Daniel'sDefinitiveGuideToVegetableGardening Volume1 VegetablesA-E

Daniels Definitive Guide to Vegetable Gardening, Volume 1 Vegetables A-E
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Table of Contents
LEGALESE DISTRIBUTION RIGHTS .................................................................... 3
PLAIN ENGLISH DISTRIBUTION RIGHTS .......................................................... 3
GET STARTED! ........................................................................................................ 4
HOW TO PICK THE LOCATION FOR YOUR GARDEN...................................... 7
GETTING YOUR GARDEN READY-CULTIVATION .......................................... 8
GETTING YOUR GARDEN READY-FERTILIZATION ....................................... 9
PLANTING THE GARDEN .................................................................................... 11
EARLY GARDEN WORK ...................................................................................... 13
THINNING PLANTS ............................................................................................... 15
TRANSPLANTING ................................................................................................. 16
ARTICHOKE, GLOBE (Cynara cardunculus var. scolymus) ................................. 18
ARTICHOKE, JERUSALEM (Helianthus tuberosus) ............................................. 19
ASPARAGUS (Asparagus officinalis) ..................................................................... 20
BEAN, COMMON (Phaseolus vulgaris) .................................................................. 22
BEAN, LIMA (Phaseolus lunatis) ............................................................................ 26
BEAN, RUNNER (Phaseolus coccineus) ................................................................. 27
BEET (Beta vulgaris subspecies vulgaris Conditiva Group) .................................... 28
BROCCOLI (Brassica oleracea var. italica) ............................................................. 29
BRUSSELS SPROUTS (Brassica oleracea var. gemmifera) ................................... 31
CABBAGE (Brassica oleracea var. capitate) ........................................................... 32
CANTALOUPE (Cucumis melo var. cantalupo) ..................................................... 33
CARROT (Daucus carota subsp. sativus) ................................................................. 35
CAULIFLOWER (Brassica oleracea var. botrytis) .................................................. 36
CELERIAC (Apium graveolens var. rapaceum) ...................................................... 38
CELERY (Apium graveolens) .................................................................................. 39
CHAYOTE (Sechium edule) .................................................................................... 42
CORN, SWEET (Zea mays convar. saccharata var. rugosa) .................................... 44
CUCUMBER (Cucumis sativus) .............................................................................. 47
EGG PLANT (Solanum melongena) ........................................................................ 49
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Distribution Rights in Legalese and Plain English

LEGALESE DISTRIBUTION RIGHTS
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PLAIN ENGLISH DISTRIBUTION RIGHTS

In plain English, please share this eBook! Please share it with your family,
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We operate on the belief that if we are the first to give away tremendous value,
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garden! See you soon!
Sincerely,
Daniel Thomas
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Daniels Definitive Guide to Vegetable

Gardening- Volume 1 (Vegetables A-E)
Part I
General Vegetable Growing Knowledge
GET STARTED!
You can do it!

Not everybody has a vegetable garden. There are several misconceptions about
gardening that I hope to clear up right away, before diving into the rest of this book.
Hopefully, what you will take away from this foreword is that YOU can definitely grow
vegetables!
Just dive in!

Some people deny themselves the pleasure of a garden because they have never
had any previous experience, and have somehow got the impression that special training
is needed. However, this is a mistake. There is no special "knack" to growing one.
Anyone who has a little bit of land, some time, and the desire to learn, can become a
successful gardener in one season. All you need to garden is the proper knowledge, and
the willingness to take action on what you have learned. After the first season you will
have enough knowledge and skill to teach others, if you would like to!
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Man working in his garden
Any amount of ground will work

People with hardly any land or space may think it is not worthwhile to grow
vegetables on it. This is also a mistake. Of course, you cant grow a ton of vegetables on
a small piece of ground, but you would be surprised at how much you can grow. Even if
you dont have any land, you can still grow vegetables in containers.
Its less work than you might think

Another misunderstanding is that to have a good garden, you have to spend a
large amount of time and work to take care of it. Not so. After cultivating and planting
your garden, the most work usually involves weeding, watering, and harvesting. You can
easily weed by marching through the garden with a hoe and chopping the top off any
emerging weeds. Unless you have a huge garden, that wont take any more than about 20
minutes a week. You might not need to water at all, depending on how much rain your
area gets, and you can also harvest your garden in a matter of minutes every week.
Home-grown tastes better

If you have never eaten home-grown vegetables, you cant even begin to
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understand the difference between store-bought vs fresh-picked. Veggies that you can
buy at a supermarket often look good, but the flavor of fresh-grown cannot be beat. If you
want any vegetable to taste its best, you should try growing it in your own garden.
Vegetable gardening can save you lots of money

Some may think that vegetable gardening is an expensive hobby, but it can save
you a whole lot of money if you grow your own food. Home gardening is so cost-
effective that victory gardens were grown at the homes of citizens across several
countries during World Wars I and II to help conserve resources for fighting.
People watering a victory garden
Just grow a garden, even if its not perfect!

Also, some people may be deterred from gardening by the amount of work it
takes to prepare the soil and keep the weeds out. If you can remove weeds every week,
they wont get a foothold in your garden, and weeding once a week will end up taking
much less work than you think. Also, as far as the soil conditions go, I have listed the
ideal soil types for each vegetable. The more picky vegetables such as cauliflower and
celery will require high fertility and preparation, but less choosy types such as beans and
broccoli will give you some flexibility. Dont worry about having a perfect garden soil,
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just do your best to enrich it by cultivating in some organic matter and fertilizer, and keep
the weeds in check, and you will have varying degrees of success. Varying degrees of
success are always better than no success, which is what results from not taking action at
all. Take action, have fun, and grow a garden! A less-than-perfect garden is way better
than one that never got planted!
HOW TO PICK THE LOCATION FOR YOUR GARDEN
Get started immediately

Since you need to be able to visit your garden frequently throughout the growing
season, if you can, select a site that is close to your house. Dont necessarily worry about
getting the perfect spot- you can always change it next year.
Rotating crops and locations

Changing locations, or at least rotating types of plants grown in certain parts of
your garden from year to year, can actually help prevent disease. The downside of
moving the entire location, of course, is that you would have to re-cultivate the ground
again. A happy medium is usually just rotating ground devoted to specific vegetables
every year, so that no one plant type grows on the same ground for two years in a row.
For example, if you are growing tomatoes in the north half and lettuce in the south half of
your garden this year, just switch the tomatoes to the south and the lettuce to the north
next year, and rotate to the other side the year after that. Commercial farmers in the
United States often rotate their corn and soybeans every year to maximize productivity
and reduce disease.
Southern vs northern slopes

The lay of the land has considerable influence on the time that the soil can be
worked, and a gentle slope toward the south or southeast is best for growing crops earlier
(at least in the Northern Hemisphere). The reason for this is that during winter, south
facing slopes get much more heat from the sun than north facing slopes in the mid
latitudes of the Northern Hemisphere. That is why the south side of your house is usually
naturally warmer in winter, in those environments. If you do live in the Northern
hemisphere, and choose an area that slopes north, it is best have some sort of protection
from the North and Northwest blowing winds. That protection might be a hill, a group of
trees, evergreens, a hedge, buildings, a tight board fence, or a stone wall. However, if you
arent concerned with getting your garden planted early, then dont worry about the slope
of your land when picking your garden location.
Water drainage
Good natural drainage of the garden area is very important. The land should not
have standing water after heavy rains, but too much of a slope can cause soil loss due to
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erosion. However, usually you wont have erosion problems unless the site you select is
very steep. Finally, your garden should not be located along the banks of a creek or
stream that could overflow during the growing season.
Wind protection
A good fence around your garden plot will be very valuable if you think you
might have problems with animals trying to steal your vegetables. If you can afford it, a
tight board fence will keep out rabbits and also serve as a wind-break. If you cant afford
it though, dont worry, there are plenty of other ways to keep animals out of your garden.
In fact, when it comes to many potential garden problems, you should just play it by ear,
and deal with any specific problems as they come. If you try to take the time to prepare
for every possible problem, you will never accomplish anything at all!
GETTING YOUR GARDEN READY-CULTIVATION
Make sure it is warm enough

If you are eager to start gardening, you may be tempted to start planting at the
first signs of spring. However, a few warm days are not enough to put the ground in
proper condition for planting seeds. If you are sowing seeds or transplanting plants
directly into the garden, you should usually wait until after the last frost. You can find out
the average date of the last frost that is specific to your area by simply googling the
question. Also give the ground a little time for extra water from melting snows and spring
rains to drain away. If you want to grow vegetables very early, it will be necessary to
start them inside, or, even better, in a hothouse or greenhouse.
Cultivation celebration!
The first thing to do in preparing your garden is to cultivate it. Cultivating the
ground is simply breaking it up and turning it over with a shovel, hoe, or cultivator
(tiller). This prepares your garden soil for planting by aerating it and loosening it.
Unfortunately, it does also plant weed seeds lying on the surface of the ground, so make
sure that you have your hoe handy soon afterwards to chop the weed seedlings while they
are still tender!
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Cultivated garden soil
Cultivating clay soils

Gardens with a very heavy clay soil should be cultivated in the fall, especially in
areas that freeze during winter. This is because the winter cycle of freezing and thawing
can help break up big clumps of sticky clay-like soil into smaller clods. If you have a
sandier soil, you can usually wait until spring to cultivate your ground, since it will
already be much easier to work than clay.
When is the soil ready?

Whatever your soil type, you dont want to work the soil when it is too wet
because you will be flinging mud and compacting your soil even more. To test whether
your ground is ready to cultivate, take a handful and squeeze it together- if the soil sticks
together into a ball it is too wet to work, but if it crumbles in your hands, it is ready.
GETTING YOUR GARDEN READY-FERTILIZATION
Vegetables LOVE fertility!

In general, vegetables respond very well to high-fertility soils. In fact, the less
hardy varieties will actually require it to produce a decent crop. If you are cultivating
your ground in the spring, before you begin, you should spread some fertilizer on top to
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enrich the soil as you turn it over. A rich soil is necessary for vegetable tenderness and
flavor, especially when you are growing vegetables for their leaves, stems, or buds.
Organic fertility solutions

Aged chicken or horse manure is some of the best fertilizer you can find, but it
might be hard to come by for people who do not live in the country. Other non-
commercial options include leaves, compost, or grass clippings. If your city collects
leaves in the fall, you might be able to get some for free to enrich your garden-it never
hurts to ask! Also, many people end up starting their own compost piles so they can
enrich their soil with their own leaves and grass clippings. It is hard to over-fertilize when
you are using manure or organic material such as leaves or grass. In general, the more of
those you add, the better your soil will become. In fact, if you mix the fertilizer into the
soil after application, you could probably add up to six inches deep across your garden
without any problem at all.
Boys with manure that has aged enough to enrich the soil
Commercial fertility solutions

There are also many commercial fertilizers on the market, but not all kinds of
them are adapted to all kinds of soil. In order to get the best results, you can have your
soil chemically tested, and fertilize accordingly to correct nutrient deficiencies. However,
if you simply scatter a general-purpose, slow-release fertilizer on the ground before
planting, your soil will be much better than if you do nothing at all. Just make sure that
you read and follow the label on the chemical fertilizer so that you dont over-apply and
hurt your garden. Unlike aged manure and grass clippings, too much chemical fertilizer
can burn the roots of your plants.
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Fertilize before cultivating

It is usually a good idea to apply whatever fertilizer you choose across your
garden before you start cultivating. However, commercial fertilizers can be applied later
with great results- just be sure that you apply it so that it does not directly contact the
seed in the ground, or the foliage of seedlings, since it may burn the tender young plants.
Smoothing the soil

After springtime cultivating, allow the soil to remain as it is for two or three days.
Sunshine and warm air will help to break the clumps of soil down for you. Afterwards,
you can finish breaking up the soil chunks into an even and uniform consistency. You
cannot expect to grow good vegetables in a soil that is not smooth and uniform before
seed is planted. You can chop up the bigger clumps with a hoe, and then spread the soil
evenly with a garden rake to finish breaking it up and smoothing it out.
PLANTING THE GARDEN
Planting tiny seeds

When you are planting tiny seeds directly into your garden, be careful not to plant
them too deeply. Very small seeds hardly need to be covered at all. If they are planted too
deeply, they will not have enough reserves inside the seed itself to reach the light at the
top of the soil. If they cannot reach the light before their reserves run out, they simply
will not grow. In fact, for smaller seeds, it is best to plant them by simply scattering them
on the surface of the ground and gently pressing them down into the soil with a board,
hoe, or other flat surface. This embeds the seed in the soil, and puts them in contact with
soil moisture, without compacting the soil beneath them.
Planting medium to large seeds

However, most garden vegetable seeds are big enough to cover with soil when
planting. For most vegetables, little furrows should be made by pushing a stick or hoe
edge through the soil. Then, drop the seed into the furrow with the proper spacing as
evenly as possible. It should then be covered lightly and the soil should be pressed down
with the hoe to make it somewhat firm, but not so firm that the ground is compacted.
Typically, you want to plant more seeds than you need so that you can weed out the
weakest ones and allow the best ones to remain and grow.
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Large seeds can be planted in furrows
Multiple plantings in one season

If you have enough ground and/or pot space, you might want to make multiple
plantings in succession so that you can have multiple crops! Planting the same vegetable
at intervals of ten days to two weeks can help make it possible to have fresh vegetables
throughout the entire growing season. You can make individual plantings much smaller if
you do this, but if you do this in the same space, be sure to add some more fertilizer
around midseason, so that you dont deplete too many soil nutrients from one space.
Planning for frost-free days

Almost all vegetables have early, medium, and late varieties. Usually, you can
find out the approximate number of days from planting to harvest for each type of
variety. Then plan to give each type of plant enough time to grow and be harvested
before the first frost. (This is only necessary for people living in areas that experience
frost.) You should figure out the day of the typical first frost in your area so that you
make sure you can select a variety that matures in enough time from planting to harvest
without being killed by frost. You can also push the boundaries of the first frost a little bit
by covering your plants with a blanket during nights that have frost- this is a great tip for
extending your growing season a little bit, but it typically wont protect against a really
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hard freeze.
Seeds should be alive

Make sure you buy your seed from a source that you know is high quality. Cheap
seed might save a little money in the short term, but it might end up costing you in the
long term. One of the reasons seed quality is so important is due to germination- dead
seeds wont sprout and grow. If you save your own seeds, make sure that you store them
in a cool dry place to extend the amount of time they are alive. A cool dry place should
keep your seeds alive for at least a couple of years.
EARLY GARDEN WORK
Your seeds vs. weeds

After planting your garden, there will be a short period of time during which the
seed will begin to germinate and push up through the soil. Pretty soon after your own
plants germinate, you will definitely see some weeds starting to sprout up as well. Make
sure that you pay close attention to your garden after planting, so that you know what
each type of vegetable seedling looks like. That way, you wont confuse your garden
plants with newly sprouting weeds.
Weed out weeds early!

Weeding should be started as soon as you notice weeds beginning to grow in your
garden. By starting your weeding as early as possible, and making sure that it gets done
every single week afterwards, it will be relatively easy to keep the weeds under control.
But if you let those weeds get a strong startand believe me, they can get started very
quicklyit will be very difficult to keep them out of your garden. When it comes to
weeding, the best defense is a strong offense. If you do remove them frequently, and
while they are still young, you will save yourself hours of time later. One weed plant that
produces seed can turn into hundreds of weeds in the future, so make sure that you dont
let a single one survive. The most common, and often the costliest mistake a gardener can
make is to let weed seedlings survive any longer than a week. Dont let it happen to you,
and your garden vegetables will richly reward you.
Hoes make weeding easy

Also, you dont need to bother crawling around on your hands and knees pulling
weeds by hand if you use a garden hoe to slice them off the top, or completely uproot
them by digging them up with your hoe. A good garden hoe only costs around $20, and
can last for years to come. However, remember that it is much easier to hoe weeds up
when they are young and tender- if they grow enough to send their roots deep, you will
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have no other choice than to pull them out by hand.
Mulch is fantastic for vegetables

Not many people consider using mulch in vegetable gardens. However, mulching
can go a long way to smother weeds and to help conserve soil moisture by preventing it
from evaporating into the air. If you do decide to use mulch, apply it after your garden
plants have grown to at least five or six inches tall, so that they dont get smothered by
the mulch. You can get mulch at your nearest garden supply or landscaping store. Not
only will mulch give your garden a very clean, professional look, but it will also fertilize
your garden as it breaks down over time. This decomposition will also naturally warm the
ground, and help plants that love warm soil, such as tomatoes, squash, melons, and corn.
Cucumbers and lettuce in a mulched garden
Fertilize once, maybe twice

If the soil was properly fertilized at the time of planting it will not be necessary to
apply more fertilizer until the later part of the season. Even then only a small amount
should be neededjust a little bit should hold your plants over until you fertilize again in
spring.
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THINNING PLANTS
Thin out the losers

When your vegetable plants start to grow, it will probably be necessary to thin
them. Thinning plants means removing plants that are growing close together, so that the
remaining plants have enough space to grow. This should be done as soon as the plants
are large enough to pull, and before they begin to crowd each other out. Otherwise, they
may all become weak and spindly, resulting in a poor harvest. The goal of thinning
should be to remove the centers of the thick bunches, leaving the spaces between
seedlings as uniform as possible. Remove the smaller, weaker plants, and allow the best
ones to remain.
Crowded seedlings that need to be thinned
Dont wait too long to thin

Some gardeners will mistakenly put off thinning too long for root vegetables such
as carrots or onions because they want to use the thinned plants as food. Usually this is a
mistake (except for beets, which can be used quite young for greens). The roots of
crowded seedlings do not reach edible size as soon as they would if they were properly
spaced. Also, removing some of the crowded plants when they are halfway to maturity is
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likely to seriously disturb and impair the growth of the remaining roots. A better plan is
to make at least a preliminary thinning as early as possible, leaving the plants perhaps
twice as thick as they ultimately should be; and then to pull out every other plant after
they reach edible size. This method of thinning is especially recommended for beets,
carrots, lettuce and onions. The other root crops, like parsnips and salsify, should be
thinned to the full distance at the first thinning.
TRANSPLANTING
Transplanting is almost necessary for cold climates

In the northern part of the Northern Hemisphere, where the growing season is
short, it is necessary to transplant several different types of vegetables in order to produce
strong plants that will mature within the limits of the growing season. Further south,
however, the season is longer, and transplanting may not be needed as much.
Breaking roots makes them branch

Certain vegetables which are grown for their straight roots, such as carrots, are
often injured by having their roots bent or broken in transplanting. On the other hand,
plants such as celery, which have a straight root but are grown for their tops, are greatly
benefited by transplanting. In any case, transplanting has a tendency to increase the
number of small roots, which is good for garden vegetables which are not grown for their
main straight root, such as carrots or parsnips.
Some roots shouldnt be disturbed

Some garden plants, including squash, melons, cucumbers, and beans, do not
transplant well. You need to use some special techniques if you would like to transplant
these plants. One method that works for plants grown in peat pots is to punch some big
holes in the pot and then plant the entire pot in the ground without disturbing the roots.
The peat pot will naturally dissolve into the soil over time, and the plants roots will
comfortably branch out into the surrounding soil. One trick you can use for plastic plots
is to cut the plastic pot open with strong scissors, and place the intact root system into a
prepared hole in the ground- the trick here is to disturb the existing roots as little as
possible.
Some roots should be disturbed

However, when you are transplanting other plants, you typically DO want to
gently break up the soil of roots in the pot so that those plants will experience a slight
shock, and respond by sending out roots into their surrounding environment. This is
especially true for plants that outgrow their pots and have a large amount of root tissue
that takes on the shape of the pot itself. In this case, make sure you untangle the roots,
and dont be afraid to break some as you work them free so that they are ready to grow
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out into the surrounding soil once they are transplanted.
Part II
Specific Vegetables, In Alphabetical Order
Introduction
Now that you have some general vegetable gardening knowledge, I am going to
dive into the specific varieties you can grow. I try to include information about the ideal
growing conditions for each one, as well as specific tips that can help make you
successful. However, dont worry if you cant follow every step for soil preparation. If
you want to grow a certain type of plant, but you dont have the time or money to fix
your soil this year, go ahead and grow that plant anyway. It might not do as well as it
could, but it might surprise you just the same! An ounce of your own experimentation is
worth a pound of work that never gets done at all.
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ARTICHOKE, GLOBE (Cynara cardunculus var. scolymus)
The bur (flower bud) is the edible portion of the globe artichoke
This crop is not suited for growing where temperatures fall below freezing. The
plants do not produce until the second season, and in cold locations some form of
covering will be necessary during the winter. Globe artichokes require a deep, rich sandy
loam soil, with a lot of fertilizer. Plant the seeds as soon as the soil is warm in the spring.
If you are transplanting, when the plants have formed three or four leaves they may be
transplanted to rows 3 feet apart and 2 feet apart within the row. After the plants have
established themselves, the plants may be reset each year by using the side shoots from
the base of the old plants. If not reset the they will continue to produce for several years,
but the burs will not be so large as they would be from new plants. The bur, or flower
bud, is the part that is consumed, and the burs should be gathered before the blossom part
appears. The blossom is a large purple flower, and this plant is actually a type of thistle.
If the burs are removed and no seed is allowed to form, the plants will continue to
produce until the end of the season.
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ARTICHOKE, JERUSALEM (Helianthus tuberosus)
The root of the Jerusalem artichoke is the edible part of the plant
This useful and productive root vegetable is actually a type of sunflower, and is
different from the thistle-like globe artichoke. It will grow in any good garden soil, and
should be planted with three to four feet of spacing all around, with three or four small
tubers in a hill. If large tubers are used for planting they should be cut into smaller pieces
before planting, in the same way you would do for a large potato. When cutting for
planting, leave about two eyes per piece of root. Plant as soon as the ground becomes
warm in the spring. A pint of tubers cut into eyes will plant about thirty hills. The tubers
will be ready for harvesting around October, but may remain in the ground and be dug at
any time during the winter.
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ASPARAGUS (Asparagus officinalis)
Emerging asparagus shoots
Asparagus -a luxurious perennial vegetable

This valuable perennial vegetable used to be grown as a luxury food for rich
people, and is still a relatively expensive plant for commercial growers to produce.
Asparagus seed vs transplanting

There are two methods for growing asparagus- growing from seed, and growing
from transplanted plants. The second method is the quickest way to start them. One-year-
old roots are rumored to be better than two-year-old roots, as they will supposedly be
more productive for a longer period of time. Asparagus takes much longer to grow from
seed than to grow from transplanting plants, so you will need extra patience for this
technique. If you know someone who already has an asparagus bed which is producing
good spears and is about the right age for seed production, (8 to 12 years old), then this is
the best way to get free seeds. If you do decide to buy seeds, remember that good seed are
worth good money; poor seeds are worth nothing because they are dead.
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Soil for asparagus

Asparagus will grow on most soils, and will yield large crops in clay soils.
However, if you are growing them for a market, then a light sandy soil with good fertility
is better, because it will enable you to produce good spears earlier, and because it is
easier to cultivate. You should avoid growing asparagus in standing water. The soil
should be free of roots, stones, or any material that might interfere with the growth of the
spears.
Sunlight for asparagus

Make sure that you dont grow your asparagus in the shade, because the sunshine
helps encourage asparagus spears to reach the surface. Basically, make sure that
asparagus gets as much sun as possible.
Asparagus cultivation
In the late fall or early winter the selected area needs to be deeply cultivated, and
if the soil is not already well-drained, you should cultivate it to a depth of at least 15
inches. After smoothing the soil, spread aged manure or slow-release fertilizer on top of
the ground until early spring, and then plow it into the ground.
Planting asparagus
After cultivation, as early in the spring as possible, mark rows 4 to 6 feet apart.
Rows should ideally run north and south, so that they can get as much sunshine as
possible. If the rows run east and west, they will be shaded by the ridges in early spring,
when the sun is low in the south, and later in the season they will be completely shaded
on one side by the tall foliage. This delays sprouting in the spring, and prevents them
from optimal growth. If you cant plant north to south, try to avoid planting directly east
to west by going as close to north and south as you can. Southeast to northwest or
northeast to southwest is better than due east or west. Dig the rows into furrows from 8 to
12 inches deep, and plant the crowns in the furrows. Different people have different
opinions about spacing, but two to four feet between plants within rows should give the
plants enough room.
White vs green asparagus

If you want white asparagus, you will need to blanch the shoots by covering them
with dirt. Early in the spring of each year, after the plants are old enough to cut, make a
ridge over the rows to blanch the shoots. As soon as you see the shoot tips emerging, you
will need to add more dirt on top of the ridges every week or so during the cutting season.
Green asparagus is produced when the shoots reach the sun and begin to produce
chlorophyll, so continue to cover the shoots as they grow to keep them white. If you want
green asparagus, dont ridge dirt over the roots, just let them emerge from the ground to
find the sun. Honestly, I think the extra work is not worth it, since green asparagus is
more nutritious than white.
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Harvesting asparagus
When harvesting white asparagus, you will need to carefully remove the dirt and
cut the spears. When you harvest green asparagus, cut the shoot about eight or nine
inches below the ground level, so that you have some extra shoot length that will keep the
green portion fresher for longer.
Asparagus shoots into bushes

The shoots which you do not harvest will mature into bushes that feed and
strengthen the plant roots beneath the soil. The buds that give rise to next years shoots
are formed underground while these stalks are growing above ground during the summer.
The bushes should be cut as soon as the berries ripen, since at this point the growth will
be mature enough so that no harm will be done to the roots. However, if you want to
gather seed, cut the bushes after collecting the seeds.
BEAN, COMMON (Phaseolus vulgaris)
Botanical illustration of the common bean plant
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Bean growth habits

I will discuss most of the growing and cultivation needs for all bean types right
here underneath the common bean species since they are similar to lima and runner
beans. The common bean (Phaseolus vulgaris) may be divided into two general groups
based on their growth habitbush and pole beans. As their name suggests, bush beans
have a bush-like habit, and need little to no support. Pole beans, however, need a pole or
something similar to support them as they climb, because they are vines.
Bean eating types

Also, beans have three eating types: snap beans, green shelling beans, and dry
beans. Snap beans have their name because both pod and beans are snapped and eaten
young-they are also known as green beans. Green shelling beans are eaten without their
pod when they are still young. Dry beans are mature and dry before being harvested.
Basically, these three types correspond to the specific growth stage when they are
harvested and cooked- earliest for snap beans, later for green shelling beans, and latest for
dry beans. You could probably harvest all three eating types from the same vine or bush
simply by timing your harvest. However, certain varieties may have been bred to have the
best flavor at a certain harvest stage, so for optimal flavor, follow the recommendations.
A lot of different color patterns, sizes, and shapes have been developed for the common
dry bean- kidney beans, black beans, and navy beans are just a few of them.
Beans enrich soil

While clay loams or soils overlying limestone may be ideal, sandy and even
gravelly loams may be used. Just make sure that if your soils are sandy or gravelly, that
they should still be able to hold some organic material such as rotted leaves or manure.
Also, while claylike soil is usually high in minerals, if the soil is so thick that water
cannot drain, then the beans will probably run into some problems, so try to ensure that
your soil has some drainage. Beans seem to produce good crops on soils somewhat
deficient in nitrogen when well supplied with potash (for potassium) and phosphorus.
This is because they can turn nitrogen from the air into soil nitrogen with the help of
specialized bacteria present in their root nodules. In this way, beans and other legumes
actually enrich the soil around them with nitrogen.
Soil cultivation for beans

Since beans cannot be safely planted until after danger from frost has passed,
spring cultivation should happen when the soil is warm and dry enough to work. Since
beans are considered to be a short-season crop, the land you use to grow them can be
occupied during the winter months by a cover crop such as wheat or other small grains. If
you plan to use the same land for growing beans year after year, winter cover crops are an
important way to maintain organic matter in the soil, while reducing the need for
fertilizers. If you do use fertilizer, use a balanced general purpose fertilizer, or one that is
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high phosphorous and potassium, but low in nitrogen, since beans can make their own
nitrogen.
Planting beans
Beans planted later in the year (but still early enough to gather a harvest before
winter) have the advantage of escaping the most serious attacks of bean rust, a fungal
disease. While there are some varieties which are more resistant to this trouble, late
planting can help reduce it even more. The planting distance between rows can range
from 28 to 36 inches, and the seeds can be planted from 2 to 4 inches apart within the
row. Planting depth is determined by the type of the soil in which the beans are planted.
In heavy, retentive soils planting depth should be made comparatively shallow, no deeper
than one inch, so that the young plants will be able to reach the surface. In very sandy
soils, beans can be planted to about 2 inches deep. All things considered, a happy
medium is about 1 inches. Thin plants to about 6 inches between seedlings once they
have their first three or four leaves.
Support for pole beans

Pole beans will need some sort of support as they grow, since they are actually
vines. Some people like to plant them right beside young corn plants, because they can
climb up the corn stalks as they both grow together. This might reduce the productivity of
beans a little bit, since the corn and beans are competing for the same resources.
However, it is an excellent way to save space and still get good returns from both crops.
It is said that Native Americans used this very technique to grow their corn and beans
together. If you decide to use this strategy, just make sure that the corn plants have a four
to six inch head start before you plant your beans, so that the beans will not outgrow your
corn. You can also place poles, posts, or other vine supports near pole beans if you decide
not to use corn stalks. Bush beans should not require support, but they still may benefit a
little from it, especially in longer growing seasons.
Bean harvesting
For harvesting green beans, pick the pods when they are still green, right after
they have reached their full length. Green shelling beans can be picked just a little later,
as the full-length pods begin to ripen and the seeds inside become large, but before the
pod begins to dry out. Dry beans can be harvested when both the pod and the seeds inside
are fully dry.
Bean storage
You will want to consume green beans and green shelling beans very soon after
you harvest them, but dry beans can be stored for a long time before you are ready to eat
them. Dry beans can be stored longer in the freezer than at room temperature, but keep in
mind that after about a year or so, they probably wont have the same flavor that they
would have had earlier.
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Eating beans
ANY AND ALL BEANS MUST BE FULLY COOKED before eating. This goes
for lima beans, common beans, runner beans, and any other legumes that you can think
of. The reason for this is that they contain a protein called phytohaemagglutinin, which is
a protein that is toxic when consumed raw. Make sure that you fully cook your beans to
avoid this problem.
Cooking dry beans

Additionally, if you are cooking dry beans, first soak them in water for about 5
hours, and then discard the soaking water before cooking them. This will make the beans
easier to cook, so that you wont have problems with toxic proteins, and it will also
reduce their ability to make you gassy. If you boil beans, you should do so for about 30
minutes to completely denature the harmful protein. The highest concentration of this
protein toxin is found in red kidney beans, and insufficient cooking in a slow cooker can
actually increase the toxic properties of phytohaemagglutinin. If you are going to use a
slow cooker for your beans, just make sure that you soak the beans as described and boil
them for about 15 minutes before putting them in the slow cooker. I say all this not to
scare you, since cooked beans have been safely consumed by humans for centuries just
make sure they are fully cooked, and they will provide you with tons of protein, nutrition
and flavor!
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BEAN, LIMA (Phaseolus lunatis)
Lima beans
Lima beans can be used in cooking just like the green shell and dry varieties of
common beans. In fact, they are actually richer and more delicate in flavor. For growing
and cultivation information, treat these just like common beans. Also, for cooking,
MAKE SURE YOU COOK THEM THOROUGHLY, as discussed above under the
eating section for common beans. Just like common beans, different varieties have one of
two height types- the short, bush-like growth habit and the tall, vine-like pole growth
habit.
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BEAN, RUNNER (Phaseolus coccineus)
Runner bean vines in blossom
Runner beans can be used like common beans in cooking IF FULLY COOKED.
For further growing, cultivation, and cooking information, refer to the common bean
above. However, there are a few interesting differences that set these beans apart from
common beans. Runner beans usually have a vine-like pole growth habit, and I am not
aware of any varieties that have the bush habit. They are quite ornamental, and are often
grown both for their beautiful flowers as well as their edible pods and seeds. In addition,
they can be grown as perennial vines in very warm climates.
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BEET (Beta vulgaris subspecies vulgaris Conditiva Group)
Mature beet roots and tops
Cultivation for beets

The red garden beet may be grown in any good soil, but rich, sandy loam will
give the best results. Cultivate deep and prepare the ground well; the seedlings are quite
small and need considerable coaxing before they will make a good start. Use plenty of
fertilizer, but rough or undecomposed organic material should not be used, because the
soil needs to be a fine consistency so the small seedlings dont get lost in the undergrowth
before they emerge.
Planting beets
Sow the seeds in the spring as soon as danger of frost has passed. Beet rows
should be planted about 18 inches apart. Sow seeds thickly within each row, and cover
them to a depth of about one inch. Thin seedlings to about four to five inches apart within
rows. You can use the extra plants you thin out as greens while they are young and
tender- both the top and the root. For a succession of young beets during the summer,
plantings should be made every four or five weeks during the spring months. Beets
intended for winter storage should not be sown until late in the summer, and then you
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should harvest and store the plants in the same way as turnips.
BROCCOLI (Brassica oleracea var. italica)
A head of broccoli growing
Broccoli is similar to cauliflower

There is a lot of misunderstanding about the difference between cauliflower and
broccoli. Both belong to the same species of plant and both are grown for their heads,
which are actually flower buds and stalks. However, broccoli usually has a higher amount
of nutrients than cauliflower.
Broccoli likes cool temps

Broccoli plants dont like extremes of hot or cold. That being said, they prefer
cooler weather conditions, and this makes them able to grow over winter in warmer
climates to harvest during winter and spring. Colder climates are better suited for spring
planting and summer harvest. Varieties for overwintering should be advertised to have
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cold tolerance, and varieties for summer harvest should be advertised to have heat
tolerance.
Summer and fall planting for winter and spring broccoli harvest
In warmer climates, you can actually plant seeds in fall, and harvest heads well
into spring, as long as temperatures dont fall too far below freezing. If you choose this
strategy, make sure that during the winter you pay attention to plants that are about to
produce heads. These plants should have the outer leaves turned over the head to protect
it from frost.
Early spring planting for summer broccoli harvest

The varieties grown for summer heads should be advertised to be heat-tolerant.
Otherwise they may not do so well as temperatures rise. You dont have to wait until
after frost to sow broccoli seeds during the spring- they are quite cold-hardy, and can
tolerate temperatures as low as 25 degrees Fahrenheit without much injury to the plant.
Broccoli cultivation
Broccoli plants thrive in a deep, rich soil. Whatever technique you use to fertilize
the soil, make sure that you mix it into the soil very deeply when you cultivate. This will
encourage broccoli roots to go deep, which is what they need to do in order to last a
while.
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BRUSSELS SPROUTS (Brassica oleracea var. gemmifera)
Young growing brussels sprouts
Cultivation and planting brussels sprouts

The soil for brussels sprouts must be rich, and it requires plenty of moisture. Sow
thickly, and then thin plants to about two feet apart as they grow, since they need plenty
of room. Rows can be about 30 inches apart.
In-season care of brussels sprouts

This crop is closely related to cabbage, broccoli, and cauliflower. Instead of a
single head, Brussels sprouts form a large number of small heads in the axils of the
leaves. As the heads begin to crowd, the leaves should be broken from the stem of the
plant to give them more room. Be sure to leave a few leaves at the top of the stem where
the new heads are being formed. Brussels sprouts are more hardy than cabbage, and in
mild climates they may remain in the open ground all winter. Just harvest and enjoy the
heads as often as they appear.
Eating brussels sprouts

The culinary uses of brussels sprouts are similar to cabbage, but they are
considered to have a better flavor.
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CABBAGE (Brassica oleracea var. capitate)
Cabbage plants
Cabbage harvest timing strategies

Cabbage can be grown through winter for early spring harvest in warmer
climates. It can also be planted in early spring through May or June for a same-year
harvest. For early spring cabbage in warm climates, sow the seeds in an outdoor bed and
transplant to the garden before January 1. In colder climates, plant the seeds in a
greenhouse or hothouse during February and transplant the seedlings into the garden as
early as the soil can be worked. Seedlings can be transplanted as soon as they have made
their second leaf. For a late crop in cooler climates, plant the seeds in a bed in the open
ground in May or June and transplant to the garden in July. Cabbages should be set in
rows 30 to 36 inches apart and should grow 14 to 18 inches apart within the row. Early
cabbages require a rich, warm soil in order to mature early. For late cabbages the soil can
be heavier and more retentive of moisture, but not so rich as for the early crop, since the
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heads may burst, or unfold before harvest.
Soil and cultivation for cabbage

Cabbage is a leaf vegetable, and is a variety of the same species as broccoli,
cauliflower, and brussels sprouts, so a lot of the cultivation information will be somewhat
similar. The fact that cabbage grows well in many different soil types shows it is
adaptable to a wide range of conditions. The most important thing for growing cabbage is
an abundant supply of immediately available plant food. If you have not already worked
a large amount of aged manure into your garden soil, be sure to fertilize it heavily with a
general purpose plant food. After planting, frequent cultivation to eliminate weeds and
aerate the soil are very helpful for growing robust cabbage plants.
CANTALOUPE (Cucumis melo var. cantalupo)
Cantaloupe fruit cut open
Soil for cantaloupe

A sandy loam is the best soil for cantaloupes. Claylike soils hold moisture well,
which melons love, but be sure to add some sand to clays that are very heavy so that the
soil does not harden after watering. Both the condition and the available fertility of the
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soil are helpful in quickly bringing cantaloupe to maturity. Aged manure mixed deeply
into the soil is beneficial. Alternatively, a heavy application of slow-release fertilizer is a
close second for providing the high fertility that all melons tend to appreciate.
Cantaloupe loves warmth

The first thing apart from moisture for getting cantaloupe off to a good start is
warm weather. Cantaloupe is originally a tropical melon, so seed cannot germinate when
the ground is cold and freezing. If the days are warm enough in March or April to plant
and germinate the seed, any potential cold nights that follow will offset the advantage of
early planting. One secret in getting early cantaloupes is in growing the crop from start to
finish with a uniform growth that comes from warm temperatures.
Transplanting cantaloupe
One strategy in colder climates for helping cantaloupe get the warmth it loves is
to start the melons in a greenhouse and then transplant outside when it is warmer. The
key to doing this is to make sure that the original roots are not disturbed. Plant seeds in
large peat pots containing rich soil in a greenhouse or hothouse, about three weeks before
transplanting outdoors. Then, when the nights are above 60 degrees Fahrenheit outside,
dig a large hole in the garden, and set the entire peat pot inside without disturbing the soil
inside the pot, and cover with a little garden soil. This same secret can be applied to just
about any heat-loving melon, or heat-loving garden plant for that matter, to promote
vigorous growth in colder areas. You can certainly grow melons outside with nights
cooler than this, but this technique speeds growth and development where it is needed.
Supporting cantaloupe vines

Cantaloupe are grown on vines. You can give them a lot of field space to spread
out on the ground, or you can guide them up a sturdy support to grow them vertically. If
you do choose to grow them vertically, you will save space, but you may also want to
find a way to support the hanging melons if the variety usually grows more than about
one or two pounds. That way, they wont run the risk of breaking the vines.
Watering and mulching cantaloupe

Melons use a lot of water, so make sure to keep the soil is moist. Mulch is very
helpful for preserving moisture, but all you have to do is mulch around where the vines
enter the soil, rather than mulching the whole melon patch if your vines are growing
along the ground.
Eating cantaloupe
Sometimes mold, or harmful bacteria such as Salmonella can grow on cantaloupe
rinds. Commercial growers take care of this problem by bleaching the melon, but this
process can also mask some of the heavenly muskmelon aroma that cantaloupes are
famous for. You shouldnt have any problems with bacteria if you thoroughly wash the
rind with mildly soapy water, followed by an immediate rinse before cutting. Also make
sure you refrigerate the melon after cutting into it, and consume it within three days of
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cutting it open, as this will also help prevent bacteria from becoming a problem.
CARROT (Daucus carota subsp. sativus)
Long carrots like these dont like rocks in the soil
Soil prep for carrots

Carrots prefer a rich loam, and they grow very well on fertile, well-drained soils,
though some varieties will tolerate clay. To loosen and lighten clay soils for carrots, add
sand, and thoroughly mix with the clay until it is a loamy consistency to a depth of about
16 inches. Before planting, you should remove as many rocks as possible from the area
you intend to plant with carrots, because stones can cause the roots to become deformed.
The soil should be high quality to a deep level in order to grow full-length carrots.
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However, shallow, rocky soils can also grow carrots if short, button varieties are selected.
For fertilizer, manure can be used when nothing else is available, but a commercial
fertilizer, rich in phosphorus and potassium, is probably best. Plant rows about 16 inches
apart. Carrots will need a little bit of thinning as they grow, to about 4 inches between
plants within the row.
Carrot color and nutrition

While orange carrots are definitely the most familiar, many other colors exist as
well. White, yellow, red, purple, and even a purple-orange combination are some of the
unique varieties. You can buy the seeds of these fascinating varieties online if you do a
little searching. Purple varieties contain anthocyanin pigments, just like many fruits do.
Of course, the orange color is a result of the beta-carotene form of vitamin A. Carrots are
high in beta-carotene, but very little of it is usually absorbed by the human digestive
system when they are eaten raw. For optimal vitamin A absorption when eating carrots,
make sure your carrots are fully cooked (to break down the crunchy cell walls) and
consumed with a natural source of dietary fat such as butter (since vitamin A is a fat-
soluble nutrient).
CAULIFLOWER (Brassica oleracea var. botrytis)
Cauliflower ready for harvest
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Cauliflower is a picky plant

This is a favorite vegetable when well grown and properly cared for. However, it
is perhaps one of the most picky vegetables that you can grow. This plant requires a very
rich, moist soil, and plenty of sunlight for optimal performance. For early harvest the
plants should be started in a greenhouse or hothouse, and transplanted into the open
ground as soon as the soil is in good working condition. For a later crop, you can start
plants in open ground in May.
Soil prep and cultivation for cauliflower

Soil cultivation and preparation should be similar to that of cabbage. Work should
be started on the ground at least a month before the plants are transplanted into the
garden. The cauliflower is a deep rooted plant, so the soil should be cultivated deeply.
The soil should be carefully prepared by enriching with a liberal application of
commercial slow release fertilizer or completely aged manure. After the fertilizer is
applied it should be thoroughly worked in to a depth of three or four inches. Space rows
about 24 inches apart, and sow seeds into soil that is moist. After seeding, gently water,
and keep the soil moist as much as you can from planting to harvest.
Cauliflower transplanting
Since cauliflower are typically not as cold-hardy as broccoli, some people may
want to buy or grow seedlings from a greenhouse before transplanting into the garden.
This will give the plants a few more weeks of warmer weather towards the beginning of
the season, which will be especially helpful in colder climates. If you are going to
transplant seedlings into your garden, make sure that you do so right before or after a
rain, so that the plants are transferred to a moist soil right away. If there is no rain
forecasted, just water the plants by hand immediately after transplanting. It is also helpful
if you can set the plants outside for a couple hours per day for three or four days before
transplanting, so that they will become acclimated to outside wind and sun. For spacing,
set the plants about two feet apart within rows.
Cauliflower care
Make sure that you keep all weeds from getting a start in your cauliflower bed.
This is very important because weeds can get a quick foothold in rich soil. Mulching will
help control weeds, and also help maintain the soil moisture that cauliflower loves. If the
developing heads are left uncovered they naturally become yellow through the action of
the sun. If you want supermarket quality curd-white cauliflower, you will have to bleach
the heads by covering them with the surrounding leaves so that they sun cannot reach
them. To do this, when heads have just begun to form, gently gather the large leaves on
the stem together at the top and loosely tie their tips together with a piece of cloth or
raffia fiber. Some people have tried breaking down the leaves over the head instead of
tying them together, but this doesnt always seem to work as well as tying them together.
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Of course, some cauliflower varieties are purple or orange, so there should be no need to
cover the heads for these colors.
Harvesting cauliflower
Cauliflower can be harvested before it is mature, but the flavor is not as well
developed as it is when the heads are full grown. For white varieties having leaves cover
the heads, you will need to pay extra attention to know when the head is mature. Examine
the head by separating the leaves on the side. If the head looks somewhat grainy, and if it
is well rounded up in the center so that it is pushing the leaves outward, it is probably
mature. The heads should be cut, preferably, when dry. Cut the head with some stem
attached along with a few leaves, so that it will stay fresh longer, especially if you do not
plan to eat it right away.
CELERIAC (Apium graveolens var. rapaceum)
A Celeriac root
This vegetable, which is also known as turnip-rooted celery, or knob celery, is a specific
variety of the ordinary stalk-celery. It is often grown for its edible root, though sometimes
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the strong-tasting shoots are also eaten. It seems to be the more popular variety of celery
grown in Europe. The roots are white, more or less globular in shape, and they look quite
a bit like turnips. This vegetable deserves to be more widely known, because it is
extremely hardy and easy to grow. It is often used for flavoring soups. Plant it 7 or 8
inches apart and 3 feet between the rows. It will often yield quite abundantly, and it
succeeds best where celery will. (See CELERY for more info on growth and cultivation,
except that celeriac will not be quite as picky as celery.) The edible portion develops into
a bulbous root that weighs 4 to 6 ounces when trimmed, and these bulbs can be stored
almost like potatoes.
CELERY (Apium graveolens)
Celery stalks
Ideal celery growth conditions

Celery, like many other vegetables, is a big fan of high soil fertility. The ideal
climatic conditions for the production of celery are bright sunshine, cool nights, and a
well-distributed rainfall of about 8 inches during the growing period in the field or
garden.
Celery soils
Any fertile, well-drained soil will grow celery, but a rich, sandy loam will give
the best results. Decayed leaf litter and/or aged manure can be added liberally to your soil
before planting. Since celery is originally a marshland plant, it likes high amounts of
organic material in the ground. If nothing but clay soil is available, it can be made to
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produce good celery by a liberal application and integration of well-aged manure.

Unadjusted clay soils have the potential to cause injury to celery by the soil becoming
washed into the hearts of the plants while they are still small.
Fertilization for celery

For home-grown celery there is no better fertilizer than aged manure. If you
decide to use fresh manure, you should cultivate it into the soil the autumn before you
plan to grow celery, so that the manure has enough time to be broken down by soil
bacteria into something the plant can use. However, if the manure is completely aged and
broken down, it may be worked into the ground early in the spring or used as a top-
dressing a short time before planting. You should add about one-half to one pound of
manure per square foot of ground devoted to celery every year. Not everyone has access
to manure, so it may be necessary to depend almost entirely on commercial fertilizers.
Add plenty of slow-release fertilizer if you do go commercial, so that the large amounts
of nutrients are gradually released over time, to avoid burning the roots of your plants.
Adding lime can also improve most soils. When applied to clay soils, lime has a tendency
to lighten them. Furthermore, sandy soils are made to be more retentive of moisture by
adding lime. Some people have added common table salt to their celery patch- because
celery will absorb some of the salt, this is said to improve the flavor a little.
Celery and cultivation

In colder climates it is probably best to cultivate the land for celery in the autumn
and allow the soil to lie exposed to the action of the frost during winter. In warmer areas,
however, you will probably work the ground immediately after harvesting your previous
crop. If that is the case, make sure that you cultivate it thoroughly to break up the soil
very well before growing celery there.
Planting celery
Celery seeds are very small, so as long as you have high quality seed, a small
amount of seed will give a large number of plants. If you are wanting to harvest an early
crop, you will want to start seeds in a greenhouse or hothouse before transplanting
outside, unless you live in a very warm climate. You should also pay attention to days to
maturity from planting, which can be quite different between varieties. If you dont mind
a later crop, you can certainly sow seed directly outdoors into soil with a fine
consistency. Ultimately, your spacing between rows can be from between four to six feet,
and your plant distance within rows can vary from about five to eight inches.
Celery transplanting
Since celery stalks often take quite a long time to mature, most people will
probably want to start their plants in a greenhouse or hothouse before transplanting
outdoors. In fact, you can even transplant it twice- once from a small cell tray into a large
peat pot, and then later in placing the peat pot in your garden ground after cultivation. If
you do decide to transplant once, try to use peat pots from the beginning, so that you
disturb the roots as little as possible when planting. It also helps to plant a few extra pots
as backups to replace any plants that do not survive transplanting. It is better to have
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extra plants than not enough at all!
Watering celery
Celery soil should contain as much moisture as possible without flooding during
active growth. If you directly sow seeds into your garden, be careful to water the soil very
lightly so that the water does not wash away the tiny seeds. Make sure that the soil does
not ever dry out between planting and early plant growth. After the plants are up, try to
water evenly, enough to keep the soil moist, but not so much that there is ever any
standing water. Watering late in the day will reduce losses to evaporation from heat.
Celery requires the most water while making its greatest growth, which usually occurs
late in the summer. As the crop approaches maturity the water should be applied
sparingly, and then it should be completely withheld for a little bit of time before
blanching.
Mulching for celery

In muck soils it is not necessary to mulch the ground around the plants after
transplanting, but some kind of a covering is certainly best for sandy and clay soils,
preferably immediately after transplanting. Celery roots, after being transplanted, run
close to the surface of the ground, and the mulch will help protect them from the heat of
the sun. Obviously, mulching will also help stifle weeds. Apply the mulch before
watering, if possible. If you dont have any traditional mulch, either half-rotted or fully
aged manure can be used as a mulch and further double as a fertilizer, but be sure that
you dont add manure any time very long after planting, so that the manure will not still
be aging around the time of harvest! As the plants are transplanted, cover the soil around
them with your mulch to a depth of 2 inches, bringing the mulching material up close to
the plant, but being careful to allow none to get into the heart.
Blanching helps celery flavor

The purpose of blanching is to produce leafstalks that are crisp and tender, not
very stringy, and without a strong green flavor. Without blanching, celery is stringy and
bitter. There are two groups of varieties relative to blanching: those which must be
blanched by excluding light, and those which are somewhat self-blanching.
How to blanch celery

Blanching is done by the same general method that is used for removing green
color in any plant tissue- removing light and letting the growth proceed in the dark. You
can technically get away with just removing the outer stalks from self-blanching
varieties, but a little blanching will also improve their flavor. Varieties that require full
blanching can take about two or three weeks of light restriction. Different techniques can
be used- one is to wrap newspaper around the petioles (leaf stalks) and tie it off with
twine. Another technique entails stripping away a few of the outer stems and placing
black plastic drainage pipe around the remaining upright stems. Finally, some people will
actually bank up dirt around the plants so that the soil itself blocks light from the leaf
stalks. Obviously, this will be the most labor-intensive, but it is reported to result in good
flavor. Whatever technique you use, be sure to only cover the petioles themselves, and
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not the actual leaves at the end of the leaf stalk. The plants will need to have their leaves
free in order to catch light and continue the growing process.
Celery sanitary conditions and cleaning

It is essential that the celery should be thoroughly washed in pure water before
eating to prevent the transmission of disease germs. This is true for all vegetables you
grow, but celery can sometimes get dirt inside the heart. Apply some extra attention to
washing, and you should be able to prevent any problems. Also, if you do choose to bank
up soil around celery to blanch it, make sure that you triple wash it to make sure that all
traces of dirt are gone before eating.
CHAYOTE (Sechium edule)
Chayote is a unique vegetable that belongs to the gourd and melon family
What is a chayote?
The chayote is a unique vegetable that is somewhat similar the cucumber, but it
grows on a larger and more vigorous vine. Many people cook it in a similar way as they
would summer squash.
________________________________________________________________________
Preparing your garden for growing chayote

The three main requirements of the chayote in the garden are: (1) a somewhat
sheltered location, (2) something to climb on , and (3) no frosts for 120- 150 days. The
vine will still grow if it does not have shelter, but like many climbing plants, the chayote
is susceptible to injury from the wind. Also, unlike many other members of the gourd and
melon family (Cucurbitaceae), it does not seem to like growing along the ground as much
as it likes climbing on a very sturdy support. The plant has a tuberous root that is
consumed like potato in some parts of the world. In warmer climates which only have
light frosts, the root will send up new shoots for a new growing season. In different parts
of the world the chayote has been found to grow on a variety of soils, though it is said to
do best in a loose sandy or loamy soil with plenty of organic matter from aged manure or
decomposed leaves.
Planting and harvesting chayote

Although it has been found possible to grow plants from the seed when planted
alone, it is almost universal to plant the entire fruit. The fruit should be gathered before
fully matured, because of its tendency for the seed to germinate inside the fruit. Like the
summer squash, it is edible at any stage of growth, and like summer squash, it is best
prepared by sauting or steaming. Since it has a very mild taste, it is best mixed with
other vegetables, herbs, or meat to give it flavor.
________________________________________________________________________
CORN, SWEET (Zea mays convar. saccharata var. rugosa)
Sweet corn with the surrounding husk peeled back
Sweet corn is worth the effort!

Sweet corn is one of the most delicious of all garden vegetables, and every garden
that is large enough to grow some should try it. It can be eaten fresh, boiled, grilled, or
roasted. A little bit of planning is necessary to understand the genetics of sweet corn, and
how to properly isolate it from other corn varieties, but it is well worth the extra effort,
many times over!
Sweet corn genetics

The sweetness of sweet corn is due to three genetic mutations that control the
conversion of sugar to starch. Basically, they are genes that reduce or slow the conversion
of simple sugars (like those found in fruits) into complex sugars (like the starch found in
field corn or potatoes) within the corn kernels.
The su varieties of sweet corn

The sugary (su) mutation was the original mutation probably discovered by
Native Americans. Plants with this gene version (allele) have less starch and more sugar
________________________________________________________________________
than common field corn. These varieties are probably the most robust in terms of
tolerating cool soil, but the ears of corn must be eaten raw or cooked immediately after
picking, since the sugars will begin converting into starch the moment they are harvested.
Some varieties with su include Earlivee, Silver Queen, and Painted Hill (an attractive
multicolored variety). Make sure there is a distance of at least 200-300 feet between su
corn and field corn, indian corn, or popcorn, so that the wind does not blow over pollen
from those other varieties onto your sweet corn silk and ruin the sweetness.
The se varieties of sweet corn

The sugar enhanced (se) varieties are sweeter than su varieties, and have
kernels that are more tender. Their sugar also lasts a little longer than the su varieties
after picking, but they do not tolerate cool soil as well as su varieties. If refrigerated
immediately after picking, their sugar will last a couple of days before beginning to be
converted into starch. Some varieties with this allele include Buttergold, Sugar Baby, and
Kandy Korn. As with the su varieties, make sure you plant at least 200-300 feet away
from field corn, indian corn, and popcorn, so that you dont lose the sweetness.
The sh2 varieties of sweet corn

The supersweet varieties, also known as shrunken-2 (sh2), got their name
because the mature dry kernels have so little starch inside that their skin is wrinkled and
shrunken. Sh2 varieties are sweeter than se varieties and much sweeter than su varieties.
Their sweetness also lasts longer than the se and su varieties, and if refrigerated right
after picking, they can be stored for up to a week and a half before eating. However, the
ears will probably taste a little fresher if eaten sooner than this. These varieties are even
more sensitive to cool soils than either of the previous two, however. Early Xtra Sweet,
How Sweet It Is, and Honey N Pearl are three examples of sh2 varieties. You will need
to plant sh2 varieties at least 200-300 feet away from field corn, indian corn, and
popcorn, as well as su and se varieties if you want them to be sweet.
The syn varieties of sweet corn

Synergistic (syn) varieties are combinations of su, se, and/or sh2 on the same
ear of corn. They need to be planted at a distance from starchy, hard-seeded corn varieties
(indian corn, field corn, and popcorn), but they do not need to be isolated from other
sweet corn varieties. Some examples include Applause, Cinderella, and Synergy.
The augmented supersweet varieties of sweet corn

Augmented sh2 varieties are a combination of su and/or se genetics with 100%
sh2 kernels. They are sh2 that have been made even sweeter by augmenting with the
other genetic alleles. These require extra care, as they have problems with cold-hardiness,
but they are very tender and sweet. Make sure that you keep these augmented varieties
away from all starchy and all other sweet corn types for a distance of at least 200-300 feet
to maintain the sweetness. Some examples of augmented supersweet varieties include the
Xtra-Tender series and the Mirai series. Of all the variety types, I would probably
________________________________________________________________________
recommend the supersweet and augmented supersweet varieties.
Soil for sweet corn

The soil should be well-fertilized and well-drained for best results. Add aged
manure and/or compost for adequate organic matter, and also add general purpose slow-
release fertilizer when cultivating. This will ensure there will be plenty of nutrients for
the developing plants. You may want to add some sand to soil with too much clay, so that
you wont have any problems with standing water during growth.
Sweet corn planting

Plant sweet corn when the soil is warm in the spring, and all danger of frost has
passed. See the above variety descriptions for a general idea of how much flexibility you
have for soil cold-tolerance after the frost. For instance, su varieties are slightly more
cold-tolerant than sh2 varieties, but neither should be exposed to frost at all. For a
consistent harvest, make successive plantings every two weeks until July. Alternatively,
the same result can be attained to some extent by a careful selection of early, medium,
and late varieties within the same type of sweetness type. For instance, you could select
and plant different maturities of the se type or the augmented supersweet group, but you
would not want to plant those two groups within 200-300 feet of each other unless you
knew that pollen would be shed within the two groups at different dates. This is because
the pollen from one group has the potential to ruin the sweetness of another. However,
you could mix plantings of se and su, if you kept them separate from starchy corn
varieties. (See variety descriptions above for more information). Plant the rows about 3
feet apart and plant seeds about 9 to 12 inches apart within rows. Cover the seeds about 2
inches deep. Make sure to keep weeds controlled, and remove suckers from around the
base of the stalks.
Watering sweet corn

Corn loves water, so make sure that the soil is always moist. Mulch helps keep
weeds down and conserves soil moisture at the same time, so you might want to consider
mulching your corn.
Harvesting sweet corn

Su varieties will need to be eaten raw or cooked the moment you harvest them so
that the sugar doesnt begin turning into starch, but other groups will give you varying
amounts of time after harvest to enjoy the sweetness. See the genetic variety descriptions
above for more information.
________________________________________________________________________
CUCUMBER (Cucumis sativus)
Soil and fertility for cucumbers

The soil best for growing cucumbers is a light sandy loam. Prepare the soil in the
early spring, by cultivating and richly fertilizing. The soil for cucumbers should be made
very fertile by annually integrating large amounts of manure and/or slow release
fertilizer. If the soil is too clay-like, or if you have issues with standing water, be sure to
also mix in some sand to help with drainage.
Planting cucumbers
Make sure that you wait until frost has passed before planting seeds or plants
outside. Cucumbers prefer not to have their roots disturbed, so if you do transplant into
the field, make sure they are in peat pots, and place the entire pot in your garden.
Cucumbers are sprawling vines, so there are two main ways to grow them: vertically, and
horizontally. If you decide to grow them vertically, you will save space, but you will have
to guide the plants onto the support until their tendrils can get a grip. Make sure you give
the vines a very strong wire frame, so that as the vines become heavy with fruit, the
support will not collapse. If you decide to let the plants run along the ground, you will
need to give the vines about four to six feet of spacing all around so they have plenty of
room to stretch out. One of the advantages of letting cucumbers (and also melons, for that
matter) grow on the ground is that they leaves will often shade the ground and help
prevent weeds from growing in the summertime.
________________________________________________________________________
Planting beans with cucumbers

Early-maturing bush beans are a good companion plant for cucumber because
they fertilize the soil, grow rapidly, and form a partial protection or wind-break for the
young cucumber plants. The quick maturity of the beans allows them to be harvested and
entirely removed from the area before it is required for the cucumbers, if they are planted
early. When arranged in this way, cucumbers are planted in hills 6 feet apart and a row of
beans is placed between two rows of cucumbers.
Cucumber harvesting
Cucumbers intended for pickling should be harvested when they are around two
to five inches in length. Cucumbers grow rapidly, so make sure you pick young fruits
immediately, because they might rapidly grow too large for pickling in just a day or two!
You should probably have regular times to harvest certain areas of the patch and to
continue this routine throughout the bearing season. Also, try not to let any of the fruits
grow to full maturity. The maturing process signals to the plant that their reproductive
mission in life is over. If that happens, they will stop producing heavily, and they may
even completely stop producing. If no fruits are allowed to come to maturity the plants
will remain green and stay in a growth condition longer and produce many more fruits in
the long run. Also, fully ripe cucumbers usually become tough, and the seeds harden
somewhat so that they are not quite as tender and enjoyable as fruits picked before
maturity. Many varieties will show that they are ripening by changing colors- they will
become a much lighter color, or even become orange. Some people report having gas
after consuming the skin and seeds of cucumber, so some varieties have been developed
with thin skin, few seeds, and a sweet flavor. These varieties are aptly named burpless
cucumbers.
Watering cucumbers
Carefully planned watering will help keep your cucumber vines healthy. Watering
in the morning of sunny days will soon dry the moisture from the leaves of the plants.
This can help protect the plants from diseases such as damping-off fungus and mildew.
You should definitely apply a thick mulch around the base of the plants to help prevent
evaporation from the soil.
Cucumber pollination
Cucumbers, like the other members of the gourd and melon family, grow two
different kinds of flowers on widely separated parts of the plant. The male flower (which
does not bear fruit) is the first to appear and usually grows near the base of the plant. The
female blossom with the embryo cucumber beneath it appears later and grows near the
ends of the newly forming shoots. Since these flowers are separate, it is necessary that
pollen be transferred from the male to the female flowers by insects or by hand, unless
the varieties are parthenocarpic. Parthenocarpic varieties dont need pollen, and can set
fruit without pollination. However, if you grow the plants outside, bees will usually
________________________________________________________________________
pollinate the flowers for you, so you shouldnt have to worry about hand pollination or
selecting parthenocarpic varieties unless you are growing cucumbers in a greenhouse.
EGG PLANT (Solanum melongena)
Eggplant fruit ready to harvest
Eggplant is great for cooking

This delicious vegetable is not grown as often as it should be. Eggplant parmesan
is one of the tastiest vegetable dishes I have ever had the privilege of eating! Eggplants
are also great for stuffing and grilling. The fruit is usually mild in flavor, and its cooking
secret is that it absorbs flavors around it very well.
Soil for eggplants

A sandy loam soil is excellent for growing eggplants. This plant is a deep feeder,
so the land should be cultivated as deeply as possible, with aged manure, black compost,
or decomposed leaves. Rows can be spaced about three or four feet apart, and plants can
be set about three feet apart within the row.
Transplanting eggplants
Eggplants are usually best transplanted into a garden via peat pots. Planting the
peat pots will enable the plant to grow without its roots being disturbed. Also, since
eggplants love warm weather, the plants should not be placed outside until all danger of
________________________________________________________________________
frost has completely passed. Transplanting also gives the plants a chance to grow a little
in a greenhouse or hothouse before the garden conditions are completely warm.
Eggplant watering and staking

Soil should definitely be kept moist throughout the growing season, because if it
gets too dry, eggplant fruits will become small and bitter. Mulching helps cut down on
watering, and also helps control weeds. You may need to stake eggplants, especially after
they start producing heavy fruit. You can stake them just like tomatoes, by tying the main
stem to a sturdy stake, and training the plant along the stake as it grows.
Harvesting eggplants
Eggplants should not be allowed to become fully mature before harvest. They
should be gathered right after the fruit stops growing and the skin becomes glossy, so that
the seeds inside remain small and undeveloped. Eggplant will quickly oxidize when
exposed to air after cutting open, so make sure you are ready to cook or marinate them
immediately after cutting, if you want to preserve the color inside.

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Daniels Definitive Guide to Vegetable Gardening, Volume 1 Vegetables A-E

Distribution Rights in Legalese and Plain English

PLAIN ENGLISH DISTRIBUTION RIGHTS

Daniels Definitive Guide to Vegetable

You can do it!

Just dive in!

Man working in his garden

Any amount of ground will work

Its less work than you might think

Home-grown tastes better

Vegetable gardening can save you lots of money

People watering a victory garden

Just grow a garden, even if its not perfect!

HOW TO PICK THE LOCATION FOR YOUR GARDEN

Get started immediately

Rotating crops and locations

Southern vs northern slopes

GETTING YOUR GARDEN READY-CULTIVATION

Make sure it is warm enough

Cultivated garden soil

Cultivating clay soils

When is the soil ready?

GETTING YOUR GARDEN READY-FERTILIZATION

Vegetables LOVE fertility!

Organic fertility solutions

Commercial fertility solutions

Fertilize before cultivating

Smoothing the soil

PLANTING THE GARDEN

Planting tiny seeds

Planting medium to large seeds

Large seeds can be planted in furrows

Multiple plantings in one season

Planning for frost-free days

Seeds should be alive

EARLY GARDEN WORK

Your seeds vs. weeds

Weed out weeds early!

Hoes make weeding easy

have no other choice than to pull them out by hand.

Mulch is fantastic for vegetables

Cucumbers and lettuce in a mulched garden

Fertilize once, maybe twice

Thin out the losers

Crowded seedlings that need to be thinned

Dont wait too long to thin

Transplanting is almost necessary for cold climates

Breaking roots makes them branch

Some roots shouldnt be disturbed

Some roots should be disturbed

out into the surrounding soil once they are transplanted.

ARTICHOKE, GLOBE (Cynara cardunculus var. scolymus)

ARTICHOKE, JERUSALEM (Helianthus tuberosus)

ASPARAGUS (Asparagus officinalis)

Emerging asparagus shoots

Asparagus -a luxurious perennial vegetable

Asparagus seed vs transplanting

Soil for asparagus

Sunlight for asparagus

White vs green asparagus

Asparagus shoots into bushes

BEAN, COMMON (Phaseolus vulgaris)

Botanical illustration of the common bean plant

Bean growth habits

Daniel'sDefinitiveGuideToVegetableGardening Volume1 VegetablesA-E

Daniel'sDefinitiveGuideToVegetableGardening Volume1 VegetablesA-E