Chapter V Automatic processing tools for sewing

parameter analysis

Index

1. INTRODUCTION.................................................................................................................. 2
1.1. DEFINITIONS ........................................................................................................................ 2
1.2. SUMMARY OF PARAMETERS, PROCESSING TECHNIQUES AND COMPUTATIONS FOR SEWING
EFFICIENCY ASSESSMENT.................................................................................................................... 2
1.2.1. Needle penetration .............................................................................................. 3
1.2.2. Stitch Formation..................................................................................................... 6
1.2.3. Feeding system...................................................................................................... 8
1.3. LIMIT TESTING....................................................................................................................... 9
2. IMPLEMENTATION ............................................................................................................ 11
2.1. DATA STRUCTURES THE SEWING EFFICIENCY TEST.................................................................. 11
2.1.1. Machine setup and material characterization .............................................. 11
2.1.2. Stitch formation subtest configuration............................................................. 12
2.1.3. Feeding efficiency subtest configuration........................................................ 13
2.1.4. Needle penetration subtest configuration ..................................................... 13
2.2. DATA STRUCTURES MODIFICATIONS TO THE EXISTING AST DATA STRUCTURES ......................... 14
2.3. USER-INTERFACE STRUCTURE ................................................................................................ 15
2.4. PRODUCING TESTS ............................................................................................................. 17
2.4.1. Sewing efficiency test main panel ................................................................... 17
2.4.2. Sewing efficiency Test Configuration............................................................... 19
2.4.3. Machine setup and material properties.......................................................... 20
2.4.4. Stitch formation subtest configuration............................................................. 21
2.4.5. Feeding efficiency subtest configuration........................................................ 22
2.4.6. Needle penetration subtest configuration ..................................................... 22
2.5. DISPLAY OF TEST RESULTS ..................................................................................................... 23
2.5.1. Stitch Formation Subtest Results ........................................................................ 24
2.5.2. Feeding Efficiency Subtest Results.................................................................... 28
2.5.3. Needle Penetration Subtest Results.................................................................. 31
3. REFERENCES ..................................................................................................................... 34

V-1
1. Introduction

The experimental work carried out led to the definition of a set of analysis tools
that can individually deliver results describing the efficiency of the sewing process
in the three subsystems considered. Through the integration of all these tools into
one single set of higher-level software modules, all relevant parameters describing
sewing efficiency and sewability can be automatically computed and
immediately displayed. Moreover, this software tool will be the basis for
prototyping of monitoring and control systems.
This chapter describes the development of these software modules.

1.1. Definitions
Although some terms such as sewability and sewing efficiency have been
used extensively throughout this text, it is necessary to describe these concepts, in
order to clarify their meaning.
In the specific context of this work and in the approach followed by the research
team, these terms are defined as follows.

> Sewing Efficiency Assessment: Evaluation of all relevant factors that have
influence on seam quality;
> Sewability Testing: Evaluation of materials, regarding aspects that can assure or
impair sewing efficiency;
> Sewing Parameter Monitoring: On-line monitoring of sewing parameters in order
to detect loss of sewing efficiency;
> Sewing Parameter Control: Actuation on sewing machine parameters in order to
assure sewing efficiency.

Sewing efficiency translates the effect of all intervenient factors, such as machine
settings, accessories, materials and threads.
Sewability is a component of sewing efficiency assessment. It evaluates the ability
of a material to be sewn without causing quality problems when the remaining
factors are optimised (machine, accessories, threads).
Sewing parameter monitoring and control are applications of sewing efficiency
analysis. Some sewing variables may be controlled (for instance force on the
presser-foot), whilst other may only be monitored (needle penetration).

1.2. Summary of parameters, processing techniques and computations for

sewing efficiency assessment
This section presents a summary of all parameters, processing techniques and
calculations built into the higher-level sewing efficiency testing modules. Most of
the techniques herein presented have already been defined in previous sections;
they are reproduced here for completeness.

V-2
1.2.1. Needle penetration

a) Pre-processing
Pre-processing of needle penetration signals is achieved with spectral filtering
using a 0-1-3 stopband. Zero Correction is presented as an option.

b) Features
Features are computed on subsets extracted from the signal based on the
phase intervals configured by the user.

Defining
S: Signal subset
si: Sample i of signal subset
ms: Total number of samples in signal subset
fs: Sample frequency
Pk: Peak (maximum) of signal subset
Vl: Valley (minimum) of signal subset
Ang: Angle of occurrence of peak or Valley
Av: Average of signal subset
En: Energy of signal subset
Pw: Power of signal subset

> Peak

Pk = Max {S } (1)

> Valley

Vl = Min {S } (2)

> Angle of occurrence of peaks/valleys

> Average

ms 1
1
Av =
ms

i =0
si (3)

> Energy1

ms 1
En =
i =0
si 2 t (4)

1 Energy and power are here used in the sense of a measurement based on a
squared variable, independent of the units of that variable. They are only related
to physical energy and power by a dimensioned scaling constant.

V-3
 > Power

ms 1
1
Pw =
T

i =0
si 2 t (5)

being

1
t = (6)
fs

ms
T= (7)
fs

c) Feature ratios

Fm
Rmn = (8)
Fn

where

Fm: Feature Value in phase m

Rmn: Ratio between features in phases m and n

d) Statistics computed over the features and feature ratios

> Average

N
1
xs =
N
x(i)
i =1 (9)

with
x(i): Sample i of population sample
N: Size of population sample- degrees of freedom

> Standard deviation

(x(i) x )
N
2

s = i =1

N 1 (10)

The standard deviation s is computed for the sample (N-1 degrees of

freedom)

> Confidence Interval of the average

V-4
 Using the one-tailed Student t distribution, for a confidence level of p,
the population average, xpop , lies in the interval:

s s
xs t p ( ) x pop xs + t p ( )
1 1
2 N 2 N (11)

with

= N 1
degrees of freedom:

> Confidence interval of the standard deviation

The confidence interval is obtained using the 2 distribution. Standard
deviation lies in the interval

(x(i) x ) (x(i) x )
N 2 N 2

i =1
pop i =1
(12)
2 p ( ) 2 p ( )
1
2 2

for a confidence level of p.

> Correlation
Linear Correlation between two data sets is computed as

Cov( X , Y )
CORR = (13)
X Y
where
Cov: Covariance
X,Y: Data sets
X Standard deviation of data set X
Y Standard deviation of data set Y

> Coefficient of Variation

CV (%) = 100
xs (14)

V-5
1.2.2. Stitch Formation

a) Features
For stitch formation, only peaks and their angles of occurrence have been
considered. They are computed as described in 1.2.1.

b) Parallel values

VP( A, B) = Tension Value of Thread B at peak of Thread A (15)

c) Stitcheck parameters

P 2 N + P 2UL
Stitcheck (Tension) =
P 2 LL (16)

CN + CUL
Stitcheck (Consumption) =
CLL (17)

where
P2N: Average of needle thread tension peak in phase 2
P2UL: Average of upper lopper thread tension peak in phase 2
P2LL: Average of lower lopper thread tension peak in phase 2
CN: Consumption of needle thread
CUL: Consumption of upper looper thread
CLL: Consumption of lower looper thread

The two additional Stitcheck parameters are obtained by rotating equations

(16) and (17), as described in chapter IV, section 3.

d) Average tension waveform

This calculation represents the average waveform of a thread tension stitch
cycle.
Its principle is depicted Figure V- 1. The average is obtained by splitting the
acquired waveform into stitch cycles (periods) and averaging each sample. An
intermediate time-scale correction allows the compensation of minor speed
differences between stitch cycles.

Correct time-scale Calculate average on

Split signals into
Signal Acquisition to compensate f or a sample-to-sample
stitch cycles
speed dif ferences basis

Figure V- 1: Calculation of average tension waveform

V-6
 e) Feature ratios
Computed for peaks, as described in 1.2.1

f) Statistics
As described in 1.2.1

g) Measured thread consumption

Thread consumption is displayed as total consumption and consumption per
stitch.
As thread consumption is measured for the whole seam in the PIC-based thread
tension measurement device, it has to be divided by the number of stitches that
have been acquired. With the PCI-6601 based device, it is possible to measure
consumption per stitch directly.

h) Theoretical prediction of thread consumption

Figure V- 2 defines the relevant dimensions for the 504 stitch1. Theoretical thread
consumption is calculated using the following equations:

Figure V- 2: Dimensions of 504 stitch. Needle thre

where

l: Stitch length
w: Seam width
t: Material thickness

1 The figure shows the typical 504 stitch that does not exactly match the stitch
geometry actually produced by the machine. For this reason, the stitch
consumption formulas are not the same as the ones normally presented in
literature.

V-7
 > Needle thread consumption (NT)

NT = 2t + l (18)

> Lower Looper Thread Consumption (LL)

1
LL = t + 2l + 2 w 2 + l 2
9 (19)

> Upper Looper Thread Consumption (UL)

UL = t + l + 2 w 2 + l 2 (20)

1.2.3. Feeding system

a) Amplitude of force signals

The amplitude of force signals is computed on a stitch-to-stitch basis as

A = Max( Si ) Min( Si ) (21)

where
i: Index of stitch (period of signal)
Si: Signals subset corresponding to period i of force signal

b) Force signal spectrum

Harmonics extracted from force signal spectrum.

c) Harmonic distortion of force signal with reference to the nth

component, Dn

A An 2
2
i
i =1
Dn = (22)
An

where
Ai: Amplitude of the ith harmonic
An: Amplitude of the component n

The harmonic distortion is computed with reference to the 1st(fundamental),2nd

and 3rd harmonic.

V-8
 d) Features Presser-foot displacement
In the analysis of feeding efficiency, presser-foot displacement is divided in two
phases. The peak displacement in the first and second phases, and the valley in
the second phase, are computed as described in 1.2.1.

e) Displacement signal spectrum

Harmonics extracted from displacement signal spectrum.

f) Harmonic distortion of displacement signal

For the displacement signal, harmonic distortion is computed with reference to
the fundamental component, using the expression presented in eq.(22).

g) Average presser-foot movement

This function provides an average waveform of presser-foot displacement,
computed as described for thread tension waveforms in 1.2.1

h) Difference to presser-foot reference cycle

To provide a measure of deviation of the average movement from the
reference cycle, the signals are subtracted and the difference is displayed.

1.3. Limit Testing

The ultimate objective of the sewing efficiency tester and/or monitoring system is
to compare the measured values with pre-defined limits that mark out
compliance with quality standards.
In this sense, limit testing for most of the computed sewing variables have been
implemented. These limits are speed-variable, that is, the boundary values for
quality compliance change depending on sewing speed.
Limits are introduced in a tabular form exemplified by Table V- 1.

Table V- 1: Example of limit table for one sewing variable

Speed Lower limit Upper limit
1000 200 300
2000 250 400
3000 260 450
4000 260 500

This table results in the following graphical representation of the limits:

V-9
 Figure V- 3: Limits for sewing variables

As can be seen, the limits defined in the table result in a variable acceptance
band for the values. For speeds not defined in the table, limits will be constant
and equal to those at the nearest speed. If only one speed is defined, the upper
and lower limits will be constant over the whole speed range.

V-10
2. Implementation

2.1. Data structures the sewing efficiency test

The large amount of data involved in the processing of complete sewing
efficiency tests requires a careful design of data structures that can hold all
configuration parameters and results. These structures were designed to
accommodate future modifications and to allow the use of the software on other
machines with minor adaptations.
The results of the tests may be stored in the data structures already used by the
AST software. The test includes the results and all the parameters used to obtain
them. For this purpose a higher-level data structure, the Sewing Efficiency Test,
was created, including the following items:

Table V- 2: Data structure for sewing efficiency test

Sewing Efficiency Test
Name
Colour
Tests to be performed
Results
Machine setup and
material properties
Feeding efficiency subtest
configuration
Stitch formation subtest
configuration
Needle penetration subtest
configuration
Test reference
Colour to be used to graphically display the test
results
Flags indicating which subtests will be performed
Arrays containing the results of the processed
test, using the AST signal arrays and signal
properties data structures
Miscellaneous data related to machine set-up
and material in use
Parameters for feeding efficiency processing
Parameters for stitch formation processing
Parameters for needle penetration processing

The next sections summarise the contents of the latter four structures. These
provide all the information required for the computations previously described.

2.1.1. Machine setup and material characterization

This structure comprises all the data related to the setup of the machine and the
relevant properties of the material.

Table V- 3: Data structure for machine setup and material characterization

Machine setup and material characterization
Stitch Stitch type Stitch type indication
Stitch length Stitch length setting

V-11
 Machine setup and material characterization
Stitch width Width of the stitch produced by the machine
Presser- Reference cycle One period of presser-foot displacement
foot measured at low speed, with material
trajectory
Lower position Lowest position of the presser-foot when
with material material is present, measured on the reference
cycle
Upper position Highest position of the presser-foot when
with material material is present, measured on the reference
cycle
Lower position Lowest position of the presser-foot measured
without material on a cycle acquired at low speed, without
material
Upper position Highest position of the presser-foot measured
without material on a cycle acquired at low speed, without
material
Static Needle thread Static needle thread tension measured
thread static tension
tensions
Lower looper Static lower looper thread tension measured
static tension
Upper looper Static upper looper thread tension measured
static tension

2.1.2. Stitch formation subtest configuration

In this data structure, all relevant information concerning the processing of the
stitch formation subtest is maintained.

Table V- 4: Data structure for stitch formation subtest configuration

Stitch formation subtest configuration
Phase Needle thread Phases for feature extraction on the needle
definitions stitch cycle thread tension signals
phases
Lower looper Phases for feature extraction on the lower
thread stitch looper thread tension signals
cycle phases
Upper looper Phases for feature extraction on the upper
thread stitch looper thread tension signals
cycle phases
Limit Limits for needle Limits may be applied on the following values:
tables thread variables
Stitcheck value
Limits for needle
Peaks
thread variables
Angles of occurrence of peaks
Limits for needle

V-12
 Stitch formation subtest configuration
thread variables
Peak ratios
Thread consumptions (per stitch
absolute values or percentage of total
consumption)

The limit values for thread consumption are defined taking the theoretical
consumption as a reference. It is also possible to define the limit as a maximum
percentage of the theoretical value.

2.1.3. Feeding efficiency subtest configuration

The data structure for the feeding subtest configuration is defined in the following
table:

Table V- 5: Data structure for feeding system subtest configuration

Stitch formation subtest configuration
Phase Presser-foot Phases for feature extraction on the presser-
definitions displacement foot displacement signals
cycle phases
Limit Limits for presser- Limits may be applied on the following values:
tables foot displacement
Harmonic distortion relative to
variables
fundamental component
Peaks and valley of signal (relative to
reference cycle)
Angles of occurrence of peaks and
valleys
Difference of average displacement
signal to reference cycle
Limits for presser- Limits may be applied on the following values:
foot force
Amplitude
variables
Harmonic distortion relative to
fundamental component
Harmonic distortion relative to second
harmonic
Harmonic distortion relative to third
harmonic

2.1.4. Needle penetration subtest configuration

This data structure determines how needle-bar force signals are processed and
the results tested.

V-13
 Table V- 6: Data structure for needle penetration subtest configuration
Stitch formation subtest configuration
Phase Needle Phases for feature extraction on the needle
definition penetration cycle penetration signals
phases
Limit Limits for needle Limits may be applied on the following values:
tables penetration
Peaks
variables
Power
Energy
Average
Angles of occurrence of peaks
Ratios of all of the preceding features
Average of all of the preceding
features and ratios
Standard deviation of all of the
preceding features and ratios
Coefficient of variation of all of the
preceding features and ratios
Correlation of all of the preceding
features and ratios. Correlation is
computed between two sets of
features obtained in different
penetration phases or between two
different ratios.

In the needle penetration subtest all possible computations are performed and
may be tested against limits. This allows enough flexibility to configure the needle
penetration test according to the results obtained in the experiments.

2.2. Data structures Modifications to the existing AST data structures

Each of the signals acquired undergoes specific processing techniques. This
means that the software needs to be able to separate the signals in order to
compute the test automatically. To accomplish this, a new element has been
added to the analogue channel configuration cluster. This element indicates
what kind of sewing parameter is being measured on the analogue input
channels.

Table V- 7: Modification to the analogue channel configuration structure

Parameter added to analogue channel configuration structure
Type of sewing Indicates what kind of sewing parameter is being
parameter measured on the analogue channel. The following
possibilities are available

V-14
 Parameter added to analogue channel configuration structure
a. Force on presser-foot
b. Presser-foot displacement
c. Force on needle bar
d. Needle thread tension
e. Lower looper thread tension
f. Upper looper thread tension
g. Synch signal (1/rot)
h. Undefined

The same modification has also been made on the signal properties cluster. At
the time of acquisition, the signal properties cluster receives this element from the
channel configuration. In this way, the signals contain this information, allowing
the separation and adequate processing by the sewing efficiency test modules.

2.3. User-interface structure

The chart of Figure V- 4 shows the general structure of the user interface for the
created sewing efficiency test modules.

V-15
 Sewing efficiency
test main panel

Sewing
Test
efficiency test
Computation Needle penetration Feeding system Stitch formation
configuration
W indow subtest results subtest results subtest results
panel

M achine setup and Needle penetration Feeding system Stitch formation

material subtest subtest subtest
characterisation configuration configuration configuration

Presser-foot Static thread

reference cycle tension
acquisition measurement

Figure V- 4: Structure of the sewing efficiency test modules user interface

V-16
2.4. Producing Tests

2.4.1. Sewing efficiency test main panel

Figure V- 5 shows the sewing efficiency test main panel:

Figure V- 5: Sewing efficiency test main panel

This panel is the starting point for all calculations and display of results. A listbox
shows the tests currently held in memory. These may have been computed as a
new test or loaded from a file.
Pressing the Test Properties button, the properties of the currently selected test is
displayed. With the delete buttons, it is possible to remove tests from memory.
At the right side, a colour indicator shows the colour of the selected test. If more
than one test is selected, the indicator is greyed out.
The main menu provides the options to compute and display sewing efficiency
tests.
To compute a new test, load a test file or save the current tests to a file, the
Tests submenu is used. (Figure V- 6)

Figure V- 6: Tests submenu

V-17
 In the Results submenu (Figure V- 7) the user may access the results of the three
sewing efficiency subtests.

Figure V- 7: Results submenu

A further option enables the user to display a dialog box allowing the copy of
partial results (Figure V- 8). These are copied as standard AST data sets to the
ASTs signal register. These may then be accessed for normal display or processing
with the ASTs own tools or exported to other programs.

Figure V- 8: Result copy dialog box

In this dialog box, the user selects the test(s) from which partial results are
extracted (upper listbox). The middle listbox enables the selection of the desired
data sets. By pressing the Copy button these data sets are copied to the ASTs
signal register, displayed in the lower listbox.
The Configuration submenu enables the user to display the selected test
properties in the same way as the Test Properties button.
As a template for a future report-generation function, the Reports submenu has
been included. It is also possible to display the context-help window implemented
throughout the ASTs user interface with the Help submenu.

V-18
2.4.2. Sewing efficiency Test Configuration
When a new test is to be computed, the sewing efficiency test configuration
panel is displayed (Figure V- 9).

Figure V- 9: Sewing Efficiency Test Configuration Panel

In this panel, all properties for the sewing efficiency test are adjusted by the user.
By default, the properties are set to those of the test selected in the main panels
test selection listbox. If no tests are present or none is selected, the properties will
be set to the ones used in the last computed test.
The user chooses a name and colour for the test, and selects the signals that are
to be processed. If several acquisitions (seams) are present, the software, by
default, concatenates the results for similar signals into a unique array. This is the
common situation, in which the user performs several acquisitions (seams) for the
same sewing conditions (set-up, adjustment, speed) and joins the results into a
single test. It is however possible to separate the results by checking the
Separate Results by Acquisition checkbox. In this case, the program generates
a result for each similar signal present in the selection1.
At the bottom of this window, four buttons are available to access the machine
setup/material properties and the three subtest configuration panels. These
panels will be described in the next sections.

1Similar signals are signals that represent the same sewing parameter, for instance
needle thread tension signals, presser-foot displacement signals, etc.

V-19
 A checkbox besides each of the three subtest buttons allows the user to select a
specific subtest for processing. If the box is not checked, the subtest will not be
performed.
By accepting the configuration with a click on the OK button, the test is
processed. A small dialog box showing the status of the process is displayed
(Figure V- 10)

Figure V- 10: Status window for test processing

2.4.3. Machine setup and material properties

The following screenshot shows the configuration of machine setup and material
properties:

Figure V- 11: Machine setup and material properties configuration dialog box

The dialog box allows the configuration of the parameters listed in Table V- 3,
related to the stitch (upper section), the presser-foot trajectory (middle section)

V-20
 and the static thread tensions (lower section). An additional text box is available
to insert comments or annotations.
The presser-foot trajectories and positions are measured by the presser-foot
reference cycle acquisition function. This function can be accessed by a button
on this dialog box. Another button is provided to access the static thread tension
measurement function.

2.4.4. Stitch formation subtest configuration

The stitch formation subtest configuration is performed in a dialog box depicted in
the following figure:

Figure V- 12: Stitch formation subtest configuration

This dialog box comprises the parameters listed in Table V- 4. In the upper section,
the user configures the phase intervals for feature extraction. For each of the
three threads a set of phase intervals is defined. To switch between the three
threads, three dialog buttons are provided. Zero correction is presented as an
option.
The correct definition of the phase angles is indicated by a green and a red LED-
type indicator near to the phase interval control. The only limitation to phase
angles is that they must not touch the boundaries of a stitch cycle that are
defined as

LowerBoundary = Initial Angle

UpperBoundary = Initial Angle + 360

A graph is supplied as an aid for phase definition. It displays the signals

corresponding to the selected thread (among those selected in the listbox at the

V-21
 left) and shows the current definition of the phase intervals. Two buttons are
provided to browse through the signals in steps corresponding to a stitch cycle.
In the lower section, the limit tables for each of the parameters that can be
monitored are filled in. The user switches between the parameters by selecting
them in the listbox and a table for the selected parameter is displayed. Two
additional columns allow the user to record regulation values used to obtain the
limits for the parameter (ex: current values for an active actuator).
A text box for annotations or comments is present at the bottom of the dialog
box.

2.4.5. Feeding efficiency subtest configuration

Figure V- 13 shows the feeding efficiency subtest configuration panel.

Figure V- 13: Feeding efficiency subtest configuration

The feeding test properties are very similar to those presented for the stitch
formation test. The feeding subtest needs the definition of one set of phase angles
for the presser-foot displacement signal. The limit tables refer to the specific test
parameters of the feeding system.

2.4.6. Needle penetration subtest configuration

The configuration of the needle penetration subtest, shown in Figure V- 14, is
analogous to the remaining subtests configurations.
In the specific case of needle-bar force signals, the definition of phase angles is
sometimes easier on the filtered than on the original signals. For this reason the
Generate Filtered Signals button is provided, which causes the selected needle-
bar force signals to be filtered and the result displayed in the graph.

V-22
 Figure V- 14: Needle penetration subtest configuration

2.5. Display of test results

After a test has been processed, the outcome can be displayed with the result
panels. Three result panels were developed to display the analysis of the three
subsystems previously described.
Comparison with pre-defined limits for the parameters is done by the result panel
itself. When a test is displayed, the specific limits for the parameters are
computed, based on sewing speed and the limit table introduced by the user.
This makes it possible to adjust the limit settings without reprocessing the test.
Due to the large amount of data to display, the result panels are divided in
sections on a single scrollable window. For quick access to a specific section,
menu options with associated shortcut keys have been set up.
In the next sections, a short description of the result panels is given. The example
shows the result of two tests with one seam (acquisition) each.

V-23
2.5.1. Stitch Formation Subtest Results

a) Section 1: Tension adjustment (Stitcheck parameters)

Figure V- 15: Stitch Formation Test, Section 1 - Tension Adjustment (Stitcheck)

The first section of the stitch formation test shows the Stitcheck parameter. As
described earlier, this parameter is composed of two values plotted on an x-y
graph. Each test is represented with a unique colour and point style, and each
point represents one seam (one acquisition).
The limits for the Stitcheck parameter result graphically in a rectangle and are
plotted with dashed lines. Limits may be different from test to test and may vary
with sewing speed, depending on the limit tables introduced.
When applicable, graphs have a LED-type indicator on the top right corner
showing the compliance to the defined limits. If no limits were defined, this
indicator is greyed. In the example presented, as Stitcheck values for both tests
are within the defined limits, the LED indicator turns green.
Section 1 of each result panel includes a legend containing the test names and
respective colours. This legend is not reproduced in the remaining sections due to
space limitations.

V-24
 b) Section 2: Thread tensions

Figure V- 16: Stitch Formation Test, Section 2 - Thread Tensions

Section 2 of the stitch formation test plots the chronological sequence of thread
tension in up to 4 stitch cycle phases. The radio buttons at the bottom of the
screen allow the user to choose between the three sewing threads, and if peak
values, angles of occurrence or peak ratios are to be displayed. These radio
buttons also determine what is displayed in section 3, and so they are present in
both sections.
If the test has been processed without the Separate Acquisitions option, then
one plot will be drawn for each test.
If acquisitions have been separated at processing time, a plot for each
acquisition is drawn. These can be identified as being part of a specific test by
their plot colour. The Sequence Acquisitions option can be selected to
concatenate the data sets at display time. This is equivalent to the normal display
with concatenated results.
For each acquisition the limits are plotted as horizontal dashed lines. In the case
of Figure V- 16, peaks 1 and 2 are within the defined limits, and the red LED in
peak 3 and 4 indicates that at least one of the displayed tests is beyond limits.

V-25
 c) Section 3: Average waveform and static values of thread tension
Section 3 shows the average waveforms of thread tension, and the static thread
tensions obtained in the Machine setup and material properties configuration
panel.

Figure V- 17: Stitch Formation Test, Section 3 Average tension waveform and
static thread tensions

The average waveform is displayed for the thread selected at the thread
selection radio-buttons (top left in this section). Static thread tensions are shown
for all three threads in the following order (left to right): Needle, lower looper,
upper looper. In the example, the same static thread tension was used in both
tests, but the average dynamic tension was higher in one of the tests due to a
higher number of fabric plies. This result can also be observed in Section 2 (Figure
V- 16)
No limits are defined for these two parameters.

V-26
 d) Section 4: Multifunction graph
To allow maximum flexibility in the analysis of the data sets generated by test
processing, a multifunction graph has been added to the stitch formation test.

Figure V- 18: Stitch Formation Test, Section 4 Multifunction graph

With this utility, the user can instantly compute basic statistical parameters
available in the Descriptive Statistics Panel of the AST software
Moreover, it is possible to determine the correlation between two data sets, and
to generate x-y graphs. In these cases, a second listbox is enabled on the screen
to allow a more practical selection of the two data sets.

e) Section 5: Thread consumption

Figure V- 19: Stitch Formation Test, Section 4 Thread consumption

To display thread consumption three bar graphs, one for each thread, are
provided.

V-27
 As thread consumption measurement is performed individually for each seam, a
bar for each seam in a test is displayed in the tests colour. The user may choose
to display the total thread consumption, the consumption per stitch or the
percentage of overall thread consumption for each thread.
Theoretical thread consumption prediction appears in the graph when the
appropriate checkbox is checked.
Limits are displayed as horizontal dashed lines, and are defined as tolerances
around the predicted value.

2.5.2. Feeding Efficiency Subtest Results

a) Section 1: Analysis of force on presser-foot

Figure V- 20: Feeding Efficiency Test, Section 1 Force on presser-foot

The upper part of this section shows the amplitude of force on the presser-foot
and the harmonics of the force signals spectra.
In the lower part, three harmonic distortion parameters are displayed as bar
graphs. The software computes a spectrum for each acquisition (seam),
displaying a value for each acquisition (in this case, regardless of the Separate
Acquisitions option). One set of limits is calculated for each test, based on the
sewing speed of the first acquisition processed for that test.

b) Section 2: Analysis of presser-foot displacement

Section 2 of the feeding efficiency subtest shows the analysis of presser-foot
displacement (Figure V- 21). A 3-D graph represents the three peaks/valley of the
displacement signal.
On the right side, spectral contents of the signal are analysed with the
representation of the spectras harmonics and the display of the THD (Total
harmonic distortion) parameter.

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Figure V- 21: Feeding Efficiency Test, Section 2 Presser-foot displacement

The 3-D graph can be conveniently rotated by mouse drag, and controls are
provided to generate projections and set the viewing distance.
Limits for displacement are not represented on the 3-D graph, but they are
displayed in Section 3 of this subtests result panel.

c) Section 3: Analysis of presser-foot displacement features using an

alternative representation
This section repeats the presser-foot displacement data by representing each of
the peaks/valley of the time signal in a chronological chart. This is the only
possibility to detect the exact instant (or location on the seam) of a specific
event.
Additionally the user may display angles of occurrence of the peaks and the
valley computed in the test.
Limits are represented on these charts, rather than on the 3-D representation, for
easier analysis of the results.

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 Figure V- 22: Feeding Efficiency Test, Section 3 Presser-foot displacement
features using an alternative representation

d) Section 4: Analysis of presser-foot average trajectories and reference

cycles

Figure V- 23: Feeding Efficiency Test, Section 4 Presser-foot average trajectories

and reference cycles

The last section of this subtest analyses the average trajectories of the presser-foot
in each test and plots them with the reference cycles acquired at low speed.
In the example of Figure V- 23, two tests were performed with the same
configuration, and thus the same reference cycles for the presser-foot
movement. The lower dashed line shows the reference cycle obtained without
fabric, and the upper dashed line represents the reference cycle obtained when
sewing two plies of a fabric at low speed.

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 The test represented in blue is based on a seam joining two plies of fabric, at a
higher speed, whilst the test in red derives from a seam of four plies of the same
fabric and speed.
As can be seen, the average waveform of the 4-ply seam offsets significantly from
the reference cycle (due to the additional 2 fabric plies) and that from the 2-ply
seam is close to the reference cycle (the slight difference is caused by sewing
speed increase).
Another option to analyse the difference in more detail is available displaying the
subtraction of the average waveform from the reference cycle. This option can
be selected with the radio buttons on the upper right corner of the screen.

2.5.3. Needle Penetration Subtest Results

a) Section 1: 3D-analysis of needle-bar force signal features

Figure V- 24: Needle Penetration Test, Section 1 3-D analysis of features

The first section of the needle penetration test panel is based on a 3-D graph that
displays the features and feature ratios selected with the radio buttons at the
bottom of the screen. These radio buttons select display for this section and for
section 2, being shared between the two.
The statistical mode is available on the section 2 graphs only.

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 b) Section 2: Chronological and statistical analysis of signal features

Figure V- 25: Needle Penetration Test, Section 2 Chronological analysis of

features

Section 2 displays the signal features and ratios in chronological charts and
enables the selection of the statistical mode to present several statistic
parameters computed over the features and ratios. In this situation the
chronological charts are switched to bar graphs.

c) Section 3: Multifunction graph

Figure V- 26: Needle Penetration Test, Section 3 Multifunction graph

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The last section of this panel is a multifunction graph similar to the one included in
the stitch formation result panel. The generation of x-y graphs has not been
implemented for simplicity and considering that the 3-D graphing of section 1
provides the same functionality.

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3. References

[1] Silva, L. F., Estudo de Mecanismos Alternativos de Controlo do Sistema de

Alimentao de Mquinas de Costura Industriais, PhD thesis, University of Minho,
Portugal 2002
[2] Carvalho, M., Estudo das relaes entre os parmetros de controlo, propriedades dos
materiais e condies de regulao numa mquina de costura corta-e-cose, PhD
thesis, University of Minho, Portugal, 2002
[3] Carvalho, H., Medio e Anlise de Parmetros em Mquina de Costura Industrial,
MSc Thesis, University of Minho, Portugal, 1998

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