik was very
quirky. He looked and acted like a mystic, with his long
white beard and tall black hat. He was an ascetic, keeping
to strict diets and water therapies. I love quirky characters
and his house helps to fill out a portrait of him. The City
Museums did a great job.

Do you have a favourite Plenik building in Ljubljana?


I think the atrium of NUK, the National and University
Library, is spectacular. Its covered in ink-dark stone, and
as you ascend the stairs, you enter the beautiful, warm,
Noah Charney (Photo by Urka Charney)
bright reading room, which is a very human size. Its a
nice metaphor for books and learning illuminating us all.
Noah Charney is a best-selling American author and professor of
art history who has lived in Slovenia for many years. A regular in Ljubljana has something of a Plenik fetish: recently
international media, whether for his books or his articles for ma- weve seen Plenik cups, tea, pens, even schnapps
jor foreign press, including The Guardian and The Washington
Post, he often writes on his adopted homeland, which he has Why not, right? Theres so much Mona Lisa merchandise,
called the worlds best country. He completed his PhD at Univer- so I think its great to promote Ljubljana and Plenik in
sity of Ljubljana on the subject of Slovenias genius loci, architect any way that works. I was actually thinking that it would
Joe Plenik. Since 2017 has been declared by Ljubljana Tourism be great if some artisan firm would produce Plenik-
as a Plenik-focused year, it seemed like a good time to catch up designed chairs. They are amazing, and I bet a Kickstarter
with the good doctor and ask him a few questions. project would take off. Hipsters from Brooklyn to Copen-
hagen would totally go for hand-crafted Plenik furniture.
When did you first encounter Plenik, and what
about his work made such a big impression? Rumour has it that you have a book on Plenik com-
When I first visited Slovenia, back in 2000 on a Eurailing ing out this year
trip, I was struck by his architecture. You cant help but Its true. My doctoral dissertation is being turned into a
notice it, since most of the major (and most interesting) beautifully-illustrated book. Its a scholarly biography of
buildings in Ljubljana are his handiwork. He was a unique Plenik and his work, specifically about why he made the
artist, someone who chose never to join a major move- decisions he did to forgo a higher-profile career in Vienna
ment (which is why people might not have heard of him, or Prague, and return to his homeland. It will be pub-
since he preferred to work in Slovenia, and was not a lished by the City Museums of Ljubljana and Totaliteta,
member of the biggest modernist movement, founded and be available in Slovene and English.
by Le Corbusier, CIAM, for instance). None of his pupils
approached his excellence, and I think its safe to say that And I hear this is not your only book coming out in
he is the greatest Slovenian artist in any medium. Ljublja- Slovenia this year
na is very lucky that his career corresponded with a time Yes, Ive been busy. In April, Beletrina will release an essay
of rebuildingthere was a bad earthquake in 1895 that collection, in Slovene and English, called Slovenology:
ruined around 15% of the city centre. He got most of the Living and Traveling in the Worlds Best Country. And in
biggest commissions for public buildings, and so theres a September, a novel I wrote long ago called To Catch the
real sense that Ljubljana is Pleniks town. He has stylistic Devil, which takes place in Slovenia (and which features
and atmospheric parallels with Antoni Gaudi, but Plenik Plenik as a character) will be published in a small, bou-
designed far more buildings in Ljubljana than Gaudi in tique print run. Itll be a Plenik-fest!
Barcelona. Plenik used to say that the Slovenian national
style was hard to define, but when he crossed the border Noah will be contributing regularly to In Your Pocket,
from Austria, he felt a Slovene schtimmung, which is a with new material in each issue this year, so stay tuned
great German word for which theres no ideal transla- for more. And to learn more about his work, you can visit
tion, but its basically a vibe or atmosphere. Well, for me, noahcharney.com or join him on Facebook.

20 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


1
Gornji trg 4

Old Town
lJUblJanas enTirely PedesTrianised old ToWn
cenTre has received an exTensive facelifT in
recenT years, and is once again The hearT
and soUl of The caPiTal ciTy

www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket March - April 2017 21


old Town
2 page 24

3 OPEN page 56/51


UNTIL
4AM
EVERY DAY
DJ

4 page 24
4
7

2
5 page 79
old Town
page 11 9

& Contempo

Open Kitchen

page 25 8

8
INFO
page 25
SHOP NOw! 7

TRAVEL
SHOP
1
5
Slovenska cesta 17

TOP10
SOUVENIRS

page 25
6

6
Coffee & Cakes
okoladni Atelje Dobnik
okoladnica Atelje Dobnik is a bright modern caf with a
great range of Lavazza coffees and teapigs tea. What sets it
apart from the rest however is the truly inspiring quality of
the sweet stuff on offer. We all love chocolate, and Dobniks
output truly is second to none. With over 20 years experi-
ence of perfecting the art of chocolate production as well as
receiving the sign of Ljubljana quality in 2010, there is no bet-
ter place for a sweet treat to compliment your morning cof-
Abi Falafel fee.QC3, Trg Republike 1, tel. +386 (0)1 425 31 41, info@
cokoladniatelje.si, www.cokoladniatelje.si. Open 09:00 -
21:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. PJUBW
Restaurants
Abi Falafel Bazilika Krianke
Located just around the corner from Ljubljanas famed The Bazilika family has expanded once more, and now has
Dragon Bridge, Abi Falafel was Slovenias first Middle East- a third home on the lovely French Revolution Square, just
ern snack bar and is still the best place in town to savour opposite the Krianke Summer Theatre, known for being
a delectable falafel sandwich. With other meatless dishes home to the Ljubljana Festival and host to some of Ljubljanas
including hummus and several salads, its a popular and most memorable concerts. As with their other branches
logical stop for vegetarians, and the menu also includes on Preernova and Mikloieva Cesta, the new location is a
other Arabic treats, such as shish kebab sandwiches, fa- gourmands paradise, with a menu of freshly prepared soups,
tayer (mini pies with various fillings), kibbeh (deep-fried, salads, sandwiches, sweet and savoury pies, smoothies and
breaded, minced-meat balls) and more. Just make sure to other delightful offerings, virtually all of which are vegetarian
save room for dessert, as there are always a selection of and most of which are also vegan. Of course you can also just
mouthwatering Arabic sweets and cardamom tea to finish drop by to enjoy a drink on the lively terrace.QTrg Franco-
off your meal.QE3, Trubarjeva 40, tel. +386 (0)41 64 01 ske Revolucije 5, tel. +386 (0)51 666 065, www.bazilika.
66, www.falafel.si. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Thu - Sat 09:00 - si. Open 07:30 - 23:00, Sun 07:30 - 17:00. . iJABS
01:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. . JA6UVGS
Divine
Chutys Heart of Asia Originally opened in 1934, for more than eight decades
Chutys offers some of Ljubljanas best Asian cuisine in a mod- the family-run Divine has been a popular destination for
ern, upscale setting, and just inside the door an aquarium of Ljubljanas residents to indulge their sweet tooths and
fresh lobsters and oysters greets guests. The majority of the soak up the romantic atmosphere of the lively riverside
dishes are Thai, and their authenticity is assured by the fact that embankment. Nowadays Divine remains as beloved as
the entire cooking staff is from Thailand. Non-Thai dishes, like ever, thanks in large part to their heavenly selection of
Kamchatka crab, Black Angus ribeye and tuna steaks, are pre- homemade cakes, ice cream and other desserts, as well as
pared with pan-Asian flavours and homemade sauces, while their prime people-watching location. Whenever we find
the quality of the wine list is no surprise given that two-time ourselves here, our order usually includes some bresaola-
Slovenian Sommelier of the Year Gaper arman helped put style cured beef (either by itself or in a sandwich) accom-
it together. The possibility of late night dining is also a rarity panied by a glass of wine from our favourite Slovene wine
in Ljubljana and much appreciated.QSlovenska 19, tel. +386 region. QD-3, Cankarjevo Nabreje 7, tel. +386 (0)1 252
(0)83 899 772/+386 (0)70 401 351, www.chutys.com. Open 72 07, www.kavarna-divine.si. Open 08:00-24:00. P
11:00-24:00 (kitchen 23:00), Sat 12:00-24:00 (kitchen 23:00), TJUGBSW
Sun 12:00-20:00. PJAB
Dobnik
pajza
An exceedingly classy affair with chunky, creaking wood-
en floors, a number of different rustic-feel rooms to eat in,
an extensive menu of Slovenian and international dishes,
and an antique silver cash register in the entrance. Locat-
ed on one of the old towns quaintest most photogenic
streets, its popular with many people including business
professionals, tourists and couples. During the summer
months they have one of the most romantic courtyards
in Ljubljana. QD-5, Gornji Trg 28, tel. +386 (0)1 425 30
94, info@spajza-lj.si, www.spajza-restaurant.si. Open
12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-22:00. JA6GBS
24 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
SHOPPING
Bags
The aptly named Bags store on Wolfova stocks three world
renowned and innovative brands, all of the highest qual-
ity. Amongst them is the Italian label, Mandarina Duck -
iconic for its varied styles, forms and colours, which follow
contemporary urban trends. For the young and young at
heart, Bags also offers Kipling, made of lightweight mate-
rials and great for everyday use. For those who are look-
ing for something innovative yet more traditional there is
Victorinox, which offers guaranteed durability, whether Bags
youre after a bag or one of their well-known Swiss army
knives. There is heaps more on offer, though youll have
to go have a look for yourselves.QC/D3, Wolfova 1, tel. Ikona Ljubljana
+386 (0)1 251 10 10, www.bags.si. Open 09:30 - 19:00, While its true that the shopping in Ljubljana is not
Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. quite up the standard seen London, New York or Paris,
a number of boutiques and larger stores are begin-
okoladnica Cukrek Mikloieva ning to narrow the gap, and among these is undoubt-
okoladnica Cukrek has several branches in the city, edly Ikona. Located in the heart of the old town in a
with this one being opposite the Hotel Union. Its a well- very attractive building opposite City Hall, Ikona has
stocked chocolate store with items such as Ljubljana fashion brands for men and women, with clothing,
dragons in souvenir boxes, fruit covered in chocolate and shoes, accessories, perfumes, make-up and more. So
even chocolate flavoured with salt. There are also pralines, while enjoying the charm of Ljubljanas cobbled lanes
marzipan sticks, candies for diabetics and, most intrigu- you can also step off the streets and catch up on the
ingly, Preerens chocolate balls, named in honour of the latest styles from a list of international designers and
national poet.QD -3, Mikloieva 4, tel +386 (0)1 421 brands, such as New Balance, Chiara Ferragni, Reli-
04 53, info@benedict.si, www.cukrcek.si. Open 09:00- gion, Imperial, Nicce London, Moschino, M Missoni,
20:00, Sun 10:00-19:00. Nude, and Jijil.QMestni Trg 24, tel. +386 (0)59 342
800, www.ikonaljubljana.si. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Fri,
Dekanter Sat 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
Dekanter may not be the largest wine shop in town in fact
were pretty sure its the smallest but as we once heard Info Travel Shop
someone say: its not the size that counts, its how you use it. If you were wondering what it would be like if the team
And Anja and Janez, the friendly couple who run the place, behind these fantastic Ljubljana In Your Pocket guides
definitely make the most of the space, stocking an excellent ever opened their own shop / info point / office in the
selection of wine carefully chosen from Slovenias best small heart of the city centre, then head on over to Slovenska 17
producers, including Sveti Martin, Bati, Edi Simi, Sosoli, in the arcade opposite Kongresni Trg to find out. In addi-
Klinec and Mansus. In addition to the wine, theres an as- tion to a limitless supply of In Your Pocket guides as well
sortment of goat, sheep and cow cheeses, as well as high as other travel books and maps we publish, youll find our
quality schnapps. A store that sells time, not just wine, and personal selection of premium Slovene souvenirs, includ-
has open tastings each Thursday at 20:00. QD-4, Gornji Trg ing gourmet chocolate, Hrastnik crystal, our favourite wine
10, tel. +386 (0)68 675 445, vino.dekanter@gmail.com, and the Goat Mugs made famous on Kickstarter.QSloven-
http://dekanter.wix.com/wineboutiquedekanter. Open ska 17, www.the-slovenia.com.
16:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.

Cutty Sark nightlife


Cutty Sark
One of the most popular bars in the city and fre-
quented by all manner of locals and expats, Cutty Sark
provides two dark bars and a summer terrace, childish
art on the walls, model ships and the worlds biggest
chewing gum machine. Featuring a good selection
of local and international beer, find it bursting with
interesting specimens most evenings.QB3, Knafljev
Prehod 1, tel. +386 (0)83 859 144/+386 (0)51 686
209, www.cuttysarkpub.si. Open 08:00 - 03:00,
Mon, Tue, Sun 08:00 - 01:00. PT J A 6 U E
GB X S W
www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket March - April 2017 25
Where to Eat

Yes Ljubljana does bubble tea and tasty modern Asian food, head to TLOFT (Photo: Tina Mentol)

presented, and on our visit we were lucky enough to


Slovenian sample the pork ribs with kimchi and pears, followed
In a way, theres no such thing as Slovenian food - with by brown butter ice cream. Tasting menus are avail-
sheep and cows on its mountain pastures giving meat and able for those wanting to explore further, and there
milk products, the Mediterranean providing fresh seafood, are private dining rooms that can be booked for more
and with influences from the Balkans, Austria and Italy, privacy, while the bar is well-stocked and nicely lit,
you might as well call it world cuisine. One thing that is making Atelje ideal for date-nights or business. Guests
unique is the gostilna, the traditional, rustic, family-owned also enjoy free parking in the hotel garage.QD3,
Slovenian inn providing affordable and honest homemade Nazorjeva 2, tel. +386 (0)1 308 1907, www.union-
food that would make your granny grin. hotels.eu. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sat 18:00 - 22:00.
Closed Sun.
Aroma
Located in the citys oldest house, dating from 1528, this Druga Violina
has already become a popular choice for visitors to Lju- Druga violina specialises in good locally grown produce,
bljana. Aroma has a diverse menu offering traditional a simple short menu of Slovene classics and a top loca-
Slovene dishes, as well as almost anything else you might tion in the citys old town, but theres a twist in the tale
fancy - from steaks and pizzas to salads and desserts - as with the other violin (as the English translation of the
well as a good selection of quality Slovene wines. Break- name goes). Its actually a project for people with dis-
fast specials look good too. Almost as hard as choosing abilities, who produce much of the food on a farmland
what to order is deciding whether to sit inside under the near Ljubljana and also work as waiting staff in the res-
beautiful vaulted ceilings or outside in prime position be- taurant itself. Come and see what its all about, while
side the Ljubljanica river.QD3, Ribji Trg 2, tel. +386 (0)31 enjoying one of the fresh local dishes either in the rustic
30 70 30, www.aroma-ljubljana.si. Open 08:00 - 24:00. dining room or on the delightful cobbled pavement out-
PiJABW side, voted Best Restaurant Summer Terrace by In Your
Pocket readers.QD4, Stari Trg 21, tel. +386 (0)82 05 25
Atelje 06, www.center-db.si. Open 08:00 - 24:00. PJ A
Decked out in browns of brick and wood, Atelje is a UB W
bar and restaurant with a classy, understated feel, as
youd expect from it being part of the Grand Union Florjankov Hram
Hotel. A short and often changing menu re-imagines A sleek modern hotel and a traditional Slovene gostilna
classic dishes, all masterfully prepared and beautifully might seem like an odd pairing, but Florjankov Hram,
26 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Where to Eat
located just north of Ljubljana proves that it works.
With a tradition dating back to 1792, the inn knows
a thing or two about hospitality. The family-run res-
taurant is a great place to try homely Slovene cuisine,
whilst seasonal specials showcase premium local ingre-
dients. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner (res-
ervations required Sat and Sun), the restaurant is also
a perfect choice for parties, with private rooms avail-
able upon request and comfortable hotel rooms should
guests overdo it on Florjankovs fine food and wine.
QL-1, Dunajska 238, tel. +386 (0)1 56 83 859, www.
florjanckovhram.si/. Open 07:00 - 22:00. PiH Ai Traka cesta 330,
LGKW 1000 Ljubljana
T : +386 1 200 91 00
GOSTILNA PRI KOLOVRATU
Gostilna Pri kolovratu has been a restaurant since 1836, GOSTILNA GORjANC
and today it still offers traditional Ljubljana food. This With over two centuries of tradition (it was officially opened
includes dishes like slow-cooked veal and Vodnik salad, for business in 1813), Gorjanc is one of the longest running
from the first Slovenian cookbook, published in 1799. traditional Slovenian restaurants around Ljubljana, but at
There are also daily specials showing the more Mediter- the same time its also one of the newest, as it underwent
ranean side of Slovenian cooking, with everything very extensive restoration and modernisation at the same time
reasonably priced for the Old Town location, just oppo- the G Design Hotel was built next door. Along with the
site the Cathedral. If you dont have time for a meal we standard hearty Slovenian fare, such as blood sausages and
recommend trying some of the coffee or hot chocolate sauerkraut with pork fat cracklings, the menu makes room
drinks, among the best in the city, along with a cake or for various refined fish, pastas, salads and other gourmet
dessert. Whatever you order, in good weather be sure to dishes. On weekdays there are lunch specials on offer that
check out the little courtyard at the back.QD-3, Ciril- can be seen in advance on its website.QH-5, Traka 330,
Metodov Trg 14, tel. +386 (0)1 620 98 84. Open 08:00 tel. +386 (0)1 423 11 11, www.gdesignhotel.si. Open
- 22:00. 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. PTALW

www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket March - April 2017 27


Where to Eat
GOSTILNA ESTICA
estica been in business since 1776, and is an ideal setting
to explore traditional Slovenian cuisine. All the famous
dishes are on the menu, along with many less well-known
items and wines from each of the countrys regions, as well
as a wood-fired oven and grill. As the oldest restaurant in
town its long-played host to local artists, writers and poli-
ticians, and in addition to the central dining area has a set
of smaller rooms and corners to relax and discuss business

t:00386
or pleasure in. We usually head to one of the backroom
tables to enjoy a steak and few glasses of teran. Find it
just across from the rather small Nebotinik skyscraper on

(0)1 24 20 855 Slovenska cesta.QC-3, Slovenska cesta 40, tel. +386 (0)1
242 0855, www.sestica.si. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00
- 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00.

GUTERIjA
With the aim of serving traditional Slovenian cuisine us-
ing the best local ingredients, chef Joe Bukovinski ap-
plies modern methods to dishes grandmothers have
been making for years. Set near the river and a short walk
beyond the old town, this is a family-friend place with a
kids playground and ice-cream garden, but one that also
suits business lunches and more formal events. In addition
to regional classics there are items made on a Big Green
Egg Grill, and a vegetarian menu thats no afterthought,
including vegan options. Reasonably priced, with main
dishes from around 6-20, there are weekly brunch and
lunch menus, as well as a la carte. We recommend looking
online to see what theyve got today.QHrenova ulica 19,
traditional tel. +386 (0)59 927 385, www.gusterija.si. Open 09:00
- 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. . TAi

Slovenian
BW

GjINA

cuisine Voted by our readers as the best Slovenian restaurant in


Ljubljana fon multiple ocassions, Gjina offers traditional
cuisine from the region of Prekmurje, which is situated
in the far northeastern corner of the country and heavily
influenced by neighbouring Hungary, Austria and Croa-
tia. One100
of the most typical dishes is the award-winning
bogra, a thick meaty stew that comes served in a large
copper95kettle, while the multi-layered cake known as
gibanica is easily the best in the city and an absolute must
for dessert. Check the chalkboard or ask your waiter for the
75
daily specials. QD-4, Mestni Trg 19, tel. +386 (0)8 380 64
46, info@prekmurska-gostilna.si, www.prekmurska-
gostilna.si. Open 08:00-24:00. PJAB

Slovenska cesta 40 NEW 25


jAKOB FRANC
Ljubljana Much has been happening in the Ljubljana dining scene
5 one of the most interesting new restaurants to
lately and
open has been Gostilna Jakob Franc. A short walk from
the centre
0 by the river in Trnovo, wed describe this very
sophisticated little restaurant as innovatively traditional.
www.sestica.si Perhaps that is an oxymoron, but what we are trying to
say is its mighty impressive how Jakob Franc are celebrat-
ing and elevating classic Slovene food. The restaurant is
28 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Where to Eat
unashamedly a temple to pork, specifically a very special
native Slovene breed of Blackbelted piggy, which has ab-
solutely delicious fat - make sure to try the Lardo. Jakob
Franc also have a superb selection of mainly Slovene and
Italian wines.QD5, Trnovski pristan 4a, tel. +386 (0)40
897 153. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. .
PJABK

Kmeki Hram
Short of getting invited to a local grandmothers house, the
family-run Kmeki Hram is simply one of the best places to
try traditional Slovenian cuisine during your stay in Ljubljana.
Not only is the home-cooked food authentic, delicious and
served in generous portions, but the restaurant is located
amongst fields and farmland in the neighbourhood-cum-
village of Tomaevo, giving diners the atmosphere of Slove-
nian countryside only 5km north of the city centre. Popular
with locals out for a family lunch, businessmen entertaining
guests from abroad and pretty much everyone in between,
for short-term visitors the premises also double as a guest-
house, with some 17 rooms available. QM-2, Tomaevska
50, tel. +386 (0)1 560 70 00, penzion.kmeckihram@
siol.net, www.kmeckihram.si. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. PTALBW

Kuhinja Krui
Aside from the Euro, nothing has stirred up more dis-
agreement amongst Europeans in recent years than
horse meat - Slovenia being one of the countries where
people largely have no problem with horses finding their
way onto kitchen tables. Like-minded visitors in Ljubljana
will thus surely want to add the family-run Krui to their
itinerary. Operating a butchery for over a century, its one
of the countrys top suppliers of horse meat, which also
dominates the menu in various different forms at the
restaurant on the same premises. Various appetisers,
stews, cured meats and of course steaks from horse are
on offer here, all of which can be enjoyed in the charm-
ing little dining room or taken away.QL3, Bezenkova
11, tel. +386 (0)1 544 61 41, www.mesarstvo-krusic.
si. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Thu 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sat,
Sun. LS

Mediterraneo
This rustic themed restaurant in the centre of the old
town, opposite the cathedral, is a perfect place to take
a break from sightseeing and taste some authentic fla-
vours of Ljubljana. Much of Mediterraneos menu is
devoted to traditional Slovene cuisine, as well as rein-
terpreted local classics, like the signature dish - the Lju-
bljana cannonball, a decadent dish of crumbed chicken
stuffed with prosciutto, peanuts and kajmak (a rich fresh
cheese). As the restaurants name suggests, Mediterra-
nean influences also feature prominently, particularly in
the great selection of cold starters and seasonal lunch
specials. Mediterraneo also offer good coffee, light
breakfasts, fairly priced wines and friendly service.QD3,
Ciril Metodov Trg 16, tel. +386 (0)64 226 777. Open
08:00 - 23:00. iJ A B K W
www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket March - April 2017 29
Where to Eat

PRI KOFU STRELEC


Hidden down a small side street in Krakovo, Pri kofu is a long- Perched high up in the archers tower, Ljubljana castles
time favourite of local university students who like to enjoy a new restaurant overlooks the city from a grand position. A
proper homecooked meal from time to time. The 8 lunch combination of the Roman Emona, Medieval and modern in
specials come in large portions and are a great town, with terms of both cuisine and ambiance, the menu was created
most herbs and vegetables coming from neighbourhood with the help of top ethnology professor Dr Janez Bogataj.
gardens or the countryside just outside Ljubljana. Its also pos- Historically reminiscent dishes of slick gourmet modernity
sible to order a la carte, and an English-speaking waitress will are crafted with ingredients from Ljubljanas famed market
gladly inform you of what seasonable specialties are available. by the star of the show: Igor Jagodic. Recognised as one
Theres a wide selection of Slovene wines, as well as beers of the top three chefs in Slovenia, he was previously at the
that you cant find anywhere else in town.QC-5, Rena 8, tel. renowned Vila Bled, and now takes care of the sublime of-
+386 (0)1 426 45 08. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - ferings at Strelec.QD-4, Grajska Planota 1, tel. +386 (0)31
24:00. Closed Mon. . TJA6UBW 687 648, www.kaval-group.si. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat
11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. PJALB
KRNICLj
Well be honest, weve always considered BTC City as some-
thing of Slovenias Mecca of capitalistic indulgence, a sort of asian
overcompensation for the lean years of Yugoslavia, which CESARSKO MESTO
makes it all the more surprising to find this truly delightful A big, brightly-coloured, and certainly kitschy beacon lo-
and refreshingly authentic eatery tucked away here. The cated some 3km east of the city centre, this Chinese res-
affable proprietor Andrej adheres to a strict policy of using taurant keeps its parking lot full as their ever-smiling staff
only fresh local ingredients without any artificial additives or serves a steady stream of hungry locals. The menu focuses
preservatives, and you wont find better tasting traditional on Mongolian and Tibetan specialties and offers Slove-
spoon-eaten dishes such as pasulj, riet, turnip jota or beef nian beverages as well as Chinese and Tibetan drinks. Just
goulash anywhere in town. Check the black board behind down the street from BIT Hotel and easily reached from
the counter, or their Facebook page, for the daily specials. the ring road, the trip here is worth it if youre craving au-
QM-3, martinska 152, Trnica BTC, tel. +386 (0)40 537 thentic East Asian cuisine.QM-4, Litijska 76, tel. +386 (0)1
343, www.skrniclj.si. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 544 4500, www.cesarsko-mesto.si. Open 12:00 - 23:00.
15:00. Closed Sun, Closed from 1 - 16 August. . PLS PAUGBS
30 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Slovenian amazing . . Culinary spoiling . .

www.visitljubljana.com

www.KAVAL-GROUP.si
info: rok.hribar@kaval-group.si

STRELEC RESTAURANT
id
gu di
vo

e
pi lni
op va
ng
sh po
d ku
an na

caffe
Fuinski grad
n
ou i i
n
i

t
ar
in
Where to Eat
Tloft
Yes Ljubljana there is more to international food than
burgers and we cant tell you how happy we are that
Tloft has entered the local dining scene offering some-
thing completely different, namely, casual and modern
Asian. The select menu is perfect for a quick lunch or
light dinner (or not so light on all-you-can eat sushi
night). Grab a plate of fried noodles, fresh sushi perhaps
or some tasty dumplings and snacks - we are obsessed
with the Momofuku inspired pulled pork steamed
buns. Living up to its name Tloft has one of the best
range of teas in town and is the place to enjoy an au-
thentic chinese tea ceremony or be adventurous and
have a bubble tea.QC2, Gosposvetska 4, tel. +386
(0)31 412 803. Open 07:00 - 22:00, Sat 11:00 - 22:00.
Closed Sun. PJ A S W

Tokyo Piknik
Despite what the name may suggest, Tokyo Piknik offers
a whole range of Asian cuisine as well as more recogni-
sable Western dishes. With plenty of outdoor seating by
the river, it represents another excellent option for a casual
afternoon lunch or an atmospheric evening meal, another
string to Ljubljanas growing bow of Asian food. It also
happens to be the only real ramen bar in Slovenia, and all
the noodles you will gorge on are completely hand-made.
Regardless of the time of day, the desserts are wonder-
Lemongrass marinated grilled Black Angus beef fillet with snow peas ful, both the taste and the aesthetics. QD-4, Cankarjevo
and taro (Shambala) Nabreje 25, tel. +386 (0)30 60 88 08, romeo.plus@
siol.net, www.tokyopiknik.com. Open 09:00-24:00.
Shambala JAB
Not only does Shambalas kitchen turn out some of the
best (and spiciest) Asian cuisine in Slovenia, but the
tranquil, almost meditative, ambience of the place al- Balkan
lows you to enjoy your meal in a state of perfect relax- Balkan Express
ation - with some of the best service in town thrown What better way to deal with an exhausting day of shop-
in as an added benefit. During the warmer months, ping than hoeing into a big plate of juicy evapii. Thank-
diners can also take advantage of the pleasant little fully Balkan Express at the first floor dining area in City
garden that is tucked away in one of the buildings Park BTC has us covered with a solid range of Balkan fa-
inner courtyards. Situated down a narrow alleyway vourites from smoky grills meats to burek and make sure
off Breg, this hidden gem is definitely worth finding. to leave room for baklava. And if you dont want to go to
QC4, Krievnika 12, tel. +386 (0)1 426 30 14/+386 BTC but have a craving for pleskavica, Balkan Express also
(0)31 843 833, www.shambala.si. Open 12:00 - 24:00. delivers throughout Ljubljana seven days a week.QM3,
Closed Sun. . PT J A G B K martinska 152g, tel. +386 (0)41 390 500, www.balkan-
express.si/. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00.
Thai Inn Pub PVS
With bright wallpaper, bamboo adornments, Thai statues
and a bric-a-brac of other Asian-themed decorations, youll Gostilna ad
get a good taste of what visiting a real Thai restaurant is like. When you ask locals to name their favourite Balkan res-
Thai Inn Pub forgoes the ultra elegant, westernised take on taurant in Ljubljana, ad is one of the most frequently
both the atmosphere and their food, and the result is Thai heard answers. Situated by Ronik Hill around corner
food that tastes like Thai food. If youre concerned about from Tivoli Park, its also the longest-running restaurant
having food that will leave your mouth on fire, you neednt of its kind in town, and guests can dine in the shady gar-
worry, as the menu clearly explains the degree of spiciness, den surrounded by nature or in the rustic homey interi-
and there are also more than 50 beers on hand to help sooth or. Specialising in spit and grilled dishes, the beefsteaks,
your taste buds.QB4, Rimska 17, tel. +386 (0)1 421 03 77, grilled peppers and ranjii skewers all come highly rec-
www.thaipub.si. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00. ommended.QJ3, Cesta Na Ronik 18, tel. +386 (0)1
Closed Sun, Pub open 08:00-24:00, Sat 10:00-00:00. (All 251 34 46, www.gostilna-cad.si. Open 11:00 - 23:00.
mains 6.90). PJA6UGKS (5-15). PT J A U ILEGBX S W
32 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Where to Eat
GOSTILNICA RIO-MOMO there are weekly set lunches, while dinner consists of
Situated between the central post office and Kon- a heavenly 7-course chefs choice tasting menu. The
gresni Trg on the citys main thoroughfare, weve drinks list is equally impressive, with superbly paired
never found the exterior to be the most inviting wines, specially produced own-label craft beer and
but once you get inside its actually quite warm and carbonated tap water on draught. Even locals will
cosy. The thick leather covers on the menus portend want to drop by in the morning and try their special
the ample selection of grilled meat dishes within, Ljubljana Breakfast.QGosposka 9, tel. +386 (0)40 431
although vegetarians have a handful of a pastas 123, www.monstera.si. Open 08:30 - 17:00, Thur-Sat
and salads to choose from as well. On your way in 08:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun and holidays. Reservations
dont forget to check the table outside for flyers highly recommended for dinner. . P J A
entitling you to a free glass of wine.QC-3, Sloven-
ska 28, tel. +386 (0)31 751 751/+386 (0)14 25 32
26, www.riomomo.si. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (6-19). indian
P TJA U S W NAMAST
Set along the beautifully redeveloped Breg riverside
walk in the old town, Namast is the longest running
gourmet Indian restaurant in all of Slovenia, and offers one of
MONSTERA BISTRO Ljubljanas most romantic dining experiences of any
Much to the delight of local foodies (ourselves in- flavour - with soft yellow hued lighting, hand-paint-
cluded), the neo-bistro concept, where a classically- ed walls and a relaxed cosy atmosphere. The house
trained chef leaves behind a grand, often Michelin- specialties are dishes from the Rajastan and Punjab
starred restaurant to pursue a unique culinary vision regions, which are prepared individually with spices
at their own establishment, has officially come to directly imported from the subcontinent and can be
Ljubljana. Bine Voli, one of the best-known chefs in ordered mild to extra hot. Sometimes we like to stop
the country, and his wife Katarina run the lovely little by just to savour a cup of spicy masala chai.QC/D-4,
Monstera, cheekily named for the tropical plant that Breg 8, tel. +386 (0)14 25 01 59, fax +386 (0)1 236
was ubiquitous during Yugoslav times - alluding to the 20 27, www.restavracija-namaste.si. Open 11:00 -
fusion of nostalgic tradition and modernity that is the 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (5-21). PT J A 6 i
trademark of Bines cooking. In lieu of a la carte options U G BX S

One of a kind! 120 years of tradition


120 years or premium quality
...........................................................
Cesta na Ronik 18, Ljubljana
Opening time- Every day 11:00-23:00
phone +386 (0)1 251 34 46
www.gostilna-cad.si

www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket March - April 2017 33


Where to Eat
international
AS APERITIVO
The more casual dining wing of the legendary Gostilna As
next door, Aperitivo is one of the top choices for business
lunches, light snacks and afterwork drinks in the city centre.
Inspired by the giant tree that still grows through the middle
of it, the building was completely rebuilt in 2011, now con-
sisting of a large airy space on the ground floor with a float-
ing terrace above, all of which is furnished with creations by
some of the top names in design. For price-conscious din-
ers there are gourmet daily set menus starting from only 8,
while the excellent full a la carte menu focuses on Mediter-
ranean cuisine and steaks.QC-3, opova 5a, Knafljev Pre-
hod, tel. +386 (0)1 425 41 68, www.gostilnaas.si. Open
10:00 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. JAEBW GOSTILNA AS
One of Slovenias first truly world class restaurants when it
BISTRO zVEzdA opened its doors in the centre of Ljubljana some two decades
Located in the heart of Ljubljanas city centre on Kongresni ago, in the years since it hasnt missed a beat, still serving some
Trg, and Zvezda Park (and conveniently above a shiny new of the very best Mediterranean-inspired cuisine in the city. For
subterranean parking garage), Bistro is fine place to both us the true standouts on the menu are the fantastic seafood
dine and people watch. While the restaurant is minimal- specialities (both starters and main courses), but you also cant
ist in dcor, its menu of gourmet lunches and light snacks go wrong with the steaks, grilled to order on an open-fire.
are nothing if not decadent, and its sophisticated wine list When in doubt, you can rely on the friendly and professional
is complimented by an ample selection of cocktails for staff for recommendations, as well as guidance with the equally
those wishing to drop by for an after work or late night superb wine list. A must for lovers of extravagant dining!QC-3,
tipple. QC-3, Kongresni Trg 3, tel. +386 (0)1 421 90 91, opova 5a (Knafljev Prehod), tel. +386 (0)1 425 88 22, www.
www.zvezdaljubljana.si. Open Mon - Sat 12:00 - 24:00. gostilnaas.si. Open 12:00 - 01:00. PJAGBK
JAS
HOTEL CUBO RESTAURANT
For fine modern dining right in the heart of the city centre,
look no further than the ground floor of Hotel Cubo. Just
steps away from some of Ljubljanas top cultural venues
(Cankarjev Dom, Drama Theatre and the Slovenian Philhar-
monic) Cubo is a popular choice for a pre- or post-perfor-
mance dinner. The tranquil interior and professional service
also makes it a common destination for important business
lunches, while gourmet cuisine is creatively prepared with
the freshest ingredients, and complimented by an exquisite
wine list. Free kerbside valet service and shuttles for groups
of four or more guests are added bonuses.QC-4, Slovenska
15, tel. +386 (0)1 425 60 30, www.hotelcubo.com. Open
12:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. PJALW

jB
After more than 25 years in the business JB is firmly entrenched
as one of the best restaurants in town, with this fine-dining
experience coming courtesy of founder and multiple award-
winning head chef, Janez Bratov (hence the name). Located
in one of Joe Pleniks more imposing secessionist-style build-
ings, JB attracts a mix of well-to-do locals and visiting foodies.
The menu is comprised entirely of seasonal specialities, with
daily changes depending on what the chef has found in the
market that morning. Expect the best ingredients, cooked with
respect and a mastery of technique. Allow around 3 hours for
the 11-course tasting menu. The only downside is the price,
which can easily top 50 per person without wine.QD-1,
BISTRO Kongresni trg 3
www.zvezdaljubljana.si www.facebook.si/zvezdaljubljana Mikloieva 19, tel. +386 (0)1 430 70 70, www.jb-slo.com.
Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 17:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PJA
34 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Where to Eat
Mala Terasa
Mala Terasa, or little terrace, is a fantastic, youthful bis- J URCICEV TRG 3
tro with a satisfying menu of soups, rice dishes, salads, 1000 L JUBLJANA
burgers, desserts and more, all very reasonably priced +386 40 349 329
and made with fresh, local ingredients. Perched on the
info@paninoteka.si
first floor of the City Centre complex above the newly www.paninoteka.si
renovated Slovenska Cesta, next time you pass by be
sure to pop in and check out the daily specials and set
BREAKFASTS
lunches (also available to go), as well as the view of the
city, from the terrace or inside, including the iconic PASTA
Nebotinik skyscraper.QC3, Ajdovina 1, tel. +386 MEAT DISHES
(0)31 303 777, www.malaterasa.com. Open 11:00 - BURGERS
17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. SALADS
SLOVENIAN DISHES
Marley & Me
Acres of stripped pine, friendly professional service Paninoteka Restaurant
and one of the best kitchen smells in the city, this in- A long-time favourite of ours, Paninoteka is a cosy place
timate bistro-type restaurant comes highly recom- with a great old town location on a medieval square next
mended. Standouts from the small yet varied menu to Cobblers Bridge, offering wonderful views of the castle
include the large and tasty salads, delicious pastas, directly above the terrace. The menu includes both Slo-
traditional Slovenian food and some truly memorable venian and Italian cuisine, including excellent homemade
meat and fish dishes. Be warned though, the place is gnocchi and ravioli, as well as some truly succulent steaks
immensely popular, and waiting for a table during and meal-sized fresh salads, all of which are compliment-
the day is a common occurrence.QD4, Stari Trg 9, ed by award-winning local wine, and beer from Slovenia,
tel. +386 (0)8 380 66 10/+386 (0)40 564 188, www. Belgium and England. They also do great, filling break-
marleyandme.si. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (3-22) . fasts, and of course you can still find the best sandwiches
PJ A 6UGBXSW in town here.QC/D4, Juriev Trg 3, tel. +386 (0)40 349
329. Open 08:00 - 24:00. . PJABW
Italian
Mirje Italian Restaurant Mediterranean
Mirje combines a sleek, contemporary ambiance with Altrok
quality traditional Italian cuisine at reasonable prices. This elegant restaurant and wine bar is a great place to
The soft lighting, beige walls and futuristic mirrored light enjoy a drink and gourmet nibbles while soaking up the
fixtures create a pleasant setting to savour the outstand- atmosphere of Ljubljanas Old Town - either outside on
ing dishes, such as succulent steaks from the Green Egg the narrow cobbled street or inside under the restored
grill, a wide selection of fresh handmade pastas, superb red brick ceilings and glowing Edison lights. The menu
salads and piping hot pizzas from the wood-fired oven. is focussed on traditional cuisine from the coastal region
Theres also a large outdoor seating area, which is covered of Istria, with a diverse selection of hot and cold dishes
in the colder months and plays host to an open grill in the that all pair well with the extensive wine list, the latter
summer. Located just across the street from the Tobana coming as no surprise since the place happens to be run
Mesto cultural and business centre, a few minutes walk by Matja ok of the winemaking ok family, who also
from the old town will get you here.QA4, Traka 5, tel. supply the olive oil and brandies.QD4, Stari Trg 19, tel.
+386 (0)1 426 60 15, restavracija-mirje.si. Open 11:00 - +386 (0)82 055 282, www.altroke.si. Open 11:00 -
22:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00. PLB 01:00 (kitchen 12:00 - 23:00). . PJ A B

www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket March - April 2017 35


Where to Eat

PrNoni the service is friendly and its refreshingly unpretentious,


Just outside the ring road in Vi, Oterija Pr Noni is an el- offering actually very good value menus - especially, the
egant oasis set beside a stream offering one of Ljubljanas early light lunches (malice in Slovene), more substantial
most delightful dining experiences. Pr Nonis popularity 3-5 course lunch menus and traditional weekend lunches.
(pays to book ahead) also rests on its delicious Mediterra- QCesta v Gorice 1, tel. +386 (0)1 242 58 20. Open 10:30 -
nean cuisine featuring excellent seasonal ingredients, fresh 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00.
local seafood and perfectly grilled meats as well as one of
Ljubljanas best wine lists. Despite its incredibly classy feel, TaBar
This ultra-modern new concept restaurant and bar com-
bines Slovenian-style tapas with an excellent selection
EDITORS PICK of wines from some of the countrys top producers. The
menu has a strong Mediterranean influence, featuring
Deela Okusov everything from tender prosciutto and salami to roasted
Sitting amongst the restaurants and bars along octopus and baked shrimp - all prepared with fresh lo-
Eipprova in Trnovo, there is a lot to like about this cal ingredients in an open kitchen, where you can watch
gastropub. Deela Okusov has a meaty menu of the magic happen if youre lucky enough to find an open
Slovenian and international dishes, with grilled seat. For those adverse to making decisions, there are
and smoked meats a speciality, such as 12-hour three- and five-course tasting menus selected by the chef
slow-cooked, pulled pork poutine. Its ideal pub (our preferred option), while many patrons simply drop
food, pairing perfectly with the good selection of in to sample a few glasses of wine. D-3, Ribji Trg 6, tel.
Slovenian and imported beers on offer. The cosy +386 (0)31 764 063, info@tabar.si, www.tabar.si. Open
interior and hearty food will warm up customers up Mon-Wed 10:00-24:00, Thu-Sat 10:00-01:00. Closed Sun.
in winter, whilst on a nice day the street terrace is PT J A 6 U G B W
the place to be. Unusual for Slovenia, Deela Okusov
also roasts its own coffee.QC5, Eipprova 11, tel.
+386 (0)1 283 92 88, www.dezela-okusov.si. Pizza
Open 11:30 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. P6 Foculus
GB K X W Magnificently decorated once youre through the
slightly out of place automatic doors, with autumn
36 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Where to Eat
leaves painted on the vaulted ceilings and red, yellow
and orange plates built into the roof of the large wood-
fired pizza oven. The large and busy Foculus specialises
in 66 varieties of pizza, including 20 for vegetarians
and eight with seafood. The salads are also particularly
good. The place can get rather hectic in the evenings,
so dont be surprised if you have to wait a few minutes
for a table.QC-4, Gregorieva 3, tel. +386 (0)1 421 92
95, www.foculus.si. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (5.70-8.40).
PTJA6UGBSW

PARMA
A quirky little one, this. As well as a couple of or-
dinary tables, most dining here is done at the large
bar from where the food is cooked and served. Find
an empty stool, make your order and away you go.
And while youre waiting for your pizza to arrive,
take a look at the large photographs on the wall of
the construction of the area youre eating in. Find it
hidden away down the stairs and on the right at the
southern end of Maxi Market.QB/C-4, Trg Republike
2, tel. +386 (0)1 426 82 22. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sat
11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. (3.90-6.20). TJ A i
6GBXSW

TRTA
Trta is the most frequently heard answer to the ques-
tion: Who makes the best pizza in Ljubljana? - and not
without good reason. Its wood-fired oven churns out
some truly delectable pies, which tend to be a bit more
substantial than most of the thin-crusted competition.
Our personal favourite is probably the Toskanska, with
rocket and pancetta among other toppings, but with
over 40 different pizzas crowding onto the menu you
wont be left wanting for choices. Located in a yellow
house along the right bank a short walk south of the
city centre, Trta comes highly recommended. QD-5,
Grudnovo Nabreje 21, tel. +386 (0)1 426 50 66, trta@
s5.net, www.trta.si. Open 11:00-22:00, Sat 12:00-
22:00. Closed Sun. PAG BS

QuiCk eats
BROdO
No, thats not a new Apple Store thats opened at
street level of the Metalka building, its Brodo, Ljublja-
nas trendiest sandwich shop. The minimalist aesthet-
ics are matched by an equally sparse menu, with only
five different sandwiches to chose from. However,
each of them are small culinary works of art, with so
much flavour packed between the brown, bagel-like
bread that we have no qualms calling them the best
sandwiches in town. Be warned that developing a
Brodo addiction wont be easy on the wallet though,
as they tip the scales at 5 each a bit pricey by Slo-
vene standards, but well-worth it in our book for the
exceptional taste and quality.QC-2, Dalmatinova 2,
tel. +386 (0)40 549 440. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. . P J S
www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket March - April 2017 37
Where to Eat

i n d i a n e x p r e s s

Trubarjeva 31, 1000 Ljubljana

typical slovenian sausage i n d i Mon.-Fri.:


a n e x p7.30
Open:
r e- 21.00
s s Sat.: 8.00 - 20.00
www.klobasarna.si Sunday & holidays closed

FRENCH STYLE AK with the famed sausage. Open to 23:00 until January
Located under the hulking Ajdovina building just off 7.QD-3, Ciril-Metodov 15, tel. +386 (0)51 605 017, www.
a busy crossroads, this French-style bakery whips up klobasarna.si. Open 10:00 - 121:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00,
namaste_express_oglas_IYP_60x45.indd 19. 04. in
16 20.20
tasty snacks that, judging by the constant lines, tempt summer open till 23:00. JS
a fair number of workers from the surrounding offices to
extend their smoke breaks. Their freshly-prepared vien- NAMASTE INdIAN ExPRESS
noiseries, gourmet bread, sandwiches and salads cost As the name suggests, Namaste Indian Express is the
slightly more than the pre-packaged brands found in stripped down off spring of its parent restaurant, Na-
all the supermarkets, but are well-worth the premium. maste, which was the very first to bring cuisine from the
QC-2, Dalmatinova 2, tel. +386 (0)1 230 84 74, www. subcontinent to Slovenia all the way back in 2003. Locat-
pekarna-zak.si. Open 06:30 - 19:00, Sat 06:30 - 13:00. ed just around the corner from the famed Dragon Bridge,
Closed Sun. 0.50 - 3.00. J S the Express branch offers a wide variety of inexpensive
wraps and other filled-bread options, such as romali roti,
KLOBASARNA dosai, uttapam, tawa paratha and samosa, all of which
Its not often you find a restaurant where the menu consists are tasty and many of which are also vegetarian-friendly.
largely of one item, but when the famed Kranjska Klobasa Other dishes include the always popular chicken tikka
is the dish in question then thats really all you need. Tak- tandoori and daal tarka, while there are some delectable
ing its name from the city of Kranj, this hearty sausage was Indian desserts, as well as sweet, salty and mango lassis.
at the centre of so-called klobasa wars between Slove- QD-3, Trubarjeva 31, tel. +386 (0) 1 434 3530, www.
nia and Austria (and later Croatia) over the rights to the restavracija-namaste.si/. Open 07:30 - 21:00, Sat 08:00
EU-protected name. History and politics aside, this trendy - 20:00. Closed Sun. . P J A S
takeaway opposite the Cathedral is the best place to taste
what all the ado is about. They also serve the traditional NEW
Slovene dishes jota and riet, hearty stews that go great PRESNICA
This hole in the wall take away joint, located smack in
the centre of town on Preeren square, has become an
deliVery instant hit with locals chasing quick and healthy lunch-
es and snacks. The brainchild of a popular Slovene food
TOP CHEF blogger and cook, Presnica specialises in fresh mostly
Not to be confused with the long-running American vegan light meals - soups, salads and sandwiches. Yes,
reality TV with the same name, Ljubljanas Top Chef its a healthy vego place folks with prices to match but
is one of the citys premier delivery restaurants, with the food is actually delicious as well as good for your
both quality and prices that handily beat most of the body and the environment. Tasty gluten-free sweets
competition. The menu is focused primarily on wide and smoothies are also available, as is well made coffee,
variety of pizzas, salads and burgers, but we most of- which of course you can have with a range of milk al-
ten order one of the wraps, which come stuff with ei- ternatives. QD-3, Preernov trg 2, tel. +386 (0)40 797
ther succulent chicken roast beef or mozzarella sticks. 887, info@presnica.com, www.presnica.com. Open
And if youve got lots of mouths to feed, theres even 08:00-19:00, Sat 09:00-14:00. Closed Sun. J AS
a 1kg bucket of fried chicken. Special offers are usu-
ally available on the website, such as combo meals or SLOVELY PARK
20% off orders over 20. QCesta na Ronik 18, tel. Imagine the flexibility of a food court but the ambiance
+386 (0)30 611 633, info@topchef.si, www.topchef. of a stylish restaurant, and you have some idea of what
si. Open 11:00 - 22:00. AV Slovely Park has to offer. This attractive glass-fronted
venue, just by the Exhibition and Convention Centre,
38 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Where to Eat
hosts four independent businesses that work together to
provide something for everyone. Theres a grill with aged
meats, burgers and steaks, a bar with coffee and drinks, a
patisserie for bread and cakes, and a bistro with a menu of
more substantial dishes. Items from these can be mixed
and matched, so you get the best of all four. Daily specials, OPEN
plus special events, can be found online.QD1, Dunjaska
20, www.slovelypark.si. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Fri 07:00 - UNTIL
24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. 4AM
NEW
Subway
The ubiquitous American sandwich chain returned to EDITORS PICK
Slovenia a few years back and now also has a city centre
outlet. All of the fast food companys ads we saw a child Hia Kulinarike Manna
seem to have worked cause we still get frequent cravings Set in a colourful little house on one of Ljubljanas
for an Italian-style Marinara meatball sub. Apart from prettiest (and most overlooked) streets, Manna offers
their trademark freshly made sandwiches on store baked a divine selection of contemporary Slovene cuisine for
bread, Subway also offer salads and make sure to grab a breakfast, lunch and dinner. Meals are complimented
couple of moreish cookies. So, if you need a footlong fix with some tasty homemade desserts and large choice
while in town head to the arcade beside the Faculty of of both Slovene and foreign wines, as well as a sophis-
Arts or filofaks as the locals say. ticated selection of spirits (aged rums, cognacs and
Subway also have an outlet in Beigrad, Dunajska whiskeys) and cigars for after dinner. A large garden
115aQC4, Slovenska 1, tel. +386 (0)40 818 588, www. and terrace in the back is open all year, and many
subway.com/en-si. Open 07:00 - 24:00. PJS people come here to enjoy a coffee, sweets or light
snack.QC/D5, Eipprova 1a, tel. +386 (0)5 992 23 08,
SurfnFries www.restaurant-manna.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00,
We recently began noticing people carrying around Sun 12:00 - 21:00, holidays 12:00 - 22:00. . PT
boxes of fries (or chips as we would say) in the city cen- JA6UGBS
tre, and it turns out that this place is the culprit. Were
still not sure where the surf part of the name comes in
(as seafood is not on the menu), but they do offer heap-
ing portions of fries prepared in a variety of ways and
accompanied by a selection of sauces, as well as some
deep fried chicken dishes to satisfy the non-vegetari-
ans. Open late, because everything fried tastes better
after a night of drinking.QC3, Plenikov Trg. Open
06:00 - 04:00, Sat 08:00 - 04:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00.
2.10-4.50.

Burek
Burek Olimpija
Not one of our personal favourites, but judging by the
crowds milling about outside around the clock were
in the minority. It was also the runaway winner of our
online poll. The servings are huge and always hot, with
four varieties of pie to choose from: cheese, meat, apple
and pizza - the latter being the overwhelming favourite
among customers. Just around the corner from Bavar-
ski Dvor.QD2, Slovenska 58. Open 00:00 - 24:00. 2.
JN X S

Nobel Burek
A small kiosk close to the train and bus stations churning Gourmet Slovenian Cuisine
out steaming hot burek as well as pizza for those who like Eipprova 1a, Ljubljana
to do their fine dining in the street. Excellent value, excel-
lent burek.QD2, Mikloieva 30, tel. +386 (0)12 32 33 www.restaurant-manna.com
92. Open 24hrs. (2). J6UXS
www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket March - April 2017 39
Where to Eat
burgers
HOOd BURGER
A fast food favourite from the outskirts of town, and one
of our best burgers for 2017, now has a home in the cen-
tre of Ljubljana, with Hood Burger opening a new branch
just a short walk from Preeren Square. Here youll find a
concise menu that has exactly what you want, as long as
thats fries and burgers, chicken or beef, that you can cus-
tomise with range of toppings. All food is cooked fresh,
so its not as fast as some rivals, but you get a pager when
you place your order thatll buzz and flash when its time
to pick your meal up. While youre waiting, just relax with
a soda or beer.QNazorjeva Ulica 4, www.hoodburger.
si. Open 11:00 - 0:00.

HOT HORSE
be there or A true Ljubljana institution, a stop at Hot Horse is a must
for all first-time and returning visitors. The legendary

be square
horseburger is not only an original Slovenian creation,
but is also healthy, low in fat and rich in protein and iron,
and the menu now boasts a wider variety than ever be-
fore, including wraps, steaks and hot dogs, all of which
come with your choice of toppings and condiments. Hot
PE HM Mercator ika, Horse was also twice selected by our readers as the Best
Cesta ljubljanske brigade 33 Fast Food restaurant in Ljubjana. Visit their large modern
kiosk near the arena in Tivoli Park, or their other outlets in
BTC and Rudnik near Rutar.QB-2 / M-3 / M-6, Tivoli Park,
& BTC, Rudnik, tel. +386 (0)1 521 14 27, www.hot-horse.
si. Tivoli branch open 09:00 - 06:00, BTC 09:00 - 01:00,
Fri-Sat 09:00 - 06:00, Rudnik 09:00 - 24:00. . J6i
PE Ljubljana Rudnik, UBXS
Jurkova cesta 225
LARS & SVEN
Voted the best burger joint in Ljubljana by In Your Pocket
readers in 2016, making the trip to the Rudnik shopping dis-
trict (LPP bus 3 or 27) to visit Lars & Sven is well worth the
www.larsandsven.si effort for lovers of Americas most famous culinary contribu-
tion. In addition to frying up arguably the best burgers in
town, Lars & Sven prides itself on sustainable, socially-con-
scious business practices, which means sourcing organic in-
gredients from local butchers and nearby farms, and baked
goods from the Janez Levec Institute for people with special
needs. This not only supports the local economy and mi-
nimises carbon emissions, but perhaps more importantly
guarantees the freshest and highest quality food. Speaking
of which, our meal of choice is the eponymous Sven burger,
which comes with crispy bacon and onions caramelised
with beer and balsamic vinegar or their famed Blackadder
burger with Australian Angus beef, crispy Istrian pancetta,
fig sauce and aged English cheddar on an tasty black char-
coal bun.QM-6, Jurkova 225, tel. +386 (0)51 614 199,
www.larsandsven.si. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 11:00 -
22:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:30. . ALBS

MCdONALdS
Its McHere if you McNeed it, perhaps the most popular
fast food chain in the world, offering a reliable menu for
when you want a taste of home, wherever that may be.
40 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Where to Eat
With a total of six locations in Ljubljana alone, including
inside the train station (07:00-23:00), BTC City (07:00-24:00, www.mcdonalds.si
McDrive 00:00-24:00), Kolosej (07:00-01:00, Sun 08:00-
01:00), Rudnik and ika, with the latter two open 24/7,
and all offer free WiFi, friendly service and smiles for the
whole family. Look out for local specials, and two things
to remember: ketchup must be ordered as an extra, and
youll get a code for the bathroom on your receipt.QC-3,
opova 14, tel. +386 (0)1 251 12 60, www.mcdonalds.
si. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. PTJGi

ONE
BXSW

POPS PLACE
Located in the heart of the city centre, Pops Place is

ND ONL
Ljubljanas only self-described burger bar, and even
in the heat of the ongoing burger mania it manages
to stand out from the competition, with its 100% Slo-
vene beef aged in-house and accompanied on the
bun by the highest quality ingredients in some truly

Big Mac
unique combinations. The menu also features fish and
chips, onion rings and Kansas City style barbecued
ribs, while Taco Thursday gives even those who are
burger-weary an excuse to drop by and enjoy the live-
ly atmosphere with a craft beer or premium cocktail.
QCankarjevo Nabreje 3, tel. +386 (0)59 042 856.
Open 12:00 - 24:00.

seafood
VALENTIN
Taking its name from the famed Slovene priest, poet
and journalist, Valentin Vodnik, the restaurant is situated
opposite his statue just north of the central market, and
shares its premises with a fish mongers from which fas-
tidious diners can select their own fish. The main dining
area has been carefully restored, with attention given to
seemingly every detail - from the copper covered wiring
to the heavy wooden furniture to the low arched brick
ceiling. Aside from the expectedly wide variety of fish,
our favourite dish is the fresh succulent calamari (easily
amongst the best in town), while unbelievably cheap
lunch specials (3-7) can be ordered to take away all day.
QD-3, Vodnikov Trg 5, tel. +386 (0)59 041 111, www.
restavracija-valentin.si. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 -
23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. . J A B

VINO & RIBE


The name really says it all here: wine and fish! Best de-
scribed as a gourmet takeaway seafood joint, the menu
consists entirely of sardines, picarels and calamari, which
are either fried or grilled (in a Green Egg) and served up
piping hot, while the lone side dish is some of the best
fries in town, namely, wedge-style potatoes with the
McDrive McCafe
skins left on. Wine comes in two typical Istrian varieties, restaurants restaurants
Malvazija and Refok, and flows quite liberally by the litre BTC martinska 154 opova 14
or half-litre. Minimal, modern, inexpensive and delicious Premrlova 12 Kolosej, martinska 152
is definitely a winning combination in our book.QD-4, Celovka 170 Premrlova 12
Stari Trg 28, tel. +386 (0)31 323 252. Open 11:00 -
23:00. . J A B S
www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket March - April 2017 41
HH-oglas_ourSlovenia mali feb 17.pdf 1 24.2.2017 15:13:57
Where to Eat
value daily lunch with a glass of wine, or else drop by for a
www.hot-horse.si
C
turkish coffee and delicous sweet treat. QD/E-3, Adami-
ONLY
Lundrovo nabreje 1-7, tel. +386 (0)1 292 77 85, ucilna.
D THE
M

E FIRST AN EBURGER okusov@bic-lj.si, www.ucilnaokusov.si. Open 08:00 -


TH RS
AL HO . 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. JBS
Y
ORIGIN HE WORLD
IN T
CM

steakhouses
MY
Give it a try, ARGENTINO
CY while you are The journey out to BTC is well worth the effort, for Argen-
tino really needs to be experienced to be believed. Huge
in Ljubljana!
CMY
and based on a classic Argentinean hacienda on two levels
with further seating outside, the interior designer had a
w.f

K
great time thinking this one up. Featuring vast paintings,
enormous mirrors, video projectors, a fabulous bar and
an even lovelier open kitchen, which turns out a dizzying
soCially ConsCious array of mouth-watering Latin American dishes includ-
GOSTILNA dELA ing some of the best steaks in Ljubljana. Theres also an
A remarkable little restaurant on Poljanska Cesta, Gostilna excellent wine cellar with some 130 different Argentinean
Dela is exactly the type of place we hoped to find when wines.QM-3, martinska 152 (BTC), tel. +386 (0)1 523 36
we moved to Ljubljana many years ago. A special focus 30, www.argentino.si. Open 09:00-23:00, Fri-Sat 09:00-
is given to creating employment opportunities for local 24:00, Sun and holidays 12:00-17:00. (5.20-45). PTi
youth that would be otherwise excluded from the work- AR6UILGBXSW
ing world. We could wax lyrical about the social responsi-
bility side of things (see the Poljanska 7-14 box for more in- HILLBILLYS
formation), but the quality of the food demands attention In the city centre, but down a side street, through a passage-
in its own right. A variety of daily menus are on offer (meat, way, across a courtyard, around a corner and down some
fish and vegetarian of course), and you wont find a restau- stairs, when you finally step through the door you feel a bit
rant more in tune with the desires of its customers. Any- like youve found a hidden old-timey saloon. Although the
one visiting Dela without trying the homemade truklji is menu includes things like soup, salad and pasta, there are
also missing out on something truly special.QE-3, Poljan- really only two primary reasons to come here: meat and
ska 7, tel. +386 (0)51 491 491. Open 08:00 - 16:00, Thu beer. The latter comes in the form of Steigel on draught
08:00 - 16:00, 17:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JAG (among others), while the most popular food options are
chicken wings, pork ribs, burgers and steaks. Our visits usu-
POd STREHCO ally include over-ordering side dishes like baked potatoes
A collaborative venture by a number of Slovene charities, with bacon, onion rings and mozzarella sticks.QKersnikova
the non-profit Gostilna Pod Strehco is as much a commu- 5, tel. +386 40 503 636, www.hillbillys.si. Open 10:00 -
nity hub as it is a restaurant. Its main mission is to feed 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. JABW
locals struggling to get by, during the week preparing
hundreds of subsidized hearty meals. The humble can-
teen located opposite the Moste Trnica (Market) is also Vegetarian & Vegan
open to everyone, serving up a good range of freshly AjdOVO zRNO
prepared lunches costing just 3. Supporting a worthy Ajdovo Zrno is a small restaurant with a big heart and
cause has never been easier, just head along for a tasty plenty of healthy food without animal products, white
cheap lunch or coffee at Pod Strehco and youll be helping flour, white sugar, artificial colouring or flavours. If you are
to feed someone in need.QM-4, Zalovka 42, tel. +386 looking for a healthy option head along to Ajdovo Zrno
(0)70 332 299, www.podstrehco.si/. Open 07:30 - 16:00. for a fresh, delicious and sustainable lunch. A relaxing
Closed Sat, Sun. nook with a cute terrace just steps from Preeren square,
the restaurant serves daily cooked and raw meals - gluten
UILNA OKUSOV free options also available - plus they have the biggest
An interesting new model for a cafe and deli, Uilna and perhaps the best salad bar in town and tasty sweets
Okusov (it translates to classroom of flavours) is a joint among which the chocolate brownie and baklava are a
venture by three Slovenian vocational schools. Located must.QD-3, Trubarjeva 7, tel. +386 (0)40 832 446, www.
beside Dragon Bridge at the Ljubljana Central Market, it ajdovo-zrno.si/. Open 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
is an outlet for quality regional products - much of it or- (2-8). PJABS
ganic and some produced by students themselves. Uilna
Okusov teaches students hospitality and retail skills, whilst BARBARELLA ARKAdE BISTRO
giving market goers and tourists alike a taste of traditional After a night out in Ljubljana you may wonder how the lo-
Slovene foods either to take away or stay for a tasty great cals keep so trim and shake off hangovers. Our own secret:
42 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Where to Eat
healthy eating and smiles, both of which are in abundance at Organic Garden
Barbarella Arkade Bistro. Located by the Central Market, this Long a fixture of Ljubljanas burgeoning foodie scene in
newly opened caf has a full vegan menu with soups, salads, various locations around town with an unmistakable vin-
sandwiches, burgers, cookies and cakes. With outside seat- tage food truck dubbed the green pig, as well as at culi-
ing so you can enjoy the view, this is, truth be told, not only nary events such as Odprta Kuhna Organic Garden now
one of the few vegan cafs in town, but one of the best cafs has a permanent address to call home, on Ciril-Metodov
overall. Chef Barbarella also offers a light and vibrant breakfast Trg just opposite the Cathedral. Vegan-friendly sandwich-
menu to start the day off right, no matter how your evening es, burgers, soups, salads, smoothies and other tasty treats
ended.QD3, Adami Lundrovo Nabreje 3, tel. +386 (0)41 are served up in a bright, minimalist interior, which has
779 887, www.barbarella.si. Open 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - quite a bit of seating at high wooden tables. However, we
23:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:30. Closed Sun. usually get our order to take away, as the riverside, castle
hill and plenty of other cosy spots to dine are within easy
Bazilika Bistro walking distance.QCiril-Metodov Trg 11, tel. +386 820
A Mecca for lovers of fresh, healthy, organic foods, Bazilika 54050, www.organic-garden.eu. Open 10:00 - 19:00,
is located in a beautiful high-ceilinged space in the city Sun 10:00 - 18:00. PJABS
centre opposite the Presidential Palace and just around
the corner from the Academy of Fine Arts. While countless Zaiv Vegan Bistro
proprietors claim to use only fresh locally-sourced ingre- After the success of Zaiv in Bled, owner Denis opened
dients, Bazilika actually posts photos of daily visits to local this fantastic vegan bistro in the heart of student Ljublja-
farmers, markets and gardens to their social media pages, na. Most famous for its burgers, but also serving a variety
assuring patrons that the various sandwiches, sweet and of wraps, pizzas, pies and cakes, this all-vegan bistro is
savoury pies, salads, soups, smoothies and other veg- one well happily go without meat for. In addition to the
etarian and vegan-friendly treats that they turn out are food and drink - coffees, teas, juices and beers our fa-
as authentic as they are delectable. Daily 3-course lunch vourite part is the comfy reading area, lined with books
specials are written on the roll of brown recycled paper in English, German, French and Slovene, all available to
behind the counter.QB4, Preernova 15, tel. +386 (0)1 read or buy. A great place to get a quick bite or relax over
244 62 75, www.bazilika.si. Open 07:00 - 23:00. Closed a long coffee.QRimska cesta 23, www.zaziv.si/. Open
Sat, Sun. iJABSW 07:30 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00.

Proud winners of our Best Lunch Break poll for 2015, Bazilika Bistro is a vegetarians wonderland

www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket March - April 2017 43


Trubarjeva cesta 7 + 386 (0) 41 832 446
/ajdovozrno
1000 Ljubljana www.ajdovozrno.si
Where to Eat
is for sure true with Dvor Jezerek. A Slovenians Slovenian
World Cuisine restaurant in the little village of Cerkle na Gorenjskem just
Skuhna 2km from Ljubljana airport, it has taken the culinary tradi-
A truly unique culinary and social venture, Skuhna was es- tions of the country, sprinkled a little modern seasoning and
tablished by a Slovene non-profit to help better integrate created something excellent.QZgornji Brnik 63, tel. +386
the countrys vibrant migrant community, while at the same (0)4 252 94 10, www.jezersek.si. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun
time offering locals the opportunity to experience diverse 12:00 - 17:00.
foods and cultures from around the world. The restaurant is
the only place in town to try authentic cuisine from places Evergreen
such Algeria, Zimbabwe and Iran. The project initially pro- Located at the prestigious Diners Golf & Country Club in
vided training for several full-time chefs, who now organise Smlednik just northwest of Ljubljana, Evergreen is the flag-
an ongoing programme of lunches, dinners, workshops and ship restaurant of the Kaval Group, which operates over
catering services from their full-time restaurant on Trubar- a dozen restaurants in and around the capital. Even for
jeva ulica. A full calendar of upcoming events, daily menus those not with no interest in golf, Evergreens idyllic set-
and lots of other info can be found on the official website ting makes an attractive destination for lunch or dinner,
and Facebook page.QE3, Trubarjeva 56, tel. +386 (0)41 especially when the weather permits dining outside. The
339 978, www.skuhna.si. Open 11:30 - 17:00, Thu, Fri gourmet menu is a feast for the eyes (and wallet), while
11:30 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. PTJE the daily lunch specials during the week are a great value
starting at only 10. QSmlednik 200, Smlednik, tel. +386
Zlato Runo (0)5 921 17 43, +386 41 366 249, evergreen@kaval-
Opened in 2007 in a residential district (upanieva Jama) group.si, www.evergreen-restavracija.si. Open 08:00-
just north of the main train station, Slovenias only Geor- 22:00. PTALB
gian restaurant is still an unknown to many locals despite
being just a short walk from the city centre. This is a shame, Gostilna Mihovec
as the flavourful Georgian cuisine served at this family-run Only a short drive from Ljubljana, this family-run restaurant
place is authentic, tasty and unlike anything youll find with more than a century and a half of tradition offers an
elsewhere in the city. The most popular item on the menu unbeatable combination of excellent modern Slovene cui-
is haapuri, a delicious baked flat bread filled piping hot sine and genuine rural hospitality. Most of the ingredients
cheese, while a small but extremely diverse selection of are not only organic and locally-sourced, but come from the
both meat and vegetarian dishes are also available, and no familys own farm or from their neighbours, a fact which led
meal is complete without at least one glass of Georgian to Mihovec being one of the original members recognised
wine or brandy. QF-1, tihova 2, tel. +386 (0)59 047 under the Gostilna Slovenia brand. There is often live tradi-
107, +386 (0)31 845 863, info@zlatoruno.si, www. tional music in the evenings, while we usually stop by for
zlatoruno.si. Open 10:00-22:00. Closed Mon. BS a long lunch at the weekends whenever we have the time.
QZgornje Pirnie 54, Medvode, tel. +386 (0)1 362 30
60/+386 (0)31 684 434, www.mihovec.com. Open Wed,
Around Ljubljana Thu 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
If youre looking to get out of town and enjoy a traditional Closed Mon, Tue. TLEB
home-cooked meal in the countryside - and we highly sug-
gest that you do - the restaurants listed below are a great Gostie Gri
place to start! In the little village of entjot na Horjulom is the delight-
ful little inn called Gri, and delightful is most definitely
Boschtiz the right word. Many places may claim the old traditional
This newly opened caf, bar and bistro is in iska, about ten food with a modern twist, but Gri brings it to the table
minutes out of town, but those who make the trip will be and then backs it up with the taste. Everything used in
rewarded with a menu of very reasonably priced dishes and their dishes is sourced locally, be it the cheese, the meat,
daily specials. The place opens early for breakfast and coffee the eggs, vegetables, everything. The emphasis is on sea-
and then stays open late, taking in lunch and dinner along sonal dishes too, so expect a completely different menu
the way. In the evening the lights dim and its a great place depending on the time of year. It also organises various
for cocktails and drinks, with a large selection of quality sporting events throughout the year in its picturesque
spirits kept behind the bar, and a special focus on rum. We surroundings. Qentjot na Horjulom 24d, tel. +386 (0)1
recommend a visit if youre in the neighbourhood, whatever 754 01 28, +386 (0)41 25 69 90, info@gric.si, www.gric.
the time of day.QK3, Litostrojska cesta 56, tel. +386 (0)51 si. Open 10:00-22:00, Wed 10:00-13:00.PT6UB
640 096. Open 07:00 - 22:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Dvor Jezerek More restaurants online at


Generally when a restaurant is awarded a title such as Taste
Slovenia - Culinary Centre, you can be sure that what you ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
will find within will tickle each and every taste bud, and this
www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket March - April 2017 45
word blood when discussing food might conjure up a few
strange looks, but krvavice is well worth getting over any
pre-judgements for. Suffice to say, Bogra is a must for all
meat-lovers. A thicker than thick stew that takes its name
from the large pot in which it is cooked, bogra is along the
same lines as goulash, but with something special about it
all the while.

Known all over Slovenia, truklji is a very characteristic dish


that comes in a few different forms. Made from different
kinds of dough and coming with a huge range of fillings, the
most adored can be found in spring and summer stuffed
with tarragon. Cottage cheese is also a popular filling. A
thick stew made with barley porridge and dried meat, the
Photo: Tomo Jeseninik / Tourisnm Ljunljana plain version of Riet is actually served in Slovenian prisons.
We hope youll never have to verify that. The ingredients of
Jota, a thick, hearty soup (or stew), depend on the seasons,
Eat Like a Slovenian and it is almost guaranteed to chase away any and all ills. Id-
rijski likrofi are traditional Slovenian dumplings, and this
Traditional Slovenian food has truly come back to the fore popular dish gained protected geographical status in 2010,
in recent times, leading to more exposure for restaurants the first Slovenian dish to do so.
specialising in dishes eaten by families at home over the
centuries. But what are some of the specialities to look out Those hankering after desserts wont be disappointed ei-
for? Let us guide you! Kranjska Klobasa is a heavily smoked ther. Potica is a type of nut roll cake that has a seemingly
sausage traditionally eaten with sauerkraut and fermented endless number of different fillings. Originally made using
turnip, which is much tastier than it sounds. Emperor Franz cheese and eggs, it is the version of Gibanica that originates
Josef once famously proclaimed that it is no ordinary sau- from Prekmurje that tempts us the most. Adding a mixture
sage, and we tend to agree. Continuing on the sausage of apples, raisins, walnuts and poppy seeds as filling, it may
front, Krvavice is, simply, blood sausage. Mentioning the just be the nations most popular dessert. Dober tek!

GOSTILNA / RESTAURANT
Odprto / Open:
vsak dan od 8. do 24. ure
every day from 8 to 24 o'clock

Stari trg 21, Ljubljana / T +386 (0) 82 052 506


E druga.violina@center-db.si www.facebook.com/drugaviolina

46 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


Cafes

At the revamped Zvezda at Hotel Slon its hard to tell what is more elegant the cafe or those decadent cakes. (Photo: iga Koritnik)

Bazilika Shop & Cafe Le Petit Caf


Right next to the courthouse and in one the busiest ar- Close your eyes, and try to imagine a caf called Le
eas of Ljubljana, this caf is one of the closest things youll Petit that happens to be sitting on a square named
find to an oasis in the city. As soon as you enter, you feel after the French Revolution. Le Petit caf will match
how you leave the bustle and noise of the city behind and your imaginings and then some. Our first thought was
are welcomed by very soothing music and dcor. A great adorable, but there is so much more to it than this. An
place to come and study, use your laptop or just surf the excellent choice for breakfast or an afternoon coffee,
net. Try the excellent coffee and sandwiches. Great service Parisian chic abounds with added elegance and grace,
too.QD2, Mikloieva 22, tel. +386 (0)41 530 539, www. whether you choose to sit outside or in the none-
bazilika.si. Open 07:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. PJ more-romantic inside.QC4, Trg Francoske Revolu-
SW cije 4, tel. +386 (0)1 251 25 75/+386 (0)51 605 400,
www.lepetit.si. Open 07:30 - 01:00. PT J A
Kavarna MAO 6U G B S W
If you plan on visiting Fuine Castle or the Museum of
Architecture and Design (MAO), then we recommend Lolita
getting a drink or a snack in Kavarna MAO. Set within the With absurdly high ceilings, exposed brick walls, great
castle itself, the caf is a living exhibit, designed by leading views through huge plate glass windows and super
local architects, furnished with the kind of chairs and ta- comfortable seating, this riverside caf leaves little to be
bles that distinguished Slovenian interiors in the 20th cen- desired - the place even smells great thanks to bouquets
tury, and often playing host to museum events. Operated of fresh cut flowers at the entrance. Delectable-looking
by the Kaval Group, the team behind some of the best cakes are displayed in specially-built cases, and gourmet
venues in town, the menu has all the usual caf favourites, chocolates and teas are also on sale, as well as award-win-
including coffees, teas, alcoholic drinks and cakes, but its ning cocktails. We didnt think Ljubljana had room for any
the setting that really makes it worth the trip. QPot na more cafs, but Lolita proved us wrong.QD3, Cankarjevo
Fuine 2, tel. +386 (0)1 29 26 400, mao@kaval-group. Nabreje 1, tel. +386 (0)5 901 62 99/+386 (0)41 344 189,
si, www.kaval-group.si/KAVARNA_MAO. Open 10:00- www.kaval-group.si. Open 08:30 - 23:00. PJA6
18:00. Closed Mon. GBXW
www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket March - April 2017 47
Cafes
Mr & Mrs Green pica
Ljubljanas a small town, so its always a little exciting The latest effort from the fabled Kaval Group, pica is
when new places open. However, its even better when guaranteed to become a true summer favourite in Lju-
a new place is genuinely cool and offers something you bljana. Situated at the pica itself, where the Ljubljanica
cant get anywhere else, and Mr and Mrs Green definitely divides before entering the city, it is tailor made for
fits the bill. Ostensibly a caf and bar in a prime location lounging on the riverside with a cold drink watching the
along the river, the owners have brought together an as- days go by. The modern bar does a great line in refresh-
sortment of their favourite things from Slovenia, Europe ing cocktails, which go together almost too well with the
and the world. Specialty coffee comes from a family-run scenery. Dont be surprised to see spontaneous danc-
roaster in Florence, theres Delemain Cognac from Cham- ing on the terraces as well.QGruberjevo nabreje, tel.
pagne, 23-year-old rum from Guatemala, cold brew +386 (0)51 36 86 58, www.kaval-group.si. Open 08:00
cocktails, top Slovene wines, the only proper bagels in - 17:00, Sat-Sun 09:00 - 17:00 (in Winter). T6 B
Slovenia, and homemade cheesecake that tastes like it
was flown in direct from New York. Check their Facebook STA Travel Caf
page for live music events during the summer months. Connected to the Ljubljana branch of STA travel via a
QD4, Cankarjevo Nabreje 15, www.mr-and-mrs. doorway at the back, this centrally-located caf is a
green. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. popular destination in its own. The terrace is loaded
with comfy wooden furniture, and inside is just as com-
Slovenska Hia fortable, with hot sandwiches, pizzas and other light
Slovenska Hia is exactly what it says on the tin: a 100% snacks on the menu. It also wouldn't be a travel caf
Slovenian menu is found, covering beers, cocktails, li- without the bi-monthly presentations of exotic locales
queurs and a wide variety of meat and cheese plates, as around the globe - check the chalk board for upcoming
well as some traditional dishes like truklji and Kranjska events.QC2, Ajdovina 1, tel. +386 (0)1 439 16 90, fax
klobasa. The interior resembles a market (albeit a mar- +386 (0)1 439 16 95, www.statravelcafe.com. Open
ket with minimalist illustrations scribbled on the walls 08:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. PT J6GBXW
and ceiling), but in warmer months most will chose the
delightful riverside terrace to sit and enjoy a refreshing, STOW
inventive cocktail (served in jars no less), while watching The cafe in the City Museum was previously called
the world pass by.QCankarjevo Nabreje 13, tel. +386 Revolucionist and perhaps STOW should have kept the
(0)83 899 88 11. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - original name since they are indeed revolutionising the
03:00. JB W Ljubljana coffee scene. With their own boutique roastery,
an excellent range of coffees (on sale in the cafe) and a
La Morzocco - the formula one of coffee machines - plus
a brew bar even the most demanding (annoying) coffee
nerd will be satisfied. And if chemex and aeropress mean
nothing to you, its still worth visiting this hidden design-
er cafe which also has a sunny courtyard and delights
well beyond coffee including quality teas, tasty snacks
and sweets, local craft beers and boutique wines.QC4,
Gosposka 15, tel. +386 (0)1 241 25 32. Open 10:00 -
18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. PJ B S W

Zvezda
A bustling caf frequented by a battalion of clients
from students to pearl-laden old ladies. Zvezdas dcor
leans in the direction of your classic Buddha lounge,
with a scattering of Oriental statues and some fine
brown velvet wallpaper. Not the cheapest caf in town,
your money is at least well spent. The coffee is strong
enough to wake the dead, and the cakes are some of
the best and stickiest in town. They also have a few
more cafes about town, so if you need a sweet fix while
shopping at BTC head to Hala 12 or pause for coffee
and cake at the National Gallery (Narodna galerija); and
there is another Zvezda on the ground floor of Hotel
Slon. QC-3, Wolfova 14, tel. +386 (0)1 421 90 90,
kavarna.zvezda@siol.net, www.zvezdaljubljana.si.
Open 07:00-23:00, Sun 10:00-20:00. PT J UG
Coffee and cake in style at Lolita BSW
48 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Cafes
fruit juiCe & smoothies www.mcdonalds.si

Moments
VITAMIN BOx
This bright, green beacon of health can be found
on the northwest corner of Mikloieva park. Oper-
ating under the simple yet fitting slogan of fresh
and nice, Vitamin Box specialises in made-to-
order fruit juices, milk shakes and smoothies, with
the latter concocted from an almost endless list of
THAT MAKE
possible ingredients, from pineapple and pome-
granate to pistachios and protein powder. If youd
YOUR DAY
like to indulge in something a bit less healthy,
theyve also got several flavours of soft-serve ice
cream and frozen yogurt onto which you can pile
your own toppings, as well as various sandwich-
es, pastries and authentic Turkish baklava.QD-2,
Tavarjeva 6, tel. +386 (0)70 563 817. Open 07:00
- 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. PT J i
AS

Coffee & Cakes


KAVARNA zVEzdA SLON
Zvezda has long been known for its drinks and desserts
on Wolfova ulica, and now its opened a new branch
in the Best Western Hotel Slon. Extending from the
lobby and looking out onto the street, the black marble
countertops, low lights and monochrome elegance of
the dcor make a good contrast to the colourful and
extensive range of cakes on offer. Theres all the local
favourites and international classics, as well as smooth-
ies, teas, coffees, sandwiches, snacks and more. The
famed ice creams were not on display on our visit, but
are listed on the menu, so do ask if you cant see what
you want. The late opening hours and central location
also make this a great spot for drinking when other
bars have closed.QD-3, Slovenska cesta 34, tel. +386
(0)1 470 11 46, www.zvezdaljubljana.si. Open Mon,
Tue, Wed 08:00 - 0:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun
09:00 - 0:00.

MCCAF
All six McDonalds in Ljubljana have some form of
McCaf, but perhaps the most popular is the one on
McCafe
the main street of opova. While it may seem an odd restaurants
place to recommend in a city overflowing with more opova 14
traditional cafs, in truth theres something comfort- Kolosej, martinska 152
ing about the Golden Arches that keeps us going back.
With quick, reliable service, reasonable prices and a
Premrlova 12
range of quality cakes, pastries and drinks, youll find
locals and visitors alike popping in to take away a cup
or have or more leisurely break. WiFi is available, and
do keep your receipt - it has the code for the bathroom.
QC-3, opova 14, tel. +386 (0)1 251 12 60, www.
mcdonalds.si. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00.
PJAGBKXSW
www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket March - April 2017 49
Cafes
EDITORS PICK Coffee & Ice Cream
aROMA Gelato Experience
Ziferblat Youll have no problem finding gelato in Ljubljana this sum-
It isnt entirely accurate to place Ziferblat in the caf mer, thats for sure. With four locations dotted around the
section, but its truly unique set up pretty much de- city aROMA Gelato Experience offers just that, the promise of
fies categorization. Following on from openings in homemade 100% natural gelato in a variety of flavours using
London, Manchester, Moscow and Kiev (among oth- only the freshest ingredients. The main store can be found on
ers) the Ziferblat project has moved into Ljubljana. opova, along with scenic settings at Krianke, Petkovkovo
The doors are open to everyone, creating a great at- Nabreje and the Plenik Market. The experience part of the
mosphere for meeting new people and getting work name is no exaggeration either, so head out and see for your-
done. Everything within is free, with only your time self. QC-3, opova 7, tel. +386 (0)70 77 07 77, info@aroma-
coming at a price, and even that price is low. All the gelatoexperience.com, www.aroma-gelatoexperience.
money goes back into the project as well.QVegova com. Open 07:00-23:00. JABS
8, tel. +386 (0)40 28 99 88, www.ziferblat.net.
Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 16:00 - 22:00. Cacao
Boasting an unbeatable location just steps from Ljubljanas
famed Preernov Trg, Cacao is the citys top destination for
ice cream lovers - overwhelmingly voted as having the best
ice cream in town in each and every In Your Pocket Best of
Summertime competition to date. Its large tree-shaded ter-
race along the banks of the Ljubljanica also gets top marks
for atmosphere, while the laid-back chocolate brown inte-
rior is a great place to chill out with a mouthwatering slice
of gourmet cake or freshly prepared fruit smoothie. One
of our, and seemingly everyone elses, favourites.QD3,
Petkovkovo Nabreje 3, tel. +386 (0)1 430 17 71, www.
cacao.si. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sum-
mertime 08:00 - 24:00. PTJA6UGBSW

Torta Ljubljana Vig


This takeaway cake shop in the Plenik Arcade has much The last couple of years in Ljubljana have seen a raft
more to it than meets the eye. To begin with its epony- of excellent ice creameries open up and foremost
mous Ljubljana Cake is the only sweet we know of in town amongst them is Vigo. Located between Mestni Trg
that comes with its own creation myth, which involves a and Tromostovje (the three bridges) we salivate every
fickle lord living in Ljubljana Castle, a beautiful daughter time we walk past this elegant gelataria-cum-caf with
waiting to be wed, and a plucky local chef who concocts continuously flowing taps of dark and white chocolate
the perfect recipe. The retro-style cake has been recreated tempting from the window. Apart from stunningly
using only typical Slovenian ingredients (including gluten good gelato - we like it sandwiched in a brioche, i.e.
free 100% buckwheat flour) and can be purchased in sev- the Vigo burger - Vigo also offers cakes and very good
eral sizes, all of which come in custom designed reusable coffee. Upstairs is a chic space to relax over coffee and
packaging. The cakes can now also be found at Kavarna cake, or grab a table on the pavement and people
SEM, Nebotinik and Bar Kofi Plac at BTC.QD3, Adami- watch with a cocktail.QD3, Stritarjeva ulica 4, tel.
Lundrovo Nabreje 1, tel. +386 (0)30 300 618/+386 +386 (0)8 205 64 28, www.vigo-icecream.com. Open
(0)41 272 433. Open 08:00 - 16:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:30 - 22:00.

KAVARNA Wolfova 14 Slovenska cesta 34 (hotel Slon) martinska cesta 152 (BTC, Hala 12) Puharjeva 9 (Narodna Galerija) DELI Wolfova 12
www.zvezdaljubljana.si www.facebook.si/zvezdaljubljana

50 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


Nightlife

As Aperitivo is perfect for a business lunch, or an afterwork drink (photo: As Aperitivo).

Bars raoke may also occur.QKljuavniarska 5, tel. +386 (0)41


As Aperitivo 680 597, www.captains-cabin.com. Open 18:00 - 03:00.
Now housed in slick ultra-modern premises that have
been the recipient of numerous design awards, this Daktari
long-running lounge bar is almost as much of a Ljubljana Sharing its name with the Swahili word for doctor, this place
institution as its namesake restaurant next door. A top always cures us of any bad mood were in. Located near
destination for the business set, Aperitivo is definitely the Puppet Theatre and the funicular railway to the Castle,
one of the citys more glamorous settings in which to Daktari is a labour of love that attracts an artistic crowd of
grab a drink, the whole place turning into a large open- all ages. The bar exudes an old-time ambience and charm
air terrace during the warmer months. Live DJs keep the that is a rarity these days: restored antique furniture, shelves
party going most nights, while the Italian head bar- full of books, a player piano in the corner and a stage that is
tender prepares some masterful creations for thirsty pa- occasionally used for live music sets, jam sessions, theatre,
trons. Find it in a secluded courtyard just off of Preernov cabaret and an eclectic mix of other cultural events. Very
Trg.QC3, opova 5 (Knafljev Prehod), tel. +386 (0)1 cosy, very nice.QD3, Krekov Trg 7, tel. +386 (0)59 055 538,
425 41 68, www.gostilnaas.si. Open 10:00 - 01:00. www.daktari.si. Open 07:30 - 01:00, Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun
J6 UB XW 09:00 - 24:00. PJA6EBXW

Captains Cabin Jet Bar


The Captains Cabin is a lively bar with a nautical theme Were not entirely sure how, but Jet Bar has managed to
located in the heart of the old town, with a huge range of put together an interior with a very clear theme that man-
beers, big name and craft, but where it really shines is the ages to be subtle at the very same time. As the name would
cocktails. Free popcorn with every order at the weekends, suggest all things aviation is celebrated, with the propeller-
and more special offers than you could shake a peg-leg at, esque fans a particularly nice touch. Beers, coffees, cocktails
including a regular two-for-one deal on mixed drinks that and more are on offer, as well as pleasant outdoor seating
may leave your head spinning, so stay a while longer and perfect for the day and plenty of dance space for the nights.
enjoy something from the menu of bar snacks. A great place Qubieva ulica 1, tel. +386 (0) 8 381 16 20. Open 06:00
to get the party started or end the night. Live music and ka- - 04:00, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun.
www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket March - April 2017 51
Don't get stuck waiting! Be among the first
to get The Slovenia Restaurants book.
In recent months, together with the Expert Committee, Chefs & Foodies
Academy as well as all of you, we have selected the best restaurants in
Slovenia.

All 140 restaurants, which we can proudly


say represent the best Slovenia has to offer,
will be featured in the book, which will thus
present readers with ideas on where to go
for that business lunch, brunch on
a weekend trip or dinner for a special
occasion.

The book will be released at the end of


spring, while you can make sure you get
a copy by pre-ordering it.

To submit an order or if you have any


questions about the book, please contact us:
info@the-slovenia.com

Slovenia, placed on the culinary map of the world!

Partners
Finalists of the five Slovenian regions (placed in alphabetical order)

Finalists in the North Finalists in the West


Gostilna Danilo Domaija Klinec
Gostilna Kritof Gostilna Mahori
Hia Raduha Gostilna pri Lojzetu
Dvor Jezerek Gostilna Tomi
Vila Podvin Hia Franko

Finalists in the South


Gostilna Rakar
Gostilna Repov Finalists in Ljubljana and
Gostie Kapuin central Slovenia
Oterija Debeluh Gostilna As
Restavracija Grad Otoec Gostilna Belak
Gostilna Mihovec
Gostilna na gradu
Finalists in the East Gostilna Skaruna
Gostilna Rajh Gostie Gri
Hia Denk Restavracija Cubo
Pavus, Grad Tabor Restavracija JB
Restavracija Mak Restavracija Strelec
Sedem Sushimama

You can find more information at:


www.the-slovenia.com

General sponsor

NALEPE
Nightlife
signed to resemble a kitchen counter. Theres also a large
Adult Entertainment library of books (including many in English) to keep you
busy on rainy days, whilst sampling gourmet coffee or
Hard Core Club something from the impressive wine list. On nice days
With a name like that you cant help but smile and get take a seat outside under some giant trees along a quieter
in a taxi and head here. The concept is simple: outstand- stretch of the Ljubljanica river.QD4, Galusovo Nabreje
ing erotic entertainment provided by professionals in a 27, tel. +386 (0)40 699 453, www.tozd.eu. Open 08:30 -
safe environment for groups of lads of all ages and back- 24:00. TJABS
grounds. Nobody pesters you to buy them extortionate
lady drinks, there is always something worth watching
on stage, and entrance is free. Drinks are reasonably Clubs
priced - even the erotic ones - and the girls who perform Cirkus
here are on the whole of a far higher phwoar category Set on the premises of the former arthouse cinema Ki-
then elsewhere. DJs keep the tunes fresh, and the club noklub Vi, Cirkus is one the of the more popular clubs in
also offers free taxi transfers and a limo service. QG-3, Ljubljana - with lots of themed nights, live DJs and photo
Dolgi Most 4, tel. +386 (0)41 71 66 12, info@hcc.si, albums posted to their Facebook page the morning after
www.hcc.si. Open 17:00-05:00, Fri 17:00-07:00, Sat parties (ie beware of the man with camera if you dont
21:00-05:00. Closed Sun.PJAG want your drunk face making the rounds on social me-
dia!). Located just at the edge of the city centre opposite
the old tobacco factory, its easy walking distance from
Magda most central hotels and hostels, and usually attracts a
Magda manages the rare feat of being super cool, com- youthful student crowd.QB4, Trg Mladinskih Delovnih
pletely authentic and refreshingly unpretentious all at Brigad 7, tel. +386 (0)51 631 631/+386 (0)41 777 747,
the same time. The minimalist interior features stripped www.cirkusklub.si. Open 22:00 - 05:00. Admission is
down walls, custom-made furnishings and original usually free before 23:00 and 5 after. Special events
Yugoslav-era tiling - something youd find in the so- and performances can increase the price though.
called ruin bars of Budapest or hippest neighbour- PJ A G
hoods of Berlin. The diverse selection beer is matched
by the eclectic choice of spirits, all of which the friendly Gala Hala
barkeep will gladly explain in detail. Whats more, per- As the main concert venue in Metelkova - Ljubljanas
haps the finest espresso in town is produced using a regionally renowned independent cultural centre
manual hand-pulled machine, while croissant breakfast - Gala Hala hosts an eclectic range of performances
sandwiches, heavenly meat and cheese plates, tins of several times per week, including many well-known
premium seafood and fresh oysters on ice highlight acts, while functioning as a club on other nights. The
the food menu. Truly unique and one of our personal state-of-the-art sound system and acoustics make it
favourites!QD3, Pogaarjev Trg 1, tel. +386 (0)1 620 a popular venue for both performers and audiences,
2 610, www.barmagda.si. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Sun and from May till October a summer stage and gar-
18:00 - 01:00. PJ 6 E B X den is also opened behind the main venue, which
can accommodate nearly 1000 people. Check their
Sombrero Bar website for a complete list of upcoming shows.QF1,
Located out in the suburb of Fuine, Sombrero sits next Masarykova 24, tel. +386 (0)1 43 17 063, www.
to the highway and has an interior that one would ex- galahala.com.
pect from a bar with such a name. The walls are posi-
tively covered in photographs of Native Americans, Zoo
sombreros and other North American paraphernalia. Breathing life into Tobana Mesto, the former tobacco
Beers, coffee and snacks are on offer, with cigars also factory that has become something of a burgeoning
available to purchase. It is the cocktails that provide the centre of arts and culture, Zoo is known for its frequent
spark, with an interesting array available that go further live music concerts, lively atmosphere and friendly bar-
than what is usually on offer. Let the kids run wild in tenders and staff. Events are held at least two to three
the large playground. and treat yourself to a Barbados. times a week, with jazz on Mondays, and a rotating se-
QNove Fuine 49, tel. +386 (0)41 57 63 92. Open lection of ethno, electro and more on other nights, the
06:00 - 24:00. former held upstairs and the latter taking place in the
more club-like space below, while things move outside
Tozd during the summer months. Cover prices are reason-
A favourite destination for Ljubljanas cool crowd from able as are cocktails and other beverages. See the offi-
seemingly the day it opened (if not even earlier), Tozds cial Facebook page for info on upcoming events.QA4,
carefully crafted interior boasts brick walls, red leather Traka 2, tel. +386 (0)40 533 301, www.zoo-club.si.
benches, original photography from contemporary Slo- Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri 07:00 - 05:00, Sat 11:00 - 05:00.
vene artists, a number of fixed-gear bikes, and a bar de- Closed Sun.
54 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Nightlife
Patricks Irish Pub
Pubs Ljubljanas quintessential Irish pub is popular with locals,
Corner Pub expats and tourists alike, and over the years weve person-
Being British, we do love ourselves a traditional pub ally spent many a night entertaining visitors, watching
style environment, and Corner Pub in Traka certainly sports on the big screen and generally drinking too much
fits the bill. With 18 years of tradition behind it, more here. Theyve got a huge selection of beer, with some 90
than 40 different beers on offer and live sports events varieties to choose from, and often host events such as live
on the projector, we only have good things to say. The Irish music concerts, pub quizzes and beer tastings. Find it
coffee is pretty good too, put together by professionally down a small cobbled alleyway just off Trubarjeva Ulica.
trained baristas.QA4, Traka cesta 19, tel. +386 (0)1 QD3, Prena 6, tel. +386 (0)1 230 17 68/+386(0) 41
425 58 01. Open 06:30 - 01:00, Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 581 333, www.irishpub-ljubljana.si. Open 17:00 - 01:00,
09:00 - 01:00. Mon, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. PTJA6EGSW

Parlament Pub Pivnica Union


Knowing neither whether its a caf or a bar, this pecu- It may have taken 150 years, but the wait was most certain-
liar oddity with its books on the shelves, shady char- ly worth it. One of the Big Two of Slovenian beer, Unions
acters and (youve guessed it) students is nonetheless newly opened pub is a welcome addition to the brewery
a popular stop for the heavy drinking younger crowd. complex. Located in the former workers canteen it retains
Known for cheap beer and cocktails (with three of the this workingmans feel, wrapped in a modern coating.
latter had for the price of two), and lively international All of Unions beers are available on tap, including the
parties almost every night, its a great place to both unfiltered version and a newly conceived speciality beer
start or end an evening out. The entrance and terrace conjured up by the brewing wizards. Something must be
are at the back side of the building on Plenikov Trg. eaten to soak up the beer of course, and beer-friendly food
QC3, ubieva 1, tel. +386 (0)1 251 32 43. Open is available for the cause.QB1, Celovka 22, tel. +386 (0)1
06:00 - 04:00, Sat 08:00 - 04:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. 471 72 17, www.pivnica-union.si. Open 11:00 - 24:00,
PJ A 6 U E G B X W Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun.

Sir Williams Pub


An all together classier affair than most other pubs in
Editors PicK town, Sir Williams clientele is largely a reflection of its
location in the city centre between the national court-
mauc house and Radio Television Slovenia, as well as several
Ask any tuned-in local to make a list of their favourite business hotels. Boasting one of the largest beer selec-
bars and theyre almost certain to put this place on the tions in Slovenia, there are over 130 different varieties to
list. Covered in quality graffiti outside and always featur- choose from, and the countrys best craft beer, Human
ing a huddle of interesting-looking individuals smoking Fish, is always on tap. The atmosphere is generally warm
suspiciously large cigarettes by the entrance, the exterior and laid-back, with patrons chatting to the staff about
is but a mild prelude to whats inside. A smallish L-shaped beer or watching something on the big screen TV. Fol-
bar is packed day and night with more strange characters low their Facebook page for info about beer tastings and
amidst an interior design scheme straight from the pages other events. QD-2, Tavarjeva 8a, tel. +386 (0)5 99
of a Manga comic. Excellent for coffee or something a 44 825, sirwilliamspub@gmail.com, sirwilliamspub.
little stronger. Highly recommended.QB4, Rimska 21, webs.com. Open Mon-Fri 08:00-01:00, Sat 10:00-14:00
tel. +386 (0)1 251 03 24. Open 07:30 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - and 19:00-01:00, Sun 17:00-24:00.PJ A BSW
01:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00. PJA6GB
Wine Bars
Dvorni Bar
Perennial winners of our Best Wine Bar poll, this large L-
shaped adventure is a pleasant caf during the day and
the citys trendiest wine bar by night. Theres a swanky
jazzy area at one end for more wine-oriented patrons,
while the other side is a little more geared towards the
restaurant crowd, with tapas and lunch specials on offer.
With upwards of 100 varieties of wine in stock its a great
place to sample local vintages if you dont have time to
trek out to one of Slovenias wine growing regions.QB3,
Dvorni Trg 2, tel. +386 (0)1 251 12 57, www.dvornibar.
net. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. (4.50-15).
PTJHA6UEGBKXSW
56 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Sightseeing

How did one man build so much? Another of Pleniks unique creations, the Church of the Archangel Michael on the Ljubljana Marsh at Crna vas

Ljubljana Castle is arguably the main attraction for Ljubljana. At any given moment during daylight hours (and
visitors to the city, but all that lies beneath it from the only slightly less frequently at night) there is sure to be at least
Old Town to Ljubljanas multitude of museums and a person or two clicking away at one of the four large dragons
galleries are more than worthy of further investigation. guarding either side of the bridge or the smaller griffins that
The extraordinary combination of treats, from the adorn the bottom of its eight lamp posts. Of course were no
architecture of Joe Pleniks to the historic atmosphere exception, as we still remember the fog shrouded photo we
of the Old Town to the occasional blast-to-the-past snapped on our first trip to the city way back in the forgotten
burst of retro-Yugoslav city planning all work together days of analogue film. More recently some amateur artiste ap-
in harmony to create the most unique of cities. parently felt that the mythical beasts were lacking a certain je
ne sais quoi and took it upon themself to add a smattering
of red paint to their mouths and claws. The jury is still out on
Top Attractions whether or not this is an improvement but it does amuse us
Cathedral (Stolnica Sv. Nikolaja) whenever we walk past.QE3, Resljeva Cesta.
With its classic twin towers and trademark single, weath-
er-worn green dome, the citys cathedral, more properly France Preeren Monument
known as St Nicholas Church, encapsulates everything Slovenias national poet France Preeren (1800-1849)
that is Ljubljana. Small and interesting, but not too exciting stands in the square named in his honour at the foot of
at first glance, a longer look at its history and finer details the Triple Bridge. As well as offering an interesting visual
reveals its hidden charm and beauty. Built on the site of treat, the monument also serves as a focal point for people
a much earlier church, the cathedrals main structure and meeting in the city. Erected in 1905, the large monolith is
appearance dates from the first half of the 18th century. the work of the architect Maks Fabiani and sculptor Ivan
Inside the Baroque masterpiece is a cavalcade of classic Zajc and features the Muse of poetry holding a small laurel
creams and golds, littered with extraordinarily detailed of bay leaves over his head as well as extracts from his writ-
frescoes and possessing that calming feeling that only a ing around the base.QD3, Preernov trg.
great church can bring.QD3, Dolniarjeva 1, tel. +386
(0)1234 26 70, lj-stolnica.rkc.si. Franciscan Church (Franikanski Samo-
stan)
Dragon Bridge (Zmajski Most) Built in an instantly recognisable, mildly swirly Baroque fash-
Since it opened in 1901, Zmajski Most has been locked in a ion, Ljubljanas mid-16th-century Franciscan Church domi-
fierce competition with the castle and the conspicuously pink nates Preernov Trg like a big pink birthday cake. Part of a larg-
Franciscan Church for the title of Most Photographed Sight in er complex with an additional Franciscan monastery, if youre
www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket March - April 2017 57
Sightseeing
lucky enough to find the doors unlocked expect a few treats
Ljubljana Castle inside including Robbas 18th-century altar, some charm-
ing frescoes dating from 100 years or so later and a chapel
notable for containing a cross designed by none other than
Joe Plenik. For those who dont appreciate the finer points
of ecclesiastic architecture, the front steps do at least provide
a nice place to sit and watch the world go by on a gloriously
sunny day.QD3, Preernov Trg 4, tel. +386 (0)1242 93 00.

Preeren Square (Preernov Trg)


Formally a meeting place for several roads in front of one
of the old entrance gates to the city, and a public square
since Ljubljanas original defensive walls were torn down
in the middle of the 19th century, this is one of the citys
most important landmarks. Named after Slovenias nation-
al poet France Preeren (German, Franz Prescheren, 1800-
1849), its both a popular meeting place (notably under the
large statue of the man after whom the square is named)
and a site for concerts and events during the summer.
The charming little public space is ringed by a number of
interesting sights including the magnificent Art Nouveau
faade of the Urbanc House, an extraordinary piece of
Perched on top of Castle Hill (Grajska planota) and dom- early 20th-century flamboyance and site of the soon to be
inating the city skyline to the south, Ljubljanas magnifi- reopened Centromerkur department store.QD3.
cent castle stands on the site of several former defensive
buildings in a hilly area of land stretching away to the Tivoli Park
south of the old town. The current ensemble of build- Tivoli is where the people of Ljubljana who dont leave the
ings originates from necessary 16th-century recon- city spend the weekend. Laid out in 1813 as a place for the
struction work following the earthquake of 1511, with general health and recreation of the citys population, at
several later additions. some five square kilometres, Ljubljanas gargantuan bu-
The main points of interest for the visitor are the Outlook colic lung - literally two streets west of the city centre - is
Tower (Razgledni Stolp), built in the 19th century and so packed with good things to see and do that its almost
raised a further 1.2m by the government in 1982. The worth visiting the Slovenian capital just to come here.
towers Virtual Castle screens a 12-minute film showing Set amidst rolling hills, Tivoli Park is a pleasant mixture of
an interesting and informative history of the castle. lawns (picnics encouraged: something of a shock in this
On the same floor you find a small door that takes you part of the world), pastures, wooded areas and fun adven-
to the top of the tower up some 100 red cast-iron steps, ture playgrounds for the kids (who will love the mini-golf
each individually decorated with an image of the tower best of all). The best way to enjoy the park is by bike, and
and the citys dragon. A door at the top leads to a small bicycles are available for rent from various points through-
viewing platform (not for the faint hearted) with won- out the park during the summer. You will need to leave ID
derful views of the city. as a guarantee you will bring the bike back.
A new and beautifully presented permanent Exhibition As well as its reputation as the top nature spot in the area,
on Slovene History is now also open for visitors - see Tivoli Park also houses a number of cultural sights includ-
more info under Museums & Galleries. The castle also ing the International Centre of Graphic Arts in the glorious
has a small art gallery featuring temporary exhibitions, 17th century Tivolski Grad (Tivoli Mansion), the Museum
a caf, restaurant and souvenir shop. Its also a popular of Modern History and, in the parks far southwestern
place for local weddings, and during the summer puts reaches, in an area designated as a nature reserve, the
on concerts and, in July, hosts an outdoor cinema. To citys half-decent zoo. Also look out for the monument to
reach it, several small paths lead up from the old town, Primo Trubar at the entrance to the park. Trubar was an
or take the funicular next to the Puppet Theatre and early force in Slovene literature and the creation of a Slo-
open market. Q Grajska Planota 1, +386 (0)306 42 vene national identity.QA/B2.
93, info-center@ljubljanskigrad.si, www.ljubljan-
skigrad.si. Open 09:00 - 21:00. With funicular/with- Triple Bridge (Tromostovje)
out funicular - adults 10/7.50, students/children/ Perhaps Ljubljanas most characteristic structure(s), the
seniors/groups 7/5.20, families 32/26. Funicular triple bridge is a curious merger of a 19th century road
return/one way - adults 4/2.20, students/children/ bridge (itself replacing a medieval wooden bridge), with
seniors/groups 3/1.50, families 26/19. Guided two 1930s pedestrian bridges designed by Plenik, who
tour 6-10. Special discounts for families. took the opportunity to do up the whole ensemble with
lamps and stone balustrades.QD3.
58 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Sightseeing
modern day, the museum caters to adults and children alike.
The Skyscraper (Nebotinik) Check out their fabulous website for details and upcoming
Believe it or not, this lovely little skyscraper was, at exhibitions.QC4, Gosposka 15, tel. +386 (0)1 241 25 00,
70 metres, the highest building in the Kingdom of www.mgml.si. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00.
Yugoslavia and the ninth tallest high-rise in all of Eu- Closed Mon. Admission 4, students and children 2.50.
rope when it opened on 21 February 1933. Nowadays Temporary exhibitions 6, reduced 4, famiies 12.
its a mixed-used building, with shops on the ground
floor, offices and residential units in the middle, and a National Museum of Contemporary His-
restaurant, caf and lounge bar occupying the the top tory (Muzej Noveje Zgodovine Slovenije)
three floors - all of which offer excellent view of the If you needed a reason to visit Tivoli Park, its here. This
city, Alps and castle. QC-3, tefanova 1. fascinating museum inside a wonderful 18th-century
mansion presents the history of Slovenia from the period
around the start of WWI until the Slovenian Presidency of
Cemeteries the EU in 2008. Using a combination of well-presented ex-
ale Cemetery (Pokopalie ale) hibits including old photographs, clothing and household
Built on the site of a much earlier cemetery attached to the items the museum charts the often wobbly path of the
neighbouring (and still standing) Holy Cross Church, whats nation through and between the two world wars and the
arguably Pleniks Ljubljana masterpiece was completed in difficult and truly fascinating post-war communist years.
1940. The grand arched entrance complete with stark white The building itself is worth seeing alone, being a marvel-
colonnades supposedly represents the gateway between lous combination of original Baroque and the interesting
the lands of the living and the dead. Between them and the modernist work of the Slovenian architect Jurij Kobe, dat-
cemetery itself are a series of peculiar buildings, chapels and ing from 1991.QB1, Celovka 23, tel. +386 (0)1 300 96
monuments including the ale funeral home. Architectural 10, www.muzej-nz.si. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
styles abound, reflecting Pleniks vision of equality among In August, open till 20:00 on Tue, Thu and Sat. Admis-
religions. The cemetery itself, once you get there, is a plea- sion 3.50 for adults, 2.50 for children, 8 family.
sure to behold and is worthy of a good hours stroll. The fi-
nal resting place of many Slovenian greats including Plenik
himself, ale also contains a small area given over to the
Jewish population of the city.QL/M2, Med Hmeljniki 2,
tel. +386 (0)1420 17 00, www.zale.si. Open 07:00 - 19:00,
April-September 07:00-21:00.

Monuments
Robba Fountain (Robbov Vodnjak)
One of the most famous landmarks in the city, this lovely
1751 fountain is named after its creator, the Italian Baroque
sculptor Francesco Robba (1698-1757), and is also known
as The Fountain of Three Carniolan Rivers. It was the last of
Robbas Ljubljana creations. The eight years it took him to
complete it essentially bankrupted the man, and he finally
left the city for Zagreb. Based loosely on the grand foun-
tains of Rome, the artists masterpiece features three river
gods, supposedly representing the Krka, Ljubljanica and
Sava rivers. Note the the monument standing in Mestni
Trg is a replica, the original having been moved inside the
lobby of the National Gallery in order to protect it from the
elements.QD3, Mestni Trg.

Museums & Galleries


City Museum (Mestni Muzej Ljubljana)
A magnificent museum run by a team of historians who
know how to show people a good time, its exhibits show-
case the history of Ljubljana in all its colours, both the good
and the bad. Featuring both permanent and temporary ex-
hibitions, this is the best place in town for a crash-course
in the citys history. From the worlds oldest wooden wheel
and axle to the Faces of Ljubljana, from the Roman era to A stroll along the central promenade in Tivoli is a must

www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket March - April 2017 59


Sightseeing
506, prijava@mgml.si, www.mgml.si. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon, Only guided tours, scheduled every hour, last
one starts at 17:00. Admission 6, reduced 4, families 12.
Scheduled guided tours: up to 4 persons 30; 4 or more
persons 7 per person, reduced 5 per person.

THE SLOVENIAN SCHOOL MUSEUM


Currently housed in a former school, having been open
since 1898, this small museum recreates the institutional
atmosphere of former days with exhibits of old school
rooms, uniforms, equipment and books. Covering edu-
cation from Roman times to the twentieth century, this
is a place that every schoolchild in Slovenia visits at least
once, and will be of interest to all pedagogues and his-
torians. The front door takes some finding, but ring the
NATIONAL MUSEUM OF SLOVENIA (NAROdNI bell for entry, and ask for the printed guide in English if
MUzEj) not given one. Group visitors can email to arrange a 19th-
Found lurking inside another of the citys fine, late 19th- century demonstration class, in English or Slovene.QC-3,
century neo-Renaissance buildings complete with fine Plenikov trg 1, tel. +386 (0)1 251 30 24, www.ssolski-
painted ceilings and elaborate sculptures on the stairs, muzej.si. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Open
this is the oldest museum in country, founded way back in every 1st Sat of the month 10:00 - 14:00. 2 for Slovenians,
1821. Permanent archaeological displays proudly show off 1 for foreign visitors.
Slovenias unique past, including the worlds oldest musi-
cal instrument (a 60,000 year old Neanderthal flute) and
the famous situla from Vae. The museums collection now arChiteCture
spreads to another location in Ljubljanas museum quarter
in Metelkova.QB-3, Muzejska 1, tel. +386 (0)12 41 44 00, COOPERATIVE COMMERCIAL BANK
www.nms.si. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Ad- (zAdRUNA GOSPOdARSKA BANKA)
mission 4-8.5. One of the most unique, but not extremely well-known,
buildings in Ljubljana is the almost surreally colourful
NATIONAL MUSEUM OF SLOVENIA - METELKOVA Zadruna Gospodarska Banka (or Cooperative Commercial
The newest wing of the National Museum can be found in Bank) on Mikloieva Ulica just north of Preernov Trg. De-
Metelkova, the subversive beating heart of the city. Being signed by Slovene architect Ivan Vurnik in 1921 and finished
Metelkova it was always going to have an artistic spin with the following year, the buildings unmistakable faade was
what it offers, and we arent disappointed. The Slovene actually painted by his wife Helena, herself a Vienna-born
Ethnographic Museum, Museum of Contemporary Art, artist. While the building is squarely rooted in the Seces-
Slovenian Cinemateque and the Institute for the Protec- sionist movement, which itself is part of the wider Art Nou-
tion of Cultural Heritage are all here, as well as a perma- veau period, it also must be considered one of the finest
nent exhibition showcasing the heritage of applied art examples of Slovenian national style architecture, as the
throughout the country.QMaistrova 1, tel. +386 (0)1 230 faade and interior wall paintings is a stylised interpretation
70 30, www.nms.si. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. of traditional Slovenian iconography. QMikloieva 8

PLENIK HOUSE (PLENIKOVA HIA)


Walking around Ljubljana you are guaranteed to encounter
the stunning architectural landmarks of Joe Plenik. Apart
from reading our excellent feature on the great man, the best
way to get know to who the man behind so much of this
beautiful city was, is to head to his former home in Trnovo.
Preserved and transformed into a museum, Pleniks home
from the street looks like many of the other old homes in the
area though the master designer left his mark on this house
too, expanding the original building with a cylindrical annex
and winter garden, as well as equipping the house and gar-
den with inventive furnishings of his own design. Permanent
exhibitions at the house showcase Pleniks substantial archi-
tectural legacy in Vienna, Prague and of course Ljubljana, as
well as give visitors a window into the eccentric designers
personal life and history. The museum can only be visited as
part of a guided tour.QK-4, Karunova 4, tel. +386 (0)1 24 12
60 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Sightseeing
learn about the castles fascinating history and get to
Urbana Ljubljana enjoy beautiful city views from the ramparts.QMestni
Trg, tel. +386 (0)1 306 12 15, www.visitljubljana.com/
Tourist Card en/visitors/tours-and-trips/. Tours depart daily at
10:00 (Apr-Sep) or 11:00 (Oct-Mar). Tickets 13, chil-
Rated as one of Eu- dren 4-12 6.5, and can be booked online or pur-
ropes best city cards, chased at both TIC (Adami Lundrovo Nabreje 2)
Tourism Ljubljanas and STIC (Krekov Trg 10).
Urbana offers free
admission to all of the A beer lovers Experience of Ljubljana
citys main sights as Locals love their beer, but Ljubljanas brewing tradition
well as free unlimited is far older than most people would imagine. In fact,
transport LPPs exten- it goes back some four millennium, which was proven
sive urban bus network. The card can be purchased at by the discovery of 3,900-year-old beer barrels during
most hotels and all three of Ljubljanas Tourist Informa- excavation the Ljubljana Marshes, a UNESCO Heritage
tion Centres (on Adami-Lundrovo Nabreje, at the main site just south of the modern city. The earliest known
train station and on Krekov Trg). Prices are 23/30/35 for brewery in Ljubljana dates back at least to 1592, and
24/48/72 hours, and the card - which contains RFID chip by 1796 the city had six breweries, which all the more
- is activated upon its first use. Order online and save 10% impressive since it had less than 10,000 inhabitants at
of the regular price!Qwww.visitljubljana.com. 24-hour that time. Meanwhile, recent years have seen a rapid
card 23, 48-hour card 30, 72-hour card 35. growth in the popularity of craft beers made by dif-
ferent microbreweries in Ljubljana and its surrounding
area. The Beer Experience Tour includes a stop in a local
Tours pub, with participants getting to taste eight different
Ljubljanas Attractions and Art beers from five different breweries, two based in Lju-
Beginning in front of the Town Hall, the tour takes you bljana and three in other parts of the Central Slovenia
past many of the citys famous Art Nouveau buildings. region. Afterwards, the tour continues to the award-
A walk along the promenade connecting the historical winning Brewery Museum at Pivovarna Union, where
city centre with Tivoli Park will bring you to the National the popular Union beer has been brewed since 1864,
Gallery, which keeps Slovenias largest art collection. On and finishes at the brewerys own Pivnica Union pub.
Mondays, when the gallery is closed, the tour includes a QKrekov Trg 10, tel. +386 (0)1 306 12 15, tic@visitlju-
visit to a rotating exhibition of large-format photographs bljana.si. Tickets 35, and can be booked online or
in Tivoli Park instead. After the gallery there are visits to purchased at both TIC (Adami Lundrovo Nabreje 2)
two of Ljubljanas central public squares, Trg Republike and STIC (Krekov Trg 10).
and Kongresni Trg, the sites of a number of important
events in the history of Ljubljana. The tour includes a
stop at one of Ljubljanas traditional restaurants, where
you will have an opportunity to taste local Slovenian National University Library (Narodna
dishes as part of a short tasting session.QMestni Trg, tel. in Univerzitetna Knjinica)
+386 (0)1 306 12 15, https://www.visitljubljana.com/ Known to locals by its Slovene acronym NUK, the
en/visitors/tours-and-trips/regular-city-tour-the- library was originally established by Empress Maria
sights-of-ljubljana-and-a-boat-cruise/. Tours depart Theresa in 1774 and moved to its current Plenik de-
daily at 17:00 from Apr-Sept. Tickets 13, children un- signed building in 1941. Aside from serving as one
der-12 6.5, and can be booked online or purchased of the countrys central educational and cultural in-
at both TIC (Adami Lundrovo Nabreje 2) and STIC stitutions - containing some 2.6 million volumes -its
(Krekov Trg 10). also considered one of the prolific architects most
monumental works, and is a must see for visitors to
Historical City Centre Tour Ljubljana. Highlights include the somewhat schizo-
Beginning in front of the Town Hall, the tour takes you phrenic brick and stone faade, the colonnaded
through the historical city centre, whose unique archi- central staircase and the massive main reading room.
tecture is the legacy of the Baroque and Art Nouveau A planned expansion on nearby Zoisova Cesta has
periods and, most notably, the work of the famed 20th been in the works for nearly 20 years, but has been
century architect Joe Plenik. The tour includes a stop plagued by a host of problems - most notably caused
at one of Ljubljanas traditional restaurants, where you by the discovery of Roman ruins, which is a surpris-
will have an opportunity to taste local Slovenian dishes ingly common occurrence in and around the city.
as part of a short tasting session. Next the tour con- QC-4, Turjaka 1, tel. +386 (0)1 200 11 88, info@
tinues up to Ljubljana Castle via the funicular railway. nuk.uni-lj.si, www.nuk.uni-lj.si. Open 09:00-18:00,
Standing on a hill above the city for some 900 years, Sat 09:00-14:00. Closed Sun.
the castle is the citys main attraction. Participants will
62 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
TIMEMACHINE
FroM EMoNA To A CITy SyMbol
SIx TIME STATIoNS
SIx CoSTuMEd CHArACTErS
a Castle guide more than just a classic guided tour of the Ljubljana castle

JULIJ, AVGUST in
SEPTEMBER
vsak dan
11.00, 13.00, 15.00, 17.00
MARCH,
MAJ, JUNIJAPRIL
Saturday
vsak dan and Sunday
11.00,
11.00, 15.00
15.00
JANUAR, FEBRUAR,
MAREC, APRIL, OKTOBER,
NOVEMBER in DECEMBER
sobota in nedelja
11.00, 15.00

a 14r
st 20
a
j
n letdu a todu
e thicu
n aideeninogale
Mospsesic g
r vodja
jenbl
U leeoblajguradu!
clakoth
i a

Vef t keg
o l j ans e!
Lju stl
b
Za obiske
dogodkov
priporoamo
vonjo z
ca
vzpenjao.

Info center 9.00-20.00


T +386 1 306 42 93 M +386 51 381 690
E info-center@ljubljanskigrad.si
www.ljubljanskigrad.si

@Ljubljanskigrad Ljubljana Castle


and always kept personal and intimate. Discover local in-
dependent businesses, homemade food from high-end
gourmet to comfort food, from craft beer to wine, and
get all wrapped up in the stories along the way. For more
information head to the website, which is choc-full of in-
formation, interviews, food blogs and much more.Qtel.
+386 (0)41 878 959, www.ljubljananjam.si.

Pleniks Way Walking Tour


It would be no great exaggeration to say that much of
the beauty of Ljubljana could be laid at the feet of one
man. Joe Plenik was one of the pioneers of contempo-
rary architecture, and to say his work left a distinct mark
on Ljubljana (as well as Vienna and Prague) would be
an understatement. In fact, to call it an understatement
would be an understatement. Most of his work in our fair
capital is from the period after 1921, when he returned
from abroad, and this takes up the bulk of the tour avail-
able.
The two hour official tour requires booking ahead, is avail-
able in a number of languages and covers a large chunk of
Pleniks work in the centre of town, including Tromost-
voje (Triple Bridge), the central markets and more. Prices
start from 50 for groups of up to five people.
Alternatively, grab yourself a bike and see the whole lot, in-
cluding Pleniks cemeteries (ale and Navje). To truly get
under the skin of Ljubljana, exploration of Pleniks oeuvre
is a must.Qwww.visitljubljana.com.
Tourist train. Photo: Dunja Wedam
Roundabout Travel
Ljubljananjam Food & Drink Walks Travel agencies may be cropping up everywhere in the
Within the world of travel and tourism, one thing that modern day, but weve not come across any more concise
seems to be constant is a love of good food. It has often and professional than the good folk at Roundabout. With
been said that the best way to experience a culture is an impressive selection of both public and private tours,
through the taste buds, and Iva and her Ljubljananjam as well as off-cruise options and jaunts into neighbour-
Foodwalks are here to make sure nobody misses out ing countries, only the pickiest of people would struggle
whilst in town. Devoted to lovers of good food, be they to find something to float their boat here. Head to the
local or foreign, Ljubljananjam organises gourmet food website for a complete list of tours available.QPot Draga
and drink walks through downtown Ljubljana, custom- Jakopia 6, tel. +386 (0) 51 601 601/+386 (0)41 78 61 68,
ised to the tastes and budgets of those taking the walk www.roundabout.si.

Tourist Information
Slovenian Tourist Information Center (STIC) Ljubljana Tourist Information Centre (TIC)
Ljubljanas central tourist office is a bit larger and usu- A small but extremely well equipped resource with
ally less crowded than the main branch located a few plenty of maps, brochures galore in English, informa-
hundred metres away opposite Preeren Square, and tion about whats on in the city and a range of in-
they also helpfully stock heaps of maps, brochures and formation on what to see and do in the region. They
general information for the entire country. Tickets for also organise tours, can help with accommodation,
most events in and around town can be purchased, and and should be one of your first ports of call when you
the staff will gladly give you a run down of the various arrive. Their website is one of the best weve seen in
tours and excursions on offer. Bicycle rentals are also Central Europe and is well worth further investiga-
available for only 8 per day, and are a great way to see tion. Friendly, informative staff too.QD3, Adami-
more of the city.QC3, Krekov Trg 10, tel. +386 (0)1 306 Lundrovo Nabreje 2, tel. +386 (0)13 06 12 15, fax
45 75, fax +386 (0)1 306 45 80, stic@visitljubljana. +386 (0)13 06 12 04, tic@visitljubljana.si, www.
com, www.visitljubljana.com. Open Oct - May 08:00 visitljubljana.com. Open daily Oct - May 08:00 -
- 19:00, Sat - Sun 09:00 - 17:00, Jun-Sept 08:00 - 21:00. 19:00, June - Sept 08:00 - 21:00.

64 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


Sightseeing
Time Machine At The Castle as well as the vegetable gardens located in the Krakovo dis-
While it may be an often-claimed slogan, the Time Machine trict. QAdami Lundrovo 2, tel. +386 (0)1 306 12 15, tic@
guided tour at Ljubljana Castle truly is a tour like no other. visitljubljana.si. Tours depart Wed and Sun at 12:00 from
Follow the history of one of the biggest symbols of Ljubljana the TIC office. Other times can be arranged for groups of
through six of its most important periods, from Roman Emona 10 or more. Tickets 38, children under-12 28, and can
through to the 20th century. You are guided along each step be booked online or purchased at both TIC (Adami Lun-
by a different costumed character from each time, creating a drovo Nabreje 2) and STIC (Krekov Trg 10).
unique atmosphere that we cant help but enjoy. Starting from
the information point at the castle, the tour runs from 11:00
and 15:00 every Sat and Sun from October to April.QGrajska Around Ljubljana
Planota 1, tel. +386 (0)1 232 99 94, www.ljubljanskigrad. marna Gora
si. Oct - Dec - Sat and Sun 11:00, 15:00. Admission: 10 Along with its little sister near the centre, Ronik, the hill of
(12 with funicular), students/children/seniors/groups 7 marna Gora is a favourite local hiking hotspot for Ljubljanani
(8.40 with funicular), families 26 (32 with funicular). (Ljubljana folk). Dominating the capitals skyline to the north, its
two stout peaks rise 676m and 669m to form a bosom shaped
Taste Ljubljana Culinary Tour mound thats just begging to be rambled. To the left, the peak of
The tour gives insight into traditional dishes from Ljubljana, Grmada (traditionally where witches were burned at the stake)
which today are mostly prepared using modern cooking is the quieter option, with commanding views to the west and
methods and have recently been given new life as part of the also across Ljubljana. The right peak is home to a restaurant and
much-acclaimed Taste Ljubljana project. The tour includes caf, with panoramic views on all sides: of Ljubljana, east to-
five different restaurants, with a different dish and drink to wards the hill of Raica and north towards the Alps. On sunny
try at each stop. Ljubljanas flourishing culinary scene is now days the various tables, benches and sun loungers are sure to
more diverse than ever, and the tour tries to show this with be completely packed, and the visit is not complete without or-
a wide range of destinations on the itinerary, including a dering a serving of small suger-covered donuts known as mike
street food outlet, a traditional gostilna restaurant, a modern (mice) to enjoy along with the view. Although there are numer-
restaurant that follows the promotes socially responsible en- ous paths to the top, by far the most popular is from the village of
trepreneurship, a catering outlet located at a popular lookout Tacen, which can easily be reached by public transport (bus line
point, and a spirits shop offering traditional Slovenian bran- 8). The walk to the top takes 30-45 minutes depending on how
dies. To learn about the locally sourced ingredients used in leisurely the pace. And dont forget to ring the bell and make a
most of the dishes, the tour also visits the citys Central Market wish on the way down!Qwww.smarnagora.com.

66 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


Leisure

Are you brave enough to try Europes first virtual reality haunted house aka Hia Strahov?

Escape Rooms variety of clues and challenges you and your team (and
Escape Room Enigmarium a good team is necessary) must find the answer to this
On the face of it, getting locked into a room and having escape game in less than 60 minutes. It certainly isnt
one hour to escape might not sound like a normal way easy, and neither should it be. Strangely, we cant think
to spend an afternoon, but then Escape Room Enig- of a more fun way to spend an hour. QD-3, Trubarjeva
marium isnt your normal activity. The first of its kind cesta 24, tel. +386 (0)41 99 17 71, info@mindmaze.si,
in town, six different uniquely themed rooms (all their http://mindmaze.si. Open 10:00 - 21:30.
own creation) throughout Ljubljana encourage teams
to work together to decipher clues, complete chal- The Key Escape Room
lenges and eventually be set free, the culmination of There arent many escape rooms where you can say
quite simply one of the most fun activities in the city. youve moved from the world of Leonardo Da Vinci
No language expertise is needed, so take on a character to that of Sherlock Holmes, but The Key Escape Room
and let your inner code breaker run wild. Head to the gives you exactly that experience with visitors tackling
website for available times and booking information. two rooms in a 70-minute time limit. There is also a
QTrdinova ulica 8, tel. +386 (0)31 33 44 88, escape- Wonderland escape room especially designed for kids.
room.si. All the rooms feature a variety of different challenges,
each more inventive than the next, team work is the
Mind Maze Ljubljana key. Challenges are tough but undeniably fun, making
At Mind Maze Ljubljana, youve got two options; Either The Key Escape Room a guaranteed good time. It also
transport yourself back to the 16th century and em- happens to be just a thirty-second walk from Preeren
brace your inner alchemist in searching for the golden Square down the street named Trubarjeva. QObrena
egg, or become a hero and save Occupied Ljubljana. Steza 2, tel. +386 (0)30 23 23 23, info@thekey.si,
Two escape rooms requiring equal parts logic and www.thekey.si. Open 13:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 -
imagination in order to get out, by working through a 22:00.
www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket March - April 2017 67
Leisure
aCtiVities Planetarium
NEW
HORROR HOUSE (HIA STRAHOV) PLANETARIUM LjUBLjANA
Europes first virtual reality haunted house or Hia strahov If ber optimist and visionary Elon Musk aka the real-
in Slovene scares the crap out of us - that might also be life Tony Stark is to be believed, space travel will be-
because we just watched a certain Black Mirror episode. come an affordable luxury within the not too distant
Just like horror movies plenty of you will laugh through future, with humans colonising Mars and everyone on
the whole Haunted House experience and absolutely love back on Earth driving a Tesla and living off solar power.
it - you folks are weird just saying, while the rest of us will However, regardless of whether or not this becomes re-
have a different kind of memorable adrenaline packed ex- ality, you can already experience the wonder of space
perience, with complementary takeaway nightmares. Wed travel without risk or evening leaving the centre of
recommend going as a group - its more fun that way plus Ljubljana, as the city now boasts its own planetarium.
scaredy-cats can hold hands. Note kids under 12 need adult In addition to fun and educational films about space,
supervision. QF-3, ilirska 15, tel. +386 (0)40 660 655, the Artdomes library includes dozens of other titles
info@hisastrahov.si, www.hisastrahov.si. Open 12:00- specially-produced to take advantage of the facilities,
22:00, Fri 12:00-23:00, Sat 10:00-23:00, Sun 10:00-22:00. from dinosaurs to abstract visual art, and is expanding
From 12.90 - 30 per person. By appointment only. all the time. Films are both in English and Slovene, and
up-to-date info about the current programme can be
MUSEUM OF ILLUSIONS ( MUzEj ILUzIj) found on the website. So look for the large white dome
Inst it aimzang waht the hmaun mnid is cbapale of seineg. at Pload Ajdovina, grab a comfy reclining chair
To experience just how much your eyes and mind can be de- and enjoy the ride! QC-2, Planetarium Ljubljana, tel.
ceived as well as learn how it is being tricked go check out the +386 (0)70 146 977, info@artdomecinema360.eu,
fascinating and informative Museum of Illusions. Best enjoyed artdomecinema360.eu. Open 12:00 - 20:00.
by groups, take the family or go with friends or colleagues for
a fun packed hour or two exploring the museums three sto- games room where you can try your hand at brain tickling
reys of tricky optical illusions and mind bending installations puzzles and games which the museum also sell. QKon-
- perhaps avoid the vortex tunnel if youve just had lunch or gresni trg 13, tel. +386 (0)1 320 54 66, info@muzejiluzij.si,
a few drinks (the museum is open til 10pm). There is also a muzejiluzij.si/en/. Open 09:00 - 22:00.

68 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


Families & Kids

The Museum of Puppetry can be found in Ljubljana Castle, open daily 10:00 - 19:00

Travelling with the little ones can definitely be a chal- much more to Mala Ulica than just a playtime heaven. A for-
lenge, and Ljubljana does not always cater to the sand- ward-thinking social program, it provides as much for parents
box segment of the population, but with our useful as it does children. Fairytales enhance the educational aspect,
guide to kid-friendly places in town, boredom should and workshops are frequently put on including language
easily be held at bay. Let the children delve into these classes, and even origami. Not only that, but fairytales and
great venues and events. workshops are held throughout the year, even on holidays.
QPrena ulica 7, tel. +386 (0)1 306 27 00, www.malaulica.
si. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
family-friendly dining
SOMBRERO
Although it might seem a strange combination at first ap- entertainment & eVents
pearance, this Tex-Mex themed caf and bar in the Fuine HOUSE OF ExPERIMENTS (HIA EKSPERIMEN-
neighbourhood is about as family-friendly as they come, TOV)
especially if the parents like to enjoy a grown-up drink Based on similar wacky, fun and educational places around
while the kids amuse themselves on the playground. Whats the globe, the extraordinary House of Experiments features
more, during the summer months the playground is sup- three rooms of purpose-built experiments for the ultimate
plemented by two additional inflatable bouncy houses, one hands-on experience. Visitors are free to wander around as
resembling an aquarium and the other consisting of two they wish, engaging with anything that takes their fancy,
huge slides. Located in the far east of town near the ring whether its a giant bubble maker, electronic insects, dancing
road, with the surrounding trees and fields the area has a liquid or a machine that plays music according to your weight.
rural feel to it. Buses 11, 20 and 25 will get you there from They also provide what they call Adventures, namely small
the city centre, or its a pleasant 45-minute walk along the performances that aim to show different scientific principles,
Ljubljanica river. QNove Fuine 49, tel. +386 (0)41 57 63 with enticing names like the Centre of Gravitology, Eggology
92 peter.sombrero@gmail.com. Open 06:00 - 24:00. etc. QE-3, Trubarjeva 39, tel. +386 (0)13 00 68 88, info@h-
e.si, www.h-e.si. Open to the public Sat & Sun 11:00-19:00.
Groups can book special visits outside these days too.
family Centres
MALA ULICA PUPPET THEATRE LjUBLjANA (LUTKOVNO
Upon entering Mala Ulica, we can honestly say that weve GLEdALIE)
never desired to be children once more quite as much. It truly Regardless of where you come from, we can all remember
is a childs heaven. The interior well and truly comes to life, being enchanting by puppets as children. Whether it was on
with Ljubljanas most famous buildings carved into the walls, TV or live performances, children all over the world sat (and
the perfect mesh of education and fun. A large outdoor area, still sit) wide-eyed and bushy-trailed as the puppet shows
library tower and labyrinth can also be found, but there is so unravelled before their eyes. Lutkovno Gledalie, the central
www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket March - April 2017 69
Families & Kids
Slovenian puppet theatre, has been joyfully creating puppet
Ljubljana Zoo shows since 1948. Slovenia has a proud puppet heritage, and
the theatre goes a long way to preserving it. Taking up its cur-
Much like Ljubljana itself, and even Slovenia as a rent residence in 1984 on Krekov trg, the theatre has six ven-
whole, the Ljubljana Zoo succeeds in fitting a lot of ues in total and is visited by 110,000 people every single year.
interesting, entertaining and educational sights all in Inside the theatre we also find an adorable bookstore, where
one small easily manageable package. While it cant childrens books, gifts and souvenirs can be purchased. Head
compete with some of the much larger and better to the website for a full calendar of events.QKrekov trg 2, tel.
known zoos in Europe in terms of scale, theres an +386 (0)1 300 08 92, blagajna@lgl.si, www.lgl.si.
equally diverse range of animals, and perhaps an even
more innovative programme of activities, including at
least a few things that we guarantee you wont find Shopping for Kids
anywhere else. Ristanc
Some of the most popular animals are conveniently This small toy store is our first stop whenever we need gifts
housed near the main entrance, including the Cali- for kids, as it has perhaps the finest selection of wooden,
fornian sea lions, who playfully demonstrate their educational and fun items in the country. From traditional
aquatic skills (and love of fish) twice a day for amazed toys, puzzles and puppets to more recent creations, theres
spectators. One of our personal favourites are the clan something to delight everyone, and all without cartoon
of meerkats that always seem to be up to something characters, flashing lights, moulded plastic or batteries. Af-
and are super cute whilst doing it. Youll notice one ter more than 20 years in the business the owner - a linguist,
of them at all times standing on the highest rock on teacher and all-round enthusiast - has a good feel for what
the lookout for birds of prey and other dangers. Other her customers want, even if theyre not sure themselves, so
crowd pleasers nearby are the giraffes, red pandas, be sure to ask if you need suggestions for a specific age.
leopards and tigers. Strongly recommended.QGallusovo Nabreje 11, tel.
Located to the west of the city centre, and surrounded +386 (0)1425 24 36, ristanc.ls@gmail.com, www.ristanc.
by the natural forests at the edge of Ronik hill, the zoo si. Open 09:00-19:00, Sat 09:00-14:00, Sun 10:00-13:00.
is easily reached by public transport (bus 18), taxi (3-
4) or on foot (25-35 minutes). Thanks to its position it Nama Kids
stays refreshing cool here during the summer months, Up on the fifth floor of the Nama store in the centre of Lju-
and is completely insulated from the noise and com- bljana, the kids section here is something to behold. It re-
motion of the city throughout the year.QI3, Vena ally is difficult not to reminisce about childhood, as cuddly
Pot 70, tel. +386 (0)1 244 21 88, info@zoo.si, www. toys, board games, animal figurines and other toys fill up
zoo.si. Open daily 09:00-16:00 in Jan-Feb, 09:00- every possible space. An impressive range of clothes can
17:00 in Mar & Oct, 09:00-18:00 in Apr & Sept, and also be found, covering ages from just born up to grow-
09:00-19:00 May-Aug. Admission 8 for adults, 7 ing pains. A small area is also on hand, as well as a caf for
students/seniors, 5.50 children, 2 persons with parents to get a well-deserved sit down. QTomieva 2,
disabilities, 2 dogs. Free for children under 2. tel. +386 (0)1 425 85 00, info@nama.si, www.nama.si.
Open 09:-00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

Sweets & Ice Cream


opomana
The kitchen of this exceedingly welcoming caf is known
to produce some of the best cakes in town, while during
the spring and summer months the homemade, all-natural
ice cream does such an efficient job of drawing in the local
neighbourhood children that even the Pied Piper of Hame-
lin would be jealous. However, what really sets opomana
apart is their willingness to organise childrens birthday par-
ties, with specially tailored workshops where the pint-sized
chefs can try their hand at preparing cakes, macarons and
the aforementioned ice cream which of course then gets
eaten or taken home to share with parents. All in all a highly
recommended destination for kids of all ages and anyone
with a sweet tooth. To get there, its just a few minutes walk
from the city centre down Celovka Cesta along Tivoli Park
or two bus stops to Stara Cerkev.QK-3, Aljaeva 4a, tel.
+386 (0) 41 632 630. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sun. PTA6BS
70 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
BTC & Citypark
in your pocket 2016 146,25x140 mm.indd 1
in your pocket 2016 146,25x140 mm.indd 1
1.10.2016 19:54:52
1.10.2016 19:54:52

The largest retail centre in the region, BTC


not only features some 450 shops selling
everything you can imagine, but also boasts
restaurants galore, bars, a multiplex
cinema, indoor go-cart racing and much
more
www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket March - April 2017 71
bTc city
page 75
1 bTc ciTy - shoPPing
cenTer

2 page 75

10 3 8

CER

ALPINA
3
5

MINICITY

CLOTHES - SHOES - ACCESORIES

page 40 page 74
4 5

LJUBLJANA

www.hoodburger.si
citypark
page 75
ciTyParK - shoPPing 10
cenTer

page 75
INDOOR M-TEHNIKA
9
KARTING
2

VETERINARSKA
INTERSPORT AMBULANTA BTC CITY
GOLF

page 74 8
9 4
7

page 75 page 74
6 7

KAVARNA Wolfova 14 Slovenska cesta 34 (hotel Slon)


martinska cesta 152 (BTC, Hala 12) Puharjeva 9 (Narodna
Galerija) BISTRO Kongresni trg 3 DELI Wolfova 12
www.zvezdaljubljana.si www.facebook.si/zvezdaljubljana
well shielded by a vine covered front terrace. Open from
early til late and with an wide selection of typical Slovene,
Mediterranean and International dishes, Brajda is the type
of place you can visit anytime of the day be it for break-
fast, lunch or dinner - grab a morning coffee, tuck into a
great value lunch menu or enjoy a glass of local wine with
snacks in the evening.QM3, martinska 152, tel. +386
(0)1 585 27 73, www.tavernabrajda.si/. Open 06:00
22:30, Fri 06:0024:00. Closed Sun. PiABKW

Tavern Rival
Balkan Express This restaurant works closely with a local fish market to en-
sure youll always get the freshest seafood on your plate.
While baking is the house style you can get your fish, octo-
restaurants pus, squid or crustacean prepared in almost any way you can
Balkan Express imagine - barbecued, grilled, fried, cooked in salt, in stew,
What better way to deal with an exhausting day of shopping soup, or risotto, or with gnocchi, potatoes and salad. Theres
than hoeing into a big plate of juicy evapii. Thankfully no need to worry about having too much choice, as in addi-
Balkan Express at the first floor dining area in City Park BTC tion to an a la carte menu theres also a daily buffet So when
has us covered with a solid range of Balkan favourites from youre next in BTC, why not come along enjoy a touch of the
smoky grills meats to burek and make sure to leave room for Mediterranean in the middle of Ljubljana. Q M-2, Trnica
baklava. And if you dont want to go to BTC but have a crav- BTC City, Ljubljana, tel. +386 (0) 585 17 69, www.rival-
ing for pleskavica, Balkan Express also delivers throughout trade.si. Open 9:00 - 17:00, Sat 9:00 -15:00. Closed Sun.
Ljubljana seven days a week. QM-3, martinska 152g, tel.
+386 (0)41 390 500, www.balkan-express.si. Open 10:00
- 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. PVS BTC Street Food Park
A permanent street food market can now be found in the
bollywood BTC City shopping district, featuring a half dozen stands of-
There are relatively few Indian restaurants in Ljubljana, fering a wide variety of cuisine. For Ljubljanas most popu-
which makes the opening of Bollywood even more wel- lar wraps theres Frks, while Hood Burger can largely be
come, even if it is some way out of town at the Trnica BTC credited with starting the citys burger craze when it first
City shopping centre. Still, its definitely worth the trip, as opened back in 2011. Fans of Asian cuisine can line up at
this place offers traditional Indian cooking, served fast food the excellent Chutys for authentic Thai, while vegetarians
style, so theres no need to wait for your curry. Using local will have plenty of Indian and Mediterranean-inspired op-
ingredients, but Indian spices, chef Nishab creates daily tions at Radha Govinda. If youd prefer to keep it simple,
menus with dishes that showcase different levels of heat, Top Dunajc whips up some gourmet Wienerschnitzel and
and offer something to suit all tastes, with takeaway avail- other assorted grilled dishes. And last but not least theres
able. On our trip we especially enjoyed the chicken tikka Spanish-style tapas from panska Vas, which looks very
masala and vegetarian thali. QTrnica BTC City, tel. +386 likely to be the next big culinary hit in town.
70 161 144, www. bollywood.si. S

Imperio Mexicano cafes


Good value Tex-Mex food, Imperio Mexicano also happens Argentino Caffe Club
to be the only Mexican restaurant in Slovenia with fresh corn Argentinos sprawling hacienda-style restaurant and
tortillas, meaning as close to a genuine Mexican culinary ex- shaded courtyard has long been a popular destination for
perience as youll get here. Great cocktails, an outstanding
house white, and great big portions of all your Tex-Mex fa- Imperio Mexicano
vourites: the chicken tortillas were particularly good. For big
groups shopping in City Park, you cant do much better. It also
delivers to your door anywhere in Ljubljana. M-3, martinska
152/G, tel. +386 (0)41 39 05 00, info@imperio.si, www.impe-
rio.si. Open 09:00-21:00. PTA6ULVGSW

Taverna Brajda
For some of us shopping is a chore and eating is a pleasure.
Thankfully Ljubljanas retail Mecca BTC also has great plac-
es to dine, like Taverna Brajda. Escape the shops and refuel
at this charming cafe and restaurant on the southern edge
of Dvorana A, which is rustic without being kitschy and
74 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
those in search of a well-cooked steak or just looking for a
quiet place to relax during a day of shopping in BTC City, so
it comes as no surprise that the adjacent caf and lounge
bar also regularly attracts a crowd. During the daytime you
can sample a coffee from the futuristic Rancilio Classe 11
Xcelsius espresso machine (which costs about the same
as a new mid-range car) or enjoy a fresh seasonal dessert,
while in the evenings theres a fireplace to gather around
with a glass of premium aged spirits and a fine cigar. QM-
3, martinska 152, BTC City, tel. +386 (0)31 417 201, arg.
caffeclub@gmail.com. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:00
- 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. ABXW

Zvezda
A bustling caf frequented by a battalion of clients from Citypark
students to pearl-laden old ladies. Zvezdas dcor leans in Boasting over 120 stores of all shapes and sizes, Citypark is
the direction of your classic Buddha lounge, with a scatter- Slovenias largest shopping centre, and the best place to find
ing of Oriental statues and some fine brown velvet wallpa- pretty much whatever you need while in Ljubljana. Besides
per. Not the cheapest caf in town, your money is at least the massive variety of stores - such as XYZ, K&O, Big Bang,
well spent. The coffee is strong enough to wake the dead, Desigual, Hervis, H&M and an Interspar hypermarket - there
and the cakes are some of the best and stickiest in town. is a terrific choice of places to eat, from Burger King to Thai
They also have a few more cafes about town, so if you food to traditional Slovenian. Unlike the city centre parking
need a sweet fix while shopping at BTC head to Hala 12 or is never a problem, and theres even a large childrens play
pause for coffee and cake at the National Gallery (Narodna area to keep the kids occupied. Find the Citypark page on
galerija); and there is another Zvedza on the ground floor Facebook to stay up to date with new openings and events.
of Hotel Slon. Q C-3, Wolfova 14/ BTC Hala 12, kavarna. QM3, martinska 152g, tel. +386 (0)1 587 30 50, info@
zvezda@siol.net, www.zvezdaljubljana.si. Open 08:00- citypark.si, www.citypark.si. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat
22:00, Sun 10:00-20:00.PTUGBSW 08:00- 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00.

XYZ Premium Fashion Store


SHOPPING Located in Citypark, XYZ are the coordinates for creating
BTC City a completely new, authentic and fresh look, and a popu-
The biggest thing of its kind in the country, the positively lar destination for Slovenias fashion lovers and trendset-
enormous BTC features not only some 450 shops selling ters. With more than 2000 square metres set across two
everything you could possibly imagine, but also boasts floors, shoppers can find more than 50 of the worlds most
restaurants galore, bars, a post office, multiplex cinema, in- recognised fashion brands, such as Armani Jeans, Hugo
door go-cart racing, a comedy theatre, billiards, volleyball Boss, Dsquared2, Elisabetta Franchi, Polo Ralph Lauren and
courts, an enormous water park, conference facilities and more. Next time youre in need of something new to wear,
its very own business district housing some of the best take the time to fashion a short vacation in the company
known local and international companies. Theres free of the latest collections from your favourite designers.
parking for more than 8,500 vehicles too, all just a couple QM-2, martinska 152g, Citypark. tel +386 (0)51 658
of kilometres out of the centre of the city in the general di- 535, xyz.citypark@sportina.si, www.xyz-stores.com.
rection of Maribor.QM3, martinska 152, tel. +386 (0)1 Open 09:00-21:00, Sat 08:00-21:00, Sun 09:00-15:00.
585 22 22, info@btc.si, www.btc-city.com/lang/Eng.
Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Activities
Tavern Rival Rollbar-Karting BTC
This subterranean not only comes complete with enough
racing paraphernalia to start your very own F1 museum, its
actually got a go-kart racing circuit and a bar. There are no
drink-driving laws here, just a bunch of electric go-carts and
a hangar-size space to wiggle them through. Not quite as
tame as it sounds, these go-carts when running on full power
have a top speed of 120km/h, restricted for obvious reasons
here to a more sensible albeit still stupidly fast 65km/h.QM2,
martinska 152 (BTC Hala 18), tel. +386 (0)1 585 25 70/+386
(0)51 603 333, info@indoor-karting.com, www.indoor-
karting.com. Open 07:30 - 23:00, Fri 07:30 - 24:00, Sat 08:00
- 24:00, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. AUEGBX W
www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket March - April 2017 75
Shopping

www.galerijaempoirum.si

want a genuine enjoyment of fashion of the most cur-


Fashion rent designQCiril Metodov Trg 2, tel. +386 (01) 439 37
Ljubljana is home to a selection of renowned international 90, www.bettybarclay.com. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat
brands, unique boutiques and its very own Slovenian- 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
made designer clothing, so you shouldnt have any trouble
finding something surprisingly original. Gerry Weber
If you are interested in high-end European fashion then
Bags make sure to stop by Wolfova Ulica in between Preeren
The aptly named Bags store on Wolfova stocks three world and Kongresni squares, where boutique after boutique
renowned and innovative brands, all of the highest qual- line the street. Among them is also an outlet of the re-
ity. Amongst them is the Italian label, Mandarina Duck - nowned German womens fashion label Gerry Weber.
iconic for its varied styles, forms and colours, which follow The dynamic lifestyle brand caters to women of all ages
contemporary urban trends. For the young and young at stocking classic and trendy outfits along with a range of
heart, Bags also offers Kipling, made of lightweight mate- stylish accessories. QD-3, Wolfova 6, tel. +386 (0)1 252
rials and great for everyday use. For those who are look- 78 35, tkan.wolfova@siol.net. Open 09:00-19:00, Sat
ing for something innovative yet more traditional there is 09:00-13:00. Closed Sun.
Victorinox, which offers guaranteed durability, whether Qmartinska 152g, Mon - Fri 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 -
youre after a bag or one of their well-known Swiss army 21:00, Sun 09.00 - 15:00.
knives. There is heaps more on offer, though youll have
to go have a look for yourselves.QC/D3, Wolfova 1, tel. Marina Yachting
+386 (0)1 251 10 10, www.bags.si. Open 09:30 - 19:00, Ideally located on Novi Trg in Ljubljanas old town, Marina
Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Yachting brings the fashions of the sea to the city. Using
lightweight materials allowing for maximum comfort,
Betty Barclay the traditions of the sailors are respected at every turn
With a newly opened store on Ciril Metodov Trg, Betty as modern twists are developed creating clothes to be
Barclay continue to provide contemporary clothes for worn for every occasion. Nothing is rushed, and the care
the women of the modern world, with their interna- taken over each garment is obvious to all. The brand is
tionally respected brand adding that extra gravitas constantly evolving, producing fashionable and classy at-
desired. A collection for summer 2014 focuses on el- tire with ease.QC4, Novi Trg 6, tel. +386 (0)1 425 1107,
egance and sophistication, all the while keeping a close www.liliinroza.si. Open 09:00 -19:30, Sat 09:00 - 17:00,
eye on the latest trends. Betty Barclay is for those who Sun 10:00 - 14:00.
76 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Shopping
MAx&CO
MAX&Co. is all about style and glamour: a perfectly
calibrated blend of typically Italian quality and cre-
ativity. Sartorial tradition and state-of-the-art tech-
nology is applied to fashion design, and MAX&Co.s
collections are the fruit of a constantly evolving at-
titude and the desire to experiment and innovate,
which constitutes the pioneering ethos of the brand.
MAX&Co. are distinguished by a fresh, contempo-
rary international flair and purposefully designed
to be reinterpreted according to ones moods and
whims.QD-3, Mikloieva 1, tel. +386 (0)1 241 47
45, www.liliinroza.si. Mon - Fri : 9.00 - 19.30, Sat
9.00 - 15.00 .

PETIT BATEAU
Petit Bateau is a century-old tradition based on the
things that should be a part of everyday life: youthful
playfulness, sincere happiness and endless comfort.
Since 1893 the brand has been an indispensable com-
panion for children and adults for whom quality and
comfort are important.QD-4, Stari Trg 30, tel. +386 (0)5
993 49 89, www.liliinroza.si. Mon - Fri: 9.00 do 19.30,
Saturdays 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

STUdIO 33
Originally located in Slovenias seaside resort town
Portoro, Studio 33 may have moved to the capital,
but it hasnt left behind its Italian-inspired roots,
offering seasonal collections of designer womens
fashion exclusively from Italy. From the unique,
hand-fashioned handbags of Marino Orlandi to
the exquisite footwear of the increasingly popular
Loriblu, the selection of brands and items presented
is carefully chosen and quite literally comes directly
from the catwalks of Milan to the streets of Lju-
bljana, while the large, brightly lit space is staffed
by a team of attentive ladies, who are on hand to
serve as fashion consultants rather than salespeople.
QD-2/3, Mikloieva 16, tel. +386 (0)5 933 6950,
www.studio-33.si. Open 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 -
13:00. Closed Sun.

VIKTOR BARLI
This family-run enterprise has been producing high-
quality handmade leather goods since first opening its
doors on Mestni Trg back in 1954. Nowadays the third
generation of the Barli family specialises in the design
and creation of original handbags and other leather ac-
cessories, combining traditional handmade methods
with modern fashion trends. No two bags are exactly
alike and the selection changes weekly, making this
is the perfect shop for those who take pride in being
unique. A carefully chosen range of imported womens
footwear is also available, as are the award-winning,
animal-friendly Save the Duck line of jackets.QD-4,
Mestni Trg 8, tel. +386 (0)1 251 2908, www.barlic.si.
Open Mon - Fri 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 17:00, Sun
10:00 - 15:00
www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket March - April 2017 77
Shopping
aCCessories
NEW
dEVUR
If you want a souvenir or gift thats characteristically Slove-
nian and yet individually unique, we recommend taking a
look at the items in Devur. Designed and handcrafted by
Dejan Hribar, and drawing on the long tradition of wood-
work in the region, each makes full play of the grain and
colour of the materials used. Visit the boutique in the Old
Town to see the selection of jewellery and accessories, in-
cluding a number of surprises. Made exclusively with local
wood, and many pieces inlaid with silver, gold or pearls,
this an ideal way to take a piece of Slovenia home. If you
have any questions about the items, just ask and youll
learn about the love and passion that go into carving
these creative works.QD-4, Mestni trg 12, tel. +386 (0)
40 414 567. Open Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 -
15:00. Closed Mon.

seCond hand/Vintage
dIVAS VINTAGE PRELOVEd
Second hand clothing never looked so good, and the ever-
changing world of fashion never looked so inviting. Dedi-
cated to providing quality designer and vintage clothing
(and accessories) whilst keeping a close eye on the envi-
ronment, both male and female garments fill up this classy
store. The black and white decor is accentuated by ambi-
ent music, making the shop a pleasant place to browse the
various male and female items of clothing ranging from the
1930s to the 1990s. Slovenian and International designers
and brands are displayed, meaning it has never been easier
(or more affordable) to look fashionable.QC-4, Gospos-
vetska 5, tel. +386 (0)41 641 759, www.divaspreloved.
com. Open 11:00-18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

gifts & souVenirs


Take a little something of Ljubljana home with you or for
your family. Keep an eye out for products carefully made
by local artists and designers often depicting the beauty of
Ljubljana within paintings, crafts, embroidery, ornaments,
photography, clothes and much more.

BABUSHKA BOUTIqUE
If theres a cuter shop in Ljubljana, then we have yet to find
it. Offering a wide selection of items from both Slovene
and foreign designers, if theres a common theme tying
everything together here, its the love that goes into the
handmade products, each of which has the ultimate goal
of making the recipient happy even the name, Babushka
Boutique, brings a smile to our face. From ceramics and
jewellery to notebooks, cookbooks and postcards, each
item is said to have its own story, which the affable, at-
tentive staff will be happy to share with you while youre
browsing the collection.QD-4, Stari Trg 18, tel. +386
(0)59 968 709, www.babushkaboutique.com. Open
10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.
78 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Shopping

10 %
off
The Biggest Discount Voucher
Craft & Art Shop
www.rayher.si

CASTLE ExPERIENCE2GO and tempting selection of fresh pralines that taste as good as
As befitting its location, the Ljubljana Castle shop is choc- they look. There are also traditional Slovenian chocolate bars
full of goodies closely associated with the castle itself, and that come in a variety of unique flavours, including prosciutto,
the many stories that emanate from its history. Whether its and salted chocolate with pumpkin seeds and tarragon. More
the silver jewellery, the many fashion accessories or even than 40 loose teas are on offer, as well as a good range of tea-
the fine array of tasty treats, it is all guaranteed to maintain pots and mugs to enjoy them with. Gifts sets and packages
the lovely memories of Ljubljana Castle for years to come. are available, making it easy to shop for that special someone
Essentially, you are purchasing stories as opposed to prod- while picking up something for yourself. Just look out for the
ucts, memories as opposed to goods, and thats fine by orange sign and squirrel logoQD-4, Mestni Trg 8, tel. +386
us.QGrajska Planota 1, LJubljanski grad, tel. +386 (0)1 (0)59 921 252, www.lachocolate.si. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun
306 42 11, www.ljubljanskigrad.si. Open Jan - Mar and 10:30-17:00, From May 09:00-21:00 Mon-Fri.
Nov 10:00 - 18:00, Apr - May and Oct 09:00 - 20:00, June
- Sept 09:00 - 21:00, Dec 10:00 - 19:00. OLIVIERS&CO
With boutique stores on Ciril Metodov trg and Slovenska cesta,
OKOLAdNICA CUKREK the Oliviers&Co olive oil empire continues to grow. The com-
A charming, family-run business with several shops in the city, pany was founded in France almost 20 years ago, and has fully
the latest by the river at Breg 4. okoladnica Cukrek has been committed to offering the very best of the Mediterranean, in
delighting adults and children for well-over a decade. Among the shape of the finest olive oils, trues, spreads, cosmetics
the many fine examples of chocolate for sale include special and much more, including the most delightful vinegars weve
Ljubljana dragons in souvenir wooden boxes, fruit covered ever come across. Theyve also got one section of the shop
in chocolate and even chocolate flavoured with salt. In ad- dedicated exclusively to products from Slovenia. Exceedingly
dition to the main location on Mestni Trg, you can also find friendly (but not intrusive) shop assistants are on hand to help
Cukrek in the Nebotinik passageway, opposite Hotel Union at all times.QD-3, Ciril Metodov trg 20, tel. +386 (0)1 232
on Mikloieva, in the Mercator Centre ika.Q C-4, Breg 4, 22 92, www.oliviers-co.si. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 -
tel. +386 (0)1 421 04 53 , info@benedict.si , www.cukrcek. 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00, Slovenska 46, tel +386 (0)1 232 22
si. Open 09:00-20:00, Sun 09:00-18:00. 92. Open 09:00-19:00, Sat 09:00-13:00. Closed Sun.

GALERIjA RUSTIKA
Featuring the largest selection of high-quality Slovenian hobby & Crafts
handicraft products in the entire country, Rustika is indeed
equal parts gallery and shop. Perusing the collection with RAYHER HOBBY & ART
the help of a knowledgeable staff member feels a bit like Arts and crafts enthusiasts in need of supplies this
taking a guided tour through all of the many diverse regions is the place for you, or scrap booking travellers and
and cultures found within Slovenias borders. Highlights parents looking for good creative fun for kids its
include traditional beehive panels produced by an award- great for you too. Actually, even for not handy folks
winning local artisan, world famous Idrijan lace, and various like ourselves who just need some occasional help
different seasonal specialties.QD-3, Stritarjeva 9, tel. +386 creating seasonal decorations, a costume for Pust
(0)1 251 17 18/+386 (0)31 459 509, www.galerijarustika.si. (Slovene carnival), or gifts for friends - Rayher is
Nov- Mar 10:00 - 18:00.QD-4, Ljubljanski Grad, tel. +386 the place to go. Its two floors are packed with ev-
(0)1 251 17 18/+386 (0)31 38 32 47, www.galerijarustika. erything from fine art supplies to play dough while
si. Mar 10:00 - 18:00. April 09:00 - 19:00 the helpful staff will ensure you find whatever you
need. QD-3, Mala Ulica 5, tel. +386 (0)1 320 56
LA CHOCOLATE 00, trgovina.ljubljana@rayher.si, www.rayher.si.
If youre in the market for something sweet in the Old Town Open 09:00-19:00, Sat 09:00-13:00. Closed Sun.
then look no further than La Chocolate. This store has a wide
www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket March - April 2017 79
Shopping
Piranske Soline ily reached small shopping centre with a pleasant atmo-
Times have changed since Roman soldiers were paid sphere. At Vi we find a pretty huge Interspar as well as
in salt but this mineral still ranks as one of lifes es- over 30 shops, covering fashion, sports, books and more.
sentials. Here at Piranske Soline the canvas bags that The expected cafes can also be found, but our definite
fill the windows and the shelves are full of the stuff. highlight is Ljubljana institution Hood Burger. Electrical car
There is salt for cooking, including the famous Piran charging is also available.QJamova cesta 105, tel. +386
salt, hand-scraped from coastal deposits, along with (0)1 470 05 91/+386 (0)5 923 73 04, www.center-vic.si.
salted chocolates and a wide range of salt-related ac- Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun and holidays
cessories such as salt mills and containers. And if all 09:00 - 15:00 (Interspar open from 08:00).
the walking youve done has made you a little weary,
you can pick up some pick-me-ups in the form of bath
salts and scrubs from the Lepa Vida natural beauty Slovenian Designers
range.QD4, Mestni Trg 8, tel. +386 (0)1 425 01 Trgovina Ika
90, www.soline.si. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - Ika puts the creativity of local Slovene artists, designers
15:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. and innovators at the forefront of its shelves, exhibiting
a wonderful selection of products showcasing modern
Slovenika Slovene design. You can pick up great souvenirs here as
Looking for interesting souvenirs that are actually made a lot of the products represent the beauty of Ljubljana in
in Slovenia and unique handcrafted gifts, then look no artistic forms, or if youre looking for a unique garment,
further than Slovenika. Located on Gornji trg in old decorative product or piece of art, youve come to the
town Ljubljana, this souvenir and gift store is packed right place.QD3, Ciril-Metodov Trg 13, tel. +386 (0)1
with a great range of quality locally made products, 232 17 43, www.trgovinaika.si. Open 10:00 - 19:30, Sat
traditional and modern alike. Here, youll find some- 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.
thing for anyone. There are cute things for kids, de-
signer home wares and furniture, as well as beautiful
Idrian lace, elegant wooden jewellery and innovative Home & Design
kickstarter products from up and coming designers, Filipov Dvorec
plus heaps more. And if that isnt enough, they also sell Located smack in the heart of Ljubljana just steps from Tromo-
delicious Slovenian edible treats and boutique spirits. stovje, Filipov Dvorec is where locals with fine taste head for
QD4, Gornji trg 4, tel. +386 (0)30 20 10 50, www. top quality cookware, kitchen appliances and designer dining
slovenika.eu. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. ware. They stock world renowned brands including Villeroy &
Closed Sun. JA Boch porcelain, Christofle silver cutlery and WMF kitchenware
to name just a few of the premium items available. There is
also a select range of boutique teas, Slovenian wines and
Shopping Centres spirits, always good souvenirs though really everything in the
Ljubljana may boast more shopping centres per shop is gorgeous and would make a great memento or gift -
capita than any other city in Europe, with even more its our go to place for wedding presents.QD3, Cankarjevo
scheduled to open over the next several years. Most nabrezje 1, tel. +386 (0)1 2418 396, www.dom.si. Open
are located on the citys outskirts near the ring road, 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. PJA
including the largest, BTC and City Park, in the north-
east, Rudnik in the south and Mercator Centre in the
northwest. Food & Drink
Hub Trgovina
Center Vi Hub is the only store of its kind in Slovenia, offering a
Just 10 minutes from the city centre we find this eas- colourful range of American snacks, sodas and candies

80 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


Shopping
that just cant be found elsewhere in town. In addition to
a rotating selection of items certain staples are always in
stock, including Pop Tarts, Dr Pepper, Canada Dry, A&W
Root Beer, and Nerds, as well as some Californian wines,
barbecue sauces, pancake mixes and more. On our visit we
picked up some tins of Altoid and Tootsie Rolls, and will be
back whenever we have a sweet-toothed friend to shop
for.QD-2, Mikloieva 15, tel. +386 (0)59 923 254. Open
10:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Wine, sPirits & beer


dEKANTER
Dekanter may not be the largest wine shop in town in fact
we're pretty sure it's the smallest but as we once heard
someone say: it's not the size that counts, it's how you use it.
And Anja and Janez, the friendly couple who run the place,
definitely make the most of the space, stocking an excellent
selection of wine carefully chosen from Slovenia's best small
producers, including Sveti Martin, Bati, Edi Simi, Sosoli,
Klinec and Mansus. In addition to the wine, there's an assort-
ment of goat, sheep and cow cheeses, as well as high quality
schnapps. A store that sells time, not just wine, and has open
tastings each Thursday at 20:00.QD-4, Gornji Trg 10, tel. +386
(0)68 675 445, dekanter.wix.com/wineboutiquedekanter.
Open 16:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.

j&B VINO
Fine wine, olive oil, trues and ham, to our mind J&B
Vino offers some of the best things in life. Opposite the
Grand Hotel Union, this is a great place to stop by before WINE STORE TORIjA
a dinner party or when you need a gift for the gourmet Slovenian wine is one of the countrys best kept secrets.
in your life. A choice selection of local and foreign wines Boutique producers rarely export so unless you are a seri-
is offered, along with whiskies, gins and rums. There are ous wine nerd youre unlikely to have tried zelen, pinela or
also olive oils from Istria, both plain and infused with herbs even orange wine - as in the colour, not the fruit. And no,
and spices. Fresh trues are available by order, and true its not the same as ros. While in Ljubljana do yourself a
oils, cheeses and other preparations are always in stock. favour and head along to torija just a short walk along
A range of prosciutto and hams are also sold. Be sure to Trubarjeva from Preeren Square, where youll find an ex-
ask Bianca about the gift options and occasional wine tast- cellent range of top quality local wines and knowledge-
ings.QD-3, Mikloieva cesta 14, tel. +338 (0)51 416 991, able staff at hand to help.QTrubarjeva 17, tel. +386 40
www.jb-vino.si/. Open 10:00 - 19:30, Sat 10:00 - 14:30. 690 096, www.vinotekastorija.com/. Open 11:00 - 21:00,
Closed Sun. Sat 10:00 - 13:00 & 17:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. JA

SINGLE BLENd WHISKEY SHOP E V REdU, PRIMO


We have a confession to make: we really dont like over- New beer shops in Ljubljana arent opening quite as fast as
paying for things. In fact some (ie many) people we know new craft breweries in Slovenia are, but they dont seem to
might even disparagingly refer to us as being cheap. This be far behind. Well admit that fact we live just a few min-
was the reason it took us so long to visit Ljubljanas first utes away on foot might be an important factor, but since
dedicated whiskey shop on Rimska Cesta, as from our it opened e v Redu, Primo (or Okay, Primo in English) on
experience specialty shops tend to charge a premium. Trubarjeva is definitely the one weve spent the most time
However, much to our delight (and our livers chagrin), at. About half the selection is from local craft brewers, and
when we finally did drop by one day we found that the the friendly proprietor will gladly explain the differences
prices here are actually lower (in some cases significantly and give recommendations, while he manages double
so) than anywhere else in town, and the selection cant duty by also deejaying from his collection of vinyls. And
be beat. You can also sample some of the open bottles, while you cant legally drink inside, theres a fridge full of
and get very in depth explanations of all the handcrafted cold ones in the back and some places to sit just outside
peaty goodness lining the shelves.QRimska 13, tel. +386 the door. Na zdravje!QTrubarjeva 47, tel. +386 40 251
41 523 192, www.singleblend.si. Open 13:00 - 20:00, Sat 024, www.pr-primozu.si. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00
09:00 - 13:00. - 14:00, 17:00 - 21:00.
www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket March - April 2017 81
Where to Stay

Hotel Slon is now a more attractive accommodation option than ever after undergoing extensive renovations and being situated on a newly
pedestrianised stretch of Slovenska Cesta, photo by iga Koritnik

Not surprisingly for a popular tourist and business fet affair of the highest quality; you should turn up early if
destination, Ljubljana provides a wide range of you want to have time to taste everything. Add in a small
accommodation options to suit all tastes and budgets. fitness centre and sauna, free Wi-Fi, home entertainment
As youd expect, prices creep up the closer you get to centres in every room, tremendous service and a loca-
the centre, but the cost of a night here still remains tion in the very heart of the city, and you have one hell
relatively low in comparison with western Europe. of a package.QC3, Slovenska 34, tel. +386 (0)1 470 11
The citys popularity does mean however that places 00, fax +386 (0)1 251 71 64, www.hotelslon.com. Open
do book up for the summer. Ensuring you get yourself 00:00 - 24:00. 168 rooms (singles 75 - 134, doubles
the room you want in the location you want and 110-160, triples 165-180, suites 201-335). PJH
for the price you want during the summer is highly AR6UIGKDXW
recommended.
G Design Hotel
The exceedingly modern G Design may be one of Ljublja-
Hotels Over 170 nas newest hotels, but it also boasts over two hundred
Cubo years of tradition, as the still functioning (and beautifully
This relatively new boutique hotel has a great location restored) Gostilna Gorjanc restaurant has been serving
right in the heart of the city opposite beautiful Kongresni travellers at the same location since the end of the 18th
Trg and Zvezda Park. In its couple short years Cubo has al- century. The large well-furnished rooms feature soft light-
ready won a host of awards for excellence, including our ing and super comfortable beds, with panoramic views of
own IYP Best Business Hotel competition. Its 26 rooms
are modern, elegant islands of tranquility, with gorgeous
views of the castle and old town, and a friendly profession- Vila Veselova
al staff that is always eager to make your stay as comfort- Vila Veselova really makes the most of its location in
able and memorable as possible. The street-level restau- a 19th century mansion house. It helps that upon ar-
rant serves equally praiseworthy cuisine, and is a popular rival you are welcomed by some of the most charming
spot for business lunches.QC4, Slovenska 15, tel. +386 working people weve had the pleasure of meeting.
(0)1 425 60 00, fax +386 (0)1 425 60 20, www.hotelcubo. We dont know how long weve been clamouring for
com. 26 rooms . PJALKW bunk bed shelves and private electricity sockets, but
Vila Veselova provide them in their excellent special-
made bunks. Relaxing balconies, a delightful garden,
Hotels 100-170 plenty of free parking and free breakfast are also in-
Best Western Premier Hotel Slon cluded, but it is the atmosphere and comfort that will
On the site of the oldest hotel in Ljubljana, the Slon is make it almost impossible to leave. QB-3, Veselova
the best value stay in the city. For a very reasonable price 14, tel.. +386 (0)59 92 67 21, desk@v-v.si, www.v-v.
you get a ton of luxury, from a pillow menu (yes, really) to si. 8 rooms. J ARLGW
sheets of only the purest cotton. The breakfast is a buf-
82 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Where to Stay
Ljubljana castle in the distance. Well-equipped conference
facilities and meeting rooms are available, and for a real
treat you can dine in bed at the unique G Super Club. The
hotel is conveniently situated just off the Brezovica exit on
the motorway, at the edge of the forest just a short drive
south of the city centre.QH5, Traka 330, tel. +386 (0)1
200 91 00, fax +386 (0)1 200 91 30, www.gdesignhotel.
si. 22 rooms. HAULKW

Galleria (previously Antiq)


What better way to experience old town Ljubljana than
staying in a four-hundred year old home turned four star
boutique hotel, located directly on Gornji trg (square) - the
heart of the old town. And actually the experience has just
got even better, thanks to the friendly family now running
Hotel Galleria (previously Antiq - the new name is fitting
with interesting local art on display) who have rejuvenat-
ed the place. There are rooms for travellers of all budgets,
modern luxury combines with old world charms, a private
garden below the castle, 200 year old wooden ceilings
and original frescoes are mighty impressive though its
heritage listing does mean theres no lift, travellers who
cannot climb a flight of stairs or two should book else-
where.QGornji trg 3, tel. +386 (0)1 421 35 60, www.
hotelgalleria.eu/. PJHABXW

Hostels
AdHoc Hostel
Despite the name, budget conscious travellers can rest as-
sured that every aspect of this newly opened hostel has
been thoroughly planned and executed - including all the
small touches that backpackers are sure to appreciate, such
as ample common space, plenty of showers and shelves
for the top bunks. However, its the unbeatable location
in the heart of the old town just below the castle and only
steps from all the major sites (and popular nightlife venues)
that makes AdHoc a winner. A total of 72-beds are spread
across several floors and a combination of dorms and pri-
vate rooms.QCankarjevo Nabreje 27, tel. +386 (0)51 268
288, www.adhoc-hostel.com. 8-bed dorm, private qua-
druple, private double. PJGW

Apartments
Kollmann Apartments
These beautifully renovated luxury apartments and
rooms right in the centre of the old town are truly a
sight to behold. The highlight of the smaller unit is the
king-sized waterbed located in a loft bedroom separated
from the living room below, while the larger apartment
is absolutely huge, with two bedrooms, a full bathtub
and a washing machine. Both apartments and one of the
rooms have fully-equipped kitchenettes, while the larger
of the apartments and both rooms also have great views
of the Ljubljanica and old town below. All units feature
brand new LCD TVs and free internet,QD4, Cankarjevo
Nabreje 27, tel. +386 (0)51 268 288, www.ljubljana-
apartments.eu. PT J A 6 G X W
www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket March - April 2017 83
Gourmet Slovenia

An elegant setting and refined cuisine make Hotel Cubo Restaurant a great choice for special occasion or business lunch (Photo: David Ralita)

Long before there was an official Slow Food Movement perennially in the running for the title of the finest din-
(which was founded in Italy in 1986), food has played a ing in the country, Kritof can be found in the village of
central role in Slovenian social life. From long lunches Predoslje just next to Brdo Castle north of Kranj. True
out of the office on most working days to day-long to its small town roots, the restaurant combines the
Sunday meals and extravagant traditional holiday best of rural ambience and charm with modern Slove-
dinners with extended families, the average Slovene nian cuisine, and the family that runs the place is said
spends a significant portion of their lives eating. to have been the catering business for more than 700
and while Slovenia may not yet be an international years, so you can rest assured that youre in good hands.
household name as a culinary destination, in recent The fresh seasonal menu is certified organic, and there
years its reputation has been growing in leaps and are also many vegetarian and vegan dishes to choose
bounds amongst those in the know. This has been from, all of which can be found in English (and with
thanks in part to nation-wide initiatives such as the prices) on their website.QPredoslje 22, 4000 Kranj,
twice-yearly restaurant Week (tedenrestavracij.si) tel. +386 (0)4 234 10 30, +386 (0)41 358 786, kristof@
and the promotion of traditional Slovenian cuisine siol.net, www.gostilnakristof.si. Open 12:00-24:00,
with the Gostilna Slovenija brand (gostilnaslovenija. Sun 12:00-17:00.
si), as well as local campaigns like Taste Ljubljana, but
mostly its because Slovenia has always had great Vila Podvin
food and its impossible to keep something like that Opened in 2013, Vila Podvin is set in a beautifully restored
a secret forever. 14th-century castle some 2km east of Radovljica, and just
a short drive north of Ljubljana. There are seven comfort-
able guests rooms and suites available, but the real high-
Gorenjska light here is in the kitchen, which is run by one of Slove-
Gostilna Kritof nias top chefs, Uro tefelin. Renowned for transforming
One of the dozen or so Slovene restaurants that are traditional Slovene cuisine using modern culinary tech-
84 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Gourmet Slovenia
niques, tefelin prepares his own unique dishes with local
ingredients and ample creativity. Already a popular venue Matija Bizjak has been a
for weddings, the Podvin estate also hosts other private chef for 15 years and follow-
events, offers horseback riding and cooking workshops, ing stints at top restaurants
and even has a selection of souvenirs representing Slo- around Slovenia, in Ireland
venias rich cultural heritage. QMonje 1, Radovljica, tel. and Switzerland he is now in
+386 (0)41 747 636, info@vilapodvin.si, www.vilapod- charge of the restaurant at the
vin.si. Open 12:00-22:00, Sun 12:00-17:00. Closed Mon. boutique designer Hotel Cubo.

Tell us how you become


LJUBLJANA a chef...did you have any
Hotel Cubo Restaurant mentors along the way?
For fine modern dining right in the heart of the city cen- Professionally, I am a chef 15 years now, but I fell in love
tre, look no further than the ground floor of Hotel Cubo. with this profession in the 6th grade of primary school.
Just steps away from some of Ljubljanas top cultural My grandmother gave me the best start/intro to cook-
venues (Cankarjev Dom, Drama Theatre and the Slove- ing, when I was 12 she managed to get me interested
nian Philharmonic) Cubo is a popular choice for a pre- in her daily task in the home kitchen. Even nowadays I
or post-performance dinner. The tranquil interior and still call her if anything is not totally clear when it comes
professional service also makes it a common destination to grandmas cooking.
for important business lunches, while gourmet cuisine
is creatively prepared with the freshest ingredients, and What do you enjoy most about being a chef?
complimented by an exquisite wine list. Free kerbside va- Being a head chef, the most enjoyable thing of course
let service and shuttles for groups of four or more guests is the creativity, where I and my team are working
are added bonuses. QC-4, Slovenska 15, tel. +386 (0)1 hard to implement all the ideas and goals that we
425 60 30, www.hotelcubo.com. Open 12:00-16:00, set together. The other enjoyable thing is definitely
Closed Sat, Sun. leading the kitchen team which is of course very chal-
lenging.
Gostilna As
One of Slovenias first truly world class restaurants when You are now in charge at Cubo, whats new? What
it opened its doors in the centre of Ljubljana some two are your plans for the restaurant?
decades ago, in the years since it hasnt missed a beat, We have only just started our culinary journey at Cubo
still serving some of the very best Mediterranean- Hotel, though already we have changed the whole
inspired cuisine in the city. For us the true standouts philosophy and quality of the food and presentation
on the menu are the fantastic seafood specialities (both as well.
starters and main courses), but you also cant go wrong The next step for this year is to introduce an all day Ala
with the steaks, grilled to order on an open-fire. When carte menu that I and another of my team members,
in doubt, you can rely on the friendly and professional who recently joined the team, Dina Avdic Sabic, also a
staff for recommendations, as well as guidance with the member of the Slovenian national cooking team, are
equally superb wine list. A must for lovers of extrava- developing. We will be mainly using Slovenian and sea-
gant dining!QC3, opova 5a (Knafljev Prehod), tel. sonal produce, but with the influence of the modern
+386 (0)1 425 88 22, www.gostilnaas.si. Open 12:00 international techniques.
- 01:00.
Apart from Cubo which are the Slovene restaurants
Slon 1552 to watch?
Taking its name from the year one of Ljubljana's most Each restaurant has their own story, but in my opinion,
prestigious accommodation options, the Slon Hotel, I really think, that each of us are doing our part, so that
originally opened its doors to guests, this sleek, mod- one day we will be a culinary destination.
ern restaurant is anything but old-fashioned. Soft light-
ing, elegant furnishings and an abundance of green Slovene cuisine in five words...
plants make dining here a truly relaxing experience. Rustic, full-flavoured, pork, sausage, winter food
Chef Joe Erjavec's minimalist menu is a contempo-
rary take on traditional Slovenian dishes, with a hint Three dishes every visitor to Slovenia should try...
of Mediterranean influence thrown into the mix as Carniola sausage (Kranjska klobasa), Cheese dumplings
well, and generally adheres to the philosophy of 'less (sirovi truklji), Idrijski likrofi (a type of stuffed pasta)
is more'. If you're in the mood for indulging, we rec-
ommend choosing one of the set four-course tasting Where do you head for lunch out of town?
menus. QC-3, Nazorjeva 5, tel. +386 (0)1 470 11 81, I love to visit very ordinary family ran restaurants, such
sales@hotelslon.com, www.hotelslon.com. Open as Fritolin in Portoro.
11:00 - 23:00.
www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket March - April 2017 85
Gourmet Slovenia
should expect to pay upwards of 50 per person for several
Notranjska courses, and significantly more if you wish to indulge with
Proteus Restaurant something off of the equally impressive wine list. For those
After a day spent exploring Postojnas famous cave who can afford it, Debeluh cant be recommended highly
and other sights, treat yourself to a first-class meal at enough. QTrg Izgnancev 7, Breice, tel. +386 (0)7 496 10
the newly renovated Proteus. Set in a old house that 70. Open 12:00-22:00. Closed Sun.
is typical for the region, the restaurant combines the
traditional and modern with homemade local cuisine
served in an elegant interior. Tables are separated by Primorska
curtains of fine white string, which are meant to re- Gostilna Pri Lojzetu
semble the geological formations found inside the Dvorec Zemono, or Zemono Manor, is an exquisite 17th-
cave, and the walls are decorated with works of ac- century Palladian building in the village of Zemono, be-
claimed Slovene painter Leo Vilhar. QTitov Trg 1, tel. tween Vipava and Ajdovscina. As well as the splendid ar-
+386 (0)8 161 0300, +386 (0)40 457 483, info@post- chitecture and frescoes the site offers truly stunning views
ojnska-jama.eu, www.postojnska-jama.eu. Open of the vineyards and peach trees in valley, and also attracts
08:00 - 23:00. many visitors because it is home to Gostilna Pri Lojzetu.
With its roots in a family business that opened at the end
of the 19th century, the restaurant has been at its current
Posavje location for more than ten years. Chef Tomaz Kavcic is a
Oterija Debeluh member of the founding family, and is known for his take
Widely regarded as one of the best restaurants in the region, on Slow Food. There are a la carte, set meal and tasting
if not the entire country, thanks to head chef Jure Tomis in- menu options, with many innovative approaches to tradi-
novative approaches to classic dishes, Debeluh is one of the tional dishes. QDvorec Zemono, Vipava, tel. +386 (0)5
only restaurants in Slovenia to have been awarded a Jeunes 368 70 07, zemono@zemono.si, www.zemono.si.
Restaurateurs dEurope rating - often referred to as the little
Michelin. Excellence doesnt come cheap however, and you Hia Franko
Roundly regarded by gourmands, amateur foodies, tour-
ists and locals alike as one of best restaurants in the
country, its not uncommon for diners to make the trip
to Slovenia for the express purpose of eating here - es-
pecially for neighbouring Italians, who can appreciate
top quality cuisine like few others. Run by a husband and
wife team, Ana is in charge of the kitchen, while Valters
knowledge of Slovenian wines and cheeses is unrivalled.
Set in a rustic villa outside the town of Kobarid in the far
west of the country, a meal here will not soon be forgot-
ten. Rooms are also available. QStaro Selo 1, 5222 Ko-
barid, tel. +386 (0)5 389 41 20, info@hisafranko.com,
www.hisafranko.com.

TAJERSKA
Vila Herberstein
Located on a hill just above Velenje's city centre, the im-
maculate Vila Herberstein is nevertheless in a space and
time completely separated from the town only a few hun-
dred metres below. Dating back to the second half of the
19th century, the previous owners included several noble
families - including the mysterious Maria Anne Herber-
stein from whom it now takes its name - and the villa was
restored to its former glory by its current owner Gorenje
following Slovenian independence. The separate dining
rooms provide an unsurpassed atmosphere, transporting
guests back in time, while the food and service are every
bit as fitting. It's well-worth stopping by here on any visit
to Velenje, even if it's just for a cup of coffee (and perhaps
a quick tour of the premises and grounds). QKopalika 1,
Velenje, tel. +386 (0)3 896 1400, info@vilaherberstein.si,
Dine in style at Restaurant Proteus. vilaherberstein.si. Open 12:00-22:00. Closed Sun.
86 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Nanas Apartments
These dozen or so apartments are all centrally located in Lju-
bljanas old town, with many just a few steps from the citys
main sights like Dragon Bridge and Preeren Square. All are
newly furnished and come in a variety of sizes, styles and
layouts, from bright and colourful studios to more classic af-
fairs with parquet floors and exposed wooden beams. De-
tailed descriptions of each and lots of photos can be found
on Nanas website, so its best to have a look and choose
what suites your needs and taste.QVarious Locations, tel.
+386 (0)51 387 111, www.nanasrentals.com.

MartaStudio
These three self-contained studios and one large 106m
apartment are reasonably priced alternatives to booking
a hotel. All fitted with modern facilities, including kitch-
enettes, the family-run accommodation is just a short
15-minute walk from the city centre, or an even shorter
bus ride from the stop just a few metres away (lines 1 and
6). A supermarket, restaurants and banks are all nearby,
and airport pick-up can be arranged for little more than
the cost of a bus. The entrance is in the same building as
the shop Mavrica, look for the house in the courtyard with
the red faade. QJ-4, Traka 24, tel. v +386 (0)5 9020
452, +386 (0)41 874 400, info@martastudio.eu, www.
martastudio.eu. TA6LG

AirBnB
We dont know how its legal, since the vast majority of
the rooms, apartments and other private accommodation
listed on the AirBnB website presumably operate without
having received permits or having jumped through the
notoriously opaque hoops of Slovene bureaucracy (not
to mention the small matter of taxes). However, setting
all that aside for the time being, its safe to assume that
AirBnB isnt going away for the foreseeable future, so for
those visitors comfortable staying in a strangers home
and participating in the so-called sharing (ie grey) econ-

Highlights of
omy, AirBnB offers excellent value accommodation with
several hundred full apartments and another hundred or
so private rooms currently available in Ljubljana, most of
which are conveniently located within the old town cen-
tre. Note: despite how overtly critical we may sound, if we

Slovenia
were coming to Ljubljana and didnt know anyone to stay
with, we would almost certainly opt for AirBnB, just dont
tell anyone we said so.

Located nearly in the geographical centre


of a tiny country, virtually all of Slovenias
sights are an easy day-trip from the capital
Postojna
Karst Museum
The Karst itself is a unique phenomenon, and one that
finally has its own focused museum exhibition. Through
dynamic modern presentations visitors here can explore
all aspects of the stoned landscape, from its creation in
prehistoric seas to modern day life on the rough terrain.
A large part of the exhibition is dedicated to the regions
spectacular caves and their fascinating history. Theres
also treasure in these halls, as silver and gold artifacts from
Predjama Castle can be observed. QKolodvorska 3, tel.
+386 (0)5 721 10 90, +386 (0)5 721 10 92, info@notranjs-
ki-muzej.si, www.notranjski-muzej.si. May-Sept: open
11:00-18:00. Oct-Apr open 09:00-15:00, 11:00-16:00 Sat-
Sun. Admission 3, students/pensioners 2.

TIC Postojna
Not your average tourist information centre. A blink and
youll miss it affair, the Postojna tourist information centre
is located in a modern-looking building on the side of the
road as you come into town, and is an excellent starting
point for more information regarding Postojna and the re-
gion. Wi-Fi is free, theres an iPad of additional information
and the usual mass of brochures. QTel. +386 (0)5 64 17
99 72, tic.postojna.info@gmail.com, zelenikras.si. Apr,
May, Oct, Fri - Sun 10:00 - 18:00, Jun & Sep 09:00 - 18:00,
Jul & Aug 09:00 - 21:00, Nov & Dec Fri - Sun 10:00 - 15:00.
Stop off for a bite at Proteus Restaurant in Postojna after a long day Closed Jan - Mar
exploring the sights (p86)

With less than 10,000 inhabitants Postojna is barely one Restaurants


of the 20 largest towns in Slovenia, but arguably none AVIO PUB
are more well-known throughout that world (including Found just off the runway at Postojnas small recreational air-
the capital Ljubljana) than this relatively nondescript port, theres a large garden out back where diners can watch
settlement in the southwest of the country that wasnt the planes take off and land - many of which are taking visitors
even offi cially recognise until 1909. The reason of on panoramic fl ights. Despite the name, this place is a full-fl
course it not so much the town itself, but the amazing edged pizzeria, steakhouse and wine bar, with pizzas coming
network of karst caves that lie just below its surface. crispy and hot from a wood-fi red oven, steaks grilled to per-
First opened to the public in 1819, the world-famous fection and a wide selection of Slovene wine from the cellar.
Postojna Cave is said to have attracted more than 35 From Tuesday to Friday there are multi-course lunch specials
million visitors over the past two centuries, with one starting from only 6. Of course the cosy wood-covered inte-
of its fi rst being Austro-Hungarian Emperor Francis rior is very pub-like in appearance, and there are four types
I the year before it opened. If this were not enough, of draught beer on hand for those who are thirsty.QRakitnik
Postojna is also blessed with another popular sight 1a, Prestranek, tel. +386 (0)5 720 13 10, info@aviopub.si,
in its immediate vicinity, the magnifi cent Predjama www. aviopub.si. Open 10:00-23:00, Sat-Sun and holidays
Castle located some 11km to the northwest of the town 11:00-23:00. Closed Mon. TLBS
centre. Built in the 13th century and partially situated
under enormous natural stone arch, its not only a fi ne MAGIC GARDEN IN HOTEL JAMA
castle in its own right, but also sits atop another tourist Drawing inspiration from the most beautiful and untouched
cave and is also associated with several fascinating areas of the cave, this new restaurant within the park, and
legends. part of Hotel Jama, aims to make your trip to Postojna even
While the vast majority of visitors come to Postojna more magical. The chefs work only with local produce, grown
just to see one or both of its star attractions, with in the karst environment, treating each ingredient with the
three proper hotels and many other guesthouses and respect it deserves. The seasonal a la carte menu offers a
private accommodation options located in and around cutting-edge dining experience and an opportunity for culi-
the town, it makes a good base for exploring parts of nary excess, while staying true to local traditions. Theres a hall
central Slovenia as well as the Karst region that extends that seats 200 for weddings and other events, along with two
towards the Adriatic Sea and Italy - Trieste actually terraces and enchanting views of the River Pivka. QJamska
being closer to Postojna than Ljubljana (35km and Cesta 30, tel. +386 (0)5 700 01 03, info@postojnska-
54km away respectively). jama.eu, www.postojnska-jama.eu.
88 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Postojna Cave Park
POSTOJNA CAVE
The largest cave in the karst region and most visited show
cave in all of Europe, words on a page can hardly do jus-
tice to the majesty of Postojna. So far, more than 24 kilo-
metres of galleries have been found, of which 5km are
open to the public. All the same, a visit here still takes up
much of a morning or an afternoon, as you make your way
through the most spectacular parts of the cave, at first by
a dinky little narrow-gauge train, and then on foot. There
are no stairs or difficult climbs along the path to or inside
the cave, so visitors with limited mobility should not have
any difficulties. Highlights of the cave include the enormous
stalacites and stalagmites, and the quite sensational concert
hall, which can (and does) hold 10,000 people. The caves are
also home to olms (or white salamanders), a blind amphib-
ian endemic to the subterranean waters of caves of this part
of Europe. This year has been even more special than usual,
as one of the olms has laid a clutch of eggs, a rare event
which happens just once a decade, so if you get lucky on All aboard the Postojna train!
your visit you may even catch a glimpse of some baby drag-
ons, as they have been dubbed by the international press. and first mentioned in the historical record in the year
QOpen every day, all year. March: 10.00, 12.00, 15.00. 1274. Perched under a natural archway 123m up a sheer
April: 10.00, 11.00, 12.00, 14.00, 15.00, 16.00 cliff face and surrounded by a thick stone wall, through-
out the centuries the castle has gained a well-deserved
reputation for being virtually impregnable. Nowadays
the castle is open to the public and serves as a museum.
It has been completely restored to its original grandeur,
and among other sites visitors can see the residential
quarters, the chapel and of course the dungeon. It is also
possible to see the legendary cave below the castle, al-
though some climbing and a minimal level of fitness, es-
pecially for scaling the narrow 37m Erazems Passage, is
strongly encouraged if not required. QOpen every day,
all year. March: 10:00-16:00. April: 10.00-17.00

Buses run from Ljubljana to Postojna every half hour from


05:30 until 23:00 (some of them stop in front of Postojna
Cave).
For any more information regarding Postojna Cave Park,
Postojna Cave has stalactites and stalagmites as far as the eye can see.
please use the following contacts; Jamska 30, Postojna,
tel +386 (0)5 700 01 00, info@postojnska-jama.eu, www.
postojnska-jama.eu.

See dragons in Postojna Cave acquarium

PREDJAMA CASTLE
Located some 10km north of Postojna is one of Europes
finest castles. Predjama Castle (or Predjamski grad,
Hhlenburg Lueg and Castel Lueghi in Slovene, German
and Italian respectively), was built in a Gothic style by the Predjama Castle is one of Slovenias most incredible sights.
Patriarch of Aquileia sometime during the 13th century (all photos Postojnska jama d.d.)

www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket March - April 2017 89


Bohinj
villages in eastern Gorenjska, is absolutely breathtaking.
Come early in the morning out of season, just before
the sun has risen over the adjacent peaks to experience
its awe. Mist shrouds the banks of this still and flat alpine
wonder. The pure quiet of this location really brings na-
ture to life once more. Only birdsong emanates from the
surrounding Eden, the splash of one of Bohinjs yellow-
bellied fish, or the crash of Savica waterfall in the middle
distance. Perhaps the only other detectable sound is the
flap of the wings of large birds in flight over this crystal
clear lake. By Bohinj you can be at one with yourself, and
peace is unavoidable.

Savica Waterfall (Slap Savica)


Your time spent in Bohinj would not be complete with-
out a day trip to one of Slovenias greatest waterfalls.
To reach the waterfall its a roughly one hour walk up a
thickly forested slope. The waterfall itself drops a tower-
ing 78m into a large water sink, which is located at an
altitude of 500m. An inspirational sight, it has often been
written about by well-known Slovenian poets and writ-
ers. A small entrance fee is required at the entrance to the
site.QU7, Bohinjsko jezero, tel. +386 (0)4 574 60 10,
info@bohinj-info.com, www.bohinj-info.com. Admis-
sion 1.0 - 2.50.

Around Bohinj
Lake Bohinj. Photo: Matev Lenari Vogel View Point
The Vogel Ski Centre is one of our favourite places to
The alpine valley of Bohinj is a truly idyllic landscape, hit the slopes mainly because of the incredible pan-
steep mountains rise above quaint villages and lush oramic views of the Julian Alps and Lake Bohinj, but
pastures, and at the end of the valley, in the Triglav you dont need to wait for the snow to check out the
National Park, is the spectacular Lake Bohinj - the views. In fact, without needing to worry about snow-
largest permanent lake in Slovenia. The glacial lakes boarders cutting you off and with the mountainsides
fresh crystal clear waters are popular with swimmers a bloom with wild flowers the views are possibly even
in summer, whilst its just one of the many natural more spectacular. There are also countless opportuni-
attractions to see and then there are also countless ties for hiking and mountain biking including at a newly
outdoor activities on offer. As well as the rich nature opened bike park up on Vogel, making it a great year
heritage, there are also plenty of opportunities to get round destination.QUkanc 6, tel. +386 (0)4 5729 712,
in touch with local history and culture - perhaps drop info@vogel.si, www.vogel.si. During winter season:
by traditional cheese maker, visit some of the museums 08:00 -18: 00 (daily, every half an hour). During off
and cute churches dotted throughout the valley and a season 08:00-18:00 (daily, every half an hour). Dur-
visit to a gostilna to try local specialties is a must. Despite ing summer season 07:30 -19:00 (daily, every half an
being just 30 minutes drive west of the tourist Mecca hour). Return tickets 15 adults, 10 children (family
Bled, Bohinj feels more isolated and rural, delightfully discounts available).
less developed - it is quiet (nightlife is basically non-
existent), restaurants and accommodation tend to be Ski Bus
more down to earth and people here are attentive Every year Vogel Ski Centre joins the Ski Bus service,
and helpful. Bohinj is a great place for a day trip from which is free of charge for the guests of participating
Bled and an excellent year round destination in its own accommodation in Bohinj. The Ski Bus runs from Bo-
right, ski at one of several resorts in the vicinity, enjoy hinjska Bistrica through the villages of the upper and
an active holiday with the family or have a romantic lower Bohinj valley in the morning, and vice versa in the
getaway in this beautiful setting. afternoon. The bus takes you directly to the lower Vogel
cable car station. Use of the service is only possible with a
chip card that guests receive from their accommodation
Essential provider. The timetable can be found online. QBohin-
Lake Bohinj (Bohinjsko Jezero) jska Bistrica, www.vogel.si/winter/prices-and-info/
Lake Bohinj, the jewel at the centre of this scattering of ski-bus.
90 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Kot v pravljici.
Like a Fairy Tale.

Obmoje v Triglavskem
narodnem parku
Located in Triglav
National Park

LJUBLJANA - 80 km | BLED - 28 km
Ski Center & Amazing view point
www.vogel.si | www.bohinj.si
Prekmurje
patrol many villages, adding extra weight to the unique
feel of Prekmurje. The region on other side of the Mura
River truly is a different experience. No bridge crossed the
river until 1924. Whilst connections have improved today,
Prekmurje still provides something different, something
worth savouring.

VULKANIJA ADVENTURE PARK


Goriko castle happens to sit on a particularly fascinating spot,
the site of the last volcanic eruption in Slovenia! This momen-
tous occasion occurred some three million years ago, and the
The mysterious land across the Mura river
the area is now home to an adventure and educational park,
Even the quickest look at a map betrays a lot about where Oli the Mole will help visitors unearth the ways of volca-
Prekmurje. If ever there was a region of Slovenia that noes, as well as taking a journey to its centre. Originally opened
could be described as being other, Prekmurje is it. A in 2013, the facilities have recently been renovated and ex-
thousand years of Hungarian rule will do that. The history panded, with even more activities to participate in, such as
of Prekmurje and its people is intertwined with that of volcanic games, state-ofthe- art 3D films that let visitors travel
Hungary, and various times of extreme Magyarization with Oli through a lava tube to the depths of the Earths crust
as well as isolation from mainstream Slovene culture has and back again, and a wonderful geological museum. Great
resulted in a local dialect that is virtually unintelligible to fun for the whole family, as well as individuals and school
most Slovenes. This isolation has also ensured the survival groups. Located in the region of Prekmurje in the northeast
of many old local traditions. All of this comes together corner of Slovenia, the park can easily be visited on a day trip
to create one of the most undeniably unique regions excursion from Ljubljana, but with a wealth of sites and activi-
in the entire country. The gateway to the Pannonian ties in the surrounding area and some of countrys best food
plain, Prekmurje is divided between flatlands covered in and friendliest people, its well-worth considering a longer
cornfields and the more hilly Goricko area in the north. stay.QGrad 174, Grad, +386 (0)2 553 10 00, info@vulkanija.
Formerly an important centre for the potters trade, today si, www.vulkanija.si. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Nov-Mar 10:00 -
it is a land of thermal waters, leading sleepy towns and 16:00. Closed Mondays. Adults 10, students 8, children
villages to transform into modern spa resorts. White storks 6-15 7, families 25. Children under 5 free admission.

92 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


Prekmurje
GEOLOGICAL MUSEUM
Located in the former tannery building, visitors can learn
more about the geological history of the Goriko region at the
wellpresented and informative Geological Museum. Theres a
wideranging collection of volcanic rocks, crystals, minerals and
the like from both Slovenia and abroad, and further interactive
content teaches visitors about the water cycle, mineral foun-
tains and fossils. In Olis Kitchen, Oli the mole and his assistant
chefs demonstrate the development of life with a playful cook-
ery exhibition, while the attic houses a small but beautiful ex-
hibition space for art works connected to geology and Goriko.

Moravske Toplice
Prior to 1983, this small municipality consisting of 28
setlements and some six thousand inhabitants was
known simply as Moravci. However, the decision was
made to add the toplice, or spa in Slovene, in order
to help promote the town as a major spa destination.
In fact, wellness and health tourism began here some
two decades prior to the name change, when thermal
mineral springs were first discovered. Known for their
so-called black mineral water, they attract visitors
from both Slovenia and abroad for their natural healing Get younger in Moravske Toplice
properties. In addition to two separate spa centres
(Terme 3000 and Terme Vivat), the municipality also and its surroundings!
boasts a handful of restaurants offering excellent local
cuisine, some great wine tasting opportunities and In the heart of idyllic Prekmurje you will find Moravske Toplice, a
even a fine golf course. well-known tourist destination in the northeastern part of Slove-
nia, being very famous for the babbling healing waters in Terme
TIC MORAVSKE TOPLICE 3000 spa and Terme Vivat spa.
Get the most out of your time in Moravske Toplice by visiting
the local tourist office, located in a modern building at the Paradise for hikers and bikers
western edge of town. The small but friendly information Nearly 100 of hiking routes, 11 themed hiking routes (1,8 20 km)
centre (like Prekmurje itself ) is packed quite literally floor Over 10 organised hikes each year
to ceiling with informational brochures, book, maps and About 250 km of marked routes, 11 themed cycling routes (6 42 km)
various souvenirs, from the typical t-shirts and postcards
to special handmade gifts from the region. Avid cyclists Events:
should make a point to ask for information about the net- Hiking down the Sladka pot path, 12. 3., Ratkovci
work of ten well-marked cycling paths that crisscross the Easter Fair: 13. 4. 15. 4., Mayday Fair: 27. 4. 1. 5., M. Toplice
municipality, while those who would rather in more he- Setting of maypole and celebration of midsummers Day, 30. 4.,
donistic pleasures can ask for recommendations about the M. Toplice
best local restaurants for sampling the traditional cuisine of
Prekmurje. QKranjeva 3, +386 (0)2 538 15 20, +386 (0)40
829 870, www.moravske-toplice.com, info@moravske-
toplice.com. Open 08:00-20:00 (08:00-18:00 in winter),
Sat 08:00-15:00, Sun and holidays 08:00-14:00.

MORAVSKE TOPLICE GOLF COURSE


Situated in the far northeast of the country - at the edge of the
vast Pannonian Plain in Slovenias Prekmurje region - this fine For more information about the tourist offer:
eighteen-hole course is a welcome addition to the vast Terme TIC Moravske Toplice, Kranjeva 3, 9226 Moravske Toplice
3000 resort. When building the course, special attention was I: www.moravske-toplice.com
paid to the preservation of the original flora and fauna of the E: info@moravske-toplice.com
area, which has led to some quite uniquely-shaped (and chal- FB: facebook.com/TIC.MoravskeToplice
lenging) greens, fairways and sand traps. The highlight of the INST: www.instagram.com/moravsketoplice/
course is the nearly 600 metre long 9th hole.QKranjeva 12, T: +386 (0)2 538 15 20 M: +386 (0)40 829 870
Moravske Toplice, +386 (0)2 512 22 00, +386 (0)2 548 16 07,
www.terme3000.si, info@terme3000.si
www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket March - April 2017 93
1

3
Novo Mesto
Nestled in a bend of the Krka river, Novo Mesto is the
cultural and economic capital of Slovenias south-
eastern Dolenjska region. its name may mean new
town but at roughly 700 years old the town isnt
exactly a recent development. Founded in 1365 by
the Habsburg Arch- duke Rudolf iV the city was a
prominent trading centre in the Middle Ages and later
it became an industrial hub which continues today
with some of the countrys largest companies based in
the area. Thankfully the factories were built away from
the old town which is has been well preserved and is
really very pretty - charming old houses stretch along
the banks of the river, cobble stoned streets wend
through town and the citys oldest building, the 15th Wellness & design
Hotel Balnea
century Church of St Nicholas rests above all on the
highest spot in town. The heart of the town is Glavni
Trg, formerly a merchant district its now a promenade
lined with shops, cafes and restaurants with the
landmark Town Hall at its centre. its not just the built
environment which is attractive, across the river from
town is the tranquil Ragov Log forest - accessed via a
cute wooden bridge and with well-maintained paths -
its a great spot for a stroll. Qvisitnovomesto.si

OTOEC CASTLE
Photogenically located on an island in the middle of
the river Krka , Otoec Castle dates back to at least 1252,
when it first found its way into the anals of history as a
property of the Counts of Vinja Gora. Over the next 700
years ownership passed through a mlange of distin-
guished hands, including kings, noble families and even
the Catholic Church. The castle has seen many architec-
tural changes over the years, with minor alterations go-
ing on well into the 19th century. However, it can gener-
ally be said to have a Baroque style. After being largely
destroyed by the Partisans during the Second World War,
it has since been rebuilt and now serves as a five-star
luxury hotel owned and operated by the good people
at Terme Krka. QOtoec, tel. +386 (0)7 384 89 00,
booking@terme-krka.si, www.grad-otocec.com.

TERME dOLENjSKE TOPLICE


Located about 13km south west of Novo Mesto on the Top 7
edge of the expansive Koevje forests, Dolenjske Toplice wellne
is a destination offering everything one needs to relax.
hotel bss
Trivag y
Dolenjske Toplices warm (36-38 C) calcium-rich waters
drawn from depths of 1000m are said to have healing o
properties and we can attest to always feeling better af-
ter a soak. Fancier hotels in town like the historic Kristal
and Vital hotels have their own thermal baths whilst most
visitors head to the ultra-modern Balnea Wellness Centre
spa with indoor and outdoor thermal pools as well as a +386 8 20 50 310
staggering array of baths and saunas. As for further in- booking@terme-krka.si
dulgence there is no shortage of fine restaurants or luxu- www.terme-krka.com
rious massage centres in town. The pristine forests which
border the town are also worth exploring - a relaxing en-
deavour so long as you dont run into a bear. Zdraviliki
Trg 7, Dolenjske Toplice, tel. +386 (0)7 39 19 400,
booking@terme-krka.si, www.terme-krka.si.
www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket March - April 2017 95
Directory
Embassies & Consulates Diplomatic Corporate
Australia
QK/L-3, elezna 14, tel. +386 (0)1 234 8675, fax +386 Services
(0)1 234 8676, austral.cons.sloven@siol.net. Open
Mon, Thu 09:00-12:00, Wed 14:00-17:00, Closed Tue, Diplomatic Corpo-
Fri, Sat, Sun. rate Services Slove-
Austria nia Operated by Stoja Real
QB-3, Preernova 23, tel. +386 (0)1479 07 00, fax +386 Estate, as the name sug-
(0)1252 17 17, laibach-ob@bmeia.gv.at, www.bmeia. gests Diplomatic Corporate
gv.at/laibach. Open , Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu 8:30 - 12:00, Services is a web portal and
Fri 8:30 - 11:00. Closed Sat, Sun. associated service agency
Bosnia & Herzegovina that aims to provide for-
QK-2, Kolarjeva 26, tel. +386 (0)1234 32 50, fax +386 eigners (primarily from the
(0)1234 32 61, ambihlju@siol.net diplomatic and business community) living and travelling
Canada in Ljubljana and elsewhere in Slovenia with all the relevant
QL-3, Linhartova cesta 49A, tel. +386 (0)1252 44 44, fax information they could possibly need - from hotel and
+386 (0)1252 33 33, canada.consul.ljubljana@siol.net. restaurant recommendations to real estate services and
Open 08:00-12:00. Closed Tue, Thu, Sat, Sun. medical care. Their dedicated multi-lingual team is only a
China phone call or email away, while their website also provides
QL-3, Koblarjeva 3, tel. +386 (0)1420 28 55, fax +386 a wealth of information.QDolenjska 244c, tel. +386 (0)1
(0)1282 21 99, kitajsko.veleposlanistvo@siol.net. Open 2800 860, info@dcs.si, www.dcs.si. www.dcs.si.
08:00 - 11:00. Closed Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat, Sun.
Croatia
Q L-4, Gruberjevo Nabreje 6, tel. +386 (0)1425 62 20, Italy
fax +386 (0)1425 81 06, vrhslo@mvep.hr, www.si.mvp. QB-4, Snenika 8, tel. +386 (0)1 426 21 94, fax +386
hr. Open 09:00-13:00, Closed Sat, Sun. (0)1 425 33 02, archivio.lubiana@esteri.it. Open 09:00 -
France 11:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
QC-5, Barjanska 1, tel. +386 (0)1479 04 00, fax +386 Macedonia
(0)1425 04 10, contact@ambafrance-si.org, www. QJ-4, Rona Dolina, Cesta IV/2, tel. +386 (0)1 421 00 21,
ambafrance-si.org. Open 08:30 - 12:30. Closed Sat, Sun. fax +386 (0)1 421 00 23, makamb@siol.net. Open 10:00-
Germany 13:00, Closed Sat, Sun.
QB-3, Preernova 27, tel. +386 (0)1 479 03 00, fax Montenegro
+386 (0)1 425 08 99, germanembassy-slovenia@siol. QF-2, Njegoeva 14, tel. +386 (0)1439 53 64, fax +386
net, www.laibach.diplo.de. Open , Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu (0)1439 53 60, embamon-lj@t-2.net. Open 10:00-13:00.
09:00 - 12:00, Fri 09:00 - 11:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Closed Sat, Sun.
New Zealand
REAL ESTATE QH-1, Verovkova 57, tel. +386 (0)1580 30 55, fax +386
(0)1568 10 86.
Russia
QA-2, Tomieva 9, tel. +386 (0)1425 68 75, fax +386 (0)1425
68 78, ambrus.slo@siol.net, www.veleposlanistvorusije.
mid.ru/. Open 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Serbia
QC-2, Slomkova 1, tel. +386 (0)1438 01 10, fax +386
(0)1434 26 88, amba.srbije.lju@siol.net, www.ambasadas-
rbije.si. Open 09:00-13:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
The most popular real estate agency in Ljubljana for for- SPAIN
eigners, diplomats and local buisness people, Stoja has QTrnovski pristan 24, tel.+386(0)1 420 23 30, fax.
been operating in Slovenia since 1996, and specialises in +386(0)1 420 23 33, emba.espa.eslovenia@siol.net
both residential and commercial rental properties in the UK
Slovene capital. They have a huge selection of houses, QB-3, Trg Republike 3/ 4, tel. +386 (0)1 200 39 10, fax +386
apartments and business premises, and will happily as- (0)1 425 01 74, info@british-embassy.si, ukinslovenia.fco.
sist customers with all aspects of the rental process, as gov.uk. Open 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
well as buying and selling property around the country. USA
QDolenjska 242c, tel. +386 (0)1 28 00 860/+386 (0)41 QB-3, Preernova 31, tel. +386 (0)1200 55 00, fax +386
652 141, fax +386 (0) 1 28 00 861, info@stoja-trade.si, (0)1200 55 55, usembassyljubljana@state.gov, slovenia.
www.rent-a-realestate.com. usembassy.gov. There is no opening hours, but you
have to announce.
96 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
STOJA TRADE d.o.o.,
Dolenjska cesta 242C, SI-1000 Ljubljana
T: +386 1 2800 860, F: +386 1 2800 861
E: info@stoja-trade.si

APARTMENTS I HOUSES I BUSINESS PREMISES I LAND


FOR RENT I FOR SALE I WE RENT I WE BUY
Stoja Real Estate Agency is the most popular
real estate agency in Ljubljana for foreign-
ers, diplomats and local buisness people.
Stoja has been operating in Slovenia since
1996, and specialises in both residential and
commercial rental properties in the Slovene
capital. We have a huge selection of hous-
es, apartments and business premises. Our
agents will happily assist customers with all
aspects of the rental process, as well as buy-
ing and selling property around the country.

www.stoja-trade.si I www.rent-a-realestate.com IMarchwww.dcs.si


www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket - April 2017 97
Chapter 19
www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket March - April 2017 101
102 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Dubrovnik and
Dubrovnik andNeretva
NeretvaCounty
CountyTourist Board
Tourist Board
www.visitdubrovnik.hr
www.visitdubrovnik.hr
Deela okusov is located in the vicinity of one of
Ljubljanas well known cultural sight Krianke, only
10 minute walk from city centre. Our friendly staff will
serve you with delicious homemade food, prepared on
open grill fire. Our offer includes over 40 different types
of beer and you will be also able to choose from a nice
selection of traditional delicious Slovenian wines.

dezelaokusov.si | Eipprova 11, Ljubljana | +386 1 283 92 88

Vous aimerez peut-être aussi